Title: Thai-Myanmar Petrified Woods Abstract: Figure 1. Left: Petrified woods are carved and sold as ornamental gem materials, such as these specimens from the Mae Sai market near the Thai-Myanmar border. Right: A few of the cabochons from this study. Photos by Seriwat Saminpanya.

Petrified woods (figure 1, left) have long been used as a gem and ornamental material due to their beauty, luster, durability, and relative rarity. Certain minerals (mainly quartz, opal, or moganite) crystallize or precipitate in the hollow cavities and cells of the woods in a fossilization process. Fossil trading is government regulated in some countries, and gemologists should know the useful identifying characteristics of petrified woods, which can be misidentified as jasper and agate. With this in mind, the author examined Thai-Myanmar petrified wood samples, fashioned as cabochons (figure 1, right), for gemological characterization.

More than 100 Thai samples were collected from the four localities shown in figure 2: Tak, in Ban Tak-Oke (TAK); Khon Kaen, in Ban Hin Khao (BHK); Chaiyaphum, in Noen Sa Nga (CYP); and Nakhonratchasima, in Kroke Duan Ha (KDH). About 100 Burmese samples were donated by carvers from Mae Sai in Chiang Rai province (MYR), near the border of Thailand and Myanmar. Thai specimens were collected from either Quaternary gravel beds of fluvial deposits or the high-terrace sands and gravels of paleorivers. Tektite grains found in the sediments date back 700,000 to 900,000 years (P. W. Haines et al., “Flood deposits penecontemporaneous with ~0.8 Ma tektite fall in NE Thailand: Impact-induced environmental effects?” Earth and Planetary Science Letters, Vol. 225, 2004, pp. 19–28).

Thirty-eight samples (all but seven from Thailand) were tested by standard gemological methods, Raman spectroscopy, and X-ray diffraction (XRD). Thirty-seven of these came from dicotyledonous plants, indicated by vascular bundles concentrated in an outer ring of active growth. Periods of slow (winter) and fast (summer) growth create the growth rings in the trunk. One sample came from a palm tree, and had vascular bundles dispersed throughout the trunk.

Figure 2. A map showing the localities in Thailand and Myanmar where the petrified wood
samples originated. Adapted from Saminpanya and Sutherland, 2013.
The rough surfaces may have been altered and stained by soil or iron oxides, resulting in black, brown, cream, white, and red coloration. Colorless areas and different shades of brown, black, gray, white, cream, yellow, orange, and red appeared below the surface. Some samples exhibited color banding. Most Thai samples were opaque or nearly opaque; those from Myanmar were translucent and lighter in tone. The surfaces showed varying degrees of luster and fracturing. Refractive indices ranged from 1.425 to 1.543 (tested at the flat polished base of the cabochon), and specific gravities ranged from 1.963 to 2.616. Most samples fluoresced weak to moderate chalky white under long-wave UV, but some were inert or showed very weak white fluorescence.

A gemological microscope can often reveal a well-preserved wood grain structure in petrified wood samples. Studies of wood structure generally involve the transverse, tangential, and radial sections of the trunk (R.F. Evert, Esau’s Plant Anatomy: Meristems, Cells, and Tissues of the Plant Body: Their Structure, Function, and Development, 3rd ed., John Wiley & Sons, Hoboken, New Jersey, 2006, pp. 203, 292–296). A transverse section of one of the samples (figure 3) showed several tiny oval-shaped pores filled with quartz or opal (e.g., S. Saminpanya and F.L. Sutherland, “Silica phase-transformations during diagenesis within petrified woods found in fluvial deposits from Thailand-Myanmar,” Sedimentary Geology, Vol. 290, 2013, pp. 15–26). The samples also showed thin parallel rays, groups of cells oriented perpendicular to the trunk’s main axis. In some samples, the parenchyma (the most common plant tissue cells) consisted of pale lines or bands running across the rays. Others showed parenchyma surrounding a pore on the long and parallel wood grains of the tangential section, or dark-colored pores extending the length of the trunk. On the radial section, the pores ran the length of the trunk, with wood grains perpendicular to the pores.

Figure 3. Oval pores and rays (wavy white lines) are seen on a transverse section of this
petrified wood sample, and the growth rings are visible as two lines crossing the image.
Photomicrograph by Seriwat Saminpanya; field of view 10 mm.
Raman spectra were characteristic of opal (according to the RRUFF database, rruff.info), quartz, and moganite (K.J. Kingma and R.J. Hemley, “Raman spectroscopic study of microcrystalline silica,” American Mineralogist, Vol. 79, 1994, pp. 269–273). Figure 4 shows the peaks for the TAK, BHK, and CYP samples; peaks for KDH (which included opal) and MYR samples were previously presented (Saminpanya and Sutherland, 2013). Most of the quartz material displayed peaks at 354, 395–397, and 464–466 cm–1, with different colors within a sample exhibiting different peak intensities. Some samples showed only major peaks of quartz at 464–466 cm–1. Moganite was mixed with quartz in one sample apiece from CYP, KDH, and MYR, indicated by peaks at 503–506 cm–1, close to the reference peak of 501 cm–1 (Kingma and Hemley, 1994). Two KDH samples showed bands centered at 1587 and 1607 cm–1, characteristic of opal (Saminpanya and Sutherland, 2013), which was probably responsible for the weak to moderate chalky white fluorescence in some of the samples.

Figure 4. Raman spectra of petrified wood samples from Chyaphum (CYP), Tak (TAK),
and Khon Kaen (BHK) with quartz (Q) peaks at 465 cm–1. Samples from Chyaphum
show a moganite (M) peak at 503–506 cm–1.
XRD showed that the quartz peaks had an average 2Θ of 21.0, 26.7, 36.6, 39.6, 40.4, 42.5, 45.9, 50.2, and 55.0 degrees; the opal-CT peaks had an average 2Θ of 20.7, 21.7, 36.0, 44.0, and 56.9 degrees (again, see rruff.info). Quartz appeared in the XRD peaks of samples from all localities, but the opal-CT was found only in samples from KDH and MYR. The diffractogram of opal-CT in one sample from KDH appeared noisy. This may be due to its amorphous nature, though extending the XRD scan times may improve the resolution of the peaks. At this stage, XRD can only detect quartz and opal from these samples. Source: GIA @topic:1


Title: Spotlight on Gemology at the Geological Society of America Annual Conference Abstract: Visitors to GIA’s booth at the 2014 GSA conference spoke with representatives, including Dr. James Shigley, left, to learn about GIA, gemology education programs and career opportunities. Photo by Cathy Jonathon/GIA

                      Diamonds and colored gems have captivated people with their rarity and beauty for thousands of years.

But for GIA’s research team and other geoscientists who attended the Geological Society of America’s (GSA) annual meeting, it’s the science of gems that’s most fascinating.

The conference is one of the most respected in the geological science community and draws top researchers and noted academics – representing more than 50 countries – from around the world.

“It’s the meeting geoscience professionals and students attend,” Dr. James Shigley, GIA’s distinguished research fellow, said. In fact, nearly 40% of the roughly 6,700 attendees were undergraduate and graduate geoscience students.

“This conference enables the Institute to reach a new audience and share our research with other members of the scientific community,” he said. “It also provides an opportunity to expose geology students to gemology. We spoke with many who were interested in education programs and job opportunities at GIA in the geosciences field.”

Recognition of gemology as a field in the geosciences has increased in recent years, but many visitors to GIA’s booth were unfamiliar with the Institute, Shigley said.

“Our presence at the conference gave visitors the opportunity to learn more about who we are, what we do and the types of gemology positions available,” he added. “It was a chance for a face-to-face conversation with GIA researchers.”

Held Oct. 19-22 in Vancouver, British Columbia, Canada, the 2014 GSA conference included 346 technical sessions and 4,487 oral or poster presentations. Each half-day session was made up of brief presentations – on a related theme – by numerous professionals and students. GIA has had a booth at the conference for many years, but last year, the 125th anniversary of GSA, marked the first time the Institute hosted a half-day session. This year, GIA hosted back-to-back sessions – a full day of presentations.

GIA’s presentations emphasized the science of gems, including exploration, documenting the conditions of formation and characterizing the properties of gem minerals, and improving gem identification techniques. The sessions, titled “Gemological Research in the 21st Century: Exploration, Geology and Characterization of Diamonds and Other Gem Minerals,” included presentations from key GIA researchers including Dr. Wuyi Wang, Dr. Mike Breeding, Troy Ardon, along with Dr. Aaron Palke and Dr. Karen Smit, both postdoctoral research associates at GIA, as well as other renowned researchers and professionals in the geoscience community.

Shigley and Dona Dirlam, GIA’s director of the Richard T. Liddicoat Gemological Library and Information Center, moderated the presentations.

In addition to the sessions, GIA also hosted four gemological poster presentations on topics of Columbian emeralds, diamond inclusions and Sowerby’s “British Mineralogy,” illustrated volumes from the early 1800s. Each presenter, or group of presenters, created a poster of their research and were available to field questions from interested attendees.

GIA’s Vancouver alumni chapter hosted an event for local alumni to meet with researchers and speakers from the conference. More than 50 people gathered for the dinner reception on Oct. 20.

Dirlam, who has been involved with the GSA conference since 1980, understands the importance the meeting has to the scientific community and has been instrumental in GIA’s participation over the years. Not only is it important for GIA to learn about advancements in the geosciences, but it provides a forum to share gemological research, she said.

“Our involvement at this conference exposes the audience to what GIA researchers are doing day in and day out,” Dirlam said. Source: GIA @topic:7


Title: Book Review: Farah Khan: A Bejeweled Life Abstract: By Paola De Luca, hardcover, 304 pp., illus., publ. by Rizzoli, New York, 2019, $125.00.

