Publish Year: - Title: Books: Heavenly Bodies: Cult Treasures and Spectacular Saints from the Catacombs Abstract: By Paul Koudounaris, 192 pp., hardcover, illus., publ. by Thames & Hudson, 2013, $29.95.

                      In Heavenly Bodies, Paul Koudounaris has chosen an unusual topic for research: The idea of honoring the early martyrs by adorning them with lavish metalwork and gemstones. One initial impression might be that this work has a religious theme, yet it covers many interesting historical points not tied to religion. Koudounaris’s impartial research on the so-called catacomb saints gives insight into aspects of the schism within the Christian faith in Europe following the Protestant movement.

The book examines the skeletons discovered by chance in Roman catacombs (underground tombs) in the mid-16th century. The Vatican declared the tens of thousands of skeletons found in these vast underground labyrinths to be remains of early Christian martyrs. The location alone was sufficient proof of martyrdom, and no further evidence was sought to declare their authenticity. The Catholic Church was delighted to have a substitute for the holy relics that were largely destroyed during the Protestant Reformation in German-speaking European countries. The skeletons were examined and authenticated in Rome, then dispatched to other Catholic parishes, mainly in Germany and Switzerland.

Upon their arrival, the skeletons were lavishly adorned. Fragile bones would be reinforced by animal glue; missing parts would be replaced by wood or sometimes metal. They would be preserved with wax and meticulously covered with gauze, silk, and gemstones and pearls set in silver. The decorative work took hundreds of hours and was performed by nuns and silversmiths on each skeleton that went on display. Some churches had to wait until they could collect the funds for this costly task. It is interesting that when the church couldn’t afford natural gems, it compromised and used imitation stones, and even these weren’t inexpensive at the time. Many devotees supported the cause by donating jewelry and money. After all, these luxuriously decorated skeletons were a great attraction and a source of income for the church.

By the 19th century, pride in the catacomb saints had faded. The revered relics became an embarrassment due their questionable origin. The Catholic Church itself began to doubt the authenticity and the necessity of these objects. Once considered remains of the saints, the ornately embellished skeletons began quietly disappearing from the public scene. Today, a few churches in Switzerland and Germany still maintain them, but not on public display. Paul Koudounaris was granted access to the few remaining specimens for research, and the book is magnificently illustrated with more than 100 of his photos.

Heavenly Bodies is an illuminating read for jewelry historians and gemologists alike, as it reveals an unusual aspect of jewelry and use of gems. @topic:6


Publish Year: - Title: Books: The Art of Bulgari:La Dolce Vita and Beyond, 1950–1990 Abstract: By Martin Chapman and Amanda Triossi, 174 pp., hardcover, illus., publ. by The Arts Museums of San Francisco/Delmonico Books/Prestel, 2013, $34.95

                      For those who associate Bulgari with vivid colored stone cabochons or antique Roman coins mounted in gold jewelry, Chapman and Triossi’s book is an eye-opener. The Art of Bulgari served as the catalog for the exhibition of the same name at the de Young Museum in San Francisco, intended to chronicle the succession of glamorous celebrities who have worn Bulgari from the dolce vita years of Italian cultural creativity through today. The authors also aim to trace the development of Bulgari’s creative aesthetic through compelling and sometimes surprising examples of its work. In both respects, they succeed.

The jewelry and luxury goods firm is so strongly associated with Rome that it may surprise readers to know that the founder, Sortirio Bulgari, opened his first shop in his native Greece. He later relocated to Naples, and finally to Rome in 1881, where the flagship store, opened in 1905, still stands at 10 Via Condotti.

Prior to World War II, the company operated as a traditional goldsmith shop, but thanks to Sortirio’s forward-thinking sons Costantino and Giorgio, Bulgari began to take a more contemporary direction. Jewelry inspired by Greco-Roman classicism, the Italian Renaissance, and the 19th-century Roman school of goldsmiths took hold, as Bulgari acquired important gemstones and created exclusive luxury pieces, including an emerald and diamond necklace commissioned by American socialite Brooke Astor.

In the post-war 1950s and ’60s, American movies were often filmed in Italy, where production costs were advantageous. As a result, many Hollywood stars fell in love with Bulgari’s bold new style, which featured large pieces set with colored gemstones. Most notable of these was Elizabeth Taylor, although Audrey Hepburn, Ingrid Bergman, Ava Gardner, and Gina Lollobrigida were also steady customers. Wealthy and influential socialites, including Barbara Hutton and Diana Vreeland, also became collectors.

Beginning with the 1950s, Chapman and Triossi show us the evolution, decade by decade, of Bulgari’s distinctive style. The use of color in so many Bulgari pieces stands out, but some gold and diamond jewels featured in this book, such as the Fireworks necklace and the Parentese parure, both from the Heritage Collection, are likewise dazzling.

The book devotes a chapter to pieces from Elizabeth Taylor’s Bulgari collection. Taylor is quoted as saying, “Undeniably, one of the biggest advantages of working on Cleopatra in Rome was [the Bulgari store].” It is clear how dearly she loved this jewelry, wearing her Heritage Collection platinum necklace with emeralds and diamonds to receive an Academy Award in 1966 and again when she was introduced to Queen Elizabeth II of England.

The Art of Bulgari also showcases whimsical pieces  that are relatively unknown. Such items include a gold measuring stick (1970), a silver-and-gold St. Moritz cigarette case (1977), a silver-and-gold tennis ball canister (1980), and a wonderful boat paperweight (1974) fashioned of sterling and gilded silver to look like a boat of folded paper. An exotic gold table clock with onyx, mother-of-pearl, and diamond (1980) is set off by two antique Chinese jade belt hooks.

The text is enhanced by excellent photography, with many jewels displayed in full-page plates. Original sketches of jewelry designs also add visual interest and insight, and photos of famous clientele wearing their Bulgari jewels abound. From magnificent bib necklaces and snake bracelet watches, to the whimsical Star-Spangled Banner series and ice cream cone brooches, this is a stunning look at Bulgari.

Chapman is a curator at the Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco, and Triossi, a jewelry historian and consultant, is curator of the Bulgari Heritage Collection. Together, the authors do an admirable job of presenting Bulgari’s history and cultural impact. @topic:6


Publish Year: 2014 Title: Books: Ruby & Sapphire:A Collector’s Guide Abstract: By Richard W. Hughes, 384 pp., hardcover, illus., publ. by the Gem and Jewelry Institute of Thailand, 2014, $99.00.

Ruby & Sapphire: A Collector’s Guide has surpassed my grandest expectations. Richard Hughes’ eloquent prose, combined with magnificent photos, is a masterful tribute to the people from faraway lands who find and fashion these gems to brighten our world. This book is an indispensable treasure trove of information that will serve as a guide to help navigate the gem underworld. It also rivals any coffee table book, featuring beautiful photos that Hughes, his wife, and their daughter captured over many journeys together.

As Hughes notes in the foreword, his focus is on the relationship between people and gems, which he calls “humanistic gemology.” While many artisanal small-scale miners toil for years without success, he explains, some do strike it rich, instantly elevating them and their families into a new realm of existence. As Hughes points out, however, wealth does not always bring happiness and can often be fleeting. One of my favorite sidebars is the legend of Darky Garnet, who arrived in Rubyvale, Australia, with only a wheelbarrow full of worldly possessions. Garnet struck it rich, lived like a king, shared his wealth with friends and strangers, and left penniless with only his wheelbarrow and the shirt on his back. He is celebrated to this day with an annual tribute one must read to believe.

The first chapter features colorful illustrations and photos of ancient frescos, mines, and jewelry dating back hundreds and even thousands of years. Hughes suggests that Sri Lankan traders brought rubies and sapphires to Europe in early Greco-Roman times, making them the earliest stones of value tendered for international trade and commerce. Today, a gemstone’s value is defined by its beauty, rarity, durability, and transportability. This chapter continues with the varied and abundant history associated with the search for and fashioning of corundum. Ruby and sapphire were frequently mistaken for other gems such as spinel and lapis. It was not until the advancement of mineral science in the 17th and 18th centuries that these two members of the corundum family were fully understood. Another major obstacle in the understanding of gems relates to nomenclature, or “wordsmithing” as Hughes aptly puts it; these issues still exist in the trade today. Hughes states that until the early 19th century, the word “oriental” was used as a prefix to describe gems that could achieve a higher polish because of their superior hardness. Thus oriental topaz actually referred to yellow sapphire, while oriental amethyst referred to purple sapphire. In 1805 Rene Just Haüy formally combined these and other sapphires, along with ruby, into the group now known as corundum.

The chapter on source countries takes the reader on an incredible adventure to ruby- and sapphire-producing countries, providing a virtual tour of these fascinating locales. Hughes begins with a clear, concise explanation of the geologic forces that led to the conditions required for gemstone mineralization. Fascinating details are provided about the people, mining, and production in the major corundum sources: Southeast Asia, Central Asia, Australia, Africa, and North America.

Hughes then shares many secrets of the trade to help collectors make educated decisions. Details of what to look for in color, clarity, cut, and country of origin are clearly conveyed, but the reader is encouraged to always go with personal preference. In the case of ruby, the market tends to favor stones with a more intense color, but Hughes advises not to overlook those of slightly less saturation that might offer more brightness and versatility. A sidebar titled “Clarifying Clarity” provides delightful insight on how to judge a gem’s internal issues. He suggests that the budding collector “develop perspective” through research, visits to auctions and gem shows, and networking with jewelers and dealers. One of the most interesting excerpts features renowned mineral and gem dealer William Larson expounding on his vast connoisseurship of crystals. Larson shares how his passion for minerals, which began when he was just a boy, has grown into one of the finest private collections of specimens in the world. He offers his suggestions on building a meaningful collection.

One of my favorite sections examines left-brain objective pricing vs. right-brain subjective preference. A graph comparing recent auction results, coupled with gem photos, gives a colorful dimension to the author’s message. Understanding gem value is one of the most difficult things to master. Auction results, scattered throughout the book, provide the reader with tangible examples of some of the finest gems and jewelry sold over the past two decades, such as a 6.04 carat Burmese ruby which sold in 2013 for over US$3.3 million, and an 8.91 carat Kashmir sapphire which sold in 2012 for over US$1.3 million. He also includes wonderful sections on judging stars and cabochons, fancy-color sapphires, and suites.

Chapter four delves into the internal world of forensic gemology, balancing out the book’s earlier focus on people, places, emotion, and lore. Hughes explains the skills and instrumentation needed to identify synthetics, treatments, and country-of-origin characteristics. Well-deserved tribute is paid to the artistic skills and scientific knowledge required to properly capture, identify, and apply microscopic observations. The benefits and drawbacks of gem treatments are also clearly discussed.

