Publish Year: - Title: Chow Tai Fook Expands Blockchain Initiative with GIA Abstract: Chow Tai Fook plans to expand the offering of blockchain-secured, digital diamond grading reports for its T MARK diamonds to additional stores in Hong Kong and mainland China. The addition of GIA’s secure digital reports documents the diamond journey and grading information in one place.

One year after Chow Tai Fook Jewellery Group and GIA announced a pilot program to give customers who purchase the Chow Tai Fook’s T MARK diamonds blockchain-secured, digital diamond grading reports, the company announced that it will expand the program to additional stores in Hong Kong and mainland China.
“Launching our T MARK diamond brand represented a significant breakthrough as we were the first retailer to share the life journey of a diamond,” said Kent Wong, managing director of Chow Tai Fook Jewellery Group, a Hong Kong-based jewelry retailer that has more than 3,000 outlets globally.
According to Wong, the addition of GIA’s secure digital reports makes the T MARK program truly complete because it documents the diamond journey and grading information in one place.
The pilot program was launched in September 2018 and reached 10 Chow Tai Fook stores in Hong Kong by March 2019. Customers who buy T MARK diamonds can choose to receive a digital GIA grading report through the dedicated T MARK app on their phones instead of the usual printed document. All of the GIA grading report data is secured through blockchain technology using the IBM Blockchain Platform.
“It made perfect sense to add GIA’s secure digital blockchain reports into our T MARK program to add another layer of trust for our customers,” said Chow Tai Fook executive director Bobby Liu.
Chow Tai Fook executives say the blockchain initiative has gone down well with its customers, particularly the younger generation, who are excited about blockchain technology because it aligns with their pursuit of authenticity, higher security and a paperless lifestyle. The company also said customers liked the idea of storing the digital GIA reports in the T MARK app because the diamond grading information is just a few taps away and can be retrieved anytime.
“Ensuring consumers’ trust in their diamond jewelry purchases is fundamental to GIA and Chow Tai Fook,” said Tom Moses, GIA executive vice president and chief laboratory and research officer. “This innovative collaboration enhances that all-important consumer trust and helps meet expectations around transparency, trust and sustainability.”

A GIA blockchain diamond grading report on the T MARK app. The featured icon on the top of this report and in GIA Report Check indicates a blockchain-enabled report number. The blockchain diamond grading report includes the key GIA grading data – Color, Clarity, Cut, Carat Weight, Shape and Cutting Style – and GIA’s Statement of Authenticity.
Secure, Easy-to-Access Info on Diamond’s Journey
Of course, there is also a great deal of curiosity about the T MARK app because many customers are not familiar with the concept of blockchain. According to Chow Tai Fook, a well-prepared sales staff is the key to making the T MARK program work. Their sales staff are well-trained to explain the benefits of this technology:

Greater data security – the grading report is digital and secured in the blockchain database. Importantly, this digital record of the diamond’s grading information is linked to the customer when they purchase a diamond and register on the T MARK app - a first for grading reports.
A more streamlined experience – instead of a separate printed grading report, the digital report is incorporated into the T MARK app, so all of the diamond’s information is available in one place, anytime and anywhere, easily accessible with the tap on the screen. This eliminates the risk of losing, and the inconvenience of handling physical reports.
Enhanced assurance – consumers are receiving the same independent, accurate and unbiased analysis that GIA has been providing since 1931, integrated into the T MARK app, which provides full transparency about their diamond’s journey. Customers know everything about their diamond - its source, its journey and its 4Cs grading information from two trusted sources: Chow Tai Fook and GIA.

Chow Tai Fook sales staff stress to customers that blockchain technology is already used to protect high-value assets such as in fine wines, works of art and other luxury products, and critical data in other industries. Chow Tai Fook and GIA are the first to offer this technology to diamond purchasers. Chow Tai Fook also notes that once a record is added to the blockchain database, it is permanent and cannot be changed, ensuring the security of the data.
Most importantly, though, the retailer tells all of its customers that blockchain technology is simply a tool that helps to enhance what they have already come to expect from Chow Tai Fook and GIA.
“Using blockchain technology to link a customer to their diamond’s grading report and history is an important milestone for the diamond industry,” said Pritesh Patel, GIA senior vice president and chief operating officer. “Together, Chow Tai Fook and GIA brought blockchain security to gem and jewelry consumers.”
Education is Key to Explaining the Benefits of Digital Diamond Information
Chow Tai Fook acknowledges that not every T MARK customer is ready to go without the printed reports. There is a period of transition, and as with any new product or service, its executives said, education is a key factor during this time.
Indeed, just as when companies like Apple or Nike introduced digital receipts and warranties, there were some customers who were early adopters and some who preferred paper. In the initial stages of the project, the company plans to give customers both options.
The company will make a continuous effort to adopt digital reports as the norm, especially after it expands the offering to Chinese consumers in mainland China in the coming months.
As Chow Tai Fook expands beyond its pilot blockchain program, it believes there is ample room for growth, especially as it adds more stores, trains more front-line staff and works with GIA to closely monitor the program. @topic:12


Publish Year: 2022 Title: The Grass Is Always Greener… Abstract: Figure 1. Blade-like green radiation stains. Also indicated is the boundary of the close-up view of the green stains in figure 2. Photomicrograph by Michaela Stephan; field of view 2.9 mm.
The Carlsbad laboratory recently examined a 0.97 ct Fancy grayish green diamond submitted for colored diamond grading service. Microscopic examination revealed a colorless diamond with green radiation stains scattered across the pavilion (figure 1).
These radiation stains were particularly unusual due to their linear appearance and resembled blades of grass in their morphology and color. These stains were prevalent along intentionally preserved rough natural diamond surfaces on the pavilion. Faceted surfaces along the pavilion were polished with particular effort to retain some of the green radiation stains. The resultant internal reflection of green light to the table created a uniform green bodycolor in this rare and beautiful diamond.

Figure 2. Radiation stains on the rough diamond’s surface also penetrate to a polished side (left). Viewed with reflected light, the surface shows acicular indentations coincident with green stains (right). Photomicrographs by Michaela Stephan and Roy Bassoo.
Surface photomicrographs revealed long, linear, and acicular indentations concentrated near the center of the radiation stains (figure 2). Indentations crosscut flat-bottomed trigons, suggesting they post-dated diamond dissolution in the earth’s mantle (e.g., R. Tappert and M. Tappert, Diamonds in Nature: A Guide to Rough Diamonds, Springer, Heidelberg, 2011). The green stains along the polished surface indicate that the radiation stains penetrated some depth into the diamond. These features have been observed previously at GIA (e.g., Spring 2021 G&G Micro-World, pp. 66–67; Spring 2022 G&G Micro-World, pp. 64–65) and may result from acicular to tabular radioactive minerals precipitating directly on the diamond surface in a paleoplacer to recent alluvial environment (e.g., R. Lauf, Mineralogy of Uranium and Thorium, Schiffer Publishing, Ltd., Atglen, Pennsylvania, 2016). Radiation damage created vacancies in the diamond lattice, which absorb red light and reflect green light, resulting in the green color of the radiation stains. Uncharged or neutral vacancies produce a photoluminescence response near the 741 nm zero phonon line called the GR1 defect (e.g., J.E. Shigley and C.M. Breeding, “Optical defects in diamond: A quick reference chart,” Summer 2013 G&G, pp. 107–111). The GR1 defect area from photoluminescence spectra can be measured and mapped to indicate the spatial distribution of this defect coincident with the radiation stains (figure 3).

Figure 3. Left: Map of the integrated area beneath the GR1 defect peak of the radiation stains on the diamond surface, derived from photoluminescence spectroscopy. Right: Reflected light image of the surface showing radiation stains (outlined in red) coincident with acicular indentations. The measurements were taken with a 532 nm laser at 1 mW power, 25 μm confocal spot size, 5 μm step size, and 100 Hz.
It is unusual to see green radiation stains of this shape that correspond with indentations on a diamond surface. These features could be a commonly overlooked characteristic of green diamonds. @topic:10


Publish Year: 2022 Title: Spring 2022 Auction Highlights Abstract: Figure 1. At 228.31 ct, the Rock is the largest white diamond ever sold at auction. Photo courtesy of Christie’s.
The De Beers Cullinan Blue was the early buzz of the spring 2022 auction season, with the 15.10 ct Fancy Vivid blue step-cut diamond far surpassing Sotheby’s presale estimate of $48 million. Bringing $57.5 million, the diamond was the largest of its color to ever appear at auction and also the third most valuable diamond of any color to sell at auction. (To read more about GIA’s examination of the De Beers Cullinan Blue, see Lab Notes in this issue, pp. 216–217.)
The season continued in Geneva, with Christie’s auctioning two diamonds weighing more than 200 ct each at the Magnificent Jewels sale on May 11, beginning with the largest white diamond ever sold at auction. Named the Rock (figure 1), the GIA-graded 228.31 ct, G-color, VS1 pear-shaped diamond sold for $21.9 million, or $96,000 per carat. The previous record holder for the largest white diamond sold at auction weighed 163.41 ct and was sold by Christie’s in 2017.

Figure 2. The 205.07 ct Red Cross diamond set an auction record price for a Fancy Intense yellow diamond at Christie’s Geneva Magnificent Jewels sale. Photo courtesy of Christie’s.
The second diamond, the Red Cross (figure 2), returned to Christie’s for a third time at auction. It was first sold at Christie’s in 1918 to benefit the British Red Cross during World War I. At 205.07 ct, the GIA-graded Fancy Intense yellow cushion cut fetched $14.3 million, or $70,000 per carat, after 11 minutes of competitive bidding, setting an auction record price for a Fancy Intense yellow diamond. A portion of the proceeds benefited the International Committee of the Red Cross.

Figure 3. This necklace featuring 33 jadeite beads was the top lot at Christie’s Magnificent Jewels sale in Hong Kong. Photo courtesy of Christie’s.
A jadeite necklace (figure 3) was the top lot at Christie’s May 25 Hong Kong sale, selling for $8.8 million after 11 minutes of bidding. The stunning piece features 33 perfectly round, exceptionally large jadeite beads ranging from 12.3 to 15.0 mm in diameter, with an 11 ct Burmese ruby clasp surrounded by oval brilliant diamonds.

Figure 4. The 103.49 ct Light of Africa diamond sold for an impressive $195,000 per carat at Christie’s Magnificent Jewels sale in New York. Photo courtesy of Christie’s.
In June, the focus returned to diamonds at Christie’s final Magnificent Jewels auction of the season in New York. The 103.49 ct Light of Africa (figure 4), the fifth most valuable colorless diamond ever offered at Christie’s, surpassed its presale estimate of $18 million, with the winning bid coming in at just over $20 million—an incredible $195,000 per carat. The GIA-graded emerald-cut type IIa diamond was cut and polished from a 299 ct rough stone unearthed from the Cullinan mine. @topic:7


Publish Year: - Title: Zircon History and Lore Abstract: Zircon has a rich tradition as a gemstone and continues to be popular with designers. - Gift of Mary Armatis, Armatis Fine Design

                      Many people have heard of zircon but never seen it. This is mostly because of colorless zircon’s wide use as a diamond simulant in the early 1900s. It was long ago replaced in that role by more convincing look-alikes, but its name still means “imitation” to many people. That’s unfortunate because zircon is a beautiful colored stone with its own fair share of folklore and charm.

