Title: An Update on Sapphires with Unstable Color Abstract: Figure 1. A padparadscha sapphire (3.54 ct) submitted to the GIA laboratory increased its orange color during the color stability test. If left in the dark for an extended period of time, the color could become less orange or even go to straight pink. This can be replicated by exposing the sapphire to intense LED illumination. This stone would be characterized as a padparadscha sapphire because the pink-orange color after the stability test is acceptable. Photos by Diego Sanchez.
GIA has been performing color stability testing on some sapphires for decades (Crowningshield, 1969). More recently, the stability test has been implemented to identify pink sapphires that can be charged with UV light to create a temporary change of color into the orangy pink to pinkish orange range of padparadscha sapphires or even more orange in appearance. A few hours of exposure to intense incandescent illumination will cause the unstable orange component to fade away, returning the stone to a pink appearance. A sapphire will only be characterized as a padparadscha if the color is acceptable after this stability test. Temporary, unstable orangy pink to pinkish orange coloration does not qualify for the padparadscha characterization if the stone shows coloration outside of this range after the stability test. This change will also occur upon exposure to sunlight, although it takes longer. The color stability test and observations above are described in some detail by Nassau and Valente (1987), Krzemnicki et al. (2018), Smith et al. (2019), Hughes (2022), Wang et al. (2022), and Tsai et al. (2022).
However, GIA has observed that some sapphires react to the color stability test by gaining orange or yellow coloration upon exposure to incandescent light (figure 1). Some pink sapphires might shift to a padparadscha color or even to pure orange, and the saturation of pale yellow sapphires can increase (figure 2).

Figure 2. Any color-unstable sapphire will exhibit the behavior of gaining yellow or orange color during the stability test if starting from the ground state, such as this yellow sapphire (0.64 ct) and padparadscha sapphire (0.89 ct). The color produced from charging with a UV light is also shown. Photos by Diego Sanchez (top row) and Adriana Gudino (bottom row).
This orange intensifying reaction is due to the small component of UV light present in the incandescent light used. The UV component creates unstable color centers at the same time they are being destroyed by visible wavelengths of light. If one of these sapphires is stored in a dark place for an extended period, it will fade to the ground state, typically purplish pink, pink, or pale yellow. This ground state can also be achieved by heating (>150°–300°C) or exposure to intense white LED light with no UV component. Subsequent exposure to any light source containing UV—including sunlight—will again show the orange or yellow color (figure 3). This behavior of gaining color during the stability test has been observed in all color-unstable sapphires used in this research project after fading to their ground state under intense LED illumination or when left in the dark. While this is not part of GIA’s normal testing procedures for color-unstable sapphires, it is expected that any color-unstable sapphire could behave similarly and gain color during the stability test to some extent, depending on its initial color (e.g., if left in the dark for extended time). Further, color instability may not always be identified by the stability test if the initial color is close to that produced by exposure to incandescent light. The property of changing color with exposure to UV is referred to as tenebrescence, or reverse photochromism. Tenebrescent stones are known to fade back to their original color when exposed to sunlight.

Figure 3. For this color-unstable beryllium-diffused sapphire (1.94 ct), the stability test produced a color similar to that seen after exposure to intense sunlight. A similar effect was observed when the sapphire was set in a simple ring and worn by author AP’s wife for five days. While the color after the stability test might have been acceptable for padparadscha, this characterization does not apply to beryllium-diffused sapphires. Photos by Diego Sanchez and Adriana Gudino (bottom right).
These observations raise an important question about how gemological laboratories should determine the color of tenebrescent sapphires, and which color should be used to describe the stone. In GIA’s experiments, the color observed after the color stability test is very similar to what was observed after exposure to daylight, which would be expected if set in jewelry and worn frequently. Given this, and given the need for a consistent and easily accessible standard, the color after the incandescent light stability test is the color indicated by GIA on colored stone reports for these sapphires. This is the case regardless of whether a sapphire loses or gains yellow/orange color during the test. Full results of GIA’s research into this important matter are currently being prepared for publication in Gems & Gemology in the near future. Source: GIA @topic:3


Title: Conference Report: 11th Annual Sinkankas Symposium Abstract: Robert Weldon discusses ruby photography at the 2013 Sinkankas Symposium in Carlsbad, California on April 6. Photo by Tao Hsu.

                      The 2013 Sinkankas Symposium was held April 6 at GIA’s world headquarters in Carlsbad, California. The annual symposium honoring John Sinkankas was organized by the San Diego Mineral & Gem Society (SDMG) and GIA. Ruby was the theme of the conference, which drew more than 150 attendees.

Following convener Roger Merk’s opening remarks, Dr. George Harlow, curator of earth and planetary sciences at the American Museum of Natural History in New York, gave the first presentation of the day. “The Mineralogy and Geochemistry of Ruby from the Mogok Belt” discussed the geology and trace-element origin indicators of these gems. Dr. Harlow also pointed out that gemological journals should publish full data sets rather than data summaries. Dr. James Shigley, GIA’s distinguished research fellow, summarized the conditions and environments of ruby formation and reviewed the major localities worldwide. Bill Larson of Pala International gave a virtual tour of the world’s important localities and showed outstanding rough samples. Elise Skalwold of Cornell University shared the life story of Dr. Allen M. Bassett, who spent some 30 years in Nepal studying its geology and developing an integrated jewelry industry there. Next, explorer and author Gary Bowersox presented “The Rubies of Afghanistan and Tajikistan,” which featured numerous maps and photos based on more than 40 years of experience traveling in this area. In “Pigeon’s Blood: Burma’s Mogok Ruby Mines,” Richard W. Hughes related the history of operations there and clarified the real meaning of the term “pigeon’s blood,” which is derived not from the blood of pigeons but from the bright red ring in the iris of their eyes.

Nathan Renfro, GIA Carlsbad’s lead analytical specialist of colored stones, explained how to use computer-aided techniques plus spectra-aided color prediction to optimize the face-up color of faceted rubies. Mr. Renfro also shared some fascinating photomicrographs of rare inclusions in rubies. Robert Weldon, GIA’s manager of photography and laboratory publications, reviewed the history of ruby photography and gave the attendees three simple tips on correcting the gem’s color using Adobe Photoshop. GIA’s West Coast identification services director, Shane McClure, concluded the day with a review of ruby treatment techniques such as heating, dyeing, fracture filling, and lattice diffusion. Cal Tech’s Dr. George Rossman was scheduled to be the last speaker of the day but could not attend. Mr. Merk gave a brief summary of Dr. Rossman’s presentation “Why Rubies Are Red” to close the event. Source: GIA @topic:1


Title: Multi-Elemental Diffused and Melt-Grown Synthetic Sapphire Abstract: Figure 1. Top left: Color concentration was seen along the pavilion facet junctions of the synthetic sapphire, and blue halos were shown on the table facet. Top right: A spherical gas bubble was observed. Bottom left: Numerous clouds were visible throughout the stone. Some formed fingerprint-like patterns. Bottom right: Under the DiamondView's short-wave UV radiation, blue fluorescence was absent where there were concentrations of the diffusion color in the stone. Photos by Jonathan Muyal (top and bottom left) and Nicole Ahline (bottom right). Fields of view: 9.61 mm (top left), 1.25 mm (top right), 2.9 mm (bottom left), and 8.58 mm (bottom right).
GIA’s Carlsbad laboratory examined a 4.21 ct faceted blue oval. Standard gemological testing determined that the stone was uniaxial negative and had a refractive index of nε = 1.759 and nω = 1.769, with a corresponding birefringence of 0.010. Hydrostatic specific gravity was measured as 4.00. The stone was inert to long-wave UV and showed medium chalky blue color to short-wave UV. These properties were consistent with heated sapphire, either natural or synthetic. Under magnification and diffused transmitted lighting, a blue color concentration was observed along the facet junctions on both the pavilion and crown facets, along with a few large blue halos on the table facet (figure 1, top left), which indicated that the stone had been titanium diffused (R.E. Kane et al., “The identification of blue diffusion-treated sapphire,” Summer 1990 G&G, pp. 115–133; Summer 2015 GNI, pp. 203–205). Under darkfield lighting, individual large spherical gas bubbles were present (figure 1, top right). Numerous clouds observed throughout much of the stone could have easily been mistaken for natural clouds. Some of them grouped to form natural-looking fingerprint-like inclusions (figure 1, bottom left). The stone’s internal characteristics indicated a melt-grown synthetic origin. However, when immersing in methylene iodide under crossed polarizers and viewing down the optic axis, no Plato lines were observed (see W. Plato, “Oriented lines in synthetic corundum,” Fall 1952 G&G, pp. 223–224). The absence of Plato lines does not rule out flame-fusion growth. The heat from diffusion treatment can reduce the visibility of Plato lines (S. Elen and E. Fritsch, “The separation of natural from synthetic colorless sapphire,” Spring 1999 G&G, pp. 30–41). More advanced testing is needed to reveal all the physical and chemical properties of this unique stone.

Under the short-wave radiation (a 20-nm-wide band centered at 225 nm) in a DiamondView device, the stone displayed a strong chalky blue fluorescence. Hughes and Emmett (2005) concluded that the chalky blue fluorescence was due to isolated Ti4+ ions, or Ti-Al vacancy pairs. The strength of the chalky fluorescence depends on the growth temperature and Ti4+ concentration relative to other impurities. In melt-grown corundum, the high growth temperature allows Ti4+ to pair with Al vacancies more easily than other charge compensating ions; this creates the chalky fluorescence. In contrast, Pairing of Ti4+ with other ions (usually Fe2+ or Mg2+) and the presence of Fe3+ ions prevent fluorescence. That could explain why the chalky fluorescence was not present where the blue diffusion color was concentrated (R. Hughes and J. Emmett, “Heat seeker: UV fluorescence as a gemological tool,” 2005, www.ruby-sapphire.com/heat_seeker_uv_fluorescence.htm).

Laser ablation–inductively coupled plasma–mass spectrometry (LA-ICP-MS) analysis was performed on the girdle of the stone. Three laser ablation spots were drilled six times down into the stone. The concentration vs. depth profile is shown in figure 2. From the surface of the stone to around 180 µm depth, the Be concentration decreased from 76.8 to 13.9 ppma, Mg from 7.8 to 0.8 ppma, Ti from 580 to 391 ppma, Fe from 390 to 83.4 ppma, and Ga from 6.12 to 1.36 ppma. The results confirmed diffusion treatment, not only by Ti and Fe but also by Be, Mg, and Ga. The presence of Mo provided some indication of synthetic origin. In a GIA identification report, the stone was described as titanium and beryllium diffused. It is the first time GIA has examined a multi-elemental diffused and melt-grown synthetic sapphire.

