Publish Year: - Title: The Enigmatic Gemstone: Opal’s Playful Dance with Light Abstract: This stunning Australian white opal and diamond brooch converts to a pendant. Courtesy of Rodriguez and Sons. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA

The romance of precious opal begins when you catch the first glimpse of its movement with dancing light. Opal’s play-of-color can be compared to a lyrical dance, sometimes expressing itself as a grand jeté of bold, broad flashes of color, other times as smaller, quicksteps of pinpoint flashes.
Often mysterious, opal’s shimmering color can present as a flowing, continuous movement.

Green and blue play-of-color flit playfully in this pair of black Australian opal earrings. Courtesy of Rodriguez and Sons. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA
Opal’s intriguing flashes of spectral colors
Scientists believe most opal deposits formed 15 to 30 million years ago in desert areas rich in silica. Strong seasonal rains drenched the earth and soaked deep into rock, carrying dissolved silica, a compound of silicon and oxygen, with it. When much of the water evaporated during dry periods, deposits of silica solidified and formed in cracks between the layers of underground sedimentary rock, producing opal.

Notice the small flecks of green, blue and orange play-of-color in a pinfire pattern in this opal from Andamooka, South Australia. Courtesy of the Dr. Edward Gübelin Collection. Photo by Orasa Weldon/GIA
The shifting spectral color of precious opal is a result of light that reflects off its closely packed silica spheres. The arrangement and size of the spheres result in the varying patterns and colors of the opal’s play-of-color, including:

Pinfire or pinpoint: small, closely set patches of color
Harlequin or mosaic: broad, angular, closely set patches of color resembling a checkerboard
Flame: sweeping reddish bands or streaks that shoot across the gemstone
Peacock: mainly blue and green flashes of color

This elegant black opal pendant necklace shimmers with intense blue and green play-of-color. Courtesy of Lightning Ridge Collection by John Ford. Photo by Emily Lane/GIA
In addition to the size, shape and arrangement of its silica spheres, opal’s underlying body color contributes to its overall appearance:

Black opal – a dark body color that generally exhibits bold colors of blue, green, red and orange.
White opal – a white to medium gray body color exhibits the blue, green, red and orange hues in a softer tone.
Fire, water and jelly or crystal opals – develop under different conditions and are transparent. They form in red, orange, yellow and brown hues. If they have play-of-color that increases their desirability.

The matrix in boulder opal often adds a beauty of its own. Courtesy of True Blue Opals & Gems. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA
Boulder opal has a thin layer of precious opal that is cut to include matrix, which serves to reinforce the gem. Often cut in one-of-a-kind shapes, it offers designers and consumers an affordable alternative to black opal.
Common opal, also called potch opal, is an opaque gem-quality variety showing no play-of-color and occurs in pink, blue and other colors with high to low saturation and varying patterns.

This 13.60 ct Australian opal from Lightning Ridge is a showstopper. Courtesy of Gerry Manning, Manning International. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA
History of opal
The modern birthstone of October, along with tourmaline, opal was dubbed “queen of gems” in ancient times because of its flashes of reflected light. Humans have been intrigued by gemstones since antiquity and developed a passion for them as they acquired wealth. Mines in the region of Hungary supplied opal to ancient Romans and continued to produce for more than 2,000 years, until 1922.

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Australia’s outback began opal production in the 1890s. Lightning Ridge, Andamooka, Queensland, White Cliff and Coober Pedy are noteworthy Australian localities for black opals. Some opal sources in Australia are thought to have formed about 400 million years ago. For example, the Great Artesian Basin of Australia, once an inland sea, is a well-known region for today’s opal. Opalized fossils from the age of dinosaurs have been uncovered in opal fields. Most of these come from Cretaceous marine and freshwater aquatic reptiles 100 to 120 million years old. Any material, such as shell, bone, and wood that can become fossilized, can also become opalized.

A 6.15 ct black opal and diamond starburst pendant/necklace radiates blue, green, yellow, red and orange play-of-color. Courtesy of Lightning Ridge Collection by John Ford. Photo by Emily Lane/GIA
Queen Victoria began to wear black opals from Lightning Ridge, Australia soon after they were discovered there. Design houses Tiffany, Lalique and Cartier also began the romancing of black opal, featuring them in Art Nouveau jewelry.

If you look closely at this carved Mexican fire opal, you’ll see two interesting egg-like inclusions. Courtesy of Cody Opal. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA
Mexico is also a major source of fire, crystal and water or jelly opals, and Ethiopia is producing precious opal.
Care of Opal
Treat your opal with gentle care. It is a delicate and soft stone (5.5-6.5 rating on the Mohs hardness scale) and because it contains 5-20 percent water, it should not be allowed to dry out too rapidly or it may crack.
If you heed this advice, you will enjoy many happy years with your lively, colorful, precious opal.
Learn more about opal’s history and lore in the Gem Encyclopedia and its significance as one of October’s birthstones. @topic:13


Publish Year: - Title: December Blues: Birthstone Gifts that Will Delight Abstract: The blue and green color zoning in this 30.5 ct bicolor tanzanite is especially clear and easy to see. Courtesy Kobi Sevdermish, Advance Quality, Ltd. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA

If you are looking for a gift for someone special, December’s trio of blue birthstones offers a wide range for every taste, style and personality – even if it’s not their birth month. Let’s suppose, just for fun, that gemstones have personalities. Let’s look at the traits of turquoise, zircon and tanzanite to pair them with different individuals for the perfect gift.
Turquoise: Natural, earthy, traditional
Turquoise’s personality is natural, earthy and traditional. It has been used in jewelry dating back to the earliest recorded history of civilization in many cultures.

Egyptians preferred the greenish-blue turquoise found in the Sinai Peninsula, which is fortunately resistant to fading when exposed to sun or water. Well-preserved bracelets, pectoral ornaments and scarabs featuring turquoise have been discovered from excavations in Ancient Egypt dating prior to 3100 BCE. Archeologists have also found turquoise ceremonial artifacts in the tombs of Mayan elite in Central America.

A stunning 13.48 ct Sleeping Beauty turquoise cabochon is surrounded by diamonds and plique à jour enamel, set in 18K gold. Courtesy of Andrew Sarosi. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA.
Turquoise was introduced to Europe in the 16th century as it made its way on the Silk Road from mines in Persia to the bazaars in Turkey. Although many think turquoise material was named for its color, the robin egg blue material from the historic Khorasan province of Persia derived its name from the French turquois for “Turkish” because the mineral was first brought to Europe through Turkey. Although the original source has been mined out, fine blue turquoise is still described as Persian blue in the trade today.

Native American cultures believe the Earth is alive and that turquoise is a living, healing gemstone. The Sleeping Beauty mine in Arizona is known for turquoise with spider web matrix, which is prominent in Southwest Native American jewelry.

China is the world’s major source of top color sky blue turquoise. Turquoise is a copper phosphate mineral, which accounts for its opaque blue to green colors.  It is found in the Sinai Peninsula, Turkey, China and North America.

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Zircon: Bright, colorful impersonator, sometimes moody
Zircon’s bright personality is a result of its high refractive index, which gives it excellent brilliance, luster and fire. Its characteristics resemble diamond, so it was used in the 19th century as a diamond alternative.

Zircon is colorless when pure. Trace minerals found in the gems produce yellow, orange, blue, red, brown and green colors. Most rough zircon is brown and can be transformed into colorless and blue by heat treatment.

Blue zircon and cultured pearls from Australia combine in this classic pair of convertible earrings. Not in the mood for dangle? The pearls are detachable in this custom design by Ilka Bahn. Courtesy of Orasa Weldon. Photo by Emily Lane/GIA
Zircons are classified as high or low zircons depending on their density, hardness and refractive index. Because of its uranium and thorium content, low (metamict) zircon is modified by internal radiation damage. Over time its density decreases; the crystal structure is compromised taking on a lackluster, moody appearance and the color changes.

Blue zircon was popular in English estate jewelry in the 1880s and it remains the most popular color with consumers. Zircon is believed to provide the wearer with wisdom, honor and riches.
Tanzanite: Popular, modern, intriguing
Tanzanite, a modern gem discovered in the 1960s in the foothills of Africa’s Mt. Kilimanjaro, its only source, has multiple personalities. Because of its pleochroism, cutting direction determines the gem’s overall face-up color. When you look at it from one angle it appears blue, but from a different angle it appears purple. Or, if you look very closely and are lucky you may see a third color – red green, orange or brown. Cutting plays an important role in tanzanite’s color display, so does a prevalent low-heat treatment that modifies brownish zoisite to more desirable violet to blue colors, known as tanzanite.

This tanzanite and diamond ring is courtesy of Michelle Loon, GIA GG. Photo by Kevin Schumacher/GIA.
Fine tanzanite has a richness and depth of color that is often described as “velvety.” It is one of the world’s most popular gemstones, at times rivaling ruby, emerald and sapphire. Mineral collectors vie for beautiful crystal specimens of natural zoisite in blue, purple, green, yellow, and pink hues.

Now that you’ve become acquainted with these December birthstones, you are ready to make an informed birthstone choice for a gift in December – or any time of the year. @topic:2


Publish Year: - Title: Over the Top at BaselWorld 2015 Abstract: The spring BaselWorld fair is full of glitz and glamour that draws 125,000 visitors each year to see the latest in watch design, high jewelry and the finest gemstones. Photo by Russell Shor/GIA

                      The BaselWorld Fair in Switzerland is a trade show unlike any other; Fifth Avenue-sized structures line the aisles, two-story high LED screens tout world-famous luxury brands and, at closing each evening, champagne and hors d’oeuvres help seal the deal between company and client.

BaselWorld, originally conceived as the yearly coming out party for the top Swiss watch brands, has evolved into a showcase for the world’s high-end jewelry brands and the diamond and gem dealers who serve them. One of the reasons for such an all-out presence is that BaselWorld is unique among trade shows because the public can buy a day pass for 60 Swiss francs (US $62) to browse all four event halls and revel in the ultra-luxury atmosphere.

Who attends? More than 125,000 visitors: everyone from families on a costly outing to gaze at the new watch offerings to billionaires on a buying spree.

The tour begins on the second floor of the main hall, appropriately called the Hall of Dreams.

On the street of jewels in this hall Graff, Garrard, Bulgari, Harry Winston, Mikimoto, Faberge, Damiani and Chopard compete for buyers’ and browsers’ attention. Lesser-known brands such as Jacob & Co., De Grisogono, Bayco and Aaron Shum spare no expense to match their glitz.