Another valuable tool in the gemologist’s arsenal is a reference library. Chapter six gives direction on how to accumulate a useful and refined gemological library. As always, Hughes provides a generous and detailed bibliography, recommending numerous volumes and journals. In the final chapter, many of the amazing photos featured throughout the book are beautifully grouped to help communicate the subtle nuances that make up the diverse corundum family.

Throughout, Richard Hughes spices up the book with his colorful style, personal anecdotes, quotes, and fascinating sidebars. Every gemologist, dealer, connoisseur, collector, and gem enthusiast should own this indispensable work. @topic:11


Publish Year: - Title: Emerald Quality Factors Abstract: This 5.30-carat emerald from Brazil has a slightly bluish green color. Courtesy John Parrish, courtesy African, Brazilian, Colombian Gems Incorporated.

                      Emerald has many special qualities, but colored stone professionals generally agree that emeralds are, most of all, about color. Emerald has been the standard for green among colored stones for thousands of years.

As with other colored stones, it requires a well-trained eye to recognize the sometimes subtle variations that make significant differences in emerald value. This is especially true in the higher qualities.

Color
The most desirable emerald colors are bluish green to pure green, with vivid color saturation and tone that’s not too dark. The most-prized emeralds are highly transparent. Their color is evenly distributed, with no eye-visible color zoning. If the hue is too yellowish or too bluish, the stone is not emerald, but a different variety of beryl, and its value drops accordingly.

The intensity of the green in the finest emeralds might not be equaled by anything else in nature.

Chromium, vanadium, and iron are the trace elements that cause emerald’s color. The presence or absence of each and their relative amounts determine the exact color of an emerald crystal.

Emerald appearance is sometimes associated with its mine location. Colombian emeralds are said to have a warmer and more intense pure green color. Zambian emeralds are said to have a cooler, more bluish green color. In spite of these theories, the truth is that emerald appearance overlaps between sources.

Clarity

	Emeralds that have no eye-visible inclusions are very rare. Tino Hammid, courtesy ICA.
Emeralds typically contain inclusions that are visible to the unaided eye. Because of this, trade members and some consumers understand and accept the presence of inclusions in emeralds. Eye-clean emeralds are especially valuable because they’re so rare.

Emerald inclusions are often described as looking mossy or garden-like. They’re sometimes called “jardin,” which is French for garden.

	This 10.03-carat stone is a trapiche emerald. Its inclusions form rays in a star-like pattern. This well-executed cabochon cut shows off this unusual arrangement. Courtesy Colombian Emeralds Co.
In colored stones, transparency and clarity are closely linked. This is especially true for emeralds. The trade generally accepts eye-visible inclusions in higher-quality emeralds. But when the inclusions have a negative effect on transparency and clarity, they also dramatically reduce value.

In early 2000, the GIA Laboratory began offering a classification service for emerald clarity treatments. The laboratory examines a loose stone and provides an Emerald Report that includes a digitally generated color image of the stone taken at the time it’s examined. The report describes the level of clarity enhancement as minor, moderate, or significant. The GIA Laboratory emphasizes that it uses the classification system only to evaluate the level of treatment, and not to offer an overall clarity grade for the stone.

Cut
The cutter must consider the rough’s depth of color, durability, and inclusions when making cutting decisions. Mistakes cause weight loss, which greatly reduces the value of a potentially valuable gem.

Four characteristics of emerald crystals make them difficult to cut. First, almost all emeralds have significant fractures (sometimes called fissures in the trade). A cutter must design the cut to minimize the effect of those fractures on the finished stone.

The second factor is due partly to those inherent fractures: Emeralds are more brittle than a gem like corundum. This makes them vulnerable to damage during cutting, polishing, and setting, or even during careless daily wear. The emerald cut can help protect against damage because the vulnerable corners are faceted and provide a comparatively safe place for prongs.

Third, because color is so important in establishing an emerald’s value, the cut must maximize the effect of hue, tone, and saturation. The cutter can affect color by adjusting an emerald’s proportions and number of facets. The cutter can darken a pale stone with a deep cut, a small table, and fewer facets, or lighten a dark stone with a shallow cut, a large table, and additional facets.

	As the name suggests, the emerald cut is the most common cut for emeralds. Courtesy Ronald Ringsrud Co.
Fourth, the bluish green to yellowish green dichroism of many emerald crystals encourages the cutter to orient the table so it’s perpendicular to the crystal’s length. That way, the more apparent color in the cut gem is the bluish green that so many emerald lovers prize.

Colombian rough is especially challenging due to the distribution of coloring agents during formation. Its color is more intense closer to the surface. Without careful planning and cutting, the finished stone might be much lighter in color than the original material.

Carat Weight
Fashioned emeralds come in a wide range of sizes. There are emeralds in museums and private collections that weigh hundreds of carats. At the other extreme are tiny emeralds that weigh fractions of a carat.

The Sandawana emerald mine in Zimbabwe is known for its tiny, yet vividly colored stones. Its emeralds are as small as 1 mm square, but they’re still intensely green. The mine’s cut stones average about 0.05 to 0.25 carat, and rarely weigh more than 1.50 carats. Popular jewelry sizes are usually somewhere in between.

	The emerald center stone of this necklace weighs 61 carats. Courtesy Ronald Lee Schultz.
The smallest sizes range from 1 mm to 5 mm, with weights from 0.02 to 0.50 carat, while 1 to 5 carat stones are popular as center stones.  Prestigious pieces of jewelry can include emeralds that weigh over 20 carats.

Quality-for-quality, the price of emerald can rise dramatically as the size increases. @topic:3


Publish Year: - Title: Behind the Scenes of the World’s Most Iconic Luxury Jewelers Abstract: GIA and French Connection Films/Quasar Multimedia hosted the U.S. West Coast premiere of Masters of Dreams on Sept. 18, 2013.

	This fascinating four-part documentary series provides a rare look at 13 renowned jewelers around the world: Boucheron, Buccellati, Bulgari, Chaumet, Chopard, Damiani, De Beers Jewellery, Forevermark, Graff Diamonds, H. Stern, John Hardy, Stephen Webster and Verdura.

	The films offer a behind-the-scenes view into the glamorous and artistic world of high-end jewelry. Filmmaker Ken McGrath, GIA GG, knew convincing prominent jewelry houses to open their doors for the cameras would be challenging, but he wanted to show jewelry lovers what is involved in designing and fabricating luxury pieces.

Masters of Dreams follows the journey from design concept to finished creation at each jewelry house. The films show who designs the jewelry, where they find their inspiration, the reasons behind their metal and gemstone choices and where they work. It includes in-depth interviews with the people behind the brand and explores the values each brand reflects.

	The production quality and attention to detail in each segment is outstanding. Viewers will find the stories and processes ‒ such as watching a designer create their vision on paper and artisans crafting and engraving metals ‒ interesting and inspiring.

	Consumers will enjoy seeing how high-end jewelry is created. Gemologists will appreciate watching how gems are incorporated into jewelry. Designers and manufacturers will benefit from the chance to see how these firms create and maintain their success.

	Episode one, The Italian Jewellers, showcases the prominent Italian jewelry firms of Damiani, Bulgari and Buccellati. It was shown at the premiere held at GIA’s world headquarters in Carlsbad.

Damiani:

	This family business was founded in 1924 by Enrico Grassi Damiani in Valenza, an important jewelry manufacturing center in Italy. Following in the footsteps of their grandfather, Guido, Giorgio and Silva Damiani run the company. Their jewelry designs have received many prestigious awards and they have been recognized for their involvement in humanitarian projects. Several celebrities have collaborated with Damiani to produce special pieces for the company’s high-profile clientele.

	Giorgio Damiani, inspired by the film Burlesque starring Christina Aguilera and Cher, asked designer Christina Bagnari to create something special using the costumes as her inspiration. The segment follows the entire process, beginning with Bagnari’s sketches and her collaboration with one of their graphic designers to create a 3-D model. Giorgio Damiani sourced the diamonds in Antwerp and the set is complete, including a clasp on the bracelet that closes it like an actual corset. It was worn by actress Sharon Stone at a press event for the reopening of Damiani’s boutique in Milan.

Bulgari:

	Sotirios Voulgaris, a Greek silver merchant, traveled to Rome in the 1880s and opened a small boutique that has since become an empire, the renowned house of Bulgari. Now owned by LVMH, his grandsons Paolo and Nicolo Bulgari still supervise the creation of the jewels today.

	“Colored stones, to Bulgari, are like colors to a painter,” says Lucia Silvestri, Bulgari’s gemstone buyer, in the film. She describes the creative process that went into setting an extraordinary 165-carat sapphire. She initially planned to alternate blue and green gems in a delicate design, but decided instead to set it in a bold piece featuring multiple strands of red, orange, blue and green gems. The finished necklace was displayed at the Biennale des Antiquaires in Paris.

	Filmmakers also captured the excitement during the auction of the Elizabeth Taylor Collection in New York. Taylor discovered Bulgari while working on the film “Cleopatra” in Rome in 1962. To celebrate their wedding, Richard Burton purchased the “Seven Wonders,” a necklace set with seven Colombian emeralds totaling 188 carats. He also purchased an incredible 65-carat Burmese sapphire sautoir for her 40th birthday.

	Amanda Triossi went with Silvestri to the Taylor auction to buy back these two exceptional Bulgari pieces that represent Bulgari’s design aesthetic: colored gems as the prominent feature, along with rounded shapes, cabochon-cut gemstones and symmetrical designs. The two successfully acquired the pieces – after tense bouts of bidding ‒ and the iconic necklaces were included in Bulgari’s retrospective exhibition, “125 years of Italian Excellence,” curated by Triossi in Shanghai.

Buccellati:

	The jewelry house Buccellati has been crafting fine jewelry in Milan since 1919. Still a family business, Gianmaria Buccellati, son of founder Mario Buccellati, describes how jewels originate in his mind before he creates life-size drawings by hand. His intricate designs are usually one-of-a-kind pieces, but are occasionally made in limited productions.

	Buccellati is inspired by nature and the architecture of the Renaissance period. He sometimes creates jewels in the form of animals using baroque pearls as the body as was popular during that period. His signature pieces often have the look and feel of fine lace and fabric. Metal surfaces are hand-engraved and embellished. Quality is of the utmost importance to Buccellatti.

Masters of Dreams follows the creative process from Gianmaria Buccellati’s initial rendering to the finished necklace. Master craftsmen use traditional techniques to execute his striking designs. Just as creativity has been passed down from generation to generation, quality craftsmanship has too. Buccellati employs only two jewelers, Roberto Brown and his son Christiano, and together they manufacture these difficult, complex pieces.