Figure 2. The synthetic sapphire’s concentration vs. depth profile revealed that
concentrations of Be, Mg, Ti, Fe, and Ga decreased significantly when the laser
ablation spots went deeper into the stone. Source: GIA @topic:3


Title: Industry Analysis: Slow Season Prompts Rumors Abstract: Slower-than-expected holiday retail jewelry sales in the U.S. have prompted rumors of a possible takeover of an industry icon.

	Tiffany reported a worldwide sales increase of 4%, at the low end of its expectations, but its U.S. same-store sales stayed even with the previous year. Factoring out Internet and catalog trading, the retailer’s overall sales were down 2%. Only stores in its Asia division saw a real sales increase: same-store sales were up 7%.

	The challenging environment for jewelry sales prompted a renewal of takeover rumors as Tiffany’s stock price slumped after these announcements. In 2008, slowing sales conjured rumors that a luxury conglomerate, such as Richemont (owner of Cartier) or LVMH (partners in De Beers retail operations), would take over Tiffany & Co., a publicly traded but independent corporation. The company has not commented on the rumors.

	Tiffany was not the only large jewelry retailer affected by a slow fall season, which is critical for U.S. jewelers because 35-40% of sales are typically made in the final nine weeks of the year.

	Signet Jewelers, the parent company of Kay Jewelers and Jared the Galleria of Jewelry, reported a same-store sales increase of 4.7% in the U.S. for the nine-week season, compared to an increase of 9.2% for the same period last year. Zale Corp. reported a same-store increase of 2.3% for the season.

	Other reports indicate that demand for diamond jewelry rose very little over the previous year and that American consumers were trading down on diamond quality. One bright spot, according to the Centurion newsletter, is that the independent luxury jewelers it surveyed generally had a strong holiday season. Half of the respondents saw double-digit sales increases, while another 13.9% posted smaller gains. On a discouraging note, the percentage of luxury jewelers reporting sales declines (26.4%) increased substantially from the previous year.

	The buying season for China’s New Year (Feb. 10) is still a month away, but the nation’s economy slowed considerably during the second half of 2012, leaving jewelry demand in doubt. In India, buying at the year-opening UBM Mumbai show was cautious.

	All eyes will be focused on the Jan. 21–24 De Beers sight. December’s allocation was a larger-than-expected $495 million. January’s sight is typically the largest, with few price breaks. But with the trade still concerned over soft prices and the legal battle between a major diamond firm, Arjav, and its main creditor, ABN AMRO Bank, many manufacturers hope De Beers takes the cautious road with smaller sights and stable prices until the direction of the 2013 world economy becomes clearer.

	Following the unrest that beset South Africa’s mining sector last year, Anglo American Corporation announced major cutbacks at its giant Rustenburg platinum mining complex. The company, which assumed a majority interest in De Beers last year, said it would close four shafts at Rustenburg and eliminate 14,000 jobs because the shafts had become unprofitable to operate. The company pledged to create a similar number of jobs in other areas and said the affected workers would be provided a support package.

	Anglo fired 12,000 Rustenburg workers during a series of strikes last October, but rehired them several weeks later after negotiations with the unions. Source: GIA @topic:8


Title: Ruby: An Expensive Mistake Abstract: Figure 1. Silk in corundum often unmixes into two different solid phases, one highly reflective (rutile) and the other of lower relief (ilmenite or hematite-ilmenite). When the Mozambique ruby was heated, the lower-relief crystals began to break down, developing irregular white patches, as shown in the yellow circle. Photomicrograph by Richard W. Hughes; field of view 1 mm.
Gemologists at Bangkok’s Lotus Gemology recently received a 6 ct ruby for identification. Declared to be an untreated ruby from Mozambique, the stone featured a superb vivid red color of a type that is often termed “pigeon’s blood” in the trade. As it was also of good clarity and well cut, it was obvious we were dealing with a gem of potentially high value.
The UV-Vis-NIR spectrum was typical for ruby/synthetic ruby. The infrared spectrum revealed peaks at 3309 and 3232 cm–1. The 3232 cm–1 peak generally indicates that a stone has been subjected to artificial heat treatment. We proceeded to examine the gem in the microscope, where we found two additional pieces of evidence of heat treatment.
The first feature was rutile silk of a type that is typical of rubies from East Africa. In these stones, the silk consists of high-relief needles of rutile with attached unidentified “daughter” crystals of another substance of lower relief. In the case of heat-treated stones, the daughter crystals will sometimes show a partial breakdown (“GIA Lab reports on low-temperature heat treatment of Mozambique ruby,” GIA Research News, April 28, 2015). Small amounts of breakdown in the form of irregular white patches were found in this stone (figure 1).

Figure 2. Spall marks on the surface of the Mozambique ruby prove it was heat treated after cutting and polishing. Note that some of the spall marks have dark halos around them. Photomicrographs by Richard W. Hughes; fields of view 2.0 and 2.5 mm.
But the most obvious evidence of heat treatment was the presence of spall marks (figure 2), which are solidified droplets of material on the surface that melted or were dissolved during heating. These spall marks across the stone showed that the ruby had been heated after cutting and not repolished following the treatment. We can only guess about the reasons for heating such a valuable gem, but there is no doubt that this particular roll of the dice was a losing gamble because the potential improvement in appearance is slight compared to the large price difference between untreated and heated ruby. We concluded that this was a heat-treated Mozambique ruby. Source: GIA @topic:3


Title: Update on Emeralds from the Sandawana Mines, Zimbabwe Abstract: Zimbabwe’s Sandawana mines have been an important producer of emeralds for 40 years. Since the mines came under new ownership in 1993, consistent production has been established and, in addition to the small sizes for which Sandawana is known, greater numbers of polished stones as large as 1.50 ct have been produced. Currently, mining at the most active area, the Zeus mine, is done underground, with the ore processed in a standard washing/ screening trommel plant. Sandawana emeralds can be readily separated from emeralds from other localities. They have high refractive indices and specific gravities. Two amphiboles, actinolite and cummingtonite, are abundant inclusions; albite and apatite are common. Also found are remnants of fluid inclusions. Chemically, Sandawana emeralds typically have a very high chromium content. Source: GIA @topic:1


Title: The Identification of Blue Diffusion-Treated Sapphires Abstract: Blue diffusion-treated sapphires are becoming more prevalent than ever before. The diffusion technique, which involves the addition of color-causing chemicals during heat treatment, results in a thin layer of color at the surface of colorless or light-colored sapphire. The color was found to be stable to routine cleaning procedures; however, it may be partially or completely removed if the stone is repolished or recut. Recently, significant quantities of so-called "deep" diffusion-treated sapphires have entered the market. This article documents the properties of these and other blue diffusion-treated sapphires, and presents means of identifying this method using simple gemological tests. Source: GIA @topic:3


Title: Nonfading Maxixe-Type Beryl? Abstract: It is sometimes stated that there exists some Maxixe-type deep blue beryl (occasionally misnamed "aquamarine") that does not fade. All specimens ever reported in the literature did fade, typically to almost colorless in one to two weeks in bright sunlight or over a somewhat longer period under less intense illumination. A "nonfading" specimen recently examined proved to be typical fading Maxixe-type beryl. A possible reason why such a stone might give the impression that it is nonfading is discussed. With the exception of some brown topaz and some kunzite, no significant gemstone material fades on the same time scale as does Maxixe-type beryl. Source: GIA @topic:3


Title: New Emerald Production from Belmont Abstract: Second-generation stones from Brazil’s Canaan mine are often cleaner and lighter in color than those from the first geological event. Photo by Eric Welch/GIA.

	The Belmont mine in Brazil has been a key emerald supplier in the global market for the past 40 years. It is one of the very few companies that can guarantee a complete mine-to-market chain of custody for the emeralds it produces. As open-pit mining became more expensive over the past decade, underground mining gradually generated a larger share of production at Belmont. Today, all mining activity at the original open pit is underground. Open-pit mining will continue in the two pits to the north of the original site. General manager Marcelo Ribeiro revealed some exciting news about the Canaan mine, about 2 km away from the original pit, and expansion plans for the sorting and cutting facilities.

	Belmont acquired interest in the Canaan mine through a partnership with its original owners. Exploration and underground mining infrastructure are still ongoing at this site. Although the operation just started about a year ago, Ribeiro and his team have learned a lot about this deposit through field studies and chemical analysis. The interesting finding is that there is plenty of beryllium in this area, which makes the survey of chromium concentration critical to locating the mining targets. This is the exact opposite of the situation at the original Belmont site, where beryllium is the critical factor.

	According to Ribeiro, two geological events were responsible for emerald crystallization in the area. The original Belmont mine is mainly influenced by the first event, Canaan by the second. Based on research, the second event was much stronger at the Canaan mine, destroying most of the crystals formed during the first event. The second-generation emeralds have a lower chromium concentration, and therefore lighter green colors, but they are often larger and cleaner than those from the Belmont mine (see above). The new production is sometimes slightly yellowish or bluish. Ribeiro is very excited about the Canaan production, which allows the company to provide a greater selection to its clientele.

	Belmont currently cuts 50% of the Canaan production by value. All medium- to high-quality stones are cut on-site to add more value. To increase the capacity of the operation and make mining cheaper for long-term sustainability, the company plans to add two more optical sorters and further expand the cutting facility. Belmont will also keep promoting its mine-to-market product and better communicate with younger buyers to make them feel proud of their emerald purchases. Source: GIA @topic:3


Title: Update on Dyed Hydrophane Opal Abstract: Figure 1. These two opals (21.75 and 15.12 ct) were represented as natural-color blue and pink opal from Mexico. Photo by Robison McMurtry.

Dyed purple opals first appeared in the gem trade in 2011 (N. Renfro and S.F. McClure, “Dyed purple hydrophane opal,” Winter 2011 G&G, pp. 260–270). Recently, the authors became aware of similar material with vibrant blue and pink bodycolors (figure 1). From 2015 to 2017, a jewelry designer reportedly purchased over 500 carats of vivid pink and blue opals from a dealer she met at a small regional gem show in California. The dealer did not disclose that the material was dyed and claimed that these intense colors were from a new opal discovery in Mexico. This kind of misrepresentation could damage consumer confidence in all opals.

In July 2017, author EB received the two opals in figure 1 for examination. After determining that they were likely color treated, he sent both samples to GIA’s Carlsbad lab for further testing. With permission from the owner, each opal was cut in half to obtain a control sample and a test sample. The test samples (one blue and one pink) were soaked in acetone and hydrogen peroxide solutions to determine if their colors were stable. These two opals were carefully examined and, like the dyed purple material from 2011, were consistent with hydrophane opal from Ethiopia that had been dyed. Both stones displayed a “digit pattern” play of color (B. Rondeau et al., “On the origin of digit patterns in gem opal,” Fall 2013 G&G, pp. 138–146). They also showed small spots of saturated color at the surface, consistent with dye (figure 2).

