Title: Possible Natural Abalone Shell Blister Abstract: Figure 1. This intriguing abalone sample, shown in three different orientations, weighed 3.00 ct and measured 10.73 × 8.82 × 6.23 mm. Photo by Diego Sanchez.
An intriguing item was sent by KC Bell to GIA’s Carlsbad laboratory for examination. Mr. Bell stated that it was found among a group of natural abalone pearls off the coast of Southern California in the Pacific Ocean. The sample (figure 1) weighed 3.00 ct, measured 10.73 × 8.82 × 6.23 mm, and was appealing because “pearl” layers appeared to have formed around a piece of rock. However, its natural or cultured origin and the mollusk species that produced it needed to be determined.
The sample consisted of two main components: an opaque dark body and a translucent cap formed of nacreous layers. The main body looked like a stone with a typical angular baroque shape expected of unfashioned natural material. The exposed areas exhibited a bumpy surface texture, and a strong fiber-optic light revealed a dark greenish bodycolor and some black areas of a different composition. Subsequently, Raman spectroscopic analysis with an 830 nm diode laser verified the dark greenish body was composed of a rock-forming feldspar mineral when the spectrum was matched with the RRUFF mineral database (RRUFF-R040129).
The thin layers partially covering the stone displayed vibrant blue, green, and purple-pink hues. At higher magnifications, a fine platelet structure was clearly visible, together with a characteristic underlying botryoidal-like structure that has been observed through the translucent surface layers of many abalone pearls (Fall 2015 Lab Notes, pp. 319–320). Raman analysis of the surface layers using a 514 nm argon-ion laser revealed peaks at 701, 705, and 1085 cm–1, proving the nacre was composed of aragonite. In pearl testing, the higher excitation power of this laser is generally used in the identification of calcium carbonate polymorphs as well as natural pigments or artificial coloring agents. The 830 nm laser is used to obtain spectra in some situations, such as when high fluorescence is encountered with the 514 nm laser.
Energy-dispersive X-ray fluorescence (EDXRF) analysis showed that the nacreous surface layers contained low levels of manganese and confirmed a saltwater origin. Moreover, 221 ppm of iodine was detected, typical of many abalone shells and pearls since abalone is an iodine-rich organism (H.S. Doh and H.J. Park, “Speciation of bio‐available iodine in abalone (Haliotis discus hannai) by high‐performance liquid chromatography hyphenated with inductively coupled plasma‐mass spectrometry using an in vitro method,” Journal of Food Science, Vol. 83, No. 6, 2018, pp. 1579–1587). GIA has often detected iodine in abalone samples examined (Fall 2015 Lab Notes, pp. 319–320). Surface observation and chemical data confirmed that the nacre layers were produced by a univalve abalone gastropod (Haliotis genus), allowing us to confidently identify the mollusk species. Furthermore, EDXRF analysis of the rock surface revealed that it was composed of sodium-rich feldspar.

Figure 2. The overlying nacre tightly conformed to the underlying rock’s surface, and a small opening was visible on the face, exposing the material beneath. A translucent brown layer between the two main components is possibly an organic substance, likely conchiolin. Photomicrograph by Artitaya Homkrajae; field of view 7.19 mm.
Closer examination of a small surface opening on the face of the sample (figure 2) and the edge of the nacre where it did not cover the underlying rock (figure 1, center and right) revealed a tight connection between the two main components. No gas bubbles or other features such as flow lines indicating an artificial bonding agent were observed in the translucent brown layer between them. The brown layer appeared to be an organic substance—likely conchiolin, an essential natural substance secreted by mollusks during the formation of pearls, blisters, and shells. The internal structure revealed by real-time X-ray microradiography (RTX) supported the observational findings that the thin nacreous overgrowth adhered to the rock’s surface in all directions and did not appear to have formed from any culturing process (figure 3).

Figure 3. RTX images of the sample’s face (left) and side (right) revealed that the thin nacre layer conformed very well to the underlying stone’s surface.
Abalone are known to produce natural pearls and are also used commercially to produce cultured shell blisters in order to fashion assembled cultured blister “pearls” (mabe). Shell blisters can form naturally when a foreign object accidentally enters the mollusk’s body and becomes trapped in between the shell’s interior surface and the mantle tissue. If the mollusk survives this experience, the cells within the mantle tissue continue to secrete nacre (commonly biogenic aragonite) to increase the layers and cover the intruder, possibly to ease any discomfort. The intruder eventually becomes a part of the inner shell, resulting in a natural shell blister. Based on this formation mechanism and the gemological evidence obtained, this sample appears to be an unusual natural shell blister in which a small piece of rock acted as the irritant that initiated formation. Since abalone mollusks inhabit rocky areas and attach themselves to rocky surfaces, this scenario is not out of the question. Source: GIA @topic:5


Title: Altering the Color of Topaz Abstract: The various techniques in use today to alter colorless topaz to produce brown, pink, and most commonly, blue stones are discussed. Special attention is given to the three irradiation sources -gamma rays, high-energy electrons, and neutrons - used to convert the colorless stones to hues in the yellow to brown range and the subsequent heat treatment required in most cases to turn the irradiated stones blue. The blue color produced by irradiation and subsequent heat treatment is stable to light. Currently, no routine gemological tests are available that can definitively determine whether the color of the topaz is natural or the result of treatment. Source: GIA @topic:3


Title: Iolite Description Abstract: The color of fine-quality iolite can sometimes rival that of sapphire or tanzanite. – Robert Weldon

                      When tanzanite was first discovered, gemologists initially suspected it might be cordierite, a transparent, pleochroic, violet-blue gem known for thousands of years. Today, cordierite (named after geologist Pierre Cordier) is better known by its trade name, iolite, which comes from the Greek word “ios,” meaning “violet.”

Iolite’s strong pleochroism makes the gem tricky to cut for best color. This in turn continues to pose challenges to producers and buyers interested in promoting the attractive yet problematic gem to retailers as an affordable blue-gem alternative.

	In the hands of a skilled cutter, iolite’s beauty can be revealed.
This silicate of aluminum, iron, and magnesium has two distinctive features—a beautiful, violetish blue through slightly violetish blue hue derived from iron and a striking, eye-visible pleochroism. Its pleochroic colors differ with its bodycolor. Iolites that appear violet display light violet, dark violet, and yellow-brown pleochroic colors. Bluish iolites display colorless to yellow, blue-gray, and dark violet pleochroic colors. From some angles, then, a bluish iolite can actually appear completely colorless or yellow, and a violetish iolite can look brown.

Iolites are usually cut as faceted gems, but they are also frequently cut into cabochons.

The size range for a fashioned iolite is anywhere from 1 to 10 carats. Fine iolites over 5 carats are rare.

Iolite falls at 7 to 7.5 on the Mohs hardness scale, but given that it has distinct cleavage in one direction, its toughness is only fair. This makes iolite vulnerable to breakage when set in a ring or other setting exposed to rough daily wear.

Unlike tanzanite, iolite is rarely treated. Fine iolite comes by its beautiful blues and violets naturally. Its freedom from enhancement other than normal cutting and polishing is a selling point when customers consider that most blue gems, from inexpensive blue topaz to fine sapphire, receive routine treatment of one type or another.

	Iolite is not routinely treated, which is an attractive feature for some consumers. – Robert Weldon, courtesy Max Faulkner
Of course, not all iolite shows fine color. Some gems can look grayish or nearly colorless. If the trade were able to treat these less desirable iolites to produce a better, more salable color, it would. However, iolite’s chemistry won’t allow it. Interestingly, the deep blues of some iolites are thought to have the same cause (an iron-titanium charge transfer) as the blue in sapphire. Unlike sapphire, however, iolite can’t be heat-treated to intensify its blue color because its low melting point won’t tolerate the high temperatures to which corundum is routinely subjected.

Because iolite is fairly hard it’s often found in alluvial deposits. In addition to the gem gravels of Sri Lanka, iolite occurs in several areas of Africa, including Kenya and central Tanzania. Other iolite source countries include India, Brazil, and Norway. A significant iolite deposit was discovered in Madagascar in 1994.

Iolite has yet to catch on with retailers as dramatically as tanzanite did in the 1970s and 1980s. Why not? Experts believe that jewelry designers and retailers have yet to see a consistent enough supply of iolite in uniform fine quality to feel confident in ordering a broad and deep selection of the material for their workshops and stores. Source: GIA @topic:2


Title: Cummingtonite Needles Encased by Quartz in a Rhodonite Abstract: Figure 1. A rare 7.38 ct orangy red rhodonite. Photo by Chunyan Wang.

Figure 2. Many long tube inclusions were observed in the rhodonite sample. Photomicrograph by Chunyan Wang; field of view 2.36 mm.
Recently, the authors examined a 7.38 ct gem-quality rhodonite exhibiting a vivid orangy red color and good transparency (figure 1). Gemological testing, Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy, and Raman spectroscopy identified it as rhodonite. This gemstone had a refractive index of 1.733–1.747 and specific gravity of 3.46. Most rhodonite is opaque and is used as an ornamental stone, and transparent facet-grade material is very rare. Microscopic observation revealed an abundance of long, curved needles scattered randomly throughout the gem host (figure 2), consistent with previous studies. Occasional fluid inclusions were also seen.
A previous publication suggests that these curved needles are cummingtonite, an amphibole group mineral with a chemical formula of (Mg, Fe2+)2(Mg,Fe2+)5Si8O22(OH)2 (P. Leverett et al., “Ca-Mg-Fe-rich rhodonite from the Morro da Mina mine, Conselheiro Lafaiete, Minas Gerais, Brazil,” Mineralogical Record, Vol. 39, 2008, pp. 125–130). Raman spectroscopy confirmed the identity of one needle as cummingtonite, displaying characteristic peaks at 190, 667, and 1036 cm–1 when the laser beam was focused on the center of it. However, several new peaks appeared when the laser beam moved to the boundary between the needle and the rhodonite, including a 208 cm–1 peak that matched with quartz. Such a finding is new to the authors, since needle inclusions encased in another mineral have rarely been reported. To further investigate this finding, more than 10 points were selected, and the results identified quartz between the cummingtonite needle and the rhodonite host. All the tested Raman spectra were compared to the Raman online database.

Figure 3. The Raman spectra of cummingtonite, quartz, and rhodonite. While the long tube was identified as cummingtonite, quartz was detected between the tube and the rhodonite host. Spectra are offset vertically for clarity.

