Publish Year: 2008 Title: The Use of Laser and X-Ray Scanning to Create a Model of the Historic Koh-I-Noor Diamond Abstract: For centuries, the Koh-i-Noor was one of the world’s largest diamonds. It was recut in 1852 from its historic form of 186.1 old carats to an oval of 105.60 modern carats. While the modern shape is well documented, the original form is not. Fortunately, the Natural History Museum in London commissioned a mold of the diamond in 1851 before it was recut. Using one of two plaster replicas made from this mold, the present study captured the surface topology of the original Koh-i-Noor through photography plus laser and X-ray scanning methods. A crystallographic analysis of the major facets determined the diamond’s orientation within a “perfect” diamond crystal, which was used to refute one theory about the diamond’s genealogy. Computer modeling established the orientation of the recut diamond within the historic version. Information from this study was used to create an accurate replica from cubic zirconia. @topic:4


Publish Year: 2010 Title: Color Alterations in CVD Synthetic Diamond with Heat and UV Exposure: Implications for Color Grading and Identification Abstract: In response to heat and UV exposure, some synthetic diamond gemstones grown by chemical vapor deposition exhibit large, reversible changes in color. A significant reduction in color was achieved by heating several CVD synthetic gemstones to 450°C. Conversely, a darker color was observed in samples following exposure to UV radiation (such as that used in gem testing). Both the heated and UV-exposed samples returned to their initial (stable) color when they were illuminated for >30 minutes with a standard daylight-equivalent lamp used for grading. However, these color states did not change with time when the samples were kept in the dark. Heating and UV exposure also influenced the strengths of various IR absorption features that might be used to identify such a sample as a CVD synthetic. These nonpermanent changes might affect the apparent color grade of a CVD synthetic diamond, and care must be employed in the interpretation of spectroscopic features used to determine a stone’s natural or synthetic origin. @topic:4


Publish Year: - Title: Aviat Diamonds: A Window into the Deep Lithospheric Mantle Beneath the Northern Churchill Province, Melville Peninsula, Canada Abstract: The Aviat kimberlites are located in Melville Peninsula in northeastern Nunavut. They are part of the Rae craton, which is composed of Archean granitoid rocks, supracrustal belts and Paleoproterozoic metasedimentray rocks. Carbon isotopic composition, nitrogen concentration, and nitrogen aggregation state of 70 samples from these kimberlites were analyzed to help understanding composition of diamond-forming fluids, paragenesis of diamond source, mantle residence history, and thermal history of the subcratonic lithospheric mantle. The colors of samples were colorless, gray, brown and green.

The FTIR analysis revealed that majority of these samples were type IaAB, including IaA and IaB. Total nitrogen content ranged from 13 to 1467 ppma. The Aviat diamonds were relatively rich in hydrogen. The absorption bands at 3107, 2786, and 1404 cm–1, caused by bending and stretching of the vinylidene group (C=CH2), were observed in most samples. Additional hydrogen-related band at 3237 cm–1 was also detected.

SIMS revealed nitrogen content ranged from 1 to 1724 ppma. The δ13C isotopic analysis suggested that these diamonds were precipitated mainly from carbonate-bearing fluids. Large variations in nitrogen content and δ13C values, although they were not correlated, were observed in growth sectors, suggesting multiple events of fluid derivation from different sources, mainly ecologitic, and also probably peridotitic. However, the relationship between CL and carbon isotopic composition suggested that non-luminescent diamond may have been formed during one episode of growth. The Aviat diamonds were possibly formed from diamond forming fluids or melts from several orogenic events, such as transportation of graphitized organic matters and marine carbonates into deep mantle via subducting oceanic slabs.

The catastrophic platelet degradation was suggested by the positive correlation between platelets and B aggregates of nitrogen. This phenomenon was probably caused by transient heating events or deformation or both during mantle residence. Blue luminescence of nitrogen-rich samples may be related to intense degradation of platelets. The residence temperature of most samples was extrapolated to ~1050–1150°C, suggestive of diamond source near the top of diamond stability field at ~150–170 km.

Abstracted by Kyaw Soe Moe @topic:8


Publish Year: 2013 Title: Growth Strategy for Controlling Dislocation Densities and Crystal Morphologies of Single Crystal Diamond by Using Pyramidal-Shape Substrates Abstract: A single synthetic diamond crystal can be used as an electronic device because of its properties, such as a high breakdown field and thermal conductivity. However, defects, such as dislocation bundles, which were formed during growth process, can cause current leakage, higher bandgap, and birefringence. Defect-free single diamond crystal that is large enough to be used as an electronic device is difficult to grow using current methods. For example, the “threading dislocations” can be formed in a CVD diamond using (001)-oriented substrate. The authors demonstrated that these defects could be reduced by modifying substrate’s shape and orientations.

									Two type Ib HPHT-grown, pyramidal substrates, type A and type B, were used to grow single CVD crystals in this research. The {100} directions in type A substrate and {110} directions in type B were polished into inclined faces with 20°, 30°, and 40° angles. Both possessed a square top measuring 200 x 200 µm2. Crystals were grown on these substrates using plasma-assisted CVD technique with power density of 100 W/cm3 and methane concentration of 5% at 850°C, achieving a growth rate of 13 microns per hour.

									After removal of the substrate, the fully grown CVD crystals showed high transparency. Nitrogen-related defects were not detected. The inclined faces in type A substrate helped prevent twin sectors from reaching the top face. The growth rates of the lateral and top faces were 32.5 and 13.5 µm per hour, respectively. When thickness reached about 490 microns, the inclined faces started to disappear. The dislocations, originating from the square top of a pyramidal substrate, were observed in a crystal grown on type A substrate with 20° dislocations. However, these dislocations were diverted toward the edges rather than the top. Photoluminescence image showed that the inclined faces effectively diverted the direction of threading dislocations from {100} to {110} direction. Absence of sharp edges in these pyramidal substrates also helped in reducing dislocations. The lateral surfaces had the highest growth rate and possessed “fish scale” morphology in type A grown crystals, a morphology not observed in type B crystals. A maximum thickness of 2.2 mm could be achieved with a dislocation of 40° on type B substrate. A crystal 1.70 mm thick containing very low defects was achieved using type B substrate with 20° or 30° dislocations.

Abstracted by Kyaw Soe Moe @topic:4


Publish Year: 2019 Title: Gemstone Portrait Artist Angie Crabtree Abstract: Figure 1. This selection of Angie Crabtree’s paintings displayed at the AGTA GemFair showcases opal and cut diamond. Photo by GIA.
The 2019 AGTA show in Tucson featured the work of a gemstone portrait artist. On display in Angie Crabtree’s booth were her oil paintings (figure 1) on canvas and panel. She also had a table with paints, palettes, and other supplies so people could see her at work (figure 2).
Crabtree’s portraits range in size up to 64 × 48 inches. She said people are excited to see gemstones in great size and detail. One painting can take more than 300 hours to complete. She said because people outside the gem and jewelry industry don’t always recognize the subjects as gemstones, the paintings can also be interpreted as abstract art.

Figure 2. Angie Crabtree at work at the AGTA show. Photo by Erin Hogarth.
The San Francisco–based artist said that all of her business, even from large corporate clients, comes from Instagram. “I’ve never paid to promote,” Crabtree said. “I’m just very fortunate for that.” Instagram also allows her to sell her own work instead of relying on galleries, which take a sizeable cut (typically around 50%). “That’s hard for artists,” she said. “Because of social media, artists have the opportunity to promote and market themselves.”
Crabtree grew up on a ranch in Sonoma County, California, and was interested in nature and geology from a young age. Her grandfather used to go gold mining, and she would collect obsidian and other rocks along the way. She began painting and taking art classes at the age of five, and by 12 she was teaching painting. She attended an arts high school and college, studied abroad at Amsterdam’s Gerrit Rietveld Academie, and graduated from the San Francisco Art Institute in 2009.
In 2012, while working as a high school art teacher, she did her first gemstone painting—a diamond portrait for an art gallery. She began painting different diamond cuts and posted them to Instagram. Soon people were asking for portraits of their engagement rings and other special stones. “That’s when it really took off,” she said.
One of the first people she met in the industry—via Instagram—was gemstone cutter Jean-Noel Soni of Top Notch Faceting. He told her about the gem industry and “completely opened my eyes,” she said. “That’s when I just fell in love with the whole thing.”
In 2015, she established her business and quit her teaching job. “It was a pretty big leap,” she said. “It’s scary for any artist to do that.” Within the first year, she was commissioned by Chopard and Forevermark to paint large series. Since then, business has grown to the point that she now has a studio manager who handles sales, accounting, and communication.
In 2018, Crabtree painted her first colored stone: an opal. “I wanted something a little bit more expressive and organic,” she said. Then came a tsavorite and an alexandrite, and she has since moved into sapphires and other stones. She plans to eventually paint minerals and other natural objects.

	Gemstone portrait artist Angie Crabtree

Crabtree was trained in realism, but she said her biggest struggle has been understanding gemstone proportions and facet dimensions. She has consulted industry experts to learn how to use the correct dimensions and ratios for the stones in her paintings. She often does not see the actual stones—most clients send her photographs. Painting accurate colors can be challenging, she said, because of the way a gemstone’s color changes with movement and light. Mixing color palettes is a laborious process: She will mix 30 or so colors and write down each color recipe for future use. “People think being an artist is painting all day every day, and it’s not,” she said. “It’s numbers and talking to people, and it’s sales and it’s promotion. Even the cleanup and setup takes forever.”
Crabtree has two autoimmune diseases. “There are certain days where I wake up and my hands are just stuck in fists. Sometimes I can’t walk. Sometimes I can’t open my paint,” she said. “But I do what I love, and I get to create my own hours, and I get to travel. So I make it work and stay positive.” @topic:6


Publish Year: 2002 Title: Fall 2002 G&G Book Reviews Abstract: “From Mine to Mistress: Corporate Strategies and Government Policies in the International Diamond Industry”
By Chaim Even-Zohar, 555 pp., publ. by Mining Journal Books Ltd., Edenbridge, England. US$495.00

“Light & Stone: Highlights from the Scott Gem Collection”
Photography by Harold and Erica Van Pelt, commentary by Peter C. Keller and Michael M. Scott, publ. by the Bowers Museum of Cultural Art, Santa Ana, California, 2002. US$25.00

“Gemstones Quality and Value, Volume 2”
By Yasukazu Suwa, 144 pp., illus., publ. by Sekai Bunka Publishing Inc., Tokyo, (2nd ed., English translation) 2002. US$95.00

“Murzinka: Alabashka Pegmatite Field”
By Valentina I. Popova, Vladimir A. Popov, and Alexander A. Kanonerov, illus., 136 pp., Vol. 5 of the Mineralogical Almanac series, publ. by Ocean Pictures Ltd., Russia, 2002. US$39.95

“Gemstones and Other Unique Minerals and Rocks of Wyoming: A Field Guide for Collectors”
By W. Dan Hausel and Wayne M. Sutherland, illus., 268 pp., Bulletin 71, Wyoming State Geological Survey, Laramie, 2000. US$20.00

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @topic:2


Publish Year: 2004 Title: Winter 2004 G&G Book Reviews Abstract: “Bernd Munsteiner: Reflexionen in Stein [Reflections in Stone]”
Edited by Wilhelm Lindemann, 224 pp., illus., publ. by Arnoldsche, Stuttgart, Germany, 2004 (in German and English). US$75.00

“Illustrated Guide to Jewelry Appraising, 3rd Edition”
By Anna Miller, 200 pp., illus., publ. by GemStone Press, Woodstock, VT, 2004. US$39.99

“Magic World: Inclusions in Quartz”
By Jaroslav Hyrsl and Gerhard Niedermayr, 240 pp., illus., publ. by Bode Verlag, Haltern, Germany, 2003 [German and English]. € 49.00

“Minerals: Their Constitution and Origin”
By Hans-Rudolf Wenk and Andrei Bulakh, 668 pp., illus., publ. by Cambridge University Press, Cambridge, United Kingdom, 2004. US$130.00 (hardcover); US$70.00 (softbound)

“Rocks Pebbles and Stones: Confessions of a Private Jeweler”
By Fred Feldmesser, 100 pp., publ. by Farrington Press, Boston, 2004. US$30.00 (E-mail: parker@ feldmesser.com)

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @topic:6


Publish Year: 2013 Title: Composite Amber with an Unusual Structure Abstract: Figure 1. This pebble-shaped amber composite had a total weight of 9.12 g. Photo by Haibo Li.

