# Publication Year: 2008
# Title: A History of Diamond Treatments
# Abstract: Although various forms of paints and coatings intended to alter the color of diamond have likely been in use for almost as long as diamonds have been valued as gems, the modern era of diamond treatment—featuring more permanent alterations to color through irradiation and high-pressure, high-temperature (HPHT) annealing, and improvements in apparent clarity with lead-based glass fillings—did not begin until the 20th century. Modern gemologists and diamantaires are faced with a broad spectrum of color and clarity treatments ranging from the simple to the highly sophisticated, and from the easily detected to the highly elusive. The history, characteristics, and identification of known diamond treatments are reviewed. @chapter:41 @chapter:1 @chapter:41


# Publication Year: 2018
# Title: Large Pinkish Orange CVD Synthetic Diamond
# Abstract: Figure 1. This CVD-grown diamond, weighing 5.01 ct and Fancy Intense pinkish orange in color, stands out among all CVD synthetics GIA has tested so far. Photo by Jianxing (Jae) Liao.

Natural diamonds with intense pink-orange color are very rare, particularly in large sizes. GIA’s New York lab recently tested a pinkish orange CVD synthetic diamond, submitted by Unique Lab Grown Diamond Inc. in New York, that showed some outstanding gemological features.

This square cut weighed 5.01 ct (9.45 × 9.10 × 6.05 mm) and was color graded as Fancy Intense pinkish orange (figure 1). The color was distributed evenly throughout. A few small feathers and pinpoints were observable under the microscope at about 20× magnification, and the clarity was equivalent to SI1. Infrared absorption spectroscopy revealed this was a type IIa diamond, with nitrogen concentration below the instrument’s detection limit. A clear and sharp peak detected at 3123 cm–1 is a well-known specific feature of CVD synthetic diamond. The absorption spectrum in the UV-Vis region indicated that the observed bodycolor was caused by a very strong and broad absorption band around 520 nm (figure 2). This band can be introduced to a CVD diamond during its growth. It creates a color effect similar to the one from the ~550 nm band in natural pink diamonds. There is no report of the ~520 nm band being introduced to a CVD synthetic diamond after its initial growth. In photoluminescence spectroscopy, clear emissions at 737 nm from SiV– and 503 nm from the H3 defect were recorded. In addition, strong emissions at 575 and 637 nm from NV centers were detected. As a result, this synthetic diamond showed strong orange-red fluorescence in DiamondView imaging. Unlike other large CVD-grown diamonds, this diamond’s fluorescence images hardly revealed the multiple growth layers responsible for its significant thickness. Instead, the multiple growth layers with subtle boundaries could only be detected in high-resolution cathodoluminescence (CL) images.

Figure 2. The UV-Vis spectrum of this CVD synthetic revealed that its intense pinkish orange bodycolor was caused by a strong and broad absorption band around 520 nm.
Based on all spectroscopic features, we believe that this CVD synthetic diamond was not treated by HPHT annealing after its growth for color improvement, though heating to a moderate temperature could not be entirely ruled out. The combination of size, color, and clarity made this the most remarkable CVD synthetic diamond GIA has tested so far. @chapter:9 @chapter:1 @chapter:9


# Publication Year: 2019
# Title: Moonstone Jewelry
# Abstract: Figure 1. Paula Crevoshay’s “Moon Dance” bracelet contains 121 moonstones totaling 133.19 carats and 495 sapphires totaling 38.61 carats, set in 18K gold. Photo by Kevin Schumacher.
Blue moonstone, an orthoclase species of the feldspar group, is composed of two feldspar minerals, albite and orthoclase, that stack in alternating layers. Adularescence, the optical phenomenon resulting from the scattering of light as it interacts with these two different feldspar layers, occurs below the stone’s surface. When the stone is moved, the glow produced by the scattered light appears to float like the moon in the sky. Rainbow moonstone, which shows flashes of multiple colors including blue, is also part of the feldspar group but falls under the labradorite species.

Figure 2. Erica Courtney’s moonstone pendant and earrings. The mandala flower cross pendant features 20 carats of moonstones with Paraíba-type tourmaline accents. The chain contains 3.02 carats of diamonds. The double-drop moonstone earrings also have Paraíba-type tourmaline accents. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA.
Exceptional blue and rainbow moonstone were both prevalent at this year’s Tucson shows, and top designers had fashioned beautiful pieces with them. Paula Crevoshay created a bracelet with 121 moonstones flanked by 495 tiny blue sapphires (figure 1) that was as flexible and soft as a piece of fabric, allowing it to artfully showcase the movement of the adularescent glow. Erica Courtney, winner of three 2019 AGTA Spectrum Awards, exhibited a stunning moonstone necklace and pair of earrings, both featuring African Paraíba-type tourmalines (figure 2). The intense adularescence of the moonstones in these jewelry pieces is truly captivating. @chapter:17 @chapter:0 @chapter:17


# Publication Year: 2013
# Title: CVD-Grown Synthetic Diamond with Aggregated Nitrogen Impurities
# Abstract: Figure 1. Unusual 0.94 ct yellow-brown CVD synthetic diamond. Photo by Robison McMurtry.

              Synthetic diamonds grown by the chemical vapor deposition (CVD) method have become a key topic in the jewelry industry over the past few years. These products, which can be grown at low pressures and moderately high temperatures (approximately 800–900°C), are seeing more widespread use in jewelry. CVD synthetics are almost always brown or colorless type IIa specimens with little to no FTIR-measurable nitrogen or boron impurities. A few of these synthetics have been doped with nitrogen or boron to produce rare type Ib or IIb colored samples.

Recently, an unusual 0.94 ct Fancy yellow-brown emerald cut (figure 1) was submitted to GIA for a synthetic diamond grading report. It contained a cloud of black needle-like inclusions occurring along a plane (figure 2) and showed weak green transmission with fiber-optic illumination. Under cross-polarized light, the synthetic diamond displayed a black and white mottled strain pattern, somewhat similar in appearance to the crosshatched “tatami” pattern usually seen in natural type IIa diamonds (figure 15, right). FTIR spectroscopy revealed that it was type IaA, with approximately 10 ppm of aggregated nitrogen atom pairs in the lattice (figure 16). DiamondView imaging showed red fluorescence and planar growth patterns that are common in CVD synthetic diamonds (figure 17). Photoluminescence spectroscopy detected silicon-vacancy defects introduced during the CVD growth process (not shown), and further examination of the FTIR spectrum revealed a very weak peak at 3123 cm–1 (again, see figure 3), confirming this was an as-grown CVD synthetic diamond (P.M. Martineau et al., “Identification of synthetic diamond grown using chemical vapor deposition [CVD],” Spring 2004 G&G, pp. 2–25).

	Figure 2. A cloud of needle-like inclusions was observed in the synthetic diamond (left, magnified 50×). The side view clearly showed that the cloud was confined to a plane (center; magnified 45×). With cross-polarized light, the mottled and crosshatched strain pattern was visible (right; magnified 15×). Photo by Troy Ardon.
This marked GIA’s first examination of a CVD synthetic diamond with aggregated nitrogen impurities. During HPHT treatment, nitrogen atoms typically start to aggregate as pairs at temperatures above 2000°C. Although some CVD synthetics are HPHT-treated to remove brown coloration, spectroscopic evidence indicates that this sample had not undergone such treatment. It is unclear how the nitrogen impurities came to be in their aggregated state. It is possible that a type IaA natural diamond was used as a seed crystal for multi-stage CVD growth and remains within the current gemstone, thereby producing the FTIR results. However, no clear evidence of this scenario was uncovered. More research is currently under way to understand this unusual CVD synthetic diamond with aggregated nitrogen impurities.

	Figure 3. FTIR spectroscopy revealed that the CVD synthetic diamond was type IaA with aggregated nitrogen atom pairs, the first CVD synthetic diamond GIA has seen with this configuration of nitrogen impurities. The 3123 cm–1 peak confirms this is an as-grown CVD diamond. @chapter:9 @chapter:1 @chapter:9


# Publication Year: 2010
# Title: Confocal Micro-Raman Spectroscopy: A Powerful Tool to Identify Natural and Synthetic Emeralds
# Abstract: More than 300 natural and synthetic emeralds from various sources were examined with confocal Raman spectroscopy. This method identifies different water types in the beryl channel sites, making it possible to determine whether an emerald is natural or synthetic. In addition, this approach can provide information regarding geographic origin or synthesis technique (flux or hydrothermal). @chapter:10 @chapter:0 @chapter:10


# Publication Year: 2017
# Title: HPHT Synthetic Diamond with Intense Green Color
# Abstract: Figure 1. This 0.42 ct green HPHT synthetic diamond displayed strong growth sectors that were observed without magnification. Photo by Jian Xin (Jae) Liao.

HPHT-grown synthetic diamonds are predominantly colorless, yellow, and blue, depending on the control of impurities during growth. Other colors are very rare. In this study, we report on an intensely colored green HPHT synthetic diamond identified in the New York laboratory.

This square-cut synthetic diamond, which weighed 0.42 ct and measured 4.42 × 4.34 mm with a depth of 2.59 mm, was graded as Fancy Deep green (figure 1). Initial observation revealed strong color zoning with narrow, colorless growth sectors on the pavilion that were visible without magnification. An abundance of small metallic inclusions observed under magnification (figure 2) caused the sample to exhibit magnetism. Magnetism is a common but not diagnostic feature in HPHT synthetic diamonds. Natural diamonds may also exhibit magnetism, though only in extremely rare cases (G.R. Rossman and J.L. Kirschvink, “Magnetic properties of gem-quality synthetic diamonds,” Fall 1984 G&G, pp. 163–166).

Figure 2. The green synthetic diamond displayed strong magnetism, caused by abundant metallic inclusions. Photo by Paul Johnson; field of view ~1.4 mm.
Upon further examination, the diamond was determined to be type IIb (containing the impurity boron), as seen from its mid-FTIR absorption spectrum (figure 3). The concentration of uncompensated boron in this diamond was 0.013 ± 0.003 ppma. This amount, though detectable, did not contribute to the green color. Many synthetic diamonds grown by New Diamond Technology (NDT) in Russia reportedly also contain this level of boron impurity, as it is incorporated during the growth process (B. Deljanin et al., “NDT breaking the 10 carat barrier,” Contributions to Gemology, No. 15, 2015). DiamondView imaging revealed the typical hourglass growth structure of HPHT synthetic diamonds (figure 4), along with extremely strong phosphorescence for which the presence of boron might be responsible. Noted in the FTIR spectrum was an absorption feature related to nitrogen impurity, a relatively strong peak at 1332 cm–1 caused by N+. It is unusual to see such features in today’s synthetic diamonds. A UV-Vis-NIR absorption spectrum showed strong nickel-related absorption, with a band observed at ~685 nm (figure 5). This center, due to a Ni+ interstitial vacancy, creates a “transparent” window at approximately 555–585 nm, resulting in an observed green color. This diamond was most likely HPHT treated post-growth to activate the Ni+ and cause this intense absorption. It is very rare to see HPHT synthetic diamond with an intense green color attributed to a nickel-related impurity.