Figure 4. 3D false-color Raman mapping of one of the encased needle inclusions with the surrounding host. The rectangle shows the mapping area. The blue area indicates the existence of the rhodonite host, the green area the quartz, and the red area indicates the cummingtonite.
To further explore the relationship between rhodonite, quartz, and cummingtonite needles, a 3D Raman map was performed on a selected area of 3 × 14 × 12 μm with a step size of 2 μm. After running for 17.25 hours, more than 500 spectra were recorded. Three feature peaks were selected for image reconstruction: 3658 cm–1 for cummingtonite, 113 cm–1 for rhodonite, and 208 cm–1 for quartz (figure 3). Due to the similarity between the Raman spectra of cummingtonite and rhodonite, the main peaks were not chosen for mapping. The OH-related peak at 3658 cm–1 was only observed in cummingtonite, enabling us to distinguish the two minerals. The Raman mapping image is shown in figure 4, with blue indicating the host, green for quartz, and red for cummingtonite. These images revealed that the detection of quartz between rhodonite and cummingtonite was not by accident but indicated a considerable presence of quartz inclusions. Previous studies have reported quartz as an isolated and random mineral inclusion in rhodonite from Australia (e.g., P. Millsteed et al., “Inclusions in transparent gem rhodonite from Broken Hill, New South Wales, Australia,” Fall 2005 G&G, pp. 246–254). Based on our observation of the position of the quartz, we speculate that it may be the product of the decomposition of cummingtonite under certain temperatures and pressures.
This intricate inclusion association pattern may offer a new perspective on the origin of curved needles in rhodonite. This case also highlights the usefulness of Raman mapping as a tool for nondestructive analysis of inclusions. Source: GIA @topic:2


Title: New High-Quality Rainbow Moonstone from Madagascar Abstract: A 9.30 ct oval cut and a 4.12 ct triangular cut of a new type of moonstone from Madagascar featuring an orange flash effect. Photo by Robert Weldon; courtesy of Dudley Blauwet Gems.
Moonstone, a perennial favorite in Tucson, was offered both as loose stones and in jewelry throughout the shows. This year, a new type of transparent moonstone from Andilamena in the Alaotra-Mangoro region of northeastern Madagascar displayed a distinct orange flash effect in addition to strong blue adularescence. Moonstone is normally cut en cabochon, but the two moonstones in the figure above were faceted because of their high transparency and to better display the orange flash.
Blue moonstone is a phenomenal gemstone variety of orthoclase, a mineral belonging to the alkali feldspar group. This potassium aluminum silicate gem is transparent to translucent, with a white bodycolor and blue adularescence. The blue “moonlight” is caused by light interference from moonstone’s alternating microscopic layers of albite and orthoclase. Rainbow moonstone, which shows flashes of various colors that can include blue, is also a feldspar mineral but belongs to the plagioclase group and falls into the calcium-rich labradorite variety. This new material was confirmed to be plagioclase feldspar and within the labradorite variety by Bear Williams (Stone Group Laboratories, Jefferson City, Missouri) using Raman spectroscopy, making this a high-quality rainbow moonstone.
This new material was reportedly mined in 2023, and the initial supply of several kilograms of rough sold out at extraordinarily high per-carat prices. Hopefully more of this intriguing material will reach the marketplace soon. Source: GIA @topic:1


Title: “Boldly Go” with a Southwest-Inspired Starship Enterprise Abstract: This handmade piece fuses Southwestern style and its characteristic inlay techniques with a science fiction icon: the Starship Enterprise from Star Trek. Photo by Kevin Schumacher; courtesy David R. Freedland Jr. Designs.

	At the Pueblo (Riverpark Inn) show, David Freedland (David R. Freedland Jr. Designs, Tucson) showed us some unusual pieces that stood out at his booth. Normally, you expect Southwest-style jewelry to embrace nature or Native American influences for pieces featuring detailed inlays of Arizona turquoise and other materials. Although Freedland had these in abundance, what really caught our eye was this handmade, sterling-silver rendition of the Starship Enterprise from the cult science fiction television series Star Trek. The piece measures 6.5 cm in length and stands 4.5 cm high. It rests on a sterling silver stand inlaid with Arizona turquoise (see above).

	The iconic starship’s saucer section is also inlaid with Arizona turquoise and a concentric band of purple spiny oyster centered on a lab-grown white opal representing the bridge. Other oval lab-grown opal cabochons grace the ends of the engine nacelles, and a turquoise cabochon represents the ship’s shuttle bay. The starship portion has a loop and can be detached and worn as a pendant, if desired. Freedland also has another handmade starship available: the “Reliant” from the 1982 motion picture Star Trek II: The Wrath of Khan along with an array of cyberpunk—or steampunk—ray guns that are redolent of classic U.S. science fiction films of the 1950s.

	Freedland told us there’s no other reason behind the considerable time and effort required to hand fabricate these unique pieces except that he’s always liked the idea of space and the unknown—“what’s out there,” as he says. And he thought they would be a lot of fun to make. We hope these designs live long and prosper. Source: GIA @topic:6


Title: Plan a Path to Success Abstract: Kara Erickson, sales manager for Tiffany & Co. in Pasadena, California, at GIA's 2009 Jewelry Career Fair in Carlsbad. Photo by Kevin Schumacher/GIA

                      “Success means something different for everyone,” said Kara Erickson, a 1993 GIA graduate and sales manager for Tiffany & Co. in Pasadena, California, who credits most of her success to her education and many industry mentors. “Recently I’ve realized that success is not status or a title, but a series of choices, hard work and achievements. You can sit around and desire success all day or you can actually do something about it.”

She shared five key concepts she used to build her career with attendees of the 2009 Career Fair in Carlsbad:

1. Create your vision. “Have a vision of your career and what you want to do and what you want to be. You’ll get lost without a map.”

2. Stay focused. You may find yourself on a winding career path, but take advantage of those curves. This path “may lead you to various forks in the road, but it is up to you to make them into opportunities.”

3. Take action. “If you say you are going to do something, do it, follow through. Actions speak louder than words.”

4. Be prepared to make sacrifices. Find ways to overcome obstacles. “Prove to yourself and others that you are ready, willing and able to grow in your career.”

5. Get support. The jewelry industry is a very close-knit community. “The people who make up the industry were once in your shoes.”

Erickson also offered encouragement to the attendees. “Employers are looking for people like you. Not just because you are educated in gems and jewelry, but because you can reinvent the jewelry industry. Everything is at your fingertips. You have already made the choice to be successful and you are in charge of your career.” Source: GIA @topic:9


Title: Applications of Geophysics in Gemstone Exploration Abstract: Advances in geophysical technology and computer imaging now permit mapping of geologic features at various depths beneath the Earth’s surface in more detail than ever before. Geophysical methods, which for some years have been used to explore for diamonds (and many other minerals), also hold promise as important tools in both exploration for new colored stone deposits and assessment of known deposits. Particularly exciting are the use of seismic-reflection and radar-imaging techniques for high-resolution mapping of near-surface pegmatites, veins, metamorphic layering in crystalline rocks, and alluvial deposits in sedimentary rocks. These techniques can produce images of regions only a few centimeters to a few meters in size down to several meters to tens of meters below the surface. Thus, it is now possible to locate directly some buried structures containing gem deposits. Source: GIA @topic:7


Title: 34th International Gemmological Conference Abstract: The 34th IGC was held in Vilnius, August 26–30. Pre- and post-conference field trips visited Lithuanian cultural heritage sites, as well as the historical amber-producing area along the Baltic seacoast. This event takes place every two years, with the 2017 conference scheduled for Windhoek, Namibia. Several oral and poster presentations of interest are summarized here. Abstracts of all presentations can be viewed on the conference website at www.igc-gemmology.net/igc34-proceedings.

Amber was one of several topics presented at the conference. Albertus Bitinas (Klaipeda University, Lithuania) summarized the geologic setting of amber deposits in the southeast Baltic region. The amber originated from pine trees (Pinus succinifera) that thrived during the Paleogene period (65–23.5 million years ago), when the climate of northern Europe was humid. The subsequent flow of rivers redistributed pieces of amber in sediments in this region. Jonas Satkünas (Lithuanian Geological Survey, Vilnius) recounted efforts to document the country’s amber potential. He reported that 2,250 tons were recovered in the 19th century from the Curronian Lagoon along the Baltic seacoast. A recent survey of the lagoon revealed additional amber deposits with potential for development. Amber from Canada has never been seriously considered as a gem material, but Willow Wight (Canadian Museum of Natural History, Ottawa) discussed its importance for entomologists and botanists who have, over the past century, studied the animal and plant life from the Cretaceous period that became trapped and then preserved in the fossilized tree resin. Lore Kiefert (Gübelin Gem Lab, Lucerne, Switzerland) discussed the occurrence of natural green amber near Alem Ketema, Ethiopia. Green amber has been of gemological interest because of concerns that some material in the market is of natural or treated origin. Amber from the Hukawng Valley in northern Myanmar has been known for a millennium. Tay Thye Sun (Far East Gemmological Laboratory, Singapore) described a new amber locality in the Hti Lin township, in the central part of the country. Characterization of this new material demonstrated that it has many features similar to the Hukawng amber.

Thomas Hainschwang (Gemlab Liechtenstein) investigated 20 naturally colored, polycrystalline black diamonds of unknown origin, and one diamond from the Popigai impact crater in Siberia. The samples exhibited photoluminescence features suggesting micro-inclusions of carbon dioxide and lonsdaleite.

In the realm of synthetic diamonds, Hiroshi Kitawaki (Central Gem Laboratory, Tokyo) examined 15 type Ib yellow to brownish yellow synthetic diamonds that had been submitted for grading without disclosure. Visual features and spectroscopic evidence suggested post-growth high-temperature annealing, presumably to alter their color. The means of identifying both small HPHT and large CVD synthetic diamonds was reviewed by Joe Yuan (Taiwan Gemmological Institute, Taipei). Of particular importance for detection are anomalous birefringence (“strain”) patterns, UV fluorescence reactions, and spectroscopic features.

Gem occurrences along the coast of Greenland were discussed by Anette Juul-Nielsen (Ministry of Natural Resources, Nuuk). Small-scale mining of ruby and pink sapphire from Archean metamorphic rocks is currently underway in the Fiskenæsset area. The Greenland government is issuing licenses for both exploration and extraction of mineral resources.

Kentaro Emori (Central Gem Laboratory, Tokyo) discussed the value of three-dimensional plots of chemical composition data to support the country-of-origin determination of ruby and blue sapphire.