Extraordinary designs are on display in the Hall of Dreams. Mikimoto, which originated the cultured pearl market more than 100 years ago, offers a pearl-encrusted bodice, left, that is in striking contrast to the kaleidoscopic atmosphere of its surroundings. This $2 million diamond-studded Gibson guitar from Aaron Shum Jewellery, right, won’t make you a rock star, but it will certainly sparkle under stage lights. Photos by Russell Shor/GIA
Jacob & Co., from Geneva, sits at the corner in a Roman Forum-style “building” fashioned in white faux marble. Evening gown-clad models pose in the open foyer to show off the company’s creations: lacey, diamond-accented necklaces and bracelets, along with more traditional large diamond and sapphire pieces. Nearby, Mikimoto counters the models’ glamour with a cultured pearl “bodice” which, in the special lighting, seems to float inside the window, the gems’ iridescence glowing against the black background.

Around the corner, Aaron Shum attracts a crowd with a $2 million diamond and platinum guitar by Gibson, the U.S. instrument manufacturer. Called the Coronet, the guitar features just over 400 carats of small colorless diamonds set in 18K white gold clusters shaped like flower blossoms set close-in so they don’t snag your sleeve when you’re trying to make bar chords.

Golden lights lead buyers past the watches in Graff’s space to the jewel room, which is illuminated by a “diamond bracelet.” Photo by Russell Shor/GIA
If a $2 million guitar isn’t impressive, then Graff’s space, catty-corner across the atrium, certainly is. The two-story structure is covered in gold Art Deco scales, with a window-sized LED panel displaying the company’s watch creations. Inside, a long row of gold-colored ceiling lights, which look like clusters of crystals suspended in a line, lead browsers past the watch cases to the inner sanctum. A swirling light feature that resembles a diamond bracelet marks where the diamond pieces reside. This year’s signature piece, “The Fascination,” a watch that incorporates 152.96 carats of D color diamonds, includes a 38.13 carat pear-shaped diamond that can be worn separately as a ring or clipped to cover the watch dial. For $40 million, time will wait for you.

Heading for the escalator that leads down to the main watch hall, an intense red glow from the Bayco “building” attracts a crowd. The glow comes from a back-lit ring that features a 16 carat Mozambique ruby, surrounded by diamonds.

The watch hall on the ground floor is actually a misnomer because some 1,500 watch brands are scattered throughout the five sections of the fair. This, however, is where the most famous brands congregate: Rolex, Swatch, Omega, Breitling, Corum, Hublot, Tissot and several dozen others. The exhibits are even more extravagant, and much larger, than those on the jewelry floor, though getting close enough view these timepieces is like is like trying to glimpse the Mona Lisa at the Louvre.

The watch hall attracts the majority of the 125,000 visitors to the fair, so it’s often difficult to catch a glimpse of the new styles they roll out each year. Photo by Russell Shor/GIA
The Swiss Watch Federation reports that the soaring Swiss franc has added 20% to the cost of its watches, further threatening export growth that had already slowed as China’s economy softens and middle-eastern buyers pull back.

The crowds here are thick enough to slow the passage to the Hall of Minerals, the area behind the watch pavilion where the diamonds and gemstones are displayed more like a traditional trade show. The exhibits are relatively no-frills – no elaborate exhibits or 20-foot-high LED screens – as opposed to the glitzy world capital main street. But the goods are certainly not no-frills and a million dollars (or francs) will only get you so far.

Near the entrance, Bijan & Co. offers a 200.36-carat cushion cut sapphire set in a necklace with 35 carats of D, E and F color diamonds. “We cut this several months ago,” says Eliot Elihu, president. “We’re debuting it at this show.”

The question: “A million?”
The reply: “Somewhat more.”

This 200.36 carat Sri Lankan sapphire by Bijan & Co., greeted visitors near the entrance to the gemstone hall. Photo by Russell Shor/GIA
Proceeding through the hall, past a vendor displaying another 200-carat Sri Lankan sapphire, there is Taché, the venerable Antwerp diamond company. On display is a simple black presentation box holding a collection of 9 Type IIa (extraordinarily transparent) diamonds of various shapes, ranging in weight from 16 to 41 carats. All of the diamonds are D Flawless., the exceptions being a pair of matched D-E color, Very Very Slightly Included cushion brilliant cuts.

Though the asking price probably matches or surpasses Graff’s “Fascination” watch, Isaac Taché, executive director, won’t provide a number, “except for serious buyers.” He does say the collection took years to put together.

“Matching diamonds like these don’t come along very often,” he says.

Taché collected a crowd at its display with this collection of 9 Type IIa (extraordinarily transparent) diamonds of various shapes, ranging in weight from 16 to 41 carats. All of the diamonds are D Flawless., except a pair of matched D-E color, Very Very Slightly Included cushion cuts. Photo by Russell Shor/GIA
The array of gems at Cody Opal don’t carry seven-figure price tags, but some of the opals on display in the front of the showcase are large enough to make you want to live inside their lush blue-green, play-of-color world.

“We usually do well here,” says Andrew Cody, holding a large black opal with its miniature environment dappled with spots of red. "The red is what they look for, what really sets the premium.”

Move past exhibitor after exhibitor displaying 10 carat-plus fancy yellow diamonds and arrays of large colorless diamonds, until you come to a necklace created from 30 fancy Vivid Pink diamonds and 23 fancy Vivid Blue diamonds, all ranging from 0.75 to 0.90 carats. You have to stop and ask about this one, but the vendor, set in a relatively small enclosure in a row behind the main aisle, wants no pictures taken or publicity using his name.

“Our clients know we have this here,” he says.
The price: “It took us years to collect these stones, so you can understand that it has a price to match,” he explains.

Negotiating all those major diamond and gemstones can work up a thirst. The snack bar in the middle of the hall has some enticing, but small, water bottles on display for 6 Swiss francs each. A sandwich? Think tourmaline price.

In the end, there was not great demand for the high-end treasures at Basel this year. But a tour at the end of the show revealed that many of these one-of-a-kind pieces did find buyers, judging by some of the empty spots in the displays.

Beauty has its price and some are always willing to pay it. @topic:7


Publish Year: - Title: Sri Lanka: Treasure Island Abstract: A gemological tour of Sri Lanka’s gemstones.

                      A wealth of gemstones lies under the soil of Sri Lanka: sapphire, ruby, cat’s-eye chrysoberyl, spinel, garnet, beryl, tourmaline, topaz, quartz, and many others. The Highland Complex, a wide band that runs roughly down the middle of the island, is a rich source of this gem material.

	Sri Lanka: Treasure Island

Gems here are typically mined in two ways:

		Alluvial mining: Gem deposits are typically found in secondary deposits like rivers. When a river transports gems, it also carries a variety of other denser materials that collect as gravel in the riverbeds. A lighter overburden material lies on top of the gemstones, and miners dig below it to reach the gem-bearing gravels.

		Eco-Mining: Of the 6,500 licenses issued for mining in 2013, more than 6,000 were for pit-mining operations. In this type of mining, rocks and minerals are removed from an open pit that is typically 15 to 25 feet deep and six to 14 feet wide. The government favors this approach, as it is considered to be less harmful to the environment, and provides a more stable source of employment. Pits must be refilled and rehabilitated after the mining is completed.

Mined gems are often bought and sold in outdoor street markets that can have thousands of dealers. Gem material is often sent to Colombo, the country’s capital, for cutting and polishing.

Sri Lanka’s traditional cutters are considered some of the finest in the world in understanding sapphire rough. Their technique is well suited to high-end sapphires and other gemstones where placement of color is critical. A modern precision-cutting industry is also growing.

Sri Lanka is now a colored gemstone destination, blending centuries of mining, cutting, and trading experience with modern technology and global business strategy. Favorable import and export regulations have attracted foreign investment and brought rough material from around the world to the island, helping to make it a colored gemstone cutting, treatment, and trading hub. China’s growing appetite for gemstones has also helped the industry.

From mine to market – Sri Lanka is truly a modern success story. @topic:9


Publish Year: - Title: Insights From Inclusions Abstract: View Gallery

	Natural gemstones are typically far more valuable than synthetics, so being able to identify them correctly is a powerful skill. One of the best ways to determine if a gemstone is natural or synthetic is to note the type and variety of its inclusions.

	Certain types of inclusions are found more often in natural gemstones than in their synthetic counterparts. Needles, clouds, fluids, and crystals are examples of inclusions typically found in natural gemstones.

	Intersecting rutile needles (called “silk”) are inclusions commonly found in corundum. Photo by John I. Koivula/GIA

	A common inclusion observed in amethyst is deep red needles of hematite (magnified 10×). Hematite needles are thin, elongated inclusions. They appear only in natural gemstones. Photo by John I. Koivula/GIA

	Synthetic gems generally have inclusions specific to their method of growth. These characteristics include translucent to opaque coloring, coarseness, and a web-like appearance, which are stark contrasts to natural, transparent, partially healed fracture “fingerprint” inclusions. For example, translucent to opaque-white to yellowish granular-looking flux are types of inclusions you would typically find in a flux-grown synthetic stone.

	Hallmark inclusions of a flux-grown Kashan synthetic ruby are translucent to opaque-white primary flux. Photo by Nathan Renfro/GIA

	“By understanding the types of inclusions and their characteristics, you can determine if a gem is natural or synthetic. That helps you understand the stone’s history and value,” says Brenda Harwick, GIA’s manager of on-campus and laboratory gemology instruction in Carlsbad.

	The three-volume Photoatlas of Inclusions in Gemstones, authored by Eduard Josef Gübelin and John Koivula, is widely considered a definitive read on the subject. To learn more about these valuable resources visit store.gia.edu and enter keyword “Koivula.”

	Some GIA students become so curious about the particular types of minerals that make up inclusions that they pay less attention to the general type of inclusion they are examining.

Here’s a helpful study tip: First become adept at identifying the overall types of inclusions, and then pursue your natural curiosity as to their specific make-up. Advanced chemical and structural testing is often required to determine what they are, but rutile and zircon are some common culprits (depending on the species of gemstones).

	Remember, though, it’s the type and number of inclusions that really matter – and not their precise chemical composition. Keep this in mind, and you will become a better gemologist.

	This Montana sapphire contains dark rutile crystals. When the stone is heat-treated, the titanium dissolves into the host sapphire combining with iron to enhance the blue color of the stone. This internal diffusion of blue color is proof of heat treatment in sapphire. Photo by John I. Koivula/GIA

	This is hydrothermal growth in a synthetic aquamarine. This chevron type of growth structure is indicative of the synthetic origin of this aquamarine. Photo by Nathan Renfro/GIA

	Tips for Viewing Inclusions

	By looking at gemstones under a microscope, you’ll see the number and general type of inclusions. Doing this can help you determine if a gem is natural or synthetic; and that information can affect a gemstone’s value.

	Studying gems under a microscope also helps you create your own “visual library” of inclusions, which over time, will become references as you examine new stones.

	Here are a few tips for using a microscope for this purpose.

		Use a variety of lighting environments to examine inclusions, including: brightfield, darkfield, polarized light, and fiber optic illumination. This lets you see how the gemstone reacts to a controlled pathway of light, revealing valuable information about the inclusions. Each type of light may yield new information and help you see something you would otherwise miss if you only used one lighting environment.

