Title: Alumni Association Japan President’s Goal: Creating Connections for Graduates Abstract: Dr. Ken Fujita, GIA GG, who counts Paraíba tourmaline and ruby among his favorite colored stones, urges GIA students to take advantage of the “thousands of stones to identify and practice with” in Graduate Gemologist classes. Photo courtesy of Ken Fujita

Most newly appointed executives – especially those who have just taken the reins of their family’s fourth-generation company – expect leadership challenges on every front, from marketing and sales to operations and logistics.
For Dr. Ken Fujita, GIA GG, the early days of his tenure as president and CEO of his family’s Tokyo-based jewelry wholesaling company, Fujita Co., Ltd., were marked by a different sort of leadership trial: the aftermath of the largest earthquake in Japan’s history.
Fujita was leading a late-afternoon corporate meeting with a partner department store in Tokyo on March 11, 2011 when the shaking started.
“I’ve been through thousands of earthquakes in my life, but the size of this shake was unusual,” Fujita says.
He stopped the meeting and led attendees out to the department store retail area, where mannequins were falling, and customers and retail associates were dropping to the ground and crying. Fujita helped people evacuate to the exit floor; he could not return to his home for the next 24 hours.
Transportation was down across the city after the magnitude 9.1 Tōhoku quake, and the tsunami and nuclear disaster that followed only increased the challenges that Japan would face. But Fujita, who was appointed to his position just after the quake, was determined to lead – and guide his employees through the difficult days, weeks and months ahead.
“We worked harder and harder,” he says. “We had to work beyond the crisis, and think beyond the disaster.” Fujita Co., Ltd., which wholesales with department stores – providing colored stones, jewelry and even sales associates – weathered the crisis, maintaining a healthy business through tumultuous times.
Fujita’s sense of responsibility and leadership likely comes from the fact that Fujita Co., Ltd. was entrusted to him by his father, Sadaharu Fujita, whose own grandfather founded the family business in 1920 as a silver ornament and tableware company.
After World War II, Sadaharu Fujita’s father, Teiichi, expanded the company to jewelry wholesale, and when he took over, he began to import colored stones.
Sadaharu Fujita – who also served as president of the International Colored Stone Association from 1991-1995, instituting the NET system of treatment and enhancement identification – planned to pass the business to his son, Ken, with one qualification: he had to attend GIA to earn his Graduate Gemologist diploma and polish his English skills.

Dr. Ken Fujita, lower right, still has the first-place medal he and his classmates won at a campus-wide volleyball tournament at GIA’s Carlsbad campus in 2002. Fujita, who serves as president of the GIA Alumni Association Japan, says that the friendships he made during his time as a student are one of the highlights of his GIA experience.
Ken Fujita, who already had a PhD in organic chemistry from Tokyo University of Science, moved to Carlsbad and earned his GG in 2002, which he followed up with jewelry design and business classes. He found that learning about such a large variety of gemstones in just six months was both helpful and efficient.
“It was a great opportunity to train my identification skills,” Fujita says. “There are thousands of stones to identify and practice with. In the real world of business, you can’t make mistakes – but the courses offer you the opportunity to make those mistakes and learn from them.”
But for Fujita, the best parts of his GIA experience were the friendships and connections that began there, and continue today.
“Those relationships are so important and meaningful,” he says.
Fujita was appointed as president of the GIA Alumni Association’s Japan chapters in 2010 after his mentor, Yoshiko Doi, suggested it. He is committed to helping foster relationships and networking opportunities between other GIA graduates across Japan.

GIA President Susan Jacques, left, joined Dr. Ken Fujita, GG, at the GIA Alumni Association Japan’s 25th anniversary celebration. Fujita says he wants to make the eight Japanese alumni chapters “a very comfortable place for alumni” where they can foster personal and professional connections. Photo courtesy of Ken Fujita
“After GIA graduation, we can help them make those connections,” he says. “I want to make our chapters in Japan a very comfortable place for alumni. The GIA Alumni Association is a place where graduates can connect with a new supplier or client, make a new friend, or educate themselves with new and ongoing developments in the trade.”
Fujita says those interested in entering the gem and jewelry industry should pursue a GIA education, regardless of whether they have an established family history.  “The designation of GG is a very important ‘passport’ in our industry to identifying a respected, trustworthy professional,” he says.
He also offered some advice on how to stay ahead to those already in the business: “Deal with only beautiful pieces … and I don’t mean only expensive items,” he says. “I think beauty is the key to survive in the industry.” Source: GIA @topic:10


Title: A Survey of the Gemstone Resources of China Abstract: The People's Republic of China has recently placed a high priority on identifying and developing its gemstone resources. Initial exploration by teams of geologists throughout China has identified many deposits with significant potential, including amber, cinnabar, garnets, blue sapphires, and diamonds. Small amounts of ruby have also been found. Major deposits of nephrite jade as well as large numbers of gem-bearing pegmatite dikes have been identified. Significant deposits of peridot are currently being exploited from Hebei Province. Lastly, turquoise rivaling the finest Persian material has been found in large quantities in Hubei and Shaanxi Provinces. Source: GIA @topic:1


Title: Jewelers Seek to Overcome Weak Numbers in 2016 Holiday Season Abstract: The 8.01 ct Fancy Vivid blue Sky Blue diamond sold for $17 million at Sotheby’s Geneva sale Nov. 16. It is set in a ring  surrounded by brilliant cut and baguette cut colorless diamonds. Photo courtesy of Sotheby’s

	Year-end forecasts remain mixed as large jewelry operations, including Blue Nile, reported tepid sales numbers as the holiday season began. Economic indicators, however, continue to point to a strengthening U.S. economy, and store/cyber traffic has been encouraging during the early weeks of the season.

	The latest quarterly financials from Signet (Kay, Zale, Jared) and Blue Nile show sales declines of 2% and 4.3%, respectively, while Tiffany & Co. eked out a 1% sales increase after posting declines in the two earlier quarters. Hearts on Fire, the diamond brand owned by Hong Kong retailer Chow Tai Fook, saw a 9% decline worldwide in the fall quarter. And Chow Tai Fook’s Hong Kong and China sales fell 23.5% in the last quarter.

	Balanced against this, however, are optimistic reports from higher-end independents. A Centurion Magazine survey reported that 60% of luxury jewelers reported sales gains through Black Friday and Cyber Monday, with 28% reporting increases over 10%. Some 25% reported sales declines of 5% or less. In addition, a survey by the “The Street,” a stock market news site, found a 7.1% uptick in combined store and online holiday sales.

	Beyond the holiday season, a report from ABN Amro, the leading diamond industry lender, sees the U.S. economy improving (and a slight upturn in China) through next year, bringing with it an increase in diamond demand that will reverse the slow but steady erosion of polished prices that has occurred over the past 18 months. A Bain & Company report cautioned, however, that diamond producers have been selling more rough than demand can absorb, leading to a potential supply glut next year.

The 9.14 ct GIA-graded Fancy Vivid pink diamond drew a final price of $18.2 million at Christie’s Nov. 15 Geneva sale in which 35 lots exceeded $1 million. Photo courtesy of Christie’s

	AUCTIONS

	After a slow start, and several important diamonds and gemstones not selling, the fall auction season was successful with a number of multi-million-dollar fancy color diamonds changing hands.

	At Christie’s Nov. 29 Hong Kong sale, a GIA-graded 4.29 ct Fancy Vivid blue diamond sold for $11.8 million ($2.7 million per carat), while the 10.7 ct “Ratnaraj” ruby sold for $10.2 million. At Sotheby’s Geneva sale, which totaled more than $136 million, the 8.01 ct “Sky Blue” diamond, graded Fancy Vivid blue by GIA, drew a winning price of just over $17 million ($2.1 million per carat). A 7.74 ct Fancy Deep blue diamond also went for $3.7 million ($1.7 million per carat).

	Christie's Nov. 15 Geneva auction saw 35 lots exceed $1 million, including a 9.14 ct Fancy Vivid pink pear shape that  sold for $18.2 million ($2 million per carat), and a GIA-graded pair of pear shaped D Flawless diamonds weighing 52.55 carats and 50.47 carats that sold for $17.6 million.

	TRADE

	The abrupt action by Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi to ban cash transactions with 500 and 1000 rupee notes ($7.35 and $14.70) by Dec. 30 has caused chaos in the country’s retail and wholesale markets because these notes comprise 86% of the cash in circulation by value. The move forced cancellation of several end-of-year gem and jewelry trade fairs. The largest affected show is the Dec. 23-26 Jaipur Jewellery Show, which was postponed to an unstated date next year. Gemfields, the colored stone miner, also cancelled its Jaipur auction of emerald and beryl, which was scheduled for the same time.

	Those holding these bills have to deposit them in their bank accounts by Dec. 30 with strict limits on bank withdrawals. The government’s Ministry of Finance also tightened reporting requirements for cash transactions over $3,000.

	The ministry said the prime minister took the action to crack down on “unaccounted wealth and to curb financing of terrorism and other subversive activity.” While the ban will have little effect on India’s export-oriented diamond trade, retail sales in the country remain largely a cash business and economists predict the action could reduce growth by as much as 1%. Source: GIA @topic:8


Title: Lapis Lazuli History and Lore Abstract: For centuries, Afghanistan has been an important source for top-quality lapis.

                      Historians believe the link between humans and lapis lazuli stretches back more than 6,500 years. The gem was treasured by the ancient civilizations of Mesopotamia, Egypt, China, Greece, and Rome. They valued it for its vivid, exquisite color, and prized it as much as they prized other blue gems like sapphire and turquoise.

