Publish Year: - Title: Las Vegas 2015: Selective Demand Buoys a Slow Season Abstract: The 2015 JCK Las Vegas show was deemed a success by an industry that needed some good news after very disappointing sales in Hong Kong and Basel. Photo by Russell Shor/GIA

                      Business at the 2015 JCK Show in Las Vegas was good if you had exactly the right goods at the right price. Whether it was diamonds, colored stones or designer jewelry, buyers − which included major retailers, jewelry manufacturers and other dealers − came with very specific wants in mind and stuck to them. The show was deemed a success by an industry that needed some good news after very disappointing sales in Hong Kong and Basel.

Exhibitors at the accompanying Couture and Luxury shows generally outperform the other sections of the show and this year was no exception. One reason is that their retail clients – generally higher-end independents – have a strong base of return customers who collect pieces by many of these designers, so in a sense, their business is built-in.

Designer jewelry sold well throughout all of the shows if it had a high-end, one-of-a-kind look. At Couture, the pieces tended toward understated luxury with an emphasis on design instead of high gem content. The jewels tended to be showier at the Luxury show; designers favored frilly, curvy lines and lots of small gemstones set to create a larger look, such as blossom motifs with a lot of negative space, which made it possible for them to use less metal. In the sub-$1,000 market, bold, colorful looks were in; designers employed lower-priced color gems and beads like citrine and blue topaz and even non-gem material set into 14k gold or vermeil.

Diamond demand centered on excellent cut and medium-quality one- to two-carat stones. There was some demand for larger diamonds, but buyers were extremely selective. While buyers did roam the JCK show’s diamond pavilion and Luxury area, there were simply too few of them – the high U.S. dollar kept most Asians and Europeans away – to satisfy all of the exhibitors.

“People were buying just what they needed for the immediate future,” said one exhibitor who noted that buyers were also holding out in hopes that polished prices would decline over the summer.

Retailers have been very cautious about sales prospects for the second half of the year because jewelry demand has been slowing despite the improving economy and employment market in the U.S. In addition, banks have curtailed many of the generous memo programs that had made it possible for retailers to order large numbers of diamonds without payment due until the beginning of the following year.

Banks blame memo programs for some of the cash flow difficulties the industry is facing today and, quite often, the goods end up in dispute if the retailer or dealer files for bankruptcy.

Colored stone demand was equally selective.

A number of exhibitors at the American Gem Trade Association show that ran concurrently with JCK said the industry was still trying to come to grips with the decline of the Chinese market. Prices had soared for ruby and sapphire during the past five years, they explained, because Chinese dealers often outbid western dealers for the top goods – and even medium qualities. Now, the Chinese are not buying at the same level or are making lowball offers. Most of the major primary dealers in gem centers, however, are still holding out for those high prices. Many dealers and buyers believe prices are too high and this has brought much of the trade to a standstill and sent buyers searching for substitutes.

Buyers at the AGTA show were looking for red spinel as a much more affordable substitute for ruby and tsavorite as a substitute for emerald. Sellers of beads and lower-priced gems generally did well as retailers strove to keep prices affordable for their middle- and lower-market customers.

The JCK Show also hosted De Beers’ CEO Philippe Mellier who, in an address, acknowledged the diamond industry’s current difficulties, but said the long-term prospects would see solid growth, particularly in the U.S.

“No one gets the glamor of diamonds quite like the American consumer,” Mellier said, adding that its share of market was again increasing against newer markets like China and India.

An increase in the number of affluent U.S households (earning over $100,000 yearly), along with tourists from newer markets like China, will drive the growth of U.S. diamond jewelry sales.

Mellier noted that diamond mine production will begin to decline at the end of the decade and that, while De Beers is taking measures to lengthen the life of its resources, there are few promising finds on the horizon – only 60 out of 7,000 known kimberlites have been economically viable to mine.

Financial transparency and responsible sourcing are growing in importance, the first to regulators, the second to millennial consumers, while consumer confidence remains an on-going concern as treatments proliferate and synthetics enter the market, Mellier told the audience.

By the show’s closing, business proved strong enough to sustain diamond and gemstone dealers and offer a sense that the fall quarter may bring an upturn. @topic:7


Publish Year: - Title: Emerald Care and Cleaning Guide Abstract: Emeralds set in jewelry have lasted for centuries. With the proper care, the emeralds in today’s jewelry will do the same. Courtesy Color Masters.

Hardness and toughness
Gem and mineral hardness is measured on the Mohs scale. The numbers are based on the relative ease or difficulty with which one mineral can be scratched by another. But the Mohs scale is deceptive. The steps between the minerals are not evenly spaced. For example, diamond is only one number away, but it’s many times harder than gems in the corundum family.

Emerald is 7.5 to 8 on the Mohs scale and has fair to good toughness, making it a stone that requires more care in wearing than ruby or sapphire. Even so, emeralds are beautiful stones for all types of jewelry and with proper care will last for generations.

	Emerald rates a 7.5 to 8 on the Mohs hardness scale.
Stability
Heat can damage emeralds, especially by extending existing fractures. Light and chemicals can cause the oils, resins, and polymers used to fill surface-reaching fractures to alter in appearance or deteriorate.

Cleaning
Some estimates state that 90 percent or more of emeralds are fracture-filled. Since the great majority of fashioned natural emeralds contain filled fractures, it’s risky to clean them ultrasonically or with steam. Ultrasonic vibrations can weaken already-fractured stones, and hot steam can cause oil or unhardened resin to sweat out of fractures. Using warm, soapy water coupled with gentle scrubbing is the safest way to clean emeralds. @topic:8


Publish Year: - Title: Sunstone Care and Cleaning Abstract: With proper care, sunstone can provide a lifetime of jewelry-wearing pleasure. – Mike Havstad

Hardness and Toughness
Gem and mineral hardness is measured on the Mohs scale. The numbers are based on the relative ease or difficulty with which one mineral can be scratched by another. But the Mohs scale is deceptive. The steps between the minerals are not evenly spaced. For example, diamond is only one number away, but it’s many times harder than gems in the corundum family.

Feldspars, including sunstone, share two traits that affect their durability and make them vulnerable to damage. These are softness—at 6.5 to 7.2 on the Mohs scale—and cleavage in two directions, which gives sunstone a Poor toughness rating.

When sunstone is mounted in a setting that protects it, however, it’s an excellent choice for jewelry. Protective settings include pendants, earrings, and pins rather than rings, which are more likely to receive knocks and bumps.

	Sunstone’s hardness falls between 6.5 and 7.2 on the Mohs hardness scale.
Stability
Exposure to heat is not recommended for sunstone, but its color is stable when exposed to light and won’t fade.

Cleaning
Warm, soapy water is always a safe sunstone cleaning method. Ultrasonic and steam cleaners should be avoided. Feldspars are rapidly attacked by hydrochloric acid, so cleaning products containing bleach should also be avoided.
Rarely, sunstone might be fracture filled. These stones should only be cleaned with warm, soapy water. @topic:8


Publish Year: - Title: Rose Quartz Care and Cleaning Abstract: Rose quartz is a durable gemstone. With proper care, it will provide a lifetime of jewelry-wearing enjoyment. - Photo by Robert Weldon, © GIA

                      Gem and mineral hardness is measured on the Mohs scale. The numbers are based on the relative ease or difficulty with which one mineral can be scratched by another. But the Mohs scale is deceptive. The steps between the minerals are not evenly spaced. For example, diamond is only one number away, but it’s many times harder than gems in the corundum family. With a Mohs hardness of 7, rose quartz is a gem that can provide a lifetime of wearing pleasure.

	Rose quartz ranks 7 on the Mohs scale of hardness.
Stability
Rose quartz is generally stable when exposed to light and heat.

Cleaning
Warm, soapy water is always a safe method for cleaning rose quartz. Cleaning with ultrasonic and steam cleaners should be avoided.

Treatment
Rose quartz is occasionally treated with radiation to intensify its color. @topic:8


Publish Year: - Title: Morganite Care and Cleaning Abstract: Morganite is a durable gemstone. With proper care, it will provide a lifetime of jewelry-wearing enjoyment. -Courtesy of The Greenwood Group.

                      Gem and mineral hardness is measured on the Mohs scale. The numbers are based on the relative ease or difficulty with which one mineral can be scratched by another. But the Mohs scale is deceptive. The steps between the minerals are not evenly spaced. For example, diamond is only one number away, but it’s many times harder than gems in the corundum family. Morganite is 7.5 to 8 on the Mohs scale, so it is a durable gemstone for jewelry as long as it is treated with care to protect it against scratching and hard knocks.

	Morganite rates a 7.5 to 8 on the Mohs hardness scale.

Stability
Heat exposure is not recommended for morganite, but under light exposure, its color is stable and won’t fade. Morganite can be attacked by hydrofluoric acid.

Cleaning
Warm, soapy water is always a safe cleaning method for morganite. Cleaning by ultrasonic and steam cleaners is usually safe, unless the stone has liquid inclusions or fractures.
Rarely, morganite might be fracture filled. These stones should only be cleaned with warm, soapy water.

Fracture-filling @topic:8


Publish Year: - Title: Kunzite Care and Cleaning Abstract: With proper care, kunzite jewelry will provide a lifetime of beautiful adornment. - Courtesy Loretta Castoro Signature Collection

Hardness and Toughness
Gem and mineral hardness is measured on the Mohs scale. The numbers are based on the relative ease or difficulty with which one mineral can be scratched by another. But the Mohs scale is deceptive. The steps between the minerals are not evenly spaced. For example, diamond is only one number away, but it’s many times harder than gems in the corundum family.

	Kunzite rates 6.5 to 7 on the Mohs hardness scale.
Because it has perfect cleavage in two directions, kunzite requires special care during cutting, polishing, and mounting. It’s not very tough, so a hard blow might split it, and extreme pressure or sharp temperature changes might cause it to break. To reduce the risk of breakage, jewelers prefer to set valuable kunzite gems in protective mountings or use them in pieces that aren’t exposed to too much wear, like pendants and pins.

Kunzite rates 6.5 to 7 on the Mohs hardness scale. Its toughness rating is poor due to its cleavage.

Stability
High heat or sudden temperature changes can cause breaks in kunzite. The gem’s color can fade with prolonged exposure to heat or intense light.

Cleaning
It’s important to avoid steam or ultrasound for cleaning kunzite: Warm, soapy water works best.

	A safe way to clean kunzite jewelry is to use lukewarm water with mild soap and a toothbrush. - Eric Welch
Treatment and Durability Considerations
Kunzite might be irradiated and then heated to enhance its color. The color of irradiated, heated kunzite can fade with exposure to heat and light, just as it does in naturally colored kunzite.