Figure 2. Both the blue and pink opal showed dye color concentrations around pits and scratches on the surface, consistent with hydrophane opal that has been artificially dyed. Photomicrographs by Nathan Renfro; fields of view 2.34 mm (left) and 1.99 mm (right).
Both stones were soaked in acetone to collect some of the dye material for color spectroscopic analysis. The acetone with residual dye was measured and artificially concentrated by a factor of 20 by multiplying the very low absorption values measured. The measurements produced a spectrum consistent with an organic dye, characterized by broad band absorption features in both the pink and blue samples (figure 3). The absorption measurements were then converted to transmission spectra using GRAMS/AI spectroscopy software by Thermo Fisher Scientific. Color space coordinates were calculated from the transmission spectra and plotted as a color swatch. The hues produced were consistent with the bodycolor of each opal, confirming that the spectra represent the organic dye component (figure 3, inset).

Figure 3. The absorption spectra of the dyes were collected by first soaking the opals in acetone to remove some of the dye material. Color swatches were then calculated from measurements of the dye molecules suspended in acetone to produce the color swatches for reference (inset). These swatches were consistent with the observed bodycolor of each opal.

Figure 4. The blue and pink opals were confirmed to be dyed hydrophane opal, likely from Ethiopia. Half of each stone has been bleached using 3% hydrogen peroxide solution. Photo by Robison McMurtry.
The two samples were further tested to see if they could be restored to their original non-dyed state. As reported by Renfro and McClure (2011), soaking dyed purple opal in a solution of hydrogen peroxide removed the purple color. These new pink and blue samples were sliced in half and one piece of each sample was soaked in 3% hydrogen peroxide for up to two weeks. Their color saturation was significantly reduced, with the blue half turning white and the saturated pink half becoming very light pink (figure 4). It is possible that more time in the solution would have further reduced the pink color. Note that even though the samples lost their color, the dye molecules were not removed. But the hydrogen peroxide had oxidatively decomposed the dye into different molecules that did not absorb visible light and therefore could no longer impart color on the opals. Soaking dyed stones in hydrogen peroxide may be an effective way to remove the observed color in dyed opals, returning them to their natural appearance. In our experience, however, there is a risk of cracking when any hydrophane opal is immersed in a liquid.

Acetone allowed the removal of enough dye for spectroscopic analysis, proving that the coloring agent is an organic dye. While soaking the opals in acetone did not seem to greatly affect their color, soaking them in a hydrogen peroxide solution for several weeks removed the artificial color almost entirely. Upon further examination, we determined that they were originally hydrophane opals with a white bodycolor, likely from Ethiopia, that were color treated using an organic dye. These findings reaffirm the importance of treatment disclosure in the trade. A few unscrupulous industry members could compromise the reputation of dealers selling natural opal as well as those properly disclosing treated material to their customers. Source: GIA @topic:12


Title: Faces of Eternity Bring Skulls to Life Abstract: Human skulls, long a symbol of death or danger, have been a popular jewelry icon for decades, but gem carver Luis Alberto Quispe Aparicio has taken the concept of the skull as décor to a whole new level.

“I personally see it [the skull] as a symbol of eternity,” he said. “It is a sign of man's mortality; a victory of death over life. I thought to myself, ‘Why don't we try giving some life to them? Maybe even personality and character!’ I wanted to show that skulls could also be alive and fun.”
That was the genesis of a 26-piece collection of carved gemstone skulls he created to last forever. A selection of them is on display through April 2014 at GIA’s Carlsbad campus in California.
“These skull sculptures are different from any other objets d’art we’ve had on display before,” said Jana Miyahira-Smith, a subject specialist for GIA Education. “They are edgy and avant garde – they show we are not bound by convention in our museum displays.”
Duncan Pay, editor-in-chief of Gems & Gemology, said many vendors at this year’s Tucson gem and mineral shows had small, rock quartz skulls on display earlier this year, but said Aparicio’s were at a totally different level, especially with the combination of materials used.
“Aparicio’s skulls whimsical and fun,” Pay said. “He has an eye for the strange.”

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Carving a New Tradition for the Family Business
Aparicio said the skull sculptures were a way he could blend the lapidary art work and metalsmith skills he learned in his family’s gemstone carving business in Lima, Peru.
Aparicio and his sister Sylvia, a goldsmith and jewelry designer, grew up surrounded by artists, master carvers and jewelers who visited their father’s art studio. The siblings traveled to gem and mineral exhibitions around the world for more than 20 years, soaking up the work of many artists. This multi-cultural exposure helped them to develop their own artistic forms and techniques.
An engineer by profession, Aparicio creates objets d’art for Neoart Peru, the company their father created in 1968. The brother and sister have revived the business with a specialty in ruby carvings and natural wildlife-inspired themes that use rare and unusual gemstones from around the globe.
Aparicio spent several years collecting rough from around the world once he had the idea for the skull sculptures. Each chunk of rough needed to be large enough to create a skull and visually appealing to ensure the finished piece was attractive and interesting.
“Every stone has its little secret,” Aparicio said. “It could be revealed in the cutting, carving or polishing ‒they all need special skill to be well-carved. That is the fun part, it becomes a challenge.”
Aparicio spent one to three months each of the skulls, depending on the material used and the intricacies of the details. The exception was the ruby skull, which took three times longer because of ruby’s exceptional hardness. It is essentially an eight-step process from design to cutting and carving to polish. Each piece is a result of sculpture, metalsmithing and jewelry-making techniques.
Details Bring Skulls to Life
“The skulls collection was one of my favorites to create,” said Aparicio, who spent a year designing and carving them. “By carving natural gemstones with a combination of lapidary art and metalsmithing techniques, you can really see how the colors and textures in the various stones bring each piece to life.”
Nathan Renfro, lead analytical specialist in GIA’s Carlsbad lab, said it’s clear that each piece has its own character.
“There are a lot of details in the stands and accessories that go with each skull,” Renfro said. “The subtle details in the accent pieces give each one their own personality.”
The skull collection is a special treat for students Miyahira-Smith said.
“I think the students are really going to like them,” she said. “They are a good reminder of the many different ways the materials they are studying here can be fashioned.” Source: GIA @topic:9


Title: Richard T. Liddicoat (1918–2002) Abstract: Richard T. Liddicoat received numerous tributes during his lifetime, including the naming of the tourmaline species liddicoatite. But one honor stands above all: “Father of Modern Gemology.”

After completing his master’s degree in mineralogy at the University of Michigan, Liddicoat joined GIA in 1940 as assistant director of education. His early work on colored stones led to the publication of his Handbook of Gem Identification in 1947. After 12 editions, it remained one of the most respected textbooks in gemology. In 1952, he succeeded Robert Shipley as GIA’s executive director and became editor-in-chief of Gems & Gemology, a position he held for fifty years.

	Richard T. LiddicoatThe Father of Modern Gemology

Liddicoat, who had long sought consistent standards for describing polished diamond quality, was the architect of GIA’s D-to-Z diamond grading system. The system was introduced in 1953, and its popularity in the global diamond industry set the stage for the first GIA Diamond Grading Reports, issued two years later.

Liddicoat coauthored first editions of The Diamond Dictionary (1960) and The Jewelers’ Manual (1964). He also expanded GIA’s educational offerings internationally, starting with a Japanese affiliate in 1971. Upon stepping down as GIA president in 1983, Liddicoat was named chairman of its board of governors, a position he held until his death in 2002. Source: GIA @topic:7


Title: Sapphire Chart Article: Suggested Reading on Sapphires and Their Inclusions Abstract: Abraham J.S.D. (1982) Heat treating corundum: The Bangkok operation. G&G, Vol. 18, No. 2, pp. 79–82, http://dx.doi.org/10.5741/GEMS.18.2.79

Andersen O. (1967) A prospector's guide to the Anakie sapphire fields. G&G, Vol. 12, No. 6, pp. 173–178, 192.

Atkinson D., Kothavala R.Z. (1983) Kashmir sapphire. G&G, Vol. 19, No. 2, pp. 64–76, http://dx.doi.org/10.5741/GEMS.19.2.64

Buravleva S.Y., Smirnov S.Z., Pakhomova V.A., Fedoseev D.G. (2016) Sapphires from the Sutara placer in the Russian Far East. G&G, Vol. 52, No. 3, pp. 252–264, http://dx.doi.org/10.5741/GEMS.52.3.252

Coldham T. (1985) Sapphires from Australia. G&G, Vol. 21, No. 3, pp. 130–146, http://dx.doi.org/10.5741/GEMS.21.3.130

Crocker R.C. (1956) The Yogo sapphire mine. G&G, Vol. 8, No. 11, pp. 323–330.

Crowningshield G.R. (1983) Padparadscha: What's in a name? G&G, Vol. 19, No. 1, pp. 30 –36, http://dx.doi.org/10.5741/GEMS.19.1.30

Dharamaratne P.G.R., Premasiri H.M.R., Dillimuni D. (2012) Sapphires from Thammannawa, Kataragama area, Sri Lanka. G&G, Vol. 48, No. 2, pp. 98–107, http://dx.doi.org/10.5741/GEMS.48.2.98

Elen S., Fritsch E. (1999) The separation of natural from synthetic colorless sapphire. G&G, Vol. 35, No. 1, pp. 30–41, http://dx.doi.org/10.5741/GEMS.35.1.30

Emmett J.L., Douthit T.R. (1993) Heat treating the sapphires of Rock Creek, Montana. G&G, Vol. 29, No. 4, pp. 250–272, http://dx.doi.org/10.5741/GEMS.29.4.250

Emmett J., Scarratt K., McClure S.F., Moses T., Douthit T.R., Hughes R., Novak S., Shigley J.E., Wang W., Bordelon O., Kane R.E. (2003) Beryllium diffusion of ruby and sapphire. G&G, Vol. 39, No. 2, pp. 84–135, http://dx.doi.org/10.5741/GEMS.39.2.84

Emmett J.L., Stone-Sundberg J., Guan Y.B., Sun Z.Y. (2017) The role of silicon in the color of gem corundum. G&G, Vol. 53, No. 1, pp. 42–47, http://dx.doi.org/10.5741/GEMS.53.1.42

Epstein D.S., Brennan W., Mendes J.C. (1994) The Indaia sapphire deposits of Minas Gerais, Brazil. G&G, Vol. 30, No. 1, pp. 24–32, http://dx.doi.org/10.5741/GEMS.30.1.24

Farges F., Panczer G., Benbalagh N., Riondet G. (2015) The Grand Sapphire of Louis XIV and the Ruspoli sapphire: Historical and gemological discoveries. G&G, Vol. 51, No. 4, pp. 392–409, http://dx.doi.org/10.5741/GEMS.51.4.392

Gübelin E.J. (1942) Local peculiarities of sapphires; Part 1, 2 and 3. G&G, Vol. 4, No. 3, pp. 34–39, No. 4, pp. 50–54 and No. 5, pp. 66–69.

