Title: Summer 2009 G&G Book Reviews Abstract: “Mikimoto”
By Nick Foulkes, 80 pp., illus., publ. by Assouline Publishing [www.assouline.com], New York, 2008. US$18.95

“The Occurrence of Diamonds in South Africa”
By M. G. C. Wilson, N. McKenna, and M. D. Lynn; 105 pp. with two wall charts, illus., publ. by Council for Geoscience [www.geoscience.org.za], Pretoria, South Africa, 2007. US$68.00

“Gemlore: Ancient Secrets and Modern Myths from the Stone Age to the Rock Age”
By Diane Morgan, 232 pp., publ. by Greenwood Press [www.greenwood.com], Westport, CT, 2008. US$55.00

“Gems & Jewelry Appraising: Techniques of Professional Practice, 3rd Ed.”
By Anna M. Miller, edited by Gail Brett Levine, 235 pp., illus., publ. by Gemstone Press [www.gemstonepress.com], Woodstock, VT, 2009. $39.99

“The Opal Story: A Guidebook”
By Andrew Cody and Damien Cody, 39 pp. with DVD supplement, illus., publ. by the authors [www.nationalopal.com], Melbourne, Australia, 2008, US$37.00

“Growth and Morphology of Quartz Crystals Natural and Synthetic”
By Ichiro Sunagawa, Hideo Iwasaki, and Fumiko Iwasaki, 202 pp., illus., publ. by Terrapub [www.terrapub.co.jp], Tokyo, 2009, ¥7500

To view the full section, download the PDF above. Source: GIA @topic:10


Title: Ammolite: Iridescent Fossilized Ammonite from Southern Alberta, Canada Abstract: A relative newcomer to the world gem market (since the 1960s), Ammolite is a form of aragonite that is obtained from vivid iridescent fossilized ammonite shells mined in Alberta, Canada. The gem material, from the extinct species Placenticeras meeki and P. intercalare, is found only in certain horizons of the Bearpaw Formation of  Late Cretaceous age (about 70–75 million years old). Because the iridescent layer is generally thin and fragile, most Ammolite is fashioned into assembled stones. This article describes the history of Ammolite as a gem material and the geologic setting of the main producing mines; offers an explanation for the formation of Ammolite and the origin of its color (i.e., iridescence caused by an interference phenomenon); presents production data, gemological properties, and a grading classification; and describes the manufacturing process. Source: GIA @topic:1


Title: Spinel History and Lore Abstract: This gem at the Chicago Field Museum of Natural History is inscribed with noor jahan, or “light of the universe.” - Courtesy "Gems and Gemstones:Timeless Natural Beauty of the Mineral World" by Lance Grande and Allison Augustyn, 2009. University of Chicago Press.

                      Spinel is a good candidate for the title of “History’s Most Underappreciated Gem.” Some ancient mines that supplied gems for royal courts from Rome to China produced spinel, but it was usually confused with better-known stones like ruby and sapphire.

In ancient times, the mines of central and southeast Asia yielded exceptionally large spinel crystals. These fine stones became known as Balas rubies, and some of them were the treasured property of kings and emperors, often passing through many hands as spoils of war. As a result, some of the world’s most illustrious “rubies” are actually spinel.

One of the most famous examples is the so-called “Black Prince’s ruby.” This historic crimson-red gem is set in England’s Imperial State Crown and displayed in the Tower of London. Smoothly polished and roughly octagonal in shape, it was probably mined in the mountains of Afghanistan. It first appeared in the historical records of fourteenth-century Spain, and was owned by a succession of Moorish and Spanish Kings before Edward, Prince of Wales—the “Black Prince”— received the stone in 1367 as payment for a battle victory.

Since then, many other English monarchs—including Henry VIII—have cherished the gem. It’s outlasted them all, surviving fires, attempted theft, and World War II bombing raids, to become—with the Koh-i-Noor diamond—one of the centerpieces of England’s Crown Jewels.

Another large spinel in the Crown Jewels, the “Timur ruby,” weighs over 350 carats. It, too, has a checkered history. Several Persian inscriptions carved into the gem testify to its age.

Modern technology hasn’t helped spinel’s confused identity as far as the general public is concerned. This is due largely to the widespread use of synthetic spinel as an imitation for many other gems. Most customers aren’t even aware that there’s a natural version of the stone. Source: GIA @topic:1


Title: Summer 2001 G&G Book Reviews Abstract: “Ammolite 2: A Guide for Gemmologists, Jewellers and Lapidaries”
By Donna Barnson, 116 pp., illus., publ. by the author, 2000. Can$29.95

“The Dorling Kindersley Handbook of Gemstones”
By Cally Hall, with photography by Harry Taylor, 160 pp., illus., publ. by Dorling Kindersley, London, 2000. US$18.95

“Gem & Jewelry Pocket Guide”
By Renee Newman, 156 pp., illus., publ. by International Jewelry Publications, Los Angeles, 2001. US$11.95

“Nature Guide to Gemstones & Minerals of Australia.”
By Lin Sutherland and Gayle Webb, 128 pp., illus., publ. by Reed New Holland Publishers, Sydney, 2000. Aus$24.95

“The Practical Guide to Jewelry Appraising”
By Cos Altobelli, 292 pp., publ. by the American Gem Society, Las Vegas, NV, 2000. US$49.95

“Ethnic Jewelry: From Africa, Europe and Asia”
By Sibylle Jargstorf, 160 pp., illus., publ. by Schiffer Publishing Co., Atglen, PA, 2000, US$29.95.

“Costume Jewelers: The Golden Age of Design, 3rd Ed”
By Joanne Dubbs Ball, 205 pp., illus., publ. by Schiffer Publishing Co., Atglen, PA, 2000, US$39.95

To view the full section, download the PDF above. Source: GIA @topic:10


Title: YNY Jewels: Designer Surbhi Pandya Abstract: Figure 1. Surbhi’s “Orient” earrings with tanzanite carvings surrounded by blue sapphires, emeralds, white diamonds, and tsavorite garnets with an upper flower-shaped dangle composed of faceted tanzanites, emeralds, and pink sapphires, all set in 18K white gold. The total diamond weight for the pair is 1.60 carats, and the total colored stone weight is 62.23 carats, 48.32 carats of which are from the two tanzanite carvings. Photo by Robert Weldon; courtesy of YNY Jewels Inc. and Karats Inc.
A dazzling pair of carved tanzanite earrings (figure 1) caught our attention at the GJX show. Designer Surbhi Pandya of YNY Jewels (New York), who goes by the single name Surbhi, described the significance of the carving featured on each of the large unheated tanzanite crystals. Depicted in violet and green is the lotus blossom, a flower with ancient cultural significance in India, rising with its deep roots from the mud without stains, symbolizing purity and strength. As the blossoms close up at night and reopen the next day, they also symbolize rebirth. Each carving is immediately surrounded by a ring of blue Kashmir sapphires and emeralds, followed by colorless diamonds and bright green tsavorite garnets. Each upper dangle contains faceted slices of tanzanite and emerald with a central hot pink sapphire. She also shared a pendant with a paisley-shaped unheated tanzanite similarly containing a lotus carving (figure 2). She explained that the paisley shape represents continuity and life.

Figure 2. An 18K white gold pendant containing a paisley-shaped unheated tanzanite with a lotus blossom carving, surrounded by pavé-set black diamonds and pink and purple princess-cut Sri Lankan sapphires. The total weight of the diamonds is 1.00 carats, and the colored stones total 23.40 carats. Photo by Robert Weldon; courtesy of YNY Jewels Inc.

Figure 3. Designer Surbhi. Photo by Jennifer Stone-Sundberg.
Surbhi (figure 3) has been making jewelry for 20 years and was trained by her father, Yogendra Sethi, a renowned artist in India. She described designing jewelry as a journey filled with energy. She does not make jewelry to please herself, but out of a drive to create things that speak to others. Surbhi shared stories of customers’ deeply personal connections with her jewelry, a profoundly rewarding experience for her as an artist. Source: GIA @topic:6


Title: Marble Imitation of Jadeite Rough Abstract: Figure 1. This 30 kg stone was submitted as a piece of jadeite rough. A narrow window (in the red circle) opened on the surface of the rough reveals a green material underneath the skin. Photo by Huang Jing.
In recent decades, jadeite prices have risen dramatically. Driven by profit, a variety of imitations are found in the jadeite jewelry market. Meanwhile, imitations such as quartzite are fixtures in the rough jadeite market. Recently, our research group received for testing a 30 kg stone that resembled jadeite rough and was submitted as such. The stone had a yellow weathered skin with a grainy texture, similar to jadeite. There was a narrow “window” (figure 1) that showed the green color of the material underneath the skin. For identification purposes, the authors exposed another area on the surface of the rough and then ground it for testing.
Due to the weight, some standard gemological testing methods could not be used, such as measurement of refractive index and specific gravity. Therefore, the sample was studied by visual and 10× loupe observation, hardness testing, chemical reagent detection, and infrared spectroscopy.

Figure 1. This 30 kg stone was submitted as a piece of jadeite rough. A narrow window (in the red circle) opened on the surface of the rough reveals a green material underneath the skin. Photo by Huang Jing.
Scratch testing revealed a Mohs hardness between 2 and 5, lower than jadeite’s hardness of 6–7. The surface was yellow, just like the weathered skin of jadeite rough, and the narrow window in figure 1 revealed green color below the skin. Scrubbing the window with alcohol removed the green color, indicating that the window had been dyed. To test the material, diluted hydrochloric acid was dropped on the newly exposed portion in figure 2. The acid foamed continuously, showing that the sample contained carbonate (Z. Hanli et al., “Study on acid polishing of carbonate white jade,” Journal of Gems and Gemmology, Vol. 5, No. 4, 2003, pp. 24–27). The acid testing combined with visible observations and hardness testing identified the sample as marble. The jadeite granular structure came from the marble’s cleavage planes.
Testing of the exposed part by infrared spectrometry revealed 1525, 1432, 1080, 883, 670, 553, and 483 cm–1 absorbance peaks, characteristic of serpentinized marble.
The serpentinized marble’s yellow weathered skin and grainy texture could have easily been mistaken for jadeite rough. This serves as an alert to the industry to be careful even when examining rough, as imitations are showing up. Source: GIA @topic:12


Title: Rose Quartz History and Lore Abstract: Quartz crystals were valued by the ancient Egyptians as talismans with powers to prevent aging. - Bob Kammerling

                      Rose quartz beads dating back to 7000 BC have been found in the area once known as Mesopotamia (today’s Iraq). Rose quartz jewelry was known to be crafted by the Assyrians around 800-600 BC. The Assyrians, along with the Romans, might have been the first to use this stone.

People in the earliest recorded times believed in the magical powers of quartz. Ancient Roman, Egyptian, and Greek civilizations used quartz crystals as potent talismans. The Romans used rose quartz as a seal to signify ownership, and Egyptians believed the stone could prevent aging.

	The soft blush of rose quartz endeared the gem to early civilizations. Its rosy hue continues to appeal to modern jewelry lovers. – Bart Curren, courtesy Commercial Minerals
In the Middle Ages, medical practitioners used quartz in their healing potions. Early cultures of the Americas used quartz amulets. Known as the “love stone,” it was said to balance the emotions and to heal anger and disappointment.