In this complex and vast world, we often forget to pay attention to the little things around us and all the importance one object can hold. A Bejeweled Life gives us an idea of how simple it is to appreciate the minute details in and around our lives. With each flip of the page, the reader experiences the many different realms Farah Khan occupies. Because this book is a combination of an autobiography and portfolio, we are given a glimpse of Khan’s life and we are able to understand what drives her and makes her jewelry unique. Through De Luca’s use of photographs and Khan’s own sketches and words, our perspectives are altered to help us better understand the latter’s deceptively simple jewelry designs. If Khan isn’t getting inspiration in family and close friends, she sees it in the beautiful complexities found in nature and architecture. Khan does a great job showcasing the simplicities that make her jewelry so exquisite.
The book begins with the four pillars of her brand: Nature, Love, Architecture, and Ethics. She then breaks down the pillars into chapters that inspire her work: “Fluidity,” “Royal Flair,” “Naturalia,” “The Rose,” and “Surreal Vision.” We are introduced to each theme with a story and an image. “Fluidity” defines Khan as a person: her changing roles, her shifting landscapes, her expanding horizons, and her sense of freedom. Here she includes a statement cuff called “Amphitrite-Queen of the Sea,” which uses 151.24 carats of kite-shaped Colombian emeralds alongside carved aquamarine leaves and diamonds, all set in 18K yellow gold. “Royal Flair” is incorporated in her pieces with decadent jewels, immortal art, and palaces to draw attention to the great dynasties that shaped human civilization. Two 18K gold rings from her Crown collection fit into this category; the first features amethyst, citrine, and diamonds, while the other has green topaz alongside emeralds, sapphires, and diamonds. “Naturalia” is used to capture ephemeral moments of natural grace, such as sunlight filtering through a dragonfly’s wing. The ring called “Social Butterfly” uses yellow and pink sapphires with rubies and diamonds in an 18K gold setting. “The Rose” evokes romance and nostalgia, while “Surreal Vision” represents Khan’s life and where she found her calling—her art is shaped by the streets and spirits of the city where she grew up. This publication aligns perfectly with Khan’s lifestyle. Not only do we get an up-close view of her art, but we get to experience her beautiful poetry, which springs from the same deep inner thoughts as her designs.
One drawback of the book is that each theme is very different from the last, making it difficult to keep track of where the book is going and where it will end up. It is very easy to get lost in the decorative pages and sumptuous photos and lose track of her four main building blocks. It might be easier for the reader to understand the overall concept if the book only touched on those pillars. Since many factors contribute to Khan’s aesthetic, the reader can easily forget that the book is about jewelry. However, I expected that I would encounter many vibrant pages that would distract me from keeping track of the storyline.
While the organizational aspect of the book could be improved upon, people looking for the inspiration and drive to design their own jewelry would be drawn to A Bejeweled Life; I developed just such a spark to create jewelry. The book is very appealing to the eye and would be useful to anyone who gives close attention to detail. Within each page, we see all the intellectual work artists produce to create the unique jewelry that so many of us desire. Source: GIA @topic:6


Title: US Holiday Season Opens Well, Despite Volatile Markets Abstract: The Moon of Baroda, a 24.04 ct Fancy yellow diamond was found in India centuries ago and was part of the collection of Marie Therese of Vienna, the Habsburg’s only female monarch. Christie’s sold the diamond in December for $1.34 million, twice its pre-sale estimate. Photo courtesy of Christie’s.

The U.S. holiday shopping season is looking positive, despite some warning signs that an economic slowdown may be coming next year.

A Diamond Producers Association poll estimated that a record 53 million consumers intend to buy a diamond this season, with millennials registering the highest percentage of would-be buyers.

In addition, a Centurion survey of predominately upscale independent retail jewelers found that 41% saw a 10% or higher sales increase during Black Friday weekend, the traditional start of the holiday shopping season, with a similar percentage saying sales were even with 2017. Only 9% reported a sales decline. It is important to note, however, that most jewelry sales occur late in the season, in the days just before Christmas.

Overall, retail has been doing well. A MasterCard survey of shoppers for all consumer goods found that retail sales for Black Friday weekend was 9% over the same period last year. MasterCard analysts expect some slowdown in buying, but note that the season will finish with a 5% gain overall. This is in line with forecasts from the National Retail Federation.

Online sales soared, tracking 24% over 2017 November totals, according to Adobe Analytics, which tracks e-business.

Retail analysts remain concerned, however, that recent declines in the stock market, large-scale layoffs at General Motors and gloomy predictions about next year’s economy may slow shoppers’ desire to spend before the season is out.

In China, the world’s second largest jewelry market, major jewelers reported that the trade war with the U.S. has caused demand for gold and gemstone pieces to decline about 5% during the current quarter. Chinese currency has declined about 5% in recent months, raising prices of these commodities for consumers.

The Peacock Necklace, containing 109.08 carats of Kashmir sapphires, sold for a record $14.96 million at Christie’s Hong Kong auction on Nov. 27.  Photo courtesy of Christie’s
AUCTIONS
The major auctions continued their record-breaking pace in November. At Christie’s Hong Kong sale on Nov. 27, an unnamed buyer paid nearly $15 million, a record price, for the Peacock Necklace, which features 21 cushion cut Kashmir sapphires ranging in size from 3.02 carats to 10.56 carats (totaling 109.08 carats) and 23 D color diamonds weighing between 1.03 to 4.05 carats. Both the sapphires and diamonds were graded by GIA.

At the same auction, star-power helped the 24.04 ct Moon of Baroda Fancy yellow diamond break the million-dollar mark ($1.32 million), twice its pre-sale estimate. The GIA-graded pear shaped stone was made famous by Marilyn Monroe who wore it for promotion photos for the film Gentlemen Prefer Blondes. The diamond was found in India and was acquired by Marie Therese’ of Vienna (1717-1780), the only female ruler of the Austrian Habsburg dynasty.

Marilyn Monroe held the Moon of Baroda in publicity photos for her film "Gentlemen Prefer Blondes." Christie's sold the diamond in December for $1.34 million, twice its pre-sale estimate. Photo courtesy of Christie's.
An Asian private buyer at the Christie’s auction paid $7.3 million for a 10.04 ct Burmese ruby ring, while a pair of Fancy pink earrings, 5.21 and 5.01 carats respectively, drew a winning bid of $4.3 million.

Sotheby’s December New York sale featured more star-powered jewels, this time from the estate of Barbara Sinatra, the late singer’s wife. Her collection included a number of emerald pieces and designer jewels and her 20.60 GIA-graded D-VVS1 diamond engagement ring that sold for $1.7 million. This was slightly over the top pre-sale estimate. The auction also included a 10.62 ct Fancy Vivid blue pear-shaped diamond, expected to sell for $20-$30 million, but failed to find a buyer.
COLORED STONES
The Colombia Emerald Producers Association, known by its Spanish acronym Aprecol, plans to seek official recognition for the origin of its gems. The organization is seeking Appellation of Origin status from the United Nation’s World Intellectual Property Organization in Geneva, which will give legal protection against dealers who ascribe Colombian origins to emeralds mined in other locales.

Appellation of Origin status is commonly employed in wines (Bordeaux and champagne) and distinctive food products (Parma ham), but has never been applied to precious stones, despite the fact that gems from certain origins can carry substantial premiums.

Aprecol announced it would employ blockchain technology to secure the supply chains, insuring that the emeralds were mined ethically and exported legally from Colombia. The organization is hoping to begin certification in March of 2019. Source: GIA @topic:8


Title: Conference Report: ICA Congress 2013 Abstract: Participants listen to a presentation at the 2013 ICA Congress in Changsha, China. Photo by Tao Hsu.

                      On May 12–16, the International Colored Gemstone Association (ICA) held its biennial congress in Changsha, China. The theme of this congress was “Sourcing Countries and China Market.” The opening ceremony took place on May 14, and the presentations lasted through May 15.

In the opening session, Sun Fengmin from the Gems & Jewelry Trade Association of China noted the impressive growth of the Chinese economy: 7.7% during the first quarter of 2013, 4.3% of that in the consumer sector. Of the approximately US$70 billion in Chinese retail jewelry sales last year, only 1.3% was from colored stones, indicating tremendous room for growth. Several high-ranking Chinese government officials attended and addressed the Congress, including the deputy governor of Hunan, Li Youzhi. In his speech, Deputy Governor Li urged closer collaboration between the Hunan government and the province’s gem and jewelry industry. Ms. Ke Jie, director of the National Gemstone Testing Center, spoke on the role of gemological laboratories in China. Dr. Lu Taijin, chief researcher at the National Gems & Jewelry Technology Administrative Center, outlined colored stone treatments and their identification criteria in gemological laboratories. Mingxing Yang discussed the establishment of gemological education in China and the degrees currently offered.

On the second day of presentations, these contributors detailed the benefits of education from the source to the retail counter. Ken Scarratt, presenting for GIA’s Vincent Pardieu, highlighted advances in travel and communication technology that have changed how material is brought to market. New sources and the challenges of origin determination were also addressed. ICA vice president Jean-Claude Michelou called for a mechanism to trace and certify ethical sources with the UN’s Interregional Crime and Justice Research Institute. Mr. Michelou described the challenges in accomplishing this with a highly fragmented supply chain, the benefits of implementing such a system, and the risks of not doing so. Marcelo Ribeiro, director of the Belmont mine in Colombia, examined key aspects of bringing emerald to the market, including mining, sorting rough, cutting, judging cut stones, enhancements, and grading reports. Hecliton Santini Henriques, president of the Brazilian Gems and Jewelry Trade Association, gave a talk on the Brazilian gemstone and jewelry industry and how it has achieved full vertical integration. Mr. Henriques outlined the history of the Brazilian industry, the types of colored stones mined there, and the country’s role as a global supplier. Amitha Gamage and A. H. M. Imtizem of the Sri Lanka Gem and Jewellery Association reported on the island’s gem industry from mine to market. They discussed all aspects of Sri Lankan mining, including alluvial and large-scale operations and government regulations regarding mining licenses, land rehabilitation, and fair trade practices. They also spoke on advances in the cutting industry and how more trade-friendly government regulations led to a 55% increase in gem exports from 2010 to 2012.

Sophia Chong, director of the Hong Kong Trade Development Council, presented market trends. She described the effect of trade shows, trade journals, online marketplaces, mobile devices, and an integrated approach to all of these. Francis Cui, co-founder and CEO of the China Colored Stone website (www.colored-stone.com.cn) and ICA ambassador to China, discussed the use of the internet in selling at the retail and wholesale levels. Mr. Cui highlighted online shopping trends in China and how the colored gemstone industry can capitalize on them. Shirley Zhang, founder of the MeiHe Jewelry Styling Research Center, spoke about her design philosophy, which focuses on humanistic ideas and internal echoes between jewelry and the mind, as well as techniques and Chinese jewelry design. Source: GIA @topic:10


Title: Books: Cycles of Life: Rings from the Benjamin Zucker Family Collection Abstract: By Sandra Hindman, with Beatriz Chadour-Sampson, Reine Hadjadj, Jack Ogden, and Diana Scarisbrick, hardcover, illus., 258 pp., publ. by Paul Holberton Publishing, London, 2014, £35.00.

Cycles of Life: Rings from the Benjamin Zucker Family Collection celebrates 40 years of collecting by one of the world’s most notable gem dealers. The book is the third in Hindman’s series on recent exhibitions at Les Enluminures, her gallery specializing in manuscripts, miniatures, and jewelry from the Middle Ages and the Renaissance.