With amber emerging as one of the most popular gems in the Chinese jewelry market, the quality of imitations also appears to be on the rise. Many of these simulants are composites consisting of two or more substances, such as amber, copal, artificial resin, and plastic, joined together as a finished piece. Some composites incorporate small amber fragments. Manufacturers may also embed insect or lizard inclusions (Winter 2005 GNI, pp. 361–362). One notable composite amber specimen, a polished pebble-shaped pendant (figure 1), was recently identified at the National Gemstone Training Center (NGTC) lab in Beijing.
This specimen displayed no clear plane separating the two materials; instead there appeared to be an intersecting mixture of amber and polymer resin. The natural amber core had been covered by an outer shell of polymer resin, and about one-third of the natural amber was still exposed. Some of the small exposed portions were large enough for examination and identification. The most interesting aspect of the specimen was its pair of insect inclusions, one occurring naturally and the other artificially (figure 2).

FIgure 2. The smaller insect, circled in green, appeared in the natural amber part of the
composite, while the larger one was artificially embedded in the surrounding resin. Photo by Haibo Li.
The specimen had a waxy luster. Reflected light displayed scratches on the surface, suggesting a low hardness. It was relatively easy to observe the boundary between the natural and artificial resin sections using reflected light. Unlike most intersections found in such pieces, there were no air bubbles or other features, only clear lines. We also saw some small circular areas using transmitted and reflected light. These proved to be natural amber sections, both on the surface and within the sample, that had been polished and exposed during fashioning. The entire structure of this specimen was an intersection of two substances, identified as natural amber and polymer resin.
Observed under the microscope with transmitted light, part of the sample showed reddish brown curved lines; these were flow lines from natural amber. The two parts of the composite were clearly visible. The top part consisted of natural amber with a naturally deposited insect inclusion. The insect was translucent and partially broken. The larger insect inclusion in the bottom part was in much better condition, with an opaque transparency and clearer outline. The air bubbles around the larger insect were more spherical and concentrated, which is not typically seen in natural amber.
Under UV light, the composite gave an uneven fluorescence to long- and short-wave UV. The amber part showed a blue-white fluorescence, while the artificial resin fluoresced yellowish green.
To confirm the identity of the two different materials, we analyzed their infrared spectra (figure 3). Spectrum A displays main peaks at 1734.90 and 1160.99 cm–1, typical of Baltic region amber. Spectrum B shows a series of peaks; after comparison with spectra of amber, copal and some other synthetic materials, we used spectrum B to identify this sample as polymer resin. With its combination of natural and imitation amber, accompanied by natural and artificial insect inclusions, the piece presented an interesting identification study.

Figure 3. Reflected infrared spectra of the two parts of the specimen, with Kramers-Kronig (K-K) transformation method applied. Spectrum A represents natural amber, with typical peaks circled in green; spectrum B reveals many peaks, indicating the presence of polymer resin. @topic:8


Publish Year: 1999 Title: Spring 1999 G&G Book Reviews Abstract: “Arab Roots of Gemology—Ahmad ibn Yusuf al Tifaschi’s Best
Thoughts on the Best of Stones”
Translated with comments by Samar Najm Abul Huda, 271 pp., illus., publ. by Scarecrow Press, Lanham, MD, 1998. US$45.00

“L’e Meraude: Connais-Sances Actuelles et Prospectives [The Emerald: Current and Prospective Knowledge]”
Edited by Didier Giard, 235 pp., illus., publ. by Association Française de Gemmologie [gemmes@animasoft.fr], Paris, 1998 (softbound; in French, with partial English translations). 350.00 FF (about US$57.00)

“The Great Encyclopedia of Precious and Decorative Stones”
By Nikodem Sobczak and Tomasz Sobczak, 422 pp., illus., publ. by National Science Publishers, Warsaw, 1998 (in Polish), US$20

“Larousse des Pierres Précieuses”
By Pierre Bariand and Jean-Paul Poirot, 287 pp., illus., publ. by Larousse-Bordas, Paris, 1998 (in French), 250.00 FF (about US$42.00)

“Standards & Applications for Diamond Report/Gemstone Report/Test Report”
By SSEF Swiss Gemmological Institute, 118 pp., illus., publ. by SSEF, Basel, Switzerland, 1998, US$65.00

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @topic:8


Publish Year: 2008 Title: Fall 2008 G&G Book Reviews Abstract: “American Mineral Treasures”
By Gloria A. Staebler and Wendell E. Wilson, Eds., 354 pp., illus., publ. by Lithographie LLC [www.lithographie.org], East Hampton, CT, 2008. US$85.00

“The Diamond Handbook: A Practical Guide to Diamond Evaluation, 2nd Ed.”
By Renée Newman, 186 pp., illus., publ. by International Jewelry Publications [www.reneenewman.com], Los Angeles, 2007. US$19.95

“Gems of the World”
By Cally Oldershaw, 256 pp., illus., publ. by Firefly Books [www.fireflybooks.com], Buffalo, NY, 2008. $35.00

“Gems & Minerals”
By Andreas Landmann, 176 pp., illus., publ. by Schiffer Press, Atglen, PA, 2008. $29.99

“Southwestern Indian Jewelry: Crafting New Traditions”
By Dexter Cirillo, photography by Addison Doty, 240 pp., illus., publ. by Rizzoli International Publishers [www.rizzoliusa.com], New York, 2008. US$55.00

“Fleischer’s Glossary of Mineral Species 2008”
By Malcolm E. Back and Joseph A. Mandarino, 345 pp., publ. by The Mineralogical Record [www.minrec.org], Tucson, AZ, 2008, US$26.00

“Gemstones: Enchanting Gifts of Nature”
By R. V. Karanth, 48 pp., illus., publ. by the Geological Society of India [www.geosocindia.org], Bangalore, 2008, US$20.00

“Amazonite: Mineralogy, Crystal Chemistry, Typomorphic Features”
By M. N. Oustooumov, A. N. Platonov, and V. A. Popov, 253 pp., illus., publ. by Nedra, Moscow, 2008, Ru578 [in Russian]

“Infrared Reflection Spectrometry in Advanced Mineralogy, Gemology and Archaeometry”
By Mikhail Oustooumov, 89 pp., illus., publ. by the National University of Mexico Institute of Geophysics [www.igeofcu.unam.mx], Mexico City, 2007 [in Spanish]

“Traditional Jewelry of India”
By Oppi Untracht, 431 pp., illus., publ. by Thames & Hudson [thamesandhudsonusa.com], New York, 2008, US$49.95

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @topic:8


Publish Year: - Title: Diamond Growth from C–H–N–O Recycled Fluids in the Lithosphere: Evidence from CH4 Micro-inclusions and δ13C–δ15N–N Content in Marange Mixed-habit Diamonds Abstract: This article was published in Volume 265, Lithos, Pages 68-81.
Abstract
Mixed-habit (octahdedral + cuboid) diamonds from the Marange alluvial deposits in the eastern Zimbabwe craton have high nitrogen and hydrogen content that provides an opportunity to evaluate diamond growth mechanisms and C-N-H-O bearing fluids in the lithospheric keel. Light grey cuboid sectors with hydrogen-containing defects, trap abundant dispersed CH4 inclusions (Ra- man peaks at 2917 cm−1) associated with graphite (Raman peaks at 1580 cm−1). Clear octahedral sectors are richer in nitrogen and free of any such inclusions. Core to rim co-variations of δ13C- δ15N and N content can be explained by a mixing trend between earlier fluids that are CH4-rich and later fluids that are more CO3 - or CO2-rich. Marange diamonds have limited overall δ13C variation, but do show fractionation during growth towards higher δ13C values. This trend can be explained by diamond precipitation from mixed CH4 and CO2 fluids, where isotopic fractionation occurs as the amount of fluid wanes. Calculated δ15N values for diamond source fluids evolving in this manner are between +2.3 and +6.4 ‰. These N isotopic compositions require CH4-rich and CO3 -/CO2 -rich ’end-member’ fluids to have a recycled metasedimentary component perhaps introduced with subduction of eclogite.

Purchase the full article.
aGemological Institute of America, 50 West 47th Street, New York City, NY 10036, USA
bDepartment of Terrestrial Magnetism, Carnegie Institution for Science, 5241 Broad Branch Road NW, Washington, DC 20015, USA
cCanadian Centre for Isotopic Microanalysis, University of Alberta, 1-26 Earth Sciences Building, Edmonton, AB T6G 2E3, Canada

dGeophysical Laboratory, Carnegie Institution for Science, 5251 Broad Branch Road, N.W., Washington, DC 20015, USA @topic:8


Publish Year: 2007 Title: Winter 2007 G&G Book Reviews Abstract: “Jewels: A Secret History”
By Victoria Finlay, 472 pp., illus., publ. by Ballantine Books, New York, 2006. US$25.95

“Fine Minerals of China: A Guide to Mineral Localities”
By Guanghua Liu, 366 pp., illus., publ. by AAA Minerals AG, Switzerland, 2006. US$148.00

“The Jewelry Handbook: How to Select, Wear & Care for Jewelry”
By Renée Newman, 177 pp., illus., publ. by International Jewelry Publications, Los Angeles, 2007. $19.95

“The Pink Pearl: A Natural Treasure of the Caribbean”
By Hubert Bari after the text by David Federman, 173 pp., illus., publ. by Skira Editore S.p.A. [www.rizzoliusa.com], Milan, Italy, 2007. US$58.00

“Opal: The Phenomenal Gemstone”
By J. Clifford, P. Clifford, A. Frazier, S. Frazier, B. P. Gaber, C. J. Gaber, G. Neumeier, and G. Staebler, Eds., transl. by G. Neumeier, 108 pp., illus., publ. by Lithographie LLC, East Hampton, CN, 2007, US$40.00

“Namibia, 2nd Ed.”
By L. von Bezing, R. Bode, and S. Jahn, 856 pp., illus., publ. by Bode Verlag [www.bodeverlag.de], Haltern, Germany, 2007, US$158.00

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @topic:6


Publish Year: 2011 Title: Spring 2011 G&G Book Reviews Abstract: “Pearls”
By Hubert Bari and David Lam, 336 pp., illus., publ. by Skira Editore [www.skira.net], Milan, Italy, 2010. US$85.00

“Terra Spinel Terra Firma”
By Vladyslav Y. Yavorsky with Richard W. Hughes, 204 pp., illus., privately published [www.spinelbook.com], 2010. US$95.00

