# Publication Year: 2023
# Title: Patchy Yellow Trigon
# Abstract: Trigons creating the impression of a thin and patchy “yellow skin” on a 0.98 ct rough diamond. Photomicrograph by Nicole Ahline; field of view 2.34 mm.
Occasionally, diamonds show irregularity in their color related to heterogeneous distribution of atomic-level defects. “Yellow-skin” diamonds are evidence of this. Seen in the figure above is the rough surface of a 0.98 ct diamond that shows a trigon with patchy yellow coloration. The yellow color is caused by isolated nitrogen that is confined to the outer surface of the rough stone, making it look like the rough diamond has a “yellow skin.”
Yellow diamonds colored by isolated nitrogen are known to have uniform to patchy or irregular color zoning (more information on naturally colored yellow and orange diamonds can be found in C.M. Breeding et al., “Naturally colored yellow and orange gem diamonds: The nitrogen factor,” Summer 2020 G&G, pp. 194–219). The color zoning (or lack of) correlates with the distribution of the nitrogen in the diamond’s crystal lattice as it grows. It is theorized that the “yellow skin” is from a subsequent growth event, making it younger than the colorless diamond it surrounds. @chapter:29 @chapter:1 @chapter:29


# Publication Year: 1987
# Title: The History and Gemology of Queen Conch "Pearls"
# Abstract: Conch "pearls" are calcareous concretions produced by the Queen conch mollusk, Strombus gigas, which is found in various areas of the Caribbean. Although conch"pearls" occur in a range of colors, the pink are usually the most desirable. "Pearls" over 10 ct are rare, but they have been observed as large as 45 ct. They sometimes exhibit a porcelain-like luster and an unusual characteristic called flame structure, which made pink conch "pearls" quite popular in jewelry at the turn of the last century. This article reviews the history of the conch "pearl," discusses S. gigas and its fisheries, and examines the gemological properties and other characteristics of this attractive material. @chapter:11 @chapter:4 @chapter:11


# Publication Year: 2015
# Title: Parisite in Colombian Quartz
# Abstract: These three crystals captured in Colombian rock crystal quartz host three crystal morphologies of the rare mineral parisite: bipyramidal, hexagonal tabular prism, and pyramidal forms. Photomicrograph by Jonathan Muyal; field of view 4.79 mm.

	The brownish rare earth carbonate parisite is known as an unusual Colombian mineral specimen, and as a diagnostic inclusion indicative of Colombian origin when observed in emeralds (E.J. Gübelin and J.I. Koivula, Photoatlas of Inclusions in Gems, Vol. 1, ABC Edition, Zurich, 1986, p. 252). This rare mineral has also been reported to occur in quartz from Muzo, Colombia (E.J. Gübelin and J.I. Koivula, Photoatlas of Inclusions in Gemstones, Vol. 2, Opinio Verlag, Basel, Switzerland, 2005, p. 621).

	A particularly striking example of rock crystal quartz with numerous brown crystals of parisite was recently examined at GIA’s Carlsbad laboratory, where the inclusions’ identity was confirmed by Raman analysis. Interestingly, three of the most prominent parisite inclusions in this rock crystal quartz displayed multiple crystal habits: a well-formed bipyramid, a tabular hexagonal prism, and a pyramidal form. Due to their euhedral nature, these inclusions are presumed have formed simultaneously with their host quartz and are therefore termed syngenetic. Also present in the stone were numerous fluid inclusions and an iridescent interface on the bipyramidal crystal.

	This is the finest example of parisite as an inclusion in quartz that has been documented by GIA. @chapter:15 @chapter:0 @chapter:15


# Publication Year: 2008
# Title: Spring 2008 G&G Book Reviews
# Abstract: “Rings: Jewelry of Power, Love and Loyalty”
By Diana Scarisbrick, 384 pp., illus., publ. by Thames & Hudson Ltd. [www.thamesandhudsonusa.com], London, 2007. US$50.00

“The Emerald Book”
By Yogi Durlabhji, Shyamala Fernandes, and Ruchi Durlabhji, Eds., 143 pp., illus., publ. on behalf of the Jaipur Jewellery Show [info@jaipurjewelleryshow.org], Jaipur, India, 2007. Free

“Jewelry Savvy: What Every Jewelry Wearer Should Know”
By Cynthia A. Sliwa and Caroline Stanley, 224 pp., illus., publ. by Jewels on Jewels, Los Angeles, [www.jewelrysavvybook.com], 2007. US$19.99

“In Gold We Trust: Social Capital and Economic Change in the Italian Jewelry Towns”
By Dario Gaggio, 352 pp., publ. by Princeton University Press [www.press.princeton.edu], Princeton, NJ, 2007. US$39.50

“Safety Solutions”
63 pp., illus. with DVD, publ. by MJSA Press [www.mjsa.org/info_press.php], Providence, RI, 2007. $49.95 ($29.95 for DVD alone)

“Diamonds Are Waiting for You”
By James R. Holland, 63 pp., illus., publ. by A Bit of Boston Books [www.bitofboston.com], Boston, MA, 2007, $12.00

“Late Antique and Early Christian Gems”
By Jeffery Spier, 221 pp. with 154 black-and-white plates, publ. by Reichert Verlag, Wiesbaden, Germany, 2007, $297.00

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:25 @chapter:2 @chapter:25


# Publication Year: 2019
# Title: Tourmaline Inclusion in Russian Alexandrite
# Abstract: The longest inclusion in this photomicrograph of a Russian alexandrite was conclusively identified as tourmaline. This tourmaline inclusion exhibits a well-formed prismatic/rod-like crystal shape. Darkfield illumination. Photomicrograph by Jonathan Muyal; field of view 1.44 mm.

Alexandrite is the color-change variety of the mineral chrysoberyl. The most coveted alexandrite exhibits a luscious green to greenish blue color in daylight and a warm raspberry red in incandescent light. This phenomenal color change is caused by the presence of trace Cr3+ substituting for Al3+ in the chrysoberyl crystal structure. Alexandrite was originally found in the Ural Mountains of Russia in the early nineteenth century and was named in honor of Czar Alexander II.
GIA recently examined several Russian alexandrite rough specimens. These were reportedly from the Tokovaya mining area in the Ural Mountains, located a few kilometers away from the city of Yekaterinburg. Closer microscopic examination revealed a brown, transparent, well-formed prismatic crystal inclusion with triangular termination, indicating it might belong to the trigonal crystal system (see above).
The inclusion proved to be doubly refractive when viewed between crossed polarizers. Raman microspectrometry analysis conclusively identified the inclusion as tourmaline. In order to validate the Raman results and further identify the tourmaline species, laser ablation–inductively coupled plasma–mass spectrometry (LA-ICP-MS) was used to obtain the chemistry of the inclusion (Z. Sun et al., “A new method for determining gem tourmaline species by LA-ICP-MS,” Spring 2019 G&G, pp. 2–17). It was classified as dravite, a sodium- and magnesium-rich tourmaline species. The trace element chemistry of the host alexandrite matched well with GIA’s Russian alexandrite chemistry reference data.
Inclusions in alexandrite from various localities have been reported (E.J. Gübelin and J.I. Koivula, Photoatlas of Inclusions in Gemstones, Vol. 1, ABC Edition, Zurich, 1986, pp. 265–267; Vol. 3, Opinio Publishers, Basel, Switzerland, 2008, pp. 372–405). However, tourmaline in an alexandrite host is rare.
Alexandrite is traditionally popular for its beautiful color-change phenomenon rather than its inclusion scenes. The fine tourmaline crystal inclusion in this Russian alexandrite makes it an unusual collector’s gem specimen. @chapter:8 @chapter:0 @chapter:8


# Publication Year: 2023
# Title: Pinctada radiata Atypical Bead Cultured Pearls from the UAE
# Abstract: Figure 1. Two atypical bead cultured pearls recovered from Pinctada radiata mollusks from Abdulla Al Suwaidi’s farm in the UAE. Pearl A (left) weighs 0.87 ct, and pearl B (right) weighs 0.94 ct. Photo by Gaurav Bera.
Pearling is embedded in the culture and traditions of everyday life in the United Arab Emirates (UAE), especially in the trading center of Julfar. Abdulla Al Suwaidi, grandson of one of the last traditional pearl divers in the UAE, took on the challenge of reviving the country’s pearling industry. He succeeded in establishing the Suwaidi Pearl Farm in Al Rams, Ras Al Khaimah (RAK), in 2005. Suwaidi’s cultured pearl farm is recognized as the first of its kind in the Arabian (Persian) Gulf region.
GIA’s Mumbai laboratory recently examined a quantity of cultured pearls obtained from the farm. The parcel contained variously shaped white to cream-colored pearls. Examination by real-time microradiography (RTX) showed a variety of different internal structures including bead and non-bead cultured pearls, but two pearls in particular (figure 1) revealed very interesting structures and were confirmed to be samples from atypical “bead” culturing experiments conducted by the farm. Pearl A was light cream and near-round, weighing 0.87 ct and measuring 5.13 × 4.93 mm, while pearl B was cream and button shaped, weighing 0.94 ct and measuring 5.42 × 5.12 × 4.93 mm. When viewed under 40× magnification, both pearls exhibited a smooth surface and possessed typical nacreous overlapping aragonite platelets.

Figure 2. Top: RTX images in three directions of the non-bead cultured pearl used as a “bead” with a distinct demarcation and an organic tail-like feature in pearl A. Bottom: μ-CT scans of pearl A. The tail feature is indicated by a yellow arrow.