Figure 3. The green synthetic diamond’s mid-FTIR spectrum, which determined
that the material was type IIb, showed an uncompensated boron concentration at
~0.013 ppma.

Figure 4. An oriented DiamondView image (left) and 633 and 785 nm PL maps (right) show the SiV– and Ni+ defects confined to the {111} growth sectors. Images by Paul Johnson.

Figure 5. The HPHT synthetic diamond’s UV-Vis-NIR spectrum displayed a very intense
Ni-related absorption.
In addition to boron and nickel, this synthetic diamond also contained the SiV– impurity in its crystal lattice. Recent studies have shown that while this impurity is common in CVD-grown diamonds, it may also be observed in HPHT-grown diamonds (U.F.S. D’Haenens-Johansson et al., “Near-colorless HPHT synthetic diamonds from AOTC Group,” Spring 2014 G&G, pp. 30–45). The distribution of Si and Ni impurities were mapped using Raman mapping techniques, and the results proved consistent with previous studies of near- colorless HPHT-grown diamonds also observed in the trade (P. Johnson et al., “Discovery and distribution of the [Si-V]- defect in HPHT-grown gem-quality diamonds,” 2015 GSA Annual Meeting, paper No. 300-12), with both the Ni+ and SiV– confined to the {111} growth sectors. Typically observed in HPHT-grown diamonds, these {111} sectors are the most developed and dominate the diamond crystal’s morphology. The SiV– center does not contribute to the color of these synthetic diamonds, and it is either intentionally or unintentionally incorporated during crystal growth (again, see figure 4).

These spectroscopic and gemological features, with the exception of the green color resulting from nickel, were consistent with typical HPHT synthetic diamond. This is the first instance in which nickel has been reported to contribute to the deep green color of a synthetic diamond. This finding could indicate a new development in growth technology and a new material making its way into the diamond trade. This example was submitted as an undisclosed synthetic diamond and was subsequently issued an identification report.

Developments in synthetic diamond growth technologies (both CVD and HPHT) continue to emphasize the need for careful observation and testing techniques to identify the new types of materials encountered in the gem trade today. @chapter:9 @chapter:1 @chapter:9


# Publication Year: 1988
# Title: Spring 1988 Gem News International
# Abstract: Tucson ‘88
            Beryl: Theme Mineral; Many Fine Specimens
            Carvings: Gemstone Carving in Full Swing
            Charoite: Rough from USSR
            Chrysoberyl: Small Alexandrites; Cat’s-Eye from Zimbabwe
            Corundum: “Hot Pink” Sapphires and Star Sapphires
            Garnet: Fine Large Tsavorites
            Scapolite: Translucent Pink Cat’s-Eyes
            Sillimanite: Gem-Quality from Sri Lanka
            Synthetics, Imitations, Treatments: Many Varieties
            Tourmaline: Faceted Bi-Color from Nigeria
            Zircon: Heat-Treated Blue from Kampuchea (Cambodia)
Colored Stones
            Inclusions Identified in New Brazilian Alexandrites
Synthetics
            Synthetic Diamond Thin Films
            Synthetic Red Chrysoberyl

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:0 @chapter:0 @chapter:0


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Winter 1994 G&G Book Reviews
# Abstract: “Humboldt's Travels in Siberia (1837-1842): The Gemstones”
By Gustav Rose, Transl. by John Sinkankas, ed. by George M. Sinkankas, 80 pp., illus.,
Geoscience Press, Phoenix, AZ, 1994. US$25.00

“Copper Art Jewelry‑A Different Lustre”
By Matthew L. Burrkholz and Linda Lichtenberg Kaplan, 160 pp., illus., Schiffer Publishing, 1992. US$49.95

“Jewelry & Gems: The Buying Guide, 3rd Ed.”
By Antoinette L. Matlins and A. C. Bonanno, 262 pp., illus., Gemstone Press, Woodstock, VT,
1993. US$23.95 hard cover, $16.95 soft cover

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:31 @chapter:2 @chapter:31


# Publication Year: 1994
# Title: An Update on Filled Diamonds: Identification and Durability
# Abstract: The increasing numbers of fracture-filled diamonds present a major challenge to the diamond industry, especially with regard to detection and durability of the treatment in routine jewelry manufacturing and wear. This report focuses on recent products from Yehuda/Diascience, Koss & Schecter Diamonds (Genesis II), and Clarity Enhanced Diamond House (a subsidiary of Goldman Oved Diamond Co.). Like the Yehuda treatment, the latter two processes were found to be effective in improving the appearance of most of the samples examined for this study. Treated diamonds from all three firms were damaged by direct heating and by repolishing facets intersected by filled breaks. Some stones were adversely affected by some standard cleaning procedures and wear conditions. Although the lead-based glass filling materials may be detected by X-radiography and EDXRF spectroscopy, as well as by certain internal features, we found flash effects to be the most distinctive characteristic of fracture filling—observed in all the treated diamonds examined from all three firms. @chapter:41 @chapter:1 @chapter:41


# Publication Year: 2023
# Title: Exceptionally Rare Pearls from ECIJA
# Abstract: Figure 1. Left: The mother shell (Mercenaria mercenaria) and an 18K gold ring featuring a 14.43 × 14.63 mm lilac quahog pearl. Right: A rare collection of round quahog pearls ranging from 5.65 to 12.33 mm in diameter and in colors from white and beige to deep purple and tan. Photos by Robert Weldon; courtesy of ECIJA.
At the GJX show, ECIJA (Santa Barbara, California) displayed a variety of natural, wild, nacreous, and non-nacreous pearls, including conch, oyster, scallop, abalone, and quahog pearls. Only 0.2% of all pearls in the current market are natural (S. Karampelas et al., “Raman spectroscopy of natural and cultured pearls and pearl producing mollusc shells,” Journal of Raman Spectroscopy, Vol. 51, No. 9, 2019, pp. 1813–1821), and the authors found the non-nacreous collection especially notable.
ECIJA owner Aylene Norris and her husband, Jeremy Norris (Oasis Pearl), have been sourcing for 34 years and specialize in natural pearls. For the first time in Tucson, ECIJA displayed a collection of round quahog pearls (figure 1). Quahog pearls are produced in the bivalve mollusk Mercenaria mercenaria (figure 1, left), a type of saltwater clam native to the Atlantic Ocean. These non-nacreous pearls consist mainly of fibrous aragonite and organic matter. They are often not perfectly spherical but form irregular shapes such as button or baroque, making this set of round quahog pearls extremely rare (figure 1, right). Moreover, they exhibited an attractive and strong porcelaneous surface with sizes ranging from 5.65 to 12.33 mm in diameter. Quahog pearls are known for their unique range of colors, including white, beige, pink, lavender, purple, brown, and black. These 21 quahog pearls showed a wide color range, from white and beige to deep purple and tan (figure 1, right). According to Jeremy, lilac and deep purple are the most desirable and command the highest price. The color of a quahog pearl is determined by various factors, including the clam species and environmental and geochemical conditions.

Figure 2. This non-nacreous pearl weighing 16.44 ct and measuring 14.50 × 14.36 × 11.95 mm is reportedly from a Spondylus calcifer/limbatus mollusk from the Sea of Cortez in Baja California. Photo by Robert Weldon; courtesy of ECIJA.
Another rarity on display was a large (16.44 ct, 14.50 × 14.36 × 11.95 mm) deep purple, button-shaped non-nacreous pearl showing an obvious flame structure at its surface (figure 2). This pearl formed from one of the many Spondylus species, also known as “thorny” or “spiny” oysters, which are harvested on the western coast of the Americas as Spondylus princeps and Spondylus calcifer/limbatus. Reportedly from calcifer/limbatus from the Sea of Cortez in Baja California, the pearl’s large size, attractive purple color, and strong flame structure set its value. Previously, GIA has reported that flame structure is usually caused by subsurface to surface-reaching acicular inclusions (Fall 2016 Lab Notes, pp 303–304). Although several Spondylus pearls have been reported in G&G (Summer 2016 Micro-World, pp. 202–203; Fall 2016 Lab Notes, pp. 303–304), this is one of the largest and finest examples.
ECIJA also featured other nacreous and non-nacreous pearls for designers and buyers, including conch, scallop, and abalone pearls. Each of these species exhibits unique shapes and colors. Conch pearls are typically oval in shape and exhibit white, beige, brown, yellow, orange, pink, and red colors. They range in size from 1 mm to over 20 mm. Scallop pearls from Nodipecten nodosus, also known as “Lion’s Paw” or “Mano de Leon,” form button, oval, and baroque shapes that range from white and brown to rare purple or maroon colors. These exhibit beautiful reflective mosaic-like patterns on their surface. Abalone typically produce conical or baroque-shaped pearls exhibiting a combination of vibrant colors and a mirror-like luster. Symmetrical abalone pearls, especially in large sizes, are very rare.
While GIA has developed seven value factors to evaluate the quality of nacreous pearls (size, shape, color, luster, surface, nacre, and matching; see J.W.Y. Ho and S.C. Shih, “Pearl classification: The GIA 7 Pearl Value Factors,” Summer 2021 G&G, pp. 135–137 and accompanying wall chart), it is difficult to set the value for non-nacreous pearls due to their rarity and individual characteristics. In addition, demand dictates the value and price of rare pearls. An increasing demand for conch pearls has attracted buyers from all around the world. Jeremy indicated that conch pearls are especially popular in the European, U.S., and Asian markets. Deep pink to red pearls exhibiting a strong flame pattern are the most desirable and have doubled in value over the last 10 years, whereas pastel colors continue to be a more affordable solution for designers and collectors alike. @chapter:11 @chapter:4 @chapter:11


# Publication Year: 2023
# Title: The history of gemstones in Chanthaburi_23
# Abstract: In around the year 2520, Uncle Sammueng Kaeo Waen, a gem trader in Chanthaburi Province, pioneered thetechnique of heat treatment for gemstones. This innovation removed cloudiness from the gems, enhanced their color, and successfully treated sapphires imported from abroad to achieve vibrant hues. This breakthrough significantly elevated Chanthaburi's reputation in the global gemstone industry. It became renowned worldwide as a center for gemstones due to its ability to improve the quality of locally sourced gems through heat treatment, marking a pivotal moment in the history of gemstone refinement. @chapter:40 @chapter:2 @chapter:40


# Publication Year: 2013
# Title: Purple Jadeite Rock
# Abstract: Figure 1. This 13.60 mm mottled purple bead consists primarily of jadeite and quartz. Photo by Robison McMurtry.

