Publish Year: - Title: De Beers Optimistic as Sales Revive; Luxury Houses Remain Cautious Abstract: De Beers and Alrosa sold more than $1 billion into the rough market in January, the largest monthly quantity in three years. These rough diamonds – from Brauna, Nordestina City, Brazil – have a total weight of 62.78 carats. Courtesy Aftergut N. & Zonen. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA

	De Beers issued a dose of optimism recently with its largest cycle (sight) in more than two years. Additionally, luxury sales have begun to rise again, albeit hesitantly, after a negative year.

	The company’s January cycle totaled about $720 million and the Feb. 20-23 cycle is expected to be similar.

	De Beers CEO Bruce Cleaver said demand for rough diamonds remained “healthy,” adding that the company would exercise caution if necessary, especially at the lower end of the market where Indian manufacturers are still trying to adjust to the demonetization of 500 and 1000 rupee notes (worth US $7.50 and $15 respectively) which hit some of the smaller firms that deal mainly in cash.

	While rough demand remains firm, inventories of polished diamonds have been increasing as sales have not kept pace with production of new goods. This is creating concern that the trade may encounter difficulties in the second half of the year.

	Alrosa, which mines and markets the majority of Russia’s diamond production, sold $358.2 million in rough diamonds at its January sale. The company expressed caution, especially for melee goods that have been affected by India’s demonetization.

	The large luxury houses – including LVMH, which owns the majority of shares in De Beers’ retail operations, Italian jewelry brand Bulgari, and Fred Joallier − posted a 5% worldwide sales increase for the year, with an especially strong final quarter.

	LVMH chairman Bernard Arnault warned against “irrational exuberance” as the company’s stock climbed about 10% in the final quarter, saying potential trade and currency wars and continued difficulties in Europe − coupled with the fact that the world is coming to the end of a 10-year growth cycle − could bring “difficult trading conditions” during the second half of the year. LVMH noted it would mount a strong marketing push to counteract this challenging economic and geopolitical environment in 2017.

	Richemont, which owns Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, had an 8% sales increase in its jewelry division during the first fiscal quarter of 2017, after a 13% decline for fiscal 2016 that ended Sept. 30. While improved business in the Chinese mainland was one factor for the upturn, strong demand from upscale U.S. consumers also accounted for a significant portion of the increase. @topic:7


Publish Year: 1989 Title: The Sinkankas Library Abstract: The world-renowned Sinkankas collection of books and other publications is now available to the public as part of the Richard T. Liddicoat Gemological Library and Information Center at GIA Santa Monica. Acquired by noted author and lapidary John Sinkankas and his wife Marjorie over the course of 40 years, the approximately 14,000 items include virtually all of the major works related to the study of gems and jewelry. This review of the important works in the Sinkankas library also serves to highlight the historical development of gemology – in art, in culture, and as a science. @topic:6


Publish Year: 2015 Title: Dumortierite In Rock Crystal Quartz Abstract: Figure 1. This group of rock crystal quartz from Brazil shows vibrant blue dumortierite inclusions. The largest rough crystal weighs 139.79 ct, and the faceted stone weighs 15.47 ct. Photo by Kevin Schumacher.

              Dumortierite, which commonly occurs as a blue borosilicate mineral, is of gemological interest when present in quartzite, making an attractive blue ornamental material. Recently examined by GIA’s Carlsbad laboratory were several examples of dumortierite inclusions in rock crystal quartz (figure 1) provided by Luciana Barbosa (Asheville, North Carolina). According to Mrs. Barbosa, the material is reported to be from the Brazilian state of Bahia, in the Serra do Espinhaço Range near the Vaca Morta quarry.

Figure 2. Clusters of vibrant blue acicular dumortierite were observed in this rock crystal quartz. Note that some dumortierite crystals are brownish due to epigenetic mineral staining along the interface of the quartz host and the dumortierite inclusions. Photomicrograph by Nathan Renfro; horizontal field of view 7.38 mm.
Much of the material examined by the authors showed phantom planes and clusters of acicular needles with a vibrant blue coloration (figure 2). Polarized light revealed very strong blue to colorless pleochroism in the blue mineral inclusions. Raman analysis confirmed the identity of the needles as dumortierite. Also observed in one sample were colorless acicular crystals on a phantom plane, which were also identified by Raman as dumortierite (figure 3).

Figure 3. Unusual pale blue to colorless needles of dumortierite were also observed in the rock crystal quartz. Photomicrograph by Nathan Renfro; horizontal field of view 2.24 mm.
Blue color in dumortierite has previously been reported to be caused mainly by Fe2+-Ti4+ charge-transfer (see http://minerals.gps.caltech.edu/FILES/Visible/dumortierite/Index.htm). The chemical composition of the blue and colorless dumortierite inclusions was analyzed by LA-ICP-MS to look for any prominent differences that might explain the variance in observed color. The most significant difference was in the magnesium content, which was almost 10 times higher in the colorless dumortierite inclusions (1070 ppma, compared to 127 ppma Mg in the blue dumortierite). While more research is needed to fully understand the role this higher magnesium content has on color, the authors speculate that the titanium preferentially charge-compensates with magnesium instead of iron. If there is not enough excess titanium relative to magnesium, it may not be possible for titanium to pair with divalent iron, and this would prevent the formation of blue color.

These are the first examples of prismatic blue and colorless dumortierite inclusions in rock crystal quartz we have encountered. @topic:1


Publish Year: - Title: Jade Description Abstract: Jadeite jade, often cut as a cabochon, is one of the most valuable and culturally significant gemstones. - Courtesy Mason-Kay Fine Jade Jewelry

Among gemologists, jadeite and nephrite have long been considered the materials that may be referred to as jade. More recently some green omphacite has also been included in the definition. These are actually metamorphic rocks made up of tiny interlocking mineral crystals which make the gems exceptionally tough.

Jadeite can be semi-transparent to opaque and comes in a wide range of attractive colors: many shades of green, yellow, and reddish orange, plus white, gray, black, brown, and lavender (often a light purple or light grayish violet). The coloration is often unevenly distributed, giving jadeite an interesting visual texture carvers use to create imaginative and intriguing effects.

Nephrite ranges from translucent to opaque and can be light to dark green, yellow, brown, black, gray, or white. Its colors tend to be more muted than jadeite.

Jadeite jade comes in a variety of colors. Green is the most valuable. - Courtesy Mason-Kay Fine Jade Jewelry
Omphacite has typically been thought of as dark green to black. However, some green omphacite has been seen in the GIA laboratory that not only has a similar color to fine green jadeite but also has the same gemological properties as jadeite. Omphacite can be identified by its Raman spectra, which requires advanced testing techniques.

Modern gemologists use the word “jade” as a generic term for nephrite, jadeite, and under certain conditions green omphacite. “Fei Cui” is a traditional Chinese term for jadeite jade but is not universally accepted. Today the term is used in many places in Asia to refer to several materials including jadeite, kosmochlor and omphacite.

Rough jadeite jade often takes the form of boulders. This one from Myanmar weighs 23 metric tons.
These gems have been linked throughout history. In fact, the term jade has sometimes been erroneously applied to a number of gems and ornamental materials resembling jade, and even some manmade equivalents. @topic:9


Publish Year: - Title: James Shigley Abstract: The Face of GIA Research

For almost 40 years, Dr. James Shigley has been widely recognized as the face of GIA research. Since 1982, he has represented the Institute around the world, lecturing and publishing extensively on topics related to diamonds, colored stones, and gem identification.

After graduating from the University of California, Berkeley, Shigley served on active duty in the U.S. Army from 1971 to 76, eventually retiring from the Army Reserve as a lieutenant colonel. He joined GIA as a senior research scientist after earning a doctorate in geology from Stanford University. He quickly proved his mettle in the laboratory, becoming manager of the research department within three years of his arrival. In 1987, he became GIA’s director of research; today, he serves as the Institute’s first and only distinguished research fellow.

Shigley has been a prolific contributor to gemological research. As of September 2014, he has authored or coauthored 59 articles for Gems & Gemology alone; 29 of those have received the journal’s Most Valuable Article award. He serves as a contributing editor for G&G, and as the editor of the G&G in Review book series. His studies have identified methods of separating natural from synthetic diamonds, documented important gem localities, and established characteristics of HPHT synthetic diamonds. Shigley was instrumental to the creation of the GIA Gem Project, a collection of 2,800 stones (representing 225 minerals) from the Edward J. Gübelin Collection that is available as a free research and identification resource to the trade and the public.

Shigley has mentored countless GIA staff members during his 32-year tenure, passing the torch of practical skills and hard-won experience to the next generation of gemologists. His contributions have earned industry recognition, including AGA’s Antonio Bonnano Award for Excellence in Gemology (2007) and GIA’s Staff of the Year award (2006). Jim Shigley’s work has solidified the Institute’s reputation for groundbreaking research. @topic:8


Publish Year: - Title: Aquamarine Quality Factors Abstract: This 3.74-ct. princess-cut aquamarine’s prized medium-blue color is highlighted by the 22 diamonds that surround it. The ring is an original, copyrighted design by Zoltan David. - Robert Weldon, courtesy of Nancy's Collection

                      In the commercial market, aquamarine competes with treated blue topaz for attention, but fine aquamarine sells for far more than equivalent-quality treated blue topaz.

Color
Aquamarine’s color range is very narrow: It can be blue, very slightly greenish blue, greenish blue, very strongly greenish blue, or green-blue. The gem’s most valuable color is a dark blue to slightly greenish blue with moderately strong intensity. In general, the purer and more intense the blue color, the more valuable the stone. Most aquamarine is a light greenish blue.

	This superb 32.10-carat heart-shaped Brazilian aquamarine shows the gem's finest color, a moderately strong, medium-dark, very slightly greenish blue. - Courtesy M.Chung Gemstones and Fine Jewelry Co.
Although some buyers prefer the more greenish natural color, most of the aquamarine in the market was heat-treated to give it more of a pure blue.

Fashioned aquamarines often have to be fairly large—generally over 5 carats—to show intense, dark color. Although small gems are rarely saturated enough to be attractive, stones from some mines in Africa—Nigeria, Madagascar, and Mozambique, for example—are known for intense color in sizes under 5 carats. For this reason, smaller, top-color stones might sell for more per carat than larger stones of the same color.

Clarity
Most faceted aquamarines are eye-clean. Some crystals might contain liquid inclusions, but clarity characteristics are few or absent in most finished gems. Stones with eye-visible inclusions are usually fashioned into cabochons, beads, or carvings.

