Title: Gem-Quality Cr-Rich Kyanite from India Abstract: Figure 1. These gem-quality kyanites (0.99–6.17 ct) were reportedly mined in the eastern Indian state of Odisha. Photo by Gagan Choudhary.

In 2009, one of the contributors had the opportunity to see small lots of greenish blue to bluish green Cr-rich kyanite in Jaipur, reportedly mined from the eastern Indian state of Odisha (formerly Orissa). Most of the cabochons and faceted gems, ranging in size up to 25 ct, were highly included. In 2013, this Cr-rich kyanite from Odisha was again available in Jaipur, this time with very few or no eye-visible inclusions (figure 1). Although a few specimens contained numerous black inclusions, most of the stones lacked these features and had a more desirable uniform greenish blue to bluish green color, making them suitable for jewelry mounting.

Standard gemological properties were measured for one cabochon and two faceted samples (0.99–6.17 ct). The cabochon was chosen for its striking black eye-visible inclusions. The three samples showed an RI of 1.714–1.730 (spot RI of 1.73 for the cabochon) with birefringence of 0.016 and a biaxial positive optic sign, and a hydrostatic SG of 3.68–3.70. Moderate to strong trichroism was observed, with pleochroic colors of greenish blue, bluish green, and pale green. Under a desk-model spectroscope, all three displayed fine lines in the red region with absorption bands in the yellow-orange and blue regions. The samples appeared strong red under the Chelsea filter and were inert to both long- and short-wave UV. These properties were consistent with those reported for kyanite.

Figure 2. These kyanites display striking black metallic crystals of ilmenite; note the striated surface and the few colorless crystals of quartz. Photomicrograph by Gagan Choudhary; magnified 64×.
Examined under the microscope, the black inclusions in the cabochon appeared to be clusters of black grains with striated surfaces and metallic luster (figure 2); some appeared iridescent in reflected light, while others displayed frosted surfaces. Raman and SEM analysis identified these black grains as ilmenite. In addition, numerous colorless sub-rounded crystals of quartz, feldspar, and zircon were observed; the latter usually occurred in clusters, with stress cracks around them (figure 3). These samples also displayed cleavage planes in two directions and fine fissures, a characteristic usually seen in kyanites.

Figure 3. Clusters of zircon crystals associated with stress cracks were another common feature in these kyanites. Photomicrograph by Gagan Choudhary; magnified 80×.

Figure 4. The UV-Vis-NIR spectrum in the 300–800 nm region showed broad absorption band between 500 and 700 nm (assigned to Fe2+-Ti4+ charge transfer), along with twin peaks at approximately 690 and 708 nm (associated with Cr3+). In addition, numerous Fe3+-related peaks were present in the 350–470 nm region.
UV-Vis-NIR spectroscopy in the 300–800 nm region (figure 4) showed broad absorption bands between 500 and 700 nm, with a slight shift in the center position from about 585 nm (green direction) to 610 nm (blue direction). Also present were distinct peaks at approximately 370, 380, 417, 432, 446, 690, and 708 nm. The latter two peaks are associated with Cr3+ and the rest to Fe3+. The broad absorption band is attributed to the Fe2+-Ti4+ charge transfer (see G. Bosshart et al., “Blue colour-changing kyanite from East Africa,” Journal of Gemmology, Vol. 18, No. 3, pp. 205–212).

Gem-quality kyanite is already known from Nepal, Brazil, Kenya, Tanzania, and Madagascar (the latter material being Cr-rich as well). Now India can be added to this list, with attractive greenish blue to bluish green colors. The production and supply of this kyanite are still unknown. Source: GIA @topic:1


Title: Jonathan Muyal Named Gem-A's Photographer of the Year Abstract: Figure 1. This inclusion scene showing a growth blockage and thin-film rosette within a Sri Lankan sapphire was enhanced by modified Rheinberg illumination to resemble a flower in a rainstorm. The image won the Internal and Overall categories in Gem-A's annual photography competition and earned Jonathan Muyal the Photographer of the Year award. Field of view 1.34 mm.

Thanks to a stunning photomicrograph revealing the inclusion scene of a Sri Lankan sapphire, Carlsbad staff gemologist and G&G contributor Jonathan Muyal has been named Gem-A’s 2017 Gemstone Photographer of the Year. The winning shot—which also took top honors in the competition’s Internal category, dedicated to photomicrography—shows a growth blockage resulting in an elongate tube terminating in a rosette-like thin-film fluid inclusion. By applying modified Rheinberg illumination with blue and yellow filters, Muyal achieved the appearance of a flower caught in a rainstorm (figure 1). The image was the subject of a Fall 2017 Micro-World entry (p. 371).

Figure 2. Muyal also won Gem-A's Humanity in Gems category with this photo of a miner after finishing for the day at a sapphire deposit near Ilakaka, Madagascar.
Muyal was also the winner of the Humanity in Gems category, which focuses on scenes of people mining, dealing, or otherwise working with gemstones. Muyal’s photo shows a Malagasy miner who has finished a day’s work at a sapphire deposit near Ilakaka (figure 2).

The Photographer of the Year competition is open to all Gem-A members and students. Source: GIA @topic:7


Title: Researcher, Educator Uses Gems to Explore Ancient Civilizations Abstract: Çiğdem Lüle, speaking at GIA’s 2006 Gemological Research Conference, has dedicated much of her career to the identification and origin investigation of gems from archaeological sites, a multidisciplinary research subject known as archaeogemology. She is director of development for Gemworld International and is in demand as a presenter at symposia, trade events and conferences around the world.  Photo by Troy Witt, Take One Productions/GIA

	Dr. Çiğdem Lüle’s work day is no typical 9-5 shift: the mineralogist and GIA Graduate Gemologist could as easily find herself on an archaeological excavation site as in front of a classroom.

	Lüle, a jet-setting researcher, educator and recipient of the 2016 Antonio C. Bonnano Award for Excellence in Gemology, spends much of her time traveling the world, both as director of development for Gemworld International and as a sought-after speaker for conferences, symposia and trade events. She has dedicated much of her career to the identification and origin investigation of gems from archaeological sites, a multidisciplinary research subject known as archaeogemology.

	In her efforts to build a network of professionals around the subject, Lüle has also become one of archaeogemology’s primary developers and advocates – saying it provides “something that, traditionally, gemology, archaeology or mineralogy alone could not.”

	“Humanity’s interest in researching prior civilizations motivated the development of many social sciences, and archaeogemology is another approach in this quest,” Lüle says. “It combines the basic principles of gemology and the latest technology in mineral identification to assist in the interpretation of archaeological artifacts, mainly ancient gems. It goes well beyond translations of old texts and uses analytical and scientific methods to examine gem artifacts in-depth. The origin information can help archaeologists, as it sheds light into cross-cultural relations of ancient civilizations.”

	On one particularly memorable trip in 2000, Lüle joined an archaeological excavation site in Van, Turkey – an important Bronze Age site where the Uratian civilization flourished between 13th and 6th century CE.

	“I was there to identify stone objects, mainly gem materials,” she says. “I had no idea how rich this collection would be until I got there, but every single person was buried with hundreds, if not thousands, of stone beads – mostly locally found agate, chalcedony, carnelian and quartz beads, with many glass and ceramic imitations. It was a wonderful experience to sort through so many ancient beads.”

	Before Lüle launched into international travel and research, she was a geological engineering student at Ankara University in her native Turkey. When she landed a part-time job in a silversmith workshop her senior year, her interest in mineralogy, petrography and geochemistry turned toward ornamental minerals and gems.

	“There were many stones fashioned as gems, and I was really intrigued by the fact that common minerals could look so beautiful and so different after cutting. Yet, I couldn’t identify them after they were fashioned,” she says. “That’s when I discovered that gemology was the discipline that enables us to identify them through non-destructive techniques – and I got the ‘gem bug.’”

Çiğdem Lüle, PhD, FGA, GG, taught gemology at GIA’s “cosmopolitan, multinational” London campus for several years. “I’ve always enjoyed teaching for the opportunity that it offers to exchange information and ideas with others,” she says. Photo by Edward Johnson/GIA

	After graduation, Lüle earned two diplomas from the Gemmological Association of Great Britain before returning to Ankara University as a gem specialist and mineralogy research assistant. She finished her master’s degree in mineralogy there, finally relocating to the United Kingdom in 2001 to work as a sales assistant and gemologist for London’s R. Holt & Co.

	Soon after, she came into contact with GIA, earned her Graduate Gemologist diploma through the Distance Education program and started working as an on-campus instructor in 2004.

	“It was a great experience,” she says, of both her time as a student and instructor. “GIA courses train you not only for gemology, but also for the market. There is an emphasis on professionalism, customer service and integrity.”

	Lüle, a dual citizen of Turkey and the United Kingdom, appreciated the diversity she found at the Institute’s London campus – and the professional growth it encouraged.

	“It was a very cosmopolitan environment that attracted students from around the world,” she says. “It was a very colorful and interesting campus, and its multinational nature taught me that we’re all the same but may communicate differently. I learned to empathize while teaching, and once I started to put myself in my students’ shoes, it was a lot easier to convey information.”

	Committed to continuing her education, Lüle earned her doctorate in mineralogy from Hacettepe University while she was teaching at GIA. She worked for the Institute until leaving for the United States, and Gemworld International, a market research and price trend provider for the gem trade, in 2010.

“The core Gemworld team is small but very efficient and experienced,” says Çiğdem Lüle (second from left), who moved to the United States in 2010 to manage the Illinois company’s special projects then became their director of development. “Their understanding of the global gem market has no equal, in my opinion.” Lüle says that all of the company’s appraisers are GIA Graduate Gemologists and members of the GIA Alumni Association. Courtesy of Scott Drucker, © Gemworld International.

	“I wanted to carry their unequaled understanding of the global market and experience into practical work,” says Lüle, who focuses on education and special projects like the development of Gemworld’s color communication system. “I develop hands-on, practical workshops and teach pricing strategies based on market dynamics. I believe in verified scientific information, so my research is always in-depth when I work on a project, and my classes are always updated with new information and research.”

	Lüle believes that, for GIA students, their own diplomas are “a beginning.”

	“It’s a great kick start with good qualification, but you’ll need to build upon it with continuous education and practical experience in such a dynamic gem and jewelry market,” she says. “And you can’t be successful in this business without a passion for gems – it’s beyond identification or selling. I don’t know a single successful gemologist who wouldn’t get excited when they examine an unusual or newly identified gem. Just watch their face while they handle the stone and test it.”