	A quartz bead is the featured stone in this ancient Egyptian necklace. The strand
	consists of emerald, amethyst, and gold faience (a glazed ceramic). – Robert Weldon,
	on loan from the Royal Ontario Museum, Toronto, Canada Source: GIA @topic:1


Title: Kunzite History and Lore Abstract: George Frederick Kunz

                      Kunzite is a relative newcomer to the array of colored stones available for use in jewelry. As the story goes, specimens of an as-yet-unidentified pink crystal were found in San Diego County, California, and sent to Tiffany & Co.’s mineralogist, George Frederick Kunz. The year was 1902. Kunz was able to confirm that the crystals were, in fact, spodumene, but the previously unrecognized color made the find a new variety of the mineral.

	This photograph of a kunzite crystal was taken by George F. Kunz, the pioneering gemologist the gem is named after. - Courtesy USGS
Charles Baskerville, a chemistry professor at the University of North Carolina and later the City College of New York, subsequently named kunzite in honor of George Kunz in 1903.

	This photograph shows Charles Baskerville’s historic collection of kunzite crystals. - Wendell Wilson
In the years since, kunzite has proven to be a highly desirable gem. Occurring in attractive shades of pink to violet, kunzite crystals are also often large, with relatively few inclusions. Though difficult to cut due to its two cleavage directions, it lends itself to lovely finished gems that show magnificently in fine jewelry.

	This lovely pendant features a pear-shaped kunzite with a diamond accent. - Robert Weldon, courtesy The Greenwood Group Source: GIA @topic:1


Title: Secrets of a Master Gem Cutter Abstract: Michael M. DyberLedge Art Studio

	Interview with Michael M. Dyber, Ledge Art Studio
It may not be too much of a stretch to compare what Michelangelo did with marble and Rodin did with bronze to what Michael Dyber does with gemstone. For more than two decades, former plumber, welder and jewelry store-owner Dyber has been dazzling the world with his brilliant stone carvings ranging from sizes that fit in the palm of the hand to 12-lb quartz behemoths that can dominate a room.

Dyber is every bit the artist as legend would have it. He started sculpting gemstones without prior training, money, or reputation, and within two years had announced himself on the world stage at the Idar-Oberstein, Germany, precious stone carving competition, where he became the first American to be so highly recognized. His relentless drive to reinvent himself to keep ahead of his imitators has led Dyber to such gem-carving breakthroughs as his “Dyber Optic Dishes,” where concave impressions on the pavilions of his materials create illusions of impossible images in his works.

Dyber loves the challenge of working with exotic two-color ametrine and four-color quartz with handmade tools fashioned from commonplace raw material found around his house. In this video he offers his secrets on turning carpenter nails into drills and beech trees into wheels to approximate the tools carvers used centuries ago.

In the video Dyber also provides valuable insights on the modern colored stone market, wisdom on what makes an artist, and sage advice for the creative soul wherever its aspirations lead. The 2013 Tucson Gem Show where this interview took place gave us the opportunity to tap into the mind of one of the unique talents in modern art, and it is with great pride that we present it here. Source: GIA @topic:7


Title: Fall 2005 G&G Book Reviews Abstract: “Shinde Jewels”
By Reema Keswani, 79 pp., illus., publ. by Assouline Publishing, New York, 2004. US$18.95

“The History of Beads: From 30,000 B.C. To the Present”
By Lois Sherr Dubin, 364 pp., illus., publ. by Harry N. Abrams, New York, 2004. US$29.95

“Totems to Turquoise: Native North American Jewelry Arts of the Northwest and Southwest”
Edited by Kari Chalker, Lois S. Dubin, and Peter M. Whiteley, 224 pp., illus., publ. in association with the American Museum of Natural History by Harry N. Abrams, New York, 2004. US$45.00

“Exploration Criteria for Coloured Gemstone Deposits In the Yukon”
By Lori Walton, 184 pp., illus., publ. by the Yukon Geological Survey, Whitehorse, Canada, 2004. C$5.00 (no charge for PDF version). www.geology.gov.yk.ca

“The Pegmatite Mines Known as Palermo”
By Robert W. Whitmore and Robert C. Lawrence Jr., 213 pp., illus., published by The Friends of Palermo Mines, 2004. US$150.00

“Tourmalines of Malkhan”
By V. Ye. Zagorsky, I. S. Peretyazhko, and V. Ye. Kushnaryov, 31 pp., illus., publ. by the Institute of Geochemistry, Russian Academy of Sciences (Siberian Division) and Tourmalkhan Co., Irkutsk, Russia, 2005. US$20.00 (E- mail: victzag@igc.irk.ru)

“Gemstones: Quality and Value, Volume 1”
By Yasukazu Suwa, 143 pp., illus., publ. by Sekai Bunka Publishing, Tokyo (revised English edition), 2005. US$99.95

To view the full section, download the PDF above. Source: GIA @topic:7


Title: Winter 2002 G&G Book Reviews Abstract: “The Master Jewelers”
By A. Kenneth Snowman, Ed., 262 pp., illus., publ. by Thames & Hudson Inc., New York, 2002. US$29.95

“20th Century Jewelry: The Complete Source Book”
By John Peacock, 144 pp., illus., publ. by Thames & Hudson Inc., New York, 2002. US$34.95

“Louis Comfort Tiffany at Tiffany & Co.”
By John Loring, 255 pp., illus., publ. by Harry N. Abrams, New York, 2002. US$60.00

“The Love of Stones”
By Tobias Hill, 396 pp., publ. by Picador USA, New York, 2001, US$25.00

To view the full section, download the PDF above. Source: GIA @topic:6


Title: 2019 GSA Annual Meeting Abstract: Figure 1. Presenters and session hosts from the gemology session at the 2019 GSA annual meeting. Front row, left to right: Sarah Steele, Dr. Christopher M. Breeding, Kyaw Soe Moe, and Rachelle Turnier. Back row: Dr. Evan Smith, William Aertker, Dr. Aaron Palke, Dr. Sally Eaton-Magaña, Roy Bassoo, Dr. Wuyi Wang, Samuel Martin, Dr. Jim Shigley, and Dr. John Valley. Photo by Tao Hsu.

The Geological Society of America (GSA) annual meeting took place in Phoenix, Arizona, September 22–25. GIA participated in the exhibition and hosted speaker and poster sessions that attracted great attention on gemology among the geoscience community (figure 1).
The talks started with research by Dr. Tingting Gu (formerly with GIA) on lower-mantle inclusions trapped in a type IaB diamond. The study identified inclusions of hydrous ringwoodite, ferropericlase, and enstatite (a back-transformation product of bridgmanite). This was the first evidence of them occurring together at this depth of the earth, which will help to unravel the pyrolytic nature of the 660 km discontinuity. The study was presented by co-author Dr. Wuyi Wang  (GIA). Dr. Sally Eaton-Magaña  (GIA) presented a detailed study of natural radiation stains in diamonds. Temperature-controlled experiments revealed that the stains’ color changes from green to olive green at about 400°C and then to brown at about 550–600°C. Color-changing rates of different related defects were then carefully calculated. This study provides needed information about the reliability of using radiation stain color to identify diamond color as either natural or treated. Graduate student Roy Bassoo (Baylor University) put forward a source study of Guyana diamonds mined from alluvial gravels in the Amazon rainforest. Several possible primary diamond sources were proposed, and multiple advanced analytical methods were used on rough diamond crystals. Detrital zircon dating ruled out West Africa as a potential source. Inclusion and isotopic data suggest that these diamonds are of upper-mantle peridotite paragenesis, with a subpopulation of eclogite paragenesis and an undiscovered kimberlite source that still needs to be identified. Dr. Evan Smith (GIA) shared the characteristics of the newly discovered nickel sulfide mineral crowningshieldite (α-NiS). This mineral was found as inclusions in a so-called CLIPPIR diamond (Cullinan-like, Large, Inclusion-Poor, Pure, Irregular, and Resorbed) that came from 350–750 km below the earth’s surface. Crowningshieldite features one Ni atom connected to six sulfur atoms, while the known β-NiS features one connecting to five.
Dr. Christopher M. Breeding (GIA) discussed the rarity and color causes of orange diamonds. Orange diamonds account for only 2.4% of all colored diamonds, based on GIA’s intake database. Single substitutional nitrogen and the 480 nm band are the two major mechanisms responsible for this rare color. Of the two, the 480 nm absorption band is not well understood and has been proposed to be composed of substitutional oxygen atoms in the diamond lattice. At low concentration this defect causes yellow color, while at high concentration the color shifts to orange. Diamonds with this defect can also be heated to temporarily change their color to orange. Kyaw Soe Moe  (GIA) continued the discussion on the 480 nm band using the study results of a bicolor diamond. The 480 nm band was detected only in the brown-orange portion of this diamond. An interesting find was that the fluorescence image and optical image of this color zone do not match, which indicates that the 480 nm band caused color zoning that does not align with growth zones. This observation suggests that the defect causing the 480 nm absorption formed or penetrated the diamond after its growth. The authors proposed that the defect consists of localized vacancy clusters, in addition to other previously proposed possibilities.
Following a series of diamond presentations, the talks continued with colored gemstone discussions. Graduate student Samuel Martin (Brigham Young University) presented a geochemical comparison study of sapphires from Bingham Canyon in Utah and from Yogo Gulch, Montana. Although the two sapphire populations were formed 10 million years apart, they do broadly share the same trace element signatures, and both contain silica melt inclusions. Oxygen isotope study of both suggests that they have different protoliths, with Bingham Canyon sapphires as a mixture of multiple populations in the Bingham magma system. The study proposed that sapphires from both sources have been produced through partial melting of Al-rich rocks. Graduate student Rachelle Turnier  (University of Wisconsin–Madison) shared her research on the genesis of basalt-related gem corundum with zircon inclusions in samples from nine different sources around the globe. Through a combination of element mapping, growth texture imaging, zircon geochronology, apparent pressure estimation, oxygen isotope study, and in situ geochemical analyses, variations were revealed among these deposits, which have generally been grouped in a single category. PhD candidate William Aertker (Colorado School of Mines) discussed the genesis of metasomatic sapphire from the Whitehorn stock metamorphic aureole in central Colorado. Sapphires occur within a ductile shear zone that experienced contact metamorphism. Extensive evidence suggests that desilication was not the only process involved in corundum formation. Element exchange must have happened at the same time, and ductile shearing facilitated fluid channeling to facilitate this exchange process, known as metasomatism. Retired geologist Charles Breitsprecher (California State University, Sacramento) presented a self-funded field investigation of sunstone from three mines in southeast Oregon. The occurrence and regional geology were discussed. Gemologist and professional lapidary Sarah Steele talked about her archaeogemological and chemistry study on gem-quality jet, including its use since the Upper Paleolithic and the market for it today. The author’s analyses found 33 different hydrocarbons and biopolymers that are used as gems, which goes beyond the current commonly used definition for jet. Dr. Aaron Palke  (GIA) closed the session with a presentation on the newly recognized mineral johnkoivulaite (Cs[Be2B]Mg2Si6O18), named in honor of renowned GIA researcher John Koivula. This new member of the beryl group was discovered in Mogok, an area full of opportunities to expand the mineral family. Due to its special structure, johnkoivulaite does not contain as much water as other members of the beryl group.