Emilie Elmaleh (University of Geneva) presented a study of zircon inclusions in metamorphic-related blue sapphires of sufficient size ( 150 microns) to allow age dating by the U/Pb method and quantitative chemical analysis. While potentially useful for country-of-origin determination, this method may be of more value for rough corundum samples because both techniques require that the zircon inclusion be present at the surface of the sample for analysis.

Hanco Zwaan (Netherlands Gemmological Laboratory, Leiden) investigated a suite of alluvial sapphires from deposits in Montana. Identification of mineral inclusions and geochemical analysis suggest that these sapphires originated in a metasomatic geologic environment.

Karl Schmetzer (Petershausen, Germany) investigated the origin of dual-color double stars in oriented needle-bearing corundum and quartz. The study concluded that the silvery white star is formed by light reflection and scattering, while the body-colored second star originated by the reflection and scattering of light from a layer near the base of the cabochons. The light producing the second star travels twice the distance down and up through the cabochon, undergoing selective absorption. The color of the second star is identical to the bodycolor of the host material.

Visut Pisutha-Arnond (Gem and Jewelry Institute, Bangkok) presented a heat-treatment study of sapphires to understand the role of beryllium in coloration. The researchers concluded that this trace element is made inactive by heating in a reducing environment, and that beryllium-diffusion treatment is only effective by heating under oxidizing conditions.

Walter Balmer (SSEF Swiss Gemological Institute, Basel) explored the presence of infrared bands at 3053 and 2490 wavenumbers as spectral evidence of beryllium diffusion treatment of sapphires.

Ahmadjan Abduriyim (GIA) investigated how residual pressure was distributed three-dimensionally by measuring such pressure around mineral inclusions in natural corundum from the New England sapphire field in New South Wales, Australia.

Shane McClure (GIA) described emeralds from the Belmont mine in Minas Gerais. The operation is the largest and most technologically advanced emerald mine in Brazil. He also followed a large rough emerald through the manufacturing process to create two cut stones (the largest weighing 18.17 ct) that were set in jewelry.

Gemological properties of pallasitic peridot from six different meteorites were presented by Masaki Furuya (Japan Germany Gemmological Laboratory, Kofu). Samples from the different meteorites could be distinguished from one another by inclusions, visible and infrared spectra, and trace element composition.

Roman Serov (Gemological Center, Lomonosov Moscow State University) investigated the heat treatment of green Russian demantoid garnet. Color changes were reversible and detected at heating temperatures as low as 400°C. Heating under reducing conditions was more effective in removing any brown component of demantoid color.

Andy Shen (China University of Geosciences, Wuhan) investigated nephrite jade samples from eight locations in China, using the linear discriminant analysis of trace element composition data as a criterion for determining their geographic origin.

Mining operations in the three main opal-producing areas of Australia—Lightning Ridge, Queensland, and Coober Pedy—were detailed by Karen Fox (Waterloo, Canada). She also explained the geologic conditions that favor opal formation in sedimentary environments.

Emmanuel Fritsch (University of Nantes, France) studied a yellow gem hyalite opal from Mexico with intense uranium-related, daylight-excited green luminescence. This is one of the few gem materials whose color is dominated by luminescence due to the presence of the uranyl ion.

Three gem minerals exhibiting photochromism, all showing a reversible change of color when exposed to ultraviolet radiation—hackmanite, tugtupite, and sodalite—were investigated by Claudio Milisenda (DSEF German Gem Lab, Idar-Oberstein). Within several hours to a day, the transient color reverted to the original color when the samples were exposed to daylight. Source: GIA @topic:1


Title: Searching for Emeralds in Afghanistan Abstract: Afghanistan's Panjshir Valley, home to world-class emeralds. Photo © Andy Lucas

                      GIA field gemologists are a different breed. When Andy Lucas, GIA manager of Field Gemology in Carlsbad, decided to take some vacation time, he didn’t make for the usual destinations. No beaches, ski resorts, or cosmopolitan cities. Lucas instead headed off to Afghanistan, lured by deposits of fine emeralds.

	Emerald Adventuresin Afghanistan

Lucas’ destination was the remote emerald mines of Panjshir Valley. It’s a place where few dealers go, as it’s a difficult trek with its share of hazards. So before setting out, Lucas and his traveling companion, Arthur Groom of Eternity Emerald (who arranged the trip), met with Abdullah Abdullah, a prominent politician. With Abdullah's support, the two set out on their emerald adventure to the Panjshir Valley located on the Panjshir Province.

	Gem trading happens on Chicken Street, which formerly was an antique and poultry market. Photo © Andy Lucas

	Arthur Groom (right) sits across from a gemstone dealer at Kabul’s Chicken Street – the gem trading center of the country. Groom is dividing a parcel of emerald rough by the quality of the gemstones. Photo © Andy Lucas
Rugged beauty and breathtaking vistas were the welcome to Panjshir Valley. The valley’s name means “five lions,” a tribute to five spiritual brothers who once lived there.

“Come as a foe and leave defeated. Come as a friend, and you will find some of the most hospitable and friendly people on the planet,” reflects Lucas about their trip to the Panjshir Valley. “The miners and dealers I traveled with, in fact, were constantly concerned about my welfare,” Lucas recounted with obvious affection.

	The way to travel the rugged, mountainous terrain is by horse. Photo © Andy Lucas
Upon their arrival at the town of Pawat, Lucas started climbing the steep mountain trails in hopes of reaching the emerald mines before dark. After a four-hour hike to the mining area, he arrived at sunset.

	Mountainside homes of the miners. Photo © Andy Lucas
Lucas paints the scene: “A few hundred miners were working at the camp. Most were winding down for the day, but another shift, which worked through the night, was starting. I had a most unusual serenade that evening – the wind whistling through the mountains, punctuated by dynamite blasts from the mines.”

Dinner at the mining camp was a meal of fresh lamb, rice, and Nan-e Afghani, the national bread, baked as it has been for centuries. The next day’s breakfast, says Lucas, was just as tasty: fresh goat milk and more Nan-e Afghani.

	A miner cooking in an open-air kitchen bakes bread for his comrades. Photo © Andy Lucas
Lucas then visited the mining tunnels to watch the mining and ore processing operations. The mining was typical for hard rock deposits – a diesel-powered drill was used to make holes in rock. Charges were placed in them to remove the overburden rock but not to destroy the emeralds – a tricky task!

Once the explosives were detonated, miners returned, removed the rocks, and searched for emerald. Promising rocks were sent to a processing area, where they were broken apart by hand tools and washed using screens.

Lucas noted that emerald mining benefits many: “Like many colored gemstone mines, business people provide the capital to purchase food, equipment, and whatever else is needed to run the operation. Profits are divided between the owners and miners. Many of the owners once were miners.”

	"Pencil" emeralds – named for their shape – mined in the Panjshir Valley. Photo © Andy Lucas
Lucas is now home, incorporating his findings into GIA educational materials. Insights include updated content on the type of gem material coming out of Afghanistan, mining practices, and the nature of the trade. If you’re planning to take the Colored Stones and Gem Identification courses, expect to benefit from Lucas’ travels.

	A Primer on Emeralds from Afghanistan

		Emeralds from Afghanistan can have excellent color – so much so that they “rival any source,” according to Lucas.

		The shape of Afghanistan emeralds can make for a good retention rate, meaning that less stone is lost when they are cut.

		Even small crystals mined in Afghanistan still tend to have rich colors.

		Longer pieces of rough (called pencils because they have a similar shape to one) are often cut into melee and used in fine watches. Source: GIA @topic:1


Title: Distance Education is an Avenue to Embark on a New Career Abstract: What can you do to enhance your chances of staying gainfully employed – either at your current job or a new one? Simply increase your marketability by broadening your knowledge and skills with additional training.

One of the ways you can gain additional training is through continuing education, which can include attending college classes or enrolling in distance education. The latter has become one of the most popular because it allows you to study in your spare time, at your own pace, and in the convenience of your home or office. Distance education is especially suited for busy people who wish to gain additional skills without giving up their current jobs. This “learn-while-you-earn” opportunity distance education offers is popular. For those out of work, enrolling in a distance education course can be a quick and convenient way to train for a new career. It’s also an ideal way for those employed to enhance their skills and become a more valuable employee.

The Wellspring, an online community of distance educators, says the number of distance education programs offered by community colleges and universities across the United States and Canada is “increasing at a phenomenal rate.”

Almost any field of interest imaginable is available via distance education, including architecture, engineering, computer programming and jewelry – to name a few. Each field also contains specialties. For example, positions in the gem and jewelry industry can range from identifying and grading gemstones to designing or manufacturing the latest jewelry, and from selling jewelry to managing a retail jewelry store.

Each of these requires specialized training. GIA (Gemological Institute of America) offers many distance education programs – along with its On Campus programs. The Institute is recognized as a leading educational institution for the gem and jewelry industry. GIA’s Carlsbad campus joined only 17 schools in receiving the Accrediting Commission of Career Schools and Colleges (ACCSC) School of Excellence award for 2011-2012. To qualify for the award, the majority of a school’s programs must meet or exceed a graduation rate of 92% for programs three months or less in length, and 82% for programs from 4-to-6 months in length, and demonstrate an average employment rate of 82%.

“Training for a position in retail jewelry sales via distance education is one of the easiest ways to start a career in the gem and jewelry industry,” says Bev Hori, GIA vice president of Education and chief learning officer. “And opportunities in this field are expected to be plentiful.  A retail jewelry sales position can also lead to a substantial income for top sales professionals, and commissions can add even more to the income.” Source: GIA @topic:9


Title: Potentate’s Montana Sapphire Mine: An Interview with Warren Boyd Abstract: Figure 1. Rough Montana sapphires in a range of colors. Photo by Albert Salvato, courtesy of Potentate Mining.