“Colour of Paradise: The Emerald in the Age of Gunpowder Empires”
By Kris E. Lane, 280 pp., illus., publ. by Yale University Press [www.yalepress.yale.edu], New Haven, CT, and London, 2010. US$40.00

“Twentieth-Century Jewellery: From Art Nouveau to Contemporary Design in Europe and the United States”
By Alba Cappellieri, 248 pp., illus., publ. by Skira Editore [www.skira. net], Milan, 2010. US$85.00

“Jewellery from the Orient: Treasures from the Bir Collection”
By Wolf-Dieter Siewert, 320 pp., illus., publ. by Arnoldsche Art Publishers [www.arnoldsche.com], Stuggart, Germany, 2009. US$85.00

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @topic:6


Publish Year: 2000 Title: Fall 2000 G&G Book Reviews Abstract: “The Microworld of Diamonds”
By John I. Koivula, 157 pp., illus., publ. by Gemworld International, Northbrook, IL, 2000. US$95.00

“Gemstones: Quality and Value, Volume 1”
By Yasukazu Suwa, 143 pp., illus., publ. by Sekai Bunka Publishing, Tokyo (2nd ed., English translation), 1999. US$84.00

“The Diamond Formula— Diamond Synthesis: A Gemmological Perspective”
By Amanda S. Barnard, 166 pp., illus., publ. by Butterworth-Heinemann, Oxford, England, 2000. US$39.95

“Gems and Gem Industry in India.”
By R. V. Karanth, 406 pp., illus., publ. by the Geological Society of India, Bangalore, India, 2000. US$75.00 (hardbound), US$60.00 (paperback). E-mail: gsocind@bgl.vsnl.net.in

“Black Opal”
By Greg Pardey, hardcover, 204 pp., illus., publ. by GP Creations, Urungan, Queensland, Australia, 1999. With video (running time 1 hour 52 min.). US$99.95. www.gpcreations.senet.com.au

“Diamonds and Mantle Source Rocks in the Wyoming Craton with a Discussion of Other U.S. Occurrences”
by W. Dan Hausel, Report of Investigations No. 53, 93 pp., illus., publ. by the Wyoming State Geological Survey, Laramie, WY, 1998, US$10.00

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @topic:8


Publish Year: 1999 Title: Winter 1999 G&G Book Reviews Abstract: “Rock Crystal Treasures From Antiquity to Today”
By Sylvie Raulet, 240 pp., illus., publ. by Vendome Press, New York, 1999. US$75.00

“Beyond Price—Pearls and Pearl Fishing: Origins to the Age of Discoveries”
By R.A. Donkin, 448 pp., illus., publ. by the American Philosophical Society, Philadelphia, PA, 1998. US$45.00

“Amber”
By Andrew Ross, 73 pp., illus., publ. by the Harvard University Press, Cambridge, MA, 1998. US$12.95

“Gem Minerals of Victoria”
By William D. Birch and Dermot A. Henry, 120 pp., illus., Special Publication No. 4 of the Mineralogical Society of Victoria, Melbourne, 1997. Aus$34.95

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @topic:6


Publish Year: 2020 Title: Third Annual Gianmaria Buccellati Foundation Award Winner Abstract: Yi-Hsuan Chiang’s design of an amethyst, diamond, moonstone, conch pearls, coral, black opal, and baroque pearl necklace won the third annual Gianmaria Buccellati Foundation Award. Chiang is a graduate of the Jewelry Design program at GIA in Taiwan.
Yi-Hsuan Chiang, a graduate of GIA’s Jewelry Design program in Taiwan, received the third annual Gianmaria Buccellati Foundation Award for Excellence in Jewelry Design during the Tucson shows. More than 200 students competed this year, and Chiang was one of 18 finalists from seven GIA campuses. Her winning design, of a necklace depicting a butterfly that has fallen into a spider’s web, featured amethyst, diamond, moonstone, conch pearls, coral, black opal, and baroque pearl (see above).
Chiang will travel to Italy to meet Rosa Maria Bresciani Buccellati, president of the foundation, and visit its collection.
Larry French of the foundation said, “The designs that were selected as the 18 finalists and exhibited in Tucson beautifully illustrate the passion and dedication of those who created them. It is in honor of Gianmaria Buccellati’s name that we will welcome, as our guest, Ms. Chiang to Italy.”
The 2020 Gianmaria Buccellati Foundation Award for Excellence in Jewelry Design competition is underway and open to students in GIA’s Jewelry Design courses who meet the eligibility requirements. For more information, visit gia.edu/buccellati-foundation-award-jewelry-design. @topic:6


Publish Year: - Title: Luxury Firms Adjust to the Era of Diminished Opulence Abstract: De Grisogono’s “Crazymals” collection introduced in Basel combines humor and craftsmanship to a luxury line. This pink flamingo ring is 18k gold, pink sapphires and colorless diamonds. Courtesy of De Grisogono

	Business at the March 23-30 Baselworld Fair was challenging for many exhibitors, even though luxury jewelry designers have been doing some serious rethinking and following the lead of the watch brands away from the blingy, gem-laden look to a more artistic approach. This was in evidence throughout the 2017 edition of Baselworld, which had its own clash with market realities this year.

	In addition to leading watch brands, the fair attracts top luxury jewelry brands and dealers of very high end gemstones – fancy color diamonds, colorless diamonds over 10 carats, and fine, untreated colored gems.

	Many fancy pink (including goods from Argyle’s three previous tender auctions), blue and yellow diamonds were available in the gemstone hall. Even the two largest Fancy Vivid violet diamonds in the market today were on display. In addition, a number of 10 carat-plus D Fl Type IIa diamonds; several Kashmir sapphires, ranging in price from $1 million to $7.5 million; and arrays of unheated Burmese rubies, including a necklace offered for $35 million, were spotted.

	While the array of such rare gems is unmatched by any venue in the world, buying was spotty. Some exhibitors with established clienteles, who were offering fine quality goods in the more mainstream market, made their sales goals. Most exhibitors at the extreme top end struggled. Also, the buyer count continued to slide this year as Chinese buyers, who had been aggressive luxury consumers, showed up in fewer numbers, and investors looking to buy rare gemstones have become wary of lofty prices.

	There were a variety of opinions as to why. Some felt that prices, which exceed $1 million per carat for fancy pink and blue diamonds, have peaked, making investors and extremely wealthy jewelry buyers reticent about buying. Others claimed that unsettled political and economic conditions in most major markets have made buyers skittish for the moment. Both camps, however, agreed that lowering prices on such goods was not an option because of the prices dealers had paid for such goods.

	Luxury jewelry houses have adapted to the mood today, stressing craftsmanship and design innovation in addition to the gem-intensive lines they are known for.

	De Grisogono, based in Geneva, introduced, among several newly-designed collections, a line of rings and pendants entitled “Crazymals,” which are quirky, amusing figures set with small diamonds, black diamonds and various colored gems.

	The company’s founder, Fawaz Gruosi, acknowledged the changes in the luxury market, but stressed that collections like Crazymals have the same attention to detail as high jewelry pieces. “In this collection, a little animal is a very sophisticated piece of jewelry,” he said.

	Another more traditional line is its India collection of necklaces and earrings featuring drop-shaped white opal, turquoise or onyx set in white gold and accented with diamonds set in a dense wild setting. As with the Crazymals, he pointed out the attention to craftsmanship that goes with each piece. Gruosi stressed that his company still does much of its business in very large diamonds – they sold a pair of 20 carat (ct) D Fl heart-shaped stones at the show.

	“These (major gems) will always have an appeal, especially as a financial asset,” he noted. “If something happens, [owners] can take these pieces anywhere in the world.”

	At this level – above eight million dollars – “You can only offer the absolute best and these goods are very, very difficult to find,” he said.

	Ian Harebottle, CEO of Gemfields, which owns Fabergé, said artistry and craftsmanship are more important than ever in the luxury market.

	“Large gems are becoming increasingly commoditized, so the way forward is to add value with craftsmanship and design,” he said.

	He cited the fine art market: “Some paintings sell for hundreds of millions of dollars. How much are the pigment, canvas and frame worth? And the most expensive diamond ever sold got only a fraction of what these works of art sell for.”

	Reena Ahluwalia, who created the Coronet by Reena diamond collection for Hong Kong-based Aaron Shum Jewellers, added another element. “The day when women dressed in formal attire wearing their jewels has passed for the most part,” she said. “Today they are less formal and want pieces that express their individuality that they can wear on the go.”

	Her Coronet collection features melee diamonds set into mobile elements to create scintillation, without using large gemstones.

	Other exhibitors employed carved, cabochon and drop-cut gem materials to create bolder, more fashion-oriented looks for wearable style in place of wearable wealth. For example, Paul Wild, of Idar-Oberstein, Germany, set drop-cut mandarin garnets into carved pink opal and similarly, cut aquamarines into carved green chrysoprase.

At Baselworld, Paul Wild of Idar-Oberstein, Germany offered a collection drop cut mandarin garnets set into carved pink opal for a necklace. Courtesy of Paul Wild. Photo Russell Shor/GIA

	Like the luxury market, the Baselworld fair itself has had to adjust to the era of diminished opulence. Between last year’s fair and this year’s, nearly 15% of exhibitors (some 200) pulled out. Nearly all of the international section, except for the Hong Kong contingent, was gone, as were many major Italian jewelry houses that populated the “Brand” hall. Several former exhibitors who attended the show as buyers said the increasing expense of the show, which has risen dramatically following the $500 million refurbishment three years ago, coupled with declining sales, made it impossible to remain.

	The fair created a special jewelry designers section with boutique-sized spaces for new and smaller companies in one of the large abandoned spaces, but with so many gaps in the exhibition areas, the decline was obvious.

	Still, fair management held firm at a contentious press conference during the opening, saying most of the companies that left did not meet show standards. Baselworld management relented by the end of the fair, however, and cut two days from the eight day show next year, lowering exhibitor costs accordingly.

	AUCTIONS

	The April 4 sale of the 59.60 ct Pink Star diamond to the Hong Kong-based retailer Chow Tai Fook for $71 million ends a long chapter for this stone – the most expensive ever sold at auction. Originally known at the Steinmetz Pink, after the first owner and polisher of the diamond, Sotheby’s sold the GIA-graded Fancy Vivid pink diamond for $82 million at its November 2015 Hong Kong sale. The buyer defaulted four months later, however, and the auction house was obliged to buy in the diamond for a reported $70 million.

	The diamond remained with the auction house until the April 4 sale. While this diamond now holds the price record for any gemstone, its per-carat price, $1.2 million, is half of what similarly graded diamonds have fetched in the recent past and less than one-third of the per-carat price of the previous record holder, the 14.69 ct Oppenheimer Blue that sold for just under $4 million per carat.

The GIA-graded 59.60 ct Pink Star diamond sold for $71 million at the April 4 Sotheby's auction in Hong Kong. Courtesy Sotheby's

	MARKET

	De Beers’ April cycle (sight) was valued at $580 million, significantly lower than the $660 million allocated at the April 2016 sale. The number may increase, however, as the company often sells goods outside the cycle system.

	De Beers said demand for rough was strong following a positive Hong Kong show. The company held the line on prices and there was no word of clients declining or deferring purchases. @topic:7


Publish Year: - Title: GIA’s Museum Team Creates Magic for New York Campus Abstract: GIA Museum Curator Terri Ottaway with the rock crystal quartz specimens that serve as the foundation for the newest display at GIA’s campus in New York City. Photo by McKenzie Santimer

	How do you “wow” people who have seen it all?