——— (1944) Gemstone inclusions – Sapphire. G&G, Vol. 4, No. 10, pp. 142 –149.

Guo J.F., Wang F.Q., Yakoumelos G. (1992) Sapphires from Changle in Shandong Province, China. G&G, Vol. 28, No. 4, pp. 255–260, http://dx.doi.org/10.5741/GEMS.28.4.255

Holmes R.J. (1947) The new Linde Stars: Man–made star rubies and star sapphires. G&G, Vol. 5, No. 11, pp. 452–456 and 478–479.

Johnson M.L., Mercer M.E., Fritsch E., Maddison P., Shigley J.E. (1995) Ti–sapphire: Czochralski–pulled synthetic pink sapphire from Union Carbide. G&G, Vol. 31, No. 3, pp. 188–195, http://dx.doi.org/10.5741/GEMS.31.3.188

Kane R.E. (1982) The gemological properties of Chatham flux–grown synthetic orange sapphire and synthetic blue sapphire. G&G, Vol. 18, No. 3, pp. 140–153, http://dx.doi.org/10.5741/GEMS.18.3.140

——— (1985) A preliminary report on the new Lechleitner synthetic ruby and synthetic blue sapphire. G&G, Vol. 21, No. 1, pp. 35–39, http://dx.doi.org/10.5741/GEMS.21.1.35

Kane R.E., Kammerling R.C. (1992) Status of ruby and sapphire mining in the Mogok Stone Tract. G&G, Vol. 28, No. 3, pp. 152–174, http://dx.doi.org/10.5741/GEMS.28.3.152

Kane R.E., Kammerling R.C., Koivula J.I., Shigley J.E., Fritsch E. (1990) The identification of blue diffusion–treated sapphires. G&G, Vol. 26, No. 2, pp. 115–133, http://dx.doi.org/10.5741/GEMS.26.2.115

Kane R.E., McClure S.F., Kammerling R.C., Khoa N.D., Mora C., Repetto S., Khai N.D., Koivula J.I. (1991) Rubies and fancy sapphires from Vietnam. G&G, Vol. 27, No. 3, pp. 136–155, http://dx.doi.org/10.5741/GEMS.27.3.136

Kan–Nyunt H.P., Karampelas S., Link K., Thu K., Kiefert L., Hardy P. (2013) Blue sapphires from the Baw Mar Mine in Mogok. G&G, Vol. 49, No. 4, pp. 223–232, http://dx.doi.org/10.5741/GEMS.49.4.223

Keller A.S., Keller P.C. (1986) The sapphires of Mingxi, Fujian Province, China. G&G, Vol. 22, No. 1, pp. 41–45, http://dx.doi.org/10.5741/GEMS.22.1.41

Keller P.C. (1982) The Chanthaburi–Trat gem field, Thailand. G&G, Vol. 18, No. 4, pp. 186–196, http://dx.doi.org/10.5741/GEMS.18.4.186

Keller P.C., Koivula J.I., Jara G. (1985) Sapphire from the Mercaderes–Río Mayo area, Cauca, Colombia. G&G, Vol. 21, No. 1, pp. 20–25, http://dx.doi.org/10.5741/GEMS.21.1.20

Kissin A.J. (1994) Ruby and sapphire from the Southern Ural Mountains, Russia. G&G, Vol. 30, No. 4, pp. 243–252, http://dx.doi.org/10.5741/GEMS.30.4.243

Koivula J.I. (1986) Carbon dioxide fluid inclusions as proof of natural–colored corundum. G&G, Vol. 22, No. 3, pp. 152–155, http://dx.doi.org/10.5741/GEMS.22.3.152

Krzemnicki M.S., Hänni H.A., Walters R.A. (2004) A new method for detecting Be diffusion–treated sapphires: Laser–induced breakdown spectroscopy (LIBS). G&G, Vol. 40, No. 4, pp. 314–322, http://dx.doi.org/10.5741/GEMS.40.4.314

Levinson A.A., Cook F.A. (1994) Gem corundum in alkali basalt: Origin and occurrence. G&G, Vol. 30, No. 4, pp. 253–262, http://dx.doi.org/10.5741/GEMS.30.4.253

Mychaluk K.A. (1995) The Yogo sapphire deposit. G&G, Vol. 31, No. 1, pp. 28–41, http://dx.doi.org/10.5741/GEMS.31.1.28

Nassau K. (1981) Heat treating ruby and sapphire: Technical aspects. G&G, Vol. 17, No. 3, pp. 121–131, http://dx.doi.org/10.5741/GEMS.17.3.121

Nassau K., Valente G.K. (1987) The seven types of yellow sapphire and their stability to light. G&G, Vol. 23, No. 4, pp. 222–231, http://dx.doi.org/10.5741/GEMS.23.4.222

Pham V.L., Pardieu V., Giuliani G. (2013) Update on gemstone mining in Luc Yen, Vietnam. G&G, Vol. 49, No. 4, pp. 233–245, http://dx.doi.org/10.5741/GEMS.49.4.233

Schmetzer K., Medenbach O. (1988) Examination of three–phase inclusions in colorless, yellow, and blue sapphires from Sri Lanka. G&G, Vol. 24, No. 2, pp. 107–111, http://dx.doi.org/10.5741/GEMS.24.2.107

Schmetzer K., Peretti A. (1999) Some diagnostic features of Russian hydrothermal synthetic rubies and sapphires. G&G, Vol. 35, No. 1, pp. 17–28, http://dx.doi.org/10.5741/GEMS.35.1.17

Schmetzer K., Steinbach M.P., Gilg H.A., Blake A.R. (2015) Dual–color double stars in ruby, sapphire and quartz: Cause and historical account. G&G, Vol. 51, No. 2, pp. 112–143, http://dx.doi.org/10.5741/GEMS.51.2.112

Schwarz D., Kanis J., Schmetzer K. (2000) Sapphires from Antsiranana Province, northern Madagascar. G&G, Vol. 36, No. 3, pp. 216–233, http://dx.doi.org/10.5741/GEMS.36.3.216

Schwarz D., Pardieu V., Saul J.M., Schmetzer K., Laurs B.M., Giuliani G., Klemm L., Malsy A.K., Erel E., Hauzenberger C., Du Toit G., Fallick A.E., Ohnenstetter D. (2008) Rubies and sapphires from Winza, central Tanzania. G&G, Vol. 44, No. 4, pp. 322–347, http://dx.doi.org/10.5741/GEMS.44.4.322

Schwarz D., Petsch E.J., Kanis J. (1996) Sapphires from the Andranondambo Region, Madagascar. G&G, Vol. 32, No. 2, pp. 80–99, http://dx.doi.org/10.5741/GEMS.32.2.80

Schwieger R. (1990) Diagnostic features and heat treatment of Kashmir sapphires. G&G, Vol. 26, No. 4, pp. 267–280, http://dx.doi.org/10.5741/GEMS.26.4.267

Seifert A.V., Hyrsl J. (1999) Sapphire and garnet from Kalalani, Tanga Province, Tanzania. G&G, Vol. 35, No. 2, pp. 108–120, http://dx.doi.org/10.5741/GEMS.35.2.108

Shor R., Weldon R. (2009) Ruby and sapphire production and distribution: A quarter century of change. G&G, Vol. 45, No. 4, pp. 236–259, http://dx.doi.org/10.5741/GEMS.45.4.236

Smith C.P., Gübelin E.J., Bassett A.M., Manandhar M.N. (1997) Rubies and fancy–color sapphires from Nepal. G&G, Vol. 33, No. 1, pp. 24–41, http://dx.doi.org/10.5741/GEMS.33.1.24

Smith C.P., Kammerling R.C., Keller A.S., Peretti A., Scarratt K.V., Khoa N.D., Repetto S. (1995) Sapphires from Southern Vietnam. G&G, Vol. 31, No. 3, pp. 168–186, http://dx.doi.org/10.5741/GEMS.31.3.168

Sorokina E.S., Litvinenko A.K., Hofmeister W., Hager T., Jacob D.E., Nasriddinov Z.Z. (2015) Rubies and sapphires from Snezhnoe, Tajikistan. G&G, Vol. 51, No. 2, pp. 160–175, http://dx.doi.org/10.5741/GEMS. http://dx.doi.org/10.5741/GEMS.51.2.160

Stratton V. (1951) Australian sapphire fields not fully exploited. G&G, Vol. 7, No. 4, pp. 125–138.

Wang F.Q. (1988) The sapphires of Penglai, Hainan Island, China. G&G, Vol. 24, No. 3, pp. 155–160.

Wang W., Scarratt K., Emmett J.L., Breeding C.M., Douthit T.R. (2006) The effects of heat treatment on zircon inclusions in Madagascar sapphires. G&G, Vol. 42, No. 2, pp. 134–150, http://dx.doi.org/10.5741/GEMS.42.2.134

Webster R. (1961) Corundum in Tanganyika. G&G, Vol. 10, No. 7, pp. 202–205.

Zwaan J.C., Buter E., Mertz–Kraus R., Kane R.E. (2015) Alluvial sapphires from Montana: Inclusions, geochemistry and indications of a metasomatic origin. G&G, Vol. 51, No. 4, pp. 370–391, http://dx.doi.org/10.5741/GEMS.51.4.370 Source: GIA @topic:1


Title: Citrine Description Abstract: Citrine is one of the most popular yellow gems on the market. This designer cut shows off the warm glow of citrine’s sunny color. – Lydia Dyer, gem courtesy John Dyer & Co.

                      Citrine—the transparent, pale yellow to brownish orange variety of quartz—is rare in nature. In the days before modern gemology, its tawny color caused it to be confused with topaz. Citrine’s attractive color, plus the durability and affordability it shares with most other quartzes, makes it the top-selling yellow-to-orange gem. It’s an attractive alternative not only for topaz, but also for yellow sapphire. The finest citrine color is a saturated yellow to reddish orange free of brownish tints.

	These gems, ranging from orangy yellow to reddish orange, are examples of fine citrine color. - Courtesy C. Y. Sheng
Since natural citrine is rare, most of the citrine on the market is the result of heat treatment, which causes some amethyst to change color from undesirable pale violet to an attractive yellow. The amethyst’s original hue can determine the richness of the resulting citrine’s yellow color.

