Title: Musgravite from Myanmar Abstract: Figure 1. These two musgravites (0.11 and 0.24 ct) are reportedly from Myanmar. Photo by Brad Payne.

              Two small, near-colorless stones reportedly from Myanmar (0.11 and 0.24 ct; figure 1) were recently loaned to GIA for examination by Brad Payne (The Gem Trader, Surprise, Arizona). Both samples had a refractive index of 1.718–1.723 and a specific gravity of 3.66 (calculated from optical measurements using a Sarin device, due to the small size of the samples). Both showed a very weak orange fluorescence to long-wave UV radiation and luminesced weak red to short-wave UV.

These properties are within the established ranges for musgravite and taaffeite, which have similar chemical composition and structure. Distinguishing between the two minerals requires Raman spectroscopy or X-ray diffraction. Conclusive identification of these samples as musgravite was accomplished by Raman spectroscopy (see L. Kiefert and K. Schmetzer, “Distinction of taaffeite and musgravite,” Journal of Gemmology, Vol. 26, No. 3, 1998, pp. 165–167). Even though several stones have been submitted to GIA’s laboratory over the years as musgravite, rarely have they been confirmed as such (see Summer 1997 Gem News, pp. 145–147; Spring 2001 Lab Notes, pp. 60–61).

Microscopic observation revealed a heavily roiled growth structure and small colorless needles and particulates scattered throughout. Also present were numerous black opaque hexagonal platelets, identified by Raman analysis as graphite (figure 2). Interestingly, the graphite platelets all appeared to be crystallographically aligned within the host musgravite.

	Figure 8. Hexagonal graphite platelets were the most conspicuous inclusion in the 0.24 ct musgravite. Photomicrograph by N. Renfro; field of view is 1.08 mm.
According to Mr. Payne’s supplier, Burmese “taaffeite” (which includes a small percentage of musgravite) comes from Chaunggyi, a few kilometers northwest of Mogok. Although production is quite limited, more musgravite may appear as miners become aware of this rare gem’s existence. Due to the overlap of physical properties between musgravite and taaffeite, stones suspected of being the rarer musgravite should be submitted to a qualified gemological laboratory for confirmation. Source: GIA @topic:2


Title: Yellow Synthetic Sapphire Colored by Trapped-Hole Mechanism Abstract: Figure 1. The UV-visible spectrum of this yellow sapphire shows broadband absorption features below ~500 nm, originating from trapped holes associated with Mg and Cr. The DiamondView image clearly displays curved bands (sub-parallel to the long direction of the stone under the table), indicating a synthetic origin. These curved bands are not seen with standard immersion, demonstrating the DiamondView’s effectiveness (the red color is due to the fluorescence of chromium). The stone’s CIE L*a*b* color coordinates are reproduced from the measured UV-visible spectrum.

              Natural sapphires with pale or lemon yellow color and no orange hue are traditionally associated with the chromophore Fe3+, which substitutes for aluminum in corundum. The New York laboratory recently received a 2.58 ct yellow emerald-cut stone (figure 1, inset), identified as sapphire by its RI and SG. But the desk-model spectroscope showed broadband absorption below ~500 nm without any of the Fe3+-related absorption features associated with yellow coloration (e.g., at 450 nm). Microscopic observation showed an exceptionally clean interior with only a small cluster of tiny particles that resembled gas bubbles from synthetic materials. The stone fluoresced medium orange to long-wave UV radiation and inert to short-wave UV.

The suspicious inclusion scene and the absence of diagnostic spectral features warranted additional testing. A standard immersion image failed to show any zoning or features. By contrast, a DiamondView image clearly revealed parallel curved bands characteristic of synthetic origin. Quantitative UV-visible spectra exhibited strong broadband absorptions in the blue and green regions and created a transmission window in the yellow spectral region (figure 1). Detailed chemical analysis via LA-ICP-MS was performed to identify chromophores and color origin. The elements Mg, Cr, and Ni were detected at trace levels (a few ppma). Naturally occurring elements such as Ga were not detected, further indicating synthetic origin. Trace Cr was confirmed both by red fluorescence and by laser photoluminescence spectra with 514 nm excitation, exhibiting a doublet at 692/694 nm and side bands.

A combination of trace-element analysis and UV-visible spectroscopy clearly indicated that the yellow color originated from the much more effective chromophore known as “trapped holes,” associated with the trace amount of Mg and Cr in this stone (J.L. Emmett et al., “Beryllium diffusion of ruby and sapphire, Summer 2003 G&G, pp. 84–134). By comparison, a sapphire colored by Fe3+ would only display a pale yellow coloration with a concentration above 500 ppma. This synthetic sapphire, however, showed no iron above the detection limit ( 1 ppma). The contribution of trace amounts of Ni is not well known.

Natural and synthetic sapphires colored by a trapped-hole mechanism often possess an orange or reddish orangy hue. This synthetic sapphire exhibited a yellow coloration much like those of samples colored by Fe3+. This example demonstrates that a clear understanding of chromophore contribution and the application of relevant advanced testing can reliably identify the cause of color as well as natural or synthetic origin. In this instance, the prominent curved growth supported the identification, but even without this feature a thorough understanding of the cause of color in sapphire can provide helpful identification clues. Source: GIA @topic:3


Title: Natural Faceted Red Rutile Abstract: Figure 1. The 4.40 ct natural red rutile on the left was compared with a 4.47 ct orange flame-fusion synthetic rutile. Photo by C.D. Mengason.

	The Carlsbad laboratory recently received a 4.40 ct dark red marquise brilliant (figure 1, left) for examination. Standard gemological testing revealed a refractive index that was over the limit of the RI liquid, as well as a hydrostatic specific gravity of 4.27. The specimen was inert to both long-wave and short-wave UV. Under reflected light, it showed a metallic luster. Raman testing identified the material as rutile. To distinguish it as natural or synthetic rutile, we compared it with a known flame-fusion orange synthetic rutile sample (figure 1, right).

Figure 2. In this natural red rutile, an octagonal blockage is capped at the end of the growth tube. Photomicrograph by Ziyin Sun; field of view 1.40 mm.

	Under magnification, the most distinctive internal characteristic of the dark red specimen was an octagonal blockage with a long growth tube extending to the surface (figure 2). Near the girdle, some unknown rectangular tabular inclusions were also observed, which were not identified by Raman spectroscopy (figure 3). Both internal features indicated the specimen was natural rutile. Straight and angular growth banding was also observed (figure 4). Raman spectroscopy for both the red sample and the orange synthetic revealed major peaks at 610, 446, and 242 cm–1 and minor peaks at 818, 707, and 319 cm–1, confirming their identity as rutile (see the RRUFF database at rruff.info).

Figure 3. Near the girdle, rectangular tabular inclusions are observed under fiber-optic illumination. Photomicrograph by Ziyin Sun; field of view 2.43 mm.

Figure 4. The natural rutile shows straight and angular growth banding. Photomicrograph by Ziyin Sun; field of view 4.92 mm.

	Laser ablation–inductively coupled plasma–mass spectrometry (LA-ICP-MS) revealed that the dark red rutile had a composition of 98.2% TiO2 and 1.5% Fe2O3 by weight, with traces of Mg, Al, Si, Ca, Sc, V, Cr, Cu, Zn, Zr, Nb, Cd, In, Sn, Sb, Hf, Ta, W, Pb, and U. The presence of Nb (176.81–296.93 ppmw), Ta (15.13–25.81 ppmw), Hf (0.15–0.40 ppmw), Zr (3.29–4.84 ppmw), Pb (0.01–0.56 ppmw), and U (0.07–0.27 ppmw) suggested a natural origin. The orange synthetic rutile contained 99.9% TiO2, plus traces of Mg, Si, Cr, Co, Cu, and Zn. Traces of iron (1.66 ppmw, 0.0238% Fe2O3 by weight) were also detected. Synthetic rutile boules created by the Verneuil process have an orange color with 0.04% Fe2O3 and a clear reddish color with 0.2% Fe2O3 (C.H. Moore, Jr. and R. Dahlstrom, “Synthetic rutile crystal and method for making same,” U.S. Patent 2792287). The red specimen’s lower chemical purity indicates natural origin.

	Visible spectra of both stones were taken. The red bodycolor of the natural rutile matched the transmission window between 650 and 700 nm in the red portion of the spectrum, which was likely caused by iron.

	Although rutile is a common inclusion in many minerals, the few crystals that are faceted usually weigh less than 1 ct. This faceted stone was very rare because of its large size. It was the first faceted natural rutile examined by GIA’s Carlsbad laboratory. Source: GIA @topic:3


Title: Remarkable Twinned Calcite Inclusion in Mogok Ruby Abstract: Viewed between crossed polarizers, an included calcite crystal within an unheated Burmese ruby displays dramatic twinning planes. Photomicrograph by E. Billie Hughes; field of view 3.90 mm.

The Mogok Stone Tract in Myanmar (formerly Burma) is one of the world’s most famous sources of ruby, which often forms there in a calcite-marble host. Calcite may occur as an inclusion inside the ruby, as in the example above. In this stone, the calcite is easy to spot between crossed polarizers, which reveal polysynthetic twinning planes that “crisscross” the crystal. While calcite is a common inclusion in ruby, this is the clearest example of calcite twinning this author has seen. Surrounding the calcite crystal is a dense, angular nest of exsolved rutile silk as short needles, a typical scene in rubies from this locality. Source: GIA @topic:2


Title: Gray “Spinel Sisters” Abstract: Figure 1. David Nassi’s 69.96 ct antique cushion-cut, loupe-clean gray spinel. Prized in the trade for its metallic-like sheen, gray spinel of this size, quality, and color is extremely rare. Photo by Robert Weldon.
At the AGTA show, 100% Natural Ltd. (New York) took center stage with some large, extremely rare gemstones spared of treatments of any kind. Two stones that caught the authors’ attention were a pair of exceptionally cut and nearly loupe-clean gray spinels weighing 69.96 ct (figure 1) and 11.78 ct (figure 2). There has been an increase in demand for gray spinel the past few years (Spring 2019 GNI, p. 130). Supply has remained relatively consistent, but larger, fine-quality stones are still quite rare.

Figure 2. The finest gray spinel is a pure neutral gray, without a blue or violet secondary color component, as exemplified by this 11.78 ct antique pear shape expertly cut by David Nassi. Photo by Robert Weldon.
Both of the gray spinels were cut from the same rough, weighing just over 220 ct and mined in Myanmar. Though famed for its rubies, Myanmar also produces equally fine red and pink spinel, as well as a range of other colors, including gray.
Master lapidarist and AGTA Spectrum Award winner David Nassi of 100% Natural Ltd. explained that gray spinel can appear lifeless and overly dark if cut poorly. His decision to create two “spinel sisters” from the same rough resulted from a fissure running through the large piece of rough (figure 3). The 11.78 ct stone provided more of a challenge, as the shape of the rough piece was a bit flat and asymmetrical when sawn from the larger stone. Inspired by a large Mozambique stone he cut many years ago, Nassi expertly fashioned this piece into an antique pear shape, perfectly complementing the larger 69.96 ct antique cushion cut (see video below).
Nassi and the authors agree that gray spinel has been an underappreciated treasure in the trade for a while now. Its presence at the AGTA show gives us hope that gray spinel is gaining the popularity it deserves.

