Title: Spinel Description Abstract: Pink to red spinel is in high demand among gem connoisseurs. - Courtesy a Private Collector and Mona Lee Nesseth, Custom Estate Jewels

                      Spinel, like garnet and diamond, is singly refractive, with the same physical properties in all crystal directions. It belongs to the cubic crystal system, and its characteristic crystal shape is an octahedron, which looks like two back-to-back pyramids. Well-formed spinel crystals are fairly common in nature.

	Spinel specimens range from extraordinary crystals to beautifully cut stones. - Jeffrey Scovil, courtesy Barker & Co
Spinel can also form flattened crystals that look radically different from octahedral crystals. The flattened shape occurs when the pyramids that form an octahedron rotate against each other during growth. Scientists describe this as a “twinned crystal.” Large gems cut from good-color twinned crystals are typically shallow, and should be judged on their overall beauty rather than on proportions alone.

	The fashioned spinel is from Sri Lanka, while the rough crystals are from Myanmar. The second crystal from the right is an octahedron. The other crystals rotated during growth and appear flattened. Scientists call them twinned crystals.
The spinel used in jewelry is a small part of a group of minerals that share the same crystal structure. Not all of them form transparent crystals suitable for jewelry use, however. Spinel offers a range of hues, from orange to intense “stoplight” red, vibrant pink, and all shades of purple, blue, and violet through bluish green.
Intense reds and pinks are caused by traces of chromium. The higher the chromium content, the stronger the red hue. Orange and purple stones owe their color to a mixture of iron and chromium.

	Spinel comes in beautiful red, pink, purple, and blue colors.
Violet to blue spinel can be colored by trace amounts of iron, and vibrant blues owe their saturated color to trace amounts of cobalt. Source: GIA @topic:3


Title: The (Creative) Paths Less Taken: Takeaways from GIA’s 2019 Creative Careers Panel Abstract: Creative Careers Panelists at the 2019 Jewelry Career Fair in Carlsbad are, from left: moderator Mark Smelzer, publisher of JCK and JCKOnline.com; Baba Blumkin, president and co-founder of Luxe Jewelry and Loan; Wade Clar, Jr., director of brand development for Julez Bryant; Alexandra Hart, designer and goldsmith; Jenny Luker, president of Platinum Guild International USA and Tiffany Stevens, CEO and general counsel of the Jewelers Vigilance Committee. Video Duration: 1:21:15
“Go out and make yourself a little uncomfortable” was perhaps the outstanding theme of this year’s “Creative Careers Panel” during the 2019 GIA Carlsbad Jewelry Career Fair.
And by going out, panelist Wade Clar, Jr., director of brand development for Julez Bryant, means attending events like this one. He encouraged attendees to step out and make new connections, learn new things and throw old assumptions out the window.
The panelists, guided by moderator Mark Smelzer, publisher of JCK magazine and JCKonline.com, offered advice as they shared their experiences with attendees.
Takeaway One: Step Out of Your Comfort Zone
Each panelist’s path had one thing in common: it started when they stepped out of their comfort zone.
Baba Blumkin, president and co-founder of Luxe Jewelry and Loan, spent his early days selling diamonds door-to-door, carrying goods worth a quarter of a million on his back. “You learn to deal with people saying no,” he said.
Alexandra Hart, a metal artist and designer goldsmith, got her first job by sending her resume to every jewelry company she found in the yellow pages.
For some on the panel, discomfort wasn’t in facing the unknown, but rather in being trapped in the supposed “good life.” Tiffany Stevens, CEO and general counsel of the Jewelers Vigilance Committee (JVC), was only weeks into a dream law firm job when she realized she was at the wrong place. In the next two decades, she bounced from an investment firm to a startup, began a non-profit for at-risk girls and wrote grants for pediatric medical research, before finally landing at JVC.
“Just because it looks right on the outside doesn’t mean it feels right on the inside,” she said about her earlier experiences.

Wade Clar Jr., director of brand development for Julez Bryant, (center) makes a point during the Creative Careers presentation. From left, moderator Mark Smelzer, publisher of JCK and JCKOnline,(standing), Baba Blumkin, president and co-founder of Luxe Jewelry and Loan, Clar, and Alexandra Hart, designer and goldsmith. Photo by Eric Welch
Takeaway Two: Make Connections
These panelists, many of them leaders of accredited industry organizations, couldn’t say enough about the value of joining jewelry organizations and how these organizations helped them make connections and find mentors and friends.
Clar, a GIA Jewelry Business Management (JBM) and Bachelor of Business Administration (BBA) graduate, found his first job in the jewelry industry at a GIA Career Fair. This first job in wholesale opened the door for him to work in retail, and his experiences led him to be invited to speak on a Women’s Jewelry Association (WJA) panel. That’s where he met and was hired by his current boss, the designer Julez Bryant, who was a fellow WJA member and panel speaker.
Clar said he is bold about approaching people, because “sometimes you have that connection.” The people who liked him didn’t always have a position open at their company, but they created one for him. He said networking is the most challenging but also the most rewarding part of being in the industry.
Jenny Luker, president of Platinum Guild International and WJA, emphasized the importance of having mentors. She cited Kathryn Kimmel, retired senior vice president and chief marketing officer of GIA, as an inspirational mentor who has helped her over the years.
“This is a very open-arms industry,” Stevens seconded. “Look for people who are retiring who can be your champions. A lot of people love this industry and want to see it thrive.”
Takeaway Three: Work Hard and Pursue Your Interests (they may not be what you think they are)
Hart often hears people speak wistfully about their far-off dreams. Her answer: “If you really wanted to do it that much, you’d already be doing it.”
Hart’s two main passions are social justice and the arts. The challenge (or dream), she said, is combining both. A jewelry designer who is also the president of the Ethical Metalsmiths, she has managed to do what one student called: “improving the human cost of jewelry throughout the world” while remaining an “artistic wild-child.”
What makes Alexandra Hart come alive every day? “Shepherding” her different interests together. “The closer they come together, the better I feel,” she said. “It’s a rush.”
Smelzer’s advice to job-seekers: “Embrace the work in front of you. Don’t be afraid to start (over) from the bottom.”
Luker’s advice is similar: “I started out at Platinum Guild International (PGI) answering telephones, while studying to become a sociology professor.” Now she is Platinum Guild International’s CEO.
Blumkin, with true entrepreneurial spirit, suggested that job-seekers don’t have to wait around for the perfect job. “You can create your perfect job,” after lots of industry experience of course. “You can have 10 jobs and get a feather in your cap from each one. Then you create your perfect job.”
Hart counseled along the same lines: “Working for someone else gives you a good idea of how you would want to do things yourself.”
Clar’s succinct advice? “Get your feet wet. Connect the dots … tough times don’t last. Tough people do.”

Hart, left, and Tiffany Stevens, CEO and general counsel of the Jewelers Vigilance Committee, right, listen while Jenny Luker, president of the Platinum Guild International USA, speaks. Photo by Eric Welch
Takeaway Four: Learn Something New Every Day
One habit these panelists have in common? They set aside time to learn.
Luker blocks out an hour every Friday morning, no matter how full her inbox is, to read or watch videos about the industry and to ask questions of her colleagues abroad. “People know not to schedule meetings for that time. They know that time is important to me,” she said.
Hart reads industry magazines, such as JCK or National Jeweler, every morning.
Smelzer enjoys reading and learning things on his cellphone, which he finds calming and anxiety-reducing. “In the two-thousands, a huge advantage we have is that the whole world is in our cellphones,” he said.
For Blumkin, every day is a learning opportunity. “Clients are always bringing in antique pieces on the fly,” he said, and he has to make quick decisions about what to buy and then identify the maker’s marks and time period of each acquired piece. “No matter how good you are, there’s so much out there, you can’t know everything.”
Stevens, who hails from New York City, said every day is an extracurricular activity. She never knows what note each day will end on, but she finds small ways of declaring victory.
“A big career means big emotions,” she explained. “Big emotions don’t mean you’re doing it wrong; it just means you’re doing it.”
Editor’s Note: To hear each speaker’s introduction about themselves in the video, reference the time stamps below:

Mark Smelzer: Beginning
Baba Blumkin: 5:50
Wade Clar, Jr.: 12:33
Alexandra Hart: 20:59
Jenny Luker: 28:04
Tiffany Stevens: 34:03
Read about and watch the Opening Session of the 2019 Jewelry Career Fair in Carlsbad. Source: GIA @topic:9


Title: Melee: Building Blocks of Contemporary Design Abstract: Melee can be used to ornament a wide variety of contours and shapes such as on this extraordinary ring. Courtesy of JYE's International

An important element of the gem and jewelry industry, melee can create a modern look and elegant design patterns. Designers need to know about it, and so do professionals all along the value chain.

GIA defines melee (pronounced meh-lee) as small diamonds and gemstones weighing less than 1/5 carat (ct), but size ranges vary from country to country and from one segment of the trade to another. Melee are often cut into a round shape, but are available in a variety of  shapes: emerald, princess, radiant, marquise and more. New design and manufacturing technology is enabling more ornate and complicated jewelry that is in high demand.

Dealers may use sieves such as these to sort melee into different sizes.
The more diamonds in a piece of jewelry, the more sparkle it has. Due to their small size, melee diamonds are inexpensive when compared to larger diamond center stones, so they are often generously used in engagement ring designs to add brightness and scintillation.

Melee are often used to enhance nearby stones and to make decorative patterns. They are also used to add sparkle to bracelets, necklaces, earrings, watches and other types of jewelry.
Melee color grades are usually not very detailed: “Face up white” (D-H colors) and “Top light browns” (M-O colors) are examples. Clarity grades are described similarly, such as “Eye clean” for no visible inclusions to the unaided eye. Jewelry manufacturers then strive to match the color of the center stone to the color of melee.

There are approximately 9.50 ct of melee (791 round diamonds) in this 18K white gold bracelet. If the melee were not carefully matched for color, the bracelet would lose much of its elegant beauty. Courtesy of Uneek
Melee diamonds are produced in large quantities in factories that use the latest diamond cutting equipment. High-tech machines have reduced the amount of labor required and improved the quality of the finished product, but cutting and sorting melee is still a labor intensive business. The city of Surat in India is an important manufacturing hub for diamonds, including melee which are faceted, sorted, and sold in parcels of 100 carats or more to jewelry manufacturers (parcels can have over 400 melee). A single piece of jewelry can have dozens or even hundreds of melee stones.

Just like larger carat diamonds, the ability to detect simulants and synthetic (lab-grown) melee diamonds is important to the trade. In the past few years, companies have introduced automated systems like GIA’s Melee Analysis Service, which cost-effectively analyzes and sorts natural diamond melee from synthetic.

