# Publication Year: -
# Title: Ekati + Diavik = A Revived CanadaMark
# Abstract: An aerial view of the Ekati diamond mine. Photo courtesy of Dominion Diamond Corp.

                      Sometime soon a celebrity may be posing for the paparazzi wearing suites of diamond jewelry hallmarked “Mined in Canada.” The merging of the two largest Canadian diamond mines has given the new owner, Dominion Diamond Corporation, the opportunity to relaunch and expand globally the CanadaMark, which was originally a brand commissioned by Rio Tinto for locally polished diamonds from its Diavik mine.

Dominion is no stranger to brands. The company owned a majority interest in Harry Winston, the jeweler synonymous with mega-diamonds, and carried its name for more than six years; it also owned a 40% stake in the Diavik mine. The company sold the Winston luxury stores and watch brand to Swatch Group of Switzerland for $750 million in 2013, changed its name to Dominion Diamond Corporation and acquired the Ekati mine from BHP Billiton later that year. The price was $553 million, leaving the company with nearly $200 million in surplus cash.

“We were always very keen to take over Ekati,” said James Pounds, president of Dominion Diamond. “The acquisition of Ekati provided the opportunity to revive a Canadian hallmark,” he added, noting that the combination of the two mines will produce sufficient quantities of “eligible” goods to sustain such a program.

James Pounds, president of Dominion Diamond Corp said the merger of the two largest Canadian mines offers an excellent opportunity to revive the CanadaMark brand. Photo by Russell Shor.
The CanadaMark will be used on polished diamonds with a cut grade of Very Good or above, L color or higher and I2 clarity or higher. The clarity range is lower because demand for I2 goods is growing, said Pounds. About 20% of both mines’ total production would polish out to such goods.
Dominion is just beginning a test marketing campaign for CanadaMark, but Pounds is confident the demand will be there.

“We’ve done our research. Consumers today have a growing awareness of the origins of their diamonds, so our brand can offer them the assurance of responsibly sourced, fully audited chain of custody,” he said.

The amount of cooperative advertising funds that will be available and which celebrity will carry the CanadaMark is still under consideration, Pounds said.

Previous attempts to establish a Canadian diamond brand were difficult because all of the larger mines were in the hands of different producers. Although there was no specific requirement that the diamonds be polished in the Northwest Territories, BHP did develop CanadaMark in tandem with efforts to start manufacturing there. Most cutting operations closed after a few years, however, because the high costs were not competitive with other diamond centers.

Approved manufacturers of CanadaMark diamonds are based in India, Canada and Belgium and have agreed to maintain the audited chain of custody. These operations, appointed by Dominion, are able to produce CanadaMark diamonds, assuring their provenance and origin at a competitive price, Pounds noted.

Ekati, commissioned in 1998, was Canada’s first diamond mine. Its discovery seven years earlier touched off a diamond rush not seen since the gaudy days of South Africa’s boom of the 1870s. This time, the prospectors flew aircraft with specially equipped sensors to detect potential kimberlites. BHP Billiton, which acquired a majority interest in Ekati, also staked claims to a number of kimberlites in the surrounding area.

At least one of the pipes will secure the future of Ekati for some years to come; mining at the original pipes, Misery and Koala, will likely end in 2019. Mining at the Fox pipe ended earlier this year because the costs of redeveloping it as an underground operation were too high. The large Jay pipe, however, has yet to be developed. Its production consists of mainly smaller stones, but is fairly rich at approximately two carats per ton. Jay, which lies under a shallow lake, could extend the life of the mine for another 10 to 20 years, Pounds said.

Diavik, discovered by Aber Resources during the mid-1990s diamond rush, started production in 2003 with a 40-60 partnership between Aber and Rio Tinto. Aber later acquired Harry Winston and took on the name of the New York–based retailer.

Pounds thinks there are eight to 10 years of production remaining from Diavik’s three main pipes. The mine transitioned to all-underground operation in 2012. One pipe, A-21, has yet to be developed.

BHP shook up the rough diamond market six years ago by becoming the first major producer to sell its production (from Ekati) by auction instead of selling at set prices by the “sight” system of set-price contracts. But as Pounds noted, Dominion has gone back to the sight system to ensure consistency of supply.

“Supply consistency is very important,” he said. “Manufacturers have to know what they are getting.” Accurate pricing is also important, he added, so Dominion will continue to auction a portion of its production every six months to accurately gauge market price levels.

Analysts expect Dominion sales to top $800 million this year, up about 6% from 2013’s total of $751.9 million, due mainly to increased volume, not price increases. @chapter:49 @chapter:3 @chapter:49


# Publication Year: 2016
# Title: Sphalerite Inclusions in Namibian Demantoid
# Abstract: Figure 1. A brownish orange sphalerite inclusion in Namibian demantoid with a spheroidal diopside aggregate along its upper left side. Based on its morphology, the rhombohedral crystal on the upper right could be a calcite inclusion. Photomicrograph by Aaron Palke; field of view 0.72 mm.

The inclusion scene of skarn-related demantoid garnets from Namibia and Madagascar is dramatically different from that of serpentinite-hosted demantoid found in the classic locality of the Russian Urals. Reported inclusions in Namibian demantoid include diopside, wollastonite, quartz, calcite, fluid inclusions, and sphalerite (F. Koller et al., “The demantoid garnets of the Green Dragon mine (Tubussi, Erongo Region, Namibia),” Joint 5th Mineral Sciences in the Carpathians Conference and 3rd Central-European Mineralogical Conference, April 19–21, Miskolc, Hungary, 2012). Demantoid from Madagascar is reported to contain inclusions of diopside, wollastonite, fluid inclusions, and growth tubes (F. Pezzotta et al., “Demantoid and topazolite from Antetezambato, northern Madagascar: Review and new data,” Spring 2011 G&G, pp. 2–14). There has been little photomicrographic documentation of these inclusion suites, however.

In this contribution we document relatively rare sphalerite inclusions in a Namibian demantoid crystal. Figure 1 shows a translucent brownish orange sphalerite inclusion with a spheroidal diopside aggregate adhering to it (both identified by Raman spectroscopy). While a clear Raman signal could not be obtained on a nearby crystal, its rhombohedral morphology leads the author to speculate that it is a calcite inclusion. The two sphalerite inclusions seen in figure 2 are larger, so their color is a much darker orangy brown. The oblique fiber-optic illumination used in this photo highlights the highly lustrous surface of these sphalerite inclusions. Further photomicrographic documentation of the inclusion suites in demantoid from Namibia and Madagascar may help to identify inclusion scenes unique to these skarn deposits.

Figure 2. Oblique fiber-optic light illuminates the surface luster of these sphalerite crystals within a Namibian demantoid. Photomicrograph by Aaron Palke; field of view 0.84 mm. @chapter:12 @chapter:0 @chapter:12


# Publication Year: 2015
# Title: Exhibition Review: Glitterati: Portraits and Jewelry from Colonial Latin America
# Abstract: Figure 1. Tiara, Colombia or Ecuador, circa 1690. Silver gilt, emeralds, and pearls. Denver Art Museum, Gift of Robert J. Stroessner; 1992.74

In Glitterati: Portraits and Jewelry from Colonial Latin America, the Denver Art Museum (DAM) displays jewelry and portraiture, as well as furniture and other personal objects (figure 1), that reflect personal adornment traditions in all classes and walks of life during the Spanish colonization period in Mexico and South America (1521–1800). Various indigenous tribes have a long tradition of metalworking, and the land is abundant in natural resources. Gold and silver, along with emeralds and diamonds and organic materials such as pearls and coral, are plentiful in the regions covered by the exhibition. The fusion of old and new is a major theme of the exhibition and is expressed through materials, techniques, and design. The talents of the native people and the European jewelers meshed, resulting in glorious creations such as the ones on display.

The exhibit, from the DAM’s Spanish Colonial collection, features a wall of 19th century portraits of Incan rulers from Peru. The rulers use lovely stamped stickpins, called tupu, with flat, round heads to fasten their cloaks; two of these pins are on display nearby. The hammered gold of the pins uses a stamped and chased design to draw out themes of the sun and heavens on these lovely ornaments. A beautiful gold filigree crucifix filial, dating from the 17th century (figure 2), features cabochon emeralds. Close examination reveals tool marks indicating that these gems were recycled from other, older jewelry, perhaps from the pre-Columbian era. The stone’s rough cabochon shaping contrasts with the delicate metalwork. Filigree has roots in both the Spanish and regional cultures, and is used to great effect in this piece.

Figure 2. Cross finial, Colombia or Ecuador, circa 1600. Gold, emeralds, pearls. Denver
Art Museum, Gift of the Stapleton Foundation of Latin American Colonial Art made possible
by the Renchard family; 1990.526.
Pearls and coral are present in almost every piece shown. Records from Columbus’ landing in present-day Venezuela in 1498 indicate that the native women were adorned in pearl and coral beads. Nueva Cadiz was settled in part because of the rich pearl beds nearby. Pearls and coral were available to all members of this society. This is demonstrated in Manuel de Arrellano’s portrait “Rendering of a Mulatto,” which depicts a woman of African and Spanish descent draped in pearls (including a six-strand necklace), earrings and coral rings. These materials were still sought by the upper class, and the intricate tiara in figure 1, with its lustrous white pearls and large, angular emeralds in an intricate gilt setting, is testimony to this.  Even the clergy wore status symbols; priests wore rosaries, badges and rings, not to mention the richly chased silver and silver plate used to glorify God during mass. A collection of handpainted nuns’ badges, worn as brooches by women who devoted themselves to Christ, feature saints and the Virgin Mary. Not all pieces were so opulent, and you can also see examples of the blue glass beads that were brought to South America by the Spanish. In fact, the Philippine trade ships that brought new exotic gemstones and ivory also carried paste stones and other materials for the equivalent of modern-day costume jewelry.

Figure 3. Diego de Borgraf, Portrait of Saint Catherine of Alexandria (detail), Mexico, 1656.
Oil on canvas. Denver Art Museum, Gift of Frederick and Jan Mayer; 2011.426.
Portraiture featuring members of the upper class makes up a large portion of the exhibit. Intended to display the sitter at the height of their finery, military medals and heraldic symbols decorate the men while the woman drip with diamonds, pearls, and other precious gems set in tiaras, brooches, bracelets, rings, and necklaces.  Even religious figures were not exempt; St. Catherine of Alexandria, seen in figure 3, is shown with a gold and pearl diadem, drop earrings, ruby shoulder clips and a large ruby brooch, as well as the pearls sewn to her neckline. Much of the jewelry follows the European fashions of the time, including trends of the courts. Aside from these surface implications, it is fascinating to see how many of the artists used primary colors and simple dabs of gold, silver, and white highlights capture the sparkle and richness of the stones. While the exhibit could draw more parallels between the art of the native people and the society that developed after colonization, on the whole it is a glimpse into the opulent costuming traditions of the time.