	For Lüle, the gemstone that still captures her interest, and holds possibilities for research, is the garnet.

	“Gemologists only know of a few of them, but garnets are a large group of minerals, and their complexity is in their mineral structure – they are a great geological record of the conditions in which they’ve grown,” she says. “Despite the common belief that these early gems were sourced from India, certain archaeological and mineralogical findings suggest a much more complicated set of locations. Every time I test a garnet, I get excited, without fail.” Source: GIA @topic:7


Title: Book Review: Gem Testing Techniques Abstract: By Alan Hodgkinson, hardcover, 552 pp., publ. by Valerie Hodgkinson, 2015, GBP185.

Although several books on gem testing have been previously published, this particularly comprehensive volume by renowned gemologist Alan Hodgkinson will certainly be a welcome addition to members of the field.  This book is geared towards a general audience from beginners to career gemologists. It is saturated with information, yet isn’t so technical to be impractical. The numerous chapters are organized in broad categories relating to particular physical properties. From acid testing of gem materials to the correct application of ultraviolet light, there is little that Hodgkinson does not cover. This book is well written with great detail. In its 552 pages, the reader will be pleased to find numerous images and diagrams that, while not generally glamorous, are very adequate for aiding the reader in understanding the concepts discussed. Scattered throughout the volume are a number of tips and tricks that the practicing gemologist may find useful to gain information while testing an unknown gem, such as using top lighting to observe pleochroism with a refractometer. Many of the methods require readily available and inexpensive materials, which many gemologists will appreciate; the use of “visual optics” to measure refractive indices with an elongate paper as an indexed scale is one example.

The book is clad in a plain blue hard cover, with silver lettering on the front cover and spine. A ribbon is included for marking one’s place as the reader navigates the pages. The overall quality of the paper, printing and binding appear to be very good. Overall, this book serves as a great reference for gemologists. The decades of experience by the author are apparent when reading through this book. Surely this will be a highly sought-after publication from which hobbyists and professional gemologists alike can benefit. Source: GIA @topic:1


Title: Spring 2017 Auction Updates: The Most Expensive Gem Ever and Other Records Abstract: When it sold for $71 million at Sotheby’s in April, the GIA-graded 59.6 ct. Chow Tai Fook Pink Star became the most expensive gemstone ever sold at auction. Photo courtesy of Sotheby’s

The spring 2017 auction season saw two important price records fall and solid, if not rising, prices for top gems across the board
In April, the news was the Pink Star, the 59.60 carat (ct) GIA-graded Fancy Vivid pink diamond that sold for $71.2 million at Sotheby’s Hong Kong, setting the record for the most expensive gemstone ever sold at auction. The diamond is a record-holder in itself, being the largest-known Fancy Vivid pink diamond. Its appearance on the block set bloggers and reporters into action around the world.
The diamond was originally named the Steinmetz Pink, after the firm that purchased and cut the 132.5 ct rough. After it was unveiled in 2003, the stone was exhibited at the Smithsonian Institution with six other extraordinary fancy color diamonds.
The diamond was sent to Sotheby’s in the fall of 2013 where it achieved a top bid of $83 million from a New York diamond cutter. This was nearly double the previous record – a different pink diamond bought by London jeweler Laurence Graff in 2011. After several months, however, the buyer was unable to pay for it, so the diamond was returned to the auction house’s vault until this year.
Bidding on the pink gem was spirited until it approached the $70 million mark, when Hong Kong retail giant Chow Tai Fook called the winning amount and announced it was renaming it the Pink Star.
While news reports noted the world record price for a gemstone, the diamond’s per-carat price, $1.2 million, was actually well under the prevailing market price for similar rare colored diamonds.
The similarly graded 24.78 ct Graff pink sold for $46 million in 2011 at $1.85 million per carat. The previous price record holder, the 14.62 ct Fancy Vivid blue Oppenheimer Blue diamond, brought $57 million in 2015, for $3.93 million per carat – still below the world record price per carat. Both also were graded by GIA.
That record is held by the 12.03 ct Blue Moon diamond, graded by GIA, which sold in 2015 for $48.4 million, or $4.01 million per carat.

Provenance, along with a lack of inclusions, helped the 18.04 ct Rockefeller Emerald achieve a record per-carat price of $304,000 at Christie’s in June. Photo courtesy of Christie’s Images

Had the per-carat price of the Pink Star diamond equaled the world record, the hammer would have come down on a bid of $239 million.
The 18.04 ct Rockefeller Emerald broke the second important record by achieving the highest per-carat amount – $305,000 – for that variety of gemstone. The gem, which was sold for $5.5 million by Christie’s on June 20, was exceptionally free of the fissures found in most emeralds.
First purchased by Harry Winston, the emerald was named after John D. Rockefeller Jr., who acquired the stone in 1930 for his wife, Abby. After she died 18 years later, their son, David Rockefeller had the emerald set into a ring by designer Raymond Yard.
The previous record price for an emerald was Elizabeth Taylor’s Bulgari emerald and diamond brooch, which sold for $280,000 per carat.

The Apollo and Artemis diamonds, twin fancy colored diamonds of 14.54 cts and 16 cts, respectively, sold for $57 million at Sotheby’s in May. Photo courtesy of Sotheby’s

Other highlights of the season included an interesting “mismatched” set of ear-pendants offered by Sotheby’s on May 16. One contains the 16 ct GIA-graded Fancy Intense pink Artemis diamond and the other the 14.54 ct GIA-graded Fancy Vivid blue Apollo diamond. The set sold for a total of $57 million: $15.3 million for the pink ($958,000 per carat) and $42.1 million for the blue ($2.9 million per carat).

The 92 ct La Legende, the costliest heart shaped diamond to sell at auction, drew a winning bid of $14.98 million at Christie’s in May. Photo courtesy of Christie’s Images

Christie’s also sold the GIA-graded 92 ct D-flawless La Legende diamond for $14.98 million in May. While this was a record price for a heart-shaped diamond, its per-carat price of $163,000, fell well below other, similarly graded diamonds. The record per-carat price for a D-flawless diamond is $283,000.
While this season saw fewer records fall and prices slightly below that of pervious auction seasons, it must be noted that prices often fluctuate wildly at this extreme high level – buyers are exceptionally picky, especially those who buy for investment reasons, and the presence or absence of a single well-heeled bidder can make a huge difference in the hammer price. Source: GIA @topic:8


Title: Sapphires from the Gem Rush Bemainty area, Ambatondrazaka (Madagascar) Abstract: Sapphires of approximately 15 cts in size, reportedly from the gem rush near Ambatondrazaka, seen at KV Gems office in Bangkok in Dec 2016; stones courtesy KV Gems, Bangkok. Photo by Vincent Pardieu/GIA.

	New discoveries of fine quality blue sapphire sizes suitable for large fashioned gems are always welcomed by the gem trade. In the last decade and half, the island of Madagascar has emerged as a globally important source of gem quality corundum. However, the latest find of attractive large stones at Bemainty is problematic for the trade. Although it has produced more fine blue and padparadscha type sapphires than any other recent Malagasy deposit in just a few months, it is located deep inside a designated conservation area where mining is prohibited by the government.

	This report describes conditions at the mining sites, the mining methods used, and documents the gems seen at the mines and in local gem markets. It also provides a summary of the recent history of gem corundum mining in Madagascar along with regional and local geological context for the discovery.

	As a preliminary study, researchers from GIA’s Bangkok laboratory analyzed 38 representative Bemainty sapphire samples obtained from a reputable merchant in November 2016. They investigated gemological properties, inclusion scenes, spectroscopic features, and trace element chemical composition. Results from their study and field observations from the mining area appear in a new article titled “Sapphires from the gem rush Bemainty area, Ambatondrazaka (Madagascar).”

	This study indicates that the geographical origin of stones from this new locality will be challenging for gem labs to determine as the material ranges from geuda-type stones with low iron content similar to those from other Malagasy deposits and Sri Lanka, to gems with higher iron content resembling some blue sapphires from Myanmar or Tanzania.

	The new sapphire find at Bemainty is east of Ambatondrazaka and falls inside the Ankeniheny-Zahamena Corridor (CAZ), which was designated a protected area by the Malagasy government. As mining is prohibited within the CAZ, the arrival of thousands of people determined to mine challenges conservation efforts by the authorities. Source: GIA @topic:1


Title: The British Royal Jewels: Beautiful and Historic Gems Abstract: The Sovereign’s Sceptre features the 530.2 carat Cullinan I diamond, which can be removed and worn as a brooch. Photo courtesy of Alan Jobbins.

			All eyes were on Britain in July 2013 as the world eagerly awaited the arrival of the newest British royal. The first child of the Duke and Duchess of Cambridge – a boy – was born July 22, 2013, and is third in-line for the throne. He will inherit a rich legacy and perhaps wear some of the most prized, historical jewels of the royal realm.

			The six pieces described below are part of the Royal Collection, held in trust by Her Majesty Queen Elizabeth II for her successors and the nation, or the personal property of Queen Elizabeth II. These gems are not only beautiful, but have a rich history and distinct gemological allure.

The Crown of Queen Elizabeth

			The crown of Queen Elizabeth, the queen mother, features the famous 105.6 carat Koh-I-Noor diamond, which came to Queen Victoria in 1850 from Duleep Singh, the last Maharaja of the Sikh Empire. It became a part of the Crown Jewels in 1877.

			“Also known as the Mountain of Light, legend said that the owner of the Koh-I-Noor ruled the world. Others believed that any man who wore it would be cursed,” said Dona Dirlam, director of GIA’s Richard T. Liddicoat Gemological Library.

Imperial State Crown

			The Imperial State Crown features the Black Prince’s Ruby, which is actually a different gem – a red spinel.

			“In ancient times, the mines of central and southeast Asia yielded exceptionally large spinel crystals. These fine stones became known as Balas rubies, and some of them were the treasured property of kings and emperors, often passing through many hands as spoils of war. As a result, some of the world’s most illustrious “rubies” are actually spinel,” said Russell Shor, GIA’s senior industry analyst.

			The cross at the top of the crown is set with a stone known as St. Edward's Sapphire, taken from Edward the Confessor’s (11th c.) ring or coronet. The famous 317.4 carat Cullinan II diamond, or Lesser Star of Africa, is set on the front, while the back band contains the 104 carat Stuart Sapphire (17th c.).

Sovereign’s Sceptre

			The Sovereign’s Sceptre, originally made for the coronation of King Charles II in 1661, was redesigned in 1910 after the discovery of the Cullinan Diamond, and set with the 530.2 carat Cullinan I, known as the Great Star of Africa.