Melee in Jewelry Design

Creative jewelry designers are using tiny pieces of melee to make a big statement. They’re incorporating it to add scintillation to engagement rings, and to create a realistic or whimsical look in large, organic curved surfaces (colored gems are often used as melee).

The gradations of color in this ring was accomplished by cutting benitoite into melee. Courtesy of the Columbia Gem House Inc.
In engagement rings, matching the color of melee to the color of the center stone is important. When it does match, the results can be breathtaking. A halo made of melee can make the center stone appear larger. Decorative patterns of melee can create visual interest. But if the melee is darker or lighter than the center stone it’s likely to create an unattractive appearance.

Melee used to create a halo can add additional sparkle and make the center stone appear larger. This platinum engagement ring features a 1 ct center stone with 0.5 total carat weight of melee in the halo and shank. Courtesy of Blue Nile.
When working with melee in jewelry design, it’s important to understand the difference between “carat weight” and “total carat weight,” because diamond weight is a driving factor in determining price. Total carat weight, often abbreviated (tcw) in the jewelry industry, is used to describe the combined weight of all the diamonds in a piece of jewelry that only contains diamonds. The description carat weight (ct) only applies to an individual stone, like the center stone. A ring with many small diamonds with a 2.50 tcw can cost significantly less than a solitaire engagement ring with a single diamond weighing 2.50 ct.

Common Setting Styles for Melee

Bead and Bright: Small beads hold the stones in place in this popular style of bead setting. The bead setting is surrounded by a bright-cut wall that helps to reflect light into the diamond.
Channel: This is a technique where single or multiple stones are secured between two opposing walls with channel supports below. This setting does not have beads or prongs to secure the stone.
Pavé: Another bead-style setting, pavé is setting stones in three or more rows with hand-raised beads that hold them in place.
Prong: Metal supports secure a gemstone and are part of a setting. Prong settings show more of the gemstone by using less metal than other setting styles.

Melee Design and Engineering Challenges

Using melee requires striking a balance between design and engineering. For example, placing melee in every available location on a brooch may impress customers, but if the piece is not designed for this type of application it may not be durable.

Also, setting styles such as pavé, bead and channel require the removal of metal from jewelry. However, removing too much metal from an improperly engineered piece can result in structural weakness and failure during daily wear.
GIA Quality Assurance Benchmarks (QABs™) are criteria for evaluating the design, engineering and manufacture of jewelry and are taught in the GIA Jewelry Design & Technology and Graduate Jeweler diploma programs. Here are some best practices you can use when working with melee:

Melee of different sizes (even by 0.20 millimeters (mm)) may be noticeable to a customer. Selecting similar-size diamonds is important if uniformity is part of the design.
All prong tips should be in solid contact with the gem’s crown so there are no gaps between the prong and the stone. Prong tips that are not flush can snag on clothes, scratch skin and break.
For pavé or bead and bright setting, use at least a 0.50 mm border to ensure structural integrity.
For channel-set stones, build 1.00 mm walls on either side of the stones. Then bearings can be cut into the channel walls, so that approximately 10% of the diamond is in contact with the setting.
Gold, silver and platinum have different properties. Be sure to account for the unique metallurgical properties of the metal you are using when setting melee.

GIA Quality Assurance Benchmarks highlight workmanship of semi-finished and finished jewelry. Learn how to evaluate the quality of a bead-set diamonds in the shank of a platinum ring. GIA.edu/QAB
GIA QAB™, which were developed with support and feedback from the jewelry industry, provide an objective method for evaluating the quality of semi- or fully-finished jewelry by comparing it against acknowledged criteria, and show how to set melee properly.

Challenges aside, setting melee can be very lucrative, and comes with relatively low liability for potential loss due to breakage. For professionals in other parts of the trade, melee has an importance far greater than its size. So knowing about it is essential. Source: GIA @topic:4


Title: Sri Lanka: From Mine to Market, Part 1 Abstract: Sri Lanka’s gemstone and jewelry industry blends traditional practices and experience with the needs of the modern global market. Photo by Andrew Lucas/GIA.

                      To visit Sri Lanka is to experience one of the great gem sources and trading centers in the world. This country has a rich, almost unparalleled tradition and remains vitally important to the modern gemstone market. Sri Lanka has a true mine-to-market industry, both domestically and for export. Its evolution over the last two decades blends the best of traditional practices with modern technologies and business models.

In this field report, we take you on an expedition to this magnificent island and its remarkable mine-to-market industry.

Sri Lanka has produced a wide variety of gemstones, including cat’s-eye chrysoberyl. Photo by Andrew Lucas/GIA.

	An Amazing Island
Traveling in Sri Lanka, you realize it is a large island with very diverse environments. Most of the terrain consists of flat or rolling hills, but there are beautiful mountains in the southern central interior. Agriculture is a constant presence as you drive around the country, with intense green rice fields and rubber tree plantations.

In Elahera’s rice fields, there are treehouses for agricultural workers to climb into when a herd of wild elephants passes through. In Ratnapura, Elahera, and Balangoda, green rice fields also enclose small pit-mining operations, sometimes covered with V-shaped roofs for a little protection from rain and sun. Gaining elevation, you encounter beautiful tea plantations where it is common to see workers picking tea leaves by hand. Driving along the coast offers views of Sri Lanka’s beautiful coastline and fishing industry.

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	Island Images
Sri Lanka has two monsoon seasons that occur at different times of the year depending on the part of the country. The northeast has monsoons from December through March. In the southwest, where most of the mining takes place, the monsoon season lasts from June to October. As in many places throughout the world, weather patterns in recent years have not been as predictable as they were in the past. We encountered mostly good weather, but intermittent rainstorms occurred regularly, interrupting mining operations.

	History, Culture, and People
It is believed that Sri Lanka has been inhabited by humans for more than 300,000 years. The main ethnic group is the Sinhalese, representing about 73 percent of the population. They arrived from India in about the late sixth century BC. Buddhism came to Sri Lanka around the third century BC, and today it is the main religion of the Sinhalese people and the island. The Tamil people, from the Tamil area of India, are primarily Hindu. There is also an important Muslim and Christian population, leading to a rich diversity that is reflected in domestic jewelry design preferences, especially for weddings.

Sri Lanka's rich cultural heritage has become a major tourist attraction as visitors seek to learn more about this island and its people, which in turn has stimulated the economy. One of the cultural heritage sights we visited as we traveled to gem mining areas was Sigiriya, a UNESCO World Heritage site.

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	Sigiriya Images

	Experiencing Sigirya

	Tradition, Experience, and Modernization: The Best of All Worlds
In documenting Sri Lanka’s entire mine-to-market industry, one of the most fascinating aspects is the harmonious and productive blend of tradition, experience, and modernization. This was apparent in the mining, trading, cutting, treatment, jewelry manufacturing, and retail sectors. Mining is done primarily by traditional methods, and it is small-scale by choice and design. Cutting is a fascinating blend of hand-powered techniques, utilizing some of the world’s greatest expertise in orientation of rough, and a growing precision cutting and recutting industry that maintains the strictest tolerances.

	Cutting in Sri Lanka often relies on decades of experience rather than sophisticated or automated techniques. Photo by Andrew Lucas/GIA.
The trading sector combines knowledge and experience acquired over decades, if not centuries, with modern global business models. Just as mastering sapphire heat treatment helped the Thais become dominant players in the global corundum market, the Sri Lankans have great expertise in getting the best yield and color out of sapphire.

Jewelry design and manufacturing is directly tied to the domestic retail market as well as the market for Sri Lankans living abroad. Traditional 22K gold jewelry is in high demand for weddings as well as for investments and as a financial asset to pawn in times of need. At the same time, the market has adjusted to a younger generation with more varied tastes, while aiming to increase tourist purchases and broaden export markets.

	Pits, Mud, Gravel, and Gemstones
Gemstone mining in Sri Lanka is mostly from secondary deposits. The gravels yield sapphire, ruby, cat’s-eye and other chrysoberyls, spinel, garnet, beryl, tourmaline, topaz, quartz, and many other gemstones. Sri Lanka’s gem-bearing gravels, called illam, are some of the richest in the world. The island was blessed with geological conditions that provide an ideal blend of chemistry, heat, pressure, time for gem crystals to grow, and weathering for the gem crystals to be deposited and concentrated in gravels.

Gemstone deposits in Sri Lanka contain gem-bearing gravels called illam. Photo by Andrew Lucas/GIA.
Besides the well-known Pangaea, which existed about 300 million years ago, there were several other supercontinents in Earth’s early history. Their assembly and breakup cycles helped form most of the world’s gem deposits. Some of these cycles are directly related to gem formation in Sri Lanka.

Assembly of the Gondwana supercontinent was a slow process that took place over millions of years, between 550 and 950 million years ago (Ma), when global forces led to large-scale structural changes in the earth’s crust and upper mantle. The resulting collisions formed the Mozambique Belt, which extends from Mozambique to Ethiopia and Sudan, and also covers most of Madagascar, the southern tip of India, Sri Lanka, and the east coast of Antarctica. Sri Lanka occupied a critical area of Gondwana, and many of its gemstones are believed to have formed between 539 and 608 Ma, a time of peak metamorphism for the area.

Most of the gem deposits are in an area called the Highland Complex, extending northeast to southwest and containing high-grade metamorphic rocks. One major primary sapphire deposit was discovered by accident in 2012 near Kataragama, but it was not producing at the time of our visit, and subsequent mining of the area has produced no commercial yields. A full geological study of the deposit has not been performed, however, so the true potential of this area remains unknown.

	The Highland Complex of Sri Lanka is the most important area for formation of
	gemstone deposits. Illustration by Peter Johnston, © GIA.

Sri Lanka’s commercially important colored gemstone deposits come from weathered alluvial gravels. We visited the mining areas around Ratnapura, Balangoda, and Elahera. Although these make up only a small percentage of the island’s gem deposits, they gave us a representative overview of mining operations throughout the country. All of these were secondary gravel deposits. We did not find any active primary deposits at the time of our visit.

The mining operations we visited represented all three types of Sri Lankan gemstone mining: pit, mechanized, and, in this case, river. Photo by Andrew Lucas/GIA.

	Mining
Mining licenses in Sri Lanka are regulated by the National Gem and Jewellery Authority (NGJA). Of the more than 6,500 licenses issued in 2013, more than 6,000 were for pit-mining operations using traditional methods. The remainder went to river and mechanized mining. Licensing for mechanized mining follows very strict guidelines, and only about ten were issued in 2013.

	Most of the gemstone mining in Sri Lanka done by hand in open pits. At this larger pit,
	miners toss up the gravel in baskets. Photo by Andrew Lucas/GIA.
Many of the trade and regulatory bodies in Sri Lanka are against large-scale gemstone mining. They consider traditional small-scale mines less harmful to the environment and a more stable source of employment for more people.