              The Carlsbad laboratory recently took in a semi-translucent mottled purple bead for identification. Under microscopic examination, the material displayed an aggregate structure composed of fibrous lavender grains with a brownish white component (figure 1). Reddish orange minerals and small needle-like brown crystals were also observed. A spot RI reading of 1.55 was obtained on most of the stone, with a few places giving a reading of 1.66. The bead had a hydrostatic SG of 2.99 and was inert to both long- and short-wave UV radiation.

Basic gemological testing was inconclusive, but Raman spectroscopy performed on the various components of the stone confirmed the lavender and white portions were a mixture of jadeite and quartz, while the reddish orange portions were cinnabar. Additional spots on the scattered needle-like inclusions matched aegerine, a sodic-ferric clinopyroxene (figure 2). In addition to Raman testing, an infrared (FTIR) spectrum was collected to confirm the stone was not polymer-impregnated (E. Fritsch et al., “Identification of bleached and polymer-impregnated jadeite,” Fall 1992 G&G, pp. 176–187; Spring 1994 Lab Notes, p. 43).

	Figure 2. Upon closer examination, the jadeite rock also contains reddish orange cinnabar and brown aegerine crystals. Photomicrograph by Nathan Renfro; magnified 30×.
Purple rock containing jadeite and quartz has been reported in the Bursa region of western Turkey (M. Hatipoǧlu et al., “Gem-quality Turkish purple jade: Geological and mineralogical characteristics,” Journal of African Earth Sciences, Vol. 63, 2012, pp. 48–61). To date, the composition of this material is unique to the area. It occurs as a metamorphic product in the contact zone between a large blueschist belt and a granodiorite stock. While neither mercury nor cinnabar (a mercury sulfide) is mentioned in the literature on purple jadeite rock, mercury mining in western Turkey has been reported (M. Yildiz and E.H. Bailey, “Mercury deposits in Turkey,” U.S. Geological Survey Bulletin 1456, 1978).

The presence of mercury deposits in the region makes it highly likely that cinnabar or other mercury-bearing minerals would occur in the purple jadeite rock, consistent with a Turkish origin, though the origin of this sample has not been confirmed. Because jadeite and aegerine are both sodic pyroxenes, their occurrence together is understandable.

Purplish jadeite rock is being used in the jewelry trade and fashioned into beads, cabochons, and carvings. @chapter:12 @chapter:0 @chapter:12


# Publication Year: 2022
# Title: A Non-Nacreous Pearl Reportedly from Telescopium telescopium
# Abstract: Figure 1. The 1.72 ct yellowish brown and black non-nacreous (porcelaneous) pearl with Telescopium telescopium shells provided by the client. The intact shell is approximately 70 × 35 mm and the sawn shell is approximately 84 × 41 mm. Inset: An enlarged image of the pearl. Photos by Lhapsin Nillapat and Nuttapol Kitdee.
GIA’s Bangkok laboratory recently examined a yellowish brown and black non-nacreous button-shape pearl weighing 1.72 ct and measuring 6.64 × 6.53 × 5.07 mm. The pearl exhibited an attractive porcelain-like luster.
The client informed GIA that the pearl was found in a Telescopium telescopium shell. This edible snail (N. George et al., “DNA barcoding of gastropod Telescopium telescopium (Linnaeus, 1758) found at the Karachi coast, Pakistan,” Journal of Animal and Plant Sciences, Vol. 31, No. 5, 2021, pp. 1530–1536) was retrieved from an abandoned shrimp pond near a mangrove forest in Krabi, Thailand. The story of the pearl’s discovery was widely publicized in the local media. Though the client was unable to submit the shell from which the pearl was extracted, they provided us with samples of the same type of shell for further study (figure 1).

Figure 2. A: Obvious long cracks traversing the pearl’s darker side; field of view 7.20 mm. B: Intersecting flame structure on the pearl; field of view 2.40 mm. C: Intersecting flame structure on a cross section of the shell; field of view 4.80 mm. D: Banding and flame structure on a cut area of shell; field of view 4.80 mm. Photos by Ravenya Atchalak and Kwanreun Lawanwong.
Observation through a 10× loupe and a microscope revealed long cracks traversing the darker side of the pearl (figure 2A). No polishing lines or evidence of surface or color modification were observed, indicating that the shape and color were natural. The pearl and shells exhibited flame structures similar to those routinely observed in pearls such as those from the horse conch (Summer 2018 Lab Notes, pp. 211–212). Intersecting and overlapping flame structures typically observed in pearls from the Cassis genus (Fall 2012 Lab Notes, pp. 211–212) were also detected on the pearl (figure 2B) and shells (figure 2C). However, the banded structure observed on the cut shells (figure 2D) was not visible on the pearl, additional evidence that the client’s item was a pearl and not an imitation fashioned from shell.

Figure 3. Real-time microradiography revealed growth arcs close to the center and surface-reaching cracks (red arrow). Image by Ravenya Atchalak.

Figure 4. Raman spectra of the pearl and a shell obtained using a 514 nm argon ion laser revealed peaks related to the vibration modes of aragonite at 703, 1085, and 1464 cm–1 (obscured by stacking); polyenic-related peaks at 1015, 1120, 1296, and 1493 cm–1; and an additional peak at 1175 cm–1 that is also likely related to polyene. Spectra are offset vertically for clarity.
Real-time microradiography confirmed a natural whole pearl, as growth arcs close to the center and surface-reaching cracks were revealed (figure 3). As expected, energy-dispersive X-ray fluorescence analysis detected calcium as a major component in the pearl and shells, while manganese levels of less than 15 ppm and strontium levels ranging from 1005 to 2675 ppm verified a saltwater formation environment. The pearl’s natural color was substantiated using additional advanced spectroscopic methods. Raman spectra collected using a 514 nm argon ion laser on the pearl and shells (figure 4) revealed peaks related to the vibration modes of aragonite at 703, 1085, and 1464 cm–1; polyenic-related peaks at 1017, 1105–1120, 1297, and 1490–1500 cm–1 (S. Karampelas et al., “Polyacetylenic pigments found in pearls and corals,” 30th International Gemmological Conference, Moscow, 2007; L. Bergamonti et al., “The nature of the pigments in corals and pearls: A contribution from Raman spectroscopy,” Spectroscopy Letters, Vol. 44, No. 7-8, 2011, pp. 453–458); and an additional peak at 1175 cm–1 that is also likely related to polyene.
Surface observations and data collected from the pearl and shells using analytical methods appeared to support the claim that the pearl formed in this mollusk species. However, this can only be confirmed by conducting DNA barcoding analysis, which is a destructive test. This report adds to the growing list of natural pearls found in edible oysters and snails described in the literature (e.g., Winter 1995 Gem News, pp. 280–281; K. Scarratt et al., “A note on a pearl attached to the interior of Crassostrea virginica (Gmelin, 1791) (an edible oyster, common names, American or Eastern oyster),” Journal of Gemmology, Vol. 30, No. 1-2, 2006, pp. 43–50; Fall 2019 Gem News International, pp. 439–440; Fall 2020 Lab Notes, pp. 420–422; Summer 2021 Lab Notes, pp. 152–153). However, this is the first time a natural pearl has reportedly been discovered in a Telescopium species. Its unique appearance and characteristics provided a rare opportunity for GIA gemologists to examine and record data from a natural pearl originating from this marine snail. @chapter:11 @chapter:4 @chapter:11


# Publication Year: 2023
# Title: The Status and Changes in the Gemstone Market in Japan Post-COVID.
# Abstract: Jewelry products are high-value commodities that are often impacted by economic conditions. During the COVID-19 pandemic, restrictions on leaving homes led to a general decrease in consumer spending. Events, including weddings, were either canceled or postponed. Additionally, spending by foreign tourists visiting Japan, a significant buyer group for jewelry products, declined. Consequently, in 2020, the Japanese jewelry market, which had been relatively stable compared to 2019, experienced a significant decrease in sales.

In 2021, although there were expectations of an increase in weddings, the uncertain course of the COVID-19 pandemic led to a continued decrease in wedding ceremonies, affecting the jewelry market negatively. However, post-COVID spending rebounded, resulting in a 17.4% increase in jewelry sales in 2021, reaching 9.6 trillion yen (approximately 2.7 trillion baht).

It is observed that the average unit price of wedding rings and engagement rings increased due to changes in buyer preferences. Some opted for larger diamonds for engagement rings, while others chose various colored gemstones. According to Teikoku Data Bank, the average price of wedding rings increased from 250,000 yen (approximately 71,000 baht) per set in 2019 to 270,000 yen (77,000 baht) in 2021.

However, due to the rising prices of diamonds for engagement rings and materials for ring settings, some buyers had to choose smaller diamonds. Currently, the Japanese market is divided into two segments: high-priced products and lower-priced products, while mid-range products remain relatively unchanged.

In 2022, the Yano Research Institute Ltd. estimated that the Japanese jewelry market would reach 1.1 trillion yen (3.2 trillion baht), with a 4.1% increase from the previous year. Despite the seventh wave of COVID-19 in August 2022, as there were no strict lockdowns or restrictions on events and activities, consumer lifestyles began returning to normal, leading to a recovery in spending.

The ongoing Russia-Ukraine conflict increased the costs of famous jewelry brands, necessitating price increases. Overall, the sales value of jewelry products increased. The market is expected to expand further in 2023, reaching approximately 1.54 trillion yen (5.3 trillion baht), especially among consumers with high income and savings, who are eager to resume spending @chapter:32 @chapter:3 @chapter:32


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Women of GIA: A Portrait of Three Innovators
# Abstract: Since Robert and Beatrice Shipley formed GIA in 1931, the Institute has relied on the commitment and drive of its employees: No resource has enriched the Institute more than the men and women who walk its halls.

When GIA began, however, few could have anticipated the mark women would make on its future. According to the 1930 U.S. Census, only 22% of American women over the age of 10 worked outside the home. Of those, more than one-third were employed in “domestic and personal service.” Even during the Great Depression, women were not expected to pursue employment in professional positions, or to stay in the workforce once married.

Bucking such trends since its beginnings, GIA has always welcomed and encouraged the contributions of women to advance gemology, whether in the lab, in business operations, or in publishing. In this way, the Institute has been ahead of the curve in cultivating the trailblazing aspirations and achievements of women.

Here we honor three women whose contributions ultimately changed the course of GIA’s history.

	Beatrice Shipley: The “Backbone” of GIA

	Beatrice Shipley (1888-1973); photo © GIA.
Robert Shipley may have ignited the spark that created GIA, but his dream could never have survived its first few years without the emotional, financial, and managerial support of his wife and business partner, Beatrice Shipley. Their chance meeting in 1928 at the Louvre in Paris led to a 43-year marriage and a revolutionary change in the field of gemology. Her background in management, education, and administration, as well as her fiscal acumen, helped the Institute get through the Depression years while her husband traveled around North America to spread interest in GIA’s programs. An employee who worked during those difficult years said that Beatrice Shipley was “the backbone, the one that kept GIA going and made it a success.”