Figure 3. Top: RTX images in three directions of a natural pearl used as a “bead” with a clear demarcation and an organic tail-like feature in pearl B. Bottom: μ-CT scans of pearl B. The tail feature is indicated by a yellow arrow.
Additional RTX and X-ray computed microtomography (μ-CT) analyses were conducted to further study the internal structures. RTX imaging of pearl A revealed a non-bead cultured pearl used as a “bead” nucleus (figure 2). A light gray core surrounded by organic-rich concentric growth structures followed by finer growth arcs was visible. An obvious demarcation with a small organic tail-like feature just below the surface overgrown with cultured nacre was also apparent. The lack of growth arcs in the nacreous layers was due to rapid growth during the culturing process (“Atypical ‘beading’ in the production of cultured pearls from Australian Pinctada maxima,” GIA Research News, February 13, 2017). Similarly, pearl B revealed a natural pearl used as a “bead” nucleus (figure 3), with a very small but clearly visible dark gray core surrounded by faint growth arcs. As with pearl A, a distinct demarcation with organic-rich areas and a small organic tail-like feature were evident just below the surface overgrown with cultured nacre. X-ray computed microtomography analysis of both samples revealed clearer images of the demarcation between the “bead” pearls used as nuclei and the cultured nacre overgrowths.
Optical X-ray fluorescence examination did not show any fluorescence in either sample. Energy-dispersive X-ray fluorescence spectrometry revealed manganese levels below detection limits and strontium levels of 1130 ppm for pearl A and 1446 ppm for pearl B. The results from both testing methods were consistent with a saltwater growth environment. The ultraviolet/visible reflectance spectra collected for both pearls showed features around 435 and 460 nm and an additional weak band at 495 nm. These features are similar to spectral observations previously recorded for natural Pinctada radiata pearls (A. Al-Alawi et al., “Saltwater cultured pearls from Pinctada radiata in Abu Dhabi (United Arab Emirates),” Journal of Gemmology, Vol. 37, No. 2, 2020, pp. 164–179). Raman analysis using 514 nm laser excitation was carried out on the surfaces of both pearls, and a doublet at 704/705 cm–1 as well as a peak at 1085 cm–1, indicative of aragonite, were observed. Weak polyenic pigment-related peaks at 1130 and 1540 cm–1 were only observed for pearl B and were associated with its cream coloration. The photoluminescence spectra were also consistent with the Raman results and displayed high fluorescence together with the aragonite peaks, typical of most nacreous pearls.
Using lower-quality pearls (both nacreous and non-nacreous), gemstones, and other materials as “bead” nuclei has been a known practice for the last decade (“Chasing cultured pearls at SSEF: Cultured pearls using a natural pearl as a bead,” 2020, https://www.ssef.ch/chasing-cultured-pearls-at-ssef-cultured-pearls-using-a-natural-pearl-as-a-bead/). Although not seen on a regular basis, atypical “bead” cultured pearls (aBCPs) are encountered in laboratories from time to time and can be very challenging to separate from some natural pearls. This would be especially true of the two samples featured in this report: If either of them were drilled and mixed in strands with natural Gulf pearls, an experienced gemologist would find it difficult to separate them from the other pearls. The authors have encountered natural pearls with similar distinct boundaries. It should also be noted that the aBCPs produced at the Suwaidi farm are the result of successful experiments, and they are not commercially available at the time of this writing. The farm continues to conduct various experiments and aims to restore the UAE’s place in the global market by producing the finest Pinctada radiata cultured pearls available. @chapter:11 @chapter:4 @chapter:11


# Publication Year: 1992
# Title: Sapphires from Changle in Shandong Province, China
# Abstract: Sapphires were recently found in alluvial deposits and in situ in basaltic rocks near Wutu, Changle County, in central Shandong Province. The fact that significant amounts of sapphire have been found in situ at Changle makes it unique among sapphire deposits in basaltic terrains around the world. (Sapphires have been found in situ elsewhere, but never in such abundance in basalt.) Changle sapphires occur in a range of colors (dark blue, blue, greenish blue, and yellow), but they are predominantly dark blue. Fe, Ga, Ti, Co, and V are the most abundant trace elements present. The gemological properties of Changle sapphires are consistent with those from similar alkalic basalt environments. @chapter:5 @chapter:0 @chapter:5


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Sapphires from the Gem Rush Bemainty area, Ambatondrazaka (Madagascar)
# Abstract: Sapphires of approximately 15 cts in size, reportedly from the gem rush near Ambatondrazaka, seen at KV Gems office in Bangkok in Dec 2016; stones courtesy KV Gems, Bangkok. Photo by Vincent Pardieu/GIA.

	New discoveries of fine quality blue sapphire sizes suitable for large fashioned gems are always welcomed by the gem trade. In the last decade and half, the island of Madagascar has emerged as a globally important source of gem quality corundum. However, the latest find of attractive large stones at Bemainty is problematic for the trade. Although it has produced more fine blue and padparadscha type sapphires than any other recent Malagasy deposit in just a few months, it is located deep inside a designated conservation area where mining is prohibited by the government.

	This report describes conditions at the mining sites, the mining methods used, and documents the gems seen at the mines and in local gem markets. It also provides a summary of the recent history of gem corundum mining in Madagascar along with regional and local geological context for the discovery.

	As a preliminary study, researchers from GIA’s Bangkok laboratory analyzed 38 representative Bemainty sapphire samples obtained from a reputable merchant in November 2016. They investigated gemological properties, inclusion scenes, spectroscopic features, and trace element chemical composition. Results from their study and field observations from the mining area appear in a new article titled “Sapphires from the gem rush Bemainty area, Ambatondrazaka (Madagascar).”

	This study indicates that the geographical origin of stones from this new locality will be challenging for gem labs to determine as the material ranges from geuda-type stones with low iron content similar to those from other Malagasy deposits and Sri Lanka, to gems with higher iron content resembling some blue sapphires from Myanmar or Tanzania.

	The new sapphire find at Bemainty is east of Ambatondrazaka and falls inside the Ankeniheny-Zahamena Corridor (CAZ), which was designated a protected area by the Malagasy government. As mining is prohibited within the CAZ, the arrival of thousands of people determined to mine challenges conservation efforts by the authorities. @chapter:51 @chapter:0 @chapter:51


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Seeing Green: All About Emeralds
# Abstract: Emeralds are formed when chromium, vanadium, and iron are present in the mineral beryl. The varying presence of these three elements gives emerald its range of color. Chromium and vanadium make an intense green color. Iron gives the stone a bluish tint. Courtesy of Bill Larson, Palagems.com.

                      Want to see into the future? Be an eloquent speaker? Defeat spells and enchantments?
Such is the lore of the emerald.

The first known emerald mines were in Egypt, dating from at least 330 B.C. into the 1700s. Cleopatra was known to have a passion for emerald, and used it in her royal adornments. 16th-century Conquistadors discovered South American mines hidden by the Incas. A ready and exceptional supply of emeralds was suddenly available, and Europeans fell in love with the bewitchingly beautiful gemstone.

Some 500 years later, emeralds are still enchanting us. Emerald is the birthstone for the month of May because its color symbolizes the rebirth and renewal that comes with spring. Pantone named it the Color of the Year for 2013 because of the “luxury and elegance (it brings) to the palette.”

Emeralds are formed when chromium, vanadium, and iron are present in the mineral beryl. The varying presence of these three elements gives emerald its range of color. Chromium and vanadium make an intense green color. Iron gives the stone a bluish tint.

The most valuable emeralds are bluish-green to green and have a medium to medium-dark tone. Since emeralds typically form in six-sided prisms, they are naturally suited for, and often shaped into, the emerald cut.

Most emeralds have inclusions (internal clarity characteristics) and blemishes (surface clarity characteristics) that can be seen with the unaided eye. The size and types of inclusions greatly affect price: from $10 per carat for a small low-quality stone, to $50,000 per carat for an exceptionally clean stone.

So how hot are emeralds? Harry Winston sold a pair of circular clip earrings with 6.91 ct. and 7.32 ct. round emeralds for a cool $218,000 in November 2012. Brooke Astor’s 22.74 ct. emerald engagement ring went for $1.2 million at a recent Sotheby’s auction. @chapter:16 @chapter:0 @chapter:16


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Lapis Lazuli Description
# Abstract: Lapis lazuli is an aggregate of several minerals. Lazurite grains provide its characteristic blue color, while golden flakes of pyrite can add attractive contrast.

                      Lapis lazuli is a rock, which means it’s an aggregate of several minerals. This ancient gem contains three minerals in varying amounts: lazurite, calcite, and pyrite. Sometimes, it also contains one or more of the following: diopside, amphibole, feldspar, and mica.

	Lapis lazuli is an aggregate of several minerals. Lazurite grains provide its characteristic color. The higher the percentage of lazurite grains in the aggregate, the darker the blue color. - John Koivula
Lapis frequently contains varying amounts of whitish calcite matrix—the host rock that surrounds the gem—or flecks or veins of glinting yellow pyrite, or both. The gem can also have a smoothly uniform bodycolor, free of visible pyrite and calcite.

	Calcite shows up as white flecks or streaks in the aggregate.

	The golden, metallic-looking spots in lapis are pyrite. - Robert Weldon, courtesy Gary Bowersox
Lapis is semitranslucent to opaque, with a waxy to vitreous luster. It has fair toughness, and its hardness ranges from 5 to 6 on the Mohs scale, depending on the mix of minerals.

Variously described as indigo, royal, midnight, or marine blue, lapis lazuli’s signature hue is slightly greenish blue to violetish blue, medium to dark in tone, and highly saturated. In its most-prized form, lapis lazuli has no visible calcite, although it might have gold-colored pyrite flecks. If the flecks are small and sprinkled attractively throughout the gem, their presence doesn’t necessarily lower lapis lazuli’s value. The lowest-quality lapis looks dull and green, the result of an excess of pyrite. Lapis with white calcite streaks is less valuable.

	The calcite matrix in this cabochon will lower its appeal to most buyers. - Robert Weldon
Although many people associate lapis with dark blue, it’s also found in other shades of blue, and even other hues. Its color can range from deep violet blue and royal blue to light blue to turquoise blue to a greenish blue. The combination of different minerals in the aggregate determines the color. For example, lazurite is responsible for producing royal blue lapis, while a mineral called afghanite creates a pale blue shade.

	This striking freeform carving displays a lovely shade of blue along with attractive golden pyrite accents. - Robert Weldon, courtesy Gary Bowersox
Worldwide, lapis is mined in several areas. The traditional source of the finest lapis lazuli is the same today as it was thousands of years ago—the mountains of Afghanistan. Other major sources are Chile and Lake Baikal in Siberia, Russia. Minor sources are Angola, Canada, Colorado (US), and Pakistan.

	Afghanistan is the world’s major source of lapis lazuli as well as the major source of the gem’s best color. - Dr. Edward J. Gubelin @chapter:0 @chapter:0 @chapter:0


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Warm Up to Cocoa-Colored Gems
# Abstract: Chocolate has found its way to the necks, arms, hands, and bodices of fashion runway models.
According to experts at GIA (Gemological Institute of America), gemstones with warm, brown tones are heating up. And many of the world’s most influential designers in couture apparel and jewelry have built fashion menus around shades of brown – from the most delicate caramels and mochas to the darkest chocolates and coffees.

For the ultimate in russet glamour, think diamonds. Brown diamonds. A lightly tinted brown diamond, often marketed as a “champagne” diamond, or a darker “cognac” diamond, can accentuate a warm-toned wardrobe. The Institute, which grades many of the world’s diamonds, advises to always ask for a GIA Diamond Grading Report whenever purchasing a diamond.