	Carvings are popular for translucent to opaque aquamarine. - Courtesy Neoart Peru

	Faceted aquamarine usually has no eye-visible inclusions. - Courtesy Dudley Blauwet
In some beryl crystals, there are enough parallel inclusions—usually long hollow or liquid-filled tubes—to allow cutters to fashion the rough to show a cat’s-eye.

	This very greenish aquamarine cabochon has enough parallel inclusions to display a cat’s-eye.
Cut
Aquamarines can be cut into almost any shape, but cutters often fashion them as emerald cuts or as round or oval brilliants. The rough is fairly plentiful, so well-cut stones are fairly common. The gemstone’s hardness and transparency make it popular with designers, artists, and carvers. Gem sculptors use aquamarine for fantasy cuts and ornamental objects.

	Aquamarine can be cut in a variety of standard shapes.

	Emerald cuts are among the common aquamarine cutting styles. - Courtesy ICA
The gem is pleochroic, which means it shows different colors in different crystal directions—in the case of aquamarine, they’re near-colorless and strong blue. Fortunately, the blue pleochroic color corresponds with the cutting orientation that retains the most weight, with the table facet aligned parallel to the length of the crystal.

	Aquamarine is a great medium for artistic designer cuts like this 10.37-carat beauty. - Lydia Dyer, gem courtesy John Dyer & Co.

	Aquamarine that’s too included for faceting is often carved and set into designer jewelry. - © GIA and Tino Hammid
Carat Weight
Aquamarine crystals come in sizes from very small to very large—some even up to 100 lbs. (45 kg). While large stones are readily available, it’s difficult to use them in jewelry, so there’s less demand for them, except as center stones. As a result, per-carat prices tend to decrease for sizes above 25 carats.

Many very large aquamarine crystals have been discovered. The largest Brazilian aquamarine on record was found in 1910, in Minas Gerais, Brazil. It weighed 244 lbs. (110 kg) and measured 19 in. (48 cm) long and 15 in. (38 cm) in diameter. @topic:3


Publish Year: - Title: De Beers’ Sight: Recovery or Overload? Abstract: De Beers’ CEO Phillipe Mellier noted that demand for both rough  and polished diamonds has improved. The company released its largest sight in many months in April, citing the upturn. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA

	De Beers reportedly raised rough diamond prices by an average of 2% at its April 4-8 sight cycle. The $660 million total announced by De Beers was larger than expected.

	The price increase caused some concern in the market from manufacturers who have just begun to return to profit after nearly two years of struggle. Since there have been no reports of clients refusing goods as they did last year, however, most were still on the profitable side and have accepted the deals.

	De Beers’ CEO Philippe Mellier said polished diamond demand has been reasonably positive at the wholesale level and that “rough demand is significantly stronger” than last year. He hinted that the May 16-20 cycle will be smaller because seasonal demand usually declines mid-year.

	Alrosa announced it was sitting on a 22 million carat (valued at $2.5 billion) stockpile of rough left from last year, when it cut back sales by nearly 25%. The company will reduce its mining output this year by 5% to 7%, but noted that it sold $780 million worth of rough in January and February, slightly less than De Beers by value.

	Some analysts worry that De Beers and Alrosa may be compromising the recovering market by selling more rough than world demand warrants.

	In addition, the credit situation in the diamond industry continues to tighten even as the trade recovers from the difficulties of last year. Bankers − and most diamond people − acknowledge that the recovery is fragile, based on a reduction of excess inventory and firming polished prices.

	This week, Standard Chartered Bank, which holds about $2 billion in loans to the industry (about 12% of the industry’s total outstanding credit), reportedly informed its clients that they would have to provide collateral for 100% of their outstanding loans or obtain payment insurance for their outstanding balances. The bank said it will not accept receivables as collateral as it (and other banks) had done in the past.

	Standard Chartered blamed its action on an increased regulatory and compliance environment, but the bank has been struggling with non-performing loans across the board, particularly in commodities – especially oil and gas – that have fallen sharply in price since the China bubble burst. Bloomberg reported that the bank is trying to shed or restructure about 40% of its $261 billion loan portfolio. The new CEO also replaced all of the bank’s senior managers.

	The presidents of the Israel Diamond Exchange and International Diamond Manufacturers Association both called for a concerted action to lobby industry lenders to ease credit restrictions at the upcoming World Diamond Congress in May.

	China’s largest jewelry retailer, Chow Tai Fook, reported continued declines in sales, both in Hong Kong and the Mainland. The company said same store sales were down 26% for the quarter that ended March 31, compared to the same period last year.

	COLORED STONES

	Gemfields reports that its April auction of quality emerald rough achieved near record prices: 469,000 carats sold for $33 million or about $70.68 per carat.

	CEO Ian Harebottle said the company was shifting its marketing strategy to get closer to retail markets. It did not renew the three-year contract with actress Mila Kunis, who it previously featured in its advertising. The company is putting that money into partnering with top retailers, such as Bergdorf Goodman in the U.S., to promote emerald and ruby jewelry, much of it under the Faberge brand it acquired two years ago.

	The company earned $12.3 million on revenues of $171.4 million in 2015, selling 30.1 million carats of emeralds from its Kagem mine and 8.4 million carats of ruby from its Montepuez mine. Harebottle said the company is committing 20% of its revenues to growing demand, 11% on advertising, and 9% on exploration, with projects in Colombia, Sri Lanka, Madagascar and Ethiopia.

	AUCTIONS

	This spring auctions will bring potentially record-breaking sales of fancy colored diamonds and a major ruby to market.

	On April 20 in New York, Christies will offer the 15.99 ct. Jubilee Ruby set by Verdura and a 10.07 ct. Fancy Intense purple pink diamond, graded by GIA. On May 18 in Geneva, Christie’s will auction the 14.62 ct. Fancy Vivid Blue Oppenheimer diamond, which is expected to bring $38 to $45 million.

	Sotheby’s Geneva auction on May 17 will offer the “Unique Pink” a 15.38 ct. GIA-graded Fancy Vivid pink diamond, which is expected to sell for $28 to $38 million. And, earlier this month, the 10.1 ct. De Beers Millennium 4 Fancy Vivid blue diamond brought $3.1 million per carat ($31.8 million total) at Sotheby’s Hong Kong sale. The same sale brought a $2.47 million price for a Fancy Vivid orange diamond and a similar price for an imperial jadeite ring with matching earrings. @topic:7


Publish Year: 2022 Title: Market Reaction to the Pandemic: Insights from Exhibitors Abstract: Figure 1. The majority of the 35 exhibitors surveyed have a small-scale business and more than 20 years in the industry.
When COVID-19 evolved from a regional crisis to a global pandemic, the gem and jewelry trade abruptly paused for a short period and then gradually recovered to the pre-pandemic level. To investigate the trade’s reaction, the impact on business, and market trends over the past two years, the authors took advantage of the Tucson show to survey the exhibitors.
This brief report presents outcomes from written surveys conducted with 35 randomly selected AGTA and GJX show exhibitors. The survey consists of two portions: general information about the business, and six pandemic- and market trend-related questions. All 35 exhibitors based their responses on their own experiences, with a very limited number of “not applicable” answers that were not included in the findings.
Nearly all respondents identified themselves as wholesalers, with a couple of exceptions as designers or miners. The authors noticed that some exhibitors played multiple roles: wholesaler, retailer, and sometimes even designer. While traditional roles in the gem and jewelry industry still carry on, the boundaries between them have become blurred. More than 70% of the exhibitors surveyed have fewer than 10 employees, and 85% of them are industry veterans with more than 20 years’ experience in the trade (figure 1). Although the pool is small, it aptly reflects the nature of the gem and jewelry business in general, with small-scale business as the majority, but often with generations of commitment to the industry.
When asked about the impact of the pandemic on their business, most responded that it was most impactful at the beginning of the crisis, but recovery has been quite smooth since then. Some did express concern about the post-pandemic supply issues. Two-thirds of the interviewees stated that more business shifted online over the past two years, resulting in marketing and selling strategy changes (figure 2). Notably, the relatively new businesses, many with less than five years in the trade, often started with more business online than offline. Though sellers mostly embraced online trading of gems and jewelry, some had difficulties capitalizing on it, particularly with colored stones since buyers still prefer to check the quality in person.

Figure 2. Due to mobility restrictions caused by the pandemic, most companies have shifted at least some business online to adapt to the new normal. This often required changes in sourcing, marketing, and selling strategies.
To investigate the types of stone and jewelry sales over the past two years, the authors asked the selected exhibitors to circle the corresponding items, with many circling multiple answers in each category. These questions covered gemstone species, jewelry, precious metal, and pearl types, with the understanding that while diamond sales continue to dominate the market, they are not the focus for the exhibitors surveyed. Not surprisingly, the “big three” still dominate sales, with sapphire leading the trend (figure 3, top), and tourmaline and spinel immediately following the big three. As for jewelry types, rings and earrings lead the way (figure 3, middle). Yellow gold still sells the best, with platinum as the second best seller (figure 3, bottom). Several pearl dealers circled their best sellers, but the authors found that overall sales were quite evenly distributed among the four major cultured pearl types.

Figure 3. The best sellers over the past two years during the pandemic, according to gemstone species, jewelry type, and precious metal type.
As traceability is a hot topic in the trade, the authors also asked two related questions about whether respondents noticed increased consumer concern on traceability. If they answered yes, they were asked whether it affected how they do business. The result shows that about two-thirds of them noticed the concern, and two-thirds of those who noticed the concern did not feel that it affected their business (figure 4).

Figure 4. Many of the exhibitors surveyed noticed an increase in consumer concern about traceability, but the majority of them said it does not impact their business.
As the world enters the post-pandemic era, it is worthwhile to continue monitoring how the market reacts to the changes and how tradespeople adapt to the new normal. @topic:7


Publish Year: - Title: De Beers’ Sight Highlights Market Disarray Abstract: Many diamond dealers are facing high rough inventories in all sizes and qualities, except the largest goods. Some estimates place the stock overhang at three to four months. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA

	De Beers’ Oct. 5-8 sight was estimated at between $250 million and $400 million, but that figure is complicated by a significant percentage of refusals and, reportedly, discounted side deals the company made with several large clients shortly beforehand.

	While the sight disappointed most De Beers’ sightholders, who were expecting further cuts in prices (they wanted at least 10% across the board), a core group of clients holding huge inventories opposed any price cuts out of fear of devaluing their stocks. There was little consensus regarding the original allocation totals once the sight was over, and agreement only that most manufacturers had little appetite for rough that could not be cut profitably. Dealers were also reportedly unhappy over reports that De Beers had sold previously refused goods to certain clients at reduced prices.

	The issue most dealers are facing is high rough inventories in all sizes and qualities, except the largest goods. Some estimates place the stock overhang at three to four months.