In the Middle Ages, this gem was thought to induce sound sleep, drive away evil spirits, and promote riches, honor, and wisdom.

Many scholars think the stone’s name comes from the Arabic word zarkun, meaning “cinnabar” or “vermilion.” Others believe the source is the Persian word zargun, or “gold colored.” Considering zircon’s color range, either derivation seems possible.

Blue zircon was a particular favorite in Victorian times, when fine gems were often featured in English estate jewelry dating from the 1880s. Gemologist George Kunz—Tiffany’s famed gem buyer—was a notable zircon advocate. He once proposed the name “starlite” to promote the gem’s fiery nature. The name never caught on. @topic:8


Publish Year: - Title: Bullish Predictions for 2019 Holiday Sales Despite Concerns, Sotheby’s Hong Kong Auction Sales Abstract: GIA alumna Anna Hu’s necklace design features a 100.02 carat cushion-shaped Fancy Intense yellow diamond showcased in the shape of a Chinese musical instrument – Dunhuang pipa – and embellished with variously shaped and brilliant-cut diamonds mounted in 18K white and yellow gold. The pipa can be detached and worn as a pendant/brooch. It sold for $5,780,056. Photo by Michael Oldford. Courtesy of Sotheby’s

Holiday retail sales in the U.S. will increase by 3.8% to 4.2% over last year, the National Retail Federation (NRF) predicted. Online retail sales will increase about 11% to 14%, the NRF estimates.
The organization acknowledged that American consumers are concerned about political and economic uncertainties and worried that tariffs will bring higher prices – another survey found that new tariffs will cost households $862 this year on average – but noted that they are generally in good financial shape, which should cancel out most concerns.
Specific to jewelry, the Edge Retail Academy, a consulting firm for independent retail jewelers, noted that sales of colored gemstones have been strong all year and that, while unit sales of colored stone jewelry have increased only 2%, dollar volume is up 16% as consumers seek higher-priced pieces. The Edge also noted that diamond jewelry sales were running about 5% ahead of last year.
Another survey from RetailDive, a news service for retail executives, said that tariffs may add as much as 15% to popular gift products, such as smartwatches, TVs, audio gear and, coming this quarter, video game consoles and even smartphones. Like the NRF, the RetailDive survey found that, while they are increasingly anxious about the gyrating stock market, political rhetoric and trade wars, consumers still have the means to keep spending.
The Conference Board Consumer Confidence Survey found similar concerns in reporting that confidence dropped sharply in September.
Not everyone is benefitting from consumers’ spending mood. RetailDive reported that a record 7,300 retail stores have closed in the U.S. this year. Much of this number comes from the decline of large, regional shopping malls that have been losing business for years, which is accelerated by the fact that their traditional “anchor” stores have seen their own sales deteriorate.
After the holiday season, there remains a big question mark. At least one major bank’s forecast sees U.S. retail slowing down.
UBS, a major Swiss investment bank, is predicting a 2% decline in U.S. retail jewelry sales next year, in the wake of a slowing economy and bearish stock market. It believes the stock market will decline an average of 13% next year, putting a brake on consumer sentiment and dampening demand for luxury products, including jewelry.
The bank predicted, however, that Chinese demand would begin to recover because consumers there will have adjusted to the effects of the trade war. A majority of them remain optimistic for the coming year, but report says that consumers will likely opt for pieces with lower price points.
In Hong Kong, however, the ongoing protests caused August retail sales of jewelry and watches to plunge 47% from the same month last year, the government statistics agency reported. Tourism was down 39% and visitors from the mainland were down 41%.

Hu's Ellington earrings feature a conch pearl, suspended from a scroll surround designed as piano keys. They are set with rectangular sapphires and baguette diamonds in 18K white and pink gold. They sold for $278,819. Courtesy of Sotheby's
AUCTIONS
A jewel designed by GIA alumna Anna Hu, on commission from Sotheby’s, drew a winning bid of $5.8 million at the auction house’s Oct. 7 Hong Kong sale. The necklace features a GIA-graded 100 ct Fancy Intense yellow diamond set in the shape of a Dunhuang pipa, a traditional four-stringed Chinese musical instrument that is depicted in an ancient mural in Dunhuang. The piece sold for well above its pre-sale estimate and was the costliest of four items in her Silk Road collection, all of which sold at the auction.

Hu’s stylized cello brooch is set with jadeite cabochons of emerald green color and accented with brilliant-cut diamonds and diamonds of yellow tint, highlighted by a circular-cut pink sapphire, mounted in 18K white and yellow gold. It sold for $278,819. Courtesy of Sotheby's
Hu’s conch pearl, sapphire and diamond pendant earrings, titled “Ellington,” sold for $278,819; her jadeite, diamond and pink sapphire “Cello” brooch brought the same price; a conch pearl, diamond and blue enamel “Blue Magpie” brooch drew a top bid of $254,920; and a ruby and diamond “Appassionata” ring sold for $103,561. Part of the proceeds from the sale of Hu’s designs went to the Silkroad, a charity established by cellist Yo-Yo Ma.
Hu earned her GIA Graduate Gemologist® diploma and a GIA Jewelry Design Certificate in 1997.

Portrait of jewelry designer Anna Hu taken in Paris. Courtesy of Sotheby’s
In addition to sale of the Hu pieces, a buyer paid nearly $20 million for a 10.64 Fancy Vivid purplish-pink diamond. At $1.9 million per-carat, the price was below prices paid for pink diamonds auctioned several years earlier, but still strong.
The auction market remains selective with several major pieces, including an 89.88 ct D fl emerald cut diamond and a 11.88 ct Burmese ruby, failing to attract bids.
DIAMONDS
As expected, De Beers kept its September cycle sales low -- $295 million – which is slightly higher than August, but 39% below the $482 million it allocated the corresponding month last year.
De Beers is permitting clients to refuse up to 50% of their allocations and continues to offer to buy back 30% of the 2 to 10 ct rough diamonds it has sold this year. Such buy-backs are unprecedented for De Beers, but with industry banks no longer funding rough purchases that they deem unprofitable, the company has little choice. Prices of polished diamonds have to rise for the banks to resume lending and the only way that can happen is to reduce supplies in dealers’ hands.
The Financial Times reported that De Beers’ yearly sales are running 27% below last year’s levels. De Beers said its priority is to help the industry recover from this period of soft prices and oversupply that continue to sap profitability and undermine polished prices, which also continue to ebb.
Diwali, the holiday during which the Indian gem and jewelry industry takes a traditional two-week break, begins Oct. 27. Sometimes manufacturers extend the break during periods of slack demand, so the industry will be watching closely to see how many of them delay their reopening and for how long. @topic:7


Publish Year: - Title: US Government to Industry: Know Your Supply Chain; De Beers, Alrosa Cut Rough Sales Abstract: Leading diamond producers have cut rough sales way back as credit tightens and inventories build. Photo courtesy of Rio Tinto

The U.S. State Department told jewelry industry representatives in April to tighten chain of custody reporting on all materials – gemstones, diamonds and metals – used in their products.
Last week, the department came back and told the industry it was not doing a very good job.
According to a JCK report, the industry is still lagging on adopting “Know Your Customer” rules that require businesses to file “Suspicious Activity Reports” on transactions using large amounts of cash or where criminal activity is suspected. State Department officials told attendees that “very few” such reports have been filed and that everyone up and down the supply chain needs to do more.
The State Department said these regulations are necessary to prevent funds from going to “malign” regimes, such as Iran, Venezuela and several African nations.
The industry voiced concerns after the April meeting about a new round of restrictions placed on its supply chain that require documentation of every step of every colored gemstone or diamond in the pipeline.
Attendees agreed last week that cooperation is beneficial for all sides and called for greater due diligence moving forward.
ROUGH DIAMOND SALES
De Beers, Alrosa and other diamond mining companies severely cut rough sales in an effort to reduce inventories in diamond manufacturing centers and to help temper the softening of rough and polished prices. Sales will likely remain low for the rest of the year because there is no sign of a quick resolution to the diamond manufacturers’ credit problems or high inventories.
De Beers and Alrosa said the banks’ cutting credit to diamond manufacturers and the prospects of an increased trade war between the U.S. and China were the main reasons for the difficult rough diamond market today.
De Beers announced its smallest allocation in three years – $250 million – and allowed clients to defer purchases of a wider range of goods. Rough revenues are down nearly 25% for the year compared to last year.
Alrosa reduced its rough sales by more than 50% to $169 million against June 2018 levels. Its sales are down more than one-third for the year. Rough prices have declined about 6% this year, while polished prices for diamonds one carat and under have declined 1.5% to 3.5%, with larger drops coming in the smaller sizes.
In addition, Rio Tinto reported a $5 million loss in its diamond division for the first half of the year, compared to a profit of $55 million for the same period of 2018. While the loss is due in part to the company shifting mining activities to lower ore grades (a means of trimming production in a soft market without disrupting operations), sales of rough diamonds were down 16% for the period. The company will close its largest diamond operation, the Argyle mine in Australia, next year.
Demand for diamonds, while not depressed, remains mired in very slow growth worldwide and is not sufficient to absorb excess inventories. Part of the reason for the slow demand growth is the unsettled political and economic climate around the world. In addition, young people seem less interested in jewelry than their parents. A study of the U.S. market, conducted by Harris Poll for TD Ameritrade, found that Gen Z and millennials place much less value on an engagement ring than their parents – two-thirds believe a ring should cost less than $2,500. @topic:7


Publish Year: - Title: De Beers Ups Supply, FTC Warns About ‘Eco’ Claims Abstract: The principal diamond cut and polished from the 1,109 carat Lesedi La Rona rough diamond weighs 302.37 carats. The polished diamond, named the Graff Lesedi La Rona, is so large that cutters had to adapt equipment to work on the rough. Photo courtesy of Graff