Figure 3. The large rough gray spinel before (left) and after being sawn (right) because of a fissure in the rough. Not pictured is an additional small chipped-off piece weighing 3.32 ct, leaving open the possibility of a future third spinel sister. Photos courtesy of David Nassi.

	David Nassi Cutting Gray Spinel Source: GIA @topic:1


Title: Cat's-Eye Demantoid and Brown Andradite with Horsetail Inclusions Abstract: Figure 1. This 2.51 ct green demantoid with chatoyancy (left) contained well-aligned fibers of horsetail inclusions (right, field of view 1.10 mm). Photos by Shunsuke Nagai (left) and Taku Okada (right).
Two garnets were recently submitted to the Tokyo lab for identification. One was a green cabochon weighing 2.51 ct; the other was an orangy brown round brilliant weighing 2.47 ct. Both had a refractive index (RI) over the limits of the refractometer and a hydrostatic specific gravity (SG) of 3.84. To confirm the identification, we used Raman spectroscopy. Both stones matched the andradite garnet group from the reference database. The ideal chemical formula of andradite is Ca3Fe2Si3O12. The most important feature in both garnets was their horsetail inclusions. The presence of horsetail inclusions, which are thought to consist of chrysotile fibers branching out and radiating toward the surface from a small chromite nodule, has been regarded as diagnostic for natural demantoid.

The 2.51 ct stone was a rare cat’s-eye demantoid (figure 1). Demantoid garnet is by definition the green-colored andradite caused by chromium substitution. Chatoyancy is usually caused by closely spaced bands of long, thin parallel needles or fibers in the correct orientation, with a polished rounded surface such as a cabochon to reflect the light off the parallel inclusions. In this stone, the chatoyancy was due to the fibers of the horsetail inclusions. The radiating fibers were not parallel straight lines but parallel curves, so the “eye” was slightly curved.

Figure 2. This 2.47 ct orangy brown andradite (left) contained radiating horsetail inclusions regarded as exclusive to demantoid (right, field of view 1.60 mm). Photos by Shunsuke Nagai (left) and Taku Okada (right).
The 2.47 ct stone was an andradite garnet with classic horsetails (figure 2). The dominant bodycolor was brown. The gemological properties and chemistry were classified as andradite in the garnet solid solution, but it was poorer in calcium and richer in iron and silicon than the ideal andradite composition. The brownish cast was due to iron. On occasion we encounter stones with a strong yellow component that still have enough green to qualify as demantoid. However, this stone had no green in it and therefore was just andradite, not demantoid.

Consequently, the horsetail inclusions cannot be considered exclusively diagnostic for demantoid. They may also be found in non-green andradite. These two identifications—“cat’s-eye demantoid” and normal “andradite” in spite of horsetail inclusions—were issued for the first time in GIA’s colored stone report records. Source: GIA @topic:2


Title: Amphibole Mineral Inclusions in Mozambique Ruby Abstract: Figure 1. Densely distributed amphibole inclusions in ruby. Photomicrograph by Kazuko Saruwatari; field of view 9.40 mm.
Amphibole, a mineral supergroup with a diverse chemical composition of the general formula AB2C5T8O22W2, where A =  (vacancy), Na+, K+, Ca2+, Pb2+, Li+; B = Na+, Ca2+, Mn2+, Fe2+, Mg2+, Li+; C = Mg2+, Fe2+, Mn2+, Al3+, Fe3+, Mn3+, Cr3+, Ti4+, Li+; T = Si4+, Al3+, Ti4+, Be2+; and W = OH−, O2−, F−, Cl−, is a collectors’ item as a loose stone; its members are known as constituent minerals of nephrite (X. Feng et al., “Characterization of Mg and Fe contents in nephrite using Raman spectroscopy,” Summer 2017 G&G, pp. 204–212).

Figure 2. Rounded anhedral amphibole crystals. Photomicrograph by Masumi Saito; field of view 3.25 mm.
In addition, amphibole appears as crystal inclusions in both ruby and sapphire reported from Mozambique and Kashmir (e.g., Winter 2018 Lab Notes, pp. 435–436). Recently, the GIA lab in Tokyo received a Mozambique ruby densely included with rounded anhedral crystals (figures 1 and 2).

Figure 3. The Raman spectrum of the amphibole mineral inclusions (blue) and the reference spectrum of pargasite from the RRUFF database (R060072).
The Raman pattern of the surface-reaching crystals most closely matched the RRUFF reference spectrum (no. 060072) of the calcic amphibole pargasite (figure 3). The Raman peak at 669 cm–1 corresponded to the symmetric stretching vibration of T elements, which are tetrahedral ring structures composed mainly of the Si-Ob-Si linkage (Ob = bridging oxygen) and often used to fingerprint various amphibole species (N. Waeselmann et al., “Nondestructive determination of the amphibole crystal‐chemical formulae by Raman spectroscopy: One step closer,” Journal of Raman Spectroscopy, Vol. 51, No. 9, 2020, pp. 1530–1548).

Figure 4. The FTIR spectrum of the Mozambique ruby, indicating the amphibole-related peaks between 3600 and 3800 cm–1. The 3309 cm–1 peak is associated with corundum.
The FTIR pattern showed some peaks between 3600 and 3800 cm–1 in the principal OH-stretching region of octahedral metal components, which are C cations in the general formula of amphibole (figure 4). The FTIR pattern showed a peak at 3643 cm–1 in addition to peaks at 3671 and 3704 cm–1, suggesting the possibility that other elements such as Fe occupied those sites typical of pargasite in some portions (e.g., M.C. Day et al., “Gem amphiboles from Mogok, Myanmar: Crystal-structure refinement, infrared spectroscopy and short-range order–disorder in gem pargasite and fluoro-pargasite,” Mineralogical Magazine, Vol. 83, No. 3, 2019, pp. 361–371). The FTIR spectra of corundum between 2000 and 5000 cm–1 were very useful for the identification of mineral inclusions in corundum. This is the first known report of an FTIR pattern identifying amphibole mineral inclusions in corundum. Source: GIA @topic:2


Title: Flux-Grown Pink Synthetic Sapphire with Unusual Crystal Inclusions Abstract: Figure 1. This pink stone proved to be a flux-grown synthetic sapphire with unusual crystal inclusions. Photo by Robison McMurtry.

The Carlsbad laboratory recently received a saturated pink cushion mixed cut, mounted in a ring, that measured 14.02 × 10.35 × 6.24 mm (figure 1). Standard gemological testing yielded a refractive index of 1.760–1.768 and a weak ruby spectrum using a handheld spectroscope, properties consistent with pink sapphire. The stone displayed a strong orange fluorescence under long-wave UV and an odd chalky orangy yellow fluorescence under short-wave UV. While orange fluorescence is not unusual in pink sapphires, the intensity and the chalky yellow reaction were suspicious.

Microscopic examination revealed a single hexagonal, dark reflective platelet (figure 2); numerous transparent, colorless tabular to rounded doubly refractive crystals (figure 3) that showed interference colors under crossed polarizers; and a small fingerprint composed of elongated tubules. Observation in immersion showed some weak, straight orange and pink zoning. This inclusion scene could easily be mistaken for natural as the transparent crystals bore a certain resemblance to zircon, a common inclusion in natural sapphires and particularly pink sapphires from Madagascar. The dark reflective platelet, which was presumably platinum, and odd fluorescence prompted further investigation.

Figure 2. This dark reflective platinum platelet observed in the pink synthetic sapphire is a common inclusion in flux-grown synthetic corundum. Photo by Nathan Renfro; field of view 1.82 mm.

Figure 3. The abundance of transparent crystals and crystal clusters could easily be mistaken for a natural inclusion scene in a pink sapphire from Madagascar. Photo by Nathan Renfro; field of view 1.79 mm.
The synthetic nature of the sapphire was confirmed using laser ablation–inductively coupled plasma–mass spectrometry (LA-ICP-MS). High amounts of Pt were detected, which would support a flux synthetic growth process. Small amounts of Fe and Be were present; Ga, Ti, and V were not detected. This chemical profile also supports synthetic sapphire.

Transparent crystals of possible chrysoberyl (BeAl2O4) have been previously cited in flux-grown synthetic corundum (R.E. Kane, “The gemological properties of Chatham flux-grown synthetic orange sapphire and synthetic blue sapphire,” Fall 1982 G&G, pp. 140–153). In that case, Chatham stated that heavy concentrations of beryllium were added to the original aluminum oxide formula, which would explain the presence of those crystals. In our pink sapphire, none of the crystals reached the surface, so we were unable to identify them with Raman spectroscopy. Small amounts of beryllium were detected, so chrysoberyl could be a possibility in this case as well.

The presence of these natural-looking crystals combined with the general lack of other inclusions for a stone of this size, particularly diagnostic flux fingerprints, could make correct identification very difficult for gemologists without access to advanced instrumentation. This is one case where advanced testing in a well-equipped gemological laboratory was necessary to make a conclusive identification. Source: GIA @topic:3


Title: Rare Inclusion of Chabazite in a Precious Opal from Ethiopia Abstract: Chabazite inclusion in an Ethiopian opal. Photomicrograph by Aurélien Delaunay; field of view 1.42 mm.

An opal received for analysis at the Laboratoire Français de Gemmologie (LFG) in Paris was classified as a light opal, with a bodycolor that matched to neutral gray N8 on the Munsell scale. The play-of-color was divided into sections with well-defined outlines that fit together or were rounded off in the form of digits (B. Rondeau et al., “On the origin of digit patterns in gem opal,” Fall 2013 G&G, pp. 138–146). The drilled bead weighed 12.02 ct and measured 13.4 mm in diameter. It contained small black inclusions of pyrite but also a crystalline inclusion in the form of aggregated pseudocubes (see above). This inclusion was identified as chabazite via Raman analysis. The pseudocubes were in fact near-cubic rhombohedra.
While this mineral has already been documented in veins and opal nodules from Ethiopia, it is rarely seen in cut stones (B. Chauviré, “Genèse de silice supergène sur Terre et implications sur Mars,” PhD thesis, University of Nantes, 2015; N.D. Renfro and S.F. McClure, “Dyed purple hydrophane opal,” Winter 2011 G&G, pp. 260–270). Chabazite, CaAl2Si4O12·6H2O, is a member of the zeolite family. This mineral is formed in gaseous cavities of extrusive volcanic rocks, which is similar to how opals from Ethiopia form. This inclusion is also proof of the Ethiopian geographic origin of this gem, as it has not been described in opal from other localities. Source: GIA @topic:11


Title: Clarity-Enhanced Glass Imitating Emerald Abstract: Figure 1. Round gas bubbles in host material and flat gas bubbles within the break of fractures. Photomicrograph by Michaela Stephan; field of view 1.99 mm.

The Carlsbad lab received a transparent green octagonal step cut for identification. This stone visually resembled emerald due to its rich green color and large fractures. However, its single refractive index of 1.510 was not consistent with emerald’s double refractive index of 1.577 to 1.583.
Examination with a standard gemological microscope revealed no natural inclusions. Instead, it showed rounded gas bubbles in the body as well as flattened gas bubbles in surface-reaching fractures (figure 1). This stone has also been examined with FTIR and long-wave UV. When observed with long-wave UV, the fractures emitted a weak white fluorescence while the body of the stone showed a very weak blue fluorescence. The presence of these features was enough to conclude it had been clarity enhanced.