	This was the final De Beers’ sight for goods destined to be sold for Christmas. The Nov. 2-6 sight occurs just on the eve of India’s Diwali festival, when diamond companies traditionally close for two or three weeks. Analysts expect many Indian diamond operations to remain closed after Diwali, potentially through the rest of the year.

	De Beers has sold 26% fewer diamonds into the market during the first half of 2015, compared to the same period last year, and will likely end the year selling about 28 million carats, nearly 5 million down from last year’s total of 32.7 million carats.

	Alrosa, the Russian producer that is the world’s largest by volume, said its first half sales this year totaled just under 18 million carats with revenues of $2.1 billion, which is close to last year’s results. The company said, however, that revenues will likely fall short of that total in the second half because of the September price cuts and a provision that allows clients to refuse or defer purchases.

	Alrosa sells the vast majority of its production – 38.3 million carats last year – in regular sales similar to De Beers’ sights, through contracted sales and tenders.

	The Russian company’s sales last year totaled $3.7 billion, but because of the diamond market difficulties, the company sold just over $232 million to Gokhran, the Russian government stockpiling agency, instead of selling into the market. Gokhran, in turn, holds periodic auctions of its diamond stocks.

AUCTIONS

	Both Christie’s and Sotheby’s reported that the market remains robust for ultra-high-end jewels as the fall season got under way.

	One lot in Sotheby’s Oct. 7 Hong Kong auction set a record: A 27.68 carat (ct.) Kashmir sapphire achieved a record per-carat price $242,145 ($6.7 million total). Two other top lots included a natural gray pearl necklace that sold for $5.26 million and the Viscountess Harcourt Diamond Necklace, produced by Tiffany & Co. in the 1880s, went back to Tiffany for $1.55 million.

	First half jewelry sales for Christies ($313.2 million) and Sotheby’s ($286 million) were a little short of last year’s pace. Looking at the pre-sale estimates, expectations for top stones have eased from last year’s record prices ($120,000 to $130,000 per carat for large D flawless, compared to $140,000 to $160,000 last year). However, last year saw some ultra-extraordinary pieces come up for auction.

	On Nov. 10, Christie’s will auction a 16.08 ct. cushion-shaped Fancy Vivid pink diamond, which is expected to realize $23 to $28 million. As a run-up to that sale, the auction house compiled a gallery of extraordinary fancy colored diamonds it has sold in recent years.

HONG KONG

	The prevailing takeaway from the Sept. 16-23 Hong Kong Gem and Jewellery Show is that business exceeded low expectations.

	In diamonds, there was a lot of inter-dealer buying at the onset of the show – mainly stronger firms buying goods at deep discounts from dealers who were in difficulty and needed cash.

	Actual buying from retailers and jewelry manufacturers was above expectations and generally concentrated into very specific quality categories (i,e. SI and good I1 clarities) for very specific inventory needs. All told, business was down 40% to 70% from last year for most dealers.

	More buyers than usual came from the U.S., Middle East and Europe, presumably to take advantage of perceived bargains. Apart from the inter-dealer activity already mentioned, there was not a great deal of give on prices, meaning that many deals were not completed until the very end of the show. As a result, manufacturers were able to get acceptable prices for the goods they sold and buyers could get some needed inventory.

	High-end dealers were showing fewer large colorless stones, but more fancy intense and vivid yellows.

	Colored stones were in demand, but many buyers felt prices for better quality ruby, sapphire and emerald were unrealistic, given the reduced demand from China and other key gem markets. This pushed demand for substitute colored gems, such as rubellite and spinel for ruby, Tanzanite for sapphire and peridot and green tourmaline for emerald. @topic:7


Publish Year: 2016 Title: Kämmererite Cabochons from India Abstract: Figure 1. This 57 mm wide kämmererite rough and 0.57 ct faceted stone are from the Kop Daglari Mountains of Turkey. Photo by Jaroslav Hyršl.

Kämmererite is a purple variety of clinochlore, a mica-like Mg-Al-silicate with the formula (Mg,Fe)5Al[(OH)8|AlSi3O10]. Its color is caused by chromium. Kämmererite is always found in fractures of ultrabasic rocks, usually with chromite ore. The only known locality for transparent crystals is the Kop Krom chromite mine in the Kop Daglari Mountains of Turkey. Transparent crystals from this area (figure 1) can measure up to 2 cm. Some of this material has been faceted as rare collector gemstones (H. Bank and H. Rodewald, “Schleifwürdiger, roter, durchsichtiger Chlorit: Kämmererit,” Zeitschrift der Deutschen Gemmologischen Gesellschaft, Vol. 28, No. 1, 1979, 39–40, in German).

An unknown location in India recently yielded massive kämmererite that was used to carve interesting cabochons (figure 2); 10 such samples were examined in this study. The cabochons have an attractive light to dark purple color; some thinner pieces are translucent. Some of the material shows a folded texture, and this type is visually similar to charoite, a well-known ornamental stone from Siberia. The measured refractive index (RI) of the new kämmererite is approximately 1.57, very close to charoite, but clinochlore has a much lower Mohs hardness (about 2.5, rather than charoite’s 5–6). This new kämmererite is inert under UV light, but white layers in the samples show creamy fluorescence under both long-wave and short-wave UV. Raman spectroscopy revealed a characteristic group of peaks at 3877, 4063, 4175, 4500, and 4920 cm–1 in the spectrum (figure 3), confirming the material’s identity. Visible spectra further supported this conclusion. The amount of new massive kämmererite rough is unknown, and the material may remain rare.

Figure 2. These kämmererite cabochons, with widths of 27 mm and 21 mm, are from an undisclosed location in India. Photo by Jaroslav Hyršl.

Figure 3. Raman spectra showing characteristic peaks of kämmererite at 3877, 4063,
4175, 4500, and 4920 cm–1. @topic:1


Publish Year: - Title: Optical Effects of Phenomenal Cabochons Abstract: Spectrolite, the trade name for labradorite from Finland, exhibits the phenomenon labradorescence − a broad flash of color across the surface caused by the internal structure of the stone. Similar to flashes of color in the Northern Lights, the blue and green hues in this spectrolite are fantastic. Left: labradorite from Madagascar.  Center and right: spectrolite from Finland. Courtesy of Black Star Trading Company, Flagstaff, Arizona. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA

The definition of a phenomenon as “an object or aspect known through the senses,” according to Webster’s dictionary, might explain why some gemstones are called phenomenal. Or it could be because these gems are “exceptional, unusual or abnormal.”

In reality, however, it is how the structure, inclusions and properties of these gemstones interact with light to return an unusual visual effect, or phenomenon, in the parlance of gemology, that make them phenomenal.

Regardless, we experience these gemstones as fascinating and recognize that they are, in fact, extraordinary.

There are several varieties of opal: black, white, crystal, jelly, boulder and boulder matrix, to name a few. Opals can be found in Queensland, New South Wales and South Australia. This black opal cabochon has excellent play-of-color, brightness and pattern. Courtesy of Lightning Ridge Opal, Glendora, California. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA
Phenomena Caused by Structure
Opal, labradorite and moonstone form in microscopic layers of material that are successively stacked upon each other, giving rise to phenomena based on these unique structures. When light interacts with the different structures of gem material it causes flashes of color.
Let’s see how their different structures interact with light properties.

Opal is made up of millions of tiny silica spheres stacked in layers and held together by a mixture of slightly different silica and water. When light interacts with the silica spheres, a diffraction of light causes flashes of spectral colors. These colors depend on the size of the silica spheres. Smaller spheres produce blue to green spectral colors and larger spheres produce red. This phenomenon is called play-of-color.

Labradorite is formed by alternating layers of two feldspars that have different chemical compositions. When light interacts with labradorite, the diffraction of light causes the phenomenon known as labradorescence. The perceived colors are dependent on the thickness of the alternating layers and their refractive indices.

Moonstone is composed of two different types of feldspars that vary in thickness and regularity. In moonstone, the light is scattered in many directions giving it the characteristic cloudy bluish-white light, known as adularescence.

Iridescence happens when light passes through a thin, transparent film that has a different refractive index from the surrounding material. The color patterns in soap bubbles or on a thin film of oil on water are examples of iridescence. Pearl nacre and mother-of-pearl can have just the right structure to display iridescent optical effects. Orient is a special term used to describe pearl iridescence.

This chrysoberyl ring features a very fine cat’s-eye, which visually divides the cabochon in half and reflects a light and dark color called “milk and honey.” These attributes make the cat’s-eye chrysoberyl a collector gemstone. Courtesy Richard Krementz Gemstones. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA
Phenomena Caused by Inclusions
A star or cat’s eye is the type of phenomena caused by inclusions of tiny bands of parallel needles or hollow tubes. When the bands of needles or hollow tubes are parallel, it’s called chatoyancy or cat’s eye. When they cross, a star is formed, called asterism. For best results in star and cat’s eye material, the base of the cabochon should be cut parallel to the inclusions to produce an even effect across the dome of the cabochon. Many gemstones possess the phenomena of chatoyancy and asterism: chrysoberyl, ruby, sapphire, spinel, garnet, tourmaline, diopside and quartz are examples.
Aventurescence is a type of phenomena caused by light reflecting from small, eye-visible, plate-like inclusions of copper or sometimes hematite inclusions in sunstone feldspar. (In sunstone feldspar the aventurescence is also known in the trade as schiller). In aventurine quartz, spangles of green mica produce the glittery effect and may also give the gem its perceived body color.

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Phenomena Caused by Light Properties
Color change is another type of phenomena that occurs most dramatically in alexandrite. Chromium causes alexandrite’s color, which accounts for a close balance between red and green, varying with the type of viewing light. The finest Russian alexandrites appear green in daylight and under fluorescent light. Under incandescent light, alexandrites appear red. This phenomenon coined the romantic phrase “emerald by day, ruby by night.” Although alexandrite, named after the Russian tsar Alexander II, is the most valued color change gem, certain sapphire, spinel and garnet varieties can also show color change.
Why Are Some Gems Fashioned as Cabochons?
The term cabochon comes from the French word “caboche,” meaning “head” and refers to a gemstone that has been shaped and polished as opposed to faceted. It is also common to carve softer stones as cabochons since minute scratches show much less on a cabochon than on a faceted stone.
Light properties and opacity — the ability of light to pass through the gem, are the main factors that come into play when deciding how to cut a gemstone. If a gemstone is opaque it is usually fashioned as a cabochon. Stones with asterism and chatoyancy are cut as domed cabochons to best portray the fine, needle-like inclusions that produce these two phenomena, which would otherwise not be visible in a faceted cut.

