# Publication Year: 2023
# Title: “Edison” Pearls: Increasing Market Presence
# Abstract: A graduated strand of “Edison” pearls in copper and bronze metallic colors, ranging from 9 to 12 mm. Also shown are three loose pearls: 10 mm peach, 11 mm purple, and 11 mm copper. Photo by Robert Weldon.
Several vendors at both the AGTA and GJX shows carried large and attractively colored “Edison” pearls from China (see C. Zhou et al., “Detection of color treatment and optical brightening in Chinese freshwater ‘Edison’ pearls,” Summer 2021 G&G, pp. 124–134). These round freshwater bead cultured pearls generally ranged in size from 9 to 14 mm. Some baroque pearls were also offered. This year we saw deeper hues and more purple, bronze, copper, peach, and orangy pink colors than in the past; lighter colors such as white, cream, and light pink were more scarce. Popular trends included “rainbow” strands of pearls featuring a mix of colors, strands with alternating blocks of color, and strands with metallic colors (see above). At GJX, we spoke with Amy Hansen of A&B Jewelry (Honolulu, Hawaii) to learn about current purchasing trends and the latest developments at the pearl farms.
Hansen indicated that “Edison” pearls are still finding their place in the market. Her designer clients are seeking larger pearls, and those in the 12–14 mm size range are doing particularly well, with pearls larger than 13 mm in highest demand. She explained the limits in producing larger pearls: Larger sizes (particularly greater than 14 mm in diameter) take much more time to culture, which greatly limits the yield of top-grade product with respect to shape, nacre, surface, and luster. As a result, the highest-quality “Edison” pearls in sizes over 14 mm are rare and considerably more costly. That said, she noted that “Edison” pearls are still a good value, available in an appealing variety of colors and sizes with a price point substantially below akoya and Tahitian saltwater cultured pearls.
Hansen explained that the cultivation of “Edison” pearls in terms of bead size and culturing times is similar to that for saltwater Tahitian pearls. She described improvements in the process, including Chinese freshwater pearl farmers moving inland to access cleaner rivers and lakes and using more sound environmental practices. The move to these newer locations has resulted in more colors being achieved, broadening the offerings of these pearls. Chinese freshwater cultured pearl production has also decreased over the past five years as the focus has shifted more to quality over quantity. The wholesale price of fine-quality “Edison” pearls is still considerably below that of similarly sized Tahitian and akoya pearls, but we expect the price gap to narrow somewhat as the quality and popularity of these beautiful freshwater cultured pearls continues to increase. @chapter:53 @chapter:4 @chapter:53


# Publication Year: 2012
# Title: Inclusions in Aquamarine from Ambatofotsikely, Madagascar
# Abstract: In January 2012, aquamarine crystals containing interesting inclusions were extracted from the Ambatofotsikely area northwest of Antsirabe, Madagascar. These specimens displayed various types of eye-visible and microscopic inclusions, and some had an unusual form. Raman microspectroscopy identified reddish brown platelets as hematite, while ilmenite was found as black platelets, black needles, and distinctive dark gray dendrites. Similar inclusions are known in beryl from Brazil, India, Mozambique, and Sri Lanka. @chapter:12 @chapter:0 @chapter:12


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Ups and Downs of 2016 Make for an Uncertain 2017
# Abstract: Rough diamond prices are more in touch with the market going into 2017, but some analysts believe a new supply glut is building. Photo by Russell Shor/GIA

	The diamond industry experienced a slow-growth economic recovery in 2016 and the colored gemstone trade received a welcome shot in the arm − despite a politically turbulent year.

	Luxury brands worldwide experienced a second slow year in a row and, in the U.S., the world’s largest market, jewelry demand fluctuated between anemic growth and slight declines as the fractious presidential election took its toll on the national mood. Consumers in China, the world’s second-largest retail market, continued to cut back on luxuries, sending the country’s major jewelers into a second year of double-digit sales declines. Currency chaos in India sapped demand at the year’s end.

	These mixed signals leave no clear indicators for the state of business in 2017.

	DIAMONDS

	The diamond industry was in chaos coming into 2016. The sharp cutback in rough sales by De Beers, Alrosa and other producers in 2015 helped reduce an estimated eight-month inventory overhang that weakened prices and sapped profits. Rough prices were well above comparable polished in most cases and diamond manufacturers, who saw their credit lines slashed by 30% or more, refused most of their allocations from De Beers and Alrosa.