Glitteratti: Portraits and Jewelry from Colonial Latin America will be on display through November 22nd, 2016, on the fifth floor of the Denver Art Museum, in the Spanish Colonial collection. Admission is included in the $10 fee for nonmember Colorado residents ($8 for seniors and college students). The museum is open 10 to 5 Saturday through Thursday, and 10 to 8 on Fridays. @chapter:25 @chapter:2 @chapter:25


# Publication Year: 2013
# Title: Black Diamond with Unusual Color Origin
# Abstract: Figure 1. A face-up view of the black diamond. Photo by Robison McMurtry.

              A 1.75 ct Fancy black round brilliant diamond (figure 1) was submitted to the Carlsbad laboratory for color origin determination. Natural black diamonds are usually colored by inclusions of sulfides, graphite or other mineral inclusions or, in rare cases, hydrogen-related clouds thatextend throughout the stone. Treated black diamonds are generally heavily fractured stones that are subjected to high-temperature, low-pressure treatment, which graphitizes the fractures, turning them black. Artificial irradiation can also produce a dark enough color so as to appear black, but this is less common (H. Kitawaki, “Gem diamonds: Causes and colors,” New Diamond and Frontier Carbon Technology, Vol. 17, No. 3, 2007, pp. 119–126).

Upon initial examination, the stone was noted to be covered in large, deeply penetrating fractures; therefore, high-pressure, low-temperature treatment was suspected. Yet closer examination revealed that the fractures were surrounded by dark brown radiation stains. Patches of non-fractured surface on the pavilion showed the normal transparency of diamond, causing the radiation staining to stand out in relief. Because radiation stains in diamond are inert to short-wave ultraviolet light, we placed the stone in a DTC DiamondView to confirm their identity. Figure 2 shows numerous fractures surrounded by dark bands, which are the radiation stains.

	Figure 2. A DiamondView image showing the pattern of inert radiation stains following the fractures in the stone. Image by Troy Ardon.

	Figure 3. This image of the pavilion shows the patchwork nature of the radiation staining. Photomicrograph by Troy Ardon; magnified 55×.
Natural radiation stains provide an important clue to the color origin of a diamond. Diamonds that have been naturally colored by radiation can have stains associated with that color, though this is not a definitive criterion. In this case, the stains are so numerous and thick that they cause the diamond color. A close-up view of the pavilion (figure 3) shows the relative transparency of the diamond contrasted with the highly saturated color of the radiation staining of the fractures. The coverage of the stains is so complete that only a few transparent areas canbe seen in the face-up view. Some of the color was due to the presence of small black inclusions, but most was due solely to the natural radiation stains, an unusual cause of color. @chapter:29 @chapter:1 @chapter:29


# Publication Year: 1998
# Title: Summer 1998 G&G Lab Notes
# Abstract: Calcite Colored by Inclusions
Diffusion Treated Corundum
Diamond Colored by Pink Coating
Diamond with Different Color Appearances Depending on Viewing Position
Manufactured Glass Represented as “Green Obsidian”
Cultured Pearls with Dolomite Beads
Cultured Pearls with Treated Black Color
Quartzite Dyed to Imitate Sugilite
An Unusual Sapphirine

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:18 @chapter:1 @chapter:18


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Titanium-Coated Tanzanite
# Abstract: These five tanzanite samples (0.39–0.82 ct) proved to be color-coated with titanium. Photo by Don Mengason.

                      Five faceted violetish blue stones, ranging from 0.39 to 0.82 ct (figure 1), were recently submitted to the Carlsbad laboratory for identification service. Standard gemological testing revealed a refractive index of 1.689–1.70 for all five samples. When observed using polarized light, each displayed a medium pleochroism. Specific gravity, measured using the hydrostatic method, was 3.37. These properties were consistent with tanzanite.

	Figure 2. This upper portion of a pavilion facet, examined in reflected light, shows a much higher luster than the lower, uncoated portion. Photomicrograph by Nathan Renfro; field of view 1.22 mm.
Microscopic examination showed that the material was relatively free of inclusions, but showed areas of abrasion along pavilion facet junctions. Observed using reflected light, the pavilion of each stone showed a significantly higher luster than the crown. Some individual facets even showed a variation in luster due to an incomplete distribution of the color coating (figure 2). When the samples were examined using diffuse transmitted light, the facet junctions and several chipped spots appeared much less saturated, which was consistent with a color coating (figure 3).

	Figure 3. The coating on this tanzanite’s pavilion has been worn away along the facet junctions and in some small chipped areas, revealing the less-saturated violet color of the tanzanite underneath. Photomicrograph by Nathan Renfro; field of view 2.90 mm.
Because tanzanite with a cobalt coating has previously been reported, all tanzanites submitted to the lab are routinely checked by energy-dispersive X-ray fluorescence (EDXRF) and microscopic examination. These five stones were also checked by EDXRF, but no cobalt was detected; however, all five showed a significant signal for titanium on their pavilions. No titanium was detected on the crowns. LA-ICP-MS was also used to confirm that the coated area contained significant titanium.

While color-enhancing coatings on tanzanite are occasionally seen at GIA’s laboratory, this is the first time we have examined tanzanite that has been color coated with titanium. @chapter:3 @chapter:0 @chapter:3


# Publication Year: 2016
# Title: “Punsiri”-type FTIR Spectral Features in Natural Yellow Sapphires
# Abstract: Figure 1. Ten of the 38 basalt-related yellow sapphires from this study. The specimens on the left, weighing 0.22–0.41 ct, are from the Anakie area in Queensland, Australia. The material on the right, ranging from 0.41 to 1.40 ct, comes from the Khao Ploi Waen area of Chanthaburi, Thailand. Photo by Nuttapol Kitdee.

	Recently, a yellow sapphire from Chanthaburi, Thailand, showed a spectrum associated with “Punsiri” high-temperature heat treatment of blue sapphire. In response, GIA’s Bangkok lab performed FTIR spectroscopy on 38 untreated natural basalt-related yellow sapphires (figure 1). Twenty-two of the samples were from the Anakie Gem Fields area in Queensland, Australia, and the remaining 16 from the Khao Ploi Waen area of Chanthaburi. All were collected from the mines by GIA field gemologists.

	Standard gemological testing of the Australian sapphires showed RI (nω) = 1.774 ± 0.001 and RI (ne) = 1.765 ± 0.001, with a birefringence of 0.009 ± 0.001. For the Thai sapphires, RI (nω) = 1.773 ± 0.001 and RI (ne) = 1.764 ± 0.001, with a birefringence of 0.009 ± 0.001. All the stones were inert under long-wave and short-wave UV radiation due to their very high iron content.

	Most of the Australian sapphires were yellow, whereas the Thai sapphires appeared greenish yellow. Only homogeneous yellow areas were analyzed by FTIR. Many of the stones (about 45% of the Australian stones and about 38% of the Thai stones) showed a characteristic Punsiri FTIR spectrum, consisting of a multiple band structure positioned around 2000−3300 cm−1 with peaks at 2025, 2137, 2258, 2413, 2463, 2627, 2990, 3032, and 3220 cm−1 (figure 2). These features have traditionally been considered indicative of heat treatment, since this pattern has only been observed in Punsiri-type heated blue sapphires (G. DuToit et al., “Beryllium treated blue sapphires: continuing market observations and update including the emergence of larger size stones,” GIA Research News, June 2009) that display multiband FTIR spectra around 3000 cm−1. This FTIR feature is attributed to the stretching vibration of the OH bond formed by the incorporation of hydrogen and host oxide ion in a publication about “magnesium-doped α-alumina” grown by the Verneuil method, where the IR absorption results are affected by the incorporation of hydrogen into a Mg-doped α-alumina (N. Fukatsu et al., “Incorporation of hydrogen into magnesium-doped α-alumina,” Solid State Ionics, Vol. 162, 2003, pp. 147−159). Since the samples were all collected in the field, it is extremely interesting to document that Punsiri-type FTIR spectra may be found in natural unheated yellow sapphires.

	Figure 2. FTIR spectra of natural yellow sapphires from Australia and Thailand in the 1800–3600 cm–1 range. The peaks shown here are similar to those observed in Punsiri heat-treated blue sapphire (black spectrum). Peaks at 2360 and 2340 cm–1 are related to CO2. Please note that the absorption coefficient of the Punsiri heat-treated blue sapphire (black spectrum) at the y-axis was divided by two.

	LA-ICP-MS showed trace elements of Mg, Ti, V, and Ga, with very high ppm levels of Fe (3000 ppma on average). Mg content (about 23 ppma) was higher than Ti content (approximately 16 ppma); thus, blue coloration is not seen in these stones. Since Be was not detected, there are no concerns about beryllium diffusion treatment, which is not surprising since these specimens were collected in the field.

	It appears as though the incorporation of hydrogen in corundum may form characteristic Punsiri-like FTIR features. Since these features were observed in natural basalt-related yellow sapphires from Australia and Thailand, careful consideration must be exercised when using FTIR to identify heat treatment in corundum. @chapter:19 @chapter:0 @chapter:19


# Publication Year: 2020
# Title: A Fossilized Shell Blister and Blister Pearl
# Abstract: Figure 1. Two fossilized specimens, a shell blister (left) and a blister pearl (right), both with their associated shell. Photo by Sood Oil (Judy) Chia; courtesy of Gina Latendresse, American Pearl Company, Inc.

Fossils are the remains or impressions of prehistoric organisms preserved from past geological ages. Some of the most common fossils are shells of various marine mollusks and, occasionally, their associated pearls (Winter 2015 Lab Notes, pp. 432–434). Recently two interesting fossilized specimens were studied by staff of GIA’s New York laboratory. One resembled a shell blister and the other a blister pearl, both with associated shell (figure 1).

Figure 2. Left: Clear striations are visible on the back of the shell blister (measuring approximately 24.4 × 18.6 × 6.5 mm). Photo by Sood Oil (Judy) Chia. Center: Cellular crystal growth patterns are evident on the back of the shell blister. Right: Columnar growth structures are prominent with the cross section of the shell fragment. Photomicrographs by Chunhui Zhou (center and right).
The smaller sample appeared to be a shell fragment measuring approximately 24.4 × 18.6 × 6.5 mm and weighing 12.62 ct. The back of the shell showed even striations and a cellular crystal growth pattern, while the cross section showed a columnar structure (figure 2). A shallow “bump” noted on the face side could be best described as a shell blister, according to a recent study (“Natural shell blisters and blister pearls: What’s the difference?” GIA Research News, https://www.gia.edu/gia-news-research/natural-shell-blisters-and-blister-pearls). No additional information was provided about this specimen.

Figure 3. A near-round blister pearl seen lightly attached to its host shell. Photo by Sood Oil (Judy) Chia.