	Low-temperature heat treatment transformed an amethyst into this orangy citrine. A gem carver created the attractive fantasy cut. - GIA & Tino Hammid
Citrine crystals occur in a wide range of sizes, and citrine sizes up to 20 carats are readily available in jewelry. Although citrine is available in standard shapes and sizes, many high-end jewelry designers and gem carvers have fashioned the warm yellow gem into unusual cuts for jewelry and carvings.

	This citrine carving weighs 167.78 carats. - Courtesy ICA Source: GIA @topic:1


Title: Golden Rutilated Quartz Artisanal Mining Community Abstract: Figure 1. The remote Brazilian mining community of Remedios is the site of the Bahia golden rutilated quartz mines. The town is developing a sustainable collective of artisanal miners. Photo by Brian Cook.

At the January 2017 Jewelry Industry Summit held in Tucson, Brian and Kendra Cook (Nature’s Geometry) discussed their efforts to promote sustainable mining in Brazil’s Bahia State. In cooperation with 2,500 miners from the region, the Cooks are developing a collective in Remedios, Novo Horizonte (figure 1). Plans to brand the region’s unique golden rutilated quartz will be supported by a warehouse and cutting facilities, as well as a visitor center. To provide food security for the population, the Cooks also intend to bring organic community farming to the area.

Brian Cook first visited the remote site, located in Chapada Diamantina bordering the Atlantic Rain Forest and the Serrado and Caatinga ecological communities, in 1983 as a geology student. The trip from Salvador, Bahia’s capital, took 2½ days, and he was shown an example of golden rutilated quartz (figure 2), which was relatively rare on the gem market at the time. He later became an exporter of the quartz and helped raise its profile. The Cooks have since become landowners in Remedios, and their property includes a successful golden rutilated quartz mine. Over the years they have visited with their children from their home in Salvador (now a ten-hour journey thanks to improved infrastructure) and become trusted members of the community.

Figure 2. A local miner holds up an example of the golden rutilated quartz found in the
Remedios area. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA.
The Cooks have already helped locals formalize their land and mining rights, and now they are turning their attention to other initiatives. Their agenda includes mine safety, certificates of origin to ensure transparency and consumer satisfaction, and teaching cutting and polishing gemstones. They especially seek to empower local women, who already sell rough gems at the local markets, through lapidary and beadmaking training. The community’s proximity to the Atlantic Rain Forest makes it an ideal location for ecotourism, a concept that can be combined with gemological study and buying expeditions.

Brian and Kendra Cook are seeking investors and corporate sponsorship for their community. Learn more about their work at bahiainitiative.com. Source: GIA @topic:1


Title: Coated Fire Opal in the Chinese Market Abstract: Fire opal is an attractive variety of gem opal characterized by its red-orange-yellow bodycolor, with or without play-of-color. Since about 2013, the Chinese market has seen an increase in natural, synthetic (sold as Mexifire), and treated fire opals, posing identification challenges for the gemologist.

Figure 1. This 3.87 ct translucent orange fire opal with play-of-color was identified as a coated stone. Photo by Wen Han.
At the July 2014 Beijing Jewelry Fair, a fire opal with a rather unusual orange bodycolor (figure 1) attracted our interest. It was a 3.87 ct oval cabochon with fair play-of-color, measuring approximately 14 × 10 × 6 mm. Its spot RI of about 1.39 and hydrostatic SG of 1.85 were both lower than the values for most natural fire opal. It was inert to both long- and short-wave UV radiation; untreated fire opal may also be inert to UV radiation or show green and blue fluorescence. Magnification revealed obvious scratching and small pits on the surface (figure 2), suggesting a lower hardness and the presence of a coating. We cut the sample in half for further examination. High magnification clearly showed the boundary between the orange layer and the substrate, which was also orange opal. The coated layer was about 60–90 μm thick (figure 3).

Figure 2. Surface scratches and small pits were visible on the coated fire opal. Photo by Wen Han.

Figure 3. A cross-section image of the fire opal shows a coated surface layer about 60–90 μm thick. Photo by Wen Han; magnified 100×.
EDXRF chemical analysis detected mainly Si and minor amounts of Ca, Na, and K. Fourier-transform infrared (FTIR) and Raman spectroscopy were used to identify the coating. Infrared reflectance spectroscopy revealed three strong bands at 1099, 789, and 474 cm–1 that are related to the fundamental Si-O vibrations, as expected for natural fire opal. Then we scraped off the coating with a razor blade to obtain its infrared transmittance spectrum. The peaks, specifically those at 2926, 1729, 1451, and 1159 cm–1, indicated the presence of organic matter consistent with acrylic polymer (figure 4). The Raman scattering spectra of the fire opal revealed several peaks attributed to both the substrate opal and the coating (figure 5). The Raman bands at about 350, 785, and 1080 cm–1, due to different stretching and bending vibration modes of the Si-O system, are typical for opal-CT. Other peaks, including 1320 and 1610 cm–1, are attributed to the acrylic coating material. Acrylic coatings are applied to various gem materials, such as lapis lazuli and jadeite (Summer 1992 Gem News, p. 135). This coating of acrylic polymer was used to enhance the fire opal’s color and seal its fissures. The coating also lowered the stone’s RI and SG values.

Figure 4. The FTIR spectrum of the coating scraped from the surface of the fire opal exhibits characteristic peaks at 2926, 1729, 1451, and 1159 cm–1 consistent with acrylic polymer.

Figure 5. Raman bands at approximately 350, 785, and 1080 cm−1 are typical for opal-CT; the other peaks, including those at 1320 and 1610 cm–1, are attributed to the acrylic coating.
Our investigation, believed to be the first report of coated fire opal in the Chinese market, reinforces the need for caution when buying these products. This coated fire opal’s lower RI and SG values, combined with magnification and Raman spectroscopy, are effective and nondestructive means of identification. Source: GIA @topic:12


Title: Global Chapters Host a Variety of Networking, Education Events Abstract: View Gallery

Each time I sit down to compile this quarterly summary of chapter news, I am amazed by the variety and multitude of events and activities our alumni chapters have accomplished. Even in the “busy months,” by jewelry industry standards, alumni chapters’ activities did not slow down, delivering education sessions, social events and gemological updates to members – in fact, our chapters have hosted 40 events since my last report!

Since our last Alum Connect edition in December 2013, the alumni office is pleased to report:

		Alumni around the world officially welcomed Susan Jacques as GIA president and CEO on Jan. 1. She is the sixth leader in GIA’s 83-year history and, as a GG from the Santa Monica campus class of 1980, is a fellow alumnus.

		The global industry descends upon Tucson, Arizona every February as the city hosts 40 gem and mineral fairs in a three-week period. I am proud to say that GIA alums were there in full force – as exhibitors, show attendees, lecturers and buyers. Seeing so many familiar faces and hearing about your achievements makes the show beyond a success for me. Plus, more than 300 guests from 24 countries attended our “Party at the GIA Gem Mine” dinner dance and annual alumni reunion.

Alumni Awards were presented at the Tucson event. These awards are given to chapter members who represent outstanding leadership and achievement within our chapters across the globe. (See  Alumni Award story for more information.)

2013 Continuing Education Recognition Program successful completers were also recognized. The program was created to offer GIA GGs across the globe access to the latest gemological education to help graduates stay relevant.

Here are some of the chapter activities and events that have occurred since early December:

		Chapter expansion continues: Alumni in Singapore and Spain are working to create a chapter; Bangkok leadership has been identified; South Carolina hosted its first meeting; and Las Vegas will host its first meeting later this month.

		Year-end festivities were held by North Carolina, Washington, D.C. and Vancouver and officer elections and chapter dinners took center stage in Hong Kong and Minnesota – Twin Cities.

		Museum exhibitions featuring the high-end jewelry of David Webb and Van Cleef & Arpels were visited by South Florida and our three Southern California Chapters. The Mile High chapter visited its home state’s famous mineral collection at the Colorado School of Mines.

		Hands-on gemological sessions on lead-glass filled rubies were presented by California – Golden Gate and a trifecta of multi-day classes on corundum treatments, emerald fillers and pearl grading were hosted by Florida – Gulf Coast.

		Jewelry history was a hot topic for three chapters: Manhattan hosted “The Gilded Age – New York”; while California – Golden Gate, London and Manhattan featured renowned British jewelry historians Dr. Jack Ogden and John Benjamin (who is regularly seen on the BBC’s “Antiques Roadshow”).

 John Benjamin, a long-time contributor to the BBC’s Antiques Roadshow, spoke at a  London Alumni Association chapter meeting  and shared the importance of looking at jewelry design in the context of its time. Photo by GIA

		Colored gemstone buying, selling, trends and a Tucson report were topics for Washington D.C., California – San Diego and Golden Gate, as well as Florida – Gulf Coast and Jacksonville.

		Diamonds and industry news were covered in Manhattan by industry veterans Alan Bronstein and Diane Waria Argas, while South Florida hosted Alexander Elbin, on the “Emerging Roles of the Auction Market.”

		Beneficiation, industry responsibility and empowering local industry was discussed at two chapters: Martin Harmon, a GIA staff gemologist, spoke at Africa’s first event in Namibia and Patricia Syvrud, on behalf of the Diamond Development Initiative, spoke to California – Golden Gate.

	Many members of the GIA Alumni Association in Africa attended the first event in Namibia. Photo by GIA

		Chapters hosting social gatherings included: Houston and Ontario (CAN) monthly meet-ups and Malaysia, Arizona – Phoenix and North Carolina’s “Meet & Greets.”

		Collaborations between chapters are on the rise. Co-activities have included Texas – Houston and Lone Star who joined forces to host visiting Scottish gemologist, Alan Hodgkinson; three California Chapters (Los Angeles, Orange County and San Diego) that planned a group museum tour; Texas – Lone Star coordinated an annual dinner gathering open to all visiting alums at Tucson; plus London hosted Hawaii president Brenda Reichel as a guest lecturer who spoke on the historical connection between the Hawaiian Crown Jewels and the British royals.

		An Alumni Leadership Breakfast Forum was also held in Tucson. This gathering brought 30 leaders from 16 alumni chapters together with GIA leadership, including Susan Jacques, president and CEO; and representatives from finance, education, communications and alumni. The group met to foster expanded chapter-to-chapter dialogue and relationships, as well as to share best practices that deliver value to their members.