	Both De Beers and Alrosa trimmed the prices of their contracted sales (an average of 5% and 15%, respectively) at the beginning of the year and other producers followed suit. The recovery was surprisingly swift and manufacturing became profitable again for many firms.

	By the end of 2016, the major mining companies turned in good numbers. De Beers was estimated to close the year with rough sales estimated between $5.6 billion and $5.8 billion, representing a nearly 30-35% increase from a turbulent 2015, despite lowering its rough prices. Alrosa’s sales climbed 48% (to $3.98 billion) during the first three quarters of 2016 and were expected to keep that pace until year’s end. Rio Tinto’s was expected to be 3-5% ahead of 2015.

	These numbers, however, were not good enough to save De Beers’ Snap Lake mine in Northern Canada, which the company plans to flood this year after several years of unprofitable operation. In addition, Rio Tinto walked away from the promising Bunder diamond mining project in India before development began.

	Banks continued to tighten credit terms on the diamond industry in 2016, with the result that some large operations were placed on financial life support. Credit will remain difficult going into 2017 and likely remain so for the foreseeable future.

	Dramatic increases in rough sales were not fully matched by rising demand, so inventories began to climb after the spring season, prompting leading lender ABN AMRO to issue a warning that stocks may reach unsustainable levels. As a result, De Beers and Alrosa will likely remain cautious in their sales during the first quarter.

	After a five-year hiatus, generic diamond advertising was revived in the U.S. The Diamond Producers Association, a group of the world’s seven largest diamond-mining companies, which included De Beers, launched the $12 million program in October using the tagline “Real is Rare.”

	The campaign, which was presented in various social media channels and on TV, shows young couples in clubs and resorts, continuing the relationship-oriented campaigns of the De Beers “Forever” advertising of the past. There are differences between the old and new campaigns, however. The old De Beers ads specifically targeted engagements and wedding anniversaries. The “Real is Rare” campaign is less about formality and traditional rules in today’s relationships and adds the implication that natural diamonds will remain more desirable than synthetics.

	Synthetic diamonds broke into the news early in the year with the creation of the Diamond Foundry, a new venture funded in part by actor Leonard Di Caprio. The start-up began test-marketing its lab-grown diamonds through four distributors and is working on a production facility it plans to open at the end of 2017.

	While colorless synthetic diamonds remained a small part of diamond sales in 2016, producers and sellers of those goods are increasing their marketing efforts and sales channels, so sales likely will grow in 2017.

Rubies from Mozambique helped renew demand for ruby, but some retailers remained cautious until President Obama lifted U.S. sanctions on material from Myanmar. Photo by Russell Shor/GIA

	COLORED GEMS

	President Obama removed the eight-year-old sanctions on Myanmar in the fall, allowing rubies from that country – the world’s major source – to legally be traded again. While some retailers and wholesalers ignored the sanctions, most U.S. major retailers did not carry ruby pieces while they were in place. Although Mozambique ruby helped fill the supply gap in the past two years, some retailers and jewelry designers worried that a cloud of suspicion hung over the gem, regardless of its source, because of its association with Myanmar.

	The ban was less effective at the top end of the market where dealers at U.S. trade shows continued to openly display and promote “pigeon blood” Burmese rubies.

	The effect of the sanctions being lifted may not be felt in consumer markets until later this year because gem dealers need time to re-establish supply lines.

	The Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) announced in March that it will begin to certify colored stone producers in 2017. The move came after five years of discussions with various players in the trade. The RJC has 900 member firms in the diamond, jewelry and watch sectors of the industry.

	RETAIL

	The retail optimism spurred by the growing U.S. economy did not translate into a sharp upturn in diamond demand through the year. Major retail chains reported uneven sales throughout the year, with slight declines going into the fourth quarter. Most U.S. major retailers will report their seasonal numbers in late January.

	Surveys of independent jewelers showed more positive growth, with the majority enjoying sales increases of 5% or more, especially in the upper market.

	In China, the largest retail jewelers reported continued double-digit sales declines as the market continues to cool. In Hong Kong, retail sales of jewelry and watches fell 19% through the first 11 months of the year, according to the Hong Kong Census and Statistics Department. Officials in China remain hopeful that 2017 may bring an improvement because the government, recognizing the need to spur the economy, is adopting measures to encourage consumer spending.