After announcing that it would reduce rough diamond allocations for the near future, De Beers abruptly shifted course. Its April cycle sale, which totaled $575 million, was about 15% higher than the previous cycle in February. At the same time, Russia’s Alrosa announced that its sales were down by 37% during the first quarter compared to last year.
De Beers CEO Bruce Cleaver said diamond demand was “stable moving into the second quarter of 2019.”
Alrosa CEO Sergey Ivanov also acknowledged that demand “was stabilizing following soft demand,” noting that he is “cautiously optimistic” about second quarter sales.
Before De Beers’ April 1-5 sale, the company informed clients it would trim allocations because of the closure of its Victor mine in Canada and reduced production from the Venetia mine in South Africa, which is undergoing a transition from an open pit to an underground operation.
While these changes have affected production, the entire diamond industry is struggling with high inventories of both rough and polished, especially smaller, lower quality goods destined for mass market jewelry. Consumer demand has been insufficient to draw them down. Diamond manufacturers, faced with ever tightening credit, have said they would welcome lower supplies of some goods. The well-publicized bankruptcy in Antwerp of one of the world’s largest diamond companies, with about $2.5 billion yearly revenue, has not helped sentiment.
De Beers is faced with pressures to ramp up sales, however, and is beginning talks with the Botswana government, which owns 15% of De Beers, for a new five-year renewal of the contract that forms the basis of their 50-50 mining and marketing operation, Debswana. Debswana operates, among others, the Jwaneng and Orapa mines, two of De Beers’ largest diamond sources. In past contract talks, Botswana has proved to be a tough negotiator and has won considerable concessions, including the establishment of a substantial local diamond manufacturing base and the move of De Beers’ headquarters to the capital, Gaborone.
De Beers has also been under a great deal of pressure from clients and others to allow identification of diamonds produced at its mines. In the past, it was reluctant because many of its clients also buy from Alrosa, Rio Tinto and other producers and mix all of the rough in their cutting operations. It has done a 180-degree turn, however, and is allowing its clients and their customers to identify specific diamonds as Diamond Trading Co (DTC)-sourced, all the way to the consumer level. De Beers still does not disclose a specific country of origin, arguing that all of its diamonds are produced according to its best-practice principals and sustainable mining efforts. The company still will not allow clients to use the De Beers name, which is reserved for its retail operations, and imposes certain conditions on how the DTC name is to be used.
On March 28, GIA announced the GIA Diamond Origin Report service, which uses scientific evaluation to confirm diamond’s geographic origin. The reports will be available beginning April 30.

LABORATORY-GROWN DIAMONDS

The Federal Trade Commission (FTC) has issued warning letters to eight producers of for failing to conspicuously note that their diamonds were not natural. Lost in the fine print was an additional warning against claiming that such diamonds were more beneficial to the environment – a central part of the competitive strategy of laboratory-grown diamond producers, vis a vis natural stones.
The FTC statement:
“Some companies described their products as ‘eco-friendly,’ ‘eco-conscious,’ ‘sustainable,’ etc. Marketers must have a reasonable basis for any environmental claim they make. Furthermore, according to the FTC’s Green Guides, companies should steer clear of general environmental benefit claims because it’s unlikely advertisers can substantiate all reasonable interpretations of those claims.”
In the five or so years since laboratory-grown diamonds have been widely available, “eco-friendly” and “conflict free” have been major selling points of their producers. This taps in strongly to the millennial audience that these producers see as their target consumers.
JCK reported that the companies notified by the FTC have made changes in their online promotions to make it clearer that their products are man-made.

MEGA-DIAMOND

The cutting of the 1,109 ct Lesedi La Rona diamond is complete, with the signature stone being a 302.37 ct cut-corner square. The rough diamond is the second largest gem quality stone ever found, the largest being the 3106 ct Cullinan found in 1905. The 302.37 ct Graff Lesedi La Rona is the sixth largest polished diamond – and the third largest colorless – in the world behind the 545.67 ct Golden Jubilee yellow diamond; two colorless diamonds from the Cullinan (520 and 317 cts); the 407 ct Fancy Deep brownish yellow Incomparable; and the 312 ct black Spirit of de Grisogono.
London jeweler Laurence Graff, who purchased the rough diamond in 2017 for $53 million, said it took 18 months to cut. Several months ago, Graff revealed 66 smaller satellite diamonds, ranging from under one to 26 cts, made from the stone, while diamond cutters tackled the challenge of getting a signature polished diamond over 300 cts from the remainder. The diamond proved too large for conventional scanners and laser units, forcing the cutting firm to adapt its equipment to accommodate the stone.
Graff did not reveal the total weight of the diamonds polished from the rough crystal, but those who handled the rough described several inclusions and an internal fissure that potentially lowered the yield.
The Lesedi la Rona was found in November, 2015 by Lucara Diamond Co. at its Lerowe Mine in Botswana. Its name translates to “Our Light” from the Tswana language.

This 88.22-carat, D Colour, Flawless, Type IIa, oval brilliant diamond – photographed with a pigeon egg for a size comparison – recently sold for more than $13.7 million at Sotheby’s Hong Kong spring sale. Photo courtesy of Sotheby’s
AUCTIONS

Sotheby’s Hong Kong jewelry auction had mixed results with a number of big-ticket items failing to sell. Of the US $41 million total, some $13 million went for the final lot, an 88 ct D fl, Type II oval cut diamond, graded by GIA, with a final price of $156,150 per carat – a bit lower than average for a very large diamond of that grade. Similar diamonds have sold at auction for between $160,000 and $180,000 per carat in the past.
The buyer was a Japanese executive who named the diamond Manami Star, after his daughter. The auction house noted that the diamond was cut from a 242 ct rough found in De Beers’ Jwaneng Mine, Botswana.
A 13.88 cushion cut Kashmir sapphire sold for $25 million, about 10% above its initial estimate.
About one-third of the lots went unsold, including most of the fancy colored diamonds and several large colorless diamonds of VVS and VS clarity, including a Fancy Vivid blue of 3.32 cts, estimated at up to $7.6 million; a 2.56 ct Fancy Vivid blue estimated at $3.6 million; and a number of ruby pieces, including a ruby and diamond bracelet estimated at $1.2 million. Both were graded by GIA.
In New York on April 16, Christie’s sold a pair of Fancy Vivid blue diamond earrings, 3.06 cts and 2.61 cts respectively, to an undisclosed bidder for $6.7 million, about 10% above its top estimate. While the pair of diamonds achieved a higher-than-expected price, the per carat price of $1.2 million was well below what similarly graded diamonds have sold for in the recent past.
The sale was 88% sold by value, but did not feature potential record-breaking diamonds or colored stones, which reflects some caution in the ultra-high end in today’s auction market. @topic:7


Publish Year: 2017 Title: Letters: Note on CVD Synthetic Overgrowth Abstract: I read with interest the Summer 2017 G&G Lab Note titled “CVD synthetic diamond overgrowth on a natural diamond” (pp. 237–239). The concluding paragraph states, “This synthetic overgrowth on a natural diamond with a Fancy color grade is the first GIA has seen.” However, a Gem News entry published in the Summer 1991 G&G presented color photos of a synthetic bluish gray CVD diamond overgrowth over one rough and two faceted natural near-colorless type Ia diamonds (Koivula and Kammerling, 1991). This Gem News item was more recently reproduced in the G&G In Review: Synthetic Diamonds compilation book, published in 2005.

The treated gems were documented at the time by myself and other GIA researchers. A scientific article (Fritsch and Phelps, 1993) detailed the work first mentioned in the 1991 Gem News item. It already cautioned the jewelry industry about the availability of such a product and its possible misidentification. The highly doped boron film (approximately 220 ppm B, hence the dark color) was about 0.1 microns thick and deposited by the hot filament method. To everyone’s surprise, the crystallographic orientation of the natural type Ia substrate had no noticeable influence on the quality of the type IIb CVD film. The film could be detected by abrasions on facet edges, infrared spectroscopy (absence of the boron acceptor center), and UV-visible spectroscopy (presence of the N3 center). Of course, no detailed low-temperature photoluminescence was done, as this became common practice on diamonds only around 1999, with the onset on HPHT-treated diamonds. Neither is there a clear influence of the type IIb layer on the infrared spectrum, in part due to its thinness and the difference in efficiency with today’s infrared detectors.

The three samples were left with GIA Research. I would encourage the authors of the Lab Note to run a full characterization with more up-to-date methods. It is of interest that the stones were submitted to GIA as client stones and followed the normal procedure for blue diamonds at the time, yet this treatment went undetected.

This work predates by two years Yacobi et al. (1993), which the Summer 2017 Lab Note suggests was the first to report deposition of CVD synthetic diamonds on natural type Ia substrates, although not faceted, so less relevant to gemologists’ concerns. (Yacobi’s article, incidentally, was published in the same issue of Diamond and Related Materials as the Fritsch and Phelps article.) The recent Lab Note also states, “Deposition of a boron-doped CVD synthetic film of <10 microns on a natural gem-quality diamond was reported in 2005,” whereas this had already been published almost 15 years prior, in 1991. Furthermore, in contrast with the 2005 article cited, spectroscopic data was presented in the 1993 article.

Emmanuel Fritsch
University of Nantes, CNRS, Team 6502
Institut des Materiaux Jean Rouxel (IMN), Nantes, France
Reply
We thank Prof. Fritsch for reading our Summer 2017 Lab Note and writing this letter to Gems & Gemology. In it we mentioned that this synthetic overgrowth diamond was the first GIA had seen, and several factors support this statement. It showed sharp boron peaks at 2455 and 2800 cm–1, and nitrogen aggregates and platelet peaks in the 1000–1500 cm–1 region (figure 1). Therefore, we classified it as mixed type Ia and IIb. In their 1993 Diamond and Related Materials article, Fritsch and Phelps coated natural, near-colorless type Ia diamonds by depositing boron-doped CVD film. They extrapolated the boron concentration of their coated diamonds using electrical conductivity rather than calculating it from the IR spectrum, which did not show any boron peaks. According to diamond type classification (Breeding and Shigley, 2009), the IR spectrum indicates a type Ia diamond, not a mixed type. The diamond we reported on in the last issue is the first CVD-coated mixed-type diamond detected at GIA using FTIR.

Figure 1. Spectrum A is the IR spectrum of the Fancy blue CVD-coated diamond from Moe et al. (2017). It is a mixed-type diamond with boron peaks at 2455 and 2800 cm–1, along with nitrogen aggregates and a platelet peak between 1000 and 1500 cm–1. Spectrum B, modified from Fritsch and Phelps (1993), represents a CVD-coated bluish gray diamond. It does not show any boron peaks and therefore must be classified as a type Ia diamond.
CVD-coated diamonds previously reported in G&G were not client diamonds (see Fritsch and Phelps, 1993; Eaton-Magaña, 2014). The CVD layer was deposited on natural diamonds for research purposes. In contrast, our diamond was submitted by a client, suggesting CVD-coated natural diamonds have already reached the market. The color has also been improved. Previous CVD-coated diamonds were dark bluish gray (Koivula and Kammerling, 1991; see figure 2) and an initially gray color that altered to Fancy Dark brownish yellowish gray after nine years of wear (Eaton-Magaña, 2014; figure 2, center), whereas ours was graded as Fancy blue (figure 2, right). This was also the first undisclosed client-submitted CVD-coated diamond with blue color identified by GIA. The lack of disclosure and the Fancy blue color grade have significant consequences for the trade. Consequently, our note was translated to Chinese and Japanese on GIA’s website.