Figure 4. Map of North America highlighting the shallow inland seaways present during the mid-Cretaceous period. The arrow indicates the present-day state of Kansas. © Colorado Plateau Geosystems Inc.
The second sample measured approximately 37 × 25 mm and weighed 32.63 ct. Its form resembled a concave shell fragment, and a near-round blister pearl was clearly attached to its inner surface (figure 3). According to our source, this specimen was found in Ellis County, Kansas, and formed within an Inoceramus mollusk genus (an extinct marine bivalve resembling the related winged pearly oysters of the extant genus Pteria). Fossils of the Inoceramus are commonly found in the Pierre Shale of the Western Interior Seaway in North America, where the state of Kansas lies today (figure 4). The specimen is reportedly estimated to be as much as 86 million years old.
EDXRF analysis detected low concentrations of manganese and high concentrations of strontium, typical of marine mollusks. Iron was also detected in both specimens, probably introduced through infiltration from the surrounding environment over millions of years. Microradiography did not reveal any clear internal growth structures. These two intriguing specimens created by Mother Nature and preserved by her until their discovery provide unique insights into ancient mollusks and their associated pearl or pearl-like companions. @chapter:11 @chapter:4 @chapter:11


# Publication Year: -
# Title: From Brazil to China: The Journey of Rubellite Tourmaline
# Abstract: After witnessing the mining of rubellite tourmaline at the Cruzeiro mine in Brazil, our representative was able to visit the factory in China where the mine’s stones are cut. Photo by Andrew Lucas/GIA, courtesy Cruzeiro mine.

                      In April 2014, a team from GIA traveled to Brazil to document some of the country’s most important emerald and tourmaline mines. One of the mines the group visited was the Cruzeiro, owned by Nevestones, a family company. The Cruzeiro is a prolific Brazilian tourmaline mine that produces about eight tons of tourmaline each year, 20 percent of which is rubellite.

	Cutting in China

	This video takes you through the cutting factory and headquarters of a company that fashions large quantities of tourmaline and other colored gemstones for China and the global market. You’ll also witness the creation of a faceted colored stone.
In June 2014, a member of the GIA team, Andrew Lucas, traveled to Asia to attend Gemfields’ first Mozambique ruby auction in Singapore and to teach a two-week GIA law enforcement gemology seminar in Hong Kong. While there, he visited the Hong Kong office and Shenzhen factory where Cruzeiro’s rubellite is fashioned and distributed to the market.

	The Miranda Group
Our representative’s documentation of the journey of rubellite tourmaline from Brazil to China began at the Hong Kong office of Miranda Group Co. Ltd. There, he interviewed Miranda Costa, a co-founder of the company. They spoke in detail about his experience in the market and the connection between Brazil’s rubellite tourmaline and the Chinese market. Mr. Costa had been a partner in Miranda Gem Hong Kong between 2005 and 2009. When that company closed in 2009, Mr. Costa co-founded Miranda Group Co. Ltd.

Miranda Costa of Miranda Group Co. Ltd. examines parcels of rubellite that were cut at the company’s factory in Shenzhen. Photo by Andrew Lucas/GIA, courtesy Miranda Group Co. Ltd.
The Miranda Group started working with rubellite in 2010 and entered into a joint venture with KGK, a global diamond, colored stone, and jewelry wholesaler, to acquire and market rubellite in China. At that time, the Miranda Group was buying rubellite from Africa. In 2011, they started working with the Cruzeiro mine and its owners, the Neves family.

	The Business Model
Today, the Cruzeiro mine, the Miranda Group, and KGK work together to bring Brazil’s rubellite tourmaline to the market in China. The Cruzeiro mine provides the rough rubellite to the Miranda Group, which cuts the material. The rough crystals are sliced or sawn in the Miranda Group office in Hong Kong, and then faceted and polished at the factory in Shenzhen, China. The stones then go to KGK’s factory and offices in Panyu, China.

KGK markets and sells the cut stones and also mounts cut stones into jewelry for sale, primarily in China. The Cruzeiro mine also cuts its own facet-grade green and blue tourmaline in Brazil and produces bicolor and multicolor tourmaline, which the Miranda Group has been cutting and stockpiling.

Rubellite rough is sawn at Miranda Group Co. Ltd. facilities in Hong Kong before being sent to the factory in Shenzhen for preforming and faceting. Photo by Andrew Lucas/GIA, courtesy Miranda Group Co. Ltd.
The Miranda Group can cut about 25,000 to 30,000 carats a month at their factory in Shenzhen. They then provide the cut stones to KGK. The Miranda Group also works with bicolor tourmaline, aquamarine, morganite, emerald, and Mozambique ruby. They cut these materials and work with KGK to sell primarily to the Chinese market. They also deal in Mozambique copper-bearing tourmaline and Brazilian Paraíba tourmaline which, in cooperation with KGK, they will supply to the market in 2015.

The factory in Shenzhen was cutting tourmaline as well as morganite during the visit. Photo by Andrew Lucas/GIA, courtesy Miranda Group Co. Ltd.

After cutting a parcel of rubellite, the factory turned to cutting morganite, which has been growing in popularity in China. This rough morganite crystal is being sawn as part of the process. Photo by Andrew Lucas/GIA, courtesy Miranda Group Co. Ltd.

	Interview with Miranda Costa

	Fashioned Rubellite Production
The Miranda Group needs to receive 100 kilos of rough rubellite a month to meet its production goal of 25,000 to 30,000 carats. They promote more-included material for beads and carvings. The company’s goals for facet-grade material are to produce clean stones that meet the requirements of the high-end Chinese market.

Maintaining quality cutting procedures, resulting in clean stones, is of optimum concern in the factory. Photo by Andrew Lucas/GIA, courtesy Miranda Group Co. Ltd.
In the United States, the Miranda Group plans to market gems of three carats or smaller, to meet what they feel is the right price point for that market. In China, there is a ready market for sizes over three carats, including very large sizes of 100 carats or more.

Miranda Costa estimates that the demand from the Chinese market has caused the price of rubellite tourmaline to double over the last three years. Even though there is current resistance to the high prices, the company still finds it difficult to meet the demand for fine-quality faceted stones, so he thinks there is still room for price increases.

At the Miranda Group Co. Ltd. office in Hong Kong, parcels of fine-color, clean rubellites in large sizes were being sorted for delivery to KGK. Photo by Andrew Lucas/GIA, courtesy Miranda Group Co. Ltd.
For high-end consumers, the rubellite needs to be well proportioned, bright, and clean, and have fine color. Because these qualities are essential, the Miranda Group only gets about 12 percent weight retention from the rough.

The faceting equipment was optimized for precision and speed. Some machines use a two-wheel set-up that cuts the facets and then polishes them without a need for stopping and changing wheels. Photo by Andrew Lucas/GIA, courtesy Miranda Group Co. Ltd.
Since many of the crystals from the Cruzeiro mine are bicolor or multicolored, the Miranda Group also cuts that material. Many of the tourmaline crystals from Cruzeiro are zoned with black, green, and rubellite colors. The Miranda Group has been cutting and accumulating green-and-rubellite material over the last two years, so they have about 80,000 to 100,000 carats in stock now. They plan on marketing it in the US and China in the near future.

The Miranda Group obtains green-and-rubellite bicolor tourmaline rough for cutting. Photo by Andrew Lucas/GIA, courtesy Miranda Group Co. Ltd.

The Miranda Group is stockpiling inventory to launch a marketing campaign with KGK for bicolor tourmaline. Photo by Andrew Lucas/GIA, courtesy Miranda Group Co. Ltd.
Comparing Brazilian rubellite tourmaline rough to the material Miranda Costa used to get from Nigeria, he finds the Cruzeiro material to be cleaner, with better crystallization and more even color.  Mr. Costa sees much less Nigerian material on the market today, and the prices are much higher than when the company was buying large quantities in 2010.

Brazilian rough can yield fine-color, clean, bright, and good-sized stones. However, to meet those standards, the weight loss is high, saving only an average of 12 percent of the rough weight. Photo by Andrew Lucas/GIA, courtesy Miranda Group Co. Ltd.

	Completing the Journey
Visiting a mining operation and witnessing the challenges involved in bringing colored gemstones out of the earth gives you a sense of perspective on how rare and valuable they really are. It’s exhilarating to observe the production at a prolific mine like the Cruzeiro, where impressive crystals come right out of the ground in large quantities. It’s also satisfying to complete the journey by seeing the rough crystals turned into beautiful faceted stones. Finally, seeing the ferocious and increasing appetite of a consuming country for the material puts the relationship between supply and demand perfectly in perspective. @chapter:17 @chapter:0 @chapter:17


# Publication Year: 2020
# Title: Black Star Sapphire with Dual Treatments
# Abstract: Figure 1. The 75 ct black star sapphire that was brought in for testing. Photo by Wimon Manorotkul.

Black star sapphires primarily come from Kenya, Australia, and Thailand. Unlike other star sapphires and rubies, the asterism in these stones generally results from the exsolution of ilmenite (FeTiO3) and/or hematite (α-Fe2O3) instead of rutile (TiO2). Rutile and ilmenite/hematite exsolve in different directions: rutile along the second-order hexagonal prism {112̅0} and ilmenite along the first-order hexagonal prism {101̅0}. If both are present in the same stone, a 12-ray star results. The ilmenite/hematite crystals are far more “platy,” and thus their layers tend to form planes of weakness. Breakage along those planes is termed parting. Parting differs from cleavage in that it results from structural planes of weakness due to imperfect growth rather than inherent weakness. There are often two different parting planes in the stones. One corresponds to the exsolution of ilmenite/hematite in the plane of the basal pinacoid {0001}. The other corresponds to planes of exsolved boehmite/diaspore along the rhombohedron {101̅1}.
In Thailand, one often sees cavities on the back of black star sapphires filled in with brown dopping varnish. It is only the basal parting that comes into play with black star sapphires, because the exsolved hematite that causes the lack of adhesion is only in the basal plane. It is because of this parting that the stones get filled with dopping varnish, to conceal large holes in the base. Note that the type of dopping varnish is of a color that matches the stone.

Figure 2. Left: Two large pits on the base of the star sapphire contain brown dopping varnish (the white areas are adhesive from tape). Field of view 30 mm. Right: Under long-wave ultraviolet light (365 nm), the dopping shellac fluoresced bright orange. Field of view 27 mm. Photomicrographs by Richard W. Hughes.
In May 2020, a client submitted a large 75 ct black star sapphire for testing (figure 1). The base of the stone contained two large pits filled with brown dopping shellac (figure 12, left). Interestingly enough, the shellac fluoresced bright orange under long-wave ultraviolet light (365 nm) (figure 2, right). Following the client’s approval, we removed the shellac with alcohol and noticed a curved area exhibiting an unusual flow-like structure that looked suspiciously like glass. Unfortunately, attempting to get a Raman spectrum on the area was unsuccessful.

Figure 3. A close-up view of the shellac in the lower pit revealed trapped gas bubbles and black debris. Photomicrograph by Richard W. Hughes; field of view 5 mm.
Careful microscopic examination showed what looked like gas bubbles trapped between the glassy material and the sapphire below (figure 3). Scratching the surface of the cavity with a number 7 hardness point confirmed that the area could not be corundum. Immersing the gem in methylene iodide showed the glassy area to cover roughly two-thirds of the base of the cabochon (figure 4). Energy-dispersive x-ray fluorescence (EDXRF) testing on the area suspected to be glass revealed a lead (Pb) component of over 3%.