Figure 2. GSA poster presenters shared their latest research. Photo by Tao Hsu.
This year’s poster session featured five presenters (figure 2). Dr. Qishen Zhou (China University of Geosciences, Wuhan) presented two posters, on the results of colored diamond and sapphire auctions, respectively. Dr. Zhou and his team collected more than 50,000 auction results over the past decade. These results are representative of the global auction sector, including the Chinese domestic auction sector, which is not well known to the rest of the industry. The colored diamond study poster focused on pink and blue diamonds. Both studies explored the relationship between auction results and the quality factors of the stones. The authors found that color largely determines colored diamonds’ auction prices, while both color and carat weight have a high impact on sapphire. Dr. Aaron Palke (GIA) delivered research on rare rubies found in blue sapphire–dominant deposits. The study compared sapphires and rarely encountered rubies from four different sources. Geochemical results indicate that the trace element Cr, which causes the red color, behaves quite independently of the other trace elements. However, trace elements other than Cr share similarity between sapphires and rubies from the same deposit, which was also supported by inclusion scenes. Paul Johnson (GIA) displayed an interesting research project on melee-size HPHT lab-grown diamonds, which have a different crystal shape from large crystals made with the same method. The authors used element mapping of nickel to reveal the growth structure of these small diamonds. The results indicated multiple growth stages of the small lab-grown diamonds, which explained their elongated crystal shape. Garrett McElhenny (GIA) presented a study on type IIa pink diamonds. The author studied a suite of 30 samples with inclusions using Raman spectroscopy. The inclusions identified were mainly of sublithospheric origin. The existence of sublithospheric inclusions again proved that these diamonds came from the sublithospheric mantle.
The 2020 GSA annual meeting is scheduled for October 25–28 in Montreal. Source: GIA @topic:7


Title: Fall 2003 G&G Book Reviews Abstract: “The Eras of the Diamond”
By Jules Roger Sauer, publ. by Amsterdam Sauer, Rio de Janeiro, Brazil, 2003, price available on request. E-mail: julessauer@amsterdamsauer.com

“Jadeite Jade, A Stone & A Culture”
By Chiu Mei Ou Yang, 184 pp., illus., publ. by the Hong Kong Institute of Gemmology, 2003. US$45.00

“Pegmatology: Pegmatite Mineralogy, Petrology and Petrogenesis”
By William “Skip” Simmons, Karen L. Webber, Alexander U. Falster, and James W. Niamoff, 176 pp., illus., publ. by Rubellite Press, New Orleans, LA, 2003. US$47.50

“At the Bench: An Illustrated Guide to Working with Gold & Silver”
By Gregg Todd and Greg Gilman, 116 pp., illus., publ. by MJSA/AJM Press, Providence, RI, 2002, US$28.50

“Auction Market Resource”
June 2003, Vol. 10, No. 1. Publ. by Gail Brett Levine, P.O. Box 7683, Rego Park, NY 11374-7683. Tel: 718-897-7305. Available by subscription: $195.00 in the U.S., $250.00 elsewhere

To view the full section, download the PDF above. Source: GIA @topic:10


Title: Summer 2012 G&G Book Reviews Abstract: “Cartier at Prague Castle: The Power of Style”
By the Prague Castle Administration, 322 pp., illus., publ. by Flammarion, Paris, 2010. US$49.95

“Lapis Lazuli: In Pursuit of a Celestial Stone”
By Sarah Searight, 228 pp., soft cover, illus., publ. by East and West Publishing Ltd., London, 2010. US$42.00

“Russian Alexandrites”
By Karl Schmetzer, with contributions from George Bosshart, Marina Epelboym, Lore Kiefert, and Anna Kathrin Malsy, 141 pp., illus., publ. by Schweizerbart Science Publishers, Stuttgart, Germany, 2010. US$49.90

“Sacred & Symbolic: Ancient India and the Lure of Its Diamonds”
By Hugh Durey, 190 pp., illus., publ. by the author, www.hughdurey.com, 2010. US$79.00

“Understanding Rough Gemstones”
By Shyamala Fernandes and Gagan Choudhary, 213 pp., illus., publ. by the Indian Institute of Jewelry, Mumbai, 2010. US$25.00

To view the full section, download the PDF above. Source: GIA @topic:10


Title: Winter 1985 G&G Book Reviews Abstract: “Gem Cutting: A Lapidary's Manual”
By John Sinkankas, 365 pp., illus., publ. by Van Nostrand Reinhold Co., New York, NY, 1984. US$46.95

“Jade for You: Value Guide to Fine-Quality Jade”
By John Y. Ng and Edmond Root, 107 pp., illus., Jade LV Gem Corp., Los Angeles, CA, 1984. US$49.95

“Gems and Jewels: A Connoisseur's Guide”
By Benjamin Zucker, 248 pp., illus., publ. by Thames and Hudson, New York, NY, 1984. US$50.00

“Manual of Mineralogy (After James D. Dana)”
By Cornelis Klein and Cornelius S.Hurlburt, Jr., 596 pp., illus., publ. by John Wiley & Sons, New York, NY, 1985. US$35.95

“The Barakat Gallery: A Catalogue of the Collection”
Vol. I, 319 pp., illus., publ. by The Barakat Gallery, Beverly Hills, CA, 1985.

“Benitoite: California State Gemstone”
By G. D. Louderback, 76 pp., illus., publ. by Gemmary, Redondo Beach, CA, 1985. US$5.00 Source: GIA @topic:10


Title: Blue Zircon Reportedly from Malawi Abstract: This suite of zircons, reportedly from Malawi, shows unheated brown starting material, examples of rough material after heat treatment, and six examples of faceted stones (the largest stone weighs 7.70 ct). Photo by Diego Sanchez; courtesy of Phoenix Gems.
Blue zircon is perhaps best known from Cambodia, with most if not all of the material recovered as brown stones that turn blue upon heating. Recently, Brent Smith of Phoenix Gems supplied us with a parcel of rough and cut zircons (see above) reportedly from a new deposit in Malawi. According to Smith, the mine is located in southern Malawi, near Maripa in the district of Chikwawa. The Michigan-based Phoenix Gems is in partnership with Malawi locals Jepther Ngwira and Matthias Chimbuto, who oversee mining. Heat treating and cutting operations are handled by Smith in the United States. Smith also reported that fewer than 10 kg of material has been produced to date, much of which he has heat treated using a proprietary process to produce a range of blue and some bicolor blue and colorless stones. So far, only about 20 stones have been faceted.
Gemological testing revealed properties consistent with blue zircon, including a refractive index that was over the limit of the RI liquid (with a value of 1.81), a hydrostatic SG of 4.52, and a handheld visible spectrum typical for zircon, with the most prominent feature being a sharp absorption line visible at about 654 nm. Exposing the rough blue stones to long-wave ultraviolet light for more than 90 seconds did not induce any UV reaction or obvious change in color, as has been previously reported in blue zircon (N. Renfro, “Reversible color modification of blue zircon by long-wave ultraviolet irradiation,” Fall 2016 G&G, pp. 246–251). Microscopic examination revealed minute needle-like inclusions, partially healed fractures, and prominent blue and colorless zoning, although the stones were relatively free of inclusions. The unpolarized ultraviolet/visible/near-infrared (UV-Vis-NIR) spectrum consisted of a broad absorption band centered at approximately 640 nm, which is the cause of the observed blue color and is seen in the absorption spectrum of blue zircons from other localities. Laser ablation–inductively coupled plasma–mass spectrometry (LA-ICP-MS) chemical analysis confirmed the bulk composition was consistent with zircon, and major trace elements included the rare earth elements yttrium and hafnium as well as transition metals titanium and scandium.
In all, this new source of blue zircon reportedly from Malawi has the potential to yield some beautiful finished stones and is a welcome addition to the gem trade. Source: GIA @topic:1


Title: Tourmaline and Sapphire from Nigeria Abstract: Figure 1. High-quality rubellite rough is highly sought after in the Asian market. Photo by Eric Welch/GIA, courtesy of Zoe Michelou.

	Zoe Michelou, marketing manager for a Nigerian mining company, gave an update in Tucson on the production of gemstones, particularly tourmaline. She primarily handles sales and marketing of rubellite from Oyo State, where there are around 350 pits. There are usually 10 to 15 miners per pit. The miners descend 10 to 20 meters by ladder to the bottom of a pit, and then the pegmatites are blasted and tunneled before extraction. Some tunnels are linked when production overlaps, improving air circulation. Pits can be very close together, although some larger open-pit operations have excavators in the pits and carts to remove the ore. Rubellite is concentrated in pockets within the pegmatites. There are plans to increase mechanization and redesign tunnel orientation and air circulation, thus increasing blasting cycles and production, and new pockets are being discovered.

	Miners are provided with food and tools, as well as by profit sharing based on the value of the production. There are plans to include a salary, health care, and a bonus on production. Sometimes miners can recover one ton of rubellite from a large pocket. Large single crystals can easily reach 18 kg or more. The rubellite is kept in a safe and then transported to the city of Ibadan for grading every two to three weeks, depending on production. Currently there are only three to four quality categories. Most of the material is now shipped to Bangkok for final grading and sale. A new facility is planned to perform the final grading in Nigeria, with training of locals to create parcels for international clientele. Many of the rubellite crystals sent to Bangkok weigh 1 kg or more.

	There are also alluvial deposits where rubellite pebbles can be recovered without moving too much earth. In Kwara State there is a significant production of indicolite and green tourmaline, including some pink and bicolor. Most of the mining is still near the surface, with a few deeper pits. The first production of indicolite tourmaline sent to Bangkok had crystals of 2–34 grams ranging from commercial to very high quality.

	Currently, the Nigerian company is focused on selling rough rubellite (figure 1) through the Bangkok office and trade shows to the international market, especially in East Asia. The clients are mainly rough dealers and manufacturers from China, Hong Kong, and Thailand. This year, the company will start a training program for grading at the mining site in Nigeria. In the future, rough will be sorted and graded prior to shipment to Bangkok.

	The parent company that Michelou represents has acquired 1,000 square kilometers for sapphire exploration, prospecting, and mining licenses in the Mambilla Plateau area of Taraba State. Nigeria has produced large quantities of fine-quality basalt-related sapphires. Extraction should start by late spring, with sales expected by the end of 2017 or beginning of 2018. They will only sell rough sapphires in selected markets. The initial washing plant will be able to handle 50 tons of ore per hour. Good-quality material weighing 3 to 5 grams is already being recovered. Security will be tight, and dealers from the Cameroon side of the border currently buying from unlicensed miners have already been restricted from the commercial mining area. Transparent supply from the mine to rough markets is an important part of the marketing strategy. The company will soon implement a detailed grading system for rough sapphires.

	The company primarily sells rough but also sells some cut stones to manufacturing jewelers worldwide. Michelou sees an increase in manufacturing jewelers buying rough, including tourmaline and sapphire, and having it cut instead of just purchasing finished stones. By doing so, they can guarantee traceability of the stones all the way to the customer.