			“The Cullinan diamond weighed an astounding 3,106.75 carats before it was cut into the Great Star of Africa, the Lesser Star of Africa, and 103 other diamonds of nearly flawless clarity,” Shor said. “The Great Star of Africa is now the world’s largest colorless cut diamond, and the second largest cut diamond of any color.”

			The Cullinan I can be removed from the Sovereign’s Sceptre and worn as a brooch.

Queen Elizabeth’s Halo Tiara

			The diamond and platinum tiara features a prominent scroll motif and was made in the “Halo” style, which was popularized by Cartier to suit the softer hairstyles of the 1930s. Platinum was a popular metal during this period until the outbreak of World War II. The tiara was given to Princess Elizabeth on her 18th birthday, and most notably loaned to the Duchess of Cambridge on her wedding day in 2011.

Queen Adelaide’s Fringe Necklace

			Queen Adelaide’s Fringe Necklace has been in the queen’s possession since 2002.

			“This is a versatile piece, much like many other pieces in the royal collection, and has been worn as a necklace, a border to a dress and a crown,” said Larry Larson, GIA trend expert. The piece, originally created by Rundell using diamonds removed from various pieces of George III’s and Queen Charlotte’s jewelry and insignia, has been worn by British queens since 1831.

The Coronation Necklace

			Queen Victoria lost significant pieces of the family jewels that she considered her own in 1857 due to succession laws of the time. This included her grandmother’s (Queen Charlotte) diamond necklace and earrings.

			Garrard, the official crown jeweler at the time, was ordered to replace the lost jewels by taking stones from swords and other “useless things” in the queen’s collection. The original 26 total stones in the necklace – nine between 8.25 and 11.25 carats – were taken from a Garter badge and sword hilt.

			A favorite of Queen Victoria, the necklace was also worn at the coronations of Queens Alexandra; Mary; Elizabeth, the queen mother; and Queen Elizabeth II. Source: GIA @topic:7


Title: Designer’s Love of Brazil – and its Gems – Shines in Every Piece She Creates Abstract: Karyna Sena loves the travel involved in her gem and jewelry career and has visited mines in Brazil and other countries since she was a young girl. “Tell me that you need me to go somewhere in the world,” she says, “and all I need to do is check the temperature to pack.” She is pictured at a sapphire mine near Colombo, Sri Lanka. Courtesy of Karyna Sena

	The rich tapestry of Brazil − from its dances, music and Carnival festivals to its native plants, animals and fruits − finds its way into each piece of designer Karyna Sena’s jewelry.

	“I try to explore the Brazilian ‘way’ in my pieces,” says Sena, a GIA GG born in Salvador, capital of the gemstone-rich state of Bahia. “Jewelry must be fun!”

	Sena’s joie de vivre, and her enthusiasm for her homeland, reflects a career and life that have, in one way or another, intersected with almost the entire colored stone supply chain of Brazil.

	“As the granddaughter of a miner and daughter of a gem dealer, colored gemstones run in my blood,” says Sena, whose father opened a wholesale and retail store, Lasbonfim, in 1967. Sena had a playpen in the store and grew up “crawling the floors of the family store.” She remembers finding rough colored stones mixed up with her dolls, and taking trips to mines with her family.

	“I remember clearly the first time my parents took us to an emerald mine in Campo Formoso, in the countryside of Bahia,” she says. “I was the first one to jump in the hole – never afraid of the dark or high temperature. I felt like Indiana Jones looking for treasures!”

 Karyna Sena as a child, left, with her mother, father and two younger brothers, at a Lasbonfim store opening and ribbon-cutting ceremony in the 1980s. “As the granddaughter of a miner and the daughter of a gem dealer, colored gemstones run in my blood,” Sena says. Courtesy of Karyna Sena

	Sena was also captivated by her father’s ability to discern an emerald’s origin by analyzing its colors and inclusions. He taught her how to classify the rough and polished stones and made sure she knew the ins and outs of the family business.

	“My parents gave us the best education possible and let us choose whatever we wanted to do as a career, but they made sure that we knew our business,” she says. “If we didn’t succeed in whatever career we had chosen, we would always know how to do something else.”

	But Sena was “completely in love with Brazilian gemstones” and wanted the family business as her “life’s work.”

	She earned bachelor’s degrees in the late 1990s in both geology and business from the Universidade Federal da Bahia and Universidade Salvador, respectively, then moved to Europe to “experience the glamour and trends of the European fashion industry firsthand, and be exposed to a diversity of styles.” She made London her home base and traveled throughout the continent (and many others) for several years.

	She returned to Brazil in 2012 to design and market her own jewelry line at Lasbonfim. “Back in the ‘80s, everything available at my parents’ store was very classic,” she says. “I decided to make jewelry with ‘odd’ cuts and with gemstones that were not usually set in jewelry in 18K gold.”

	Sena’s “dreams in the form of jewelry” were inspired by “the colors and the happiness of Brazil, meeting the elegance of Europe.” Her first line, Orishas, sold well – and quickly, particularly to North American tourists wanting to take home a piece of Brazil.

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	She incorporated her design line, Karyna Sena, but even with her success as a designer and as the director of Lasbonfim, she felt like she was missing something – a GIA diploma. She knew about GIA because her parents often helped GIA instructors and gemologists who came to Brazil to teach or do business.

	“They would trade gems for gem-testing equipment that we couldn’t find in Brazil,” she says. “I had a chance to meet some of these people and learn the importance of the work that GIA does,” she says.

	“I learned a bit of theory by studying geology and lots of experience in the trade, but I wanted the international respect that a GIA gemologist has. I wanted that diploma on my wall.”

	Sena moved back to London to study at the Institute’s campus there, and earned her Graduate Gemologist and AJP diplomas in 2011.

	“It was a sabbatical year, entirely devoted to GIA. I always joke that I was married to GIA for that time,” she says. “You have to have passion for it. It is only with focus, commitment and passion that you can succeed. It is a hard course, but it completely pays off.”

	Along with the “incredible networking opportunities,” Sena appreciates that she uses what she learned at GIA “on a daily basis” – especially as she also does valuations now.

 Karyna Sena holds several leadership positions in the gem and jewelry industry, including serving as the vice president of the CIBJO retail sector. She is pictured here at a 2015 event, with (from left) Fiera di Vicenza President Facco Corrado, CIBJO President Gaetano Cavalieri and GJEPC Vice Chairman Pankaj Parekh. Photo by Paulo Alcantara /Courtesy of Karyna Sena

	In addition to her many roles at Lasbonfim and Karyna Sena, she is serving as the first female president of the Bahia Association of Producers and Traders of Gems, Jewelry, and Precious Metals; is the youngest board member of the Brazilian Institute of Gems and Precious Metals; and is the vice president for the retail sector of the CIBJO World Jewelry Confederation.

	“We are living in a very competitive and professional world – it is smaller and faster, and there is no room for amateurism anymore,” says Sena, who lives in Brazil with her husband, Marcelo Storel. “I truly believe that the only way to be successful and still be in the game is by being creative and professional. And you can only achieve this with education.” Source: GIA @topic:10


Title: Gem Materials at the Second European Mineralogical Conference (emc2016) Abstract: The European Mineralogical Conference, organized by the Italian Society of Mineralogy and Petrology (SIMP) and the Universities of Ferrara and Padova, was held in Rimini, Italy, September 11–15. Among the event’s 28 sessions was “Gem Materials,” chaired by this contributor, Lee Groat (University of British Columbia, Vancouver, Canada), Federico Pezzotta (Museum of Natural History, Milan), and David Turner (University of British Columbia). “Gem Materials” yielded both an oral and a poster session.

	The poster session, held September 13, covered topics such as worldwide emerald sources; red beryl; demantoid from Madagascar; turquoise from the collections of the Royal Mineralogical Museum of Naples; epidote from Val Malenco, Italy; and rhodonite from the Swiss Alps. There was also a review of colored gems in art and gemology, as well as experimental work applied to gems from miarolitic pegmatites.

	The September 15 oral session featured 14 presentations. Dan Marshall (Simon Fraser University, Burnaby, Canada) opened with a keynote address on a reclassification of emerald deposit formation models based on tectonic and metamorphic conditions. Emmanuel Fritsch (Institut des Matériaux, Jean Rouxel, University of Nantes, France) posed the question of why some minerals are gem quality, using crystal growth as a consideration.

Peter Bačik (Comenius University, Bratislava, Slovakia) began the presentations on Cr- and V-bearing minerals with spectrometric characterizations of ruby, spinel, chrysoberyl, diopside, garnet, zoisite, emerald, and tourmaline. Isabella Pignatelli (French National Center of Research, Vandœuvre) studied the Cr- and V-bearing euclase from the Gachala mining district of Colombia, focusing on atypical texture formed by solid inclusions trapped along crystallographic axes. Her presentation opened a discussion of trapiche vs. trapiche-like textures. Dan Marshall spoke again, this time on fluid inclusions and stable isotope data from emerald in Western Australia’s Poona deposit, showing multiple generations of emerald combined with metamorphic and magmatic fluid circulations. This contributor demonstrated that it was possible to decipher the geographic origin of pink and red spinel through oxygen isotopes and trace-element data on pink and red spinels in marble, with a special focus on the Kul-i-Lal mine in Tajikistan. Stefanos Karampelas (GemResearch Swisslab, Adligenswil, Switzerland) offered new insights on detection of heat treatment of tanzanite, indicating that this form of treatment can only be identified under very specific circumstances.

Aaron C. Palke (University of Queensland and Queensland Museum, Brisbane, Australia) presented on melt inclusions in sapphires from Montana’s Yogo deposit, which are similar in composition and mineralogy to the ocelli observed in the Yogo lamprophyres. David Turner offered new mineralogical insights from near-field hyperspectral imaging of sapphire-bearing marble at Baffin Island, Canada.

	The silica family was covered in three presentations. Benjamin Rondeau (University of Nantes) related the presence of numerous minerals (including an unknown type) from the lazulite-bearing blue quartzite from Itremo, Madagascar. Ilaria Adamo (Italian Gemological Institute, Milan) characterized blue and white banded chalcedony (agate) from Yozgat Province in Turkey. The agate formed from mixture of quartz and moganite, but the origin of the blue color is unknown, since iron content at approximately 10 ppm is constant in all the banding. Boris Chauviré (University of Nantes) explained a model for the formation of precious opal from Wegel Tena, Ethiopia. The model suggests a paleotopographic control on the location of the deposits and the repetition of the soil formation process in space and time.