		First look through the broadest window into the gem, which is generally the table facet, and then into the gemstone’s pavilion (this often gives you an excellent view of the inclusions).

		Be certain to rock and tilt the gemstone so that you view it from a variety of angles. @topic:3


Publish Year: 1998 Title: Raman Investigations on Two Historical Objects from Basel Cathedral: The Reliquary Cross and Dorothy Monstrance Abstract: Two ecclesiastical objects of the late Gothic period (1350–1520) were investigated to identify the gemstones that adorn them. Both are from the treasury of Basel Cathedral (Basler Münster, Basel, Switzerland). To avoid potential damage, the identifications were conducted using only optical microscopy and Raman spectroscopy. Most of the mounted materials were found to be varieties of quartz, either as polished single pieces or as doublets with evidence of what may once have been dyed cement. Glass of various colors was also identified, as were peridot, sapphire, garnet, spinel, and turquoise. @topic:2


Publish Year: 1987 Title: Gemstone Durability: Design to Display Abstract: Knowledge of the durability of a gemstone is critical to understanding the risks involved in the various setting, repair, and cleaning procedures commonly used by the jeweler. Some gemstones need attention in display because of their reaction to heat and/or light. This article reviews gemstone durability considerations for 31 species and their varieties as they affect design decisions as well as repair, cleaning, and display of the piece. In all cases, the reader is advised to consult an experienced bench jeweler before attempting any potentially damaging procedures. The recommendations in this article are offered from a gemological viewpoint and as guidelines only. @topic:8


Publish Year: 2019 Title: Uvarovite in Prehnite from Pangasinan Province, Philippines Abstract: This new ornamental gem material from the Philippines consists of vibrant green uvarovite garnets in a white prehnite matrix. The polished freeform weighs 4.23 ct. Photo by Robison McMurtry.

Uvarovite, Ca3Cr2(SiO4)3, is the rarest of the commonly encountered garnet species, and the only one that is consistently green. Although seldom faceted due to its tendency to be opaque, drusy coatings of tiny bright green uvarovite crystals on chromite matrix from Russia are used for jewelry. Recently, a new type of rock with lapidary potential was reportedly discovered in the Philippines, consisting of a white prehnite matrix with vibrant green crystals of uvarovite (see above).
This new material was brought to the authors’ attention by Xavier A. Cortez, who operates Crystal Age, a gem shop in Quezon City. While attempting to source jade for his shop in early 2019, Xavier was offered unidentified white stones speckled with bright green crystals from local miners on the island of Luzon. Mr. Cortez was able to track down the source of this material to a rural portion of Pangasinan Province, in the Ilocos region of Luzon. Weathered calc-silicate rocks at this deposit yield small euhedral crystals of opaque bright green garnets as well as compact green masses in white matrix. The measured spot refractive index of 1.63 was consistent with prehnite. The identities of the green uvarovite and the white prehnite matrix were confirmed with Raman spectrometry.
While there is currently very little of this material on the market, it could be used as a jadeite simulant due to its mottled white and green appearance. Aside from its potential as a jadeite simulant, it is an interesting ornamental material that can be appreciated for its own unique beauty and vibrant green color. @topic:2


Publish Year: - Title: Buried Treasure: GIA Team Documents Cheapside Hoard Abstract: This enameled gold hat ornament in the form of a salamander is one of the Cheapside Hoard’s most iconic pieces. The enameling on the front shows an open mouth with tiny black flecks resembling teeth. The pin is decorated with cabochon emeralds from Colombia, and the tail contains table-cut diamonds. Courtesy of the Museum of London; photo by Robert Weldon/GIA.

GIA photographer Robert Weldon and videographer Kevin Schumacher traveled to the Museum of London to learn about the Cheapside Hoard, an extraordinary treasure that had been buried under a London tenement house for centuries.  The duo spent 10 hours interviewing, photographing and filming museum staff about the collection before it went on exhibit in October 2013.

The significance of this find is summed up best by Hazel Forsyth, the Museum of London’s senior curator of medieval and post-medieval collections, who has devoted her life to uncovering the mystery of the Cheapside Hoard:

“This collection is unique in the world. It is the largest hoard of its kind, dating from the very late
16th to the early 17th century. Part of the reason why it’s so important is that jewelry tends to be broken up, refashioned, reworked, and so therefore doesn’t survive. Because this was buried and lay undisturbed for the better part of 300 years, it survived in the condition that it has. And it covers a huge spectrum of jewelry designs and types, but also gem material from many parts of the world, which really underlines London’s role in the international gem and jewelry trade in this period.”

Weldon and Cathy Jonathan, a research librarian for GIA, share the history of the Cheapside Hoard in the Fall 2013 issue of Gems & Gemology. @topic:6


Publish Year: 2014 Title: GIA Museum Exhibits in New York Abstract: “Fantastic Cross,” an 18K gold brooch featuring turquoise, variscite, chrysocolla, cultured pearl, and enamel, is part of the museum display at GIA’s New York laboratory and campus. Photo by Orasa Weldon/GIA, courtesy of the Anthony and Elizabeth Duquette Foundation for the Living Arts.

              GIA’s recently opened laboratory and campus at the International Gem Tower in New York’s Diamond District features a permanent museum exhibit of gems, jewelry, and mineral sculptures. Fourteen display cases highlight nearly 100 items from the GIA collection, ranging from large aquamarine crystals to a diminutive objet d’art golden cactus and a necklace featuring akoya, Tahitian, and South Sea cultured pearls (figure 1). The exhibit showcases the wonder of gems to visitors and students. @topic:6


Publish Year: - Title: Real or Rendered? Abstract: It’s a beautiful tanzanite pendant necklace.

Or is it?

Half of the images in the gallery below are photographs of actual jewelry pieces.

The others are computer renderings created by GIA students.

Jewelry Design & Technology (JDT) students create dozens of jewelry designs by using computer-aided design (CAD) and computer-aid manufacturing (CAM) programs. The technology lets them create a 3-D rendering (image) of their design that is often remarkably realistic.

Each slide in the gallery contains two images – one is a photograph, the other a computer rendering.

These stunning designs all beg the question: Which is real and which is rendered?

View Gallery @topic:6


Publish Year: 2023 Title: GIA Alumni Collective Abstract: Akshay Poddar, Melizza and Jennifer Tanpoco, and Julia Hackman Chafé are some of GIA’s featured graduates on the Alumni Collective website.
Discover the GIA Alumni Collective, a networking and knowledge hub for GIA graduates. The online community at collective.gia.edu is a diverse group who all share a passion for the gem and jewelry industry. Users can access both live and self-paced Continuing Education seminars, join virtual chapters, connect with global alumni, and more. The site also highlights some of the GIA alums who uphold GIA’s highest standards (see above).
Akshay Poddar earned his Graduate Gemologist diploma at GIA’s Mumbai campus. A third-generation diamantaire, Poddar was driven to start his own business, dealing in both wholesale trade and retail. The diamond jewelry designer believes that while nature creates the diamond, his job is to add beauty to it.
Jennifer Tanpoco launched Jaune Pearls in 2002, later enlisting her daughter Melizza as CEO. The Tanpocos, both GIA Pearls Graduates, focus on sustainability and long-term environmental impact in their business, educating clients on how the pearls are sourced.
Julia Hackman Chafé used her marketing background and her Colored Stone Essentials Certificate from GIA to create a strong digital presence after taking over social media for her family’s wholesale colored stone business. Now a successful influencer under the name JewelsWithJules, Chafé shares photos and videos of gems, jewelry, and international travel, providing her followers with a unique look at the colored stone trade.
Visit https://collective.gia.edu/meet-the-collective.html to read stories from these alumni and more. @topic:6


Publish Year: 2000 Title: Lapis Lazuli from the Coquimbo Region, Chile Abstract: Lapis lazuli has been mined from the Coquimbo Region of Chile since 1905. Some of this material approaches the quality of fine lapis lazuli from Afghanistan. The Chilean material is composed of blue lazurite, together with wollastonite, calcite, haüyne, diopside, pyrite, and minor quantities of other minerals. The deposit is located in the Andes Mountains at an elevation of 3,500 m; it is hosted by a contact-metamorphosed limestone that was later metasomatized to introduce sulfur, a necessary component for the formation of lazurite. Two companies are currently mining the deposit, Las Flores de Los Andes S.A. and Compañía Minera LapisChile S.A., and today they produce about 150 tonnes of material annually. Much of the lapis lazuli is processed locally, for use in fine jewelry, ornamental objects, and building materials such as tabletops or tiles. @topic:1


Publish Year: 1989 Title: Blue Pectolite from the Dominican Republic Abstract: Blue pectolite from the Dominican Republic, also known by the trade name Larimar, has recently entered the U.S. market. Large quantities of this attractive ornamental stone have been found in cavities and veins of altered basalt. Most of the gemological properties are consistent with those previously reported for pectolite; the cause of color in this material is believed to be related to the presence of small amounts of Cu2+. The color appears to be stable to light, but does react to irradiation and to the heat of a jeweler's torch. It is easily separated from similar-appearing materials. @topic:1


Publish Year: 1983 Title: Cobalt Glass as a Lapis Lazuli Imitation Abstract: A necklace of round beads offered as "blue quartz from India" was analyzed by gemological and additional advanced techniques. The violet-blue ornamental material, which resembled fine-quality lapis lazuli, turned out to be a nontransparent cobalt glass, unlike any glass observed before as a gem substitute. The characteristic color irregularities of lapis (white in blue) had been imitated by white crystallites of low-cristobalite included in the deep blue glass. @topic:2


Publish Year: 2014 Title: Composite Coral Veneer Glued to Artificial Matrix Abstract: Figure 1. These 14 ornaments, represented as red coral products, consisted of a coral veneer glued to a matrix. The ten bangles (top) weigh 37.34–57.43 g, and the four snuff bottles (bottom) range from 121.95 to 145.07 g. Photo by Haibo Li.

Red coral, one of the most precious organic gems, has become increasingly popular in the Chinese jewelry market. With natural coral resources being depleted, ornaments of large size and high quality are becoming even more valuable. As a result, the market for treated red coral and imitation products is rapidly growing.
Composite red coral normally consists of coral fragments glued together with cement compounds. In 2010, the National Gemstone Testing Center Gem Laboratory in Beijing tested one bangle that was represented as red coral (Summer 2010 GNI, pp. 158–159). Because the client did not allow the lab to take a powder sample, further testing was restricted. There was some concern about whether the bangle had an artificial matrix, but this could not be determined without destructive tests.
Recently, the NGTC received 10 bangles and four snuff bottles (figure 1) presented as red coral. The bangles resembled the one tested in 2010. Each of the 14 pieces was covered with a very thin surface layer of red coral. The composition of the material below this coral veneer was analyzed.
Magnification revealed the boundaries between the coral fragments and the cement compounds, which tended to be recessed (figures 2 and 3). This clearly demonstrated that the veneer was composite red coral. The coral fragments had a vitreous luster and showed wavy growth patterns typical of natural coral. No growth patterns were seen in the cement compounds except for air bubbles.