Besides protecting it from heat and light, kunzite should be protected as much as possible from sharp blows that can cause breakage along cleavage planes. @topic:8


Publish Year: - Title: Lapis Lazuli Care and Cleaning Abstract: With proper care, lapis lazuli can provide a lifetime of jewelry-wearing enjoyment. - Dr. Edward J. Gübelin

                      Gem and mineral hardness is measured on the Mohs scale. The numbers are based on the relative ease or difficulty with which one mineral can be scratched by another. But the Mohs scale is deceptive. The steps between the minerals are not evenly spaced. For example, diamond is only one number away, but it’s many times harder than gems in the corundum family.

Lapis is between 5 and 6 on the Mohs scale, depending on its composition. With care, lapis jewelry and carvings can delight their owners for generations. Its toughness is considered Fair.

	Lapis lazuli’s hardness ranks between 5 and 6 on the Mohs hardness scale.

Stability
The dye used in some lapis can come off if it’s rubbed with acetone (nail polish remover) or denatured alcohol, so it’s sometimes sealed with wax or plastic. Wax sealers can deteriorate when they’re exposed to heat or solvents.

Lapis that hasn’t been dyed might be impregnated with wax or oil to improve its color and luster. These treatments have only fair stability, and a gemologist can detect them.

Cleaning
Warm, soapy water is the safest way to clean lapis lazuli. It’s best to test a small, inconspicuous area first, because some dye treatments are not stable. @topic:2


Publish Year: - Title: Jade Care and Cleaning Guide Abstract: Jadeite is 6.5 to 7, and nephrite is 6 to 6.5 on the Mohs hardness scale.

Hardness and toughness
Gem and mineral hardness is measured on the Mohs scale. The numbers are based on the relative ease or difficulty with which one mineral can be scratched by another. But the Mohs scale is deceptive. The steps between the minerals are not evenly spaced. For example, diamond is only one number away, but it’s many times harder than gems in the corundum family.

Jadeite is 6.5 to 7 and nephrite is 6 to 6.5 on the Mohs hardness scale, so some care should be taken to avoid scratches. However, both of these gemstones have exceptional toughness and are very resistant to breaking or chipping.

Stability
Heat from a jeweler’s torch can harm jade. Jade is stable to light, and it can be affected by warm acids.

Cleaning
Ultrasonic cleaners and steam cleaners are safe for untreated jade. But jade might be treated by dyeing, bleaching and impregnation, coatings, or heat treatment, so warm, soapy water is always a safe choice. @topic:9


Publish Year: - Title: Iolite Care and Cleaning Abstract: With proper care, iolite jewelry will provide a lifetime of beautiful adornment. – Robert Weldon

Hardness and Toughness
Gem and mineral hardness is measured on the Mohs scale. The numbers are based on the relative ease or difficulty with which one mineral can be scratched by another. But the Mohs scale is deceptive. The steps between the minerals are not evenly spaced. For example, diamond is only one number away, but it’s many times harder than gems in the corundum family.

	Iolite rates 7 to 7.5 on the Mohs hardness scale.
Because it has perfect cleavage in one direction, iolite requires special care during cutting, polishing, and mounting. It’s not very tough, so a hard blow might split it, and extreme pressure or sharp temperature changes might cause it to break. To reduce the risk of breakage, jewelers prefer to set iolite gems in protective mountings or use them in pieces that aren’t exposed to too much wear, like pendants and earrings.

Stability
High heat or sudden temperature changes can cause breaks in iolite. The gem’s color is stable.

Cleaning
It’s important to avoid steam or ultrasound for cleaning iolite: Warm, soapy water works best.

	A safe way to clean iolite jewelry is to use lukewarm water with mild soap and a toothbrush. - Eric Welch
Treatment and Durability Considerations
Iolite is not typically treated so coatings and dyes are not generally a concern with this gem.

Iolite should be protected as much as possible from sharp blows that can cause breakage along cleavage planes. @topic:8


Publish Year: - Title: Citrine Care and Cleaning Abstract: With proper care, citrine is a beautiful and versatile gemstone for jewelry use. – Robert Weldon

                      Gem and mineral hardness is measured on the Mohs scale. The numbers are based on the relative ease or difficulty with which one mineral can be scratched by another. But the Mohs scale is deceptive. The steps between the minerals are not evenly spaced. For example, diamond is only one number away, but it’s many times harder than gems in the corundum family.

Common substances like sand and dust are composed mostly of quartz, the mineral species that includes the variety citrine. So, while citrine is a great gemstone for use in jewelry, it should be treated with the proper care to prevent scratching and other damage.

Citrine rates a 7 on the Mohs scale and has good toughness, so it is suitable for all jewelry types. This includes rings as long as the wearer understands its limited hardness.

	Citrine rates a 7 on the Mohs hardness scale. This means it’s durable for jewelry as
	long as proper precautions are followed to prevent scratching.
Stability
Abrupt temperature changes can cause citrine to fracture. Some citrine color can fade with prolonged exposure to intense light. Citrine can also be damaged by hydrofluoric acid, ammonium fluoride, and alkaline solutions.

Cleaning
Citrine can be safely cleaned with warm, soapy water. Ultrasonic cleaners are usually safe except in the rare instances where a stone is dyed or treated by fracture filling. Steam cleaning is not recommended, as citrine should not be subjected to heat. @topic:8


Publish Year: - Title: Ametrine Care and Cleaning Abstract: The best ametrines show distinct areas of orangy yellow and purple. These colors are featured in this graceful cut design. Photo by Lydia Dyer, © John Dyer & Co., gem courtesy John Dyer & Co.

Hardness and toughness
Gem and mineral hardness is measured on the Mohs scale. The numbers are based on the relative ease or difficulty with which one mineral can be scratched by another. But the Mohs scale is deceptive. The steps between the minerals are not evenly spaced. For example, diamond is only one number away, but it’s many times harder than gems in the corundum family.

Common substances like sand and dust are composed mostly of quartz, the mineral species that includes ametrine. So, while ametrine is a great gemstone for use in jewelry, it should be treated with the proper care to prevent scratching and other damage.

Like amethyst and citrine, ametrine rates a 7 on the Mohs scale and has good toughness, so it is suitable for all jewelry types. This includes rings as long as the wearer understands the limits of its hardness and follows proper precautions to prevent scratching.

	Ametrine’s hardness ranks a 7 on the Mohs hardness scale. Illustration by Peter Johnston, © GIA
Stability
Abrupt temperature changes can cause ametrine to fracture. Some ametrine colors can fade with prolonged exposure to intense light. Ametrine can also be damaged by hydrofluoric acid, ammonium fluoride, and alkaline solutions.

Cleaning
Ametrine can be safely cleaned with warm, soapy water. Ultrasonic cleaners are usually safe except in the rare instances where a stone is dyed or treated by fracture filling. Steam cleaning is not recommended, and ametrine should not be exposed to heat.

	With proper care, ametrine’s beauty will enhance all types of jewelry and provide years of wearing enjoyment. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA, courtesy Minerales y Metales del Oriente, Bolivia, SA. @topic:3


Publish Year: - Title: Susan Jacques’ Top 20 Traits to be Successful in Retail Abstract: Susan Jacques, pictured at GIA's Carlsbad World Headquarters in 2014, shared her tips for success in the retail industry at GIA's mini Jewelry Career Fair in 2010. Photo by Kevin Schumacher/GIA

                      Susan Jacques spent more than 30 years in retail before becoming president and CEO of GIA in January 2014. She began her career at Borsheims in 1982, after earning her GG from GIA, and was appointed president and CEO in 1994.

She offered these traits for success during a panel discussion at GIA’s mini Jewelry Career Fair held on June 6, 2010 in Las Vegas:

PASSION: Warren Buffett says: “Tap dance to work.” Love what you do every day! Have it show.

LOYALTY: Remember who signs your pay check -- be loyal to your company. If you are unhappy and your job is not what you want to do, leave and find your passion elsewhere.

RESPECT: Know everyone in the company by name; show the same respect regardless of titles and treat people as you wish to be treated.

COMMITMENT: To your company, your job, your teammates, your success.

 DEDICATION:  Give 110 percent every day to ensure your and your company’s success.

 HONESTY:  Be a person of your word, always be honest and ethical in everything you do.

 INTEGRIT Y: Have the  highest standards of integrity, personally and professionally. Earn your stellar reputation and guard it with every action that you take and decision that you make.

TRUSTWORTHINESS: Trust is essential in our industry and in your company.  Be known for your trustworthiness.

TEAM PLAYER: Work well with others, be supportive and helpful. There is no I in TEAM! No prima donnas!

INITIATIVE: Don’t wait to be asked, take initiative, see the global picture.

CONFIDENTIALITY: NEVER breach confidentiality, what happens at X or with x stays there or between you.

DRIVE: Have the personal drive to succeed, do your best, set high goals and strive to exceed them.

EXCELLENCE: Always strive to exceed expectations and excel at what you do.

ATTITUDE: Keep a positive, optimistic, friendly, professional attitude EVERY day.

DETERMINATION: Be determined to succeed and be the best you can be and give every task your best effort.

FOCUSED: Focus on your goals and your ability to exceed customer expectations with every transaction.

MULTI-TASK: Learn to do many things simultaneously and excellently. Retail seldom allows you the ability to finish one thing before moving on to the next.  Be flexible.

EMPATHY: Be empathetic to fellow associates and customers. LISTEN to what they say.

CONFIDENCE: Exude self-confidence and believe in yourself and your ability to succeed.

KNOWLEDGE: Constantly learn and share your knowledge. It’s important to stay up to date on industry news, changes in treatments, product knowledge, social responsibility and sustainability. Stay in touch with GIA and continue to grow through learning! @topic:12


Publish Year: - Title: Make the Most of Opportunities Abstract: Michael O'Connor shared his experiences and offered tips for success in the industry during the opening panel at GIA's Carlsbad Career Fair in 2009. Photo by Kevin Schumacher/GIA

                      Michael O’Connor, a jewelry and style expert known as the “King of Bling” at Hollywood’s red carpet events, offered this advice the 2009 Career Fair in Carlsbad.

Seize the opportunity. “I think all of us are presented with opportunities in our life we have to seize in order to get ahead,” he said. “Sometimes those opportunities are not really presenting them themselves as opportunities,” but as obstacles you need to take advantage of

He recalled his own experiences in the industry as an example: stumbling into his first job in a jewelry store while on an errand for his father, then moving from jewelry designer to merchandiser and marketer for one of the largest bridal jewelry manufacturers in the country.

Soon after, his boss wanted to get the brand on celebrities and have it talked about it on TV and O’Connor found himself in front of the camera doing more and more red carpet events because, he said, that’s what people wanted to hear about.