	Special topics related to gem museums and historical writings were also covered. William B. “Skip” Simmons (Maine Mineral and Gem Museum, Bethel) retraced the state’s recent and historical gem production and the museum’s acquisitions from Maine pegmatites. Ann C. Pizzorusso (Naples, Italy) tackled the gems of Dante’s Divine Comedy, discussing the gemological knowledge of the late Middle Ages and the meanings associated with precious metals, pearls, rubies, diamonds, and other gems.

	Details from the European Mineralogical Conference are available at http://emc2016.socminpet.it.The next conference will take place in 2020 at a site to be determined. Source: GIA @topic:1


Title: Gem Buyers Beware: Get Rich Quick Scams Abstract: One of the best ways you can ensure you are not getting scammed is to research gems in person with an expert. Visit retailers and ask if they have a GIA Graduate Gemologist on staff. They can show you examples of gems you are interested in and tell you about them so you can make an informed purchase.

	People’s love of diamonds and other gemstones runs deep. Even the most ancient cultures prized them for adornment and as tangible symbols of wealth.

	In modern times, the unscrupulous play on people's deep love for gemstones and the notion of a gem’s lasting value. They employ dubious get rich quick schemes – so-called diamond and gem investments – to take advantage of the gullible and scam them.

	While quality gemstones generally maintain their value if purchased at a fair price and held over a long period of time, scammers tempt buyers by promising get-rich-quick profits or protection for their money in times of economic uncertainty. The “deal” often degenerates and the buyer is left holding greatly overpriced gems.

	There are several different ways these scammers go about taking consumers’ money. Here are four of the most common get rich quick scams.

	Gem Scam #1: The “Boiler Room”

	This very common scam begins with an unsolicited phone call or email, or perhaps a website link bearing a provocative headline lurking in the corner of a legitimate news or ecommerce site. The seller shows or describes sumptuous-looking gemstones and goes on to tell prospective buyers how they can get rich quick by obtaining stones worth as much as 10 times their purchase prices by “buying direct from the source.”

	Those who follow up are subjected to a high-pressure, often convincing sales pitch – always centered around the threat that this opportunity for big profits will be gone in a flash. Or this variation: “We have a European buyer who has given us a much better offer ... if you buy this gemstone, you could resell it through us for a tidy profit.”

	If the buyer hesitates, the real pressure starts: “Most people lose opportunities because they are afraid. Are YOU afraid of making $50,000 or even $100,000?” By now, the vast majority of prospects have tuned out − but some people can’t resist a “bargain” and send them a check.

	Often, the scammers gain their victims’ trust by first offering a stone for $100 or $200. They then call the customer back offering to repurchase it for a substantially higher price, but strongly suggest they apply that credit to a much costlier stone − $2,000 to $5,000 − that has even greater appreciation potential. If the customer takes the deal … well, you know what happens next.

	A typical example of this get rich quick scam: Some years ago the newspapers wrote about a physician who, after receiving several phone calls from such an operation, purchased two emeralds for $12,150. When the buyer had them appraised, their combined value totaled about $900. The company that sold him the emeralds raked in more than $35 million from other buyers before it closed down.

	Scammers usually try to delay consumer complaints by sending the gemstones in sealed containers with the warning that breaking the seal will invalidate any buy-back guarantee.

	Prosecutions are rare in most of these cases because these scammers shut down operations after complaints to law enforcement and consumer agencies begin to filter in. And quite often they go back in business under a new name in search of more victims.

	Gem Scam #2: The Ponzi Scheme

	A more elaborate version of the Boiler Room scam is a Ponzi scheme. Early investors are paid large returns on their purchases to get the attention of financial advisors who then, often unwittingly, place their clients’ money into gemstones from that seller.

	One recent get rich quick scam involved a company that claimed to control amber “mines” in the Dominican Republic and Argentina and offered buyers shares with the profits to be paid in Bitcoin, the cyber currency. Investors who put up $10,000 were promised returns as high as 6,400%.  The U.S. Securities and Exchange Commission (SEC), which shut the operation down in 2015, reported that after a few initial investors were paid, the remainder lost all of their funds. The SEC confirmed losses of $32 million, but estimated that the total could go as high as $100 million.

	Gem Scam #3: “Financial Security” Scams

	Another type of diamond and gem investment scam targets individuals who fear hyper-inflation or cataclysmic financial and social collapse. Scam operators obtain names from sellers of other “survivalist” or “hard-asset” products and relentlessly target prospective buyers with the message that cash and stocks will become near worthless in the coming crash − but they can preserve their wealth by holding gemstones and diamonds. While the pitches are different, the operation and outcomes are usually the same.

	While most of these companies close down fairly quickly before law enforcement agencies have a chance to react to complaints, they invariably sell buyers’ information to other scammers, who then offer to buy the stones at a fraction of their cost or a trade-in against the purchase of a much more valuable stone. This stone, of course, turns out to be as worthless as the first one.

	Gem Scam #4: The Tourist Trap

	While not exactly a get rich quick scheme, this gem scam takes advantage of those looking for that ‘great deal’ when making a gem or jewelry purchase. The scam is face-to-face, and often happens to people relaxing on vacation.

	Tourists love to purchase jewelry on their trips, especially in resort destinations and cruise ship ports. And while there are many trustworthy, established businesses selling gemstones in these places, there also are scammers selling imitation or highly treated stones worth a tiny fraction of their purchase price.

	The pitch often starts with a “tout” who approaches window shoppers outside established retailers. They have a “friend who’s a gem wholesaler” and, sure enough, that $1,000 ruby ring in the retailer’s window is only $400 from the back-alley dealer. By the time the buyer finds out it’s a synthetic or a glass-filled ruby of little value, he or she is back home with no recourse.

	Know How to Protect Yourself

	How do you protect yourself from scammers and distinguish them for honest sellers?

	Criminologists call such scams “crimes of persuasion,” which means the seller is skilled at penetrating natural defenses and logic with get-rich-quick promises of wealth or they play to the fears of their “mark.”

Be alert. Be wary of unsolicited telephone calls, emails or Internet sellers offering gems for investment. Keep your natural defense system working.

Remember the grander the promise, the greater likelihood of disappointment. If a 10-fold profit sounds too good to be true, then it surely is. There are no honest shortcuts to wealth and high profit in the gemstone and diamond business. The vast majority of gemstones and diamonds are traded through long-established networks where prices are well-established. Prices do vary greatly when you are talking about the quality of the gemstone – as with any natural product, there is a very broad range of quality available and prices vary accordingly.

	For example, a one carat diamond that is highly flawed and has a very noticeable tint, will trade for less than 10% of a flawless stone of the same size with top color. The story is much the same with ruby, emerald and sapphire. So, chances are the beautiful stone you see in the photographs will look a lot less appealing when the package arrives.

	Prices of gemstones do not fluctuate so wildly that they make it possible for a buyer to make a 5, 10 or 1,000 percent profit within a few months. If stones rose in price that quickly, the seller would be keeping them for his or herself and not be trying to sell them to you.

Learn about the factors that influence gemstone values. Take the time to understand the 4Cs of diamond quality (color, clarity, cut and carat weight) and their effect on price. Familiarize yourself with common gemstone treatments, synthetics and imitations. Learn how the quality and value of gemstones are determined, and you’ll be better prepared to recognize a legitimate offer. GIA’s Gem Encyclopedia is an excellent source of information about diamonds and gemstones and the factors that make them rare, appealing and valuable.

Insist on a world-recognized, independent, grading report like GIA’s for any gemstone purchase. A GIA Diamond Grading Report provides an objective assessment of a diamond’s quality based on the 4C’s and discloses any permanent treatments that may have been done to enhance its appearance. For added security, GIA will laser inscribe the report number on the diamond’s girdle.

	GIA reports are also available for all colored stones and pearls. These reports identify whether or not the gemstone is natural or synthetic and describe any treatments made to it.

	If you’re presented with a gemstone and a GIA report, you can use Report Check to verify that the report results match those listed in the GIA database.

Research gems by seeing them in person. Visit retailers and, if they have a GIA Graduate Gemologist on staff, ask her or him to show you examples and tell you about the gem so you can make an informed purchase. If you have any doubts about a gemstone with a report that you already own, they will be able to help you determine whether or not it is the gem described in the report.

	A gemstone may not bring instant profits − but it will enhance your life by its beauty. Source: GIA @topic:7


Title: Pezzottaite from Ambatovita, Madagascar: A New Gem Mineral Abstract: Pezzottaite, ideally Cs(Be2Li)Al2Si6O18, is a new gem mineral that is the Cs,Li–rich member of the beryl group. It was discovered in November 2002 in a granitic pegmatite near Ambatovita in central Madagascar. Only a few dozen kilograms of gem rough were mined, and the deposit appears nearly exhausted. The limited number of transparent faceted stones and cat’s-eye cabochons that have been cut usually show a deep purplish pink color. Pezzottaite is distinguished from beryl by its higher refractive indices (typically no=1.615–1.619 and ne=1.607–1.610) and specific gravity values (typically 3.09–3.11). In addition, the new mineral’s infrared and Raman spectra, as well as its X-ray diffraction pattern, are distinctive, while the visible spectrum recorded with the spectrophotometer is similar to that of morganite. The color is probably caused by radiation-induced color centers involving Mn3+.

	DATA DEPOSITORY

Table 1: Electron-Microprobe Analyses of Pezzottaite Done at the University of New Orleans
Table 2: Mn, Fe, and Ti Abundances in Pezzottaite and Red and Pink Beryls
Spectra: IR Absorption, Raman, and X-ray Diffraction
	Submitted by Brendan M. Laurs
	January 20, 2004 Source: GIA @topic:2


Title: Gem Lovers Converge on Tucson 2016 for Treasures, Reunions Abstract: GIA Alumni Association members from around the world meet up in at the dinner, dance and auction in Tucson. From left, Pedro Fernandez Molina, a jewelry designer from Spain; Debi Flores, global alumni relations coordinator for GIA; Kate Donovan, global alumni relations manager for GIA; Andrea Neves Bento, president of the Spain chapter; and Gabrielle Mattice, from Pala International.

	Dealers, designers, buyers and other attendees converge in Tucson in early February each year to share their passion for gems, minerals and jewelry – and reconnect with colleagues and friends from around the world. From the AGTA GemFair at the convention center to hotel rooms and tent cities spread across the desert, an extensive array of gem and mineral fairs take over the area. Gem lovers take advantage of the many opportunities to peruse tables of treasures and get an up-close look at old favorites and new discoveries.