Figure 4. Immersion in methylene diiodomethane (n = 1.741) reveals the extent of the glass filling on the base of the cabochon (the dark area that spreads across a large portion of the base). Photomicrograph by Richard W. Hughes; field of view 30 mm.
A variety of tests were brought to bear on this specimen, from the simple (hardness) to the high-tech (EDXRF). The results of these tests revealed a gem that had been treated by filling with two different substances: glass and dopping varnish. @chapter:19 @chapter:0 @chapter:19


# Publication Year: 1996
# Title: Spring 1996 G&G Book Reviews
# Abstract: “Synthetic Diamond: Emerging CVD Science and Technology”
By K. E. Spear and J. P. Dismukes (Eds.), 663 pp., illus., publ. by John Wiley & Sons, New York City, 1994. US$89.95

“The Peking Diamonds”
By Peter Read, 208 pp., publ. by Gembooks, Dorset, United Kingdom, 1995. US$17.00

“Colorado Rockhounding, A Guide to Minerals, Gemstones, and Fossils”
by Stephen M. Voynick, 372 pp., illus., publ. by Mountain Press Publishing Co., Missoula, MT, 1994, US$14.00 (paper)

“Mineral Books”
a special issue of Mineralogical Record, Vol. 26, No. 4, July-August 1995, 256 pp., illus., publ. by Mineralogical Record, Tucson, AZ, 1995, US$24.00* (hardcover with supplementary text, US$49.00

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:35 @chapter:1 @chapter:35


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Winter 2018 G&G: The Color Origins of Pink-to-Red Diamonds and Gem-Grade Diaspore, and Gemological Characteristics of Pearls from P. Maculata
# Abstract: Gemstones are often shrouded in mystery, waiting for the right team to tease out their origins and identifying characteristics. The Winter 2018 issue of Gems & Gemology reveals the color origins of breathtaking pink diamonds, the fascinating story behind Russia’s Amber Room, and insight into the rare natural “pipi” pearls from Pinctada maculata mollusks. Also included are the color origins of the color-change diaspore known as Zultanite; the unusual combination of corundum core and spinel rim that emerges from a deposit in northern Vietnam; and a new wall chart of internal features in natural, synthetic, and treated diamond.
Natural-Color Pink, Purple, Red, and Brown Diamonds: Band of Many Colors
Fancy-color diamonds in the pink to red range have been in the public eye thanks to the recent auction of the Winston Pink Legacy for $50 million. Gem-quality diamonds in this color range are exceedingly rare and highly valued. In this third article in& G&G’s series on colored diamonds, Sally Eaton-Magaña and her coauthors survey the characteristics of the more than 90,000 diamonds in the pink to red color range—which includes browns and purples—examined by GIA between 2008 and 2016.
The History and Reconstruction of the Amber Room
The original Amber Room, constructed for the king of Prussia, contained panels of magnificently carved and decorated Baltic amber. This sumptuous room was gifted to Russia in the early eighteenth century and eventually installed in the Catherine Palace near St. Petersburg. It remained in place until World War II, when German troops seized the panels and the palace was destroyed. The panels were last seen in 1945, and their disappearance remains a mystery. Russell Shor’s article recounts the history of the original Amber Room as well as the decades-long effort to faithfully restore it.
The Color Origin of Gem Diaspore: Correlation to Corundum
Color-change diaspore, also known as Zultanite, is an increasingly important material in the gem market. Che Shen and Ren Lu examine the material’s color origin using spectroscopy and laser ablation–inductively coupled plasma–mass spectrometry (LA-ICP-MS). Because gem diaspore and corundum are structurally similar and share the same chromophores, the study also compares the effectiveness of chromophores between the two.
Corundum with Spinel Corona from the Tan Huong–Truc Lau Area in Northern Vietnam
In primary and secondary placer deposits of Vietnam’s Tan Huong–Truc Lau area, it is not unusual to find rubies and sapphire with a spinel “rim” or corona. A team of researchers led by Nguyen Ngoc Khoi studied dozens of these specimens in an effort to explain the genesis of the corona. They theorize that during a certain stage of high-grade metamorphism, corundum reacts with biotite, garnet, or dolomite to form the spinel corona.
The Gemological Characteristics of Pipi Pearls Reportedly from Pinctada Maculata
Nanthaporn Nilpetploy and her coauthors review the rare natural pearls from the Pinctada maculata mollusk known as “pipi” pearls. Spectroscopic results showed some characteristic patterns in these small pearls, such as a distinct absorption feature around 495 nm in the UV-Vis spectra and peaks at 1380 and 1540 cm–1 in the Raman spectra. Findings from the study may aid in the separation of pipi pearls from material produced by other related mollusk species.
Inclusions in Natural, Synthetic, and Treated Diamond
Our chart series on the internal world of gemstones continues with diamond, displaying the most common inclusions in 30 stunning photomicrographs captured by Nathan Renfro, John Koivula, Jonathan Muyal, and Shane McClure. The foldout wall chart is accompanied by a short article about diamond inclusions and a suggested reading list.
Lab Notes
GIA’s labs around the world receive specimens that are striking or noteworthy. The Winter issue includes entries on a rare ruby from the state of Montana; a cat’s-eye Paraíba tourmaline from Brazil; and analysis of De Beers’ Lightbox CVD-grown diamonds.
Diamonds from the Deep
Our newest column focuses on the geology of natural diamonds. In this installment, Karen Smit and Steven Shirey explore the formation and importance of so-called “superdeep” diamonds, those that form outside of the conventional depths (150–200 km) within the mantle at depths of at least 410 to 660 km.
Micro-World
G&G’s quarterly gallery of gemstone inclusions offers a rose-shaped inclusion in a demantoid host, a zircon and monazite cluster in an Ethiopian sapphire, and a large, well-formed rutile inclusion in a rock crystal quartz.
Gem News International
Our correspondents from around the world contribute their most recent news and findings to the Gem News International section. This edition features preliminary observations of sapphires treated with heat and pressure, a coated pink synthetic moissanite, and a synthetic moissanite imitating a rough diamond.
2018 Dr. Edward J. Gübelin Most Valuable Article Award
Gems & Gemology once again invites our readers to vote on the three most important articles from the past year. Each completed ballot is entered into a drawing for a one-year subscription to G&G. Ballots for the 2018 Most Valuable Article Award must be submitted by March 11, 2019. @chapter:52 @chapter:1 @chapter:52


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Panyu: A Legendary Manufacturing Hub for the Global Gem and Jewelry Industry
# Abstract: The Pearl River is the third longest river in China. It cuts through the city of Guangzhou and connects some of the most developed areas in southern China. The scenery along the river has become a main tourist attraction. Photo by Eric Welch/GIA.

                      When talking about jewelry manufacturing, one can’t ignore Panyu, a small district of Guangzhou, the capital of China’s Guangdong province. Panyu is located at the center of the Pearl River Delta, one of mainland China’s most economically developed areas. Over the past 30 years, Panyu has gradually evolved into one of the world’s main jewelry manufacturing centers. This was made possible by its well-established transportation network and the tight connection with its “twin city” of Hong Kong, along with the support of the central and local governments.

The gem and jewelry industry in Panyu was established in 1986, and now accounts for about 25 percent of Hong Kong’s and mainland China’s combined annual jewelry exports and 60 percent of annual nationwide jewelry production. Panyu workers set more than 70 tons of colored stones into jewelry every year. Panyu’s jewelry exports surged from $2.53 billion in 2011 to $4.13 billion in 2013, with an annual growth rate of almost 28 percent. Seventy percent of jewelry exported from Hong Kong and 90 percent of jewelry branded and sold in Hong Kong is manufactured in Panyu.

In recent years, Hong Kong producers have placed more emphasis on the creative and design side of jewelry manufacturing, leading to higher labor costs. As a result, mass commercial production has mostly moved to Panyu, merging its gem and jewelry industry with Hong Kong’s. Currently, many local and international jewelry brands manufacture their products in Panyu.

Panyu also has more than 1,600 colored stone cutting factories. Panyu gem cutters created the world famous “China Cut” for diamonds and colored stones. It has now become a worldwide brand and the pride of Chinese gem and jewelry manufacturers.

Location Map

The Pearl River Delta enjoys an ideal geographical location and a close connection to Hong Kong. These factors have made it one of the most economically developed areas in mainland China since the country opened to the rest of the world in the late 1970s.
In the summer of 2013, GIA sent a team to explore the Chinese gem and jewelry industry. They were guided by Mr. Wilson Yun, an ex-president of the International Colored Gemstone Association (ICA). Mr. Yun introduced the GIA team to local industry leaders and provided us with an in-depth view of the many attributes of this legendary area.

	Panyu Gem and Jewelry Industry

	Panyu Gem and Jewelry Industry

	Shawan Jewelry Park: A One-Stop Solution
Shawan is a subsidiary district of Panyu. The Shawan Jewelry Park was originally established in 2002 as a gold manufacturing center but its management and strategy changed after 2006. It is now home to jewelry factories, trading offices, an industry service center, and trade organizations. It also hosts tourists and has a large-scale living area for factory employees. In the park, the GIA team visited a well-known jewelry factory and the central business service center.

Noble Jewelry Holdings Ltd. is a Hong Kong-based company that was formed in 1983. The company specializes in jewelry design, manufacture, and trading. It was one of the first companies to set its factory in Shawan Jewelry Park. Thirty percent of its products are exported to the Middle East, making the company one of the largest suppliers of high-end jewelry in the area.

Many well-known jewelry brands have established factories in the Shawan Jewelry Park. The park’s scenery features attractive buildings and bold sculptures. Photo by Eric Welch/GIA.
Our group was highly impressed with the factory’s design department, considered by Noble to be at the core of its market competitiveness. The department is divided into groups that specialize in designs for different countries and areas. Designers are predominantly young college graduates with jewelry design majors. To keep up with the fashion trends, the company invests in sending its designers to study different countries and areas. These efforts make it possible for Noble to debut over 10,000 jewelry designs each year. Many of them have won domestic and international design awards.

	Noble JewelryManufacturing Plant

	Noble Jewelry Manufacturing Plant
The park’s management provides a central service center to facilitate business for its members. Customs, express transportation, and gem-testing services are all located inside the center. Business owners can complete all of the necessary steps to export their goods without leaving the park.

	Shawan Jewelry Park

	Shawan Jewelry Park
Besides providing services for the business enterprises, the park also has a large dormitory area for employees. Comfortable living conditions and a safe and friendly environment help to attract young workers to Panyu. Skillful and productive young workers are important for the future of China’s gem and jewelry industry, as increased human labor costs have become a serious problem for many business owners.

	Colored Stone Cutting
Colored stone cutting is another pillar of the Panyu gem and jewelry industry. The team visited the cutting factory of Hutang Gems & Jewelry Ltd., founded in 1992. Mr.Wu Jianping, owner of Hutang, informed us that he started the business in Guangdong and moved to Panyu after a few years. What keeps him in Panyu are the strong government support of the industry, the business services, and the rich human and economic resources.