Beatrice Woodell Bell, a divorcée who was no stranger to hardship or practicality, worked as an administrator for the Episcopal Church and as dean of the exclusive Marlborough School for Girls in Los Angeles. Upon her marriage to Robert Shipley in 1930, she ran a small art gallery while her new husband developed his plans for a comprehensive gemological training program. Initially skeptical of this endeavor, she nonetheless threw her entire support behind her husband, closing her art gallery in 1932 to manage GIA’s day-to-day affairs.

Working under the name “B.W. Bell” to disguise both her female identity and her connection to Robert Shipley, she implemented standards, protocols, and budgets, while creating and maintaining a professional business environment. During lean years, she kept payroll running and morale high, yet was never afraid to do the most basic tasks, even assembling and stapling course materials before they were mailed to students.

In addition to her office work, she gave speeches to women’s groups on gems and jewelry. In one such presentation to the mothers of Hollywood stars such as Rosalind Russell, Gary Cooper, and Cesar Romero, called “Gems & Personalities,” Mrs. Shipley explained the properties of each gemstone and, based on physical appearance, paired each celebrity mother with a flattering gemstone. Talks such as these brought GIA to a mainstream audience, attracting ever more attention to the Institute’s gemological work.

Largely due to the Shipleys’ efforts to establish a sister organization as a professional guild for jewelers, the American Gem Society (AGS) was established in 1934 with Mrs. Shipley serving as its chief administrator.

Beatrice Shipley retired from both GIA and AGS in 1943, eventually serving as president of the Los Angeles Girl Scout Council. Her devotion to the advancement of gemology never wavered, however, and she remained an advisor to her husband on Institute matters throughout her life. After her death in 1973, she was lauded throughout the gemological industry as a pioneer in the field, recognition that was hard-earned and well deserved.

	Eunice Robinson Miles: “Mother GIA”

	Eunice Miles (1917-1997); photo © GIA.
Thanks to her grandmother’s gemstone and mineral collection, Eunice Miles (née Robinson) developed a passion for gems as a child. It was a natural progression for her to pursue a degree and career in the field of gemology. In 1953, Miles made history as the first female gemologist at GIA’s laboratory. Her time at the Institute yielded groundbreaking research and dynamic lectures that influenced students and colleagues alike, earning her the nickname “Mother GIA” from no less than Richard Liddicoat.

The only female student in her classes at MIT, Miles earned a Certified Gemologist (C.G.) diploma from GIA in 1944. She lectured extensively on gemological topics, even appearing on television, before joining the lab in New York, where she remained for 15 years. While Miles quickly earned the respect of her co-workers when they saw her abilities in action, dealers and other members of the trade proved more challenging. She was mistaken for the lab’s receptionist, and was at one point told, “You are a woman! What can a woman know about diamonds?”

A great deal, it seems. Miles later pioneered research into diamond-coating techniques and identification. Her work was recognized by the U.S. Department of Mines, and was ultimately used by the FBI to apprehend a dealer in fraudulently coated diamonds. Her initials on diamond grading reports upheld the Institute’s reputation for excellence.

In addition to her work in the lab, Miles served the Institute as a lecturer, instructor, and career counselor, creating rapport with students and building relationships that lasted decades. Upon her retirement, she became GIA’s official historian, a position she held until her death in 1997.

By the time of her retirement, Eunice Miles’ influence on the field of gemology was widely recognized. She was the recipient of numerous awards, including an Honorary Fellowship from the Gemmological Association of Great Britain, the Hall of Fame Award from the Women’s Jewelry Association, and the International Society of Appraisers Gems and Jewelry Industry Service Award. In 1986, the Association of Women Gemologists named their Lifetime Achievement Award after Miles, the inaugural recipient. Her gemological work still influences students today, both in the field of research and through the GIA scholarship established in her name, awarded to Institute students annually since 1989.

	Alice Keller: “Stalwart Guardian of G&G”

	Alice Keller; photo by Eric Welch, © GIA.
Readers of today’s Gems & Gemology can see the influence of Alice Keller on every page.

Part of Robert Shipley’s vision for enhancing GIA’s reach and impact was a professional journal. G&G was established in January 1934 as a repository of gemological research for both gemologists and the retail jewel industry. From 1934 to 1980, G&G operated under the guidance of two editors-in-chiefs: Robert Shipley and Richard Liddicoat. Over the decades, the journal kept the same look and format it had at its inception. The publication was 5.5 x 8.5 inches, printed primarily in black and white with few photos. G&G published groundbreaking research and content, but with a modest appearance and limited readership, the journal needed an overhaul to get the attention of the gemological community at large.

In 1980, in anticipation of the Institute’s 50th anniversary, Liddicoat picked Alice Keller, an editor with a decade of experience in professional journals, to assume the position of managing editor and to overhaul GIA’s flagship publication. Under Keller’s leadership, G&G changed to an 8.5 x 11 inch, full-color publication. She established the peer-review system and cultivated an editorial review board that included some of the world’s most prominent gemologists and researchers.

Her efforts culminated in widely read, award-winning articles, and greater attention to gemology as a science. G&G itself won 34 awards under Keller’s leadership. She also oversaw the publication of the three-edition Gems & Gemology in Review series, which reprinted decades of articles on synthetic, treated, and colored diamonds, respectively, in book form.

After 22 years of service, she became editor-in-chief of G&G in 2002, continuing to move the journal into the electronic age with the same level of excellence and attention to detail she devoted to the print version. In addition to her editorial duties, she co-chaired GIA’s International Gemological Symposiums in 1999, 2006 and 2011. She was called the “stalwart guardian of G&G” by GIA’s then-CEO in 2010.

One of the Institute’s Staff of the Year recipients in 1991, Keller earned many accolades outside of GIA for her work, including an Excellence in Publishing award from the Women’s Jewelry Association and an Honorary Lifetime Membership from the American Gem Trade Association, both in 1998. She received GIA’s highest honor, the Richard T. Liddicoat Award for Distinguished Service, in 2003. She retired in 2011 but remains G&G’s editor-in-chief emeritus.

Beatrice Shipley, Eunice Miles and Alice Keller epitomized the ideals set forth by GIA, but they are by no means unique in the Institute. These three women changed the course of GIA, extending its global reach and setting the stage for the thousands of other women—and men—who have come through its doors as both employees and students. In the manner of Shipley, Miles, and Keller, the people of GIA continue to change the face of gemology, in 14 countries around the world, well into the 21st century. @chapter:47 @chapter:2 @chapter:47


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Conversation with Jewelry Designer Martin Katz
# Abstract: Martin Katz. © Martin Katz, Ltd.

	From micro-pave to mega-watt glam, jeweler Martin Katz dazzles Hollywood stars and titans of industry alike. The award-winning designer shares his love of flying, why puka shells matter, and the blue diamond he’ll never forget.

The Martin Katz Microband ring consists of collection quality diamonds (D, E & F) and vibrant colored stones such as sapphire, topaz and tsavorite garnet; set in 18kt white, yellow, antiqued or rose gold.  © Martin Katz, Ltd.

Q: Essentially, you are pretty quiet about dressing actresses during awards season. Yet, you are the #1 choice for many. Why do you think that is?

	A: We’ve developed a relationship with both celebrities and stylists so have not missed a red carpet in 24 years.

	You know, how we got on to the red carpet was quite by accident. A client of mine who was also an actress called. “My co-star loves your jewelry and when I told her I knew you she said, “’Get him down to the set!’”

	So I get there and introduce myself, “Hi I’m Martin Katz.” And she says “Hi, I’m Sharon Stone.” She fell in love with a few pieces saying she’d let me know the next day what she wants. The next day my client called, “Sharon wants to borrow the choker and the earrings for the premier of her new film ‘Basic Instinct’.” I said, “I guess I misunderstood, I thought she wanted to buy them. I’m very sorry please apologize to her, but I don’t loan jewelry.” Of course, my client was incredulous. I said, “Unless she’s wearing a sandwich board with my name on it, no one will know the jewels came from me. God forbid she loses something. I have everything to lose and nothing to gain, so please express my apologies.”

	Later, I get a phone call from the head of Paramount – who happened to be my client’s husband - asking why I wouldn’t loan Sharon jewelry. I explained and he said, “She insists on wearing your jewelry, so I’m in a bit of a bind. I have to ask if you’ll do it as a favor to me.” Of course, I couldn’t say no to a client, but I asked for a favor in return. “Will she be willing to wear my jewelry for the press shoots? Then at least I’ll get a byline.”

Jeanne Tripplehorn, Michael Douglas, Sharon Stone on the Red Carpet at the premier of Basic Instinct in 1992. © Martin Katz, Ltd.

	Of course it was a huge hit, she was on every cover in the world and I was right by her side giving her jewelry. Then the phones rang off the hook.

Q: Tell us your favorite “saved-the-day” red carpet story! There’s always one…

	A: One year Salma Hayek and I worked out what she was going to wear to the Oscars about three weeks ahead. It was the longest lead-time I ever had. She was going to wear beautiful blue diamonds, something I was saving for an important event.

Q: What’s the usual lead-time?

	A: Three days or less. Ten years ago, eight years ago it was a few weeks, but now it’s literally two days or one day before.

	Well, now it’s the day of the Oscars, and I get a frantic call from the stylist that they’ve busted the zipper on Salma’s dress and she needs an entire wardrobe change. Two hours before she’s supposed to leave. I gathered up all new selections, ran up to their house and was literally securing the clasps as she was getting into the limo!

	Another year Minnie Driver had a beautiful ruby bead bracelet on with a 30 ct. cabochon emerald – it had about ten strands of beads so it was about 2 inches wide. She managed to snag it on a chair and the beads went flying in the middle of the show. I learned later that she was on all fours and so was director James Cameron picking up the beads. They got ‘em all!

Q: How old were you when a diamond first caught your eye?

	A: Ten. I was in Chicago with my mother in a jewelry store sitting around bored and my sister said, “Look at that! It’s a four carat diamond!” I do remember staring into that stone and being mesmerized, but I couldn’t wrap my head around what “carat” meant. Fast forward, I’m in college trying to think of an idea for something I could sell all these students. When I told my roommate, he said, “My brother sells puka shells, and turquoise in Colorado, we could probably get him to send us some.”

Sapphire Teardrop Briolette and Diamond Earrings Briolette teardrop shape sapphires, 30.37 carats; 2 bullet shape diamonds of 1.43 carats surrounded by a border of 80 round diamonds with 4 diamond beads encircled by 152 blue sapphires. © Martin Katz, Ltd.

Q: Ok, puka shells???

	A: We would put them in a shoebox and I’d find a willing accomplice who’d invite all her girlfriends in the dorm and I’d sell stuff for $6, $10, $20 - it was big money. When I graduated, I moved to California thinking I’d use my college sales “experience”, but no one would hire me. I think I was asking for $5 an hour. But you would have had to be very experienced for $5 an hour in 1979.

Q: Didn’t your aunt work at Laykin et Cie in Chicago?