Cathy Jonathan is a graduate gemologist and a research librarian at the Richard T. Liddicoat Library and Information Center in Carlsbad. @topic:6


Publish Year: 2023 Title: Purple Anhydrite Abstract: Figure 1. This 2.13 ct purple stone was identified as the rare collector gem anhydrite. Photo by Adrianna Gudino.
Recently, the Carlsbad laboratory received a 2.13 ct transparent purple octagonal step cut, measuring 7.32 × 6.34 × 6.01 mm (figure 1), for a colored stone identification service. Microscopic observation showed twinning planes, cleavage cracks, needle-like inclusions, fluid fingerprints, and strong doubling of many internal features, confirming the stone was doubly refractive (figure 2).

Figure 2. Twinning planes and fluid fingerprints were observed throughout the faceted purple anhydrite. Photomicrograph by Nathan Renfro; field of view 3.89 mm.
Standard gemological testing revealed a specific gravity of 2.97 and a refractive index of 1.570–1.615 with a birefringence of 0.045. The refractive index measurement also indicated the stone was biaxial positive, and a biaxial interference figure was resolved using a conoscope and polarized light. Purple and light purple pleochroism was observed using a dichroscope. The specimen had no fluorescence reaction when exposed to long- and short-wave UV light. These characteristics were consistent with the rare collector gem anhydrite.
Raman spectroscopy confirmed that the stone was anhydrite. Using polarized ultraviolet/visible/near-infrared spectroscopy, we were able to determine that the purple color resulted from a prominent absorption band centered at around 550 nm. A sharp absorption feature was also observed at 307 nm.
Anhydrite is a calcium sulfate with the chemical formula CaSO4. It is not well suited for use in jewelry due to its low hardness of 3.5 on the Mohs scale and its perfect cleavage in one direction. This orthorhombic mineral is commonly formed by the dehydration of gypsum, which has the chemical formula CaSO4•2H2O, and can have multiple colors ranging from colorless to pale blue, light pink, and brown that is colored by impurities. Occurrences of purple anhydrite have been reported in Switzerland, Iran, and Sri Lanka (see, respectively, Spring 1998 Gem News, p. 60; Fall 2000 Gem News, p. 262; Fall 1988 Gem News, p. 179).
Faceted gem-quality and single-crystal anhydrite is rare, and while the Carlsbad laboratory has examined a couple of anhydrite gems, they were mostly aggregates bluish in color. This is the first example of a transparent purple faceted single crystal anhydrite examined at GIA’s Carlsbad laboratory. @topic:1


Publish Year: 2013 Title: Orangy Pink Coated "Soft Coral" Abstract: Figure 1. This string of orangy pink “soft coral” beads (6–15 mm in diameter) displayed a rough surface and large pores. Photo by Gagan Choudhary.

              Dyeing white coral to imitate popular colors such as red, orange, and pink is a widely known practice. But a bead strand examined at the Gem Testing Laboratory in Jaipur, India, revealed a coloring method unfamiliar to gemologists (figure 1).

The strand weighed approximately 380 ct and contained spherical beads ranging from 6 to 15 mm in diameter. These were identified as coral belonging to the species Melithaea ocracea of the order Alcyonacea (e.g., M.C. Pederson, Gem and Ornamental Materials of Organic Origin, Elsevier Butterworth-Heinemann, Oxford, 2004, pp. 192–218). Their surface showed deep pores and dull luster. The presence of pores was sufficient to identify the beads as soft coral, which is also characterized by a spongy, brittle, rough appearance.

Although their identification was straightforward, the beads’ appearance caused doubt regarding their color origin. When viewed under magnification (figure 2), distinct color concentrations were visible within the surface pores and cavities. The coloring agent was restricted to the surface, producing an enamel-like appearance in the trenches while the ridges appeared white. This evidence suggested that the beads were coated with paint rather than dyed.

	Figure 2. Under magnification, distinct color concentrations are visible within the pores and cavities of this “soft coral.” The apparent use of a coloring agent only on the surface, evidenced by the enamel-like appearance within the trenches and the whiteness of the ridges, suggests these beads were coated, not dyed. Photomicrograph by Gagan Choudhary; magnified 48×.
Although the microscopic features were sufficient for identification, further tests confirmed those findings. Under UV light, the beads displayed bright orange fluorescence (more strongly under short-wave), a feature commonly associated with pink-orange dyes. No typical absorption spectra were visible under a desk-model spectroscope or recorded with a UV-Vis-NIR spectrometer. This is because the beads’ dull luster, opacity, and rough, uneven surfaces neither reflect light (in diffused reflectance mode) nor absorb it (in transmission mode). Weak and broad absorption bands were displayed at approximately 540 and 680 nm, and the presence of calcium carbonate (aragonite) was confirmed by Raman spectroscopy.

Such “soft coral” is commonly dyed red and the pores are filled with a polymer to enhance polish and luster. But this specimen’s color and luster were unusual. The lab also received similar coral strands in pink and black, suggesting this dye method can produce a variety of colors. @topic:5


Publish Year: - Title: Bench Tip #6: Use a Split Mandrel for Finishing Round Bezels Abstract: Finishing round bezels

A bench jeweler typically uses a split mandrel to sand and finish the inside of a ring. Various grits of abrasive papers can be cut to size and inserted into the slit of the mandrel, where they are held by friction during the rotary filing process. With minor modification, you can use the split mandrel as a holding device to finish round bezels and other small jewelry components quickly and consistently.

	You can modify a standard split mandrel so it will hold small jewelry components for finishing.
To illustrate this, we will make a bezel for a gemstone measuring 4.5 millimeters round. The bezel will be hand-fabricated from 4 x 1 mm sterling silver flat wire. To determine the length of flat wire required to fabricate the bezel, multiply the gem’s diameter (4.5 mm) by pi (3.14) to find its circumference, which equals 14.13 mm. The bezel is cut from the flat wire, formed, soldered, then rounded and trued. The truing step, typically accomplished with a ball- or setting-style bur, is critical to rounding the inside of the bezel.

You will need to make a minor modification to the split mandrel to fit and hold the bezel for this use. Calipers, dividers and an equaling file will be required. The outside diameter of the split mandrel measures 5.5 mm and the inside diameter of the hand-fabricated bezel measures 3.5 mm, so the split mandrel must be filed down.

With the mandrel secured in the hand piece, brace it and start spinning the flexible shaft at a moderate speed. Place the equaling file flat against the mandrel shaft about 3.0 mm from the top of the tool and apply adequate pressure to begin filing down the mandrel shaft. Continue filing until the shaft diameter is reduced to 3.8 mm.

Next, squeeze the upper shaft of the split mandrel and place the bezel on it so it extends about 0.5 to 1.0 mm above the top of the tool. This makes it possible to sand the top of the bezel, too. The bezel will be held firmly in place by the tension of the split mandrel throughout the remaining steps in the finishing process.

	This split mandrel has been modified by filing down the end of the shaft.
The flexible shaft can be spun at moderate speed, and a variety of abrasives can be placed against it to smooth and polish. This technique also gives you greater hand-eye control to apply the surface finish on small areas.

	Place the bezel on the mandrel for finishing.
A modified mandrel gives you a dual-purpose tool for sanding or cleaning up bezels and other small parts. The next installment of the GIA Insider will present a stone-setting application using a different modification of the split mandrel. @topic:6


Publish Year: - Title: Shane McClure Reveals Fascinating Finds from the GIA Lab Abstract: Shane McClure, GIA's director of West Coast identification services, regaled AGS Conclave attendees with some of the unusual cases that have crossed his desk.

                      GIA’s founding father Robert Shipley had a groundbreaking 1934. In addition to launching Gems & Gemology, he established the American Gem Society (AGS) with the intent of promoting professional ethics and continuing education for those in the gem and jewelry industry. In keeping with Shipley’s vision, AGS’ annual Conclave celebrated the society’s 80th year from April 23–26 at San Diego’s Hotel del Coronado, hosting numerous educational seminars, presentations, and networking opportunities. On Thursday, April 24, Shane McClure, GIA’s director of West Coast identification services, presented “A Day in the Life of a Laboratory Gemologist,” exploring the work he has undertaken during his years with the Institute.

McClure compared his role to those of a detective and a forensic scientist, explaining that frequently lab staff must take an unknown material and figure out what it is, while also determining whether the material has been treated. The lab sees specimens that run the spectrum from very rare material to items people find in their own backyards that they hope will prove valuable. McClure considered some of the more unusual cases that he had seen in his years at GIA, discussing interesting identification situations, composite materials, and scams.

Among the identification highlights were a specimen that was sent to the lab as possible opal that turned out to be a piece of bowling ball; a material called  “rainbow calsilica,” reputedly from Mexico, from which the lab removed a piece of a soda bottle; and a sapphire inclusion in a diamond. The latter is now owned by GIA and housed in their reference collection. McClure also referenced a diamond scalpel, that was identified as a CVD grown synthetic diamond, as well as a piece of charcoal that the owner believed might be a black diamond.

According to McClure, composite materials are becoming more common. This may be a result of the rising price of gems coupled with the quantity and low prices required by TV shopping networks for large-scale sales. While the lab most frequently saw such situations in ruby and turquoise, an unusual case involved a pink and green tourmaline held together with plastic.

McClure also discussed specific scams that had come to the attention of the lab during his tenure; for example, so-called “sapphires” and “rubies” that were supposedly worth millions, if not billions of dollars, in some cases using questionable appraisal reports. GIA’s labs saw these cases throughout the 1970s and 80s. He also cited misrepresentations, such as non-identification of treatment. In one instance, the lab received purple opal, supposedly from Kenya or Mexico. Creative testing methods revealed that the opal was from Ethiopia, and had in fact been dyed to appear purple.

McClure closed his presentation with the hot topic of jade nomenclature. He explained how the discovery that another pyroxene mineral called omphacite can be virtually identical in appearance, color, and properties to jadeite, is causing trade experts to reconsider what materials may be defined as “jade.” GIA itself, he noted, has begun to identify some omphacite as “omphacite jade” on reports.