Figure 2. A sampling of Nigerian indicolites after fashioning. Photo by Eric Welch/GIA, courtesy of Zoe Michelou. Source: GIA @topic:1


Title: Meeting of the International Mineralogical Association Abstract: The 22nd meeting of the International Mineralogical Association (IMA), the first held in Australia and only the second in the Southern Hemisphere, took place in the Melbourne Convention and Exhibition Centre August 13–17, 2018. The meeting was hosted by the Geological Society of Australia.
Two technical sessions on gems were presented to about 100 attendees. The August 13 session, “Sciences Behind Gemstone Treatments,” was chaired by Andy Shen (China University of Geosciences, Wuhan) and Pornsawat Wathanakul (Gem and Jewelry Institute of Thailand). The second day’s session, titled “Recent Advances in Our Understanding of Gem Minerals” and led by Ian Graham (University of New South Wales, Australia), Lee Groat (University of British Columbia, Canada), and Gaston Giuliani (University of Lorraine, France), is detailed below.
The session consisted of 18 oral presentations covering several gem topics. Frederick Sutherland (Australian Museum, Sydney) opened with a keynote talk on the diversity in the geochemistry and inclusions of ruby from Myanmar and eastern Australia. He also discussed the ages of ruby formation through zircon ages and the P-T conditions through inclusion assemblages.
The other talks concerned different types of gems from supergene minerals up to corundum and spinel, including mining discoveries and activities from ancient and modern ages. Ruslan Kostov (Sofia University of Mining and Geology, Bulgaria) presented the archeological mineralogy of the Balkans through prehistoric (7 to 5 million BCE) gem minerals (nephrite, jadeite, talc, gabbros, jasper, and turquoise) and gold. Lee Groat revealed recent advances in colored gemstones in Canada, focusing on emerald from Yukon and blue spinel, sapphire, and scapolite from Baffin Island, as well as the use of different techniques such as drones for exploration. Peter Lyckberg (Luxembourg) offered a detailed state-of-the art presentation on the mining of gem pegmatites in Afghanistan and Pakistan, with amazing photos of aquamarine, kunzite, indicolite, and spessartine crystals from deposits in the High Karakoram range. Wim Vertriest (GIA, Bangkok) discussed the dynamics of gemstone discoveries and the challenges for research on the basis of timing the life of a deposit and the market perception of the gems’ quality.
Different techniques for source determination of gems were also presented. Hao Wang (SSEF, Basel, Switzerland) related the advances in origin determination for gems using inductively coupled plasma time-of-flight (ICP-TOF) spectroscopy, with applications for blue sapphires and emeralds. Zhiqing Zhang (China University of Geosciences, Wuhan) used Fourier-transform infrared (FTIR) characteristics of amber from different areas of the world for origin determination. Allan Pring (Flinders University, Adelaide, Australia) related the use of multiple techniques on 200 opal samples of various origins, showing their similarities and differences. Kemela Wijayanti (Padjadjaran University, Indonesia) combined petrographic analysis with scanning electron microscopy (SEM) and X-ray fluorescence (XRF) techniques to characterize green jasper from southern Java. Peter Downes (Western Australian Museum, Perth) applied multiple techniques on variscite and associated phosphate minerals from the Mt. Deverell deposits in the Gascoyne region of Western Australia. Isabella Pignatelli (University of Lorraine) reported on the use of electron microprobe analysis, SEM, and X-ray tomographic images for characterizing trapiche ruby from Luc Yen in northern Vietnam.
New studies combining fieldwork with mineralogy and geochemistry were presented for several types of gems. Philippe Belley (University of British Columbia) discussed advances in trace-element fingerprinting for blue spinel and new insights into the origin of cobalt-blue spinel from Baffin Island in Canada. This author gave an update on gem demantoid garnet from Madagascar’s Antetezambato deposit, based on new field data, and geochemical analysis of the most important demantoid deposits worldwide. Simon Pecover (Pan Gem Resources) coupled tectonic, hydrodynamic, rheologic, and shear-induced crystallization processes in the formation of opal veins in Australia, showing that the genetic model for the formation of Australian opal is more complex than previously known. Ahmadjan Abduriyim (Tokyo Gem Science) used the U/Pb method on zircon inclusions for determining the formation ages of sapphires from the New England fields in New South Wales. Kandy Wang (University of New South Wales) presented data obtained on ruby from Paranesti, Greece, specifying the geographic typing of ruby via oxygen isotopes and trace elements. Nick Raffan, also of the University of New South Wales, combined fieldwork with remote sensing, petrographic analysis, and SEM to decipher the source of sapphires near tertiary volcanic plugs and Devonian conglomerates from Tomahawk Creek in central Queensland. Ian Graham related the presence of unusual alluvial sapphires from Orosmayo in Argentina using a multi-analytical approach to uncover their origin.
This session was followed by an evening meeting at the Gemmological Association of Australia (GAA) House in Melbourne, under the direction of Margaret Blood, president of the GAA’s Victorian Division, and organized by Andy Shen and Pornsawat Wathanakul. The meeting was open to all researchers who participated in the two gem sessions of IMA and to Australian gemologists. The meeting consisted of three hour-long talks by this author on Colombian emeralds, Lee Groat on spinel and sapphire from Baffin Island, and Brendan Laurs (Journal of Gemmology) on pegmatites of Namibia. Source: GIA @topic:1


Title: Colorful Chatoyant Glass Abstract: Starburst Stone is a colorful new devitrified glass, reminiscent of the product once marketed as Victoria Stone. Photo by Kevin Schumacher; courtesy of Australian Rough and Tumble.

This year at the Tucson gem shows, this author encountered an interesting new product of chatoyant devitrified glass (glass that has converted to a crystalline material) marketed as “Starburst Stone.” This material (see above) closely resembles the chatoyant glass known as Victoria Stone, which was developed in Japan by Dr. Satoyasu Iimori in the 1950s and produced for almost 40 years (http://victoriastone.sakura.ne.jp/JP-30-88-B.pdf).

John Bennett, in partnership with Artur Birkner (both based in Perth, Western Australia), began developing Starburst Stone in 2013, and this is the first year of commercially available production (approximately 100 kilograms). This devitrified glass is made from a chemical mixture that is cooled at a rate to facilitate nucleation and growth of dense networks of elongate lath-like crystals, and each batch of glass is colored by the addition of certain metals. Darker blues are achieved by adding cobalt, lighter blue by adding copper, and green by adding chromium to the glass mixture.

Standard gemological testing revealed properties consistent with manufactured glass. The RI was between 1.51 and 1.52 and varied slightly between the different colors tested. The average SG, measured hydrostatically, was 2.62. Raman analysis identified the devitrification product responsible for the chatoyancy as apatite, which was also responsible for the chatoyancy in the devitrified glass product known as Victoria stone.

Dark and light blue, green, and golden Starburst Stones are being manufactured, with additional colors in development. This new ornamental glass showing chatoyancy is a welcome addition to the gem trade. Those interested in the material once sold as Victoria Stone will certainly appreciate this very similar phenomenal glass product. Source: GIA @topic:3


Title: An Inside Look at the 2016 Tucson Shows Abstract: Assorted goods in calibrated sizes sold very well at the shows. Photo by Tao Hsu.

	Every year in February, colored stone miners, dealers, cutters, and retailers from around the world converge at the several major gem and mineral shows in Tucson, Arizona. In 2016, GIA once again interviewed industry professionals who presented spectacular gems and provided revealing insights on the global market. Links to these interviews are listed below.

GILC 2016
	A report from the International Colored Gemstone Association’s Gemstone Industry & Laboratory Conference (GILC), held in Tucson, Arizona on February 1, 2016.
Read more

Wheel of Light’s Mesmerizing Optics
	A closer look at the Spectrum award-winning pendant from Nature’s Geometry.
Read more

Paula Crevoshay’s American Collection, Plus Jewelry with Nontraditional Gemstones
	Lesser-known gem materials are seen in pieces alongside a collection created as an artistic inheritance for future generations of jewelry fans.
Read more

Jewelry Television in Tucson
	A look at JTV’s history, current activities, and impact on the industry.
Read more

Update on the Scorpion Tsavorite Mine
	A look at the resumed operations and new production of Kenya’s Scorpion tsavorite mine.
Read more

Imperial Flame Topaz Sculpture
	An Imperial topaz rough crystal is carved into a stunning freeform gem.
Read more

Fordite from the Corvette Assembly Plant
	Freeform fordite accumulated from a now-defunct method of painting automobiles was on display at Tucson.
Read more

Rare Emerald from China and Pink Sapphire from Sri Lanka
	An emerald from a largely unexplored Chinese deposit is seen at Tucson, along with a pink sapphire recut after removal from a necklace.
Read more

Afghan Emerald, Tajik Ruby, and Clarity-Enhanced Tourmaline
	Updates on Afghan and Tajik materials, as well as treatment options to improve the clarity of various types of tourmaline.
Read more Source: GIA @topic:7


Title: Shane McClure Abstract: Many of GIA’s most influential leaders, past and present, have become synonymous with the world of gemology. Such is the case for Shane McClure, recently named the global director of colored stone services. In the 37 years since he joined GIA, McClure has become an internationally recognized authority in the field of gem identification.

	A native Californian, McClure began his career at the Institute as a staff gemologist in the downtown Los Angeles laboratory shortly after earning his GG at the Santa Monica campus in 1978. There, he co-founded the identification services department in 1980. He rose through the ranks, supervising and then managing identification services before assuming the role of director of West Coast identification services in 1999. Among the developments that took place under his tenure was the issuance of clarity enhancement reports in natural emerald (starting in 2000), the identification of new treatments and composite techniques, and steps toward clearer nomenclature for corundum, jade, turquoise, and many other gem materials.

	Over the past few decades, McClure has built a reputation as a knowledgeable speaker who lectures around the world on gemological issues. He has authored or co-authored numerous articles on topics such as the diffusion treatment of corundum, the identification of bleached and polymer-impregnated  “B” jade, Zachery-treated turquoise and classifying emerald clarity enhancement. To date, he has authored 29 articles for Gems & Gemology, 15 of which have won the journal’s Most Valuable Article award. Notable G&G articles include articles fracture-filled diamonds with Robert Kammerling, identification of lead-glass-filled rubies (winner of the AGS Liddicoat Journalism Award in 2006), and gemstone enhancement and detection in both the 1990s and 2000s. He has also served as the journal’s Lab Notes editor since 1997.

	McClure is also an exceptional gemstone and jewelry photographer who utilizes both macro- and photomicrography in his work. His work has illustrated numerous articles, including those on the Dresden Green diamond and lead glass–filled rubies. His photograph of an emerald rosary, recovered from the Nuestra Señora de Atocha shipwreck, graced the cover of G&G’s Winter 1989 issue.

	For his efforts in the field of gemology, he was named GIA’s Staff of the Year member in 1989, and presented with the AGA’s Antonio Bonnano Award for Excellence in 2007.  While his contributions to the industry are myriad, no one can doubt that his work is a labor of love. In his own words, “I love what I’m doing…it’s an ever-changing job, and it keeps me interested.” Source: GIA @topic:7


Title: Demantiod from the Green Dragon Mine Abstract: Stephan ReifSales Executive, Green Dragon Mine

Interview with Stephan Reif, Sales Executive, Green Dragon Mine
Mr. Reif came to the Tucson Gem Show to promote his mine’s product: demantoid garnet, “one of the rarest stones alive.”

His excitement is obvious as he talks about the Green Dragon Mine, located in Central Namibia. It was discovered by accident when a Namibian goat-herder stumbled on some green crystals in the dirt.

The Green Dragon is an open-pit mine, with a crushing plant and sorting house on-site. Its desert location means they have to bring in water from outside, limiting their ability to put the ore through a density separation step, which instead is performed carefully by hand. They also have to live with the desert’s punishing temperature extremes.