To give an idea of scale, the standard pit mine in Sri Lanka consists of a vertical shaft that measures two by four meters. If the pits are deep and in harder ground, the miners might dig a two by two meter square pit or a two-meter round pit. Depth can range up to 50 meters, though most pits are between 5 and 25 meters.

	Most pit-mining operations in Sri Lanka are relatively small vertical shafts. Mining relies
	on muscle power, not mechanization. Photo by Andrew Lucas/GIA.
Many of the licensees have four to five traditional mining pits on their property. It’s estimated that more than two million pits have been dug over the last 50 years. Compared to gem mining in many African countries, there are hardly any unfilled, abandoned pits. This is partly because the National Gem and Jewellery Authority (NGJA) collects a cash deposit when a license is issued. If the mine owner does not rehabilitate the land after mining is complete, the NGJA uses the deposit money for that purpose.

There are usually several people involved in the venture, including the landowner, the holder of the mining rights, the person who supplies the water pump to remove water from the pit, and the miners. They all receive a share of the proceeds from the sale of the gemstones.

Although not as prominent, river mining is another traditional form of gem mining in Sri Lanka. Rivers in gem-producing areas can contain alluvial deposits where the river bends or otherwise slows down. The river miners pick these slow-moving areas in relatively shallow waters and build a dam of wood or rock where the water slows, allowing it to escape from one side while trapping the gravels.

Mechanized gem mining is very limited in Sri Lanka. Photo by Andrew Lucas/GIA.
Using metal blades attached perpendicularly to long wooden poles called mammoties, the miners scoop up the gravel and remove the overburden until they reach the illam. Then they use long pointed steel rods to loosen the illam and drag it up, allowing the rushing water to wash the gem-bearing gravel. They remove any visible gemstones, and the remaining gravel can undergo further washing.

Mechanized mining occurs when it’s determined that traditional methods won’t apply to the deposit at hand, if the concentration of gems is too low for pit mining, or if the threat of illegal mining activity requires quick mining of the deposit. There are a limited number of mechanized operations, and the requirements are stringent.

	Cutting
It is easy to overlook the importance of traditional cutting in Sri Lanka, which is often associated with bulky cuts. These traditional cutters use simple hand-powered cutting machines to produce some of the best-oriented stones in the world. Their ability to orient a stone for the best face-up color or placement of a star or cat’s-eye, while retaining maximum weight from the rough, is remarkable.

	Their equipment appears primitive, but the skill level of Sri Lanka’s traditional cutters is unsurpassed among traditional cutters. They have a wealth of experience in orienting a rough stone to obtain the best face-up color. Photo by Andrew Lucas/GIA.

	Expert Cutting in Colombo

Traditional cutting may in fact be the best technique for some high-end sapphires or stones where the placement of color is critical. There is also a growing demand for Sri Lankan recutting to meet customer specifications. Global clients have different proportion expectations—some allow windows, for instance—and recutting stones that have already been oriented for best color can make them less bulky. The cutters can remove enough windowing to suit a customer’s needs while retaining as much weight as possible. There is also a growing precision-cutting industry in Sri Lanka that meets the strictest tolerances of proportion, symmetry, and calibrated size tolerances.

	Precision Cutting

	Interviewing a Master Cutter

	Trading
Surpassed by Thailand in the 1970s and ’80s, Sri Lanka has modified its business strategy and import/export regulations to restore its position as a major global power in colored gemstone trading. By simplifying the import process and removing prohibitive duties, Sri Lankan dealers are now able to buy rough sapphire from anywhere in the world, including major sources such as Madagascar. They can apply their knowledge and be competitive in obtaining the raw materials to fuel their industry. Abandoning protectionist import regulations on rough from foreign sources has actually saved Sri Lanka's gemstone industry from remaining a smaller player. A smoother export process has also attracted foreign buyers to the country.

Foreign buyers often work with trusted local contacts who bring in a wide variety of inventory from other dealers to their offices. Photo by Andrew Lucas/GIA, courtesy Sapphire Capital Group-Sapphire Cutters.
We visited Sri Lankan dealers in Colombo and Beruwala, as well as mine markets in Ratnapura, Balangoda, and Elahera. The mine markets were bustling with activity among Sri Lankan dealers and foreign buyers. The dealers were often in the outdoor street markets and in offices or cutting facilities. There were also heat treaters, known as burners, at all of the major markets. Many of the foreign buyers sought the guidance of a trusted local dealer who would have other dealers bring in goods for sale. These trusted dealers would also be consulted for quality, price, and the potential for recutting and further heating.

Beruwala has a large, bustling street market for gemstones. Photo by Andrew Lucas/GIA.
New consumer markets such as China have revitalized gem trading in Sri Lanka. This has led to increased imports from global sources, while fueling the need for Sri Lankan dealers’ expertise and experience to satisfy the demands of Chinese manufacturing and domestic consumption.

	Inside the Sri Lankan Gem Trade

	Coming Next
In Part Two, we will reveal aspects of the Sri Lankan gemstone and jewelry industry that have seldom been covered, especially by outsiders. The country’s jewelry manufacturing and retail industries are very dynamic, blending strong traditions with important innovations. These sectors of the Sri Lankan industry are very different from their counterparts in other parts of the world such as the United States, Europe, Japan, and China. We will show you the sites we visited so you can get a better sense of this famous and exotic trade center. Source: GIA @topic:7


Title: How One Word Inspired Top Designers Abstract: Big Bite – Mark Schneider

                      Ice, that’s the word the American Jewelry Design Council (AJDC) gave to its members. Their challenge was to make jewelry that evoked it, which you see here.

No rules. No direction. No boundaries.

The AJDC, a non-profit that promotes the application of jewelry design as art, comes up with a new theme every year. Past years have included “wave,” “puzzle,” and “tear.” Invitation-only members like Alan Revere, Alishan Halebian, Todd Reed, Mark Schneider, and Katey Brunini, rush back to their studios and make museum-worthy objects that express it.

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“Variations on a Theme: 25 Years Of Design from the AJDC” is a traveling exhibition of more than 150 jewelry pieces chosen from previous years and previous themes. It is a celebration of creativity – a dramatic, thought-provoking, and entertaining display that inspires you to consider, “What type of jewelry would you make if given one word, like ‘ice’?”

“Variations of a Theme: 25 Years of Design from the AJDC” comes to GIA’s museum in Carlsbad from the end of July 2015 to early June 2016. Source: GIA @topic:6


Title: Sri Lanka: From Mine to Market, Part 2 Abstract: Traditional Manufacturing22K Gold Jewelry

As with gemstone cutting, jewelry manufacturing methods in Sri Lanka range from traditional to modern. We visited small workshops that were mainly involved in hand fabrication of 22K gold jewelry. Jewelers sat on the floor and created pieces by hand sawing, bending with pliers, soldering with handheld gas torches or even blowpipes, and hammering. Often they worked shirtless due to the daytime heat combined with the heat from the torches.

	Modern Factory

This was in contrast to the modern factories we visited, where jewelers worked at modern benches with a greater variety of hand tools and also used wax carving, mold making, and casting. Their designs were created with CAD/CAM. The mass-production capacity and consistent weight of these pieces gives the modern factories an advantage in keeping costs down for the popular 22K gold jewelry market. They also had greater capacity to produce other karat-gold alloys, as well as white gold and platinum, and to create more contemporary designs.

	Retail
A good portion of the Sri Lankan retail market is tied to 22K gold jewelry for weddings and special occasions, investment, and the pawn industry. It's the traditional choice for brides, and virtually no wedding in Sri Lanka happens without it. Heavier jewelry pieces are preferred because most of their value lies in the gold commodity value, which can be regained when the jewelry is sold or, more likely, pawned.

Another important aspect of the Sri Lankan retail industry is the use of 22K gold jewelry as an investment. The pawn business is tied directly to the jewelry industry. Sri Lankans place a percentage of their personal wealth in 22K gold jewelry, to be pawned in times of cash shortage. They have traditionally used crystal and cubic zirconia to add sparkle and color to their jewelry, since nearly all of the loan value comes from the intrinsic value of the gold. Even major banks there have substantial portions of their portfolios invested in the pawning of gold jewelry.

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	Sri Lankan Jewelry
While the 22K gold jewelry industry remains very strong, new generations of consumers are expanding their tastes and purchases. They are looking for lighter pieces and less-traditional designs and buying more for fashion than investment or religious purposes. They are also buying jewelry made with different types of karat gold, including white gold. Younger and wealthier, well-traveled consumers are showing more interest in diamonds and natural colored stones. Colored stone jewelry based on astrology can also have a strong appeal.

	Inside the Retail Industry

	Colombo
After an early-morning arrival in Colombo, we visited the offices of Sapphire Capital Group, where we saw Sri Lankan dealers acting as agents and consultants for a foreign buyer. Numerous local dealers brought in their stones and offered them for sale. Sapphire Capital Group guarantees the material to be as represented.

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	Cutting Experience and Skill in Colombo
We also documented two experts cutting and polishing blue sapphire, purple star sapphire, and cat’s-eye chrysoberyl. Some recutting was done to improve proportions, symmetry, and polish, to close windows and improve color, and to improve phenomena such as stars and cat’s-eyes.

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	Precision Lapidaries
The next day, we visited Precision Lapidaries of Colombo and interviewed managing director Faiq Rehan. There we witnessed precision calibrating, following very high standards for proportions, calibration tolerance, symmetry, and polish. Mr. Rehan explained his philosophy of putting quality and customer service first, with precise inventory and grading documents.

“I do not have inventory that sits around," Mr. Rehan said. "My inventory is not like the standard commercial material on the market, and it goes quickly to a growing niche market.”

	Sea Street Retail

After touring the surrounding mining areas, we returned to Colombo to document 22K gold jewelry manufacturing at Sujitha Traditional Jewellery Workshop on Sea Street. We also visited leading retailers Wellawatta Nithyakalyani Jewellery and Devi Jewellers, where we interviewed each company's director. We also interviewed other industry leaders and visited Wellawatta Nithyakalyani’s modern jewelry manufacturing facility. At the Wellawatta retail store, we were able to photograph a Sri Lankan model wearing jewelry in a variety of traditional and modern styles.

	Retail Leader Interview

	Beruwala
The gem trading area of Beruwala is also known as China Fort, named after Chinese traders who settled there about 300 years ago. We visited the morning gem market, which actually lasted through mid-afternoon. The market was very busy, with dealers crowding the street over a two-block area. We were told that up to 5,000 dealers might be in the street and offices at any one time. This open market is not associated with any particular mining area but has material from the various mining areas of Sri Lanka.