	Hindman presents a selection of rings from the Zucker collection, much of which has been on loan to the Walters Art Museum in Baltimore since 1985. They are organized according to the talismanic, symbolic and commemorative roles rings have played in birth, marriage, death, and everyday life, and even as a symbol of eternity.

	Although organized by life cycles, the rings also document the changes in styles through the ages. Hindman describes the forces that were often behind these changes, such as the discovery of Brazilian diamonds, which caused the proliferation of diamonds in rings; and the  wars, disease, and plagues of the 1600s that led to the commemorative “memento mori” rings. It is also intriguing to see the continuity of jewelry design. Many of the pieces would not be out of place in a modern jewelry store: diamond solitaires, with the stones set high and with open sides so that light can enter; clusters of small diamonds that give the impression of greater size; and trios of diamonds set on the shoulders of rings.

	Hindman opens each section with an appropriate illustration from a medieval or Renaissance manuscript. Other reproductions of paintings and illuminations show how rings were actually worn in the past. My favorite illustration is from the beginning of the “Everyday Life” chapter. It shows a busy jewelry shop in the Middle Ages, with cloths spread with gems on the counters, and jewelry and vessels displayed on the shelves in the back. Change the clothing and it could be almost any family-run jewelry store today.

	As Hindman notes early on, rings often fit into multiple categories, and Cycles of Life is not meant to force them into rigid classifications. Instead, the book considers how, since the dawn of history, rings have encapsulated our hopes, our desires, our fears.

	“Birth” includes rings that offer prayers to Mary and Christ—both virgin births. A spectacular “gimmel”—or twin—ring, with its engraved and enameled interlocking shanks, opens to show a figure of a baby on one side and a skeleton on the other. It serves as a reminder of the importance of humility, signaling that the end of life is death, and that all things pass.

	“Marriage” features a broad selection of elaborate Jewish marriage rings—probably only worn during the wedding ceremony. Fascinating “key” rings indicate that, upon marriage, wives took on the keys to the stores and the responsibility of feeding the household. Most of the rings have been decorated with loving sentiments. Hindman traces the shift from the medieval practice of engraving sentiments on the outside of the ring shanks, in a public display, to the Renaissance practice of engraving them privately inside the rings.

	“Everyday Life” illustrates seal rings used for signing documents, rings engraved with crests and coats of arms identifying families, and gemstone rings worn not necessarily for vanity, but to invoke the special power and properties often associated with those stones.

	Medieval rings in the “Death” section show the well-warranted fears of mortality in that era. They are inscribed with charms and prayers, and set with stones believed to have magical properties. “Death jewelry,” writes Hindman, “appeared to have enjoyed a vogue” in the late Renaissance. These rings, worn in remembrance of a lost loved one, might today be considered gruesome: decorated with skulls and bones, or containing the hair of a deceased person. Such rings were often set with diamonds, a symbol of eternal life.

	Finally, “Eternity” tracks the evolution of the diamond ring from ancient Rome to the modern era. As Hindman writes, this section presents “a kind of mini-history of the diamond ring,” following the history of setting and cutting. Known since antiquity for their indestructibility, diamonds quite naturally became a symbol of eternity—hence their eventual use in betrothal and wedding rings. Diamonds represented the enduring nature of a monarch’s reign and, perhaps not inconsequentially, were believed to protect against poisoning. As already mentioned, diamonds in memento mori rings signified the eternal nature of the soul. The inclusion of perpetual calendar rings seems a bit out of place among so many diamonds, but is appropriate to rings dealing with eternity. This section acknowledges Benjamin Zucker’s long love affair with diamonds and diamond jewelry, and the important place they hold in his collection.

Cycles of Life is primarily a catalog of an exhibition of the same name at Hindman’s Les Enluminures gallery in New York that ran from Oct. 30 to Dec. 6, 2014. Excellent notes on provenance and sources as well as comparable pieces make this a valuable resource for the specialist. It also makes absorbing reading for non-specialists with an interest in jewelry history; the notes and bibliography provide gateways to further study. Comparison pieces show how styles influenced and were influenced by others. Descriptions of shank shape, enameling and setting techniques, manufacturing methods, and metal types offer fascinating windows into the superb skills of jewelers through the ages. Notes on gemstones serve as a reminder of the extent of trade in the ancient world: Garnets from India and emeralds from Egypt appear in ancient Roman rings.

	In addition to the breadth of the collection, the quality of the pieces is astonishing. Many are in excellent shape, with gemstones and even enameling in place. Excellent photos taken from multiple angles allow the reader to examine minute details of each ring, from enameling and engraving to areas of damage and repair.

	In addition to the five sections—Birth, Marriage, Everyday Life, Death, and Eternity—the book includes a preface by Benjamin Zucker outlining his initiation into the world of ancient jewelry as a young man just out of Harvard, through his lifelong habit of collecting. There is also a bibliography of Zucker’s writing, and a separate bibliography of references.

Cycles of Life would make a worthwhile addition to the library of anyone interested in jewelry history. Source: GIA @topic:6


Title: Imitation Opal with Interesting Play-of-Color Pattern Abstract: Figure 1. This opal imitation shows a billowy play-of-color phenomenon. The largest block measures approximately 61.79 mm in length. Photo by Robison McMurtry and Diego Sanchez. Courtesy of Sanwa Pearl & Gems Ltd.

GIA’s Carlsbad laboratory recently examined samples of a relatively new manufactured gem material sometimes known as a “hybrid opal product” (figure 1) (see Spring 2018 Lab Notes, pp. 60–62). This material showed a refractive index of 1.498–1.500, and the specific gravity ranged from 1.33 to 1.35. Both of these properties fall far outside the range for natural opal, making identification very straightforward for the gemologist. These anomalous gemological properties also mean that this material is best described as an opal imitation and not a synthetic opal. This material is reportedly composed of about 20% silica and about 80% resin, which is consistent with the gemological properties measured.

Figure 2. The imitation opal showed broad swaths of the play-of-color phenomenon when examined with a microscope. Photomicrograph by Nathan Renfro; field of view 18.80 mm.
This new imitation opal showed a pronounced play-of-color phenomenon with a pattern unlike the kind one would expect to see in conventional synthetic opal. Instead of small cellular patches, it displayed broad swaths of ever changing play-of-color covering large areas of the surface (figure 2). The laboratory examined samples that showed either a black or white bodycolor and a variety of colors in the play-of-color areas. For those who love opal, this attractive material could offer a cost-effective alternative to natural material while retaining the allure of the play-of-color phenomenon. Source: GIA @topic:12


Title: Conversation with Gemfields Abstract: Figure 1. The massive open-pit Kagem emerald mine in Zambia is perhaps the largest colored gemstone mining operation in the world. Photo by Andrew Lucas, courtesy of Gemfields.

	UK-based Gemfields is widely considered the largest producer and distributor of responsibly sourced colored gemstones. This year in Tucson, we had an exclusive interview with CEO Ian Harebottle to get his insights on the company and the colored gemstone industry overall.

	Unlike the diamond industry, almost every segment of the colored stone trade has traditionally lacked scale and systematic practices. Gemfields has dramatically changed this dynamic in some of the most influential colored stone categories. The company is actively working on three mining operations: the Kagem emerald mine (figure 1) and the Kariba amethyst mine in Zambia, and the Montepuez ruby mine in Mozambique. Among the three, Kagem and Montepuez are world-class operations, supplying about one-third of the global emerald production and 70% of ruby production. Before, both stone types experienced fluctuating supply and chronic shortages. Gemfields is very optimistic about the expected supply from Kagem and Montepuez, based on scientific field surveys and detailed geophysical and geochemical studies.

	To stabilize supply for the global market, Gemfields requires the mines to reserve one year’s production in case yield declines significantly. Based on the authors’ research, many Gemfields clients appreciate the standards set by the company on emerald and ruby mining and distribution. The consistent supply and well-tuned rough grading systems grant buyers more time to focus on faceting, jewelry making, and sales. This practice also has a positive influence on other mining companies that aim to meet the same standards.

	In 2013, Gemfields purchased the iconic luxury brand Fabergé. Harebottle explained that the deal does not reflect an interest in vertical integration but in creativity and uniqueness in the market, an area where Fabergé has a rich heritage (figure 2). Therefore, he hopes that the brand can be a platform of magnificent jewelry designs, igniting the passion for colored gemstones in the younger generation. According to Gemfields, Fabergé’s sales orders jumped 95% during the second quarter of fiscal year 2017.

Figure 2. The merger of Gemfields and Fabergé should continue to inspire one-of-a-kind colored gemstone pieces. Photo courtesy of Fabergé.

	When it comes to corporate social responsibility, Gemfields sets a good example across its mining locations through successful joint ventures and community programs. The Kagem emerald mine is one of the only mining companies that has paid federal taxes in the past 15 years in Zambia. The Montepuez ruby mine was named Mozambique’s most transparent tax payer and the most important job generator in its province. Harebottle described the different challenges the company has faced and will be facing in the future. Since the sites are usually located in areas that lack robust mining regulations or laws and some countries have a very long mining history, the company often applies different strategies to localize itself. To champion responsibility and sustainability on location, a foreign company such as Gemfields needs to make the local people feel confident about their future, and this is fueled by job opportunities.