Badakshan, a province in present-day Afghanistan, is a forbidding wasteland of mountains, bare of any vegetation. The sheer mountain faces rise as high as 17,000 feet, and are scored with treacherous ravines. Humans make their way there to seek one thing only: the azure treasure that is fine lapis lazuli.

	The miners’ supplies have to be brought into the desolate area by mule train. - Gary
	Bowersox
The same was true as far back as 700 BC, when the region was part of a country known as Bactria. The lapis mines that were producing then are still producing today. They are, in fact, the world’s oldest known commercial gemstone sources.

	The ancient mines of Bactria—now Afghanistan—are still producing lapis today. This
	fine-color specimen was named "The Owl" because of its distinctive shape. It weighs
	about 2 lbs. (1 kg).- Robert Weldon, courtesy M. Chung
Merchant caravans transported their precious blue cargo across Bactria, on their way to the great cities of the ancient Greeks, Indians, Egyptians, Mesopotamians, and Persians. Marco Polo referred to the area’s lapis mines in 1271, but few outsiders have seen them because of their inhospitable location.

For thousands of years, lapis has been fashioned to show off its rich, dark color. Typically, lapis used in jewelry has been cut into cabochons, beads, inlays, and tablets. But lapis lazuli’s use has never been limited to jewelry alone. It’s also a popular carving material. Throughout its history, lapis has been fashioned into practical objects, including game boards, bowls, dagger handles, hair combs, and amulets.

	This lapis cabochon features the ancient symbol of a scarab beetle carved into its surface. - Maha Tannous

	Inlay, a typical lapis cutting style, is featured in this man’s ring. The gold mounting complements the pyrite flecks in the inlay. - Mike Havstad

	Throughout history, lapis has been fashioned into ornamental objects. This elaborate
	carving takes advantage of the striking contrast between light-colored calcite and the
	deep blue of lapis.
Today, lapis is frequently fashioned into freeform and nature-themed sculptures. Some of these carvings become wearable art, others are purely decorative.

	This striking tiger brooch is a creation of Cartier, New York, the famed design house. Its dramatic appearance features yellow diamonds, black onyx, lapis lazuli, and platinum. - GIA and Harold & Erica Van Pelt, courtesy Ishaia Trading Corp., New York.

	This delicate carving is part of the 21-piece “Symphony in Gemstones” collection. - Robert Weldon, gift of Art Sexauer Source: GIA @topic:1


Title: Client Encounters Teach Valuable Retail Lessons Abstract: Students at GIA’s campus in Carlsbad gather around Larry French, left, as he shows them the “Gran Dama,” a brooch designed by Gianmaria Buccellati. The brooch features white, blue, yellow and pink diamonds, and a 98.67 carat Melo pearl – believed to be the eighth-largest in the world – from Vietnam.  Only about 80 Melo pearls are known worldwide. Photo by Eric Welch, © GIA

	Success in the jewelry industry often requires drive and determination.

	That’s why when Larry French was turned down from a job at Van Cleef and Arpels in Los Angeles, he applied again.

	And again. And again.

	It took a total of eight attempts before owner Claude Arpels offered him a position.

	That determination is what took French from driving a tractor in a cornfield in Indiana to selling jewelry to celebrities and dignitaries around the world. The industry veteran spent 23 years at Van Cleef and Arpels before taking a position as store director at Buccellati Beverly Hills in the early 1990s.

	French shared anecdotes from his career with students at GIA’s Carlsbad campus on Nov. 6, 2013. Beyond accounts of famed actresses and rock stars, he imparted the advice for success he’s learned from his many years in the industry.

	He still vividly remembers the first piece of jewelry he sold, although not for its grandeur.

	“It was a crystal bead necklace for $1.99,” French said of his first sale in the costume jewelry department of a large store. He said he persuaded the customer to also buy the matching earrings for a dollar.

	French’s interest in gems began long before his stint in the costume jewelry department. “When I was a kid, I would read through National Geographic magazines and was fascinated with articles about golden idols with emerald eyes or stories about a new ruby mine,” he said. “The reason I got in this business was a real love of exotic stones and the history and stories behind them – which I find as fascinating as the stones themselves.”

	French said he entered an essay contest organized by the American Gem Society (AGS) in the mid-1960s. He doesn’t remember what he wrote in his essay application, but said it was interesting enough for the judges to award him a GIA scholarship. He said the courses further sparked his passion for gem stones and his determination to pursue the job at Van Cleef and Arpels.

	French said he has had the opportunity to see and sell many remarkable gems throughout his career. He described some of the most notable pieces and clients, including an invisible-set diamond and sapphire ring for musician Elton John and a trip from New York to California with Napoleon Bonaparte’s crown in a duffle bag.

	One account, in particular, left the audience in awe.

	Actress Elizabeth Taylor routinely had her gems and jewelry cleaned at his Van Cleef and Arpels store, so it came as no surprise when her assistant dropped off “La Peregrina,” a 50 carat natural pearl, for cleaning. But after the assistant left, French’s associate noticed scratches.

	“There were deep scratches,” he said. “This was bad. I knew how famous the pearl was. There was no way I could prove the pearl wasn’t flawless when it was brought in.”

	He said he paced the store in a state of panic for an hour before he called Taylor’s assistant to try to explain the situation. The assistant only laughed and told French he knew the pearl was scratched – they were bite marks from Taylor’s dog.

	Naturally, French offered this advice to students: always give a condition report.

	He also described what he considers to be the most valuable piece of jewelry he’s ever seen – a garnet and pearl ring a young woman brought into the Buccellati store to be repaired. The ring had belonged to her mother, grandmother and great-grandmother and she was heartbroken that it was in such poor condition because she wanted to wear it for her wedding. The store repaired the family heirloom so the client could continue the tradition.

	“Ever since that day, in spite of the great pieces I’ve sold in my life, I changed what I think creates value,” French said. “Value is not just carat weight … it has to do with the love that people put on jewelry, on what it means to them and their family.”

	He said jewelry is the only business with such sentimental value.

	When asked what advice he has for success, French shared a quote from Peter Carl Faberge: be noble.

	“If you can find a way to be [noble], you’ll certainly go far in your career,” he said. “Companies may go bankrupt … but you’ll be alright. They can't take that from you – no matter what happens.” Source: GIA @topic:11


Title: Topaz Quality Factors Abstract: Blue topaz makes a perfect gem material for artistic carvings. - Lydia Dyer, courtesy of John Dyer & Co.

Color
Red is one of the most sought-after topaz colors and represents less than one-half of 1 percent of facet-grade material found. The color the trade calls imperial topaz is highly prized and very rare. Many dealers insist that a stone must show a reddish pleochroic color to be called imperial topaz. The reddish pleochroic color often appears at the ends of fashioned gems—like pears and ovals—that have an otherwise yellow-to-orange bodycolor.

	Imperial is one of the most highly prized topaz colors, as seen in this spectacular prize-winning, orangy-red, flame-shaped gem. - Gem courtesy of John Dyer & Co.
A fashioned topaz that displays a combination of two colors is called bicolor topaz. Some say that pink topaz, often called rose topaz, resembles a pink diamond or a bright pink sapphire. Pink topaz has certain advantages over these two gems. It’s much less expensive than pink diamond, and it’s often available in larger sizes than either diamond or sapphire.

Dealers often use the trade term “sherry topaz” for yellowish brown or brownish yellow to orange topaz. The term comes from the color of sherry wine. Stones in that color range are also sometimes called precious topaz. This helps distinguish them from less expensive citrine and smoky quartz, both of which look similar to, and are frequently misrepresented as, topaz.

Golden or yellow topaz lacks the prized red overtones of imperial topaz. It’s also much more abundant and therefore less valuable. Although brown topaz is also less valuable, it has been used in striking pieces of jewelry and ornamental art.

In nature, topaz is most commonly colorless, and naturally strong blue gems are extremely rare. In the marketplace, however, strong blue shades are plentiful. Treatments are the reason for this. Treaters use a combination of radiation and heat to produce blue hues in topaz. Since the 1970s, treatments have brought blue topaz to a broad market.

	Irradiation and heat treatment transform colorless topaz to various shades of blue. Starting in the 1970s, treatment created a huge market for inexpensive blue topaz. - © GIA & Tino Hammid
When it was first introduced to the market, treated blue topaz sold for $20 to $40 per carat. But oversupply led to huge drops in wholesale prices, down to a few dollars or less per carat. Today, blue topaz is basically a mass-market gem, and price is often the most important consideration for many buyers. Uniformity of color and cut is also important, especially for mass-market jewelry manufacturers.

	The nature of the starting material and the type of treatment determine the blue that results. These treated topaz stones, weighing from 2.72 carats to 7.86 carats, show a range of hue, tone, and saturation. - Courtesy Chuck Ashbaugh
Clarity
Fashioned topaz gems are often free of visible inclusions or flaws. This especially true of blue, colorless, and yellow topaz.

	This ring, designed by Maria Canale, holds a 12.25-carat untreated topaz from Brazil. The gem has no visible inclusions. - Courtesy Richard Krementz Gemstones
Cut
Because topaz crystals are usually elongated or columnar, they’re often cut as long oval or pear shapes to improve yield. If the rough is strongly colored, the cutter often chooses the emerald cut because that cutting style maximizes color and retains the most weight.

Topaz is cut in a wide variety of shapes and cutting styles. Production includes all the standard gem shapes such as ovals, pears, rounds, cushions, triangles, marquise, and emerald cuts as well as designer-inspired fantasy shapes.