The final decision ultimately falls on the lapidary artist or the client’s preference, but they are often fashioned into cabochons to show them off to their best — phenomenal — advantage. @topic:13


Publish Year: 2021 Title: GSA Meeting – GIA Session Abstract: Figure 1. Speaking at the GSA annual meeting, Shiyun Jin of GIA presents his research on the rapid diffusion of copper in Oregon sunstones. Photo by Robert Weldon.
A session of presentations on gemological research topics, organized by GIA, took place during the recent annual meeting of the Geological Society of America (GSA) in Portland, Oregon (October 10–13, 2021). Aaron Celestian of the Natural History Museum of Los Angeles began the oral presentations with a description of a famous piece of furniture—the Borghese-Windsor Cabinet—created in Italy around 1620. The large, multi-drawer wooden cabinet was decorated with semi-precious gems, including agate and lapis lazuli. A study of the geographic origin of the agates indicated that most were from the Idar-Oberstein area of Germany, with the remainder from another source. The early construction date of the cabinet makes Brazil an unlikely source for the agate; another possibility would have been India.
Cisil Badur of the Department of Geosciences of Auburn University in Alabama reported on plagioclase sunstones from the Columbia River basalts in Oregon that exhibit a schiller effect due to oriented copper inclusions. Argon-argon geochronological data indicate that the sunstones are younger in age than the host basalt. The author suggests this age discrepancy might be due to argon loss over geological time from the feldspar crystals, or it could be explained by the host basalt having been formed during a younger period of regional volcanism. A second talk on copper in Oregon sunstones was given by Shiyun Jin of GIA (figure 1). Rapid diffusion of copper in labradorite feldspars can induce red or green colors and aventurescence depending on the size of the exsolved copper particles. These tiny particles produce a red color by selective absorption of incident light or, in larger specimens, a green color by scattering red and orange light.
Rhiana Henry of the Department of Earth, Ocean and Atmospheric Sciences of the University of British Columbia investigated the sodium and water contents of the main varieties of beryl to develop a method to calculate water contents in beryl based on the more easily measured sodium contents. Rachelle Turnier of the Geoscience Department of the University of Wisconsin in Madison investigated oxygen isotope contents of sapphire from a variety of primary and secondary sources in Montana. She found a wide range of δ18O values in the corundum samples. This large range suggests that the Montana sapphire deposits originated from corundum formation in a variety of protolith source rocks. Aaron Palke of GIA studied what was initially thought might represent a rare new group of sapphire from the Rock Creek deposit in Montana. Although displaying a crystal shape and inclusions typical of sapphires from this area, these new sapphires exhibited low iron and gallium compositions. Dr. Palke emphasized the need for caution in using trace-element contents to decipher the geological origins of gem corundum and reported that these pale or yellow-colored sapphires do not represent a new group of material. Rather, they are typical Rock Creek sapphires that exhibit very low iron and gallium contents.
Zinc-enriched, fracture-filled, and fibrous overgrowths on classic Paraíba tourmaline crystals from Brazil were described by Darrell Henry from the Department of Geology and Geophysics at Louisiana State University in Baton Rouge. Such features are not observed in cuprian tourmalines from Nigeria or Mozambique, and thus they may be diagnostic of the original Paraíba material. Yicen Liu of the Gems and Technological Material Laboratory of Tongji University in Shanghai detailed the color mechanism and effects of heat treatment on spectral features and color for pink spinel from the famous Kuh-i-Lal deposit in Tajikistan. Che Shen of the Munsell Color Science Laboratory at the Rochester Institute of Technology described a method to calculate the color appearance of optically uniaxial colored gemstones.
Gabriela Farfan of the Department of Mineral Sciences of the Smithsonian Institution in Washington, DC discussed the effect of environmental factors on freshwater pearl mineralogy and chemistry. In a study of a lake in Kentucky, the pearl samples recorded oxygen isotope ratios and crystallographic signatures that could be correlated with seasonal variations in lake temperature, dissolved oxygen, and light levels at a one-meter depth. Chunhui Zhou of GIA reported the discovery of disordered dolomite crystals in the central internal structure of a natural pearl from a Cassius species mollusk.
Matthew Hardman of GIA discussed the use of multidimensional statistical analysis of the peak intensities of certain visible and near-infrared spectral features of irradiated green diamonds with and without green radiation stains. This type of spectral analysis offers a new approach to understanding the lattice defects in diamonds that result from natural and artificial radiation exposure. Roy Bassoo of GIA reported on a study of deuterium-hydrogen ratios in the low water content of nominally anhydrous minerals (such as olivine, enstatite, and garnet) found as inclusions in diamonds from the Guiana Shield in South America. This isotopic information could provide evidence for the geological conditions of diamond formation and growth in the upper mantle. Ira Litvak-Kochavi of the Department of Chemical Sciences at Ariel University in Israel discussed the results of a study of the influence on paramagnetic defect centers in diamond at the high temperatures (900°C or higher) that occur during facet polishing.

Figure 2. A poster illustrating the spectroscopic characteristics of blue spinel before and after heat treatment. Photo by Cathy Jonathan.

Figure 3. Dona Dirlam (left) and Barbara Dutrow (right) pose in front of a map highlighting colored stone and pearl sources utilized in seventeenth-century Indian jewelry. Photo by Robert Weldon.
In addition to the talks, GIA staff members prepared several poster presentations for the session. Jennifer Stone-Sundberg reviewed a quantitative description of the causes of color in corundum in terms of six major chromophore elements. Stephanie Persaud described five diamonds that exhibited a temporary color change from gray to yellow or blue when subjected to extremely low, liquid-nitrogen temperatures. Wasura Soonthorntantikul discussed the spectroscopic characteristics of both unheated and heat-treated blue spinels (figure 2). Heating tended to produce a less desirable grayish blue color. Paul Johnson reported on several light blue to purple type Ia diamonds that owe their color to a lattice defect associated with artificial irradiation. Dona Mary Dirlam presented a map that showed localities in Central Asia, Southeast Asia, Africa, and Sri Lanka (as well as Europe and the Americas) that were the sources of colored stones and pearls used for jewelry purposes in India during the seventeenth century (figure 3). Troy Ardon reviewed the different spectral features found in type I and type II pink diamonds. Evan Smith discussed the discovery of metallic inclusions with a heavy iron isotopic composition in high-quality type IIa colorless diamonds. This composition is attributed to the subduction of iron minerals formed by serpentinization of oceanic peridotite. Yusuke Katsurada described a study of iron and copper absorptions in the spectrum of blue/green Paraíba tourmalines and a method to determine whether a particular elbaite would correctly be classified as a cuprian tourmaline.

Figure 4. Robert Weldon talks with visitors at the GIA booth. Photo by Cathy Jonathan.

Figure 5. Nathan Renfro (left) and James Shigley (center) chat with conference attendees. Photo by Cathy Jonathan.
Overall, the 2021 GSA annual meeting saw strong attendance and notable interest in the gemology sessions and exhibits (figures 4 and 5). The 2022 event is scheduled for October 9–12 in Denver. @topic:2


Publish Year: - Title: Tucson 2015: Gemologists Share the Latest Research Activities Abstract: GIA field gemologist Stanislas Detroyat, lower right, visits a sapphire mining pit worked by a group of artisanal miners near Bepeha village in the Ilakaka sapphire mining area in Madagascar. Photo by Vincent Pardieu/GIA

                      GIA’s research program has grown significantly in the past decade – in both the number of full-time researchers and the scope of activities. The team is comprised of nearly 50 staff members and consultants whose extensive academic and gem-testing backgrounds support the Institute’s wide-ranging research goals. Dr. James Shigley, distinguished research fellow at GIA in Carlsbad, presented an overview of GIA research activities at the 2015 AGTA GemFair in Tucson, Arizona.

He began with a summary of GIA’s major research efforts: to collect and characterize new gem materials to support GIA’s gem identification capabilities; to conduct experiments to determine new methods for identifying treated diamond; to develop standards for calibrating instruments across GIA’s gem identification and grading laboratories; and to examine the appearance of the major categories of fancy-shape diamonds.

One of the most important activities is to build GIA’s gem database by cataloging information from gems submitted to GIA for testing and those collected by GIA field gemology teams at the source in locations around the world. GIA has routinely conducted field expeditions – nearly 60 trips to 16 countries in the last five years – to collect material. Last year, researchers traveled to Brazil, Cambodia, Madagascar, Malawi, Mozambique, Myanmar, Sri Lanka, Thailand, Vietnam and Zambia.

“Travelling to these countries and collecting gem specimens directly at the source – seeing them come from the earth – ensures they have not been treated and are not synthetic,” Shigley said. Knowing without question where a gem was sourced and understanding its distinctive characteristics also helps researchers make country-of-origin determinations, he said.

Researchers archive the rough specimens they collect, characterize them using specialized instrumentation, then record the results in a database shared with all GIA laboratories.

Shigley said one of the biggest challenges is how to identify gem treatments. In a recent study, researchers collected data on unheated (brown) zoisite, and then heated the gems to known temperatures to examine differences in color and spectra after the treatment. The heated gems turned a dark blue and purple color – a variety of zoisite known as tanzanite. Researchers examined the visible spectra and inclusions then compared this information to the data from the same stone before it was heated.

These experiments determined that visible spectra are inconclusive in determining whether a tanzanite has been heat treated or not; the absence of three pleochroic colors may suggest that a tanzanite is unheated, but it can be difficult to observe all three colors in a cut stone; and unaltered fluid inclusions are perhaps the best indication that a stone has not been heat treated, while ruptured fluid inclusions are an indication of heat treatment.

Shigley explained the importance of accurate and efficient instruments in gemological research and the GIA laboratory. Instrumentation at all GIA lab locations are regularly monitored and calibrated to ensure consistent measurements. He mentioned the GIA DiamondCheck, a device introduced in early 2014 that differentiates natural diamonds from those that are potentially synthetic or color-treated, as an example. GIA, working with the World Federation of Diamond Bourses (WFDB), has made the DiamondCheck available on a lease basis at no cost to 20 diamond bourses and industry organizations around the world.

Shigley also reviewed the progress on a cut evaluation system for fancy-shape diamonds. GIA introduced the cut grading system for standard round brilliant diamonds (in the D-to-Z color scale and the Flawless-to-I3 clarity range) in 2006. Since then, the research team has investigated the cut and appearance for the most common fancy-shape diamonds. Researchers interviewed more than 440 experts from different backgrounds in Antwerp, Hong Kong, Mumbai, New York, Tel Aviv and Tucson in 2014. Participants were asked to examine fancy-shape diamonds and record what they saw to help determine industry preferences for certain aspects of diamond appearance.