Figure 2. Left: GIA coated three near-colorless natural diamonds with CVD film on pavilion facets in 1991, changing their color to dark bluish gray. Center: In 2005, Dr. Eaton-Magaña coated her own diamond with CVD film, again on the pavilion facets, and achieved a Fancy Dark brownish yellowish gray color. Right: A client submitted a Fancy blue diamond, coated with CVD film on the table facet, for a Colored Diamond Grading report in April 2017. It was the first blue synthetic overgrowth on natural diamond identified by GIA.
The Lab Notes section is intended for new findings at GIA laboratories, especially among client-submitted stones. Unlike research papers, the entries are meant to be short. We try to choose only the most appropriate references. Fritsch and Phelps (1993) described the deposition method of the CVD layer and characterized the CVD-coated diamonds using spectroscopy and gemological methods. That same year, Yacobi et al. (1993) published a paper about growing CVD films on type Ia natural diamonds. They deposited the CVD film on the (001) and (111) planes at various temperatures. They discussed preferential incorporation of defects at different crystallographic planes using cathodoluminescence and Raman spectroscopy. Although Fritsch and Phelps (1993) is an important study, we felt that Yacobi et al. was a more comprehensive reference for our lab note.

Our team respects Prof. Fritsch’s invaluable contributions to gemology, and we thank him for taking time to comment.

Kyaw Soe Moe
GIA, New York @topic:4


Publish Year: - Title: Chipping Away at the 1,109 ct Lesedi La Rona: 60 D Flawless Diamonds Abstract: Left top, the 1,109 ct Lesedi La Rona minus the portion to produce the first polished stones. In all, Graff expects 60-plus D fl diamonds from the rough. The largest portion of the rough is still under study and the size and shape of the signature diamond remains undetermined. Photo courtesy of Graff.

London jeweler Laurence Graff unveiled the first diamonds polished from the 1109 ct Lesedi La Rona, which is expected to yield some 60 stones ranging from under one carat to over 100 cts, according to the company.

Second only to the 3,106 ct Cullinan, the diamond was found in the Kerowe mine, Botswana, in November 2015 and put up for public auction in 2016, where it failed to achieve its reserve price of about $70 million. Graff purchased the diamond for $53 million in September 2017.

Graff’s diamond cutters carefully analyzed the diamond for several months before making the first cut. The company did not detail the exact carat weights of the finished diamonds, but the website noted that “Graff designers have envisaged a collection of striking rings, earrings and pendants that celebrate the extraordinary provenance of the Lesedi La Rona diamonds at their heart.” All will be graded and inscribed with the Lesedi La Rona provenance by GIA.

The largest portion of the rough is still being worked on, though no estimate of how large or how many more diamonds will be made from the remaining portion have been announced.
ARGYLE TENDER
The 2019 Argyle Pink Diamond Tender saw a 2.28 ct Fancy Vivid purplish red achieve the highest price for any diamond in the 34-year history of the company’s colored diamond auctions. The diamond, named the Argyle Muse, was cut from a 7.39 ct piece of rough. The buyer and the price of the diamond were not disclosed. The other highlight of the tender, a 3.14 Fancy Vivid pink, went to Glajz THG of Singapore for an undisclosed price.

All of the 63 diamonds in the tender, which weighed a total of 51 carats, were graded by GIA.
DIAMOND MARKET
The credit squeeze, high operating costs and financial problems caused a significant drop in the number of diamond manufacturing operations worldwide.

Ronnie VanderLinden, president of the International Diamond Manufacturers Association, reported at its semi-annual meeting that the decline was “changing the landscape of diamond manufacturing,” according to press reports.

VanderLinden said the decline has affected most manufacturing centers, including Africa where many operations that had begun to increase employment and skills in source countries have faltered. Many of these operations were part of large Indian firms that have experienced financial difficulties in recent years because of lagging polished prices and severe credit cutbacks. In China, he noted, diamond manufacturing employment is down to about 5,000 from a high of 40,000.

He said the health of the diamond industry depends greatly on the health of diamond manufacturing.
ALROSA
A sharp fall in the value of the Indian rupee coupled with on-going credit shortages caused Alrosa, Russia’s diamond mining and sales operation, to sharply cut its sales of small diamonds for its October allocation. Sales that month were $234 million, a 28% decline from the same period last year.

The company said its production and total yearly rough sales will be down by about 9% to 37 or 38 million carats. Last year it sold 39.6 million carats.
CONSUMERS
Consumer confidence registered a slight increase in October, despite wild fluctuations in the world stock markets, according to the Conference Board monthly survey.

“Consumer confidence increased in October, following a modest gain in September, and remains at levels last seen in the fall of 2000,” said Lynn Franco, senior director of economic indicators at the Conference Board. “Consumers’ assessment of present-day conditions remains quite positive, primarily due to strong employment growth. The Expectations Index posted another gain in October, suggesting that consumers do not foresee the economy losing steam anytime soon. Rather, they expect the strong pace of growth to carry over into early 2019.” @topic:7


Publish Year: - Title: 2018 GIA Symposium: The Future Belongs to Those Who Adapt Abstract: The “Futurescape Forum” closed GIA’s sixth International Gemological Symposium with a lively discussion on the future of the gem and jewelry industry, including challenges and opportunities. From left: David Ager, managing director of executive development, Harvard Business School; Kent Wong, managing director, Chow Tai Fook; Rahul Kadakia, international head of jewelry, Christie’s; Andy Johnson, CEO, Diamond Cellar Holdings; Jason Goldberger, CEO, Blue Nile; Gina Drosos, CEO, Signet Jewelers; and Bruce Cleaver, CEO, De Beers Group. Photo by Denise Conrad/GIA

The future will be robust for businesses and individuals in the diamond and gemstone industry who can adapt quickly to change in both consumer preferences and technology. This was the message from various presenters to the nearly 800 attendees of the sixth GIA Symposium held Oct. 7-9 in Carlsbad, California.

The event featured a gemological research track that brought together scientists and experts from around the world and a business track, conducted by Harvard Business School (HBS) professors, who focused on ways business have responded to disruptive innovations and changing consumer behavior.

Tom Moses, executive vice president and chief lab and research officer at GIA, speaks to attendees at the Richard T. Liddicoat Centennial Gala, which also featured musical performances, hot air balloon rides and networking opportunities. Susan Jacques, CEO and president of GIA, standing left, presided over the event. Photo by Richard Deomampo/GIA
The Symposium’s finale – the “Futurescape Forum” – brought six industry leaders together in a panel discussion moderated by Harvard Business School Managing Director of Executive Development Dr. David Ager: Bruce Cleaver, CEO of the De Beers Group; Gina Drosos, CEO of Signet Jewelers; Jason Goldberger, CEO of Blue Nile; Andy Johnson, CEO of Diamond Cellar Holdings; Rahul Kadakia, international head of jewelry at Christie’s; and Kent Wong, managing director of Chow Tai Fook.

Both the business track and the "Futurescape Forum," which began with an industry forecast via a video from Scott Galloway of the NYU Stern School of Business, centered around several key points:

Technologically driven changes in retailing and trading, and continued consolidation across the value chain, including challenges from giants such as Amazon and an increase in manufacturers selling direct to consumers, bypassing traditional retail channels
Evolving consumer tastes and desires
The need to appeal to a rapidly changing workforce
Disruption caused by laboratory-grown diamonds, both in the marketplace and identification in the labs
Gem sources and sustainable production

Krishna Palepu, professor of business administration at the Harvard Business School, spoke about customer centricity using a case study on Amazon. Photo by Denise Conrad/GIA

Technical Challenges
There was broad agreement that retailers must adapt to technology, not just in sales channels, but in ways it can help individualize each customer.

In one discussion led by HBS Professor Dr. Krishna Palepu, attendees heard a case study detailing the benefits and risks of selling on Amazon. While the company can offer manufacturers and retailers a new sales platform, there is constant pressure to reduce prices, and in one significant instance, the risk of Amazon sourcing products from the same supplier and selling them at a lower price.

In the “Futurescape Forum,” Drosos explained that omni-channel retailing is a necessity because customers routinely cross channels in their shopping experience; starting online and ending in the store. Online channels can enhance the in-store experience by making it possible for customers to make appointments online – 90% of such appointments result in a sale, she noted.

Wong said that 15% of Chow Tai Fook’s sales by volume are done online, but mainly in small gold items and in charms, such as Hello Kitty and Disney characters. At the high end, Kadakia said that 90% of Christie’s auction business is still done by traditional bidding, but the remainder is online, mainly from younger clients buying pieces under $10,000.

“This is how we target younger customers,” he said.

David Ager, managing director of executive development at the Harvard Business School, spoke about authentic leadership using the case of Swiss watch executive Jean-Claude Biver as an example. Photo by Denise Conrad/GIA

Adapting to Consumers
Connecting with consumers in new ways with new messages is necessary today. And, trying to be all things to all people makes everything average, which consumers do not want. In addition, business must adapt to a millennial workforce comprised of people who switch careers often because they value diverse experiences and often do not want to stay for a company over the long term.

The business program, led by Dr. David Ager, managing director of executive development at HBS, analyzed the case of Swiss watch executive Jean-Claude Biver, who helped revitalize an industry beset by competitive challenges from Japanese quartz watches and a lack of new thinking.

Biver managed to communicate his vision of Swiss watches as art and craftsmanship to consumers who valued connoisseurship, and almost singlehandedly revived the industry. The risk was alienating some customers by moving upscale, but Biver, in a video, said he wanted to communicate his passion for excellence in his products to consumers.

Another Harvard session led by Palepu described how Apple’s success was driven by making consumers love technology and equate it as a luxury brand.

“It delivered a difference that the customer wanted,” Palepu said.

The changing workforce was a key discussion point in the “Futurescape Forum.” Goldberger told the audience that organizations should not become too insular and that people with diverse backgrounds bring new thinking. Also, he said, “the reality of today is that tech people move every two or three years, so we have a choice: do we lose them entirely or benefit from their talent while they are here.”

Cleaver noted that there are excellent opportunities to diversify the diamond industry because it traditionally has not been so, while Wong said his company brings in talented designers by offering them a platform to create and sell their designer pieces.

“Talented people need that freedom,” he pointed out.

Johnson added that not everyone wants to switch careers, but businesses must adapt to workers who cannot be on hand full-time.

GIA research scientist Dr. Evan M. Smith presenting his most recent discoveries on “The Formation of Natural Type IIa and IIb Diamonds” during the research track. Photo by Eric Welch/GIA

Natural and Laboratory Grown Gems
Laboratory grown consumed a great deal of discussion in the gemological research sessions and in the “Futurescape Forum,” where panelists agreed they have a place in the market, but that natural diamonds will still be the choice to mark life’s landmark occasions.

Dr. David Fisher, of De Beers’ Technologies, described the evolving technology in detecting synthetic diamond, noting “the key to any detection technique for synthetic diamonds is a fundamental understanding of the differences between them and natural diamonds.” Dr. Sally Eaton Magana, of GIA, offered a summary of CVD grown synthetics seen in the Institute’s labs.

Presenters also detailed methods and challenges of synthetics detection.

The discussion in the “Futurescape Forum” focused mainly on the market for man-made diamonds.