	India’s retail jewelry sales took an immediate hit in November after its government banned 500 rupee bills (worth approximately $7.50) and 1,000 rupee bills (worth about $15) from cash transactions. The goal was to direct more commerce through banks so the government could keep track of it and reduce the opportunity for corruption, money laundering and tax evasion. A large portion of the population is paid in cash with such notes, however, and do not have bank accounts. Economists estimate that the move will result in sharp cuts in retail sales, including jewelry, and reduce economic growth by one or two points.

	Worldwide luxury sales slumped this year with the slowdown in China and a continued move away from the “bling” look of the past decade.

	Exports of Swiss luxury watches declined 11% through the first 11 months of 2016, with the decline accelerating in the fall. The conditions caused hundreds of layoffs throughout the industry. Executives said they are continuing to adjust to a “new reality” of changing tastes and markets.

	AUCTIONS

	The spring 2016 auction season was one for the record books, achieving nearly $800 million in sales between March and July, and featuring the costliest gemstone ever to go under the hammer at a public sale.

	Christie’s and Sotheby’s, who control more than 90% of top-end gem and jewelry sales worldwide, broke last year’s record by more than $140 million, aided by the Oppenheimer Blue, a GIA-graded Fancy Vivid blue diamond that sold for $57.1 million.

	The first major stone to sell last year was the 10.10 carat (ct) Fancy Vivid blue De Beers Millennial 4 diamond. The stone was part of De Beers’ famed diamond collection of 10 blue diamonds exhibited at the London Millennial Dome in 2000 that was the target of a bold, but unsuccessful robbery attempt.

	The fall season began slowly with several important diamonds and gemstones going unsold. It was ultimately successful, however, with a number of multi-million-dollar fancy-color diamonds changing hands, even if the prices did not set records.

	At Christie’s Nov. 29 Hong Kong sale, a GIA-graded 4.29 ct Fancy Vivid blue diamond sold for $11.8 million, while the 10.7 ct “Ratnaraj” ruby sold for $10.2 million. At Sotheby’s Geneva sale, which totaled over $136 million, the 8.01 ct “Sky Blue” diamond, graded Fancy Vivid blue by GIA, drew a winning price of just over $17 million and a 7.74 ct Fancy Deep blue diamond went for $3.7 million.

	The most publicized auction of the year was the June 29 auction of the 1,109 ct Lesedi la Rona diamond, the second largest gem rough ever found. The mining company that found the diamond, Lucara Diamond, offered it in a public sale through Sotheby’s, but it failed to meet its reserve, reportedly set at $82 million.

	The company said it will offer the diamond for sale again this year in a trade-only transaction that presumably would not include a 12% buyer’s premium. @chapter:37 @chapter:3 @chapter:37


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Gemstone Lore
# Abstract: Gemstones have long been believed to carry healing, protective and even magical properties. Today, gemstones are enjoyed for their beauty in jewelry and if, by chance, they carry some mysterious qualities that repel insects, heal illnesses, protect travelers or attract love...why not accept a bit of chance good fortune?

DIAMOND
Diamonds have the longest endurance of any substance known to man. On average they are 3.4 billion years of age.  The word “diamond” comes from the Greek word adamas, meaning “unconquerable and indestructible.” Diamonds were worn in ancient times to promote strength, invincibility and courage. Diamond is also the gemstone of love: when carried or worn, diamond is said to advance positive relations with the opposite sex, to conquer infertility and to ensure fidelity. The earliest record of a man giving a diamond to a woman for her hand in marriage was in 1477, when the Archduke of Austria gave one to Mary of Burgundy. Now, more than 500 years later, diamonds are still the most popular gemstones in engagement rings.

EMERALD
The word “emerald” comes from the Greek word smaragdos, meaning “green.” A member of the beryl mineral species, it contains chromium, which gives emerald its green color. In ancient Egypt, this tranquil green gem was highly prized by the wealthy and by priests. It is said that Isis wore a green emerald in her headband and that those who looked upon it would be able to conceive. Emeralds in ancient Rome were highly prized and valued for their calming and soothing effects. Nero watched the Roman games in the Colosseum through a set of highly prized emerald glasses. Emeralds, like almost all green gemstones, are also thought to be advantageous for business/money ventures.