With no clear indication where the “good stuff” is hiding, Green Dragon miners depend on a combination of instinct and geological knowledge to find the richest pockets. Mine yield—between 5,000 and 10,000 carats—is mostly melee, small gems measured in millimeters.  Half-carat finished stones are rare; over a carat, very rare.

Turning to his stones, he shows some samples of cut demantoids, including melee rounds and a selection of larger, square-shaped brilliants. He holds them to the light to show how their color and cut are just right for displaying a lot of fire. He also has a selection of what he calls “army-colored” demantoids—sort of a brownish green—that are very popular with his clients.

The mine’s social responsibility to its workers includes a housing program: Some of what the mine earns goes into a fund to help workers and their families find proper housing. The mine is visited periodically by government and environmental regulators to check on how they treat their employees, ensure blasting safety, maintain their mining claim status, etc.

Green Dragon markets its demantoids on US home-shopping TV stations, to high-end European and Swiss consumers, and to manufacturers in Asia. This beautiful stone appeals to jewelry designers, collectors, and others who love unusual stones. You can tell by Mr. Reif’s enthusiastic tone and delivery that he’s just as excited as everyone else about its beauty and potential. Source: GIA @topic:1


Title: Summer 2003 G&G Book Reviews Abstract: “Krystallos—Brazil: Gem-Crystals in Design”
By Sonia Fonseca and Norman M. Rodi, Eds., 178 pp., illus., publ. by Terra das Artes Editora, São Paolo, Brazil, 2002. US$120.00

“The Fabergé Menagerie”
Organized by the Walters Art Museum, Baltimore, MD, in cooperation with the Fabergé Arts Foundation, Washington, DC, 192 pp., illus., publ. by Philip Wilson Publishers, London, 2003. US$25.00

“The Great Book of Amber”
By Elz.bieta Mierzwin ́ ska, photos by Marek Zak, 160 pp., distrib. in the U.S., Canada, and Australia by Amber#1, San Francisco, CA, 2002. US$45.00

“The Rings Book”
By Jinks McGrath, 128 pp., illus., publ. by Krause Publications, Iola, WI, 2003. US$24.95

“The Ultimate Orient: Philippine South Sea Pearls”
Photography by Scott Tuason, 175 pp., publ. by Jewelmer International Corp., Makati City, Philippines, 2001, US$65.00

To view the full section, download the PDF above. Source: GIA @topic:6


Title: Spring 1998 G&G Book Reviews Abstract: “Cultured Pearls: The First Hundred Years”
By Andy Müller for Golay Buchel, 142 pp., illus., publ. by The Golay Buchel Group, Lausanne, Switzerland, 1997. US$60.00

“Dana’s New Minerology, 8th Edition”
Rewritten by Richard V. Gaines, H. Catherine Skinner, Eugene E. Foord, Brian Mason, and Abraham Rosenzweig, 1,874 pp., illus., publ. by John Wiley & Sons, New York, 1997. US$250.00

“Mineral Collector’s Handbook”
By Barry Krause, 192 pp., illus., publ. by Sterling Publishing Company, New York, 1996. US$24.95

“Gemme del Vicentino (Gems of Vicenza)”
By Matteo Boscardin and Ottaviano Violati Tescari, 114 pp., illus., publ. by Zannato Civic Museum, Montecchio Maggiore, 1996, US$14.00 (in Italian, with English summary)

To view the full section, download the PDF above. Source: GIA @topic:10


Title: Summer 1990 G&G Book Reviews Abstract: “Encyclopedia of Minerals, 2nd Edition, December 1989”
By Willard L. Roberts, Thomas J. Campbell, and George R. Rapp, Jr., 979 pp., illus., publ. by Van Nostrand Reinhold, New York, 1989. US$99.95

“Black Pearls of Tahiti”
By Dr. Jean-Paul Lintilhac, photographs by Alain Durand, 116 pp., illus., publ., by Royal Tahitian Pearl Book, Papeete, Tahiti, 1987. US$39.95

“Gem Identification Made Easy: A Hands-On Guide to More Confident Buying and Selling”
By Antoinette L. Matlins and A. C. Bonanno, 270 pp., illus., publ. by Gemstone Press, South Woodstock, VT, 1989. US$29.95

To view the full section, download the PDF above. Source: GIA @topic:7


Title: Spring 1988 G&G Book Reviews Abstract: “Famous Diamonds”
By Ian Balfour, 244 pp., illus., publ. by William Collins Sons and Co., Ltd., London, 1987. US$34.95

“How to Carve Jade and Gems”
By June Culp Zeitner with Hing Wu Lee, 130 pp., illus., publ. by Northern Gem Press, 1987. US$21.50

“Legendary Gems or Gems That Made History”
By Eric Brulon, 239 pp., illus., Chilton Book Co., Radnor, PA, 1986. US$35.00

To view the full section, download the PDF above. Source: GIA @topic:10


Title: Do Well By Doing Good: Best Business Practices As a Profit Motive Abstract: Andy Bone, director of the Responsible Jewellery Council, discusses three issues the gem and jewelry industry can address to improve business practices. Photo courtesy Responsible Jewellery Council

	Andy Bone readily admits that getting industry players − from local retailers to miners in far-flung gem source areas − to take an active interest in “best business practices” can be a real challenge; especially businesses dealing at a purely local level.

	Bone is the director of the Responsible Jewellery Council, an independent standards-setting organization that promulgates sustainable labor, environmental and trading practices within the gem and jewelry industry. He makes a strong case that these are bottom-line issues for every business, local or not, that his organization can help address.

	Bone comes from a business background – 17 years at De Beers, most recently as its director of international relations – rather than a standards organization like his predecessors, so he understands the bottom line.

	 He likens RJC membership to an insurance policy.

	“Insurance is really managing risk,” he says, in this case from damaging reputational issues instead of fire or theft. “RJC helps cover these risks,” he says, adding that the consequences of failing to address these issues can be very costly today.

	Bone describes the three major risks to the gem and jewelry industry.

	Risk 1: Regulation − Legislation can put costly burdens on legitimate businesses

	“Remember back to the late 1990s when the issue of conflict diamonds came to the fore? We saw a lot of politicians eager to make a name by going after the diamond industry,” he says. “Now, there may be many people in our industry who believe the Kimberley Process [launched in 2000] isn’t relevant to them, but it’s certain that it helped the industry dodge a bullet [of onerous regulation] that saved millions of dollars and thousands of jobs around the world.”

	More recently, he notes, the Conflict Mineral Compliance section of the 2010 Dodd-Frank Wall Street Reform and Consumer Protection Act “would have included diamonds and gems without the industry’s investment in the KP, and the Responsible Jewellery Council, showing that we [the industry] are serious about best business practices.”

	Section 1502 of Dodd-Frank requires extensive reporting and tracking by U.S. businesses that use and trade minerals from areas of conflict, including tin, tungsten and titanium, in order to deter money laundering and financing of activities that can compromise U.S. security or financial institutions. The bill also promotes fair labor and sustainable environmental policies.

	Risk 2: Reputation − diamonds and gems under fire

	He acknowledges that there remains a strong undercurrent from the conflict diamond issue, particularly because synthetic diamond manufacturers are raising the issue and reruns of the “Blood Diamond” movie keep circulating.

	In addition, many think tanks and policy makers have bought into the notion that resources are a curse to many countries because they provide incentives for corruption, civil conflict and environmental damage.

	Finally, the notion that diamonds are a marketing invention without any innate value also continues to circulate.

	“Any of these attacks on our products are a serious business risk,” Bone says. “Particularly today, when it takes only seconds for information to travel around the world, thanks to social media.”

	The RJC helps manage the conversation on these issues, he points out.

	Addressing the so-called “resource curse,” Bone counters that resources are neutral.

	“It’s an issue of governance, not the resource. We can point to Botswana and the prosperity that the diamond industry has brought to what was one of the world’s poorest countries,” he says. “Or look what Norway’s oil reserves have done for that country, with the royalties being used to fund old-age care there.”

	There have been conflicting reports over whether or not the issue of conflict diamonds has dampened consumer demand for them in the U.S. and other Western consumer markets. While many surveys of diamond shoppers say they are not extremely concerned about the issue, Bone doesn’t believe such polls tell the whole story because such shoppers are a tiny minority of the greater population and no one is asking what they think.

	“There’s no sure way of really knowing, but why invite the risk?” he points out. The real point is that membership in the RJC gives companies a strong talking point that they are taking action in a very real way – we can certify the integrity of their supply chains and their own business practices. So, if the issue arises, they can point to the fact that their business operations are fully audited in an open and transparent manner.”

	Bone says that the “marketing invention” notion is something the entire industry needs to address, not just the RJC.

	“On the one hand, yes, diamonds are an invention. But the invention happened 4,000 years ago when people first began valuing them,” says Bone, who also worked in De Beers marketing department in his two decades with the firm. “Today, diamonds have a story − unique attributes that convey things we cannot articulate. And, yes, value is perception and luxury is perception of value. It is all interconnected.”

	Risk 3: Financing – banks obliged to avoid industries that do not practice full disclosure

	The diamond industry already has seen a significant number of lenders leave the industry. Some of this is because many companies do not operate to the degree of transparency required under a set of international regulations known as Basel III.

	Bone again points out that the transparency requirements for joining the RJC offers banks the assurance that their clients are pre-vetted in regard to their business practices, which should make obtaining and keeping financing much easier.

	Bone acknowledges that much of the talk about best practices has focused on “doing the right thing” for its own sake without taking business interests into account.

	“Yes, it’s doing the right thing,” he stresses. “But adhering to these practices makes good commercial sense in today’s environment where information (and misinformation) travels around the world in seconds and governments are growing ever more concerned about the dealings of international businesses large and small.” Source: GIA @topic:9


Title: Designer Shares her Jewelry Inspirations Abstract: Paula CrevoshayJewelry Designer

	Interview with Paula Crevoshay, Jewelry Designer
Paula Crevoshay’s one-woman exhibit of her jewelry designs at the Carnegie Museum in Pittsburgh speaks for her esteemed status in the jewelry world. In this GIA exclusive interview recorded at the 2013 Tucson Gem Show, she speaks for herself and her art in eloquent and compelling detail.

Her exhibit (and companion book), Garden of Light, puts her creations on full, colorful display, and here in the video she talks about her creative process. Holding a bedazzling jeweled butterfly in hand, she explains how she most often begins with a center stone—in this case a raw natural pearl. She meditates on it until a vision begins to take shape and form in her mind. Then she begins to incorporate stones that match in sheen and luster and maximize play of color. Crevoshay is proud to wear the crown of “Queen of Color” that admirers in the jewelry industry have placed on her. It fits, she says, because from the beginning of her career she saw herself as a painter who uses gemstones for her color pallet.

Though much the self-described dreamer, Crevoshay is not without a practical side. She relies on such scientific gemological elements as refractive index and Mohs’ scale in making her fanciful choices. And she is not above substituting, say, a chrome oxide for an emerald in order to make an item more price-friendly for a client.