	That was the question on McKenzie Santimer’s mind in 2014 as she began to think about how to transform a feature case at GIA’s New York campus into a display that would “engage, inspire and promote the gem and jewelry industry."

	Santimer, GIA’s manager of exhibits and in-kind gifts, and Terri Ottaway, GIA museum curator, knew stopping students in their tracks would be no small order. The Institute’s New York campus is perched in the heart of the city’s Diamond District on 47th Street, near the high-end displays of Fifth Avenue.

	Students walk by dazzling displays every day on their way to class.

	On top of that, the GIA museum team is based at the Institute’s Carlsbad, California, world headquarters. Nearly all of the planning for this exhibit would take place 3,000 miles from its installation site.

	A newly released time-lapse video by GIA shows how the pair meticulously constructed a display full of award-winning diamonds, huge rock crystal quartz, unusual carved gems and pieces of jewelry representing some of the most recognizable and influential eras of design.

	“It’s a slice of Carlsbad on the East Coast,” Santimer says. “We brought things to New York that you otherwise couldn’t see there.”

McKenzie Santimer, GIA’s manager of exhibits and in-kind gifts, says the ambient light in the student commons made it a challenge to “create drama” in the oversized, two-sided glass display case. Santimer is confident the exhibit will “wow Fifth Avenue walkers.” Photo by Terri Ottaway

	Design, Operational Challenges

	While the team made two years’ worth of planning look effortless, their behind-the-scenes work was anything but.

	“It’s not glamorous,” says Santimer, recounting the logistics and minutiae involved with any museum exhibit. There is the enormous task of object sourcing, as well as layouts and taping, label writing, and shipping and installation concerns. They also need to secure insurance policies that protect important pieces while they are en route and once they arrive at their destination.

	In Carlsbad, Santimer and Ottaway have some access to support staff, and a rotunda that lends itself to thematic displays that can be constructed during regular work hours. In New York, however, extra staff was limited and both ambient lighting and the double-sided glass feature case presented unusual design challenges. Nearly every aspect of the work would simply take more coordination.

	On the other hand, the space at GIA in New York presented some exciting opportunities.

	GIA occupies three floors of the two and a half-year old International Gem Tower. The eighth floor houses the education department and is accessible exclusively to the 150-plus New York students, staff and VIP visitors. There are several classrooms, a library, locker rooms and a student lounge, all with what Santimer describes as a “modern zen” aesthetic.

	“It’s a special experience for students to be there, and is almost a sanctuary and juxtaposition of the loud, vibrant city that’s just outside,” she says.

	Within that commons area is the feature display case: 20 feet long, 16 inches wide and 30 inches tall, the case is lined on one side by a hallway, and by chairs and a student lounge on the other.

McKenzie Santimer describes the student commons at GIA as having a “modern zen” aesthetic. It’s “almost a sanctuary” in the city, she says.  Photo by McKenzie Santimer

	“Students can pull up to the bar, plug in their laptops and have a cup of coffee right in front of it,” says Santimer. “It’s beautiful, but because of the two visible sides, it is a real challenge for a curator and designer to make it pretty from both viewpoints. And because of the ambient lighting, it’s very challenging to create drama.”

	The exhibit, the second in that space, would complement the already-installed 15 small, education-focused wall niche exhibits lining the hallways of the eighth floor.

	Museum Exhibit InstallationNew York Campus

	Gemological Treasures from the GIA Museum

	Though there was no formal theme, Santimer and Ottaway decided to play to GIA’s strengths and zero in on gemology.

	The pair began by replacing the petrified wood and bamboo from the previous exhibit and replacing it with a foundation of 783 carats of rock crystal and smoky quartz. They acquired the American-mined minerals – the largest of which weighs 75,000 grams and measures 12 x 9 x 7.5 inches – from the Ron Coleman Mining Company in Hot Springs, Arkansas in 2014 at the Tucson gem and mineral shows.

	“The quartz was our canvas, and buying it was a great opportunity,” Santimer says. “There aren’t many minerals large enough to fill a display this big, and there aren’t a lot of them that are pretty on both sides. Quartz crystals grow large, and it’s a mineral that we knew everyone would recognize. Terri and I see possibilities everywhere, so when we came across these crystals in Tucson, we immediately thought, ‘This would work!’”

	Next, Santimer and Ottaway decorated the quartz with a combination of 44 pieces, 29 of which are jewelry, objet d'art, and loose gemstones, from the GIA Collection.

	“We had to ask ourselves what was going to pop and stand out against the quartz,” Santimer says. “So we broke it up into smaller vignettes and motifs, based on different periods, colors and themes.

	We used 88 total carats of diamond jewelry and a smattering of art deco, contemporary and Victorian pieces, as well as unusual carved gems such as a star sapphire. There are DeBeers-award-winning pieces and organic pieces like a cow bone brooch.”

	There is also avant-garde jewelry from Brazilian designers, South Sea pearl necklaces and snake bracelets – one made of Victorian-style jet beads, the other of 15K gold.

	The quartz pieces, in addition to serving as a foundation for the entire exhibit, represent the entire cycle of a quartz – from the rock crystals to a 202.80-gram sword-shaped letter opener and “The Cyclops,” an 8,783.50-ct flawless, colorless natural quartz gemstone with a round brilliant-cut pavilion and a step-cut crown.

View Gallery

	Since the commons area is in use during the week, Santimer and Ottaway had to work back-to-back weekends, and set up a staging area in an unused classroom. And since only one side of the feature case has doors, they had to creatively fit themselves into awkward spaces and narrow openings during the installation.

	As the time-lapse video shows, the scope of their task was large, but resulted in a one-of-a-kind exhibit.

	“We had very high expectations and are very proud of this display,” says Santimer, who is already thinking about how to “up the ante” when it comes down in two to three years. “We feel like this exhibit is perfectly at home in New York and are confident that we could ‘wow’ even Fifth Avenue walkers.” @topic:6


Publish Year: - Title: Hong Kong Show: Buyer-Seller Showdown on Prices Abstract: Buyers look over gemstones at the September 2015 Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair last week. Photo by Russell Shor

	The September Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair opened with some hard bargaining that had diamond and gemstone dealers hoping for deals.

	With the slowdown in China putting a drag on other Asian economies, expectations for this show, the world’s largest, were not high. But demand, albeit reduced, is there and retailers and jewelry manufacturers aggressively shopped for bargains from diamond dealers who had cut their inventories from very expensive rough and remain under intense pressure from their bankers to show a profit.

	The show is an important guide to how De Beers and Alrosa will conduct their final three sights/sales for the year.

	In August, De Beers cut its usual sight total by more than half to a reported $250 million and lowered prices by an average of 9% − concentrated mainly in medium- to better-quality goods that would polish out to between 0.30 carat (ct.) and 0.75 ct., where inventory levels are highest. And Alrosa, the world’s largest diamond producer by volume, followed suit, cutting volume and prices by similar amounts at its September sale.

	The results of the Hong Kong show will surely determine whether or not these two producers, which account for more nearly three quarters of the rough market, resume “normal” sales or continue to rein in supplies.

	Reports from state of Gujarat, India where the vast majority of diamond manufacturers are located, say many of those facilities have cut workers’ hours by as much as 40% because of reduced demand and high inventories, while an estimated 20,000 to 30,000 (5-7% of the workforce) have lost their jobs.

	Gujarat’s government is worried that the troubles in the diamond industry could exacerbate the existing unrest from the Patel community, which is demanding a larger share of government and academic jobs. A significant percentage of the diamond workforce belongs to this group, which had been one of the most prosperous in the region.

	Demand for emeralds remains robust. Gemfields achieved strong prices at its September auction of rough from its Kagem Mine in Zambia. The Singapore sale of 600,000 carats realized $34.7 million, for an average price of $58.42 per carat – the third highest total in the six years since the company has been auctioning Kagem material. This auction included finer quality material of various grades. The company also sells lower quality material, which is classifies as beryl, in separate sales.

RETAIL

	U.S. retail analysts were heartened by August’s improved job report and a very strong upward spike in the Conference Board’s Consumer Confidence index. The index, which had declined to 91.0 in July, rose more than 10 points to 101.5 in August as consumers grew more upbeat about the economy.

	“Consumers’ assessment of current conditions was considerably more upbeat, primarily due to a more favorable appraisal of the labor market,” said Lynn Franco, director of Economic Indicators at The Conference Board. “The uncertainty expressed last month about the short-term outlook has dissipated and consumers are once again feeling optimistic about the near future. Income expectations, however, were little improved.”

	De Beers’ executives remain “cautiously optimistic” about final quarter diamond jewelry sales.

	There are several reasons for their optimism regarding the U.S. One, the company is reviving its generic “Diamonds Are Forever” advertising campaigns it stopped several years ago. Some analysts blame lackluster diamond demand of the past five years on the ending of these campaigns.

	Second, the U.S. dollar has risen strongly among most major currencies, which helps keep prices stable here even if it does dampen demand in foreign markets. In China, for example, the diamonds from the August sight will cost 6% more because its currency declined by that much against the dollar in the past month. @topic:7


Publish Year: 2002 Title: Spring 2002 G&G Book Reviews Abstract: “Christie’s Guide to Jewellery”
By Sarah Hue-Williams, 160 pp., illus., publ. by Assouline Publishing, New York, 2002. US$18.95

“The Theory & Practice of Goldsmithing”
By Erhard Brepohl, 536 pp., illus., publ. by Brynmorgen Press, St. Portland, ME, 2001. US$70.00

“Fabergé Eggs: A Retrospective Encyclopedia”
By Will Lowes and Christel McCanless, 286 pp., illus., publ. by Scarecrow Press Inc., Lanham, MD, 2001. US$65.00

“Colored Gemstones: The Antoinette Matlins Buying Guide”
By Antoinette Matlins, 180 pp., illus., publ. by Gemstone Press, Woodstock, VT, 2001. US$16.95

“Diamonds: The Antoinette Matlins Buying Guide”
By Antoinette Matlins, 184 pp., illus., publ. by Gemstone Press, Woodstock, VT, 2001. US$16.95

“The Gem Hunter in Afghanistan”
An Epo-film production, Bristol, England, 2002. 52 minutes, available in VHS and DVD formats. US$29.95

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @topic:6


Publish Year: 2000 Title: Summer 2000 G&G Book Reviews Abstract: “Proceedings of the VIIth International Kimberlite Conference”
Edited by J. J. Gurney, J. L. Gurney, M. D. Pascoe, and S. H. Richardson, 947 pp. in two volumes, illus., publ. by Red Roof Design, Cape Town, South Africa, 1999. US$150 (plus postage)

“Gems & Jewelry Appraising, 2nd Edition”
By Anna M. Miller, 222 pp., illus., publ. by Gemstone Press, Woodstock, VT, 1999, US$39.95

“1000 Photos of Minerals and Fossils”
By Alain Eid, photography by Michel Viard, 127 pp., illus., publ. by Barron’s Educational Series, Hauppauge, NY, 2000. US$24.95

“Fire Into Ice: Charles Fipke and the Great Diamond Hunt”
By Vernon Frolick, 354 pp., illus.,
publ. by Raincoast Books, Vancouver, 1999. US$21.95

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @topic:6


Publish Year: 1997 Title: Winter 1997 G&G Book Reviews Abstract: “Creative Variations in Jewelry Design”
By Maurice P. Galli, Dominique Rivière, and Fanfan Li, 527 pp., illus., publ. by Schiffer Publishing, Atglen, PA, 1997. US$69.95