	A modern mixed cutting style dramatically intensifies the color of this 14.68-carat bright blue topaz. - Lydia Dyer, Topaz StarBrite courtesy of John Dyer & Co.
Cutting styles are also well represented. Brilliant cuts with triangular and kite-shaped facets, step cuts with concentric rows of parallel facets, and mixed cuts usually consisting of brilliant-cut crowns and step-cut pavilions are all common. Designer cuts fashioned by hand and machine are popular, too.

	The uniform color of treated blue topaz makes it a highly suitable material for cutting into standard sizes for jewelry.
Because there is an abundant supply of treated blue topaz, it’s often cut into calibrated sizes for use in mass market and multi-stone jewelry.

Carat Weight
Standard topaz cuts for the jewelry industry include a wide range of shapes and sizes. The gem is inexpensive in smaller sizes, but prices rise for gems above 10×8 mm.

	This 61.78-carat carved topaz is a truly unique sculptural piece. Skilled workmanship intensifies the blue color to produce an effect like shimmering droplets of water. Blue topaz makes a perfect material for large carvings due to availability in large sizes. - Lydia Dyer, Blue Topaz Sculptural Gem courtesy of John Dyer & Co. Source: GIA @topic:1


Title: An Examination of Nontransparent “CZ” from Russia Abstract: White, pink, and black nontransparent synthetic "cubic zirconia" is currently being manufactured in Russia and marketed primarily in cabochon and bead form. These unusual materials are potentially useful as substitutes for such gem materials as pearl, dyed black chalcedony ("onyx"), and even black diamond. The authors provide a detailed description of these new products, including the chemistry and probable manufacturing techniques. These products can be readily identified by standard gemological tests. Source: GIA @topic:1


Title: Books: Heavenly Bodies: Cult Treasures and Spectacular Saints from the Catacombs Abstract: By Paul Koudounaris, 192 pp., hardcover, illus., publ. by Thames & Hudson, 2013, $29.95.

              In Heavenly Bodies, Paul Koudounaris has chosen an unusual topic for research: The idea of honoring the early martyrs by adorning them with lavish metalwork and gemstones. One initial impression might be that this work has a religious theme, yet it covers many interesting historical points not tied to religion. Koudounaris’s impartial research on the so-called catacomb saints gives insight into aspects of the schism within the Christian faith in Europe following the Protestant movement.

The book examines the skeletons discovered by chance in Roman catacombs (underground tombs) in the mid-16th century. The Vatican declared the tens of thousands of skeletons found in these vast underground labyrinths to be remains of early Christian martyrs. The location alone was sufficient proof of martyrdom, and no further evidence was sought to declare their authenticity. The Catholic Church was delighted to have a substitute for the holy relics that were largely destroyed during the Protestant Reformation in German-speaking European countries. The skeletons were examined and authenticated in Rome, then dispatched to other Catholic parishes, mainly in Germany and Switzerland.

Upon their arrival, the skeletons were lavishly adorned. Fragile bones would be reinforced by animal glue; missing parts would be replaced by wood or sometimes metal. They would be preserved with wax and meticulously covered with gauze, silk, and gemstones and pearls set in silver. The decorative work took hundreds of hours and was performed by nuns and silversmiths on each skeleton that went on display. Some churches had to wait until they could collect the funds for this costly task. It is interesting that when the church couldn’t afford natural gems, it compromised and used imitation stones, and even these weren’t inexpensive at the time. Many devotees supported the cause by donating jewelry and money. After all, these luxuriously decorated skeletons were a great attraction and a source of income for the church.

By the 19th century, pride in the catacomb saints had faded. The revered relics became an embarrassment due their questionable origin. The Catholic Church itself began to doubt the authenticity and the necessity of these objects. Once considered remains of the saints, the ornately embellished skeletons began quietly disappearing from the public scene. Today, a few churches in Switzerland and Germany still maintain them, but not on public display. Paul Koudounaris was granted access to the few remaining specimens for research, and the book is magnificently illustrated with more than 100 of his photos.

Heavenly Bodies is an illuminating read for jewelry historians and gemologists alike, as it reveals an unusual aspect of jewelry and use of gems. Source: GIA @topic:9


Title: De Beers Holds Line of Prices for Feb. What About April? Abstract: Rough diamond crystals. Courtesy of De Beers.

	Buoyed by encouraging retail signs in the U.S. and Asia, De Beers allocated another large sight in February ‒ an estimated $730 million ‒ but left prices at January levels.

	Premiums on De Beers’ sight boxes rose on the wave of optimism and increased prices at tender sales in January, but De Beers’ executives held the line of prices. They are probably waiting for the results of March’s Hong Kong show to gauge the true state of the market. Diamond dealers hope that rising demand will lift polished prices, which have been stagnant for most of last year. The next sight is the first week of April.

	De Beers is also making the most of these early-year sights because the application process for the next sight term is beginning soon, and one of the criteria for selection will apparently be clients’ purchase history. Some clients deferred a significant percentage of their purchases in the first half of last year, while some potential clients were strong buyers at De Beers’ rough auctions, which comprise about 10% of its sales.

ZALE CORP. SALE: The announcement of the acquisition of Zale Corp by its chief competitor, Signet Group (Kay Jewelers and Jared, The Galleria of Jewelry), caught most in the industry by surprise; not because Zale would be sold ‒ retail analysts were predicting this for several years ‒ but that another major jewelry chain would snap it up.

	Signet has fared well in recent years, holding its own through the worst economy this generation has known, in an increasingly competitive retail arena. Zale, however, has struggled to reposition itself in an environment that has changed drastically in the past decade. The company made some progress in retooling itself during the past two years, which probably made it a more attractive acquisition, especially for a price of $1.4 billion (all figures in U.S. dollars).

	Zale earned $10 million on sales of $1.9 billion in fiscal 2013, but showed losses of $26.9 million on sales of $1.86 billion in 2012 and $112 million on sales of $1.74 billion in 2011.

	The question now is what will happen with a retail chain that is nearly 3,600 stores strong, especially since many of those stores operate in the same shopping malls as the company that bought it. Shifting an operation of Zale’s size to Signet’s vastly different business model will take years, even if it seems likely that a number of the Zale and Gordon’s stores will close.

	Integrating the two companies on such a large scale will have its challenges. Signet never lost sight of the fact that it is a jewelry seller and has combined a strong sales associate training program with a very highly targeted merchandising plan. Additionally, its advertising always stressed the romantic side of the product.  Zale’s incorporated a department store approach with little variation in its product mix between regions or store brands and its advertising tended to be more price-oriented.

DIAMONDS: The  29.62 carat blue diamond mined recently by Petra Diamond Ltd., brought a top bid of $25.5 million ($862,780 per carat), an astounding price for a rough diamond, from Cora International of New York.

	In recent years, top fancy colored diamonds have been fetching record prices at the world’s leading auction houses. Last November, a New York diamond dealer paid $85 million for a GIA-graded 59.6 carat Fancy Vivid pink diamond sold by Sotheby’s at its Geneva auction. This stone nearly doubled the previous record for the highest price ever paid for any gem at auction, the 24.78 carat Fancy Vivid pink diamond that sold for $46 million in 2010. (Update: According to media reports, Sotheby’s cancelled the sale of the Pink Star several months after the auction when the the winning bidder was unable to complete the transaction.) The highest price per-carat ever paid for a blue diamond was $1.8 million for the 5.30 carat Bulgari Blue diamond which GIA graded Fancy Deep blue. It was sold by Bonham’s in London in November of last year.

	The large blue diamond was found in the Cullinan Mine which, since its opening in 1903, has yielded an unparalleled treasure trove of legendary diamonds, starting with the 3,106 carat Cullinan, which was polished into the 530 carat pear-shaped diamond that is the centerpiece of Britain’s crown jewels and eight other significant stones. The mine also yielded the 240.8 carat Taylor-Burton diamond, the 353.9 carat Premier Rose, the 755.5 carat Golden Jubilee and the 599.1 carat Centenary diamond, among others. Last year, a 25.5 carat blue diamond that sold for $17 million, or $663,000 per carat, was found there.

COLORED STONES: The Myanmar military has reportedly moved in to secure the jade mining area around Hpakant, in the southern part of the nation, after a miner discovered a 37-ton jade boulder in mid-February. According to local press reports, the jade rock measured 13 feet high. Local authorities reportedly halted all informal mining in the region until the boulder could be relocated to a secure facility. Source: GIA @topic:8


Title: Hurricanes Harvey, Irma May Wreak Havoc on Luxury Sales, Too Abstract: The impact of Hurricanes Harvey and Irma are likely to be felt during this year’s holiday jewelry sales. Above, an Aug. 28 aerial view shows the damage caused by Hurricane Harvey in Rockport, Texas, located on the coast, southwest of Houston. Photo by AMFPhotography/Shutterstock.com

De Beers announced that it will spend $140 million on diamond advertising this year. Some of these funds will go toward the Diamond Producers Association generic diamond jewelry advertising, but the majority will go to its ForeverMark brand.

Advertising may not help lift U.S. demand this coming fall season because of the devastating damage of Hurricane Harvey in eastern Texas and Hurricane Irma in Florida, particularly in the affluent western coast areas. The damage and disruption of both hurricanes will likely take a toll on luxury sales.

Texas, particularly the Houston area, has always been a center for luxury sales, including larger diamonds and significant jewelry pieces. Many of the jewelers serving that area escaped the worst of the flooding from Harvey, but a significant portion of their clientele will likely face huge rebuilding and repair costs.

Although Hurricane Irma spared the Miami area the worst of its effects, wind damage was still immense and many communities were totally destroyed throughout the state. Obviously, there will not be a full damage assessment of either Texas or Florida for months, but it’s certain these two hurricanes will be the most extensive and expensive disasters ever to hit the U.S.