Figure 2. Shown are the infrared spectrum for the octagonal step cut (red line) and the typical reference spectrum for manufactured glass (dotted black line). The spectra have been offset for clarity.
Additionally, rounded gas bubbles separate from fractures, an RI of 1.51, and the sample’s FTIR spectrum (figure 2) were consistent with manufactured glass.
These gemological properties and observations identified the material as clarity-enhanced manufactured glass. Due to emerald’s high value, it is common for imitations to show up in the market. Items such as this demonstrate the need to always be cautious when purchasing gemstones. Source: GIA @topic:3


Title: Ruby History and Lore Abstract: To commemorate the 50th anniversary of The Wizard of Oz, Harry Winston created real ruby slippers set with 4,600 rubies. - Courtesy Harry Winston

                      Red is the color of our most intense emotions—love and anger, passion and fury. It’s associated with objects of power and desire—like fast cars and red roses. Early cultures treasured rubies for their similarity to the redness of the blood that flowed through their veins, and believed that rubies held the power of life.

Ruby is one of the most historically significant colored stones. Rubies are mentioned four times in the Bible, in association with attributes like beauty and wisdom. In the ancient language of Sanskrit, ruby is called ratnaraj, or “king of precious stones.”

In the first century AD, the Roman scholar Pliny included rubies in his Natural History, describing their hardness and density. Ancient Hindus believed that those who offered fine rubies to the god Krishna were granted rebirth as emperors.

Hindus divided ruby into four castes, calling the true Oriental ruby a Brahmin. Someone in possession of a Brahmin was believed to have the advantage of perfect safety.

Ruby has accumulated a host of legends over the centuries. People in India believed that rubies enabled their owners to live in peace with their enemies. In Burma (a ruby source since at least 600 AD—now called Myanmar), warriors possessed rubies to make them invincible in battle. However, it wasn’t enough to just wear the rubies. They had to insert them into their flesh and make them part of their bodies.

The name ruby comes from the Latin word ruber, which means “red.” The glowing red of ruby suggested an inextinguishable flame burning in the stone, even shining through clothing and able to boil water.

Ruby has been called the most precious of the 12 stones created by God.

Ruby retained its importance with the birth of the western world and became one of the most sought-after gems of European royalty and the upper classes. Many medieval Europeans wore rubies to guarantee health, wealth, wisdom, and success in love.

Desire for ruby is just as great today as it always has been. As a symbol of passion, ruby makes an ideal romantic gift. Consumers are drawn to the lush color because it also signifies wealth and success. Source: GIA @topic:1


Title: Jade History and Lore Abstract: This jadeite "Peiyao" (Chinese Fu dog) represent mythological creatures that guard and protect celestial palaces and entrances. - Gift of Sophie Leu

                      Jade has been cherished for thousands of years. It’s considered pure and enduring enough to inspire the wearer’s highest spiritual aspirations, yet sensuous and luxurious enough to satisfy down-to-earth cravings. Asian consumers have never lost their fascination for jade, and today, non-Asian buyers are drawn to jade as never before. All are attracted by its rich heritage as much as by its beauty, durability, and rarity.

Nephrite jade has its cultural roots in the smoke-dimmed caves and huts that sheltered prehistoric humans. In China, Europe, and elsewhere around the world, Stone Age workers shaped this toughest of minerals into weapons, tools, ornaments, and ritual objects. Their carvings invoked the powers of heaven and earth and mystic forces of life and death.

	Nephrite carvings have been popular in China for centuries. Photo courtesy China Gems.
The ancient relationship between this gemstone and humanity persisted into modern times among native societies in New Zealand and parts of North America. In China it evolved into an artistic tradition that has flourished for more than 3,000 years.

In Central America, the Mayans and the Aztecs prized jadeite jade. They used it for medicinal purposes as well as for jewelry, ornaments, and religious artifacts. The name jade comes from the Spanish expression piedra de ijada—literally “stone of the pain in the side.” Early Spanish explorers named it after they saw natives holding pieces of the stone to their sides to cure or relieve various aches and pains. Jadeite also symbolizes prosperity, success, and good luck.

It was in China—where the gem-carving tradition was already thousands of years old—that jadeite reached its peak as an important artistic medium. The first jadeite reached China from Burma (now known as Myanmar) in the late 1700s, and late eighteenth and early nineteenth century carvers created masterpieces that are still unsurpassed in concept, design, and technical execution.

The Chinese associate jade with clarity of mind and purity of spirit. Some of the ancient symbolic motifs still used in modern jade carvings (both nephrite and jadeite) include:

		Bat—happiness

		Butterfly—long life

		Dragon—power, prosperity, and goodness

		Peach—immortality

		Bi (flat circular disk with a hole in the center) - heaven

	This butterfly pin has wings carved from fine lavender jadeite. The butterfly symbolizes long life. - Courtesy Mason-Kay Fine Jade Jewelry

	The simple elegance of the disk-shaped Chinese eternity symbol, or bi, carries great spiritual significance for many Asians. - Courtesy Mason-Kay Fine Jade Jewelry Source: GIA @topic:12


Title: Rare Faceted Neptunite Abstract: Figure 1. This unusual 11.78 ct faceted neptunite appeared to be black but was actually a dark orangy red. Photo by Robison McMurtry.

              An 11.78 ct faceted “black” octagonal modified step-cut stone was recently presented to the Carlsbad laboratory for identification (figure 1). Standard gemological testing revealed an RI of 1.69–1.73 and a hydrostatic SG of 3.19. Microscopic examination with a fiber-optic light source showed the stone was actually a very dark orangy red. It was heavily included with fractures and platelets, as well as randomly oriented unidentified thin needles evenly distributed throughout the gem (figure 2). These tests suggested neptunite, an identity confirmed using Raman spectroscopy.

	Figure 2. The orangy red neptunite contained dense needles of unknown composition. Field of view: 1.72 mm. Photo by Nathan Renfro.

	Neptunite commonly occurs in association with, and as a guest inclusion in, the rare blue mineral benitoite (E.J. Gübelin and J.I. Koivula, Photoatlas of Inclusions in Gemstones, Vol. 1, ABC Edition, Zurich, 1986). Both minerals are Ti-bearing silicates. Benitoite may contain whitish inclusions of crossite (an amphibole) or natrolite (a zeolite), so it is possible that the thin needles in this neptunite are composed of one of these metamorphic minerals. The main source of neptunite is San Benito, California, where it is found along the walls of natrolite veins in blueschist (B. Laurs et al., “Benitoite from the New Idria District, San Benito County, California,” Fall 1997 G&G, pp. 166–187). The type locality for this material is the Narsarsuk pegmatite in Greenland (O.V. Petersen and O. Johnsen, “Mineral species first described from Greenland,” Canadian Mineralogist, Special Publication No. 8, 2005, pp. 76–77). Neptunite crystals have been found in sizes up to a few inches, but they are rarely faceted because of their brittle nature and relative softness (5–6 on the Mohs scale). The few crystals that are faceted usually weigh less than 1 ct, making this large specimen of particular interest. To the best of our knowledge, this is the first faceted neptunite identified by GIA. Source: GIA @topic:2


Title: Finds from the Secondary Market Abstract: Figure 1. Two of B&B's most spectacular finds on the secondary market were these two red beryls from Utah, which has been out of production for decades. Photos by Kevin Schumacher.
During the AGTA show, Dave Bindra of B&B Fine Gems (Los Angeles) showed us some noteworthy pieces from a gem collection he acquired last year and shared his thoughts about the state of the colored stone market.

Bindra noted that B&B is very active in searching the secondary markets for unique material. Last year, they came into a significant collection from a client. Several of the items had previously been in B&B’s stock, though the collection contains stones from all over the world. Among them are two incredible red beryls from Utah: a 3.01 ct emerald cut and a 4.08 ct round brilliant (figure 1) that is the world’s largest round red beryl. Bindra considers these two of the most important red beryls on the market. Red beryl from Utah has been well out of production in these sizes for decades.

Fabulous Finds from the Secondary Market
Dave Bindra of B&B Fine Gems shows some exemplary material from the secondary market.
Another highlight was a 61.92 ct Imperial topaz of unknown provenance and free of heat treatment (see figure 3 of the 2018 Tucson overview). The very rich sherry color in unheated Imperial topaz is extremely rare. That, plus the clarity and size, makes for an impressive stone of museum quality.

Also on display was a collection of 2–3 ct Kashmir sapphires, material that Bindra said customers are seeking, particularly in the Southeast Asian market. Kashmir sapphires have been out of production and even circulation for many years and are often found only at estate sales. Other remarkable stones from the collection included a 76.50 ct sphene with coloring reminiscent of a Christmas tree and a sugarloaf-cut 38.46 ct tanzanite (figure 2).

Figure 2. Also part of a collection purchased from a client was this 38.46 ct sugarloaf-cut tanzanite. Photo by Albert Salvato.
Bindra sees unprecedented demand for colored gemstones, particularly the high-end and unusual, making this an exciting time for those who deal in the rare and esoteric. There are a number of factors at play, including the influx of new consumers domestically and abroad, particularly in Southeast Asia, though the Chinese market is less active than in previous years. Record-breaking auction prices are also driving up the value of colored gems. Bindra cited commercial-quality Mozambique ruby as an example; the very finest specimens from that country still command top prices. The highest-quality Mozambique rubies exhibit a subtle fluorescence, giving them a glow reminiscent of Burmese material. B&B has sold some of the extraordinary pieces that were featured in previous G&G Tucson reports. Bindra believes that many Americans have generated new wealth and view colored gemstones in the same way they see other tangible and collectible assets, such as luxury cars and fine art. This has been a great boon to the market. As Bindra noted, “The time for color is now.” Source: GIA @topic:7


Title: Unheated and Unusual Colors Abstract: Figure 1. Madagascar Imports exhibited an array of small unheated stones, including 3.3 mm round brilliant lavender spinel from the Bekily region (left), and 2.5 mm round brilliant purple sapphire from Ilakaka (right). Photos by Jennifer Stone-Sundberg.
Margit Thorndal of Madagascar Imports, Ltd. (Laurel, Montana) was one of several AGTA vendors carrying small stones in today’s hottest colors. Thorndal showed two of her most popular stones from Madagascar: lavender spinel from the Bekily region and purple sapphire from Ilakaka (figure 1). Both materials are unheated and represent unique colors, particularly the lavender spinel.

Thorndal indicated that buyers appreciate the unheated and nontypical colors. Along with purple stones from Madagascar, she has been doing very well with pink and orange Malaya garnet from the Bekily region and bright yellow-green demantoid. The rough from Madagascar is all precision cut by hand into melee at a single facility in Bangkok. The finished stones are used by designers creating one-of-a-kind pieces, jewelers performing custom work, and manufacturers producing higher-end goods. She also showed a suite of 21 unheated Ilakaka sapphires totaling 22 carats that displayed attractive pastel hues (figure 2).