Figure 2. Left: A close-up of a bangle with coral veneer. Right: The bangle’s inner surface is covered with rectangular coral slices, but gaps filled with cement compounds are still visible. Photos by Haibo Li; magnified 6.5×.

Figure 3 A: Reflected light showed the difference in luster between the cement compounds and the coral fragments; magnified 10×. B: Under transmitted light, air bubbles can be found in the cement compounds; magnified 20×. C: The boundary between the matrix and the composite coral veneer is very clear and sharp; magnified 10×. D: The fluorescence reaction of the same sample under short-wave UV. Photomicrographs by Haibo Li.
Whitish material seen inside the neck of the bottles was identified as an artificial matrix. The composite red coral veneer, which was only about 1–2 mm thick, had been glued to the surface of the whitish matrix. Under a short-wave UV lamp, strong blue-white fluorescence from the cement compounds and the matrix was visible (figure 3).
Micro-infrared spectrometry (with 4.0 cm–1 resolution and 64 scans in the 675–4000 cm–1 range) identified the cement compounds as epoxy resin (figure 4A). Two different kinds of artificial matrix material were detected: ethyl cyanoacrylate (figure 4B) and alkyd synthetic resin mixed with carbonates. The main component of the carbonates was established as calcite by subtracting the spectra (figure 4C). The calcite could have come from the manufacturing process of the composite red coral.

Figure 4. A: The IR spectrum of the cement compound in one of the bangles identified it as epoxy resin. B: The IR spectrum of the artificial matrix material in one of the snuff bottles indicated ethyl cyanoacrylate. C: The artificial matrix material in the other three snuff bottles was identified, by subtracting IR spectra, as alkyd resin mixed with carbonates.
The SG of the synthetic resin was about 1–2 g/cm3, much lower than that of red coral (2.65 g/cm3). Carbonates could have been added to the matrix to make it heavier and approximate the heft of coral. The snuff bottles all had similar size but different weights. The three that contained alkyd resin mixed with calcite, which has a relatively high SG, weighed 140–145 g. The matrix in the fourth snuff bottle was ethyl cyanoacrylate, which has a lower SG than calcite. As a result, it only weighed 121 g.
In today’s market, oversized red coral products are often constructed from an artificial matrix. After the matrix is shaped, a veneer of red coral fragments is glued to its surface. This makes it easier to manufacture larger ornaments while preserving natural coral reefs. Combining magnification and UV fluorescence observation with infrared spectrometry, we can identify composite coral assemblages quickly and effectively. @topic:5


Publish Year: 2017 Title: 75th Swiss Gemmological Society Conference and European Gemmological Symposium Abstract: The 75th Swiss Gemmological Society (SGS) Conference and 6th European Gemmological Conference (EGC) were held together in Zermatt, Switzerland, June 30–July 1, 2017. Set at the Grand Hotel Zermatterhof, the conference featured 24 renowned speakers delivering a diverse, high-quality program.

Following the welcome address from SGS president Hans Pfister, the first presentation was from Klemens Link (Gübelin Gem Lab, Lucerne, Switzerland) on a new system for age determination of emeralds using laser ablation–inductively coupled plasma–mass spectrometry (LA-ICP-MS). This system provides useful geographic origin information for the gemstone’s owner and high-quality data for scientific research. Ulrich Henn (German Gemmological Association, Idar-Oberstein) surveyed gems from central Namibia, starting with the discovery by German tin miners of tourmaline in Usakos in the early twentieth century. Bernhard Berger (Cartier, Paris) gave a 170-year history of Cartier, with special reference to the 1,800 pieces in the Cartier Collection. Alan Hart (Gem-A, London) delivered an illuminating talk on the Koh-i-Noor diamond from the British Crown Jewels, including its original cutting style prior to recutting in 1852.

Martin Rapaport (Rapaport, New York) was in typical energetic form for his keynote lecture on the state of the diamond industry, in which he highlighted the role of the gemologist. He suggested that gemologists create great value for the trade and should charge twice as much for their services, drawing applause. Vincent Pardieu (VP Consulting SPC, Bahrain) presented on gemstones from East Africa. The challenge and opportunity for the future, he said, would be to balance gem discoveries and conservation, especially with new finds in and around Africa’s national parks. Thomas Hainschwang (GGTL Laboratories, Balzers, Liechtenstein) spoke on GGTL’s initiative to characterize treated diamonds. The aim is to create the most complete data set of natural-color versus treated-color diamonds. Alan Hodgkinson (Scottish Gemmological Association, Edinburgh) pondered the underappreciation of zircon, quoting Basil Anderson’s description of them as “the most mysterious of gemstones.” Henry Hänni (GemExpert GmbH, Basel, Switzerland) presented “sannan skarn,” an ornamental gemstone from Pakistan that resembles maw-sit-sit and was introduced at the September 2016 Hong Kong show. Guillaume Chautru (Piaget, Geneva) spoke on the importance of gemological testing from a jewelry and watch manufacturer’s point of view. Michael Krzemnicki (SSEF, Basel) detailed SSEF’s inclusion research and their new laser ablation–inductively coupled plasma–time of flight–mass spectrometry (LA-ICP-TOF-MS) capability. Michael Hügi, scientific committee chairman of SGS, presented the gems of Switzerland, especially the quartz that became works of art in the hands of European lapidaries from the 14th century onward. The guest of honor at the gala dinner, former Swiss president Adolf Ogi, gave an amusing talk on his career in politics.

The next morning, Hanco Zwaan (Netherlands Gemmological Laboratory, Leiden) discussed the characterization and formation of Sri Lankan metamorphic sapphires. Andrey Katrusha (New Diamond Technology, Russia) detailed the impressive results NDT has achieved in only three years of commercially producing large gem-quality synthetic diamonds. Raquel Alonso-Perez (Harvard Museum, Cambridge, Massachusetts) offered insights into the new emerald deposit in eastern Madagascar, based on her fieldwork there in September 2016. Bruce Bridges (Bridges Tsavorite, Kenya) looked back on 50 years of tsavorite with a video from the famous Scorpion mine and a moving tribute to his father, Campbell Bridges. Wuyi Wang (GIA, New York) updated the conference on synthetic gem-quality diamond and its identification, detailing GIA’s research into this area. Daniel Nyfeler (Gübelin Gem Lab, Lucerne) addressed gemstone traceability and GGL’s work to increase transparency in the colored stone supply chain.

Helen Molesworth (Gübelin Academy, Lucerne, Switzerland and Hong Kong) offered a historical perspective on the gem market using record auction prices and comparing values at different periods using a soldier’s annual salary as a benchmark. Emeralds again came under the microscope in Laurent Cartier’s (SSEF, Basel) talk detailing their history from ancient Egypt to modern Ethiopia. We were treated to the photography of Jeff Scovil (Phoenix, Arizona), who showed how he captures minerals, gems, and jewelry. Joseph Taylor (PT Cendana Indopearls, Indonesia) demonstrated how the Balinese philosophy of Tri Hita Karana is applied to his company’s pearl farm in Indonesia. Willy Bieri (GRS, Meggen, Switzerland) spoke on the identification of the new sapphires being mined near Ambatondrazaka, Madagascar, and their differentiation from Kashmir sapphires. Thomas Hainschwang delivered a talk by Franck Notari (GGTL Laboratories, Geneva) on polycrystalline boehmite needles in corundum, and his proposal to rename these “Rose’s channels” in homage to Gustav Rose, a nineteenth-century German mineralogist.

The next morning, following a trip on the famed Gornergrat Railway, a geological master class was held at an elevation of 3,100 meters. Kurt Bucher (University of Freiburg, Germany) detailed the geology of the Zermatt region.

The SGS 2018 Annual Meeting will take place May 7–8 in Lugano, Switzerland. @topic:8