Other brown and golden-colored gems that can heat up your wardrobe include sunstone, andalusite, citrine, tiger’s-eye, and amber. Fire opal is also a hot new front-runner in jewelry designs. Smoky quartz is sizzling too. Bold rings and pendants made of rough-cut crystals of rutilated quartz with gold and black needle-like inclusions remain popular.

Bronze-colored pearls can’t be left out either. From large Tahitians to fancy-shaped freshwaters, natural- and treated-color pearls come in a range of hues that complement sophisticated fall gem fashions.

The key to wearing the new browns in jewelry is to go for contrast: cognac diamonds juxtaposed with colorless diamonds; bronze pearls alternating with white pearls; and tiger’s-eye set in silver, just to name a few possibilities.

Other gems can create the same look, according to GIA’s gem mavens. Cat’s-eye, topaz, and brown zircon, and agate, even lesser-known gems like chrysoberyl and dravite, all provide the brownish shades favored by some designers. @chapter:28 @chapter:2 @chapter:28


# Publication Year: 2016
# Title: Rare Emerald from China and Pink Sapphire from Sri Lanka
# Abstract: Figure 1. This 5.06 ct emerald from China’s Yunnan province is one of the finest from this source. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA, courtesy of 100% Natural Ltd.

	At the AGTA show, David Nassi of 100% Natural Ltd. (New York) showed the authors a 5.06 ct bright yellowish green emerald from China’s southwestern Yunnan province. The stone had some eye-visible inclusions, mainly fissures (figure 1). Other than a few tiny chips along the girdle, the cut gave the emerald a very elegant appearance. Mr. Nassi purchased the stone from a reliable Thai gem dealer who bought it from a Pakistani merchant who obtained it along the China-Pakistan border. Since Mr. Nassi is a cutter who deals with many antique jewelry pieces mounted with stones, he usually recuts stones before selling them. He kept this emerald “as is” due to the superb quality and size for this specific source. The stone was certified by the American Gemological Laboratory as without oil treatment, with China as the country of origin.

	China’s only economically viable emerald deposit is located in Malipo County in Yunnan province. The deposit was first discovered in the early 1990s but has never been extensively prospected or mined. Emerald specimens and crystals are extracted as the byproduct of the tungsten and tin deposit. Geologically, the ore body occurs in a core complex and is related to granitic intrusions in that area. Geochemical studies revealed that the trace element vanadium concentration is about one magnitude higher than that of chromium, indicating that V is the predominant chromophore in Yunnan emerald.

	The size and quality of this emerald are rare for Yunnan. Since the stones contain abundant fissures, most of the production is sold as mineral specimens or ornamental pieces (figure 2). A very small percentage can be faceted for jewelry. As the local government pays more attention to this emerald resource, new development and further exploration are expected.

Figure 2. Due to the fissures in Chinese emerald, stones are usually marketed as mineral specimens. This emerald crystal is still in the matrix. Courtesy of Yunnan Emerald Magazine.

	Mr. Nassi also showed us an intensely saturated 24.69 ct Sri Lankan pink sapphire (figure 3), from a necklace he had obtained from another estate jewelry dealer. Although the necklace itself was unattractive, Mr. Nassi immediately saw potential in the sapphire. He estimated the weight of the mounted stone and made an offer to buy the necklace. The stone, which was abraded with multiple scratches, lost two carats in its recutting but showed a dramatic improvement.

Figure 3. This 24.59 ct Sri Lankan pink sapphire was removed from an estate necklace and recut to bring out its full potential. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA, courtesy of 100% Natural Ltd. @chapter:0 @chapter:0 @chapter:0


# Publication Year: 2023
# Title: The diamond industry of Israel.
# Abstract: Diamonds are classified as jewelry and precious gems, which are crucial commodities in trade between Thailand and Israel, ranking high in both exports and imports over the past several years. In the year 2565-2566 (Jan-May), Thailand imported these commodities predominantly from Israel, totaling 5,081 million baht, a 67% increase from 2564. Similarly, in 2566 (Jan-May), imports amounted to 2,289 million baht, marking a 29% increase from the same period.
Exports are equally significant. Jewelry and gems ranked second in Thailand's exports during 2565-2566 (Jan-May), with exports to Israel totaling 2,854 million baht in 2565, a 26% increase from 2564. In 2566 (Jan-May), exports reached 1,083 million baht, a 20% rise from the corresponding period.
Israel's diamond industry plays a crucial role in its economy, dating back nearly a century, well before the establishment of the State of Israel in 1948. It is noteworthy as a major source of income for the country and a leading export industry. Israel is known as the world's largest exporter of polished diamonds and a significant hub for raw diamond trade, generating substantial income and creating jobs for its citizens. This has had a profound positive impact on related sectors such as finance, high-tech diamond cutting technology, transportation, security systems, and banking services, all of which have seen significant development alongside the diamond industry.
Israel's diamond industry is characterized by its long and fascinating history, starting almost a hundred years ago, well before the establishment of the state of Israel in 1948. It is intriguing because it has been a major source of the country's significant income value, being one of Israel's leading export industries. Israel Diamond Exchange, the largest and most important diamond trading center globally, has been dubbed the 'World's Diamond Merchants'. It is one of the top five diamond exporters in the world, alongside India, the United States, Hong Kong, and Belgium. The prominence of India and the United States is unsurprising, given their large populations and abundant resources, and Belgium is well known as the capital of long-standing diamond trade. Hong Kong is known for its role as a trade representative of China and is a key port city. But for Israel, "Israel" is just a small country that does not even have its own diamond mine, but why has this country been able to export so many diamonds, because of the advantage points that have promoted the industry, with advanced diamond cutting and polishing technology that makes it possible to buy sell merchandise customs @chapter:37 @chapter:3 @chapter:37


# Publication Year: 2015
# Title: Dyed and Natural Green Jadeite
# Abstract: Figure 1. Left: In natural light, the green band in the lower right section of the jadeite specimen is caused by natural chromium, while the other green spots are the result of a dye treatment. Right: Long-wave UV light shows a strong fluorescence from the dyed areas, with little to no fluorescence from the natural green area. Photo by Robison McMurtry.

The most coveted jadeite stones possess a deep rich green color. Lower-quality jadeite specimens are often treated with acid bleaching, polymer impregnation, and dyes to obtain this sought-after hue (E. Fritsch et al., “Identification of bleached and polymer-impregnated jadeite,” Fall 1992 G&G, pp. 176–187). It is quite unusual to see stones with even a small amount of natural green color further altered with dyes. When this does happen, the natural properties of the untreated area can make it especially challenging to properly identify the stone as dyed.

Recently, the Carlsbad laboratory examined a carved jadeite specimen (figure 1). Standard gemological testing and Raman spectroscopy confirmed that the specimen was jadeite; infrared spectroscopy indicated the specimen had been polymer impregnated. Observation with a desktop spectroscope revealed lines at 630 and 655 nm, which are associated with chromium impurities in naturally colored green jadeite. Observation under long-wave UV light revealed strong green-yellow fluorescence from most green areas of the stone, but not from the area where Cr lines were seen in the spectroscope. The colorless portions of the stone were also inert to UV light. Strong fluorescence in jadeite is often indicative of either polymer impregnation or a dye treatment; however, fluorescence from polymers would be evenly distributed throughout the stone due to the nature of impregnation. The fact that this stone only fluoresced from the green areas was strong evidence of dyeing rather than impregnation.

Figure 2. Left: A close-up of the natural green area shows a smooth, diffused color texture. Photomicrograph by Jonathan Muyal; field of view 7.19 mm. Right: A close-up of a dyed area shows color concentrations in the thin gaps between the crystal grains of jadeite. Photomicrograph by Jonathan Muyal; field of view 3.57 mm.
Microscopic observation (figure 2) revealed concentrations of green color in the boundary gaps in between grains, typical of dyed jadeite. The green area without fluorescence possessed a smoother, more consistent green color, which is customary for natural jadeite. Absorption spectroscopy in the UV, visible, and near-IR range confirmed that the natural area contained an absorption band from 530 to 740 nm, punctuated by natural chromium peaks at 691 and 655 nm (figure 3). The dyed green areas contained a double band around 627 and 665 nm, which is typical of dyed green jadeite.

Figure 3. UV-Vis-NIR spectra of the jadeite in the 250–850 nm range showed chromium
lines at 655 and 691 nm in the natural green area and double broad bands around 627
and 665 nm in the dyed green area.
The proper treatment identification of jadeite is essential to the consumer’s confidence in this stone. Testing only a portion of this material might convince an observer that no dye had been applied. One must always expect the unexpected when attempting to determine treatments in any gemstone. @chapter:46 @chapter:4 @chapter:46


# Publication Year: 2021
# Title: Prida Tiasuwan (Pranda Jewelry Group)
# Abstract: COVID-19 safety measures in place at this Pranda facility include a disinfection tunnel at the entrance. Photo courtesy of Pranda Jewelry Public Company Limited.

Thailand enjoys a strong reputation for jewelry manufacturing, employing a highly skilled workforce in its many factories. Although it was the second nation with confirmed COVID-19 cases, Thailand remained relatively unaffected by the virus. The government quickly imposed strong measures such as remote work, curfews, and closure of places where people gather in great numbers. The action that arguably had the greatest impact was the closure of its international borders. The government tightly controlled travel to the country and enforced a strict 14-day quarantine for everyone who entered. Today, more people are allowed to enter, but the two-week quarantine is still mandatory.
The travel ban had a devastating impact on the region, which relies heavily on tourism and business travel, but it also left its mark on the local jewelry manufacturing scene. We spoke with Prida Tiasuwan, chairman of the Pranda Jewelry Group, about the situation in Thailand. He confirmed that the proactive measures taken by the government affected business in the first months of COVID, but this period did not last very long. By June 2020, business was returning, and a few months later demand was high, most likely because of the upcoming holiday season. This positive outlook continued with the arrival of vaccines in early 2021.
The Pranda facilities operated at reduced capacity during the Thai lockdown, which allowed the company to save costs due to reduced salaries for all staff and selected furloughs in April and May. Mr. Tiasuwan personally headed a task force consisting of department managers to ensure that all 2,200 staff remained safe and production could return to a normal pace as soon as possible.
By temporarily reducing capacity, they were able to improve working conditions for staff, including social distancing measures. Employees quickly adopted these new principles, and many of them were able to work from home. Since August 2020, the facilities have been back at full capacity with all required precautions, including a “Safe and Clean” campaign to remind everyone of the simple steps they can take to prevent the spread of the virus (see above).
Still, Pranda encountered issues with the supply of raw materials such as diamonds and certain colored stones. These are typically sourced or cut in countries such as India and China, where the impact on businesses was more severe during the first months of the pandemic. On the other end of the chain, physical retail was heavily impacted but was compensated by an increase in e-commerce.
The economic impact of the pandemic is also reflected in the demand for jewelry, according to Mr. Tiasuwan. The focus is on simple pieces in smaller sizes, with very few set stones or none at all. Customers have not been looking for fancy, colorful jewels during the pandemic, but Pranda expects this to change once the economic situation stabilizes. @chapter:32 @chapter:3 @chapter:32


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Client Encounters Teach Valuable Retail Lessons
# Abstract: Students at GIA’s campus in Carlsbad gather around Larry French, left, as he shows them the “Gran Dama,” a brooch designed by Gianmaria Buccellati. The brooch features white, blue, yellow and pink diamonds, and a 98.67 carat Melo pearl – believed to be the eighth-largest in the world – from Vietnam.  Only about 80 Melo pearls are known worldwide. Photo by Eric Welch, © GIA

	Success in the jewelry industry often requires drive and determination.