The history of the American West is told in stories of frontiersmen seeking fortune in gold and other precious metals. It was serendipity when these intrepid adventurers arrived in western Montana and discovered strange, shiny pebbles—sapphires—while looking for gold. Little did they know the gem wealth they had uncovered with the sapphires, which were simply a nuisance to the gold miners at first. More than 100 years later, this legacy of mining is carried on by several small-scale miners across Montana, and with the arrival of Potentate Mining at the Rock Creek sapphire deposit. We had the chance to sit down in Tucson with Potentate’s director of marketing, Warren Boyd, for an update on their mining activities and their plans to find a place for Montana sapphires in the market.
Sapphire mining can be challenging in the rugged Montana terrain. Harsh winters limit the mining season to about six months a year, and even then water shortages can make mining difficult. The year 2017 saw extreme wildfires that forced the mine to be evacuated several times. Despite these challenges, 2018 was Potentate’s third year at full production, yielding more than 100 kg of rough sapphire each mining season. In 2018, the mine commissioned a new processing facility with a larger throughput, which will allow Potentate to process more gravel and produce more sapphires each year. The facility features a gold recovery circuit to recover the fine gold that is produced along with the sapphires. Potentate has also devoted significant resources to protect the beautiful wild areas in which they mine, and a strict rehabilitation program is in place. They are only allowed to disturb five acres at a time, and after rehabilitation there will be little evidence of their mining activities. A water clarifier has also been implemented to purify their processing waters. This is important to protect the pristine trout fishing streams in the area.
The sapphires come in a range of colors (see above), from fine deep blues to fancy yellows, oranges, and pinks, and there are very rare Montana rubies. Some stones come out of the ground with a fine natural color, but the bulk of the production requires heat treatment to bring out these colors. Less than 1% of the sapphires recovered will end up as faceted stones in the 2–6 ct range, with most of the production cutting stones from 0.25 to 0.99 ct. Some extremely large stones have been produced, however. In the last mining season, Potentate recovered a 64.14 ct rough sapphire, the largest gem-quality sapphire ever found in Montana.
Potentate first exhibited at the Tucson shows in 2018, with a booth in the AGTA GemFair. With mining activities proceeding at full speed, Potentate’s focus now is to create market awareness of their commercial-scale production of sapphires, which represents a reliable supply of stones. Their big challenge is not finding a market for their rare large stones, but moving large quantities of small and mid-sized stones. Potentate is building relationships with jewelry manufacturers that have the capacity to find a market for Montana sapphires in the 0.5 ct range. The main markets are in the United States and Canada, but Boyd has seen interest growing internationally as well. Social media has been an important tool for Potentate, and they have started exporting stones to clients in India, Hong Kong, Sri Lanka, and Europe. Montana sapphires have even found a substantial market in sapphire-producing countries such as Australia, where consumers might be looking for their unique pastel colors that are different from those sourced domestically. With their significant investments in mining infrastructure and a clear strategy for getting stones to the market, Potentate Mining could make a substantial impact in the story of Montana sapphires.

	Potentate's Montana Sapphires Source: GIA @topic:7


Title: Natural Blister from Entombment of a Pearlfish Within a Pinctada Maxima Shell Abstract: Figure 1. A natural blister that took the form of a pearlfish on the inner surface of one Pinctada maxima valve. Photo by Jian Xin (Jae) Liao, courtesy of ECIJA.

Pearlfish are marine fish of the Carapidae family that live symbiotically inside various invertebrate hosts. Occasionally, the remains of these fishes may be found completely covered by mother-of-pearl on the inner surfaces of some bivalve mollusks (J. Ballard, “The pearlfish,” African Wildlife, Vol. 45, No. 1, 1991, pp. 16–19). The New York laboratory recently had the opportunity to examine a unique Pinctada maxima shell with a clear blister that took the form of a fish (figure 1). The shell dimensions were approximately 21 × 19 cm, and the entombed fish measured approximately 10 cm in length.

Figure 2. An example of a living pearlfish with a slender, elongated shape and translucent body, found residing inside a P. maxima shell during a 2013 GIA field expedition to Broome, Australia. Photo by Areeya Manustrong.
The P. maxima bivalve’s soft internal body organs are enclosed and protected by the outer shell that is secreted by the mantle to form the beautiful inner nacreous mother-of-pearl layers and the pearls that are familiar to most (P.C. Southgate and J.S. Lucas, The Pearl Oyster, Elsevier, Oxford, UK, 2008, pp. 57–58). The hard surface of the oyster shell and the nooks within the shells provide places where a host of small animals such as pea crabs, shrimp, and fish can live. Pearl gemologists from GIA in Bangkok observed these within numerous P. maxima mollusks during a 2013 field expedition 80 miles off the coast of Broome, Western Australia. The shape and size of an example recorded from the trip (figure 2) closely resembles the one examined by the lab.

There is a delicate harmony and balance between the mollusk and fish in their cohabitation. The pearlfish has been known to settle in the oyster shell for shelter and live in symbiosis without either one harming the other (E. Parmentier and P. Vandewalle, “Morphological adaptations of Pearlfish (Carapidae) to their various habitats,” in A.L. Val and B.G. Kapoor, Eds., Fish Adaptations, Science Publishers, Enfield, New Hampshire, 2003, pp. 261–276). When the pearlfish eventually dies, the oyster cannot eject the organism and its self-healing mechanism kicks into action. The mollusk begins to deposit layers of nacre over the irritant to ease the likely discomfort experienced. The organism decomposes over time and the skeletal remains are left encased underneath the nacre to form a “blister” (GIA and CIBJO definition) on the inner surface of the shell.

Figure 3. Microradiographic image of the pearlfish on the shell revealing the preserved details from head to tail beneath the nacre. Photo by Jian Xin (Jae) Liao.
The microradiographic images obtained for this sample examined by the New York laboratory show the fish’s skeletal remains very clearly (figure 3). This extraordinary specimen is another prime example of Mother Nature’s fascinating manifestations and was something out of the ordinary for everyone who handled and examined it in the laboratory. Source: GIA @topic:5


Title: GSA 2022 Annual Meeting Abstract: Figure 1. GSA 2022 oral and poster presenters. Left to right: Elina Myagkaya, Shiyun Jin, Che Shen, Stephanie Persaud, Roy Bassoo, Rhiana Henry, Alexander Goodsuhm, Rachelle Turnier, Yusuke Katsurada, Mei Yan Lai, Matthew Hardman, Christopher Breeding, Evan Smith, and Peter Heaney. Photo by Robert Weldon.
The Geological Society of America (GSA) held its annual meeting October 9–12 in Denver, Colorado. GIA’s tenth technical session, entitled “Gemological Research in the Twenty-First Century—Gem Materials and Localities,” featured twelve oral presentations and five posters (figure 1), covering broad topics including diamond, sapphire, tourmaline, sunstone, nephrite, and other gem materials.
Colored Gemstones and Other Subjects. The session started with recent research on colored gemstones. Dr. Peter Heaney (Pennsylvania State University, State College) opened with a keynote presentation addressing the structural coloration in colored gemstones that is produced by micro- or nano-structures. This structural coloration results from the interference of nanoparticle inclusions with light waves, including film interference, diffraction grating, scattering, and photonic crystals. Nanoparticles were characterized by a variety of techniques, including scanning electron microscopy (SEM), focused ion beam (FIB), transmission electron microscopy (TEM), and atomic force microscopy (AFM). Dr. Heaney summarized his group’s state-of-the-art research on iridescent gemstones, including three-dimensional photonic arrays of hematite (Fe2O3) nanoneedles, quasi-periodic void layers in goethite (FeOOH), blazed gratings of Brazil twinning in iridescent quartz, and hierarchical oscillation layers in iris agate. Continuing with the topic of structural colorization, Dr. Shiyun Jin (GIA, Carlsbad) investigated the cause of special colors (green, red, and watermelon) and the optical effects of pleochroism in Oregon sunstone. The absorption and scattering power of copper nanoparticles in sunstone was tested with experimental absorption/scattering spectra and modeling based on Maxwell’s equations. By comparing his experimental results and simulations, Dr. Jin concluded that the metallic copper nanoparticles in Oregon sunstone absorb and scatter incident light differently with respect to light polarization, thus yielding various color effects. Che Shen (Munsell Color Science Laboratory, Rochester Institute of Technology) studied the color change in sapphire caused by varying the amounts of six major chromophores (V3+, Cr3+, Fe3+, Fe2+-Ti4+, h-Cr3+, and h-Fe3+). Using chromatic adaptation transformation (CAT), the color of sapphire under daylight and incandescent light were modeled by combining various chromophores. Shen concluded that blue/purple sapphire is caused by Fe2+-Ti4+ and Cr3+, green/reddish brown sapphire by Fe2+-Ti4+ and Fe3+, and pink/purplish brown sapphire by Fe2+-Ti4+, Cr3+, and Fe3+.

