Title: JCK Las Vegas 2018: Demand Improves, But Attendance Declines Abstract: Business at the JCK Las Vegas show met expectations this year, though buyers remained somewhat cautious. Photo courtesy of JCK.

Demand at the June 1-4 JCK Las Vegas show met the expectations of the trade, despite declining attendance.

Jewelry designers, manufacturers and diamond dealers, who comprise the majority of exhibitors at the show, generally saw steady, if still somewhat cautious, business. But most of the show talk concerned De Beers’ newly announced synthetic diamond jewelry collection, Lightbox.

Finished jewelry exhibitors at the Mandalay Bay venue reported good orders – slightly better than last year for a number of them – but added that the show is always more about meeting, greeting and making new contacts than it is about writing business.

“Buyers looking for important pieces don’t usually place their orders here, but they come by and we talk with them,” said a designer in the Luxury Pavilion. “All the business is done later.”

Manufacturers with more commercial lines said all of their products are available for order online, so the show has become more of a place to listen to client concerns and take suggestions.

More and more jewelry manufacturers have been producing designs at multiple price points in the past few years. That trend accelerated this year, to the point where some lines offer a combination of rock crystal and manufactured crystal glass with gemstones set in vermeil and sterling silver, instead of 14k and 18k gold or platinum. Jewelry designs seen at the show trended toward thin swirling lines and many mixed precious and non-precious materials to maintain attractive prices.

Female self-purchase has become a very important niche for jewelry makers, so many are creating lines in the $500-$1,000 price range to appeal to women who might buy jewelry on an impulse or put fine jewelry in a category competitive with other accessories.

“Women have no problem spending $750 or $1,000 for a designer handbag,” said one exhibitor. “We need to have a lot of fashion-oriented fine jewelry to compete in that space.”

Attendance at the JCK Show was reportedly down from recent years. Photo courtesy of JCK
The story was similar at the Couture Show, which ran concurrently with the JCK show, where the emphasis is on designer jewelry shown by many of the best-known names. Diamond dealers at the show reported steady demand, but found cautious retailers.

“The major chains were here, and independents. Most were just buying what they needed in the short term and larger goods (generally 3 carats-plus) only against customer calls,” said one exhibitor.

There was interest in higher-end fancy pink and blue colored diamonds, but supplies were few and calls were limited to stones under a half carat.

Colored stone demand at the American Gem Trade Association show was generally slow throughout the week. Dealers reported that buyers were looking for unheated ruby and sapphire, fancy color sapphire and some smaller stones for color accents.

While the official buyer count was not released by the end of the shows, most exhibitors believed it was significantly down from past Vegas shows. The number of U.S. retail jewelers has declined by some 2,000 in the past three years, according to Jewelers Board of Trade figures, and international buyers, who used to comprise a significant portion of the show’s attendance, have other choices, including a greatly expanded Hong Kong show.

In addition, exhibitors noted that many clients order online, skipping the shows altogether. Source: GIA @topic:8


Title: ‘Perfect Storms’ Cloud BaselWorld Business Abstract: The BaselWorld show attracts tens of thousands of visitors each year to see the new offerings from leading watch, jewelry and gem companies. Photo by Russell Shor/GIA

                      The world’s turmoil has begun to catch up with the superrich, who comprise most of the demand for the top gemstones, diamonds and designer jewelry pieces offered at BaselWorld 2015.

On display in the gemstone hall: several 200 carat (ct.) plus Sri Lankan sapphires; a stunning necklace fashioned from 30 fancy Vivid Pink diamonds and 23 fancy Vivid Blue diamonds, all ranging from 0.75 ct. to 0.90 ct.; a collection of nine D color Type IIa diamonds ranging from 16 ct. to 41 cts.; and many designer collections featuring top Burmese rubies, Colombian emeralds and collection color diamonds.

In the past, many of these rarified goods would find buyers at BaselWorld, typically a crossroads for the global wealthy, many from Russia, the Middle East and China. However, the Russian ruble has lost 40% of its value since last year’s show; oil prices have nosedived; the Chinese economy is showing signs of strain; and the Euro has weakened about 30% against the Swiss Franc and U.S. Dollar, raising the prices of already costly items even higher.

“This ‘perfect storm’ has conspired to reduce demand, especially for the buyers who are looking to acquire gems for investment,” said one exhibitor. “Their buying power is down by a considerable percentage, while their costs have gone up just as much.”

Few dealers were willing to make concessions on these high-end items because they believe demand will return once these issues stabilize and prices will resume rising.

The market for “normal” pieces, especially diamonds, was beset with problems of its own. Dealers at this show, and the nearby Diamond Show run by Martin Rapaport, noted that credit to the diamond industry continues to tighten − by some estimates there is a $3 billion shortfall in the amount of funds available to the industry from what it currently owes to banks.

Banks also have forced diamond manufacturers to sharply curtail or end the memo programs, which they traditionally used to conduct a majority of their business with retailers, especially in the U.S. With rough prices still higher than comparable polished for many sizes and qualities of goods, manufacturers are unable to build up cash reserves to compensate for the diminished credit.  And, finally, the banks themselves are under strong regulatory pressure to restrict credit to clients who, in their opinion, cannot meet transparent dealing standards.

Another dealer also used the phrase “perfect storm” to describe this confluence of events.

There is some good news: colored gemstones. Bold colors are coming into fashion and demand for emerald, peridot, sapphire and tanzanite pieces, as well as tutti-fruitti styles, was quite strong.

BaselWorld is traditionally the showcase for the world’s luxury watch industry and, as usual, tourist crowds flocked to see the new offerings from brands like Hublot, Breitling, Tissot and jewelers like Graff and Winston, but demand also slowed from last year. The Federation of the Swiss Watch Industry reported that sales of luxury watches made in that country increased only 1.9% last year to CHF 22.2 billion, with declines in all major markets except the U.S. and Japan. Source: GIA @topic:8


Title: First Look at 2014 Season: Uneven Demand Abstract: The world is watching the U.S. retail market as the economy rebounds and the U.S. dollar gets stronger. Photo by GIA

                      Diamond and jewelry demand in the U.S. rose an estimated 3% to 4% this past holiday season, but business was uneven.

Upscale jewelers did well in general, but large chain stores reported slower than expected sales. Business at high-end, well-established independents was strong, according to a Centurion survey. Ninety percent of the stores surveyed reported that sales were up for the year, with nearly half noting increases of 10% or more. For the season, 41% saw double digit increases, while another 20.6% found business up between 6% and 10%. Nearly 11% reported that sales were down for Christmas.

Anecdotally, business among middle market retailers seemed mixed, with many reporting down-trading in quality and a lot of demand shifting to silver and bead-type merchandise.

Among the chains that reported, Tiffany & Co.’s U.S. same store sales declined by 1%. The company’s European operations saw a 4% increase in same store sales (most likely from an increase in Asian tourists, because the local economies are not doing well), while Japan plunged 8% (13% in Yen terms). Sales in China and Singapore increased 7%.

Tiffany chairman Michael Kowalski called the results “disappointing” in a press release and noted that the rising U.S. dollar will cause “headwinds” for the company’s international business.

Signet Group/Zales was the first major retail jeweler to post seasonal figures, noting that same-store seasonal U.S. sales were up 2.5%, about half of the previous years’ growth. Zales, acquired by Sterling in 2014, posted a 3.5% increase in same store sales, which had been treading water for some years before the acquisition. Reading the statement, it appears that Zales’ holiday business was buoyed significantly through expanding its online channels. Signet Group/Zales noted that its combined ecommerce sales increased 90% for the season, but only by 20% when excluding the Zales division.

In China, business is reported very cautious heading into the Chinese New Year, when many workers receive substantial bonuses. Retail inventories of diamonds and gold jewelry remain high, while sales, though increasing, have continued to taper off from the heady growth years.

Chow Tai Fook reported that its same store sales fell 18% compared to the final quarter of 2013, and gem-set jewelry sales fell 12%. While the declines were most pronounced in Hong Kong and Macau, the company noted that high-end jewelry sales were weak overall. The company also noted that comparisons with 2013 were “difficult” because that year was marked by a rush for gold products after the metal price crashed.

Diamond demand was apparently not sufficient enough this past holiday season to cause a restocking rush that would enable the world’s diamond industry to escape the profit and credit squeeze that plagued it last year. Polished prices continue to soften while rough remains expensive.

Accordingly, De Beers will reportedly reinstate the provision to allow its sight clients to defer purchase of up to 25% of their allocations. In addition, the Jan. 19-23 sight may see small price reductions (De Beers calls them “adjustments”) for categories of rough diamonds.

Prices at De Beers’ sights, which still comprise the single largest source of rough diamonds, have not declined. And Alrosa, which produces about one-third of the world’s diamonds by volume, is under severe pressure to raise prices after the collapse of the rouble and the extremely significant loss in oil revenues for Russia’s treasury.

Because their own costs are rising, producers have resisted reducing prices that have left diamond manufacturers in an extreme profit squeeze at a time when the leading industry banks have severely cut their credit facilities. This has been well-reported for more than a year and the situation shows no sign of improving in 2015.

De Beers CEO Philippe Mellier, addressing U.S. jewelers in New York last week, said the rough/polished price squeeze will improve when polished and rough supplies move into balance.

Moving into 2015, much of the diamond and gemstone world will refocus on the U.S. market because of the gathering economic rebound, and the strengthening U.S. dollar, which raises the cost of most gemstones (except cultured pearls and jade) in other markets.

Goods priced in dollars will grow more expensive outside the U.S. (Hong Kong and China base their currencies, in part, on the dollar, so they fluctuate less), but the Euro and Yen have lost 20% in value, thus raising prices for diamonds and gold by that much in those markets. In addition, the high U.S. dollar may attract more overseas gemstone sellers to the Tucson shows as U.S. buying power grows. Source: GIA @topic:8


Title: Industry Analysis: Confidence Returns to Early Shows Abstract: Signs of confidence in the world diamond and jewelry markets have sprung at key trade shows, despite the continued uncertainty in the world economy.

The late January Vicenza show saw strong international buying as Italian designers, who previously mainly focused on high-end pieces, tried to broaden their appeal with colorful, fashionable pieces made with attractive, but lower cost, gemstones set in low-karat gold or alternate metals. This move from high-karat gold coincided with a renewed influx of buyers from around the world.