Beruwala’s street market was full of trading activity. Photo by Andrew Lucas/GIA.
Most of the trade we witnessed was between Sri Lankan dealers, but there were also some foreign buyers. Dealing took place in the street as well as in the offices. Many foreign buyers utilized Sri Lankan dealers as their local contacts, advisors, and negotiators. While observing the dealing, we also visited traditional cutters, a heat-treatment facility, and a local gemological laboratory.

This traditional cutter, just off the busy street market in Beruwala, shared an enormous amount of knowledge with us about orienting sapphire rough. Photo by Andrew Lucas/GIA.

	Ratnapura

Many of the gems for sale in the Ratnapura open-air gem market were sapphires from nearby mining operations. Photo by Andrew Lucas/GIA.
At Ratnapura, which is Sinhalese for “city of gems,” the street market was crowded like the Beruwala market but covered a wider area. The streets were often crowded with dealers. There were also numerous offices, traditional cutting shops and burners. Again, most of the transactions involved Sri Lankan dealers selling to each other, but there were also foreign dealers buying, many with local dealers advising them. As in Beruwala, material found in the street market would often be brought to a dealer in an office. Most of the goods being offered were rough sapphires, but we also saw cut sapphires and a wide variety of rough and cut colored gemstones, including cat’s-eye chrysoberyl and alexandrite.

	The City of Gems

After leaving town, it was easy to find small-scale traditional pit-mining operations in the area around Ratnapura. All of the mines we visited were pit-mining operations that used traditional methods of digging the gravels and tossing up the buckets or hoisting them with a hand-powered winch.

	Ratnapura Mines

	Balangoda
Balangoda was especially valuable for documenting the Sri Lankan mining industry. In one day, we were able to visit traditional pit mines, mechanized mines, and river mines and interview experts involved with each process. We also had the opportunity to see a couple of processing operations that used sluices based on Australian designs.

Mechanized mining is rare in Sri Lanka, but at Balangoda our contacts were able to take us to three sites. Photo by Andrew Lucas/GIA.
At Balangoda, we  saw how water both helps and hinders mining operations. At one of the mechanized open-pit operations, the water supply had become so saturated with mud that it could not be used to wash the gravel in the sluice. The miners were using backhoes to remove the mud while the gravel was transported to another washing area. At another relatively large mechanized operation, the open pit had partially filled with rainwater that had to be pumped out before mining could continue.

We also visited a pit mine that used only manual labor, located right next to a mechanized operation. Both were in full production. Later, we went to a traditional pit-mining operation where the rainwater had just been pumped out and they were starting to remove the illam. At one of the mechanized open-pit operations, they also washed the overburden, as both the overburden and the illam were fairly rich in gemstones.

	Mining in Balangoda

The highlight of the Balangoda mining area was a visit to a river mining operation right next to a picturesque tea plantation. Seven miners worked the deposit. They had chosen an area where the water slowed and built a dam to help trap the gravels. They scooped out the overburden gravel until they reached the illam, which they loosened with long pointed steel rods. They dragged up the gem-bearing gravel so it could be washed by the rushing water and removed any visible gemstones. The remaining gravel was set aside for possible further washing. Besides sapphires and other gemstones, these miners were also finding gold.

At Balangoda, we were able to document all forms of traditional and modern mechanized mining conducted in Sri Lanka: digging in open pits and traditional pit shafts, the use of excavators and trucks to remove overburden and gem gravels in open-pit mechanized mines, mechanical sluices, hand-washing gravel and traditional river mining.

Most of Balangoda’s mines were muddy pits worked by hand. Photo by Andrew Lucas/GIA.

	Elahera
The last famous Sri Lankan mining area we visited was Elahera, where we saw mechanized and traditional pit mining. One of these mechanized operations also had a problem with the water supply becoming too muddy for their sluice, so they were trucking gravel to another washing area. There we watched gem gravels being washed and the sluice being opened up to examine the yield.

The next stop in Elahera was an open-pit operation using traditional mining methods. A worker at the bottom of the pit removed overburden and gravel with a scraper and placed it in a basket held by another miner. With almost perfect coordination, the basket filled with mud and gravel was tossed up to a chain of three miners, each one a bit higher up, until the basket was emptied and placed in a pile at the top of the pit. As the mud- and gravel-filled basket was tossed to the top, an empty basket was thrown back to the bottom of the pit in what looked like a professional juggling act.

	Elahera Mining

One of the surprising aspects of Sri Lanka is that you come across traditional pit mines just driving down the roads. The mine where we witnessed the acrobatic tossing of baskets was alongside a paved road, as was another shallow pit operation we found by accident right in front of a home and farm. At this shallow pit operation, the overburden was removed quickly and they were just starting to reach the illam and dig horizontally from the pit to remove the gem-bearing gravels. This was a traditional mining operation: All the work was done with hand tools and the gravel was removed in baskets on the miners’ shoulders.

At this open-pit mine in Elahera, mud was constantly being scooped up, placed in baskets, and tossed up the pit. Photo by Andrew Lucas/GIA.

	Summary
After extensive observations and interviews covering all sectors of the Sri Lankan gem and jewelry industry, we were able to obtain a clear picture of this dynamic market. While Sri Lanka struggled to regain its status in the global market from the 1970s through the 1990s, the last decade has been very encouraging. With more trade-friendly policies, they have become competitive in the global market for rough sapphire and other colored gemstones from around the world. Domestic mining activity has increased with renewed interest and higher prices sparked by China and other new markets.

The Sri Lankan industry combines traditional cutting experience with modern skills to suit all market sectors, and its trading models incorporate decades of relationships and experience into strategies for today's markets. Jewelry manufacturing, though focused primarily on 22K gold jewelry for the domestic market, is moving to different styles to suit new consumers. The Sri Lankan retail industry hopes to continue the traditionally strong 22K gold jewelry business for weddings, special occasions, and investment as it cultivates the newer generations’ taste for gemstone, karat gold, and platinum jewelry, as well as diamond and colored gemstone jewelry. All in all, this is an industry that honors tradition while also showing strong potential for future growth.

Left to right: Andrew Lucas, Shamil Sammoon, and Pedro Padua, shown in Ratnapura, visited mining areas during an enlightening and unforgettable trip. Shamil tirelessly escorted the team to mining areas and around this incredible island, sharing his expertise and decades of family experience.

	More to Come
These field reports will be followed by a more in-depth Gems & Gemology article with further reporting on our findings from the Sri Lanka expedition. We will also continue working closely with the Sri Lankan industry to provide updates on this dynamic industry and its importance to the global markets. Source: GIA @topic:10


Title: Top 20 Traits to be Successful in Retail Abstract: Susan Jacques, president and CEO of Borsheims Fine Jewelry and Gifts and a member of GIA’s Board of Governors, offered these traits for success during a panel discussion at a GIA mini Jewelry Career Fair:

PASSION: Warren Buffett says: “Tap dance to work.” Love what you do every day! Have it show.

LOYALTY: Remember who signs your pay check -- be loyal to your company. If you are unhappy and your job is not what you want to do, leave and find your passion elsewhere.

RESPECT: Know everyone in the company by name; show the same respect regardless of titles and treat people as you wish to be treated.

COMMITMENT: To your company, your job, your teammates, your success.

DEDICATION: Give 110 percent every day to ensure your and your company’s success.

HONESTY: Be a person of your word, always be honest and ethical in everything you do.

INTEGRITY: Have the highest standards of integrity, personally and professionally. Earn your stellar reputation and guard it with every action that you take and decision that you make.

TRUSTWORTHINESS: Trust is essential in our industry and in your company. Be known for your trustworthiness.

TEAM PLAYER: Work well with others, be supportive and helpful. There is no I in TEAM! No prima donnas!

INITIATIVE: Don’t wait to be asked, take initiative, see the global picture.

CONFIDENTIALITY: NEVER breach confidentiality, what happens at X or with X stays there or between you.

DRIVE: Have the personal drive to succeed, do your best, set high goals and strive to exceed them.

EXCELLENCE: Always strive to exceed expectations and excel at what you do.

ATTITUDE: Keep a positive, optimistic, friendly, professional attitude EVERY day.

DETERMINATION: Be determined to succeed and be the best you can be and give every task your best effort.

FOCUSED: Focus on your goals and your ability to exceed customer expectations with every transaction.

MULTI-TASK: Learn to do many things simultaneously and excellently. Retail seldom allows you the
ability to finish one thing before moving on to the next. Be flexible.

EMPATHY: Be empathetic to fellow associates and customers. LISTEN to what they say.

CONFIDENCE: Exude self-confidence and believe in yourself and your ability to succeed.

KNOWLEDGE: Constantly learn and share your knowledge. It’s important to stay up to date on industry news, changes in treatments, product knowledge, social responsibility and sustainability. Stay in touch with GIA and continue to grow through learning! Source: GIA @topic:9


Title: Spring 2005 G&G Book Reviews Abstract: “Understanding Jewellery, 3rd Edition”
By David Bennett and Daniela Mascetti, 426 pp., illus., publ. by Antique Collector’s Club, Wood- bridge, England, 2003. US$89.50

“Collecting Fluorescent Minerals”
By Stuart Schneider, 192 pp., illus., publ. by Schiffer Publishing Ltd., Atglen, PA, 2004. US$29.95

“50-Year History of the Tucson Show”
By Bob Jones, 183 pp., illus., publ. by The Mineralogical Record, Tucson, AZ, 2004, US$20.00

“The Grandmasters of Mineral Photography”
136 pp., illus., publ. by Mineralogical Almanac, Moscow, 2004, US$45.00

“Tone Vigeland: Jewellery + Sculpture Movements in Silver”
By Cecilie Malm Brundtland, 182 pp., illus., publ. by Arnoldsche Art Publishers, Stuttgart, 2004 [in German and English], US$75.00

“The Tourmaline: A Monograph”
By Friedrich Benesch and Bernard Wöhrmann, 234 pp., illus., publ. by Verlag Urachhaus, Stuttgart, Germany, 2003, US$150.00

To view the full section, download the PDF above. Source: GIA @topic:10


Title: Spring 1989 G&G Book Reviews Abstract: “Jewelry of the 1940s and 1950s”
By Sylvie Raulet, 332 pp., illus., publ. by Rizzoli International Publications, New York, 1988. US$100.00

“Color Encyclopedia of Gemstones, 2nd Edition”
By Joel E. Arem, 280 pp., illus., publ. by Van Nostrand Reinhold Co., New York, 1987. US$53.95

“Antique and Twentieth Century Jewellery, a Guide for Collectors, 2nd Edition”
By Vivienne Becker, 319 pp., illus., publ. by N.A.G. Press Ltd., Colchester, Essex, Great Britain, 1987. US$45.00

“Jewelry & Gems: The Buying Guide”
By Antoinette L. Matlins and Antonio C. Bonanno, 206 pp., illus., publ. by Gemstone Press,
South Woodstock, VT, 1987. US$14.95

“Mineral Museums of Europe”
By Ulrich Burchard and Rainer Bode, 269 pp., illus., publ. by Walnut Hill Publishing Co., 1986.
US$49.50

“Descriptions of Gem Materials, 3rd Edition”
By Glenn and Martha Vargas, 180 pp., illus., publ. by Glenn and Martha Vargas, Thermal, CA, 1985. US$15.00

“The Jade Kingdom”
By Paul E. Desautels, 118 pp., illus., publ. by Van Nostrand Reinhold Co., New York, 1986. US$37.95

To view the full section, download the PDF above. Source: GIA @topic:10


Title: Silver Sizzles Abstract: Cuff bracelets image courtesy of Kara Ross.