	Since its founding less than 10 years ago, Gemfields has always sought to rekindle the passion for colored gemstones. Harebottle likes to compare the company’s role in colored stones with that of De Beers in the diamond sector, especially when the latter heavily promoted diamonds. He also feels that colored gemstones should have a stronger position in the luxury goods market. With this mission under way, and active exploration for new production sites in Colombia and Ethiopia, more accomplishments are expected from this major colored gem supplier. Source: GIA @topic:7


Title: Geo-Literary Society Meeting Abstract: The Geo-Literary Society held its annual meeting on Feb. 14 at the Tucson Convention Center. The event, which drew attendees from the Tucson Gem and Mineral Shows, featured presentations by Scott Sucher and Al Gilbertson in a session titled “The Evolution of Diamond Cutting.”
Sucher, president of The Stonecutter in Albuquerque, New Mexico, has created replicas of famous diamonds for more than 30 years. Gilbertson, a research associate at GIA in Carlsbad, California, has authored numerous articles on diamond cut and grading, as well as the 2007 book American Cut: The First 100 Years.
Sucher opened the session by chronicling the early history of diamond use, global trade patterns, and advances in cutting techniques and styles. Using computer models, he compared the brilliance and fire of several early diamond cuts.
Gilbertson picked up the story with the discovery of Brazilian diamond deposits around 1725, which ushered in a period of glittery excess among European elites. David Jeffries, whose 1750 treatise described the use of a handheld “prover” to measure cutting angles, coined the term “round brilliant” for a cut that contained 58 facets.
The discovery of massive diamond deposits in South Africa in 1867 changed the course of the industry, making these treasures available to a mass market. By 1870, there were 10,000 cutters in Europe. These artisans followed the shape of the original crystal and kept as much of the original weight as possible.
But the emphasis on weight retention was beginning to unravel thanks to Henry Morse, who set up a cutting shop in Boston around 1860. Morse, who once said, “Shopping for diamonds by the carat is like buying a racehorse by the pound,” emphasized the cut of a stone and the brilliance that resulted. He invented a gauge to measure crown and pavilion angles, and devised his own set of best proportions. He also helped develop mechanical bruting, which increased the production of round-cut diamonds.
With turn-of-the-century improvements such as the circular saw, which made it easy to cut two diamonds from a rough crystal, the stage was set for the modern round brilliant. In 1919, Belgian engineer Marcel Tolkowsky published a landmark book, titled Diamond Design, in which he asserted that the best-cut stones feature a 53% table, 59% total depth, and a knife-edged girdle. With some modifications to Tolkowsky’s proportions—an extended lower half, a larger table, and a closed-up culet—the round brilliant as we know it was established by 1950.
As Gilbertson pointed out, the breakthroughs in diamond cut planning and evaluation were just beginning. The Firescope viewer, developed in 1986, allowed the user to see a “Hearts and Arrows” pattern in a diamond cut to these “ideal” proportions. The Sarin scanner, introduced six years later, offered rapid, accurate proportion measurement, which led to the various cut grading services available today. Among other recent advances are inclusion-mapping software and high-speed laser cutting.
Following the presentation, Sucher invited the audience to view his faceted replicas of Cullinans I and II, the Koh-i-Noor, the Hope, and several other historical diamonds.
“Scott Sucher transported us to the early days of diamond cutting as we learned the first sources and tools,” said Dona Dirlam, the Geo-Literary Society’s secretary and the host of the session. “We saw how cutting styles evolved with improvements in the tools and an increase in the diamond supply. With each development, we saw this fascinating transformation through visual models.
“Al Gilbertson told us the largely unknown story of Henry Morse and chronicled the birth of the modern round brilliant,” Dirlam added. “As Al and Scott pointed out, today’s computer-optimized diamond cutting seems light-years removed from the earliest techniques.” Source: GIA @topic:7


Title: A Jadeite Bangle Simulant: Hydrogrossular Garnet Abstract: Figure 1. The photo on the left shows a jadeite jade bangle. The photo on the right shows two hydrogrossular garnet bangles that were claimed to be jadeite. Photos by Lai Tai-An Gem Lab.

Jadeite, a material significant within Chinese culture, is often submitted to the Lai Tai-An Gem Laboratory for identification.

Historically, the name “jade” has been applied to either nephrite or jadeite. Nephrite has been used for adornment and ornamentation for thousands of years in China, and nephrite objects from many dynasties are found in museums, auctions, and antique shops around the world. While newer to the Chinese market, jadeite jade is becoming increasingly important. Jadeite bangles (figure 1, left) require more rough than cabochons or fashioned stones, resulting in a larger amount of waste. Consequently, the value placed on good-quality pieces is higher, and jadeite bangles with fine textures and brilliant colors continue to set new records in auction houses.

We recently received two similar-looking bangles (figure 1, right) for identification. The client claimed the pieces were jadeite, but we determined them to be hydrogrossular garnet. This jadeite simulant is rarely seen in bangle form; it is more likely encountered as carvings or cabochons. In this particular case, the similarity to jadeite was extremely convincing.

The two translucent, light to strongly saturated green and white hydrogrossular garnet bangles weighed 339.55 ct and 400.03 ct, and measured 75 × 11 mm and 77 × 12 mm, respectively. Both exhibited a spot refractive index of 1.72, specific gravities of 3.42/3.45, inert reaction to both short-wave and long-wave UV, and a light pink reaction through the Chelsea color filter. The absorption spectrum showed a cutoff below 460 nm, and the material exhibited black pepper-like inclusions (figure 2); these characteristics suggest that the color of the garnet is natural.

Figure 2. These hydrogrossular garnet bangles exhibit the black pepper-like inclusions that are sometimes found in this material. Photo by Lai Tai-An Gem Lab; field of view 8.20 mm.
The identification was confirmed by FTIR and Raman analysis. Peaks at 954, 866, 843, 616, 560, 488, and 458 cm–1 in the infrared spectra (figure 3), and peaks at 367, 408, 544, 823, 877, 1489, and 1543 cm–1 (figure 4) in the Raman spectrum are indicative of hydrogrossular garnet. The similarity to jadeite could lead to a costly error, so those in the trade must be aware of such imitations.

Figure 3. FTIR spectra reveal the difference between jadeite jade (red line, peaks at 1175,
1075, 1051, 957, 855, 745, 666, 589, 534, 476, and 435 cm–1) and hydrogrossular garnet
(blue line, peaks at 954, 866, 843, 616, 560, 488, and 458 cm–1).

Figure 4. Raman analysis of one of the client’s bangles, using a near-infrared wavelength
of 785 nm, confirms its hydrogrossular garnet identity. Source: GIA @topic:13


Title: Two Members Honored with Alumni Awards Abstract: Jennifer Cleveland, left, and Angela Alba, right, were honored at the February 2014 GIA Alumni Association party in Tucson.

                      Alums at the annual GIA Alumni Association party in Tucson stopped their auction browsing and dancing briefly to recognize two of their own for outstanding chapter contributions. Angela Alba, of Austin, Texas, received the 2014 International Leadership Award; and Jennifer Cleveland, of Saint Clair Shores, Michigan, received the 2014 International Achievement Award.

The GIA Global Alumni Awards recognize members who exhibit leadership, demonstrate service to the gem and jewelry industry, and actively support the association’s growth through continuing education and innovative programs. The recipients were selected from the  2014 Alumni Chapter Award winners.

International Leadership Award

Austin native Angela Alba graduated magna cum laude from Concordia University in 2001 with bachelors of art degrees in history and behavioral science. She pursued her passion for jewelry by earning the Graduate Diamonds, Graduate Pearls and Accredited Jewelry Professional diplomas from GIA and continues to work on her gem identification course to earn her GG. Alba established her own jewelry line in 2002 and launched an online business in 2010.

Alba, secretary of the Houston Chapter, plays an integral role in spreading word about the chapter and the benefits of attending meetings. She does this through the Houston Texas GIA Alumni Association Facebook page she set up and maintains, by writing newsletters to members and inviting other people in the jewelry industry to attend local meetings. Alba also books speakers for chapter meetings, coordinated the arrangements for a field trip that included a brunch and a museum tour and helped the chapter’s new social coordinator officer plan Houston's first social networking gathering.

Alba, who also drives fellow Austin alums to the Houston chapter meetings, said she enjoys organizing alumni events and helping GIA students achieve their educational goals, often answering questions about GIA, such as the e-learning program, lab classes and scholarships, and encouraging alums to continue their education.

International Achievement Award

Jennifer Cleveland loves the gem and jewelry industry so much, she admits to carrying rocks in her pockets as a child. Joining the family business, Skyline Diamond Setters, was an easy career choice. A GIA education helped prepare her for the many hats she has worn in her 30-plus years at work: office manager, pearl stringing, jewelry sales and most of the gemstone purchases for the store. Cleveland has her Graduate Diamonds and Graduate Pearls diplomas and is close to earning her GG through e-Learning.

Cleveland, secretary of the Michigan Chapter, has worked tirelessly to aid the chapter in two of its core goals: more accommodating meeting places and active recruitment of new members. She is known as a tireless friend of GIA’s Michigan Alumni Chapter. Source: GIA @topic:11


Title: Interview with a Kenyan Miner and Dealer Abstract: Figure 1. Left: These faceted tsavorites were extracted from Miriam Kamau’s mining operation in northern Kenya. Right: Kamau also brought Kenyan red spinel to Tucson. Photos by Kevin Schumacher.
Miriam Kamau, owner of Mimo Gems Traders Ltd. in Nairobi, transformed from an office assistant to a dealer and miner to a representative of her country on the international stage of the colored gemstone trade. Her career has not only changed her life but also inspired many women in Kenya to pursue their dreams in the gem and jewelry industry.

Born and raised in Nairobi, she entered the trade working for an American gem dealer in her hometown. In the beginning, she greeted the clients and took care of errands for her boss. She gradually realized the big fortune these small stones can carry as she passed the stones and money between the dealer and his clients. Kamau started to pay more attention to trading activities in the office and ask more questions. Luckily enough, her boss generously shared his knowledge of the gems he dealt and did not mind her interacting with his clientele and even doing business with them. When he was away and the rest of the office staff was gone for the day, Kamau visited the mining area to talk to the clients, generally women, who brought stones to the office. She learned a lot from these female miners. She also realized she needed to go back to school for a formal education on gemstones. This led her to enroll in courses in Nairobi and Johannesburg to systematically study diamond and colored gemstone identification.

After returning to Kenya, Kamau started her own gem business in Nairobi, buying from the miners and selling wholesale and retail. During this time, she got to know many important people in the industry, including the late Campbell Bridges. Finally, an opportunity came to represent a Kenyan woman dealer who exported stones to Thailand. Kamau, who wanted to travel overseas, did not let this opportunity go. This trip opened her eyes to the world outside of Africa. Her trade contacts then introduced her to the International Colored Gemstone Association, and she became the ICA ambassador to Kenya. In that role, she gained the trust of Kenyan local miners to represent their interests.

Miriam Kamau Looks Back
Miner and dealer Miriam Kamau discusses her entry into the gem trade and her current mining activities in Kenya.
As she seeks to bring added value to the local miners, her own business has expanded. She now has her own tsavorite mine in Kenya. She informed us that the mine’s operation tunnel is about 90 feet deep, and the first extractions have been quite exciting (figure 1, left).

Kamau admits that when she started her own business, she experienced prejudice in the Kenyan trade, which has traditionally been dominated by men. Only very recently did Kenya begin to grant mining licenses to women, which allowed her to own an operation. While it is often considered unsafe for women to work in remote mining areas in Africa, Kamau readily adapted to the bush life and built a thriving business. She now works with her brother and other male miners in the mining operation.