Figure 2. Aaron Palke presented the various types of melt inclusions in Montana’s secondary sapphire. James Shigley (seated) moderated the session. Photo by Robert Weldon.
Other oral presentations focused on sapphire formation. Dr. Aaron Palke (GIA, Carlsbad) investigated the multiple types of melt inclusions in Montana’s secondary sapphire, especially silica-rich felsic, sulfide, and polycrystalline melts (figure 2). The presence of multiple types of melt inclusions indicates that these sapphires are of magmatic origin. Further research on Montana sapphire by Alexander Goodsuhm (GIA, Carlsbad) constrained the formation conditions for Montana sapphire using zircon concentrations in rutile inclusions. Zircon concentrations in rutile inclusions ranged from 194 to 1340 ppm using inductively coupled plasma–mass spectrometry. Missouri River sapphire was suggested to form at a higher temperature (~750°C) than Rock Creek sapphire (~660°C). Dr. Rachelle Turnier (GIA, Carlsbad) studied sapphire from Myanmar, Madagascar, and Sri Lanka, pairing photoluminescence (PL) spectra and trace element contents. Dr. Turnier observed that Cr3+ in sapphire is an efficient luminophore with intense red luminescence emission. Chromium in the corundum lattice can overcome high iron concentration and still cause intense luminescence. For example, 3 ppmw Cr3+ and 2500 ppmw Fe3+ can still yield luminescence of 1,000,000 counts/s/mW.
Other colored gemstone studies included beryl (oral), tourmaline (oral), and nephrite (poster). Dr. Rhiana Henry (Earth, Ocean and Atmospheric Sciences Department, University of British Columbia, Vancouver) investigated structural changes in response to chemical composition variation in beryl (Be3Al2Si6O18). Beryl’s crystal structure was analyzed using single-crystal X-ray diffraction (XRD), and chemical composition was acquired via electron microprobe analysis (EPMA). She concluded that beryl’s crystal structure could be calculated using the average ionic radii of the measured cations at the aluminum site (octahedron site) and the beryllium site (one of the tetrahedron sites). Dr. Yusuke Katsurada (GIA, Tokyo) investigated the dominant chromophores (Fe2+ and Cu2+) in cuprian Paraíba tourmaline. Oriented wafers were prepared to collect both o-ray and e-ray ultraviolet/visible/near-infrared (UV-Vis-NIR) absorption spectra. Copper and iron concentrations were measured with laser ablation–inductively coupled plasma–mass spectrometry. This study contributes to the simulation of unpolarized UV-Vis-NIR spectrum and the approximation of copper and iron concentrations in cuprian tourmaline. Ping Li (Tongji University, Shanghai) demonstrated nephrite’s microstructure as an indicator of origin. Nephrite microstructure, including grain size and mineral aggregation, were observed under the petrographic microscope. Nephrites from Xiaomeiling, Maxianshan, and Longxi in China underwent different extents of tectonism and metasomatism.
In recent years, GIA’s Research and Development department has broadened its areas of interest, which was demonstrated in two other presentations. Dr. Matthew Hardman (GIA, Carlsbad) investigated the capability of machine learning to classify treated/untreated and synthetic/natural gemstones. More than 3,000 PL spectra of diamonds and 500 sets of trace element data of pearls were studied using the Boruta statistical algorithm. This approach identified PL peaks at 67.6, 503.2, 524.3, and 575.0 nm as important in identifying the treatment of CVD lab-grown diamond. Using machine learning, Dr. Hardman confirmed that manganese concentration is significant in identifying seawater or freshwater origin in pearls. Dr. Sona Taijiryan (GIA, Carlsbad) presented a poster on the main gem trading routes of the early modern period, from 1500 to 1800 CE. By translating an eighteenth-century manuscript from an Armenian gem merchant in India, Dr. Tajiryan demonstrated the East-West trade routes for the most popular gems in the first half of that century, including Indian diamonds, Southeast Asian rubies and spinels, Colombian emeralds, Sri Lankan pearls, and Mediterranean corals.
Diamonds. Dr. Evan Smith (GIA, New York) investigated a 910 ct type IIa diamond from Lesotho to indicate its formation in the mantle. This type of large and highly pure diamond is commonly known as CLIPPIR (Cullinan-like, large, inclusion-poor, pure, irregular) diamond. Inclusions such as cohenite (Fe3C), troilite (FeS), and metallic Fe-Ni-C-S melt were identified using synchrotron X-ray diffraction at Argonne National Laboratory. The geochemistry of these inclusions confirmed a sublithospheric origin of the host diamond and provided evidence that during the diamond’s formation, subduction of basaltic ocean crust to the lower mantle was occurring. Dr. Mei Yan Lai (GIA, Carlsbad) shared her recent doctoral research completed at the University of Alberta, which investigated lithospheric mantle composition and volatile recycling in the West African Craton. Inclusion mineralogy, major/trace elemental composition, and carbon/nitrogen host isotopic analyses for 105 diamonds from the Koidu mine in Sierra Leone were systematically analyzed. Dr. Lai indicated two significant and distinct episodes of eclogitic diamond formation in Koidu diamonds: cores precipitated from crustal melts and rims formed from mantle-derived melts.
Other presentations examined diamond in sedimentary systems. In alluvial environments, alpha radiation can cause a green or brown surface color. Dr. Christopher M. Breeding (GIA, Carlsbad) reported on his recent study of a rare pink stain in a natural type Ib Fancy brownish yellow diamond, a feature also caused by radiation damage. PL spectroscopy suggested that high concentrations of nitrogen-vacancy (NV–) defects caused the pink color. It was suspected to have originated as a green diamond that turned pink as a result of higher temperature burial. Also, Dr. Roy Bassoo (GIA, Carlsbad) reported on various thermal annealing experiments on natural colorless diamonds to imitate diamond residence in a natural sedimentary system. Nitrogen content and aggregation, defect concentration, and luminescence color response upon heating were studied using Fourier-transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy, PL spectroscopy, and optical UV luminescence, respectively. Dr. Bassoo concluded that diamonds in a sedimentary system do not change their bodycolor, but such a system can influence defect-related luminescence.
GIA poster sessions highlighted three interesting colored diamond projects. First, Sarah Arden, Abadie Ludlam, and Elina Myagkaya (GIA, New York) presented their study on etch channels in a 3.17 ct pink type IIa diamond. A profusion of meandering (“worming”) channels of various lengths embedded in this pink diamond were observed with micro X-ray computed tomography (CT). High strain was observed under the polariscope, and GR1 defects were mapped as clusters around etch channels using PL. The authors hypothesized two possible formation mechanisms for the etch channels’ formation: (1) a type of line defect causing localized strain that is more vulnerable to dissolution and/or (2) Rose channels caused by micro-twinning and subsequently etched by mantle fluids. Skyelar Caplan (GIA, New York) reported a new color center (525 nm) as the cause of type Ia Fancy pink diamond. The 525 nm band together with an H-related 835 nm broad band caused a transmission for yellow and green light (610–660 nm) and resulted in a pink color. The 525 nm band observed in the UV-Vis absorption spectrum was related to high nickel content. Stephanie Persaud (GIA, New York) investigated two types of color-changing diamonds, chameleon and cryogenic, using spectroscopic analysis. Chameleon diamond changes from grayish green to orangy yellow upon heating, while cryogenic diamond changes from dark gray to light yellow when cooled to freezing temperatures. The cause of color change upon heating/cooling was attributed to changes in energy within the electron band gap.

Figure 3. The GIA booth attracted GSA attendees from all over the world. In the foreground, Nathan Renfro speaks with a visitor. Photo by Cathy Jonathan.
In addition to the research talks and posters, GIA’s booth in the exhibition hall also attracted many visitors. Robert Weldon (GIA, Carlsbad) hosted a demonstration of the use of light and camera settings for gemstone photography. He shared the stories and knowledge behind his photographs of the Hope diamond, the Dom Pedro aquamarine, and other notable gems. Nathan Renfro (GIA, Carlsbad) demonstrated techniques for inclusion photomicrography (figure 3) using different types of light sources.
An evening reception jointly hosted by GIA and the Mineralogical Society of America was held on October 11. The event provided gemologists and mineralogists with a great opportunity to exchange ideas and facilitate collaboration. In another GSA technical session, Dr. James Shigley shared GIA research opportunities with early-career mineralogists and crystallographers. Overall, the 2022 GSA meeting attracted strong attendance and notable interest in the gemology technical sessions and exhibits. We look forward to the 2023 GSA meeting, scheduled for October 15–18 in Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania. Source: GIA @topic:1


Title: Exhibition Review: Van Cleef & Arpels at the Bowers Museum Abstract: This multi-colored Van Cleef & Arpels bracelet from 1924 is decorated with ancient Egyptian hieroglyphic motifs. It features buff-top emeralds, sapphires, rubies, pavé-set diamonds, and calibrated onyx. Most of the house’s Egyptian revival jewels, which were at the height of fashion in the 1920s, are clips or bracelets created between 1922 and 1925. From "A Quest for Beauty: The Art of Van Cleef & Arpels," courtesy of Van Cleef & Arpels.

	“A Quest for Beauty: The Art of Van Cleef & Arpels”
The Bowers Museum of Cultural Art in Santa Ana, California
Through Feb. 15, 2014

This multifaceted exhibit, which debuted at the Bowers Museum Oct. 27, features more than 200 jewels and fashion accessories, as well as design sketches and archival photos of celebrities and royalty wearing some of the finest jewelry ever assembled.

According to Tim Adams, the Bowers’ curatorial consultant of decorative arts, the exhibit was more than ten years in the making. The pieces are from the archival Van Cleef & Arpels Collection, which the company has assembled through auction purchases for preservation.

The exhibit begins with the 1895 wedding of Alfred Van Cleef and Estelle Arpels. Clusters of photos in the foyer show the founders, the company’s first shop on Place Vendôme in Paris, and boutique openings in fashion capitals across the world. A floor-to-ceiling timeline lists important milestones from 1895 to the present day.

View Gallery

	These images show pieces from the exhibit, "A Quest for Beauty: The Art of Van Cleef & Arpels."
Set to soft 1930s jazz, the exhibit follows a series of four defining themes: Nature, Elegance, Exoticism and Feminism. “Nature” examines the unique flora and fauna motifs that have influenced much of the Parisian jeweler’s artistry. The Peony brooch featuring 700 Burmese rubies demonstrates the innovative Mystery Setting, patented in 1933. With this signature design, grooves cut underneath the gemstones allow them to slide along rails, concealing the metal mountings.

As Adams points out, “They lose half the rubies they work with in a Mystery Setting. First they have to find all the rubies that match in color, then calibrate-cut each one. When you slide and snap the rubies into place, they tend to break. You lose three-quarters of the emeralds. It can take one or two years to complete one of these pieces.”

The “Elegance” theme is epitomized by the Minaudière line of Art Deco vanity cases. Accented with platinum, gold and diamond, the black lacquer case’s compartments hold the essentials of a 1930s woman: mirror, lipstick, powder, cigarettes and dance cards. This themed section also features yellow gold and platinum pieces with the luxurious feel of fabric, including lace clips and the distinctive Zip necklace. Since its debut in 1951, this V-shaped zipper necklace has been one of the company’s iconic designs.

“Exoticism” brings to life Van Cleef & Arpels’ fascination with faraway cultures, which began during the Egyptian revival of the 1920s. On display are baroque Indian motifs and Chinese-inspired pieces such as the black and red enamel Dragon clip. The “hippie” era of the 1960s and ’70s saw the return of exotic elements in the jeweler’s designs.

At the heart of “Femininity” are weddings and coronations. These include the wedding set of Princess Grace Kelly of Monaco and a replica of the 1967 coronation crown of Iran’s Empress Farah Pahlavi. (For political reasons, the original tiara could not be brought back to Paris.) Archival photos from the various estates complement this section, which also features pieces worn by socialite Barbara Hutton, opera diva Maria Callas and actress Elizabeth Taylor.

Adams notes that the use of LED lighting, rather than incandescent or halogen lighting, truly captures the beauty of the gemstones on display.

A final section is dedicated to Van Cleef & Arpels’ extraordinary craftsmanship. Each piece is created entirely by hand, using sketches and old-fashioned tools. Visitors can view panels dedicated to every painstaking step of the jewelry-making process, or sit down to a screening of “Les Mains d’Or,” a collection of nine short films offering a rare glimpse inside the storied Place Vendôme workshops.