Kadakia said he was confident that natural diamonds will remain the consumer choice because they will always have value, while synthetics will not hold value over time.

Goldberger noted that, while engagement ring buyers invariably prefer natural diamonds now, we cannot take this for granted for the future. He cited the examples of consumers who in the 1990s said they loved browsing bookstores, and then deserted them for online channels.

Cleaver said that synthetic diamonds’ place in the market was firmly in the fun and fashion side.

Research track keynote speaker Dr. Saleem Ali, a Blue and Gold Distinguished Professor of energy and the environment at the University of Delaware, presented "Gemstones and Sustainable Livelihood: From Mines to Markets." Photo by Emily Lane/GIA

Gemstone Sourcing and Production
Dr. D. Graham Pearson, professor at the University of Alberta, Canada, described advances in understanding of how diamonds were formed through geothermal analysis, and Dr. Steven B. Shirey, of the Carnegie Institution for Science, talked about how to interpret diamond ages by studying mineral inclusions within the stones.

Sustainable gem production and trading was also an important topic at the Symposium.

Dr. Saleem Ali, of the University of Delaware, said gemstones had a good story to tell: they are passed down through generations; they are an important source of wealth transfer from rich nations to poorer ones; and gem origins often determine value, which provides a base for consumer assurance.

In the “Futurescape Forum,” Cleaver related the economic and political success of Botswana, once one of the world’s poorest nations. Diamond revenues, he said, coupled with good governance, helped transform the country into one of Africa’s most prosperous nations.

Echoing Ali, he said “it’s a story not always told – the good that diamonds can do in employing people and development.”

Drosos said customers are interested in knowing the origins of their diamonds and that Signet is working to acquaint all of its employees with its corporate social policies regarding sourcing.

Wrapping up the Symposium, GIA President and CEO Susan Jacques said, “The future of our industry is incredibly bright. Disruption is not unique to gems and jewelry, and these challenges are great opportunities.”

“Embrace innovation and embrace change, for those most able to adapt to changes survive and thrive.”

The Symposium proceedings will be published in the Fall 2018 issue of Gems & Gemology, GIA’s quarterly journal, which will be available at no cost on GIA.edu in November. @topic:12


Publish Year: - Title: National Retail Federation Predicts a Cheery Holiday Abstract: This regal diamond brooch/hair ornament ripples like a lacy diamond ribbon and centers on a ruby and diamond cluster (6.89 carats). It was made by Bachruch, of Budapest, circa 1900 and was given by Archduke Frédéric of Austria to his daughter, Archduchess Marie Anne of Austria, Princess Elie de Bourbon Parme, for the birth of her son, Charles, in 1905. It will be offered at a Nov. 12 Sotheby's auction. Courtesy of Sotheby's

The National Retail Federation (NRF) says that all of the building blocks are in place for a strong 2018 holiday season in the U.S. – it is predicting an increase of 4.3% to 4.8% over last year.

The NRF said the strong economy, wage growth and rising consumer confidence should offset concerns of rising prices from escalating trade tensions to bring consumers to stores and online marketplaces. One caveat – the survey was completed before the mid-October stock market volatility.

Online sales continue to take a bigger slice of the retail market, but many traditional retailers are adapting to the cyber market to claim their share. Retail sales will be done increasingly across multiple “channels” (online, mobile and in-store), according to top retail executives who spoke at GIA’s October International Gemological Symposium.

Jason Goldberger, CEO of Blue Nile, noted that in the future “nobody will be talking about retail channels” because they will blend into an overall shopping experience. Gina Drosos, CEO of Signet, the parent company of Kay Jewelers, Zale Corp and Jared the Galleria of Jewelry, said this is already the case because many sales begin online and end in the store.

The Conference Board’s Consumer Confidence Index hit its highest point in 18 years last month with a solid majority seeing the U.S. economy continuing to improve for the remainder of the year. Consumers surveyed also noted a strong job market as the main reason for their optimism.
DIAMONDS
De Beers’ October cycle (sight) sales totaled $475 million – a sharp rise from the same period last year. De Beers’ Group CEO Bruce Cleaver said the Indian rupee/U.S. dollar exchange rate (the rupee has fallen 15% against the dollar this year) “impacted demand for lower value categories” but that the rough market remains strong from U.S. demand.

In China, the on-going trade war with the U.S. has created a lot of uncertainty among retailers there, so they are taking a very cautious approach. (See September 2018 Industry Analysis).

The declining rupee affects smaller Indian diamond manufacturers who deal on the local market more than larger, international firms. The large India-based diamond firms have U.S. dollar accounts so their costs actually have declined a bit in recent months as prices have softened. Smaller companies, who have to pay in rupees, have seen rough prices rise as their currency declines.

Increased recovery and sales of larger diamonds helped Alrosa report a 9% year-on-year increase in rough sales to $331.6 million. Russia’s diamond producer noted the decline in demand for smaller goods as well, but said increased sales of 2 carat-plus rough and “specials” over 10.8 carats have increased.

This 18.96-carat Fancy Vivid Pink diamond will be offered in the Magnificent Jewels auction Nov. 13 at Christie’s in Geneva. Courtesy of Christie’s

AUCTIONS
Sotheby’s Geneva is set to auction an array of royal jewels that belonged to Marie Antoinette and others in mid-November. The Royal Jewels from the Bourbon Parma Family sale on Nov. 12 will feature important pieces that belonged to the French queen, as well as other rulers from the Habsburg and Bourbon families. The jewels had been kept under wraps for nearly 200 years before resurfacing this year.

Christie’s is trying to capture some of the auction attention by offering the 18.96 ct Pink Legacy, a GIA-graded Fancy Vivid pink diamond that is property of the Oppenheimer family on Nov. 13. De Beers’ is hoping the diamond will shatter the world record price for a pink diamond, which stands at $46 million. @topic:7


Publish Year: 2013 Title: Large Synthetic Moissanite with Silicon Carbide Polytypes Abstract: Figure 1. This 29.73 ct synthetic moissanite (left) was submitted as a black diamond. Surface-breaking graphite inclusions were easily observed, including the largest one at the upper left table edge. The mosaic patterns on the table surface became distinct when viewed under a Raman microscope (right). Photos by Sood Oil (Judy) Chia, left, and Kyaw Soe Moe, right.

Silicon carbide (SiC) is composed of a carbon atom surrounded by four silicon atoms in a tetrahedral form. Colorless synthetic moissanite is pure silicon carbide; the incorporation of impurities produces colors, including black. Its high hardness (second only to diamond) and thermal conductivity make it a convincing diamond simulant. Both transparent and opaque synthetic moissanites have been submitted to GIA’s laboratory over the past two decades. In this report, we examine a 29.73 ct synthetic moissanite submitted as a black diamond (figure 1, left).
An uneven surface and surface-breaking black inclusions were visible with the unaided eye. Mosaic patterns of light and dark gray regions were observed under a microscope and became distinct in the Raman image (figure 1, right). Small cavities and polish lines in different directions were present on the table surface, and a granular texture was observed in a large cavity on the girdle. Raman spectroscopy identified the dark gray regions as silicon carbide.

Interestingly, each random testing spot showed mixed bands of silicon carbide polytypes (i.e., identical chemical composition but a slightly different crystal structure). The polytype 6H-SiC (6 = the number of stacking sequences, H = hexagonal, and SiC = silicon carbide) was detected by Raman bands at 789.6, 765.0, and 148.0 cm–1. Other polytypes were also distinguished by Raman bands: 3C-SiC (C = cubic) at 970.1, 968.4, 797.8, 795.4, and 788.2, cm–1; 4H-SiC at 785.7 cm–1; and 15R-SiC (R = rhombohedral) at 768.4 cm–1 (figure 2; see also P. Colomban, “SiC, from amorphous to nanosized materials, the example of SiC fibers issued of polymer precursors,” in M. Mukherjee, Ed., Silicon Carbide—Materials, Processing and Applications in Electronic Devices, InTech, 2011, pp. 161–186). In addition to these bands, a sharp Raman band assigned to silicon was detected at 520.2 cm–1 at a few spots. Bands corresponding to 6H-SiC at 238.8 and 148.0 cm–1 could not be detected at all measurement locations. Light gray regions were identified as silicon at 520.0 cm–1 (figure 2, left inset). Black inclusions, both eye-visible and microscopic, were confirmed as graphite. As figure 3 illustrates, the micro-image of a graphite inclusion showed an amorphous graphite vein (broad Raman bands at approximately 1561.0 and 1339.0 cm–1) inside a crystalline graphite matrix (sharp bands at 1580.0 and 1350.0 cm–1)

Figure 2. Each random spot showed mixed Raman bands of silicon carbide polytypes: 6H-SiC at 789.6, 765.0, and 148.0 cm–1; 3C-SiC at 970.1, 968.4, 797.8, 795.4, and 788.2 cm–1; 4H-SiC at 785.7 cm–1; and 15R-SiC at 768.4 cm–1. Silicon was also found at 520.2 cm–1 in spots 2 and 3. Bands at 238.8 cm–1 (possibly related to 6H-SiC) and 148.0 cm–1 (6H-SiC) were missing at spot 3. Light gray regions with a band at 520.0 cm–1 (left inset) were identified as silicon; the black regions were identified as graphite. The spectra have been shifted vertically for clarity. Photo by Kyaw Soe Moe (right inset).

Figure 3. Micro-imaging of a graphite inclusion (inset) showed a vein in matrix. The matrix was composed of crystalline graphite, as suggested by sharp Raman bands at 1580.0 and 1350.0 cm–1. The vein was identified as amorphous graphite by broad bands at approximately 1561.0 and 1336.0 cm–1.  Photo by Kyaw Soe Moe (inset).
During SiC growth, rotation along the covalent bond generated alternate stacking layers of Si and C atoms along the c-axis with different structural sequence, which is noticeable in the (1120) plane but not along the basal plane. This rotation can occur at very low energy. Since constant growth energy is difficult to control, two or more silicon carbide polytypes can form simultaneously during the growth process; this phenomenon is called polytypism. Raman spectroscopy has been used to detect these polytypes. Although there are more than 250 known polytypes, SiC can be classified as either beta (β) or alpha (α) type. The beta type crystallizes in cubic lattice symmetry (e.g., 3C-SiC), the alpha type in hexagonal symmetry (e.g., 6H-SiC).
Traditional growth methods for silicon carbide involve sintering and hot pressing, and there are also newer techniques. Reaction-bonded silicon carbide can form when liquid silicon reacts with porous graphite. This silicon carbide contains both pure silicon (as a bonding component), and graphite. Earlier studies have suggested that black synthetic moissanite containing silicon inclusions could be grown by the physical vapor transport (PVT) method (see Winter 2009 GNI, p. 308; Spring 2011 Lab Notes, pp. 54–55). Using PVT, researchers have grown large silicon carbide bulk crystals up to 50 × 25 mm at a rate of 1.2 mm per hour at 10 kPa pressure (Q.-S. Chen et al., “Growth of silicon carbide bulk crystals by physical vapor transport method and modeling efforts in the process optimization,” Journal of Crystal Growth, Vol. 292, 2006, pp. 197–200). Nevertheless, Raman analysis at several testing points confirmed only the 6H-SiC polytype.
This sample was submitted for a Colored Diamond Identification and Origin Report, but one should always pay close attention to surface features, such as the mosaic pattern of light and dark gray regions in reflected light, together with surface-breaking black inclusions not observable in black diamond. @topic:4


Publish Year: - Title: Rockefeller and Fancy Blues Highlight Spring 2018 Auctions Abstract: This 8.01 ct Fancy Vivid blue diamond pendant, mounted by Moussaieff of London, drew a top bid of over $20.4 million at Christie’s May 29 Hong Kong auction. Photo courtesy of Christie’s.