	That’s why when Larry French was turned down from a job at Van Cleef and Arpels in Los Angeles, he applied again.

	And again. And again.

	It took a total of eight attempts before owner Claude Arpels offered him a position.

	That determination is what took French from driving a tractor in a cornfield in Indiana to selling jewelry to celebrities and dignitaries around the world. The industry veteran spent 23 years at Van Cleef and Arpels before taking a position as store director at Buccellati Beverly Hills in the early 1990s.

	French shared anecdotes from his career with students at GIA’s Carlsbad campus on Nov. 6, 2013. Beyond accounts of famed actresses and rock stars, he imparted the advice for success he’s learned from his many years in the industry.

	He still vividly remembers the first piece of jewelry he sold, although not for its grandeur.

	“It was a crystal bead necklace for $1.99,” French said of his first sale in the costume jewelry department of a large store. He said he persuaded the customer to also buy the matching earrings for a dollar.

	French’s interest in gems began long before his stint in the costume jewelry department. “When I was a kid, I would read through National Geographic magazines and was fascinated with articles about golden idols with emerald eyes or stories about a new ruby mine,” he said. “The reason I got in this business was a real love of exotic stones and the history and stories behind them – which I find as fascinating as the stones themselves.”

	French said he entered an essay contest organized by the American Gem Society (AGS) in the mid-1960s. He doesn’t remember what he wrote in his essay application, but said it was interesting enough for the judges to award him a GIA scholarship. He said the courses further sparked his passion for gem stones and his determination to pursue the job at Van Cleef and Arpels.

	French said he has had the opportunity to see and sell many remarkable gems throughout his career. He described some of the most notable pieces and clients, including an invisible-set diamond and sapphire ring for musician Elton John and a trip from New York to California with Napoleon Bonaparte’s crown in a duffle bag.

	One account, in particular, left the audience in awe.

	Actress Elizabeth Taylor routinely had her gems and jewelry cleaned at his Van Cleef and Arpels store, so it came as no surprise when her assistant dropped off “La Peregrina,” a 50 carat natural pearl, for cleaning. But after the assistant left, French’s associate noticed scratches.

	“There were deep scratches,” he said. “This was bad. I knew how famous the pearl was. There was no way I could prove the pearl wasn’t flawless when it was brought in.”

	He said he paced the store in a state of panic for an hour before he called Taylor’s assistant to try to explain the situation. The assistant only laughed and told French he knew the pearl was scratched – they were bite marks from Taylor’s dog.

	Naturally, French offered this advice to students: always give a condition report.

	He also described what he considers to be the most valuable piece of jewelry he’s ever seen – a garnet and pearl ring a young woman brought into the Buccellati store to be repaired. The ring had belonged to her mother, grandmother and great-grandmother and she was heartbroken that it was in such poor condition because she wanted to wear it for her wedding. The store repaired the family heirloom so the client could continue the tradition.

	“Ever since that day, in spite of the great pieces I’ve sold in my life, I changed what I think creates value,” French said. “Value is not just carat weight … it has to do with the love that people put on jewelry, on what it means to them and their family.”

	He said jewelry is the only business with such sentimental value.

	When asked what advice he has for success, French shared a quote from Peter Carl Faberge: be noble.

	“If you can find a way to be [noble], you’ll certainly go far in your career,” he said. “Companies may go bankrupt … but you’ll be alright. They can't take that from you – no matter what happens.” @chapter:45 @chapter:3 @chapter:45


# Publication Year: 2017
# Title: New Phenomenal Feldspar from North Carolina with Iridescent Inclusions
# Abstract: Brown and black exsolution platelets of hematite and ilmenite in feldspar (left) show colorful thin-film interference colors in oblique fiber-optic illumination (right). Photomicrographs by Nathan Renfro; fields of view 3.55 mm.
Several varieties of aventurescent feldspar are well known in the gem trade. Of these, one of the most remarkable is orthoclase from the Hart’s Range area in Australia. This unique material showcases exsolution platelets of hematite and ilmenite that display thin-film interference colors along the interface between the exsolution product and the feldspar host. Because of its array of colors and the crosshatch pattern of exsolution platelets, the material’s trade name is “rainbow lattice sunstone.”

The authors recently examined samples of potassium feldspar from a relatively obscure source (see above) that displayed a phenomenon remarkably similar to Australian rainbow lattice sunstone. This new material is reported to be from the Statesville area of North Carolina and contains brown and black exsolution platelets of hematite and ilmenite showing thin-film interference colors along the interface with the host feldspar. This deposit was first reported by George Frederick Kunz (Gems and Precious Stones of North America, The Scientific Publishing Co., New York, 1890, p. 164). Chemical analysis of the feldspar was performed using laser ablation–inductively coupled plasma–mass spectrometry (LA-ICP-MS), and the results were consistent with potassium feldspar.

Local prospector Ryan Underwood first found samples of this material as loose crystal fragments and traced them back to their source rock, a metamorphic biotite gneiss. The crystals are brittle, apparently as a result of metamorphic stresses, and tend to cleave during cutting. As such, material suitable for cutting is rare and finished stones tend to be small (though some large multicrystalline specimens up to 30 cm in diameter have been recovered). Base colors include blue-gray, tan, and a pink color apparently induced by additional fine hematite inclusions. @chapter:5 @chapter:0 @chapter:5


# Publication Year: 1995
# Title: Winter 1995 G&G Lab Notes
# Abstract: Fancy Black Diamond with Iron
Fracture-Filled Diamond with Unusual Material
Extremely Thin Jadeite Jade Carving
A Testing Precaution for Jadeite Jade
Impregnated Synthetic Opal
Green and Yellow Bicolor Synthetic Quartz
Rock Resembling Jadeite
Ruby with Atypically High R.I.'s
Two Rubies with Unusual Features
Sapphire with Zoned Transmission Luminescence
Synthetic Sapphire with Color Changed by UV Radiation
Magnetic Serpentine
Spinel with Hogbomite Inclusions (?)
A Topaz Assemblage
Zircon with Phantom Planes

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:18 @chapter:1 @chapter:18


# Publication Year: 2016
# Title: Unique Drilled Emerald
# Abstract: Figure 1. This 3.39 ct emerald (8.91 × 8.87 × 7.61 mm) is moderately clarity enhanced, obscuring two drill holes (not visible in this photo). Photo by Sood Oil (Judy) Chia.

	A 3.39 ct emerald, as confirmed by standard gemological testing, was received by the New York lab (figure 1). At first glance it appeared to be a typical emerald with moderate clarity enhancement. It was categorized as F2, indicating that the fracturing present in the stone had a noticeable but not significant effect on the face-up appearance. Further microscopic examination of the pavilion revealed two prominent drill holes filled with a resin and emerald fragments (figure 2). The resin displayed a blue and yellow flash effect, and gas bubbles trapped in the resin were also present (figure 3). The filler had much higher relief than the emerald host and was clearly visible under reflected light due to the difference in luster between the two materials (figure 4).

Figure 2. With microscopic examination, the circular outline of the drill hole is apparent on the pavilion facet of the emerald. Photo by Edyta J. Banasiak; field of view 4.08 mm.

Figure 3. This drill hole shows a blue and orange flash effect along the interface between the emerald and the resin filler. Photo by Edyta J. Banasiak; field of view 3.57 mm.

	The question arose as to why such a treatment would be performed on this stone. Microscopic observation did not yield any clues. One hypothesis would be that eye-visible inclusions were removed by drilling, analogous to the laser-drilling treatment well known in diamonds. Assuming this theory is true, the “enhancement” actually significantly reduced the value of this good-quality emerald. We concluded that the stone contained a resinous material in the drill holes along with emerald fragments. This was the first time GIA’s New York lab had witnessed this type of enhancement in an emerald.

Figure 4. Examination of the drill hole in reflected light shows an emerald fragment intentionally placed in the opening, presumably to conceal the hole. Note the luster difference between the emerald and the resin filler. Photo by Edyta J. Banasiak; field of view 3.57 mm. @chapter:10 @chapter:0 @chapter:10


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Decades-Old Synthetic Alexandrite Sheds Light on Modern Research Needs
# Abstract: Figure 1. These rough and faceted synthetic alexandrites, grown by Creative Crystals Inc., are shown in daylight (blue-green, top) and incandescent light (bottom). The crystals were grown on seeds parallel to the b pinacoid (1, 2), parallel to the r prism (3, 6) or parallel to the l dipyramid (4); the 13.49 ct faceted synthetic alexandrite measuring 16.6 × 11.8 mm (5) was grown on a seed parallel to the r prism. Photos courtesy of K. Schmetzer, The Journal of Gemmology.

                      For decades, much attention has been given to provenance studies of natural colored gemstones (such as emerald, ruby, and sapphire), as knowing their place of origin is significant in valuation. Synthetic colored stones do not command the same price per carat as their natural counterparts, but being able to pinpoint the growth technique and possibly the manufacturer is of value to the jewelry consumer, researcher, or collector. For example, many flux and hydrothermal producers can command a premium for their “luxury synthetics” over more quickly grown flame-fusion or Czochralski crystals.

The synthetic alexandrite produced by Creative Crystals Inc. from 1971 to the early 1980s exhibited true red-green color change (figure 1), and with no production for the last 30 years, these specimens are a rarity. A recent study by Karl Schmetzer, Heinz-Jurgen Bernhardt, and Thomas Hainschwang (“Flux-grown synthetic alexandrites from Creative Crystals Inc.,” The Journal of Gemmology, 2012, Volume 33, Number 1–4, pp. 49–81) goes into fascinating detail on the company’s history, how the seed crystals were generated, and how the crystals were grown, unlocking the mystery of the distinct growth zoning observed in these particular synthetics.