Mr. Wu also proudly expressed to us that the key to his success in the current global industry is that he maintains very strict quality control in his factory, which currently adds more quality control staff than cutters and goldsmiths.

	Hutang Cutting Factory

	Hutang Cutting Factory
The gemstones cut in Mr. Wu’s factory include peridot, amethyst, citrine, garnet, and chrome diopside. The company has been transformed from simply a colored stone cutting business to one that includes both stone cutting and jewelry design and manufacturing. Mr. Wu plans to develop his business to cover the whole value chain, from mine to market, in the future. Currently, most production is for export. He has already opened trading offices in Hong Kong and Los Angeles, California, US. In 2013, he invested in an e-commerce team to establish a company sales website.

Hutang, with more than 23 years of experience in colored stone cutting, recently started its own jewelry manufacturing enterprise. Hutang also opened a sales office in Los Angeles to target the US market. Courtesy Hutang.

The Greater Panyu Area: Shared benefits and resources
Many of Panyu’s existing resources are shared with its surrounding towns, a few of which have also developed into jewelry manufacturing hubs. Hong Kong’s big three—Chow Tai Fook, Chow Sang Sang, and Luk Fook—have all opened factories in the greater Panyu area.

Chow Tai Fook has both its diamond cutting and jewelry manufacturing facilities in Foshan, a city immediately to the west of Panyu. Earlier this year, Chow Sang Sang also opened a center in Foshan to further raise its production capacity in mainland China. The jeweler moved from Guangzhou to Hong Kong in 1948 and had 298 stores on the mainland by the end of 2013.

In 2003, Luk Fook opened its jewelry factory in Nansha District, immediately to the south of Panyu. Luk Fook was founded in Hong Kong in 1991. As the youngest of the big three, its growth in mainland China has been extremely fast. The jeweler operates 1,350 retail stores globally.

Chow Tai Fook is the largest jewelry retailer in the world. Its diamond cutting facility and jewelry manufacturing plant are both located in Foshan, a town immediately to the west of Panyu. Courtesy Chow Tai Fook.
In 1988, Yue Shun Fook Jewelry and Diamond Co. Ltd. opened its first diamond cutting and jewelry manufacturing factories in Foshan. The company, which had partnered with Chow Tai Fook for a long time, finally became a subsidiary of Chow Tai Fook in 2011. The GIA team visited both the Chow Tai Fook diamond cutting (http://www.gia.edu/gia-news-research-chowtai-fook-hsu) and jewelry manufacturing factories in Foshan.

	Chow Tai Fook is a DTC sightholder. Its diamond wedding jewelry is a best-seller in China.
	All the work—from rough diamond cutting to finished ring—is done in Foshan. Courtesy
	Chow Tai Fook.

After our tour of the jewelry factory, executive staff introduced their product strategy and showed us some representative high-end jewelry pieces. The factory applies both traditional and advanced techniques. Some of their lines are manufactured using automatic wax injection into rubber molds. This process can increase efficiency by 20 percent with about 5 percent less product failure. Laser welding technology is used to fix the surface defects that result from precious metal casting, such as very tiny pits. Its use is not very common among small-scale jewelry manufacturers.

They use die-striking and electroforming to make some commercial gold jewelry and decorations, while other high-end jewelry is made by hand. All employees are very focused on the details of their work, and commonly use jewelers’ loupes for quality checks. The skill, efficiency, and technology this manufacturer demands are all at the forefront of their operating philosophy.

	Chow Tai Fook Jewelry Factory

	Chow Tai Fook Jewelry Factory

	Transformation and Upgrading
Besides the Pearl River Delta cluster of jewelry industry firms, there are two other clusters in mainland China: the Yangtze River Delta cluster and the Bohai Coastal Region cluster. Clustering offers shared resources, reduced costs, and mass promotion and helps to increase the competitiveness of the local industry.

Jewelry Clusters

After more than 30 years of development, three major gem and jewelry industry clusters have formed along the east and southeast coasts of China.
Compared to the other two younger clusters, Panyu had its golden development period at the beginning of the 1980s, when labor costs were extremely low. Along with the critical geographic location and strong initial investment, the low start-up costs made this region to some degree the best jewelry industry cluster so far in China.

The Chow Tai Fook jewelry manufacturing plant in Foshan employs highly skilled stone setters. Incorporating technology, such as advanced microscopes, aids in intricate stone-setting and also helps increase quality and production to overcome higher labor costs. Courtesy Chow Tai Fook.
The situation has changed a lot in the past decade. The lowest monthly wages in Guangzhou have increased from 770 to 1550 yuan (about US $125 to $250) over the past 10 years, while the price of jewelry products has not changed very much. Many jewelry manufacturers claim they have had to raise employees’ wages about 15 percent each year over the past several years. Thus, their profit margin is narrowing. Another problem arises from the reliance on exports and external economies.

To address the increasing costs, many factories have invested in more-advanced manufacturing technologies to reduce long-term labor costs, and opened online sales platforms. For example, Shawan Jewelry Industry Park has launched an e-commerce platform that provides services such as warehousing, import and export customs clearance, transportation, and even insurance.

According to the director of the Panyu branch of the China Council for the Promotion of International Trade (CCPIT), the jewelry industry will have to expand further into the domestic market. The Guangzhou Panyu Jewelry Manufacturers Association also works together with business owners to brand the products from all over the Panyu and Pearl River Delta industrial cluster.

The first annual Guangzhou Panyu Jewelry Cultural Festival was held in Panyu at the end of November, 2014. This event will become an annual platform designed specifically for local businesses to display their products and images and to promote jewelry made in Panyu to the rest of the country and the world. Almost all of the participants agree that innovation, technology, and branding will be the key factors keeping the industry advancing in the future. @chapter:32 @chapter:3 @chapter:32


# Publication Year: 1989
# Title: Chicken-Blood Stone from China
# Abstract: "Chicken-blood" stone is one of the most prized ornamental materials in China, especially for use in elaborate carvings and seals. A fine-grained mixture of dickite/kaolinite and quartz, with varying amounts of red cinnabar, chicken-blood stone is found in only two localities in China: Chunghua and Balinyouqi. This article describes this material and its gemological properties as well as the occurrence at the two known localities. @chapter:51 @chapter:0 @chapter:51


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Turquoise Quality Factors
# Abstract: The green turquoise cabochon, from an American mine, might become part of a designer’s unique jewelry piece. The even blue color of the cabochon on the right would be called “Persian blue” in the trade. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA, Dr. Eduard J. Gübelin collection.

Fine-quality turquoise is sought after around the world by designers of unusual jewelry pieces.

Typically, turquoise is judged on three basic quality factors—color, texture, and the presence or absence of matrix.
Turquoise Color
Blue Turquoise
The most-prized turquoise color is an even, intense, medium blue, sometimes referred to as robin’s egg blue or sky blue in the trade. The traditional source for this color is the Nishapur district of Iran, so you’ll also hear it described as “Persian blue,” whether or not it was actually mined in Iran.

Green Turquoise
Generally speaking, turquoise with a green to greenish blue color is less desirable than turquoise with a pure blue hue, but it depends on personal preference. There are some contemporary designers who actively seek avocado and lime green turquoise.

The turquoise in the brooch and graduated bead strands is from Arizona’s Sleeping Beauty Mine. Its smooth, even color represents the appearance prized by most collectors. - Photo: Valerie Power/GIA. Courtesy: GLEAM
- Courtesy GLEAM
Turquoise Pattern
Turquoise can be semitranslucent to opaque, with a color that usually ranges from light to medium blue or greenish blue. It’s often mottled and sometimes has dark splotches. It might also have veins of matrix running through it (matrix is a remnant of its surrounding rock). The material known as spiderweb turquoise contains fine seams of matrix that form attractive web-like patterns.

These free-form turquoise cabochons show a typical matrix pattern. Photo: GIA
The most valuable turquoise is an even medium blue, with no matrix and the ability to take a good polish.
Turquoise Cut
Turquoise is most often cut as a cabochon. The smoothly rounded dome shape sets off turquoise’s color, texture, and any matrix beautifully. In addition, manufacturers and artisans fashion turquoise into round or oblong beads for strand necklaces, and into small, flat pieces that are popular in jewelry inlays. Some top-color blue turquoise is engraved with Persian or Arabic inscriptions, inlaid with gold. Lower-quality rough material might be tumbled into “nuggets."

This stylish and unusual “Pegged Nugget” bracelet contains about 100 flat turquoise nuggets that are attached with flat silver pegs. -– Photo: Maha Tannous/GIA. Gift of Robert Lee Morris

This intarsia box created by Nicolai Medvedev includes flat pieces of turquoise as part of its inlaid design. -– Photo © GIA & Tino Hammid, gift of Carol and Fred Seeman
Turquoise Carat Weight
Turquoise is weighed in carats, and five carats equal one gram. Turquoise is available in a wide range of sizes. All sizes, even very small stones, are used in Native American jewelry, and large pieces of turquoise rough are popular for carvings. For any size, the quality and evenness of the color is the overriding value factor.

A single large piece of rough can yield severalmuch smaller pieces of fine, evenly colored turquoise. A gem cutter has to work around the host rock to avoid ending up with a much less valuable gem. Photo: GIA, Dr. Eduard J. Gübelin collection. @chapter:30 @chapter:0 @chapter:30


# Publication Year: -
# Title: An Inside Look at the 2013 Tucson Shows
# Abstract: View Gallery

Every February, in Tucson, Arizona, the global colored gemstone industry comes together for one of the biggest gem shows in the world. Dealers, cutters, and miners descend on this town from all parts of the globe, bringing with them an amazing array of gems.

All kinds of gemstones, from emerald to agate and ruby to meteorites, are found in Tucson at this time, along with the industry leaders who bring these stones to market.

GIA interviewed a number of industry professionals to gain insight into the overall global market, as well as individual areas of expertise. Links to these informative interviews are listed below.