The Spring 2018 auction season recovered from a slow start to post solid – if not record-breaking – prices for top fancy colored diamonds and gemstones. The biggest auction event of the season, however, was the series of sales from the estate of Peggy and David Rockefeller that brought in more than $835.7 million, most of it destined for charitable donations.

The proceeds from the jewelry portion of the estate, auctioned in conjunction with Christie’s June 12 Magnificent Jewels sale, totaled $3.12 million against a pre-sale estimate of $780,000. The top lot of the 19 pieces from the Rockefeller collection was a 5 carat (ct) Kashmir sapphire set by jeweler Raymond Yard, which sold for $372,000, and a suite of peridot and diamond jewelry that brought $348,500.

Christies’ auctioned the Rockefellers’ collection of artwork by Renoir, Rivera, Matisse, Picasso, Monet, O’Keefe and others, along with decorative arts objects over a period of 10 days in May, realizing $832.6 million for a dozen charities.

Fancy blue diamonds were the best performers in the regularly scheduled auctions. Before the season began, dealers at the March Baselworld show had numerous calls from clients who believed fancy blues were underpriced, especially in comparison to fancy pinks. After this season, that is probably no longer the case.

On May 29 Christie’s sold a GIA-graded 8.01 ct Fancy Vivid Blue diamond for nearly $20.5 million, or $2.55 million per carat. This was not a record, but an extremely strong price.

A GIA-graded 3.09 ct Fancy Intense blue diamond drew a $5.375 million bid at Christie’s April New York auction, a record for the highest per-carat price ($1.7 million) ever paid at auction for a diamond of that grade. The following day that record was shattered by a 3.37 ct cut-corner rectangular shape diamond of the same grade that sold for $6.663 million or $1.9 million per-carat. This diamond was also graded by GIA.

The high per-carat price was unusual because the diamonds were much smaller (well under 10 carats) than previous record-setting stones.

A 95.45 ct pink Ceylonese sapphire and diamond pendant sold for $2.3 million at Sotheby’s May 15 auction in Geneva. Photo courtesy of Sotheby’s.
Provenance, not size, was the defining characteristic of the most significant blue diamond of the season. The 6.16 ct Farnese Blue sold for $6.7 million at Sotheby’s Geneva May 16 auction, nearly doubling its pre-sale estimate. The diamond, graded Fancy Dark gray-blue by GIA, was from India’s famed Golconda Mine and was first given to Elisabeth Farnese, daughter of the Duke of Parma, in 1715 when she married Philippe V of Spain. The diamond was passed down through seven generations and, as Elisabeth and Phillippe’s descendants married into other European families, it traveled from Spain to France, Italy and Austria before going up for sale this year.

Fancy pink diamonds however, struggled this season, especially at the outset. At the same Sotheby’s New York sale, a 7 ct square cut Fancy Intense pink diamond, estimated at $4.2 to $5.2 million, failed to find a buyer, as did a 7.37 ct Fancy Intense orangey pink emerald cut diamond.

The 4.59 ct ruby, set by Tiffany & Co., which had come from the estate of the famed songwriter Irving Berlin, doubled its pre-sale estimate to sell for $1.15 million at Christie’s June 12 New York auction. Photo courtesy of Christie’s.
Two major rubies achieved strong prices. A 24.70 ct Burmese ruby sold for $11 million at Sotheby’s Hong Kong, while one of the most publicized lots from Christie’s June 12 New York sale was the 4.59 ct Berlin Ruby, a Burmese stone set by Tiffany and owned by the wife of the famed songwriter Irving Berlin. The gem doubled its pre-sale estimate to sell for $1.15 million. Additionally, a 95.45 ct pink Ceylonese sapphire sold at Sotheby’s May 15 auction for $2.3 million.

The first appearance of Paraíba tourmaline in an auction top 10 occurred when a private buyer paid $2.78 million at Christie’s May 29 Hong Kong auction for a pair of 7.46 ct and 6.81 ct stones respectively, to total $194,730 per carat. That was a world auction price for this gemstone.

Paraíba tourmalines rarely appear in the top 10 auction results, but this pair, weighing 7.46 cts and 6.81 cts, sold for nearly $2.8 million at Christie’s May 29 Hong Kong auction. The $194,730 per carat price was a record for Paraíba tourmaline. Photo courtesy of Christie’s.
Other significant colorless diamonds sold, all graded by GIA, included:

a 51.72 ct GIA-graded F If diamond that sold for $9.26 million at Sotheby’s May 15 auction
a 20.47 ct D Fl old mine cut diamond sold for $2.6 million, just over its low estimate, at Christie’s June 12 sale
a potentially D If 15.36 ct heart shape diamond went for $1.57 million at Christies’ New York June 12 sale

This 51.72 ct D If diamond sold for $9.26 million at Sotheby’s May 15 auction. Photo courtesy of Sotheby’s.
Despite the season’s slow beginning, Christies’ Chairman for Europe and Asia Francois Curiel noted that the “rare and beautiful continued to hold ground.” He added that the absence of large fancy colored diamonds at auction this season was a sign of their rarity, not so much as a weakness in demand.

In addition to its regularly scheduled sales, Sotheby’s has begun a series of online auctions of loose diamonds in more commercial sizes. The auction house featured five diamonds of 1, 2, 3, 4 and 5 carats (3 round, one pear shape and one emerald cut) over a two-week period starting June 14. It will hold another auction of loose diamonds in December.

An 18th century colorless diamond and natural pearl pendant that belonged to Marie Antoinette of France, estimated to sell for $1 to $2 million, will be auctioned by Sotheby’s Nov. 12 in Geneva. Photo courtesy of Sotheby’s.
Jewels from one of history’s most legendary royals, Marie-Antoinette, will be a highlight of the fall season. Sotheby’s will be selling her jewels, which include a large diamond necklace, a natural pearl necklace and a diamond and pearl pendant, as part of the Royal Jewels of the Bourbon Parma Family sale on Nov. 12 in Geneva. @topic:7


Publish Year: 2017 Title: Screening of Mounted Melee Using the GIA iD100 Abstract: Figure 1. A diamond ring with 100 melee side stones incorporated into the setting. Photo by Sood Oil (Judy) Chia.

As previously reported in the G&G Lab Notes section, significant amounts of melee-size synthetic diamonds, both HPHT- and CVD-grown, are being manufactured for the jewelry industry. Over the past year, we have seen more instances of synthetics incorporated into finished jewelry pieces.

Recently in GIA's New York laboratory, we examined a diamond ring with 100 colorless melee side stones, each about 0.5 mm in diameter (figure 1). Using the new GIA iD100TM screening device, we were able to screen these melee. The device uses sophisticated spectroscopy technology to distinguish natural diamonds—either loose or mounted—from synthetics and simulants. The operator simply points the probe at a diamond, and the result is given within two seconds. Out of the 100 melee from this ring, one stone was referred by the GIA iD100 for further testing (figure 2).

Figure 2. One stone, about 0.5 mm in diameter, was referred by the GIA iD100TM for further testing. Photo by Sood Oil (Judy) Chia. The inset photo shows a prototype of the iD100.
Upon further examination, the stone was determined to be a type IIa diamond (no detectable nitrogen impurity). Examination in the De Beers DiamondView instrument revealed strong phosphorescence to short-wave UV radiation, typical for HPHT-grown synthetic diamonds (figure 3). Further examination using photoluminescence (PL) spectroscopy detected a very weak silicon impurity and a very high concentration of nickel, often a catalyst used to grow HPHT synthetic diamonds.

Figure 3. The referred melee displayed strong phosphorescence to short-wave UV radiation, as is typical of HPHT-grown synthetic diamonds. Image by Paul Johnson.
This ring offered an excellent example of how the GIA iD100 can quickly screen very small mounted diamonds and accurately detect any synthetics or even simulants. @topic:4


Publish Year: - Title: Hong Kong Show 2017: Demand Improved, But Still Spotty Abstract: The 2.11 ct cushion cut Argyle Everglow Fancy red diamond is the centerpiece of the 2017 Argyle Pink Diamond Tender. The highlights of the collection were displayed at the Hong Kong show. From left: the Argyle Kalina, a 1.50 ct oval shaped Fancy Deep pink; the Argyle Avaline, a 2.42 ct cushion cut Fancy purple pink; the Argyle Everglow; the Argyle Isla, a 1.14 ct radiant shaped Fancy red; and the Argyle Liberte, a .91 ct radiant shaped Fancy Deep gray violet. Photo courtesy of Rio Tinto.

Demand for loose diamonds was stronger than expected at the September 2017 Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair. Most was centered in very specific sizes and qualities, with the market favoring larger companies that carried a full range of goods. Smaller firms that serve market niches found business very slow if they did not have goods to match specific requests.
Demand was strongest for larger (3-plus ct) sizes and medium qualities - I to K colors and SI clarities with Excellent cut grades. The Chinese market is starting to revive, but buyers remained price-conscious and avoided the top colors, exhibitors said.
The reason for such selectivity is that inventory levels of polished stones remain quite high, so retailers were buying only goods for which they had an immediate need.
“Demand has improved,” said an executive of one major diamond firm. “But it’s still not high enough to offtake current inventories in any meaningful way.”
Inventories continue to concern banks serving the diamond industry. Three years ago, most of those banks instituted a requirement that a third party auditing firm must confirm the values of inventories. De Beers and other producers have instituted the same requirement “to ensure their knowledge of diamond stocks is accurate,” said the executive.
Fancy color diamonds remained a staple of the Hong Kong shows, but still-lofty prices put a damper on buying. Prices for fancy pinks, blues and top yellows have remained stable in the past two years, which removes the urgency to “buy now or pay more later,” dealers said. In reality, dealers have little room to maneuver on prices because competition to buy these stones from producers remains intense, along with the prices.