The authors’ diligence in collecting a highly representative group of samples of this out-of-production material, as well as their thorough review of the available literature, is commendable. Woven into the article are interesting tidbits about the various seed origins and orientations used for growing these alexandrites, which demonstrates how both practical considerations and research-based findings can influence production and ultimately quality. A highlight of the article is the two-page history recounted by David Patterson, a former owner of Creative Crystals Inc.

	Figure 2. This microphotograph shows layered growth zoning associated with intense color zoning in a faceted synthetic alexandrite grown by Creative Crystals Inc.; immersion, field of view 5.3 × 4.0 mm. Photo courtesy of K. Schmetzer, The Journal of Gemmology.
To capture the uniqueness of these synthetics, the authors conducted meticulous microscopic studies. Several other techniques—including X-ray fluorescence, electron microprobe, and ultraviolet through infrared absorption spectroscopy—were used to describe corresponding chemical and optical zoning, pleochroism, absorption bands, and inclusions. The authors draw clear correlations between growth parameters and crystal characteristics, such as the impact of seed orientation on morphology. Even more significantly, they link the previously unexplained internal growth bands (figure 2) to multiple growth cycles – the growing crystals were actually removed from the furnace repeatedly to assess their progress. Similarly, I.G. Farben grew synthetic emeralds in the 1930s using multiple growth cycles (Karl Schmetzer, Lore Kiefert, “The colour of Igmerald: I.G. Farbenindustrie flux-grown synthetic emerald,” The Journal of Gemmology, 1998, Volume 26, Number 3, pp. 145-155). However, Creative Crystals would cool the melt slightly during cycles lasting one week whereas I.G. Farben would keep the melt at a constant temperature during 20-day cycles.  Using a temperature gradient to grow synthetic alexandrite was not practiced for several more years (Karl Schmetzer, personal communication). A comparison with commercially produced flux alexandrite from Russia also illustrates how characterization techniques can reveal details of the growth process.

The article is not a light read, 33 pages in length with 46 figures and well over 100 images. But for crystal growers or those simply interested in understanding more about gem synthesis, this article serves as a window into the crystal growth engineering process, and how a specimen’s characteristics can shed light on its origin. Other synthetic materials have been similarly studied, and the need for such analyses continues to increase as additional synthetics and more advanced characterization techniques emerge. @chapter:5 @chapter:0 @chapter:5


# Publication Year: -
# Title: GIA's Gübelin Gem Project: Various Gems, Olivine - Rutile
# Abstract: Peridot
Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA, courtesy Dr. E. J. Gübelin Collection
GIA Collection 33884

Among the collection assembled by Dr. Edward Gübelin are a number of uncommon gemstones from many worldwide localities. Documents, like the ones below, present information on gemstones that range from occasional use in jewelry to those that are quite rare and seldom faceted because of the lack of suitable starting material.

33884

			18.72 ct Olivine (Forsterite) -
			Peridot
			Egypt (PDF)

33885

			19.46 ct Olivine (Forsterite) -
			Peridot
			Egypt (PDF)

33879

			28.99 ct Olivine (Forsterite) -
			Peridot
			Myanmar (PDF)

35195

			5.92 ct Olivine (Forsterite) -
			Peridot
			The United States (PDF)

33367

			6.05 ct Opal
			Mexico (PDF)

34464

			6.59 ct Opal
			Mexico (PDF)

35459

			5.38 ct Parisite
			Colombia (PDF)

35196

			15.94 ct Periclase
			The United States (PDF)

35474

			11.14 ct Petalite
			Brazil (PDF)

34291

			16.48 ct Petalite
			Brazil (PDF)

35463

			41.12 ct Petalite
			Brazil (PDF)

35461

			17.60 ct Petalite
			Locality not stated (PDF)

35633

			2.92 ct Pezzottaite
			Madagascar (PDF)

35636

			4.15 ct Pezzottaite
			Madagascar (PDF)

34089

			33.15 ct Phenakite
			Brazil (PDF)

34094

			15.53 ct Phenakite
			Russia (PDF)

34861

			5.81 ct Phenakite
			Sri Lanka (PDF)

35478

			16.48 ct Phosgenite
			Morocco (PDF)

35466

			25.56 ct Phosgenite
			Morocco (PDF)

35481

			5.12 ct Phosphophyllite
			Bolivia (PDF)

35207

			2.69 ct Pollucite
			The United States (PDF)

35623

			31.53 ct Powellite
			India (PDF)

35486

			8.56 ct Prehnite
			Australia (PDF)

35485

			10.55 ct Prehnite
			Australia (PDF)

35468

			13.61 ct Prehnite
			Locality not stated (PDF)

35467

			15.18 ct Prehnite
			South Africa (PDF)

35208

			11.10 ct Prehnite
			The United States (PDF)

35469

			12.07 ct Proustite
			Chile (PDF)

35015

			4.87 ct Pyroxene (Bronzite)
			Tanzania (PDF)

34414

			4.52 ct Pyroxene (Diopside)
			Madagascar (PDF)

34560

			8.34 ct Pyroxene (Diopside)
			Myanmar (PDF)

34565

			14.19 ct Pyroxene (Diopside)
			Myanmar (PDF)

34847

			13.55 ct Pyroxene (Diopside)
			Sri Lanka (PDF)

35381

			3.70 ct Pyroxene (Diopside)
			The United States (PDF)

35385

			0.91 ct Pyroxene (Diopside) -
			Chrome Diopside
			Kenya (PDF)

34413

			9.15 ct Pyroxene (Enstatite)
			Madagascar (PDF)

34561

			1.50 ct Pyroxene (Enstatite)
			Myanmar

34846

			2.90 ct Pyroxene (Enstatite)
			Sri Lanka (PDF)

34826

			6.32 ct Pyroxene (Enstatite)
			Sri Lanka (PDF)

34819

			9.98 ct Pyroxene (Enstatite)
			Sri Lanka (PDF)

34827

			12.05 ct Pyroxene (Enstatite)
			Sri Lanka (PDF)

34820

			16.31 ct Pyroxene (Enstatite)
			Sri Lanka (PDF)

35004

			13.38 ct Pyroxene (Enstatite)
			Tanzania (PDF)

34034

			6.47 ct Pyroxene (Hypersthene)
			India (PDF)

34644

			9.72 ct Pyroxene (Jadeite)
			Myanmar (PDF)

35584

			8.54 ct Pyroxmangite
			Brazil (PDF)

34442

			30.23 ct Quartz
			Mexico (PDF)

33422

			56.19 ct Quartz
			Locality not stated (PDF)

33388

			23.76 ct Quartz - Amethyst
			Brazil (PDF)

35264

			10.95 ct Quartz - Amethyst
			Zimbabwe (PDF)

35001

			4.94 ct Quartz - Chalcedony
			(Chrysoprase)
			Tanzania (PDF)

33423

			26.57 ct Quartz - Citrine
			Locality not stated (PDF)

35299

			8.10 ct Quartz - Citrine
			Zimbabwe (PDF)

35257

			11.11 ct Quartz - Citrine
			Zimbabwe (PDF)

33385

			29.04 ct Quartz - Rose Quartz
			Locality not stated (PDF)

35019

			5.21 ct Rhodochrosite
			South Africa (PDF)

34709

			11.32 ct Rhodochrosite
			South Africa (PDF)

34679

			17.77 ct Rhodochrosite
			South Africa (PDF)

35491

			4.62 ct Rhodochrosite
			The United States (PDF)

35209

			9.06 ct Rhodochrosite
			The United States (PDF)

35212

			10.50 ct Rhodochrosite
			The United States (PDF)

35496

			2.09 ct Rhodonite
			Australia (PDF)

34865

			4.69 ct Rutile
			Sri Lanka (PDF)

34855

			5.64 ct Rutile
			Sri Lanka (PDF) @chapter:30 @chapter:0 @chapter:30


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Design in the Fast Lane
# Abstract: Sports cars. Motorcycles. Men’s jewelry. An odd group at first glance, but take a closer look and you’ll see that they share common design elements: sleek lines, polished metal, matte black and fire-engine red color palettes, and more. That’s not surprising, as these design choices project status, power, and affluence – qualities likely to appeal to all.

Cross-pollination of design ideas between the automotive and jewelry industries is nothing new. Porsche has a jewelry division that makes cufflinks, necklaces, and earrings. Ferrari makes cufflinks featuring its iconic rearing horse. In May 2013, Jewel-Craft Inc. introduced the Insignia Collection – a jewelry collection based on the five most marketable drives of NASCAR. Pieces include steering wheel earrings and key chains in the shape of racing helmets.

To celebrate the 50th anniversary of the Ford Mustang, some 49 companies used the car’s logo on watches, cologne, commemorative Mustang leather jackets, nail polish, video games, die-cast models, apparel, and a number of other products, according to an April 2013 web article on Marketing Daily. Breitling took the idea a step further: it partnered with Bentley to make watches that feature the automaker’s iconic winged logo.

	Car design has a gravitational pull that extends far from the parking lot, influencing office dress and evening wear. Now that men are wearing more accessories, it’s natural to see car motifs showing up in jewelry design.

		McKenzie Santimer, Exhibit Developer, GIA Museum

Jewelry designers use a variety of techniques to capture the sleek beauty and raw power of car design. Making a piece often starts with drawing basic sketches, which are then migrated into computer-aided design (CAD) software. Using 3D CAD software is similar to making a clay model of a car, and allows members of the design team to provide feedback easily.

"GIA's Jewelry Design & Technology program incorporates a similar design concept. Students make rough sketches of their ideas. They then create the design in CAD. This lets them make realistic, full-color renderings, and to see the piece from multiple viewpoints. Students then share their work, getting feedback from classmates and their instructor. Once the concept has been finalized, they create 3D rapid prototypes with 3D printers or wax milling," says Mark Mann, director, Global Jewelry Manufacturing Arts.

	Of Hubcaps and Cufflinks
Cufflinks masquerading as hubcaps? These high-polished metal pieces sure look like them. And the matte black and fire-engine red color scheme is likely to appeal to men who love sports cars. So will the geometric symmetry of the circle-within-a-circle-within-a-circle design.

	Photo, left, by Eric Welch/GIA, courtesy Craig Selimotic Danforth

	Unchained and Ready to Wear
This ID bracelet looks like a motorcycle chain in many ways. It is made of a two-toned metal, has a continuous locking pattern, and flathead screws that are integral to the design. These elements make for a bold, masculine statement that are tough enough for the most macho motorcyclist.

	Photo, right, © GIA

	Function Over Form
Polished chrome pipes, gleaming carburetors, and exposed gears show that auto aficionados love the inside of their machines as much as the outside. It’s the appreciation of the beauty under the hood, and the valuing of function over form. This titanium watch echoes the same design principles of speed machines. It’s so stripped down that its exposed “engine” and gears are the design – something sure to rev up the car enthusiast.