A GIA laboratory team continues to evaluate client-submitted stones on a daily basis, noting results in a database that contains more than 9,000 observed fancy-shape diamonds. While no decision has been made to offer a cut grade for these diamonds, some basic concepts for an evaluation system are beginning to be uncovered.

Shigley asked Dr. Christopher M. Breeding, a research scientist at GIA in Carlsbad, to share research updates on diamond fluorescence, and synthetic and irradiated diamonds.

Approximately 35% of diamonds on the D-to-Z color grade scale exhibit fluorescence under long-wave ultraviolet (UV) light, Breeding said. Blue is the most common color, followed by yellow. Of the diamonds that fluoresce, 38% are faint and 62% display medium or strong fluorescence. For the majority of diamonds, the strength of fluorescence does not have an effect on appearance except in rare instances of very strong blue fluorescence. Fluorescence is recorded on a GIA Diamond Grading Report as an identification feature.

There are several UV sources that can be used to detect long-wave fluorescence, including hobbyist UV lamps, mercury UV lamps and LED UV loupes. Variations in wavelength in lamp output can affect the observed fluorescence by shifting the fluorescence color. Breeding said GIA is developing a new long-wave LED UV source with no side-bands, a longer operating life, no glass filter and more consistent illumination conditions between units. This new, compact and light-weight source will help standardize the way fluorescence is observed to ensure accuracy and improve consistency.

Breeding also discussed synthetic diamonds, which have become more prevalent and available in recent years. Companies that create colorless HPHT (high pressure, high temperature) and CVD (chemical vapor deposition) synthetic diamonds have produced relatively large diamonds with good color and clarity, he said. The full results of one of the studies – HPHT diamonds from the AOTC Group – were published in the Spring 2014 issue of Gems & Gemology (G&G).

Next, Breeding shared new research on irradiation color treatments, which he said can be challenging to identify because natural radiation in diamond produces a similar green coloration as when one is treated. In recent years, naturally irradiated, light-colored diamonds have been treated to create slightly more intense colors. Research on diamond color treatments remains an ongoing process, but GIA is constantly exploring new ways to ensure that these treatments can be identified.

Shigley closed by stressing that all of GIA’s research efforts – from field expeditions to experiments – serve to protect those who buy or sell gems. The information gained from research ensures GIA’s grading and identification reports are accurate and complete, and is also shared through education, G&G and GIA’s website.

	Dr. James Shigley, left, and Dr. Christopher M. Breeding. Photos by Kevin Schumacher/GIA @topic:2


Publish Year: 2023 Title: GIA Alumni Collective Abstract: Deeta Thakural, Mélanie Matthes, Yolette and Briana Hodge, and Aldis Hodge are some of GIA’s featured graduates on the Alumni Collective website.
The GIA Alumni Collective offers an exciting new networking platform for GIA graduates. The online community at collective.gia.edu allows a diverse group of users to access both live and self-paced continuing education seminars, join virtual chapters, connect with global alumni, and more. The site also puts GIA alums in the spotlight (see above), celebrating those who uphold the highest standards of GIA’s consumer protection mission.
Deeta Thakural earned her Graduate Gemologist diploma at GIA’s Mumbai campus. As a fourth-generation jeweler, Thakural was drawn to design. Her award-winning collections blend organic shapes and rich hues that reflect the natural world.
Mélanie Matthes studied at GIA’s Carlsbad campus, receiving Graduate Gemologist, Pearls Graduate, and Applied Jewelry Professional diplomas. Her education, fascination with gemology, and love of history led to her career with a well-known auction house, handling some of the world’s most extraordinary jewelry pieces.
Learning from GIA guided each member of the Hodge family down a different path. Aldis, a self-taught watchmaker and business owner, and his sister Briana, a visual specialist and photographer, encouraged their mother, Yolette, to explore her childhood fascination with diamonds and earn a Diamonds Graduate diploma.
Visit https://collective.gia.edu/meet-the-collective.html to read stories from these alumni and more. @topic:6


Publish Year: 2022 Title: Puzzle-Like Gemstone Designs Abstract: Figure 1. Trays of Steve Walters’s unique gemstone carvings displayed at the 2022 AGTA show in Tucson. Photo by Tao Hsu; courtesy of Rare Earth Mining Co.
At the AGTA show, Rare Earth Mining Co. (Trumbull, Connecticut) offered a vast array of fine and unusual gem materials unavailable anywhere else in the trade. Among the opalized wood, Tiffany stone, honeycomb petrified wood, and many other varieties was one of the most expansive Steve Walters collections seen at Tucson (figure 1).
While Walters himself did not attend the show this year, Rare Earth Mining Co. was eager to detail his work for us. A master gemstone carver specializing in one-of-a-kind gemstone designs in Utah, Walters has been in the business for more than 50 years. He creates his carvings for jewelry designers, to help them achieve a unique look.
Walters’s designs feature a perfect mix of traditional and exotic gemstones, expertly paired and carved to create a dramatic shape and color story. All done by hand, Walters uses titanium to bridge together and inlay the different gemstones.
Among the wide variety of gemstones used in Walters’s carvings were onyx; chrysocolla; tourmalinated and rutilated quartz; amethyst, citrine, and ametrine with striking color zones; rock crystal quartz backed with onyx and gold foil; lapis lazuli; various agates; Australian and pink opals; and meteorite. Every piece is finished with a mother-of-pearl backing with his signature (figure 2), ready to be set into a showstopping piece of jewelry.

Figure 2. Left: This citrine “flame” top is connected to a chrysoprase “main body.” Next to the chrysoprase is a portion made of a black chalcedony backing, covered by 24K gold leaf and capped by rock crystal quartz. The piece is completed with a freeform ametrine. Right: All pieces have a mother-of-pearl backing with Steve Walters’s signature. Photos by Kevin Schumacher. @topic:6


Publish Year: - Title: G&G Announces Most Valuable Article Awards Abstract: A matched pair of Kashmir sapphires, approximately 7 carats total. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy of Amba Gem Corporation

Gems & Gemology is pleased to announce the winners of the Dr. Edward J. Gübelin Most Valuable Article Awards for 2019. G&G’s Most Valuable Article Award recognizes the three most groundbreaking articles from the previous year. For the first time in the competition’s history, the ballots were cast by the journal’s editorial review board.
First place went to “Geographic Origin Determination of Blue Sapphire,” by Aaron Palke, Sudarat Saeseaw, Nathan Renfro, Ziyin Sun and Shane McClure. This article, from the Winter 2019 special issue on geographic origin, detailed GIA’s methodology for establishing the origin of blue sapphire.

Aaron Palke is senior manager of research at GIA in Carlsbad, California. He holds a Ph.D. in geology from Stanford University.

Sudarat Saeseaw is a senior manager of colored stone identification at GIA in Bangkok. Saeseaw received her master’s degree in analytical chemistry from Mahidol University in Thailand.

Nathan Renfro is manager of colored stones identification at GIA in Carlsbad. He earned a bachelor’s degree in geology from Appalachian State University in North Carolina.

Ziyin Sun is a research associate in the gem identification department at GIA in Carlsbad. He holds a bachelor’s degree in chemistry and a master’s degree in analytic chemistry from Nanjing University in China.

Shane McClure is global director of colored stone services at GIA in Carlsbad and co-editor of G&G’s Lab Notes section. He is well known for his many articles and lectures on gem identification.

A variety of rubies from Niassa and Montepuez in northern Mozambique that were mined in 2009–2010. They include untreated and heated stones weighing between 1.07 and 4.62 ct. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy of Tommy Wu, Shire Trading Ltd
Two articles tied for second place. From the Summer 2019 issue was “A Decade of Ruby from Mozambique: A Review,” by Wim Vertriest and Sudarat Saeseaw. This report reviewed the mining history, market impact and properties of ruby from northern Mozambique near Montepuez, now the world’s most productive source.
Wim Vertriest is supervisor of field gemology at GIA in Bangkok. Vertriest has visited gemstone mining areas worldwide and oversees the field gemology department and curates GIA’s colored stone research collection in Bangkok. He obtained a master’s degree in geology (geodynamics and geofluids) from KU Leuven in Belgium.

Sudarat Saeseaw was profiled in the first-place entry.

Tranquil reflecting pools add to the symmetry of the Taj Mahal. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA
Sharing second-place honors was “Gemstones in the Era of the Taj Mahal and the Mughals,” by Dona Mary Dirlam, Chris Rogers and Robert Weldon. This Fall 2019 piece explored the gem ornamentation of an iconic landmark, with a look at the jewels of the Mughal dynasty.

Dona Dirlam is librarian emerita at GIA’s Richard T. Liddicoat Gemological Library and Information Center in Carlsbad, California, where she established and expanded the collection known as the world’s leading resource center for gems, gemology and jewelry. Dirlam holds a master’s in geology and geophysics from the University of Wisconsin, Madison.

Chris Rogers is a research librarian at GIA’s Richard T. Liddicoat Gemological Library and Information Center. She holds a bachelor’s degree in English from San Diego State University and a master’s in library and information science from San Jose State University.

Robert Weldon is director of GIA’s Richard T. Liddicoat Gemological Library and Information Center. He is well known for his gem photography and has contributed to scores of international publications and several gem-related books.
Congratulations to all of this year’s winning authors! @topic:2


Publish Year: 2021 Title: Iridescent Abalone Shell Abstract: The surface of this colorfully iridescent abalone shell resembles a topographic map. Photomicrograph by Michaela Stephan; field of view 23.14 mm.

The glowing rainbow-colored image resembling a topographic map in the figure above was captured over the polished surface of an abalone shell. Abalone is a common marine gastropod (univalve mollusk) belonging to the family Haliotidae and the genus Haliotis. Abalone mollusks are distributed along coastal waters worldwide and associated with rocky habitats. They are well known as nutrition-rich seafood, and their ear-shaped shells are also popular in jewelry owing to their uniquely vibrant iridescent nacre known as mother-of-pearl.
Iridescence is an optical phenomenon frequently observed in gem materials, as well as in nacreous shells and pearls. Orient is the specific term for the iridescent effects attributed to interference and diffraction of light in the multilayered aragonite platelet structure. Shells and pearls produced by the Haliotis species generate the highest degree of iridescence, with a full range of distinct rainbow colors. These colors are caused by the fine grating structure created by the thin and closely packed nacre layers, similar to that of a diffraction grating (T.L. Tan et al., “Iridescent colours of the abalone shell (Haliotis glabra),” Journal of Gemmology, Vol. 29, No. 7/8, 2005, pp. 395–399). This extraordinary property lends a charming appearance to shell, pearl, and assembled cultured blister “pearls” (mabe) produced by abalone mollusks and makes them widely popular in the gem and jewelry industry. @topic:5


Publish Year: - Title: Changes Coming for De Beers’ Sights Abstract: These diamonds – 22.32 ct macle, left, and 1.01 ct round brilliant – are from the Oppenheimer Collection. Gift of DeBeers, photo by Robert Weldon/GIA

	This week’s De Beers’ sight is unlikely to feature significant price increases, but company executives are laying out a series of major changes in the sight system that will begin in January.