Attendance was up at both Hong Kong September shows. Demand for loose diamonds was stronger than expected, but buying was cautious for gemstones and finished jewelry. Photo by Russell Shor/GIA
ARGYLE PINK DIAMONDS
Argyle previewed its 2017 pink diamond collection at the Peninsula Hotel in conjunction with the Hong Kong show. The centerpiece of the collection is a 2.11 ct GIA-graded Fancy red, VS2 diamond Argyle calls the Argyle Everglow, named after a song by the British group Coldplay. The cushion cut diamond attracted most of the attention at the gathering.
The four other diamonds from the 58-stone collection on display were: the Argyle Isla, a 1.14 ct radiant cut Fancy red; the Argyle Avaline, a 2.42 ct Fancy purple-pink; the Argyle Kalina, a 1.50 ct. oval Fancy Deep pink; and the Argyle Liberte’, a 0.91 ct. Fancy Deep gray-violet.
ALROSA DIAMONDS
Alrosa conducted its annual tender of polished and rough diamonds at the show. The centerpieces of the tender were the five D, VVS1 “Dynasty Collection” diamonds cut from the 179 ct The Romanovs rough diamond found two years ago. The largest stone is a 51.38 ct round brilliant, followed by a 16.67 ct pear shape, a 5.05 ct oval, a 1.73 ct pear and a 1.39 ct oval.
Alrosa’s deputy director of sales, Evgeniy Tsybukov, said the rough was approximately oval shaped but had a feather that would make the polished an SI clarity.
“We studied the diamond for six months, deciding whether or not to try for a 100 carat oval,” he said. “Then we decided to make multiple diamonds from the stone.
The Dynasty collection diamonds will be sold via online tender in October.
SYNTHETIC DIAMONDS
Synthetic diamond sellers took several spaces at the show, but prominent signs at the entrances to the diamond hall at the Asia World Expo announced that many of the 1,000 + diamond firms exhibiting had pledged to sell only natural diamonds. Accordingly, the companies selling synthetic diamond were housed across the hall in the colored stone area.

These carved Paraíba-type tourmalines weigh a total of 58.08 carats and were offered by Kleinman & Co., San Francisco.  Photo by Russell Shor/GIA
COLORED GEMS
Demand for colored stones, pearls and finished jewelry was slow for the second straight year according to exhibitors, as the Chinese market continues to struggle with a reduction in demand for luxury products.
Dealers reported that sales of higher quality, untreated ruby, sapphire and emerald were better than last year, though nowhere near the levels of three years ago. Demand for quality jade also rebounded from last year, despite continually lofty prices.
Requests for treated stones were very slow, they said, and even less so for heavily treated low-priced goods, such as glass-filled ruby and diffusion-treated sapphire.
There was much more Paraíba-type tourmaline offered at this show than previous years, mostly at high prices, except for the obvious greenish material. By contrast, tanzanite, which had been shown in abundance at previous shows, was scarce.
Traffic at the finished jewelry section of the show in the Hong Kong Convention Centre was much stronger than last year, but business was concentrated on the high end. Exhibitors selling more commercial lines said orders tended to be cautious and limited – filling in inventory of popular items. @topic:7


Publish Year: - Title: Cautious Outlook for Fall; Gemfields Accedes to Takeover Abstract: A worker sorting emeralds at Gemfields’ Kagem mine in Zambia. Photo by Russell Shor/GIA

With rough inventories on the increase and financing for diamond companies growing more elusive, De Beers and the other major diamond producers will be approaching the summer and early fall sales periods with caution.
De Beers and Alrosa both have cycle sales (sights) set later this month and most industry watchers believe there will be reductions from June’s allocations.
De Beers did not announce a price increase at its June sight, but its clients did find some types of goods slightly more expensive, based on stronger-than-expected demand at the JCK show in Las Vegas. The sight and side sales totaled $530 million for June, a bit more than the May totals, which were $522 million.
De Beers’ executives said demand for rough was good, “following positive feedback from the Las Vegas show and in line with other trends.”
Alrosa’s June rough diamond sales totaled $354.4 million, slightly down from the June 2016 total. The company announcement, which also gave six-month total rough sales of $2.44 billion, said the market is “stable, though there was a seasonal slowdown at the end of June.”
In the weeks since Las Vegas, however, retail sales, including jewelry, have remained slow in the U.S. New taxes on the trade in India and a tug-of-war between a bank and a major Antwerp diamond firm have undercut confidence.
The Indian government imposed a 0.25% tax on rough diamond imports in June, which took effect this month. The country’s diamond manufacturers denounced the tax, saying profits are already under extreme pressure and that this tax could cause some to start losing money and shedding workers.
FINANCES
In Antwerp, KBC Group Bank and diamond manufacturer Excelco are at odds over $29 million in outstanding loans, resulting in a see-saw battle over its assets. Excelco is a leading Antwerp manufacturer and former De Beers’ sightholder that supplies a number of U.S. retail chains.
Originally reported by Bloomberg News, KBC, which is winding down its diamond portfolio, obtained an order earlier this month to have the company’s assets seized from its Antwerp offices. This followed a seizure of company assets held by De Beers and ABN Amro bank. Exelco reportedly owed KBC $29 million.
On July 6, however, a Belgian court ordered KBC to return all of the company’s assets, claiming it was on-track to repay its loan by 2020, as contracted.
COLORED GEMS
The not-quite-friendly takeover of Gemfields by its largest shareholder, Pallinghurst, is not expected to have a significant impact on the gemstone mining company’s operations. As it reverts to a privately held company, however, the gemstone world could lose an important source of information.
In fiscal 2016, which ended in September of that year, Gemfields:

Ruby: 10.3 million carats of both high quality and commercial grade from its 75%-owned Montepuez mine in Mozambique. Sold for $73.1 million.
Emerald: 30.1 million carats of high and commercial grade from its 75%-owned Kagem mine in Zambia. Sold for $101 million. Gemfields claims Kagem accounts for 25% of the world emerald production by volume.
Amethyst: 964,548 kilograms from its 50% stake in the Kariba mine in Zambia. Sold for $660,000.

A Gemfields’ survey of the global colored gemstone market in 2016 reported that world sales of gemstones and cultured pearls totaled an estimated $8.4 billion; 69% of that amount were ruby, sapphire and emerald.
Gemfields’ executives had advised its shareholders to reject Pallinghurt’s offer because it “significantly undervalued Gemfields and its prospects as a leading player in the colored gem sector.”
The company also owns Fabergé, the luxury jewelry manufacturer (2016 sales were $11.8 million). @topic:7


Publish Year: - Title: Economists See Bright Holiday Season Abstract: Burmese rubies, such as these, were banned from import into the U.S. from 2008 until President Obama lifted sanctions on them on Oct. 7. This 17.30 gram crystal in calcite (center), was found in Kyauksaung, Myanmar and was presented to the GIA museum by William F. Larson. The three Burmese rubies in front of it, (left to right) are: a 1.77 ct. oval cut, a 2.21 ct. cushion cut and a 6.32 ct. oval cut. They are courtesy of Edward Boehm. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA.

	While jewelry sales have been fairly flat in the U.S. this year, the National Retail Federation (NRF) is predicting a strong 3.6% increase for all retail in the coming holiday season. The NRF said consumer confidence is on the rise, jobs have become more plentiful and incomes have been climbing. All of these factors will push growth higher than the 10-year average of 2.5%.

	Economists at financial institutions are even more bullish on the season, the Centurion newsletter reported. The accounting firms of Deloitte and PriceWaterhouseCoopers (PWC) both anticipate strong gains. PWC is calling for a 10% increase, citing a consumer survey that also found consumers favoring independent stores and local brands.

	U.S. jewelry retailers could use the good news. In the first half of the year, Tiffany & Co. same store sales were down 9%, Blue Nile sales were flat and Signet Group (Kay, Zales, Jared Galleria) were down 2.5%.

	Worldwide, luxury sales have been struggling with Swiss watch demand showing monthly declines for over a year, especially at the higher end. Richemont (Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, and several luxury watch companies, including Baume & Mercier and Vacheron Constantin) was down 16% through the first half. LVMH (De Beers retail and Bulgari) was a bright spot, showing a 4% gain, mainly from the introduction of several watch lines.

	COLORED STONES

	U.S. President Obama removed the ban on imports of ruby and jade from Myanmar (Burma) on Oct. 7 during a visit by State Counsellor of the Republic of the Union of Myanmar Aung San Suu Kyi. The move may contribute to a revival of ruby mining in Mogok and Mong Hsu, which reportedly had declined significantly after the 2008 ban was enacted.

	There was no real consensus among dealers on how this action will affect the ruby market. Many believe the Burmese deposits have been winding down and that the ban (at least for Mogok stones) was widely ignored in the past few years. Others maintain that the ban, coupled with production cuts, sharply curtailed ruby supplies in the U.S. and prompted some prominent retailers, Tiffany & Co. in particular, to stop selling the gemstone.

	NGOs protested the decision, noting that human rights in Myanmar are still threatened by the military clique that still has a grip on much of the country’s economy, and the continuing violence against the Shan people, an ethnic minority concentrated in the Mong Hsu region.

	DIAMONDS

	De Beers sold $485 million worth of rough diamonds at its Sept. 26-29 cycle (previously called sight), raising prices 1% to 2% on goods that would polish out to a carat or larger and lowering them slightly for melee-sized stones. The total was slightly larger than expected given the continuing credit problems in the diamond industry and the upcoming Diwali holiday in India, where manufacturing operations close for two weeks or more.

	Russia’s Alrosa sold $454 million worth of rough and $18.9 million in polished in September, nearly double the August totals for rough diamonds, which was $243 million. August polished sales were $12 million. Alrosa’s second half sales are 58% above comparable 2015 levels, which were marked by oversupplies and buyer revolts over high rough prices. First half sales were 23% higher by value, 21% higher by carat volume. @topic:7


Publish Year: 2008 Title: The Wittelsbach Blue Abstract: The 35.56 ct Wittelsbach Blue is one of the largest historic blue diamonds ever fashioned. It belonged to the Bavarian House of Wittelsbach and was displayed in the Treasury of the Munich Residence until it disappeared in 1931. It was secretly sold in 1951, “rediscovered” in 1961, and then sold again in 1964 to an undisclosed private buyer. In December 2008, the Wittelsbach Blue was sold at Christie’s London to jeweler Lawrence Graff for just over $24.3 million, a record price for any diamond at auction. This article describes what is known about the Wittelsbach Blue since it was first reported in 1666, and the gemological information released to date on this diamond, which was recently graded Fancy Deep grayish blue. Investigations in the historical archives of Bavaria, Austria, and Spain revealed that there is no archival evidence to support many previous statements about this stone.

	DATA DEPOSITORY

Inventory of the Munich Treasury, 1774
	Winter, 2008 @topic:10


Publish Year: - Title: Fall 2009 G&G Book Reviews Abstract: “Famous Diamonds, 5th Ed.”
By Ian Balfour, 335 pp., illus., publ. by Antique Collectors’ Club [www.antique-acc.com], Woodbridge, Suffolk, UK, 2009. $95.00

	“Cameos: Old & New, 4th Ed.”
By Anna M. Miller, edited by Diana Jarrett, 382 pp., illus., publ. by Gemstone Press [www.gemstonepress.com], Woodstock, VT, 2009. $19.99

	“Sapphire Mining in Madagascar”
Contributions to Gemology No. 8, 46 mins., released by GRS Gemresearch Swisslab [www.gemresearch.ch], Lucerne, Switzerland, 2009. $40.00

“Profiting by Design: A Jewelry Maker’s Guide to Business Success”
By Marlene Richey, 135 pp., illus., publ. by MJSA Press [www.mjsa.org], Providence, RI, 2008, $34.95

“Cristalli: L’Ordine dal Caos [Crystals: Order from Chaos]”
By Adalberto Giazotto, Federico Pezzotta, and Giovanni Pratesi, 240 pp., illus., publ. by Giunti Editore [www.giunti.it], Florence, Italy, 2008 [in Italian], 48.00

“Gill’s Historical Index”
By Joseph O. Gill, 647 pp., illus., publ. by the author [www.archive.org, search for “Joseph Gill”], 2009, Free

To view the full section, download the PDF above.