                      Sales of silver are sizzling. Some 91% of the jewelry retailers said sales of silver jewelry increased from 2011 to 2012, according to the National Jeweler/Nielsen silver survey. The average increase was 19%.

One reason sales are rising is that the metal is catching the eyes of men, according to the November 2012 issue of JCK. They have a growing appetite for silver cuff links, money clips, and dog tags. It’s also more affordable than gold and platinum, which also appeals to consumers.

But it’s not just trendiness and affordability that’s driving silver’s popularity. As one of the three Noble Metals (gold and platinum being the other two) silver has prestige. It’s also the whitest and brightest of all metals, giving it unmatched luster.

Metalsmiths like silver because it has excellent working characteristics: it’s pliable, readily bends into new shapes, and stays in that position. It’s also extremely strong and can withstand the knocks and bangs that come with frequent wear.

There’s also another side to silver’s renewed popularity. “Traditional and commemorative high-end gifts like baby rattles, teething rings, and picture frames are making a comeback. These items are typically made from silver, and this has created a renaissance for the metal,” says Mark Maxwell, manager of Jewelry Manufacturing Arts, GIA, Carlsbad.

The majority of silver is mined in Mexico, Peru, China, and Chile. In order to be called “silver” in the U.S., alloys must contain at least 92.5% pure silver. Copper is usually the other alloy.

Contemporary designers like David Yurman and Michael Good continue to experiment with the metal, creating new and edgy designs. So while silver has a storied provenance – it’s the stuff of Peruvian crowns and Edwardian tiaras – it’s still very much a modern metal.

	Cartier cufflinks courtesy of C. Danforth.
Tips on Silver

		Manufacturers are creating new silver alloys. Argentum, for example, does not oxidize.

		Let your customers know that silver has cachet. It was more valuable than platinum during the Victorian era, and it was the metal of choice for making tiaras for the aristocracy.

		Sterling silver is increasingly being used in jewelry. Manufacturers are setting diamonds and other stones in a variety of modern sterling silver alloys, and are offering a range of products that are more affordable. Lines of sterling jewelry with karat gold accents are doing well, especially because gold and platinum are at an all-time high. Source: GIA @topic:6


Title: Soul of Brazil Shines in Colorful Collection Abstract: View Gallery

The Institute’s first formal international jewelry collection highlights the spirit and soul of Brazilian jewelry.

	Long-known for its abundance of fine gemstones, Brazil is enjoying an emergence as a source of innovative jewelry design worldwide. GIA’s collection, which features pieces donated by Brazil’s top designers and manufacturers, was built with the support of the industry and the Brazilian Gems and Jewellery Trade Association, and showcases traditional and contemporary designs.

	Renowned Brazilian designer Ruth Grieco helped inspire the idea for the collection when she archived her contemporary, handmade tourmaline cross pendant and 18K gold necklace with GIA after it was mentioned in a book review in the Summer 2003 issue of Gems & Gemology.

	Other high-profile donors include:

		Cathrine Clarke, a well-known Brazilian jeweler: a multicolor gold and eroded watermelon tourmaline brooch/ring.

		Daniel André Sauer, director of Amsterdam Sauer and a longtime GIA supporter: his historical “Constellation” ring, the first South American-designed piece to win the De Beers Diamond International Award in 1966.

		Hans Stern, president of internationally recognized H. Stern Jewellers, Inc.: an Art Nouveau-Classical fusion style brooch, set with a 55-carat aquamarine and 38 diamonds in 18K white gold. The piece represents a classic Brazilian design characteristic of the 1960s.

	“GIA is among the few institutions focused on improving the high standards of the entire jewelry trade,” Sauer said. “The [Constellation] ring is an icon and a landmark for the Brazilian jewelry industry.”

	The 18K yellow gold "Constellation" ring won the De Beers Diamond International Awards in 1966. It features 28 round brilliant cut diamonds with total carat weight of 2.66 carats.  Photo by Don Mengason/GIA, gift of Amsterdam Sauer Source: GIA @topic:10


Title: Making the Cut: The Art and Science of Fantasy Carving Abstract: Waterfall Suite, a group of three aquamarine sculptures on onyx bases by Sherris Cottier Shank, won an AGTA Cutting Edge Award in 1994, in part because of its fluid appearance. Courtesy of Gemscapes. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA

Some gem cutters are “gem whisperers” who claim their rough “tells” them what it wants to become. For them, carving becomes a process of communication with the material, closely observing and taking note as the rough’s inner structure and features guide the design. Others take a mathematical approach to cutting the rough and achieve stunning, precision faceting.
No matter the method, these incredibly gifted artists create breathtaking jewels.
About the Science
Flat facets are the traditional two-dimensional facets we see in diamonds and colored gemstones. They are shaped by the adjoining facets and the angles at which they intersect. Concave facets, on the other hand, literally add another dimension to faceting. They not only possess length and width, but also depth. Their potential to create sculptural works of art is endless.

This 140 ct Brazilian amethyst is faceted by Victor Tuzlukov. Courtesy of Victor Tuzlukov. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA
Many people feel that concave facets increase the stone’s brilliance and scintillation, giving it more life and beauty. A wide reflection of bright light from a flat facet washes out color. A concave facet acts as an internal convex mirror to produce reflected rays from more directions within a gemstone. The light from above reflects to the overhead observer as a narrow bright line of light at the top of the curved surface, and each side of the line will be darker, setting up strong contrast.

Master gem cutter Alexander Kreis created a fantasy cut sunstone carving that makes dramatic use of the gem’s color zoning. Courtesy of KREIS Jewellery. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA
“Strong contrast makes a gemstone appear brighter and more appealing ... Scintillation is more dynamic when there is strong contrast between adjacent virtual facets,” according to Al Gilbertson, a research associate at GIA, in a 2013 Gems & Gemology article.
The internal reflections of light tend to hide inclusions and also eliminate windowing. Gems with light to medium tones show the greatest improvement in appearance. Dark stones may look darker. Multi-color ametrine, tourmaline and sunstone make especially attractive carvings and rutile inclusions in quartz add special interest.

This fantasy cut faceted colorless quartz is fashioned by Dalan Hargrave. Angular facets placed on the culet of the gem create a fascinating pattern when viewed through the gem’s table. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA, courtesy of Dalan Hargrave.
“This brilliance [from scintillation] can give the impression that the stone has a higher refractive index (RI), making quartz look like beryl, beryl like topaz, topaz like corundum, and corundum like zirconium,” according to Eddy Vleeschdrager in “Cutting Technique Flat, Concave, or Convex?” a 2002 article in Le Bijoutier International.
Craftsmen in the Idar-Oberstein area have produced stones with concave cut facets on the pavilion since the early 1900s. These stones became fashionable around 1920, and again in the 1950s and ‘60s.

This 18 ct ametrine is cut by Michael Dyber featuring Dyber optic dishes. Courtesy of Orasa Weldon. Photo by Emily Lane/GIA
About the Artists
Sherris Cottier-Shanks tells us the material talks to her. She senses its energy and gets a picture in her mind that she translates into the beauty of its new form. Using a simple carving arbor, she holds the gem by hand as it is being carved, resulting in curved form with a very soft, liquid appearance. She gained inspiration from Henry Hunt and indigenous Canadian Inuit art.

This 216 ct ametrine from Bolivia features the Dyber optic dish. Courtesy of Michael M. Dyber, gem designer. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA
Michael Dyber became the first American to ever win first prize in competitive gem design at the annual German Award for Jewelry and Precious Stones in Idar-Oberstein, 1994. He is known for his signature, trademarked “Dyber Optic Dishes” and “Luminaires.” Both techniques create optical illusions using a form of concave faceting. The “Luminaires” constitute a hollow channel form of faceting within the gem.

“Dreamscape” citrine is one of several trademark cuts by John Dyer. This is a unique matched pair of fantasy cuts. Courtesy of John Dyer & Co. Photo by Lydia Dyer
John Dyer began a meteoric gem cutting career in 1996 when his trial and error methods began to yield beautiful, sparkling gemstones. He won his first AGTA Cutting Edge Award in 2002 and in 2005 was the first person to sweep an entire category in the AGTA Cutting Edge Awards. He creates collections of trademarked cuts that live up to their names: “Dreamscape,” “Starbrite,” “Sunburst,” “Regal Radiant,” “Light Weaver” and “Sculptural.”

This 320 ct Bolivian ametrine was fashioned on specially designed faceting machinery built by the artist, Mark Gronlund. The sculpture makes excellent use of the unique color zoning seen in ametrine. Courtesy of Mark Gronlund. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA
Mark Gronlund, an award-winning cutter himself, met with Richard Homer early in his career, and became intrigued by the concave and convex facets created by the OMF (optically magnified facet) cutting machine. His fascination with curved lines led him to create a niche in non-traditional spiral and scallop cuts. He creates gemstone suites of bold colors and shapes for designer jewelry.

This fantasy cut ametrine, 67.50 ct is cut by Dalan Hargrave. Courtesy of Minerales y Metales del Oriente, Bolivia, SA. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA
Dalan Hargrave’s focus is in developing new gemstone cuts as works of art. He teaches classes in the lapidary arts as a way of passing on his knowledge to the next generation of artisans. He enjoys customizing specialized faceting equipment for his innovative styles.

This stunning pink tourmaline, 29.56 ct was cut by Richard Homer, a pioneer in concave faceting. Courtesy of Columbia Gem House, Inc. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA
Richard Homer is known for the exceptional brilliance of his cut gems. He masterfully curves the facets along the table, pavilion and girdle that return an explosion of light and color, and is often credited with designing the innovative “concave facet.” His dramatic designs sometimes employ new cutting techniques and curved outlines for which he custom tools specialized equipment.