“Visual Optics: Diamond and Gem Identification Without Instruments—The Hodgkinson Method”
By Alan Hodgkinson, 50 pp., illus., publ. by Gemworld International, Northbrook, IL, 1995. US$25.00

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @topic:6


Publish Year: 1986 Title: Summer 1986 G&G Book Reviews Abstract: “Birthday Book of Gems”
By Harold and Erica Van Pelt, 128 pp., illus., publ. by Van Pelt Photographers, L. A., CA, 1986.
US$8.95

“The New World of Gold”
By Timothy Green, 290 pp., paperback, publ. by Walker and Co., New York, NY, 1984 (rev.). US$12.95

“Diamond, Ruby, Emerald, and Sapphire Facets”
By Gary Grelick, 56 pp., illus., privately published, 1985. US$5.00

“Art Nouveau Jewelry”
By Vivienne Becker, 240 pp., illus., publ. by E. P. Button, New York, NY, 1985. US$50.00

“Reviews in Mineralogy Volume 12: Fluid Inclusions”
By Edwin Roedder, 644 pp., illus., pub. by the Mineralogical Society of America, Washington, DC, 1984. US$15.00

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @topic:6


Publish Year: - Title: Summer 2009 G&G Book Reviews Abstract: “Mikimoto”
By Nick Foulkes, 80 pp., illus., publ. by Assouline Publishing [www.assouline.com], New York, 2008. US$18.95

“The Occurrence of Diamonds in South Africa”
By M. G. C. Wilson, N. McKenna, and M. D. Lynn; 105 pp. with two wall charts, illus., publ. by Council for Geoscience [www.geoscience.org.za], Pretoria, South Africa, 2007. US$68.00

“Gemlore: Ancient Secrets and Modern Myths from the Stone Age to the Rock Age”
By Diane Morgan, 232 pp., publ. by Greenwood Press [www.greenwood.com], Westport, CT, 2008. US$55.00

“Gems & Jewelry Appraising: Techniques of Professional Practice, 3rd Ed.”
By Anna M. Miller, edited by Gail Brett Levine, 235 pp., illus., publ. by Gemstone Press [www.gemstonepress.com], Woodstock, VT, 2009. $39.99

“The Opal Story: A Guidebook”
By Andrew Cody and Damien Cody, 39 pp. with DVD supplement, illus., publ. by the authors [www.nationalopal.com], Melbourne, Australia, 2008, US$37.00

“Growth and Morphology of Quartz Crystals Natural and Synthetic”
By Ichiro Sunagawa, Hideo Iwasaki, and Fumiko Iwasaki, 202 pp., illus., publ. by Terrapub [www.terrapub.co.jp], Tokyo, 2009, ¥7500

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @topic:6


Publish Year: 2001 Title: Ammolite: Iridescent Fossilized Ammonite from Southern Alberta, Canada Abstract: A relative newcomer to the world gem market (since the 1960s), Ammolite is a form of aragonite that is obtained from vivid iridescent fossilized ammonite shells mined in Alberta, Canada. The gem material, from the extinct species Placenticeras meeki and P. intercalare, is found only in certain horizons of the Bearpaw Formation of  Late Cretaceous age (about 70–75 million years old). Because the iridescent layer is generally thin and fragile, most Ammolite is fashioned into assembled stones. This article describes the history of Ammolite as a gem material and the geologic setting of the main producing mines; offers an explanation for the formation of Ammolite and the origin of its color (i.e., iridescence caused by an interference phenomenon); presents production data, gemological properties, and a grading classification; and describes the manufacturing process. @topic:1


Publish Year: - Title: Spinel History and Lore Abstract: This gem at the Chicago Field Museum of Natural History is inscribed with noor jahan, or “light of the universe.” - Courtesy "Gems and Gemstones:Timeless Natural Beauty of the Mineral World" by Lance Grande and Allison Augustyn, 2009. University of Chicago Press.

                      Spinel is a good candidate for the title of “History’s Most Underappreciated Gem.” Some ancient mines that supplied gems for royal courts from Rome to China produced spinel, but it was usually confused with better-known stones like ruby and sapphire.

In ancient times, the mines of central and southeast Asia yielded exceptionally large spinel crystals. These fine stones became known as Balas rubies, and some of them were the treasured property of kings and emperors, often passing through many hands as spoils of war. As a result, some of the world’s most illustrious “rubies” are actually spinel.

One of the most famous examples is the so-called “Black Prince’s ruby.” This historic crimson-red gem is set in England’s Imperial State Crown and displayed in the Tower of London. Smoothly polished and roughly octagonal in shape, it was probably mined in the mountains of Afghanistan. It first appeared in the historical records of fourteenth-century Spain, and was owned by a succession of Moorish and Spanish Kings before Edward, Prince of Wales—the “Black Prince”— received the stone in 1367 as payment for a battle victory.

Since then, many other English monarchs—including Henry VIII—have cherished the gem. It’s outlasted them all, surviving fires, attempted theft, and World War II bombing raids, to become—with the Koh-i-Noor diamond—one of the centerpieces of England’s Crown Jewels.

Another large spinel in the Crown Jewels, the “Timur ruby,” weighs over 350 carats. It, too, has a checkered history. Several Persian inscriptions carved into the gem testify to its age.

Modern technology hasn’t helped spinel’s confused identity as far as the general public is concerned. This is due largely to the widespread use of synthetic spinel as an imitation for many other gems. Most customers aren’t even aware that there’s a natural version of the stone. @topic:2


Publish Year: 2001 Title: Summer 2001 G&G Book Reviews Abstract: “Ammolite 2: A Guide for Gemmologists, Jewellers and Lapidaries”
By Donna Barnson, 116 pp., illus., publ. by the author, 2000. Can$29.95

“The Dorling Kindersley Handbook of Gemstones”
By Cally Hall, with photography by Harry Taylor, 160 pp., illus., publ. by Dorling Kindersley, London, 2000. US$18.95

“Gem & Jewelry Pocket Guide”
By Renee Newman, 156 pp., illus., publ. by International Jewelry Publications, Los Angeles, 2001. US$11.95

“Nature Guide to Gemstones & Minerals of Australia.”
By Lin Sutherland and Gayle Webb, 128 pp., illus., publ. by Reed New Holland Publishers, Sydney, 2000. Aus$24.95

“The Practical Guide to Jewelry Appraising”
By Cos Altobelli, 292 pp., publ. by the American Gem Society, Las Vegas, NV, 2000. US$49.95

“Ethnic Jewelry: From Africa, Europe and Asia”
By Sibylle Jargstorf, 160 pp., illus., publ. by Schiffer Publishing Co., Atglen, PA, 2000, US$29.95.

“Costume Jewelers: The Golden Age of Design, 3rd Ed”
By Joanne Dubbs Ball, 205 pp., illus., publ. by Schiffer Publishing Co., Atglen, PA, 2000, US$39.95

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @topic:6


Publish Year: 2023 Title: YNY Jewels: Designer Surbhi Pandya Abstract: Figure 1. Surbhi’s “Orient” earrings with tanzanite carvings surrounded by blue sapphires, emeralds, white diamonds, and tsavorite garnets with an upper flower-shaped dangle composed of faceted tanzanites, emeralds, and pink sapphires, all set in 18K white gold. The total diamond weight for the pair is 1.60 carats, and the total colored stone weight is 62.23 carats, 48.32 carats of which are from the two tanzanite carvings. Photo by Robert Weldon; courtesy of YNY Jewels Inc. and Karats Inc.
A dazzling pair of carved tanzanite earrings (figure 1) caught our attention at the GJX show. Designer Surbhi Pandya of YNY Jewels (New York), who goes by the single name Surbhi, described the significance of the carving featured on each of the large unheated tanzanite crystals. Depicted in violet and green is the lotus blossom, a flower with ancient cultural significance in India, rising with its deep roots from the mud without stains, symbolizing purity and strength. As the blossoms close up at night and reopen the next day, they also symbolize rebirth. Each carving is immediately surrounded by a ring of blue Kashmir sapphires and emeralds, followed by colorless diamonds and bright green tsavorite garnets. Each upper dangle contains faceted slices of tanzanite and emerald with a central hot pink sapphire. She also shared a pendant with a paisley-shaped unheated tanzanite similarly containing a lotus carving (figure 2). She explained that the paisley shape represents continuity and life.

Figure 2. An 18K white gold pendant containing a paisley-shaped unheated tanzanite with a lotus blossom carving, surrounded by pavé-set black diamonds and pink and purple princess-cut Sri Lankan sapphires. The total weight of the diamonds is 1.00 carats, and the colored stones total 23.40 carats. Photo by Robert Weldon; courtesy of YNY Jewels Inc.

Figure 3. Designer Surbhi. Photo by Jennifer Stone-Sundberg.
Surbhi (figure 3) has been making jewelry for 20 years and was trained by her father, Yogendra Sethi, a renowned artist in India. She described designing jewelry as a journey filled with energy. She does not make jewelry to please herself, but out of a drive to create things that speak to others. Surbhi shared stories of customers’ deeply personal connections with her jewelry, a profoundly rewarding experience for her as an artist. @topic:6


Publish Year: 2020 Title: Marble Imitation of Jadeite Rough Abstract: Figure 1. This 30 kg stone was submitted as a piece of jadeite rough. A narrow window (in the red circle) opened on the surface of the rough reveals a green material underneath the skin. Photo by Huang Jing.
In recent decades, jadeite prices have risen dramatically. Driven by profit, a variety of imitations are found in the jadeite jewelry market. Meanwhile, imitations such as quartzite are fixtures in the rough jadeite market. Recently, our research group received for testing a 30 kg stone that resembled jadeite rough and was submitted as such. The stone had a yellow weathered skin with a grainy texture, similar to jadeite. There was a narrow “window” (figure 1) that showed the green color of the material underneath the skin. For identification purposes, the authors exposed another area on the surface of the rough and then ground it for testing.
Due to the weight, some standard gemological testing methods could not be used, such as measurement of refractive index and specific gravity. Therefore, the sample was studied by visual and 10× loupe observation, hardness testing, chemical reagent detection, and infrared spectroscopy.

Figure 1. This 30 kg stone was submitted as a piece of jadeite rough. A narrow window (in the red circle) opened on the surface of the rough reveals a green material underneath the skin. Photo by Huang Jing.
Scratch testing revealed a Mohs hardness between 2 and 5, lower than jadeite’s hardness of 6–7. The surface was yellow, just like the weathered skin of jadeite rough, and the narrow window in figure 1 revealed green color below the skin. Scrubbing the window with alcohol removed the green color, indicating that the window had been dyed. To test the material, diluted hydrochloric acid was dropped on the newly exposed portion in figure 2. The acid foamed continuously, showing that the sample contained carbonate (Z. Hanli et al., “Study on acid polishing of carbonate white jade,” Journal of Gems and Gemmology, Vol. 5, No. 4, 2003, pp. 24–27). The acid testing combined with visible observations and hardness testing identified the sample as marble. The jadeite granular structure came from the marble’s cleavage planes.
Testing of the exposed part by infrared spectrometry revealed 1525, 1432, 1080, 883, 670, 553, and 483 cm–1 absorbance peaks, characteristic of serpentinized marble.
The serpentinized marble’s yellow weathered skin and grainy texture could have easily been mistaken for jadeite rough. This serves as an alert to the industry to be careful even when examining rough, as imitations are showing up. @topic:9


Publish Year: - Title: Rose Quartz History and Lore Abstract: Quartz crystals were valued by the ancient Egyptians as talismans with powers to prevent aging. - Bob Kammerling

                      Rose quartz beads dating back to 7000 BC have been found in the area once known as Mesopotamia (today’s Iraq). Rose quartz jewelry was known to be crafted by the Assyrians around 800-600 BC. The Assyrians, along with the Romans, might have been the first to use this stone.