He said he gets the celebrity to talk about jewelry by saying, “You look great tonight. Close your eyes. If you can take anything home tonight (because I know this is all going back tomorrow), what is it going to be?”

It’s always about the jewelry, he said. “The jewelry is what America wants to hear about. They don’t want to hear about another red chiffon gown. They want to hear about the million dollar necklace. They want to hear about the diamonds, the rubies and the gemstones. They want to hear about the metal they are set in. That’s what really provides glamour to these people.”

O’Connor also had advice for people who want to get their jewelry on celebrities. “It’s a triad,” he said. “You’ve got to have the right product, you have to do a lot of hard work and you have to seize the opportunities that present themselves.”

“All of these opportunities are there for you to take,” he said. “They don’t always have to be opportunities that you’re going to know 100 percent about. Don’t be afraid to take a leap of faith.”

	O'Connor also offered personalized advice to job seekers during Career Fair's one-on-one coaching sessions. Photo by Kevin Schumacher/GIA @topic:12


Publish Year: 2006 Title: Winter 2006 G&G Book Reviews Abstract: “Agates: Treasures of the Earth”
By Roger Pabian with Brian Jackson, Peter Tandy, and John Cromartie, 184 pp., illus., publ. by Firefly Books, Buffalo, NY, 2006. US$35.00

“Bling Bling: Hip Hop’s Crown Jewels”
By Minya Oh, 208 pp., illus., publ. by Wenner Books, New York, 2005. US$27.50

“Masterpieces of French Jewelry from American Collections”
By Judith Price, 144 pp., illus., publ. by Running Press, Philadelphia, PA, 2006. US$29.95

“The Jeweler’s Directory of Gemstones”
By Judith Crowe, 176 pp., illus., publ. by Firefly Books, Buffalo, NY, 2006. US$29.95

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @topic:6


Publish Year: 2006 Title: Spring 2006 G&G Book Reviews Abstract: “Photoatlas of Inclusions in Gemstones, Volume 2”
By E. J. Gübelin and J. I. Koivula, 829 pp., illus., hardcover, publ. by Opinio Verlag, Basel, Switzerland. US$269.50

“Schmuck Jewellery 1840–1940: Highlights Schmuckmuseum Pforzheim”
By Fritz Falk, 176 pp., 206 illus., hardcover, publ. by Arnoldsche Art Publishers, Stuttgart, 2004. US$60.00

“Working with Gemstones: A Bench Jeweler’s Guide”
By Arthur Anton Skuratowicz and Julie Nash, 128 pp., illus., publ. by MJSA/AJM Press, Providence, RI, 2005. US$34.95

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @topic:6


Publish Year: 2001 Title: “Voices of the Earth”: Transcending the Traditional in Lapidary Arts Abstract: Over the last 20 years, gemstone artists have demonstrated growing skill and variety. The diversity in their finished products comes not only from their unique artistic visions, but also from their ability to alter traditional tools or techniques. In the process, they are changing the way we define gemstones and jewelry. In a collection of 20 jewels entitled “Voices of the Earth,” scheduled for exhibit at the Carnegie Museum of Natural History in Pittsburgh, jewelry designer Paula Crevoshay showcases the work of some of North America’s leading lapidaries. @topic:6


Publish Year: 2001 Title: Hydrothermal Synthetic Red Beryl from the Institute of Crystallography, Moscow Abstract: Hydrothermal synthetic red beryl has been produced for jewelry applications by the Institute of Crystallography and an affiliated company, Emcom Ltd., both in Moscow. Diagnostic identification features include: a tabular crystal morphology, chevron-like and subparallel or slightly wavy internal growth zoning, sharp absorption bands at approximately 530, 545, 560, 570, and 590 nm due to Co2+, water-related absorption bands between 4200 and 3200 cm-1 in the infrared spectrum, and the presence of Co and Ni peaks in EDXRF spectra. @topic:3


Publish Year: 2000 Title: Gemstone Enhancements and Detection in the 1990s Abstract: Gemstone enhancements and their disclosure became the most important gemological issue for the jewelry trade in the 1990s. Growing public awareness of treatments and the greater use of sophisticated technology to enhance the color and/or apparent clarity of gem materials brought to the forefront the need to maintain (or in some cases regain) the consumer confidence that is so vital to this industry. The treatments with the greatest impact were those that affected the gems that were commercially most important: heat and diffusion treatment of ruby and sapphire, “oiling” of emeralds, and fracture filling of diamonds. At the end of the decade, the decolorization of diamonds by high pressure and high temperature posed one of the greatest identification challenges ever faced by gemologists worldwide. Yet most other gem materials were also subjected to enhancements—ranging from traditional processes as with quench-crackled quartz to novel “impregnation” techniques such as the Zachery treatment of turquoise. This article discusses the treatments that were new or prominent during the ‘90s and suggests methods for their detection. @topic:8


Publish Year: - Title: Design in the Fast Lane Abstract: Sports cars. Motorcycles. Men’s jewelry. An odd group at first glance, but take a closer look and you’ll see that they share common design elements: sleek lines, polished metal, matte black and fire-engine red color palettes, and more. That’s not surprising, as these design choices project status, power, and affluence – qualities likely to appeal to all.

Cross-pollination of design ideas between the automotive and jewelry industries is nothing new. Porsche has a jewelry division that makes cufflinks, necklaces, and earrings. Ferrari makes cufflinks featuring its iconic rearing horse. In May 2013, Jewel-Craft Inc. introduced the Insignia Collection – a jewelry collection based on the five most marketable drives of NASCAR. Pieces include steering wheel earrings and key chains in the shape of racing helmets.

To celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Ford Mustang, some 49 companies used the car’s logo on watches, cologne, commemorative Mustang leather jackets, nail polish, video games, die-cast models, apparel, and a number of other products, according to an April 2013 web article on Marketing Daily. Breitling took the idea a step further: it partnered with Bentley to make watches that feature the automaker’s iconic winged logo.

	Car design has a gravitational pull that extends far from the parking lot, influencing office dress and evening wear. Now that men are wearing more accessories, it’s natural to see car motifs showing up in jewelry design.

		McKenzie Santimer, Exhibit Developer, GIA Museum

Jewelry designers use a variety of techniques to capture the sleek beauty and raw power of car design. Making a piece often starts with drawing basic sketches, which are then migrated into computer-aided design (CAD) software. Using 3D CAD software is similar to making a clay model of a car, and allows members of the design team to provide feedback easily.

"GIA's Jewelry Design & Technology program incorporates a similar design concept. Students make rough sketches of their ideas. They then create the design in CAD. This lets them make realistic, full-color renderings, and to see the piece from multiple viewpoints. Students then share their work, getting feedback from classmates and their instructor. Once the concept has been finalized, they create 3D rapid prototypes with 3D printers or wax milling," says Mark Mann, director, Global Jewelry Manufacturing Arts.

	Of Hubcaps and Cufflinks
Cufflinks masquerading as hubcaps? These high-polished metal pieces sure look like them. And the matte black and fire-engine red color scheme is likely to appeal to men who love sports cars. So will the geometric symmetry of the circle-within-a-circle-within-a-circle design.

	Photo, left, by Eric Welch/GIA, courtesy Craig Selimotic Danforth

	Unchained and Ready to Wear
This ID bracelet looks like a motorcycle chain in many ways. It is made of a two-toned metal, has a continuous locking pattern, and flathead screws that are integral to the design. These elements make for a bold, masculine statement that are tough enough for the most macho motorcyclist.

	Photo, right, © GIA

	Function Over Form
Polished chrome pipes, gleaming carburetors, and exposed gears show that auto aficionados love the inside of their machines as much as the outside. It’s the appreciation of the beauty under the hood, and the valuing of function over form. This titanium watch echoes the same design principles of speed machines. It’s so stripped down that its exposed “engine” and gears are the design – something sure to rev up the car enthusiast.

	Photo, right, by Eric Welch/GIA, courtesy A. Gunalp Horologist Watch & Clock Shop

	Fender Bending
These cufflinks, whose simple, geometric lines evoke the Art Deco era, could resemble the grille of a classic car. They also look like tire treads.

Whatever the designer’s inspiration, the cufflinks are simple and functional. Their tri-color also makes for easy mixing and matching with belt buckles, watches, and other accessories.

	Photo, left, by Eric Welch/GIA, courtesy Craig Selimotic Danforth
The next time you’re designing jewelry, take a stroll through the parking lot. A car design may end up fueling your inspiration. @topic:6


Publish Year: 2009 Title: Polymer-Filled Aquamarine Abstract: The authors have encountered hundreds of polymer-filled aquamarines in the Chinese jewelry market. This treatment can be identified with a standard gemological microscope, since it has characteristics such as a flash effect and relief lines. In addition, some of the filled fractures fluoresce chalky white to long-wave UV radiation. FTIR spectroscopy reveals diagnostic features at ~3100–2850 cm-1 that are related to benzene and ethylic C-H bonds in a polymer. @topic:8


Publish Year: 1993 Title: Jewels of the Edwardians Abstract: Although the reign of King Edward VII of Great Britain was relatively short (1902-1910), the age that bears his name produced distinctive jewelry and ushered in several new designs and manufacturing techniques. During this period, women from the uppermost echelons of society wore a profusion of extravagant jewelry as a way of demonstrating their wealth and rank. The almost exclusive use of platinum, the greater use of pearls, and the steady supply of South African diamonds created a combination that will forever characterize Edwardian jewels. The Edwardian age, truly the last era of the ruling classes, ended dramatically with the onset of World War I. @topic:6


Publish Year: - Title: Fall 1990 G&G Book Reviews Abstract: “Emeralds of Pakistan: Geology, Gemology and Genesis”
Edited by Ali H. Kazmi and Lawrence W. Snee, 269 pp., illus., publ. by the Geological Survey of
Pakistan and Van Nostrand Reinhold Co., New York, 1989. US$39.95

“The Jewelry Design Source Book”
By P. Bayer, V. Becker, H. Craven, P. Hinks, R. Lightbrown, J. Ogden, and D. Scarisbrick, 192 pp., illus., publ.by Van Nostrand Reinhold, New York, 1989. US$39.95

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @topic:2


Publish Year: 1998 Title: Summer 1988 G&G Book Reviews Abstract: “American Jewelry”
By Penny Proddow and Debra Healy, 208 pp., illus., publ. by Rizzoli, New York, 1987. US$75.00

“Introduction to Lapidary”
By Pansy Kraus, 196 pp., illus., publ. by Chilton Book Co., Radnor, PA, 1987. US$19.95

“Jet”
By Helen Muller, 149 pp., illus., publ. by Butterworths, Great Britain, 1987. US$29.95

“Amber”
By Helen Fraquet, 176 pp., illus., publ. by Butterworths, Great Britain, 1987. US$29.95

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @topic:6


Publish Year: - Title: Spring 2009 G&G Book Reviews Abstract: “Cartier”
By Hans Nadelhoffer, 352 pp., illus., publ. by Chronicle Books [www.chroniclebooks.com], San Francisco, 2007. US$75.00

“7000 Years of Jewelry”
By Hugh Tait, Ed., 256 pp., illus., publ. by Firefly Books, Buffalo, NY, 2008. US$29.95

“Pegmatites”
By David London, 368 pp, illus., publ. by the Mineralogical Association of Canada [www.mineralogicalassociation.ca], 2008. US$125.00

“Brooches: Timeless Adornment”
By Lori Ettlinger Gross, 192 pp., illus., publ. by Rizzoli International Publications, New York, 2008. US$45.00

“Collector’s Guide to the Epidote Group”
By Robert J. Lauf, 96 pp., illus., publ. by Schiffer Publishing, Arglen, PA, 2008. US$19.99

“World of Gems Conference”
Edited by Richard Drucker, 90 pp., illus., publ. by Gemworld International [www.gemguide.com], Glenview, IL, 2008, US$29.95

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @topic:6


Publish Year: - Title: Reinventing Lace Abstract: Photo courtesy Neil Lane Jewelry

                      Step into our time machine. Travel back about one hundred years. You have now arrived in Edwardian England (1900 -1915).