This “Chanting of the Stars” rutilated quartz carving was created by Alexander Kreis of Idar-Oberstein. Courtesy of KREIS Jewellery. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA
Alexander Kreis, of KREIS Jewellery, hails from a long line of lapidaries based in Idar-Oberstein. He challenges himself to create gem sculptures that tell a story. He creates innovative techniques and tools when necessary for the design and concept.

Metamorphosis III is a sculpture in rock crystal quartz with rutile inclusions carved by Bernd Munsteiner, 1995. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA
Bernd Munsteiner is often credited with inventing the fantasy cut, which employs the art of sharp, angular cutting or faceting to reflect and refract light in transparent gems. He began his work in agate relief before moving on to transparent materials in the late 1960s and early ‘70s, removing large areas of the material for the sake of his art, defying the conventional practice of cutting to retain weight. The results are dynamic sculptural pieces that create movement of light comparable to animation. He is known for bold notches or slashes, producing a striking geometric form.

“Visions in Crystal” carved by Tom Munsteiner consists of 264 rock crystals, citrines, and smoky quartz, each weighing approximately 200 cts, free standing in a lattice structure consisting of similarly sized rectangles which are supported by two columns of aluminum with a height of 210 cm. The cut and polished crystals reflecting towards the front have almost the same color tone. The rock crystals are completely transparent, the citrines translucent yellow, only the smoky quartz progress from dark to light. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA
Tom Munsteiner carries on his father's legacy as a master of gem sculpture. His work reflects the influence of architectural elements in his designs, such as his “Visions in Crystal” sculpture, which stands at more than 6 feet tall and is comprised of 264 tiles of rock crystal quartz, citrine and smoky quartz each cut with various angular facets. He created the piece as an example of how gemstones can be seen as fine art.
Further Reading
Morgan, A. D. (October 2002) Development of concave faceting of gemstones, The Journal of Gemmology, October 2002.

Munsteiner, Bernd, Reflections in Stone, Wilhelm Lindemann, editor. 2004, Arnoldsche.

Oriel, Andy, (November 1997) Learning Curve, Lapidary Journal.

Weldon, Robert, (April 2005) Mathematical Brilliance, Professional Jeweler. Source: GIA @topic:7


Title: Hole Drilled by Hand in Briolette Abstract: Figure 1. The diamond paper that held the 6.19 ct briolette diamond. Photo by Nathan Renfro.

Recently, a 6.19 ct briolette diamond was submitted to GIA’s Antwerp laboratory for examination. It had been in the family of Belgian diamond cleaver and Auschwitz survivor Philip Isidoor Frank, who died in 1982. Mr. Frank is known for his work on many important diamonds, such as the 69.42 ct D-color Internally Flawless pear-shaped Taylor-Burton diamond. The diamond paper containing the briolette had a note, presumably written by Mr. Frank: “drilled by hand about 400 years ago” (figure 1). Sadly, this cannot be substantiated, and Mr. Frank left no other record. It raises the question as to whether this age is theoretically possible.

Figure 2. The facet arrangement of the 6.19 ct briolette. The horizontal drill hole is at the top. Photo by Jian Xin (Jae) Liao.
The diamond (figure 2) loosely fits the briolette definition since the hole is at the very tip rather than through the central portion. In reference to Mr. Frank’s note on the diamond paper, this description seems appropriate, even though the stone lacks the appealing teardrop shape we think of with modern briolettes. The style of faceting for this diamond is reminiscent of early cutting from India (1550–1900), but it could have been cut at any time (figure 3). By the 1700s, Europeans were already moving toward variations of brilliant styles with good symmetry, thin girdles, and specific ratios of crown and pavilion. They did not typically care for the quality of Indian diamond cutting, and many stones were recut.

Figure 3. Early Indian cutting styles (ca. 1550–1900) feature a very thick girdle area with multiple facets, similar to the briolette’s plane that wraps around the stone. From Ogden (2018), p. 320.
The briolette cutting style has a remarkably long history. Seventeenth-century French gem merchant Jean Baptiste Tavernier (1676, p. 336) sold four briolettes to the French king Louis XIV. The invoice described two stones as “round pendant with little facets” and “cut with facets on all sides” (Bapst, 1889, p. 404), respectively, and included illustrations. Two others, not illustrated, were “cut as round pendants with facets on all sides.” Tavernier’s drawings depict a briolette style, although that term was not used much before the nineteenth century.

However, Tavernier’s gems are not the earliest recorded briolettes. One had arrived in the royal court in England almost 20 years before his first voyage to India. On February 17, 1612, payment was arranged to the Flemish goldsmith Stephen le Gouche for a piece of jewelry with “one fair large pendant diamond, cut with fancies [facets] on all sides, and pierced at the top” that had been delivered to Queen Anne of Denmark (Green, 1858, p. 121), who was married to James VI and I (r. 1603–1625). The court accounts further describe the piercing at the top as lateral.

Noël-Antoine Pluche’s extensive multivolume work on natural history, Le Spectacle de la Nature, features an illustrated briolette described as a pear-shaped diamond cut in the “taille à l’Indienne” or Indian style (1748, pp. 349–352). The comments by Pluche, along with the Indian examples traded by Tavernier, point to the briolette form as being associated with India. Several later books specifically state this association and even mention lateral piercing. A French encyclopedia from 1859 (Guillaumin, pp. 980–981) explains that “In India, where the briolettes formerly came from, it was customary to pierce them with a very small hole in the upper part. Today a few lapidaries in Amsterdam cut briolettes very well, but they haven’t yet managed to pierce them.”

By 1600, Italian, German, Flemish, and Belgian cutters worked in India (Everaert, 2000, 2005), bringing along their techniques and cutting styles to higher-quality rough. These faceted stones would then be sent to Europe (Ogden, 2018, pp. 297–305). For example, the briolette shown in Tavernier’s book may have been cut by a European living in India rather than by a local Indian diamond cutter (there is no mention of a hole in the briolettes sold by Tavernier). Indian diamond cutters continued to follow their own styles, often cutting the lesser-quality rough destined for the Indian market. Short of documentation showing early briolettes with this specific facet arrangement by Indian cutters, dating the 6.19 ct briolette from Mr. Frank is impossible.

Figure 4. The drill hole at the tip of the stone. Note the unique surface, a remnant of the process of drawing a wire coated with diamond dust and oil back and forth. Photomicrograph by Nathan Renfro; field of view 4.02 mm.

The drill hole at the tip of this briolette (figure 4) is consistent with sawing techniques used to make holes in diamonds from the seventeenth century through the 1970s. By the mid-1500s, iron wires coated with diamond dust and oil were used to saw through a diamond. By the early 1600s, lapidaries rotated a diamond-tipped iron point or iron drill with diamond powder to create a hole from each side. Once these two holes met and the opening was large enough, the wire was inserted and drawn back and forth, the apparent method used for this diamond.

In 1811, Napoleon Bonaparte presented a 263 ct diamond briolette necklace to his empress consort, Marie Louise. It featured 19 oval- and pear-shaped briolette-cut diamonds (probably of Indian origin but faceted by European cutters in India) with drill holes. The facet arrangements of the stones in the necklace are more symmetrical and quite different from the 6.19 ct briolette.

It is unclear when laser drilling for larger holes began, but General Electric researchers used a laser to drill 0.02-inch-diameter holes into an industrial diamond in the early 1960s (Overton, 2008, p. 46). As early as 1970, GIA’s Robert Crowningshield reported that lasers were being used as part of a process to bleach or dissolve dark inclusions, and soon this treatment was widely available to members of the trade (Overton, 2008, p. 46). This means that sometime after the 1970s, lasers would have been employed for the process of drilling holes for beads and such. Older briolettes that came into GIA’s laboratory would still have holes drilled by hand, but by the 1980s, this hand drilling process was mostly abandoned. Has GIA seen a handmade drill hole in diamonds in the past, and if so, how many? Uncovering records of hand-drilled diamonds submitted to the laboratory is quite difficult since records prior to the 1990s are not computerized for searching and briolettes are rarely seen. Notations about the surface of the drill hole are also uncommon in reports. Our research into past submissions did not yield any useful results.

From the above, it is impossible to date this diamond, although it was probably cut before 1920 in India, possibly much earlier, but not by highly skilled cutters.

The briolette is heavily abraded. One possible reason is that it was kept in a diamond parcel rubbing against other diamonds for a long time, though this seems unlikely. Why would any diamond merchant allow a diamond in their stock to become so excessively abraded? It was more likely worn in an item of jewelry, repeatedly wearing against other diamonds and being casually stored by the owner, suggesting an extended period of use.

Of final note, there are several naturals on the surface of the briolette, including a trigon (figure 5).

Figure 5. The trigon is a remnant of the original crystal’s surface. Photomicrograph by Christopher Vendrell; field of view ~1.99 mm. Source: GIA @topic:4


Title: Season’s Sales: US Up 4% to 5%, But China Continues to Lag Abstract: U.S. diamond and jewelry sales increased for the 2018 holiday season, but sales in Hong Kong and China hit a decline because of fears of a trade war with the U.S. and the very volatile stock market. Photo Eric Welch/GIA

The U.S. holiday season saw strong sales all the way through to the New Year, despite stock market turmoil and the government shutdown. Increases were seen in both brick-and-mortar stores and e-commerce sites.

By all accounts, 2018 was a strong year. De Beers’ surveys showed an increase of 4.4% for the season in diamond jewelry sales over last year, and the National Retail Federation forecast overall retail sales growth of 4% to 5% over 2017.

In early November, Tiffany’s announced that same store sales were up 5% for the year in North America and 7% worldwide for the first three-quarters of the year. The company expected holiday sales to continue in line with this number. Signet Group, which operates Kay Jewelers, Zale Corp and Jared Stores, was predicting a flat holiday season as the company recovers from management turnover, difficulties with its credit operations and retooling from its shopping mall orientation.

Independents seemed to outperform large chains. The Centurion survey of luxury retail jewelers found that 34% of independent retailers experienced sales gains of 10% or more during the week before Christmas compared to 2017, while an additional 24% saw increases of between 6% and 10%. These increases were consistent with the full month between Black Friday and Christmas. Two-thirds of the jewelers surveyed reported that sales were up for the entire year compared to 2017, and slightly more than half of those had rung up increases over 10%.

While one-third of jewelers in the Centurion survey reported sales declines for the final week of the season, only 18% were down for the entire year.

One potentially worrisome trend: While the majority of sales were below $2,500, millennials accounted for only a fourth of their sales on average. Most jewelers surveyed, however, did only a small percentage of their sales online.

This dichotomy in retail sales – some retailers growing while others slow – will only widen, according to a report from McKinsey & Co. It cites the numerous store closings and the possible dissolution of the once too big to fail Sears. The obvious disruptor, of course, is online sales, but it is going deeper than that.