In the U.S., the Centurion Show in Scottsdale, Arizona, which focused primarily on high-end independent jewelers, saw strong buying across the board, especially for distinctive designer pieces and higher quality diamonds and gemstones. Buying at the various Tucson gem shows was also much stronger than expected, especially because traffic appeared to be down from previous years. Prices for top gems – such as unheated ruby and sapphire, and Colombian emerald – were still extremely strong. Even attractive lower-cost stones saw substantial increases from the previous year. According to attendee reports, dealers attributed the higher prices to the strong increase in demand from Asia.

This renewed confidence coincides with a report from the Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development (OECD) that noted firming economic growth in key markets such as the U.S. and Japan. The OECD forecasts, however, that China and India may see “growth below [the] trend” of past years. Growth in gem and jewelry sales in China has been spotty, largely confined to so-called “third-tier” cities (medium-sized inland cities underserved by retailers) in the past year.

Blue Nile’s numbers also give reason for optimism. The company’s engagement ring sales jumped 31% during the final quarter of 2012 compared to the previous year. Its quarterly sales of $136.1 million were the highest since 2007, before the world economic crisis hit. The company reported that its non-bridal diamond sales were below expectations because of a decline in discretionary spending this past season. To address this, CEO Harvey Kanter noted that the company would offer more classically designed pieces in place of very trendy ones.

Richemont, parent company of Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, cited the China slowdown as the reason for its slow sales in Asia for the final quarter of 2012. The company said fourth quarter sales in that region were flat compared to a 5% increase in North America. Richemont also noted that the uncertain economy of China made it difficult to forecast the state of business this year.

DIAMONDS: The diamond industry is awaiting De Beers’ February sight (Feb. 25-28). The general sentiment is for a relatively small sight because, while the firming world economy may help in the long run, diamond manufacturers still face liquidity issues as banks continue to tighten credit lines. The January sight of $450 million was smaller than expected, and the trade welcomed the stable prices. De Beers, and indeed other diamond producers, however, are under enormous pressure to increase revenues by raising prices.

Anglo American Corp., De Beers’ parent company, is seeking to raise revenue after several of its acquisitions ran into difficulty (primarily the Minas Rio project in Brazil) and in the face of more aggressive wage and benefit demands from labor unions. De Beers also encountered costly production problems at its largest mine, Jwaneng, last year.

Alrosa, the world’s second largest diamond producer by value, is engaged in costly mine redevelopment projects and appears to be moving to fill the supply gaps left by De Beers’ production problems. Reports from Antwerp say Alrosa has begun to sell rough in large quantities at prices comparable to De Beers.

Other producers, including BHP Billiton and Rio Tinto, are trying to boost revenues for the possible sale of their diamond operations. Source: GIA @topic:8


Title: Summer 1994 G&G Book Reviews Abstract: “The Professional's Guide to Jewelry Insurance Appraising”
By Patti J. Geolat, C. Van Northrup, and David Federman, 167 pp., illus., Vance Publishing Corp., Lincolnshire, IL, 1994. US$95.00

“Metalwork in the Arts And Crafts Tradition”
By Elyse Zorn Karlin, 272 pp., illus., publ. by Schiffer Publishing, Atglen, PA, 1993. US$69.95

“The Last Empire: De Beers, Diamonds, and the World”
By Stefan Kanfer, 409 pp., illus., publ. by Farrar, Straus & Giroux, New York, 1993. US$25.00

To view the full section, download the PDF above. Source: GIA @topic:6


Title: Spring 1994 G&G Book Reviews Abstract: “Gemstone and Chemicals: How to Create Color and Inclusions”
By George W. Fischer, Ph.D., 74 pp., illus., publ. by the author, Shelton, WA, 1991. US$24.00

“The Properties of Natural and Synthetic Diamond”
Edited by John E. Field, 710 pp., illus., publ. by Academic Press, London, England, 1992. US$195.00

“Mineral Reference Manual”
By Ernest H. Nickel and Monte C. Nichols, 250 pp., illus., publ. by Van Nostrand Reinhold, New York, 1991. US$18.95

“A Special Report from JPR on the Bold Retro 1940s Jewelry”
Edited by Nina Woolford, introduction by Lael Hagan, 117 pp., illus., publ. by JPR, Nina Woolford, and Gail Levine, Rockville, VA, 1992, US$35.00.

To view the full section, download the PDF above. Source: GIA @topic:7


Title: Spring 2012 G&G Book Reviews Abstract: “Set in Style: The Jewelry of Van Cleef & Arpels”
By Sarah D. Coffin, with contributions by Suzy Menkes and Ruth Peltason, 288 pp., illus., publ. by the Smithsonian Cooper-Hewitt National Design Museum [www.cooperhewitt.org],
New York, 2011. $55.00

“Paul Flato: Jeweler to the Stars”
By Elizabeth Irvine Bray, 223 pp.,illus., publ. by the Antique Collectors’ Club [www.antique collectorsclub.com], Woodbridge, Suffolk, UK, 2010. US$85.00

“Collector’s Guide to the Beryl Group”
By Robert J. Lauf, 93 pp., illus., publ. by Schiffer Publishing Ltd. [www.schifferbooks.com], Atglen, PA, 2011. $19.99

“Diamond Inclusions”
By Nizam Peters, 208 pp., illus., publ. by American Institute of Diamond Cutting Inc. [diamondschool.com], Deerfield Beach, FL, 2011. $135.00

To view the full section, download the PDF above. Source: GIA @topic:6


Title: Fall 2011 G&G Book Reviews Abstract: “Living Jewels: Masterpieces from Nature”
By Ruth Peltason, 224 pp., illus., publ. by The Vendome Press [www.vendomepress.com], New York, 2010. US$50.00

“The Extraordinary World of Diamonds”
By Nick Norman, 302 pp., illus., publ. by Janaca Media [janaca.co.za], Auckland Park, South Africa, 2010. R199.96

“The Workbench Guide to Jewelry Techniques”
By Anastasia Young, 320 pp., illus., publ. by Interweave Books [www.interweave.com], Loveland, CO, 2010. $34.95

“World Hallmarks, Volume I: Europe, 19th to 21st Centuries, 2nd ed.”
By William Whetstone, Danusia Niklewicz, and Lindy Matula, illus., publ. by Hallmark Research Institute [www.hallmarkresearch.com], San Francisco, 2010. $228

“Mineral Treasures of the World”
By The Geological Museum of China and The Collector’s Edge Minerals Inc., 125 pp., illus., publ. by Geological Publishing House [www.gph.com.cn], Beijing, 2010. ¥286

“Collectors Guide to Granite Pegmatites”
By Vandall T. King, 96 pp., illus., publ. by Schiffer Publishing [www.schifferbooks.com], Atglen, PA, 2010, US$19.95

“Collectors Guide to Silicate Crystal Structures”
By Robert J. Lauf, 96 pp., illus., publ. by Schiffer Publishing [www.schifferbooks.com], Atglen, PA, 2010, US$19.95

“Gems and Gemology in Pakistan”
By Tahseenullah Khan and Allah Bakhsh Kausar, 231 pp., illus., publ. by Geological Survey of Pakistan (www.gsp.gov.pk), Quetta, 2010, Rs. 3000

“Diamond Math”
By Kenneth A. Glasser, 451 pp., illus., publ. by Kenneth A. Glasser Co. [www.diamondmath. com], Las Vegas, 2010, US$75.00

To view the full section, download the PDF above. Source: GIA @topic:9


Title: Spring 2010 G&G Book Reviews Abstract: “Modern Jewellery Design: Past and Present”
By Reinhold Ludwig, 399 pp., hard-cover, illus., publ. by Arnoldsche Art Publishers [www.arnoldsche.com], Stuttgart, Germany, 2008. US$85.00

“Genuine Diamonds Found in Arkansas, 3rd Ed.”
By Glenn W. Worthington, 182 pp. with DVD supplement, illus., publ. by Mid-America Prospecting [www.diamondsinar.com], Murfreesboro, AR, 2009. US$35.00

“Cartier: Innovation Through the 20th Century”
By François Chaille, 271 pp., illus., publ. by Flammarion [www.editions.flammarion.com], Hoboken, NJ, 2007. US$65.00

“The Most Fabulous Jewels in the World: Graff”
By Meredith Etherington-Smith, 196 pp., illus., publ. by Cultureshock Media [www. cultureshockmedia.co.uk], London, 2007. £75.00

“Ruby, Sapphire, and Emerald Buying Guide, 3rd Ed.”
By Renee Newman, 187 pp., illus., publ. by International Jewelry Publications [www.reneenewman.com], Los Angeles, 2009, US$19.95

“Tables of Gemstone Identification”
By Birgit Günther, 256 pp., illus., publ. by Verlagsbuchhandlung Birgit Günther, Idar-Oberstein, Germany, 2009, €87.50

“Archaeomineralogy, 2nd Ed.”
By George (Rip) Rapp, 348 pp., illus., publ. by Springer-Verlag [www.springer.com], Berlin, 2009, €139.05

“Imperishable Beauty: Art Nouveau Jewelry”
By Yvonne Markowitz and Elyse Z. Karlin, 168 pp., illus., publ. by MFA Publications [www.mfapublications.org], Boston, MA, 2008, $45.00

To view the full section, download the PDF above. Source: GIA @topic:6


Title: Spring 1991 G&G Lab Notes Abstract: Inscribed Alexandrite
Chalcedony "Turquoise" Color
Highly Conductive Blue Diamond
"Emerald" with Unusual Color Zoning
More Banded Lapis Lazuli
Moonstone and Iolite Beads
Pearls from Baja California
Uncommon Cultured Pearls
Period Jewelry
Synthetic Ruby "Manufactured" Mineral Specimen
Flux Grown Ruby
Diffused Star Sapphire Update
Synthetic Sapphire with Triangular Inclusions

To view the full section, download the PDF above. Source: GIA @topic:1


Title: Honey Brown and Light Yellow Hydrogrossular: An Uncommon Jade Imitation Abstract: Figure 1. This light yellow carving (36 × 21 mm) and honey brown cabochon (15 × 12 mm) were identified as hydrogrossular. Photo by C. Kamemakanon; courtesy of Pachara Chonlakit.

Hydrogrossular or hydrogarnet is a translucent to opaque, water‐bearing calcium aluminum silicate garnet that commonly shows microcrystalline texture. It has a range of colors: brown, colorless, green, gray, pink, and yellow. The most popular is the shade of green known in the trade as “Transvaal jade” or “African jade.” Recently, the GIT-Gem Testing Laboratory (GIT-GTL) received two samples of hydrogrossular garnet for identification: the light yellow carved pendant (~70 ct, 36 × 21 mm) and the honey brown oval cabochon (8 ct, 15 × 12 mm) shown in figure 1. These are not typical colors used for jade imitations.