Figure 2. Suite of 21 unheated Ilakaka sapphires, approximately 1 ct each. Photo by Jennifer Stone-Sundberg.
Another item that has been doing very well for Madagascar Imports is unheated Montana sapphire, particularly in teal hues, a sentiment echoed at many other AGTA booths. There is strong demand for American gemstones, particularly untreated ones. Source: GIA @topic:1


Title: Faceted Chiolite Abstract: Figure 1. This 1.04 ct colorless octagonal cut was identified as chiolite. Photo by Diego Sanchez.

Recently, the GIA lab in Carlsbad received a colorless 1.04 ct gemstone of a material that was new to the lab (figure 1). The measured refractive index was 1.342–1.349 with a birefringence of 0.007 and an optic character of uniaxial negative. The specific gravity, measured hydrostatically, was 3.01. These properties were consistent with the mineral chiolite, which was confirmed by Raman spectroscopy (see figure 2 and http://rruff.info/R050412).

Figure 2. Raman spectroscopy confirmed the colorless stone’s identity as chiolite.
Chiolite is a very rare transparent to translucent colorless or snow-white mineral with a vitreous luster, perfect cleavage in one direction, and a white streak. It crystallizes in the tetragonal system and is composed of sodium and aluminum, with the formula Na5Al3F14 (the presence of these elements was confirmed with EDXRF). The principal source of gem-quality material is Ivigtut, Greenland, where it occurs in association with cryolite. Other gem-quality sources include Miass in the Ilmen Mountains region of Russia, where it is found in a cryolite pegmatite, and the Morefield pegmatite mine in Virginia (see AZoMining.com). The mineral was first discovered at Miass in 1846. The name is very similar to cryolite, a related mineral. Cryolite comes from Greek for “ice stone,” while chiolite means “snow stone.” Like their namesakes, they are sometimes found together, though chiolites are rarer.
This gem has a very low hardness (3.5–4 on the Mohs scale) and perfect cleavage. The stones are usually small and nondescript. Nevertheless, chiolite has joined the ranks of minerals cut by faceters who wish to try their hand at everything clean enough to cut, and a cut stone would make quite a specimen for a gem collection.
Chiolite occurs in some granite pegmatites and is associated with ralstonite, pachnolite, elpasolite, cryolite, thomsenolite, cryolithionite, fluorite, phenakite, and topaz (see mindat.org and rruff.info).
Chiolite is difficult to cut, extremely rare, and has little commercial appeal. It is solely a curiosity in the gem world. Source: GIA @topic:2


Title: Rare Faceted Wurtzite Abstract: Figure 1. This 3.97 ct faceted wurtzite has an adamantine luster and brownish red bodycolor.

              Recently the Carlsbad laboratory examined a 3.97 ct transparent brownish red pear-shaped modified brilliant for identification service (figure 1). Standard gemological testing revealed a refractive index that was over the limit of the RI liquid and a specific gravity (obtained hydrostatically) of 3.96. There was no fluorescence observed with exposure to long- and short-wave UV light. The stone also displayed an adamantine luster and a uniaxial optic figure when examined with polarized light. Microscopic examination with a fiber-optic light source showed fine needles and a large reflective decrepitation halo surrounding a negative crystal. Examination also revealed that the decrepitation halo was perpendicular to the optic-axis direction, suggesting the stone had basal cleavage (figure 2).

	Figure 2. A decrepitation halo surrounds a negative crystal in the faceted wurtzite. Photomicrograph by Nathan Renfro; field of view 2.15 mm.
Raman spectroscopy and X-ray powder diffraction conclusively identified the stone as wurtzite. EDXRF analysis detected zinc and sulfur, which further supported this identification.

Wurtzite, a polymorph of sphalerite, commonly occurs in hydrothermal vein deposits associated with barite and sphalerite. Facet-grade wurtzite has been reported to occur in Merelani, Tanzania (Winter 2013 GNI, p. 261). This is the first wurtzite examined by the GIA laboratory. Source: GIA @topic:2


Title: From Brazil to China: The Journey of Rubellite Tourmaline Abstract: After witnessing the mining of rubellite tourmaline at the Cruzeiro mine in Brazil, our representative was able to visit the factory in China where the mine’s stones are cut. Photo by Andrew Lucas/GIA, courtesy Cruzeiro mine.

                      In April 2014, a team from GIA traveled to Brazil to document some of the country’s most important emerald and tourmaline mines. One of the mines the group visited was the Cruzeiro, owned by Nevestones, a family company. The Cruzeiro is a prolific Brazilian tourmaline mine that produces about eight tons of tourmaline each year, 20 percent of which is rubellite.

	Cutting in China

	This video takes you through the cutting factory and headquarters of a company that fashions large quantities of tourmaline and other colored gemstones for China and the global market. You’ll also witness the creation of a faceted colored stone.
In June 2014, a member of the GIA team, Andrew Lucas, traveled to Asia to attend Gemfields’ first Mozambique ruby auction in Singapore and to teach a two-week GIA law enforcement gemology seminar in Hong Kong. While there, he visited the Hong Kong office and Shenzhen factory where Cruzeiro’s rubellite is fashioned and distributed to the market.

	The Miranda Group
Our representative’s documentation of the journey of rubellite tourmaline from Brazil to China began at the Hong Kong office of Miranda Group Co. Ltd. There, he interviewed Miranda Costa, a co-founder of the company. They spoke in detail about his experience in the market and the connection between Brazil’s rubellite tourmaline and the Chinese market. Mr. Costa had been a partner in Miranda Gem Hong Kong between 2005 and 2009. When that company closed in 2009, Mr. Costa co-founded Miranda Group Co. Ltd.

Miranda Costa of Miranda Group Co. Ltd. examines parcels of rubellite that were cut at the company’s factory in Shenzhen. Photo by Andrew Lucas/GIA, courtesy Miranda Group Co. Ltd.
The Miranda Group started working with rubellite in 2010 and entered into a joint venture with KGK, a global diamond, colored stone, and jewelry wholesaler, to acquire and market rubellite in China. At that time, the Miranda Group was buying rubellite from Africa. In 2011, they started working with the Cruzeiro mine and its owners, the Neves family.

	The Business Model
Today, the Cruzeiro mine, the Miranda Group, and KGK work together to bring Brazil’s rubellite tourmaline to the market in China. The Cruzeiro mine provides the rough rubellite to the Miranda Group, which cuts the material. The rough crystals are sliced or sawn in the Miranda Group office in Hong Kong, and then faceted and polished at the factory in Shenzhen, China. The stones then go to KGK’s factory and offices in Panyu, China.

KGK markets and sells the cut stones and also mounts cut stones into jewelry for sale, primarily in China. The Cruzeiro mine also cuts its own facet-grade green and blue tourmaline in Brazil and produces bicolor and multicolor tourmaline, which the Miranda Group has been cutting and stockpiling.

Rubellite rough is sawn at Miranda Group Co. Ltd. facilities in Hong Kong before being sent to the factory in Shenzhen for preforming and faceting. Photo by Andrew Lucas/GIA, courtesy Miranda Group Co. Ltd.
The Miranda Group can cut about 25,000 to 30,000 carats a month at their factory in Shenzhen. They then provide the cut stones to KGK. The Miranda Group also works with bicolor tourmaline, aquamarine, morganite, emerald, and Mozambique ruby. They cut these materials and work with KGK to sell primarily to the Chinese market. They also deal in Mozambique copper-bearing tourmaline and Brazilian Paraíba tourmaline which, in cooperation with KGK, they will supply to the market in 2015.

The factory in Shenzhen was cutting tourmaline as well as morganite during the visit. Photo by Andrew Lucas/GIA, courtesy Miranda Group Co. Ltd.

After cutting a parcel of rubellite, the factory turned to cutting morganite, which has been growing in popularity in China. This rough morganite crystal is being sawn as part of the process. Photo by Andrew Lucas/GIA, courtesy Miranda Group Co. Ltd.

	Interview with Miranda Costa

	Fashioned Rubellite Production
The Miranda Group needs to receive 100 kilos of rough rubellite a month to meet its production goal of 25,000 to 30,000 carats. They promote more-included material for beads and carvings. The company’s goals for facet-grade material are to produce clean stones that meet the requirements of the high-end Chinese market.

Maintaining quality cutting procedures, resulting in clean stones, is of optimum concern in the factory. Photo by Andrew Lucas/GIA, courtesy Miranda Group Co. Ltd.
In the United States, the Miranda Group plans to market gems of three carats or smaller, to meet what they feel is the right price point for that market. In China, there is a ready market for sizes over three carats, including very large sizes of 100 carats or more.

Miranda Costa estimates that the demand from the Chinese market has caused the price of rubellite tourmaline to double over the last three years. Even though there is current resistance to the high prices, the company still finds it difficult to meet the demand for fine-quality faceted stones, so he thinks there is still room for price increases.

At the Miranda Group Co. Ltd. office in Hong Kong, parcels of fine-color, clean rubellites in large sizes were being sorted for delivery to KGK. Photo by Andrew Lucas/GIA, courtesy Miranda Group Co. Ltd.
For high-end consumers, the rubellite needs to be well proportioned, bright, and clean, and have fine color. Because these qualities are essential, the Miranda Group only gets about 12 percent weight retention from the rough.

The faceting equipment was optimized for precision and speed. Some machines use a two-wheel set-up that cuts the facets and then polishes them without a need for stopping and changing wheels. Photo by Andrew Lucas/GIA, courtesy Miranda Group Co. Ltd.
Since many of the crystals from the Cruzeiro mine are bicolor or multicolored, the Miranda Group also cuts that material. Many of the tourmaline crystals from Cruzeiro are zoned with black, green, and rubellite colors. The Miranda Group has been cutting and accumulating green-and-rubellite material over the last two years, so they have about 80,000 to 100,000 carats in stock now. They plan on marketing it in the US and China in the near future.

The Miranda Group obtains green-and-rubellite bicolor tourmaline rough for cutting. Photo by Andrew Lucas/GIA, courtesy Miranda Group Co. Ltd.

The Miranda Group is stockpiling inventory to launch a marketing campaign with KGK for bicolor tourmaline. Photo by Andrew Lucas/GIA, courtesy Miranda Group Co. Ltd.
Comparing Brazilian rubellite tourmaline rough to the material Miranda Costa used to get from Nigeria, he finds the Cruzeiro material to be cleaner, with better crystallization and more even color.  Mr. Costa sees much less Nigerian material on the market today, and the prices are much higher than when the company was buying large quantities in 2010.

Brazilian rough can yield fine-color, clean, bright, and good-sized stones. However, to meet those standards, the weight loss is high, saving only an average of 12 percent of the rough weight. Photo by Andrew Lucas/GIA, courtesy Miranda Group Co. Ltd.

	Completing the Journey
Visiting a mining operation and witnessing the challenges involved in bringing colored gemstones out of the earth gives you a sense of perspective on how rare and valuable they really are. It’s exhilarating to observe the production at a prolific mine like the Cruzeiro, where impressive crystals come right out of the ground in large quantities. It’s also satisfying to complete the journey by seeing the rough crystals turned into beautiful faceted stones. Finally, seeing the ferocious and increasing appetite of a consuming country for the material puts the relationship between supply and demand perfectly in perspective. Source: GIA @topic:1


Title: Banded Mimetite Abstract: Figure 1. This mimetite cabochon, likely from Bolivia, weighs 177.75 ct and has an agate-like structure of yellow-brown and dark brown layers. Photo by Jaroslav Hyršl.