	Photo, right, by Eric Welch/GIA, courtesy A. Gunalp Horologist Watch & Clock Shop

	Fender Bending
These cufflinks, whose simple, geometric lines evoke the Art Deco era, could resemble the grille of a classic car. They also look like tire treads.

Whatever the designer’s inspiration, the cufflinks are simple and functional. Their tri-color also makes for easy mixing and matching with belt buckles, watches, and other accessories.

	Photo, left, by Eric Welch/GIA, courtesy Craig Selimotic Danforth
The next time you’re designing jewelry, take a stroll through the parking lot. A car design may end up fueling your inspiration. @chapter:20 @chapter:2 @chapter:20


# Publication Year: 2023
# Title: Surat Diamond Bourse, a new diamond market that's better than before.
# Abstract: The Surat Diamond Bourse (SDB) is a new and significant diamond trading market in India, located in Surat city. It is expected to be larger than the Pentagon building in the United States. The new SDB project is estimated to cost around 3,500 Crore (151 billion Baht) and is scheduled to start operations in December 2023. News sources indicate that there will be an invitation for Narendra Modi, the Prime Minister of India, to inaugurate this diamond trading market.

The relocation of the diamond trading market to Surat has sparked great interest among diamond traders. Key proposals include a one-year exemption from maintenance fees for businesses that relocate and commence operations by November 21. Additionally, there will be advertising campaigns targeted at companies moving, aimed at creating business incentives to attract major diamond companies from Mumbai to operate in Surat.

The relocation of the diamond trading market from Mumbai to Surat, supported by the Indian government, presents a special and beneficial opportunity for Thai companies looking to invest or promote trade in the jewelry and gem industry within Surat's diamond trading market (SDB). However, the jewelry and gem industry has been affected by the global downturn in diamond trading, leading to unavoidable impacts on the workforce in the diamond industry and an important economic force
Zavier Bazaar is a significant jewelry and jewelry trading center that has been established for over 50 years in the city of Mumbai. This industry has experienced remarkable growth, with diamond traders moving from Prasad Chambers to the Pancharatna building in Opera House in 1975. The diamond trading market spans across an area of up to 20 acres and houses around 2,500 offices in the BKC area. This kingdom also includes numerous amenities such as seven banks, nineteen restaurants, two online trading platforms, three diamond testing labs, five equipment maintenance staff, and customs clearance services.

While the Bharat Diamond Bourse (BDB) continues its global trading operations, Surat has emerged as a city born out of the business of cutting and polishing raw diamonds, leveraging its affordable labor force. The Kathiawadi labor group, known for their expertise, has become leaders in craftsmanship and expanded business operations to several cities with manufacturing facilities. As a result, the diamond trading market in Mumbai, specifically the BDB, has become a hub for wealthy individuals in the diamond industry and a vital trading center globally.

A member of the SDB team expressed contrasting views regarding the comparison between Mumbai and Surat in the jewelry and gem industry, including the Palanpuri and Kathiawadi labor groups. They argued that the establishment of SDB focused solely on collaborative work. The proposal for office spaces in the diamond trading market requires advance booking, and the free maintenance fee offer is not exclusive to businesses from Mumbai but open to all reservations, whether from Mumbai, Delhi, Dubai, or any other city. Furthermore, the team cited Surat's development, transforming from a fashion hub to an industrial city, emphasizing the need for Surat to become a trade center to achieve its vision successfully. Since 1975, Surat has evolved into a significant apparel manufacturing city and a trading hub.
     When comparing the potential of the diamond industry between Mumbai and Surat, one diamond polisher in Mumbai commented that Surat is not yet ready to offer suitable conditions to international customers. Despite being a dry state where the sale of alcohol is prohibited, Surat has only two five-star hotels available for sale, and there are still many bureaucratic processes to navigate. On the other hand, diamond traders have more conveniences in Mumbai, including hotels and restaurants. Additionally, Mumbai has economic support with its airport connecting to many international destinations, whereas Surat lacks favorable transportation infrastructure for business travelers.

Mr. Mahesh Gadhvi, CEO of the Surat Diamond Bourse (SDB), provided a different perspective, noting that although SDB is located in a suburban area, infrastructure development has been ongoing. Currently, the Vande Bharat train connects Mumbai and Surat in just 2.5 hours, with bullet trains taking only one hour. Government efforts to improve transportation, particularly the Diamond Route, have facilitated economic linkages to SDB. Moreover, Surat's airport now offers flights to Sharjah in the UAE three times a week.

Additional information:
Despite the presence of upscale malls and apartments surrounding business centers like SDB/BDB, the declining diamond trade has impacted employment, with 750,000 to 1 million jobs affected. Most of the workforce is engaged in diamond cutting and polishing, with over 5,000 units operating in this sector.
The Russia-Ukraine conflict has impacted the supply chain for rough diamonds, leading to a scarcity of goods. Russia's diamond market has become the first choice in the jewelry industry, even for smaller-sized diamonds. However, when there is a shortage of diamonds demanded in the global market, diamond polishing businesses are affected with reduced orders. This has resulted in a decrease of about 20-30% in employment within the diamond polishing sector in Surat.
Comments
1. Consolidating the diamond trading business into Surat alone could benefit Thai-Indian trade relations. Thai entrepreneurs would have direct access to sources encompassing over 90% of diamond traders and related industries in Surat.

2. Pairing promotional activities with enhanced collaboration with Surat's diamond market would boost trade relations between Indian companies and Thai entrepreneurs. Inviting Surat Diamond Bourse (SDB) entrepreneurs to events like BGJF 2024 is a way to strengthen business relationships and facilitate knowledge exchange.

3. India is a crucial diamond market for Thailand, ranking third in exports after Hong Kong and Belgium from January to September 66. India is Thailand's top import market, with a value of 32,034.93 million baht (64.61% of total imports). Establishing business ties with Surat's diamond market can help Thai diamond traders study and exchange business experiences, enhancing trade opportunities.

4. Developing Thai entrepreneurs' capabilities in the diamond industry through deep knowledge training would help them understand global market trends and demands. For instance, synthetic diamonds have become popular due to the Russia-Ukraine conflict's impact on the supply chain, offering an alternative for consumers and gaining popularity in the wedding jewelry market. @chapter:37 @chapter:3 @chapter:37


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Bright Light at Midnight: Canada’s Far North Land of Diamonds
# Abstract: Immense glaciers leveled hills and carved thousands of lakes in Canada’s far north. They are pure as distilled water and remain partially frozen most of the year. Even in late June, the ice remained five feet thick in some spots. Photo courtesy Rio Tinto

                      Canada’s far north is a vast silent land of stark beauty, molded by mile-high glaciers that carved many thousands of deep ruts and pits, then, as they melted, filled them to create one of the world’s largest networks of lakes. Four of the world’s largest diamond mines are clustered around one these lakes, Lac de Gras.

The diamonds remained hidden until 20 years ago because the unforgiving climate deterred all but the hardiest of human beings – the northern First Nations tribes who have lived there for thousands of years, fishing and trapping for sustenance – from exploring the area.

	Arriving at Yellowknife, 62.4 degrees latitude, just before midnight in the June solstice, the sun is still well above the horizon. Photo by Russell Shor/GIA.
In the 10 weeks of summer at the 64th parallel there are literally endless days, with several weeks of 24-hour light. There is just enough time for the vegetation − dwarf birch, northern Labrador tea, blueberry, mountain cranberry and sphagnum moss − to survive as feed for the herds of caribou that migrate over the rocky terrain in the fall and spring.

The first freeze returns with a vengeance in late September and brings with it the spectacular lights of the Aurora Borealis. The guidebooks say this part of the world is the best place to see nature’s show, and 50,000 tourists journey to the northernmost cities, Whitehorse and Yellowknife, each fall for a view. By December, the temperatures are down to -40°C (-40°F) and there’s but a glimmer of twilight at noontime.

	Caribou are essential to the ecology of Canada’s northland. Photo courtesy of Rio Tinto
The few outsiders who ventured up to the area in the last century and a half were looking for treasure – gold at first, as with the Klondike gold rush of 1897–99. By the 1930s, gold prospectors moved farther east to the Northwest Territories and developed the provincial capital of Yellowknife. At 100 miles south of the tree line, the town sits on the north bank of the Great Slave Lake, near two gold mines. The Great Slave (named after the Slavey tribe that inhabits the area) is the world’s 10th largest lake, covering well over 10,000 square miles, and the deepest in North America, plunging more than 2,000 feet in some spots.

The tree groves that surrounded Yellowknife provided a nearly unlimited source of building materials, first for log cabins, then for processed wood beams and siding. As Yellowknife grew into the provincial capital, prospectors rarely ventured much farther north beyond the tree line, the gold mines wound down, and money stopped pouring into the town.

	Dr. James Shigley, GIA Distinguished Research Fellow, and Pedro Padua, a videographer for GIA, stand in front of one of Yellowknife’s first structures dating from 1935 when most of the settlement was built from logs. Photo by Russell Shor/GIA
A half-century later, another type of prospector came to the region – geologists searching for diamonds.

They were there for sure. People had been finding diamonds in rivers and creeks as far south as Montana in the U.S. for decades. De Beers wanted to find them first, dispatching exploration teams north in the 1980s toward the Mackenzie Mountains near the Yukon border. The team did discover garnets, chromites and ilmenites, minerals that told them diamonds could be nearby, but no diamond sources.

Yellowknife, the closest city at that time, was facing an economic decline, so when De Beers chose it as the staging area for exploration, the locals welcomed it. When the word went round that the De Beers was on the scene, others paid attention, including Superior Oil, a California-based company exploring the area for other minerals.

	Charles Fipke, left, and Stewart Blusson traversed the rugged and remote terrain of Canada’s Northwest Territories for years in their quest to find diamonds. Left photo by GIA; right photo courtesy of Stewart Blusson.
Superior Oil dispatched geologist Charles Fipke in the early 1980s and a team that included another geologist, Stewart Blusson, to the Mackenzies to explore for diamonds. They found the same indicator minerals as De Beers, but Standard Oil quickly lost interest in the project.

The two geologists knew they were on the trail, but it was Blusson, with his strong knowledge of the region’s glacial history, who understood that the glaciers were the key. They carried the indicator minerals across the expanse of barren land that also happened to host the oldest known rocks on Earth (more than 3.9 billion years), making this prime diamond country. The geologists kept up the search, using their own funds to follow the pyrope garnet trail eastward.