Still, in the end, Paula Crevoshay is an artist, and holds to the artist’s creed that the most important thing in pursuing a vision is to keep it true to yourself and distinctive from all others. Source: GIA @topic:6


Title: Industry Experts Share Encouraging Advice with Job Seekers Abstract: Students plan their day before the start of “Job Success in Today's Market,” which kicked off the event. Photo by Eric Welch/GIA

                      Act with integrity. Adapt to change. Know what your next job will be. Don’t be afraid to fail.

These are just some of the words of advice offered to job seekers at GIA’s 20th annual Jewelry Career Fair on Oct. 22. The event, held at the Institute’s world headquarters in Carlsbad, is a free, one-day-only opportunity for attendees to connect with companies through panel discussions, one-on-one career coaching sessions and networking. It also included three panel sessions: “Job Success in Today’s Market,” “From Design to Finish” and “Creative Careers.”

Here is some of their best advice:

Alan Bell, managing director of The Bell Group, Inc., shared principles he learned from his father: “It’s not enough to conduct yourself with integrity in the jewelry industry. You must conduct yourself in a manner that leaves no doubt about your integrity. You must always do what you agree to do.”

Douglas Kazanjian, CEO of Kazanjian Bros. Inc., on how to get into the estate jewelry business: “(Look for) the company that has the most turnover of goods. You really want to go in looking for the experience first. Salary and compensation should be the last things you think about – it takes a long time to become valuable (because of your knowledge) in the estate business.”

David Pomije, chairman and CEO of Top Hat, Inc.: “People don’t care how much you know until they know how much you care.”

Mark Smelzer, publisher of JCK magazine: “Take advantage of the slower economy to rethink, replan, reimagine. Think about what your core strengths are, do your homework, think about how you present yourself.”

Jewelry designer Erica Courtney: “You can’t get lucky if you don’t get out there. You can’t get lucky if you’re sitting at home waiting for someone to discover what a genius you are. You have to make them know you’re a genius.”

Steven A. Mindel, managing partner of Feinberg, Mindel, Brandt & Klein, LLP: “There are a million different opportunities for people coming into the jewelry industry. You’ve got to keep your eyes really open because there may be a strange path to get in.”

Steve Shonebarger, executive vice president and chief operating officer of Montres Corum USA, always had his next job in line: “I always had aspirations to work for the next big company, but you don’t want to have a resume that shows you’ve changed jobs every year or two. You want to have at least 4 to 5 years with every company.”

Debra Dolphin, director of fulfillment for Blue Nile: “Give yourself a break if you fail once in a while. You’re going to learn from it, pick yourself up and be better next time.”

George Blodwell, celebrity stylist: “We’re already successful just being human beings. We are gems; we are so special and priceless. Remember that when you’re waking up in the morning. Be happy, be yourself – people respond to that authenticity. Don’t try to be something you’re not, don’t try to be impressive. Just be a real person and say what comes from your heart.” Source: GIA @topic:9


Title: Spring 2003 G&G Book Reviews Abstract: “Elizabeth Taylor: My Love Affair with Jewelry”
By Elizabeth Taylor, 239 pp., illus., publ. by Simon & Schuster, New York, 2002. US$39.95

“Cameos: Old and New, 3rd Ed.”
By Anna M. Miller, 274 pp., illus., publ. by Gemstone Press, Woodstock, VT, 2002. $19.95

“Beryllium-Treated Rubies and Sapphires”
By Ted Themelis, 48 pp., illus., publ. by Gemlab Inc. (e-mail: ted@themelis.com), Bangkok, 2003. US$20.00

“Jewelry & Gems at Auction”
By Antoinette Matlins, 309 pp., illus., publ. by Gemstone Press, Woodstock, VT, 2002. US$19.95

“Gemstone Buying Guide, 2nd Ed.”
By Renee Newman, 156 pp., illus., publ. by International Jewelry Publications, Los Angeles, 2003 US$19.95

“Mogok, Myanmar”
By Roland Schlüssel, 280 pp., illus., publ. by Christian Weise Verlag, Munich, 2002 (in German). € 100.00

“Crystals: Their Growth, Morphology, and Imperfections”
By Ichiro Sunagawa, 304 pp., illus., publ. by Kyoritsu Publications Corp., Tokyo, 2003 (in Japanese). ¥7,500

To view the full section, download the PDF above. Source: GIA @topic:6


Title: Out of Our Mines Abstract: Figure 1. Extremely rare Black Web Gem mine turquoise nuggets and cabochons from Nevada. These pieces are natural with no treatments except for the backings added to the cabochons. The center oval is approximately 16 × 12 mm. Photo by Richard Shull; courtesy of Out of Our Mines.
As noted in the overview turquoise was one of the most prolific gems in Tucson this year, found in a variety of jewelry, cut stones, and rough throughout the shows. Richard Shull and Helen Constantine-Shull of Out of Our Mines (Dyer, Nevada) reported strong sales at the AGTA show, where they had an impressive variety of mainly American stones, particularly turquoise and variscite from Nevada. They also offered other popular materials, including Oregon chalcedony, California tourmaline, Oregon sunstone, Nevada golden opal, and Arizona amethyst.
Childhood visits to trading posts during trips to the Southwest sparked Richard’s fascination with turquoise and jewelry. His family’s gold mining activities in California and Nevada inspired his own interest in mining. Helen similarly traveled throughout the Southwest as a child, developing a strong appreciation for the local rocks and plants. Both Shulls have extensive lapidary and jewelry-making experience. They began mining their own material in the late 1980s and became mine owners in the 1990s. Currently, they own and operate several turquoise and variscite claims in Nevada.

Figure 2. Natural Nevada turquoise from the Nevada Blue mine (stone farthest to the right, the pear shape on top, and the large center triangle); the Double Eagle mine (freeform triangular stone on center right and the geometric freeform below that); the Northern Lights mine (green stone); the Black Widow mine (two tight spiderweb stones on the left); and calibrated stones from the Supernova and Aztec mines at Royston (clear gem material without patterning). Sizes range from 2.12 ct to 24.62 ct. Photo by Robert Weldon; courtesy of Out of Our Mines.
Helen attributed her passion for turquoise and variscite to their great variety of patterns and colors. Their highest-end turquoise is material with tight, distinct spiderweb patterning from their Black Widow and Black Web Gem mines. Only about two pounds of material has been recovered to date from the Black Web Gem mine, and it is some of the finest natural black web turquoise in the world (figure 1). Also popular are greens from the Northern Lights mine, bright greenish blue material with striking reddish brown matrix from the Double Eagle mine, blues with strongly contrasting matrix from the Nevada Blue mine, and pattern-free clear gem material from the Supernova and Aztec mines at Royston (figure 2).

Figure 3. Stabilized Nevada turquoise from the Supernova mine. Sizes range from 5.61 to 13.09 ct. Photo by Robert Weldon; courtesy of Out of Our Mines.
Turquoise with distinct matrix patterning is a strong draw for those seeking one-of-a-kind pieces, a very popular trend in jewelry today. However, there is still solid demand for clear gem material, which the Shulls sell from both vintage sources (1950s Persian) and from their own Dyer Blue and Supernova mines in Nevada, which both produce webbed and clear turquoise (figure 3).

Figure 4. Variscite with matrix (left) and clear gem variscite without patterning (right). Photos by Jennifer Stone-Sundberg; courtesy of Out of Our Mines.
Variscite, a non-copper-containing aluminum phosphate mineral closely related to turquoise, is gaining popularity as consumers learn more about this mineral. Variscite comes in a range of greens and can exhibit the same fascinating matrix patterns found in turquoise (figure 4).
The Shulls described how some buyers form a personal connection with the material. For these customers, the stone they acquire is more than simply a piece of turquoise; it is a stone from a known location, uncovered by a known person, with a clear story of how it reached the final form in front of them. Source: GIA @topic:1


Title: Colored Gem Market Update Abstract: Joshua SaltzmanNomad’s Lapidary Company

	Interview with Joshua Saltzman, Nomad’s Lapidary Company
Nomad’s specializes in a wide range of high-end colored stones such as spinel, tourmaline, peridot, garnet, and corundum, all untreated. Saltzman finds that trade shows are excellent places for educating consumers about the differences between treated and untreated stones. As he sees it, explaining to a potential buyer why a similar-sized stone at another booth costs half of what Nomad’s charges (treatment vs. no treatment) gives that customer more choices.  She can make her selection based on whether lower prices or a gem’s natural qualities are her priority.

The market for high-quality and larger pieces has tightened noticeably in the past couple of years due to much less mining and production and the resulting higher prices. Rubellite and bi-colored tourmalines were big sellers on the Chinese market, but less rough is now available and sales have slowed. Two years ago, there was a large supply of Afghani tourmaline in the bright blues that Nomad’s is known for, but now the supply has shifted to mint colors and the variety known as indicolite; Saltzman says they are selling well and “people love them.”

Saltzman shows stunning deep purple cuprian tourmaline from Mozambique, a big and beautiful aquamarine from Brazil, and lavender spinel from Vietnam. The latter demonstrates a color shift from lavender to pink in a fine specimen with a fiery, glittery radiance that Saltzman calls “sexy, feminine and soft; very popular.” Although Nomad’s also sells Tajik spinel in rose pink, and Tanzanian spinel in oranges and intense pinks and reds, their biggest seller is Vietnamese cobalt blue, which is now very hard to find in sizes over a carat.

Indeed, spinel appears to be increasingly appreciated as a gemstone in its own right, instead of as merely a lower-cost substitute for corundum. Vietnamese spinel in pastel colors is in demand and the prices are rising due to the fact that only small finds are being mined now. One reason for its popularity is that spinel tends not to be heated or treated the way rubies and sapphires often are, so customers can be confident that what they are buying is a truly natural gemstone. Nomad’s customer base is loyal because they know that the company’s combined choice of rough, cutting, and polishing produces a level of quality in untreated gemstones not found elsewhere. Source: GIA @topic:1


Title: The Story Behind the Story:  China Revealed in 2013 Field Trip Abstract: The amount of .9999 fine gold jewelry at Batar Jewelry Company was beyond anything the team had ever seen before. Photo by Andrew Lucas, © GIA, courtesy of Batar Jewelry Company

The idea of a gem and jewelry exploratory trip to China was born ‒ as many industry ideas are ‒ from two colleagues walking a trade show.
Andrew Lucas, GIA manager of Field Gemology, and Dr. Tao Hsu, GIA technical editor of Gems & Gemology, attended the 2013 Tucson gem shows to gather up-to-date information on the colored stone industry for use as content for GIA’s Education courses. Hsu was relatively new to GIA at the time and Lucas learned she was born and raised in Beijing, China and graduated from the China University of Geosciences with a degree in gemology. She was soon sharing information about the Chinese gem and jewelry industry with him.
It wasn’t long before they realized that her connections and Mandarin language abilities would give GIA an excellent opportunity to document the Chinese industry. Several months later, a team that included Hsu, Lucas, GIA video producer Pedro Padua and GIA photographer Eric Welch, set off on a three-week journey to large and small gem and jewelry companies in China.
They were determined to learn as much about the Chinese industry as they could: What are they manufacturing? Who are they selling to? What’s in the domestic market? What are the trading and retail channels? They visited diamond cutting, colored stones (cutting and trading) and jade jewelry manufacturing facilities, as well as different forms of wholesaling and the retail aspects of the industry.