Mimetite is a member of the apatite group and a lead chloro-arsenate, known to collectors as one of the rarest faceted stones. Some yellow transparent specimens weighing up to 1 ct are known from old finds in Tsumeb, Namibia. Small orange translucent stones under 0.5 ct have been faceted from Chinese mimetite, and a new type of lapidary mimetite (figure 1), likely from Bolivia but purchased in Tucson without a reported locality, was identified recently.
The cabochon measured 40.5 × 31.7 × 7.2 mm and weighed 177.75 ct, with a very high luster. Its lapidary work was of low quality, but the stone had a very nice agate-like structure, with alternating yellow-brown and dark brown layers. It closely resembled two unusual ornamental stones: the colloidal variety of sphalerite (figure 2) known by the German name schalenblende, and the colloidal cassiterite variety called “wood tin.” Schalenblende is known from many localities worldwide, mainly Poland but also Bolivia, where it is very difficult to visually distinguish from mimetite. Wood tin is known to be from Bolivia and Mexico.

Figure 2. The sphalerite variety schalenblende has characteristics similar to those of banded mimetite. This specimen weighs 106.20 ct. Photo by Jaroslav Hyršl.
The RI of all three minerals is very high, over the refractometer limit. Loose stones can be easily distinguished by their hardness and specific gravity, and the hardness of mimetite and schalenblende is the same, about 3.5 on the Mohs scale. Wood tin is much harder, about 6.5. The SG of the mimetite was 6.31, considerably higher than the 3.8–4.2 of a typical schalenblende. The SG of wood tin can vary from 5.2 to 6.6, likely depending on the presence of thin chalcedony layers. Mimetite and wood tin are also inert in UV light, while schalenblende is usually yellow in long-wave UV. The mimetite was identified by powder X-ray diffraction by John Attard of San Diego, but its exact origin could not be determined. Thin veins of mimetite deposited from hot springs are known to have been mined from a deposit in Lomitas, located in La Paz Department, Bolivia. Source: GIA @topic:2


Title: Geologist’s Newest Mission: Share the Love of Colored Gemstones Abstract: “You’ll always be learning,” says Robert Gessner. “You’ll never know it all, and our industry is always growing and changing.” Gessner, a colored stone geologist who earned his GIA GG after more than a decade of working in Africa’s mines, is pictured underground in a Zambian emerald deposit in 2014. Photo by Vincent Pardieu/GIA

“Adventure is in my blood,” says Robert Gessner, a GIA Graduate Gemologist (GG) and Cape Town-born geologist who is the owner of Gessner Gems, a sourcing and curatorship firm for colored stones.

Gessner’s parents are of European descent – his maternal grandparents were Dutch diplomats who retired in South Africa, and his father’s family came from Germany before settling in Mozambique. When the Gessners married and started a family in South Africa, they never stopped exploring.

“I was fortunate growing up in a family that loved the outdoors and travel,” says Gessner, the eldest of four children. “By the age of 16, I’d traveled most of South Africa. We were always seeing something new, and it became etched on my soul. Now, there is no adventure to a new destination that I’d pass up easily. I love to meet new people, be exposed to their culture and see their country’s beauty.”

The family’s shared enthusiasm for exploration extended to the natural world.

“My earliest exposure to rocks and minerals was through monthly magazine supplements that my mom purchased from our local newsstand,” Gessner says. “They included a mineral and gemstone in a little display box, and as the months went by, the file of information about our earth, rocks and minerals – as well as the collection of specimens itself – grew into an impressive display. The beauty, variety and perfection of each gem had me hooked.”

Though his family had lived and traveled around South Africa, it wasn’t until college at the University of Cape Town that Gessner says the world truly opened up for him. He graduated with a Bachelor’s degree in geology in 2002, and said the discipline gave him “direction, a goal and access to a professional career.”

A self-described “eternal optimist,” Gessner submitted his near-empty resume to a local recruiting agency. Within weeks, he was contacted for a position as a geologist in Tanzania and accepted right away.

“It turned out to be the early years of the company that became Tanzanite One, the biggest, most technological colored gemstone miner and supplier of tanzanite to the world,” he says.

“My favorite thing about my career has been seeing the beauty of the finest gemstones and specimens and hearing stories from the owners who display them,” says Robert Gessner, inspecting a piece of tanzanite rough. He recently joined William Noble Rare Jewels as a colored gemstone specialist, and owns Gessner Gems, which specializes in sourcing and curating colored gemstones. Photo by Brendan Laurs/GIA
Some of Gessner’s new colleagues were earning their Graduate Gemologist diplomas through GIA’s Distance Education program, and he was intrigued. “It was the first time I’d heard of GIA,” he says. “I wanted to get involved.” He earned his Accredited Jewelry Professional diploma in 2008.

Gessner spent six and a half years in Tanzania before joining Gemfields PLC’s Kagem Mine in Zambia, working another six and a half years there.

“After 13 years of colored gemstone mining and exploration in East Africa, I was looking for my next opportunity,” he says.

Gessner started with a trip to the United States – his first ever – in 2015 for the Tucson gem and mineral shows. As a GIA alumnus, he knew about the Alumni Association’s annual dance party, and he knew he would have a chance to network and discover new paths within the industry.

“It was life-changing,” he says. “It was a 10-year reunion for me, meeting with all the field gemologists, scientists, writers and editors and professionals from our industry whom I had hosted, met and gotten to know in the mines.”

As a specialist in African colored stones, such as tanzanite, tsavorite and Zambian emeralds, investigating gemstones from Southeast Asia and South America also piqued his interest.

“Seeing all the gemstones and minerals from around the world lit a spark to learn all about them,” he says. “For continued career growth, studying at GIA was a no-brainer.”

Robert Gessner’s marriage to Los Angeles designer Melissa Spencer, GIA GG, began two years after the pair’s unexpected meeting at the GIA Alumni Association dance party. “It was love at first sight,” says Gessner, celebrating with Spencer on their March 2017 wedding day. Photo by Trent Bailey. Courtesy of Robert Gessner and Melissa Spencer
But the life-changing moments in Tucson didn’t stop with professional and academic changes. He met a Southern California jewelry designer named Melissa Spencer at the alumni dance party and after just a few dances, Gessner – who was being groomed for a position as general manager of Gemfields – knew he would not be returning to Africa.

“When you know, you know,” he says. “There was an immediate connection, like the stars and galaxies aligned. We have been inseparable since then. Our meeting at the GIA Alumni Association party was meant to be and changed our lives.”

Gessner returned to Zambia the next week and resigned from Gemfields. He also enrolled in GIA’s Graduate Gemologist program in residence at Carlsbad – much closer to Spencer, a GIA GG who was living in Los Angeles. Gessner graduated from GIA in March 2016, and married Spencer in March 2017.

“I enjoyed every single moment, particularly while in residence,” he says. “GIA’s practical and theoretical education platform and resources, including the staff and library, are world-class. The lab classes and practical work are vital, and supplemented by the literature and theory, they lay the foundation for a career. The relationships and friendships that I made there – and continue to make through GIA – helped equip me for success.”

Gessner Gems has just turned two years old and Gessner is thrilled to connect clients with fine colored gemstones from around the world.

“I share knowledge about gems with each client – its source, if known, what makes it different from other sources, if and why the gem is treated, and the romance of its geological origins in describing its rarity,” he says.

In addition to his own business, Gessner has recently accepted a position as a colored gemstone specialist with William Noble Rare Jewels in Dallas, Texas. He has also begun writing for trade publications, including GemGuide and AGTA’s Prism magazine.

In the same way that geology – and eventually, gemology – opened doors to learning and adventure around the globe, Gessner hopes that sharing his knowledge will open doors for others.

“I want to help take colored gemstones mainstream,” he says. “I want the public to know so much more about colored gemstones, to share the excitement and passion.” Source: GIA @topic:7


Title: Rex Guo: The Science and Art of Recutting Fine Gemstones Abstract: Figure 1. The Geometeer, a synthetic ruby cut in a hybrid Portuguese-brilliant design, is dedicated to Rex Guo's mathematics professor and mentor, Dr. Timothy Poston. Photo by Rex Guo.

Deciding how to cut a gemstone is inevitably one of the most difficult decisions when transforming a piece of rough into a fine faceted gem. The three main factors to consider are final carat weight, color, and light performance (a general term describing the brilliance and scintillation of a faceted stone). In most cases, optimizing one of these factors comes only by sacrificing something else. This is especially true for light performance, which often suffers at the expense of carat weight. The colored stone market has historically demanded that cutters produce goods with the highest possible weight in the finished stone. This often leads to cuts that are not designed to optimize light performance. In recent years, however, there has been an increasing demand in the high-end colored stone market for precision cuts and optimized light performance. This year at Tucson we had the chance to sit down with Rex Guo, whose Singapore-based Sutra Gems focuses on sourcing and systematically recutting faceted stones to unlock their inner beauty.

Guo is a self-taught gem cutter who came into this profession after spending 20 years working with computer graphics and video editing software. In 2015, he decided to take a sabbatical from software to pursue his passion for gemstones. The seed of his passion was planted during childhood, when he discovered an amethyst geode among a pile of sand in his schoolyard. This inspiration stuck with him and was fueled by years of formal engineering studies, which now serve as the backbone of his lapidary art. This technical foundation led to his realization in 2016 that optimizing the interaction of light with a faceted gemstone was exactly the sort of problem he had been working on for 20 years in 3D graphics software. Guo’s mathematical mentor, the late Professor Timothy “Geometeer” Poston, was the inspiration for one of his latest creations, currently featured in the Somewhere In The Rainbow exhibit at the University of Arizona Gem and Mineral Museum. The Geometeer (figure 1), dedicated to Poston, is a precision-cut synthetic ruby in an innovative hybrid brilliant-Portuguese cut designed with Guo’s proprietary gem design and optical simulation software, Axiom.

Rex Guo’s Gem Cutting JourneyRex Guo reflects on how his previous career as a software editor impacts his current work as a self-taught gem cutter who recuts faceted stones.
While Guo enjoys the privilege of cutting from fine gem rough, about 80% of his work is in recuts. Given the ever-increasing price of rough material, recutting provides an opportunity to work with very fine material that would otherwise be difficult to obtain. He starts with excruciatingly accurate measurements of the geometry of the original faceted stone. Every angle of every facet must be recorded for input into Axiom. This software allows him to experiment with many possible recut designs to see how changing any single facet will affect the appearance of the final stone. Guo works very closely with his clients in this stage of the process to ensure they are getting what they want out of the recut. There are multiple paths that can be taken. The stone can be recut with an emphasis on saving weight, or a bolder design can be chosen with better light performance to bring out the stone’s inner beauty, but with more significant weight loss. At this point Guo finds he has to walk a fine line between presenting himself as a master craftsman and as a scientist. While diagrams from his software are useful to show clients various options, he avoids coming across as overly technical so as not to detract from the emotional and romantic aspect of his craft. He quips, “Machines and software don’t understand beauty—humans do.”