Blusson rented and piloted a helicopter to plot a course, setting Fipke on the ground to collect samples until the fall temperatures fell well into the minus range and daylight nearly disappeared. After three years, the composition of samples strongly suggested diamonds, but the money was running out, so Fipke embarked on a fundraising plan to sell shares in an exploration company he founded, DiaMet Minerals.

	Lichen covered rocks and sparse vegetation cover most of Canada’s far north where the growing season is only a few weeks. This is the type of terrain Fipke and Blusson traversed for years as they followed the trail of pyrope garnet. Photo by Russell Shor/GIA
Eight years into the search, the indicator minerals around one large lake were off the charts, but the money was again running out and the encroaching winter had made it impossible to continue. Fipke returned in April 1990, with the ground still frozen solid and enough money for one more day of digging. On that day, after hard digging, he and his team found more indicators, including a large chrome diopside, which told them they were practically standing on a kimberlite pipe.

With these samples, Fipke was able to convince the mining giant BHP to front the funds to finish the job in exchange for a 51% share. Eighteen months later, while war raged in Kuwait, the company announced it had found a world-class diamond deposit at the bottom of Lac de Gras.

	Diavik Mine

	Discover the expansive, beautiful and harsh environment of Canada’s Northwest Territories and go behind-the-scenes of a Canadian diamond mine.
Developing the deposit, which became the Ekati Mine, tested the ability of BHP to develop a large mine without compromising one of the world’s last pristine wildernesses. The lakes are as pure as when they were formed. Despite its barrenness, the area is home to five First Nation tribes (two branches of the Dene First Nation, the Tlicho peoples, the Kitikmewot Inuit and the North Slave Metis), all of whom follow the caribou herds for sustenance, maintaining an ecological balance that has endured for millennia. Mine construction had to ensure the caribou would continue to migrate, which meant preserving all vegetation and ensuring their safe passage through the mining areas.

Today, Canada is the world’s fourth-largest diamond-producing nation. Ekati opened in 1998, followed by Diavik five years later and Snap Lake another five years after that − all within 50 miles of each other. A fourth, Gahcho Kue, will open next year. These, plus the Victor mine in northern Ontario, yielded over 12 million carats in 2014, valued at just over $2 billion.

Exploration teams continue to traverse the northern wilderness. Two mines are under construction elsewhere in Canada, at Fort à la Corne in Saskatchewan and Renard in Quebec, and there are other sites under evaluation.

	The long Arctic winters bring seven to eight months of white landscapes and frozen lakes. The Diavik Diamond Mine, above, is in a kimberlite cluster around frozen Lac de Gras. Photo courtesy Rio Tinto
For all of the difficulties the extreme winter brings, it also presents opportunity. There are no roads beyond Yellowknife, which lies about 200 miles south of the kimberlites. In the deepest of winter, the lakes freeze hard enough to construct an ice highway that heavy trucks use to resupply the mines for the entire year – the difficulties and dangers the ice road truckers face have been well-documented.

The dangers of just being out in this unforgiving winter climate are well known, and the diamond mines have strict rules about employees venturing out in winter. No one can leave their work area without a buddy or go outside during a whiteout blizzard, because people can quickly become disoriented and die from exposure only a few yards away from safety.

“It can happen like that,” said one supervisor at Diavik, snapping his fingers. @chapter:34 @chapter:1 @chapter:34


# Publication Year: 1991
# Title: Treated Andamooka Matrix Opal
# Abstract: Matrix opal from Andamooka, in South Australia, is a precious opal-included porous rock that is commonly color enhanced (carbon impregnated) to imitate the highly prized black opal from Lightning Ridge in northern New South Wales, Australia. This material has been commercially available since the mid-1950s and is often referred to as “sugar treated." A basic sugar acid-carbonizing technique is used to carbonize, and thus darken, the cream-colored matrix of prepolished stones so that the play-of-color is more prominent. The carbon impregnator in treated Andamooka matrix opal can be readily identified with low-power magnification. @chapter:48 @chapter:0 @chapter:48


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Designer’s Award-Winning Jewelry Helps Reclaim Family History
# Abstract: “Jewelry design is a career that’s learned day by day,” says Veronica Eckert, GIA JDT. “It’s not only drawing beautifully, but creating a personality and style for your piece to communicate with the world.” Photo courtesy of Veronica Eckert

	Edgar Allen Poe, Jules Verne and Stephen King are not names that often pop up in conversations about jewelry design, but designer Veronica Eckert points to the literary icons as early catalysts for her creativity.

	“I read my father’s entire collection of science fiction books as a child,” says Eckert, a Mexican-American jewelry designer based in Los Angeles. “It had a big impact.”

	Eckert, a GIA JDT, is the owner of Veronica Eckert Studio and the recent grand prize winner of the Revere Academy’s 2016 Tahitian Pearl Jewelry Design Contest. Her winning design is the dreamy, space-inspired “Trip to Saturn” platinum ring, which features a 12-mm, high-luster black Tahitian pearl and blue sapphires, aquamarines and diamonds.

	“My pieces are almost storytellers,” Eckert says. “The inspiration for that ring came from my fascination with the universe, and the fact that Saturn was at its closest to Earth last year. I imagined the stars traveling along the shank of the ring and going around the pearl to represent Saturn’s rings.”

	She says that the experience of participating in the design competition elevated her artistic vision.

	“Winning a design award pushes you to become more creative and sharpen your skills and imagination,” she says. “Learning about pearls and working with them increased my love for nature and creativity.”

Veronica Eckert, GIA JDT, took top honors in the Revere Academy’s 2016 Tahitian Pearl Jewelry Design Contest with her platinum “Trip to Saturn” ring, which features a 12.5-mm natural, high-lustre black Tahitian pearl with green overtone. The ring, which includes .36 total carat weight of diamonds and .08 carats of sapphires and aquamarines, inspired Eckert to create an entire “Trip to Saturn” jewelry collection. Photo by Berlian Arts. Courtesy of Veronica Eckert

	The desire to create and communicate through jewelry ran through Eckert’s family for two prior generations. Her great-grandfather and grandfather owned a jewelry store in her hometown of Monterrey, Mexico. As a young girl, she carefully observed her grandfather, Eduardo Aguilar Herrera, as he interacted with customers in his shop. She noted the smile on his face when a customer was satisfied with a new piece of jewelry, and giggled in delight as she watched him use his old loupe to create the illusion of a “gigantic, magnified eye.”

	Eckert’s parents, a surgeon and a biologist, did not pursue the jewelry industry, and her grandfather passed away when she was young. The family store closed after his death, and though Eckert could no longer visit the store or learn from him, her desire to create was irrepressible.

	“I dedicated a good amount of time to working with my hands – drawing, creating toys, beading, disassembling and reassembling electronics,” she says. “It would sometimes get me in trouble when there was a ‘spare part’ missing from a piece of electronics, but that curiosity is what guides us to become makers.”

	Eckert studied design and worked as a graphic artist, and eventually art director, for an advertising and marketing agency. But, after immigrating to the United States and working for a design studio in Seattle in 2011, she decided to sign up for a beginner’s jewelry-making class at a small studio in the city. She instantly felt a spark of curiosity.

	“As soon as I had my first experience soldering, I felt the bond between the metal and me,” she says. “It was fascinating to see a sheet of metal and think, ‘How many things can I create with this?’”

	Eckert quickly enrolled in San Francisco’s Revere Academy of Jewelry Arts, where she completed two programs and earned recognition as a goldsmith. She improved her skills there, learning to “work in extreme detail.”

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	Eckert began to hear about the impact of CAD/CAM in the jewelry industry and wanted to know more. She discovered the Jewelry Design and Technology program at GIA, spoke with instructors and realized the JDT program was a perfect fit. Eckert jumped in, moving to Carlsbad for six months and enrolling in the On Campus program.

	“GIA opened new possibilities for my creations,” she says. “Not only did the CAD program help me create more elaborate and complex designs, but GIA helped me become further immersed in the jewelry design world, meet many people in the field … and ‘grow up’ as a professional in the jewelry industry.”

	Eckert says the instructors were “dedicated and professional,” and credits Kelly Borello, in particular, with serving as an advocate for her career, post-graduation.

	“She has been very helpful and kind – taking time to advise me of some modeling processes, discussing how to approach a company during a job search,” Eckert says.

	After working for a fine jewelry company in Southern California, Eckert found herself so busy designing for clients that she decided to go into business for herself. She opened Veronica Eckert Studio Jewelry in December 2016, in a small studio in Los Angeles’ jewelry district, and is enjoying being able to invest and focus more on design.

		Anything that awakens my senses inspires me.

		Veronica Eckert, GIA JDT

“Sometimes I’ll have an idea in my head and keep working on it until I’m ready to put it on paper. Other times, I pull out my sketching pad and just draw an idea even in the middle of the night," Eckert says. "I’ll give each of my pieces a personality and a name, and think about the story that might be behind that name in order to create it.”

Eckert cites art nouveau architecture, surrealist painters like Remedios Varo, and of course, science fiction, as sources of inspiration, but her ambitions are quite down to earth.

“My goal as a jewelry designer is simply to become a better designer every day,” she says.

To her delight, Eckert’s daughter, Itzel Montserrat, has followed her into the gem and jewelry industry.

Montserrat earned her GG diploma in 2014, and after working for Blue Nile in Seattle, moved to the Los Angeles suburb of Monrovia to work in quality assurance for designer Christian Tse. She also assists Eckert with buying, appraisal and gem identification.

Montserrat’s entry into the jewelry industry means that after a brief lapse, the mother-daughter duo can say that their family’s history runs four generations strong.

“My grandfather didn’t have a chance to see me become a jewelry designer, or my daughter become a gemologist,” Eckert says. “But his heritage and skills flow in our blood.” @chapter:20 @chapter:2 @chapter:20


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Ametrine Care and Cleaning
# Abstract: The best ametrines show distinct areas of orangy yellow and purple. These colors are featured in this graceful cut design. Photo by Lydia Dyer, © John Dyer & Co., gem courtesy John Dyer & Co.

Hardness and toughness
Gem and mineral hardness is measured on the Mohs scale. The numbers are based on the relative ease or difficulty with which one mineral can be scratched by another. But the Mohs scale is deceptive. The steps between the minerals are not evenly spaced. For example, diamond is only one number away, but it’s many times harder than gems in the corundum family.

Common substances like sand and dust are composed mostly of quartz, the mineral species that includes ametrine. So, while ametrine is a great gemstone for use in jewelry, it should be treated with the proper care to prevent scratching and other damage.

Like amethyst and citrine, ametrine rates a 7 on the Mohs scale and has good toughness, so it is suitable for all jewelry types. This includes rings as long as the wearer understands the limits of its hardness and follows proper precautions to prevent scratching.