Publish Year: 2019 Title: Accredited Gemologists Association (AGA) Conference Abstract: The AGA conference, held February 6 in Tucson, was attended by 138 participants from 11 countries. The program was diverse and engaging, as evidenced by the audience questions after each presentation. During the break, participants were invited to a hands-on demonstration of traditional gemological and advanced spectroscopy equipment.
The first talk was by Jeffery Bergman of Primagem, who detailed the mine-to-market effort for emeralds from the Shakiso mine in southern Ethiopia. He described some of the material as similar to Muzo’s in color, and some as having a “Paraíba-like glow.” To ensure that the finest material can receive grades of “no clarity enhancement,” mineral oil is never used on the rough. For material that warrants clarity enhancement, only high-grade cedarwood oil is used. A variety of inclusions have been identified, most commonly biotite mica. Other inclusions are growth tubes, blocky two- and three-phase inclusions, horsetails, dendritic magnesium oxide, chromite, and tourmaline. Color zoning in this material can be very strong.
Gina Latendresse of the American Pearl Company gave a fascinating overview of natural pearls from the Western Hemisphere. She described the vast quantities collected by Native Americans from the coast of Venezuela that made their way to Spain in the 1500s, establishing the New World as a source. She then covered the pearl rush between 1850 and 1900 in New Jersey and the Tennessee Valley following the discovery of many impressive specimens. David Howell found the largest American freshwater pearl, 400 grains (100 ct) in size, in New Jersey in 1857. Shortly after, an attractive 93 grain (13 ct) pink pearl was found nearby and sold to Charles Tiffany. Unable to find a U.S. customer, he sold it to Empress Eugénie, resulting in the name “Queen Pearl.” By 1901, the lakes and rivers in the Tennessee Valley had developed pearl fisheries, with production peaking in 1904. Latendresse introduced U.S. natural pearls of many shapes and colors originating from a variety of mollusk species.
Claudio Milisenda presented an overview of tourmaline, including Idar-Oberstein’s efforts to promote the material, localities, and the roles of chemistry and heat treatment in tourmaline color. He walked the audience through the varieties verdalite, indicolite, chrome tourmaline, rubellite, red tourmaline, canary tourmaline, and Paraíba tourmaline. The talk also reviewed various tourmaline treatments and imitations encountered today.
To complement the Gübelin Gem Lab’s launch of “Provenance Proof Blockchain” by Gübelin Labs at Tucson this year, managing director Daniel Nyfeler gave a presentation on the traceability of gemstones. The talk addressed the lack of transparency in the gemstone supply chain and Gübelin’s solutions for this issue. Reasons cited for the lack of transparency included the mines’ remoteness and restricted access, the informal nature of mining, frequent changes of custody, trading based on relationships and trust, a complex and fragmented value chain, and the lack of an established method for traceability. The problems arising from this lack of transparency include unreliable information provided to consumers (gem labs try to fill this gap with provenance determination), the dilemma for ethically conscious consumers—particularly millennials—who are willing to pay for sustainably sourced products, and the lack of independent audits within the industry. Stakeholders who would benefit from greater transparency are governments (for legal and tax purposes), insurance agencies, financial institutions, and consumers.
Two solutions that would work in tandem were presented: a physical tracer embedded in the stone at the mine, and a digital tracker. The physical tracer would involve Gübelin embedding 100 nm silica spheres that hold synthetic DNA programmed to include information such as the mine location. These permanently implanted spheres, which require openings of at least 400 nm, are designed to survive all cutting and cleaning processes. Gübelin would have the ability to later extract the DNA, sequence it, and verify the stone’s origin. This tracer is designed for emerald, and the present design would not survive the more physically punishing corundum processing. The digital tracker, meanwhile, would allow a stone to be tagged all the way back to the mine using blockchain so that each time the stone changed hands, a logbook entry would be made, allowing for permanent storage of encrypted information at each step of the journey from mine to market. The Provenance Proof Blockchain system was released February 8 at the AGTA show. It is free and open to the industry for all gemstone types. The benefits touted for this tracking included new avenues of storytelling for retailers, reduced costs as gem reports would not be needed, and less inflated prices as non-value transactions would be eliminated. And with the ability to audit the supply chain, more aspects of the business could be properly insured. Following the presentation, a spirited question-and-answer session touched on privacy for dealers and consumers, the impact on artisanal miners, the logistics of implanting the encapsulated DNA, and resistance from gem dealers over security concerns.
The last scheduled talk, an overview of the new FTC rules, was canceled due to the recent U.S. government shutdown. A substitute talk graciously given by Jon Phillips (Corona Jewellery Company, Ltd.) covered Canadian diamonds. He noted Canada’s place as the world’s second-leading producer of diamonds and reported on the significant mines, the types of material coming from them, and notable stones found. The Ekati mine has both surface and underground components, and has produced numerous vivid and intense yellows as well as pinks and colorless. Within the mine, 53-million-year-old wood that had been perfectly preserved in the oxygen-free environment was found and brought to the surface. The Renard mine was plagued by the hardness of the kimberlite, making diamond separation extremely difficult. De Beers is showcasing its “Future Smart” mining process with the Chidliak project in Nunavut, Baffin Island, where there are no roads, environmental impact is minimal, and power is supplied by wind energy. Notable stones from the Diavik mine include the 177.71 ct Vega, the 24.82 ct Capella, the Fancy Vivid yellow 30.54 ct Arctic Sun, and a recently discovered 552.74 ct yellow diamond that is likely the largest diamond ever found in North America.
Following the conference, the AGA presented its 20th annual Bonanno Awards. For the first time, three categories were recognized in the same year: education, gemological instrumentation, and gemological research. The award for gemological education went to Donna Hawrelko, a gemology and jewelry educator at Vancouver Community College. Hawrelko’s 27 years of teaching has touched thousands of individuals, and she was key in developing the educational program offered by the Canadian Gemmological Association. The award for gemological instrumentation was given to the cofounders of Magilabs, Alberto Scarani and Mikko Aström. Scarani and Aström have made advanced spectroscopy accessible and affordable to a wide range of gemologists by developing portable tools such as the GemmoRaman system. These allow appraisers and gemologists access to technology that was recently available only through major laboratories. The award for gemological research went to Karl Schmetzer, a renowned researcher and author, for his more than 50 years of gemological and mineralogical work documented in over 400 publications, two books, and 12 new mineral discoveries. Dr. Schmetzer has shared his research with the community and strived to improve professional standards in the industry through work with CIBJO and other organizations. @topic:2


Publish Year: - Title: At the Spring Auctions: A Spending Spree for the Ultra-Wealthy Abstract: The 100.09 ct Vivid yellow from Laurence Graff brought $16.3 million at Sotheby’s Geneva sale in May 2014, the most expensive yellow diamond ever sold at auction. Photo courtesy of Sotheby’s

	The world’s ultra-wealthy open their wallets even wider for the rare and fine in the first half of 2014. A Modigliani portrait sold for a record $18.4 million at Sotheby’s Paris auction in June, and a collection of wines went for $13 million at a Sotheby’s Hong Kong auction in April.

	It’s no surprise that unheard-of auction records for diamonds and colored gems followed suit. Indeed, it’s fitting that the spring 2014 season also broke the record for a jewelry auction’s shortest stay at the top: less than 24 hours.

	Economists note that the world’s wealthy have been putting more and more of their excess funds into such items and it’s buoyed the auctions’ bottom lines. Christie’s overall sales, with art leading the way, increased 27% for the first five months of the year, according to François Curiel, president of Christie’s Asia. Christie’s jewelry sales of $360 million were up 22% from the same period last year, doubling those of five years ago.

	“The jewelry and fine art markets are expanding, attracting more buyers than ever before,” said Curiel. He added that 30% of Christie’s buyers this season were new, coming from all parts of the world.

	Here is a roundup of this past season’s gem and jewelry sales.

Single-Auction Sales
	Sotheby’s Magnificent Jewels sale on May 13 in Geneva realized $141.5 million, the highest ever at a single jewelry auction. That total surpassed the previous mark, Christie’s December 2011 Elizabeth Taylor auction, by more than $25 million. The following day, however, Christie’s regained the title with a Geneva jewelry auction that took in $154.2 million.

Individual Gems
	Not surprisingly, a number of other records fell during these sales. The records came in a variety of colors.

Yellow Diamond: At the Sotheby’s auction, a 100.09 carat (ct) GIA-graded Fancy Vivid yellow from London jeweler Laurence Graff sold for $16.3 million, the highest price ever paid for a yellow diamond. This gem was one of the final stones polished by master diamond cutter Antonio Bianco, who died in 2009.

Colorless Diamond: Moments before the Graff yellow diamond came up, an anonymous bidder paid a record per-carat price of $246,710 for a colorless diamond: a GIA-graded 25.32 ct type IIa D-color internally flawless diamond.

Blue Diamond: At Christie’s May 14 Geneva auction, the top lot was the Winston Blue, a 13.22 ct pear-shaped Fancy Vivid blue flawless diamond that brought the highest per-carat price ever paid for a stone of that color and clarity. The buyer, Harry Winston Corp., paid $23.8 million ($1.8 million per carat). GIA noted it was the largest flawless Fancy Vivid blue diamond it had ever graded.

Green Diamond: At the same Christie’s sale, a 5.5 ct. Fancy Vivid blue-green diamond, the Ocean Dream, achieved a record price of $8.63 million for a diamond of that color.

Natural Pearls: At William Doyle Galleries in New York on April 30, a bidder paid a record $3.3 million for a pair of natural pearl drop earrings thought to have once belonged to Empress Eugénie of France. They are believed to have been part of the French crown jewels sold off in 1887, seventeen years after the fall of Napoleon III. The previous high was for a pair of natural pearls owned by actress Gina Lollobrigida, which sold in May 2013 for $2.4 million.

	The 5.5 ct Ocean Dream, left, a Fancy Vivid blue-green diamond, sold for $1.4 million per carat, a record for a diamond of that color. The 13.22 ct Winston Blue, right, graded by GIA, sold for $1.8 million per carat, the highest price ever paid for a Fancy Vivid blue diamond of flawless clarity. (Photos not to scale.) Photos courtesy of Christie’s

Overall Auction Prices Remain Strong
	Beyond these records, prices were generally strong across the board for colored gems and signed jewelry pieces from the world’s top jewelry houses.

	Christie’s May 28 Hong Kong sale brought in $91 million. Some of the highlights were:

		Jadeite bangle—$5.2 million

		Burmese ruby bracelet—$4.8 million

		A 6.18 ct. Fancy Intense green diamond—$3.6 million ($594,510 per carat)

	The sale also featured a number of large D-color flawless and internally flawless diamonds ranging from $188,000 to $191,000 per carat. Christie’s ended its season with a $27.5 million sale in New York, which included a 5.5 ct. GIA-graded Fancy Vivid pink diamond that accounted for more than one-third of that total—$9.6 million.

	Not everything sold. The 31.34 ct Victory diamond, found in Africa in 1945 and formerly part of the Florence Gould estate, failed to reach its presale estimate of $5–$8 million at Sotheby’s Geneva May 13–14. Likewise, a necklace featuring the 40.05 ct type IIa D-flawless diamond called the “Eye of Golconda” did not reach its estimate of $8.5 million at Christie’s May 28 Hong Kong sale.

	With the uneven economic recovery, these well-publicized auctions have not had the coattail effect seen in the past. The 1987 Jewels of the Duchess of Windsor sale, for example, “got the world emotionally involved in jewelry,” said one jewelry dealer, with an appropriately sharp upturn in demand for gems across the board. This time, sales of more mundane-sized diamonds and jewelry have not seen a surge in prices or sales growth at retail stores around the world.

	Still, these impressive auction prices have increased popular awareness of fancy-color diamonds and added to the mystique and allure of gemstones. That could serve the entire industry well as the world economy achieves a more secure footing.

	This set of natural drop pearls, believed to have once-belonged to Empress Eugénie of France, achieved a record $3.3 million at William Doyle Galleries’ April auction in New York. Photo courtesy of William Doyle Galleries @topic:7


Publish Year: 2014 Title: Eighty Years and Still Going Strong Abstract: It is truly a privilege to be at the helm of Gems & Gemology in the journal’s 80th year, following in the illustrious footsteps of Robert M. Shipley, Richard Liddicoat, and Alice Keller. We start 2014 with renewed anticipation and the strongest intention to build on the many notable innovations that shaped G&G in previous years. This year, we will continue to foster collaboration with researchers working in related fields at other institutions, while actively producing dynamic media content for the GIA website that complements and adds value to our printed journal.

This issue’s lead article focuses on the Chinese gem and jewelry industry. This paper lays the foundation for a series of articles that will explore specific aspects of China’s powerhouse industry, including diamond and colored stone cutting, jewelry manufacture, design, and jewelry retail, as well as uniquely Chinese industry sectors like jade carving. The paper is a partnership between Chinese authors Zhili Qiu, Mu Li, and Qingyuan Yu, and G&G’s own Tao Hsu and Andrew Lucas. As demand for gem and jewelry products surges in China and impacts consumption patterns elsewhere, this is a very timely topic for our journal to investigate. To reach a wider audience, we have provided a Mandarin translation.

Download: Exploring the Chinese Gem and Jewelry Industry - Mandarin translation (PDF)

Our second article is a study of near-colorless synthetic diamonds grown using high-pressure and high-temperature (HPHT) by the AOTC Group of the Netherlands. AOTC is the dominant near-colorless HPHT synthetic diamond producer targeting the gem trade. Lead author Ulrika D’Haenens-Johansson, a research scientist at GIA’s New York laboratory, investigates the gemological and spectroscopic properties of a suite of 52 colorless to light-colored synthetic diamonds. This important paper illustrates the recent strides made in growth technology and quality.