As more women in Kenya learn about Miriam Kamau, many of them ask her for career advice. Kamau is now a key member of a Kenyan association dedicated to empowering women in mining. Kamau helped organize the first gem and jewelry show devoted to Kenyan women in the trade. The second show will take place in July 2018. Kamau is very optimistic about Kenya’s future as a gem trading hub in Africa. She says the government is very supportive, and she sees a lot of positive changes happening in the mining sector. Kamau also brought with her some spinel (figure 1, right) and fancy sapphire from the same area where she mines tsavorite. Source: GIA @topic:7


Title: Large and Fine Demantoid from Russia Abstract: Figure 1. A top-quality 9.49 ct Russian demantoid from the Korkodin mine. The horsetail inclusion under the table is the telltale signature of its origin. Photo by Kevin Schumacher; courtesy of Tsarina Jewels.

The green to yellowish green variety of andradite garnet was first found in the Ural Mountains. It was identified by Finnish mineralogist Nils von Nordensheld in 1864 and presented at the Ural Industrial Exhibition as a new mineral in 1887. Due to the garnet’s high RI and dispersion, it was named demantoid, meaning “diamond-like.”

Figure 2. The Korkodin demantoid mine is an open-pit operation. Trucks transport the ore from the bottom of the pit to the nearby washing plant. Photo by Tao Hsu.
Russia remained the only source for demantoid until the mid-1990s, when the gem was discovered in Africa and later elsewhere. Today, Russian demantoid is still highly desired. At the GJX show, the authors saw an 8.49 ct fine-quality demantoid (figure 1) carried by Tsarina Jewels, the largest demantoid seen by the authors at this year’s Tucson shows. It was from the Korkodin mine, located about 80 km south of Ekaterinburg, one of the two active mining operations in this area (figure 2). The Poldnevaya mine lies about 7 km to the north of Korkodin. Both operations are working on primary demantoid deposits with machinery. Together the two mines supply the majority of Russian demantoid.
Another impressive Russian demantoid was a 6.73 ct stone carried by Constantin Wild at the GJX show. This stone was also of top quality, showing high brilliance and fire. The owner informed the authors that the stone was cut from rough obtained in 2019 and possessed the best color he had seen in this material in decades (see figure 6 in the Tucson Overview).

Figure 3. Demantoid generally occurs as very small grains in the host rock (left). It is very difficult to find large size rough (right) of quality. This makes faceted stones over 1 ct very rare. Left photo by Tao Hsu; right photo courtesy of Constantin Wild.
Since Russian demantoid often occurs as small grains with no well-developed crystal forms in the matrix (figure 3), any finished stone above one carat is considered rare.

Figure 4. Russian demantoid garnet and diamond bracelet set in platinum. The center stone is 3.00 ct, while the accent garnets total 12.20 carats and the accent diamonds 4.18 carats. Photos courtesy of Jeffrey Bilgore.
Illustrating the attention being given to this material, the 2019 AGTA Spectrum Award winner under the classical category featured a perfectly matched suite of 15 standard round brilliant cut Russian demantoid garnets. The bracelet by Jeffrey Bilgore included a 3.00 ct center Russian demantoid accented with 14 smaller Russian demantoids gradually decreasing in size (12.20 carats total) and 14 step-cut (4.18 carats total) diamonds all set in platinum (figure 4). Mr. Bilgore said he considers Russian demantoid to be on par with top gems such as Kashmir sapphire, Burmese ruby, and Colombian emerald. The suite came from the estate of a collector and attracted much attention from gem dealers familiar with Russian demantoids before ultimately being used in this award-winning piece of jewelry. Source: GIA @topic:2


Title: Award-Winning Designer Aims for the ‘Edge of the Industry’ Abstract: Tucson-based jeweler Erik Stewart, GIA GG, honed his CAD and bench skills at GIA before going on to win multiple awards for his “often architectural” designs. Courtesy Erik Stewart

                      Designer Erik Stewart may have debuted in the wholesale world as a JCK Rising Star in Las Vegas two years ago, but his first real foray into the industry goes much further back.

As a child, Stewart tagged along with his mother to the jewelry design classes she taught in the parks and recreation department in the family’s hometown of Tucson, Arizona. As a young teen, tagging along with Mom meant working shows with her – and he did so “begrudgingly.”

“I’ll admit that I was much more interested in being an irresponsible teenager or perhaps entering the minor leagues for baseball at the time,” he laughs.

But at 16, Stewart, who had been practicing bench skills in spite of his all-star dreams, sold one of his own designs.

“I was in awe that someone would pay money for something I created with my mind and hands,” Stewart says. “I became addicted.”

His professional dreams suddenly made an about-face. Supported by his parents – his jeweler mother and architect father – the high school senior decided he needed to round out his industry skills beyond bench and retail, and study gemology.

Stewart began GIA’s distance education courses while working jewelry retail counters in Tucson, then moved to the Institute’s Carlsbad campus to “submerge” himself into the world of like-minded professionals and the jewelry industry culture.

He earned his Graduate Gemologist diploma in 2003, and by that time had also earned a position as a sales representative with Neissing, a German designer. After that came a bench position at Phoenix’s Molina Fine Jewelry, though Stewart plugged away at custom designs in his downtime.

He launched his own line – the Erik Stewart Jewelry Art for the Body Collection – at retail shows in 2005.

Stewart says his “often architectural” style, though it has evolved with time, remains “deeply rooted” in his early professional experiences. “I’m attracted to the minimalist, contemporary and conceptual approach of German designers such as Neissing ‒ and in awe of the attention to the detail and precision of Molina’s Fine Jewelry,” he says.

	The Elizabethan ruff, with “small and precise serpentines,” is featured in Stewart’s palladium “Elizabeth” ring; Arizona turquoise and 0.75 total carats of colored diamonds share the spotlight. The ring earned Stewart a Silver Award from Solidscape’s BaselWorld Design Competition in 2013 “for his flawless execution of a complex ring.” Photo courtesy of Erik Stewart
The Tucson-based designer, who entered the wholesale market in 2012, also uses the skills he honed at GIA every day.

“I work from a conceptual design basis, so finding the gemstones comes second, but the criteria is always color and wearability,” Stewart says. He can narrow down those diamond and gemstone choices remotely, based on their specs alone, and select the best stones for his designs because he understands a gem’s colors, hardness, wearability and ideal applications. He can also “enhance precision and create clean lines” because of his CAD training.

“GIA gave me the knowledge needed to trust myself – I don’t guess, I know,” he says.

Stewart, whose design awards include GIA’s George A. Schuetz Design Contest, the Johnson Matthey New York Sustainable Design Award and the Platinum Innovation Awards, encourages GIA students to “build a network of support” during their time on campus, and to utilize all of the resources available to them.

“I fully took advantage of the design contests, Career Fair and especially the library – I made many appointments to read rare books in the back room,” he says. “And the connections I built in my nine months at GIA, from peers to professionals, continue to carry me forward in ways I never imagined.”

Stewart, who lives in Arizona with his wife, Sara, and the couple’s newborn son, Hudson, says he continues to focus on knowing what makes him different as a designer ‒ and staying true to that.

“That perspective may be different from others because it doesn’t always pay off, at least not right away,” he says. “But it does keep me on the edge of the industry, where I strive to be.”

	This award-winning platinum ring, left – featuring 1.36 total carats of sapphires and 1.35 total carats of diamonds – showcases Stewart’s signature fluted design, which pays homage to the Elizabethan collar, or “ruff.” The ring won both the 2011 Niche Award for Fine Jewelry and earned the 2012 JCK Platinum Innovation Award for Platinum Red Carpet Jewelry (Buyer’s Choice). The palladium “Phoenix” cufflinks, left, are made of 950 palladium with 18K yellow gold accents set with padparadscha sapphires. The cufflinks, along with a matching ring, took first place at GIA’s 2008 George A. Schuetz Jewelry Design Contest. Photos courtesy of Erik Stewart Source: GIA @topic:11


Title: Iolite Quality Factors Abstract: The cutter took full advantage of this iolite’s color and transparency, fashioning it into a uniquely carved gem, ready for use in jewelry. – Lydia Dyer, Gem courtesy John Dyer & Co.

                      Affordable and attractive, iolite can be used in many types of jewelry. It’s sometimes found in large sizes and beautiful, intense colors that satisfy even the most discriminating colored gemstone connoisseur.

Color
Iolite possesses two distinctive features—a beautiful, violetish blue through slightly violetish blue hue derived from iron and a striking, eye-visible pleochroism. Its pleochroic colors differ with its bodycolor. Iolites that appear violet display light violet, dark violet, and yellow-brown pleochroic colors.  Bluish iolites display colorless to yellow, blue-gray, and dark violet pleochroic colors. From some angles, then, a bluish iolite can actually appear completely colorless or yellow, and a violetish iolite can look brown. Some gems can look grayish or nearly colorless.

	This attractive iolite was skillfully cut to show its best color face-up.
Clarity
Iolite is commonly transparent, with relatively few inclusions. It can be found in all shapes and has even been carved to beautiful effect.

Iolite can contain inclusions that cause various phenomena. Occasionally, iolites with long, parallel, tubular inclusions are found. When the cut is oriented properly, these stones yield cat’s-eye gems.

Iolite containing numerous metallic, plate-like inclusions can be cut to display a sparkly effect known as aventurescence. When the platelets are brownish or reddish in color, the gem might be marketed as “bloodshot” iolite.

	The brownish and reddish inclusions make this a “bloodshot” iolite.
Cut
Because it is commonly transparent with relatively few inclusions, iolite is most often faceted. However, iolites can be cut into cabochons or carvings as well. They are frequently seen as beads, especially when the material is of somewhat lower quality.

Carat Weight
The size range for a fashioned iolite is anywhere from 1 to 10 carats, but fine iolites over five carats are rare. Source: GIA @topic:1


Title: GSA 2018 Report Abstract: Figure 1. Each year, the GIA booth at the GSA exhibition hall attracts participants from all over the world. Here, Paula Rucinski (left) and Dona Dirlam (right) speak with a visitor to the booth. Photo by Cathy Jonathan.

The Geological Society of America (GSA) annual meeting took place in Indianapolis November 4–7. GIA participated as both exhibitor and technical session holder. In total, 21 presenters reported new findings on a broad range of research topics. The GIA booth and the two technical sessions attracted a large audience with an interest in gemology (figure 1).