From the Bowers Museum, “A Quest for Beauty” will travel to the Houston Museum of Natural Science in 2014 and the Art Institute of Chicago the following year. Source: GIA @topic:6


Title: Heat Treating Corundum: The Bangkok Operation Abstract: Following up on Nassau's 1981 article on the technical aspects of heat treating ruby and sapphire, the author reports his personal observations of the actual heat treatment process in Bangkok. He discusses the potential effects that this process can have on a stone - both positive and negative - and emphasizes the importance of the natural make-up of the stone itself to the success of heat treatment. Source: GIA @topic:1


Title: 2018: A Banner Year for GIA Alumni to Stay Connected and Informed Abstract: GIA research scientist Dr. Ulrika D’Haenens-Johansson meets with leaders of the Korea chapter for a discussion on the latest information on synthetic diamond research. Photo courtesy of the Korea Chapter

A new year has begun with a promise to be better than ever for our graduates. GIA is committed to growing and serving our alumni community by continuing to share knowledge, develop and deliver education, and provide opportunity for our alumni throughout their careers.

The ability to benefit from your GIA alumni affiliation is easy, you must simply make the effort to participate. GIA provides countless opportunities to connect at tradeshows and GIA Career Fairs; stay informed via online and in-person delivery of education; or participate in the network of alumni chapters that serve the global GIA Alumni Association community. Each of these opportunities deliver the chance for you to grow your professional knowledge and network.

Your education should not end when you receive a diploma. Staying up-to-date, connected and informed is paramount for your success.

Robert Weldon, director of the Richard T. Liddicoat Gemological Library and Information Center, with a surprise guest – Mr. Ole, a visiting Masai tribal member in traditional clothing – at a San Diego chapter presentation on GIA’s beneficiation project to provide education to east African artisanal miners. Photo courtesy of Robert Gessner

Our alumni also have access to a variety of experiences and education events through GIA Alumni Chapters. Below is a list of the more than 25 chapter offerings just since November – delivered during and around the busiest season.

A Tucson Chapter Welcome was successfully organized by our newest chapter and was attended by local and visiting alumni and the GIA alumni team during February’s gem fairs. We congratulate the Tucson chapter on its first event.
A 32-Year Chapter Anniversary was celebrated by Golden Gate – California with a soiree in December. GIA extends our appreciation and thanks to this hands-on chapter and its committed volunteer leadership, loyal chapter members and each of the speakers who have delivered the extraordinary education presentations at chapter events through the years.
A Synthetic Diamond Update was delivered by Dr. Ulrika D’Haenens-Johansson, a research scientist at GIA, to members in Korea.
Educating Artisanal Miners, a GIA beneficiation initiative, was presented by Robert Weldon, director of GIA’s Richard T. Liddicoat Gemological Library and Information Center, to a full audience in San Diego. Attendees learned about GIA’s pilot program and Weldon’s visits to deliver education to miners in Tanzania. The event opened with a surprise visit from a Masai guest dressed in traditional clothing who shared a song and dance.
Mineral Complexity and Diversity was presented by Jeffrey Bergman, founder and director of Primagem, who shared his 40 years of experience in trading rare and unusual colored gems with the Houston chapter.
Selling Techniques for the Jewelry Industry was hosted by Monterrey – Mexico.
A Gem Study Group wrapped up the year for Twin Cities, Minnesota and concluded a year-long series of hands-on sessions for practicing gemology education.
A Night Among Gems, organized by Los Angeles, gave attendees the opportunity to view a special colored diamond exhibition at the Museum of Natural History in Los Angeles.
Colored Diamonds, the causes and origin understanding, was presented by Thomas Gelb to Manhattan.
Colored Gemstones was a topic for multiple chapters at the end of the year. These talks featured industry notable speakers, such as Roland Schluessel who spoke about ruby, sapphire and emerald at Golden Gate – California; David Baker, the American Gem Trade Association’s Membership and Education Manager (AGTA), who provided an AGTA update to Houston; and author and educator Dr. Joel Arem, who shared his insight “From Collector to Commercial” with Washington, D.C.
Diamond and Gemstone Pricing was covered by two chapters. Diamond price factors and buying tools was discussed by Prashant Bhojani, manager of RapNet in Hong Kong, while “Valuing Ruby, Emerald and Sapphire” was presented by Richard Drucker, president and CEO of Gemworld International and Dr. Cigdem Lule in Houston.
A Gemologist’s Journey through Madagascar was shared by chapter president, Michelle Rahm with Mile High, Colorado.
Social Gatherings and holiday parties brought Greater Cincinnati, Houston, Mumbai, South Florida, Toronto and Washington, D.C. alumni, students and industry friends together.
Brand Safety protection, advice and recommendations from Angel Ramos with the Mexican Institute of Industrial Property was well received by members in Monterrey, Mexico.
Auction Insights were shared by Justin Rogers, an academic and senior jewelry specialist in London.
Gemology Tours and Excursions brought Mexico City members to visit southern California in February. The trip included stops at GIA’s World Headquarters and campus in Carlsbad, a visit to the world-renown gem and mineral collection at the Museum of Natural History Los Angeles, and a day tour and digging at the Oceanview Mine in Pala, California.
My Brilliant Life in Jewels was the featured presentation by renown colored gemstone trader Cynthia Renee, in Manhattan.
Jewelry History topics featured notable speakers Debra Finleon, GIA GG, who discussed “The Fascinating Life and Fabulous Jewels of Marjorie Merriweather Post” in Manhattan and Dr. Wilfried Zeisler, chief curator of Hillwood Estate, Museum & Gardens in Washington, D.C., who explored the history of the House of Fabergé.

The Los Angeles chapter celebrated “A Night Among Gems,” a viewing of a special collection of colored diamonds on temporary display at the Museum of Natural History in Los Angeles. From left: Aaron Celestian, associate curator of mineralogy at the Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County; Kate Donovan, GIA manager of global alumni relations; and Los Angeles alumni chapter leadership: Charles Carmona, Maryanna Nagle, Evelyn Huang and Dave Bindra. Photo courtesy of the Los Angeles Chapter
Alumni News – Take Note

The 2018 Continuing Education Recognition Program is open for registration and the first module has been released. Developed by GIA to keep our graduates relevant and informed, the program offers eight interactive modules – released February through September – that cover mining, lapidary, jewelry manufacturing and more. Participants have 24/7 online access to the program and must complete all module activities before Dec. 31 to receive their 2018 acknowledgement of completion. For those who have not signed up, visit the Continuing Education page on our website.
Special Registration Extended to GIA Alumni – organizers of the fourth Mediterranean Gemmological and Jewellery Conference, which will take place May 18-20 in Budva, Montenegro, are extending a discounted registration for GIA alumni worldwide to attend.

Mexico City chapter members visited GIA’s World Headquarters on a Southern California excursion. Photo courtesy of the Mexico City Chapter
Upcoming GIA Education and Networking Opportunities in Europe
Mark your calendars for these upcoming European trade fairs and GIA activities, including the first-ever GIA Jewelry Career Fair in Europe. We hope to see you at these events.

GIA Education, Laboratory Services and Networking Opportunities:
Baselworld (March 22-27) – Visit GIA representatives at our booth in Hall 2.0 for the latest news, education and instrument offerings and be sure to inquire about your invitation to join the GIA Reception in Basel on March 24. In addition, the GIA Show Service Laboratory in Hall 3.0 will be accepting colored gemstones for laboratory services, such as gem identification and country of origin report services for select colored gemstones. (Diamonds and pearls will not be accepted for reports during the show.)
GIA Gemfest Europe and Carat + Show, in Antwerp (May 6-8) – Visit GIA representatives for the latest information on GIA education, instruments and services. Also, join us at GIA Gemfest Europe, featuring a presentation by Tom Moses, GIA’s executive vice president and chief research and laboratory officer, on May 7. Additional details will be released by GIA as the date nears or on the Carat + Show website.
GIA at GemGenève (May 10-13) – GIA will participate in the first-ever GemGenève International Geneva Gem & Jewellery Show, in Switzerland. Visit GIA representatives for the latest information on GIA education, instruments and services and make the most of the GIA Show Service Laboratory available to accept and provide laboratory gem identification and country of origin report services on colored gemstones. Additional details will be released by GIA as the date nears.
GIA Career Fair in London
	GIA will host its first-ever Jewelry Career Fair in London on April 23. The opening panel, “Job Success in Today’s Marketplace,” includes Michael Asscher, vice president of Royal Asscher; Nadja Swarovski, executive board member of Swarovski; and Michael Wainwright, managing director of Boodles. The day will also offer opportunities for career coaching and recruiting from top U.K. and global firms.

	GIA Jewelry Career Fair is the gem and jewelry industry’s largest recruiting event. Whether you’re looking for a rewarding career or seeking to hire a qualified gem and jewelry professional, GIA Jewelry Career Fair is where opportunity happens.
GIA Symposium in 2018
	Registration is open for the GIA International Gemological Symposium, to be held in Carlsbad, California Oct. 7-9. Join industry members from around the globe at the sixth-ever symposium in GIA’s history. Visit the event website for an outline of the symposium experience and to register.

The Manhattan chapter hosted renown colored gemstone trader Cynthia Renee for “My Brilliant Life in Jewels.” Above, Cynthia Renee, left, and Michaelene Mason. Photo courtesy of the Manhattan Chapter
I have a feeling 2018 will be a banner year and we are off to a remarkable start! As seen from the commitment of our chapters that deliver valuable education and network events, as well as GIA’s extensive activities around the world, alumni support is there. It’s simply up to you to stay connected and stay informed. Source: GIA @topic:9


Title: Sapphire History and Lore Abstract: The 330-ct Star of Asia is in the collection of the National Museum of Natural History – Chip Clark, courtesy Smithsonian Institution

                      Traditionally, sapphire symbolizes nobility, truth, sincerity, and faithfulness. It has decorated the robes of royalty and clergy members for centuries. Its extraordinary color is the standard against which other blue gems—from topaz to tanzanite—are measured.

For centuries, sapphire has been associated with royalty and romance. The association was reinforced in 1981, when Britain’s Prince Charles gave a blue sapphire engagement ring to Lady Diana Spencer. Until her death in 1997, Princess Di, as she was known, charmed and captivated the world. Her sapphire ring helped link modern events with history and fairy tales.

In ancient Greece and Rome, kings and queens were convinced that blue sapphires protected their owners from envy and harm. During the Middle Ages, the clergy wore blue sapphires to symbolize Heaven, and ordinary folks thought the gem attracted heavenly blessings. In other times and places, people instilled sapphires with the power to guard chastity, make peace between enemies, influence spirits, and reveal the secrets of oracles.