World-famous jewelry designer Shirley Zhang gave a personally guided tour of her factory and discussed her designs and the Chinese market with us. Photo by Eric Welch, © GIA
Lucas said he was amazed by many things he saw and learned in China, but the growth, scale and talent in the industry – and most importantly, the hospitality of the people they visited – made the greatest impression.
“I have been around the world, received great hospitality, and made many close friendships, but nowhere more so than China,” Lucas said. “Everyone was incredibly open and candid about their work. I found myself constantly saying ‘I love this country.’”
The Journey of Discovery
The modern jewelry industry in China only began approximately 30 years ago, Hsu said, but the country has a long history in jewelry.
“We started to use gold to decorate people and clothing 3,000 years ago and you can track jade back even longer,” she said. “Before 1912, there were rock shops and studios on a small scale that only served the royal family, not really the ordinary people. It was a totally different model. After the 1930s, China experienced a long upheaval period of about 50 years with World War II and the Cultural Revolution in between. No development of the jewelry industry happened within these 50 years.”
“That all changed in 1978 after the country re-opened. Then we started to learn from the Western world how to run a jewelry business,” she said. “This is a new era for the Chinese industry.”
The Chinese gem and jewelry industry is supported by a large pool of people with bachelor's, master's and doctorate degrees in gemology, which is offered as a major course of study at many universities, Hsu said. And the opportunities for these graduates grow every year.
“When I graduated 10 years ago, very few of us had the ambition to open a jewelry business,” she said. “But now many have that dream and take action to make it a reality right away because they see the economy and the market is growing so fast and a lot of opportunities are achievable.”
“It’s not that hard for you to start something for yourself. The broad view and the personal vision work together,” Hsu said.

Dr. Tao Hsu, technical editor of Gems & Gemology, meets with a member of the Chinese gem and jewelry industry. Photo by Pedro Padua, © GIA
This network of gemology alums were one of the most important ingredients for the GIA’s team to travel the country learning about the industry, Lucas said.
“Tao brilliantly planned and executed this ambitious trip through her former classmates and industry contacts,” Lucas said. “They all wanted to help with anything – logistics, anything we needed. This was especially true when we went to do interviews – they would say ‘you must go see this person’ or ‘I can help you with this.’ It’s almost part of their hospitality.”
The team traveled to the Shenzen, Panyu, Pingzhou, the Guangdong province (what many believe to be the jewelry manufacturing center of the world), to Shanghai (to better understand the commerce aspect of the industry) and Beijing (to document retailers and the highest-end of manufacturing).

“From Shenzhen to Guangzhou, we witnessed massive manufacturing and trading in colored stones, jade, jewelry and diamonds.” Lucas said. “The sheer scale of the industry was overwhelming. All around us were factories, trading centers and organizations to promote trade and government agencies to facilitate trade and retailers.”
“China supplies the world with jewelry,” Lucas said. “Shenzen has the largest 24K gold jewelry manufacturer in the world (it sold 200 tons of finished 24K gold jewelry in China alone last year), the largest diamond setting manufacturer in the world and one of the largest colored stone manufacturers in the world.”
"The country surpassed India not long ago as the major consumer of gold; are the second largest economy; the second biggest gemstone and jewelry market, and the second biggest luxury market," Lucas said. One jewelry retailer could have thousands of stores in a chain.

The China Diamond Exchange Center is where all diamonds, rough and cut, enter China.
Photo courtesy of China Diamond Exchange Center
“All of this growth is in the past 30 years,” Hsu said.
That growth power was most clear in Shanghai, Lucas said.
“Everywhere in the city spoke economic superpower to us,” he said. “This was also true of the China Diamond Exchange where Mr. Li Mu, vice chairman of the Diamond Administration of China, explained in detail the history and workings of the diamond industry in China.”
He also arranged for the team to visit one of the leading diamond jewelry retailer and Internet business operators, Zbird, where Lucas said he learned a lot about the bridal market.
“I didn’t realize China consumes 68% of all of the platinum in the world because it symbolizes how they feel about the purity in relationships,” Lucas said. “Platinum fits a lot of the personality of the Chinese consumer, so it caught on very quickly and is a tremendous seller.”

The brother and sister team of Zbird introduced the team to the bridal and internet diamond jewelry market in China. Image courtesy of Zbird
The People’s Perspective
The team was able to meet with business owners, designers and manufacturers throughout their journey who were very open to sharing information about their companies, their products and their lives.
“People were proud of their industry and they wanted to show us their industry,” Lucas said. “They wanted us to see as much as we could see. They wanted to share ideas. Most of the people were very curious about life in the U.S. compared to life there. They wanted to know what we thought of them and how we felt about our government.”
“Once they realized you have respect for their society and culture,” he said, “it was very easy to make very close friendships very quickly.”
Another strong trait Lucas noticed in the people he met, especially those in their mid-20’s, was a strong desire to gain education and knowledge.
“They had such a tremendous amount of focus and ambition, not just ambition to do well in business, but to do extremely well in whatever they do,” he said. “I saw that in the factories, too. The focus was amazing: they have a vision of where they want to be and they work hard at it and they have the patience for it. I found a tremendous amount of confidence in people for their future in China.”

An example of the vast jewelry manufacturing capability in China. Photo by Eric Welch, © GIA
A Clear Sense of Innovation
Lucas said that China for years had the bad rap of being “the knock-off country,” but he saw a lot of innovation and attention to quality and detail in the manufacturing facilities they visited.
“They would adapt some tried and true models of manufacturing that had been done in the West, but they would also implement different modifications and improvements so they could become more efficient,” he said. “A lot of the industry has moved away from massive amounts of workers ‒ though there’s still a lot of employment ‒ to more state-of-the-art technology in manufacturing.”
That sense of innovation was obvious with the designers they met, too.
“They are not just copying the West, which I think is the perception here,” Lucas said. “One jadeite designer I spoke to takes her inspiration from nature, from her culture and what she learns outside, and puts her own design element to it, blending them all.”
“I saw a lot of innovation in their designs and styles, including elements of individuality and originality in their artistic vision and techniques,” he said.
Reflections of Jade

The artistic talent and workmanship of the jadeite carvings in Pingzhou made a strong impression with the entire team. Photo by Eric Welch, © GIA, courtesy of Mazu
One of the most unforgettable experiences for the team was the two days they spent documenting the jade industry in Pingzhou and Sihui in Guangdong Province.
“The jade industry was extremely fascinating ‒ it’s just not something Westerners have a glimpse of very often,” said Lucas, who was surprised by the emotional and cultural connection people have to jade.

Hsu said there are two major materials of jade: Nephrite, which goes back thousands of years ago, and jadeite, which was first imported in about 1870. She said people first used jade to make tools because it was easy to shape, but then started to use it as worship vessels in different ceremonies since it was pretty compared to other stones.
“They used it to worship their ancestors in different ceremonies. Then it gradually became a decoration and people carved it to give it more meaning,” she said. The patterns gradually evolved; traditional patterns or shapes have different meanings, such as peace or good luck.
“We play with it – it’s not like a piece of jewelry that you wear when you go out – we have it in our hand, we play with it every day,” she said. “People think they are a part of the jade piece and it is a part of them. It’s totally mingled.”

Chinese people enjoy the texture and color of jade, Hsu said, but can like it for any reason, like the feeling you get when you touch it. “We worship how nature can make it look that way,” she said.

Hsu said that jade is also a reflection of the Chinese people.

“Chinese are very conservative and the jade is the same – it matches with our personality,” she said. “It’s not sparkling or transparent, so you cannot see through it easily. That’s also like a lot of Chinese people – they are conservative, too, and you cannot see through them right away. We prefer to be like that based on our culture and tradition.”

“When you look at the nephrite, you want yourself to be like that,” she said.

The GIA team spent endless hours documenting the Chinese gem and jewelry industry. Photo by Eric Welch, © GIA
Consumer Market
The team not only got an insider’s look at the creators of Chinese jewelry, but also a clear understanding of the Chinese consumer.
“The really fascinating part of our trip was seeing the explosion and growth in the domestic consumption,” Lucas said. “The Chinese consumer is interested in everything.”
That’s because they have had the opportunity to travel the world to see all of the different types of gemstones and materials others are wearing, Hsu said. “So people brought them back and more people got to know these materials.”
“Just in the past 5-10 years, people started to realize how beautiful colored stones are,” she said. “Once they saw that, the market started to explode.”
Lucas sees tremendous opportunity for these sales to keep growing as the number of people born in China in the 1980s is three times the size of the Baby Boomer market in the U.S.
“That’s why it was so important for us to go on this exploratory trip,” he said. “Not only are the Chinese a gracious and hospitable people, but they have the power to help the gem and jewelry industry continue to thrive.” Source: GIA @topic:9


Title: Update on Ametrine from the Yuruty Mine, Bolivia Abstract: This ametrine (6.46–35.59 ct) was recently mined from the Yuruty deposit in Bolivia. Photo by Robert Weldon.

              During the Tucson gem shows, Hugo Marancenbau (Steinmar Ltd., Santa Cruz, Bolivia) provided an update on ametrine from the Yuruty mine in Bolivia (see Summer 2000 Gem News, p. 163). This deposit was initially claimed in the mid-1990s and is located ~50 km north of the famous Anahí ametrine mine. Mining at Yuruty has been intermittent, although commercial production was resumed during the past two years. The deposit is exploited by ~100 people in underground workings consisting of a 90 m shaft and four horizontal tunnels up to 200 m long. The mine produces an average of ~40 tonnes/month of mixed-grade material, approximately 3% of which is facetable. Although Mr. Marancenbau’s company plans to sell the ametrine in the rough form only, they have test faceted a few thousand carats (weighing 3–30 ct each) that were sold at the JOGS show. He indicated that it was the first time ametrine from this mine was sold in Tucson.

Mr. Marancenbau kindly donated several rough and cut pieces of ametrine to the GIA Collection. The faceted stones (figure 2) contained varying amounts of purple and yellow, with a sharp color boundary visible face-up in one of the samples. None of them had the distinctive smoky layers seen previously in Yuruty material (see the Summer 2000 Gem News entry).