Figure 2. Richard Berg from the Montana Bureau of Mines and Geology presented his poster on Montana sapphires at the GSA annual meeting. Photo by Tao Hsu.
The “Gemological Research in the 21st Century” technical program included both poster and speaker sessions. Seven posters were presented on the second day of the conference (figure 2). Kyle Tollefson (Louisiana State University) and Phillip Ihinger (University of Wisconsin-Eau Claire) reported their characterization study on watermelon tourmaline. Their spectroscopic measurements showed that the chromophores Fe and Mn correlate to green and pink colorations, as expected. The infrared spectroscopy and microprobe analyses showed similar trends of hydroxyl occupancy on the V site in this type of tourmaline. Nikita Kepezhinskas (University of Florida) presented the results of petrographic, geochemical, and isotopic analyses of moissanite and diamond from the shoshonite dike in eastern Finnmark, Norway. The shoshonite host of these minerals is a type of Mg- and K-rich basaltic rock, which is indicative of a subduction-modified mantle source. This study proved that carbonate recycling into the lower mantle through subduction, followed by the formation of superdeep diamonds, moissanite, and other carbides, plays an important role in the global carbon cycle. Paul Johnson and Kyaw Soe Moe (GIA, New York) showed an unusual find of a natural diamond with a cuboctahedral growth habit. This diamond should alert gem labs to the fact that cuboctahedral growth does not occur just in HPHT synthetic diamonds. This special diamond also indicated a potentially very interesting and uncommon growth history before it was lifted to the surface of the earth. Richard Berg (Montana Bureau of Mines and Geology) described significant magmatic splitting of sapphire xenocrysts in basaltic trachyandesite sill. Through extremely careful examination of in situ sapphires in their host rock and advanced instrument analyses such as SEM, XRD, and EDS, he was able to assemble a sequence of what happened to the sapphires before emplacement into their current location. Ying Song (China University of Petroleum) introduced a newly designed and developed computer-vision based intelligent RI measuring system. This system aimed to enhance the clarity and efficiency of RI and other optical measurements. Classroom demonstration, rapid crystal identification, optic axis characterization, and crystal orientation determination are the four modes currently implemented in this instrument. Ziyin Sun and coauthors (GIA, Carlsbad) displayed their study on chromophore strength in pyralspite garnet. Since multiple color-causing elements work singularly or together to color garnets, the authors isolated each of them and performed quantitative study by experimenting with various combinations of these chromophores’ UV-Vis-NIR spectra under different lighting conditions. Aaron Palke and coauthors (GIA, Carlsbad) reported on a Montana sapphire study aiming to unravel its gemological mysteries. Based on their inclusion and geochemical study, the authors proposed a new model of sapphire formation through peritectic melting reactions during partial melting of an Al-rich protolith.

Figure 3. Presenters, guests, and advocates from the GSA poster and speaker sessions. Left to right: Peter Heaney, Dona Dirlam, Mandy Krebs, Richard Berg, Mike Breeding, Jim Shigley, Tingting Gu, Tyler Sundell, Rachelle Turnier, Nancy McMillan, Evan Smith, Chunhui Zhou, Barbara Dutrow, and Sally Eaton-Magaña. Photo by Tao Hsu.
This year’s speaker session attracted 14 presenters from multiple research institutes and universities (figure 3). Mike Breeding (GIA, Carlsbad) kicked off the session with an overview of colored diamonds formed at different depths within the earth. He elaborated on the defects that cause diamond’s blue, pink, yellow, brown, and green colors. The audience was given a grand tour of colored diamond formation, from the transition zone all the way to the surface of the earth. Next, Sally Eaton-Magaña (GIA, Carlsbad) presented her photoluminescence study on pink diamonds based on GIA’s uniquely large database. She explained the cause of pink color as a 550 nm absorption band and explored the difference of pink coloration in various diamond types. She also showed some visual clues that can help to separate pink diamonds from different sources. Tyler Sundell (Missouri State University) talked about the feasibility of using time-of-flight secondary ion mass spectrometry (ToF-SIMS) to image diamonds, especially on their trace-element composition and isotope analyses. Evaluation of this method focuses on its spatial resolution and analytical precision. Results show that this method lacks the precision to quantify carbon isotope values. Karen Smit (GIA, New York) presented her research on natural black diamonds found in the billion-year-old Marange conglomerate (Zimbabwe). Diamonds from this source are full of fractures and can be easily treated to achieve a more valuable fancy black color grade, which makes identification challenging without characterization of the natural stones. Visual observation of graphite grain size and the detection of methane associated with the micro-inclusions are necessary to distinguish between natural and treated Marange diamonds. Evan Smith (GIA, New York) delivered his research on carbonatitic melt inclusions he discovered in partially healed cracks within a CLIPPIR diamond (for more on these diamonds, see Winter 2017 G&G, pp. 388–403). The characterization of these inclusions is consistent with carbonatitic melt, providing direct evidence of this melt’s existence at mantle depths. Russell Harmon (North Carolina State University) evaluated the potential of handheld laser-induced breakdown spectroscopy (LIBS) to identify garnets associated with kimberlites, the host rock of most diamond deposits. This study aims to test whether this instrument will help diamond exploration in the field. Initial results showed that it works very well on garnets from the South Africa kimberlite field but not as well on some other samples, especially those from extensive solid solution. Rod Smith (Geological Survey of Canada) presented field and lab research on the Banks Island region in the western Canadian Arctic, aiming to find promising diamond-bearing kimberlite. Based on newly found stream sediments and till samples, geothermometry data, and Lu-Hf geochronology results, the research group demonstrated the need to continue the search for potential diamond-bearing kimberlite in this region and presented a potentially unknown kimberlite glacial dispersal model. Tingting Gu (GIA, New York) talked about inclusion studies on type IaB diamonds. This study offered the first piece of evidence that hydrous phosphate can subduct to the depth of the transition zone. It also showed the first ringwoodite found in diamond, which proved that this diamond formed in the deep mantle.
The second half of the speaker session started with Mandy Krebs (GIA, New York), who showed the application of Sr-Pb isotope data to colored gemstones’ country-of-origin determination. The analyses were done by thermal ionization mass spectrometry (TIMS) to precisely measure the Sr-Pb isotope compositions in gem corundum for the first time. The separation is promising for certain sources but less so for others. Rachelle Turnier (University of Wisconsin-Madison) used Raman spectroscopy to evaluate the depth of zircon inclusion formation. These zircons are inclusions in corundum sourced from different deposits. Her study is based on an ideal linear upshift of Raman band of zircon with increasing pressure. However, many other factors can influence this ideal situation, such as radiation damage, stress, and internal heterogeneity. With careful consideration of these influencing factors, using Raman as a zircon barometer can help to distinguish corundum from various sources. William Nachlas (Syracuse University) presented the three different formation mechanisms for rutilated quartz. These include the overgrowth/entrapment mechanism, the precipitation mechanism, and the grain boundary migration mechanism, each with different relative timing of quartz and rutile growth. All three mechanisms were reproduced with well-designed experiments. Peter Heaney (Penn State University) explored the reason behind the striking iridescence displayed by some ochre-colored botryoidal goethite. Dr. Heaney applied focused ion beam (FIB) milling and scanning electron microscopy (SEM) to zoom in on the internal structure of this gem. With these powerful tools, some subsurface void layers were revealed to be responsible for the angle-independent iridescence. The origin of these voids remains a mystery. Barbara Dutrow (Louisiana State University) reported a geochemistry study on some uncommon tourmaline + corundum–bearing rocks from Afghanistan’s Badakhshan Province with randomly oriented phlogopites as the matrix. Major, minor, and trace elements were measured with electron microprobe and laser ablation–inductively coupled plasma–mass spectrometry (LA-ICP-MS). The results indicate the involvement of boron-bearing fluids at the beginning of tourmaline growth and continuous infiltration of this fluid. The bulk composition of this rock is consistent with metasomatism of a clay-containing metacarbonate rock with a metamorphic overprint. Chunhui Zhou (GIA, New York) gave the first-ever pearl presentation in this technical session. Three American freshwater cultured pearls were sliced open and their oxygen isotopes were analyzed using SIMS, aiming to reconstruct the ambient water temperature when the nacre formed. This method is very useful in terms of growth cycle determination and can potentially shine a light on pearl origin determination. Source: GIA @topic:7


Title: Macedonian Ruby Specimens Abstract: This 9.93 ct ruby cabochon from Macedonia was seen at the Jewellery & Gem Fair – Europe in Freiburg, Germany. Photo by Russell Shor/GIA.

	The Macedonian town of Prilep has been a source of marble since antiquity, even supplying some Roman settlements. Rubies have occasionally been found within the Bianco Sivec quarry, according to gem dealer Denis Gravier (Gravier & Gemmes, Poncin, France). Although Prilep is mainland Europe’s only known natural ruby source, only in the past 15 years has there been an effort to mine the gems. Gravier offered several rubies from the Prilep quarry at the March 19–22 Jewellery & Gem Fair – Europe in Freiburg, Germany, including the 9.93 ct cabochon seen above. None of the specimens were faceted. Gravier said the deposit produces comparatively few gem-quality rubies, and most are too cloudy for faceting. The best ones have a distinct “raspberry” color. It is unknown whether any of the material is heat treated. Macedonian craftsmen have developed a local industry using these rubies in jewelry and objets d’art. Source: GIA @topic:1


Title: Preview of Nature Art Science with Paula Crevoshay Abstract: Figure 1. Left: Paula Crevoshay's Siberian tigress Baianai incorporates aquamarine eyes with black diamond pupils, 286 white diamonds, 168 cognac diamonds, and a 1.05 ct pink Oregon opal in 18K gold. Right: The Morning Glory brooch contains 272 Yogo sapphires, 90 purple sapphires, 45 pink sapphires (2.75 carats), and a 2.92 ct central moonstone, all in 18K gold. Photos by Kevin Schumacher.
Paula Crevoshay described 2018 as an “opulent year” and showed us several new pieces that celebrate nature. Her remarkable use of color draws in and enchants the viewer. She is working on a museum exhibition concept entitled Nature Art Science, with the intent of capturing how art is inspired by nature and how science is essential in the execution of art. Her work illustrates this concept, as the lifelike flora and fauna creations maximize the use of color and light while being solidly engineered and highly versatile.

Crevoshay displayed several realistic pieces depicting endangered animals, including the Siberian tigress Baianai (figure 1, left), whose mesmerizing eyes are composed of aquamarine with black diamond pupils. Baianai’s nose is a hand-carved pink Oregon opal, and the rest of the 18K yellow gold jewel contains 286 white and 168 cognac diamonds.  The hardware is engineered to allow the piece to be worn in many different ways. There are lush new flowers from Crevoshay such as the Morning Glory brooch (figure 1, right), which draws the observer into its center with an adularescent moonstone surrounded by a sea of 272 blue Yogo sapphires. The hue shifts toward purple and pink with the use of 90 lavender and 45 fuchsia sapphires from the tips of the petals to the center.