	First, De Beers will tighten the credit reporting requirements for each client. The company has reportedly backed away from a more strict policy proposed by major industry banks that would sharply reduce a client’s acceptable debt-to-equity ratio. Many major clients, however, continue to struggle with high debts and slow collections and would be unable to meet those more stringent requirements.

	Earlier this year, the banks financing the diamond industry sharply reduced their credit exposure. They began to require that sightholders and other rough dealers fund a minimum of 30% of their purchases themselves, instead of the banks providing 100% funding.  In addition, they trimmed their lending ratio to as little as 60% of receivables.

	Second, the company reportedly introduced new client selection criteria for existing sightholders based, in part, on previous buying. During the past several years, clients have been refusing some rough diamond assortments they believe are too expensive for the market. Some also deferred purchases in hopes that De Beers would lower prices on those goods in future sights.

	De Beers also is reportedly introducing a new class of client, an Accredited Buyer, who will be able to purchase rough that is not contracted to existing clients. It is likely that most of the Accredited Buyers will be selected from buyers who participate in De Beers’ rough diamond auctions. The company already has appointed three sightholders from its auction buyer list.

SYNTHETICS: Concern over the infiltration of undisclosed synthetics into the diamond pipeline has prompted the Indian government, at the urging of the leading Indian industry organization, to propose a 10% import duty on synthetic polished diamonds.

	All, or nearly all, synthetic diamonds are manufactured outside of India. The Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council in India is pushing the extra duty to reduce the price differential between natural and synthetic diamonds, it said in a statement. The government is also considering a 5% duty on synthetic rough diamond imports.

	Although concern over the advent of synthetics is rising following several reported discoveries of undisclosed stones mixed in parcels of naturals, GIA remains confident it can differentiate all lab-grown diamonds from natural stones. In addition, GIA and other firms have developed detection equipment to screen parcels of diamonds that are generally too small to be sent to gemological labs for grading. @topic:7


Publish Year: 2017 Title: New Azurite-Malachite Mixture from Peru Abstract: Figure 1. This polished vein of azurite with malachite and chrysocolla mined from Cochapata measures 8.5 cm wide. Photo by J. Hyršl.

Green malachite, Cu2(CO3)(OH)2, is very popular as an ornamental stone, with huge quantities coming every year from deposits in the Katanga Province of the Democratic Republic of Congo. Blue azurite has a similar chemical composition, Cu3(CO2)2(OH)2, but is much more rare. Cabochons of pure azurite are usually quite dark and not very attractive. A blend of the two is much more appealing for jewelry, but this combination is seldom found. Attractive azurite-malachite mixtures are known mainly from old finds in Bisbee and Morenci, both in the U.S. state of Arizona. There was also a find of malachite-azurite-gypsum mixture from Peru’s Moquegua region in 2012 (J. Hyršl, “Malachite-azurite from Peru,” Journal of Gemmology, Vol. 34, No. 7, 2015, p. 564).

Another new azurite-malachite mixture appeared in 2016 and was originally described as from Puno, in southeastern Peru. In fact, it is from Cochapata, in the Cotabambas Province about 50 km southwest of Cuzco, situated in high mountains. According to a dealer who visited the locality, there are several outcrops of oxidized copper veins on a steep hill exploited by artisanal miners. The veins are up to about 20 cm wide, but the parts most useful for cutting are usually only a few centimeters wide. Several tons of the rough have already been sold in Lima to foreign dealers, with the largest piece weighing 80 kg.

Figure 2. These azurite-malachite cabochons, fashioned from Cochapata material, measure up to 31 mm. Photo by J. Hyršl.
Deep blue azurite is the main mineral found today in Cochapata, accompanied by light green malachite and, less commonly, light blue chrysocolla (figure 1). The most attractive specimens have malachite with a banded structure, but some possess a brecciated structure (figure 2). The rarest samples are stalactites of malachite up to 5 cm in length. Some were sliced perpendicular to the elongated growth direction to prepare very attractive stones with an agate-like structure (figure 3).

Figure 3. A cross-section of a 25-mm-wide malachite double stalactite from Cochapata. The stalactite on the right shows malachite with an azurite center. Photo by J. Hyršl. @topic:1


Publish Year: - Title: Alumni Association Japan President’s Goal: Creating Connections for Graduates Abstract: Dr. Ken Fujita, GIA GG, who counts Paraíba tourmaline and ruby among his favorite colored stones, urges GIA students to take advantage of the “thousands of stones to identify and practice with” in Graduate Gemologist classes. Photo courtesy of Ken Fujita

Most newly appointed executives – especially those who have just taken the reins of their family’s fourth-generation company – expect leadership challenges on every front, from marketing and sales to operations and logistics.
For Dr. Ken Fujita, GIA GG, the early days of his tenure as president and CEO of his family’s Tokyo-based jewelry wholesaling company, Fujita Co., Ltd., were marked by a different sort of leadership trial: the aftermath of the largest earthquake in Japan’s history.
Fujita was leading a late-afternoon corporate meeting with a partner department store in Tokyo on March 11, 2011 when the shaking started.
“I’ve been through thousands of earthquakes in my life, but the size of this shake was unusual,” Fujita says.
He stopped the meeting and led attendees out to the department store retail area, where mannequins were falling, and customers and retail associates were dropping to the ground and crying. Fujita helped people evacuate to the exit floor; he could not return to his home for the next 24 hours.
Transportation was down across the city after the magnitude 9.1 Tōhoku quake, and the tsunami and nuclear disaster that followed only increased the challenges that Japan would face. But Fujita, who was appointed to his position just after the quake, was determined to lead – and guide his employees through the difficult days, weeks and months ahead.
“We worked harder and harder,” he says. “We had to work beyond the crisis, and think beyond the disaster.” Fujita Co., Ltd., which wholesales with department stores – providing colored stones, jewelry and even sales associates – weathered the crisis, maintaining a healthy business through tumultuous times.
Fujita’s sense of responsibility and leadership likely comes from the fact that Fujita Co., Ltd. was entrusted to him by his father, Sadaharu Fujita, whose own grandfather founded the family business in 1920 as a silver ornament and tableware company.
After World War II, Sadaharu Fujita’s father, Teiichi, expanded the company to jewelry wholesale, and when he took over, he began to import colored stones.
Sadaharu Fujita – who also served as president of the International Colored Stone Association from 1991-1995, instituting the NET system of treatment and enhancement identification – planned to pass the business to his son, Ken, with one qualification: he had to attend GIA to earn his Graduate Gemologist diploma and polish his English skills.

Dr. Ken Fujita, lower right, still has the first-place medal he and his classmates won at a campus-wide volleyball tournament at GIA’s Carlsbad campus in 2002. Fujita, who serves as president of the GIA Alumni Association Japan, says that the friendships he made during his time as a student are one of the highlights of his GIA experience.
Ken Fujita, who already had a PhD in organic chemistry from Tokyo University of Science, moved to Carlsbad and earned his GG in 2002, which he followed up with jewelry design and business classes. He found that learning about such a large variety of gemstones in just six months was both helpful and efficient.
“It was a great opportunity to train my identification skills,” Fujita says. “There are thousands of stones to identify and practice with. In the real world of business, you can’t make mistakes – but the courses offer you the opportunity to make those mistakes and learn from them.”
But for Fujita, the best parts of his GIA experience were the friendships and connections that began there, and continue today.
“Those relationships are so important and meaningful,” he says.
Fujita was appointed as president of the GIA Alumni Association’s Japan chapters in 2010 after his mentor, Yoshiko Doi, suggested it. He is committed to helping foster relationships and networking opportunities between other GIA graduates across Japan.

GIA President Susan Jacques, left, joined Dr. Ken Fujita, GG, at the GIA Alumni Association Japan’s 25th anniversary celebration. Fujita says he wants to make the eight Japanese alumni chapters “a very comfortable place for alumni” where they can foster personal and professional connections. Photo courtesy of Ken Fujita
“After GIA graduation, we can help them make those connections,” he says. “I want to make our chapters in Japan a very comfortable place for alumni. The GIA Alumni Association is a place where graduates can connect with a new supplier or client, make a new friend, or educate themselves with new and ongoing developments in the trade.”
Fujita says those interested in entering the gem and jewelry industry should pursue a GIA education, regardless of whether they have an established family history.  “The designation of GG is a very important ‘passport’ in our industry to identifying a respected, trustworthy professional,” he says.
He also offered some advice on how to stay ahead to those already in the business: “Deal with only beautiful pieces … and I don’t mean only expensive items,” he says. “I think beauty is the key to survive in the industry.” @topic:12


Publish Year: 1986 Title: A Survey of the Gemstone Resources of China Abstract: The People's Republic of China has recently placed a high priority on identifying and developing its gemstone resources. Initial exploration by teams of geologists throughout China has identified many deposits with significant potential, including amber, cinnabar, garnets, blue sapphires, and diamonds. Small amounts of ruby have also been found. Major deposits of nephrite jade as well as large numbers of gem-bearing pegmatite dikes have been identified. Significant deposits of peridot are currently being exploited from Hebei Province. Lastly, turquoise rivaling the finest Persian material has been found in large quantities in Hubei and Shaanxi Provinces. @topic:2


Publish Year: - Title: Jewelers Seek to Overcome Weak Numbers in 2016 Holiday Season Abstract: The 8.01 ct Fancy Vivid blue Sky Blue diamond sold for $17 million at Sotheby’s Geneva sale Nov. 16. It is set in a ring  surrounded by brilliant cut and baguette cut colorless diamonds. Photo courtesy of Sotheby’s

	Year-end forecasts remain mixed as large jewelry operations, including Blue Nile, reported tepid sales numbers as the holiday season began. Economic indicators, however, continue to point to a strengthening U.S. economy, and store/cyber traffic has been encouraging during the early weeks of the season.

	The latest quarterly financials from Signet (Kay, Zale, Jared) and Blue Nile show sales declines of 2% and 4.3%, respectively, while Tiffany & Co. eked out a 1% sales increase after posting declines in the two earlier quarters. Hearts on Fire, the diamond brand owned by Hong Kong retailer Chow Tai Fook, saw a 9% decline worldwide in the fall quarter. And Chow Tai Fook’s Hong Kong and China sales fell 23.5% in the last quarter.