Figure 2. Guo's light performance-optimized unheated blue sapphire. Photo by Rex Guo.
Guo is very much on a journey through the world of gemstone faceting. He started with round patterns, as most cutters do. Once he understood rounds, he moved on to optimizing trilliant and oval cuts. In the future, he plans to experiment with squares, rectangles, and more. The light performance–optimized cuts in which he specializes are best exhibited in high-RI materials. For this reason, he has set a minimum refractive index of 1.72 for stones he works with, a playing field that includes spinel, zircon, garnet, ruby, and sapphire (figure 2). Test cuts are often used before recutting important stones.

Spinels are one of his favorite stones to cut. The high RI and rich color of fine spinel produce stones that are “just divine.” Zircons are another favorite, as they have a much higher RI than most other natural stones. With such a cornucopia of gem materials in front of him, Rex Guo’s lapidary journey has just begun. Source: GIA @topic:7


Title: Unusual Bodycolors ofPrecious Opal Abstract: Figure 1. Both of these precious opals show an unusual and attractive bodycolor. The opal on the left is a 6.71 ct transparent pink cushion brilliant. On the right is a 2.37 ct transparent orange round brilliant. Photo by Robison McMurtry.

Two faceted loose stones with unusual bodycolors (figure 1) were recently submitted to the Carlsbad laboratory for an identification report. The first, a 2.37 ct transparent round brilliant, showed a weak to moderate play-of-color with irregular color patches and brushstrokes. It exhibited an attractive orange bodycolor (similar to the hue of some padparadscha sapphires) and a light degree of haziness. Careful microscopic examination revealed turbid orangy clouds and waves of coarse particles. The larger specimen, a 6.71 ct transparent cushion brilliant, also displayed a weak to moderate play-of-color but more of a pink bodycolor. A similarly hazy appearance from clouds of orangy red particles and tiny black inclusions was also observed (figure 2).

Figure 2. The pink opal contained clouds of tiny orangy red particles. Photo by Nathan Renfro; field of view 2.88 mm.
Standard gemological properties were consistent with opal. The orange and pink stones both had a specific gravity of 2.03, with refractive indices of 1.442 and 1.445, respectively. Both were inert to long-wave and short-wave UV light. No indication of clarity enhancement, color treatment, or dye was observed in either. The two stones were therefore identified as natural opal with natural color.

A single drop of water placed on the surface of each stone was observed under direct transmitted light with the microscope in brightfield mode. The opals showed no indication of porosity and did not absorb the water, suggesting they were not hydrophane material (Fall 2013 Lab Notes, pp. 175–176). Crazing was not seen in either opal.

Advanced gemological testing with energy-dispersive X-ray fluorescence (EDXRF) showed properties consistent with natural opal (SiO2· nH2O), but also the presence of Fe, most likely from the clouds of particles.

While the exact cause of these pink and orange bodycolors is unknown, the minute inclusions might be influencing the perceived color.

Our gemological observations confirmed the natural origin. However, further study on additional samples would be required to better understand the cause of color in these unique opals. They were reported to be from Mexico, but the author could find no reference consistent with this material. Source: GIA @topic:11


Title: Romancing the Source: Cruzeiro Mine, Brazil Abstract: Brazil

	Tons of tourmalines are mined in Brazil, with much of the production destined for China.

	This series of articles and videos follows a team of GIA Field Gemologists on their travels from the mountains of Afghanistan to the jungles of Sri Lanka in search of the sources of colored gemstones and the people who pursue them. This thrilling journey will take you to remote gemstone-mining areas, where you’ll witness the extreme effort required to wrestle nature’s treasures from the earth.

	The romance of a colored gemstone arises from its beauty, the exotic qualities of its source’s location, the adventure leading to its discovery, and the stories of the people who seek it. These factors have united to create the allure of gemstones through the ages, and continue to do so even in modern times.

Beatrice Neves examines two tourmaline crystals taken from the family mine’s tunnel walls. The Neves family pulled together after great loss, and through their strength, developed the Cruzeiro mine into a source reliable enough to meet China’s insatiable demand for tourmaline. Photo by Andrew Lucas/GIA.

	Brazil is blessed with a wide variety of gemstones, and the country is a major source of tourmaline. One of the country’s most productive states is Minas Gerais, which means “general mines.” This is where the Cruzeiro tourmaline mine is found. All colors of tourmaline are mined here, including the coveted reddish rubellite variety. The mine produces eight tons of tourmaline a year. Twenty percent of that is rubellite. Still, this massive amount finds an equally massive market in China.

	The Cruzeiro mine is also a story of tragedy, perseverance, and triumph. When two brothers were killed in a plane crash, the widow and son of one of the brothers and a son of the second brother took over the mine and developed it into an overwhelming success in the global market supply chain. Source: GIA @topic:1


Title: Trapiche Muscovite Abstract: Figure 1. Muscovite mica, known from a single locality in Japan, can display trapiche structure with both open (left) and closed (right) centers. Photomicrographs by Nathan Renfro; field of view 4.05 mm (left) and 4.56 mm (right).

	For collectors who appreciate crystals that display distinctive trapiche structure, muscovite offers a very interesting and unusual variety known to mineralogists as cerasite or “cherry blossom stones” due to its form. With a pseudohexagonal habit and a silvery luster, these muscovite pseudomorphs after indialite-cordierite intergrowths may, on rare occasion, show a well-developed trapiche structure (figure 1) virtually identical to that of fine-quality trapiche emerald.

	Trapiche muscovites come from only one locality, the Japanese city of Kameoka in Kyoto Prefecture, where they are locally known as “cherry blossom stones” (sakura-ishi in Japanese). Small and attractive, well-formed specimens are occasionally found when they weather out of a contact metamorphic hornfels.

	In figure 2, the closed-center specimen measures approximately 6.49 × 6.44 × 4.48 mm with a corresponding weight of 0.90 ct, while the one with the open center measures 4.71 × 4.27 × 5.21 mm and weighs 0.62 ct. Fine examples of these unusual muscovite pseudomorphs measuring over 6 mm and weighing over 1 ct are considered very rare.

Figure 2. These muscovite trapiches, or “cherry blossom stones,” formed through alteration of complex indialite-cordierite intergrowths. Photo by Nathan Renfro. Source: GIA @topic:2


Title: Fine Tsavorite and Spinel Abstract: Figure 1. This spectacular 12.46 ct tsavorite recently returned to Bruce Bridges’s inventory after being in a collector’s possession for many years. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA; courtesy of Bridges Tsavorite.

              Bruce Bridges (Bridges Tsavorite, Tucson) said that fine stones often return to his inventory after years in a collector’s possession. At the AGTA show, he showcased a vivid, top-quality 12.46 ct cushion-cut tsavorite fashioned some 15 years earlier, which made its way back into the market in the last two years (figure 1). As tsavorite rough has a high value, gems are typically cut to maximize weight. Rough is typically recovered as long, thin asymmetrical fragments that lend themselves to pear, marquise, and trilliant shapes. This example’s unusual square cushion shape, large size, color, and clarity make it a notable and rare gemstone.

Figure 2. This 18.21 ct Tanzanian red spinel was fashioned from material recovered from one of four enormous multi-kilogram crystals reputedly found in the Ipanko ruby and spinel mining area near Mahenge, Tanzania. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA; courtesy of Bridges Tsavorite.
After seeing the wealth and variety of gems on display at the Tucson gem shows, it might be easy to come away with the impression that fine colored stones are not particularly rare. Yet the truly magnificent stones are extremely rare and often have a memorable provenance. One such gem is the 18.21 ct triangular cut red spinel Bruce Bridges showed us at his AGTA booth (figure 2). According to Bridges, this magnificent gem was cut in 2007 in Bangkok from rough recovered in one astounding find in Tanzania’s Ipanko mining area that yielded several giant spinel crystals, one of which weighed in at over 50 kg. A number of other dealers at this year’s show, including Axel Henn, also displayed fine gems from this one extraordinary discovery. Source: GIA @topic:1


Title: Inside the Geode Business Abstract: Bob HalemManager, Royal West Warehouse

	Interview with Bob Halem, Manager, Royal West Warehouse
At age 79, Bob Halem loves reminiscing about the serendipity that brought him into the world of colored stones. He was strolling along the Oregon coast near his home when he came upon a group of beachcombers.  He went up to one of them to ask what they were looking for and the woman held out a beach agate. Fascinated right off, Bob bent over and started collecting bags full for himself. Twenty-five pounds of beach agates and tons of fine purple amethyst later, Bob proudly looks back on a career as a supplier of choice for museums such as The Smithsonian and some of the nation’s top interior designers.

In this exclusive interview with GIA conducted at the 2013 Tucson Gem Show, Bob reflects upon the early days when there was only one show in town; he now shakes his head in amazement at the 40 or so shows that dot the Tucson landscape every February. He also measures the time by his own schedule. In earlier days, he tells us, he attended up to 48 shows a year, or almost one a week. Nowadays he does just two, but the two he does are done for the sheer joy of it.

He can afford to scale back like that because Royal West Warehouse has firmly established itself as a dealer in first class geodes for its reliable customer base. Most of the company’s product comes from Brazil where its buyers handpick the specimens to send back to Oregon. For all its heftiness, the material can sometimes break or shatter during the mining, the shipping, or the unpacking. So care and precision are necessary all along the pipeline, and Bob is quick to tip his hat to his warehouse crew for the job they do in handling the valuable goods. Source: GIA @topic:7


Title: Market Insight From a  Colored Gem Dealer Abstract: Bill VanceVance Gems

	Interview with Bill Vance, Vance Gems
Bill Vance, a colored gemstone dealer from Delaware, sounds the twin notes of apprehension at the increasing worldwide scarcity of high-quality colored-stone rough, and excitement at the investment opportunity this presents for the middle-range buyer. He forecasts rising demand and falling supply of gem-quality rough with no end in sight, due to mines becoming defunct and miners leaving the industry. What is selling at gem shows now, he says, is only the high end “best of the best.”

Middle-class buyers from India, China, and the Far East with disposable income are acquiring peridot, tourmaline, blue zircon, tanzanite, and other colored gemstones. Although this is driving prices higher, according to Mr. Vance it is not yet too late for buyers in this country to purchase, for example, a good-size 5- to 6-carat tanzanite for $400-$550 per carat. Such a gemstone will continue to gain in value, and thanks to currently low interest on savings and other investment instruments, is literally “better than money in the bank.”

As a GIA Graduate Gemologist himself, Vance is enthusiastic about the value of a rigorous gemological education, followed by plenty of exposure to material in the field. Since the public is increasingly knowledgeable about purchasing gems, it is imperative that gem-related businesses hire educated and ethical personnel. Credibility is everything, and those in the field with well-earned good reputations will be able to stay the course.
His advice to students?  “Always trust your instruments, never ever sight-identify, and don’t be afraid to say ‘I don’t know but I’ll find out for you.’” Source: GIA @topic:7


Title: Unveiling a Chinese Luxury Jadeite Brand: A Visit to Zhaoyi Cuiwu in Beijing Abstract: This “Dancing Bird with Jade Feathers” jadeite necklace was made by Zhaoyi Cuiwu. The necklace’s evocative name comes from an impressionistic resemblance to a bird rather than a literal representation. The pendant portion of the necklace suggests the slender neck of a bird, and the portion above the flower clip suggests its wings. The green jadeite cabochons symbolize glistening bird feathers. The piece epitomizes a key difference between Chinese and Western jewelry design, in that the Chinese tend to focus on the symbolic, rather than naturalistic, representation of natural subjects. The necklace won the Media Attention Award in the China Jewelry Design and Manufacturing Contest. Photo courtesy of Zhaoyi Xintiandi Co. Ltd.