You’re at an elegant ball at a duke’s estate. Young princesses and grande dames parade about the aristocratic affair, their stunning jewelry sparkling with triumphal laurel wreaths, ribbons, and filigree.

Fast-forward to the present, and lacey jewelry is making a comeback. Big fashion houses are filling the pages of women’s magazines with haute couture lace clothing. Dresses…shirts…scarves – lace is the look of the day.

Handcrafted items are also popular, and they’re stoking demand for products with an antique appearance. Consumers have been bitten by the nostalgia bug – a grounding look in a fast-changing world – and jewelry designers picked up on this.

"Lace combines history and romance in beautifully crafted patterns. It’s both revealing and concealing at the same time, veiling the skin and accentuating it with its design. I find it to be a very inspiring material for my designs," says jewelry designer, Katherine Semyonov of Katerina Maxine. Semyonov is known for finding inspiration in her Russian heritage.

	Katerina Maxine’s bracelet is ethereal…refined…aristocratic. The use of rose gold gives the piece the warmth of the hearth, while the filigree work evokes the work of skilled craftsmen from days past. Photo courtesy D'Orazio & Associate/Katerina Maxine
Technological advances, ironically, are behind this neo-antique look. Groundbreaking laser technology is allowing designers to make jewelry of unmatched complexity. It’s also enabling them to create the illusion of more jewelry with less material – something increasingly important as the price of precious metals rise.

Antique style and high technology – this blending of the old and new – make it an exciting time to be in the gem and jewelry industry.

	The Limelight Couture Précieuse necklace by Piaget is the epitome of femininity: graceful, flowing lines, and decorated with flowers and honeycombed shapes. It also is a magnificent piece of craftsmanship: It has more than 1,600 diamonds and took more than 800 hours to make. Photo courtesy Piaget @topic:6


Publish Year: - Title: Signs Still Point to ‘Decent’ U.S. Season Abstract: A 61.35 carat emerald ring sold for $4.65 million – four times the pre-sale estimate – at a Sotheby’s auction Dec. 11, 2013 in New York. Photo courtesy of Sotheby’s

	Jewelry sales for the 2013 holiday season continue to point to decent, if not spectacular, growth in the U.S. market, which accounts for about 35% of world volume.  While most diamond and gemstone sales happen in the week before Christmas, the results so far indicate that most of the growth will be driven by higher-end and on-line merchants.

	High-end stores had a strong start to the season, according to a survey by The Centurion Newsletter, with 87% of jewelers reporting sales increases over last year. About a third reported increases between 6% to 10% and a fourth showed increases above 10%. Results tapered off a bit during the second week of the season, but still pointed to a strong showing, especially for diamonds, which accounted for about half of the sales volume.

	The e-commerce research firm comScore reports that on-line sales of all merchandise have been running at 9% above last year. Some surveys note that diamond and jewelry sales are running at higher growth rates.

	U.S. sales of diamonds may be dampened slightly by the continued curtailment of memo business. Banks financing the diamond pipeline have been cracking down on expensive memo deals – where diamond suppliers put goods in retailers’ showcases with little or no money upfront, and collect on sales after January. Banks have also been requiring diamond suppliers to sell goods on shorter payment terms. On the other side, many retailers, citing the huge upfront investment needed, say they cannot afford to keep large diamond inventories.

	Dealers report that demand in China should pick up for the Chinese New Year on Jan. 31, when many workers receive a bonus. Retailers there continue to stock diamonds cautiously, but anticipate strong demand at the end of January—mainly in gold items.

	De Beers’ December sight was about $565 million, much larger than expected. In contrast to the previous sights, clients left few goods on the table – mainly small stones that were not profitable to cut in today’s market, particularly after the value of the rupee plunged in relation to the U.S. dollar, the currency in which De Beers conducts its diamond sales.

	One report noted that few De Beers’ sightholders have been able to make a profit since last June and, as the rupee continues to struggle in the currency exchange markets, they continue to pressure for additional price reductions.

	It is likely, however, that despite the current “break-even” prices of De Beers rough, clients will resist deferring or refusing their sight allocations, because 2014 is the review year for the new client sight contracts that begin in January 2015.

	One area of the market where there seems to be no end to growth is auctions: Christie’s and Sotheby’s combined sales for the year have exceeded $1.2 billion ‒ by far a record.

	Both Sotheby’s and Christie’s had extremely strong end-of-season sales in New York. Sotheby’s total of $60.5 million for its Dec. 11 sale was a record for that venue.  A 61.35 carat Colombian emerald ring soared four times over its pre-sale estimate of $1-$1.5 million, achieving a hammer price of $4.65 million.

	Christie’s Dec. 10 New York sale totaled $65.8 million, with the top lot, a GIA-graded 52.28 ct D –IF, type IIa diamond selling for $10.9 million, or $208,817 per carat. @topic:7


Publish Year: - Title: Career Fair Bridges Gap Between Grads, Employers Abstract: Designer Erica Courtney offers advice to a job seeker at GIA Career Fair in Carlsbad. These coaching sessions are a rare opportunity for aspiring professionals to meet with someone who has been successful in the industry.

The following is excerpted from “Legacy of Leadership: A History of the Gemological Institute of America” (2003).

	Back in early 1991, Kathryn Kimmel [then GIA director of Marketing] faced an altogether different type of challenge, one that went beyond branding or advertising and marketing campaigns. Her industry contacts and extensive retail and jewelry manufacturing experience were in demand throughout the Institute in more ways than she had anticipated. Kimmel recalled, “I had a steady stream of students passing through my office who had completed their education at GIA and were ready to move out into the world, but were looking for guidance on how to do it.”

	Kimmel was dedicated to helping these students, but at most she could mentor only a few each year. There were hundreds more, many of them starting second careers, who needed assistance. While GIA maintained a listing of job opportunities, it had no formal program to facilitate networking between students and the trade. Something needed to be done.

	Kimmel knew from her experience in the trade that there was a huge demand for new talent. Now she could see firsthand that the talent was available—the problem was how to bring demand and supply together. She proposed a solution to [then president, Bill] Boyajian: a GIA-hosted “career fair” that would bring GIA students together with industry figures, both to teach the students more about searching for a job and to introduce them to the trade. Boyajian backed the idea, and Kimmel got to work.

	The first place Kimmel went was the 24 Karat Club of Southern California, where she had been a board member for six years. She pitched the idea to her longtime friend Howard Sherwood. Sherwood immediately agreed to be her co-chair, but others were not as convinced. “Some of them told me it was impossible,” Kimmel said. “I responded, ‘Just watch!’”

	Throughout that summer of 1991, Kimmel worked with a steering committee assembled from members of the 24 Karat Club, among them the club’s president, Jack Zemer; Bart Boydston and Earl Lynch of the Diamond Promotion Service; Lynn Diamond of National Jeweler; and Matt Runci of the Manufacturing Jewelers & Silversmiths of America. The committee set out to build support, financial and otherwise, for a GIA Career Fair. One by one, the doubters were won over, and momentum grew rapidly.

	The first Career Fair was held at GIA’s Santa Monica campus in October 1991, in conjunction with the 24 Karat Club of Southern California’s annual dinner dance. Two hundred and fifty students attended a series of panel discussions on job opportunities in the gem and jewelry industry, the various fields within the trade, and how to move from the classroom to a full-time job. In addition, 23 companies came to recruit.

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	Left: Kathryn Kimmel, co-founder of Career Fair, speaks during a panel. Right: A recruiter meets with a job seeker at GIA Career Fair in Carlsbad.

	Industry response was enthusiastic. When the second Career Fair was held in 1992, something new became its most successful feature: one-on-one guidance from industry leaders on how to find openings and prepare resumés, and to hear about trade opportunities firsthand. “We had a lot of smart students who had little experience in preparing a resumé,” Kimmel said.

	In January 1993, GIA New York inaugurated its own Career Fair. Kimmel believed that Career Fair could do far more than recruit GIA students for industry jobs—it could also attract talented people to the industry. It was a promise that was realized more fully than Kimmel anticipated.

	For the Zale Corp., then the largest U.S. jewelry retailer, Career Fair was “our premier recruitment event,” said Susan Goodfellow, the company’s staffing manager, in 1998. “We [come] looking for regional managers, store managers, and sales associates nationwide. We [hire] jewelry professionals at all levels of expertise, including buyers and store operations personnel.”

	By 2002, the Career Fair in New York was attracting more than 1,000 people, while Carlsbad drew more than 800. With the success of GIA’s Career Fair on both coasts, the trade had come to view it as one of the most important services provided by the Institute, not in the least because it was the largest formal recruiting opportunity in the industry. A modest gathering held before the 24 Karat Club’s annual dinner had grown into a major industry event where GIA students and jobseekers from outside the industry were able to rub elbows with executives from major jewelry companies.

	“Career Fair has done more than just find jobs and mentors for thousands of students,” Kimmel said. “It attracted a lot of new talent to the industry, and it allowed industry figures to give back. When people come up to me and say, ‘I went to Career Fair eight years ago, and I didn’t know a thing, and now I’m vice president of a major jewelry company,’ that’s when I know it really paid off. It’s truly the last bridge from GIA to the trade, and from the trade to our students.”

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	A Carlsbad Career Fair attendee meets with designer Paul Klecka for an informal coaching session. @topic:12


Publish Year: - Title: Zircon Care and Cleaning Guide Abstract: Zircon ranks 6 to 7.5 on the Mohs hardness scale.