While the storms may initially impact jewelry sales in these regions, jewelers have noted that after similar destructive storms, a boom in rebuilding ultimately brought more money back to the region.
DIAMONDS
De Beers’ August-September cycle (sight) totaled $505 million, a reduction of 21% from last year’s sale for that period and 12% down from the July cycle. The reasons, according to De Beers’ CEO Bruce Cleaver, were two-fold:

De Beers front-loaded goods to Indian clients in anticipation of an early Diwali holiday, which begins Oct. 18, one or two weeks earlier than usual.
Prevailing caution in the market in the run-up to the Sept. 13-21 Hong Kong shows.

On the first point, Indian diamond manufacturers typically close for two weeks during the holiday. If the market is slow, they will often stay closed for a longer period to let inventories subside and to bolster polished prices.

On the second point, rough sales and manufacturing have been running ahead of polished demand for most of the year in most size and quality categories. While there are spot shortages of very specific goods (medium-color melee sized SI stones, for example), in general there is an oversupply of inventory that is softening polished prices. Estimates are that inventories have increased 25% to 35% in the past 18 months, without a corresponding increase in demand.

Additionally, the diamond industry credit crunch continues to squeeze a lot of firms – even some big names – and softening processes do not help their case with the banks. As with the previous few years, the opening of the Hong Kong show will bring a dash for cash, with a lot of firms selling excess goods at a discount to keep their standing with the banks.

Regardless of the inventory situation, demand for rough has remained robust all year – as it has since the late 2015 “price rebellion,” when a number of De Beers’ clients refused to buy goods at then-current prices. De Beers, followed by Alrosa and Rio Tinto, lowered prices by an average of 15% early in 2016. Prices of polished stones, however, have slowly ebbed this year.
CHINA
Retail sales in China have taken an encouraging upturn. Chow Sang Sang, the country’s second largest jewelry retailer, logged a 3% same-store increase for the first half ending June 30. Sales in the mainland rose 8%, but continued slow tourism in Hong Kong and Macau caused declines of 4% and 5%, respectively. Source: GIA @topic:8


Title: De Beers Remains Optimistic For 2016 Abstract: De Beers executives remained cautiously optimistic about the remainder of the year after allocating a July cycle (formerly called sight) of $520 million that produced no refusals or complaints about prices, which have held steady for most of the year.

	The total of the July 25-29 cycle was about 8% less than June and the smallest all year, which was not surprising after lackluster demand at JCK Las Vegas and the June Hong Kong Gem and Jewellery Show. Reports from the cycle said that De Beers did not lower prices despite high inventories and declining premiums on rough parcels sold in secondary markets.

	De Beers’ new CEO Bruce Cleaver said that the company would continue to take a cautious role through the remainder of the year.  He also vowed to ramp up programs “designed to stimulate demand for diamonds and continue operations that enhance branding and product integrity.”

	Cleaver came down firmly on the side of expanding diamond marketing programs to include millennials, saying: “Taking continued demand for granted would be a mistake. And assuming the factors that influenced demand yesterday will be the same as those that influence demand tomorrow is folly. We must embrace changing consumer trends and see them as an opportunity to grow.”

	De Beers reported a first half profit of $585 million on sales of $3.3 billion. This strong performance that was extremely welcome for its corporate parent, Anglo American Corp., which had been in financial difficulty after the commodities price crashes of last year. By volume, the total was just over 17 million carats, a 29% increase over last year – a period when diamond manufacturers were hard-squeezed by rising inventories, shrinking credit and declining polished prices.

	Alrosa, the Russian-based diamond producer, announced its sales increased 19% to $1.2 billion during the first half of the year. By volume, sales were up 7% to 9.6 million carats. Revenue rose much higher than volume because the company offered a larger percentage of gem quality rough and trimmed offerings of industrial goods.

	While the credit situation remains difficult, De Beers executives noted that inventories levels have stabilized and don’t see them as problematic.

	In India, however, the credit crunch continues to take its toll with several large firms declaring bankruptcy and one major sightholder on the banks’ watch list.

	COLORED STONES

	Gemfields, the London based colored stone mining company, plans to nearly triple its ruby production at the Montepuez Mine in Mozambique. The company secured a $65 million finance package to expand production facilities at the mine, which will bring production to 20 million carats yearly, up from the current 8 million.

	Some of the proceeds from the loan package will go toward expanding production at the Kagem emerald mine to 40 million carats, up from a current 30 million carats.

	GOLD PRICE

	The currency volatility following Britain’s brexit vote helped push the gold price to its highest level in two years, topping $1350 oz. The World Gold Council noted that this represents a 29% increase over the metal’s January 1 level. The Council predicts that gold will top $1400 oz. by the year’s end. Source: GIA @topic:8


Title: Irradiated Topaz and Radioactivity Abstract: A parcel of 100 stones of deep blue irradiated topaz, imported from Brazil, was found to be radioactive at a level somewhat higher than typical background activity. Analysis indicates that the material had been treated by neutrons in a nuclear reactor. Most irradiated topaz in the trade is not radioactive. Nevertheless, routine testing for radioactivity in topaz, beryl, green diamonds, red tourmaline, and possibly all gemstones may be advisable for the protection of the jeweler. Source: GIA @topic:1


Title: 2017 Vegas Outlook: Decent, But Cautious, Buying Abstract: Sotheby’s May 16 Geneva auction featured the Apollo Blue (14.54 cts) and Artemis Pink (16 cts) as an earring set. The pair drew a total of $57 million – $42.1 million ($2.9 million per carat) for the Fancy Vivid blue and $15.3 million ($958,000 per carat) for the Fancy Intense pink. Photo courtesy of Sotheby’s

First quarter U.S. retail jewelry sales showed a slight increase, according to the U.S. Department of Commerce figures, though most gains appeared to be at the higher and lower ends. Larger U.S. jewelry chains, which generally serve the middle class market, are expected to again report soft numbers for the first half of the year. Tiffany & Co. reported that its latest quarterly U.S. same store sales were 4% below the comparable period last year and Signet Corp., parent company to Kay Jewelers, Zales and Jared Galeria, said its first quarter sales plunged 11% compared to last year.

It’s likely that buyers at the upcoming June 5-8 JCK Las Vegas show will stick to their open-to-buy plans, but take relatively few chances on new lines or extra stock. Business at the boutique shows just before JCK should be a little stronger, however, because these shows are geared to the higher-end independent retailers who generally outperform the chains.

The results from the large retail jewelry chains, which have been lagging several percentage points below last year, show they are not immune to the difficulties confronting U.S. retailers these days.
RETAIL WOES
According to the Wall Street Journal (WSJ), some 8,600 retail outlets of all types are expected to close this year, a number surpassing the 2009 recession year. Entire shopping malls have closed or converted much of their retail space to non-retail activities, such as movie theaters and restaurants. While many analysts blame online shopping for some of the decline, clearly other factors are at work as well, as e-commerce sites have not been growing strongly either.

CEOs quoted in the WSJ article said fierce competition has kept prices low across the board, while costs rise. The CEO of Calvin Klein/Tommy Hilfiger noted that a pair of men’s dress pants costs less today than in 2007.

Consumers face increased costs of their own while wages remain stagnant. New cars, for example, are becoming less feasible for some would-be buyers, according to Michelle Krebs, a senior analyst with Cox Automotive. “It’s not just the price of the cars – it’s the price of everything else,” she said. “The price of things like health care, shelter – all of that is fighting for the budget.”
MODERATE MAY SIGHT
De Beers’ May cycle (sight) was moderate at $520 million, with apparently few additional deals struck outside the process. The total was about 12% below April’s cycle total of $586 million.

De Beers’ executives said in interviews that sales totals for the remainder of the year should be at “normal” levels following larger-than-expected allocations during the first quarter.

The early-year sales were directed mainly at some leading Indian manufacturers who had significantly cut their purchases late last year in response to the Indian government’s “demonetizing” higher denomination rupee notes. While the government action created some short-term turmoil in the country’s economy (many contractors and workers were paid in cash), business there adjusted much more quickly than expected.

The large sights made it possible for the company to clear a 6.7 million carat stockpile of lower value diamonds that had accumulated during the demonetization last year.

To further its “mine to market” initiatives to guarantee the supply chain of its diamonds, De Beers announced it would begin test-selling a wide range of qualities and sizes of polished stones in periodic auctions beginning in late June. The company said the test was to gauge demand for diamonds “with a clear and attractive source of origin” and “to offer the assurance of product integrity that dual certification provides.” The diamonds are graded by GIA and DeBeers gemological labs, according to a DeBeers’ press statement.
AUCTIONS
Prices for top gems at auctions have not continued at the record-breaking pace of the past few years where every sale saw a new benchmark, but they have remained solid.

The headliners for the spring season were a pair of fancy color diamonds sold at Sotheby’s Geneva on May 16: the GIA-graded Fancy Intense pink 16 carat (ct) Artemis Pink ($15.3 million /$958,000 per carat) and the 14.54 ct GIA-graded Fancy Vivid Apollo Blue ($42.1 million/$2.9 million per carat).

At Christie’s Geneva the following day, the 92 ct D flawless La Legende diamond brought in $14.98 million. The $163,000 per carat price was a record for a heart-shaped diamond, but well below prices that other large D flawless diamonds have achieved.

As reported last month, the auction season began with a record at Sotheby’s in Hong Kong: at $71 million the 59.6 ct Pink Star diamond was the most expensive gem ever auctioned. Its per-carat price of $1.2 million, however, was less than half of what similarly graded smaller diamonds have achieved at auction.