People in the earliest recorded times believed in the magical powers of quartz. Ancient Roman, Egyptian, and Greek civilizations used quartz crystals as potent talismans. The Romans used rose quartz as a seal to signify ownership, and Egyptians believed the stone could prevent aging.

	The soft blush of rose quartz endeared the gem to early civilizations. Its rosy hue continues to appeal to modern jewelry lovers. – Bart Curren, courtesy Commercial Minerals
In the Middle Ages, medical practitioners used quartz in their healing potions. Early cultures of the Americas used quartz amulets. Known as the “love stone,” it was said to balance the emotions and to heal anger and disappointment.

	A quartz bead is the featured stone in this ancient Egyptian necklace. The strand
	consists of emerald, amethyst, and gold faience (a glazed ceramic). – Robert Weldon,
	on loan from the Royal Ontario Museum, Toronto, Canada @topic:8


Publish Year: - Title: Kunzite History and Lore Abstract: George Frederick Kunz

                      Kunzite is a relative newcomer to the array of colored stones available for use in jewelry. As the story goes, specimens of an as-yet-unidentified pink crystal were found in San Diego County, California, and sent to Tiffany & Co.’s mineralogist, George Frederick Kunz. The year was 1902. Kunz was able to confirm that the crystals were, in fact, spodumene, but the previously unrecognized color made the find a new variety of the mineral.

	This photograph of a kunzite crystal was taken by George F. Kunz, the pioneering gemologist the gem is named after. - Courtesy USGS
Charles Baskerville, a chemistry professor at the University of North Carolina and later the City College of New York, subsequently named kunzite in honor of George Kunz in 1903.

	This photograph shows Charles Baskerville’s historic collection of kunzite crystals. - Wendell Wilson
In the years since, kunzite has proven to be a highly desirable gem. Occurring in attractive shades of pink to violet, kunzite crystals are also often large, with relatively few inclusions. Though difficult to cut due to its two cleavage directions, it lends itself to lovely finished gems that show magnificently in fine jewelry.

	This lovely pendant features a pear-shaped kunzite with a diamond accent. - Robert Weldon, courtesy The Greenwood Group @topic:2


Publish Year: - Title: Secrets of a Master Gem Cutter Abstract: Michael M. DyberLedge Art Studio

	Interview with Michael M. Dyber, Ledge Art Studio
It may not be too much of a stretch to compare what Michelangelo did with marble and Rodin did with bronze to what Michael Dyber does with gemstone. For more than two decades, former plumber, welder and jewelry store-owner Dyber has been dazzling the world with his brilliant stone carvings ranging from sizes that fit in the palm of the hand to 12-lb quartz behemoths that can dominate a room.

Dyber is every bit the artist as legend would have it. He started sculpting gemstones without prior training, money, or reputation, and within two years had announced himself on the world stage at the Idar-Oberstein, Germany, precious stone carving competition, where he became the first American to be so highly recognized. His relentless drive to reinvent himself to keep ahead of his imitators has led Dyber to such gem-carving breakthroughs as his “Dyber Optic Dishes,” where concave impressions on the pavilions of his materials create illusions of impossible images in his works.

Dyber loves the challenge of working with exotic two-color ametrine and four-color quartz with handmade tools fashioned from commonplace raw material found around his house. In this video he offers his secrets on turning carpenter nails into drills and beech trees into wheels to approximate the tools carvers used centuries ago.

In the video Dyber also provides valuable insights on the modern colored stone market, wisdom on what makes an artist, and sage advice for the creative soul wherever its aspirations lead. The 2013 Tucson Gem Show where this interview took place gave us the opportunity to tap into the mind of one of the unique talents in modern art, and it is with great pride that we present it here. @topic:6


Publish Year: 2005 Title: Fall 2005 G&G Book Reviews Abstract: “Shinde Jewels”
By Reema Keswani, 79 pp., illus., publ. by Assouline Publishing, New York, 2004. US$18.95

“The History of Beads: From 30,000 B.C. To the Present”
By Lois Sherr Dubin, 364 pp., illus., publ. by Harry N. Abrams, New York, 2004. US$29.95

“Totems to Turquoise: Native North American Jewelry Arts of the Northwest and Southwest”
Edited by Kari Chalker, Lois S. Dubin, and Peter M. Whiteley, 224 pp., illus., publ. in association with the American Museum of Natural History by Harry N. Abrams, New York, 2004. US$45.00

“Exploration Criteria for Coloured Gemstone Deposits In the Yukon”
By Lori Walton, 184 pp., illus., publ. by the Yukon Geological Survey, Whitehorse, Canada, 2004. C$5.00 (no charge for PDF version). www.geology.gov.yk.ca

“The Pegmatite Mines Known as Palermo”
By Robert W. Whitmore and Robert C. Lawrence Jr., 213 pp., illus., published by The Friends of Palermo Mines, 2004. US$150.00

“Tourmalines of Malkhan”
By V. Ye. Zagorsky, I. S. Peretyazhko, and V. Ye. Kushnaryov, 31 pp., illus., publ. by the Institute of Geochemistry, Russian Academy of Sciences (Siberian Division) and Tourmalkhan Co., Irkutsk, Russia, 2005. US$20.00 (E- mail: victzag@igc.irk.ru)

“Gemstones: Quality and Value, Volume 1”
By Yasukazu Suwa, 143 pp., illus., publ. by Sekai Bunka Publishing, Tokyo (revised English edition), 2005. US$99.95

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @topic:8


Publish Year: 2002 Title: Winter 2002 G&G Book Reviews Abstract: “The Master Jewelers”
By A. Kenneth Snowman, Ed., 262 pp., illus., publ. by Thames & Hudson Inc., New York, 2002. US$29.95

“20th Century Jewelry: The Complete Source Book”
By John Peacock, 144 pp., illus., publ. by Thames & Hudson Inc., New York, 2002. US$34.95

“Louis Comfort Tiffany at Tiffany & Co.”
By John Loring, 255 pp., illus., publ. by Harry N. Abrams, New York, 2002. US$60.00

“The Love of Stones”
By Tobias Hill, 396 pp., publ. by Picador USA, New York, 2001, US$25.00

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @topic:6


Publish Year: 2019 Title: 2019 GSA Annual Meeting Abstract: Figure 1. Presenters and session hosts from the gemology session at the 2019 GSA annual meeting. Front row, left to right: Sarah Steele, Dr. Christopher M. Breeding, Kyaw Soe Moe, and Rachelle Turnier. Back row: Dr. Evan Smith, William Aertker, Dr. Aaron Palke, Dr. Sally Eaton-Magaña, Roy Bassoo, Dr. Wuyi Wang, Samuel Martin, Dr. Jim Shigley, and Dr. John Valley. Photo by Tao Hsu.

The Geological Society of America (GSA) annual meeting took place in Phoenix, Arizona, September 22–25. GIA participated in the exhibition and hosted speaker and poster sessions that attracted great attention on gemology among the geoscience community (figure 1).
The talks started with research by Dr. Tingting Gu (formerly with GIA) on lower-mantle inclusions trapped in a type IaB diamond. The study identified inclusions of hydrous ringwoodite, ferropericlase, and enstatite (a back-transformation product of bridgmanite). This was the first evidence of them occurring together at this depth of the earth, which will help to unravel the pyrolytic nature of the 660 km discontinuity. The study was presented by co-author Dr. Wuyi Wang  (GIA). Dr. Sally Eaton-Magaña  (GIA) presented a detailed study of natural radiation stains in diamonds. Temperature-controlled experiments revealed that the stains’ color changes from green to olive green at about 400°C and then to brown at about 550–600°C. Color-changing rates of different related defects were then carefully calculated. This study provides needed information about the reliability of using radiation stain color to identify diamond color as either natural or treated. Graduate student Roy Bassoo (Baylor University) put forward a source study of Guyana diamonds mined from alluvial gravels in the Amazon rainforest. Several possible primary diamond sources were proposed, and multiple advanced analytical methods were used on rough diamond crystals. Detrital zircon dating ruled out West Africa as a potential source. Inclusion and isotopic data suggest that these diamonds are of upper-mantle peridotite paragenesis, with a subpopulation of eclogite paragenesis and an undiscovered kimberlite source that still needs to be identified. Dr. Evan Smith (GIA) shared the characteristics of the newly discovered nickel sulfide mineral crowningshieldite (α-NiS). This mineral was found as inclusions in a so-called CLIPPIR diamond (Cullinan-like, Large, Inclusion-Poor, Pure, Irregular, and Resorbed) that came from 350–750 km below the earth’s surface. Crowningshieldite features one Ni atom connected to six sulfur atoms, while the known β-NiS features one connecting to five.
Dr. Christopher M. Breeding (GIA) discussed the rarity and color causes of orange diamonds. Orange diamonds account for only 2.4% of all colored diamonds, based on GIA’s intake database. Single substitutional nitrogen and the 480 nm band are the two major mechanisms responsible for this rare color. Of the two, the 480 nm absorption band is not well understood and has been proposed to be composed of substitutional oxygen atoms in the diamond lattice. At low concentration this defect causes yellow color, while at high concentration the color shifts to orange. Diamonds with this defect can also be heated to temporarily change their color to orange. Kyaw Soe Moe  (GIA) continued the discussion on the 480 nm band using the study results of a bicolor diamond. The 480 nm band was detected only in the brown-orange portion of this diamond. An interesting find was that the fluorescence image and optical image of this color zone do not match, which indicates that the 480 nm band caused color zoning that does not align with growth zones. This observation suggests that the defect causing the 480 nm absorption formed or penetrated the diamond after its growth. The authors proposed that the defect consists of localized vacancy clusters, in addition to other previously proposed possibilities.
Following a series of diamond presentations, the talks continued with colored gemstone discussions. Graduate student Samuel Martin (Brigham Young University) presented a geochemical comparison study of sapphires from Bingham Canyon in Utah and from Yogo Gulch, Montana. Although the two sapphire populations were formed 10 million years apart, they do broadly share the same trace element signatures, and both contain silica melt inclusions. Oxygen isotope study of both suggests that they have different protoliths, with Bingham Canyon sapphires as a mixture of multiple populations in the Bingham magma system. The study proposed that sapphires from both sources have been produced through partial melting of Al-rich rocks. Graduate student Rachelle Turnier  (University of Wisconsin–Madison) shared her research on the genesis of basalt-related gem corundum with zircon inclusions in samples from nine different sources around the globe. Through a combination of element mapping, growth texture imaging, zircon geochronology, apparent pressure estimation, oxygen isotope study, and in situ geochemical analyses, variations were revealed among these deposits, which have generally been grouped in a single category. PhD candidate William Aertker (Colorado School of Mines) discussed the genesis of metasomatic sapphire from the Whitehorn stock metamorphic aureole in central Colorado. Sapphires occur within a ductile shear zone that experienced contact metamorphism. Extensive evidence suggests that desilication was not the only process involved in corundum formation. Element exchange must have happened at the same time, and ductile shearing facilitated fluid channeling to facilitate this exchange process, known as metasomatism. Retired geologist Charles Breitsprecher (California State University, Sacramento) presented a self-funded field investigation of sunstone from three mines in southeast Oregon. The occurrence and regional geology were discussed. Gemologist and professional lapidary Sarah Steele talked about her archaeogemological and chemistry study on gem-quality jet, including its use since the Upper Paleolithic and the market for it today. The author’s analyses found 33 different hydrocarbons and biopolymers that are used as gems, which goes beyond the current commonly used definition for jet. Dr. Aaron Palke  (GIA) closed the session with a presentation on the newly recognized mineral johnkoivulaite (Cs[Be2B]Mg2Si6O18), named in honor of renowned GIA researcher John Koivula. This new member of the beryl group was discovered in Mogok, an area full of opportunities to expand the mineral family. Due to its special structure, johnkoivulaite does not contain as much water as other members of the beryl group.