Figure 2. The microscopic observation of the honey brown hydrogrossular sample (left) revealed a fine-grained aggregate structure and color patches (white arrow), as compared with the coarse-grained aggregate structure of the brown jadeite sample (right). Oblique fiber-optic light. Photomicrographs by S. Promwongnan; field of view ~14 mm.
Standard gemological testing of the honey brown cabochon showed a specific gravity of ~3.66 and a refractive index of ~1.71, while those of the light yellow piece were undeterminable due to the nature of the mounting and carving. Nonetheless, both stones exhibited weak red fluorescence to long-wave UV and were inert to short-wave UV radiation, and displayed massive fine-grained aggregate structures with a translucent glassy appearance (figure 2, left), which was quite different from the coarse-grained aggregate structure of jadeite (figure 2, right).

Figure 3. Raman spectra of the honey brown and light yellow samples (blue and red lines, respectively) as compared to the reference spectrum of grossularite from the RRUFF database (green).
The identity was also confirmed by advanced testing. The Raman spectra of both samples showed dominant peaks at 374, 415, 548, 825, and 879 cm–1 and other smaller peaks at 246, 278, 508, 627, and 1005 cm–1 (figure 3) that matched perfectly with the spectrum of grossularite in the RRUFF reference database (R040065). Semi-quantitative chemical analyses of both stones revealed enriched contents of silica, calcium, and aluminum, which are closely consistent with grossularite, a calcium-aluminum garnet.

Figure 4. The infrared spectrum in reflection mode of the honey brown sample (blue line) exhibits characteristic reflectance peaks of hydrogrossular garnet at 616, 843, 866, and 954 cm–1, as compared with the spectrum of the hydrogrossular reference sample (purple line). The spectrum of the light yellow sample was not measured due to the nature of the carving.
The infrared spectrum of the honey brown cabochon sample, measured in reflection mode between 580–1400 cm–1, showed characteristic reflectance peaks at 616, 843, 866, and 954 cm–1 that are similar to the spectra of the hydrogrossular reference sample (figure 4) as well as green hydrogrossular (see Fall 2015 GNI, pp. 342–343). Note that the reflectance spectrum should be almost identical to the transmission spectrum of the sample, and the same features should be observed in both cases.

Figure 5. Infrared spectra by transmission mode of the honey brown and light yellow samples (blue and red lines, respectively) show very strong broad (water-related) absorption bands between ~3000–4000 cm–1 as compared with the spectra of a hydrogrossular reference sample (purple line) and grossular (tsavorite and hessonite) samples (green and black lines, respectively). The vertical dashed lines at 3598 and 3662 cm–1 mark water-related absorption bands of hydrogrossular (>5 wt.% H2O) based on Rossman and Aines (1991).
The infrared spectra of both samples, measured in transmission mode between 1000 and 5000 cm–1 and displayed in % transmittance, showed very strong broad absorption bands between ~3000–4000 cm–1 that are somewhat similar to the spectrum of our hydrogrossular reference sample (figure 5), and coincide with water-related absorption bands of hydrogrossular (>5 wt.% H2O) centered at 3598 and 3662 cm–1 (see G.R. Rossman and R.D. Aines, “The hydrous components in garnets: Grossular-hydrogrossular,” American Mineralogist, Vol. 76, No. 7-8, 1991, pp. 1153–1164). In comparison, our grossular (tsavorite and hessonite) samples reveal much narrower absorption bands between 3500–3700 cm–1 (figure 5). Thus, the presence of very strong broad (water-related) absorption bands has confirmed that both stones submitted for investigation were indeed hydrogrossular.
In summary, the gemological properties, Raman spectra, and chemical compositions of the light yellow and honey brown samples are consistent with those of grossular garnet. However, the infrared spectra showing characteristic transmission peaks of hydrogrossular at 616, 843, 866, and 954 cm–1 and very strong occurrence of structural water (i.e., significant OH replacing Si in tetrahedral sites) have confirmed that these two stones are indeed hydrogrossular rather than grossular garnet. It is worth noting that one of the materials commonly used to imitate jade is fine-grained aggregate hydrogrossular garnet, not single-crystal garnet. Source: GIA @topic:13


Title: The Big Find: Celebrating 50 Years of Maine Tourmaline Abstract: Figure 1. These 12 tourmalines from The Big Find will be featured in one-of-a-kind jewelry pieces. Photos courtesy of the Maine Mineral & Gem Museum.
October 2022 will mark 50 years since North America’s largest and most significant unearthing of gem-quality tourmaline. The astounding 1972 discovery, known as “The Big Find,” unveiled vast pockets of tourmaline of every color at an abandoned mine near the top of Plumbago Mountain in Newry, Maine. Yielding more than a ton of tourmaline rough from 1972 to 1974, The Big Find reawakened gem mining in the state of Maine. To celebrate the 50th anniversary of this historic discovery, the newly opened Maine Mineral & Gem Museum has big plans underway.
The Big Find: A Legend Continues began last year when the museum sought jewelry designers from across the country to create jewelry using 12 stones from the 1972 find, ranging in weight from 9.78 to 49.30 ct (figure 1). Twelve designers selected by jury are now at work crafting one-of-a-kind pieces to be presented on October 8, 2022, at a runway extravaganza in Newry. Event and ticket information can be found at https://mainemineralmuseum.org/the-big-find/.

Figure 2. Tourmaline bears on a frosted quartz base, carved by Gerhard Becker using tourmaline from The Big Find in Newry, Maine. Gifted to GIA by John Staver and currently on loan to the Maine Mineral & Gem Museum. (See more tourmaline carvings from GIA’s collection at www.gia.edu/gia-museum-tourmaline-carvings.) Photo by Orasa Weldon.
The museum is also commemorating the anniversary with special tourmaline exhibits and guest lectures all year, including various Maine tourmaline carvings on loan from the GIA Museum (figure 2). After the event, all 12 pieces of tourmaline jewelry will be on display at the Maine Mineral & Gem Museum and then at the 2023 Tucson Gem & Mineral Show before being auctioned off to raise money for the museum. Source: GIA @topic:7


Title: GIA Alumni Collective Abstract: The new GIA Alumni Collective offers a robust educational and networking platform for GIA graduates worldwide.
GIA’s alumni association has a new name, a fresh look, and up-to-date features. With a mission to connect GIA graduates around the world, provide opportunities for continuing education, and foster networking throughout the gem and jewelry industry, the GIA Alumni Collective (see above) builds on the association’s long history with updates that better reflect the creativity, technical savvy, entrepreneurship, and vitality of GIA’s alumni.
After successfully completing a GIA program or course, alumni can register for the Collective and stay informed about all the resources available to them by visiting the new GIA Alumni Collective website. The new online community, collective.gia.edu, serves as a “central hub” where members can add their profile to the directory, engage and connect directly with other members and global chapters, join “virtual” chapters, register to attend professional events, access more than 20 Continuing Education seminars at a 10% discount, and more.
“The new GIA Alumni Collective website and online community is a reflection of our diverse alumni network. The collaboration with chapter leaders and other members brings new energy and a modern look that connects our global network and provides a space to experience the future of gems and jewelry,” says Cathryn Ramirez, executive director of alumni development and continuing education at GIA.
GIA has more than 155,000 active alumni in 58 chapters spanning the globe—33 in the Americas, 16 in Asia, and three apiece in Europe, the Middle East, and Africa. While chapters host their own meetings and events, chapters often co-host to provide additional networking opportunities. The GIA Alumni Collective hosts annual events at the AGTA Tucson and JCK Las Vegas trade shows where hundreds of alumni from all over the world meet up with longtime friends and colleagues and foster new relationships. Source: GIA @topic:11


Title: Virtual Report on the Industry in 2021 Abstract: Snapshots of an industry dealing with a global pandemic. A starkly quiet Jewelry Trade Center in Bangkok (top row) and Chan Gems Building in Chanthaburi (middle right); temperature screening outside a Pranda facility on the outskirts of Bangkok (bottom left); and two glimpses of activity at the Hainan Expo in China. Photos by Jinting Yu, Shen Chen, and Sunny Jiang.

              As the major Tucson gem and mineral shows were all canceled in 2021 due to the pandemic, we decided to use our annual Tucson report space a bit differently this year. We wanted to capture how some of the vendors we normally visit have been weathering the situation and their thoughts about the impact on the trade along the entire supply chain. We wanted to find out how the pandemic has shaped their businesses over the past year and if they foresee permanent changes to the way business will be conducted in the future.

From our understanding going into these interviews, fine jewelry has actually been doing quite well during this time, as consumers who would normally spend money on travel have opted to spend those discretionary funds on luxury items, including jewelry. With the initial onset of the pandemic creating a full disruption to in-person sales, retail jewelry was hit hard in the spring. By summertime, however, sales had increased for many compared to the same period in 2019. This trend reemerged during the end-of-the-year holiday season. As discretionary travel is a strong competitor to fine jewelry, having people stuck at home benefited retail jewelry sales. Online jewelry sales appear to have benefited the most, increasing by about 50% over pre-pandemic times. To what extent these patterns will hold is uncertain. Another trend was the popularity of “Zoom-worthy” jewelry such as earrings and necklaces as online interactions with colleagues, friends, and family increased. To read more about some of the pandemic-related retail jewelry trends, see Victoria Gomelsky, “Even in a pandemic, fine jewelry is selling,” New York Times, December 3, 2020, https://www.nytimes.com/2020/12/03/fashion/jewelry-rising-sales-pandemic-.html.

Starting at the mines, activity was clearly affected by work stoppages and the inability of foreign buyers and traders to travel internationally. These situations were highly dependent on local restrictions, which were often different in neighboring countries. In East Africa and Asia, many mines temporarily stopped production to comply with regulations to avoid gatherings of people, while others produced plenty of material but initially had no foreign buyers to sell it to. Much rough trading went online, allowing the continued flow of some materials between miners and buyers with established relationships. This online presence also brought forth completely new relationships for miners and local traders who started dealing directly with downstream buyers, such as cutters and jewelers, who normally would have made purchases through other channels.

In many instances, cutting and jewelry manufacturing workshops were significantly impacted by the pandemic on three fronts: the disruption in the supply of new raw materials, the inability to work together in factories in light of social distancing policies, and (in some cases) difficulty in shipping goods across borders. However, some rough dealers and jewelers have been opening the vaults to work with gems saved for a rainy day such as this.