Prices for such top stones can vary widely because the market is thin at that level and is usually dependent upon two or three bidders running prices up after they pass the reserves. If even one of those buyers does not bid, then the prices can be 20% to 30% lower. Source: GIA @topic:8


Title: Shared Bonds: GIA Education Connects Alumni Members Around the World – for Life Abstract: Alumni members travel the world to meet fellow graduates and experience all the gem and jewelry industry has to offer, such as the Mexico chapter’s annual visit to pearl farms in the Sea of Cortez. Photo courtesy of the GIA Mexico City Alumni Chapter

	Alumni members around the globe continue to amaze me with their commitment, dedication and pursuit of excellence.

	In recent months, I have had opportunities to interact with many members worldwide as I visited some of our global chapters. I shared celebrations of longevity, observed the positive evolution of change and supported the advancement of both chapters and individuals. Each experience made it possible for me to observe first-hand the impact GIA education has had on so many.

	I visited with chapter members in Japan, Korea, Malaysia and across the U.S., and connected with members from Asia, Europe, the Middle East and North and South America at trade fairs. Alumni shared stories of personal achievements and lifetime opportunities that they attribute directly to their GIA education, including increased personal confidence and professionalism; the significance of their reputation and responsibility as individuals to uphold ethical industry standards; and the value of a lifetime of learning.

	These foundations − along with the relationships that began between classmates or developed as industry associates − continue to connect our alumni worldwide. Their shared experiences and mutual respect often bring alums together for business success. It’s heartwarming to hear of so many personal successes and commitments of alumni − to the Institute and themselves − to uphold GIA’s legacy of excellence.

	I applaud members around the world for their actions, and encourage others not active in the alumni community to take steps to get more involved. One of the ways alumni can do so is to take the opportunity to network ‒ whether in your home city or when you travel ‒ at GIA Alumni Association chapter events. These provide limitless possibilities for you to stay relevant with issues and to make new connections in the industry to become more successful. More than 40 events were hosted by GIA Alumni Association chapters since May 2016. You can visit our events page and the alumni Facebook page to learn when events are scheduled.

A group of alumni gathered to celebrate the GIA Alumni Association Japan’s 25th anniversary. Photo courtesy of Bunkyo Yuno

	Alumni Visits to Asia

	A special thank you to the alumni leaders and members of chapters in   Japan  ,  Korea  and Malaysia for the  exceptional experience of visiting your chapters in M ay. Highlights of this trip include:

Alumni Association Japan (AAJ)’s 25th anniversary, which included a celebratory reception, education seminar and recognition of Ms. Yoshiko Doi for her 40 years of service to GIA Tokyo. More than 100 members of AAJ attended, along with GIA’s Susan Jacques, Seung-Hae Moon, Phil York.

		The Korea chapter elected new leadership, Phil Oh, GIA GG, as president, and re-launched the chapter. I gave a brief alumni update to more than 60 attendees, which included past chapter leaders, alumni and members of the gemstone and jewelry trade in Seoul.

		The Malaysia chapter hosted a luncheon during which I presented an update on GIA education news and alumni benefits. The chapter welcomed new board members and recognized the immediate past president, Yihchen Ng, for his leadership and formation of the chapter in 2011.

 Malaysia Chapter meet-up with GIA Global Alumni Relations Manager Kate Donovan (center, 5th from right), in Kuala Lumpur. Photo courtesy of Kelvin Chow Fook Yoong

	Chapters News

		The following chapters celebrated milestone anniversaries in recent months:

Alumni Association Japan – 25 years

Mexico City – 10 years

Monterrey, Mexico – 1 year

		New chapter leaders were welcomed in Houston, Korea, London, Malaysia and South Florida

 Six industry organizations celebrated “A Night Among Gems” at the Natural History Museum of Los Angeles. Photo courtesy of Gaelen Casey

	Chapter Activities

		Susan Jacques, GIA president and CEO, spoke to members of New Orleans chapter and attendees of the Louisiana Jewelers Association conference in August.

		Synthetic diamonds in the jewelry market remain a primary topic and have been the discussion at five chapter events – Johannesburg, Georgia, San Diego, St. Louis and Manhattan.

		Colored gemstone talks were hosted in London, St. Louis and Washington D.C., featuring Evan Caplan on alexandrite, Renee Newman on exotic gems, and Vincent Pardieu on gems of Madagascar.

		Fancy colored diamond lectures featured speakers Alan Bronstein, in Manhattan and Diana Benoit, in Mexico City. GIA’s Ric Taylor provided education on diamond fluorescence in Johannesburg.

		Updates on gemstone treatments were popular events held by Japan, St. Louis and Wisconsin. The Los Angeles chapter launched the first annual Rossman Caltech Research Lecture. George Rossman, professor of mineralogy at the California Institute of Technology (Caltech), presented research updates and discussed the cause of color in gem materials to 99 attendees. Rossman is also a member of Gems & Gemology editorial review board and is a former GIA Board of Governor.

		Hands-on gemological sessions continue with members of Twin Cities, who are participating in a multi-part 2016 “Year of Corundum” study group.

		Appraisal methodology was taught by appraising professional Bill Hoefer, GIA GG, in Cincinnati and Michigan.

		Jewelry history, design and lapidary talks were held in Manhattan, San Diego, Switzerland and Washington, D.C. presented by known experts Come Remy, Tim Adams, Denise Nelson, Jacqueline Stone and Helen Serras-Herman.

		A Kimberly Process review was presented by Pat Syvrud, executive director of the World Diamond Council (WDC) to Washington D.C.

		A film night featured a screening of the documentary “Sharing the Rough” in Monterrey, Mexico, St. Louis and Vermont.

 Cincinnati’s Summer Social with members of the GIA alumni chapter and AGS guild. Photo courtesy of the Cincinnati chapter

		Business-focused educational events included speakers Molly Clark on social media in Manhattan and Bosco Chow on “Understanding Intellectual Property” in Hong Kong.

		Local networking socials were successful in Cincinnati, Hong Kong and Toronto.

		“A Night Among Gems,” celebrated by the Natural History Museum of Los Angeles gem and mineral collection, welcomed its newly appointed curator, Dr. Aaron Celestian. The evening was organized by the Los Angeles chapter and brought together six industry associations, and more than 175 members and guests.

		Members from across the globe gathered for mixed chapter meet-ups. Canada, Malaysia and Taiwan visited Sri Lanka; Spain and Monterrey, Mexico paired in Las Vegas to host an all alumni event with 80 attendees; Hong Kong, Manhattan and Georgia welcomed visitors at events they hosted and planned around major trade fairs in their area.

		The annual “Gemstone Safari” to visit pearl farms in the Sea of Cortez was a success for Mexico City and included members of Monterrey, Mexico, plus GIA’s Robert Weldon, who  lectured on the “Splendor & Science of Pearls,” a book he co-authored with Dona M. Dirlam, director of the Richard T. Liddicoat Library and Information Center in Carlsbad.

 Mexico’s alumni members went on their annual “Gemstone Safari” to visit pearl farms in the Sea of Cortez, including a hands-on look at mollusks and pearls. Photo courtesy of the GIA Mexico City Alumni Chapter

	The value of the GIA Alumni network and its people is immeasurable. Whether its business relationships, connections for resources, mentorship or a shared affinity for the gems and jewelry that brought us to study at GIA, the benefits and bonds between all graduates is easy to see.

	I hope the education and networking events organized by our chapters inspire you to take action and attend a chapter event in the future. Source: GIA @topic:11


Title: Books: The Art of Bulgari:La Dolce Vita and Beyond, 1950–1990 Abstract: By Martin Chapman and Amanda Triossi, 174 pp., hardcover, illus., publ. by The Arts Museums of San Francisco/Delmonico Books/Prestel, 2013, $34.95.

              For those who associate Bulgari with vivid colored stone cabochons or antique Roman coins mounted in gold jewelry, Chapman and Triossi’s book is an eye-opener. The Art of Bulgari served as the catalog for the exhibition of the same name at the de Young Museum in San Francisco, intended to chronicle the succession of glamorous celebrities who have worn Bulgari from the dolce vita years of Italian cultural creativity through today. The authors also aim to trace the development of Bulgari’s creative aesthetic through compelling and sometimes surprising examples of its work. In both respects, they succeed.

The jewelry and luxury goods firm is so strongly associated with Rome that it may surprise readers to know that the founder, Sortirio Bulgari, opened his first shop in his native Greece. He later relocated to Naples, and finally to Rome in 1881, where the flagship store, opened in 1905, still stands at 10 Via Condotti.

Prior to World War II, the company operated as a traditional goldsmith shop, but thanks to Sortirio’s forward-thinking sons Costantino and Giorgio, Bulgari began to take a more contemporary direction. Jewelry inspired by Greco-Roman classicism, the Italian Renaissance, and the 19th-century Roman school of goldsmiths took hold, as Bulgari acquired important gemstones and created exclusive luxury pieces, including an emerald and diamond necklace commissioned by American socialite Brooke Astor.

In the post-war 1950s and ’60s, American movies were often filmed in Italy, where production costs were advantageous. As a result, many Hollywood stars fell in love with Bulgari’s bold new style, which featured large pieces set with colored gemstones. Most notable of these was Elizabeth Taylor, although Audrey Hepburn, Ingrid Bergman, Ava Gardner, and Gina Lollobrigida were also steady customers. Wealthy and influential socialites, including Barbara Hutton and Diana Vreeland, also became collectors.

Beginning with the 1950s, Chapman and Triossi show us the evolution, decade by decade, of Bulgari’s distinctive style. The use of color in so many Bulgari pieces stands out, but some gold and diamond jewels featured in this book, such as the Fireworks necklace and the Parentese parure, both from the Heritage Collection, are likewise dazzling.