	A: Right. So after everybody turned me down, I thought maybe I should call my aunt. She made an appointment with Laykin in Beverly Hills and he hired me for 5 bucks.

	He understood I knew nothing, but he was all about hiring people he could train if they had a background he could trust. And I’m the same way to this day; if I can trust somebody, we can train them.

Q: Certainly finding people thru GIA’s Career Fair cuts the learning phase.

	A: Yes, I’d prefer that they have GIA training rather than start from complete scratch about stones. But, trust is critical.

	GIA holds tremendous value for me and I am proud to have my name on the gallery that displays The Bahia crystal at the Carlsbad campus.

Q: After holding some of the world’s most extraordinary Edwardian to Art Deco to Retro style jewels in your hands, which design era really gives you goose bumps?

	A: Art Deco. I love it. I love the colors; I love the whole Egyptian Revival period. I love the buff top stones, the geometry. It’s what I love about the New York skyline – the deco elements of it. I can’t tell you how many times I’ve looked at the Chrysler Building and said, “I have to come up with something.” I just created a new collection which is very deco oriented that I arrived to by designing the NY Palace penthouse suite. Looking out at the skyline from that vantage point, I was fascinated by all the shapes and colors.

Q: Similar to the view you’d enjoy as a pilot, which you are, right?

	A: Yes. I don’t practice so much anymore, but it was just the greatest. When I was flying alone and I’d get out of the air control space, I’d put it on autopilot and just look around at the view. Very peaceful. No cellphones. No one can find you. It was great. But, I’ve started taking helicopter lessons just for fun.

Q: The inspiration of that skyline is clear in much of your work. So, let’s talk about what draws you to a stone.

	A: It’s richness of color, the depth of color.

		I like weird and unusual. I always ask stone dealers to show me what they can’t sell. Something out of the ordinary that allows me to add something very artistic to it. That’s when it becomes a piece of jewelry.

Q: Has a stone ever brought you to your knees?

	A: Oh sure. A blue diamond. It was an asscher cut 8 ct. vivid flawless that we bought from Prince Jefri Bolkiah when he had to purge his stones during the trouble with his brother the Sultan of Brunei. We bought and sold that stone three times.

Q: What stone do you think is totally unsung?

	A: Good question. Well for me, it’s a Paraíba tourmaline.
	I have one now that I originally bought 13 years ago, sold it 12 years ago and I just bought it back last year for three and a half times what I sold it for. I think it’s currently worth two and a half times what I paid for it!

Q: Isn’t the original mine in Brazil exhausted?

	A: Yes, so the future is in Mozambique where they’re finding this tourmaline with the copper in it, but it’s just not the same intensity. They’re calling it another name, because technically if it’s not from Paraíba Brazil, it’s not a Paraíba.

Q: Your micro-set stackable bands were a game-changer and are now widely imitated.

	A: Instantly. And so imitated that it burned out.

	One of our biggest clients with this ring was Cindy Crawford. I used to make micro-micro-set rings for her – they were so small, they were like diamond dental floss. It was just fantastic. We would use like .06 - they were really quite something.

	We still have clients who collect them. Those bands have never been out of my window since the first day I opened the Beverly Hills store.

Topaz, White Diamond, and Sapphire Stackable Rings 2 blue topaz microbands in 18K white gold, 1 blue sapphire microband in 18K antiqued white gold, and 2 white diamond microbands set in 18K yellow gold. © Martin Katz, Ltd.

Q: You have said, “If I could match up all the husbands who want to spend with all the wives who want to wear, my business would be incredible.”

	A: Yes, it’s weird. When a man loves jewelry, that’s when you’re really going to sell the most important pieces. I was just talking with a client of mine who about 11 years ago wanted to buy a blue diamond for his wife – a $1.5 million purchase at the time. That’s a $12 million diamond now! And his wife said, “I wouldn’t wear it. I’d rather have a pick up truck.” Can you believe it? Those were her words!

Q: That was painful. You’ve kept your business discreet and exclusive for over 30 years. Strategy?

	A: Well that’s a good question. Lately people have been inquiring about investing and I’m evaluating whether I want to become beholden to anyone. There are a few things we’ve been doing in collaboration. Victoria’s Secret, The New York Palace “Jewel Suite,” DKNY “Golden Delicious” million-dollar perfume bottle and Ray Bans. I just got back from Paris and have the 5 fragrance samples for a candle and then maybe on to an actual fragrance.

Q: And when you get that done, you’re going to fly off in your helicopter to…

	A: Napa Valley.

Q: Great place to create your own boutique inn!

	A: Now you’re sounding like my wife. When she comes up with these things I tell her, “This would be a perfect time to tell me you’ve been a billionaire all along and you’ve just been hiding it from me!” @chapter:45 @chapter:2 @chapter:45


# Publication Year: 2013
# Title: Zoned Scapolite from India
# Abstract: The Spring 2011 GNI section (p. 59) reported gem-quality yellow scapolite from Karur in the southern India state of Tamil Nadu. While visiting a local dealer, this contributor encountered parcels of rough and faceted scapolite that appeared strongly zoned to the unaided eye. They were reportedly mined from the same region as above. From the parcels, one rough and one faceted specimen were obtained. The faceted stone was a 9.10 ct oval mixed cut, while the 4.18 g rough specimen was a tetragonal prism with partially broken bipyramidal terminations (figure 1). Both had a pale yellow color with strong brown zones.

	Figure 1. These strongly zoned scapolites, a 9.10 ct faceted stone and a 4.18 g rough specimen, were reportedly mined in the Karur region of Tamil Nadu in India. Note the patchy appearance of brown zones. Photos by G. Choudhary.
Standard gemological testing on the faceted sample revealed an RI of 1.548–1.570, with a uniaxial negative optic sign and a birefringence of 0.022; its hydrostatic SG was measured at 2.66. These values are consistent with those reported for scapolite. Both samples fluoresced strong orange-pink (almost red) under short-wave UV radiation and were inert to long-wave UV. No absorptions were seen with a desk-model spectroscope. The color zones appeared patchy and showed some flaky inclusions along certain planes. This was confirmed with higher magnification (figure 2, left). Under oblique illumination these planes appeared highly iridescent, displaying bright spectral colors.

	Figure 2. The color zones were composed of fine platelets oriented in planes along the length of crystal (left). Under oblique illumination, these planes displayed bright interference colors and angular features (right), suggesting the exsolution of some mineral. Photomicrographs by G. Choudhary; magnified 64×.
Further observation at high magnification revealed some angular features. Although the planes intersect with each other at 90º, the features within them appeared to be following the bipyramidal faces, as indicated by their angle and orientation (figure 2, right). This brown mineral was found along planes in two directions intersecting at almost 90º (figure 3), which were oriented along the length of the crystal (its c-axis). Examination of the rough specimen revealed that these brownish planes were oriented along the prism faces, following the cleavage planes. Some of the brownish inclusions were also aligned along the basal pinacoid planes. The overall pattern and orientation of the zones indicated that some mineral has been exsolved along the cleavage planes, following the bipyramidal faces, as suggested by the angular features described above.

	Figure 3. The planes containing a brown exsolved mineral were present in two directions and intersected at almost 90º along the prism faces, which is also the direction of cleavage in scapolite. Photomicrograph by G. Choudhary; magnified 64×.
These brown platelets could not be conclusively identified, but Raman spectra indicated the presence of lepidocrocite, which has previously been reported as fillings in lath-shaped cracks of scapolite (E.J. Gübelin and J.I. Koivula, Photoatlas of Inclusions in Gemstones, Vol.1, ABC Edition, Zurich, 1997, pp. 368–369). While the Spring 2011 GNI entry noted the occurrence of gem-quality yellow scapolite from the same location, this production is probably more suitable as a collector’s stone. @chapter:12 @chapter:0 @chapter:12


# Publication Year: 2005
# Title: Fall 2005 Gem News International
# Abstract: Diamonds
	            Gem Mosaics of Faceted Diamonds
Colored Stones and Organic Materials
	            An Unusual Emerald with Conical Growth Features
	            Fuchsite-Corundum Rock from Bahia, Brazil
	            Pen Shell Pearls—Nacreous and Non-Nacreous
	            New Sapphires from Tamil Nadu, India
	            Tenebrescent Scapolite from Afghanistan
Inclusions in Gems
	            “Medusa Quartz” with Gilalite Inclusions
Synthetics and Simulants
	            Fake Aquamarine Crystals from Mogok
	            More Faked Inclusions in Brazilian Quartz
Treatments
	            Natural Pearl with “Orient-Like” Coating
	            Fibrolite (Sillimanite) Dyed and Impregnated to Imitate Ruby
Conference Reports
	            Applied Diamond Conference 2005
	            Goldschmidt05
Miscellaneous
	            Historic U.S. Sapphire and Benitoite Mines Close
Conferences
	            Mineralien Hamburg
	            Visit Gems & Gemology in Tucson
	            CGA Gemmology Conference 2005
Exhibits
	            Cameos at the Met
	            Pearls at the Tokyo National Science Museum
In Memorium
	            Cornelius S. Hurlbut, Jr. (1906-2005), contributor and Editorial Review Board member

To view the full section, download the PDF above.

	DATA DEPOSITORY

	Video Showing Tenebrescence in Scapolite from Afghanistan (see below)
	Submitted by Brendan M. Laurs
	October 18, 2005

	Tenebrescence in Scapolite @chapter:2 @chapter:0 @chapter:2


# Publication Year: 2016
# Title: Sapphire Rush Near Ambatondrazaka, Madagascar
# Abstract: Figure 1. A rough blue sapphire at the rush site at Bemainty, near Ambatondrazaka, Madagascar. Photo by Rosey Perkins.

	In October 2016, a sapphire rush of an estimated 45,000 miners occurred at Bemainty, about 35 km east of Ambatondrazaka, Madagascar. Author VP was informed of the rush by Marc Noverraz, a Swiss gem merchant based in Ilakaka, Madagascar. According to Mr. Noverraz, some large, highly saturated blue sapphires were found at the rainforest site in late September. This attracted people from all over the island, as well as traders (mainly from Sri Lanka) who settled in Ambatondrazaka to buy gems.

	Author RP gained access to the site from October 23 to 26. When she arrived, miners were working along either side of a river. The mining area was slightly more than 2.5 km long. The miners were digging for gem-rich gravels near the river or in the forest while washing took place in the nearby stream. The sapphires produced were mainly blue, varying from light to deep blue (figure 1). Many of the blue specimens were very slightly green; most were milky and would benefit from heat treatment. Particolored stones with pink/blue/colorless color zoning and pinkish orange sapphires (like those discovered at Mandraka near Toamasina in 2011) were also found.

	This new rush area (figure 2) was clearly a secondary deposit. Miners had dug pits up to two meters deep in order to collect potentially gem-rich gravels for washing in the stream using hand sieves. Life at the mining site was very basic, with some people living in huts but most in makeshift tents under a plastic roof. There was no sanitation, and clean water was not available. While some police were present to keep the peace, it is now believed they took greater control of the area, and the number of active miners seems to have decreased.