	The compass pointed north this year for the GIA Alumni Association’s “Party at the Gem Mine: Artic Blast” dinner dance and auction, which has become the best destination in Tucson to reunite with former classmates and friends in the industry. More than 350 guests from 17 countries (the U.S., Brazil, Canada, Columbia, China, Japan, Spain, Portugal, Malta, Italy, South Africa, England, Thailand and more) attended the artic-themed event. Guests mingled amongst polar bear and igloo decorations − and signposts of artic mines − as a video highlighting alumni chapters activities from around the world played in the background.

	Beyond catching up with old friends, this alumni event is an opportunity to support the Alumni Endowment Fund. This year’s event raised more than $25,000, which includes more than $14,000 from the silent and live auctions. Seventy items, including loose gemstones and pearls, designer jewelry, mineral specimen, equipment, books and more, were available to bid on. Joseph DuMouchelle and Lindy Adducci, of DuMouchelle Auctions, volunteered their professional services – for the 15th year – to run the exciting live auction.

	“A special thank you to all our auction contributors, supporters, event volunteers and attendees,” said Kate Donovan, manager of alumni relations. “And save the date for next year’s bash – Friday, Feb. 3, 2017. We are already accepting donations!”

View Gallery

	GIA Alumni Association chapter leaders and senior GIA executives also gathered in Tucson for a leadership forum to discuss chapter ideas, challenges, policy and plans. This annual event makes it possible for attendees to share and coordinate ideas and enhance relationships between chapters for the overall benefit of the alumni association.

	Forty-three alumni leaders from 21 chapters (the U.S., Canada, Mexico, Sri Lanka, Spain and Portugal) attended, along with GIA executives Susan Jacques, president and CEO; Bev Hori, senior vice president of education and Chief Learning Officer; Anna Martin, senior vice president of global development; and Stephen Morisseau, director of corporate communications.

	Starla Turner, a longtime alumni leadership council member and immediate past-president of CA – Golden Gate chapter, lead a spirited chapter-to-chapter peer discussion session to share meeting topic ideas and how to engage more alumni with local chapters.

Susan Jacques and other GIA executives meet with alumni chapter leaders from around the globe at the Alumni Chapter Leadership Forum in Tucson.

	GIA Displays

	The GIA Museum and the Richard T. Liddicoat Library and Information Center had exhibits during the gem shows.

	GIA’s museum AGTA exhibit “Striking Gold!” featured a number of transparent yellow gem species and varieties on the market, including sapphire, citrine, topaz and more unusual, collector gem minerals. The museum also created a display for the Tucson Gem and Mineral Show (TGMS) to reflect the annual theme, “Shades of Blue: Minerals of the World.” It featured rough and cut stones, jewelry and carved objet d’art and won the award for Best in Show.

	The library’s TGMS display, “Providing Access in a Digital World” gave visitors insight into the library’s recent digitization project, begun in 2015. The library staff is working on an extensive project to make many of its rare and historically significant books available online to the public. Source: GIA @topic:9


Title: Top Gems Continue to Set Records at 2015 Auctions Abstract: The 16.08 ct. Fancy Vivid pink diamond sold for $28.5 million to the same buyer who bought the record-breaking Blue Moon Josephine diamond. Photo courtesy Christie’s

                      The major auction houses had another successful year with fine jewelry, helped immensely by record-setting bids from a number of private buyers.

Christie’s and Sotheby’s, who dominate the auction market worldwide, recorded an estimated $1.2 billion in gem and jewelry sales between them for the year. Other auction houses that sold very important gems, including Bonham’s of London and Tiancheng in Hong Kong, added $70 to $80 million to the total.

This total is down slightly from last year, said Francois Curiel, chairman of Christie's Asia-Pacific. “The market showed great interest in rare, top-quality stones, with very high prices,” he said. “The middle market pieces showed a lot more resistance.”

	The $48 million Blue Moon Josephine, a 12.08 ct. Fancy Vivid blue, is the most expensive gemstone ever sold at auction. Its $4 million per carat price exceeded the previous record by $1 million. Photo courtesy Sotheby’s

Several gems made worldwide headlines this fall:

		A 12.03 carat (ct.) Fancy Vivid blue diamond sold at Sotheby’s Geneva Nov. 19 for $48 million, making it the most expensive gemstone ever sold at auction − and the most expensive per carat: $4 million per carat. The buyer was a Hong Kong businessman named Joseph Lau who named the diamond Blue Moon of Josephine in his daughter’s honor. The same buyer purchased a 16.08 ct. Fancy Vivid pink diamond at Christie’s Geneva the day before (Nov. 18). Both diamonds were graded by GIA.

		At the same Christie’s Nov. 18 sale, a major dealer bought a 50.48 ct. pear-shaped D Fl diamond, graded by GIA, for $7.84 million or $155,264 per carat.

		In addition, a private buyer paid $18 million for the 15.04 ct. Burmese ruby that Christie’s named the Crimson Flame. The gem, which sold in Hong Kong on Dec. 1 to a private buyer, was the highest price ever paid per carat at auction for a ruby.

		A private buyer at Sotheby’s Hong Kong October sale broke the newly set per-carat price for a Kashmir sapphire by paying $242,145 per carat for a 27.68 ct. gem. Another buyer at this sale paid a record $5.2 million for a natural gray pearl necklace, called the Chowdray Pearls.

	The 15.04 ct. Crimson Flame, an exceptionally rare Burmese pigeon’s blood ruby, is the highest price ever paid per carat at auction for a ruby: $1.2 million per carat. Photo courtesy of Christie’s

The year at Sotheby’s New York closed with a $52 million sale that included a 25.87 ct. sugar loaf cut Kashmir sapphire that drew a winning bid of $5.1 million. The Kashmir sapphire easily surpassed the highlight of the sale, a diamond necklace that Van Cleef & Arpels fashioned for Queen Nazli of Egypt in the 1930s, which sold for $4.3 million.

Christie’s finished the year with a $4.3 million bid for the 31.34 ct. D VVS2 Victory Diamond once owned by heiress Florence Gould. The diamond was scheduled to be sold last year with a $5 to $8 million pre-sale estimate, but failed to meet its reserve. At the same sale, a 43.79 ct. D VS1 cushion-shaped Type IIa diamond drew a $4 million hammer price, and a 103.66 ct. diamond graded L VS2 by GIA drew a bid of $3.75 million. A 23.98 ct. Burmese sapphire sold for $1.5 million, nearly double its pre-sale estimate, but the 12.52 ct. Matice Kashmir sapphire did not meet its reserve.

	This four-strand colored natural pearl necklace set a record bid of $5.2 million from an Asian private buyer at Christie’s April 14 auction in New York. Photo courtesy of Christie’s

At Bonham’s Dec. 5 London sale, a pair of Kashmir sapphire earrings (7.92 ct. and 7.96 ct.), nearly doubled their pre-sale estimate, selling for $2.3 million. The 19th century earrings were once owned by an unnamed European princess.

Christie’s closed the spring auction season with a $118 million sale in Hong Kong, the highest total achieved for a sale in Asia. Nearly 90% of the lots offered were sold and prices, while not quite record breaking, were very strong. The top lot was a 120 ct. Burmese ruby and diamond necklace by Etcetera that sold to a private Asian buyer for $13 million.

	Van Cleef & Arpels fashioned this diamond necklace for Queen Nazli of Egypt in the 1930s. Set with more than 600 round and baguette diamonds weighing a total of approximately 217 carats, it sold for $4.3 million. Photo courtesy of Sotheby’s

On May 13 in Geneva, Sotheby’s sold the first ruby to break the $1 million per carat record. The 25.59 ct. Sunrise ruby doubled its pre-sale estimate to achieve a final price of $30.3 million, the highest price ever paid for a ruby at auction. This auction resulted in the highest total ever for a jewelry auction: $160.91 million, nearly $20 million above the previous record. The auction catalog noted the ruby was Burmese, with no evidence of treatment.

The sale also featured an 8.72 ct. GIA-graded Fancy Vivid pink diamond that reportedly was linked to Princess Mathilde Bonaparte, the niece of Napoleon Bonaparte. The cushion cut diamond sold for $15.9 million, or $1.82 million per carat. The diamond had been stored in a bank vault since the end of World War II.

	The Victory Diamond, a D VVS2 emerald-cut diamond ring of 31.34 carats, sold for $4.3 million in late 2015. Photo courtesy of Christie’s

In Hong Kong, Tiancheng International reported its most successful jewelry auction ever on June 14. The sale totaled U.S. $38 million, and included a 25.72 ct. D VS2 heart-shaped diamond that sold for $3.18 million. The diamond was cut from a 67.45 ct. piece of rough.

The market for top gems at auction offered a bright spot in an otherwise difficult year for the industry. More stones such as these will liked come to market in 2016, including some of the major diamonds mined during the previous year. Source: GIA @topic:8


Title: Book Review: The Guy Ladrière Collection of Gems and Rings Abstract: By Diana Scarisbrick, Claudia Wagner, and John Boardman; 320 pp.; hardcover; illus.; publ. by Philip Watson Publishers; 2016; $65.00.

	This book catalogues, for the first time, the world-class collection of antique rings, engraved gemstones, and cameos of Parisian art dealer and collector Guy Ladrière. Cameos and intaglios are the focus and stars of this assemblage of nearly 300 pieces, with sumptuous color photographs of these coveted rare gems. The three co-authors are all well respected authorities in their fields. Diana Scarisbrick is a noted jewelry historian and author of a number of books, including Finger Rings: Ancient to Modern (2006) and Rings: Miniature Monuments to Love, Power and Devotion (2014). Claudia Wagner, a senior researcher at Oxford University’s Beazley Archive, wrote The Marlborough Gems (2009) with Sir John Boardman, the third co-author of this book. Boardman is Emeritus Lincoln Professor of Classical Archaeology and Art at the University of Oxford. He also authored Greek Gems and Finger Rings (2001), The World of Ancient Art (2006), and Greek Art (2012) among other titles.

	Scarisbrick’s introduction gives the reader a glimpse into Guy Ladrière’s world and his passion for engraved stones. She tells the story of how this Parisian dealer of Old Master paintings and sculpture became fascinated with engraved gemstones during a research period at the Louvre. From this initial spark came a thirst for knowledge on the topic of ancient intaglios and cameos. He studied museum collections in France, Austria, England, and Italy. Ladrière came to realize that the art form was worth collecting no matter the era in which it was created, and over the years he acquired these small sculptures from many time periods. This catalog shows the wide range of high-quality historical gems that Ladrière has assembled, including Roman rings, medieval intaglios, Renaissance cameos, eighteenth century brooches, and more.