The book devotes a chapter to pieces from Elizabeth Taylor’s Bulgari collection. Taylor is quoted as saying, “Undeniably, one of the biggest advantages of working on Cleopatra in Rome was [the Bulgari store].” It is clear how dearly she loved this jewelry, wearing her Heritage Collection platinum necklace with emeralds and diamonds to receive an Academy Award in 1966 and again when she was introduced to Queen Elizabeth II of England.

The Art of Bulgari also showcases whimsical pieces  that are relatively unknown. Such items include a gold measuring stick (1970), a silver-and-gold St. Moritz cigarette case (1977), a silver-and-gold tennis ball canister (1980), and a wonderful boat paperweight (1974) fashioned of sterling and gilded silver to look like a boat of folded paper. An exotic gold table clock with onyx, mother-of-pearl, and diamond (1980) is set off by two antique Chinese jade belt hooks.

The text is enhanced by excellent photography, with many jewels displayed in full-page plates. Original sketches of jewelry designs also add visual interest and insight, and photos of famous clientele wearing their Bulgari jewels abound. From magnificent bib necklaces and snake bracelet watches, to the whimsical Star-Spangled Banner series and ice cream cone brooches, this is a stunning look at Bulgari.

Chapman is a curator at the Fine Arts Museums of San Francisco, and Triossi, a jewelry historian and consultant, is curator of the Bulgari Heritage Collection. Together, the authors do an admirable job of presenting Bulgari’s history and cultural impact. Source: GIA @topic:6


Title: Glass Imitation of Star Sapphire Abstract: Figure 1. Glass cabochons with weights ranging from 0.47 to 1.29 ct were obtained by the author. The stones displayed white six-ray stars across their domes, resembling star sapphire. Photo by Jessa Rizzo.
The market for sapphire simulants and synthetics is plentiful, as sapphire is likely the most popular of all colored stones. The high cost of natural, gem-quality sapphire means it is not obtainable for much of the world’s population. This has opened the doors of creativity to produce blue stones with high luster resembling the natural material. Recently, the author obtained a parcel of blue cabochons with an unusual star pattern resembling star sapphire (figure 1). After a series of tests were performed, the material was identified as manufactured glass.

Figure 2. A vertical cross section of the glass cabochon showcases the internal structure and diagnostic flow lines imitating star sapphire. Photo by Nathan Renfro.
Gemological investigation revealed an average specific gravity of 2.46 and a refractive index of 1.40. The cabochons were inert to long-wave ultraviolet radiation but exhibited strong chalky blue fluorescence under short-wave ultraviolet radiation. Observation under a microscope revealed gas bubbles shallow to the surface within the blue regions of the stones and small conchoidal fractures along the girdles. One cabochon was cut in half vertically for further scientific investigation (figure 2). This cross section uncovered a large core of white glass raised to the surface of the dome in a star pattern. Flow lines were also visible within the white glass core. Finally, a thin layer of blue glass around the perimeter of the cabochon was seen in the cross section, creating the bodycolor of the stone (again, see figure 2).
Asterism is an optical phenomenon that can be defined as a star-shaped concentration of reflected or refracted light from inclusions within a gemstone cut en cabochon. Genuine asterism is also mobile if the stone and/or light source is moved. These glass imitation star sapphires, however, do not exhibit genuine asterism, as their stars were simply molded into shape and are fixed in place.
Glass imitations span the gamut of gemstones. Faceted transparent colorless glass is one of the oldest and simplest diamond simulants. Glass beads coated with pearlescent paint are a common pearl imitation, and colored glass of various opacities is capable of imitating almost any colored gemstone. Recent G&G articles on colored stone imitations include “Artificial glass imitating a Paraíba tourmaline” (Winter 2020 Lab Notes, pp. 518–520), “Greenish blue glass imitating gem silica” (Summer 2020 Gem News International, pp. 314–315), and “Glass bangles” imitating jadeite and nephrite (Spring 2019 Lab Notes, pp. 93–94). Source: GIA @topic:3


Title: ‘Hippie’ Designer-Appraiser Follows Her Heart, Re-ignites Local Alumni Chapter Abstract: “If I had known then what I know now, I would have jumped in with less reserve and taken more risks,” says Rebecca Buys, GG, of her early career in the jewelry industry. As her career evolved, so did her hobbies: she learned to ride motorcycles in her 50s and bought a Kawasaki Vulcan 1500. “I ride for the fun and adventure it brings,” she says. Courtesy of Rebecca Buys

	“Sometimes I feel like I hit the jackpot.”

	Rebecca Buys, a GIA Graduate Gemologist and a senior member of the National Association of Jewelry Appraisers, says she’s never happier than when a client brings in a special designer piece for identification and valuation.

	“Recently, a client and her 95-year-old mother brought a parcel of jewels that her mother, a French woman, was passing on to her,” she says. “The American-born daughter had little knowledge or appreciation for the items. As I gazed in wonder at some of the pieces, the mother began telling stories in her thick, delightful French accent of how she acquired signed, vintage designer jewelry from Mauboussin and Van Cleef & Arpels. She spoke of the Palace Vendome, and shopping for jewels with her beloved in the 1930s and 1940s.”

	For Buys, jewelry “tells a story of romance and love,” and that story goes back decades for the appraiser-designer, who has been captivated by rocks, minerals, gems and jewelry for as long as she can remember.

		People find me in the weirdest ways. I call it magic – I always seem to have lots of work… I enjoy the people I meet and love to hear the stories of their precious items.

		Rebecca Buys, GIA GG

	Buys grew up in Ohio and remembers exploring the area around her home − and discovering a new passion.

	“As a child of the ‘50s, I was allowed to freely roam the gorge and falls near our home,” she says, noting that there was a nearby cave with Native American paintings, as well as a tribal burial site. “It was a pristine place where I discovered artifacts and colored rocks, and the fact that rocks came in colors fascinated me.”

	Buys became a budding rock collector, spending her allowance money on a children’s collector set. As she grew and the family moved to San Diego, her interest expanded to include jewelry and beads, and her explorations reached a little further, and away from home – frequently on trips to San Francisco and Santa Cruz to find “cool and unusual” beads and findings to make into earrings. Though Buys wanted to pursue a career in the arts, her parents encouraged her to pursue what they considered a more practical path.

	“So I became a business major and worked as a legal secretary in downtown Los Angeles out of college,” she says of her life in the late 1970s. “Until I decided to become a hippie and follow my spiritual quest.”

	Following that quest would lead many places – connecting with a spiritual guru in Southern California, embracing a brief apprenticeship with a likeminded goldsmith-designer in Big Sur, and finally, moving to Poona, India for four months to live and study in an ashram.

	“While in India, I discovered faceted, colorful gemstones, and they were plentiful and inexpensive,” she says. Buys returned to Southern California to care for her ailing mother, and brought the gems with her. She found a goldsmith to set them, and began to sell her designs.

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	Eventually, Buys partnered with a colored stone dealer and opened a retail store, Charles & Co., in the heart of downtown Encinitas, a seaside enclave in north San Diego County. She often traveled to the Tucson gem and mineral shows and to colored-stone markets in Thailand.

	“We had a healthy inventory of rubies, sapphires of all colors, tourmalines, opals and tanzanite. While our strength was in our colored gemstone inventory, we were rapidly expanding in diamond sales. I didn't know much about selling diamonds, and heard about GIA from colleagues and dealers,” she says. “I took the diamond grading class at the Santa Monica campus and received my Diamond ID and Grading certificate in 1985.”

	Buys and her partner successfully operated their store for nearly 20 years, but when they sold it in 2000 she was ready for a change.

	“I didn’t believe I could have a successful career on my own,” she explains. “I thought I would leave the industry and do something else. I knew I loved it, but wasn’t sure how to make it work.”

	It turned out that Buys’ customers weren’t ready to see her go. “Clients kept finding me,” she says. They were seeking her design and repair services, and though Buys knew she didn’t want to open another retail store, she began to think about how to branch out on her own.

	She decided the first step was to come back to GIA and worked on her GG from 2002-2005 through Distance Education and lab classes in Carlsbad.

	“It took me nearly 20 years to complete my GIA education,” she says. “Being at the new campus was such an inspiration. I had a good knowledge of colored stones, but what I learned at GIA took it to a different level. Much of what I thought I knew was improved with my GIA education.”

Buys, second from left (in white blouse), leads an “active membership” as president of the GIA Alumni Association’s San Diego chapter. “I encourage everyone to become involved in their local GIA Alumni Association chapter,” she says. “Attending presentations, field trips and special events really increases your knowledge and expands your network.” She is pictured with, from left, JJ Williams, president of Number 8; Craig Danforth, GIA director of global business development; and Kate Donovan, GIA alumni relations manager.

	Buys, who says she felt “empowered” with new confidence, began attending GIA Alumni Association events to meet fellow professionals who gladly exchanged ideas and contacts. As her network and knowledge increased, she noticed that the San Diego Alumni Association chapter was struggling to plan activities and pull together a leadership board.

	“I felt like it was essential for San Diego to have a thriving, active chapter, so I volunteered to step in as temporary president,” she says. “Several years later, I’m still president! We have an active membership and our board is coming together nicely. We also have numerous volunteers and host exciting speakers nearly every other month. There are plenty of excellent opportunities for mentorship and networking.”

	Earning her AJP and GG diplomas also made it possible for Buys to join the National Association of Jewelry Appraisers, which launched the next phase of her career.

	“I knew I liked the research aspects of determining an item’s worth,” she says. “It was a good way to utilize my education, experience and knowledge outside of the retail environment.”

	Buys – who doesn’t advertise or have a studio open to the public, and operates under the name Rebecca Young Designs – says her custom design and appraisal clients mostly find her through word of mouth and referrals from local jewelers.