Gem markets have been significantly impacted, as here too social distancing policies and travel restrictions greatly reduced or eliminated the ability to gather and kept the international buyers who supply the cash necessary to keep trade moving away from these sites. Similarly, virtually all of the major trade shows globally were forced to cancel for the same reasons. Political unrest has also been impacting the movement of goods across borders, something we heard from several sources.

Stone dealers and jewelers in general reported a challenging time last spring, but reasonable to good sales from summer 2020 on. Many of them had to adapt to virtual interactions with suppliers and clients, some for the first time. However, several had already started building online presences, which were put to the test and rapidly expanded to accommodate this unusual year. Communication through WhatsApp and Zoom proved essential for many in continuing business both upstream and downstream. Vendors reported using social media such as Facebook and Instagram to keep clients updated on their activities. Even though it was clear that these vendors look forward to the return to big trade shows, they believe that the way business is conducted along the supply chain has likely been changed in some permanent ways by the recent forced reliance on doing business virtually.

We hope you enjoy our report showing the mixture of positive and negative trends over this unprecedented past year. We look forward to seeing everyone in person in Tucson next year. The 2022 Tucson shows will also bring us the opportunity to visit the Alfie Norville Gem and Mineral Museum, scheduled to reopen in 2021, and its Somewhere in the Rainbow collection. These are also featured in our report. Source: GIA @topic:8


Title: Portable Instruments and Tips on Practical Gemology in the Field Abstract: Buying gems or jewelry can be challenging even when one has access to a fully equipped lab. However, most purchases are actually made in environments that make it difficult to carry anything more than a loupe, a flashlight, and a pair of tweezers. Practice with these and the additional portable gem instruments described in this article will enable the buyer to develop the keen senses needed to better ascertain the identity and quality of the material being considered. Practical tips that may be applied in the field are also included in each section. Common sense must dictate how a clue is applied, and some tests will merely help narrow down the possibilities. Source: GIA @topic:7


Title: GIA’s Knowledge Sessions: A New Way to Share Gemological Information Abstract: Robert Weldon talked about this photo during the “Behind the Scenes: Untold Stories from GIA Field Gemology Expeditions” webinar. The photograph shows a model of Campbell Bridges famous tree-house — glowing with light at night — in Kenya. The original tree house, near Tsavo National Park, is the place where he discovered green garnet or tsavorite. Photo by Robert Weldon

Video calls and webinars have taken the world by storm ever since the coronavirus sent everyone home for safety. They are an easy way to stay connected with family and friends and many — including GIA — are using them to share knowledge.

GIA’s Knowledge Sessions began in early April and since then, they have covered a variety of gemological research topics, including pearls, laboratory-grown diamonds, field gemology and jade auctions. The hour-long sessions provide an opportunity for researchers and subject matter experts to stay connected with the other researchers, retailers, designers and other people who are excited to learn more about the world of gems and the jewelry industry, in a friendly, more casual format.

“Our researchers normally speak at seminars and conferences, but now that we can’t travel as a result of the pandemic, we saw there was another way to connect with the research community to share our information,” says Kellie Giordano, GIA senior manager of content marketing and the moderator of the web sessions. “Our researchers are so talented and great at communicating all of this complex research in an accessible way. The webinars evolved into a resource for the entire gem and jewelry industry to understand how they might apply the research GIA is doing every single day into their work — as a retailer, wholesaler or whatever stage of the supply chain they are in.”

Dr. Mike Breeding, who presented “Laboratory-Grown Diamonds: Updates and Identification,” says the webinars speak to GIA’s mission to protect the public and giving them the information they need to thrive in their area of interest.

“Many trade members can’t afford the time or money to attend conferences or pay for on-campus seminars, so this is a fantastic mechanism for us to get important information to them to help in their daily challenges in the gem industry,” he says. “People are already excited about gems, but these types of informative webinars really give them even more to be excited about and empowers them with knowledge.”

The number of people who sign up and attend each session is surprising, but gratifying, to the presenters. To-date, there have been more than 48,000 registrants and more than 21,000 attendees in 21 presentations and more than 65,000 views (with a total of more than 10,000 hours watched) on YouTube, where all of the sessions are posted.

“The webinars are a fantastic way to reach all corners of the globe, even if someone has to get up super-early, or stay up super-late to see it,” said Robert Weldon, director of the Richard T. Liddicoat Library and Information Center, who presented “Behind the Scenes: Untold Stories from GIA Field Gemology Expeditions,” with Wim Vertriest, supervisor of field gemology and Dr. Aaron Palke, senior manager of research. “As evidenced on several of the talks, thousands of people have tuned in at one time.”

The webinars are held weekly in English, but several have been presented in Mandarin, such as “An Exclusive View of the World’s Biggest Jade Auction,” by Dr. Tao Hsu, director of global development, “The Fascinating World of Pearls and Shells,” by Dr. Chunhui Zhou, manager of pearl identification, “Laboratory-Grown Diamonds from China,” by Dr. Wuyi Wang, vice president of research and development, and “Advanced Analytical Techniques,” by Ziyin Sun, research associate.

Wang said the webinars are an effective way to share gemological research findings with a large number of people at a time. “It is impossible to attract this many people to attend any on-site presentation,” he says. “We should sustain this platform.”

A New Format for a New Gem and Jewelry World
GIA Knowledge Sessions cover a broad spectrum of topics, from some of the more popular gemstones — diamonds, pearls and rubies — to lesser-known aspects of gem exploration and research tools.
“We’re really looking to provide a wide range of topics. We have this wealth of knowledge and we want to use these webinars to deliver as much of it as we can,” Giordano says.

Presenting the information in a webinar format, as opposed to a conference setting, was a little strange for the researchers at first, but they quickly adjusted.
“I was pleasantly surprised at how easy it was to present the webinar,” Breeding says. “At first it was a bit weird to not see the people as I talked, but as it went on, it was very relaxed and easy to discuss the slides and information.”
Dr. Zhou says that as he sat alone in a room talking in front of the screen, he wondered what the audiences were doing at the moment in different parts of the world, but that it was less stressful than presenting in person at a conference.
“It is a great way to share information and connect with the trade and public during this extraordinary period of time,” he says. “The technology advances make it easy for anybody to join from all over the world and they can even watch a recording after the talk.”
The benefits of an online presentation — no need to travel, watching from anywhere in the world and on-demand viewing — also include an easy-to-follow format for the presenter and the viewer.
“I enjoy the 45-50 minute talking time slot we get. This allows you to really tell a story, but at the same time forces you to bring structure to it. It’s always easier to see or listen to someone explain it thoroughly,” says Vertriest, who also presented “Rubies: Connecting Sources, Treatment and Science” and “Geology 101 for Gemologists: The Natural Processes that Form Colored Gemstones.”
“A good presentation takes you by the hand and leads you through all the challenging science that might appear overwhelming in written format,” he says. “Since presentations are very visual, the information can also be presented in a more intuitive way.”
It also enables the audience to ask questions through a chat feature during the presentation and at the end of it.
“I could see the questions pop up on the side as I went and it was difficult to not try to answer them immediately,” Breeding says. “I found myself remembering to include small details that I might have otherwise skipped because I knew someone was wondering about it.”
The questions also indicated that there were both insiders in the gem trade and general public listening to our talks, Chunhui says.
“It was also surprising to see the range of questions. Everyone has a different perspective and it is interesting to see what details people pick up on,” Smith says.
Nick Sturman, senior manager of identification, who presented the “Fascinating World of Pearls and Shells,” suggested that extra dialogue specific points can be raised on GIA's Gems & Gemology Facebook page. “So far that hasn't happened much but a few people have taken the opportunity to raise a point,” he says.
“I have been so pleasantly surprised by the participation,” Giordano says. “We get so many great, high-quality questions and there is so much curiosity around each topic.”
She said that post-webinar surveys indicate that 95% of participants agree or strongly agree that the topic was valuable, 95% rate the session as excellent or good, and 100% want to attend another GIA Knowledge Session.
Some of the anonymous comments from the survey:

 “I really appreciate GIA producing these webinars during the pandemic times, they’re interesting and keep us connected.

“It is truly amazing how the webinars help to connect the theoretical knowledge [that] is acquired during the self-study to a more practical approach. Already looking for the next one!”
“What really impressed me, along with the expertise, was the friendly, informal presentation. Fun!”

GIA’s Digital Transformation is Underway
“Knowledge Sessions are a great example of how we are using modern technology to connect with our GIA community,” says Mark Buntz, senior vice president and chief marketing officer. “We want to make it easy for researchers, students and alumni to access our expertise and spark an even greater interest in gems and jewelry around the world.”

Dr. Hsu agrees that webinars and other digital tools are an effective way to share many different type of information - not just that limited to gemological research. “Educational information and even retailer support type of information can all be shared this way,” she says.
She presented “GIA Research - Not Just for Scientists,” a behind-the-scenes look on how GIA designs its world-respected curriculum.

GIA is also making other outreach efforts online, including a GemFest on the “Geographic Origin Determination of Ruby,” which was presented in Japanese from Tokyo and the 115th Gemstone Gathering, a popular event in Thailand, on “Precision Cut: How, Why and When?” by Victor Tuzlukov, a well-known master lapidary artist.

Above all, says Dr. Evan Smith, who presented the first GIA Knowledge Session – “The Unique Story of Natural Diamond” — in early April, the webinars help showcase some of the things that distinguish GIA from other gem labs.

Dr. Evan Smith showed this image of a super-large faceted diamond in “The Unique Story of Natural Diamond” webinar. Photo by Ulrika D’Haenens-Johansson
“Some people may know GIA best as an issuer of certificates and accreditations, but its mission is much broader,” he says. “The Knowledge Sessions shed light on the diverse nature of work that goes on behind the scenes at GIA, and our commitment to re-investing into research and education.”
Go to GIA Knowledge Sessions to register for an upcoming webinar or watch one that has already been presented. Source: GIA @topic:9


Title: G&G Launches Facebook Group Abstract: The G&G Facebook group is a new community for all gem and jewelry enthusiasts.
On February 5, 2020, Gems & Gemology  launched a Facebook group dedicated to gemology and research published in the journal. The group has attracted jewelry professionals, researchers, students, and those with a general interest in gemology who want to share and expand their knowledge. With several dozen posts (see above), the G&G  Facebook group has become a dedicated forum for the discussion of inclusions, treatments, field gemology and gemstone mining, and identification of laboratory-grown or cultured gemstones, including identification challenge quizzes. Some of the most popular posts to date have featured stunning photomicrographs of gersdorffite inclusions in quartz, diamonds with octahedral stellate cloud inclusions, mysterious sapphires from the Andes Mountains in South America, and the use of Google Earth for research in field gemology. The enthusiastic base of more than 7,000 members hails from all parts of the globe.
To join, visit www.facebook.com/groups/giagemsgemology. Source: GIA @topic:7


Title: Top 10 Digital Reads from the GIA Library Abstract: Gem materials, such as this agate (a Chinese carving of Guanyin), Colombian emerald specimen, pearl, shell cameo, amethyst, garnet and turquoise, have excited global appeal for millennia. Books about gemstones, but also geology, mining techniques and international trade in gems, have long stimulated enthusiasts. Many are collected in GIA’s Cartier Rare Book Repository and Archives, which houses both the ancient and more modern writings about gemstones. A growing number of these books (treasures in and of themselves) are available to you — for free —through Internet Archive. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA.