                      Zhaoyi has been the leading fine jadeite jewelry brand since its debut in 2003. In 2012, it was honored by the American luxury lifestyle magazine The Robb Report as one of China’s top ten emerging luxury brands. In 2013, a GIA field gemology team visited Zhaoyi Cuiwu, one of the three production lines that operate under Zhaoyi Xintiandi Co. Ltd. This eye-opening experience allowed the authors and Western jewelry industry experts to re-envision the traditional Chinese gold-jade culture as an inexhaustible source of luxury innovations.

	Zhaoyi Cuiwu jewelry

	Sales professionals describe high-end jadeite jewelry made by Zhaoyi Cuiwu.

	Brand Profile
The brand name “Zhaoyi” originated from the ancient Chinese Palace of the Han Dynasty (206 BC to 9 AD). It was one of the high official titles assigned by the emperors to women who served in the palace. In Chinese, “Zhao” means “illuminating” or “being bright,” while “Yi” means “etiquette.” These concepts are also the core of the Chinese gold-jade culture.

Zhaoyi Xintiandi Jewelry Co., Ltd. was formed in Beijing in 2003. From day one, this company has established its image as the leader of Chinese high-end jewelry trends and the inheritor of traditional Chinese jewelry manufacturing craftsmanship. The company integrates jadeite rough purchasing, jewelry design, haute couture design, jewelry manufacturing, jewelry retailing, and brand promotion.

In 2004, Zhaoyi opened its first retail store in Beijing. In 2007, Zhaoyi opened its first flagship store in the Beijing Kunlun Hotel. In that same year, movie star Wenli Jiang walked the red carpet of the international film festival in Rome wearing a Zhaoyi suite consisting of a colorless transparent jadeite necklace and ring. For the first time, fine jadeite jewelry designed and made by Zhaoyi stood out on an international stage.

The store visited by the GIA team in the Grand Hyatt Beijing opened in September 2008. Well-known film stars attended the opening ceremony. In 2012, a new Zhaoyi Cuiwu store image was unveiled at the Shanghai Top Marques private luxury exhibition. International movie star Kar-ling Lau modeled top-quality jadeite jewelry at the show. Since the company’s formation, Zhaoyi has collaborated with many movie stars, and many of them became collectors of Zhaoyi’s fine jadeite jewelry.

Movie star Pace Wu wore Zhaoyi’s imperial jadeite jewelry suite. As a well-known fashion icon, Wu demonstrated to the public, especially the young generation, that green jadeite can be very fashionable. Photo courtesy Zhaoyi Xintiandi Co. Ltd.
Great leadership and industry expertise are always important to the development and prosperity of a business. Zhaoyi’s president and CEO, Ms. Yunhe Wang, has very sharp insights and a clear sense of her company's direction. She selected filigree inlay designer Master Yingyi Bai and Canadian-Chinese jewelry designer Grace Lee as the chief designers. This turned out to be one of the most successful moves in Zhaoyi’s history.

Ms. Yunhe Wang, President and CEO of Zhaoyi Xintiandi Co. Ltd., treasures the industry experts she has recruited for Zhaoyi. From left to right: Chief filigree inlay designer Master Jingyi Bai, Yunhe Wang, and famous movie star Kai-ling Lau. Photo courtesy Zhaoyi Xintiandi Co. Ltd.
Currently, Zhaoyi has a total of 13 boutique stores in nine cities. While not a large number, every store is like an art gallery. The Beijing store even houses a private filigree museum. Aside from major cities in mainland China, Zhaoyi also has locations in Hong Kong and is planning to open franchised shops in Paris, New York, and other metropolitan areas all over the world. Their goal is to bring the Chinese gold-jade culture to the international market.

	Creative Jewelry Design
Targeting the high-end jadeite jewelry market in China, Zhaoyi creates jadeite masterpieces with particular appeal to art collectors. In order to successfully inherit and carry on the gold-jade culture and its thousands of years of history, designers apply groundbreaking Western design concepts to jadeite jewelry. These creative designs attract the attention of the younger generation and the Western world.

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	Creative Designs
Colorless transparent jadeite jewelry is one of Zhaoyi’s special products. Previously, colorless jadeite was not favored by jadeite professionals in China. However, it can actually display outstanding transparency and extremely fine texture. Industry experts in Zhaoyi sensed the potential of this material and created the classic transparent colorless jadeite cabochon. Now, transparent jadeite cabochons more or less symbolize the Zhaoyi Cuiwu brand. This is significant, especially because of the shortage of high-quality green jadeite rough. At the same time, for balance, designers bravely use diamonds and colored stones as accents for these cabochons. This has never before been popular in China’s history.

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	The Beauty of Colorless Transparent Jadeite
Besides colorless transparent jadeite and the traditionally popular imperial jadeite, jadeite in other colors is also beautifully designed and manufactured by Zhaoyi.

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	More than Green

	Company Treasures
When a great designer works with extremely rare top-quality material, masterpieces are expected. Zhaoyi claims both elements as company treasures.

Grace Lee, the chief designer of Zhaoyi Cuiwu, was once a broadcaster. Her design innovations resulted in jewelry pieces featuring colorless transparent jadeite. Photo courtesy Zhaoyi Xintiandi Co. Ltd.
Grace Lee, a Canadian originally from Hong Kong, is the chief designer of Zhaoyi Cuiwu. Once a broadcaster at ATV World in Hong Kong, Grace stepped into the gem and jewelry industry with a jewelry design degree from Hong Kong Baptist University and a GIA Graduate Gemologist diploma. Since she became a jewelry designer, her works have become very popular in auction houses such as Sotheby’s and Christie’s. As Zhaoyi’s chief designer, two of her product lines, “Jade for You” and “Jade That She Wants,” are very well favored by clients. Both have been extended into high-end custom jewelry lines.

“Jade that She Wants” is one of two Zhaoyi high-end custom jewelry lines designed by Grace Lee. These jewelry pieces feature large, top-quality, colorless transparent jadeite cabochons and complementary colored stones. Photo courtesy Zhaoyi Xintiandi Co. Ltd.
One of Grace’s jadeite masterpieces is also the company’s symbol. It’s called “The star of Zhaoyi.” It was released in 2012 and won the Robb Report's Best Chinese Selected Jewelry Award. The center stone of the The star of Zhaoyi is a top-quality lavender jadeite cabochon that weighs 9,499 carats. The cabochon is mounted in precious metal with numerous diamonds and colored stones. The piece resembles a blossoming peony, which is considered the national flower of China. Ten matched rings were made to surround the larger piece. Each ring has a top-quality colorless transparent jadeite as the center stone. All ten rings have the same design as the star of Zhaoyi.

The star of Zhaoyi is the company’s symbol. This piece features a center stone that weighs 9499 carats. Top-quality lavender jadeite of this size is extremely rare. Ten matching rings were also made. The suite looks like a blossoming peony surrounded by ten small flowers. Photo courtesy Zhaoyi Xintiandi Co. Ltd.

	Contribution to the Jade Industry
In addition to promoting and managing the brand, Zhaoyi also played an important role in the formation of the National Jadeite Grading Standard. Because Zhaoyi has access to a huge amount of jadeite of different qualities, it became the sponsor of the research into the grading system. Zhaoyi provided standard samples, and some experts from the company even participated in the research. In December, 2012, the Chinese Standardization Administration officially approved the “transparent jadeite (colorless) classification” standard. This standard was in practice at the end of 2013. Source: GIA @topic:12


Title: Spring 2001 G&G Book Reviews Abstract: “Jeweled Bugs and Butterflies”
By Marilyn Nissenson and Susan Jonas, 120 pp., illus., publ. by Harry N. Abrams, New York, 2000. US$29.95

“Paulding Farnham: Tiffany’s Lost Genius”
By John Loring, 151 pp., illus., publ. by Harry N. Abrams, New York, 2000. US$49.50

“The Crown Jewels: The History of the Coronation Regalia in the Jewel House of the Tower of London”
By C. Blair, A. Grimwade, R. R. Harding, E. A. Jobbins, D. King, R. W. Lightbown, and K. Scarratt. Volume I: The History, 812 pp.; Volume II: The Catalogue, 630 pp. Illus., publ. by The Stationery Office, London, 1998. US$1,650

“Colored Stones of Yakutia and Places of Their Origin”
By V. G. Gadiatov and V. K. Marshinsev, 328 pp., illus., publ. by Yekaterinburg Bank of Cultural Information, Yekaterinburg, Russia, 2000, 150 rubles (about US$5.25) [in Russian]

“Gemmologia Europa VII—European Gemmologists on the Emerald”
Edited by Margherita Superchi, 221 pp., illus., publ. by CISGEM, Milan, Italy, 2000, 35,000 lira (about US$16.00) [in Italian and English]

“Mughals, Maharajas and the Mahatma”
By  K. R. N. Swamy, 265 pp., illus., publ. by Harper Collins Publishers India, New Delhi, 1997, US$18.95

To view the full section, download the PDF above. Source: GIA @topic:6


Title: Pink to Pinkish Orange Malaya Garnets from Bekily, Madagascar Abstract: Malaya garnets from Bekily, Madagascar, are predominantly pink to pinkish orange, with some stones orange to red. Discovered only in the late 1990s, the majority are intermediate members of the pyrope-spessartine series with variable contents of almandine and subordinate grossular. The refractive index, specific gravity, and color of these garnets are related to their iron and manganese contents. Inclusions identified by Raman analysis are rutile needles and platelets, graphite, quartz, apatite, zircon, and sillimanite. Negative crystals were also seen. Important differences in predominant color and chemistry were noted when the Bekily garnets, only the second commercial source of malaya garnet, were compared to malaya garnets from East Africa, which have been available since the late 1970s. Source: GIA @topic:2


Title: Emeralds from the Ural Mountains, USSR Abstract: Emeralds are again being mined in the historic district of the Ural Mountains. Physical, chemical, spectroscopic, and microscopic characteristics of stones from the recent production are presented and compared with data on older samples as well as those reported in the literature. Chemical analysis and visible and infrared spectroscopy provide information on crystal chemistry and color-causing trace elements that is useful both to characterize these stones and to separate them from their synthetic counterparts. A variety of mineral inclusions as well as liquid, two-phase, and three-phase inclusions were seen with magnification. All of the data are critically evaluated with respect to the confirmation of unknown samples as Uralian. Source: GIA @topic:3


Title: The Distinction of Natural from Synthetic Alexandrite by Infrared Spectroscopy Abstract: Infrared spectroscopy provides a means to distinguish natural from synthetic alexandrites in the range 2000-4200 cm -1, as determined by a study of spectra obtained from 15 natural and 28 synthetic alexandrites from a variety of sources. The technique is nondestructive and, with Fourier transform instrumentation, extremely rapid. It is especially useful for identifying stones that contain no distinguishing inclusions. Source: GIA @topic:3


Title: The Cutting Properties of Kunzite Abstract: In the process of cutting kunzite, a lapidary comes face-to-face with problem properties that sometimes remain hidden from the jeweler. By way of examining these problems, we present the example of a one-kilo kunzite crystal being cut. The cutting problems shown give ample warning to the jeweler to take care in working with kunzite and demonstrate the necessity of cautioning customers to avoid shocking the stone when they wear it in jewelry. Source: GIA @topic:1


Title: The Chromium Content of Lechleitner Synthetic Emerald Overgrowth Abstract: The refractive indices of the synthetic overgrowth on the beryl seeds of Lechleitner synthetic emeralds show a linear correlation with the chromium content of the coating. In a sample with refractive indices of no=1.580, ne=1.572a, Cr203, content of 3.99% was found; a stone with no=1.610, ne=1.601 contained 10.01 % Cr2O3. Very broad, faint shadow edges on the refractometer in one sample were caused by an inhomogeneous distribution of Cr2O3,--between 7.64% and 13.20%--in the synthetic emerald overgrowth. From these experiments, it is evident that the higher the chromium content in the overgrowth, the darker the coating (and, therefore, the overall appearance of the stone) will be. Source: GIA @topic:3


Title: The Royal Ruby Abstract: Ruby specimen gift of William F. Larson.  Cut rubies courtesy of Edward Boehm.