Beyond the obvious, that most retail sales growth will be online and that retailers must embrace “omnichannel” selling, there are a number of other, equally important trends going on. For example, millennials and Generation Z consumers are skeptical of large corporations and established brand names and are opting for newer, “fun” brands that appear to be transparent, approachable and socially responsible.

In addition, some e-commerce sites link consumers directly with manufacturers of luxury goods, while other apps can automate the online search and purchase process. In short, purchasing decisions will more and more be accomplished with help from artificial intelligence and automation.

Retail business in China has been hit by the trade war with the U.S. and the world stock market gyrations. Chow Tai Fook, which accounts for nearly 10% of jewelry sales in Hong Kong and China, reported its same store sales fell 7% on the mainland and 6% in Hong Kong and Macau during the final quarter of the calendar year. “Gem set” jewelry sales fell 5% and 8%, respectively.

November retail jewelry, watch and clock sales in all sales outlets fell 3.9% in Hong Kong, said the Hong Kong Trade Development Council.
DIAMONDS
De Beers will probably return to the market with a large Jan. 21-24 rough diamond allocation after a successful season.

Russia’s Alrosa announced it sold $4.41 billion worth of rough diamond in 2018, a 6% increase over 2017. Sales slowed, however, in final quarter of the year because of a glut of smaller diamonds in inventories and a continuing tightening of bank credit to diamond manufacturers. Alrosa has scheduled its January sales for Jan. 14-15.

The trade will be watching these sales because, while retail demand was good, there are still significant challenges within the middle of the diamond pipeline – continued oversupplies of small diamonds and an ongoing credit shortfall that has pushed a number of firms to the brink of bankruptcy.

Ronnie Vanderlinden, president of the International Diamond Manufacturers Association, said these problems will carry well into the new year.

“We just saw another bank close its Antwerp branch and other banks are continuing to raise collateral requirements,” he explained. “The problem is that banks raising collateral requirements or alternative financers who hold portions of inventory as collateral make it difficult for a company to do business. The goods are no longer theirs.”

One reason credit will not be getting any easier despite improved market conditions is that international banking regulations have not eased up. “There are a lot of regulations and the penalties for violating them are very high, so a lot of banking officials say ‘why bother?’” Vanderlinden said.
LAB-GROWN DIAMONDS
Production costs for a one carat lab-grown diamond have plunged from about $4,000 in 2008 to $300 to $500 today, according to a recent Financial Times report. This makes it possible for De Beers’ Lightbox one carat diamonds, priced at $800, to be made and sold at a significant profit.

The report also said that lab-grown diamonds comprise about 2% of the market (by volume), but this is expanding 15% to 20% yearly. It also noted that the average lab-grown/natural discount is about 43%, compared to 29% at the beginning of 2018.

De Beers’ CEO Bruce Cleaver noted in the report that margins for lab-grown diamonds have been unsustainably high. De Beers said it will spend about $100 million making and marketing Lightbox lab-grown diamonds over the next four years, compared to $10 billion of capital spending and marketing for natural diamonds.

Citing shortages in supply, the Diamond Foundry announced it was raising wholesale prices on its lab-grown diamonds by 15% in January. The company sells stones of less than one carat for $1,000 or less per carat, but larger lab-grown diamonds, which is calls certified-unique, are priced about half the cost of comparable natural stones.

Both De Beers and Diamond Foundry expect to have new production facilities open by year’s end to meet the growing demand. Source: GIA @topic:8


Title: Spring 2018 Auctions Off to Cautious Start Abstract: The mysterious 6.16 Fancy Dark gray-blue Farnese Blue diamond, graded by GIA, will be auctioned by Sotheby’s May 15 in Geneva. Mined at Golconda, the legendary source of the Hope Diamond, this jewel was given to Elisabeth Farnese upon her marriage to Phillippe V of Spain in 1714. Unlike other royal jewels, this diamond was kept in a small wooden box away from the public eye for more than two centuries until this sale. The French script on the silver plaque on the box reads: “Remarkable blue brilliant. This historical stone was offered by the Philippine Islands to Elisabeth Farnese, Queen of Spain, wife of Philippe V, great-grandfather of the Comte of Villafranca, current owner of that stone.” Photo courtesy of Sotheby's.

The record-breaking array of major fancy colored diamonds and large colorless diamonds are less evident this spring auction season, as buyers around the world turn more cautious.

While some impressive diamonds and colored gemstones are still being offered in the top venues – Hong Kong, New York and Geneva – the emphasis is on classic pieces from jewelry houses, such as Cartier, Boucheron, JAR and Van Cleef & Arpels, and smaller fancy colored diamonds.

The first major sale of the season, Sotheby’s April 3 Hong Kong auction, saw most of the top lots fail to sell. The highlight of the auction was the Circle of Heaven, a jade bangle estimated to sell for between $10.2 million and $12.8 million, failed to find a buyer. Prices for top jade have softened, but the wide publicity Sotheby’s provided for this piece indicated that the house jewelry department was confident it would achieve that price.

Also not sold: a 17.63 ct D Flawless diamond, estimated at $2.8 million, and a 14.18 ct Fancy blue diamond.

The 5.01 ct Fancy Vivid purplish pink diamond offered at the auction sold for $2.5 million, which was well below what similar diamonds have sold for in previous sales.

Christie’s April 17 New York auction featured a GIA-graded 8.42 ct Fancy Intense pink estimated at $4 to $6 million, which sold for $ 5 million, but the majority of top lots were signed period and modern pieces from the major jewelry houses. Another top lot was a ring by Paris designer JAR featuring a GIA-graded 22.79 ct D Flawless l “elongated oval” cut diamond estimated at $2.5 to $3.5 million, which went for $2.8 million. In addition, there were about 20% fewer lots in this sale than in previous spring New York auctions..

This 51.71 ct D Flawless Type IIa round diamond is expected to bring between $7 to $9 million at Sotheby’s May 15 auction in Geneva. The diamond is one of two 50-carat-plus diamonds of that grade offered at the sale. Both were graded by GIA. Photo courtesy of Sotheby's
Sotheby’s is betting that buyers will pay $7 to $9 million each for a pair of 50 ct-plus D Flawless Type IIa diamonds highlighting its May 15 Geneva sale. One diamond is a 51.71 ct round brilliant while the other is a 50.39 ct oval shape, according to GIA grading reports.

The house is also offering the historic GIA-graded 6.16 ct Fancy dark gray-blue diamond, known as the Farnese Blue. The royal diamond, originally from India’s famed Golconda region that produced the Hope Diamond, has a history almost as fascinating. The diamond was a gift to Queen Elisabeth Farnese of Spain by her husband King Philippe V in 1714. It was passed to the queen’s son, Philippe, Duke of Parma, and then through various Italian noble families and ultimately to the Habsburg family in Austria – all the while keeping its existence secret from anyone outside the immediate families. The diamond is expected to sell for $3.7 to $5.3 million.
DIAMONDS
De Beers announced that its April rough diamond cycle totaled $520 million in sales, which is about 12% lower from the same period last year and 8% down from the previous cycle.

The company did not announce a price increase, though some press reports indicated that prices were slightly higher in some categories. De Beers often adjusts prices slightly in the mix of goods offered to clients.

De Beers’ CEO Bruce Cleaver noted that the rough market is healthy and “focusing on restocking, following healthy consumer demand for diamond jewelry in the U.S. and China.”

Russia’s Alrosa, the world’s largest diamond producer by volume, reported that its March sales total was $559.5 million, which also includes polished diamonds from special tender auctions. The total was $18.4 million higher than February because of increased sales of large diamonds, according to Alrosa deputy CEO Yury Okoemov.

Russia’s first quarter diamond sales totaled $1.61 billion, $1.58 of which were rough diamonds, Okoemov noted. Source: GIA @topic:8


Title: Blue Nile Sale Surprises Analysts, Argyle Auctions ‘Best’ Colors Abstract: The Argyle Violet is a 2.83 carat polished oval shaped diamond, the largest violet diamond from Rio Tinto’s Argyle Diamond Mine. It is part of the Chroma Collection. Photo courtesy of Rio Tinto

	The deal that will see Blue Nile go to an investment group headed by Bain Capital Private Equity will likely mean big changes for the online diamond retailer. The company, whose double-digit growth had dazzled the U.S. retail jewelry industry in the previous decade, plateaued in recent years with sales hovering between $450 million and $480 million. Its net profits were about 2% of sales, running about $10 million yearly.

	The purchase price of $500 million paid by Bain and Bow Street LLC surprised some analysts. It was 30% over the share price and the small profit ratio, even with the company’s $109 million in assets, means it could take many years to recoup the investment without significant changes in the company’s business model.

	Engagement rings have been Blue Nile’s staple since its founding in 1999, representing between 60-75% of sales. In recent years, however, as the number of marriages in the U.S. stagnated, the company attempted to shift its focus to designer pieces and international sales. Its success in both areas has been limited. Neither Bain nor Bow Street indicated what changes may be in the offing, except to state they are “looking forward to working alongside Blue Nile management to execute the company’s strategy.”

	Blue Nile reported sales of $105.1 million for the third quarter of 2016, down nearly 5% from the comparable quarter last year. Net income was $1.3 million, or slightly over 1%. Diamond engagement ring sales declined 8.5% during the period to $59.5 million. International sales rose slightly in the quarter.

	The deal likely will close early next year. Bain Capital Private Equity is the venture capital arm of Bain Capital.

The Argyle Aria, a 1.09 ct oval shape Fancy red diamond, is part of the Chroma Collection. Photo courtesy of Rio Tinto

	ARGYLE FANCY COLOR SALE

	Rio Tinto is finding that deeper may be better as far as fancy colored diamonds from its Argyle Mine are concerned.

	This year’s offering of fancy colors comprised the highest size, color and clarity combination in the 32 years of auctioning such stones. All of the diamonds came from the new underground operation that began three years ago.

	The group, named the Chroma Collection, consists of 63 stones, weighing 58.24 carats total. It included 57 pinks, two violet and four red diamonds, all graded by GIA.

	The largest was the 2.83 carat (ct) Argyle Violet, the biggest violet diamond ever found at the mine. GIA graded the color Fancy Deep grayish bluish violet. The other violet diamond, the Argyle Ultra, was a 1.11 ct Fancy Dark gray-violet pear shape.

	Other highlights of the Chroma Collection include the Argyle Thea, a 2.24 ct Fancy Vivid purplish pink; the Argyle Viva, a 1.21 ct Fancy Vivid purple-pink; and the Argyle Aria, a 1.09 ct Fancy red.