Hardness and toughness
Gem and mineral hardness is measured on the Mohs scale. The numbers are based on the relative ease or difficulty with which one mineral can be scratched by another. But the Mohs scale is deceptive. The steps between the minerals are not evenly spaced. For example, diamond is only one number away, but it’s many times harder than gems in the corundum family.

Zircon is rated 6 to 7.5 on the Mohs scale. It has fair to good toughness. While zircon is not as hard or tough as a stone like sapphire, it can still be worn in all types of jewelry as long as proper care is given to avoid rough wearing or hard blows. Also, zircon can be brittle, so it should be worn and stored in a manner that avoids hard rubbing against other materials.

Stability
Zircon is generally stable when exposed to light, but some heat-treated stones might revert back to their original colors (usually light brown) after prolonged exposure to bright light. Heat can alter the color of some zircon. Zircon is stable when exposed to chemicals.

Cleaning
Warm, soapy water is recommended for cleaning zircon. Ultrasonic and steam cleaners are not recommended for cleaning this gem.

	Zircon can be worn and enjoyed for its beauty with a few precautions to avoid rough wear
	that could cause abrasions. - Courtesy Sarah & Leonard Friedman
Treatment concerns
Zircon is commonly heat-treated to produce blue and colorless varieties. As with any transparent gemstone, zircon can be fracture-filled to improve apparent clarity, but this treatment is rarely applied to this gem. @topic:3


Publish Year: - Title: Tourmaline Care and Cleaning Guide Abstract: Tourmaline ranks 7 to 7.5 on the Mohs hardness scale.

Hardness and toughness
Gem and mineral hardness is measured on the Mohs scale. The numbers are based on the relative ease or difficulty with which one mineral can be scratched by another. But the Mohs scale is deceptive. The steps between the minerals are not evenly spaced. For example, diamond is only one number away, but it’s many times harder than gems in the corundum family.

Tourmaline ranks 7 to 7.5 on the Mohs scale. Its toughness is considered Fair.

Stability
Tourmaline is generally stable to light and isn’t affected by exposure to chemicals, but heat can damage a tourmaline. High heat can alter the color, and sudden temperature change (thermal shock) can cause fracturing.

Some tourmalines might have been treated to improve their color. The two most important tourmaline treatments are heating and irradiation.

	The stone on the left was heat-treated to give it its desirable Paraíba color. The violetish stone on the right couldn’t be heated because it contains liquid inclusions. - Courtesy Nomad's Company
Changes resulting from heat treatment are stable and undetectable. Gems with abundant liquid inclusions can’t withstand heat treatment.

Color changes due to irradiation can fade with exposure to heat or bright light.

Cleaning
Warm, soapy water is the best method for cleaning tourmaline. The use of ultrasonic and steam cleaners is not recommended. @topic:1


Publish Year: - Title: Topaz Care and Cleaning Guide Abstract: Topaz ranks 8 on the Mohs haedness scale

Hardness and toughness
Gem and mineral hardness is measured on the Mohs scale. The numbers are based on the relative ease or difficulty with which one mineral can be scratched by another. But the Mohs scale is deceptive. The steps between the minerals are not evenly spaced. For example, diamond is only one number away, but it’s many times harder than gems in the corundum family.

Because of its basal cleavage, topaz requires special care during cutting, polishing, and mounting. It’s not very tough, so a hard blow might split it, and extreme pressure or sharp temperature changes might cause it to break. To reduce the risk of breakage, cutters orient faceted topaz so the cleavage direction is at about a 15-degree angle to the table. Jewelers prefer to set valuable topaz gems in protective mountings. Or they use topaz in pieces that aren’t exposed to too much wear, like pendants and pins.

Topaz rates 8 on the Mohs hardness scale. Its toughness rating is poor due to its cleavage

Stability
High heat or sudden temperature changes can cause breaks in topaz. The gem’s color is generally stable to light, but prolonged exposure to heat or sunlight might cause fading in yellow-to-brown, reddish brown, or dark brown topaz. Topaz is affected only very slightly by chemicals.

Cleaning
It’s important to avoid steam or ultrasound for cleaning topaz: Warm, soapy water works best.

Treatment and durability considerations
Besides irradiation and heat treatment, there is another treatment that involves coating colorless topaz with a microscopic layer of metallic oxide compound. The coating is not very durable. It can resist daily wear and tear, but abrasive cleaners or buffing wheels would remove it. It’s safe to use a mild soap solution.

Despite these care considerations, fine topaz is a beautiful gem that offers a range of warm, attractive colors in large sizes that are often free of visible inclusions or flaws.

	Surface treatment with metallic oxides resulted in the unique look of this ring’s gem, marketed as mystic topaz. - Courtesy Livingstone Jewelry @topic:8


Publish Year: - Title: Spinel Care and Cleaning Guide Abstract: Spinel is a magnificent-but-rare stone that is durable enough to be worn in all types of jewelry. - Courtesy Thomas Baross

Hardness and toughness
Gem and mineral hardness is measured on the Mohs scale. The numbers are based on the relative ease or difficulty with which one mineral can be scratched by another. But the Mohs scale is deceptive. The steps between the minerals are not evenly spaced. For example, diamond is only one number away, but it’s many times harder than gems in the corundum family.

	Spinel ranks 8 on the Mohs hardness scale.
Spinel ranks 8 on the Mohs scale and has good toughness, making it a durable gem for jewelry.

Stability
High heat can cause some spinel colors to fade, but spinel is stable when exposed to light and chemicals.

Cleaning
While ultrasonic cleaners and steam cleaners are usually safe, certain inclusions like fractures could pose a potential problem. It’s always safe to clean spinel with warm soapy water.

Treatment concerns
Some spinel might be subjected to color-altering heat treatment. The treatment is stable under normal wearing conditions. As with any transparent gemstone, spinel might be fracture-filled to improve its apparent clarity. This is rarely done to spinel, but if it is, the filler material can alter over time and affect the appearance of the stone. Any fracture-filled stone should only be cleaned with warm soapy water or a damp cloth. @topic:3


Publish Year: - Title: Peridot Care and Cleaning Guide Abstract: With a little care, peridot will make a fine gemstone for jewelry. - © GIA & Tino Hammid, courtesy 23rd St. Shoppe, Santa Monica

Hardness and toughness
Gem and mineral hardness is measured on the Mohs scale. The numbers are based on the relative ease or difficulty with which one mineral can be scratched by another. But the Mohs scale is deceptive. The steps between the minerals are not evenly spaced. For example, diamond is only one number away, but it’s many times harder than gems in the corundum family.

	Peridot rates 6.5 to 7 on the Mohs hardness scale.
Peridot is 6.5 to 7 on the Mohs scale. It has fair to good toughness. Peridot is durable enough for jewelry wear but should be worn with some care so as not to scratch it or subject it to hard blows that can fracture it.

Stability
Rapid or uneven heat can cause peridot to fracture. Peridot is stable to light but is easily attacked by sulfuric acid, and less easily by hydrochloric acid. It can also be attacked over a long period of time by acid perspiration.

Cleaning
Warm, soapy water is the best method for cleaning peridot. Ultrasonic and steam cleaners are not recommended. @topic:2


Publish Year: - Title: Opal Care and Cleaning Guide Abstract: Opal can range from 5 to 6.5 on the Mohs hardness scale.

Hardness and toughness
Gem and mineral hardness is measured on the Mohs scale. The numbers are based on the relative ease or difficulty with which one mineral can be scratched by another. But the Mohs scale is deceptive. The steps between the minerals are not evenly spaced. For example, diamond is only one number away, but it’s many times harder than gems in the corundum family.

Opal hardness is variable depending on its exact composition and formation conditions, and ranges from 5 to 6.5 on the Mohs scale. Its toughness is very poor to fair, making opal a gem that is suitable for jewelry but requires care when wearing so as to not scratch or break the stone.

Stability
Opal is generally stable, but heat from intense light can cause fracture lines called “crazing.” High heat or sudden temperature changes can also cause opal to fracture.  Opal is attacked by hydrofluoric acid and caustic alkaline solutions.

Treatments
Opals can be treated by impregnation with oil, wax, or plastic, and by surface modifications called sugar treatment and smoke treatment.

Cleaning
The only safe way to clean opal is with warm, soapy water.

	With proper care, opal jewelry will provide years of enjoyment. - Courtesy Cody Opal @topic:13


Publish Year: - Title: Garnet Care and Cleaning Guide Abstract: Garnets have been among the most popular gemstones in jewelry throughout history. They can provide a lifetime of enjoyment with proper care. - © GIA & Tino Hammid, courtesy of 23rd St. Shoppe

Hardness and toughness
Gem and mineral hardness is measured on the Mohs scale. The numbers are based on the relative ease or difficulty with which one mineral can be scratched by another. But the Mohs scale is deceptive. The steps between the minerals are not evenly spaced. For example, diamond is only one number away, but it’s many times harder than gems in the corundum family.

Depending on type, garnet hardness ranges from 6.5 to 7.5 on the Mohs scale. For example, almandine, pyrope, spessartine, and tsavorite are on the harder side while demantoid is a bit softer.

Garnets have fair to good toughness, making them durable enough for all jewelry styles as long as they are treated with the proper care. Garnets should not be subjected to any hard blows or rough wear.

	Depending on type, garnet hardness ranges from 6.5 to 7.5 on the Mohs scale.
Stability
Garnets are stable to light and chemicals. They can be attacked by hydrofluoric acid.

Cleaning
Warm soapy water is always safe for cleaning garnets. The ultrasonic cleaner is usually safe except for stones that have fractures. Steam cleaning is not recommended.

Treatment and durability considerations:
Garnets might rarely be treated by fracture filling. Only warm soapy water should be used to clean fracture-filled stones. @topic:3


Publish Year: - Title: Aquamarine Care and Cleaning Guide Abstract: Aquamarine has been treasured through the ages, and with proper care will give its owner a lifetime of pleasure. - Courtesy Jeffrey Appling

Hardness and toughness
Gem and mineral hardness is measured on the Mohs scale. The numbers are based on the relative ease or difficulty with which one mineral can be scratched by another. But the Mohs scale is deceptive. The steps between the minerals are not evenly spaced. For example, diamond is only one number away, but it’s many times harder than gems in the corundum family.

Aquamarine is 7.5 to 8 on the Mohs scale, so it is a durable gemstone for jewelry as long as it is treated with care to protect it against scratching and hard knocks.

	Aquamarine rates a 7.5 to 8 on the Mohs hardness scale.
Stability
Heat exposure is not recommended for aquamarine, but the color is stable against light exposure. Aquamarine can be attacked by hydrofluoric acid.