                      Ancient Indians called it “the king of precious stones.” Burmese warriors thought it made them invulnerable in battle. Medieval Europeans believed it cured hemorrhages and inflammatory diseases.

	The ruby has been prized since ancient times. And we still cherish it today.
	Rubies have remained popular for millennia because they are beautiful stones that evoke love, romance, and power. Here’s vivid proof of our fondness for them: rubies can still command the highest per-carat price of all colored stones.

		Nina Switzer-Spano, instructor of gemology at GIA, Carlsbad

Ruby belongs to a species of gemstones called corundum. The presence of the element chromium causes the naturally colorless corundum to turn red.

Myanmar’s Mogok Valley and Mong Hsu are important sources for high-quality rubies. Rubies are also mined in Madagascar, Cambodia, Sri Lanka, Vietnam, and other countries.

Color is one of the most important factors in determining a ruby’s value. Rubies range from an orangy red to a purplish red. Historically, the name “pigeon’s blood” has been used to describe vivid red rubies; however it is best to avoid using this trade term as it can be misinterpreted.

	Gift of Inta Gems.

Almost all rubies are heat-treated to improve their color. For example, rubies lose their brownish color; rubies mined in Sri Lanka become a more intense red when heat-treated; and rubies from Mong Hsu, Myanmar lose their dark color-zoned centers.

Rubies that are not treated command far higher prices than their enhanced counterparts. Assume a ruby is heat-treated unless an identification report says otherwise. Glass filling is another common and much less durable treatment.

Also be aware that synthetic rubies are popular in the marketplace. Manufactured since the late 1880s, synthetic rubies offer consumers a more affordable option than natural ones. Their place in the display case is perfectly legitimate. If a treatment or a country of origin is known, it must be disclosed. Disclosure is essential to building customer confidence and trust.

Tips on Rubies

		Rubies are rich in lore and romance. Be sure to share this with consumers.

		If all factors are equal, rubies mined in Burma are usually more desirable than rubies from other places. You may want to submit a ruby to GIA to identify if it’s natural or synthetic, or treated or untreated. Additional testing is available to determine country of origin. A GIA report with this information can let you purchase and/or sell these gems with confidence.

		Rubies are extremely hard and durable. Let customers know that they can wear them every day, but should make sure that the ruby does not rub against other gemstones, as they can damage softer ones like emerald and topaz.

To learn more about rubies, visit the GIA Gem Encyclopedia Ruby Page Source: GIA @topic:1


Title: “Atypical Beads”: Variations of Two Types of Nuclei Abstract: Figure 1. Four loose atypical bead cultured pearls weighing 3.30 to 8.53 ct. Pearls 1–4 are shown from left to right. Photo by Gaurav Bera.
Atypical bead cultured pearls (aBCP) are occasionally encountered during laboratory testing. The nuclei used can take the form of various undrilled, partially drilled, or even drilled materials including natural pearls (abalone, scallop, turban species, Pteria species, and Pinna species), freshwater non-bead cultured pearls, coral, plastic, small shells, faceted sapphire beads of various colors, glass, quartz, and agate (“Atypical ‘beading’ in the production of cultured pearls from Australian Pinctada maxima,” GIA Research News, February 13, 2017). Four aBCPs (figure 1) were recently discovered in a group of 50 loose pearls submitted to GIA’s Mumbai laboratory.
Externally, the four white to light cream-colored aBCPs looked similar to the other pearls submitted in the lot. When viewed under 40× magnification, their surfaces exhibited a typical nacreous surface of overlapping aragonite platelets. Energy-dispersive X-ray fluorescence spectrometry on all four revealed manganese levels between 13.30 ppm and 45.60 ppm and strontium levels between 1064 ppm and 1822 ppm, characteristic of a saltwater environment. Interestingly, optical X-ray fluorescence (XRF) of pearl 1 revealed a strong yellowish green reaction, while pearls 2, 3, and 4 were inert. The ultraviolet/visible reflectance spectra collected on the four pearls showed weak absorption features at around 320–420 nm. Raman analysis using 514 nm laser excitation showed the expected doublet at 702/705 cm–1 and peak at 1085 cm–1, indicative of aragonite.

Figure 2. Surface appearance and internal structures of the four atypical bead cultured pearls. Photomicrographs by Nishka Vaz; fields of view 2 mm, 0.6 mm, 2.86 mm, and 16.3 mm.

Figure 3. Left: Pearl 1 revealed a strong yellowish green reaction under optical X-ray fluorescence. Right: Undulating shell banding visible within the sample’s shell bead nucleus using transmitted light. Photomicrograph by Nishka Vaz; field of view 6.75 mm.
Real-time microradiography (RTX) and X-ray computed microtomography (μ-CT) analysis revealed a variety of internal structures that required interpretation. RTX imaging of pearl 1 showed a thin irregular demarcation close to the surface which was not continuous. On viewing the μ-CT, the demarcation was more discernible and followed the irregular outline of the pearl (figure 2, row 1). An irregularly shaped freshwater shell bead was clearly used as the nucleus, hence the strong yellowish green reaction observed in the optical X-ray fluorescence unit (figure 3, left). Under transmitted light, banding within the bead nucleus was also observed (figure 3, right); externally, the pearl had notable indentations on its surface.
Pearl 2 hosted the most interesting nucleus of the four. A rectangular “tissue-box” shaped bead, likely a piece of cut saltwater shell given the almost identical radio-opacity to that of its host, was evident in the RTX and μ-CT images (figure 2, row 2) (Fall 2022 Gem News International, pp. 378–380). Externally, the pearl was smooth, lustrous, and free of any surface blemishes.
The RTX and μ-CT images of pearl 3 revealed an obvious demarcation with a linear structure at the center of the nucleus and a small “organic tail-like feature” at one end within the boundary separating the bead from the overgrown cultured nacre (figure 2, row 3). All features were consistent with a saltwater non-bead cultured pearl being used as the bead nuclei. The lack of growth arcs around the demarcation was possibly due to rapid nacre deposition during the culturing process (“Atypical ‘beading’ in the production of cultured pearls from Australian Pinctada maxima,” GIA Research News, February 13, 2017). This pearl exhibited distinct surface scratches that were visible without magnification.
Pearl 4 also showed a strong demarcation feature on the RTX and μ-CT images. However, the central area differed from the other three pearls, as it showed a void-like feature in the middle (figure 2, row 4). The bead nucleus used in the process was most likely a saltwater non-bead cultured pearl based on the fact that the pearl was inert to XRF, in keeping with pearl 3, despite the relatively thin nacre layers that would allow a freshwater bead to react. The pearl was also unusual because it possessed three nearly flat “bases” with concave features at the center of each. This raised questions about its identity even before X-ray examination, since the authors have rarely observed natural pearls with such features.
This is not the first time GIA has encountered aBCPs, but to receive four with variations on two types of nuclei—atypical shell (not typical round shell beads) and non-bead cultured pearls—in one lot was very interesting. This proves that such pearls are still circulating in the market and are being mixed with natural goods in an attempt at deception (Fall 2011 Lab Notes, pp. 229–230). Given the spectral data collected (S. Karampelas, “Spectral characteristics of natural-color saltwater cultured pearls from Pinctada maxima,” Fall 2012 G&G, pp. 193–197) and the pearls’ internal structures and external appearance (A. Homkrajae et al., “Internal structures of known Pinctada maxima pearls: Cultured pearls from operated marine mollusks,” Fall 2021 G&G, pp. 186–205), it is apparent that all four of them formed within Pinctada species mollusks, most likely Pinctada maxima. Atypical bead cultured pearls have always been an interesting and sometimes challenging subject. With modern equipment and practical pearl testing experience, laboratories such as GIA aim to remain one step ahead of the possible experiments used by cultivators. Source: GIA @topic:5


Title: Spring 1986 G&G Book Reviews Abstract: “Cartier: Jewelers Extraordinary”
By Hans Nadelhoffer, 312 pp., illus., publ. by Harry N. Abrams, New York, NY, 1984. US$50.00

“The Great American Sapphire”
By Stephen M. Voynick, 212 pp., illus., publ. by Mountain Press Publishing Co., Missoula, MT, 1985. US$16.95 cloth, $9.95 paper

“Pearls: Their Origin, Treatment, and Identification”
By Jean Taburiaux, 247 pp., illus., publ. by Chilton Publishing Co., Radnor, PA, 1985. US$24.95

“Larousse Des Pierres Precieuses”
By Pierre Bariand and Jean-Paul Poirot, 264 pp., illus., publ. by Librairie Larousse, Paris, France.
US$45.95

“The Tourmaline Group”
By R. V. Dietrich, 300 pp., illus., publ. by Van Nostrand Reinhold, New York, NY, 1985. US$29.95

To view the full section, download the PDF above. Source: GIA @topic:6


Title: Winter 2009 G&G Book Reviews Abstract: “Emeralds: A Passionate Guide: The Emeralds, the People, Their Secrets”
By Ronald Ringsrud, 382 pp., illus., Green View Press [www.emeraldpassion.com], Oxnard, CA, 2009. $80.00

“The French Blue”
By Richard W. Wise, 489 pp., illus., publ. by Brunswick House Press [www.thefrenchblue.com], Lenox, MA. $29.95

“The Pearl Oyster”
Edited by Paul C. Southgate and John C. Lucas, 582 pp., illus., publ. by Elsevier [www.elsevier.com], Amsterdam, The Netherlands, 2008. 91.95 (US$111.00)

“Collector’s Guide to Fluorite”
By Arvid Eric Pasto, 96 pp., illus., publ. by Schiffer Publishing [www.schifferbooks.com], Atglen, PA, 2009. $19.99

“The Bohemian Crown Jewels”
By Andrej Sumbera, transl. by Zuzana Jurgens, 114 pp., illus., publ. by the author
[www.korunovacni-klenoty.cz], 2008, $20.00

To view the full section, download the PDF above. Source: GIA @topic:10