With several tonnes of rough material stockpiled and good reserves that are inferred to remain underground, the Yuruty deposit appears poised to become an important supplier of ametrine. Source: GIA @topic:1


Title: Summer 1998 G&G Book Reviews Abstract: “The Pearl Book: The Definitive Buying Guide—How to Select, Buy, Care for & Enjoy Pearls”
By Antoinette L. Matlins, 198 pp., illus., publ. by GemStone Press, Woodstock, VT, 1996. US$19.95

“Gemstones of Brazil: Geology and Occurrences”
By Patrick J. V. Delaney, 125 pp., illus., publ. by Revista Escola de Minas, Ouro Preto, Brazil, 1996. US$23.80

“Encyclopedia of Mineral Names”
By William H. Blackburn and William H. Dennen, illus., edited by Robert F. Martin, 360 pp., illus., publ. by the Mineralogical Association of Canada, Ottawa, Ontario, 1997. US$40.00

“Proceedings of the Sixth International Kimberlite Conference”
Edited by N. V. Sobolev and R. H. Mitchell, 619 pp. in two volumes, illus., publ. by Allerton Press, New York, 1997. US$95.00 (individuals), US$225.00 (institutions)

To view the full section, download the PDF above. Source: GIA @topic:1


Title: Winter 1998 G&G Book Reviews Abstract: “Bulgari”
By Daniela Mascetti and Amanda Triossi, 225 pp., illus., publ. by Abbeville Press, New York, NY, 1996. US$75.00

“Collecting and Classifying Colored Diamonds: An Illustrated Study of the Aurora Collection”
By Stephen C. Hofer, 742 pp., illus., publ. by Ashland Press, New York, NY, 1998. US$300.00

“The Nature of Diamonds”
Edited by George E. Harlow, 278 pp., illus., publ. by Cambridge University Press, New York, NY, 1998. US$29.95 (softbound)

“Glossary of Geology, 4th Edition”
Edited by Julia A. Jackson, 769 pp., publ. by the American Geological Institute, Alexandria, VA, 1997. US$110.00

“Gem and Jewellry Year Book 1997–98”
Edited by V. V. Kala and A. Kala, 697 pp., illus., publ. by International Journal House, Jaipur, India [diaworld@jpl.vsnl.net.in], 1998. US$35.00 (surface), US$50.00 (air)

To view the full section, download the PDF above. Source: GIA @topic:7


Title: Spring 2008 G&G Book Reviews Abstract: “Rings: Jewelry of Power, Love and Loyalty”
By Diana Scarisbrick, 384 pp., illus., publ. by Thames & Hudson Ltd. [www.thamesandhudsonusa.com], London, 2007. US$50.00

“The Emerald Book”
By Yogi Durlabhji, Shyamala Fernandes, and Ruchi Durlabhji, Eds., 143 pp., illus., publ. on behalf of the Jaipur Jewellery Show [info@jaipurjewelleryshow.org], Jaipur, India, 2007. Free

“Jewelry Savvy: What Every Jewelry Wearer Should Know”
By Cynthia A. Sliwa and Caroline Stanley, 224 pp., illus., publ. by Jewels on Jewels, Los Angeles, [www.jewelrysavvybook.com], 2007. US$19.99

“In Gold We Trust: Social Capital and Economic Change in the Italian Jewelry Towns”
By Dario Gaggio, 352 pp., publ. by Princeton University Press [www.press.princeton.edu], Princeton, NJ, 2007. US$39.50

“Safety Solutions”
63 pp., illus. with DVD, publ. by MJSA Press [www.mjsa.org/info_press.php], Providence, RI, 2007. $49.95 ($29.95 for DVD alone)

“Diamonds Are Waiting for You”
By James R. Holland, 63 pp., illus., publ. by A Bit of Boston Books [www.bitofboston.com], Boston, MA, 2007, $12.00

“Late Antique and Early Christian Gems”
By Jeffery Spier, 221 pp. with 154 black-and-white plates, publ. by Reichert Verlag, Wiesbaden, Germany, 2007, $297.00

To view the full section, download the PDF above. Source: GIA @topic:6


Title: Fall 2001 G&G Book Reviews Abstract: “Gemstones—Quality and Value, Vol. 3: Jewelry”
By Yasukazu Suwa, 144 pp., illus., publ. by Sekai Bunka Publishing, Tokyo, 2001. US$95.00

“Mogôk: Valley of Rubies & Sapphires”
By Ted Themelis, 270 pp., illus., publ. by A & T Publishing, Los Angeles, 2000. US$89.00

“Southwest Silver Jewelry”
By Paula A. Baxter, 212 pp., illus., publ. by Schiffer Publishing, Atglen, PA, 2001. US$49.95

“Jewelry Wax Modeling— A Practical Guide for the Jewelry Model Maker”
By Adolfo Mattiello, 161 pp., illus., publ. by Du-Matt Corp., Guttenberg, NJ, 1999. US$38.95

“Western Queensland Opals— Exploration and Geoscience Data Sets”
CD-ROM, Queensland Government Department of Mines and Energy, 2000, free of charge [e-mail: lcranfield@dme.qld.gov.au]

To view the full section, download the PDF above. Source: GIA @topic:10


Title: Fancy Colors, History Ruled 2018 Auctions Abstract: Demand for top fancy colored diamonds was strong in 2018. This 8.08 ct cushion cut Fancy Vivid blue diamond ring by Bulgari sold for $18.3 million ($2.27 million per carat) at Christie’s December Hong Kong auction. Photo courtesy of Christie’s.

World-class fancy colored diamonds and truly historic jewels highlighted the 2018 auctions, but behind the headlines, total jewelry sales at auction were down an estimated 15% from 2017.

The total of fine jewelry sales from all Christie’s and Sotheby’s auctions in 2018 was an estimated $900 million, down from about $1.1 billion the year before.

Christie’s announced 2018 jewelry sales of $492.3 million; $484.5 million from in-room sales and $7.8 million from online auctions. In 2017, its jewelry sales were $565.6 million, including $9 million from online sales.

Sotheby’s does not announce its fine jewelry sales, but estimates were about $420 million as several large buy-ins reduced the total.

The GIA-graded 18.96 ct Pink Legacy, renamed the Winston Pink, achieved a record per-carat price for a pink diamond when it sold for $50.4 million ($2.65 million per carat) at Christie’s November Geneva auction. Photo courtesy of Christie’s.
The year’s highlights came in mid-November.

Sotheby’s Geneva auction of Royal Jewels from the Bourbon-Parma Family included 10 pieces that belonged to ill-fated French queen Marie Antoinette. The collection brought $53 million against a pre-sale estimate of $7 million.

This monogrammed diamond ring contains a woven lock of Marie Antoinette’s hair and brought more than $447,000. Photo courtesy of Sotheby’s
The day before, Christie’s Geneva auction achieved a record per-carat price for a pink diamond, selling the GIA-graded 18.96 ct Pink Legacy for $50.4 million ($2.65 million per carat). The buyer, Harry Winston, Inc., renamed the diamond the Winston Pink. That same sale saw an anonymous buyer pay a record price of $15 million for the Peacock Necklace, which contains 23 Kashmir sapphires totaling 109.08 carats and 21 cushion cut diamonds.

Historic gems and jewelry like the Moon of Baroda, a 24.04 ct Fancy yellow diamond, achieved top prices at auction in 2018. The diamond, found in India centuries ago and part of the collection of Marie Therese of Vienna, sold for $1.3 million at Christie’s November Hong Kong auction. Photo courtesy of Christie’s.
Other auction highlights from 2018 include:

A 24.7 ct Burmese ruby for $11 million, Sotheby’s April Hong Kong
A 3.47 ct Fancy Vivid blue diamond for $6.7 million; nearly $2 million per carat at Sotheby’s April New York
A 3.09 ct Fancy Intense blue diamond for $5.38 million at Christie’s April New York
An 8.01 ct Fancy Vivid blue diamond by Moussaieff for $20.5 million ($2.55 million per carat) at Christie’s May Hong Kong
A 5 ct Fancy Vivid blue diamond for $13.8 million ($2.8 million per carat) at Sotheby’s October Hong Kong
The 24.04 ct Fancy Yellow Moon of Baroda, owned by empress Marie Therese of Austria and worn by Marilyn Monroe in the 1950s to promote her film, Gentlemen Prefer Blondes, which sold for $1.3 million at Christie’s November Hong Kong
A 10.04 ct Burmese ruby for $7.23 million ($720,481 per carat) at Christie’s November Hong Kong
A 21.19 ct Fancy Light pink diamond for $7.4 million at Sotheby’s November Geneva
An 8.08 ct Fancy Vivid blue diamond by Bulgari for $18.3 million at Christie’s December Hong Kong
A 15.56 ct Fancy Intense pink diamond pendant for $9.37 million at Christie’s December New York

Christie’s November Hong Kong auction included a 10.04 ct Burmese ruby and diamond ring that sold for $7.23 million ($720,481 per carat). Photo courtesy of Christie’s
While demand for historic jewels and most top fancy colored diamonds was strong, buyers were more cautious in their bidding for other high value pieces, especially in Hong Kong, where only 65% to 70% of the lots offered found buyers.

Sotheby’s Hong Kong auction totals were set back by the failure of several major pieces to find buyers. These include a 10.62 Fancy Vivid blue diamond that failed to achieve the $20 million to $30 million pre-sale estimate in November; a jadeite bangle that fell short of its $12.8 million estimate in April; and a 14.18 ct Fancy blue diamond that did not reach its $7 million estimate. Several other million-dollar-plus jadeite pieces also did not find buyers at that Hong Kong auction.

Exceptional diamonds and colored gems, however, still lag behind fine art. The year’s highlight was a Modigliani work that sold for more than $157 million – a price considered lackluster by some art experts.

Updated on Jan. 4, 2019 to reflect auction sales estimates. Source: GIA @topic:8


Title: De Beers’ Synthetic Shock Draws Mixed Reactions at 2018 JCK Abstract: De Beers is pricing its Lightbox synthetic colorless and fancy colors to what it claims are its costs of production, not in relation to natural diamonds. The products are due to reach the market this fall. Photo courtesy De Beers

The De Beers announcement that the company would offer a low-priced line of synthetic diamond jewelry, called Lightbox, set off a torrent of commentary at the JCK show in Las Vegas – some positive, some negative.

The announcement, made two days before the show, said the De Beers company would sell lab-grown diamonds for $800 per carat or the total weight set in earrings and pendants – $200 for a quarter carat, $400 for half carat and $800 for a one-carat, plus the cost of the settings. Each lab grown diamond will have a laser identification mark inside that can’t be polished off. De Beers also said it is producing pink and blue fancy colors offered at the same prices.

The company, which is keeping the De Beers name off the Lightbox line, kept this project under tight secrecy during its 18-month development. It is building its own production facility near Portland, Oregon, which will begin full operation in 2020 and will manufacture up to 500,000 carats yearly. Lightbox will have a separate management team, much like De Beers’ retail division.

Retailers had mixed reactions. Some thought it would ruin their diamond business, while others saw a new opportunity for lower price-point jewelry. No one was pleased that the initial offerings would be online only. De Beers said it would make the line available to retailers within two years.

Diamond dealers, particularly those specializing in lower-priced goods, were unhappy with the De Beers’ announcement, saying the Lightbox line would kill the market for cheaper, lower quality natural stones because the prices were 20% to 30% of comparable weight goods in that category. Dealers of higher-end diamonds complained that De Beers was “throwing its weight around” and “no longer cared” about the diamond industry.

Surprisingly, most of the 30 synthetic diamond companies exhibiting at the show were in favor of De Beers’ new line. They offered three reasons:

De Beers’ entry into this market “legitimizes” their product
the resulting publicity will also drive demand for their products
the pricing is not a threat because they are marketing their products differently

They said the De Beers’ announcement drove many potential customers to the lab-grown diamond section of the show.

At a standing room-only presentation, David Prager, De Beers vice president for corporate affairs, said the pricing and the market positioning all came out of extensive consumer research in the U.S.

“Consumers want fun and fashion from lab-grown diamonds,” he said. “They also want transparent, accessible pricing. And we found that women would buy a lab-grown diamond for themselves,” even if they did not want it as a gift from a spouse or partner.

Prager stressed that De Beers is pegging prices of its products to the cost of production, not as a percentage discount from natural diamonds, as many other synthetic diamond producers do.

The marketing will be geared toward “lighter emotional moments” said Sally Morrison, who is heading that department, “and priced for women to be able to treat themselves.”

All of the executives stressed the “light emotional occasion” to draw a distinct line from De Beers’ traditional marketing of giving natural diamonds for engagements, anniversaries and other very significant life occasions. Source: GIA @topic:8