Cleaning
Warm soapy water is always a safe cleaning method for aquamarine. Cleaning by ultrasonic and steam cleaners is usually safe unless the stone has liquid inclusions or fractures.
Rarely, aquamarine might be fracture filled. These stones should only be cleaned with warm soapy water. @topic:8


Publish Year: - Title: Amethyst Care and Cleaning Guide Abstract: With proper care, amethyst is a beautiful and versatile gemstone for jewelry use. - Courtesy Epstein

Hardness and toughness
Gem and mineral hardness is measured on the Mohs scale. The numbers are based on the relative ease or difficulty with which one mineral can be scratched by another. But the Mohs scale is deceptive. The steps between the minerals are not evenly spaced. For example, diamond is only one number away, but it’s many times harder than gems in the corundum family.

Common substances like sand and dust are composed mostly of quartz, the mineral species that includes the purple variety amethyst. So, while amethyst is a great gemstone for use in jewelry, it should be treated with the proper care to prevent scratching and other damage.

Amethyst rates a 7 on the Mohs scale and has good toughness, so it is suitable for all jewelry types. This includes rings as long as the wearer understands the limits of its hardness.

A ranking of 7 on the Mohs scale means amethyst is a durable jewelry gem as long as proper precautions are followed to prevent scratching.

	A ranking of 7 on the Mohs scale means amethyst is a durable jewelry gem as long as proper precautions are followed to prevent scratching.
Stability
Abrupt temperature changes can cause amethyst to fracture. Some amethyst color can fade with prolonged exposure to intense light. Amethyst can also be damaged by hydrofluoric acid, ammonium fluoride, and alkaline solutions.

Cleaning
Amethyst can be safely cleaned with warm soapy water. Ultrasonic cleaners are usually safe except in the rare instances where a stone is dyed or treated by fracture filling. Steam cleaning is not recommended, and amethyst should not be subjected to heat. @topic:8


Publish Year: - Title: Winter 2012 G&G Book Reviews Abstract: “Symphony of Jewels: Anna Hu Opus 1”
By Janet Zapata, Carol Woolton, and David Warren, 167 pp., illus., publ. by Vendome Press, New York, 2012. US$75.00

“Celebrating Jewellery: Exceptional Jewels of the Nineteenth and Twentieth Centuries”
By David Bennett and Daniela Mascetti, 323 pp., illus., publ. by Antique Collector’s Club, Wood- bridge, UK, 2012. US$125.00

“Jewels of the Early Earth: Minerals and Fossils of the Precambrian”
By Bruce L. Stinchcomb, 160 pp., illus., publ. by Schiffer Publishing, Atglen, PA, 2012. US$29.99

“The Queen’s Diamonds”
By Hugh Roberts. 319 pp., illus., publ. by Royal Collection Publications, London, 2012. US$95.00

“Amethyst: Uncommon Vintage”
By H. Albert Gilg, Suzanne Liebetrau, Gloria A. Staebler, and Tom Wilson, Eds., 124 pp., illus., publ. by Lithographie, Ltd., Denver, 2012. US$35.00

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @topic:6


Publish Year: - Title: Moonstone Care and Cleaning Guide Abstract: While requiring care to avoid damage, moonstone lends an almost magical sheen to jewelry. - Courtesy Richard Krementz Gemstones

Hardness and toughness
Gem and mineral hardness is measured on the Mohs scale. The numbers are based on the relative ease or difficulty with which one mineral can be scratched by another. But the Mohs scale is deceptive. The steps between the minerals are not evenly spaced. For example, diamond is only one number away, but it’s many times harder than gems in the corundum family.

Moonstone falls between 6 and 6.5 on the Mohs scale. It also has poor toughness.

	Moonstone ranks 6 to 6.5 on the Mohs scale.
Moonstone has two cleavage directions, a trait it shares with the other members of the feldspar family of minerals. Cleavage is a direction of atomic weakness that makes a crystal more prone to breaking. Cleavage can affect durability, so manufacturers usually set moonstone into pendants, earrings, and pins rather than rings, which are more likely to receive knocks and bumps.

	Due to a property called cleavage, a hard blow can break a moonstone.
Stability
High heat or sudden temperature change can cause breaks in moonstone. It is stable to light but is harmed by exposure to hydrofluoric acid.

Cleaning
Warm soapy water is the only recommended substance for cleaning moonstones. Ultrasonic and steam cleaners are never recommended. @topic:8


Publish Year: - Title: Sapphire Care and Cleaning Guide Abstract: Corundum in all colors is a highly durable gemstone for use in jewelry. - Courtesy Pauling Blue Fire Diamonds, Carlsbad, California

Hardness and toughness
Gem and mineral hardness is measured on the Mohs scale. The numbers are based on the relative ease or difficulty with which one mineral can be scratched by another. But the Mohs scale is deceptive. The steps between the minerals are not evenly spaced. For example, diamond is only one number away, but it’s many times harder than gems in the corundum family.

Corundum (ruby and sapphire) is relatively hard—9 on the Mohs scale. It has excellent toughness and no cleavage, which is a tendency to break when struck. This makes it a great choice for rings and other mountings subject to daily wear.

	Sapphire ranks 9 on the Mohs hardness scale.

Stability
Corundum is stable under normal wearing conditions, which means it’s resistant to the effects of heat, light, and common chemicals. Boric acid powder will etch the surface of even untreated stones. Fracture-filled, cavity-filled, and dyed stones can be damaged by even mild acids like lemon juice.

Cleaning
Warm, soapy water is always safe. Ultrasonic and steam cleaners are usually safe for untreated, heat-treated, and lattice diffusion treated stones. Fracture-filled, cavity-filled, or dyed material should only be cleaned with a damp cloth.

Treatment and durability considerations
Untreated and even heat-treated sapphire is very durable.

Stones that have undergone lattice diffusion treatment have varying degrees of treated-color penetration. In some stones, the treated color penetrates the entire stone, while in others there’s very shallow penetration. Surface damage or re-cutting can remove the color from lattice diffusion treated stones with shallow color penetration.

Fracture-filled stones have surface-reaching fractures filled primarily with high-lead content glass.  The filler can be damaged through contact with a variety of chemicals. Even relatively mild substances like lemon juice can cause alteration of high-lead content glass.

The number of sapphires filled with high-lead content glass is much lower than the number of rubies. In some cases, the amount of glass filler in a sapphire can be quite extensive. Sapphires treated this way require greater care than untreated, heat-treated, or lattice diffusion treated sapphire. @topic:3


Publish Year: - Title: Ruby Care and Cleaning Guide Abstract: Ruby is an incredibly durable gemstone if there are no treatment-related durability concerns. - Courtesy Jan Goodman Co.

Hardness and toughness
Gem and mineral hardness is measured on the Mohs scale. The numbers are based on the relative ease or difficulty with which one mineral can be scratched by another. But the Mohs scale is deceptive. The steps between the minerals are not evenly spaced. For example, diamond is only one number away, but it’s many times harder than gems in the corundum family.

Corundum (ruby and sapphire) is relatively hard—9 on the Mohs scale. It has excellent toughness and no cleavage, which is a tendency to break when struck. This makes it a great choice for rings and other mountings subject to daily wear.

	Ruby ranks 9 on the Mohs hardness scale, so it’s an effective jewelry stone.

Stability
Corundum is stable under normal wearing conditions, which means it’s resistant to the effects of heat, light, and common chemicals. Boric acid powder will etch the surface of even untreated stones. Fracture-filled, cavity-filled, and dyed stones can be damaged by even mild acids like lemon juice.

Cleaning
Warm soapy water is always safe. Ultrasonic and steam cleaners are usually safe for untreated, heat-treated, and lattice diffusion treated stones. Fracture-filled, cavity-filled, or dyed material should only be cleaned with a damp cloth.

Treatment and durability considerations
Untreated ruby and even heat-treated ruby are very durable. Stones that have undergone lattice diffusion treatment have varying degrees of treated-color penetration. In some stones, the treated color penetrates the entire stone, while others have very shallow treated-color penetration. For stones with shallow color penetration, surface damage or re-cutting can remove color.

Today’s fracture-filled stones have surface-reaching fractures filled primarily with a high-lead content glass. There are large numbers of these treated rubies in the market and they require greater care than untreated, heat-treated, or lattice diffusion treated ruby. The glass can be damaged through contact with a variety of chemicals. Even relatively mild substances like lemon juice can cause changes in the high-lead content glass. @topic:8


Publish Year: - Title: Bench Tip: Discover the Benefits of CAD/CAM Abstract: CAD/CAM jewelry design rendering of a ring

                      CAD/CAM is a term that describes the two-part process of designing three-dimensional objects on a computer (CAD) and manufacturing them with a computerized machine (CAM). For many years this technology has been essential in making products from tennis shoes to automobiles, and it is rapidly gaining importance in the jewelry industry. In fact, many experts believe CAD/CAM will be the primary process of jewelry design and manufacturing in the near future.

CAD is an acronym for computer-aided design, but early on it stood for computer-aided drafting, since it was essentially a tool to make traditional technical drawings with a monitor and a mouse. As technology progressed, it became possible to create three-dimensional “models” within the computer environment. These “virtual solids” can be rotated and manipulated onscreen and examined from any angle, built up and cut away the same as a physical model, and even weighed before they are constructed.

For the bench jeweler, CAD modeling onscreen has more in common with wax carving than with pencil, paper and watercolors. Once the virtual model is completed to the designer’s satisfaction, the CAD file may be sent to a CAM machine for production. Rhino, Matrix, ArtCam, RhinoGold and Solidworks are some of the widely used 3-D modeling software in the jewelry industry today.

The advantages of CAD/CAM over traditional manufacturing methods are similar to the advantages of a word processor, such as Microsoft Word, over a typewriter. A typewriter produces “one-off” documents that aren’t easily changeable without starting over. But Word files can be modified easily, copied and pasted into other documents, and saved at each stage for later use.

CAD files can also be copied, changed and saved as often as the designer chooses. A model can be designed and saved, then redesigned to create literally endless variations on a theme. A file can be called up the next day or 10 years later and still be redesigned and sent to the CAM machine. Some manufacturers have stopped making master models since they only need to open the original CAD file and send it to the CAM machine to produce an exact duplicate of the master. Many smaller jewelers own just the CAD software and simply e-mail their CAD files to CAM service bureaus, which fabricate the models for them.