 Alumni chapter leaders meet to share ideas at a breakfast in Tucson. Standing from left: Denise Nelson, Washington, D.C. Chapter ambassador; Suzanne Martinez, co-president of the Golden Gate Chapter; Merle Koblenz, president of the Manhattan Chapter; Rebecca Buys, president of the San Diego Chapter; and Gail Levine, secretary and treasurer of the Manhattan Chapter. Sitting from left: Kate Donovan, GIA Manager of Alumni Relations, and Katharyn Zava, treasurer of the North Carolina Chapter.
Chapter travel events:

Malaysia is planning an excursion to Myanmar this fall and all global alumni are welcome to attend. This is the second “International Alumni Gathering” trip planned by the chapter. All interested parties should contact the Malaysia Alumni Chapter’s Dorothy Jen for more information or to let them know you may be interested in joining.

View Gallery

	Attendees at the Alumni Association party in Tucson had the chance to commemorate the evening with photos using props from the "mine." Source: GIA @topic:11


Title: Largest Square Cushion-Cut Tsavorite Abstract: This 283.74 ct rough tsavorite (left) was mined in Merelani, Tanzania, by Bridges Tsavorite and yielded a 116.76 ct square cushion cut (right). Photos by Robert Weldon/GIA, courtesy of Bruce Bridges.
At the AGTA show, Bridges Tsavorite unveiled the largest known square cushion-cut tsavorite, weighing 116.76 ct (see above). The 283.74 ct rough stone was mined by the company in Merelani, Tanzania, in September 2017. Bangkok-based gem cutter Victor Tuzlukov cut the stone at Bridges Tsavorite’s Arizona office over the course of a month in 2018.
The tsavorite could be a once-in-a-lifetime stone, said Bruce Bridges, the company’s CEO and son of the late Campbell Bridges. Despite seeing most of the finest tsavorites in the world above 20 carats, he had never seen one comparable to this size in a square cushion cut. The square cushion and round cuts are the rarest shapes for tsavorite because the rough typically lends itself to other shapes.
Size and cut were not the only factors contributing to this tsavorite’s rarity. The rough was extremely clean for its size. It had several very well-terminated euhedral faces, unusual for tsavorite, which typically has more fragmented face formation. The tsavorite also has the distinction of being the largest gemstone cut in the United States.
Bridges said that the public is much more concerned about ethical sourcing than in the past and wants to know where a gemstone came from; in keeping with Bridges Tsavorite’s mine-to-market tradition, the stone’s process from mining to finished product was completely documented. “My father would be very happy that we’re doing this and that we’re carrying on his legacy,” he said.

	Bruce Bridges tells us about the square cushion-cut tsavorite.

In March 2018, a GIA team traveled to Arizona to document the cutting of the stone. Find out more about this rare tsavorite, and how Victor Tuzlukov approaches the cutting process, at https://www.gia.edu/gia-news-research/angel-in-stone-cutting-largest-square-cushion-cut-tsavorite Source: GIA @topic:1


Title: An In-Depth Gemological Study of Blue Sapphires from Pailin, Cambodia Abstract: Heated faceted blue sapphires reportedly mined near Phnum Yat in Pailin, Cambodia, along with an unheated, rough trapiche-type blue sapphire crystal from Pailin. Photo: Vincent Pardieu © GIA.

The Cambodian province of Pailin is an important historical locality that has produced many fine but often small stones for over a century. Currently, just a few mechanized mining operations remain active around Pailin; artisanal miners exploit river gravels in the dry season. Although today’s production is sporadic, gems previously mined from this deposit are found in the marketplace and in jewelry.

The Pailin gem field is centered on the eroded remnants of three volcanic cones that brought ruby and sapphire to the surface as passengers—xenocrysts—in alkali-basalt magma. Due to the climate, the alkali-basalt weathers very quickly, releasing stable minerals including corundum, garnet, and zircon, which miners find in secondary deposits.

Researchers from GIA’s Bangkok laboratory analyzed 68 sapphire samples collected during field expeditions to Pailin. The samples were fashioned to optimize them for laser ablation–inductively coupled plasma–mass spectrometry (LA-ICP-MS) chemical analysis, UV-Vis-NIR and Fourier-transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy, and inclusion studies using microscopy and Raman spectroscopy. Results from their study and field observations from the mining area appear in a new article titled An In-Depth Gemological Study of Blue Sapphires from Pailin, Cambodia

Pailin sapphires resemble gems from other basalt-related deposits in Thailand, Nigeria, Ethiopia, Australia, and northern Madagascar. As sapphires from these sources share similar geologic origins, it’s challenging to discriminate between them. Magnification of the Pailin sapphires revealed dense milky clouds, strong blue color zoning, and bands of minute particles, along with mineral inclusions such as pyrochlore, plagioclase feldspar, ferrocolumbite, goethite, zircon, and monazite. UV-Vis-NIR and FTIR spectra showed features typical of basalt-related sapphires. As with previous studies of basalt-hosted blue sapphires, the authors note that a combination of trace element chemistry and microscopy can help separate Pailin sapphires from samples from other localities. Source: GIA @topic:1


Title: Star Topaz from Vietnam Abstract: Figure 1. The 271.76 ct topaz was very light blue and transparent under daylight (A). Directing the flashlight as reflected light on the dome caused an eight-rayed star effect. Because of the wide light zone, the ray extending along the stone was blurred when the light was directed at the dome (B) and became more defined as the stone was moved (C and D). Photos by Le Ngoc Nang.
In addition to ruby, sapphire, spinel, tourmaline, garnet, and aquamarine, Vietnam is a source of topaz, discovered in many mining areas of several northern and Central Highlands provinces. These crystals are mainly colorless or very light to light blue. In 2020, we purchased a star topaz, reported to be from Lam Dong, Vietnam (figure 1). It was cut and sold by a gem setter in Ho Chi Minh City.
This transparent oval cabochon weighed 271.76 ct and measured 43.98 × 32.16 mm and 19.12 mm high. Observed with the unaided eye under a spotlight, it had a visible eight-rayed star effect. Testing at Liu Gemological Research and Application Center revealed the following standard gemological properties: refractive index—1.620–1.627 (measured on the flat polished bottom); hydrostatic specific gravity—3.56; biaxial optic figure under the polariscope; inert to long- and short-wave UV radiation; very weak pleochroism (colorless to light blue); and two-phase inclusions and needle-like inclusions. These characteristics confirmed a natural topaz.
We directed a flashlight as reflected light on the top of the stone, keeping the background dark to accentuate the phenomenon. An eight-rayed asterism appeared, caused by a strong band of light that extended along the length of the stone. This band of light formed the two main arms of the star. Six sharper arms extended from the main band. These six arms were formed by three bands—one perpendicular to the main light band and the other two inclined to it. Depending on the stone’s orientation, the arms of the inclined light bands were split into two parts or crossed the intersection of the main light band and the light band perpendicular to it. Each pair of inclined arms formed an angle of ~98° (i.e., the single light band was inclined at ~49° to the main light band). The length and width of the rays changed when we directed the light at different angles (figure 1).

	Star Topaz from Vietnam

Figure 2. Needle-like inclusions arranged in four directions, viewed here from the top of the stone, created the asterism effect in the Vietnam topaz. Photomicrograph by Le Ngoc Nang.
Under the microscope, we recorded white needle-like inclusions but could not identify them. They were oriented in four directions, and this was responsible for the eight-rayed star effect. These inclusions did not form long needles but slightly elongated dashes that were unevenly distributed in the stone (figure 2). This uneven distribution of inclusions explains why some rays became blurred or vanished while others were continuous and sharp.

Figure 3. Bravais lattice with base-centered orthorhombic system (left). On the
(001) plane, the needle-like inclusions aligned in four directions to form an
eight-rayed asterism (right).
Topaz has been documented to have chatoyancy, four-rayed asterism (Spring 2007 GNI, p. 73; Summer 2008 GNI, pp. 182–183), and six-rayed asterism (M. Steinbach, Asterism—Gems with a Star, MPS Publishing and Media, Idar-Oberstein, Germany, 2016). However, there have been no reports of topaz with eight-rayed asterism. The orthorhombic system has four Bravais lattices: primitive, base-centered, body-centered, and face-centered. When the topaz crystal has a base-centered lattice, the needle-like inclusion will align to four directions on the (001) plane: two perpendicular directions of a and b, and two diagonal directions intersected at the center of the top and bottom faces of the lattice. These directions are perpendicular to the c-axis (figure 3). When the light reflects off these inclusions, an eight-rayed asterism will appear. A typical example of an orthorhombic mineral with an eight-rayed asterism was bronzite, introduced by Steinbach (2016). Nevertheless, this eight-rayed star topaz was a rare and intriguing case. Source: GIA @topic:3


Title: Bastnäsite-(CE) and Parisite-(CE) from Mt. Malosa, Malawi Abstract: Large crystals of the rare-earth carbonates bastnäsite-(Ce) and parisite-(Ce) have been collected from alkaline pegmatites at Malawi’s Mt. Malosa, where they occur associated with aegirine, microcline, and several other unusual accessory minerals. Only small portions of some crystals are suitable for cutting into attractive gems, because most of the material is opaque or heavily fractured. This report presents the gemological and chemical properties of Mt. Malosa bastnäsite-(Ce) and parisite-(Ce) gemstones. This area shows good potential for future production of these rare-earth carbonates, although cut stones will continue to be rare. Source: GIA @topic:2


Title: Citrine Quality Factors Abstract: This award-winning 30.28-ct. super-trillion cut displays citrine’s highly valued, saturated orangy red color. – John Dyer, gem courtesy John Dyer & Co.

Color
Citrine’s attractive color, plus the durability and affordability it shares with most other quartzes, makes it the top-selling yellow-to-orange gem. A saturated yellow to reddish orange color free of brownish tints is prized in citrine, although in the contemporary market, citrine’s most popular shade is an earthy hue—a deep brownish or reddish orange.

	This group of rough and fashioned citrines exhibits the reddish orange colors enjoyed by consumers. - Dan Van Rossen, courtesy ICA

	Citrine’s colors range from pale brownish yellow shades like this one to intense reddish orange hues. - Robert Weldon
Since natural citrine is rare, most of the citrine on the market is the result of heat treatment, which causes some amethyst to change color from undesirable pale violet to attractive yellow. The amethyst’s original hue can determine the richness of the resulting citrine’s yellow.

	This fantasy-cut citrine started out as an amethyst. Its orange hues are the result of low-temperature heat treatment. - GIA & Tino Hammid

	Lime-colored citrine can result from heat treatment of smoky quartz. The gem’s designer used some frosted facets to highlight its trendy color. – Lydia Dyer,  gem courtesy John Dyer & Co
Clarity
Dealers look for citrines without color zoning or visible inclusions. Much of the faceted citrine in the market is eye-clean, meaning it lacks eye-visible inclusions.