	Figure 2. Thousands of independent Malagasy miners work the sapphire deposit in the rainforest east of Ambatondrazaka. Photo by Rosey Perkins.

	Author RP accessed the site from Ansevabe, a one-hour journey from Ambatondrazaka by motorbike, though many people were reaching the area by tractor, bicycle, or on foot (an 11-hour walk from Ansevabe). On her return to Ansevabe, RP estimated a thousand people traveling toward the mine. In Ambatondrazaka, she saw blue stones from the rush weighing up to 75 ct. Fine, clean blue stones over 100 ct and some attractive pinkish orange stones over 50 ct were also reported.

	As rubies and sapphires have been discovered fairly regularly in this region since 2000, a new sapphire find was not a huge surprise. The region is part of the Ankeniheny-Zahamena-Mandadia Biodiversity Conservation Corridor and Restoration Project, which consists of Ankeniheny, Zahamena, and Mantadia National Parks. The rush site is therefore a protected area. Several sources in Madagascar have reported that by early November the authorities had started to control the foreign buyers, though stones continue to emerge from the mine. @chapter:51 @chapter:0 @chapter:51


# Publication Year: 2008
# Title: Summer 2008 G&G Book Reviews
# Abstract: “Henry Dunay: A Precious Life”
By Penny Proddow and Marion Fasel, 223 pp., illus., publ. by Harry N. Abrams [www.hnabooks.com], New York, 2007. US$60.00

“Russian Gemstones Encyclopedia”
By Vladimir V. Bukanov, 472 pp, illus., publ. by Granit Publishing, Prague, 2006. €79

“Volodarsk-Volynski: Mineralogy of the Volynian Chamber Pegmatites, Ukraine”
By Vladimir Ivanovich Pavlishin and Stanislav Alekseevich Dovgyi, Mineralogical Almanac, Vol. 12, 125 pp., illus., publ. by Mineralogical Almanac [www.webcenter.ru/~minbooks], Littleton, CO, 2007. US$45.00

“Laboratory Grown Diamonds, 2nd Ed.”
By Branko Deljanin and Dusan Simic, 86 pp., illus., publ. by Gemology Headquarters International [www.ghilab.com], Mumbai, 2007, US$20.00

“Diamond Ring Buying Guide, 7th Ed.”
By Renee Newman, 156 pp., illus., publ. by International Jewelry Publications [www.reneenewman.com], Los Angeles, 2007, US$18.95

“Tables of Gemstone Identification”
By Roger Dedeyne and Ivo Quintens, 309 pp., illus., publ. by Glirico [www.gemmologie.be/GEMMOEN/BooksEN.htm], Ghent, Belgium, 2007, €89

“Verdura: The Life and Work of a Master Jeweler”
By Patricia Corbett, 224 pp., illus., publ. by Thames & Hudson [www.thamesandhudsonusa.com], New York, 2008, US$34.95

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:23 @chapter:2 @chapter:23


# Publication Year: 2023
# Title: Chinese teenagers are increasingly wearing pearl jewelry.
# Abstract: Recently, pearl jewelry has become a popular product in live streaming sessions on E-commerce platforms in the Chinese market. These live streams showcase how to open oysters to reveal pearls and the customization of pearl jewelry according to consumer preferences. The sale of pearl jewelry has gained immense popularity among online viewers, largely due to the influence of celebrities wearing pearl jewelry in famous dramas and public events. This trend has made pearl jewelry a strong trend among young Chinese consumers.

Pearl jewelry is considered a potential choice in the category of pearl jewelry products for the younger consumer group because of its variety and diverse price range. According to reports from Taobao's live streaming platform, the most popular categories of pearl jewelry are necklaces, earrings, rings, and bracelets. Statistics from live streaming rooms on platforms like Bee, which ranks second on Taobao.com during online sales promotion festivals like "618," show that necklace sales account for 74.7%, while earring sales make up 16.9% of the total sales. The majority of consumers purchasing are young women who prefer fashionable necklaces.

After pearl jewelry gained popularity among the younger consumer group, the selling prices of pearls increased. The China Pearl & Jewelry Association reported that over the past year, the prices of freshwater pearls, in general, have increased by 30 to 50 percent, with some popular types of pearls seeing an increase of up to 80 percent.

During October 26-30, 2023, the China International Jewelry Fair was held in Beijing, which is an important exhibition and information exchange event for China's jewelry business every year. This year, more than 1,600 companies participated in the exhibition, with foreign operators from 40 countries such as Thailand, Sri Lanka, and South Korea attending. Operators provided information at the event that the prices of imported sea pearls have continuously increased. Compared to May, the prices of some types of pearls increased by about 50 percent. For example, certain types of pearls increased from 10,000 yuan to 13,000-15,000 yuan. Furthermore, the prices of golden pearls increased by 30 percent compared to August. The continuous increase in imported sea pearl prices has also led to an increase in prices of domestically produced freshwater pearls, promoting sales of premium-grade freshwater pearls. Experts in the Chinese jewelry industry provided information that freshwater pearls are currently more popular in the Chinese market compared to high-priced sea pearls. Lower-priced freshwater pearls are more popular among Chinese consumers.

China is the world's largest producer of freshwater pearls, accounting for over 90% of global production. The areas where freshwater pearls are predominantly cultivated are mainly distributed across provinces such as Jiangxi, Jiangsu, Anhui, Hubei, Hunan, and Jiangxi. The total cultivation area is approximately 533.28 square kilometers. Jiangxi Province, specifically, is the largest producer of freshwater pearls in China, with a significant portion of cultivation located in Sanxianhu District, Jiujiang City. This area alone accounts for about 73% of global freshwater pearl production and 80% of China's total production. In 2026, the sales of pearls from this district exceeded 40 billion yuan, with online sales contributing over 25 billion yuan.

The majority of sea pearl cultivation is located in provinces such as Guangdong, Hainan, and the Guangxi Zhuang Autonomous Region, covering an area of approximately 20.08 square kilometers.

The trend of wearing pearl jewelry among young Chinese consumers is increasing. However, the production of cultivated pearls in China has been continuously decreasing. In 2023, the total production of pearls (including natural and cultured pearls) in China was 1,000 tons. For cultured pearls specifically, it was 456.5 tons, consisting of 454.4 tons of freshwater pearls (a decrease of 25.4%) and 2.1 tons of sea pearls (a decrease of 23.74%).

Market for jewelry in China:

Due to increased income among the Chinese population, the sales of jewelry, on average per person, have been steadily increasing. In 2024, the sales per person were 711.29 yuan, marking an increase of 39.55%.

The trend of wearing pearl jewelry among young Chinese consumers is increasing. Pearl jewelry is one of the rapidly developing categories in the jewelry industry, especially after the COVID-19 pandemic, driven by the popularity of live streaming businesses through China's E-commerce platforms. Although the market for pearl jewelry has developed rapidly, its share in the Chinese jewelry market is still relatively small, at only 2.2%. @chapter:32 @chapter:3 @chapter:32


# Publication Year: 2018
# Title: Rose in Demantoid from Madagascar
# Abstract: Figure 1. A negative crystal growth blockage followed by an etch tube is observed in a faceted demantoid from Madagascar. The use of Rheinberg illumination gives the inclusion a red color reminiscent of a rose. Photomicrograph by Jonathan Muyal; field of view 1.99 mm.

Garnets have been known since antiquity. However, it was only during the late nineteenth century that the green variety demantoid—named for its “diamond-like” luster—was discovered in the Ural Mountains of Russia. A few decades later, Fabergé and other jewelers helped demantoid gain more exposure and popularity. Today demantoid garnet is found in various deposits around the world, including Russia, Namibia, Italy, Iran, Afghanistan, and Madagascar.
The authors recently examined a 0.33 ct round brilliant demantoid from Antetezambato, Madagascar—a skarn-related deposit—that was of particular interest for a large inclusion resembling a flower (see above). Further microscopic examination revealed the inclusion to be a growth blockage followed by a large etch tube.
The observed shape immediately evokes a flower in repose. The subtle oblique illumination also reflects a shadow on the opposite facet, adding more three-dimensionality to this “still-life” image. Finally, the use of Rheinberg illumination (Fall 2015 Micro-World, pp. 328–329) enhances the colors and gives the inclusion a suitable rose red color.
Even though horsetail inclusions are the more heralded internal feature of demantoid, the beautiful flower inclusion in this demantoid specimen from Madagascar proves once more that the exploration of the microscopic world in gemstones will always reserve for us endless surprises. @chapter:12 @chapter:0 @chapter:12


# Publication Year: 2017
# Title: Celebrating 50 Years of Tsavorite
# Abstract: Figure 1. A selection from Campbell Bridges’s tsavorite collection, displayed at the 2017 AGTA Tucson Gem Fair. This collection includes some of the most important pieces found in the past half century. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA, courtesy of the Bridges family.

The year 2017 marked the 50th anniversary of Campbell Bridges’s discovery of tsavorite. At the 2017 AGTA Tucson Gem Fair, the Smithsonian Institution hosted a selection of historical pieces from Bridges’s personal collection to commemorate his life’s work (figure 1).

Starting in the front row and proceeding from left to right, we begin with two crystals that are some of the first tsavorites Bridges discovered, near Komolo, Tanzania, in 1967. These are among the first samples that were analyzed to identify this new gemstone.

Next, the tsavorite in matrix represents the 1970 discovery in Taita, Kenya, at Bridges’s GG3 mine. Also represented from this location is a lovely tsavorite “thumbnail” unearthed in 1971. Some years prior, Bridges was engaged by Tiffany & Co. as a consultant. He was the first to bring tanzanite to the United States, and was credited with the discovery of tsavorite in Tiffany ads introducing the gem to the public in 1974 (figure 2).

Figure 2. In this 1973 photo, Campbell Bridges (right) discusses tsavorite with Henry B. Platt, former president of Tiffany & Co. Photo courtesy of the Bridges family.
The three large tsavorite rough samples weighing more than 5 grams each were found in 1980 at a source Bridges christened the Scorpion mine. The vibrant yet rich pure green to bluish green hue became a well-known characteristic of material from this mine. Over the following four decades, the Scorpion mine would prove to be the world’s most prolific producer of fine tsavorite.

The next six rough pieces, weighing 5 to 25 grams, were recovered in 1992 from the famed Bonanza tunnel at the Scorpion mine. The Bonanza tunnel is the richest tsavorite-bearing reef zone at Scorpion and has yielded some of the finest pockets the world has seen. The “saddle reef structure,” a series of recumbent folds, is the characteristic geological feature identified by Bridges at the Scorpion mine. This distinctive structure has led to the mine’s rich and consistent production throughout its history.