Besides its advantages in the manufacturing process, CAD software can work in tandem with high-tech rendering software such as V-Ray, Brazil and Maxwell to produce spectacular photorealistic images of virtual jewelry models before the actual piece is made. These images can be extremely effective marketing and sales tools. @topic:6


Publish Year: 2024 Title: CVD with “Ancient Text” Clouds Abstract: Figure 1. The pavilion of this 1.67 ct pear-shaped CVD-grown diamond displayed an interesting feature with numerous cloud features resembling lines of text. Photomicrograph by Raju Jain; field of view ~2 mm.
The Surat lab received a 1.67 ct D-color pear shape submitted for laboratory-grown diamond service. Spectroscopy and fluorescence imaging confirmed this was a diamond grown by chemical vapor deposition (CVD) that had undergone post-growth high-pressure, high-temperature (HPHT) annealing. This CVD diamond with SI1 clarity displayed an interesting cloud feature that resembled lines of text in an ancient manuscript (figure 1).

Figure 2. A DiamondView image of the pavilion shows the region containing the cloud characteristic. While this image reveals the growth interfaces and the coloration confirms HPHT annealing, it does not show features corresponding to the cloud. Image by Suvarna Gaikwad.
The “lines” of clouds—a feature never before seen by the authors—were oriented approximately 45° to the growth interface seen with DiamondView imaging (figure 2). Examination of the fluorescence images (including those collected with selective-wavelength filters) revealed that the cloud features did not coincide with dislocation bundles, and striations were not observed. Photoluminescence mapping with 532 nm excitation showed high concentrations of the silicon vacancy (SiV–) defect at 737 nm but did not indicate any spatial features corresponding to the clouds. Infrared absorption spectroscopy indicated a type IIb diamond with very low concentrations of uncompensated boron.
This diamond was noteworthy for its unusual and visually appealing clarity characteristic. Additionally, the dichotomy of a thoroughly modern diamond with a cloud feature that evoked an ancient text provided an interesting submission. @topic:4


Publish Year: 2023 Title: Fall 2023 Auction Highlights Abstract: Figure 1. The “Infinite Blue,” an 11.28 ct Fancy Vivid blue diamond, sold for $25.3 million in Hong Kong. Courtesy of Sotheby’s.
Following the controversial three-part sale of Heidi Horten’s jewels in the spring (Summer 2023 GNI, pp. 254–256), Christie’s announced the cancellation of the fourth sale ahead of the fall auction season. The late Austrian billionaire’s estate made headlines earlier in the year because of her husband’s connection to Nazi Germany, resulting in considerable backlash against Christie’s despite their pledge to donate part of commissions to Holocaust-related charities.
In early October, Sotheby’s kicked off the season with a single-lot sale of the 11.28 ct “Infinite Blue” (figure 1) in Hong Kong. Celebrating its 50th year in Asia, the auction house offered the Fancy Vivid blue type IIb diamond from the Cullinan mine in South Africa set in a ring with a pink diamond halo and colorless diamond side stones. With GIA’s highest color grade for a blue diamond, the ring sold for $25.3 million, just below the low end of its presale estimate.

Figure 2. Selling for $44 million, the 17.61 ct Internally Flawless “Bleu Royal” became the most expensive auction jewel of 2023. Courtesy of Christie’s Images Ltd. 2023.
Another blue diamond achieved better results in early November. The pear-shaped “Bleu Royal” (figure 2), a 17.61 ct Internally Flawless Fancy Vivid blue, was offered by Christie’s in Geneva as the largest diamond of its color to ever appear at auction. Set in a ring that also featured two pear-shaped colorless diamonds of approximately 3 ct each, the piece became the most expensive auction jewel of 2023. After seven minutes of bidding, the ring featuring the GIA-graded type IIb diamond sold for $44 million, near the higher end of its presale estimate.

Figure 3. A ring featuring the “Pink Supreme,” a 15.48 ct Internally Flawless Fancy Intense pink diamond, sold in Hong Kong for almost $11 million. Courtesy of Christie’s Images Ltd. 2023.
The “Pink Supreme” (figure 3), a 15.48 ct Internally Flawless Fancy Intense pink diamond and the largest of its kind ever offered at auction, sold for $10.8 million at Christie’s Magnificent Jewels sale in Hong Kong on November 27. Set in a gold ring with pear-shaped and round colorless diamonds, the GIA-graded type IIa gem belonging to a private collector sold within its presale estimate.
In a season filled with plot twists, some highly advertised and anticipated pieces did not go under the hammer on auction day. The “Blue Lagoon,” a 93.94 ct blue Paraíba tourmaline and the top lot for Sotheby’s Magnificent Jewels in Geneva, was withdrawn before the auction went live. In the final Magnificent Jewels auction of the season in New York, Christie’s promoted the “California Sunset” diamond earrings as their top lot. Featuring a stunning pair of Fancy Vivid orange-yellow diamonds weighing approximately 12 ct each, the earrings, estimated to fetch up to $12 million, were also a no-show. @topic:7


Publish Year: 2023 Title: CVD “Etch” Channel Abstract: Figure 1. The etch channel in this CVD laboratory-grown diamond extends across the table facet into the crown. Photomicrograph by Elina Myagkaya; field of view 7.19 mm.
GIA’s New York laboratory recently examined a diamond that had been grown via chemical vapor deposition (CVD) and processed using a high-pressure, high-temperature (HPHT) treatment. Standard grading procedures identified it as a 4.00 ct H-color cushion modified brilliant with SI1 clarity. The diamond was identified as HPHT processed primarily due to the green fluorescence observed in the stone (see figure 3), while distinct fluorescent growth layers across the table and pavilion confirmed its CVD origin.

Figure 2. Dark residue is visible in some parts of the channel, as seen through the pavilion. The appearance of the residue is similar to that of graphitized carbon but could also be attributed to non-diamond carbon. Photomicrograph by Elina Myagkaya; field of view 1.99 mm.

Figure 3. DiamondView imaging revealed that the channel was surrounded by blue-fluorescing dislocation bundles extending across the growth layers of the CVD diamond. Image by Elina Myagkaya.
While GIA regularly receives CVD-grown diamonds submitted for laboratory-grown diamond reports, this particular example exhibited a unique characteristic. An etch channel–like structure was plainly visible across the table of the stone, a feature not observed in CVD laboratory-grown diamonds at GIA so far. The channel broke the surface of the table and extended across the stone, ending near a pavilion facet on the other side (figure 1). When viewed under high magnification, a dark residue (figure 2) was observed around parts of the channel. This residue was not present throughout the channel and appeared to be opaque. Close to the surface-reaching channel on the table facet were multiple smaller channels contained within the diamond. The surface-reaching opening of the channel was imaged with a scanning electron microscope (SEM), which revealed a jagged, slit-shaped entrance, suggesting that the shape of the channel extending throughout the diamond structure was similar in nature (figure 4). Some fragmentary material trapped just inside the entrance of the opening appeared to extend into the channel itself. This fragmentary material could have been the same type of opaque residue observed in some areas of the channel.

Figure 4. A secondary electron SEM image showed the finer structure of the channel opening, revealing a jagged, slit-like feature. Field of view 16 μm.
Fluorescence imaging with the DiamondView instrument also revealed the presence of this channel, which could be discerned by the blue-fluorescing line of dislocation bundles following the channel’s path (figure 3). These dislocation bundles appeared almost perpendicular to the green-fluorescing growth layer boundaries, suggesting the channel was created by exploiting weaker dislocation bundles that propagated through the diamond during CVD growth.
The presence of this channel in a CVD laboratory-grown diamond and the shape of the channel opening were unlike any natural etch channel opening or laser drill hole opening previously seen. It is unclear whether this channel was created during initial CVD growth or during HPHT processing. The opaque residue visible in some parts of the channel as well as the material visible at the channel surface could point to the presence of graphitized carbon, suggesting the channel was a byproduct of HPHT treatment, or it might indicate the presence of non-diamond carbon, which is a common feature found in untreated CVD laboratory-grown diamonds. In summary, the residue may arise from either the CVD growth process or post-growth treatment. Because this feature has not previously been documented at GIA, future studies may help determine the mechanism of action that could create channels in CVD-grown diamonds. @topic:4


Publish Year: 2023 Title: Patchy Yellow Trigon Abstract: Trigons creating the impression of a thin and patchy “yellow skin” on a 0.98 ct rough diamond. Photomicrograph by Nicole Ahline; field of view 2.34 mm.
Occasionally, diamonds show irregularity in their color related to heterogeneous distribution of atomic-level defects. “Yellow-skin” diamonds are evidence of this. Seen in the figure above is the rough surface of a 0.98 ct diamond that shows a trigon with patchy yellow coloration. The yellow color is caused by isolated nitrogen that is confined to the outer surface of the rough stone, making it look like the rough diamond has a “yellow skin.”
Yellow diamonds colored by isolated nitrogen are known to have uniform to patchy or irregular color zoning (more information on naturally colored yellow and orange diamonds can be found in C.M. Breeding et al., “Naturally colored yellow and orange gem diamonds: The nitrogen factor,” Summer 2020 G&G, pp. 194–219). The color zoning (or lack of) correlates with the distribution of the nitrogen in the diamond’s crystal lattice as it grows. It is theorized that the “yellow skin” is from a subsequent growth event, making it younger than the colorless diamond it surrounds. @topic:4


Publish Year: 2023 Title: Liberian Ruby Abstract: Figure 1. A handful of gem gravel collected from the Lofa River in Weasua, Liberia, showing the high concentration of ruby material. Photo courtesy of Diamonds for Peace.
A gemological education can often prove useful in the most unusual of circumstances. On a recent trip to rural Liberia with the Japan-based NGO Diamonds for Peace (DfP), the author discovered a previously unacknowledged source of ruby. The original purpose of the visit was to deliver a rough diamond grading and valuation workshop to the miners working and living in 17 communities across Liberia. During the trip, the author stayed in the town of Weasua, one of the larger mining communities, to experience the standard of living and the general working conditions of the miners. The poverty is extreme. Most homes are without electricity, facilities, or running water, and only three functional water pumps exist for a population of 5,000, all of which place the health and the well-being of this community at risk. DfP has been working with this community since 2018 and has made significant inroads in supporting and improving the lives of these miners, but there is a long way to go, and strategies to aid their mission are continually being developed.