Would you like to brush up on your Latin and read Pliny’s “Natural History,” the 17th-century book that is the foundation of ancient gemology? Peruse an 1817 copy of Sowerby’s “British Mineralogy” with your morning coffee? Or thumb through — virtually — an especially rare, 1925-26 catalog of Russian Romanov dynasty’s regalia and crown jewels?

These are just three of 650 digitized rare books from GIA’s Cartier Rare Book Repository and Archives that are available for free through the nonprofit digital library Internet Archive. This multi-year effort by librarians at GIA’s Richard T. Liddicoat (RTL) Gemological Library and Information Center to bring thousands of the rarest, most venerated books in gemology, mineralogy and jewelry into easy reach.

Many of the books are from the Sinkankas Library, which was acquired by GIA in 1988. John Sinkankas, a noted author and lapidary artist, and his wife Marjorie, spent more than 40 years collecting approximately 14,000 items, including virtually all of the major works related to the study of gems and jewelry.

“The GIA digital library is growing into a comprehensive collection of manuscripts and books that document centuries of history, art, science, gemology and mineralogy,” says Robert Weldon, director of the RTL Library. “Reflecting the many countries and languages that make up the international world of gems and jewelry, online archive is an excellent resource for gemologists and researchers — available at their fingertips, no matter where they are.”

TOP 10 DIGITIZED BOOKS
Here are some of the most notable books, as selected by the library staff:

Fersman, A.E. Russia’s Treasure of Diamonds and Precious Stones, 1925
	This rare catalog documents Russia’s regalia and crown jewels at the time of the overthrow of the tsarist regime in 1917. It includes jewels that date from the reign of Peter I (1689-1725) through Nicholas II (1894-1917), with 100 photographs of the Tsarist riches.

Kozminsky, Isidore. The Magic and Science of Jewels and Stones, 1922
	From ancient myth to modern science, this book is (from the preface) "…a sincere attempt…to blend modern science with the ancient and occult philosophy of the … stones of the earth.”  Sinkankas describes it in his Gemology: An Annotated Bibliography as "An outstanding work, comparable to Kunz’s Curious Lore in respect to authenticity & accuracy of information.”

Hendley, Thomas Holbein. Indian Jewellery, 1909
	This rare work is a collection describing the jewelry, costumes and gemstone terminology of the Indian provinces. Sinkankas calls it the “largest, most detailed, and lavishly illustrated monograph ever to appear on the subject.”

Vever, Henri. La Bijouterie Francaise au XIXe Siecle (1800-1900), 1908
	This three-volume work describes the history of French jewelry, including famous gems, persons and pieces. Sinkankas lauds it as “astonishingly detailed” and “remarkable for the numerous high quality photographic and other illustrations.”

Winter, Albert Andrew. A Course in Fundamental Principles of Designing and Engraving, 1915
	This 1915 instructional book from Winter’s School of Jewelry Engraving is a practical guide in basic engraving, which includes explanations on monogram design, letter formation, proper tools and techniques, types of metals, terminology and more. The explanations are accompanied by detailed illustrations and diagrams.

Tagore, Sourindro Mohun. Mani-mala: or, A Treatise On Gems, 1881
	In English and Sanskrit, Tagore’s two volume Mani-Málá includes both Eastern and Western sources of information on diamonds and colored stones, lore, jewelry, royal gems and more. Sinkankas calls it “one of the most remarkable and important works on gems ever published,” especially as a resource for the history of gemstones in Indian culture.

Kunz, George Frederick. The Curious Lore of Precious Stones, 1913
	This work is a significant and comprehensive assemblage of information on gemstone folklore and healing properties. Learn about the mystical properties that many — to this day — ascribe to gems.

Lacroix, Alfred. Mineralogie de la France et de Ses Colonies […], 1913
	Are you fascinated by minerology? Do you read French? This five-volume work “describes the minerals of France and its colonies. Sinkankas describes it as […] peer, being extremely thorough, neglecting no important aspect, and lavishly illustrated."

The Bishop Collection: Investigations and Studies in Jade, 1900
	A rare collection of articles on jade, commissioned by Heber Reginald Bishop to describe his collection of jade objects, which was donated to the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York in 1902.

Pliny, the Elder. C. Plynius Secundus De naturali hystoria diligentissime castigatus, 1496
	This 1496 Latin edition is the oldest book in GIA’s collection. Its 37 chapters are a compilation of all that he could discover about nature; the last five books cover metals and gems. As gemologist and author Sydney Ball explains, it was the foundation of all science until the Renaissance, and is one of the largest single works to have survived from the Roman Empire to the modern day.

Learn more about how GIA is digitizing its rare book collection. Source: GIA @topic:9


Title: Fossilized Drusy Shells – Tucson 2014 Abstract: Figure 1. A conglomerate of fossilized, drusy quartz-encrusted shells is shown in the host rock, along with several individual pieces that have been prepared for jewelry use. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA; courtesy of Indus Valley Commerce.

              Tarun Adlakha (Indus Valley Commerce, New Delhi) exhibited fossilized shells replaced by chalcedony and encrusted with drusy quartz (figure 1). The shells are originally from a rare left-hand coil variety of gastropod that lived between 50 and 100 million years ago, when the Indian subcontinent was submerged under the ocean. Recovered from a hill in the Dhar region of Madhya Pradesh state in central India (figure 2), they were hammered, chiseled, and carefully removed by hand from rock.

	Figure 2. These fossilized drusy shells were found in rocks on a hill in central India. Photo courtesy of Tarun Adlakha.
According to Adlakha, these shells were called Dakshinavarti in ancient Sanskrit. The Hindu, Buddhist, and Tibetan cultures revere the left-hand coil gastropods for their metaphysical powers. Adlakha has trademarked this fossilized material as Spiralite Gemshells for use in jewelry. Source: GIA @topic:5


Title: New Designs from Paula Crevoshay Abstract: Figure 1. In the “Queen Thai” bracelet, the contrast in orange color between the more intense Brazilian fire opal (left) and the Mexican fire opals leads the eye directly to the Brazilian stone. All of the opals are complemented by the green tsavorite. Photo by Eric Welch/GIA, courtesy of Paula Crevoshay.

	Paula Crevoshay came to Tucson with some new designs that once again showcase her unique talent.

	The “Queen Thai” bracelet (figure 1) contains five large freeform fire opals. Accompanying the opal are micro-pavé brilliant tsavorite accents and blue zircons connecting the bracelet sections. Four of the fire opals are from Mexico, and one is from Brazil. Crevoshay pointed out that the four Mexican fire opals have better transparency, while the Brazilian one has a more saturated orange color. All of them show some green and blue play-of-color, which complements the tsavorite and blue zircon accents. In return, the strong blue and green color of highly refractive tsavorite and zircon accentuates the opals’ play-of-color. The intense orange color of the Brazilian fire opal forms a dramatic contrast with the Mexican stones and adds another layer to draw viewers’ attention. The mounting of the bracelet follows the profile of the freeform opals, giving the jewelry its own personality.

	Paula Crevoshay

	Renowned jewelry designer Paula Crevoshay introduces four new pieces featuring her trademark use of contrasting and complimentary gem colors. In this video, she showcases two spectacular opal bracelets, and two fabulous brooches: a butterfly design featuring diamonds with sapphire and a beautifully textured elephant with mother-of-pearl tusks.

	Crevoshay expressed her love of nature in two new pieces from the collection. The “Swallowtail” butterfly (figure 2, left) combines yellow diamond, black diamond, blue Yogo sapphire, yellow sapphire, and red spinel. She informed us that this swallowtail is modeled specifically after those found in Montana, a state whose natural beauty and sapphires she admires. She noted that she always tries to find an excuse to involve Montana sapphire in her artworks. The various stones are mounted over a large surface area, which allows them to optically interact with each other. The colors of the stones accurately reproduce the colors on the wings of these butterflies. When people move the piece in their hands, it vividly reflects the whimsical look of the real butterfly. The elephant head in figure 2 (right) evokes Crevoshay’s memories of visiting an elephant orphanage in Sri Lanka. Captured in this pendant is the extinct East African forest elephant, which is smaller and less aggressive than most other species. A special texture was generated on the gold to depict the elephant’s skin. A sapphire and spinel headdress shows the royalty of this creature. The eyes are tsavorite, while the tasks are carved mother-of-pearl.

Figure 2. Left: The yellow diamond, black diamond, blue Yogo sapphire, yellow sapphire, and red spinel in this swallowtail brooch create a stunning color combination. Right: This brooch was inspired by a visit to an elephant orphanage in Sri Lanka, which adds an extra touch of humanity to the piece. Photos by Eric Welch/GIA, courtesy of Paula Crevoshay.

	Last but not least is the cuff bracelet featuring a large Australian boulder opal accented with sapphire (figure 3). To Crevoshay, “all opals are created by Monet,” since each is a striking blend of colors. The play-of-color pattern of this opal reminds viewer of a spectacular cityscape at night. There is a subtle red linear play-of-color across the middle of this piece. This long marquise-shaped boulder opal has blue as its deepest play-of-color, and Crevoshay selected the blue sapphire to go with it. According to color theory, blue is a color that recedes. The blue sapphire and the blue play-of-color seem to dominate the cuff bracelet but then recede to the background to allow the other colors such as the green and the red to take center stage.

Figure 3. The blue play-of-color from the boulder opal and the blue color from the sapphires dominate one’s initial impression of the cuff bracelet. Photo by Eric Welch/GIA, courtesy of Paula Crevoshay. Source: GIA @topic:9


Title: Coated Beryl Imitating Emerald Abstract: Figure 1. Left: The drilled green briolettes mounted in the pair of earrings submitted for identification. Right: Fluid inclusions, crystals, and two-phase inclusions proved the stones’ natural origin; field of view 2.6 mm. Photos by Lai Tai-An Gem Lab.
Two major issues related to emerald are origin determination and the presence and quantity of fillers. An emerald’s value depends in part on the quality of the stone and treatments applied, so examination with a gemological microscope is an essential part of any analysis.