	“People find me in the weirdest ways,” she says. “I call it magic – I always seem to have lots of work, it always comes. I enjoy the people I meet and love to hear the stories of their precious items. It’s a privilege to be trusted to accurately identify, educate and evaluate their treasures.”

	She also finds herself lately doing more large estate jewelry parcels for attorneys, banks and executors, and finds those large assignments rewarding, too.

	“I have a deeper knowledge and understanding that if you follow your passion – do what you really love – a way to succeed will always be presented,” says Buys, who recently learned to ride motorcycles for the sake of adventure.

	“If I had known then what I know now, I would have jumped in with less reserve and taken more risks,” she says. “I couldn’t have guessed it would be so fulfilling.” Source: GIA @topic:11


Title: Spring 2023 Auction Highlights Abstract: Figure 1. The Bulgari Laguna Blu, an 11.16 ct Fancy Vivid blue diamond, was featured for the first time at auction in Geneva. Courtesy of Sotheby’s.
Following a lackluster start to the auction season in Hong Kong, all eyes were on the estate of late Austrian billionaire Heidi Horten in May, presented by Christie’s in Geneva. Leading up to the three-part auction, the collection made headlines due to the controversial source of Horten’s wealth. (Horten’s late husband reportedly made his fortune buying businesses from Jews forced to sell well below value in Nazi Germany.) Despite the controversy, the sale became the most lucrative jewelry auction in history, garnering $202.2 million and surpassing the 2011 auction of Elizabeth Taylor’s estate, which totaled $116 million. In accordance with her wishes, proceeds from Horten’s estate were donated to a foundation for medical research, child welfare, and access to the arts, while Christie’s pledged to donate part of its commission to Holocaust-related charities.
Also in Geneva, Sotheby’s rebounded from a disappointing fall 2022 auction season for colored diamonds (Winter 2022 GNI, pp. 524–526) with the sale of the Bulgari Laguna Blu (figure 1). Cut by Bulgari in the 1970s for a private collector, the 11.16 ct Fancy Vivid blue diamond made its auction debut, selling just above its estimate at $25.2 million after only four minutes of bidding. As the highest-priced gem Bulgari has ever sold, the VS1, type IIb diamond also holds GIA’s highest color grade for a blue diamond.

Figure 2. The 126.76 ct Internally Flawless Light of Peace diamond sold for $13.6 million. Courtesy of Christie’s.
The season ended on a high note in June with the New York auctions. Leading Christie’s Magnificent Jewels sale, the 126.76 ct Internally Flawless Light of Peace diamond (figure 2) was offered without a reserve. Selling within its presale estimate, the GIA-graded type IIa diamond garnered $13.6 million. The largest stone cut from a 435 ct rough unearthed in West Africa, the Light of Peace was once owned by the Zale family, who used the diamond to fund peace-supporting missions. To continue this legacy of goodwill, a portion of the proceeds from the auction will be donated to the United Nations High Commissioner for Refugees.

Figure 3. The Estrela de Fura, a 55.22 ct ruby from Mozambique, became the largest and highest-priced ruby ever sold at auction. Courtesy of Sotheby’s.
At Sotheby’s Magnificent Jewels auction, two gems smashed multiple records. The Estrela de Fura (figure 3), a 55.22 ct “pigeon’s blood” ruby, became both the largest and most expensive ruby ever to sell at auction, raking in $34.8 million. The gem was cut from a 101 ct rough mined in Mozambique in July 2022, which made headlines as the largest gem-quality ruby ever discovered. Remarkable not only for its unprecedented size, the Estrela de Fura’s florescence, clarity, and vivid red hue rival that of Burmese rubies. A portion of the proceeds from the sale will help establish the Fura Training Academy in Mozambique, encouraging access for locals to education and technical training in areas such as mining, engineering, carpentry, and agriculture.

Figure 4. The 10.57 ct Eternal Pink diamond set a new record per-carat price at $3.3 million. Courtesy of Sotheby’s.
Also selling for $34.8 million, the Eternal Pink (figure 4), a 10.57 ct Internally Flawless Fancy Vivid purplish pink diamond, fell just short of its estimate but still surpassed the previous record for a diamond of this color grade. The GIA-graded diamond, which was cut from a 23.78 ct rough from Botswana, set a new record price per carat at $3.3 million. Sales of the Eternal Pink and the Estrela de Fura helped Sotheby’s break two more records, becoming the first auction to sell two items for more than $30 million each and achieving the highest total ever for a jewelry auction at Sotheby’s New York. The overall sale brought in $95.9 million, topping the house’s previous record of $65.1 million from April 2015. Source: GIA @topic:8


Title: Museum, Lab Collaborate with Students on Design Project Abstract: JDT students recently completed a design project that featured tourmalines from the GIA Museum. This digital rendering shows the gold rings Tyler Abe created using 3-D scanning and CAD (computer-aided design) technology. ©GIA

	Artists are often inspired by the beauty of the materials they use. A sculptor may sense form in a block of stone; a painter might sense the image in the texture of a canvas. In the same way artists transform canvas and stone, jewelry designers manipulate gems and metals into works of art, taking inspiration from the raw material. That inspiration, however, strikes each artist or designer differently.

	GIA’s museum and laboratory staff recently collaborated with the Institute’s first Jewelry Design & Technology (JDT) class to encourage students to find inspiration in gems. The effort tapped into the museum’s wealth of history and knowledge and the analytical and research tools of the lab.

	“JDT students often have the opportunity to see beautiful gems and jewelry from GIA’s museum, but have never had the chance to create their own designs with gems from the collection,” said McKenzie Santimer, GIA museum exhibit developer. Terri Ottaway, GIA museum curator, and Santimer challenged students to design rings featuring five tourmalines from the museum.

	The tourmalines, ranging in size from eight to 11 carats, span the color spectrum. Four were originally owned by Edward J. Gübelin, a pioneer in the world of gemology who amassed one of the most extensive personal gem collections in the world, which was acquired by GIA for the museum in 2005.

	The project gave students the freedom to explore their own design style. The GIA museum staff, as clients for these designers, gave the students careful requirements. Each of the five tourmalines had to be incorporated into a size seven, yellow gold ring with up to one carat of side diamonds to enhance the designs. To encourage the students to find inspiration in the beauty of each stone, Ottaway and Santimer described the localities where each of the tourmalines were mined in Brazil (8.15 carat cushion-shaped red and 11.96 carat cushion-shaped green), Namibia (9.89 carat emerald-cut bi-colored red and blue), Nigeria (9.4 carat oval-shaped blue) and Mozambique (9.15 carat round orange).

	Hannah Becker, from Philadelphia, Pennsylvania, embraced the opportunity to design a collection that would highlight the “big and flashy” tourmalines. She relished the chance to work through her own ideas to create pieces that match her style. When she learned the green tourmaline came from Minas Gerais, a town in Brazil known for baroque-style churches, she designed a ring reminiscent of the architecture she learned about while studying art history.

	“Everyone’s projects were really different and demonstrated what we’re interested in,” she said. “It was fun to see how everybody tackled each stone.”

	Josh White, of San Francisco, California, instantly found his inspiration when he saw the tourmalines. “I knew I wanted to design something elegant,” he said. His designs featured traditional techniques such as prong and bezel settings.

	This CAD rendering, designed by Josh White, illustrates prong and bezel settings. ©GIA

	The GIA laboratory used 3-D scanning technology to create a representation of each tourmaline, called a stereo lithography file (STL file). The file was then imported into CAD (computer-aided design) systems so the students could create renderings of their designs that matched exact specifications of the stones.

	"Technology from the GIA lab, like the 3-D scanning machine, helps ensure students have the latest tools used in the jewelry industry," said Mark Maxwell, GIA's Jewelry Manufacturing Arts manager. “This is how our students benefit from the work done in our lab.”

	White learned first-hand how important this technology is when he was asked recently during a job interview if he had experience with 3-D scanning. He was able to give specific examples, including his designs from this project.

	“Cookie-cutter stones don’t exist in the real world,” he said. If you plan to work in custom jewelry, you need to know how to design using 3-D scanning, he added.

	Students also made rapid prototypes of their designs using the 3-D rendering and CAM (computer-aided manufacturing) tools. The prototypes are an exact representation of their design, from the intricate aesthetic details to dimensions that precisely match the tourmalines. Maxwell demonstrated the perfect fit by placing one of the tourmalines into the prongs of the plastic prototype designed for it.

	“Our goal is to create real-life, real-world experiences for the students,” he said. “This project is just one of many that prepares them for situations they’ll likely encounter in the jewelry industry.”

	This plastic prototype was made using CAM (computer-aided manufacturing) tools after Alyssa Brownell created a CAD rendering (inset) of her design. ©GIA

	Students presented their projects to fellow classmates, instructors and Ottaway and Santimer. The instructors gave feedback on the practical aspects of their designs; Ottaway and Santimer responded from an artistic standpoint, discussing how the rings highlighted the stones and the quality of the design.

	Santimer enjoyed working with students on the project because she said it let them explore jewelry as an art.

	“Some students designed avant-garde pieces that would be difficult to wear, but are meant for display in the museum,” Santimer said. “If it’s art, you can break the rules.”

	In the end, for Becker, it was all about the gems. “The museum is such an invaluable resource because of the beautiful and historic gems they have,” she said. “With this project the stones dictated our designs.”

	Talk about inspiration.