	Rio Tinto said in a statement that this tender achieved record results, but it did not announce sale prices or the total realized for the collection. Source: GIA @topic:8


Title: Petra Unveils Super Blue; De Beers Holds Prices on Rough Abstract: Petra Diamonds CEO Johan Dippenaar holds the 122.52 carat blue diamond recovered in June 2014 from the historic Cullinan Mine in South Africa. Photo courtesy Petra Diamonds

	One of the largest blue diamonds ever found ‒ weighing in at 122.53 carats (cts.) ‒ was unveiled this week by Petra Diamonds, owner of the historic Cullinan Mine in South Africa, a 111-year-old mine that has produced some of the most famous diamonds in history.

	Petra said the stone would be sold after it has “analyzed the diamond to assess its potential value…and… its optimal route to market.”

	The Cullinan, opened in 1903, produced the largest diamond ever found, the 3,106 ct. Cullinan diamond, which was cut into the 550 ct. Cullinan I that remains the centerpiece of the British Crown jewels. The mine has produced more than 750 diamonds larger than 100 cts. and a number of renowned fancy colored diamonds, including the Heart of Eternity, a 27 ct. Fancy Vivid blue that was part of De Beers’ Millennial collection. Petra acquired the Cullinan Mine from De Beers in 2008.

ROUGH PRICES: De Beers held the line on prices at the June 10-13 sight, which totaled about $650 million. The sight was slightly larger than expected because rough demand has been rising, including for more goods that will polish out to lower quality stones. (See Las Vegas show report below).

	Dealers report that premiums for De Beers goods in the rough after-market was a healthy 5-8%, which is enough to make a profit, but did not reach the inflated, speculative levels of last year. Dealers believe this was a good sign that the banks’ tighter credit policies are finally curbing speculative rough buying.

	Alrosa, the marketing agency for Russia’s diamond production, raised prices of its rough diamonds 2-3% during its sale the same week. Reports from tender sales also indicate that buyers were purchasing rough for their manufacturing needs and not speculation, which has resulted in prices much closer to the market.

JCK, LAS VEGAS: Demand generally met expectations, but retailers were extremely cautious, buying only for immediate inventory needs and resisting price increases.

	Dealers say polished prices had been edging up this year, particularly during the run-up to the show, but retailers were in no mood to accept the increases – particularly after the statement from Blue Nile’s CEO that consumers have been declining to pay higher prices for diamonds.

	Diamond buyers for a number of mall jewelers were trying to maintain price points for middle class consumers and were down-trading into I1 and I2 clarities and “light” sizes (just under 0.50 ct. or 1 ct.) as diamond manufacturers try to pass rough price increases on to them. In China, which once had insisted on high clarity goods, demand is centered on SI goods in middle colors.

	“Demand is there,” said one dealer. “But the battles over prices are worse than they’ve ever been and a lot of deals are not being made – at least now.”

	Another reason why a number of deals did not get done at the show is that tightening bank credit policies are forcing some diamond and jewelry firms to drastically reduce the memo programs they run with large retailers. These deals usually involve consigning a certain percentage of the order with payments due as long as 90 days after Christmas, with an additional return allowance. Most jewelry manufacturers also operate similar memo programs for their large retail customers.

	Banks financing the diamond industry introduced a number of stringent rules this spring, including a substantial reduction in credit that supports such memo programs.

	Diamond people were reluctant to discuss this issue in detail, but the few who did, say they were forced to cancel or severely curtail some orders because the banks would not supply the funds. Dealers admitted it was a problem, but said they could adjust to it as long as retailers get the message as well.

	Colored gemstone demand at the American Gem Trade Association hall was spotty, with some of the larger firms reporting respectable business (mostly from repeat customers), while many other exhibitors found demand slow.

	One of the problems dealers face is the ever-increasing price of gemstones, especially higher quality material, which seems to climb regardless of demand.

	Sellers of Mozambique ruby were waiting for the first Gemfields auction of that material in June to gauge prices, which until now had varied widely from vendor to vendor. Gemfields acquired the rights to several large mining concessions within that ruby- producing area.

	“We suspect they will be much higher than (most dealers) are selling these goods for,” said one dealer with a large stock of them. “Everybody is waiting to see how things go.”

	Several dealers were displaying Yogo (Montana) sapphires for the first time in several years. The stones are generally small (under 1 ct.), but a significant percentage do not require heat or other treatments.

	Demand at the Couture and Luxury shows, which attracts retailers serving the higher end of the market, reported much stronger results, reflecting the uneven economic recovery. Demand for 3-carat-plus colorless diamonds and fancy colored diamonds was much stronger than last year.

	Designers featured multi-color pieces and Art Nouveau elements in their offerings. Source: GIA @topic:8


Title: Ekati + Diavik = A Revived CanadaMark Abstract: An aerial view of the Ekati diamond mine. Photo courtesy of Dominion Diamond Corp.

                      Sometime soon a celebrity may be posing for the paparazzi wearing suites of diamond jewelry hallmarked “Mined in Canada.” The merging of the two largest Canadian diamond mines has given the new owner, Dominion Diamond Corporation, the opportunity to relaunch and expand globally the CanadaMark, which was originally a brand commissioned by Rio Tinto for locally polished diamonds from its Diavik mine.

Dominion is no stranger to brands. The company owned a majority interest in Harry Winston, the jeweler synonymous with mega-diamonds, and carried its name for more than six years; it also owned a 40% stake in the Diavik mine. The company sold the Winston luxury stores and watch brand to Swatch Group of Switzerland for $750 million in 2013, changed its name to Dominion Diamond Corporation and acquired the Ekati mine from BHP Billiton later that year. The price was $553 million, leaving the company with nearly $200 million in surplus cash.

“We were always very keen to take over Ekati,” said James Pounds, president of Dominion Diamond. “The acquisition of Ekati provided the opportunity to revive a Canadian hallmark,” he added, noting that the combination of the two mines will produce sufficient quantities of “eligible” goods to sustain such a program.

James Pounds, president of Dominion Diamond Corp said the merger of the two largest Canadian mines offers an excellent opportunity to revive the CanadaMark brand. Photo by Russell Shor.
The CanadaMark will be used on polished diamonds with a cut grade of Very Good or above, L color or higher and I2 clarity or higher. The clarity range is lower because demand for I2 goods is growing, said Pounds. About 20% of both mines’ total production would polish out to such goods.
Dominion is just beginning a test marketing campaign for CanadaMark, but Pounds is confident the demand will be there.

“We’ve done our research. Consumers today have a growing awareness of the origins of their diamonds, so our brand can offer them the assurance of responsibly sourced, fully audited chain of custody,” he said.

The amount of cooperative advertising funds that will be available and which celebrity will carry the CanadaMark is still under consideration, Pounds said.

Previous attempts to establish a Canadian diamond brand were difficult because all of the larger mines were in the hands of different producers. Although there was no specific requirement that the diamonds be polished in the Northwest Territories, BHP did develop CanadaMark in tandem with efforts to start manufacturing there. Most cutting operations closed after a few years, however, because the high costs were not competitive with other diamond centers.

Approved manufacturers of CanadaMark diamonds are based in India, Canada and Belgium and have agreed to maintain the audited chain of custody. These operations, appointed by Dominion, are able to produce CanadaMark diamonds, assuring their provenance and origin at a competitive price, Pounds noted.

Ekati, commissioned in 1998, was Canada’s first diamond mine. Its discovery seven years earlier touched off a diamond rush not seen since the gaudy days of South Africa’s boom of the 1870s. This time, the prospectors flew aircraft with specially equipped sensors to detect potential kimberlites. BHP Billiton, which acquired a majority interest in Ekati, also staked claims to a number of kimberlites in the surrounding area.

At least one of the pipes will secure the future of Ekati for some years to come; mining at the original pipes, Misery and Koala, will likely end in 2019. Mining at the Fox pipe ended earlier this year because the costs of redeveloping it as an underground operation were too high. The large Jay pipe, however, has yet to be developed. Its production consists of mainly smaller stones, but is fairly rich at approximately two carats per ton. Jay, which lies under a shallow lake, could extend the life of the mine for another 10 to 20 years, Pounds said.

Diavik, discovered by Aber Resources during the mid-1990s diamond rush, started production in 2003 with a 40-60 partnership between Aber and Rio Tinto. Aber later acquired Harry Winston and took on the name of the New York–based retailer.

Pounds thinks there are eight to 10 years of production remaining from Diavik’s three main pipes. The mine transitioned to all-underground operation in 2012. One pipe, A-21, has yet to be developed.

BHP shook up the rough diamond market six years ago by becoming the first major producer to sell its production (from Ekati) by auction instead of selling at set prices by the “sight” system of set-price contracts. But as Pounds noted, Dominion has gone back to the sight system to ensure consistency of supply.

“Supply consistency is very important,” he said. “Manufacturers have to know what they are getting.” Accurate pricing is also important, he added, so Dominion will continue to auction a portion of its production every six months to accurately gauge market price levels.

Analysts expect Dominion sales to top $800 million this year, up about 6% from 2013’s total of $751.9 million, due mainly to increased volume, not price increases. Source: GIA @topic:8


Title: Spring 1996 G&G Book Reviews Abstract: “Synthetic Diamond: Emerging CVD Science and Technology”
By K. E. Spear and J. P. Dismukes (Eds.), 663 pp., illus., publ. by John Wiley & Sons, New York City, 1994. US$89.95

“The Peking Diamonds”
By Peter Read, 208 pp., publ. by Gembooks, Dorset, United Kingdom, 1995. US$17.00

“Colorado Rockhounding, A Guide to Minerals, Gemstones, and Fossils”
by Stephen M. Voynick, 372 pp., illus., publ. by Mountain Press Publishing Co., Missoula, MT, 1994, US$14.00 (paper)

“Mineral Books”
a special issue of Mineralogical Record, Vol. 26, No. 4, July-August 1995, 256 pp., illus., publ. by Mineralogical Record, Tucson, AZ, 1995, US$24.00* (hardcover with supplementary text, US$49.00

To view the full section, download the PDF above. Source: GIA @topic:7


Title: Characterization of Colorless Coated Cubic Zirconia (Diamantine) Abstract: Over the past several years, diamond simulants have entered the market that consisted of colorless cubic zirconia reportedly coated with a thin layer (e.g., represented to be 30–50 nm) of nanocrystalline diamond particles embedded in a matrix. One manufacturer, Serenity Technologies (Temecula, California), has marketed this material as Diamantine. SIMS chemical analysis of samples obtained from Serenity in October 2009 indicated a very thin (~5 nm) film of carbon (along with Al and Ti) on the CZ surface. Durability tests performed in conjunction with SEM imaging demonstrated that the thin coating does not completely withstand typical gemstone cleaning and handling procedures. The only standard gemological technique that could establish the presence of a coating was EDXRF spectroscopy, which detected Ti from the adhesion layer deposited on the CZ during the initial part of the coating process. Source: GIA @topic:4