In folklore, history, art, and consumer awareness, sapphire has always been associated with the color blue. Its name comes from the Greek word sappheiros, which probably referred to lapis lazuli. Most jewelry customers think all sapphires are blue, and when gem and jewelry professionals use the word “sapphire” alone, they normally mean “blue sapphire.”

A special orangy pink sapphire color is called padparadscha, which means “lotus flower” in Sinhalese, the language spoken in Sri Lanka. Stones from Sri Lanka were initially the only ones labeled with this marketable name. There’s no telling how many padparadschas have been sifted from Sri Lankan river gravel throughout history. Sri Lankans have a special affection for the color that’s traditionally been linked with their country. Source: GIA @topic:1


Title: Unique Sphalerite from Spain Abstract: A 7.70 ct yellow sphalerite from Spain exhibiting a one-of-a-kind red circular center with distinct black rings. Face-up view of the pattern (left) and face-down view showing the careful placement of the red region by the cutter (right). Photos by Robert Weldon; courtesy of Dudley Blauwet Gems.
Tucson is always full of surprises, and this year was no exception. At the AGTA show, Dudley Blauwet (Dudley Blauwet Gems, Louisville, Colorado) pulled a gem box out of his pocket to show the author a truly unique gem. This yellow sphalerite had a perfect red circle centered in the table with three sharp and distinct black rings encircling it (see above).
The stone was cut from material from Santander in Cantabria, Spain, a source known for producing the best facet-grade sphalerite in the world. The deposit yields orange and red stones that can be quite large, with some weighing hundreds of carats.
Sphalerite, a zinc sulfide (ZnS) mineral, is an important ore of zinc and rarely of gem quality. Colorless in its pure form, it goes from yellow to red to brown to a submetallic black color with the addition of iron. The presence of cobalt can cause a green color. Sphalerite has both an extremely high refractive index (2.37) and dispersion (>0.150), and when properly cut it can have significant brilliance. Despite these desirable gem qualities, sphalerite’s softness (Mohs hardness of only 3.5 to 4.0), brittleness, and perfect cleavage make it a challenge to cut and polish (R.T. Liddicoat, Handbook of Gem Identification, Gemological Institute of America, Santa Monica, California, 1989).
This one-of-a-kind stone was expertly cut in Europe by an artisan who knew how to work soft, brittle stones with cleavage and how to properly center the red “dot” in the culet. The distribution of iron in this sphalerite crystal assumes distinct regions: sharply defined black rings with high iron saturation, a red circular area of medium saturation, and a surrounding area of lower saturation.
This exceptional sphalerite is proof that the combination of Mother Nature and a skilled cutter can reveal the infinite possibilities for spectacular gems. Source: GIA @topic:2


Title: Bill Boyajian Abstract: Bill Boyajian, president of GIA from 1986 to 2006, is known for a vision that took the Institute to its global position. His path to the gem and jewelry industry began during college, when he was offered a job at the jewelry counter of a local department store. He soon discovered a love of jewelry and gems and a desire for a career in the industry. His boss told him that GIA was the starting point, and he began classes three weeks after graduating.

	About his first diamond class, taught by Jim Lucey, Boyajian said, “I knew then what I was going to do—I wanted to be like that man and teach that class!” He applied for a job at GIA just before finishing his G.G. in 1975 and began teaching at the Santa Monica campus in 1976.

	Over the next several years, Boyajian’s positions included instructor, grader, colored stone program supervisor, manager of new product development, and marketing manager. Then in 1986 the Board of Governors selected him to become president when Glenn Nord stepped down for health reasons. Boyajian was only 34 years old, but Nord and his predecessor, Richard Liddicoat, had long seen him as the person to lead the Institute into the next century. “He had a total belief in what GIA can do for the industry and a dedication to gemology,” Nord said.

	A self-described idealist, Boyajian is recognized for his management and marketing skills and his talent for inspiring others. He was the first to initiate long-range strategic planning with the GIA Master Plan in the 1980s, and he began GIA’s global education expansion. The size of the laboratory more than doubled under his leadership, and he oversaw the move to the Carlsbad campus in the mid-1990s. He also initiated GIA’s colored stones grading system. A noted speaker and writer, he has lectured and published extensively, including authoring or coauthoring 19 articles for Gems & Gemology.

	Since leaving the Institute in 2006, Boyajian has consulted for jewelers and other businesses and published a book on leadership. His industry recognition includes the Diamond Industry Steering Committee Hall of Fame (1998), the National Conference for Community Justice Humanitarian Award (1998), an AGTA Honorary Life Membership (1999), the AGS Circle of Distinction (2002), the WJA Ben Kaiser Award for Excellence (2005), and the American Gem Society’s Robert M. Shipley Award (2013).

	“I put no limits on what I or GIA can do,” Boyajian told Jewelers’ Circular Keystone during his tenure at the Institute. “What’s necessary today is to serve a cause that will last a lot longer than any of us. That is the ultimate motivator.” Source: GIA @topic:9


Title: Books: Van Cleef & Arpels: Treasures and Legends Abstract: By Vincent Meylan, hardcover, 344 pp., publ. by Antique Collectors Club, 2014, $95.00.

Van Cleef & Arpels: Treasures and Legends by Vincent Meylan delves into the glittering world of the venerable Parisian jewelry firm. Meylan explores the glamorous and exotic patrons who commissioned and collected these pieces, and the world in which they lived. Each chapter of Treasures and Legends is filled with both color and black-and-white photos of necklaces, rings, bracelets, brooches, and earrings. Some images show the firm’s pieces as worn by many of the prominent collectors over the past century. The original design sketches often accompany photos from the VC&A archives.

History buffs will enjoy the stories of royalty, particularly the maharajas and maharanis of Baroda (now Vadodara), India. The vast wealth of jewels that were collected in the Indian principalities is legendary, and Baroda, in Gujarat, was one of the wealthiest. The three-tier great ceremonial diamond collar necklace of Baroda, one of the crown jewels of the state, was made for Maharaja Khanderao in 1864. The necklace contained three of the world's most important diamonds: the Dresden Green, the Star of the South, and the Eugénie. At the time of its creation, it was the most valuable piece of jewelry in the world. The author traces the history of these and other magnificent jewels of Baroda, as well as the colorful and sometimes tragic stories of their owners, such as Maharani Seta Devi of Baroda. With India's independence in 1947, many maharajas had to sell their treasures to sustain their large homes. Seta Devi moved to Paris instead, where she was known for lavish parties and extravagant living. But eventually her money ran out, her beloved son was murdered, and she died in obscurity in 1989.

Other royal stories involve the coronation and crown jewels of the Shah of Iran, as well as the coronation crown of his third wife, Farah Diba. Intimate family photos and sumptuous coronation images highlight the story of the firm’s greatest commission. A first-hand account by Pierre Arpels adds to the interesting narrative of this journey to create these royal treasures. The Duke and Duchess of Windsor’s famous love affair was documented by many of the pieces of jewelry that he purchased for her at the great jewelry houses of Paris. The Duchess is seen wearing their pieces in many candid photos of them in social settings. Their wedding day photo shows the Duchess wearing her wedding gift: a large sapphire and diamond Mystery-set Jarretière bracelet from Van Cleef & Arpels.

Meylan also explores the role VC&A played in the world of Hollywood royalty. Marlene Dietrich was seen wearing her large ruby and diamond Jarretière bracelet in more than one film. At her death, Elizabeth Taylor’s estate contained more jewelry pieces from Van Cleef & Arpels than from any other jewelry house. Several of her impressive pieces are displayed in this book, and with them their stories of love and passion that defined Taylor’s life. Meylan names other luminaries, such as Barbara Hutton and Grace Kelly, as fans of the jewelry house.

The book ends with a chapter on the personalities in the family, including founders Esther Arpels and Alfred Van Cleef, their daughter Renée Puissant, and Esther’s brothers Charles, Julian, and Louis Arpels. Puissant in particular plays a fascinating role in the company’s history, becoming the artistic director of the firm in 1926. In the 1930s, under her direction, some of the firm’s most iconic pieces, including the “Mystery Setting” and the “Zipper Necklace,” are created. Van Cleef & Arpels: Treasures and Legends takes the reader on a historical journey filled with stunning pieces and interesting characters throughout the world—characters connected with a golden thread, their love of the beautiful art of Van Cleef & Arpels. Source: GIA @topic:6


Title: Books: Wonders Within Gemstones II Abstract: By Anthony de Goutiere, softcover, 72 pp., publ. by FriesenPress, Victoria, British Columbia, 2014, Can$23.99.

                      In his second book on photomicrography, Wonders Within Gemstones II, Anthony de Goutiere presents remarkable photos of gem inclusions. De Goutiere reveals the natural beauty of these features by applying various lighting methods to a wide range of gemstones, including amber, beryl, corundum, diaspore, feldspar, garnet, malachite, meteorite, peridot, quartz, spodumene, and topaz. Readers will get a thorough overview on how to use these approaches to find “invisible” inclusions. It is a great resource for both the general public and those working in the jewelry trade and in gemological laboratories.

de Goutiere has mastered the use of oblique illumination, polarized illumination, and diffused illumination to reveal the most amazing aspects of many inclusions, such as iridescent color in fractures, cleavages, parting planes, thin films (like liquid inclusions), and voids. In one notable photo, the whitish mosaic thin film inclusions in aquamarine become remarkably colorful because of the excellent use of oblique illumination. The author demonstrates how darkfield and transmitted oblique illumination exhibit the sharp euhedral crystal faces of the syngenetic crystals inside gemstones. de Goutiere also uses diffused reflected oblique illumination to reveal distinctive surface etch markings and crystal growth markings, and shows how polarized illumination exposes internal graining and strain as well as birefringent spectral colors. It is such a vivid use of oblique illumination, which can be a very useful but challenging lighting technique for gemologists. The description of each photograph is concise, clear, and well organized. It covers stone information, inclusion detail, and lighting method. Some photos look like abstract art, and some are reminiscent of nature scenes such as mountains, rivers, and animals. These beautiful images are all strikingly rainbow-colored due to the effect of the light.

A Graduate Gemologist with over 50 years of experience, de Goutiere has filled his book with gemological knowledge, a persistent passion for gemstones, and an impressive aesthetic standard. Each photo is enhanced by his unique and artistic perspective. Wonders Within Gemstones II is an enjoyable read for anyone interested in gemstones. It is a valuable reference for any enthusiast who would like to start their photomicrographic adventure. Source: GIA @topic:1


Title: Natural Blisters with Partially Filled Areas Abstract: Figure 1. The four large baroque blisters examined are shown alongside a Pinctada maxima shell (left), a Pteria sterna shell (second from the left) and two Pteria penguin shells. Photo by Lhapsin Nillapat.