	The first chapter, entitled “In The Round,” focuses on stones carved as full three-dimensional sculptures. There are ten stones in this chapter, dating from the late 1st century to the 19th century. The first piece in this chapter is an exquisitely carved portrait of Queen Elizabeth I, crowned with a lion skin of Hercules, as the mythological queen Omphale. Elizabeth encouraged allegorical portraits of herself for political purposes, and the lion skin of Hercules represents the power to fight evil. This piece is carved from a red and lilac agate, and dates from the late sixteenth century. A classical bust of a man (possibly the Roman emperor Domitian) wearing a scale corselet or breastplate, is carved in turquoise with intricate detail. Dating from the late first century, this small sculpture emulates the large marble busts of Roman emperors in military armor, but on a miniature scale. The classical theme is seen in other small carvings as well, such as an eighteenth century chrome chalcedony bust of Jupiter Serapis, with his long hair and beard and modius on his head, and a chrysoprase bust of Hippocrates, the father of medicine and science, circa 1820. An unusual sardonyx from the late sixteenth/early seventeenth century, carved with three grotesque heads, is photographed in beautiful detail. It was mounted later with a gold and amethyst snake style hinges and pendant ring. The large noses and full lips give each face its own character. Stones like these, according to the text, were originally inserted into the handles of daggers.

	“Cameos” is the largest chapter, filled with some of the most beautiful cameos this reviewer has seen in any collection. They are carved from a wide variety of stones such as sardonyx, carnelian, and turquoise. Some are set as brooches or stickpins or set in gold rings; one example is carved from a ring made out of one piece of red amber. The majority of the cameos are heads in profile, some in very high relief but a few in three-quarter view. One from the late eighteenth/early nineteenth century, called just “The Head of a Youth,” is unique because it is not a full profile. The subject actually is turning his head slightly away from the viewer, and his high relief ear is at the center of the composition, a unique twist on the traditional pose. A portrait of Alexander the Great with Ammon horns in yellow and white onyx is mounted in a brooch with four tourmalines. The piece has an elegant classical style with golden locks of hair carved from the yellow onyx. There are no fewer than eleven Medusa head cameos in this section, dating from first century Rome through the Victorian period. A popular classical motif, Medusa with her hair writhing with snakes is represented in red carnelian, agate, turquoise, and light blue chalcedony.

	The mountings used are almost as beautiful as the cameos themselves. A portrait bust of Louis XIII in yellow and red sardonyx is framed in a seventeenth century frame of pearls, diamonds, and enameled palmette panels. On the opposite page is a high relief sardonyx of an African man with a gold and diamond diadem in a gold stickpin. In a section on figural cameos, there is a Renaissance revival pendant with elaborate enameled designs set with emeralds, pearls and diamonds. The sardonyx cameo is of Ganymede with Jupiter as an eagle seated on rocks. The chapter ends with animal cameos, including a charming rhinoceros from the sixteenth century depicting the “Marvel of Lisbon,” a famous rhino that arrived at the Portuguese court in 1577.

	The chapter on intaglios focuses on concave engravings, which differ from raised convex carvings associated with cameos. The majority of the intaglios are set in signet rings or seals. Used for centuries to personalize documents, these gems were pressed into wax to make the mark of the owner or originator of the document. This book shows not only the photo of the intaglio gem in its setting, but also the wax impression it makes in a black and white photograph. This allows the reader to see some details of the design that are difficult to see just looking at the engraved gem. A first century ring, with an intaglio head of a Roman man carved in a ruby, shows the profile of a man wearing a laurel wreath, similar to the one that first inspired the collection.

	Ladrière’s collection of rings is wide ranging. The “Rings” chapter starts with Greek and Roman rings, and then moves to the Middle Ages with Merovingian, Lombardic, and Byzantine pieces. Engraved gold signet rings and intaglio stones are testaments to the time and culture in which they were made. It is a history of early Western rings all in one collection.

	One of the most beautiful pieces in the collection is in the “Christian Subject” chapter. A rock crystal plaque made in Rome around 1530–40, depicts the flagellation of Christ, who is bound to a Roman column. The plaque is etched in amazing detail and in typical classical Renaissance perspective. The architecture and all the figures depicted are classical ideal proportions, and depth is created with a strong linear perspective, as seen in the paintings from that period. Despite the cracks and chipping that have accrued over the centuries, it is still a masterwork of the engravers’ art.

	This book would be a wonderful addition to the library of art historians, jewelry enthusiasts, or anyone who has a passion for beautifully engraved gemstones. Source: GIA @topic:6


Title: Books: Geology of Gem Deposits, Second Edition Abstract: By L.A. Groat (ed.), 405 pp., paperback, illus., publ. by The Mineralogical Association of Canada, 2014, US$60.00.

              This edition of Geology of Gem Deposits, compiled by the Mineralogical Association of Canada, is a collection of technical papers accompanying the short course of the same name that was originally offered in Canada in 2007 and recently held in February 2014 during the gem shows in Tucson, Arizona. The quality of the papers is on the level of those found in scientific journals, addressing an audience knowledgeable about fundamental geologic principles and how they pertain to gem materials.

Each chapter consists of a fully developed technical paper that covers a specific gem material or topic relevant to the audience. For example, the first chapter, which deals with diamond, investigates crystal morphology based on crystallization conditions, implications of δ13C in relation to crystallization environment, and the effects of geologic setting on growth, nitrogen aggregates, and diamond type, among other topics. The subsequent chapters are no less technical, exploring geologic conditions at crystallization, tectonic emplacement, isotopic data for origin and dating purposes, and geothermobarometric techniques for various gem materials, including corundum, beryl, chrysoberyl, topaz, and jade. Some of the graphics could benefit from updating, but the images are generally well done and complement their respective papers appropriately. Chemical data is collected through a variety of methods, depending on the material being discussed and the purpose for chemical analysis, and uses both basic and very advanced testing techniques. Discussions of geologic setting and principles assume a knowledgeable audience. Consequently, the subject material trends on the more technical side, and is not recommended for the casual gem hobbyist. The content will, however, appeal to the geologist seeking context for these gem minerals.

Straying from the general theme of most of the papers in this collection, which focus on a single gem or narrow group of gems, the final chapter is an overview of gem materials found in Canada. Since this is a Canadian publication, this is a fitting end to the collection. “Coloured Gemstones from Canada” is divided by gemstone and then subdivided by locality. Field reports from some of these localities would be an interesting addition to a future edition. Otherwise, the papers are of generally good quality and appropriate to the title of the collection. For the geologically minded, this is a useful compilation of technical papers covering a wide variety of gem materials. Source: GIA @topic:1


Title: Pardieu Shares Tales of Afghan Gem Exploration Abstract: Change your look: grow a beard, dress like a local, take off your glasses.

Get a reliable local contact to be your guide.

And, most importantly, find a way to connect with the people you meet along your journey.

These are some of the precautions Vincent Pardieu, supervisor of field gemology for GIA, takes when he travels to Afghanistan to learn more about the rubies, emeralds and sapphires mined in this rich gem-producing country. He shared these tips – along with the fascinating history of gem trading on the Silk Road (the ancient route from Asia to the Middle East) and the consequences of multiple wars and politics in Afghanistan – with students and staff in Carlsbad recently.

Pardieu often travels directly to the source to verify the origin of gemstones, including observing and photographing mines and mining techniques, collecting reference samples and GPS data, and documenting his findings in expedition reports. His work is critical in order for GIA to provide origin determination reports, particularly for rubies, sapphires and emeralds.

Pardieu’s journeys may be risky, but he clearly thrives in an environment that enables him to tap into his love of travel, gemstones and learning the stories of the people he meets along the way. He has traveled to Afghanistan five times since 2006, collecting thousands of samples for GIA research.

He said he makes an effort to blend in – the clothes, the beard, etc. – and always travels with people he knows who can provide him with reliable local contacts.

“If you make a mistake on a stone, you maybe will lose a little money,” he said. “If you go to a country you don’t know and you make a mistake on a person – or you get associated with the wrong person – then it starts to be scary,” he said.

Afghan miners have been selling gemstones to foreigners for generations, Pardieu added. “They like foreigners because they bring them some money.”

It’s the people sitting at the next table for lunch, or the ones you meet along the road you have to be careful of, he said, noting that the return from a gem mine is often more dangerous than getting there.

“If you get noticed, you might get ambushed on the way back,” he said.

The first step Pardieu and his team make when they reach the village closest to the mine they want to go to is to meet with the elders. This could take some time, as they are often extremely curious about visitors and skeptical about their intentions. The elders have the final say on whether or not they can go to the mine.

“You have to find a way to connect with the people, then they will help you,” he said. If they are hunters and you like to hunt, make that connection. Use whatever clue you pick up on. “If you can’t find a way to make a connection, you are in trouble.”

Rubies from Jegdalek
Pardieu traveled to Afghanistan’s Jegdalek mines twice, once in 2006 and again in 2010, but was not able to see any mining activity on either trip. The first time the mines were closed by the government, and the second time his group was being watched by an unknown man on another hilltop and the team decided to turn around.

He was able to get ruby samples from the mine owner – after five hours of lunch, tea and questions about his life. Though a little taken aback by the amount of time he had to talk about himself before he could buy gems, Pardieu said miners are hungry for news of any kind.

Emeralds from Panjsher
Pardieu, curious why only small emeralds seemed to come out of Afghanistan’s Panjsher mines, wanted to “see with his own eyes” why. He visited the Panjsher Valley and found hundreds of mines carved into a large vein located 1,000 vertical meters above the closest village. He also learned a lot about the way the mines operate.

The miners “race around underground,” trying to be first to blast their way to the good spots, he said. Whoever gets to a tunnel first wins – or owns – that tunnel.

“There is always one guy listening on the wall to find out where the others are working,” he said. “When there is no more noise, it means they are going to blast and you need to run. If they break into your tunnel, you win – but you have to survive the blast to win.”

Buying explosives is difficult for miners in Afghanistan, so they make their own by adding farm fertilizer to munitions left behind when the Soviets bombed the valley in the 1980s. This explains the small emeralds, Pardieu said. The shock waves from these explosives damage most of the production.

“It’s all about finding the emerald that survived the blast,” he said.

Sapphires from Badakhshan
Working at the GIA lab, Pardieu found that sapphires from the Badakhshan area had inclusions of tourmaline. Until then, he had only known of this type of sapphire from Kashmir. So he set off to the mines to investigate.