We are also delighted to present G&G’s second field report. Titled “Hunting for ‘Jedi’ Spinels in Mogok,” it details GIA field gemologist Vincent Pardieu’s decade-long quest for bright “neon” red spinel in Myanmar’s fabled “Valley of Rubies.”

In our fourth and final article, we offer a fascinating look at a baroque South Sea cultured pearl from Indonesia that is far larger than the norm for specimens of this type. Ms. Laura Otter and her co-authors use high-resolution computerized microtomography to study the cultured pearl’s interior.

In addition to our regular Lab Notes and Gem News International sections, we bring you in-depth coverage of the February 2014 Tucson gem and mineral shows. And don’t forget to take the G&G Challenge, our annual multiple-choice quiz.

We hope you enjoy the Spring 2014 edition! @topic:8


Publish Year: 2006 Title: Leopard Opal: Play-Of-Color Opal in Vesicular Basalt from Zimapán, Hidalgo State, Mexico Abstract: “Leopard opal” consists of vesicular basalt impregnated with play-of-color opal, and is known only from Zimapán, Hidalgo State, Mexico. The formation of this ornamental stone was made possible by an abundance of silica derived from the chemical breakdown of overlying volcanic ash layers, the permeability of the underlying basalt, and the presence of pores in the basalt of an aesthetically pleasing size. The even distribution and small size of the opal-filled vesicles makes the rock attractive when cut or carved and polished. Veinlets and irregular masses of play-of-color opal showing various bodycolors (red, white, and colorless to pale blue) have also been deposited along joints and fractures within the basalt flow. This opal deposit, which may have been worked in pre-Columbian times, has been explored only by a number of small test pits in recent years, and significant potential remains for its future development. @topic:13


Publish Year: 2015 Title: Serpentine Cabochon with Unusual Olive Green Color Abstract: Figure 1. This 4.05 ct translucent serpentine is unusual for its olive green color and lack of impurities. Photo by Yanjun Song.

Serpentine is a common ornamental stone in the jewelry trade. With colors ranging from yellowish green to deep green, it is commonly used as an imitation of jadeite or nephrite.

Recently, the Gem Testing Laboratory at the Shijiazhuang University of Economics in Hebei, China, examined an olive green cabochon (figure 1) weighing 4.05 ct and measuring approximately 12 × 8 × 6 mm, reportedly purchased from China’s Shandong province. The sample was relatively clean, with a vitreous luster and without any eye-visible inclusions. Without magnification, it resembled high-quality jadeite jade. Standard gemological testing gave a spot refractive index of 1.56 and a hydrostatic specific gravity of approximately 2.56; the sample was inert to both long-wave and short-wave UV. These properties are consistent with serpentine. Four main peaks were observed in the 1100–400 cm–1 region of the infrared reflectance spectrum (figure 2). The two peaks at about 1046 and 482 cm–1 were related to the fundamental Si-O vibrations. The remaining two peaks at 672 and 558 cm–1 are attributed to the OH– and Mg-O vibrations, respectively, confirming the sample’s identity as antigorite, a species in the serpentine family.

Figure 2. The FTIR spectrum of the 4.05 ct olive-green cabochon sample exhibits
characteristic peaks at 1046, 672 and 482 cm–1, all consistent with serpentine.
Energy-dispersive X-ray fluorescence (EDXRF) was used to differentiate the sample from the common “Xiuyu” variety of serpentine, from China’s Liaoning province. Testing revealed that both Cr and Ni were significantly higher in this material than in serpentine from Liaoning, indicating that the specimen may have formed from the serpentinization of mafic-ultramafic rocks. We suspect it may have originated in Taian City in Shandong province, which is famous for “Taishan jade,” a newfound variety of serpentine.

Although serpentine is common in the Chinese market, this was the first time our researchers have encountered a sample of such high quality. @topic:9


Publish Year: 2015 Title: GSA 2015 Annual Meeting Abstract: The Geological Society of America’s annual meeting, held in Baltimore November 1–4, attracted more than 6,000 geoscientists from around the world. Two technical sessions, one oral and one poster, were devoted to the gemological field. The poster session’s flexible presentation time and format, along with the wide range of topics covered (including diamond defect formation and low-pressure, high-temperature [LPHT] treatment of type Ia diamonds), allowed for dynamic discussion between exhibitors and viewers.

George Harlow (American Museum of Natural History, New York) opened the oral session by discussing how gemological studies provide insight into the geological developments of Earth. Wuyi Wang (GIA) presented the discovery and distribution of [Si-V]– defects in HPHT synthetic diamonds. This study challenged the widely accepted theory that [Si-V]– defects only occur in CVD synthetic diamonds, while also showcasing photoluminescence mapping as a powerful research technique.

Laurent E. Cartier (Swiss Gemmological Institute, Basel) applied DNA analysis to the origin determination of organic gems, and this presentation focused on pearls. For the first time, gemologists can conclusively identify the mollusk species of a pearl; Dr. Cartier’s team is exploring similar possibilities with coral and ivory.

Karen Smit (GIA) studied the Re-Os isotope of sulfide inclusions in type Ib diamond from West Africa. The isotopic study was used to explain the assembly of the Gondwana supercontinent. Steven Shirey (Carnegie Institution of Washington) presented his Re-Os geochronology study on a sulfide inclusion within a superdeep diamond from Brazil. The age of this inclusion indicated crystal recycling facilitated by mental convection beneath. Both studies demonstrated the vital role gem materials play in earth science research.

	Gemological studies of famous stones and historical jewelry pieces were also represented. Alan Hart (Natural History Museum, London) studied the creation of the Mogul cut. Using the Koh-i-Noor diamond as a case study, Mr. Hart found that differential hardness was the key factor that brought about the Mogul cut with the primitive cutting tools available in the mid-19th century. Raquel Alonso-Perez (Harvard University) used both spectroscopic and trace-element analysis to study the tourmalines mounted in the Hamlin Necklace, a piece of 19th-century North American jewelry.

	Inclusion study is one of the pillars of modern gemology. John Koivula (GIA) pointed out the possibility of misidentifying synthetic corundum as heat-treated natural material. Experimental studies have demonstrated that heat-fused cracks generated in both pulled and flame-fusion synthetic corundum appear virtually identical to the features associated with so-called flux-healed natural stones. Aaron Palke, also of GIA, hypothesized that unusual glassy melt inclusions found in sapphires from southwestern Montana are crystallized as peritectic minerals formed during high-grade metamorphism, generating silica-rich melt and an alumina-rich restite. Future research on this topic may shed light on the source and transportation of Montana sapphires.

	Phenomenal gems were also explored. Keal Byrne (Smithsonian Institution) investigated the luminescence of “chameleon” diamonds, which show an intriguing color-change response to temperature and/or light. Xiayang Lin (Pennsylvania State University) discovered the microscopic surface feature that causes iridescence in natural quartz crystals from India.

	Researchers also spoke about American gem deposits. Michael Wise (Smithsonian Institution) discussed his work on the hydrothermal emerald and hiddenite mined in the Hiddenite area of North Carolina, while Yury I. Klyukin (Virginia Polytechnic Institute and State University) investigated the fluid evolution of the emerald deposit at the North American Emerald Mine, also in the Hiddenite region. William B. “Skip” Simmons (Maine Mineral and Gem Museum) shared the recent discovery of gem-quality pollucite in Mt. Mica pegmatite.

	The details of all oral presentations from the GSA meeting can be found at https://gsa.confex.
	com/gsa/2015AM/webprogram/Session37638.html. GSA’s 2016 annual meeting will be held September 25–26 in Denver. @topic:8


Publish Year: 2019 Title: Recycled Gemstones from Perpetuum Jewels Abstract: Figure 1. This 2 ct Old European cut diamond has a color grade of N and a clarity grade of VS1. The faceted girdle is not original to the stone; originally this would have had a bruted girdle. Photo by Albert Salvato, courtesy of Perpetuum Jewels.

The Tucson shows were busy for Perpetuum Jewels (New York and San Francisco), a wholesaler specializing in post-consumer recycled diamonds and colored stones in original, antique cuts. They also work with mine-to-market gemstones and estate jewelry. Co-founder Jared Holstein spoke to us about the importance of recycled gems to the industry (figure 1).
Perpetuum works mainly with designers and jewelry stores in the bridal market. The company originally sought to provide alternatives to newly mined material, focusing on stones cut before 1940. They are active on social media and with organizations such as the Women’s Jewelry Association and Ethical Metalsmiths, which drives traffic their way. Holstein and his partner, Jay Moncada, enjoy working with antique stones because each one is different. Rather than achieving a “mathematical ideal of what a stone should look like,” each is cut to different proportions and has a history and character all of its own. Holstein teaches his clients the progression from the first point cut (with eight facets) to today’s multifaceted cuts. While they have a good deal of stock for center stones, they also have antique melee for eternity bands and other pieces.

	Recycled gemstones from Perpetuum Jewels

Their clients seek the smallest possible environmental footprint—as Holstein points out, “Diamonds are the ultimate recyclable material, because they are so hard,” allowing them to be used in jewelry again and again—or choose, for other reasons, to avoid newly mined gems. Many simply love the appearance and mystique of large antique-cut diamonds. The oldest one in stock was a Peruzzi-cut diamond with a double-cut bottom and a triple-cut top; the diamond came from a Victorian ring that it clearly predated. Diamond’s hardness allows a long journey through many cuts and several mountings. Holstein explained, “I like to think that there is probably a modern brilliant, which was a transitional cut, which was an Old European cut, which was an old cushion, which was a Peruzzi, which was a Mazarin, which was a table cut, and which was a point cut.”

Figure 2. This 3.74 ct unheated sapphire was removed from a vintage 1960s platinum pendant. The sapphire was refaceted by Jean-Noel Soni of Top Notch Faceting. Photo by Albert Salvato, courtesy of Perpetuum Jewels.

Figure 3. This 1.28 ct blue-green sapphire is from Montana’s Eldorado Bar deposit. Photo by Kevin Schumacher, courtesy of Perpetuum Jewels.
With the emergence of the “alternative bridal market,” Holstein and Moncada see designers choosing to work with colored stones instead of diamonds. In these cases, they work with a large supply of corundum. While they carry fine classic and antique blue sapphire (figure 2), their clientele gravitates toward softer blues, teals, and greens (figure 3); Montana and Australian bi- and parti-color sapphire are also popular. Holstein would like to see a move toward spinel and garnets by their bridal clients.
Perpetuum is the only company to achieve the SCS Recycled Gemstone Standard, a third-party certification for 100% post-consumer recycled diamonds and gemstones. The SCS annually audits all aspects of a business to ensure it is a responsible source before awarding this certification. A company must prove, for instance, that its environmental footprint decreases every year while recycled inventory increases annually. The latter has become difficult for Perpetuum, as they now carry recently mined Montana and Australian sapphire to meet their clients’ needs. Doing so has lowered their level of recycled gemstones to below 100%.
Holstein said he has never been able to separate the jewelry pieces he loves from the issues endemic to the industry. He has always been aware that the makings are “from someone else’s backyard.” He considers it his responsibility to engage in ethical, environmentally sustainable and responsible practices because they are better for the communities that mine and cut the metals and stones that help him make a living; this is at the core of his business practices. Perpetuum’s booth in Tucson allows him to meet with new and existing clients and educate them on these matters that are close to his heart. @topic:8


Publish Year: 2018 Title: Guizhou Jade from Qinglong, China Abstract: Figure 1. Qinglong, the site of the Guizhou Jade deposit, is located in southwestern China.
A green-blue quartzite produced in the Qinglong antimony deposit, in southwestern Guizhou Province, is called Guizhou Jade in the trade. The source area is located in the middle of the Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau at 25°N latitude, rising 1,600 meters (5,250 ft) above sea level (figure 1). This material was discovered in the 1950s, when the antimony deposit was economically more important to the area. The accompanying blue quartzite was only commercially mined as a decorative material. Later, it was used as a gem material, and it has been popular in Chinese jade markets since about 2011 (figure 2).