A pair of earrings (figure 1, left) weighing a total of 84.06 grams was submitted to the Lai Tai-An Gem Lab for identification. The earrings consisted of numerous green drilled briolettes with a vitreous luster. The client, who claimed they were natural emeralds, granted permission to remove one piece to aid in identification. Testing gave a spot refractive index of 1.57, a specific gravity of 2.67, and an inert reaction to both short-wave and long-wave UV, consistent with beryl. Microscopic observation revealed liquid, crystal, and two-phase inclusions (figure 1, right). Infrared and Raman spectroscopy indicated that the loose stone, along with the similar stones still in the earrings, were beryl. Epoxy peaks at 3056, 3037, 2964, 2931, and 2872 cm–1 were obtained by FTIR spectroscopy (figure 2). However, the green color was unusual in that it appeared to be concentrated on the surface, which was confirmed by additional testing.

Figure 2. FTIR spectroscopy showed epoxy peaks at 3056, 3037, 2964, 2931, and 2872 cm–1.

Figure 3. Left: Magnification with diffused illumination clearly showed the concentrated green areas of the coating and the boundaries of the underlying host beryl. Photomicrograph by Lai Tai-An Gem Lab; field of view 4.4 mm. Right: An SEM image from the specimen. The area labeled A shows the coated layer on the surface, while B shows facet boundaries without coating.
Magnification with diffused illumination clearly showed concentrated patches of green color with “colorless” boundaries (figure 3, left), as often seen in diffusion-treated stones such as corundum. Further observation by scanning electron microscopy (SEM) indicated a coating on the faceted surface (figure 3, right). DiamondView imaging revealed the fluorescence reaction of the underlying host beryl where the coating had been worn away at the facet junctions: When exposed to the ultra-short-wave UV of the DiamondView, the “colorless” areas reacted with a strong orange fluorescence (figure 4). UV-Vis-NIR spectra revealed differences between the test stone and a reference emerald. While emerald normally exhibits Cr3+-associated main absorption bands at approximately 620 and 430 nm, the examined samples showed strong absorption bands at approximately 680 and 360 nm, as well as weaker bands at 620 and 430 nm (figure 5)

Figure 4. DiamondView imaging showed where the coating had been worn away at the facet junctions. The colorless areas reacted with a strong orange fluorescence after exposure to the short-wave UV radiation.

Figure 5. UV-Vis-NIR spectra show the differencesbetween a reference emerald, which exhibits significant Cr3+-associated main absorption bands at approximately 620 and 430 nm only (red trace), and the examined sample, which contains absorption bands at approximately 680 and 360 nm in addition to the 620 and 430 nm bands (green trace).
Coatings have been applied to various gemstones for decades, and most of the time they are easy to identify. Although this identification was not particularly challenging, it does show the importance of thoroughly examining jewelry in case treated stones have been incorporated into the design. Source: GIA @topic:3


Title: Gemstones and Sustainable Development Knowledge Hub Abstract: Figure 1. Gem cutters in Jaipur were issued masks, provided by AGTA, as part of the safety measures put in place after the Hub's assessment. Photo courtesy of Lynda Lawson.

In 2016, the Tiffany & Co. Foundation awarded the University of Delaware (UD) $350,000 over the course of two years to promote responsible practices in the colored gemstone supply chain. The grant recognizes a fine minerals collection held at the University’s Mineralogical Museum that was donated in large part by the DuPont family. Out of this effort, and under the directorship of natural resource governance specialist Professor Saleem H. Ali, grew the Gemstones and Sustainable Development Knowledge Hub (GemHub), a collaboration between UD, the University of Queensland, and the University of Lausanne. Gemologist Laurent Cartier has also been an instrumental part of this partnership. The GemHub’s goals are to perform research and to connect with initiatives identified by industry, academic, and mining communities as essential to the supply chain. The GemHub’s website, www.sustainablegemstones.org, is an excellent resource for those interested in learning about and buying sustainable and ethical stones. The areas addressed by the GemHub are colored stone mining and geology, processing and manufacturing (including cutting), gender analysis of supply chains, and economic development impact.
As of June 2018, the GemHub had launched two projects. The pilot project, initiated in Jaipur, India, in early 2018, is a study of the health issues associated with gemstone manufacturing and their solutions. This effort is in partnership with the American Gem Trade Association (AGTA) and Workplace Health Without Borders (WHWB). As part of this program, dust and silica were monitored and cost-effective best practices for improving conditions were evaluated. From these observations, educational materials on dust and silica exposure prevention and other safety precautions, such as the distribution of face masks (figure 1) were created. Noise levels have also been measured, and information on hearing loss, along with disposable hearing protection, have been disseminated. Future steps will involve measuring whether the methods that have been implemented (wetting to minimize dust, wet mopping of cutting shops) are adequate or if further measures must be taken.

Figure 2. The women miners in Madagascar use the gem testing kit, which includes tweezers, a bowl, a loupe, a dichroscope, and a scoop. Photo courtesy of Lynda Lawson.
The second project is a continuation of the work performed by Lynda Lawson, one of the GemHub’s research associates, and focuses on artisanal miner education in Madagascar. Women miners in the region of Atsimo Andrefana were taught field gemology essentials and provided with tools for identification (figure 2), even learning to make and use a simple dichroscope. The women were also taught basic lapidary skills, allowing them to make their own jewelry for sale. In the most recent training, the miners have been taught to identify characteristics of stones that are easily confused, such as topaz and quartz; women who had taken previous courses acted as peer coaches. The women have maintained their skills and tools, and the project has been extended through the end of 2018. Future steps will include working with the women to find more profitable markets for the small stones they find (primarily pink, purple, and orange sapphires).
Furthering the GemHub’s mission, the Unidel Foundation awarded a grant to the University of Delaware to develop the “Minerals, Materials and Society,” an interdisciplinary graduate certificate program due to launch at UD in 2020. The program, which will be offered online and on campus, will be designed for the multiple sectors that need to understand and address supply chain issues, including members of the jewelry industry along with geologists, economists, and government employees. The program’s signature project will be the Jewelry Development Impact Index (JDI), a project first discussed at the 2017 Jewelry Industry Summit in Tucson, Arizona and later championed by the U.S. Department of State. The JDI’s goal is to measure the gem and jewelry industry’s impact on the economic and social well-being of the countries in which they operate while establishing replicable examples of responsible activity and transparency. UD will hold a JDI Methodology Workshop on September 6, 2018 in Newark, Delaware. Those interested in participating should contact program development manager Patricia Syvrud at psyvrud@udel.edu. Source: GIA @topic:10


Title: CIBJO Blue Book and “Do’s and Don’ts” Guide on Responsible Sourcing Abstract: The World Jewellery Confederation (CIBJO) released the first edition of the Responsible Sourcing Book in January 2019. The latest in CIBJO’s series of Blue Books, it provides a framework and guidance for due diligence related to the responsible sourcing of gemstones and precious metals in the jewelry sector. In March, the organization also approved a simplified “Do’s and Don’ts” guide.
The new Blue Book is the result of a yearlong effort, during which a responsible sourcing commission was formed and a policy document introduced at CIBJO’s 2018 congress in Bogotá. The book, which was thoroughly reviewed by external members of the trade, advises all industry members to have a responsible sourcing policy in place and to perform due diligence on their supply chains “to the best of their ability.” It also recommends that industry members check for and mitigate risks related to human rights, labor practices, or criminal activity. The Blue Book aligns with the OECD’s Due Diligence Guidance for Responsible Supply Chains of Minerals from Conflict-Affected and High-Risk Areas, and it requires compliance with both the Kimberley Process Certification Scheme and the United Nations Guiding Principles on Business and Human Rights.
The “Do’s and Don’ts” document, at 11 pages, does not replace the Blue Book released in January. It is intended as a reference tool for business owners and their staff to ensure best practices and promote consumer confidence. As of March 2019, the simplified guide can be downloaded in English, Arabic, Dutch, French, Hebrew, Italian, and Portuguese. Additional language versions are being prepared.
Both the Blue Book and the “Do’s and Don’ts” document are available, free of charge, at www.cibjo.org. Source: GIA @topic:10


Title: Recent Graduates Offer Success Tips to GIA Students Abstract: Recent graduates, from left, Diane Kryszewski, Kelsey Hickox, Spirit Freeman and Mariana Gomez, spoke to students in September as part of GIA's Guest Lecture Series. Photo by Emily Lane/GIA

A panel of GIA graduates recently shared the various career paths they’ve taken in the gem and jewelry industry, following their love of gems, design and creating beautiful jewelry, as part of GIA’s Guest Lecture Series. They talked about how they moved from one stage to the next in their careers, including how they used their knowledge to meet their goals and the risks they took to accomplish them.
They also shared tips on how to:

prepare for an interview
find a mentor
develop your “elevator” speech
work trade shows
use trade publications

Speakers:
Diane Kryszewski, GIA GJ (2017) – Goldsmith with Kesslers Diamonds in Milwaukee, Wisconsin. Kryszewski took a jewelry making class in university and became “instantly obsessed.” She took a desk job for seven years, however, before she made the leap to GIA and the start of her career as a goldsmith. She shared tips to taking bench tests.
The most important thing she learned at GIA: “The quality control aspect of the Graduate Jeweler Program really prepared me for what to expect in my job.”
Kelsey Hickox, GIA GG, AJP and Jewelry Design Certificate (2014) – Regional lead valuation manager of fine jewelry and watches at The RealReal in Los Angeles. Hickox studied business and fashion merchandising at university, which led her to jewelry and GIA. She said her career involves fashion “as a whole,” which has brought her “full circle” in her career.
The most important thing she learned at GIA: “Don’t try to figure out what type of gem it is, let the gemstone tell you what it is."
Spirit Freeman, GIA GG and AJP (2016) and JDT (2018) – Former CAD designer and technical engineer for Christian Tse Designs & Manufacturing, Inc. in Los Angeles. Freeman is a lapidary artist, photojournalist, gemologist and jewelry design technician. He attended GIA and shared how finding a faceting machine led him to study gem cutting and rough grading and analysis in Thailand. He offered advise on how to market yourself as a gem dealer.
The most important thing he learned at GIA: “Being flexible and being very well communicated. You really need to be able to assess what your customer is wanting and what their expectations are. If you don’t know how to communicate with them, it can be a disaster.”
Mariana Gomez, GIA GG and AJP (2015) – Designer and production manager for Martin Katz in Beverly Hills. Gomez studied design in university and fell in love with jewelry, which led her to GIA. She was very involved with the Student Body Council and was able to make connections with jewelry designers, gem dealers, manufacturers in Los Angeles, which led to her first job in the industry.
The most important thing she learned at GIA: “Understanding gems, in general, (all of the characteristics of specific gems), really, really helps when designing jewelry.”
Each speaker also emphasized the importance of networking, including keeping in touch with fellow students and utilizing the connections you make in industry organizations, such as the GIA Alumni Association, AGTA and the Women’s Jewelry Association. They emphasized taking advantage of your time at GIA by using GIA’s resources, such as becoming involved with student groups and using Career Services.
Watch the panel discussion:

Check GIA’s social media accounts for information on future events:
GIA Education and GIA Alumni Association Global News & Events on Facebook and GIA News on Twitter. Source: GIA @topic:11


Title: Dreamy Drusy: Minute Crystals Shimmer in Dramatic Designs Abstract: This cobaltoan calcite drusy (a pink to purple cobalt-bearing calcite) has been cut into a heart-shape pendant and is accented with a swirl of 18K gold. Courtesy of Kara Ross. Photo by Orasa Weldon/ GIA

Drusy (also spelled druzy) jewelry has surged in popularity in recent years. Celebrities wear it on the red carpet and designers clamor for it at gem shows.