New Work from Paula Crevoshay
Celebrated designer Paula Crevoshay explores the themes behind some of her more recent work.
Crevoshay’s first cuff of 2018 (figure 2, left) is titled Moon Glow and features moonstones as well as blue zircon, iolite, and blue sapphire. She likened it to “painting with light.” Another piece that spoke to this concept was a pendant containing a large and exceptionally fine 30.64 ct Ethiopian opal (figure 2, right). The flanking of the opal’s intense play-of-color hues with like-colored surrounding stones such as blue zircon, pink tourmaline, tsavorite garnet, apatite, and ruby made for a stunning and very aesthetically pleasing piece. Both works showcased many of the most popular hues we observed throughout the AGTA show.

Figure 2. Left: Crevoshay's Moon Glow cuff contains 72.28 carats of moonstone, 36.68 carats of blue zircon, 8.58 carats of iolite, and 3.47 carats of blue sapphire in 18K gold. Right: The Gelila pendant features a 30.64 ct Ethiopian opal surrounded by blue zircon, pink tourmaline, tsavorite, apatite, ruby, and diamond melee. Photos by Albert Salvato.
Talking with the artist, we learned that her father was an engineer, an exposure that led her to design all of her own mechanisms (such as hinged bales), allowing the pieces to be worn in many ways, such as a pendant or brooch. From an artistic standpoint, Crevoshay has drawn inspiration from Schlumberger, Fabergé, and Lalique. Their influence is evident in her designs that are simultaneously intricate and fluid, while focusing on the use of light with the color of the incorporated materials. From the mesmerizing and magnificent details such as the hand-carved Oregon pink opal nose of her tigress to side stones mimicking the play-of-color of a precious opal, it is easy to understand why her work has attracted such a following. Source: GIA @topic:9


Title: The First Transparent Faceted Grandidierite, from Sri Lanka Abstract: Gemological, chemical, and spectroscopic properties are presented for the first known transparent faceted grandidierite. This jewelry-quality 0.29 ct stone was fashioned from rough reportedly found in the Kolonne area of Sri Lanka. The greenish blue borosilicate has refractive indices of 1.583 to 1.622, which correlate to a low iron content of 1.71 wt.%  FeO and readily separate it from the gem material closest in properties, lazulite. Source: GIA @topic:2


Title: Rose Channels in Ruby Abstract: Rose channels in a 0.5 ct ruby. Photomicrograph by Aamir Sayed; field of view 0.75 mm.
The author recently examined a 0.5 ct pear-shaped ruby measuring 6 × 4 mm that contained twinning planes and hollow channels known as Rose channels (see above). Because the Rose channels were hollow and empty, they had a refractive index of 1 (the RI of air), while the RI of the surrounding host ruby was 1.76–1.77. The contrasting refractive indices resulted in high optical relief, making the Rose channels easily visible. These linear inclusions are common in natural corundum and were once thought to be boehmite needles (F. Notari et al., “‘Boehmite needles’ in corundum are Rose channels,” Fall 2018 G&G, p. 257). Source: GIA @topic:3


Title: Color-Change Garnets from Tanzania Abstract: Figure 1. This 7.61 ct “pastel pyrope” shows a strong pink color in warm incandescent light and a strong purple in cool LED light. Photos by Duncan Pay/GIA; courtesy of Jason Doubrava Gems & Minerals.

At the Riverpark Inn (Pueblo) show, Todd Wacks (Tucson Todd’s Gems,Tucson and Vista, California) and Jason Doubrava (Jason Doubrava Gems & Minerals, Poway, California) showed us interesting color-change or color-shift garnets from Tanzania (figure 1). According to them, these gems were mined in Morogoro, Tanzania, back in 1988, and documented the same year (see C.M. Stockton, “Pastel pyropes,” Summer 1988 G&G, pp. 104–106). The material resembled rhodolite rough and contained fine needle-like inclusions—most likely rutile.

	 Todd’s Gems

Todd Wacks outlines how garnets believed to be “regular” Tanzanian rhodolite when discovered in the late 1980s turned out to be rare color-change pyropes instead. In this video, he demonstrates their strikingly intense pink-to-purple color change under different light sources.
The gems were pinkish purple in daylight and showed a color change from intense pink in warm incandescent light to purple—almost like a fine amethyst—in cool LED light. Wacks said the larger stones display the most pronounced color change. Very similar color change phenomena have been reported for other purple “pastel pyropes” from Tanzania, Sri Lanka, and Madagascar.

The rough had been stuck in a safe deposit box for years, he said, because most potential buyers assumed it was rhodolite, saw the inclusions, and lost interest. A consortium including Doubrava, Wacks, and well-known gem artist Meg Berry recently acquired the 2–4 kg of rough, cut a few pieces, and discovered the color change. Wacks has been promoting the gem since then.

The group sent samples to Dr. George Rossman (California Institute of Technology, Pasadena), San Diego gemologist Kirk Feral, and GIA. According to Wacks, the gems are approximately 80% pyrope, 10% spessartine, and 10% almandine, with an RI of 1.736. (This material will be the subject of a more detailed paper in the Winter 2015 G&G.)

	vdAaco

Jewelry designer Mary van der Aa presents her jewelry designs, which feature a variety of gems including “hot pink” tourmalines from well-known mines in San Diego County and color-change pyrope garnets from Tanzania.
Sharing booth space with Wacks was colleague and jewelry designer Mary van der Aa (vdAaco, Vista, California). She produces jewelry designs for many of the gems he cuts, including pastel pyropes and pink tourmalines from some of the mines in San Diego County (figure 2). Her jewelry also features stones cut by renowned gem artist Meg Berry.

Figure 2. This hand-fabricated 14K rose gold and yellow gold pendant by Mary van der Aa features a 6 ct “hot pink” tourmaline from the Stewart mine, cut by Todd Wacks. Photo by Duncan Pay/GIA; courtesy of vdAaco. Source: GIA @topic:2


Title: Kunzite Quality Factors Abstract: This kunzite crystal is accompanied by faceted kunzites ranging in weight from 12.47 to 19.32 carats. - Robert Weldon

                      Kunzite can be found in a wide variety of jewelry styles to suit every buyer. Always attractive, it suffers somewhat from a lack of consumer recognition. However, this can translate to reasonable prices at the counter. In its largest sizes and finest colors, kunzite appeals to discriminating collectors.

Color
Kunzite is the pink-to-violet variety of the mineral spodumene, and gets its color from manganese. It’s most often found in shades of pale pink, but more vivid colors are possible and it can achieve rare hues of vivid violet to purple.

	The color of kunzite can range from very pale to medium shades of pink and violet. In rare cases, kunzite is found in more intense hues. - Robert Weldon, courtesy Pala International
Kunzite’s color can be enhanced by irradiation followed by heating. Whether natural or enhanced, the color can fade when exposed to heat and intense light. It’s a good idea to store kunzite jewelry in a closed jewelry box or case when it’s not being worn.

	These kunzites show the gem’s lovely shades of pink. - Robert Weldon
Kunzite is pleochroic, which means it can display different colors in different crystal directions. Kunzite displays its best, most intense color down the length of its crystals.

	Kunzite’s color is most concentrated down the length of its crystal. This crystal from the Oceanview mine in Pala, California, displays a vivid purple. - Brendan Laurs
Clarity
Kunzite crystals often have relatively few inclusions, so “clean” finished gems in jewelry are common.

	This kunzite’s cut shows off its inclusion-free nature. - Robert Weldon

	The cutter of this kunzite made creative use of the needle-like inclusions by making them into a design element. - Orasa Weldon
Cut
Kunzite can present problems for cutters. It has two directions of cleavage, which means that the gem can split cleanly along those directions. As a result, kunzite has been known to simply fall apart from the pressure applied during faceting. In addition, kunzite’s color is usually concentrated down its length, or C-axis. Cutters must factor these properties into their plans when fashioning gems.

Kunzite appears in a wide variety of shapes and cutting styles. Because many crystals are relatively inclusion-free, step-cut stones are fairly common.

	This kunzite is a modified step cut. - Maha Tannous, courtesy Roland Reed

	This round kunzite displays a lovely, lively brilliant cut.
Skilled cutters have fashioned kunzite into every imaginable shape and style. Some have even carved the gem. Also, many kunzites are cut deep to maximize the color.

	These gems were carved by Dalan Hargrave. The gem in the center is a kunzite. The others are varieties of quartz: #2 is a citrine and #4 is an ametrine. - Eric Welch, courtesy Dalan Hargrave
Carat Weight
Kunzite is often found in large sizes. The Smithsonian Institution houses a faceted 880-carat heart-shaped example.

	This kunzite from Minas Gerais, Brazil, weighs 648.10 carats. It’s shown next to a dime to demonstrate scale. - Robert Weldon, courtesy M. Meienhalder Source: GIA @topic:1


Title: Books: Damiani: Alchemy of Desire Abstract: By Cristina Morozzi, 240 pp., hardcover, illus., publ. by Rizzoli, New York, 2014. US$100.00.

              This special edition celebrates 90 years of history at Damiani, the Valenza-based jewel house established in 1924. Visually rich, the book presents the multigenerational evolution of this design house known internationally for its elegantly bedecked celebrity ambassadors and expressive, handmade designs.

To honor the landmark, the book introduces the Damiani 90th Collection early on, comprising 10 exceptional pieces that mark each decade from the 1920s to the 2010s. Period photographs and sketches enlivened by the artists’ comments—some with more exclamation points than a Facebook post—frame these magnificent pieces as reflections of their time, yet pulsing with a steady beat of contemporary energy and flair.

Woven throughout the book is the thread of an enduring family tradition that is now steered by three siblings who bring complementary skills and experience to the table. Edited by Cristina Morozzi, a writer and art director, the book presents the triumvirate in words and photographs as unified in strength, dedication, and dignity.

The family story begins with master goldsmith Enrico Grassi Damiani, who was said to create jewels for the leading families and wealthy patrons of his day, but about whom we learn little. With succession passing to Enrico’s son Damiano in 1953, the company entered a new period of growth marked by the younger Damiani’s innovations in design, research, and marketing, bringing expansion and heightened recognition to the brand. Although the book’s testimonials paint an incomplete picture of the man, the reader gains a sense of Damiano Grassi Damiani’s eye for perfection and his pursuit of it, embodied by a strong-willed, passionate leader who was able to successfully meld innovation with the new order of style.

Since Damiano’s sudden death in the mid-1990s, his three children, Giorgio, Guido, and Silvia Grassi Damiani, have continued the Damiani tradition. In 2007, the company went public.