	Hannah Becker found inspiration for her designs from the localities where the tourmalines were mined. ©GIA Source: GIA @topic:11


Title: Spring 2019 Auctions: Premium Prices for Historic Pieces Abstract: A circa 1935 Art Deco emerald and diamond creation, presumably made by Van Cleef & Arpels for American socialite and collector Hélène Beaumont. Courtesy of Sotheby’s

While the major auction houses are still making news with their rare gemstone offerings, the news about recent sales is focused more on history than record prices.
This year’s auctions have seen fewer lots, fewer very large diamonds and an easing of prices from the record levels seen a few years ago. But auction executives are quick to point out that the market for high quality gems and jewels is still robust – for pieces with a historic past.
“Our April New York auction represents the market, right now,” said Rahul Kadakia, Christie’s International Head of Jewellery. The April 16 sale did not have any top fancy colored diamonds over 5 carats or D flawless diamonds larger than 25 carats, as had been the case in recent years. In addition, a high percentage of lots came from estates, not dealers.
Several 15 ct-plus diamonds achieved per carat prices of more than $100,000 at the sale, which he acknowledged was down from the peaks of $150,000 to $180,000 in mid-decade.
“That was a spike in the market,” he explained. “But if you look at the long run, prices have risen substantially for such stones over the years.”
Sotheby’s May 14 Geneva sale saw one large D fl (36.57 ct) diamond sell for about $5 million ($136,000 per carat), but most of the action was for signed period jewels, such as The Beaumont Necklace, a circa 1935 Art Deco emerald and diamond creation, presumably made by Van Cleef & Arpels for collector Hélène Beaumont, that sold for $3.6 million, about 20% above its estimate.
Tailoring Auction Items to Market Demand
When the market weakens for major gemstones, the auction houses have to become more careful about curating their sales – smaller high-quality stones, more classic “signed” period jewels – and concentrate more on estate pieces. Prices are usually less aggressive than those from dealers, Kadakia said.
Dealers who sell at auction said they need high prices to recoup the auction seller premiums of 12% to 15% on sales. (Note that auctions also charge buyers a similar rate. Thus, if a gemstone has a hammer price of $100,000, the buyer will likely pay $115,000 and the seller will receive about $85,000.)
Sotheby’s and Christie’s have reduced the number of lots in their major jewelry sales by 25% to 35% in the past two years because, even though these houses almost never own pieces they sell, they go all out to avoid “buy-ins” – lots that fail to find bidders.
“The auctions’ publicity power works against them if this happens,” explained one major dealer of fancy colored diamonds. “If pieces don’t sell, everybody knows it right away and they start to worry about the market.”

The Jonker V, a 25.27 ct GIA-graded D VS1 diamond, was cut in 1934 from the famed 726 ct Jonker Diamond, found in South Africa. © Christie, Manson & Woods LTD (2019)
Kadakia said prices for major colored stones seem less affected by the slowdown; top sales lots are usually fancy colored diamonds. The top lot of Christie’s May 15 Geneva sale was a 22.86 ct cushion shaped Burmese ruby that sold for $7.2 million, more than twice its pre-sale estimate, and a natural pearl sautoir (a long necklace that can suspend a pendant or tassel) that brought $5.8 million from a dealer.
The May 15 sale did feature two significant diamonds:

An 118 ct GIA-graded Fancy yellow diamond purchased for $7.1 million (twice the estimate) by Siba Corp., a New York-based dealer of major gemstones, in honor of its founder Sam Abram who had passed away shortly before the sale
The Jonker V, a 25.27 ct GIA-graded D VS1 diamond cut in 1934 from the famed 726 ct Jonker Diamond, found in South Africa, which achieved its estimate of $3 million

One-of-a-Kind Pieces and Prices
But even when prices in general are softening, truly one-of-a-kind pieces will always command top-dollar because buyers know they will not likely see them again.
“A perfect case in point was the Wittelsbach blue diamond,” Kadakia said. “We sold that for a record $23.4 million in 2009 when the financial markets had crashed.”

The Catherine emerald, mined in Colombia over 250 years ago, sold for $4.3, nearly $1 million above its high estimate. The emerald, originally a 107 ct square cut, was acquired by Catherine the Great, the Russian monarch, around 1790 and passed through Russian royalty until 1920. The gem was recut in 1954 to remove inclusions.  Photo Russell Shor/GIA
The most publicized lot of Christie’s May 15 auction was surely one-of-a-kind: The Imperial Emerald of Grand Duchess Vladimir of Russia, which originally belonged to empress Catherine the Great.
The emerald’s rich history started when it was acquired as a 107.67 ct square cut by Catherine the Great toward the end of the 18th century. It passed through Russian royalty after her death until Cartier purchased it in 1927. Cartier had the emerald recut into a pear shape of 75.63 cts to eliminate most of the fissures and inclusions and then sold it to John D. Rockefeller Jr. in 1954.
Valuing the gem was difficult because of its provenance, Kadakia said.
“We met with the trade, as we often do, and they asked us to list it without adding its history to the price.”
Christie’s experts listed the pre-sale estimate of $2.3 million to $3.5 million in the catalog.
“If we’d gotten that, then it we could say we achieved the value of the emerald itself. Anything higher would be the add-on for its history,” Kakadia noted.
When the bidding ended, an anonymous private buyer paid $4.3 million for the emerald, adding about $1 million for the history.

The 19 ct Fancy Light pink Le Grand Mazarin diamond was presented to French King Louis XIV in 1661 by Cardinal Mazarin, passed through a succession of French monarchs and, later, emperor Napoleon Bonaparte. © Christie, Manson & Woods LTD (2017)
Two years ago, Christie’s added $1 million to the $4 million pre-sale estimate of the 19 ct Fancy Light pink Le Grand Mazarin diamond presented to French King Louis XIV in 1661 by Cardinal Mazarin. It was then passed through a succession of French monarchs and, later, emperor Napoleon Bonaparte.
In Kadakia’s words at the time “it was the diamond with the most prestigious and historic provenance still in private hands.” The diamond, which was offered at a November 2017 sale, had been sold in 1887 at the auction of the French crown jewels and was sold through private collections until resurfacing for this auction.
“In the end, the stone sold for almost $15 million – an $11 million premium because of its history,” he said. Source: GIA @topic:10


Title: Fluorite Sphere with Phosphorescent Coating Abstract: Figure 1. This large fluorite sphere proved to be coated with a fine grained phosphorescent powder and a colorless plastic. Photos by Don Mengason.

              A large green 2,685 ct, 120 mm sphere was recently examined in the Carlsbad lab. The sphere displayed an unusual phosphorescent reaction when exposed to a strong illumination source (figure 1). These phosphorescent stones are commonly referred to by the misnomer “night glowing pearl.”

The sphere was warm to the touch. Microscopic examination revealed a colorless plastic coating, readily identifiable by the numerous trapped gas bubbles trapped within (figure 2, top). Upon further inspection, a subsurface granular material that contributed both a very subtle green component to the overall bodycolor of the sphere was also observed (figure 2, bottom). The granular material was also responsible for the material’s phosphorescence. It was apparent from these observations that the colorless coating was used to adhere the fine-grained powder to the surface of the sphere. The coating acted as an enhancement, contributing a near-vitreous luster to the finished sphere. The stone also contained numerous cleavage cracks oriented in numerous unrelated directions, and fractures along grain boundaries indicative of a crystalline aggregate material. Because the fine-grained powder was coated with polymer, we were unable to analyze it for identification; however, the appearance is consistent with that of a strontium aluminate material that has been previously reported to coat “night glowing pearls” (Spring 2005 Lab Notes, pp. 46–47).

	Figure 2. Gas bubbles were trapped in the colorless plastic coating of this “night glowing pearl” (top) and a granular material underneath the colorless coating was the source of the phosphorescence (bottom). Photomicrographs by Nathan Renfro; field of view 3.55 mm.
Due to the plastic coating, a refractive index measurement of the substrate material was not possible. Raman spectroscopy positively identified the substrate material as fluorite, which was consistent with the microscopic appearance.

While night glowing pearls have been previously reported, this example was particularly unique because of its large size and the fact that the phosphorescent reaction was easily induced by visible light. It was also unusual that the phosphorescent material was nearly invisible to the naked eye, creating the appearance of a normal, uncoated fluorite sphere. Source: GIA @topic:2


Title: Coated Pink Synthetic Moissanite Abstract: Figure 1. This 0.41 ct pink stone was revealed to be a coated synthetic moissanite. Photo by Aurélien Delaunay.

The French Gemmological Laboratory (LFG) recently received a 0.41 ct pink stone resembling a pink diamond (figure 1) for identification. The surface of the stone showed numerous patches (figure 2), casting doubts about the natural origin of its color.

Figure 2. Metallic flakes on the surface raised questions about the origin of the pink color. Photomicrograph by Aurélien Delaunay; field of view approximately 1.8 mm.

Figure 3. Doubling of the edges, observed near the crown in this synthetic moissanite. Photomicrograph by Aurélien Delaunay; field of view approximately 3.4 mm.
Under the microscope, these flakes showed metallic luster. Furthermore, the pink color appeared concentrated at the surface. Some unevenness in the color was observed due to scratches of this film. When observed through the crown, the gem showed a clear doubling of its edges, indicating an anisotropic material. These observations confirmed the client’s doubts that the gem was a pink diamond (figure 3).
The sample was analyzed using infrared, UV-visible, and Raman spectrometers. All the spectra collected indicated a synthetic moissanite coated with a colored film. Chemical study of this film acquired with an EDXRF spectrometer revealed that iron and titanium were responsible for the color of the calcium-rich film.
This is the first example the LFG has seen of synthetic moissanite coated with a thin colored film. This type of treatment is not rare with topaz, quartz, diamond, or tanzanite. Gemologists must remain vigilant because this treatment can be performed on all gems, natural or synthetic. Source: GIA @topic:4