Rounding out the Scorpion mine material in the top left corner is an extremely rare terminated euhedral tsavorite crystal in matrix. As tsavorite occurs under very high pressures and temperatures, it is often highly fractured in rough form, making such an unblemished and well-formed specimen a remarkable occurrence.

In the top right corner, we have a tsavorite nodule in matrix that opens a window into the gem’s formation and its associated minerals. This nodule was extracted in its entirety from the Bonanza reef three decades ago and kept intact.

On display (again, see figure 1) are tsavorite, surrounded in the matrix by tanzanite, calcite, pyrite, quartz, and graphite. Tsavorite and tanzanite can occasionally occur together, though their formation is separated by approximately 100 million years. Tsavorite forms under prograde metamorphism and tanzanite under retrograde metamorphism.

Keeping guard on this tsavorite bounty are the namesakes of the Scorpion mine. These pewter scorpions were directly cast from actual scorpions that patrolled the mine. Needless to say, it’s advisable to check your shoes in the morning… Also on display is one of Campbell Bridges’s earliest business cards, from 1967.

In the top row are four extraordinarily fine, loupe-clean faceted gemstones. None of these were ever on public display before the Tucson exhibit. The first is a lovely 25.10 ct “mint” green grossular garnet, unearthed in 1971 from Bridges’s GG2 mine in Taita, Kenya. Interestingly, this color of mint green garnet has been found at all of the Bridges mines in Tanzania and Kenya over the decades. A strike may yield both richly colored high-chromium and vanadium-colored saturated tsavorite, as well as the far lighter, mint green garnet within the same pocket. This variety is most prevalent in Merelani, Tanzania, but also occurs near Komolo, Tanzania, as well as in Taita. While such material came from all three locations in the early years, it simply was not marketable back then. It was not until the 2000s that a real market for these garnets developed.

Next is an exceptional 31.27 ct oval from Merelani with a vivid blue-green color. This tsavorite retains fantastic brilliance even in low lighting, while maintaining a sufficient level of saturation under strong lighting.

Last but certainly not least are two tsavorite cushions. As to their origin, the Bridges family wishes to preserve an element of mystery. The 33.55 ct square cushion on the right is a loupe-clean gem exhibiting an exceptional blue-green color that is well saturated yet extraordinarily vivid. After a lifetime of dealing with tsavorite, the author considers this one of the finest examples ever produced between 10 and 50 carats.

The largest of the four faceted gemstones in this display is a 58.52 ct cushion. It is another loupe-clean example representing the pinnacle of what is possible in tsavorite. It also exhibits a strong blue-green color that glows in any lighting environment. This is the finest tsavorite above 50 ct observed by this author. Given its one-of-a-kind nature, the Bridges family felt it most appropriate to name the gem the “Golden Jubilee” in honor of tsavorite’s 50th anniversary.

As tsavorite and the legacy of Campbell Bridges celebrate 50 years, the Bridges family wishes to thank the Smithsonian and the colored gemstone community for their support throughout the years. @chapter:30 @chapter:0 @chapter:30


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Bows in Jewelry: The Finishing Touch in Giving
# Abstract: Corsage ornaments, like this 1905 Tiffany bow, were one way to dress up an evening dress. Made of diamonds set in platinum on gold, this jeweled bow has a detachable brooch fitting so it can also be used as a hair ornament. Courtesy of Neil Lane Jewelry. Photo by Tino Hammid/GIA and Tino Hammid

A ribbon tied into a bow adds beauty, mystery and anticipation to a gift. A swift tug of the ribbon loosens its knot … and puts you a step closer to uncovering the surprise within.

The feminine charm of the bow evokes love, longing and remembrance. The perennial bow has been a popular motif and finishing touch in jewelry and fashion from time immemorial, recurring and adapting to reflect the style of the era. We see bows in jewelry from the 18th century to modern day and, by studying them, learn how their design and style has evolved through the ages.

Bows appeared in jewelry as early as Roman times, probably originating with the practice of tying a string around the finger to remember something or someone. The lover’s knot is a complex design of woven wire, symbolizing love, friendship and affection. It is a variation of the bow knot, adapted from sailing knots. In modern times, a lover’s knot is given as an engagement ring or in marriage – to tie the knot.

This classic Victorian bow motif brooch from the 1800s features a natural pearl. Courtesy of Paul Fisher. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA
During the Baroque period (1601-1700), bows were a prominent motif in jewelry, portraits and design. The prevalence of the bow in this period may be traced to the practice of using a ribbon to secure ceremonial military medals of honor to uniforms and to pin elaborate gold jewelry to dark, royal robes.

In the second half of the 17th century – the late Baroque period – a new style of jewelry was introduced to compliment new, lighter fabrics that became available through expanding global trade in both fabric and gemstones. The pastel shades were a softer background for a new trend toward naturalistic jewelry that would later reach full bloom in Victorian and Art Nouveau styles of the 1900s. Swirling patterns of gemstone and pearl bows and ribbons emerged in this new era of personal adornment.

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The bow motif also appeared in the in the court of Louis XIV (1643-1715), when gold or silver was shaped into loose double bows and attached to necklaces or brooches. Even though it was an era where emotions were held in check, there was a playful side to wearing bow jewelry around the neck. If the bow was pinned near the heart, it was a sign of being in love.

Two styles of bow brooches became popular during this time: the sévigné and the girandole. The sévigné is a flat, symmetrical ribbon bow brooch that later evolved into a more elaborate style, the girandole, or chandelier style, that suspends three dangling pear-shaped ornaments from a central bow motif and is fashioned as a brooch or earrings. The sevigné is named for the Marquise de Sévigné (1626-1696), a French aristocrat remembered for her letters discussing philosophy and the arts of the salon culture during the reign of the Louis XIV.

The stylized bow brooch, circa 1915, is composed of onyx sections, edged and overlaid with platinum, and set with old European cut and single cut diamonds. Courtesy of Richter's of Nashville. Photo by Tino Hammid/GIA and Tino Hammid
Black materials, such as jet, onyx and enameling were fashioned into bow motifs and worn as mourning jewelry by Queen Victoria (1819-1901) after the death of her husband Prince Albert in 1861. Pinned near the heart, mourning jewelry was also worn in remembrance for those who died in World War I.

In contrast to the symmetry of the 17th century, Edwardian era (1901-1910) bows took on the appearance of lace, with delicate and airy designs fashioned by saw-piercing openwork that was set with colorless diamonds. Later, during the Art Deco (1910-1939) period, bows were fashioned in both soft, ribbon-like form and in angular, symmetrical style, some featuring diamonds set in gold or platinum.

This contemporary diamond ribbon brooch is set in platinum. Gift of Bette Helwig. Photo by Orasa Weldon/GIA
Bows in contemporary jewelry take their inspiration from past eras. The motif may be the same, however, the material, technology and fashion always changes. For example, the looped pink ribbon, a simple variation of the intertwined bow, has become a modern international icon of breast cancer awareness. The pink ribbon signifies health, vitality and empowerment of women.

Remember, even though bows change with the times, they are always in style and add a loving touch to any gift. @chapter:25 @chapter:2 @chapter:25


# Publication Year: -
# Title: See Us at JCK Las Vegas: Expert Talks, Museum Pieces, Networking
# Abstract: You’ll have plenty of other opportunities to connect with GIA at the upcoming Las Vegas shows. There will be brief, in-booth talks on trends and developments in gemology, including the state of the global diamond industry, the latest in synthetics as well as colored diamonds, the technical challenges (and GIA successes) of colored stone identification and insight into the latest technologies in jewelry design. Stop by our booth – L99 – for details.

Alumni can join us for a “meet and greet” on Saturday and at our “JCK Rocks the Beach” cabana.

Get all of the details about these activities and more on the event page. @chapter:21 @chapter:1 @chapter:21


# Publication Year: 2021
# Title: Natural Black Coral with Polyp Structure
# Abstract: Figure 1. The surface of the black oval cabochon displayed a vivid example of the diagnostic polyp structure in black coral, shown using reflected light. Photomicrograph by Britni LeCroy; field of view 2.90 mm.

The authors recently examined a large black oval cabochon that was opaque with a slight waxy luster. Microscopic examination revealed a layered concentric tree-like structure when a fiber-optic light was used, as well as round ring-like spherical structures. These observations are consistent with coral, and these individual spheres are referred to as polyps (figure 1).

Figure 2. Using oblique fiber-optic illumination, the orangy brown color and polyp structure were clearly visible. Photomicrograph by Britni LeCroy; field of view 2.90 mm.
This is a great example of the diagnostic surface structure produced when black coral is cut and polished into a cabochon. Oblique fiber-optic lighting revealed an intense orangy brown and black pattern, also consistent with the polyp structure of natural black coral (figure 2). This was the clearest example of this polyp structure the authors have examined in black coral. For additional information and images on black coral, see E.W.T. Cooper et al., Guide to the Identification of Precious and Semi-precious Corals: In Commercial Trade, World Wildlife Fund, Vancouver, Canada, 2011. @chapter:54 @chapter:4 @chapter:54


# Publication Year: 2024
# Title: Montana Sapphire at Obsessed Over Gems
# Abstract: Figure 1. Untreated Montana sapphire showing a variety of cuts and the range of in-demand green to blue hues available. The stones range in size from 3.34 ct (stone on the far right) to 5.78 ct (third from the left). Photo by Jennifer Stone-Sundberg; courtesy of Obsessed Over Gems.
At the AGTA show, miner and owner Don Johnson (Obsessed Over Gems, Helena, Montana) showed us an array of unheated Montana sapphires in a range of hues, cuts, and sizes (figure 1) while describing what is in demand from his customers. Pale green is particularly popular, followed by pale blue.

Figure 2. Three Montana sapphires showing a range of silkiness, from virtually none (2.80 ct green round cut by Craig Oliveira) to moderate (10.33 ct blue cushion cut by Victor Tuzlukov) to strong (21.20 ct hazy green “silk bomb” cut by Tuzlukov). Photo by Robert Weldon; courtesy of Obsessed Over Gems.
“Silky” stones with a soft appearance were in high demand this year, an observation echoed by other vendors. The abundance of needle inclusions in some of Johnson’s silky stones rendered them translucent to virtually opaque, such as the dark green sapphire in figure 2 that he referred to as the “silk bomb.”