He and his team were not physically able to get to the sapphire source because access is extremely limited. The path to the mine, located on a cliff 1,000 meters above a lapis lazuli mine, is unstable and accessible only from 3-9 a.m. for two months in the summer. Once the sun shines on the cliff, rocks fall down and it becomes very dangerous.

He was able to buy 10 kilos of rough in matrix – including mica, tourmaline and sapphire – for study.

Pardieu’s Last Tip:
Never forget to wish the miners good luck, Pardieu advises. Two hours after he left the Panjsher Valley emerald mine, the miners hit a deep pocket.

“If they find some stones after you leave, they will be very happy when you come back,” he said. Source: GIA @topic:7


Title: Gem Carver Captures True Nature of Animals Abstract: Patrick Dreher, a master gem carver from Idar-Oberstein, Germany, spoke to students in Carlsbad in February 2015 about his family’s history in the industry and his techniques for carving intricate, lifelike animal sculptures. Photo by Kevin Schumacher/GIA

                      Patrick Dreher sees more than just beauty when he looks at a gem.

A piece of strawberry quartz is really a starfish. Jasper is a toad. Smoky quartz is a mouse.

At least, that’s what they become.

Dreher – a fifth-generation gem carver from Idar-Oberstein, Germany – shared how he transforms rough stones into intricate lifelike animal carvings with students at GIA’s campus in Carlsbad, California. He also described his family’s history in one of the world’s major cutting and carving centers.

Dreher began his presentation with an overview of the 600-year gemstone carving tradition in Idar-Oberstein and briefly discussed his family’s work for design house Fabergé.

“It’s very important in Idar-Oberstein to have a long family legacy,” Dreher said. The Dreher family is one of the oldest gem-carving families, he said. “We are five generations – I learned from my father, he learned from his father, and his father.”

Dreher specializes in carving his animal figures from one stone, rather than as a piece of composite work, in which different stones are used in the same piece. He has carved the same animals many times, he said, but each time the position, color or expression is different. Many of the gems he uses have different colors throughout the stone so he works slowly and follows the colors. “You can’t see through the stone so you don’t know what is beneath,” he said.

Dreher uses a spindle and other tools so he can move the stone fluidly and comfortably with his hands as he carves. He shared photos of rough gems and his finished work to illustrate his vision and process.

He encouraged students to ask questions at the end of his presentation. When a student asked him his favorite gem to carve, Dreher responded without hesitation: Brazilian agate. But when asked his favorite animal, he took more time to answer: the mouse, but he also likes hippos and toads.

“Mice and toads require the most carving detail,” Dreher said. “They’re really funny objects and require a lot of work.”

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 Students were eager to learn more about his carving process – how long it takes to carve each piece, how he creates such realistic-looking pieces and how he decides what type of animal to carve.

Dreher and his father produce about 12 to 20 carvings each year. He said there is a long waiting list for their pieces and that each can take from 100 to 400 hours to complete. He added that one of the most important parts of his work is to research the animals before he begins carving. Dreher has spent hours observing animals in person to study their physical appearance and movements. His extensive understanding of the animals helps ensure the carvings capture their true nature.

The process to determine what type of animal to carve is less scientific. Dreher said he carefully examines the shape, feel and coloring of the rough gem. But ultimately, you must listen to the gem, he said. “The stone will tell you what to make.”

Students had the opportunity to see his work on display as part of a “Generations of Mastery” museum exhibit. More than 20 carvings by Dreher and his father, Gerd Dreher, are on loan to GIA by the Larson family. Bill Larson, owner of Pala International, is a well-known collector and connoisseur of gems, minerals and carvings, and has a large collection of Dreher pieces. The family invited Dreher to visit the U.S. and was influential in organizing his appearance at GIA.

An in-depth article on the Dreher family will be published in G&G later this year.

	Carl Larson, right, introduced Dreher at the student presentation. Larson’s family helped organize the event and loaned the carvings for the museum exhibit. Photo by Kevin Schumacher/GIA Source: GIA @topic:10


Title: 10 Vivid Gems Bring Fall Colors to Life Abstract: View Gallery

Color – the first of the 4Cs – is perhaps the most described characteristic in gems. From bright blues and steely greys to rich browns and fiery reds, gems come in many colors. The Pantone Color Institute, an arbiter of color for designers and fashionistas, selected 10 favorites for its fall 2013 color report. With exotic names like Acai, Samba and Mykonos Blue, these trendy colors are expected to dominate the fall season.

	But we think they look best in gems.

	The photo gallery above brings Pantone’s fall colors to life with gems that represent each shade. Explore vibrant pink sapphire, tourmaline the color of ocean waters and the 2013 color of the year: emerald. Source: GIA @topic:1


Title: Spring into Summer: Gems in Alluring, Vibrant Colors Abstract: Nearly 600 sapphires create the radiant flowers on this blackened gold brooch with tsavorite garnet leaves. This floral creation highlights the 2014 Color of the Year, Radiant Orchid. Gift of Dr. Gary R. and Barbara E. Hansen, photo by Robert Weldon/GIA

                      The Pantone Color Institute – an arbiter of color for designers and aficionados alike – chooses 10 shades for its spring and fall seasonal color reports. Ranging from purple and blue to orange and yellow, the selections for spring into summer 2014 are sure to spark your interest and inform your fashion choices. This year’s chosen colors are a mix of alluring pastels and vibrant neon hues.

Gemologists know that many gems come in a variety of colors, just like many of these Pantone colors can be seen in a variety of gems. From cool blue aquamarines and radiant pinkish purple sapphires to sizzling orange fire opals, explore some of the gems that match this season’s on-point colors in the photo gallery below.

View Gallery Source: GIA @topic:1


Title: Gems for Pantone Colors Spring/Summer 2015 Abstract: When Pantone announces its colors for the year and season, the fashion world takes notice. So does the jewelry industry.

We looked for interesting gems that matched Pantone’s Color of the Year (Marsala) and the other gemstones in the Spring/Summer family. We also went a step further and followed Pantone’s lead by identifying gems that “pair well with” the primary colors of choice.

We’ve done the research. Now get ready to use our finds in your gemological work and jewelry creations.

	Marsala
Leatrice Eiseman, executive director, Pantone Color Institute described it as “hearty yet stylish tone,” and that it “embodies the satisfying richness of a fulfilling meal while its grounding red-brown roots emanate a sophisticated, natural earthiness.” Gem connoisseur can rejoice. There is a wealth of gems that mirror Marsala.

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	Scuba Blue
One of Pantone’s Spring/Summer 2015 colors is Scuba Blue – which “offers a feeling of escape that is reminiscent of a tropical ocean.” It is a soothing hue that conjures lazy days spent on secluded beaches. We dove into gemological waters to find matching gemstones.

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	Lucite Green
Fresh…cool….clarifying – that’s how Pantone describes Lucite Green. It’s a paler shade of green that’s soothing to the spirit. Chrysoprase, tourmaline, and tsavorite are some gemstones that capture this gentler hue.

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	Classic Blue
Called the “anchor of the Spring/Summer 2015 palette,” Classic Blue is said by Pantone to create calmness and to evoke the sea. A number of gemstones mirror the colors of the ocean. Sapphire is a familiar one; benitoite and apatite are two less-familiar ones.

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	Tangerine
Pantone says Tangerine is “spontaneous,” “energizing” and “friendly.” The gem world is filled with beautiful options that fit the description. These stunning stones make for colorful center stones in statement pieces.

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Now that you know some of the gems that match up with the Pantone 2015 Spring and Summer colors, you can create and sell matching jewelry with greater confidence. As the days shorten, look for GIA to provide suggestions to Pantone’s Fall and Winter colors. Source: GIA @topic:1


Title: Gem-TV in China: Overview and a Shanghai Case Study Abstract: Yellow diamonds are a best seller for Rico Gems, which offers the “Sun Flower” series of fancy yellow diamond jewelry on TV. The Rico team designed and manufactured the entire series. Courtesy Rico Gems.

Introduction and Brief History
In the United States, the Home Shopping Network (HSN) launched its first national television shopping program on July 1, 1985. At the time, television in China was still considered a luxury product, affordable only for families with more financial power. A black and white TV could easily cost 400 RMB—about US$65, or a one-year salary for the average factory worker at the time. However, by the time color TV entered the Chinese market in the late 1980s and early 1990s, it was more widely affordable. The Chinese soon adopted the U.S. concept of TV shopping.

China’s first TV shopping program was launched in 1992 by Guangdong Pearl River TV and Guangdong TV. The stations themselves collected the products and also created their own promotional videos. This first try was very successful. Then, Beijing’s first TV shopping company was established in 1995. It was initiated by Beijing TV (BTV) but was run independently. The company played the role of middleman between suppliers and end consumers. Within two years, its sales had reached 200 million RMB (about US$32 million).

Distribution of TV Shopping  Networks in China

TV shopping network coverage has been increasing in China since the 1990s. Eastern China is covered by multiple layers of networks, while western China is still open. Map adapted from Zeng, 2012 (http://meijiezazhi.com/zt/yw/2013-02-25/11897.html).
In 2003, Shanghai Media Group Ltd. (SMG) signed a joint venture agreement with the CJ Home Shopping Co. of Korea. Investment by both parties formed a new company called SMG-CJ Home Shopping Co., Ltd. The new company sells its products through its TV network, company website, and a catalog. All three outlets share suppliers, management, and a ground transportation system. At the beginning, SMG-CJ covered only the Shanghai area. It now serves the entire country, with subgroups in various cities.

	SMG-CJ is one of the most successful TV shopping networks in China. It has expanded
	beyond serving only the Shanghai area and now serves all of China. Consumers can
	place orders anytime on the company website.
When the live home-shopping program produced by SMG-CJ began on April 1, 2004, it aired every night from 8:00 pm to 1:00 am and was watched by over 3.5 million families. In November 2004, the company launched its website (http://tv.ocj.com.cn/) and started taking orders online. The company’s product catalog debuted in January 2005 and was mailed to more than 250,000 families.

Today, the company’s Shanghai home-shopping channel is live 24 hours a day, 7 days a week. Since the end of 2008, SMG-CJ has been a leader in the TV marketing of gold jewelry, diamonds, diamond jewelry, automobiles, and real estate.

In 2013, a team from GIA visited Shanghai and interviewed Mr. Shen Cheng, founder and CEO of Rico Gems, a gem and jewelry supplier for the SMG-CJ home-shopping channel. Shen generously shared with us his experience with—and insight into—Gem-TV in China.