McClure’s experience provides trade members with greater insight into the curiosities lab personnel encounter, and the innovative solutions they implement, during the course of their work. @topic:6


Publish Year: 2023 Title: Luminescent Synthetic Garnet-Like Crystals Abstract: Figure 1. Yellow to greenish yellow faceted cerium-doped YAG “lumogarnets” ranging from 4 to 12 ct apiece. Photo by Lisa Kennedy; courtesy of Turtle’s Hoard.
At the 22nd Street show, the author spoke with Tim Challener of Turtle’s Hoard (Raleigh, North Carolina), who was selling some unique rough and faceted luminescent synthetic garnet-like crystals, which he referred to as “lumogarnets.” After 12 years in the gem business, Turtle’s Hoard began selling only laboratory-made materials in March 2022. Challener noted that their best-selling gemstone is Ce:LuAG, lutetium aluminum garnet (Lu3Al5O12) doped with cerium. This material was introduced to the optics industry in the late 1990s and acts as a scintillator, a fluorescent crystal that absorbs high-energy radiation such as X-rays or gamma rays and reemits them as lower-energy visible light that is much easier to detect. LuAG is closely related to YAG electronically and both have the same garnet structure, yielding a gem with similarly excellent optical and gem properties (see figure 1).
Yttrium aluminum garnet, known as YAG (Y3Al5O12), a lab-grown crystal that crystallizes in the cubic garnet structure, was one of the most popular diamond simulants from the 1960s to the mid-1970s due to its relatively good hardness (about 8.25 on the Mohs scale) and brilliance. Cartier’s replica of the 69.42 ct Taylor-Burton diamond famously used YAG. Gadolinium gallium garnet, known as GGG (Gd3Ga5O12), was the next garnet-like material to be used as a diamond simulant. GGG is slightly more brilliant and dispersive than YAG but scratches fairly easily due to its lower hardness (about 6.5 to 7.5 on the Mohs scale).
Most of these garnet-like crystals are doped with various rare earth elements such as neodymium, erbium, cerium, and ytterbium. These dopants not only increase the materials’ value in the optics industry but also yield the variously colored synthetic garnet-like crystals seen in the gem and jewelry industry today.

Figure 2. The top of a YAG boule doped with cerium and neodymium and produced by the Czochralski method, measuring approximately 36 mm in diameter and 45 mm tall. Parts of the boule that cannot be used for scientific purposes can be sold to the gem and jewelry trade for faceting. Photo by Lisa Kennedy; courtesy of Turtle’s Hoard.
These synthetic garnet-like crystals are most commonly produced by the Czochralski method, also known as the pulling method. In this melt process, the boule (a cylindrical synthetic crystal produced by a melt process) grows from a thin cylindrical seed crystal that is dipped into a melt of the desired garnet composition. The seed is rotated and then lifted very slowly at a controlled rate, allowing the melt to crystallize onto it. The material produced is extremely pure, with few inclusions or none at all. However, the material is not actually made for the gem and jewelry industry; rather, those in the industry can only purchase some of the less-perfect material and off-cuts of the boules to facet and sell (figure 2).
Challener explained, “They are lab-created, but each one has its own history beyond its use as a gem. And while there have been conflicting messages about whether some lab-grown stones, particularly lab-grown diamonds, are truly eco-friendly, the materials we work with are an inevitable byproduct of necessary crystal growth. Our modern lives rely on these materials being grown—we can’t have cell phones without lithium niobate or modern PET scanners without scintillators—so there isn’t really any additional waste associated with them.”

Figure 3. Greenish blue rough and cut ytterbium-doped YAG. The cabochon in front is 14 × 10 mm. Photo by Lisa Kennedy; courtesy of Turtle’s Hoard.
Turtle’s Hoard offered a variety of “lumogarnets,” including rough and faceted luminescent yellow and yellowish green cerium-doped GAGG (gadolinium aluminum gallium garnet, Gd3Al2Ga3O12), cerium-doped LuAG, and cerium-doped YAG (see again figure 1). In addition, they displayed rough grayish purple neodymium-doped YAG, rough and cut greenish blue ytterbium-doped YAG (figure 3), rough pinkish orange erbium-doped YAG, and rough and faceted green chromium-doped YAG, a green stone with strong red fluorescence showing simultaneous flashes of green and red based on lighting, dubbed “Christmas garnet.” Although synthetic and possessing a garnet-like structure, YAG, GGG, LuAG, and GAGG are not synthetic garnet, since they lack the chemistry of any garnets known in nature. @topic:1


Publish Year: 2021 Title: Mabe Cultivation in Mayotte Abstract: Figure 1. These assembled cultured blisters (mabe) showing a curved top (left) and flat bottom (right) were cultivated in Mayotte. The largest is 21 mm in diameter. Photos by LFG.
The Laboratoire Français de Gemmologie (LFG) received some mabe samples (figure 1) from Antoine Ganne of the Mayotte-based company Nuru Kombe for gemological characterization. According to the company, these samples were cultivated in Pteria penguin bivalves in a lagoon off the coast of Mayotte. This French territory is situated in the Indian Ocean between northwestern Madagascar and northeastern Mozambique, with one main island and several islets.
Mabe is the Japanese term designating an assembled cultured blister, traditionally from Pteria penguin but nowadays from other mollusks as well (CIBJO Pearl Commission, The Pearl Book, CIBJO, Milan, 2020, 79 pp.). Mabe is made of purpose-grown cultured blisters that have been cut from their shell. The original bead upon which they grew is removed, and the cavity is filled with various synthetic materials. It is then backed by a layer of shell, with the assemblage held together by an adhesive.
The studied samples ranged from light brown to brown (some of a “golden” color) with pronounced secondary colors such as blue, green, and red (again, see figure 1). Under the microscope, all samples presented the characteristic nacreous structures associated with overlapping layers of aragonite. The curved and flat sides looked very similar, suggesting they originated from the same mollusk species. The samples reacted purple to red under a long-wave UV lamp and remained inert under short-wave UV lamp excitation. Those with a more pronounced brown color exhibited a stronger intense luminescence. A similar luminescence reaction was observed in cultured pearls from Pteria sterna from Mexico (L. Kiefert et al., “Cultured pearls from the Gulf of California, Mexico,” Spring 2004 G&G, pp. 26–38). This response is due to a type of porphyrin (a tetrapyrrole with a cyclic structure) that also plays an important role in the samples’ coloration.

Figure 2. Photoluminescence spectrum of a brown mabe sample from Mayotte using a Raman spectrometer under 514 nm laser excitation. Three bands appearing at the orange and red parts of the electromagnetic spectrum at about 620, 650, and 680 nm are linked with uroporphyrin.
Raman analysis using a 514 nm laser revealed bands associated with aragonite along with a series of bands from 800 to 1600 cm–1 characteristic of porphyrins (S. Karampelas et al., “Raman spectroscopy of natural and cultured pearls and pearl producing mollusc shells,” Journal of Raman Spectroscopy, Vol. 51, No. 9, 2020, pp. 1813–1821). Photoluminescence spectra obtained using a Raman spectrometer and the same laser excitation presented bands in the orange and red part of the electromagnetic spectrum at about 620, 650, and 680 nm (figure 2). The relative intensity of these bands can vary. Luminescence spectra using a xenon lamp with 365 nm excitation presented similar bands with additional bands at about 435, 465, and 525 nm. The latter bands are possibly linked to the nacre of the samples, while the triplet of bands at 620, 650, and 680 nm has been attributed to a uroporphyrin (Y. Iwahashi and S. Akamatsu, “Porphyrin pigment in black-lip pearls and its application to pearl identification,” Fisheries Science, Vol. 60, No. 1, 1994, pp. 69–71).

Figure 3. The UV-Vis spectrum of a brown mabe sample from Mayotte displays bands at about 380, 400, 460, and 495 nm that are linked to porphyrin, along with a band at about 280 nm that is linked to nacre and organic matter.
The UV-Vis reflectance spectra of the samples featured a series of bands with various relative intensities at about 380, 400, 460, and 495 nm, along with a band at about 280 nm (figure 3). The latter band is linked to organic matter and the nacreous part of the samples, and the series is possibly linked to porphyrins (Kiefert et al., 2009).

Figure 4. X-ray microradiographs of two mabe from Mayotte show a lighter rim due to higher-density material (calcium carbonate), while the darker tones at the core represent a lower-density material such as resin. The top sample (21 mm in diameter) has a nacre thickness of 0.4 mm. The bottom sample (13 mm in diameter) has a nacre thickness of 1 mm. Images by S. Leblan, LFG.
All samples were inert under X-ray and EDXRF analysis, with an Mn content below the detection limit and Sr contents ranging from 3180 to 5280 ppm, indicating saltwater origin. X-ray microradiographs (figure 4) showed lighter tones at the rim, indicating a higher-density material such as calcium carbonate (usually aragonite) in the case of natural and cultured pearls, while the darker tones in the core indicated lower-density material such as organic matter and resin (S. Karampelas et al., “Real-time microradiography of pearls: A comparison between detectors,” Winter 2017 G&G, pp. 452–456). The samples, which could be called “mabe” or “assembled cultured blister” according to the current CIBJO standards, had a nacre thickness from 0.4 to 1 mm (again, see figure 4).
Mabe from Mayotte has only appeared recently in the market. The exact supply is still unknown, and other similar products are cultivated in other parts of the world, including Southeast Asia, Australia, and some Pacific island nations (P.C. Southgate and J.S. Lucas, The Pearl Oyster, 2008, Elsevier, Amsterdam). Nevertheless, this material could help develop the economy of Mayotte, where all the operations take place and jewelry pieces with a French touch are locally made. @topic:5


Publish Year: - Title: Alumni Members: Stand Out by Taking Advantage of Opportunities, Events Abstract: Cincinnati chapter members gathered to learn about advancements in jewelry manufacturing from specialist and guest speaker Chris Glazer, who featured a review of 3-D scanning technology. Courtesy of the Cincinnati Chapter.

Summer time and the living is easy … at least for our alumni worldwide, because in my opinion, we work in the greatest industry in the world. When you have a passion for what you do, it simply is not work. You see this in industry members and alumni who light up when they begin to talk about what they do.

To quote E.M. Foster: “One person with passion is better than forty people merely interested.”

I love this quote and can think of an extensive list of names of people in our industry whose passion proceeds them. They are industry beacons who draw us to them and inspire us with their drive to increase their expertise and knowledge and their reflection of integrity. The most remarkable thing about these people is that they measure or value their personal success by their ability to share their knowledge, act as mentors and provide service to the industry they love.

Some of these folks may be in our personal contact list and some may be on our get-to-know wish list. I suggest you put yourself out there and try to meet these beacons of the industry. Go to shows and approach an expert if you have questions, attend alumni events where industry leaders speak or attend, commit to continued learning by attending lectures and conferences. Each of these steps will help you grow your personal network of contacts and become that alumnus who stands out.