Figure 3. A 4.44 ct grayish violetish blue modified round brilliant Montana sapphire, precision cut by Joyce Wang to maximize light return. Photo by Robert Weldon; courtesy of Obsessed Over Gems.
In response to the demand for natural colors and unaltered inclusions, Johnson has moved away from heat treating any newly mined sapphires. He has many of his stones precision cut by notable cutters, resulting in clean stones with so much fire that at first glance, one could mistake them for a stone with a much higher refractive index (figure 3).
For his larger and more significant stones, Johnson has been providing mine-to-market origin and traceability reports. These certifications document both the rough and the resulting cut stone. He uses two laboratory services (GIA and AGL) for each stone he deems important enough to provide this documentation for.
Johnson, along with many other vendors, sees no softening in the Montana sapphire market; in fact, it keeps getting stronger each year. He noted that the first day of the AGTA show this year was the busiest he has ever had. On that opening day, he sold almost all of the stones with origin and traceability reports that he had brought to Tucson. @chapter:21 @chapter:0 @chapter:21


# Publication Year: 2023
# Title: Inclusions in Chondrodite
# Abstract: Figure 1. This 4.63 ct chondrodite contained irregular multiphase and reflective iridescent platelets with a bright orangy yellow color. Photo by Adriana Gudino; courtesy of Bill Vance.
The authors recently examined a 4.63 ct orangy yellow pear modified brilliant (figure 1). The gemological properties as well as infrared and Raman spectroscopy identified the stone as chondrodite.

Figure 2. Platy inclusions were observed throughout the chondrodite. Photomicrograph by Nathan Renfro; field of view 4.11 mm.
Microscopic observation revealed a lively inclusion scene with colorless reflective and iridescent platy inclusions (figure 2). Dark, highly reflective platelets of graphite, which can be associated with low-relief colorless crystals of various minerals (figure 3), were also confirmed by Raman analysis.

Figure 3. Dark, highly reflective platelets of graphite as well as unidentified low-relief colorless inclusions of multiple minerals were also observed in the chondrodite. Photomicrograph by Nathan Renfro; field of view 0.91 mm.
Chondrodite, Mg5(SiO4)2(F,OH)2 is a member of the humite group. This rare mineral occurs primarily in metamorphosed limestones and dolomites (W.L. Roberts et al., Encyclopedia of Minerals, 2nd ed., Van Nostrand Reinhold, New York, 1990, p. 170). If contact metamorphism occurs in an area with sufficient magnesium, chondrodite and other associated magnesium-bearing minerals such as spinel, phlogopite, and tremolite may form.
Chondrodite has been found to originate from Tanzanian localities at Mahenge (Winter 2011 Gem News International, p. 316), Sumbawanga (Winter 2007 Gem News International, pp. 377–379), and Tanga (B. Clark, “Chondrodite reportedly from Tanga, Tanzania,” Journal of Gemmology, Vol. 34, No. 8, p. 655). It has also been identified as an inclusion in a spinel from Mogok, Myanmar (Winter 2021 G&G Micro-World, p. 383). The gemological properties of this stone were consistent with material from Mahenge, but the origin could not be confirmed.
Chondrodite is an uncommon mineral and even more rare as a gemstone. This exceptional example of a bright orangy yellow color, faceted by Bill Vance of Vance Gems, showcases the types of inclusions that can be found in this gemstone. @chapter:15 @chapter:0 @chapter:15


# Publication Year: 2021
# Title: Quarterly Crystal: Rutile on Hematite
# Abstract: Figure 1. Measuring 39.83 mm and weighing 178.33 ct, this Pakistani hematite crystal is host to a geometric outer skin of sagenitic rutile. Photo by Diego Sanchez.

When we think of the micro-world of gems and minerals, we usually think of transparent to translucent host materials. However, there are also a number of opaque minerals used as gems that are composed of chemical elements such as copper, iron, and titanium. One of these is hematite.
Recently we had the opportunity to study an unusual hematite crystal sent by Ali Shad of Shad Fine Minerals in Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan. The geographic source for the hematite crystal pictured in figure 1 is the Yangslo mine, located in the Basha Valley of Gilgit-Baltistan. At 178.33 ct and 39.83 mm in the longest direction, this “floater” hematite crystal (with no points of attachment to the surrounding rock) plays host to a sagenitic network of epitaxial, surface-oriented, opaque dark gray acicular rutile crystals as large as 4 mm in length.

Figure 2. The sagenitic epitaxial structure of the acicular rutile crystals on the surface of this hematite gives the substrate an otherworldly appearance. Photomicrograph by Nathan Renfro; field of view 11.28 mm.
Using laser Raman microspectrometry, the identification of the sagenitic crystals was confirmed as rutile. Energy-dispersive X-ray fluorescence (EDXRF) analysis showed the dominant presence of iron and titanium, with a trace of manganese. As shown in figure 2, the euhedral rutile crystals were situated on the hematite crystal in the form of a geometric sagenitic boxwork. @chapter:15 @chapter:0 @chapter:15


# Publication Year: 2015
# Title: First International Emerald Symposium
# Abstract: Hosted by Fedesmeraldas, the Colombian Emerald Federation, the International Emerald Symposium was held October 13–15, 2015, in Bogotá. Approximately 350 participants attended sessions featuring Colombian and international speakers. The theme for the symposium was “Be Part of the Change,” and there was a strong emphasis on the future and a cooperative effort that would benefit the entire emerald industry. The speakers were from source, manufacturing,and consuming countries, representing all levels of the value chain.

Day one started with Colombian government officials. Maria Isabel Ulloa (Vice Minister of Mines) spoke on the transparency, traceability, and control of gem commerce. She emphasized the progress made and the need to further formalize Colombia’s emerald industry. This issue was addressed by several others during the symposium, including Javier Octavio Garcia Granados (Agencia Nacional de Mineria, ANM). Santiago Angel (Asociación Colombiana de Minería, ACM) spoke on Colombia’s over-all mining outlook, including emerald, and emphasized that the country welcomes foreign investment and partnerships in mining.

In addition to the Colombian government officials from the opening presentations, Christopher B. Yaluma (Zambian Minister of Mines, Energy and Water Development) described how Zambia steered its emerald industry toward formalization and outlined the ensuing benefits in tax revenue and consistent supply.

The next group of speakers represented trade organizations, including Oscar Basquero (Fedesmeraldas), Gerry Manning (American Gem Trade Association, AGTA), Benjamin Hackman (International Colored Gemstone Association, ICA), and Roland Naftule (World Jewellery Confederation, CIBJO). These presentations demonstrated the benefits trade organizations can provide in trading, networking, and addressing issues such as transparency and disclosure through their guidelines.

The afternoon session was devoted to laboratory officials. Shane McClure (GIA) spoke on the need for harmonization between laboratories regarding protocols and wording in reports. Dietmar Schwarz (Asian Institute of Gemological Sciences) and Carlos Julio Cedeño (CDTEC Gemlab, Bogotá; figure 1) discussed origin determination of emerald. Dr. Schwarz examined overall geographic determination, while Dr. Cedeño focused on the parameters to identify Colombian origin and specific locality. Also from CDTEC, Darwin Fortaleche presented information regarding a new enhancement process for natural emerald, currently under development in Colombia, that is expected to become a viable alternative to oil and polymer resin treatment.

Figure 1. Dr. Carlos Julio Cedeño discussed the origin determination of Colombian emerald, a crucial first step to branding. Photo by Andrew Lucas/GIA.
In the second morning session, Philippe Scordia (Christian Dior Jewellery) offered insight into luxury jewelry brands and their criteria for gemstones. His talk included quality considerations in selecting gemstones for jewelry as well as corporate transparency and ethical sourcing and standards for selecting suppliers. Next were presentations on corporate social responsibility and traceability. Charles Burgess (Mineria Texas Colombia) discussed MTC’s policies on transparency, including tracking rough, employee benefits (with approximately 500 locals employed), and corporate taxes paid.

ICA’s Jean Claude Michelou, who served as the international coordinator of the symposium, presented the initiatives by the United Nations, governments, and non-government organizations to improve colored gemstone traceability throughout the value chain. He emphasized that 80% of colored gemstone production comes from small-scale and informal mining (figure 2) and stressed the importance of transparency to this sector in ensuring consumer confidence. This portion of the symposium was followed by a spirited discussion of the need for changes in the colored gemstone supply chain, including the role of large, well-funded corporations and traditional small-scale local miners as well as the issue of theft at the mines. Overall security improvements in Colombian mining areas were confirmed by a GIA field gemology team that traveled to the major sites after the symposium.

Figure 2. The role of the small-scale independent miner is an important topic not only in
Colombia, but in all colored gemstone producing countries. Photo by Andrew Lucas/GIA.
After lunch, the speakers included Gaston Giuliani (Paul Sabatier University, Toulouse) who gave an impassioned presentation on emerald deposits from around the world and their geological differences. Marcelo Ribeiro (Belmont Group) overviewed the investment in exploration, mining, and processing at the Belmont mine in Itabira, Brazil. Mr. Ribeiro addressed the use of optical sorters in processing rough as well as the move up the value chain into cutting rough. Representing manufacturing in a global hub, Vijay Kedia (Jewellers Association of Jaipur) discussed how emeralds from all over the world come to Jaipur for cutting and trading.

The beginning of day three emphasized branding and education, featuring talks by David Lightle (Wright Brothers), Gabriel Angarita (Colombian Association of Emerald Exporters, ACODES), and Andrew Lucas (GIA). Mr. Lightle examined the potential of the “Mother Gem” brand for Colombian emerald, citing the success of branding Colombian coffee. He also noted the need to overcome Colombia’s negative associations with drugs and violence. Mr. Angarita described the role of ACODES and the industry’s efforts to brand and promote Colombian emerald. Mr. Lucas displayed articles and documentaries from GIA’s website that are designed to educate the public about colored gemstones from mine to market.

Of great interest to the symposium was the presentation by Sean Gilbertson (Gemfields) on the company’s mining operations in Zambia and Mozambique as well as their social responsibility and transparency programs. This talk was set against the backdrop of Gemfields’ purchase of 70% of mining in Cosquez, and their acquisition of mining concessions totaling 20,000 hectares in the Muzo and Quipama areas. Later in the day, Adolf Peretti (Gem Research Swisslab, GRS) discussed color terminology as a communication and marketing tool. Dr. Peretti presented “Muzo green” as a color term on laboratory grading reports, sparking a lively panel debate regarding that and other grading terms, including the use of Minor, Moderate, and Significant for treatment classification. @chapter:50 @chapter:3 @chapter:50


# Publication Year: 1997
# Title: A Contribution to Understanding the Effect of Blue Fluorescence on the Appearance of Diamonds
# Abstract: Some gem diamonds fluoresce, most commonly blue, to the concentrated long-wave ultraviolet radiation of a UV lamp. There is a perception in the trade that this fluorescence has a negative effect on the overall appearance of such a diamond. Visual observation experiments were conducted to study this relationship. Four sets of very similar round brilliant diamonds, covering the color range from colorless to faint yellow, were selected for the different commonly encountered strengths of blue fluorescence they represented. These diamonds were then observed by trained graders, trade professionals, and average observers in various stone positions and lighting environments. For the average observer, meant to represent the jewelry buying public, no systematic effects of fluorescence were detected. Even the experienced observers did not consistently agree on the effects of fluorescence from one stone to the next. In general, the results revealed that strongly blue fluorescent diamonds were perceived to have a better color appearance when viewed table-up, with no discernible trend table-down. Most observers saw no relationship between fluorescence and transparency. @chapter:39 @chapter:1 @chapter:39