Drusy refers to clusters of small crystals that sparkle like snow or sugar coatings on the minute crystals of rock surfaces. These unique and glistening gems sparkle in bright light and appeal to those who like a natural or boho style of jewelry – and judging by the lively interest and brisk trading for it at the recent gem shows at Tucson in February, the interest continues. Designers clamored for naturally sparkling gems, along with those treated to be even brighter and more colorful, for fresh, new jewelry looks.

In nature, the most plentiful and durable drusies are found in quartz, or in the cryptocrystalline varieties of agate and chalcedony. Quartz has long been a favorite of gem carvers, and contemporary designers and cutters have discovered the intrigue and challenge of working with material that contains these minute crystals. The outcome is often stunning: designers have won national awards with gold and platinum jewelry that feature them.

The surface of this black onyx carved pendant sparkles with natural drusy crystals and is carved by Glenn Lehrer. Courtesy of Rebecca Young Buys. Photo by Orasa Weldon/GIA
Drusy is often cut in a free-flowing style that follows the shape of the material to preserve the mini crystals. Because of its delicate nature, it is best suited in jewelry as pendants, earrings, or brooches. It can be fashioned in rings and bracelets too, if they are designed with protective settings and care instructions are provided.

Quality is determined not only by color, weight and clarity, as in most colored gemstones, but also by evenness in size and coverage of the crystals on the matrix. Good quality drusy is especially rare in non-quartz species, such as garnet and calcite. The durability, or toughness, of the drusy is dependent on the nature of the crystals and the matrix in which they are embedded. For example, drusy on quartz and chalcedony are more durable than on calcite, which is more fragile.

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Colorful natural drusy materials are rare; pink is a rare and coveted color in the gem world. Natural pink cobaltoan calcite drusy material is trending with designers for its coveted combination of color, rarity and sparkle. It was first discovered on Elba Island, Livorno Province of Tuscany, Italy in 1910 and can also be found in other countries in Europe and in Africa.

Uvarovite, a natural garnet drusy, has the look of thousands of brilliant, tiny green crystals. This gemstone was discovered in the rugged Ural Mountains of Russia and is named after the Count Uvarov, who lived in the mid-1800s. Since there are no other known localities, this material is also rare.

Rainbow pyrite, the trade name for natural iridescent pyrite drusy, was first seen in the trade in the late 1990s and has been found in only one location in the world – along the banks of the Volga River in Russia. Rainbow pyrite is famed for its iridescence, caused by refraction and diffraction of light, and its metallic luster blends beautifully when set with all metals. Top quality material can shimmer in a spectrum of color, including gold, green, pink and blue. Rainbow pyrite also has a stunning array of bright golds, brassy coppers, blues, greens and rose hues, and has been said to resemble fancy color diamond melée.

This group of agate drusy shows a variety of possible coating effects. From left: silicone dioxide coating, black titanium coating, blue titanium coating and platinum coating. Courtesy of Rare Earth Mining Co. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA
Rainbow colors and metallic sheen may occur naturally, but others colors are a result of gemstone treatment. Titanium drusy is created in spectacular iridescent shades of white and blue by a titanium coating process applied in a vacuum chamber. Electroplating, a process similar to rhodium application, gives drusy a fancier and brighter appearance than its natural counterpart. Colorful crystals are sometimes coated with a film of gold, platinum, sterling silver or titanium.

Although less frequent, drusy is also found in azurite, turquoise, demantoid garnet, melanite garnet, dolomite, sphalerite, dioptase and vanadinite.

No matter how it is featured, drusy is nature’s gift – and will inspire your design and fashion dreams. Source: GIA @topic:1


Title: Adapting to Changing Workplaces: GIA Offers Employment Insight Abstract: Sonia Chaves, GIA manager of talent acquisition, greeted possible candidates at the 2018 GIA Jewelry Career Fair in New York.

There was a great deal of talk about the need for the gem and jewelry industry to adapt to the changing workforce and changing consumer attitudes at the recent GIA International Gemological Symposium.
Julia Popovich, GIA career services advisor and Peter Harts, GIA manager of career services, offer some tips on how companies can adapt to meet those needs and issues.
“We are still a traditional industry in the way we hire. Many companies take a classical approach when looking for candidates and prefer word of mouth referrals to a blind job posting,” Harts said. “However, more and more companies, large and small, are recognizing the need to make their presence better known in the marketplace.”

The opening panel “Job Success in Today’s Market” offered 2018 Career Fair attendees insight and advice. From left: Jennifer Wilson, GIA senior vice president and general counsel; Joel Schechter, executive vice president at Richline Group, Inc.; recent GIA graduate Fallon Bock, a diamond quality specialist at Leo Schachter Diamond Group; Greg Kwiat, chief executive officer at Kwiat & Fred Leighton; and Wendy Brandes, owner and president of Wendy Brandes Jewelry.
Popovich adds that, “As social media becomes more prevalent, we are seeing an increase in companies looking for candidates to bring non-traditional skills, such as digital marketing, in addition to traditional office administrative skills when filling new openings.”
Employers are also using new methods to introduce themselves to potential employees and find the ones who will be the best fit for their workforce.
“With the emergence of technology, we are seeing new ways in which companies are building their brand awareness and acquiring talent,” Hart said. “GIA is at the forefront of this trend with its Gem and Jewelry Career Center. This online job board – exclusively for the jewelry industry – is free for job seekers and employers, and offers powerful features to speed up the search for qualified candidates, in one easy to navigate location. Other industry organizations are following suit and have their own online, industry-specific job boards as well.”

Danielle Barber, creative director at Suna Bros. Inc., meeting with an attendee at GIA’s New York Jewelry Career Fair in 2018.
In terms of the types of jobs available, the GIA career services team stresses that because millennials are taking a keen interest in period, estate and older jewelry pieces, there is an increased need for appraisers across the country and a new interest in evaluators and authenticators for older pieces.
There is also a need for those who create jewelry, either with new technology or traditional methods, Popovich said.
“Technology is also changing how we design and produce jewelry, which requires many new skill sets,” Popovich said. “The demand for computer-assisted design and manufacturing (CAD/CAM) expertise has increased due to the availability and cost effectiveness of new technologies and their impact on production efficiencies. This trend is industry wide, from independent retailers, large brands and private label manufactures. In addition, demand for bench jewelers is up, across all sectors of production, and expected to grow in 2019.”

The cutting-edge GIA Jewelry Design & Technology Program includes Zbrush, which makes it possible for student designers to digitally sculpt their jewelry ideas and create stone settings using GIA-developed digital brushes. Zbrush is also taught in GIA’s CAD/CAM courses.
Beyond technology, there is a trend toward U.S. jewelry manufacturers bringing operations back to this country as younger consumers take a much greater interest in sustainability and ethical sourcing. Attention to these issues is critical to both attracting them as new employees and as consumers of gems and jewelry.
All this said, technology enhances traditional skills to make companies more productive, so there is still a strong need for those jobs in our industry.
Top job postings on GIA’s Gem and Jewelry Board include:

Sales Associate
CAD/CAM (Technician/Operator/Designer)
Quality Assurance Specialist and Evaluator (Gemstones, Diamonds, Finished Jewelry)
Bench Jeweler (Production and Independent)

GIA holds annual Jewelry Career Fairs in Carlsbad, New York and London. For more information visit https://www.gia.edu/career-fair.
This article originally appeared in Diamond District Monthly’s February edition. Source: GIA @topic:10


Title: Typhoon, Trade Wars and Currency Lows Dampen Hong Kong Shows Abstract: Visitors crowd the show floor as Typhoon Mangkhut bears down on Hong Kong. A variety of other factors also led to cautious buyers. Photo by Russell Shor/GIA

Business at the September Hong Kong Gem and Jewellery Shows was spotty despite a strong world economy. Buying was cautious and buying of higher-end diamonds and colored gems tended to be against existing or anticipated orders. In addition, many key buyers left the show after two days because Typhoon Mangkhut, the most intense storm ever recorded in Hong Kong, forced the show to close on Sept. 15. The show reopened on time the following day, but with fewer buyers.

One of the reasons for caution was the escalating trade tensions between the U.S. and China. A new round of tariffs was announced during the show, leaving buyers and exhibitors wondering where the dispute will end.

"There is so much uncertainty over how much damage this trade war will cause, and even more that it could get worse," said one key exhibitor who explained that it will have a dampening effect on China’s and Hong Kong’s economies. "People do not want to commit to large orders in this atmosphere."

Another Hong Kong industry executive noted that the gem and jewelry trade did well through the first half of the year – until the trade war began escalating.

That caution brought a strong upturn in memo orders, which banks have been trying to curtail because they cut dealers' already slim profits and hinder industry liquidity.

Adding to the economic uncertainty was the volatility of the international currency market, with the U.S. dollar rising against many currencies. The Indian rupee hit an all-time low of 71 to the dollar during the show, while the Japanese yen and other Asian currencies also fell. This made diamonds, gemstones and gold – typically priced in U.S. dollars – more expensive in local currencies and that much more difficult to sell to local consumers.