	Natural blisters and blister pearls have been the subject of previous reports in G&G (see Lab Notes from Fall 1992, Spring 1995, Winter 1996, and Winter 2015, and Gem News International from Fall 2001 and Winter 2009). In February 2016, four large “pearls” (figure 1) were submitted to GIA’s Bangkok laboratory for identification. On first impression they appeared to differ from most pearls or blister pearls examined in the past. The specimens ranged from approximately 25.06 × 18.31 × 13.41 mm to 55.90 × 13.89 × 7.96 mm, and they weighed 32.33, 37.20, 41.41, and 52.17 ct. Two of the items were white, and the other two were silver and orangy brown.

	All the samples had eye-visible areas on their bases and around their outlines where they had obviously been worked or cut to either remove them from their shell hosts or improve the symmetry (in some cases both). These are telltale signs of blisters and blister pearls, since both must be removed from the shell to be presented in loose form. What caught our attention was the fact that all four items possessed dark or cream bands on their bases (figure 2). These bands appeared to be organic-rich formations, noted in some pearls and more commonly in shells, yet this did not turn out to be the case in three of the samples.

Figure 2. Dark and cream-colored bands on the bases appeared to be organic-rich formations. Photo by Lhapsin Nillapat.

	The items were considered blisters rather than blister pearls (E. Strack, Pearls, Ruhle-Diebener-Verlag, Stuttgart, Germany, 2006, pp. 115–127). This determination was based on external appearance and features, the “work” that had taken place on them in relation to where they were likely removed from the shells, and the results of real-time X-ray microradiography (RTX), which revealed growth arcs following the shape of the blisters to varying degrees.

	The curving black band on the base of the smallest white blister contained translucent to opaque organic-looking material characteristic of conchiolin (figure 3A), one of the constituents of pearls and shells. The remaining three blisters had structures within their bands that did not match the structure observed in the first blister. The bands in the two orangy brown blisters consisted of an essentially transparent near-colorless substance in which minute black pinpoint particles imparted an overall black color (figure 3B). Meanwhile, the band in the remaining white blister showed areas of completely transparent near-colorless material and other areas of the same near-colorless material, mixed with small pieces of what appeared to be shell fragments. Distorted bubbles were clearly visible in the transparent areas on the base of the partially filled white blister (figure 3C) and one of the colored blisters (figure 3D); no obvious bubbles were seen in the other blister. RTX also revealed the extent of the filling on the bases of the three blisters.

	Figure 3. A: Part of the dark conchiolin-rich curving band on the flat base of the 32.33 ct white blister; field of view 2.88 mm. B: Black pinpoint particles in the transparent near-colorless filler on the base of the 37.20 ct colored blister; field of view 1.20 mm. C: Distorted bubbles in the transparent filler on the base of the 41.41 ct white blister; field of view 2.40 mm. D: Obvious bubbles in the filler on the base of the 52.17 ct colored blister; field of view 2.40 mm. Photos by Kwanreun Lawanwong.

	Raman spectroscopy of the near-colorless filled areas of the two colored blisters did not show any polymer or resin peaks that matched those found in the white blister’s filling. Therefore, we conducted basic testing on all three samples with a very carefully placed hot point in areas of the filling where some damage or abrasion already existed. The unmistakable plastic odor and melting of the tested areas was enough to confirm the artificial nature of the fillers. Interestingly enough, the fillers did not display a noticeable fluorescence under long-wave or short-wave ultraviolet light, but the two orangy brown blisters did exhibit distinct orange to orange-red fluorescence, which is characteristic of the porphyrins (naturally occurring pigments) known to exist in Pteria species shells of similar coloration (L. Kiefert et al., “Cultured pearls from the Gulf of California, Mexico,” Spring 2004 G&G, pp. 26–38). Out of curiosity, we also checked the dark conchiolin-rich band in the smaller white blister with the hot point and fluorescence. It was no surprise to smell a distinctly unpleasant organic reaction from the band and see a weak chalky yellowish reaction under UV lighting.

	These four blisters were good examples of this material, and three of them were the first partially filled blisters to be examined by GIA’s Bangkok laboratory. The three partially filled blisters show that even material with relatively low market value may be treated in some way, and buyers should always be aware of what is being offered to them. Source: GIA @topic:5


Title: Searching for Sapphire in the Tasmanian Wilderness Abstract: View Gallery

Twentieth century Australian tin miners came across a deposit of material that was very different − and much more colorful − than what they expected: fine blue, green and yellow sapphire.

GIA field gemologists journeyed to the deposit near Weldborough in North Eastern Tasmania in 2012 and 2013 to gather samples for GIA’s reference collection, which is used for the Institute’s research and education programs. Field researchers went back to the Tasmanian wilderness in early 2015, bringing along the newest member of their team for hands-on training.

“The best way we can determine where a reference sample is from is to mine it ourselves,” said Vincent Pardieu, GIA’s senior manager of field gemology. “Knowing how to efficiently mine sapphires from a stream is a great skill for any field gemologist to have.”

Outfitted in wet suits and using traditional hand tools, the field gemologists worked tirelessly for three days in a stream surrounded by lush vegetation. They collected more than 200 sapphire samples, all of the basalt-related type, which are mostly blue with some yellow and green samples. In addition to sapphire, the team uncovered black spinel, zircon and topaz in the gravels.

“Digging for sapphire in Tasmania was tough, but extremely fascinating and rewarding,” said Stanislas Detroyat, a field gemology trainee at GIA. “I learned where to find sapphires in secondary deposits and felt the excitement of finally getting a sapphire from the field in my hands.”

Detroyat and Pardieu were accompanied by Didier Barriere Doleac, videographer; Chris Hood, gemologist and jeweler for Metal Urges in Tasmania; and expedition guests Eleonore Tatou, Marjorie Michel and Benjamin John. The team also had the opportunity to meet with Khin Zaw, research professor at the University of Tasmania, and Brendan M. McGee, a copper miner in Western Tasmania who wrote a thesis about Tasmanian sapphire under Professor Zaw’s supervision.

Background

In keeping with its mission to ensure the public trust in gems and jewelry, GIA regularly conducts research field trips to important gem and jewelry centers around the globe, incorporating findings into research practices and education programs and providing information to the trade and public. GIA appreciates the access and information provided during these visits; however, they should not be taken as or used as a commercial endorsement. Findings from the Tasmania field trip will be featured in an upcoming issue of G&G, as well as in field reports and video documentaries on the website. Source: GIA @topic:1


Title: Identification and Durability of Lead Glass–Filled Rubies Abstract: In early 2004, the GAAJ laboratory in Japan issued a lab alert about rubies they had seen that had large numbers of fractures filled with high-lead-content glass, which made them appear very transparent. Since then, large quantities of this material have reached international markets. This dramatic treatment is not difficult to identify with a standard gemological microscope, since it has characteristics similar to clarity-enhanced diamonds (flash effect, gas bubbles, etc.). However, locating filled cavities in reflected light is more challenging, as the surface luster of the filler is close to that of ruby. The filling material appears to be very effective in reducing the appearance of fractures. Durability testing of a few samples by highly skilled jewelers indicated that the filler was fairly resistant to heat exposure during jewelry repair procedures, but it reacted readily with solvents. Source: GIA @topic:3


Title: Multicolored Bismuth-bearing Tourmaline from Lundazi, Zambia Abstract: Tourmalines from an alluvial deposit near Lundazi in Zambia consist of color zoned pink/colorless/yellow-green “watermelon” nodules; many fashioned stones contain patches and blends of all three colors. Although these elbaite tourmalines are unusually rich in bismuth (up to 0.49 wt. % Bi2O3), the presence of bismuth apparently has no effect on their gemological properties. Approximately 10,000 carats of fashioned stones are known to have been produced from October 1996 to mid-1997. Source: GIA @topic:2


Title: Bench Tip #3: Discover the Benefits of CAD CAM Abstract: Discover the benefits of CAD/CAM

CAD/CAM is a term that describes the two-part process of designing three-dimensional objects on a computer (CAD) and manufacturing them with a computerized machine (CAM). For many years this technology has been essential in making products from tennis shoes to automobiles, and it is rapidly gaining importance in the jewelry industry. In fact, many experts believe CAD/CAM will be the primary process of jewelry design and manufacturing in the near future.

CAD is an acronym for computer-aided design, but early on it stood for computer-aided drafting, since it was essentially a tool to make traditional technical drawings with a monitor and a mouse. As technology progressed, it became possible to create three-dimensional “models” within the computer environment. These “virtual solids” can be rotated and manipulated onscreen and examined from any angle, built up and cut away the same as a physical model, and even weighed before they are constructed.

For the bench jeweler, CAD modeling onscreen has more in common with wax carving than with pencil, paper and watercolors. Once the virtual model is completed to the designer’s satisfaction, the CAD file may be sent to a CAM machine for production. Rhino, Matrix, ArtCam, RhinoGold and Solidworks are some of the widely used 3-D modeling software in the jewelry industry today.

The beginning of the modeling process in CAD/CAM. It's easy to add or change elements of a design on the computer.
The advantages of CAD/CAM over traditional manufacturing methods are similar to the advantages of a word processor, such as Microsoft Word, over a typewriter. A typewriter produces “one-off” documents that aren’t easily changeable without starting over. But Word files can be modified easily, copied and pasted into other documents, and saved at each stage for later use.

CAD files can also be copied, changed and saved as often as the designer chooses. A model can be designed and saved, then redesigned to create literally endless variations on a theme. A file can be called up the next day or 10 years later and still be redesigned and sent to the CAM machine. Some manufacturers have stopped making master models since they only need to open the original CAD file and send it to the CAM machine to produce an exact duplicate of the master. Many smaller jewelers own just the CAD software and simply e-mail their CAD files to CAM service bureaus, which fabricate the models for them.

The final design in CAD/CAM.
Besides its advantages in the manufacturing process, CAD software can work in tandem with high-tech rendering software such as V-Ray, Brazil and Maxwell to produce spectacular photorealistic images of virtual jewelry models before the actual piece is made. These images can be extremely effective marketing and sales tools.

A rendering of the design created in CAD/CAM. Source: GIA @topic:6