Be a person with passion. Leverage the interests that brought us all to this inspiring industry. Whether you are just starting out, in the twilight of your career, or somewhere in between, the connection we all have to GIA as alumni members and lifetime students bring us together with shared passion for an education and excellence. This is the foundation of the GIA Alumni Association.

I have highlighted alumni events below that have occurred since our last report in May and those that are on the horizon. Each activity is an opportunity to align yourself with others who share our passion for our industry. Please note the topics, speakers and locations of alumni activities that occur across the globe and take advantage of these opportunities.

Alumni chapter and GIA-hosted events are available for you to invest in yourself and become a GIA Alumni member who stands out.

Global tradeshows provide the opportunity for alumni chapter leaders to connect with GIA in person. Above, Rong Julius Zheng, president of Shanghai chapter, left, and Kate Donovan, GIA Global Alumni Relations Manager, with a cardboard cutout of Richard T. Liddicoat on display in celebration of the centennial year of his birth at the JCK Las Vegas show. Photo courtesy of Rong Julius Zheng.
GIA Hosted Opportunities

108th Gemstone Gathering – A lecture series organized by GIA Bangkok, featured “A Brief History of Colored Gemstone Faceting,” by Justin K Prim, gem cutter, author and lapidary instructor. Find out more details  on this event and future events.
GIA Alumni at JCK Las Vegas – The largest gem, jewelry and watch fair in the U.S brings more than 30,000 people together for commerce and comradery. The GIA Alumni Association and our members participated in a number of social events, including the Red Square Meet-Up and the Rocks the Bowl Party, and met up regularly at the GIA booth. Each of these were wonderful opportunities for our global alumni to connect as attendees and vendors and brought alumni members and industry friends from across the globe together.
GIA Career Fair New York – Provided a day of opportunity to all who attended and participated in July. From a dynamic opening panel of speakers and one-on-one recruiting and career coaching, this annual GIA event delivers a platform for the Institute’s student and graduates, industry leaders and the public to converge. This event helps ensure the success of our industry and its future. GIA has hosted GIA Career Fair for more than 25 years in New York and in California, and held the first-ever in Career Fair in London earlier this year. Visit the Career Fair website for more details.
GIA Advanced Synthetic Diamond Seminar – The first series of this new training program was held in Hong Kong in June and upcoming seminars will be held in Mumbai, London and Carlsbad. Read more in the press release.

GIA’s commitment to support our alumni chapters and members
Delivering a promise from GIA to expand benefits and grow support for our alumni network worldwide, the Institute arranged GIA speakers at seven global alumni chapter events since May:

Dr. Wuyi Wang, vice president of research and development, offered insight on laboratory developments, research conducted on synthetic diamonds, and the latest gem testing devices and screening services offered by GIA, in Macau and Taiwan.
Dr. James Shigley, Distinguished Research Fellow at GIA, and Brenda Harwick, GIA GG and senior manager of on campus instruction, delivered a synthetic diamond update and hands-on session, in Ohio.
Andy Lucas provided a GIA field gemology update and discussed recent expeditions to Greenland ruby mines and Ethiopia sapphire mines to alumni in San Diego and members of American Society of Appraisers (ASA) who were visiting GIA’s Carlsbad campus for an education opportunity.
Shelly Verwymeren, GIA GG and instructor, provided a synthetic diamond lecture and the opportunity to view natural diamond and samples of HPHT and CVD grown synthetic diamonds, in Wisconsin.
Crystal Nel and Elizabeth Bokaba, from GIA’s Africa staff, presented GIA Gemkids and shared tools available from GIA to step up your marketing game, to alumni in Tanzania.
Three members of the GIA Laboratory Gem Identification Department – Daniel Girma, Tyler Smith and Jessica Jasso – provided a lab update for Manhattan.

London alumni chapter leaders Lubica Micatkova, treasurer, (left), Sharon Dale, president, (second from left) and Eloise Mathieu, secretary (right) pose with Sarah Hue-Williams, guest lecturer (second from right) at the end of another successful London alumni chapter event. Photo courtesy of the London Chapter.

Recognizing Longtime GIA Alumni Leaders for Commitment and Giving Back as Mentors
The benefits of involving yourself in GIA Alumni activities or within your chapter as a leader, or otherwise, is immeasurable and it is FUN. Just ask any of the following volunteer alumni leaders. From life-long friendships, expanding business opportunities and staying relevant with up-to-date education in today’s marketplace, there’s a reason why these exceptional alumni leaders have remained actively involved with the GIA Alumni Association for more than 25 years – and continue to do so today.

Here are some former and present chapter leaders who provide valuable knowledge as presenters at our chapters:

Sindi Schloss (former president and residing president of the Metro-Phoenix Chapter) shared insight on “Estate Exotics” and the opportunity to find and appreciate the bead and gemstone necklace treasures of the past, in San Diego.
Richard Drucker (former president of the Chicago Chapter) delivered a colored gemstone pricing and treatment overview in Manhattan.
Suzanne Martinez and Starla Turner (former co-presidents and founding members of the Golden Gate Chapter) provided a historical review of diamond ring styles to Golden Gate, California.
Bill Korst (former chapter president and board member of the Michigan Chapter) presented “All About Garnets” at a gem study group and barbeque, in Michigan.
Note: many additional alumni leaders should be recognized here – their exclusion is simply because we are reporting on activities in the last three months – but we are no less appreciative for all of the folks who regularly serve as mentors, educators and volunteers in their chapters. To each of them, we thank you.

GIA Alumni Switzerland chapter members enjoy an interactive refresher of gemological equipment use by presenter Guillaume Chautru, head of the gemology department at Piaget SA. Photo courtesy of the Switzerland Chapter.
Here is a list of additional chapter news and events that have occurred since our last AlumConnect issue, in May.

Social Gatherings brought Hong Kong, Houston, Louisiana, Mumbai, South Carolina and Toronto alumni, students and industry friends together for networking fun, as well as for the celebration of Monterrey-Mexico chapter’s third anniversary.
Hands-on Instruments Workshop by Guillaume Chautru, head of the Gemology Department at Piaget SA, led a fun, hands-on refresher on tips to make an expert assessment (as a gemologist) with the use of classical gemological instruments, to members in Switzerland.
Gemology Tours and Excursions included an annual Gemstone Safari visit to Mexico’s Sea of Cortez, for the pearl harvest by members of Mexico City, and a field trip to the Heard Museum to view a retrospective collection of one of the Southwest’s most noted jewelry designers Richard Chavez’s 40-year career by Metro-Phoenix.
Twenty-First Century Jade was the featured presentation by author, gemologist and lecturer Renee Newman, GIA GG, in Washington, D.C.
Lab Grown (Synthetic) Diamonds: Products, Perception and Reality was presented by Stanley Zale, VP of Diamonds & Gemstone Procurement, Stuller, Inc. to a full house, in New England.
Jewelry History topics featured notable speakers in multiple chapters. Jason Adams discussed the history, identification and evaluation of jewelry from 17th to the 20th century, to an attentive audience in Ohio.  Lauren Abramowitz, GIA GG shared “With Tiffany Blue, What Rings True?” an in-depth presentation on how to recognize legitimate Tiffany jewelry and products from the mass produced and custom-made imitations found in the marketplace globally, with members of Twin Cities, in Minnesota.
Advancements in Jewelry Manufacturing was presented by manufacturing specialist Chris Glazer, and featured a review of 3-D scanning technology, in Cincinnati.
Expanding Service and Improving Profits by understanding and providing services to re-polish and/or re-cut diamonds and colored stones to add value to your client’s stone or your company’s inventory, was a well-received topic in Michigan.
An evening with Sarah Hue-Williams, noted historian, author, gemologist and lecturer, shared insight and stories surrounding the sales of some of the jewelry that has passed through Christie's salerooms around the world and her involvement in extensive research for some of the most significant jewelry auctions of recent years, enthralling attendees in London.

Upcoming GIA Education and Networking Opportunities
Mark your calendars for these upcoming events and valuable education and networking opportunities:

GIA Symposium in 2018 – The date is quickly approaching for this extraordinary gathering of gemstone and jewelry professionals. Current registrations include representatives from 38 countries from across the globe and we hope you consider joining. Do not miss the sixth ever symposium in GIA’s history, and the opportunity to participate in this historical event. Registration is available for the GIA International Gemological Symposium, to be hosted in Carlsbad, California from Oct. 7-9, 2018. Visit the event website for an outline of symposium experience and offerings.
Tucson 2019 – Party at the GIA Gem Mine: India Odyssey: The date and the theme is set and the GIA team is actively planning the Alumni Association’s biggest event each year. Please mark your calendar to join us on Friday, Feb. 8, 2019, for this annual gathering that brings alumni and industry friends together from across the globe. The night includes dinner, dancing and silent and live auctions and all proceeds benefit the Alumni Endowment Fund to support alumni benefits and programs worldwide. Visit the party web page to learn more.

I hope this overview of alumni activities has inspired you to get involved and benefit from the relationships and opportunities available through the GIA Alumni Association. As a global community, opportunity and education is there for you both digitally and in person, you simply need to make the effort to invest in yourself. @topic:12


Publish Year: - Title: Pre-Basel Show Price Increases Affect Gemstone Sales Abstract: The new gem hall at BaselWorld was configured similarly to the previous site, but smaller, with one entrance from the main fair. Photo by Russell Shor.

                      Business at the April 24-May 2 BaselWorld Fair was slower than expected as Asian buyers proved scarce, Europeans struggled with a slow economy and investment buyers turned a cautious eye toward the lofty prices of top gemstones.

This year’s show featured a much greater selection of top fancy-colored diamonds than previous years – vivid and intense pinks and blues, even a large intense green – but buyers willing to pay the million-dollar-plus per carat prices were scarce. The asking rates reflected the fact that, just before the show, several fancy-colored diamonds achieved record prices at well-publicized auctions. (A 5.30 carat Fancy Deep blue diamond, for example, sold for $9.5 million – $1.8 million per carat – at Bonham’s London on the day the Basel show opened.) In previous years, a number of ultra-wealthy private buyers from Asia, the Middle East and Russia attended the Basel show to buy such stones and large colorless diamonds.

Diamond dealers who did well were offering middle and lower quality colorless diamonds and smaller fancy yellow goods; these gems are normally not in abundance at Basel because show expenses far exceed other venues.

High-quality colored stones were also a difficult sell because prices for unheated Burmese ruby and sapphire, as well as Colombian emerald, increased by 20-30% in the months leading up to the show. Emeralds from other locales, however, were in strong demand due to fashion magazines touting green as the year’s most popular color for accessories.