Figure 2. GSA poster presenters shared their latest research. Photo by Tao Hsu.
This year’s poster session featured five presenters (figure 2). Dr. Qishen Zhou (China University of Geosciences, Wuhan) presented two posters, on the results of colored diamond and sapphire auctions, respectively. Dr. Zhou and his team collected more than 50,000 auction results over the past decade. These results are representative of the global auction sector, including the Chinese domestic auction sector, which is not well known to the rest of the industry. The colored diamond study poster focused on pink and blue diamonds. Both studies explored the relationship between auction results and the quality factors of the stones. The authors found that color largely determines colored diamonds’ auction prices, while both color and carat weight have a high impact on sapphire. Dr. Aaron Palke (GIA) delivered research on rare rubies found in blue sapphire–dominant deposits. The study compared sapphires and rarely encountered rubies from four different sources. Geochemical results indicate that the trace element Cr, which causes the red color, behaves quite independently of the other trace elements. However, trace elements other than Cr share similarity between sapphires and rubies from the same deposit, which was also supported by inclusion scenes. Paul Johnson (GIA) displayed an interesting research project on melee-size HPHT lab-grown diamonds, which have a different crystal shape from large crystals made with the same method. The authors used element mapping of nickel to reveal the growth structure of these small diamonds. The results indicated multiple growth stages of the small lab-grown diamonds, which explained their elongated crystal shape. Garrett McElhenny (GIA) presented a study on type IIa pink diamonds. The author studied a suite of 30 samples with inclusions using Raman spectroscopy. The inclusions identified were mainly of sublithospheric origin. The existence of sublithospheric inclusions again proved that these diamonds came from the sublithospheric mantle.
The 2020 GSA annual meeting is scheduled for October 25–28 in Montreal. @topic:8


Publish Year: 2003 Title: Fall 2003 G&G Book Reviews Abstract: “The Eras of the Diamond”
By Jules Roger Sauer, publ. by Amsterdam Sauer, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, 2003, price available on request. E-mail: julessauer@amsterdamsauer.com

“Jadeite Jade, A Stone & A Culture”
By Chiu Mei Ou Yang, 184 pp., illus., publ. by the Hong Kong Institute of Gemmology, 2003. US$45.00

“Pegmatology: Pegmatite Mineralogy, Petrology and Petrogenesis”
By William “Skip” Simmons, Karen L. Webber, Alexander U. Falster, and James W. Niamoff, 176 pp., illus., publ. by Rubellite Press, New Orleans, LA, 2003. US$47.50

“At the Bench: An Illustrated Guide to Working with Gold & Silver”
By Gregg Todd and Greg Gilman, 116 pp., illus., publ. by MJSA/AJM Press, Providence, RI, 2002, US$28.50

“Auction Market Resource”
June 2003, Vol. 10, No. 1. Publ. by Gail Brett Levine, P.O. Box 7683, Rego Park, NY 11374-7683. Tel: 718-897-7305. Available by subscription: $195.00 in the U.S., $250.00 elsewhere

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @topic:11


Publish Year: - Title: Summer 2012 G&G Book Reviews Abstract: “Cartier at Prague Castle: The Power of Style”
By the Prague Castle Administration, 322 pp., illus., publ. by Flammarion, Paris, 2010. US$49.95

“Lapis Lazuli: In Pursuit of a Celestial Stone”
By Sarah Searight, 228 pp., soft cover, illus., publ. by East and West Publishing Ltd., London, 2010. US$42.00

“Russian Alexandrites”
By Karl Schmetzer, with contributions from George Bosshart, Marina Epelboym, Lore Kiefert, and Anna Kathrin Malsy, 141 pp., illus., publ. by Schweizerbart Science Publishers, Stuttgart, Germany, 2010. US$49.90

“Sacred & Symbolic: Ancient India and the Lure of Its Diamonds”
By Hugh Durey, 190 pp., illus., publ. by the author, www.hughdurey.com, 2010. US$79.00

“Understanding Rough Gemstones”
By Shyamala Fernandes and Gagan Choudhary, 213 pp., illus., publ. by the Indian Institute of Jewelry, Mumbai, 2010. US$25.00

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @topic:6


Publish Year: 1985 Title: Winter 1985 G&G Book Reviews Abstract: “Gem Cutting: A Lapidary's Manual”
By John Sinkankas, 365 pp., illus., publ. by Van Nostrand Reinhold Co., New York, NY, 1984. US$46.95

“Jade for You: Value Guide to Fine-Quality Jade”
By John Y. Ng and Edmond Root, 107 pp., illus., Jade LV Gem Corp., Los Angeles, CA, 1984. US$49.95

“Gems and Jewels: A Connoisseur's Guide”
By Benjamin Zucker, 248 pp., illus., publ. by Thames and Hudson, New York, NY, 1984. US$50.00

“Manual of Mineralogy (After James D. Dana)”
By Cornelis Klein and Cornelius S.Hurlburt, Jr., 596 pp., illus., publ. by John Wiley & Sons, New York, NY, 1985. US$35.95

“The Barakat Gallery: A Catalogue of the Collection”
Vol. I, 319 pp., illus., publ. by The Barakat Gallery, Beverly Hills, CA, 1985.

“Benitoite: California State Gemstone”
By G. D. Louderback, 76 pp., illus., publ. by Gemmary, Redondo Beach, CA, 1985. US$5.00 @topic:6


Publish Year: 2021 Title: Blue Zircon Reportedly from Malawi Abstract: This suite of zircons, reportedly from Malawi, shows unheated brown starting material, examples of rough material after heat treatment, and six examples of faceted stones (the largest stone weighs 7.70 ct). Photo by Diego Sanchez; courtesy of Phoenix Gems.
Blue zircon is perhaps best known from Cambodia, with most if not all of the material recovered as brown stones that turn blue upon heating. Recently, Brent Smith of Phoenix Gems supplied us with a parcel of rough and cut zircons (see above) reportedly from a new deposit in Malawi. According to Smith, the mine is located in southern Malawi, near Maripa in the district of Chikwawa. The Michigan-based Phoenix Gems is in partnership with Malawi locals Jepther Ngwira and Matthias Chimbuto, who oversee mining. Heat treating and cutting operations are handled by Smith in the United States. Smith also reported that fewer than 10 kg of material has been produced to date, much of which he has heat treated using a proprietary process to produce a range of blue and some bicolor blue and colorless stones. So far, only about 20 stones have been faceted.
Gemological testing revealed properties consistent with blue zircon, including a refractive index that was over the limit of the RI liquid (with a value of 1.81), a hydrostatic SG of 4.52, and a handheld visible spectrum typical for zircon, with the most prominent feature being a sharp absorption line visible at about 654 nm. Exposing the rough blue stones to long-wave ultraviolet light for more than 90 seconds did not induce any UV reaction or obvious change in color, as has been previously reported in blue zircon (N. Renfro, “Reversible color modification of blue zircon by long-wave ultraviolet irradiation,” Fall 2016 G&G, pp. 246–251). Microscopic examination revealed minute needle-like inclusions, partially healed fractures, and prominent blue and colorless zoning, although the stones were relatively free of inclusions. The unpolarized ultraviolet/visible/near-infrared (UV-Vis-NIR) spectrum consisted of a broad absorption band centered at approximately 640 nm, which is the cause of the observed blue color and is seen in the absorption spectrum of blue zircons from other localities. Laser ablation–inductively coupled plasma–mass spectrometry (LA-ICP-MS) chemical analysis confirmed the bulk composition was consistent with zircon, and major trace elements included the rare earth elements yttrium and hafnium as well as transition metals titanium and scandium.
In all, this new source of blue zircon reportedly from Malawi has the potential to yield some beautiful finished stones and is a welcome addition to the gem trade. @topic:3


Publish Year: 2017 Title: Tourmaline and Sapphire from Nigeria Abstract: Figure 1. High-quality rubellite rough is highly sought after in the Asian market. Photo by Eric Welch/GIA, courtesy of Zoe Michelou.

	Zoe Michelou, marketing manager for a Nigerian mining company, gave an update in Tucson on the production of gemstones, particularly tourmaline. She primarily handles sales and marketing of rubellite from Oyo State, where there are around 350 pits. There are usually 10 to 15 miners per pit. The miners descend 10 to 20 meters by ladder to the bottom of a pit, and then the pegmatites are blasted and tunneled before extraction. Some tunnels are linked when production overlaps, improving air circulation. Pits can be very close together, although some larger open-pit operations have excavators in the pits and carts to remove the ore. Rubellite is concentrated in pockets within the pegmatites. There are plans to increase mechanization and redesign tunnel orientation and air circulation, thus increasing blasting cycles and production, and new pockets are being discovered.

	Miners are provided with food and tools, as well as by profit sharing based on the value of the production. There are plans to include a salary, health care, and a bonus on production. Sometimes miners can recover one ton of rubellite from a large pocket. Large single crystals can easily reach 18 kg or more. The rubellite is kept in a safe and then transported to the city of Ibadan for grading every two to three weeks, depending on production. Currently there are only three to four quality categories. Most of the material is now shipped to Bangkok for final grading and sale. A new facility is planned to perform the final grading in Nigeria, with training of locals to create parcels for international clientele. Many of the rubellite crystals sent to Bangkok weigh 1 kg or more.

	There are also alluvial deposits where rubellite pebbles can be recovered without moving too much earth. In Kwara State there is a significant production of indicolite and green tourmaline, including some pink and bicolor. Most of the mining is still near the surface, with a few deeper pits. The first production of indicolite tourmaline sent to Bangkok had crystals of 2–34 grams ranging from commercial to very high quality.

	Currently, the Nigerian company is focused on selling rough rubellite (figure 1) through the Bangkok office and trade shows to the international market, especially in East Asia. The clients are mainly rough dealers and manufacturers from China, Hong Kong, and Thailand. This year, the company will start a training program for grading at the mining site in Nigeria. In the future, rough will be sorted and graded prior to shipment to Bangkok.

	The parent company that Michelou represents has acquired 1,000 square kilometers for sapphire exploration, prospecting, and mining licenses in the Mambilla Plateau area of Taraba State. Nigeria has produced large quantities of fine-quality basalt-related sapphires. Extraction should start by late spring, with sales expected by the end of 2017 or beginning of 2018. They will only sell rough sapphires in selected markets. The initial washing plant will be able to handle 50 tons of ore per hour. Good-quality material weighing 3 to 5 grams is already being recovered. Security will be tight, and dealers from the Cameroon side of the border currently buying from unlicensed miners have already been restricted from the commercial mining area. Transparent supply from the mine to rough markets is an important part of the marketing strategy. The company will soon implement a detailed grading system for rough sapphires.