Rajneesh Bhandari, RMC Gems Thai Co. Ltd.
Mr. Bhandari is an expert in gem treatments, gemstone synthesis processes, and the creation of imitation gemstones. All of these are topics of the utmost importance to the trade and consumers alike. In these interviews, Mr. Bhandari discusses imitations of morganite beryl and bi-color tourmaline as well as the use of thin film coatings on gemstones and the future of treatments.
Learn More

Dudley Blauwet, Dudley Blauwet Gems
Mr. Blauwet is a colored gemstone dealer with decades of experience. His journeys to buy colored gemstones take him to deposits all over the world, including South East Asia, Central Asia, Africa and other localities. Join Mr. Blauwet as he describes his latest travels and the world’s supply of colored gemstones.
Learn More

Edward Boehm, Rare Source
Mr. Boehm is a geologist, gemologist, and accomplished gem dealer who works with rare and higher-end gems. He has traveled to a wide variety of gem sources across the globe and often speaks on both the supply and demand side of the market. Mr. Boehm discusses the overall colored gemstone market as well as markets for specific gemstones in his interviews.
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Bruce Bridges, Bridges Tsavorite
Mr. Bridges grew up in the colored gemstone market, working with his famous father Campbell Bridges at the prolific tsavorite-producing Scorpion Mine near Tsavo Park in Kenya. Mr. Bridges discusses the history of tsavorite mining, current production, and tsavorite qualities, as well as the assassination of his father and the current legal situation.
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Evan Caplan, Evan Caplan Fine Gemstones
Mr. Caplan is well known in the colored gemstone industry as a knowledgeable dealer in the upper end of the market. In his interviews, Mr. Caplan gives his insight into why supplies are tight and demand is high, as well as what he feels lies ahead.
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Paula Crevoshay, Crevoshay
Paula Crevoshay is a world renowned designer who is driven by uncompromising passion for her work. She has been dubbed the “Queen of Color” by the trade press. In these interviews, she conveys her philosophy of jewelry design and her sources of inspiration. She also describes some of her own magnificent pieces in detail.
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Michael M. Dyber, Ledge Art Studio
Mr. Dyber is a leading designer-gemstone cutter and carver. He has faceted and carved a variety of gemstones. He looks at the rough material and its potential as a true artist would. In these extensive interviews, Mr. Dyber discusses all aspects of artistic gem cutting and carving.
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Arthur Groom, Arthur Groom and Company
Mr. Groom is an expert on the emerald market as well as on emerald enhancement. His business encompasses buying rough emerald at sources around the world, including Afghanistan, as well as emerald cutting and enhancements, wholesale trading, and retail sales. In his interviews, Mr. Groom discusses the Afghan emerald market, evaluation of emerald rough, and describing emerald quality. During the interview, he describes a variety of emeralds he has on hand.
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Bob Halem, Manager, Royal West Warehouse
Mr. Halem was at the Tucson show with a large variety of quartz geodes as part of his inventory. He spoke to us on a wealth of topics, from geode sources, quartz treatments, geode cutting, evaluating geode qualities, packing geodes, and the geode business.
Learn More

Susie Kennedy, ICA Director, Susie Kennedy Jewelry, Ltd. and The Kennedy’s International
Mrs. Kennedy has been involved in all aspects of the colored stone industry. With her husband, she has truly been involved in the entire mine-to-market value chain. In her interviews, Mrs. Kennedy discusses gemstone production and the industry in East Africa and the future of mining in Africa. She also describes her start in the gem industry and gives perhaps the best advice around on building a career and creating a networking system in the gem business. Mrs. Kennedy also describes how she met a tight deadline to provide then-Secretary of State Hillary Clinton with a magnificent pair of tanzanite earrings for a dinner with the President of Tanzania.
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Moussa Konate, BC Gemas do Brazil
Mr. Konate is intimately involved in the mining of copper-bearing tourmaline, as well as some aquamarine, in Mozambique. He has been a driving force in copper-bearing tourmaline production. During his interviews, Mr. Konate discusses current production of copper-bearing tourmaline in Mozambique, changes at the mine site, the market for African copper-bearing tourmaline, and the Mozambique aquamarine mine he is involved in.
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Jeff Mason, President, Mason-Kay, Inc.
Mr. Mason is highly experienced in the jadeite market and is a prominent dealer of a variety of jadeite colors and cutting styles. In these interviews, he discusses the highly specialized market for jadeite, as well as jadeite treatments and carvings.
Learn More

Sam Naseri, Global Gems
Mr. Naseri was at Tucson with a large quantity of rough lapis lazuli, along with other materials like sugilite, and a variety of beads. He has been in the gem business since childhood and travels to Afghanistan to buy lapis lazuli. In his interviews, Mr. Naseri discusses all aspects of trading in lapis lazuli from Afghanistan, including government regulations, transportation of material, evaluating quality, old and new production, mine locations, and the market.
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Bryan Pavlik, ICA Director
Mr. Pavlik has been involved in many areas of the colored gemstone industry, including mining, buying of rough, gem cutting, dealing in loose colored stones and mineral specimens, jewelry, gemological laboratory work, appraisals for the Austrian Government, and liquidations.  During his interviews, Mr. Pavlik discusses the liquidation business, the global gem market, current market fever, and global gem shows.
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Stephan Reif, Sales Executive, the Green Dragon Mine
Mr. Reif has intimate knowledge of the Green Dragon demantoid garnet mine in Namibia. In these extensive interviews, Mr. Reif provides a wealth of information regarding the mine’s geology and production, along with government mining regulations and water requirements. Mr. Reif also discusses, in detail, the cutting of demantoid garnet, quality evaluation, and the market.
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Joshua Saltzman, Nomad’s Lapidary Company
Mr. Saltzman is involved with buying rough colored gemstones from around the world, and cutting and selling finished colored gemstones globally. His company focuses on precision cutting of a wide variety of colored stones at the higher end of the market. In his interviews, Mr. Saltzman discusses the company’s cutting philosophy, market update, spinel sources and production, Afghan tourmaline, the rubellite tourmaline market, and working with untreated stones.
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Menahem Sevdermish, CEO and President GemeWizard
Mr. Sevdermish is one of the leading Israeli colored gemstone dealers, cutters, and experts. He has been buying, cutting, and selling colored gemstones for decades and has focused on unique stones with exciting colors. He is also the inventor of GemeWizard, a computer software program for grading colored gemstones, as well as a provider of pricing information and an internet trading platform. In his interviews Mr. Sevdermish discusses natural-color gemstones, Tanzanian gemstones, Tanzanian production, and unique tanzanite colors.
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Bill Vance, Vance Gems
Mr. Vance has been involved with buying, cutting, and selling colored gemstones for decades. He received his Graduate Gemology Diploma in 1983. In his interviews, Mr. Vance discusses the reason for the current price increases in gemstones, availability of gemstones in the market, gem cutting, building credibility in the trade, and advice to young gemologists.
Learn More @chapter:33 @chapter:2 @chapter:33


# Publication Year: 2008
# Title: Coated Tanzanite
# Abstract: Examination of 23 tanzanites coated by an apparently new technique revealed that the smaller stones (4–5 mm) could be identified as coated based on a combination of the unusually intense color and microscopic examination, which revealed surface iridescence as well as wear on facet junctions (small areas where the coating was abraded away). The two larger (3+ ct) stones did not show iridescence or wear, only small clues with high magnification, and therefore were much more difficult to identify. EDXRF and LA-ICP-MS analyses showed the presence of Co, Zn, Sn, and Pb in the coating. @chapter:7 @chapter:0 @chapter:7


# Publication Year: 2016
# Title: Etch Marks, Negative Crystals, and Etch Tubes in Spinel from Madagascar
# Abstract: Figure 1. The multitude of negative crystals and growth tubes in the 2.18 ct spinel pebble are exposed under fiber-optic light. Photo by Victoria Raynaud; field of view 13.11 mm.

	During a recent study of blue sapphires from the Ilakaka region in Madagascar, the authors discovered a stone with an unusual appearance. Mixed in a parcel of blue sapphires purchased from Malagasy sapphire miner Nirina Rakotosaona was a 2.18 ct blue pebble (figure 1). RI (1.718) and SG (3.62) measurements identified it as a spinel. Mr. Rakotosaona had mined these stones near Antsoa village, along the Taheza River. Magnification revealed numerous triangular etch marks on the surface, which is not uncommon for spinel (Summer 2004 Lab Notes, p. 168). The frosted surface of the stone made it difficult to study its internal features, so we polished a window in order to observe them.

	What we found was a spectacular internal world, with several well-developed negative crystals associated with etch tubes (figure 2). These etch features were characterized by a narrowing of the tubes toward the center of the crystal, indicating that they were produced by dissolution of spinel after the crystal had formed. This preferential dissolution was located at weaker structural zones in the spinel, which might be related to the presence of the negative crystals.

Figure 2. Negative crystals with stubby etching and very long etch tubes within the spinel. The triangular etch marks are visible in the background. The image was taken using a combination of brightfield and fiber-optic lighting. Photomicrograph by Victoria Raynaud; field of view 2.67 mm.

	While all the negative crystals were aligned and had the overall classic octahedral form for spinel, they also showed modifications such as twinning and short stubby etching (figure 3). The etch tubes radiated outward from these negative inclusions or passed through them. Etch tubes are well known in sapphires from Madagascar, but this stone shows they can also be found in blue spinels from the island. It was this etching that made for one of the most interesting inclusion scenes the authors have encountered.

Figure 3. Octagonal negative crystals associated with slender etch tubes, seen under a fiber-optic light. Photomicrograph by Victoria Raynaud; field of view 1.44 mm. @chapter:26 @chapter:0 @chapter:26


# Publication Year: -
# Title: GIA Hosts Alumni Events, Displays at Tucson 2017 Gem Shows
# Abstract: Alumni from around the world joined the 2017 “Party at the GIA Gem Mine: Cosmic Blast.” Most, including Peter Gruhl and Vicki Martinez, stopped at the photo booth before entering the party. Photo by GIA

	An out-of-this world photo experience, starship-like entryway and starry lights set the stage for the 2017 “Party at the GIA Gem Mine: Cosmic Blast,” but the pure joy and comaraderie as alumni greeted one another was the highlight of the annual dinner-dance and auctions. More than 350 guests from 15 countries (the U.S., Brazil, Canada, Columbia, China, Japan, Germany, Myanmar, Malta, Italy, South Africa, England, Thailand, India and more) attended the most fun party in Tucson.

	The event is an opportunity to connect with former classmates, meet new industry friends and perhaps establish a new business relationship.

	This year, it was also an opportunity to celebrate the 35th anniversary of the GIA Alumni Association that Richard T. Liddicoat and Robert Earnest established in 1982. Liddicoat and Earnest recognized the benefit of organizing GIA graduates around the world to encourage and promote the shared interests, education, news and business networks that support integrity and knowledge in the gem and jewelry industry. Today, the organization is more than 116,000 members strong with 70 chapters around the world.

Shauna and Starla Turner show off − Vanna White-style − items during the live auction so the audience can see them up close. Shauna, left, is holding a signed copy of the new GIA "Micro-Features of Emerald" wall chart from the Winter 2106 issue of G&G. Signed by GIA authors: Nathan Renfro, John Koivula, Jonathan Muya, Shane McClure, Kevin Schumacher and Dr. James Shigley. Starla is carrying a GIA PresentationScope. Photo by GIA

	Beyond catching up with old friends, this alumni event is an opportunity to support the Alumni Endowment Fund. This year’s event raised more than $25,000 from event tickets and the auctions. Seventy items (including loose gemstones and pearls, designer jewelry, mineral specimens, equipment, books and more) were available to bid on. Joseph DuMouchelle and Lindy Adducci, of DuMouchelle Auctions, volunteered their professional services – for the 16th year – to run the exciting live auction.

	“A special thank you to all our auction contributors, supporters, event volunteers and attendees,” said Kate Donovan, GIA manager of global alumni relations. “We look forward to seeing you all next year − and we’re already accepting auction donations!”