Figure 2. Left: One of the Liberian diamond miners displays some of the rubies she found while digging. Right: A ring mounted with a Liberian ruby. Photos by Diamonds for Peace (left) and Alex Herbert (right).
It was therefore fortuitous that during the visit, the author learned that there were other promising gem-quality minerals in the alluvial gravels the miners were collecting in their pursuit of diamond (figure 1). Upon initial inspection while on-site, the author noted material resembling corundum (primarily ruby), garnet, topaz, rock crystal quartz, and possible spinel. Samples were purchased from the miners for analysis, which came as a welcome surprise since they were unaware that these colored stones could carry any value (figure 2, left).
The author subsequently analyzed all the samples at the Gemmological Certification Services (GCS) laboratory in London. Using advanced and standard gemological testing, the identity of all the presumed gem-quality minerals of the collected specimens was confirmed. Particular focus was placed on the rubies due to their apparent abundance at the mine site, with the hope of providing another means of income for this community.
All ten samples tested were identified as corundum. Due to the nature of the rough material, standard testing was limited, beyond measuring specific gravity—which, averaging 4.0 across all samples, supported corundum. The ultraviolet/visible/infrared absorption spectrum, with its chromium-associated features, was also consistent with ruby. X-ray fluorescence analysis of the trace element chemistry revealed 1029–2377 ppm iron and 721–2915 ppm chromium, with low levels of gallium (54 ppm) and vanadium (53 ppm).
Generally, the color of the alluvial material collected ranged from pinkish gray to a deep purplish red, with sizes varying from 6 to 14 mm (1.45–15.90 ct), although the author was shown larger pieces on-site. All of the material showed a moderate to weak red fluorescence response in long-wave UV and inert to weak red in short-wave UV, consistent with high-iron ruby due to the quenching of Cr3+-associated fluorescence by iron. The majority of the samples showed lamellar twinning, surface-reaching fractures, and iron staining. The material was translucent to opaque, meaning that clear observation of any other inclusions was limited.
Although the material is not considered high-quality ruby, some of the better pieces have been polished to create attractive cabochons (figure 2, right). Diamonds for Peace is currently developing a business plan to monetize this material for the benefit of the community. The GCS laboratory will continue to support Diamonds for Peace as that organization explores this new potential avenue of income for the miners of Weasua. @topic:11


Publish Year: 2021 Title: Two Antique Mughal Spectacles with Gemstone Lenses Abstract: Figure 1. These antique spectacles contain diamond (left) and emerald (right). Photos by Jian Xin (Jae) Liao.
Lenses play a major role in the daily work of a gemologist, from magnification using a loupe or microscope to the optics used in conjunction with lasers from advanced testing instruments. Even our eyes contain organic lenses, which we use to see the world. In many cultures, seeing the world in completely new ways is often achievable by means of introspection such as contemplative moments or meditation, but sometimes all one truly requires is a pair of glasses.
Recently, GIA’s New York laboratory had the spectacular opportunity to observe and analyze two pairs of truly unique antique spectacles (figure 1). The two spectacles have a storied connection dating back to the height of the Mughal Empire. Their lenses are crafted from diamond and emerald, respectively. According to information provided by the client and independent researchers, the two pairs of spectacles were likely fashioned in mid-seventeenth century India, a period in the Mughal Empire that had an established lapidary tradition and artisans with the expertise to accomplish such creations. Information submitted by the client suggests that the lenses may have been cut from the same rough diamond and the same rough emerald, respectively. Further evidence suggests that while the fashioning of the lenses dates back to the seventeenth century, the frames date from the late nineteenth century based on design and style.

Figure 2. Left: Overlapping mid-infrared spectra of both lenses revealed them to be type Ia diamonds. Right: Two strain images, one of each lens, under cross-polarized light showing natural growth structure and internal stress during natural diamond formation. Images by Christopher Vendrell; field of view 19.27 mm.
The first of the two spectacles, called Halqeh-Ye Nur or “Halo of Light,” consists of two transparent near-colorless modified pear-shaped lenses in a yellow metal frame surrounded by numerous transparent near-colorless stones of various shapes and cuts. The client requested that only the two near-colorless transparent lenses be tested. Infrared spectra and strain images were collected as part of the testing (figure 2). Both lenses were identified as natural type Ia diamonds, sharing matching spectra when overlapped. The strain images revealed natural growth structures and internal stress during diamond formation. While GIA’s investigations were limited in scope to identifying the gem material set in each pair of spectacles, the evidence as a whole seems to suggest that the lenses were cleaved from the same large diamond rough.
The second pair of spectacles, called Astaneh-Ye Ferdaws or “Gate of Paradise,” consists of two transparent green pear-shaped lenses in a white and yellow metal frame set with two green rectangular step cuts and numerous near-colorless stones of various shapes and cuts. According to information provided by the client, the pear-shaped lenses originate from a single natural emerald that originally weighed more than 300 carats. Both spectacles are consistent with the design and style of the late nineteenth century and are believed to have been upgraded to the fashion of the time.

Figure 3. A field of jagged three-phase inclusions hosting gas bubbles, colorless cubic crystals, and aqueous liquid. Photomicrograph by Augusto Castillo; field of view 1.99 mm.
The client requested that both green transparent lenses as well as all 45 of the surrounding near-colorless stones be tested. Microscopic observation, one of the main identification methods for emeralds, revealed an inclusion scene typical for emeralds from Colombia: classic jagged three-phase inclusions hosting a gas bubble and a cubic colorless crystal suspended in fluid (figure 3). It is well established that these daughter crystals are halides, commonly rock salt, derived from the saline brine contained in the primary fluid inclusion (E.J. Gübelin and J.I. Koivula, Photoatlas of Inclusions in Gemstones, Vol. 3, 2008, Opinio-Verlag Publishers, Basel, Switzerland, p. 427).

Figure 4. Opaque black grains were also observed, consistent with inclusions observed in emeralds from Colombia. Photomicrograph by Augusto Castillo; field of view 1.26 mm.
Unidentified tiny opaque black grains were also observed (figure 4), but otherwise the lenses were relatively inclusion free. Examination of minor fissures seen near the gem’s surface using ultraviolet light and microscopic observation indicated the presence of an oil or resin, but this is not believed to have affected the overall appearance. Therefore, the emeralds were classified as having “no indications of clarity enhancement.”
Standard gemological testing revealed a refractive index of 1.577 to 1.583 with a birefringence of 0.006. Examination between crossed polarizing filters showed a uniaxial optic figure. The pleochroism was green to blue-green, and a handheld spectroscope revealed a typical emerald spectrum. These properties and observations confirmed that the green transparent lenses were natural emeralds.
All 45 of the transparent near-colorless stones surrounding the two emerald lenses were identified as diamonds using GIA’s iD100 device, microscopic observation, and additional advanced testing.
Even by today’s standards, these astonishing curiosities are objects of technical mastery by the artisans and the brilliant vision of the patrons who commissioned the spectacles. From these fine examples of Mughal craftsmanship, to more modern examples such as synthetic sapphire sunglasses made for Sir Elton John (see Winter 1997 Lab Notes, p. 296), we continue to be pleasantly surprised by gem materials passing through GIA that have been fashioned into unique items such as these lenses. We imagine Sir Elton would approve of these Mughal spectacles. @topic:2


Publish Year: 2020 Title: GIA Museum’s Tucson Exhibit Receives Two Awards Abstract: This exhibit highlighted GIA’s research into the origin of several of the most famous diamonds. Photo by McKenzie Santimer.

The GIA Museum received two awards for its exhibit at the 2020 Tucson Gem and Mineral Show. “The Science Behind World-Class Diamonds” (see above) won Best Museum Exhibit from the Tucson Gem & Mineral Society and Best Institutional Educational Award from the Friends of Mineralogy. The exhibit demonstrated how famous diamonds such as the Hope and the Cullinan originated in extreme depths of the earth’s lower mantle. The showcase featured extraordinary diamond jewelry and diamond replicas.
More than 30 cases were displayed by renowned museums including the Smithsonian Institution, LA County Museum of Natural History, and the Royal Ontario Museum. This is the second time GIA has won the award for Best Museum Exhibit, having won previously in 2016. @topic:11


Publish Year: 2022 Title: Fall 2022 Auction Highlights Abstract: Figure 1. The 11.15 ct Williamson Pink Star is set in an 18K pink and white gold ring, along with 1.41 carats of trapeze-cut diamonds and 0.14 carats of brilliant-cut pink diamonds. Courtesy of Sotheby’s.
The astounding results of colored diamond sales in the spring auction season (Summer 2022 GNI, pp. 260–263) left expectations high for fall. Pink diamonds set the scene for the beginning of the season, starting with a bang at a Sotheby’s stand-alone sale in Hong Kong in October. Selling for $57.7 million, almost three times its estimate, the 11.15 ct Williamson Pink Star (figure 1) became the second most valuable jewel ever sold at auction. After 20 minutes and 50 bids, the GIA-graded natural Fancy Vivid pink internally flawless cushion-shaped diamond broke the record price per carat for any diamond or gemstone sold at auction, at $5.2 million a carat.

Figure 2. The 18.18 ct Fortune Pink sold in Geneva for $28.9 million. Courtesy of Christie’s.
The colored diamond trend headed downward the following month with the Fortune Pink (figure 2) at Christie’s Magnificent Jewels sale in Geneva, selling below expectations at the lower end of its estimate. Fetching $28.9 million, the GIA-graded 18.18 ct stone is the largest pear-shaped Fancy Vivid pink diamond ever sold at auction.

Figure 3. Surrounded by pink diamonds, this 31.62 ct Fancy blue diamond pendant sold within its estimate at $11.8 million. Courtesy of Christie’s.
Another pink diamond, a 13.15 ct emerald cut, was slated to lead Christie’s December Magnificent Jewels sale in New York before it was withdrawn weeks before the auction and later revealed as alleged stolen property. A 31.62 ct Fancy blue diamond pendant (figure 3) was then placed as the top lot of the auction. The GIA-graded pear modified brilliant cut, noted by Christie’s as the largest of its kind to appear at auction, garnered $11.8 million, toward the lower end of the estimate. Three other blue diamonds offered by Sotheby’s from the De Beers Exceptional Blue collection drew lackluster results throughout the season. Two were left unsold, and one was withdrawn prior to auction.

Figure 4. The 303.10 ct Golden Canary, recently recut from the Incomparable, became the third most valuable diamond sold at auction. Courtesy of Sotheby’s.
In an unexpected conclusion to the season, the Golden Canary (figure 4) sold below its estimate at $12 million. Without a reserve, Sotheby’s anticipated the 303.10 ct pear-shaped Fancy Deep brownish yellow diamond to secure more than $15 million in the New York auction. Still, the diamond became the third most valuable diamond ever sold at auction, Sotheby’s noted. As the largest flawless or internally flawless and largest pear-shaped diamond graded by GIA to date, the Golden Canary can be traced back to a young girl’s discovery of an 890 ct rough near her uncle’s house in the Democratic Republic of the Congo in the early 1980s. The 407.48 ct Incomparable, the largest of the 15 finished stones from the rough diamond, was recently transformed into the Golden Canary to improve its color and shape.
The real surprise of Sotheby’s New York auction—and perhaps the season—was the sale of a ring featuring a 6.25 ct emerald recovered from the legendary 1622 shipwreck of the Nuestra Señora de Atocha. The ring sold in just five minutes for $1.2 million, more than 17 times its estimate. All proceeds were donated to humanitarian efforts in Ukraine. @topic:7