	The company primarily sells rough but also sells some cut stones to manufacturing jewelers worldwide. Michelou sees an increase in manufacturing jewelers buying rough, including tourmaline and sapphire, and having it cut instead of just purchasing finished stones. By doing so, they can guarantee traceability of the stones all the way to the customer.

Figure 2. A sampling of Nigerian indicolites after fashioning. Photo by Eric Welch/GIA, courtesy of Zoe Michelou. @topic:9


Publish Year: 2018 Title: Meeting of the International Mineralogical Association Abstract: The 22nd meeting of the International Mineralogical Association (IMA), the first held in Australia and only the second in the Southern Hemisphere, took place in the Melbourne Convention and Exhibition Centre August 13–17, 2018. The meeting was hosted by the Geological Society of Australia.
Two technical sessions on gems were presented to about 100 attendees. The August 13 session, “Sciences Behind Gemstone Treatments,” was chaired by Andy Shen (China University of Geosciences, Wuhan) and Pornsawat Wathanakul (Gem and Jewelry Institute of Thailand). The second day’s session, titled “Recent Advances in Our Understanding of Gem Minerals” and led by Ian Graham (University of New South Wales, Australia), Lee Groat (University of British Columbia, Canada), and Gaston Giuliani (University of Lorraine, France), is detailed below.
The session consisted of 18 oral presentations covering several gem topics. Frederick Sutherland (Australian Museum, Sydney) opened with a keynote talk on the diversity in the geochemistry and inclusions of ruby from Myanmar and eastern Australia. He also discussed the ages of ruby formation through zircon ages and the P-T conditions through inclusion assemblages.
The other talks concerned different types of gems from supergene minerals up to corundum and spinel, including mining discoveries and activities from ancient and modern ages. Ruslan Kostov (Sofia University of Mining and Geology, Bulgaria) presented the archeological mineralogy of the Balkans through prehistoric (7 to 5 million BCE) gem minerals (nephrite, jadeite, talc, gabbros, jasper, and turquoise) and gold. Lee Groat revealed recent advances in colored gemstones in Canada, focusing on emerald from Yukon and blue spinel, sapphire, and scapolite from Baffin Island, as well as the use of different techniques such as drones for exploration. Peter Lyckberg (Luxembourg) offered a detailed state-of-the art presentation on the mining of gem pegmatites in Afghanistan and Pakistan, with amazing photos of aquamarine, kunzite, indicolite, and spessartine crystals from deposits in the High Karakoram range. Wim Vertriest (GIA, Bangkok) discussed the dynamics of gemstone discoveries and the challenges for research on the basis of timing the life of a deposit and the market perception of the gems’ quality.
Different techniques for source determination of gems were also presented. Hao Wang (SSEF, Basel, Switzerland) related the advances in origin determination for gems using inductively coupled plasma time-of-flight (ICP-TOF) spectroscopy, with applications for blue sapphires and emeralds. Zhiqing Zhang (China University of Geosciences, Wuhan) used Fourier-transform infrared (FTIR) characteristics of amber from different areas of the world for origin determination. Allan Pring (Flinders University, Adelaide, Australia) related the use of multiple techniques on 200 opal samples of various origins, showing their similarities and differences. Kemela Wijayanti (Padjadjaran University, Indonesia) combined petrographic analysis with scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and X-ray fluorescence (XRF) techniques to characterize green jasper from southern Java. Peter Downes (Western Australian Museum, Perth) applied multiple techniques on variscite and associated phosphate minerals from the Mt. Deverell deposits in the Gascoyne region of Western Australia. Isabella Pignatelli (University of Lorraine) reported on the use of electron microprobe analysis, SEM, and X-ray tomographic images for characterizing trapiche ruby from Luc Yen in northern Vietnam.
New studies combining fieldwork with mineralogy and geochemistry were presented for several types of gems. Philippe Belley (University of British Columbia) discussed advances in trace-element fingerprinting for blue spinel and new insights into the origin of cobalt-blue spinel from Baffin Island in Canada. This author gave an update on gem demantoid garnet from Madagascar’s Antetezambato deposit, based on new field data, and geochemical analysis of the most important demantoid deposits worldwide. Simon Pecover (Pan Gem Resources) coupled tectonic, hydrodynamic, rheologic, and shear-induced crystallization processes in the formation of opal veins in Australia, showing that the genetic model for the formation of Australian opal is more complex than previously known. Ahmadjan Abduriyim (Tokyo Gem Science) used the U/Pb method on zircon inclusions for determining the formation ages of sapphires from the New England fields in New South Wales. Kandy Wang (University of New South Wales) presented data obtained on ruby from Paranesti, Greece, specifying the geographic typing of ruby via oxygen isotopes and trace elements. Nick Raffan, also of the University of New South Wales, combined fieldwork with remote sensing, petrographic analysis, and SEM to decipher the source of sapphires near tertiary volcanic plugs and Devonian conglomerates from Tomahawk Creek in central Queensland. Ian Graham related the presence of unusual alluvial sapphires from Orosmayo in Argentina using a multi-analytical approach to uncover their origin.
This session was followed by an evening meeting at the Gemmological Association of Australia (GAA) House in Melbourne, under the direction of Margaret Blood, president of the GAA’s Victorian Division, and organized by Andy Shen and Pornsawat Wathanakul. The meeting was open to all researchers who participated in the two gem sessions of IMA and to Australian gemologists. The meeting consisted of three hour-long talks by this author on Colombian emeralds, Lee Groat on spinel and sapphire from Baffin Island, and Brendan Laurs (Journal of Gemmology) on pegmatites of Namibia. @topic:2


Publish Year: 2017 Title: Colorful Chatoyant Glass Abstract: Starburst Stone is a colorful new devitrified glass, reminiscent of the product once marketed as Victoria Stone. Photo by Kevin Schumacher; courtesy of Australian Rough and Tumble.

This year at the Tucson gem shows, this author encountered an interesting new product of chatoyant devitrified glass (glass that has converted to a crystalline material) marketed as “Starburst Stone.” This material (see above) closely resembles the chatoyant glass known as Victoria Stone, which was developed in Japan by Dr. Satoyasu Iimori in the 1950s and produced for almost 40 years (http://victoriastone.sakura.ne.jp/JP-30-88-B.pdf).

John Bennett, in partnership with Artur Birkner (both based in Perth, Western Australia), began developing Starburst Stone in 2013, and this is the first year of commercially available production (approximately 100 kilograms). This devitrified glass is made from a chemical mixture that is cooled at a rate to facilitate nucleation and growth of dense networks of elongate lath-like crystals, and each batch of glass is colored by the addition of certain metals. Darker blues are achieved by adding cobalt, lighter blue by adding copper, and green by adding chromium to the glass mixture.

Standard gemological testing revealed properties consistent with manufactured glass. The RI was between 1.51 and 1.52 and varied slightly between the different colors tested. The average SG, measured hydrostatically, was 2.62. Raman analysis identified the devitrification product responsible for the chatoyancy as apatite, which was also responsible for the chatoyancy in the devitrified glass product known as Victoria stone.

Dark and light blue, green, and golden Starburst Stones are being manufactured, with additional colors in development. This new ornamental glass showing chatoyancy is a welcome addition to the gem trade. Those interested in the material once sold as Victoria Stone will certainly appreciate this very similar phenomenal glass product. @topic:3


Publish Year: - Title: An Inside Look at the 2016 Tucson Shows Abstract: Assorted goods in calibrated sizes sold very well at the shows. Photo by Tao Hsu.

	Every year in February, colored stone miners, dealers, cutters, and retailers from around the world converge at the several major gem and mineral shows in Tucson, Arizona. In 2016, GIA once again interviewed industry professionals who presented spectacular gems and provided revealing insights on the global market. Links to these interviews are listed below.

GILC 2016
	A report from the International Colored Gemstone Association’s Gemstone Industry & Laboratory Conference (GILC), held in Tucson, Arizona on February 1, 2016.
Read more

Wheel of Light’s Mesmerizing Optics
	A closer look at the Spectrum award-winning pendant from Nature’s Geometry.
Read more

Paula Crevoshay’s American Collection, Plus Jewelry with Nontraditional Gemstones
	Lesser-known gem materials are seen in pieces alongside a collection created as an artistic inheritance for future generations of jewelry fans.
Read more

Jewelry Television in Tucson
	A look at JTV’s history, current activities, and impact on the industry.
Read more

Update on the Scorpion Tsavorite Mine
	A look at the resumed operations and new production of Kenya’s Scorpion tsavorite mine.
Read more

Imperial Flame Topaz Sculpture
	An Imperial topaz rough crystal is carved into a stunning freeform gem.
Read more

Fordite from the Corvette Assembly Plant
	Freeform fordite accumulated from a now-defunct method of painting automobiles was on display at Tucson.
Read more

Rare Emerald from China and Pink Sapphire from Sri Lanka
	An emerald from a largely unexplored Chinese deposit is seen at Tucson, along with a pink sapphire recut after removal from a necklace.
Read more

Afghan Emerald, Tajik Ruby, and Clarity-Enhanced Tourmaline
	Updates on Afghan and Tajik materials, as well as treatment options to improve the clarity of various types of tourmaline.
Read more @topic:11


Publish Year: - Title: Shane McClure Abstract: Many of GIA’s most influential leaders, past and present, have become synonymous with the world of gemology. Such is the case for Shane McClure, recently named the global director of colored stone services. In the 37 years since he joined GIA, McClure has become an internationally recognized authority in the field of gem identification.

	A native Californian, McClure began his career at the Institute as a staff gemologist in the downtown Los Angeles laboratory shortly after earning his GG at the Santa Monica campus in 1978. There, he co-founded the identification services department in 1980. He rose through the ranks, supervising and then managing identification services before assuming the role of director of West Coast identification services in 1999. Among the developments that took place under his tenure was the issuance of clarity enhancement reports in natural emerald (starting in 2000), the identification of new treatments and composite techniques, and steps toward clearer nomenclature for corundum, jade, turquoise, and many other gem materials.

	Over the past few decades, McClure has built a reputation as a knowledgeable speaker who lectures around the world on gemological issues. He has authored or co-authored numerous articles on topics such as the diffusion treatment of corundum, the identification of bleached and polymer-impregnated  “B” jade, Zachery-treated turquoise and classifying emerald clarity enhancement. To date, he has authored 29 articles for Gems & Gemology, 15 of which have won the journal’s Most Valuable Article award. Notable G&G articles include articles fracture-filled diamonds with Robert Kammerling, identification of lead-glass-filled rubies (winner of the AGS Liddicoat Journalism Award in 2006), and gemstone enhancement and detection in both the 1990s and 2000s. He has also served as the journal’s Lab Notes editor since 1997.

	McClure is also an exceptional gemstone and jewelry photographer who utilizes both macro- and photomicrography in his work. His work has illustrated numerous articles, including those on the Dresden Green diamond and lead glass–filled rubies. His photograph of an emerald rosary, recovered from the Nuestra Señora de Atocha shipwreck, graced the cover of G&G’s Winter 1989 issue.

	For his efforts in the field of gemology, he was named GIA’s Staff of the Year member in 1989, and presented with the AGA’s Antonio Bonnano Award for Excellence in 2007.  While his contributions to the industry are myriad, no one can doubt that his work is a labor of love. In his own words, “I love what I’m doing…it’s an ever-changing job, and it keeps me interested.” @topic:8