	Most faceted citrine on the market has no eye-visible inclusions. - Robert Weldon

	Microscopic inclusions in citrine are usually not visible without high magnification.
Cut
Although citrine is available in standard shapes and sizes, in recent years many high-end jewelry designers and gem carvers have fashioned the warm yellow gem into unusual cuts for jewelry and carvings.

	A medley of oval-cut citrines in various sizes graces this elegant necklace. – GIA & Tino Hammid, courtesy a private collector

	Citrine carvings by gem designer Michael Dyber adorn a showcase at a Tucson gem show. - Eric Welch, courtesy Michael Dyber

	This golden cat is carved in citrine from Brazil. Its eyes are made of peridot and
	gold. - Robert Weldon
Carat Weight
Citrine crystals occur in a wide range of sizes, and citrines of up to 20 carats are readily available in jewelry.

	Award-winning gem designer John Dyer calls this gem’s cutting style the Regal Radiant Cut. It weighs 19.90 carats. – Lydia Dyer, gem courtesy John Dyer & Co.

	John Dyer’s Lime Citrine Reflections™ is a gem with an attractive lime green color, a fascinating designer cut, and a weight of 33.35 carats. – Lydia Dyer, gem courtesy of John Dyer & Co. Source: GIA @topic:1


Title: Designer’s ‘Complex, Eccentric’ Pieces Create Buzz, Find Fans in Hollywood and D.C. Abstract: Christina Fandino's kinetic “The Spider & the Egg” ring-palm bracelet took first-place honors in the Metal Arts Society of California’s 2017 Jewelry Challenge. “The body of the spider rotates 360 degrees, the legs move at the ball and socket joints, and the egg gently spins within its web cradle,” she says. The piece features two amethysts and a 1 ct moldavite. Courtesy of Christina Grace/TIN HAUS

Christina Fandino’s career has been nothing short of a whirlwind since 2015.

In that brief span of time, the Los Angeles designer, who also is known as Christina Grace, won a life-changing scholarship, designed a necklace that drew buzz during the presidential elections, and established a company that’s both earning national press coverage and finding fans among Hollywood A-listers.

Fandino, a GIA Graduate Jeweler, is also winning awards, including first-place honors in the Metal Arts Society of California’s 2017 Jewelry Challenge, for a kinetic, ring-palm bracelet called “Spider & Egg.”

“The body of the spider rotates 360 degrees, the legs move at the ball and socket joints, and the egg spins within its web cradle,” explains Fandino, who calls her artistic aesthetic “diverse” and “eccentric.” The piece, along with a painting created by Fandino, was also recently selected as a finalist in the Boone Art Gallery’s Annual Juried Exhibition, and was on display at the gallery in Pasadena through January 2018.

TIN HAUS Founder Christina Fandino, GJG, began her career in the fine arts, focusing on painting and acting. She won a scholarship to GIA in 2015 and her jewelry design career has been a whirlwind ever since. Photo by Philipp Harth. Courtesy of Christina Grace/TIN HAUS
Until just a few years ago, Fandino’s career in the fine arts was focused on painting and acting. Her family immigrated to the United States from Manila, Philippines in the mid-1980s, eventually settling in Oceanside – a coastal city north of San Diego. Fandino describes herself as an artist “from the start,” and entered competitions from a young age.

She continued to sell paintings privately as she grew, though her art took the direction of acting for years – she appeared in TV shows, independent movies and feature films, such as Anne Hathaway and Jake Gyllenhaal’s “Love & Other Drugs.” Jewelry was not on her radar as a profession or method of creative expression, even though she knew more about it than the average consumer and enjoyed collecting stones as a child.

“My family did not come from a jewelry background, but my mother was the poster child for jewelry obsession,” she says. “I learned a lot about jewelry because of her influence. By 9, I already knew what the 4Cs were, and what a diamond-cut chain looked like. I was proud to know the difference between ‘carat’ and ‘karat.’ I had an appreciation for metals and was an avid collector of raw crystals and stones.

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“I heard about GIA frequently from a young age,” she says, “I grew up informed that it’s where you went to get jewelry training, but didn’t understand how much it would later instrumentally influence my life.”

In 2011, that changed when she had a “chance meeting” with a jewelry store owner who taught her wire-wrapping techniques.

“That’s when I fell in love with the creation of jewelry,” Fandino says. “Once I fell in love with jewelry-making, I knew I had to go to GIA.”

She was finally able to apply to the Institute in 2015, and found out that she would also receive a scholarship.

“I felt like I shot to the moon and back!” she says. “A GIA scholarship afforded me the opportunity to go to the institution I’d looked up to growing up, and gave me the confidence to pursue this new path without holding back. It was truly humbling and an honor.”

A self-described “perfectionist,” Fandino says she tried to absorb everything she could while studying in Carlsbad.

“I felt like there was so much to learn,” she says. She spent lots of time talking with her instructors, getting suggestions from librarians at the Richard T. Liddicoat Gemological Library and Information Center and utilizing the resources of Career Services.

Fandino, GJG, at her 2016 GIA graduation in Carlsbad. “The GIA scholarship afforded me the opportunity to go to the institution that I looked up to, growing up,” she says. “It gave me the confidence to pursue this new path without holding back.” Photo by Cedric Jonathan. Courtesy of Christina Grace/TIN HAUS
In the midst of an already-busy year, Fandino also founded TIN HAUS fine arts company with her partner Cedric Jonathan, who still directs the company’s sales and marketing efforts.

“Our drive was led by one goal – to use our gifts and talents for change,” she says. “Through the company, we have been able to donate a portion of the profits towards causes and non-profit organizations we care about and are deeply passionate about.”

One of those causes was the campaign for 2016 U.S. presidential hopeful Bernie Sanders. While still a student at GIA, Fandino designed and hand-fabricated a pendant featuring Sanders’ iconic hair, glasses and silhouette. The “The Bern Necklace” got Sanders’ wife, Jane’s, attention, and soon orders were coming in to TIN HAUS almost as quickly as Fandino could keep up.

Bernie Sanders’ wife, Jane, endorsed then-GIA student Christina Fandino’s “The Bern Necklace,” a hand-fabricated representation of the 2016 presidential candidate’s iconic hair and silhouette. Orders poured in from across the United States and Fandino donated a portion of the profits to support his campaign. Courtesy of Christina Grace/TIN HAUS
Fandino moved back to Los Angeles after her GIA graduation, working as a master jeweler and design consultant for a Beverly Hills firm before she realized she wanted her work to truly be her own.

“I wanted to channel all of my good, artistic energy toward stretching my craft by way of school and expanding TIN HAUS,” says Fandino, who is earning her Bachelors of Fine Arts in Metals at California State University. “And due to the intensive training I received from GIA’s Graduate Jeweler program, I’ve experienced leaps and bounds creatively and professionally.”

Fandino has since won several more scholarships for her work, and the professional momentum gained with “The Bern Necklace” hasn’t let up.

Fandino created the "Film, I AM" pendant for the cast and crew of the 2017 Make a Film Foundation’s production, “The Black Ghiandola.” The sterling silver pendant, which features a 3 mm moldavite, will be expanding as a production line in 2018. Courtesy of Christina Grace/TIN HAUS
Her designs have been featured in Maxim and Flaunt magazines, and her acting and jewelry worlds also collided when Fandino was asked to be the official jeweler of the Make a Film Foundation (MAFF), a nonprofit organization that helps terminally ill young people realize their filmmaking dreams. When MAFF recently helped a 16-year-old cancer patient direct a movie starring Johnny Depp, Laura Dern, David Lynch and J.K. Simmons, Fandino made sterling silver pendants for the cast and crew – including directors Catherine Hardwicke, Sam Raimi and Theodore Melfi – as a thank you for loaning their time and talents.

That pendant, named the “I AM,” is set to be the cornerstone of a larger collection – the first full line – launched by TIN HAUS later in 2018.

“The process of creation is what fuels my fire,” she says. “I’m an artist with complex and eccentric ideas, and I don’t watch what other people are doing. If I was encumbered by that, I wouldn’t get anything done, and my work would start to look like everything else you see out there. Concepts and ideas should come from a deeper place – I believe in creating from the heart first, and the fruits of your labor will follow.” Source: GIA @topic:6


Title: Chapter Events Offer In-Depth, Exciting Experiences Abstract: Guests at GIA's reception at AGS Conclave celebrate the American Gem Society's 80th Anniversary.

                      Alumni across the world continue to amaze me with their commitment to excellence. It is so rewarding to hear from our members: excited words shared by new alumni who are thrilled with their new affiliation; chapter leaders who regularly extend themselves for the benefit of their members; or “lost” alumni who reach out to the Alumni office to reconnect after 10, 20 or even 30 years. One message is consistent: their GIA education experience has impacted their life and they want to know how they can discover and learn even more.

My answer remains a simple constant: Stay connected. Stay informed. GIA delivers public and continuing education opportunities regularly to alumni members, but please don’t forget to take notice of the work of our chapters. Exciting things are happening for our alumni around the world.

Since our last Alum Connect edition in March 2014, the alumni office is pleased to report:

Big GIA Alumni Association numbers: It’s time to celebrate!

		Active members: 99,000 plus

		Chapters worldwide: 70

		Chapters events so far this year: 74

Alumni Gathering at AGS Conclave: More than 250 alumni and industry dignitaries attended an event to celebrate our members and the American Gem Society’s 80th Anniversary.

GIA in New York: Many alumni and local chapter leaders attended an opening reception of the new GIA lab and campus location in the International Gem Tower in New York.

	Members of the Manhattan Chapter – Gail Brett Levine, secretary/treasurer;
	Irma Maria Davidson; Merle S. Koblenz, president; Delphine Leblanc; and
	Victor Hugo Garcia, vice president – at GIA’s new location in New York.

Baselworld, Hong Kong and JCK Las Vegas shows provided great opportunities for reunions, including meeting up with many alumni members and chapter leaders from Brazil, Canada, China, France, Germany, Italy, London, Peru, South Africa, Switzerland and the U.S.

Here’s some of the CHAPTER highlight news and events that have occurred in the last few months:

Spain – our newest chapter! – hosted a very successful first event, meeting at Mineralia 2014 exhibition in Seville, followed by a social.

	André Neves Bento, president of the Spain chapter, left, and Adolfo de Basilio at
	the chapter’s first event in Seville.

  Chapter milestones  : A round of applause to  Shanghai  for 25 years as a  registered society in perfect time to re-launch chapter activity.  Washington, D.C.  celebrates 30 years!

		Social gatherings brought  Houston , Malaysia,  Metro-Phoenix  and Toronto membe  rs together. Students from Shanghai joined alumni from   Hong Kong   at a dinner hosted during the Changsha Show in China.