	DATA DEPOSITORY

Famous Diamonds, 5th edition - Additional Material
	Fall, 2009 @topic:6


Publish Year: - Title: Hoop Dreams: NBA Championship Rings Abstract: You need world-class skill, teamwork and inspiration to win an NBA championship. You need the same qualities to make a NBA championship ring.
	To find out what it takes to make an NBA championship ring, we interviewed executives at Jostens and Jason of Beverly Hills. Both companies have designed and manufactured these ultimate status symbols for professional players.

	Jostens is one of the most prolific producers of championship rings. Its resume includes 46 NBA championship rings, 31 Super Bowl rings, Major League Baseball World Series rings, National Hockey League Stanley Cup championship rings, NASCAR rings, Major League Soccer championship rings and hundreds of college and high school championship rings. It most recently designed and made NBA championship rings for the Miami Heat, winners of the 2011-2012 and 2012-2013 seasons.

	The Miami HEAT ring posed a unique design challenge. Recreating the logo – 0.5 carat diamond basketball swooshing through a net – was particularly difficult, according to Jostens. The ring also had a secret message on the side panel. Underneath the Larry O’Brien trophy are 16 lines made of 14K gold. Head coach Erik Spoelstra brought a trophy into the locker room when the team made the playoffs. He told the players that they needed 16 games to become champions, and each time the team won a game, he put a notch in the trophy.

	Jostens’ 2013 NBA championship ring for the Miami HEAT was equally impressive: It boasted 10.3 carats worth of diamonds – the current record holder for the largest amount of diamonds in a Jostens’ basketball championship ring.

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	Jason of Beverly Hills has made three NBA Championship rings since 2009. The company most recently crafted the 2014-2015 Golden State Warriors championship ring (Steph Curry proudly wears it), and the 2008-2009 and 2009-2010 rings for the Los Angeles Lakers.

Golden State Warriors Championship Ring for the 2014-2015 Season. Courtesy: Jason of Beverly Hills.

	More than 6 carats of diamonds and blue sapphires decorate the 2015 NBA championship ring for the Golden State Warriors. It also features impressive workmanship, symbolism and hidden messages.

	The 240 diamonds in the ring stand for the team’s wins under the current ownership. The circular top is a nod to the shape of the Warriors jersey logo and the shape of a basketball. The custom-made 67% pure gold (approximately 16K) used in the Golden Gate Bridge and the players’ numbers represent the Warrior’s 67 wins in the season.

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	Designing the Ring

	Designing an NBA championship ring is a sprint in creativity and skill. Once the final shot is taken, Jostens and Jason of Beverly Hills rush to beat another buzzer: they will have about four months to design and make the ring, which is presented to the players on opening day of the next season. Designs are shown to the team. The team owners pick a vendor. A budget is set for the entire project and the amount to be spent on each ring. This varies from team to team.

	Jason of Beverly Hills starts designing as soon as the game clock winds down. When creating the ring for the Golden State Warriors, its designers hand-sketched a concept they thought would wow the players. This was made into a 3D CAD model. Jason of Beverly Hills then met with Steph Curry, Draymond Green and Andre Iguodala to refine the design. Owners Joe Lacob and Peter Guber provided additional suggestions. The company integrated all the input, creating a design that captured the identity of the team.

	Jostens uses a different approach. When the final four teams face off in the NBA playoffs, its designers create mock-ups for all of them. This way they are ready to present designs – no matter who wins. The Jostens’ design team shows its initial renderings to the winners. Players share pivotal moments and events from the season. The owners tell what elements they want in the ring. Jostens then returns with final designs about three to four weeks later. The goal is to make the championship story come to life in gold, diamonds and other gemstones.

	Crafting the character of a championship season may have been a little easier for Jostens during the 1990s, when the Chicago Bulls won six championships. Jostens designed all these rings, so they knew something about the franchise, its owners and the team. Owner Jerry Reinsdorf and his wife collaborated closely with Bulls star Scotty Pippen to create the design for the 1993 Chicago Bulls NBA championship ring, which Michael Jordan proudly wears.

Creating a 3D Bulls logo was a demanding task. It features a man-made red stone that required impressive design skills to make and set it. © Jostens, Inc.

	Manufacturing the Ring

	When designing the ring, Jostens uses a 13-step process that combines old-world craftsmanship and the latest technologies. Hand sketches are turned into CAD/CAM layouts. Manufacturing is anchored in the lost wax process (a wax model of the ring is encased in material and burned away before molten metal is poured into the cavity), which is used along with 3D printing. Every ring is handcrafted and customized for each wearer. The company believes that this blending of old and new allows them to offer a superior product.

	Ring sizes vary, from as small as a size five for a smaller person who works at the franchise, up to 23 for the players. The company has master tools that allow them to create rings of all sizes.

	When Jason of Beverly Hills makes the rings, the table for every piece has the same circumference. The ring sizes, however, are scaled for each individual. All rings are made in-house; it takes six to eight weeks to manufacture all of them.

	As for gems, Jostens uses natural diamonds, sapphires, rubies and emeralds in its NBA championship rings. Synthetic stones may be used on occasion, either to match the specific Pantone color of the franchise’s uniform or for gemstones that must be custom cut into complex shapes. The goal, however, is to use a natural gemstone whenever possible.

	“We use colored gems to create the team’s logo and other design elements. This is a relatively new trend in championship rings, which only used to feature diamonds. The Boston Red Socks and St. Louis Cardinals are two recent examples where we used rubies to create the logo,” said Chris Poitras, vice president, sports marketing and development at Jostens.
Jason of Beverly Hills has used only natural stones in the three NBA rings it created. Gems are sourced from around the world and are typically cut in Canada.

	As for metals, 14K white gold is the most common choice, according to Jostens. Platinum and yellow gold are occasionally used. Jason of Beverly Hills shared that 14K white and yellow gold are the most popular metals. Poitras predicts that yellow gold will be making a comeback in the next year or so.

	Evolution of NBA Championship Rings

	Championship rings have changed over the decades. According to Poitras, “Championship rings have changed from simple symbols of victory to a sophisticated extension of the team’s brand. Since these brands are iconic, the logo, font and important moments are worked into the design, making the finished product a retelling of the team’s path to victory and a reflection of the franchise.”
Turning the ring into a brand extension requires a larger canvas, and that means a larger ring. Bigger athletes have also contributed to ever-increasing ring sizes. The Boston Celtics 1969 NBA championship ring by Jostens is a dramatic example of how they’ve evolved.

Considered cutting edge at the time because a diamond was set on top of the basketball crest, the Boston Celtics ring features a 0.5 ct diamond set in 10K yellow gold. ©Jostens, Inc.

	Jason of Beverly Hills sees the bling factor as the primary driver behind bigger rings. “Every owner is trying to outdo each other with a bigger and better ring,” said Jason Arasheben, jewelry designer and owner of Jason of Beverly Hills.

	Personalizing the Ring

	NBA championship rings are a study in personalization. A player’s name and jersey number are usually engraved in the shank. The number of gemstones used may represent the number of players on the team roster or a key milestone in the team’s season or history. The team’s motto, jersey numbers of the players, final scores of important games, and other significant details are subtly incorporated into the design.

The 14K white gold ring Dallas Mavericks championship ring has more than 250 brilliant round and princess cut diamonds with a total weight of approximately 10 carats. ©Jostens, Inc.

	Jostens’ 2011 NBA championship ring for the Dallas Mavericks is an example of this impressive craftsmanship and rich symbolism. Six individual pieces were needed to make the Mavericks’ logo, part of the 14 total ring components. Another 31 custom princess-cut diamonds surround it, representing each year the Dallas Mavericks have been in the NBA. Flush set around the rest of the ring top are round brilliant diamonds.

	The player’s name and a single star appear on the side panel, which symbolizes the Mavericks’ first championship. The other side panel has a star set with one round brilliant diamond. The Mavericks “M” is set with 15 round brilliant cut diamonds representing the 15 players on the championship roster.

	Designing the ring was an impressive dash to the finish line. An NBA work stoppage prevented Jostens from talking to the players to get their input on the design. When they finally could, the company had just 17 days to design the ring.

	“NBA championship rings are becoming more like elaborate wearble pieces of art,” said McKenzie Santimer, GIA manager of museum exhibits.

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	All NBA championship rings made by Jostens and Jason of Beverly Hills come with lifetime warranties. Jostens notes that, as great care is made in making the rings, they are rarely returned for repair. If a ring is ever damaged, players contact their dedicated customer service representative.

	Personalizing the L.A. Lakers Rings

Jason of Beverly Hills used 15K gold for the L.A. Lakers 15th championship. Courtesy: Jason of Beverly Hills

	When the L.A. Lakers won its 15th championship for the 2008-2009 season, Jason of Beverly Hills set 15 large round brilliant diamonds weighing 2.85 cts. on the table to commemorate it. The company also used 15K gold to celebrate the milestone.

	The Lakers' rings mirror the shape of the exterior of their home arena, the Staples Center. When viewed from the side, the "roof" and "sides" are visible.

	Every player’s face was etched in into the side of the ring. CAD/CAM and 3D printing was used to create the images. Kobe Bryant and his team members are each immortalized in their own ring.

Sixteen over-sized round brilliant diamonds on the table symbolize the 16 historic Lakers' championships. Continuing the theme of “16,” Jason of Beverly Hills alloyed 16K gold for the ring. Courtesy: Jason of Beverly Hills

	Jason of Beverly Hills also created the NBA championship ring for the 2009-2010 L.A. Lakers. It has two trophies that represent the back-to-back championships.

	A clever touch: A piece of the basketball from the winning game is forever preserved in the ring.

	The NBA Championship Ring Ceremony

	Under the bright lights of opening night of the new season, the players receive their rings. So does everyone who works for the franchise. It’s a thrilling moment. The championship ring is now a permanent tribute to the accomplishment of the past season.

	Jason of Beverly Hills added a bit of pizazz to its presentation. Each player was given a box that had a motorized turntable and built-in lights to illuminate the ring. This turned the box into something between a museum display case and a nightclub dance floor.

	A new season will begin in the fall and all 30 teams will compete to win the Larry O’Brien trophy. Only one will walk away victorious. And the process of crafting the NBA Championship ring will start all over again. @topic:6