Much of the traffic at the Asia World Expo diamond and gemstone show was international dealers, not retailers, who came to fill orders for special stones or to add their inventories before the fall season. Diamond dealers found a pick-up in demand for fancy yellows because prices for all but the extreme top vivid had softened, making them much more affordable.

In colorless commercial goods, larger dealers with established local clientele saw respectable orders, but smaller exhibitors and those without a strong local client base found business very slow. All of the exhibitors lost a lot of sales opportunities because the storm wiped out the final day of the show.

Mozambique ruby dominated in the colored stone section, accounting for as much as 70% of all ruby in the market by some estimates. Fine and good quality emerald also was plentiful at the show. In both cases, demand was less than supply, although dealers insisted on keeping prices firm. Blue and fancy color sapphire was scarce in all qualities, except diffused or heavily treated material. Paraíba tourmaline also was plentiful at the show, with some stones as large as 35 carats. Demand for these has subsided in the last year, but prices remain high.

At the Hong Kong Convention Center Show, manufacturers of finished jewelry also found cautious buying for the many of the same reasons, despite the fact that major Hong Kong retailers such as Chow Tai Fook and Chow Sang Sang turned in positive results. Local jewelry makers have adapted, offering more petite designs with smaller stones at lower price points.

The show opened to ominous storm warnings and reports of heavy damage in the Philippines, which touched off a rush of overseas buyers trying to leave Hong Kong. The storm hit the city with ferocious power, blowing out windows of major hotels and downing trees. It was, however, very fast moving and the Convention Center show reopened the following day with business as usual.

"Typhoons are part of the business here in Asia," one pearl producer said. "We have learned to live with it and get through it."
DIAMONDS
De Beers sold $505 million worth of diamonds at its September cycle (sight), about 4% below the previous sale and on a par with the same cycle held last year. The company, citing slow demand for small, low-quality diamonds and a sharp decline in the rupee, allowed clients to defer buying such goods until later in the year or early next year. Source: GIA @topic:8


Title: Texas Jewelers Leave a Legacy of Learning, Bestow Nearly $500,000 for Scholarships Abstract: Charles and Erna Leutwyler, who were married for 50 years, owned the popular Charles Leutwyler Jewelers in Austin, Texas. Beginning in 2018, a perpetual endowed scholarship in their name will be available each year. Photo courtesy of the Leutwyler Estate

Boisterous Charles and soft-spoken Erna Leutwyler may have seemed like polar opposites, but through their shared love of learning and jewelry they were able to create a beloved jewelry store in Austin, Texas and a marriage that their friends still remember fondly.

As owners of Charles Leutwyler Jewelers (Leutwyler’s) for more than 20 years, these GIA alumni were committed to sharing their knowledge with others – whether it was with first-time jewelry buyers who wandered into their store, employees new to the jewelry business or long-time customers looking for the newest designs.

“Charles and Erna believed in teaching others,” says John Sofyanos, a close friend of the couple who knew them for 46 years.

Even after their deaths (Charles in 1996 and Erna in 2015), the couple is sharing their passion for jewelry and legacy of learning through the gift of an annual $18,000 GIA scholarship toward the completion of an on campus Graduate Gemologist, Graduate Jeweler or Jewelry Design & Technology program in the U.S. The first scholarship will be awarded in June 2018 and then each December for the next year’s program.

Funded by the Leutwyler’s bequest of nearly $500,000 to GIA’s Endowment Fund, The Charles and Erna Leutwyler Memorial Scholarship will make sure that the couple’s love of learning and jewelry extends to future generations of aspiring gem and jewelry professionals.
A Very Special Couple
Charles and Erna were raised and spent most of their lives in central Texas. They married in 1946 after Charles returned from serving in the U.S. Army Air Corps during World War II. They enjoyed working together and had a good marriage, Sofyanos recalls.

Charles was exuberant and wore a Mexican-style embroidered wedding shirt every day, often “smudged with fingerprints from wiping his hands while working at the bench,” Sofyanos says. “He was brusque, but with a heart of gold and was well-respected by everyone.”

Erna, on the other hand, was calm and reserved. “She dressed properly in a tailored suit with a string of pearls,” Sofyanos says. “She was a true Southern lady.”

“They were a special couple,” says Sofyanos, who met Charles in the fall of 1969 after returning from Vietnam. The two veterans quickly bonded and became good friends.

Erna managed the front of the store, while Charles worked in the back. “Most days you could see their cat sitting in the window case, wearing a beautiful diamond necklace,” Sofyanos says.

Kay Adamek, a longtime client, first met the Leutwylers in early 1967 at their original shop downtown when Charles designed her solitaire engagement ring and wedding band, “both with his personal hand-Florentine finish.”

“It was such a friendly place and Erna always had the jewelry showing at its best – [She] was the sweet, elegant hostess in the jewelry store. Charles was a master craftsman, obviously happiest with his light and magnifying hood on his forehead,” Adamek says. “In the Leutwyler’s little shop, there was so much trust and honesty.”

Adamek returned to Austin a few years later with her young son after her husband passed away and Charles designed a special ring to incorporate the gold from the original wedding bands into one ring. Over the next few years, she visited them often.

“It was only natural that when I became engaged and later married for the second time, I returned to Leutwyler’s,” she says.

Forty years later she still receives compliments on her rings. “Charles’ selection of diamonds was always exceptional,” Adamek says.
Sharing a Love of Diamonds
Charles, a fifth-generation jeweler, first worked in his father’s watch shop after the war, but his real passion was for jewelry. “Charles enjoyed the industry; he had a good reputation and he liked talking to the diamond dealers,” Sofyanos says.

The Leutwylers opened their jewelry store in the late 1960s in downtown Austin, not far from the state Capitol. After a few years, they decided to move to an area known as “The Drag,” across the street from the University of Texas (UT). The Leutwylers said it made sense financially and it would be more fun, according to Clyde Neal, who worked for the couple from 1972 to 1982. The busy area was popular with students and had a lot of foot traffic.

“Charles loved diamonds,” Neal says. “He realized that being near the university would bring a whole new clientele of young university couples looking for diamond engagement rings.”

That’s exactly how Neal met the Leutwylers in 1972 when he walked into their store as a newly engaged student. He says he left three hours later knowing a lot more about diamonds than he expected.

“Charles sat me down at a microscope and let me see the diamonds for myself. He explained the 4Cs and told me he only sold diamonds cut to ideal proportions,” Neal says. “I asked a lot of questions and he answered them all.”

Charles often took on apprentices, so a few weeks later, Neal came to work in the store. “He taught me how to solder, work with gold, size rings and more about diamonds,” he says. “And he encouraged me to enroll at GIA.”

The Leutwylers wanted all their employees to complete GIA courses, and would reimburse the employee once they completed it. “As soon as he realized someone was good enough, and was going to stick around, he wanted them to start GIA classes,” Neal says.

The Leutwylers also took GIA courses throughout their careers. Charles earned his GIA Graduate Diamonds diploma in 1966 and Erna completed numerous GIA courses. They wanted to make sure they stayed up-to-date with new advancements so they could continue to pass along that knowledge to their customers.

Charles Leutwyler, a fifth-generation jeweler, was invited to examine and photograph the Hope Diamond at the Smithsonian Institution in Washington, D.C.  Photo courtesy of the Leutwyler Estate
Innovative Techniques in Gemology, Business and Jewelry Design
Charles emphasized the importance of selling a diamond that was cut to maximize brilliance, says Neal. “He only wanted the best, most brilliant diamonds” and documented them by regularly photographing his inventory and keeping records on a computer. The Leutwylers used computers before most other small businesses at the time, Sofyanos says.

Charles also taught himself how to photograph the diamonds microscopically – called photomicrography – to see the inclusions, or internal features. According to Neal, his background in gem photography and strong industry relationships led to a remarkable opportunity for Charles to photograph the Hope Diamond

Charles mentioned to an industry friend that he wondered if the Hope Diamond, part of the gem collection at the Smithsonian Institution, had been photographed internally. The friend talked to a connection at the Smithsonian, and soon enough Charles was invited to photograph the Hope Diamond using his techniques, Neal recalls.

“Charles bought a new suit, and he and Erna made the trip to Washington, D.C., going in after-hours with security,” Neal says.

Even in the most formal settings, Charles was not afraid to show his sense of humor. “Charles said he slipped the Hope Diamond into his coat pocket while he set up the equipment,” Neal says. “The security guards were mighty nervous when that happened.”

Charles also enjoyed the mechanical aspect of jewelry making, crafting a work of art and pushing the limits technically. One piece in particular became his “pride and joy,” Sofyanos says.

He designed a Mickey Mouse-character Timex bracelet watch with “gold nugget” band, a style that was popular in the 1980s. The face was surrounded with 36 diamonds totaling more than 2 carats. The extravagant watch was featured in Texas Monthly magazine’s January 1982 issue for its “over-the-top” design.

“Everyone knew the Mickey Mouse watch,” Sofyanos says. “It was ostentatious and definitely one-of-a-kind.”
The ‘Go-to Guy’ for Education and Advice
Charles was friends with a geology professor at UT, Dr. Edward Jonas, who taught a course on colored gems. Charles wanted to share his knowledge of diamonds, so he invited Dr. Jonas and his students to the store one evening for a special diamond session. Neal, who was also enrolled in the class, says many of the students were fascinated learning about diamonds and how they’re graded.

“A lot of people in Austin came to Charlie for advice,” Sofyanos says, and the Leutwylers held diamond education nights for the community so potential buyers were well-informed.

Fellow jewelers also came to Charlie for advice. Neal remembers one occasion when another local jeweler called Leutwyler’s and wanted to come in after hours – when no one would see him. The jeweler had been repairing an antique gold pocket watch and burned a hole through the case. It wasn’t easy, but Charles repaired the gold case of the watch.

“He had that reputation,” Neal says. “He was the go-to guy.”

After more than two decades of business, and their entire careers in the jewelry industry, Charles and Erna closed their store in the early 1990s. Over the years they shared their generosity and knowledge with the many employees, customers and friends who knew them.

“Charles and Erna Leutwyler dedicated themselves to sharing their love of gems and jewelry with their community, their employees and everyone they met,” says Anna Martin, senior vice president of global development. “We are honored that the Charles and Erna Leutwyler Memorial Scholarship will continue that love of learning and spirit of giving. It has the potential to influence countless more future gemologists.”

Kay Adamek says the Leutwylers became a marker in her life, too.

“When Charles died, I wrote to Erna and received a sweet reply that she did remember me,” Adamek says. “I wondered then how many other young people walked through their doors over all those years and how many other stories there are.”

And now with the scholarship, how many more stories there will be. Source: GIA @topic:11