The scarcity of Chinese buyers was certainly another factor for the slow show. These buyers helped the luxury watch companies – the main exhibitors at BaselWorld – achieve record sales last year. But watch company executives said sales this year were down 30% or more because many Chinese buyers stayed home. The reason they cited, beyond a slowdown in the country’s economic growth, was the anti-corruption campaign of the country’s premier Xi Jinping. Luxury watches, and to a lesser extent, diamonds, had been a favorite “gift” item to grease the wheels of China’s government – so much so that nearly a quarter of all Swiss luxury watch exports went there.

Gem dealers also thought the new location of the gemstone hall, which was poorly marked and difficult to access from inside the show, also helped blunt sales.

“Every year we have a few luxury watch buyers visit the gem hall for a look. Sometimes this translates into sales,” one major diamond exhibitor said. “I wouldn’t say it is a major factor, but it can make enough of a difference to turn a slow show into a decent show.”

Another dealer noted that price volatility of polished diamonds over the past year deterred a number of luxury watch companies from producing as many diamond watch lines as they had in the recent past.

“They’ve already had to deal with gold price fluctuations and don’t want to add 20% variations in diamond prices. They don’t want to deal with both at the same time,” said one diamond supplier.

The buying was somewhat better in the designer jewelry halls, particularly because more American retailers were in attendance than in recent years (despite the high rate of the Swiss franc). Retailers said they were looking for pieces to set them apart from Internet competitors. @topic:7


Publish Year: 2015 Title: Chrysocolla In Quartz Abstract: 52.96 ct and 19.16 ct chrysocolla in quartz, obtained from Rare Earth Mining Company at the AGTA show. Photos by Jian Xin (Jae) Liao.

              The Rare Earth Mining Company (Trumbull, Connecticut) booth at the AGTA show displayed a specialized inventory of unique and rare materials available as finished gemstones, mineral specimens, and fossils. Curt Heher, Rare Earth’s president of sales, reported more than 300 companies placing orders in finished stones alone: “We enjoyed our biggest Tucson show in 40 years.”

We obtained two cabochons of blue-spotted clear and near-colorless quartz, as seen above, that were reminiscent of “K2 stone” or “Raindrop azurite” seen in previous years (Spring 2012 GNI, pp. 55–56). Heher’s father bought the rough, which was crystallized around blue stalactites, at auction in the 1980s. It remained in storage until recently. The material was reportedly mined in Globe, Arizona, in the 1970s.

Gemological examination of the 19.16 and 52.96 ct cabochons revealed an RI of 1.54 to 1.55 in most areas, but approximately 1.5 in the blue area, and a 1.46 spot reading in transparent areas. Specific gravity ranged from 2.36 to 2.47. The fluorescence reaction to long-wave UV was weak white in fractures and the transparent areas. Raman analysis confirmed that the blue material was chrysocolla, the transparent to whitish areas were quartz, and the transparent cryptocrystalline areas were chalcedony. Raman analysis also indicated the presence of a hardened glassy polymer (polymethyl methacrylate). FTIR also confirmed the polymer, corroborating the stabilization that Heher indicated was needed to prevent crumbling or fracturing during the cutting and polishing process. The treatment conclusion on a GIA report would be “impregnated” or possibly “composite” if the polymer occupied significant volume or surface area.

Chrysocolla in quartz is not uncommon, but it is rare to see such defined stalactites resulting in a distinct orbicular pattern. This material often remains as mineral specimens rather than being cut for jewelry purposes. @topic:1


Publish Year: 2016 Title: GILC 2016 Abstract: The International Colored Gemstone Association (ICA) held its annual Gemstone Industry & Laboratory Conference on February 1 during the Tucson shows. Invited participants included jewelry trade association leaders, laboratory representatives, academic institutions, and ICA members. This year, other industry members were welcomed into the afternoon open discussion session.

Lore Kiefert (Gübelin Gem Lab, Lucerne, Switzerland), presenting on behalf of her colleague Daniel Nyfeler, spoke on age determination by radiogenic isotopes. Laser ablation–inductively coupled plasma–mass spectrometry (LA-ICP-MS) has enabled the Gübelin Lab to use radiometric dating to test inclusions at or near the surface of materials such as corundum and emerald, which do not have radioactive atoms. When traditional methods such as observation of inclusions and growth structure and trace element analysis lead to more than one possible country of origin, radiometric dating can furnish the decisive data. U/Pb decay in zircon has been well documented as a means to establish an approximate timeline for known sapphire and emerald populations. The corundum timeline established the oldest population as African, with an age of 450–650 million years (Ma), and the youngest as Colombian, at 10 Ma. Emerald formation ranged from South Africa at 2900 Ma to Colombia at 65–35 Ma. This method is limited when the gemstone presents no analyzable inclusions or has been treated.

James Shigley (GIA, Carlsbad) presented the Institute’s latest research findings. GIA’s work with color analysis has its foundation in observation and color grading of colored diamonds. Dr. Shigley noted that the visible spectrum is not the only cause of color; in fact, the face-up appearance is influenced by about 15 factors, including the emission spectrum of the light source, the absorption spectrum of the stone, and the color sensitivity of the eye. Since humans are more adept at distinguishing differences than similarities, the use of master stones and bracketing between pairs is well suited for visual grading. GIA uses instrumentation to supplement visual grading in face-down evaluation of round near-colorless D to Z diamonds; however, fancy-color diamonds are graded face up. GIA has been working on analytical tools that can “detect” color in the same way that the human eye processes it.

Bruce Bridges (Tsavorite USA, Inc.) asked whether gems can be reliably traced from the source to the consumer. Today’s consumer wants to know where products come from and how their manufacture affects both the environment and workers. Vertically integrated companies can promote traceability and control over ethical sourcing, but the business model cannot be applied to the small-scale operations that characterize most of the industry. Bridges outlined the convoluted path from small-scale or individual miner through a series of brokers to cutting and the “end user” market, where it may go through another series of dealers before reaching a consumer. Most colored stone sources are overwhelmingly alluvial or placer deposits in remote areas, making them difficult to centralize. Traceability is even challenging at the mine, where it is not uncommon for material from a different location to be sold without disclosure. Traceability from cutting centers can improve as host countries introduce limits on rough exports and begin developing cutting facilities, which has happened in parts of Africa, South America, and Asia.

	The conference proceeded to an open session for invited participants to discuss topics of concern, including:

		The increasing use of color enhancement and “anti-scratch” (silicon carbide) coatings, which are virtually invisible and sometimes too thin to be detected with instruments. With advances in nanotechnology, more research is needed to develop detection strategies.

		The inconsistent use of descriptive terminology in laboratory reports, a topic carried over from the 2015 conference. The laboratories maintained that they were responding to the demands of the trade. One participant pointed out that the terms “pigeon’s blood” and “royal blue” had no meaning in Chinese culture until about ten years ago. Since then, they have become “deeply implanted,” and a seemingly irreversible demand has been created for the level of distinction that these terms confer.

		Unethical or fraudulent use of lab reports. An example cited is the treatment of a gemstone after it had received a “clean” report. Another is the manufacture of both treated and synthetic diamonds to match an existing natural diamond report. GILC participants stressed the importance of checking reports against stones through every phase of the grading process.

		The use of “undetermined” on a lab report in regard to treatment or synthetic origin. Some participants voiced concerns that such determinations are beyond the technologies of labs, or that the word “undetermined” left untreated natural diamonds vulnerable to being matched with treated or synthetic stones.

	At the conclusion of the conference, it was announced that AGTA had revised its code of ethics and principles of fair business practice. ICA is proposing to adopt AGTA’s code of ethics, due diligence protocol, and source disclosure language as a basis for its own code. @topic:2


Publish Year: 2008 Title: Summer 2008 G&G Book Reviews Abstract: “Henry Dunay: A Precious Life”
By Penny Proddow and Marion Fasel, 223 pp., illus., publ. by Harry N. Abrams [www.hnabooks.com], New York, 2007. US$60.00

“Russian Gemstones Encyclopedia”
By Vladimir V. Bukanov, 472 pp, illus., publ. by Granit Publishing, Prague, 2006. €79

“Volodarsk-Volynski: Mineralogy of the Volynian Chamber Pegmatites, Ukraine”
By Vladimir Ivanovich Pavlishin and Stanislav Alekseevich Dovgyi, Mineralogical Almanac, Vol. 12, 125 pp., illus., publ. by Mineralogical Almanac [www.webcenter.ru/~minbooks], Littleton, CO, 2007. US$45.00

“Laboratory Grown Diamonds, 2nd Ed.”
By Branko Deljanin and Dusan Simic, 86 pp., illus., publ. by Gemology Headquarters International [www.ghilab.com], Mumbai, 2007, US$20.00

“Diamond Ring Buying Guide, 7th Ed.”
By Renee Newman, 156 pp., illus., publ. by International Jewelry Publications [www.reneenewman.com], Los Angeles, 2007, US$18.95

“Tables of Gemstone Identification”
By Roger Dedeyne and Ivo Quintens, 309 pp., illus., publ. by Glirico [www.gemmologie.be/GEMMOEN/BooksEN.htm], Ghent, Belgium, 2007, €89

“Verdura: The Life and Work of a Master Jeweler”
By Patricia Corbett, 224 pp., illus., publ. by Thames & Hudson [www.thamesandhudsonusa.com], New York, 2008, US$34.95

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @topic:6


Publish Year: 2023 Title: A Gastropod Shell in a Unique Shell Blister Abstract: Figure 1. The natural shell blister attached to a portion of the shell on which it formed, weighing 2.60 g (13.00 ct) total and measuring 25.54 × 18.11 × 7.79 mm. Photo by Gaurav Bera.
Natural blister pearls and natural shell blisters have long been a subject of debate for gemologists and can be very challenging to definitively identify (see G&G Lab Notes from Fall 1992, Spring 1995, Winter 1996, Winter 2015, Summer 2016, and Spring 2018). According to the World Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO), a natural blister pearl forms when a natural pearl detaches itself from the pearl sac and attaches to the inner wall of the shell, while a natural shell blister is an internal protuberance that forms on a shell’s inner surface. It is usually caused by a foreign object accidentally finding its way into the space between the mantle and shell surface.
GIA’s Mumbai laboratory recently examined an interesting dark greenish brown baroque-shaped blister attached to a portion of shell weighing 2.60 g (13.00 ct) total and measuring approximately 25.54 × 18.11 × 7.79 mm (figure 1).