  Safety and security   was presented by FBI and LA police department  detectives to the  Los Angeles  chapter.

  Author Renee Newman   presented a lecture o n “Exotic Gems” at the Golden Gate , Illinois/Indiana   and Wisconsin chapters.

Auction and jewelry history presentations at three chapters included: Alexander Eblen, from Leslie Hindman Auctioneers, at Minnesota -Twin Cities; a special preview at Heritage Auction Galleries for Los Angeles members; and Dr. Brenda Forman presented on “17th Century Diamonds and Pearls” at Washington, D.C.

Talks on minerals and gem mining history brought the gemological world together: John Rhoads on North America Gems and Minerals for Colorado, Mile High and Walter Goetz on the famous Montgomery Co. Gold Mining History in Washington, D.C. Members of the North Texas chapter were struck by the beauty of Dr. Rob Lavinsky’s gallery of exceptional minerals at their open house hosted at Arkenstone.

Watches, history, education and pricing were topics presented by experts Ken Specht, creator of the Specht Sheet, and Ed Faber, of Faber Galleries, in  Las Vegas  and Manhattan, respectively.

Demand for colored gemstone knowledge is up. AGTA’s CEO Doug Hucker presented   “The Colored Gemstone Revolution”   to the  Wisconsin  and St. Louis chapters. Pennsyl vania/Delaware Valley and South Flor ida hosted Adam Graham, CEO of Erica Courtney Jewelry, to talk on "Selling Color." Seattle, London, Golden Gate  and Ohio heard from gemstone experts and traders on the topics of mine to market, specialty gems and market sources  in Sri Lanka and East Africa.

Gemology, research and “hands-on” sessions were experienced during a lab visit in Manhattan, a gem identification challenge in Colorado, and a synthetic and treated diamond event in Michigan.

Jewelry design, lapidary and gemstone photography events featured jewelry designer Etienne Perret in San Diego; the art of gemstone carving in Washington, D.C.; a lapidary school visit by Middle Tennessee; and capturing the beauty behind the lens by GIA’s Robert Weldon in Metro-Phoenix.

Chapter travel – you’re invited!

The Malaysia chapter is going to Myanmar (formerly known as Burma) this fall and all global alumni are welcome to go exploring with them! This second International Alumni Gathering trip planned by the chapter encourages worldwide members to join. All interested parties should contact the Malaysia Chapter for more details, information or to let them know you are interested in joining. Act quickly, space is limited.

Mexico City chapter leaves this week for its latest Gemstone Safari excursion to the Sea of Cortez to visit pearl farms and experience the harvest.

Alumni News – take note!

		Join us to “Party at the GIA Gem Mine: Down Under” at the annual Tucson reunion, dinner dance and alumni auction to support the Alumni Endowment Fund on Feb. 6, 2015. Consider donating something related to this fun theme. For further donation information and to download a form, visit our web page.

I hope all of you who read this report are inspired by the committed alumni who are creating these opportunities for their fellow alumni members. And if you haven’t done so yet – get involved! To all our chapter volunteers and alumni members across the globe who plan and attend these continuing education opportunities, thank you. It’s your actions that drive our Alumni Association’s success. Source: GIA @topic:10


Title: Sapphire Rush Near Ambatondrazaka, Madagascar Abstract: Figure 1. A rough blue sapphire at the rush site at Bemainty, near Ambatondrazaka, Madagascar. Photo by Rosey Perkins.

	In October 2016, a sapphire rush of an estimated 45,000 miners occurred at Bemainty, about 35 km east of Ambatondrazaka, Madagascar. Author VP was informed of the rush by Marc Noverraz, a Swiss gem merchant based in Ilakaka, Madagascar. According to Mr. Noverraz, some large, highly saturated blue sapphires were found at the rainforest site in late September. This attracted people from all over the island, as well as traders (mainly from Sri Lanka) who settled in Ambatondrazaka to buy gems.

	Author RP gained access to the site from October 23 to 26. When she arrived, miners were working along either side of a river. The mining area was slightly more than 2.5 km long. The miners were digging for gem-rich gravels near the river or in the forest while washing took place in the nearby stream. The sapphires produced were mainly blue, varying from light to deep blue (figure 1). Many of the blue specimens were very slightly green; most were milky and would benefit from heat treatment. Particolored stones with pink/blue/colorless color zoning and pinkish orange sapphires (like those discovered at Mandraka near Toamasina in 2011) were also found.

	This new rush area (figure 2) was clearly a secondary deposit. Miners had dug pits up to two meters deep in order to collect potentially gem-rich gravels for washing in the stream using hand sieves. Life at the mining site was very basic, with some people living in huts but most in makeshift tents under a plastic roof. There was no sanitation, and clean water was not available. While some police were present to keep the peace, it is now believed they took greater control of the area, and the number of active miners seems to have decreased.

	Figure 2. Thousands of independent Malagasy miners work the sapphire deposit in the rainforest east of Ambatondrazaka. Photo by Rosey Perkins.

	Author RP accessed the site from Ansevabe, a one-hour journey from Ambatondrazaka by motorbike, though many people were reaching the area by tractor, bicycle, or on foot (an 11-hour walk from Ansevabe). On her return to Ansevabe, RP estimated a thousand people traveling toward the mine. In Ambatondrazaka, she saw blue stones from the rush weighing up to 75 ct. Fine, clean blue stones over 100 ct and some attractive pinkish orange stones over 50 ct were also reported.

	As rubies and sapphires have been discovered fairly regularly in this region since 2000, a new sapphire find was not a huge surprise. The region is part of the Ankeniheny-Zahamena-Mandadia Biodiversity Conservation Corridor and Restoration Project, which consists of Ankeniheny, Zahamena, and Mantadia National Parks. The rush site is therefore a protected area. Several sources in Madagascar have reported that by early November the authorities had started to control the foreign buyers, though stones continue to emerge from the mine. Source: GIA @topic:1


Title: Exceptionally Large Synthetic Rutile Abstract: Figure 1. Three large synthetic rutile brilliants weighing 11.13, 110.18, and 11.91 ct. Photo by Robert Weldon; courtesy of Arya Akhavan.
The Carlsbad laboratory received three light yellow modified round brilliants weighing 11.13, 11.91, and 110.18 ct (figure 1) for identification reports. Standard gemological testing revealed the stones to be synthetic rutile based on over-the-limit refractive index readings and extreme fire and doubling, an identification that was supported by Raman spectroscopy.
Of particular note was the astonishing size of these stones. The 110.18 ct synthetic rutile is the largest encountered in the GIA laboratory. Even the smaller 11.13 ct and 11.91 ct stones are much larger than normal for this material, which is usually seen in sizes up to several carats. The owner of the stones indicated that the manufacturer had to modify their furnace to accommodate growth of the 110.18 ct crystal. Also notable were the novel facet pattern and precision cutting usually only seen in the high-end collector market.

Figure 2. UV-Vis-NIR absorption spectra comparing the 110.18 ct and 11.13 ct synthetic rutile studied, here demonstrating the effect of aluminum doping in the smaller stone to produce a nearly colorless appearance.
Interestingly, the two smaller stones had a much lighter yellow color than the 110.18 ct stone, which was notable even considering the shorter light path length through the smaller stones. Chemical analysis using laser ablation–inductively coupled plasma–mass spectrometry showed a higher concentration of aluminum in these two samples (~80 ppm Al compared to ~3 ppm). The difference in color was also demonstrated in the ultraviolet/visible/near-infrared absorption spectra (figure 2). This finding aligns with the practice of growing rutile doped with small amounts of aluminum to bring the appearance of the material closer to nearly colorless (C.H. Moore, “Rutile boule and method of making the same,” U.S. Patent 2,715,070, issued August 9, 1955). Additionally, the owner indicated that the two smaller rutile crystals were grown by National Lead Co. between 1961 and 1964, while the larger stone is from a modern producer. Source: GIA @topic:3


Title: Tenebrescent Irradiated Scapolite Abstract: Figure 1. The scapolite pieces on the left side of these photos were irradiated, while the right group of scapolite fragments were not. The photo on the left shows the scapolite before exposure to UV radiation. In the center photo, the scapolite has been exposed to LWUV for 10 minutes. The photo on the right shows the samples after 30 seconds of exposure to SWUV. Scale is in 1 mm increments. Photos by Nathan Renfro.

Sixteen near-colorless scapolite rough crystal fragments, provided by Dudley Blauwet (Dudley Blauwet Gems, Louisville, Colorado) were recently examined in the Carlsbad laboratory. All of the samples were reportedly from the Pitawak mine in the Sar-e-Sang region of Afghanistan’s Badakhshan province. The material was transparent and near colorless, with transparent crystal and fluid inclusions, and some brownish epigenetic staining in cracks.

Half of the crystals had reportedly undergone radiation treatment. The identification of both the natural and irradiated groups as scapolite was confirmed with Raman spectroscopy. Both sets of crystals appeared the same under normal lighting conditions (figure 1, left). When exposed to long-wave ultraviolet (LWUV) light, both the natural and artificially irradiated scapolite showed a strong yellow fluorescence, which was slightly less intense in the irradiated scapolite. Under short-wave UV light (SWUV) a similar intensity trend was observed, with both the natural and artificially irradiated scapolite fluorescing a weak to moderate yellow. However, the most notable difference was in the intensity of the tenebrescent effect exhibited in both sets of stones, which occurs after exposure to both LWUV and SWUV light sources.

Tenebrescence is the phenomenon that occurs when a mineral changes color after exposure to UV light. The color change is temporary, and can be reversed when the material is exposed to incandescent light. Tenebrescence in natural scapolite has been documented (Fall 2005 GNI, pp. 269–271). In the case of these 16 scapolite samples, tenebrescence was observed as a moderately saturated blue color in a previously near-colorless stone. Based on the submitted materials tested, it appeared that artificially irradiating scapolite created a much stronger tenebrescent effect when the material was subsequently exposed to UV light. The material displayed tenebrescence when subjected to LWUV, but the intensity was generally greater after exposure to SWUV (figure 1, center and right). After exposure to SWUV, the visible absorption spectrum of the blue color-causing defect was measured. The resulting visible spectrum confirmed that the blue color was induced in the scapolite (figure 2).

Figure 2. The visible absorption spectrum of the blue color-causing tenebrescent defect showed a broad absorption band centered around 610 nm. The transmission window in the blue region is consistent with the observed blue color.
Irradiation of colorless scapolite appears to have a very limited effect on the material. After performing various gemological tests, the only significant difference we observed was the strength of the tenebrescence, which may serve as a clue that the scapolite was previously irradiated. The appearance of the material was otherwise not improved in any noticeable way. Source: GIA @topic:2