View Gallery

	Alumni Leadership Breakfast

	GIA Alumni Association chapter leaders and senior GIA executives also gathered in Tucson for a leadership forum to discuss chapter ideas, challenges, policy and plans. This annual event makes it possible for attendees to share and coordinate ideas and enhance relationships between chapters for the overall benefit of the alumni association.

	More than 30 alumni leaders from 22 chapters (the U.S., Canada and Germany) attended along with GIA executives Susan Jacques, president and CEO; Bev Hori, senior vice president of education and chief learning officer; Susan Schindelar, vice president of global marketing; Stephen Morisseau, director of corporate communications; and Danae Brooker, director of branding.

	Kate Donovan kicked off the discussion by sharing the variety of GIA materials and programs available to alumni chapter leaders to share at meetings, including the GemKids website, Retailer Support Program, Continuing Education Recognition Program and scholarship information.

	Starla Turner, a longtime alumni leadership council member and past-president of CA – Golden Gate chapter, kicked off a chapter-to-chapter peer discussion that included tips on the best ways to run chapter events, find meeting topic ideas and engage more alumni with local chapters.

Show attendees were able to learn more about synthetic diamonds in an exhibit that displayed them side-by-side with natural diamonds. Photo by Amanda Luke/GIA

	GIA Displays

	The GIA museum and the Richard T. Liddicoat Library and Information Center had exhibits during the gem shows.

Synthetic Diamonds at AGTA

	Synthetic diamonds grown by the HPHT and CVD methods have become more prevalent in the jewelry trade. The Institute – which can identify all known types of synthetic diamonds – displayed a variety of samples including large colorless and colored rough HPHT, large colorless and colored faceted HPHT, rough CVD, faceted CVD, rough HPHT melee, and faceted HPHT melee diamonds side-by-side with natural diamonds at its booth on the Galleria level.

The Fersman Catalog at TGMS

	The GIA library’s copy of Russia’s Treasure of Diamonds and Precious Stones by A.E. Fersman is one of the few surviving examples of a Bolshevik-era catalog of royal jewels seized during the Russian Revolution. The library featured a special display at TGMS dedicated to the catalog, including an historical figure of Catherine the Great by George Stuart (on loan from the Ventura County Museum of Art) and replicas of notable diamonds, the Orlov and the Shah.

Turquoise measuring 39.5 x 24 x 10 cm is part of the GIA museum exhibit “Highlights of the Hauser Collection.” Photo by Orasa Weldon/© GIA

Highlights of the Hauser Collection at TGMS

	GIA’s museum recently acquired a collection of ornamental minerals of exceptional size and quality, made possible through a generous donation by the family of Joel and Barbara Hauser. Many of the pieces are from localities with restricted access or that are no longer producing. Attendees of TGMS had the opportunity to view 13 of the finest pieces from the Hauser collection as part of a special exhibit. @chapter:47 @chapter:3 @chapter:47


# Publication Year: -
# Title: How Do I Know if the Fancy Melee in My Jewelry is Natural Diamond?
# Abstract: Melee diamonds are like the bridesmaids to the bride, the chorus line to a Broadway show or a side dish to a holiday meal. They are there to draw attention to the star of the show, adding intrigue and interest — but never detracting from the main event.

Melee diamonds, which weigh less than 0.2 carats, are inexpensive compared to larger stones, so they can be generously used as dazzling accents in jewelry and watches. Their brightness and scintillation enhance the center stone in a halo-style ring or create intricate patterns in a pave-set design. Often cut as round shapes, they are also available in fancy shapes, such as emerald, princess, radiant and marquise.

The challenge for the jewelry trade: it is quicker and cheaper to grow small diamond crystals, so melee-size laboratory-grown and simulated diamonds are abundant in the market. Given their small size and the large number of loose stones in a parcel, laboratory-grown and treated or simulant melee diamonds can be mixed in with natural diamonds — and missed.

GIA addressed this challenge in 2016 with a melee analysis service for round diamonds, the most common shape of melee, an automated system that analyzes and sorts melee-sized diamonds quickly and accurately. The goal of the automated process is to minimize the percentage of natural diamonds that will be referred for further testing.

“The best instrument will pass 100 percent of natural diamonds, with 100 percent laboratory-grown and simulants referred for further testing,” said Tom Moses, executive vice president and chief laboratory and research officer. “No single instrument in the world, however, can pass 100 percent of natural diamonds, because there is always a small percentage of natural diamonds that show similar features to man-made or treated stones.”

Fancy melee diamond screening device. Photo: Mitchell Lyn
Millions and millions of small round diamonds have been analyzed since then, but there has also been a need to screen fancy-shaped melee, according to Moses.

“The watch industry, for example, uses many fancy shaped diamonds and wants to use high-quality natural melee diamonds. They often depend on the suppliers to guarantee that their fancy shape melee is natural and not man-made,” Moses said. To meet the needs of their customers, many diamond suppliers want to get their fancy shape melee screened by GIA.

GIA scientists working on the issue of fancy shape melee screening developed a set of operating principles and laser technology they believe address this complex task. The team of scientists, along with engineers from GIA’s instruments group, worked together to create a prototype. After testing, software and mechanical engineers helped to develop a fully automatic system for large-scale screening of fancy shape melee diamonds.

The process to develop the technology and build the new system took about three years, but the team is pleased with the results, Moses said. Compared with the previous instrument for diamond melee, this new one refers fewer natural diamonds for further testing.

“With this new instrument, we can analyze every shape of melee,” Moses said. “The new machine uses new principles and analysis techniques to detect laboratory-grown and simulant melee from natural diamonds — and can do it much more efficiently and accurately than ever before.”

Metrology Technician Nicole Phelan operates a fancy melee diamond screening device. Photo: Mitchell Lyn
The new GIA Analysis Service for fancy shapes was announced in August 2020 and is offered at most GIA labs. Click here for more details.
Benefits For Suppliers and Retailers
The ability to sort natural melee from man-made, treated or simulated stones, has the potential to offer new opportunities for suppliers.
“We will discuss this with our niche and elite customers. Only they would prefer something like this as it will be a value addition to their product,” said Premal Chokshi, general manager of sales for Rosy Blue in Mumbai. “Regular diamond manufacturers, traders and diamond jewelers will not pay for getting their [melee] stones certified; it’s only the niche customers we want to target.”

Melee screening also gives retailers the ability to assure their clients that all of the melee in any piece of jewelry or watch is 100 percent natural diamond.

“For the clients, they will be able to give consumers the confidence that the goods coming to them have already been screened and tested by the biggest lab in the world — GIA,” said Rajesh Lakhani, director of Kiran Gems in Mumbai. “The trust and faith relationship is 100 percent there and people are attracted to that — especially consumers.” @chapter:41 @chapter:1 @chapter:41


# Publication Year: -
# Title: ‘Dreams of Diamonds’ Book, Exhibit Celebrate Spectacular Gems
# Abstract: The GIA museum’s “Dreams of Diamonds” exhibit featured more than 4,000 carats of diamonds, and marked the U.S. debut of Alastair Laidlaw and Christine Marsden’s like-named book – a 160-page, 33-lb. tome. Photo by Kevin Schumacher/GIA

The GIA museum’s glittering “Dreams of Diamonds” exhibit drew a record-breaking number of guests to the Institute’s Carlsbad campus for two weeks in May 2015, with more than 1,000 members of the public, trade and press attending the once-in-a-lifetime display.

The exhibit, which featured more than 4,000 carats of diamonds, celebrated the mystique of a gemstone that continues to fascinate gemologists and inspire designers and artists around the world. It also marked the U.S. debut of “Dreams of Diamonds,” a 160-page tome that, at 33 pounds and approximately three feet wide when open, is the largest book ever published on the subject.

“The creators of ‘Dreams of Diamonds’ were able to capture extraordinary diamond pieces in enchanting, ethereal settings,” says GIA Museum Curator Terri Ottaway, adding that the book and exhibit were “an ode to the wondrous world of diamonds.”

GIA Senior Vice President and Chief Marketing Officer Kathryn Kimmel, left, with “Dreams of Diamonds” photographers Christine Marsden and Alastair Laidlaw, and GIA President and CEO Susan Jacques at the exhibit’s opening event .
The team behind the book, British photographers Alastair Laidlaw and Christine Marsden, showcase images of loose diamonds and diamond jewelry in fantastic, dreamy settings. The diamonds – many of which were graded by the GIA laboratory – and jewelry in the book represent the work of a dozen of the most venerated designers and diamond houses in the world.

Ottaway, along with McKenzie Santimer, manager of museum exhibits, showcased the oversized book in the Carlsbad campus rotunda, filling the surrounding display cases with 25 spectacular pieces of diamond jewelry. Seven of the book’s international contributors, including Adler, Chatila, Chow Tai Fook, Diacore, Diarough, Mouawad and MUNNU The Gem Palace, loaned their jewelry pieces for the exhibit.

The displays ranged from simple to intricate, including an exceptional 50-carat D flawless diamond on a rotating base and a stunning sautoir made from 1,400 carats of diamond crystals and polished gems.

View Gallery

“It was the highest-value exhibition we’ve ever had, and it was overwhelming in popularity,” says Santimer, who said that visitors from the public and gem and jewelry trade came from all over Southern California. The exhibit, which opened with an invitation-only gala on April 29, even generated buzz on campus, where staff and students are accustomed to walking past beautiful displays of gems and jewelry every day.

“The students were floored,” Santimer said. “It’s pretty surreal to experience such a unique exhibit dedicated to diamonds while you’re studying at GIA, the creators of the 4Cs. It was a wonderful mix of diamonds, from 300-year-old diamond jewelry from the Mughal period to innovative, present-day cuts and tiaras. There were gold boots encrusted with more than 38,000 diamonds and fabulous colored diamonds, including a 54-carat Fancy Intense yellow diamond.”

GIA’s Visual Resources Digitization Assistant Emily Lane displaying “Dreams of Diamonds,” which is approximately three feet wide when open. Dona Dirlam, director of the library, said the book has already become a tour and student favorite because the oversized photos are making it possible “to see a level of detail and craftsmanship that is rare.”
Though the exhibition had a short run, GIA visitors will still be able to enjoy the heart of the exhibit in the Richard T. Liddicoat Gemological Library and Information Center. Laidlaw and Marsden donated two copies of the book, valued at $10,000 each, to the library’s collection. One copy is housed in the library’s Cartier Rare Book Repository and Archive; the other is available by appointment for public reference and viewing.

“We are so grateful to Alastair and Christine, who took six years to create this remarkable work of art,” says Library Director Dona Dirlam. “The book has already become a favorite highlight of the tour for our visitors, and the oversized photos are making it possible for GIA students to see a level of detail and craftsmanship that is rare. ‘Dreams of Diamonds’ is truly a special, valued addition to our collection.” @chapter:28 @chapter:2 @chapter:28


# Publication Year: 2015
# Title: Books: Maker & Muse: Women and Early Twentieth Century Art Jewelry
# Abstract: By Elyse Zorn Karlin, Ed., hardcover, 256 pp., publ. by Monacelli Press, New York, 2015, US$50.00.