Figure 2. This Guizhou Jade ornament, typical in the Chinese jade markets, stands about 11 cm high. Photo by Yushan Dai.
In June 2018, the authors went to the source to inspect the antimony deposit and conduct exploration and collection for Guizhou Jade in the mine. The host rocks are mainly pyroclastic (breccia) rocks, breccia clay rocks of the Dachang layer, and bio-limestones of the Maokou Formation. The Dachang layer is the main ore-bearing layer of the antimony deposit, which is a set of pyroclastic and chemical deposits, and subjected to alteration to siliceous and clay rocks (J.C. Cao, “The dyeing mechanism and cause of Guicui,” Acta Mineralogica Sinica, No. 3, 1983, pp. 183–192).

Figure 3. Left: In the mine, Guizhou Jade is mostly developed in the interlaminar fissures and closely related to stibnite. Right: Guizhou Jade, which develops between layers of stibnite, is massive and can be seen in some small holes in the surface. Photos by Yushan Dai.
The authors observed that in the mine, this material has a close relationship with stibnite. It is mostly developed in the interlayer fissures, fracture zones, and areas where brecciation has taken place. The material occurs as blocks and/or veins (figure 3). In the ores, there are calcite- and gypsum-filled cracks and voids. Green or white clay minerals are often found in the micro-cracks or small holes in the gem material.

Figure 4. The infrared spectrum of a Guizhou Jade sample.
Guizhou Jade is translucent to opaque, with a refractive index of about 1.54 (spot reading), a specific gravity of 2.62, and a Mohs hardness of 6.5–7. According to the infrared spectrum, the main constituent mineral is quartz, and its infrared spectrum matches the α-quartz standard infrared spectrum, including several obvious absorption peaks at 1172, 1124, 1085, 798, 781, 540, and 478 cm–1 (figure 4). Quartzite is generally cryptocrystalline. Its colors range from light green-blue to dark green-blue. The most sought-after color is ocean blue, as shown in figure 2.

Figure 5. The UV-Vis-NIR spectra of both Guizhou Jades show a 415 nm absorption band and a strong absorption band at 590–620 nm.
UV-Vis-NIR absorption spectra (figure 5) of both samples show an obvious 415 nm absorption band and a strong absorption band at 590–620 nm, located in the blue-green range of visible light. The absorption intensity of the light-colored sample is significantly lower than that of the deep-colored sample. The 415 nm absorption band is caused by 4A2g→4T1g transition and 4A2g→4T2g transition of Cr3+. The strong absorption band at 590 to 620 nm is caused by charge transfer between Fe2+→Ti4+ and 4A2g→4T2g transition of Cr3+ (J. Liu, “The color formation of common green quartz jade,” Ming Ri Feng Shang, No. 3, 2017, pp. 368–371).
High-quality Guizhou Jade is rich in color and loved by collectors. It has been widely used in necklaces, bracelets, earrings, and other items. @topic:9


Publish Year: 2016 Title: Rare Emerald from China and Pink Sapphire from Sri Lanka Abstract: Figure 1. This 5.06 ct emerald from China’s Yunnan province is one of the finest from this source. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA, courtesy of 100% Natural Ltd.

	At the AGTA show, David Nassi of 100% Natural Ltd. (New York) showed the authors a 5.06 ct bright yellowish green emerald from China’s southwestern Yunnan province. The stone had some eye-visible inclusions, mainly fissures (figure 1). Other than a few tiny chips along the girdle, the cut gave the emerald a very elegant appearance. Mr. Nassi purchased the stone from a reliable Thai gem dealer who bought it from a Pakistani merchant who obtained it along the China-Pakistan border. Since Mr. Nassi is a cutter who deals with many antique jewelry pieces mounted with stones, he usually recuts stones before selling them. He kept this emerald “as is” due to the superb quality and size for this specific source. The stone was certified by the American Gemological Laboratory as without oil treatment, with China as the country of origin.

	China’s only economically viable emerald deposit is located in Malipo County in Yunnan province. The deposit was first discovered in the early 1990s but has never been extensively prospected or mined. Emerald specimens and crystals are extracted as the byproduct of the tungsten and tin deposit. Geologically, the ore body occurs in a core complex and is related to granitic intrusions in that area. Geochemical studies revealed that the trace element vanadium concentration is about one magnitude higher than that of chromium, indicating that V is the predominant chromophore in Yunnan emerald.

	The size and quality of this emerald are rare for Yunnan. Since the stones contain abundant fissures, most of the production is sold as mineral specimens or ornamental pieces (figure 2). A very small percentage can be faceted for jewelry. As the local government pays more attention to this emerald resource, new development and further exploration are expected.

Figure 2. Due to the fissures in Chinese emerald, stones are usually marketed as mineral specimens. This emerald crystal is still in the matrix. Courtesy of Yunnan Emerald Magazine.

	Mr. Nassi also showed us an intensely saturated 24.69 ct Sri Lankan pink sapphire (figure 3), from a necklace he had obtained from another estate jewelry dealer. Although the necklace itself was unattractive, Mr. Nassi immediately saw potential in the sapphire. He estimated the weight of the mounted stone and made an offer to buy the necklace. The stone, which was abraded with multiple scratches, lost two carats in its recutting but showed a dramatic improvement.

Figure 3. This 24.59 ct Sri Lankan pink sapphire was removed from an estate necklace and recut to bring out its full potential. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA, courtesy of 100% Natural Ltd. @topic:2


Publish Year: 2023 Title: 37th International Gemmological Conference Abstract: Figure 1. Participants at the 37th International Gemmological Conference, held in October 2023 in Tokyo. Photo by Masayuki Itokazu.
The 37th International Gemmological Conference (IGC) was held October 23–27 in Tokyo, with more than 80 delegates, observers, and special guests from 24 countries attending (figure 1). The IGC, which started in 1951 and takes place every two years, brings together international gemologists, scholars, and researchers to present their work on natural and synthetic diamonds, colored gemstones, pearls, gem treatments, geological and geographical study of gem deposits, and more. This year, IGC delegates had the opportunity to meet with researchers from various earth science disciplines as well as Japanese laboratory gemologists and gem traders at specially organized events.
The opening ceremony began with a welcome from the Japan Jewellery Association, the Japan Gem Society, the Gemmological Society of Japan, and the IGC. Six keynote presentations followed. IGC executive secretary Dr. Jayshree Panjikar discussed the past, present, and future of the conference, beginning with its formation, followed by advancements in gemological science and the latest developments in instrumentation. Dr. Panjikar announced the IGC’s goal of recruiting more young gemologists and scientists by its 100th anniversary in 2052, bringing greater knowledge to the general public and consumers. Professor Hisao Kanda (National Institute for Materials Science, Japan) described the activities of Japanese researchers from 1980 to 2000, particularly in the area of diamond synthesis. Dr. Hanco Zwaan (Netherlands Gem Laboratory/Naturalis Biodiversity Center, Leiden) discussed the differences between natural and laboratory-grown diamond in terms of growth history and conditions and properties. Yuichi Nakamura (Mie Prefecture Pearl Promotion Council) reviewed the status quo of the akoya pearl industry and initiatives for sustainable pearl cultivation in Japan. Professor Pornsawat Watanakul (Kasetsart University) emphasized the importance of research for the gem and jewelry industry, noting examples of in-depth research and advanced technology that are yielding applicable knowledge. Dr. Michael Krzemnicki (Swiss Gemmological Institute SSEF) addressed the issue of classifying colored gems into their respective varieties and presented a number of case studies to illustrate the topic from a gemological laboratory perspective.
At the main conference venue, the National Museum of Nature and Science, participants attended oral and poster presentations, along with the IGC exhibition booth and a demonstration booth showcasing recent advances. Many high-quality scientific talks were presented by IGC members, and some of the presenters were elected as new delegates. Abstracts of the 48 presentations covering topics ranging from diamonds and colored stones to technology and techniques can be viewed on the conference website at www.igc-gemmology.org/s/IGC2023_webfinal.pdf.

Figure 2. Left: IGC participants viewed a 102-ton jadeite boulder at the Oyashirazu jade museum in Itoigawa. Right: During a field trip to Ago Bay, participants observed the implanting of a bead nucleus in a Pinctada fucata oyster. Photos by Ahmadjan Abduriyim.
In addition to the academic program, the IGC Japan committee organized pre-conference and post-conference excursions (figure 2). Before the conference, 32 participants visited the jadeite gorge in the Itoigawa region of Niigata Prefecture and learned about its geological setting and formation and observed the jadeite deposit’s location in serpentinite lenses within a high-pressure metamorphosed complex. After the conference, 25 participants visited the akoya cultured pearl farm at Ago Bay, where they witnessed the bead implantation process and pearl harvesting. In addition to these conference excursions, a tour of Mount Fuji and a visit to the jewelry city of Kofu were organized. @topic:8


Publish Year: 2016 Title: Exhibition Review: Spectaculaire Second Empire Abstract: Figure 1. Gold bracelet, enamel, natural pearls and citrine, Mellerio dits Meller, ca. 1870. Mellerio collection, Paris. Photo courtesy of Mellerio dits Meller.

France’s Second Empire lasted less than 20 years, from 1851 to 1870, between the Second and Third Republics. Louis Napoléon Bonaparte, the first president of the French Republic, could not seek another mandate. On December 2, 1851, after a military coup, he dismissed the National Assembly, and a year later he named himself Napoleon III, head of France’s Second Empire.  Paris’ Orsay Museum has developed an exhibition, Spectaculaire Second Empire, showing how crucial these years of social disruption and economic euphoria were for France. Often linked to imperial celebrations, this period is typically described as decadent. But it was a time of crisis, when moral and aesthetic habits changed and an old way of life was faced with major technological change, expanded public infrastructure such as railways and inland waterways, and growing industrial activity. The exhibition displays notable relics to reflect the era, including artwork, furniture, and jewelry (figure 1).
During this period many modest craft workshops became factories for luxury goods, including jewelry and objets d’art, as the French imperial family ordered interior design embellishments to enhance homes. Aristide Boucicaut created the first modern department store, Le Bon Marché, in 1852. Sophisticated women changed their dresses and jewels many times a day to avoid wearing the same outfit twice. The dress ball in the northern town of Compiègne became one of the best places to admire the latest creations from jewelers and dress tailors, marking the beginning of high fashion as we know today.