The book offers a bird’s-eye view of Damiani’s other notable success: associating its brand with iconic ambassadors of style and glitz. Beginning with Isabella Rossellini as the face of Damiani in the 1980s, the house has also had brand ambassador and other connections with Sophia Loren, Sharon Stone, Gwyneth Paltrow, and Jennifer Aniston, all of whom are pictured in glorious Damiani jewelry. At awards shows and A-lister parties, the Damiani-adorned include other celebrities from Paris Hilton to Dita Von Teese.

Brad Pitt’s D.Side collection with Damiani is also featured, which, in a bizarre (and unmentioned) alchemy of its own, was the upside of a legal dispute between the company and the actor along with Aniston, Pitt’s former wife.

While this is an upbeat book in which jewelry reigns as the stuff of dreams and glamour, it also highlights the company’s social responsibility efforts. This is shown by Damiani’s work with Sharon Stone and a nongovernmental organization that has helped bring drinking water to Africans in remote villages in diamond-mining regions.

Notwithstanding the numerous celebrity photos, nearly all in color, the real stars of this show are the pieces themselves. Following a chapter devoted to the unprecedented 18 Diamonds International Awards bestowed on Damiani jewelry, beginning in 1976 with the Shark bracelet designed by Damiano’s wife, Gabriella, the book concludes with a chapter titled “Masterpieces.” Among the pieces that pulse with emotion, boundary-pushing craftsmanship, and staggering beauty are the dreamy “Mediterranea” cuff bracelet, the “Cincillà” collier of diamonds set in burnished gold that evokes a fur neck wrap, the lava-inspired “Vulcania” that practically erupts on the décolletage of the glitterati, and the “Peacock” necklace aglow in sapphires, emeralds, and brilliant diamonds.

Jewelry enthusiasts, stylists, and historians interested in high-fashion jewelry design will be rewarded by this celebration of a remarkable entrepreneurial family and its eye-popping creations. Source: GIA @topic:6


Title: U.S. Seasonal Shopping Diversifies Away from “Black Friday” Abstract: This necklace and ring, which consists of 11 translucent green jadeite cabochons, sold for a record $11.8 million at Tiancheng, a Hong Kong auction house, on Dec. 7. Photo courtesy Tiancheng

                      While retail analysts puzzle over the reported steep drop in post-Thanksgiving shopping numbers, online sales have risen strongly and there is growing evidence that seasonal buying may be becoming more diffused over a variety of retail channels. Indeed, indications point to a good season for U.S. jewelers, which account for 38% to 40% of world sales.

The National Retail Federation (NRF) reported that Black Friday – the day that typically opens the holiday shopping season – saw a 5.2% drop in traffic from 2013, with consumers planning to spend an average of 6.4% less. The NRF notes, however, that shopping is a 24/7 deal and more and more consumers have taken to smartphones, tablets and online services to make purchases.

Online purchases during Thanksgiving weekend and “Cyber Monday” rose 17% from 2013, according to comScore, the ecommerce research organization. Other reports noted that the growth in online sales came mainly from traditional retailers who have improved their online selection and buying experience.

Additionally, the movement to buy from local merchants appeared to gain strength this season, which could be one reason for the positive numbers reported by Centurion Luxury Jewelry Index. Centurion noted that more than 43% of luxury jewelers surveyed reported sales increases greater than 10% while another 23.5% logged sales increases between 1% and 10%. Some 13% said sales ran even with last year and 10% reported slight declines.

The survey also found that many shoppers, who traditionally waited until the final week before Christmas to buy, were making their purchases earlier.

A study by the U.S. Bureau of Labor Statistics, reported by Idex, on who buys jewelry indicated one obvious fact: The wealthiest buy the most. Those earning $150,000 or more a year bought 23% of the jewelry sold in the U.S. The study also reported, however, that those households earning between $40,000 and $90,000 yearly bought 42% of jewelry sold in the country.

Publicly traded retail jewelers reported mixed results for the third quarter of the calendar year, which ended Nov. 1.

Signet Jewelers, which operates Kay Jewelers, Jared Galleria and the recently acquired Zale Corp. in the U.S., reported overall same store sales growth of 4.2% and a 96% jump in online revenues against the same quarter of 2013. Online sales, however, remained a small part of Signet’s operation, accounting for sales of $44.8 million against total revenues of $1.18 billion. The Sterling brands saw a 6.8% sales increase, while Zales’ logged a decrease of 0.9%. Signet, which operates a diamond manufacturing plant in Botswana, also announced it has been named a De Beers’ sightholder, a move “that will advance its diamond sourcing efforts.”

Tiffany & Co. reported that its third quarter same-store sales rose 4% for the quarter.

By market: North American sales were up 11%; down 3% in the Asia-Pacific region (excluding Japan); down 6% in Japan; and up 2% in Europe.

In China, Chow Tai Fook, the region’s largest retailer, reported that revenues fell 22% for the quarter that ended Sept. 30. The steep decline, however, was measured again the 2013 “gold rush” that followed an abrupt decline in the price of gold. By contrast, demand for gem-set jewelry increased 25%.

AUCTIONS: The auctions have continued their record-breaking sales this fall.

Sotheby’s was expecting $15 million for a GIA-graded 9.75 carat (ct.) Fancy Vivid blue diamond from the estate of Mrs. Paul Mellon that went up for auction Nov. 21 in New York. It wound up getting more than twice that amount from a Hong Kong buyer: $32.6 million.

At $3.38 million per carat, it is far and away the highest per-carat price ever paid for any gemstone (the previous record was $2.3 million for a vivid pink diamond). It is also the highest price ever achieved by a blue diamond and the second highest price ever paid for any gem.

The buyer, not named by Sotheby’s, issued a statement that it would be named the Zoe Diamond.

Four days later in Hong Kong, Christie’s sold a 2.09 ct. Fancy red heart shape diamond, graded by GIA, for $5.09 million or $2.44 million per carat. It was the highest price ever paid for a red diamond at auction.

On Dec. 7, Tiancheng, the Hong Kong auction house, sold a cabochon jadeite necklace and ring for a record $11.8 million. The suite contained 11 translucent green jadeite cabochons, the largest a pendent measuring 25.10 x 20.39 x 8.55mm.

Gemfields’ second auction of rubies from its Montepuez mine in Mozambique achieved a record $698 per carat and saw its largest find to date, a 40.28 ct high quality ruby, go to a New York gem dealer.

The company sold more than 63,000 carats of high quality material for $43 million at its Dec. 8 Singapore auction. Fifty dealers from around the world bid on the rubies that were divided into 41 lots. When the bids were tallied, 35 of the lots met their reserve price and were sold to the high bidders.

The large ruby went for an undisclosed price to a dealer from New York, said Vincent Pardieu, GIA senior manager of field gemology, who noted that the company had named it the “Rhino Ruby” to raise the awareness about conservation issues in Africa.

After the sale, Gemfields announced that a portion of the proceeds from the sale of this gem will go toward efforts to halt poaching of rhinoceros in game preserves along the country’s long border with South Africa.

Gemfields began operating the Montepuez concession in 2012. It conducted its first auction in June 2014 with sales totaling $33.5 million.

	Buyers from KV Gems of Thailand study a ruby parcel at the Gemfields auction in Singapore. Photo by Vincent Pardieu/GIA Source: GIA @topic:8


Title: Supply Chain Transparency and Beneficiation Abstract: Figure 1. Swat Valley emerald yields fine precision-cut stones in small sizes. Photo by Albert Salvato.

As the industry sees technology become more involved in daily gem trading and responsible sourcing has become a hot topic, Jean Claude Michelou, the editor-in-chief of InColor and a veteran of the industry, shared his perspective about supply chain transparency, beneficiation in source countries, and recent development of a Nigerian sapphire mining project.

While the diamond industry is already applying the blockchain concept, Michelou believes it is also the future of the colored stone counterpart. Blockchain and cryptocurrency both have the potential to increase the transparency of the colored stone supply chain by digitally recording all trading activities between different parties involved in the gem trade. He pointed out why miners, dealers, big brands, and consumers all need more transparency. The big jewelry brands especially need transparency to reinforce brand image and consumer confidence. Therefore, he expects the real changes will start with these companies, and gradually other players will be drawn in.

Jean Claude Michelou and the Supply Chain
Jean Claude Michelou reviews factors that he believes will affect the gem and jewelry industry’s supply chain.
Michelou also sees the impending shortening of the supply chain, especially as new technologies such as mobile devices become readily available even in the very remote mining areas. Even though many do not welcome the disappearance of the middleman between the supplier and the end consumers, it is unavoidable if no extra value can be added other than sharing the margin with both ends.

For the past decade, Michelou has taken part in several beneficiation projects initiated by multiple organizations. One project he is highly involved with is in the Swat Valley emerald deposits of Pakistan. Before he joined this project, a partnership between the local miners and a foreign company worked quite well for a three-year period. The company bought all the finished stones that were cut and faceted by local cutters. When this partnership stopped for unknown reasons, Michelou was contacted by locals who knew of his expertise.

	Gemstone Samples from Pakistan and Afghanistan

Gemstone Samples from Pakistan and Afghanistan
Jean Claude Michelou displays emerald from Pakistan’s Swat Valley and lapis lazuli from Afghanistan.
There are three mines in Swat Valley. The one that this project is working on has about 80 to 100 individual tunnels. Trained local women, usually the wives of miners, can handle 1.5–3.0 ct round brilliant cuts very well. Michelou became the liaison between them and a luxury jewelry brand in Europe that offered these women training and paid them a $500 per month salary. If these rough emeralds were transported to Jaipur for faceting, the cost would in fact be lower. However, the luxury brands are willing to pay more to guarantee a transparent supply chain since it enhances their brand image for consumers who care about where the stones are from. It also improves their reputation with the local people. Even though many rough stones are still exported to other countries for further processing, at least a portion of them stay in Pakistan for services that benefit the community through employment and added value to the resource (figure 1).

Emerald Deposits of Pakistan’s Swat Valley
Jean Claude Michelou recounts mining and beneficiation efforts at the emerald mines in Pakistan.
Finally, Michelou talked about his involvement in a Nigerian sapphire mining venture. Although the project was delayed for eight months, it will be a large-scale operation with two washing plants. The first plant will have a washing capacity of 50 tons per hour. From his time spent in Nigeria and Pakistan, Michelou has rich experience working with the people at the source. He said that understanding the local culture is very important for any company or individual wanting to start a gem mining or trading enterprise in these source countries. His personal experience has told him that trying to adapt the local people to the Western way of doing business is a challenge, especially at the beginning stage of the collaboration. One must gradually prove to the locals that a different approach can produce results that will benefit them tremendously, and this will help to change their mindset.

Sapphire Mining in Nigeria
Jean Claude Michelou discusses a new large-scale sapphire mining venture in Nigeria. Source: GIA @topic:10