	Balanced against this, however, are optimistic reports from higher-end independents. A Centurion Magazine survey reported that 60% of luxury jewelers reported sales gains through Black Friday and Cyber Monday, with 28% reporting increases over 10%. Some 25% reported sales declines of 5% or less. In addition, a survey by the “The Street,” a stock market news site, found a 7.1% uptick in combined store and online holiday sales.

	Beyond the holiday season, a report from ABN Amro, the leading diamond industry lender, sees the U.S. economy improving (and a slight upturn in China) through next year, bringing with it an increase in diamond demand that will reverse the slow but steady erosion of polished prices that has occurred over the past 18 months. A Bain & Company report cautioned, however, that diamond producers have been selling more rough than demand can absorb, leading to a potential supply glut next year.

The 9.14 ct GIA-graded Fancy Vivid pink diamond drew a final price of $18.2 million at Christie’s Nov. 15 Geneva sale in which 35 lots exceeded $1 million. Photo courtesy of Christie’s

	AUCTIONS

	After a slow start, and several important diamonds and gemstones not selling, the fall auction season was successful with a number of multi-million-dollar fancy color diamonds changing hands.

	At Christie’s Nov. 29 Hong Kong sale, a GIA-graded 4.29 ct Fancy Vivid blue diamond sold for $11.8 million ($2.7 million per carat), while the 10.7 ct “Ratnaraj” ruby sold for $10.2 million. At Sotheby’s Geneva sale, which totaled more than $136 million, the 8.01 ct “Sky Blue” diamond, graded Fancy Vivid blue by GIA, drew a winning price of just over $17 million ($2.1 million per carat). A 7.74 ct Fancy Deep blue diamond also went for $3.7 million ($1.7 million per carat).

	Christie's Nov. 15 Geneva auction saw 35 lots exceed $1 million, including a 9.14 ct Fancy Vivid pink pear shape that  sold for $18.2 million ($2 million per carat), and a GIA-graded pair of pear shaped D Flawless diamonds weighing 52.55 carats and 50.47 carats that sold for $17.6 million.

	TRADE

	The abrupt action by Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi to ban cash transactions with 500 and 1000 rupee notes ($7.35 and $14.70) by Dec. 30 has caused chaos in the country’s retail and wholesale markets because these notes comprise 86% of the cash in circulation by value. The move forced cancellation of several end-of-year gem and jewelry trade fairs. The largest affected show is the Dec. 23-26 Jaipur Jewellery Show, which was postponed to an unstated date next year. Gemfields, the colored stone miner, also cancelled its Jaipur auction of emerald and beryl, which was scheduled for the same time.

	Those holding these bills have to deposit them in their bank accounts by Dec. 30 with strict limits on bank withdrawals. The government’s Ministry of Finance also tightened reporting requirements for cash transactions over $3,000.

	The ministry said the prime minister took the action to crack down on “unaccounted wealth and to curb financing of terrorism and other subversive activity.” While the ban will have little effect on India’s export-oriented diamond trade, retail sales in the country remain largely a cash business and economists predict the action could reduce growth by as much as 1%. @topic:7


Publish Year: - Title: Lapis Lazuli History and Lore Abstract: For centuries, Afghanistan has been an important source for top-quality lapis.

                      Historians believe the link between humans and lapis lazuli stretches back more than 6,500 years. The gem was treasured by the ancient civilizations of Mesopotamia, Egypt, China, Greece, and Rome. They valued it for its vivid, exquisite color, and prized it as much as they prized other blue gems like sapphire and turquoise.

Badakshan, a province in present-day Afghanistan, is a forbidding wasteland of mountains, bare of any vegetation. The sheer mountain faces rise as high as 17,000 feet, and are scored with treacherous ravines. Humans make their way there to seek one thing only: the azure treasure that is fine lapis lazuli.

	The miners’ supplies have to be brought into the desolate area by mule train. - Gary
	Bowersox
The same was true as far back as 700 BC, when the region was part of a country known as Bactria. The lapis mines that were producing then are still producing today. They are, in fact, the world’s oldest known commercial gemstone sources.

	The ancient mines of Bactria—now Afghanistan—are still producing lapis today. This
	fine-color specimen was named "The Owl" because of its distinctive shape. It weighs
	about 2 lbs. (1 kg).- Robert Weldon, courtesy M. Chung
Merchant caravans transported their precious blue cargo across Bactria, on their way to the great cities of the ancient Greeks, Indians, Egyptians, Mesopotamians, and Persians. Marco Polo referred to the area’s lapis mines in 1271, but few outsiders have seen them because of their inhospitable location.

For thousands of years, lapis has been fashioned to show off its rich, dark color. Typically, lapis used in jewelry has been cut into cabochons, beads, inlays, and tablets. But lapis lazuli’s use has never been limited to jewelry alone. It’s also a popular carving material. Throughout its history, lapis has been fashioned into practical objects, including game boards, bowls, dagger handles, hair combs, and amulets.

	This lapis cabochon features the ancient symbol of a scarab beetle carved into its surface. - Maha Tannous

	Inlay, a typical lapis cutting style, is featured in this man’s ring. The gold mounting complements the pyrite flecks in the inlay. - Mike Havstad

	Throughout history, lapis has been fashioned into ornamental objects. This elaborate
	carving takes advantage of the striking contrast between light-colored calcite and the
	deep blue of lapis.
Today, lapis is frequently fashioned into freeform and nature-themed sculptures. Some of these carvings become wearable art, others are purely decorative.

	This striking tiger brooch is a creation of Cartier, New York, the famed design house. Its dramatic appearance features yellow diamonds, black onyx, lapis lazuli, and platinum. - GIA and Harold & Erica Van Pelt, courtesy Ishaia Trading Corp., New York.

	This delicate carving is part of the 21-piece “Symphony in Gemstones” collection. - Robert Weldon, gift of Art Sexauer @topic:2


Publish Year: - Title: Client Encounters Teach Valuable Retail Lessons Abstract: Students at GIA’s campus in Carlsbad gather around Larry French, left, as he shows them the “Gran Dama,” a brooch designed by Gianmaria Buccellati. The brooch features white, blue, yellow and pink diamonds, and a 98.67 carat Melo pearl – believed to be the eighth-largest in the world – from Vietnam.  Only about 80 Melo pearls are known worldwide. Photo by Eric Welch, © GIA

	Success in the jewelry industry often requires drive and determination.

	That’s why when Larry French was turned down from a job at Van Cleef and Arpels in Los Angeles, he applied again.

	And again. And again.

	It took a total of eight attempts before owner Claude Arpels offered him a position.

	That determination is what took French from driving a tractor in a cornfield in Indiana to selling jewelry to celebrities and dignitaries around the world. The industry veteran spent 23 years at Van Cleef and Arpels before taking a position as store director at Buccellati Beverly Hills in the early 1990s.

	French shared anecdotes from his career with students at GIA’s Carlsbad campus on Nov. 6, 2013. Beyond accounts of famed actresses and rock stars, he imparted the advice for success he’s learned from his many years in the industry.

	He still vividly remembers the first piece of jewelry he sold, although not for its grandeur.

	“It was a crystal bead necklace for $1.99,” French said of his first sale in the costume jewelry department of a large store. He said he persuaded the customer to also buy the matching earrings for a dollar.

	French’s interest in gems began long before his stint in the costume jewelry department. “When I was a kid, I would read through National Geographic magazines and was fascinated with articles about golden idols with emerald eyes or stories about a new ruby mine,” he said. “The reason I got in this business was a real love of exotic stones and the history and stories behind them – which I find as fascinating as the stones themselves.”

	French said he entered an essay contest organized by the American Gem Society (AGS) in the mid-1960s. He doesn’t remember what he wrote in his essay application, but said it was interesting enough for the judges to award him a GIA scholarship. He said the courses further sparked his passion for gem stones and his determination to pursue the job at Van Cleef and Arpels.

	French said he has had the opportunity to see and sell many remarkable gems throughout his career. He described some of the most notable pieces and clients, including an invisible-set diamond and sapphire ring for musician Elton John and a trip from New York to California with Napoleon Bonaparte’s crown in a duffle bag.

	One account, in particular, left the audience in awe.

	Actress Elizabeth Taylor routinely had her gems and jewelry cleaned at his Van Cleef and Arpels store, so it came as no surprise when her assistant dropped off “La Peregrina,” a 50 carat natural pearl, for cleaning. But after the assistant left, French’s associate noticed scratches.

	“There were deep scratches,” he said. “This was bad. I knew how famous the pearl was. There was no way I could prove the pearl wasn’t flawless when it was brought in.”

	He said he paced the store in a state of panic for an hour before he called Taylor’s assistant to try to explain the situation. The assistant only laughed and told French he knew the pearl was scratched – they were bite marks from Taylor’s dog.

	Naturally, French offered this advice to students: always give a condition report.

	He also described what he considers to be the most valuable piece of jewelry he’s ever seen – a garnet and pearl ring a young woman brought into the Buccellati store to be repaired. The ring had belonged to her mother, grandmother and great-grandmother and she was heartbroken that it was in such poor condition because she wanted to wear it for her wedding. The store repaired the family heirloom so the client could continue the tradition.

	“Ever since that day, in spite of the great pieces I’ve sold in my life, I changed what I think creates value,” French said. “Value is not just carat weight … it has to do with the love that people put on jewelry, on what it means to them and their family.”

	He said jewelry is the only business with such sentimental value.

	When asked what advice he has for success, French shared a quote from Peter Carl Faberge: be noble.

	“If you can find a way to be [noble], you’ll certainly go far in your career,” he said. “Companies may go bankrupt … but you’ll be alright. They can't take that from you – no matter what happens.” @topic:6


Publish Year: - Title: Topaz Quality Factors Abstract: Blue topaz makes a perfect gem material for artistic carvings. - Lydia Dyer, courtesy of John Dyer & Co.

Color
Red is one of the most sought-after topaz colors and represents less than one-half of 1 percent of facet-grade material found. The color the trade calls imperial topaz is highly prized and very rare. Many dealers insist that a stone must show a reddish pleochroic color to be called imperial topaz. The reddish pleochroic color often appears at the ends of fashioned gems—like pears and ovals—that have an otherwise yellow-to-orange bodycolor.

	Imperial is one of the most highly prized topaz colors, as seen in this spectacular prize-winning, orangy-red, flame-shaped gem. - Gem courtesy of John Dyer & Co.
A fashioned topaz that displays a combination of two colors is called bicolor topaz. Some say that pink topaz, often called rose topaz, resembles a pink diamond or a bright pink sapphire. Pink topaz has certain advantages over these two gems. It’s much less expensive than pink diamond, and it’s often available in larger sizes than either diamond or sapphire.