Today only three of the jewelry houses that thrived during the Second Empire continue to produce fine jewelry. Of these three, the museum has chosen to exhibit the work of Mellerio dits Meller, along with pieces by jeweler Alexandre-Gabriel Lemonnier. Napoleon III appointed both Lemmonier and the House of Mellerio crown jewelers; the emperor had become familiar with their talents after they displayed at the Great Exhibition of 1851 in London (also known as the Crystal Palace Exhibition).

Alexandre-Gabriel Lemonnier (1808–1894) was employed by the Bury jewelry shop before opening his own business. Thanks in part to the sponsorship of then-President Bonaparte, Lemonnier opened a more prominent Parisian workshop on Place Vendôme, first at No. 6 and later at No. 25 (a location that is currently occupied by Bulgari) and had clients such as Queen Isabella II of Spain and the Demidoff family of Russia. Among his creations, an impressive diadem with “La Regente” featuring a 337-grain natural pearl now preserved in a private collection. His company closed after the Franco-Prussian War, and he died in 1884. It is exceptional to see pieces he designed on display, particularly the diadem and crown that both belonged to Napoleon III’s wife, Empress Eugénie (figure 2, left and right).

Figure 2. Left: Crown of Empress Eugenie, by Alexandre-Gabriel Lemmonier, 1855. Leather, diamonds, emeralds, and gold. Gift of Mr. and Mrs. Roberto Polo, 1988, inv. OA 11160 © RMN-Grand Palais, Louvre Museum/Pierre and Maurice Chuzeville. Right: Diadem of Empress Eugenie, by Alexandre-Gabriel Lemmonier, 1853. Silver, gold, diamonds, and natural pearls. Gift of the Friends of the Louvre, 1992, inv. OA 11369 © RMN-Grand Palais, Louvre Museum
The Italian Mellerio family first arrived in France in 1515; in 1613 Queen Marie de Medici granted the jewelers the right to trade without the customary administrative restrictions. Prior to the French Revolution of 1789, Marie Antoinette and her friends became regular customers. In 1815, Mellerio became the first jewelry store on the Rue de La Paix. During the Second Empire, the House of Mellerio displayed their creations in many “Expositions Universelles,” highlighting technical and artistic innovations such as flexible gold wires used to give stones an oscillating movement (patented in 1854) and colorful enamels.

Nature is one of Mellerio’s favorite inspirational sources: roses, oak leaf, olive leaf, chestnuts. One example is a gold and silver rose brooch set with diamonds that Princess Mathilde ordered in 1864. Perhaps one of the most impressive pieces is the lilac brooch (figure 3) first displayed during the 1862 Exposition Universelle. Handmade with enameled gold and diamonds, its realistic appearance cannot leave anyone indifferent to its artistic brilliance.

Figure 3. “Broche fleur de lilas,” Mellerio dits Meller, 1862. Green, pink and violet enameled
gold, and diamonds. Private collection. Photo courtesy of Wartski, © Wartski Ltd., London.
Another innovation was transformable jewelry to be worn for different occasions. Mellerio introduced this technique in 1830, and it has been used by jewelers ever since. Tiaras can be transformed into pendants, bracelets, necklaces, or brooches. The exhibition displays a gold diadem composed of eight brooches set with turquoise and diamonds. Mellerio also created flexible snake bracelets to be worn around the wrist or arm. Princess Mathilde ordered many of these pieces symbolizing life and death, force and purity. The enameled gold bracelets set with diamond, emerald, and ruby (figure 4) also introduce another of Mellerio’s favorite inspirations: archaeological discoveries.

Figure 4. Serpent bracelets, Mellerio dits Meller, ca. 1860. Gold, enamel, diamonds,
rubies and emerald., Mellerio collection, Paris. Courtesy of Mellerio dits Meller.
Along with nature- and archaeology-inspired pieces, the house is also familiar with Gothic revival jewelry. Mellerio family members traveled to Rome several times a year in search of the best craftsmen to create cameos or micro-mosaics. Many patterns between 1850 and 1870 were influenced by Egyptian, Greco-Roman, Byzantine, and Paleo-Christian styles. This scarab pendant/brooch shown in figure 5 is set with Burmese rubies from Mogok and natural abalone pearl. The Gothic revival style, seen throughout the 19th century, was especially linked to romanticism, the Middle Ages, and Renaissance rediscovery. A perfect example is the transformable enameled gold bracelet with natural pearls and citrine seen in figure 1.

Figure 5. Scarab brooch/pendant, Mellerio dits Meller, ca. 1865. Silver, pink gold, abalone pearl, diamonds, and Burmese rubies from Mogok. Private collection. Photo courtesy of Mellerio dits Meller.
The most amazing piece in the exhibition may be a transformable peacock feather brooch (figure 6) crafted by Mellerio master jeweler Henri Foullé. Empress Eugénie commissioned this piece after the original, shown at the 1867 Exposition Universelle, was bought by Duchess Medina Coeli. The emerald—Eugénie’s favorite gemstone—can be removed to become a pendant, and the brooch itself is said to protect its wearer.

Figure 6.“Plume de Paon” silver and gold transformable brooch, Mellerio dits Meller,
1868. Diamonds, rubies, sapphires and emeralds. Mellerio collection, Paris. Courtesy
of Mellerio dits Meller.
Spectaculaire Second Empire at the Orsay Museum runs from September 27, 2016, through January 15, 2017. The recommended admission fee is 12€ for adults, and children under 18 are free; admission is free on the first Sunday of the month. The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday from 9:30 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. and Thursdays from 9:30 a.m. to 9:15 p.m. It is closed on Mondays and on Christmas Day. @topic:6


Publish Year: - Title: The Beauty of Birthstones Connects Us All Abstract: The birthstone for August is peridot.

                      We all have one. What’s yours?

We’re talking birthstones here and GIA is showcasing them in a big way through spring 2013 at the Carlsbad campus. The GIA Museum team decided to focus on birthstones because people connect with them as they search for the gem that represents their birth date.

“Birthstones are a fun, popular and colorful area of gemology and resonate with all audiences regardless of gender, age, nationality or religion,” said Terri Ottaway, curator of the GIA Museum. “The lore, origins, attributes and characteristics associated with various gems are educational and hold universal appeal for all of us.”

“GIA Celebrates Birthstones” contains more than 250 objects from around the world, including gemstones, minerals and jewelry pieces. Each month of the year and its birthstone is represented, along with fun facts about the gems. For example, did you know that garnets can be green, topaz can be blue and sapphires can be pink? Or that ancient people believed wearing amethyst would keep them sober, while emeralds were thought to have healing properties for the eyes?

Here are some more traits associated with modern-day birthstones:

January: garnet/calm
February: amethyst/power
March: aquamarine/unity
April: diamond/endurance
May: emerald/joy
June: pearls/clarity
July: ruby/harmony
August: peridot/purity
September: sapphire/loyalty
October: opal/hope and tourmaline/strength
November: topaz/prosperity and citrine/awareness
December: turquoise/peace and tanzanite/balance

Why do some months have more than one birthstone? Different traditions are often cited, but the most significant reason is that some gemstones are too rare and expensive to be attainable for a majority of people, and others just aren’t that popular. @topic:8


Publish Year: 2013 Title: Ancient Tourmaline and Beryl from Afghanistan Abstract: This 9.52 ct pink tourmaline is part of an extensive private collection of ornaments claimed to be from ancient Afghanistan. Photo by Jaroslav Hyršl.

              A large private collection of beads and carvings from antique excavations, assembled in the 1970s by a collector in Afghanistan, was recently examined. The pieces were claimed to be found near the ancient city of Bactra (modern-day Balkh), 300 km northwest of Kabul near the border with Uzbekistan. Bactra was a center of the Bactrian civilization, which flourished from 2500 to 1500 BC. The collection contains several thousand drilled beads, mostly agate, carnelian, and rare blue chalcedony. The next most abundant materials are turquoise—some as small as 1 mm in diameter—and lapis lazuli. Less common are garnet (two types of almandine), rock crystal, amethyst, serpentinite, and steatite, as well as organic materials identified as amber, pearl, and mother-of-pearl. Other very interesting finds are treated rock crystal and milky quartz, both containing blue glass spots on their surfaces, similar to medieval sapphire imitations (Fall 2001 GNI, pp. 243–245).

The two most interesting pieces, a pink bird (above) and a very pale blue bead (below), were studied in detail. The bird had a light green bottom section, measured 13.9 × 13.6 × 7.6 mm, and weighed 9.52 ct, with a refractive index close to 1.63. It was strongly pleochroic (pink and colorless), and it was uniaxial negative in a conoscope. In both short- and long-wave UV light the center was inert, but a thin triangular zone of light blue fluorescence was visible near the surface. These tests confirmed the stone’s identification as tourmaline. It was originally a “watermelon” tourmaline, pink with a green rim, but only a small part of the green rim had been preserved.

	This aquamarine bead, reported to be from Afghanistan, weighs 20.28 ct and is likely one of the oldest of its kind. Photo by Jaroslav Hyršl.
The pale blue bead was set in a heavily corroded metal, probably bronze. The entire piece measured 20.7 × 12.3 × 6.7 mm and weighed 20.28 ct, with an RI close to 1.59. The stone was weakly pleochroic (very light blue and colorless), inert in UV light, and uniaxial negative in a conoscope. These results indicated a very pale aquamarine. The identification of both beads was confirmed by their Raman patterns, collected by A. Gilg (Technical University of Munich).

Both beads are possibly among the oldest of their kind. Large and historically significant rubellites have been reported from the 14th and 16th centuries, and a single beryl bead from Nubia has been dated back to Predynastic time (before 3200 BC), but few details are known. The first beryl locality of significance was reportedly the Egyptian emerald deposit exploited as early as the Ptolemaic era (after 332 BC).

Both tourmaline and aquamarine are typical pegmatite minerals. Gem-bearing pegmatites have been mined since the 1970s in the Nuristan province of eastern Afghanistan and northern Pakistan—the possible origin of both beads. @topic:2


Publish Year: - Title: Corundum Source Types Abstract: GIA Identification and Origin Reports for ruby and sapphire include an opinion on the geographic origin of the stone, if determinable. The chart below and the downloadable PDF include more information about corundum sources and GIA’s source type classification system, detailing the relationship between source type and geographic origin.

	This information was included with GIA Corundum Reports (now GIA Identification and Origin Reports for ruby and sapphire reports) until March 2013. @topic:2