Figure 2. Photomicrographs show graduated cellular structures from the natural shell blister examined in the Mumbai laboratory (A and B; fields of view 4 mm and 3 mm, respectively) compared to those from a known Pinnidae shell from GIA’s Bangkok laboratory (C and D; fields of view 4 mm and 3 mm, respectively). Photomicrographs by Jayesh Surve (A and B) and Nicholas Sturman (C and D).
Examination under 40× magnification revealed a graduated hexagonal structure on the shell base (figure 2, A and B). The shell was cut and worked around the edges, and growth layers were visible when the cut surfaces were examined. Exposure to X-ray fluorescence yielded no reaction for the shell blister. Energy-dispersive X-ray fluorescence spectrometry on two areas (top and base) revealed manganese levels below the detection limit, and strontium levels of 1470 ppm (top) and 2431 ppm (base) were consistent with those expected for saltwater pearls.

Figure 3. Top row, left to right: RTX images of the face, the right side, and the length or thickest direction reveal a prominent gastropod shell measuring approximately 8.30 × 5.75 mm within the shell blister. Bottom row: μ-CT images show the structures for the same three directions and provide even clearer details of the entombed gastropod.
Real-time microradiography (RTX), shown in the top row of figure 3, revealed a pleasant surprise. An obvious and intriguing gastropod shell was hidden beneath the overlying layers, which resulted in further study using X-ray computed microtomography (μ-CT) (figure 3, bottom row). The minute details of a unique marine gastropod exoskeleton measuring approximately 8.30 × 5.75 mm were observed within a void feature, and the overlying growth layers on the face side (the surface that grew within the mollusk it formed in) revealed minimal growth arcs. Marine gastropods are known to vary in size, and the class consists of many thousands of species (A. Nutzel., “Larval ecology and morphology in fossil gastropods,” Paleontology, Vol. 57, No. 3, 2014, pp. 479–503). These observations provided enough evidence to make a clear distinction between a shell blister, such as this sample, and a shell blister pearl (“Natural shell blisters and blister pearls: What’s the difference?” GIA Research News, August 26, 2019).
The ultraviolet/visible reflectance spectra showed a prominent feature at around 450 nm and weaker features at 320, 330, 450, and 460 nm proving that the sample’s color was natural and lacked any treatment. Raman analysis using 514 nm laser excitation showed a series of peaks at 158, 186, 204, and 213 cm–1; a weak peak at 280 cm–1; a doublet peak around 701–704 cm–1; and a strong peak at 1085 cm–1. These were indicative of aragonite. The photoluminescence spectra were also consistent with the Raman and displayed high fluorescence and aragonite-related peaks. These results were unexpected given the cellular-looking structure observed through the microscope, as this type of structure usually results in Raman spectra indicative of calcite.
While the lustrous dark color and the cellular-looking structure indicated the host shell was likely a species from the Pinnidae family, it was not clear given the spectral data collected (N. Sturman et al., “Observations on pearls reportedly from the Pinnidae family (pen pearls),” Fall 2014 G&G, pp. 202–215). When the surface structures were compared to photomicrographs of known Pinna species shell from GIA’s Bangkok laboratory (figure 2, C and D), the results showed some similarity. However, Raman spectra indicative of calcite were obtained for the Bangkok research collection samples, which differed from the sample studied here. The Atrina vexillum species may have been responsible for producing the natural shell blister, and this would explain the aragonite-related Raman peaks since this mollusk is known to produce pearls with an aragonitic structure. However, since Atrina species pearls are often nacreous when aragonite is present and the sample in question was non-nacreous, the contradicting data still leaves some doubt as to the true identity of the host. Nevertheless, this example of a shell blister encompassing a gastropod shell represents a noteworthy phenomenon of nature that is rarely encountered. @topic:5


Publish Year: 2019 Title: Possible Natural Abalone Shell Blister Abstract: Figure 1. This intriguing abalone sample, shown in three different orientations, weighed 3.00 ct and measured 10.73 × 8.82 × 6.23 mm. Photo by Diego Sanchez.
An intriguing item was sent by KC Bell to GIA’s Carlsbad laboratory for examination. Mr. Bell stated that it was found among a group of natural abalone pearls off the coast of Southern California in the Pacific Ocean. The sample (figure 1) weighed 3.00 ct, measured 10.73 × 8.82 × 6.23 mm, and was appealing because “pearl” layers appeared to have formed around a piece of rock. However, its natural or cultured origin and the mollusk species that produced it needed to be determined.
The sample consisted of two main components: an opaque dark body and a translucent cap formed of nacreous layers. The main body looked like a stone with a typical angular baroque shape expected of unfashioned natural material. The exposed areas exhibited a bumpy surface texture, and a strong fiber-optic light revealed a dark greenish bodycolor and some black areas of a different composition. Subsequently, Raman spectroscopic analysis with an 830 nm diode laser verified the dark greenish body was composed of a rock-forming feldspar mineral when the spectrum was matched with the RRUFF mineral database (RRUFF-R040129).
The thin layers partially covering the stone displayed vibrant blue, green, and purple-pink hues. At higher magnifications, a fine platelet structure was clearly visible, together with a characteristic underlying botryoidal-like structure that has been observed through the translucent surface layers of many abalone pearls (Fall 2015 Lab Notes, pp. 319–320). Raman analysis of the surface layers using a 514 nm argon-ion laser revealed peaks at 701, 705, and 1085 cm–1, proving the nacre was composed of aragonite. In pearl testing, the higher excitation power of this laser is generally used in the identification of calcium carbonate polymorphs as well as natural pigments or artificial coloring agents. The 830 nm laser is used to obtain spectra in some situations, such as when high fluorescence is encountered with the 514 nm laser.
Energy-dispersive X-ray fluorescence (EDXRF) analysis showed that the nacreous surface layers contained low levels of manganese and confirmed a saltwater origin. Moreover, 221 ppm of iodine was detected, typical of many abalone shells and pearls since abalone is an iodine-rich organism (H.S. Doh and H.J. Park, “Speciation of bio‐available iodine in abalone (Haliotis discus hannai) by high‐performance liquid chromatography hyphenated with inductively coupled plasma‐mass spectrometry using an in vitro method,” Journal of Food Science, Vol. 83, No. 6, 2018, pp. 1579–1587). GIA has often detected iodine in abalone samples examined (Fall 2015 Lab Notes, pp. 319–320). Surface observation and chemical data confirmed that the nacre layers were produced by a univalve abalone gastropod (Haliotis genus), allowing us to confidently identify the mollusk species. Furthermore, EDXRF analysis of the rock surface revealed that it was composed of sodium-rich feldspar.

Figure 2. The overlying nacre tightly conformed to the underlying rock’s surface, and a small opening was visible on the face, exposing the material beneath. A translucent brown layer between the two main components is possibly an organic substance, likely conchiolin. Photomicrograph by Artitaya Homkrajae; field of view 7.19 mm.
Closer examination of a small surface opening on the face of the sample (figure 2) and the edge of the nacre where it did not cover the underlying rock (figure 1, center and right) revealed a tight connection between the two main components. No gas bubbles or other features such as flow lines indicating an artificial bonding agent were observed in the translucent brown layer between them. The brown layer appeared to be an organic substance—likely conchiolin, an essential natural substance secreted by mollusks during the formation of pearls, blisters, and shells. The internal structure revealed by real-time X-ray microradiography (RTX) supported the observational findings that the thin nacreous overgrowth adhered to the rock’s surface in all directions and did not appear to have formed from any culturing process (figure 3).

Figure 3. RTX images of the sample’s face (left) and side (right) revealed that the thin nacre layer conformed very well to the underlying stone’s surface.
Abalone are known to produce natural pearls and are also used commercially to produce cultured shell blisters in order to fashion assembled cultured blister “pearls” (mabe). Shell blisters can form naturally when a foreign object accidentally enters the mollusk’s body and becomes trapped in between the shell’s interior surface and the mantle tissue. If the mollusk survives this experience, the cells within the mantle tissue continue to secrete nacre (commonly biogenic aragonite) to increase the layers and cover the intruder, possibly to ease any discomfort. The intruder eventually becomes a part of the inner shell, resulting in a natural shell blister. Based on this formation mechanism and the gemological evidence obtained, this sample appears to be an unusual natural shell blister in which a small piece of rock acted as the irritant that initiated formation. Since abalone mollusks inhabit rocky areas and attach themselves to rocky surfaces, this scenario is not out of the question. @topic:5


Publish Year: 1985 Title: Altering the Color of Topaz Abstract: The various techniques in use today to alter colorless topaz to produce brown, pink, and most commonly, blue stones are discussed. Special attention is given to the three irradiation sources -gamma rays, high-energy electrons, and neutrons - used to convert the colorless stones to hues in the yellow to brown range and the subsequent heat treatment required in most cases to turn the irradiated stones blue. The blue color produced by irradiation and subsequent heat treatment is stable to light. Currently, no routine gemological tests are available that can definitively determine whether the color of the topaz is natural or the result of treatment. @topic:8


Publish Year: - Title: Iolite Description Abstract: The color of fine-quality iolite can sometimes rival that of sapphire or tanzanite. – Robert Weldon

                      When tanzanite was first discovered, gemologists initially suspected it might be cordierite, a transparent, pleochroic, violet-blue gem known for thousands of years. Today, cordierite (named after geologist Pierre Cordier) is better known by its trade name, iolite, which comes from the Greek word “ios,” meaning “violet.”

Iolite’s strong pleochroism makes the gem tricky to cut for best color. This in turn continues to pose challenges to producers and buyers interested in promoting the attractive yet problematic gem to retailers as an affordable blue-gem alternative.

	In the hands of a skilled cutter, iolite’s beauty can be revealed.
This silicate of aluminum, iron, and magnesium has two distinctive features—a beautiful, violetish blue through slightly violetish blue hue derived from iron and a striking, eye-visible pleochroism. Its pleochroic colors differ with its bodycolor. Iolites that appear violet display light violet, dark violet, and yellow-brown pleochroic colors. Bluish iolites display colorless to yellow, blue-gray, and dark violet pleochroic colors. From some angles, then, a bluish iolite can actually appear completely colorless or yellow, and a violetish iolite can look brown.

Iolites are usually cut as faceted gems, but they are also frequently cut into cabochons.

The size range for a fashioned iolite is anywhere from 1 to 10 carats. Fine iolites over 5 carats are rare.

Iolite falls at 7 to 7.5 on the Mohs hardness scale, but given that it has distinct cleavage in one direction, its toughness is only fair. This makes iolite vulnerable to breakage when set in a ring or other setting exposed to rough daily wear.

Unlike tanzanite, iolite is rarely treated. Fine iolite comes by its beautiful blues and violets naturally. Its freedom from enhancement other than normal cutting and polishing is a selling point when customers consider that most blue gems, from inexpensive blue topaz to fine sapphire, receive routine treatment of one type or another.