Dealers often use the trade term “sherry topaz” for yellowish brown or brownish yellow to orange topaz. The term comes from the color of sherry wine. Stones in that color range are also sometimes called precious topaz. This helps distinguish them from less expensive citrine and smoky quartz, both of which look similar to, and are frequently misrepresented as, topaz.

Golden or yellow topaz lacks the prized red overtones of imperial topaz. It’s also much more abundant and therefore less valuable. Although brown topaz is also less valuable, it has been used in striking pieces of jewelry and ornamental art.

In nature, topaz is most commonly colorless, and naturally strong blue gems are extremely rare. In the marketplace, however, strong blue shades are plentiful. Treatments are the reason for this. Treaters use a combination of radiation and heat to produce blue hues in topaz. Since the 1970s, treatments have brought blue topaz to a broad market.

	Irradiation and heat treatment transform colorless topaz to various shades of blue. Starting in the 1970s, treatment created a huge market for inexpensive blue topaz. - © GIA & Tino Hammid
When it was first introduced to the market, treated blue topaz sold for $20 to $40 per carat. But oversupply led to huge drops in wholesale prices, down to a few dollars or less per carat. Today, blue topaz is basically a mass-market gem, and price is often the most important consideration for many buyers. Uniformity of color and cut is also important, especially for mass-market jewelry manufacturers.

	The nature of the starting material and the type of treatment determine the blue that results. These treated topaz stones, weighing from 2.72 carats to 7.86 carats, show a range of hue, tone, and saturation. - Courtesy Chuck Ashbaugh
Clarity
Fashioned topaz gems are often free of visible inclusions or flaws. This especially true of blue, colorless, and yellow topaz.

	This ring, designed by Maria Canale, holds a 12.25-carat untreated topaz from Brazil. The gem has no visible inclusions. - Courtesy Richard Krementz Gemstones
Cut
Because topaz crystals are usually elongated or columnar, they’re often cut as long oval or pear shapes to improve yield. If the rough is strongly colored, the cutter often chooses the emerald cut because that cutting style maximizes color and retains the most weight.

Topaz is cut in a wide variety of shapes and cutting styles. Production includes all the standard gem shapes such as ovals, pears, rounds, cushions, triangles, marquise, and emerald cuts as well as designer-inspired fantasy shapes.

	A modern mixed cutting style dramatically intensifies the color of this 14.68-carat bright blue topaz. - Lydia Dyer, Topaz StarBrite courtesy of John Dyer & Co.
Cutting styles are also well represented. Brilliant cuts with triangular and kite-shaped facets, step cuts with concentric rows of parallel facets, and mixed cuts usually consisting of brilliant-cut crowns and step-cut pavilions are all common. Designer cuts fashioned by hand and machine are popular, too.

	The uniform color of treated blue topaz makes it a highly suitable material for cutting into standard sizes for jewelry.
Because there is an abundant supply of treated blue topaz, it’s often cut into calibrated sizes for use in mass market and multi-stone jewelry.

Carat Weight
Standard topaz cuts for the jewelry industry include a wide range of shapes and sizes. The gem is inexpensive in smaller sizes, but prices rise for gems above 10×8 mm.

	This 61.78-carat carved topaz is a truly unique sculptural piece. Skilled workmanship intensifies the blue color to produce an effect like shimmering droplets of water. Blue topaz makes a perfect material for large carvings due to availability in large sizes. - Lydia Dyer, Blue Topaz Sculptural Gem courtesy of John Dyer & Co. @topic:2


Publish Year: 1991 Title: An Examination of Nontransparent “CZ” from Russia Abstract: White, pink, and black nontransparent synthetic "cubic zirconia" is currently being manufactured in Russia and marketed primarily in cabochon and bead form. These unusual materials are potentially useful as substitutes for such gem materials as pearl, dyed black chalcedony ("onyx"), and even black diamond. The authors provide a detailed description of these new products, including the chemistry and probable manufacturing techniques. These products can be readily identified by standard gemological tests. @topic:8


Publish Year: 2014 Title: Books: Heavenly Bodies: Cult Treasures and Spectacular Saints from the Catacombs Abstract: By Paul Koudounaris, 192 pp., hardcover, illus., publ. by Thames & Hudson, 2013, $29.95.

              In Heavenly Bodies, Paul Koudounaris has chosen an unusual topic for research: The idea of honoring the early martyrs by adorning them with lavish metalwork and gemstones. One initial impression might be that this work has a religious theme, yet it covers many interesting historical points not tied to religion. Koudounaris’s impartial research on the so-called catacomb saints gives insight into aspects of the schism within the Christian faith in Europe following the Protestant movement.

The book examines the skeletons discovered by chance in Roman catacombs (underground tombs) in the mid-16th century. The Vatican declared the tens of thousands of skeletons found in these vast underground labyrinths to be remains of early Christian martyrs. The location alone was sufficient proof of martyrdom, and no further evidence was sought to declare their authenticity. The Catholic Church was delighted to have a substitute for the holy relics that were largely destroyed during the Protestant Reformation in German-speaking European countries. The skeletons were examined and authenticated in Rome, then dispatched to other Catholic parishes, mainly in Germany and Switzerland.

Upon their arrival, the skeletons were lavishly adorned. Fragile bones would be reinforced by animal glue; missing parts would be replaced by wood or sometimes metal. They would be preserved with wax and meticulously covered with gauze, silk, and gemstones and pearls set in silver. The decorative work took hundreds of hours and was performed by nuns and silversmiths on each skeleton that went on display. Some churches had to wait until they could collect the funds for this costly task. It is interesting that when the church couldn’t afford natural gems, it compromised and used imitation stones, and even these weren’t inexpensive at the time. Many devotees supported the cause by donating jewelry and money. After all, these luxuriously decorated skeletons were a great attraction and a source of income for the church.

By the 19th century, pride in the catacomb saints had faded. The revered relics became an embarrassment due their questionable origin. The Catholic Church itself began to doubt the authenticity and the necessity of these objects. Once considered remains of the saints, the ornately embellished skeletons began quietly disappearing from the public scene. Today, a few churches in Switzerland and Germany still maintain them, but not on public display. Paul Koudounaris was granted access to the few remaining specimens for research, and the book is magnificently illustrated with more than 100 of his photos.

Heavenly Bodies is an illuminating read for jewelry historians and gemologists alike, as it reveals an unusual aspect of jewelry and use of gems. @topic:6


Publish Year: - Title: De Beers Holds Line of Prices for Feb. What About April? Abstract: Rough diamond crystals. Courtesy of De Beers.

	Buoyed by encouraging retail signs in the U.S. and Asia, De Beers allocated another large sight in February ‒ an estimated $730 million ‒ but left prices at January levels.

	Premiums on De Beers’ sight boxes rose on the wave of optimism and increased prices at tender sales in January, but De Beers’ executives held the line of prices. They are probably waiting for the results of March’s Hong Kong show to gauge the true state of the market. Diamond dealers hope that rising demand will lift polished prices, which have been stagnant for most of last year. The next sight is the first week of April.

	De Beers is also making the most of these early-year sights because the application process for the next sight term is beginning soon, and one of the criteria for selection will apparently be clients’ purchase history. Some clients deferred a significant percentage of their purchases in the first half of last year, while some potential clients were strong buyers at De Beers’ rough auctions, which comprise about 10% of its sales.

ZALE CORP. SALE: The announcement of the acquisition of Zale Corp by its chief competitor, Signet Group (Kay Jewelers and Jared, The Galleria of Jewelry), caught most in the industry by surprise; not because Zale would be sold ‒ retail analysts were predicting this for several years ‒ but that another major jewelry chain would snap it up.

	Signet has fared well in recent years, holding its own through the worst economy this generation has known, in an increasingly competitive retail arena. Zale, however, has struggled to reposition itself in an environment that has changed drastically in the past decade. The company made some progress in retooling itself during the past two years, which probably made it a more attractive acquisition, especially for a price of $1.4 billion (all figures in U.S. dollars).

	Zale earned $10 million on sales of $1.9 billion in fiscal 2013, but showed losses of $26.9 million on sales of $1.86 billion in 2012 and $112 million on sales of $1.74 billion in 2011.

	The question now is what will happen with a retail chain that is nearly 3,600 stores strong, especially since many of those stores operate in the same shopping malls as the company that bought it. Shifting an operation of Zale’s size to Signet’s vastly different business model will take years, even if it seems likely that a number of the Zale and Gordon’s stores will close.

	Integrating the two companies on such a large scale will have its challenges. Signet never lost sight of the fact that it is a jewelry seller and has combined a strong sales associate training program with a very highly targeted merchandising plan. Additionally, its advertising always stressed the romantic side of the product.  Zale’s incorporated a department store approach with little variation in its product mix between regions or store brands and its advertising tended to be more price-oriented.

DIAMONDS: The  29.62 carat blue diamond mined recently by Petra Diamond Ltd., brought a top bid of $25.5 million ($862,780 per carat), an astounding price for a rough diamond, from Cora International of New York.

	In recent years, top fancy colored diamonds have been fetching record prices at the world’s leading auction houses. Last November, a New York diamond dealer paid $85 million for a GIA-graded 59.6 carat Fancy Vivid pink diamond sold by Sotheby’s at its Geneva auction. This stone nearly doubled the previous record for the highest price ever paid for any gem at auction, the 24.78 carat Fancy Vivid pink diamond that sold for $46 million in 2010. (Update: According to media reports, Sotheby’s cancelled the sale of the Pink Star several months after the auction when the the winning bidder was unable to complete the transaction.) The highest price per-carat ever paid for a blue diamond was $1.8 million for the 5.30 carat Bulgari Blue diamond which GIA graded Fancy Deep blue. It was sold by Bonham’s in London in November of last year.

	The large blue diamond was found in the Cullinan Mine which, since its opening in 1903, has yielded an unparalleled treasure trove of legendary diamonds, starting with the 3,106 carat Cullinan, which was polished into the 530 carat pear-shaped diamond that is the centerpiece of Britain’s crown jewels and eight other significant stones. The mine also yielded the 240.8 carat Taylor-Burton diamond, the 353.9 carat Premier Rose, the 755.5 carat Golden Jubilee and the 599.1 carat Centenary diamond, among others. Last year, a 25.5 carat blue diamond that sold for $17 million, or $663,000 per carat, was found there.

COLORED STONES: The Myanmar military has reportedly moved in to secure the jade mining area around Hpakant, in the southern part of the nation, after a miner discovered a 37-ton jade boulder in mid-February. According to local press reports, the jade rock measured 13 feet high. Local authorities reportedly halted all informal mining in the region until the boulder could be relocated to a secure facility. @topic:7