Maker & Muse: Women and Early Twentieth Century Art Jewelry is a collaborative effort undertaken to accompany the current exhibit of the same name at the Richard H. Driehaus Museum in Chicago. Its 256 pages celebrate the role of women as creator of and inspiration for important jewelry from the turn of the 19th century. It showcases the history of women as jewelry designers, as muses portrayed on the jeweler’s canvas, and as wearers of the art during the Arts and Crafts and Art Nouveau movements.

	This beautifully illustrated book contains seven well-organized chapters full of insight on the period, covering the British, German, Austrian, and American Arts and Crafts movements from 1890 to 1910 and the French and American Art Nouveau movements from 1900 to 1915. Museum founder Richard H. Driehaus, who owns the majority of the pieces on display, wrote the preface. While collecting decorative arts 15 years ago, he was drawn to a piece of Arts and Crafts jewelry in London. His collection blossomed from there to include Art Nouveau jewelry.

	The first two chapters are by the book’s editor and the curator of the exhibit, Elyse Zorn Karlin. Her first chapter is an overview of the women and their jewelry in the early 20th century. Karlin follows with the British Arts and Crafts Movement, which advocated economic and social reform, which is essentially anti-industrial. As a result, there was a greater emphasis on the finished piece art rather than materials.

	The next four chapters are essays by the expert curators who had a hand in the other four exhibition rooms at the Driehaus. Each chapter is embellished with remarkable photos of pertinent jewelry and their makers and muse. “Metamorphosis: The Female Figure in Art Nouveau” is written by Yvonne J. Markowitz, curator emerita of the Museum of Fine Art in Boston, and Emily Banis Stoehrer, curator of jewelry at the same museum. They explain that Art Nouveau jewelry, designed by men (most notably Rene Lalique) and worn by women, is the French high-end answer to the Arts and Crafts movement. The jewels are about natural forms and structures, flowers, plants, and curved lines.  Jeannine Falino, an independent curator for the Museum of Art and Design in New York, writes the next chapter on the American art of Louis Comfort Tiffany, whose design staff included Julia Munson and Meta Overbeck. These women held the jewelry to the highest standards of artistry and quality. Tiffany branded his products, and the executors became mostly anonymous.

	Janis Staggs, author and curator of Neue Galerie in New York, documents the Arts and Crafts movement in Germany and Austria, known as Jugendstil or “youth style,” which brought about a shift in women’s social status as workers, patrons, suffragettes, athletes, artists, and muses.   Well-known designers Josef Hoffman and Karl Rothmuller, along with artist Gustav Klimt, are contributors to this period. Sharon S. Darling, author of Chicago Metalsmiths: An Illustrated History, writes about the Chicago Arts and Crafts movement, where a large number of women worked as professional and amateur jewelers. Of particular note is the hand-wrought Kalo silver workshop, which was founded by six women graduates of the Art Institute of Chicago in 1900.

	The photography, principally by John A. Faier, the editing, and the quality of the paper and printing are superb. This book will find its way into the libraries of scholars, collectors, and professionals interested in the Arts and Crafts and Art Nouveau movements, which still influence jewelry artists more than a century later. @chapter:20 @chapter:2 @chapter:20


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Plan a Path to Success
# Abstract: Kara Erickson, sales manager for Tiffany & Co. in Pasadena, California, at GIA's 2009 Jewelry Career Fair in Carlsbad. Photo by Kevin Schumacher/GIA

                      “Success means something different for everyone,” said Kara Erickson, a 1993 GIA graduate and sales manager for Tiffany & Co. in Pasadena, California, who credits most of her success to her education and many industry mentors. “Recently I’ve realized that success is not status or a title, but a series of choices, hard work and achievements. You can sit around and desire success all day or you can actually do something about it.”

She shared five key concepts she used to build her career with attendees of the 2009 Career Fair in Carlsbad:

1. Create your vision. “Have a vision of your career and what you want to do and what you want to be. You’ll get lost without a map.”

2. Stay focused. You may find yourself on a winding career path, but take advantage of those curves. This path “may lead you to various forks in the road, but it is up to you to make them into opportunities.”

3. Take action. “If you say you are going to do something, do it, follow through. Actions speak louder than words.”

4. Be prepared to make sacrifices. Find ways to overcome obstacles. “Prove to yourself and others that you are ready, willing and able to grow in your career.”

5. Get support. The jewelry industry is a very close-knit community. “The people who make up the industry were once in your shoes.”

Erickson also offered encouragement to the attendees. “Employers are looking for people like you. Not just because you are educated in gems and jewelry, but because you can reinvent the jewelry industry. Everything is at your fingertips. You have already made the choice to be successful and you are in charge of your career.” @chapter:45 @chapter:3 @chapter:45


# Publication Year: 1984
# Title: Gem Pegmatites of Minas Gerais, Brazil: Exploration, Occurrence, and Aquamarine Deposits
# Abstract: The northeastern portion of the state of Minas Gerais, Brazil, contains the world's greatest concentration of complex granitic pegmatites, which are especially noted for the production of gem beryl, chrysoberyl, topaz, tourmaline, and kunzite. Pegmatite gemstones were first found in this region over 400 years ago; in the last 100 years, Brazil has supplied most of the world market for these five gemstones. As the first of a series of articles on this region and these gem materials, this article reviews the early exploration for gemstones, their occurrence, and the mining methods and miners responsible for the development of the deposits. Focus is then given to some of the major deposits of aquamarine and other beryls, especially in the Teofilo Otoni-Marambaia and Jequitinhonha River valley districts. @chapter:14 @chapter:0 @chapter:14


# Publication Year: 2019
# Title: Trapiche-Like Ruby from the Batakundi Mine, Kashmir
# Abstract: Each leg of the trapiche-like structure in this ruby from the Batakundi mine in Kashmir is aligned perpendicular to hexagonal growth. The center of the star consists of a hexagonal group of colorless feldspar crystals and black graphite platelets. Black rutile crystals with associated comet tails are seen near the core of the trapiche-like pattern. Photomicrograph by Patcharee Wongrawang; field of view 4.80 mm.

Recently, the author examined a 5.26 ct faceted transparent oval ruby that showed a well-formed fixed six-rayed pattern under the table of the stone. Chemical analysis and gemological observation of internal features determined the origin of this stone to be the Batakundi mining area of Kashmir.
The six rays were oriented perpendicular to the sides of the hexagonal growth structure (see above). Each arm consisted of numerous minute particles mixed with needle-like inclusions and small thin films. The center of the star contained a group of colorless and black mineral inclusions that were identified by Raman spectroscopy as feldspar and graphite. Near the core, two black crystals with high luster were identified by Raman spectroscopy as rutile. They were also associated with a string of fine particles spreading out to form a comet tail pattern.
The pattern of this ruby from the Batakundi mine resembles that of a trapiche-type sapphire from Tasmania (Winter 2016 GNI, pp. 430–431). Trapiche-like minerals are quite different from true trapiche rubies, which have six arms that run from a core to the six corners of the hexagonal growth structure and show clear boundaries of six crystallographic sectors. The most renowned of the true trapiche ruby can be found in certain areas such as Mong Hsu, Myanmar (G. Giuliani and I. Pignatelli, “‘Trapiche’ vs ‘trapiche-like’ textures in minerals,” InColor, Vol. 31, 2016, pp. 45–46).
Although trapiche-like corundum specimens are not unheard of, it is unusual to find them well developed in high-quality ruby. This trapiche-like ruby from the Batakundi area shows a beautiful inclusion scene of a fixed six-rayed star standing out against the pleasing bodycolor and transparency. @chapter:13 @chapter:0 @chapter:13


# Publication Year: 2014
# Title: Red Beryl – Tucson 2014
# Abstract: Figure 1. This matched suite contains 27.35 carats of faceted oval red beryls. Photo by Eric Welch; courtesy of Equatorian Imports.

              At the AGTA show, Ray Zajicek (Equatorian Imports Inc., Dallas) displayed matched red beryls—originally mined from Utah’s Wah Wah Mountains—as suites of jewelry and in loose stone form. According to Zajicek, these gems represent newly marketed inventory cut by Colombian cutters in Gibraltar between 1998 and 2000. Each suite contained 25–30 carats of matched red beryls as emerald, marquise, or oval cuts (figure 1).

Zajicek, who began working with red beryl in the 1980s, said the average faceted gem is approximately 0.08 ct. A 0.50 ct sample would be large, and anything above a carat would be exceptionally rare. This made the matched suites at his booth unique and potentially irreplaceable. Like emerald, red beryl has a range of hues and tones, as well as a typically uneven color distribution that makes it a challenge to match.

Zajicek said there is more red beryl in the ground, but the difficulty of mining makes future production cost-prohibitive. Previous operations had to move more than a ton of hard rock to recover a carat of rough. A carat-sized rough stone is not necessarily cuttable; yields are low, averaging between 8% and 15%.

	Figure 2. Here, red beryls are mounted with benitoite from California in a pendant (left), and with 28.59 carats of unheated Yogo sapphire from Montana in a spectacular necklace (right). Photos by Eric Welch (left) and Robert Weldon (right); courtesy of Equatorian Imports.
Zajicek described red beryl as a beautiful, uniquely American product that is still relatively unknown. Intriguing combinations included a pendant comprised of red beryl mounted with benitoite (figure 2, left), and a red, white, and blue necklace featuring red beryl, Montana blue sapphires, and colorless diamond (figure 2, right).

If there were more viable red beryl mining locations in Utah, the increased production would boost demand and allow greater promotion. As it stands, few would spend money to promote a gem they probably would not be able to obtain in any quantity. @chapter:17 @chapter:0 @chapter:17


# Publication Year: 1989
# Title: Fall 1989 G&G Book Reviews
# Abstract: “Jewelry on Display, 3rd Edition”
By MariAnn Coutchie, 107 pp., illus., publ. by ST Publications, Cincinnati, OH, 1989. US$23.95

“World Map of Gemstone Deposits”
By Dr. Edward Gübelin, publ. by the Swiss Gemmological Society, Lucerne, Switzerland, 1988. US$24.00 (paper), US$59.95 (laminated)

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:17 @chapter:0 @chapter:17


# Publication Year: 2002
# Title: Update on the Identification of Treated “Golden” South Sea Cultured Pearls
# Abstract: Most of the “golden” South Sea cultured pearls in a single strand were found to exhibit unusual brownish orange fluorescence to long-wave UV radiation and atypical absorption features at 405 nm and 558 nm. On the basis of these features and visual examination, 33 of the 35 cultured pearls were identified as color treated. This study demonstrates how atypical absorption features, particularly in the blue region of the spectrum, can be used to positively identify color treatment, even in the presence of the 330–385 nm UV absorption feature characteristic of natural-color “golden” pearls from the Pinctada maxima mollusk. @chapter:11 @chapter:4 @chapter:11