	Iolite is not routinely treated, which is an attractive feature for some consumers. – Robert Weldon, courtesy Max Faulkner
Of course, not all iolite shows fine color. Some gems can look grayish or nearly colorless. If the trade were able to treat these less desirable iolites to produce a better, more salable color, it would. However, iolite’s chemistry won’t allow it. Interestingly, the deep blues of some iolites are thought to have the same cause (an iron-titanium charge transfer) as the blue in sapphire. Unlike sapphire, however, iolite can’t be heat-treated to intensify its blue color because its low melting point won’t tolerate the high temperatures to which corundum is routinely subjected.

Because iolite is fairly hard it’s often found in alluvial deposits. In addition to the gem gravels of Sri Lanka, iolite occurs in several areas of Africa, including Kenya and central Tanzania. Other iolite source countries include India, Brazil, and Norway. A significant iolite deposit was discovered in Madagascar in 1994.

Iolite has yet to catch on with retailers as dramatically as tanzanite did in the 1970s and 1980s. Why not? Experts believe that jewelry designers and retailers have yet to see a consistent enough supply of iolite in uniform fine quality to feel confident in ordering a broad and deep selection of the material for their workshops and stores. @topic:1


Publish Year: 2024 Title: Cummingtonite Needles Encased by Quartz in a Rhodonite Abstract: Figure 1. A rare 7.38 ct orangy red rhodonite. Photo by Chunyan Wang.

Figure 2. Many long tube inclusions were observed in the rhodonite sample. Photomicrograph by Chunyan Wang; field of view 2.36 mm.
Recently, the authors examined a 7.38 ct gem-quality rhodonite exhibiting a vivid orangy red color and good transparency (figure 1). Gemological testing, Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy, and Raman spectroscopy identified it as rhodonite. This gemstone had a refractive index of 1.733–1.747 and specific gravity of 3.46. Most rhodonite is opaque and is used as an ornamental stone, and transparent facet-grade material is very rare. Microscopic observation revealed an abundance of long, curved needles scattered randomly throughout the gem host (figure 2), consistent with previous studies. Occasional fluid inclusions were also seen.
A previous publication suggests that these curved needles are cummingtonite, an amphibole group mineral with a chemical formula of (Mg, Fe2+)2(Mg,Fe2+)5Si8O22(OH)2 (P. Leverett et al., “Ca-Mg-Fe-rich rhodonite from the Morro da Mina mine, Conselheiro Lafaiete, Minas Gerais, Brazil,” Mineralogical Record, Vol. 39, 2008, pp. 125–130). Raman spectroscopy confirmed the identity of one needle as cummingtonite, displaying characteristic peaks at 190, 667, and 1036 cm–1 when the laser beam was focused on the center of it. However, several new peaks appeared when the laser beam moved to the boundary between the needle and the rhodonite, including a 208 cm–1 peak that matched with quartz. Such a finding is new to the authors, since needle inclusions encased in another mineral have rarely been reported. To further investigate this finding, more than 10 points were selected, and the results identified quartz between the cummingtonite needle and the rhodonite host. All the tested Raman spectra were compared to the Raman online database.

Figure 3. The Raman spectra of cummingtonite, quartz, and rhodonite. While the long tube was identified as cummingtonite, quartz was detected between the tube and the rhodonite host. Spectra are offset vertically for clarity.

Figure 4. 3D false-color Raman mapping of one of the encased needle inclusions with the surrounding host. The rectangle shows the mapping area. The blue area indicates the existence of the rhodonite host, the green area the quartz, and the red area indicates the cummingtonite.
To further explore the relationship between rhodonite, quartz, and cummingtonite needles, a 3D Raman map was performed on a selected area of 3 × 14 × 12 μm with a step size of 2 μm. After running for 17.25 hours, more than 500 spectra were recorded. Three feature peaks were selected for image reconstruction: 3658 cm–1 for cummingtonite, 113 cm–1 for rhodonite, and 208 cm–1 for quartz (figure 3). Due to the similarity between the Raman spectra of cummingtonite and rhodonite, the main peaks were not chosen for mapping. The OH-related peak at 3658 cm–1 was only observed in cummingtonite, enabling us to distinguish the two minerals. The Raman mapping image is shown in figure 4, with blue indicating the host, green for quartz, and red for cummingtonite. These images revealed that the detection of quartz between rhodonite and cummingtonite was not by accident but indicated a considerable presence of quartz inclusions. Previous studies have reported quartz as an isolated and random mineral inclusion in rhodonite from Australia (e.g., P. Millsteed et al., “Inclusions in transparent gem rhodonite from Broken Hill, New South Wales, Australia,” Fall 2005 G&G, pp. 246–254). Based on our observation of the position of the quartz, we speculate that it may be the product of the decomposition of cummingtonite under certain temperatures and pressures.
This intricate inclusion association pattern may offer a new perspective on the origin of curved needles in rhodonite. This case also highlights the usefulness of Raman mapping as a tool for nondestructive analysis of inclusions. @topic:1


Publish Year: 2024 Title: New High-Quality Rainbow Moonstone from Madagascar Abstract: A 9.30 ct oval cut and a 4.12 ct triangular cut of a new type of moonstone from Madagascar featuring an orange flash effect. Photo by Robert Weldon; courtesy of Dudley Blauwet Gems.
Moonstone, a perennial favorite in Tucson, was offered both as loose stones and in jewelry throughout the shows. This year, a new type of transparent moonstone from Andilamena in the Alaotra-Mangoro region of northeastern Madagascar displayed a distinct orange flash effect in addition to strong blue adularescence. Moonstone is normally cut en cabochon, but the two moonstones in the figure above were faceted because of their high transparency and to better display the orange flash.
Blue moonstone is a phenomenal gemstone variety of orthoclase, a mineral belonging to the alkali feldspar group. This potassium aluminum silicate gem is transparent to translucent, with a white bodycolor and blue adularescence. The blue “moonlight” is caused by light interference from moonstone’s alternating microscopic layers of albite and orthoclase. Rainbow moonstone, which shows flashes of various colors that can include blue, is also a feldspar mineral but belongs to the plagioclase group and falls into the calcium-rich labradorite variety. This new material was confirmed to be plagioclase feldspar and within the labradorite variety by Bear Williams (Stone Group Laboratories, Jefferson City, Missouri) using Raman spectroscopy, making this a high-quality rainbow moonstone.
This new material was reportedly mined in 2023, and the initial supply of several kilograms of rough sold out at extraordinarily high per-carat prices. Hopefully more of this intriguing material will reach the marketplace soon. @topic:2


Publish Year: 2017 Title: “Boldly Go” with a Southwest-Inspired Starship Enterprise Abstract: This handmade piece fuses Southwestern style and its characteristic inlay techniques with a science fiction icon: the Starship Enterprise from Star Trek. Photo by Kevin Schumacher; courtesy David R. Freedland Jr. Designs.

	At the Pueblo (Riverpark Inn) show, David Freedland (David R. Freedland Jr. Designs, Tucson) showed us some unusual pieces that stood out at his booth. Normally, you expect Southwest-style jewelry to embrace nature or Native American influences for pieces featuring detailed inlays of Arizona turquoise and other materials. Although Freedland had these in abundance, what really caught our eye was this handmade, sterling-silver rendition of the Starship Enterprise from the cult science fiction television series Star Trek. The piece measures 6.5 cm in length and stands 4.5 cm high. It rests on a sterling silver stand inlaid with Arizona turquoise (see above).

	The iconic starship’s saucer section is also inlaid with Arizona turquoise and a concentric band of purple spiny oyster centered on a lab-grown white opal representing the bridge. Other oval lab-grown opal cabochons grace the ends of the engine nacelles, and a turquoise cabochon represents the ship’s shuttle bay. The starship portion has a loop and can be detached and worn as a pendant, if desired. Freedland also has another handmade starship available: the “Reliant” from the 1982 motion picture Star Trek II: The Wrath of Khan along with an array of cyberpunk—or steampunk—ray guns that are redolent of classic U.S. science fiction films of the 1950s.

	Freedland told us there’s no other reason behind the considerable time and effort required to hand fabricate these unique pieces except that he’s always liked the idea of space and the unknown—“what’s out there,” as he says. And he thought they would be a lot of fun to make. We hope these designs live long and prosper. @topic:6


Publish Year: - Title: Plan a Path to Success Abstract: Kara Erickson, sales manager for Tiffany & Co. in Pasadena, California, at GIA's 2009 Jewelry Career Fair in Carlsbad. Photo by Kevin Schumacher/GIA

                      “Success means something different for everyone,” said Kara Erickson, a 1993 GIA graduate and sales manager for Tiffany & Co. in Pasadena, California, who credits most of her success to her education and many industry mentors. “Recently I’ve realized that success is not status or a title, but a series of choices, hard work and achievements. You can sit around and desire success all day or you can actually do something about it.”

She shared five key concepts she used to build her career with attendees of the 2009 Career Fair in Carlsbad:

1. Create your vision. “Have a vision of your career and what you want to do and what you want to be. You’ll get lost without a map.”

2. Stay focused. You may find yourself on a winding career path, but take advantage of those curves. This path “may lead you to various forks in the road, but it is up to you to make them into opportunities.”

3. Take action. “If you say you are going to do something, do it, follow through. Actions speak louder than words.”

4. Be prepared to make sacrifices. Find ways to overcome obstacles. “Prove to yourself and others that you are ready, willing and able to grow in your career.”

5. Get support. The jewelry industry is a very close-knit community. “The people who make up the industry were once in your shoes.”

Erickson also offered encouragement to the attendees. “Employers are looking for people like you. Not just because you are educated in gems and jewelry, but because you can reinvent the jewelry industry. Everything is at your fingertips. You have already made the choice to be successful and you are in charge of your career.” @topic:12


Publish Year: 1997 Title: Applications of Geophysics in Gemstone Exploration Abstract: Advances in geophysical technology and computer imaging now permit mapping of geologic features at various depths beneath the Earth’s surface in more detail than ever before. Geophysical methods, which for some years have been used to explore for diamonds (and many other minerals), also hold promise as important tools in both exploration for new colored stone deposits and assessment of known deposits. Particularly exciting are the use of seismic-reflection and radar-imaging techniques for high-resolution mapping of near-surface pegmatites, veins, metamorphic layering in crystalline rocks, and alluvial deposits in sedimentary rocks. These techniques can produce images of regions only a few centimeters to a few meters in size down to several meters to tens of meters below the surface. Thus, it is now possible to locate directly some buried structures containing gem deposits. @topic:8