	Ametrine’s hardness ranks a 7 on the Mohs hardness scale. Illustration by Peter Johnston, © GIA
Stability
Abrupt temperature changes can cause ametrine to fracture. Some ametrine colors can fade with prolonged exposure to intense light. Ametrine can also be damaged by hydrofluoric acid, ammonium fluoride, and alkaline solutions.

Cleaning
Ametrine can be safely cleaned with warm, soapy water. Ultrasonic cleaners are usually safe except in the rare instances where a stone is dyed or treated by fracture filling. Steam cleaning is not recommended, and ametrine should not be exposed to heat.

	With proper care, ametrine’s beauty will enhance all types of jewelry and provide years of wearing enjoyment. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA, courtesy Minerales y Metales del Oriente, Bolivia, SA. @chapter:27 @chapter:0 @chapter:27


# Publication Year: 2023
# Title: Zigzag Fingerprint in Sri Lankan Sapphire
# Abstract: The rectilinear zigzag-patterned fingerprint in this 3.21 ct blue sapphire shows beautiful vibrant colors, indicating a Sri Lankan origin. Photomicrograph by Yuxiao Li; field of view 4.45 mm.
The author recently examined a 3.21 ct oval mixed-cut blue sapphire. Chemical analysis and gemological observation of internal fissures suggested a Sri Lankan origin. Under fiber-optic illumination, the fingerprints showed rectilinear zigzag-patterned films with vibrant colors that resulted from thin-film interference (see above). The rectilinear structure of this fingerprint was caused by the natural healing process of a fracture oriented parallel to the c-axis.
These zigzag-patterned fingerprints often indicate a Sri Lankan origin, but they can also be found in sapphires from Myanmar and Madagascar. The undamaged rectilinear pattern could indicate that the stone is unheated. @chapter:19 @chapter:0 @chapter:19


# Publication Year: 1995
# Title: A Visual Guide to the Identification of Filled Diamonds
# Abstract: A microscope with various types of lighting is the most practical and reliable method to detect fracture filling in diamonds. All of the filled diamonds examined to date have shown flash effects in a variety of colors. Also seen in some stones are evidence of flow structure, trapped bubbles, incomplete filling at the surface, crackled texture, trapped bubbles, an apparent color to the filler, cloudy filled areas, and surface residue. This article is accompanied by a chart that illustrates the various features seen in filled diamonds, plus features observed in unfilled fractures with which they might be confused. @chapter:39 @chapter:1 @chapter:39


# Publication Year: 2021
# Title: Vaterite Found on a Strand of Freshwater Cultured Pearls
# Abstract: Figure 1. Single-strand freshwater bead cultured necklace measuring 10.33 × 10.18 mm to 13.36 × 12.72 mm. Photo by Sood Oil (Judy) Chia.

Recently, GIA’s New York laboratory received a single-strand necklace with 32 pearls for identification (figure 1). The pearls were white and near-round, ranging from 10.33 × 10.18 mm to 13.36 × 12.72 mm in size and weighing 81.50 grams total. Real-time microradiography (RTX) analysis revealed that all of them had a bead nucleus. Chemical analysis by EDXRF spectrometry showed a high manganese concentration and low strontium, indicating they formed in a freshwater environment. During examination of the strand, random white patches were observed on the surface of many of the pearls. These irregular patches appeared overgrown on the surface and crystalline-like (figure 2).

Figure 2. Irregular whitish patches were visible on the surface of many of the pearls. Photos by Sally Chan Shih.
X-ray fluorescence analysis revealed a strong yellowish green reaction around each pearl, while the irregular white surface patches showed a reddish orange reaction with moderate intensity (figure 3).

Figure 3. X-ray fluorescence analysis of the strand showed a yellowish green reaction along with a reddish orange reaction on the irregular white patches. Photos by Sally Chan Shih.
Additionally, Raman analysis of the nacreous surface and the irregular white patches revealed they consisted of two calcium carbonate polymorphs: aragonite and vaterite, respectively (figure 4). Aragonite peaks were observed at 701, 704, and 1085 cm–1; vaterite peaks were at 740, 750, 1075, and 1090 cm–1.

Figure 4. Raman analysis found aragonite peaks at 701, 704, and 1085 cm–1 and vaterite peaks at 740, 750, 1075, and 1090 cm–1.
Formation of the shells and pearls relies on the epithelial cells of the mollusk. Aragonite and calcite are the two most common calcium carbonate polymorphs found in pearls, while vaterite is the third most common and also the least stable form. Vaterite has only been found in freshwater pearls so far (Li Qiao et al., “Special vaterite found in freshwater lackluster pearls,” Crystal Growth & Design, Vol. 7, No. 2, 2007, pp. 275–279; Summer 2021 Gem News International, pp. 171–174). Although the reason why vaterite formed on the pearls’ surface is unknown, the defect is one of the most unusual formations seen, especially in an entire strand. @chapter:11 @chapter:4 @chapter:11


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Unveiling the Cat’s-Eye Effect in a 75 ct Colombian Emerald Pair
# Abstract: When Colombian emerald cutter Misael Angel Rodriguez was offered a large chunk of broken trapiche emerald in September 2012, he very nearly passed on the bid. The rough portion weighed nearly 370 ct and was covered in a black carbonaceous coating, with only a glimpse of green to suggest that it even contained emerald. Several other conocedores, or experts, had already declined to buy it, which added to Rodriguez’s concerns. Placing a bid on it was an expensive gamble: The piece was large and presumably mined at Muzo, Colombia’s historic emerald source. “But what secret does it hold?” Rodriguez wondered.

	Once cleaned, this large trapiche emerald portion from Muzo weighed more than 300 ct. The rough revealed two major sections that might be suitable for cutting. All photos courtesy of Misael Angel Rodriguez.
Emerald Mystery Revealed in Cutting
Emerald dealers are accustomed to speculation, because large pieces are inherently unknowable. Rodriguez’s dilemma was comparable to that of jadeite dealers in Myanmar (Burma), who often face similar anxieties when purchasing jadeite boulders. They are in effect betting on finding a valuable, deep color inside the stone—but not really knowing until they cut a window, or slice the boulder. For the sellers of such pieces there is also a gamble. More often than not, they too decline to cut windows into the rough for fear of losing weight, or perhaps cutting away the one valuable piece in an otherwise insignificant stone.

Rodriguez and wife Claudia Beltran Rubiano, both experienced emerald cutters, ultimately decided to take the gamble and purchase the rough. They cut one corner, and then another, attempting to judge the potential gem’s depth. They soon discovered that the chunk actually contained two portions of a six-ray trapiche emerald and concluded that two stones of similar size might be fashioned from it. They also noted a fine tube-like internal structure at one side of the rough, which is characteristic of the type of material that produces cat’s-eyes. As they further polished off the skin, they began to witness the unmistakable green of fine emerald.

“That is the riddle of emeralds in the rough,” Rodriguez explained. “Their splendor is often concealed.”

	Next, Rodriguez trimmed excess pieces and sawed through the rough.
He and his wife started to slowly remove the carbonaceous outer layer of the emerald, while removing small holes and pits in the material. Bearing in mind that trapiche emeralds often yield cat’s eyes, and having noticed the fine tubes that give rise to the phenomenon, they placed small, curved facets into the rough, hoping to coax out a cat’s-eye effect. They soon found the eye’s strongest orientation, which gave them further guidance on how both gems would have to be cut.

Both of the long cabochons began to take shape: Rodriguez, with his greater cutting experience, began fashioning what they considered the finer one. “But after each day of cutting and polishing, Claudia’s always looked better and finer than mine,” Rodriguez recalled.

	Two emeralds were then pre-formed to achieve a nearly matched weight and color.
Once polished, the pair of emeralds weighed 105 carats total, which Rodriguez believes was a record weight for a matched pair. But sacrifices in weight still had to be made because of the inclusions, bringing the pair down to about 75 carats total. Rodriguez noted that gems of such size and quality, in a matched pair, had never been seen to date in Colombia.

Shortly after the February 2013 Tucson gem show, GIA asked to see the stones, and they were sent to the Carlsbad laboratory for further examination.

	Two large matching cat’s-eye emeralds, ultimately weighing close to 75 carats total, emerged from the rough trapiche. Photo by Robert Weldon, GIA.
GIA Laboratory Examination
Both stones were received at GIA in the spring of 2013. Their gemological properties were typical of cat’s-eye emeralds examined in the past. We recorded a spot RI of 1.57, chrome lines in the red portion of the spectrum, and no reaction to ultraviolet light.

What was really interesting about them was the internal structure that gave rise to the cat’s-eye effect. The dense parallel growth tubes appeared somewhat transparent, quite unlike the needles or growth tubes that cause the chatoyancy in many other cat’s-eye specimens. As noted, this type of structure in emerald is often found in the individual pie-shaped sections of trapiche emeralds. However, only rarely is it dense enough to cut a strong cat’s-eye, as was the case for the large matched pair we saw.

In his 1981 book Emeralds and Other Beryls, noted beryl connoisseur John Sinkankas wrote that cat’s-eye emeralds are so rare as to be practically nonexistent in the market. Since the book’s publication three decades ago, several Colombian cat’s-eye emeralds have been reported, and they are slightly more prevalent on the international market today. This is partly because emerald cutters are now looking at rough material with an understanding of when rare cat’s-eye emerald might be revealed, and also because collectors are actively seeking out these stones for their rarity and beauty. @chapter:16 @chapter:0 @chapter:16


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Topaz History and Lore
# Abstract: The 97.45-carat Blaze Imperial Topaz is in the collection of the Field Museum of Natural History. - Courtesy "Gems and Gemstones: Timeless Natural Beauty of the Mineral World" by Grande & Augustyn, U of Chicago Press.

                      Most authorities agree that the name topaz comes from Topazios, the old Greek name for a small island in the Red Sea, now called Zabargad. (The island never produced topaz, but it was once a source of peridot, which was confused with topaz before the development of modern mineralogy.) Some scholars trace the origin back to Sanskrit (an ancient language of India) and the word topas or tapaz, meaning “fire.”

The ancient Greeks believed that topaz gave them strength. In Europe during the Renaissance (the period from the 1300s to the 1600s) people thought that topaz could break magic spells and dispel anger. For centuries, many people in India have believed that topaz worn above the heart assures long life, beauty, and intelligence.

The name for imperial topaz originated in nineteenth-century Russia. At the time, the Ural Mountains were topaz’s leading source, and the pink gemstone mined there was named to honor the Russian czar. Ownership of the gem was restricted to the royal family.

Today, topaz is one of the US birthstones for November. The other is citrine quartz. @chapter:30 @chapter:0 @chapter:30