Rico’s Shanghai Experience
After operating in the U.S. for around 20 years, Shen brought his brand back to mainland China in 2012. He did this at the suggestion of many of his friends in China and also because he recognized the unlimited potential of the Chinese gem and jewelry industry. Rico Gems specializes in high-end diamond and colored stone jewelry, serving customers with a wide range of products. The company has its own jewelry designers and manufacturer. Along with its successful collaboration with the SMG-GJ home-shopping network, it operates a store in Shanghai.

In addition to diamonds, Rico Gems also offers rare colored stones and is dedicated to promoting colored stone designs as wedding jewelry in China. This ring is a design from the “Forever Love” series of pink sapphire jewelry. Courtesy Rico Gems.
According to Shen, his TV shoppers are mainly affluent women, 30 to 50 years old. Most are middle class, but some are ultra-wealthy and can spend millions of dollars on rare pink diamonds without too much hesitation.

Middle-class consumers consider many factors before finalizing a purchase. Many regard a diamond purchase as an investment, in hopes that the price will keep going up. Some consumers buy wedding rings for their children who are not planning to get married for several years, considering it a way to save money. Impulse purchases are a foreign concept to middle-class consumers in China.

	Gem-TV Consumers

Shen targets a specific group of consumers by selling only diamonds over one carat in size through the TV-shopping network. The presenters spend about half an hour describing and promoting an item, and consumers have about the same amount of time to make a purchasing decision. Only a limited quantity of goods is offered at each show. A record for SMG-CJ was the sale of three two-carat fancy yellow diamonds (about US$40,000 each) within seconds of each other. Rico sells the faceted diamonds and usually provides the mountings for free. Sometimes the customer also receives a ruby or emerald as a free gift. It’s a practice that works very well with Shanghai consumers, Shen says, and contributes to a customer satisfaction rate of 100 percent.

	Selling on Gem-TV

Shanghai is a very special city, one of the earliest open ports in China. People in Shanghai have grown accustomed to accepting new ideas from the rest of the world. The concept of TV shopping was borrowed from the Western world, and Shanghai consumers have embraced it as part of their everyday lives. Jewelry consumers have high confidence in TV shopping and the purchase of expensive products. Compared to Shanghai, jewelry consumers in other cities usually spend much less on each purchase.

Gem-TV Advantages for China’s Consumers
Unlike the Western world, Chinese television is under strong central-government control, and no private stations exist. China’s consumers see this as an advantage that makes TV purchases more trustworthy than purchases through other outlets. They feel that government control allows them to resolve any problems they might have—if they buy from a store, there’s no guarantee that the store’s location won’t change without notice, leaving them without recourse.

Another advantage Gem-TV offers the Chinese consumer is price control. Rapid economic growth in China has raised land and property values, especially in cities like Beijing, Shanghai, and Guangzhou. Skyrocketing rents have forced store owners to increase their retail prices to ensure profits. Gem-TV’s suppliers are able to keep their rent costs low, making it easier to price their jewelry at a level that more consumers can afford. Also, consumers can easily compare prices before purchasing. In one of Rico’s TV shows, the price offered for a one-carat fancy yellow diamond was only about one-third of its market price.

	Building Consumers’ Trust

Very strict control of suppliers and products helps Gem-TV gain consumer trust. For example, under rules set by SMG-CJ, the diamonds that Rico offers on TV have to carry two grading reports, one issued by GIA and the other by the National Gem and Jewelry Testing Center (NGTC) of China. If the grades on the two reports don’t match, the diamonds can’t be offered on TV. This might be a challenge for the suppliers, but it gives consumers more confidence in a purchase, especially with a more expensive stone.

	Gem-TV Pricing

Last but not least, consumers usually get more information from a TV presentation than they do in a retail store. Shen says that SMG-CJ live shows are about thirty minutes long, and the time is used to describe and promote a featured item in detail. The description is very specific, and the presenter gives the item a more organized and comprehensive introduction. It also ensures that all consumers get the same information. Consumer feedback often indicates that they learn more from the TV shows than they do in retail stores.

	The Market’s Future Potential
Sales through TV home-shopping networks account for about eight percent of total sales in the U.S., about 12 percent in Korea, and only about 0.3 percent in China. Even with a steady net increase of about 12 billion RMB (about US$2 billion) over the past five years, China’s TV-shopping sales percentage is still extremely low compared to other large economies. There is plenty of room to grow for this specific retail channel.

Sales from TV network shopping have continued to increase over the past five years. They reached about 70 billion RMB (about US$12 billion) in 2013.
China’s TV shopping channels are permitted to operate their own websites, giving consumers easy access to product information and more flexibility when placing orders. Some channels increase consumer access to their products by operating their own retail stores. Social networks are also very important sales channels in China. Many people who sell through social networks convert friends to consumers and vice versa.

In the future, business owners will benefit more from combining multiple sales channels than from relying on a single one. In 2014, the Shanghai TV-shopping network decided to focus on developing its own mobile shopping application to go along with traditional sales channels. Mobile shopping is gaining tremendous momentum due to the younger generation’s increasing attachment to mobile devices rather than TV or retail stores. More and more jewelry brands recognize this change and consider mobile sales a new growth point.

As China’s most popular social media network, Wechat has over 600 million users globally. Many brands and individual sellers promote and sell their products through this medium. Photo by Tao Hsu
In 2014, surveys showed that local consumers preferred buying jewelry and collectibles from TV networks, accounting for as much as 30 to 40 percent of total retail sales. As long as the TV shopping networks can maintain consumer confidence, sales will continue to increase. Shen notes that current Chinese consumers spend heavily on traditional collectibles and household goods. Many have not yet realized the investment potential of gemstones. With more education and promotion, more investment will be directed to the gem and jewelry market.

Today, the major TV-shopping networks are all clustered in more-developed cities. As urbanization continues, people who live in lower-tier cities will become potential home shoppers. As the markets in first-tier cities become saturated, lower-tier cities offer the most growth potential. Source: GIA @topic:8


Title: Liddicoatite: Vibrant Gem Honors Father of Modern Gemology Abstract: Most liddicoatite comes from Madagascar, including this slice from the Anjanabonoina pegmatite. Coutresy Harvard Mineralogical Museum, photo by Robert Weldon/GIA

                      Liddicoatite – a calcium-rich lithium tourmaline – is revered for its complex color zoning that often displays several vibrant colors. The common trigonal pattern comes to life when the gem is fashioned as polished slices that highlight the characteristic red, purple, green and yellow hues of this striking gem. Multicolored zoning – what gemologists refer to as parti-colored – occurs when the trace elements change in concentration or composition during a crystal’s growth.

First recognized as a separate mineral in 1977, liddicoatite was named in honor of Richard T. Liddicoat (March 2, 1917 – July 23, 2002), the second president of GIA who is often referred to as the “Father of Modern Gemology.” Dr. Pete J. Dunn and his colleagues from the U.S. National Museum of Natural History identified liddicoatite as a distinct mineral and chose the name in recognition of Liddicoat’s many contributions to gemological knowledge and education, including his creation of the International Diamond Grading System and its well-known and universally recognized scales for measuring the color and clarity of diamonds.

Liddicoatite – along with elbaite, dravite, uvite and schorl – is one of the major tourmaline species. Its appearance is similar to elbaite, and it can only be distinguished through chemical analysis. Most known liddicoatite comes from the Anjanabonoina pegmatites in central Madagascar.

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Title: Trade Fair & Play Fair, Says Gem Trade Abstract: Consumer confidence and globalization have led to increasing public awareness of how goods are manufactured and where they are sourced. The article discusses how the colored gemstone industry is taking steps to create conditions that are fair and decent for miners and others involved in the industry, just as the global diamond industry has done through the Diamond Development Initiative and the Kimberley Process. The Fair Trade Gems project was launched by the Columbia Gem House, the first jewelry industry company to join the Fair Trade movement. The Quality Assurance and Fair Trade Gems Protocols created by this project were designed to increase the standard of living for the miners and gem cutters and also promote environmental protection, fair labor practices, and health and safety standards. Protecting the quality and integrity of the product is an important feature of the Fair Trade Gems program, which extends protections to consumers, who deserve to know exactly what they are buying.

Abstracted by Michele Kelley Source: GIA @topic:9


Title: Poudretteite: A Rare Gem Species from the Mogok Valley Abstract: In 2000, an unfamiliar gemstone was purchased in Mogok. It subsequently proved to be the rare borosilicate poudretteite, a mineral that previously had been identified only as tiny crystals from Mont Saint-Hilaire, Quebec, Canada. This article presents a complete gemological description of this unique gemstone and furthers the characterization of this mineral by advanced spectroscopic and chemical analytical techniques. Source: GIA @topic:2


Title: Gem-Quality Haüyne from the Eifel District, Germany Abstract: Haüyne is a rare mineral and an extremely rare gemstone. Recently, the authors studied a large number of faceted haüynes from the Eifel district of Germany. The R.I. and S.G. data were consistent with those reported in the literature, and the samples’ identity was confirmed by Raman spectrometry, with the key maxima at 543 and 988 cm-1. EDXRF analyses revealed potassium and iron, as well as the major and minor elements expected in haüyne. Although mineral inclusions were uncommon, apatite and augite were identified, and negative crystals (often surrounded by healed fractures) were seen in approximately one-third of the stones. Short needles and fine, dust-like particles were present in about half the samples. Paraffin wax was identified in some open fissures. Source: GIA @topic:1


Title: Sapphires from Antsiranana Province, Northern Madagascar Abstract: Since 1996, large quantities of yellow to blue sapphires have been recovered from alluvial deposits derived from basaltic rocks in northern Madagascar. The crystal morphology, internal growth patterns, mineral inclusions, absorption spectra, and trace-element contents of these northern Madagascar sapphires are typical of “basaltic-magmatic” sapphires. Comparison of the properties of these sapphires to those of sapphires from different basaltic sources reveals no significant differences. The northern Madagascar sapphires are distinct from those from Andranondambo, a skarn-related deposit in southeastern Madagascar. Source: GIA @topic:2


Title: Some Gemological Challenges in Identifying Black Opaque Gem Materials Abstract: Among the most difficult gems to identify are those that are black and opaque (or nearly so). In general, any gem material can be opaque because of inclusions, any black opaque material can be fashioned, and any porous material can be dyed. Thus, to identify a black opaque material, every possible mineral, and many rocks and manufactured substances, must be considered. Microscopic appearance, refractive index, specific gravity, and other properties (such as magnetism or radioactivity) provide useful clues, but in most cases advanced identification techniques (X-ray diffraction, EDXRF spectroscopy) are necessary, and even these may not be conclusive. Black opaque pyroxenes, amphiboles, and spinel-group minerals are especially challenging to identify. Source: GIA @topic:1