RUBY
Ruby is made of aluminum oxide (corundum). The red in rubies is caused by trace amounts of chromium—the redder the gem, the more chromium. Rubies are found primarily in Myanmar, Thailand and Sri Lanka. The ruby represents the sun power in Hindu ancient writings, and is said to have been given as an offering to Buddha in China and Krishna in India. An ancient belief about rubies was that dreaming of them meant the coming of success in money matters and love.

SAPPHIRE
Sapphire is also made of aluminum oxide and is considered the sister stone to the ruby. It comes in all colors except red, which has been designated as “ruby.” Blue sapphires have enjoyed increased popularity in recent years, which fashion mavens credit to the sapphire engagement ring given to Princess Diana. The Buddhists believe that the sapphire favors devotion and spiritual enlightenment. The ancient Greeks linked sapphire with Apollo, and wore it as an aid to prophecy when consulting oracles. @chapter:55 @chapter:2 @chapter:55


# Publication Year: 2021
# Title: Pink Euclase
# Abstract: Figure 1. The 4.08 ct orangy pink euclase. Parallel pink color zoning is observed under the table. Photo by Shunsuke Nagai.

GIA’s Tokyo laboratory had the opportunity to examine an orangy pink faceted stone, weighing 4.08 ct and measuring 13.00 × 9.90 × 5.23 mm, with a hydrostatic specific gravity of 3.09 (figure 1). It had optically biaxial features based on trichroic colors of yellowish orange, pale orange, and orangy pink, and refractive index values of 1.652–1.671 with a birefringence around 0.019. The stone was inert to ultraviolet light sources.

Figure 2. Transparent platy crystal inclusions and aligned particles were observed. Photomicrograph by Mari Sasaki; field of view 1.85 mm.
Transparent platy crystals and straight graining were observed under the microscope (figure 2). There were no signs of treatment such as coating or clarity enhancement. Gemological properties matched euclase, which was confirmed by comparing the Raman spectrum with the RRUFF database (reference spectrum R050032).
Euclase is one of several collector’s minerals discovered in the eighteenth century in Brazil (D. Atencio, “The discovery of new mineral species and type minerals from Brazil,” Brazilian Journal of Geology, Vol. 45, No. 1, 2015, pp. 143–158) and classified as a beryllium aluminum hydroxide silicate, with an ideal chemical formula of BeAlSiO4(OH). Crystals are found worldwide and occur in a range of colors such as colorless or white, blue, green, and yellow (e.g., S.M. Stocklmayer, “A new occurrence of euclase in Western Australia,” Australian Journal of Mineralogy, Vol. 18, No. 2, 2017, pp. 39–44). Gem-quality pink euclase was first reported in 2018 (M.B. Leybov, “Denver 2018: ‘Minerals of Mexico,’” Mineralogical Almanac, Vol. 24, No. 1, pp. 58–63), and this color is considered rare.

Figure 3. UV-Vis spectrum of this orangy pink euclase. The 470 and 540 nm absorption peaks probably originated from Mn3+ and the 381 nm peak from Fe3+.
The causes of color for euclase have been discussed in many studies (e.g., E. Gübelin, “Sapphire-blue euclase, a new collector’s gem,” Winter 1978-1979 G&G, pp. 104–110; M. Mattson and G.R. Rossman, “Identifying characteristics of charge transfer transitions in minerals,” Physics and Chemistry of Minerals, Vol. 14, No. 1, 1987, pp. 94–99; S. Stocklmayer, “Blue euclase from Zimbabwe – a review,” Journal of Gemmology, Vol. 26, No. 4, 1998, pp. 209–218). According to these three previous studies, blue to green color in euclase is believed to be caused by an Fe2+-Fe3+ charge transfer and Fe2+-Ti4+ transitions or the presence of trivalent iron. Moses et al. (Summer 1993 Gem Trade Lab Notes, pp. 125–126) reported a greenish blue euclase colored by chromium. Gilles-Guéry et al. (“Mn3+ and the pink color of gem-quality euclase from northeast Brazil,” American Mineralogist, 2021, in press) determined that pink coloration due to the absorption between green to blue with two broad peaks at 470 and 540 nm is caused by Mn3+, while the orange hue is related to the rising slope in the UV domain combined with an additional absorption peak at 381 nm originating from Fe3+. This stone showed a UV-Vis absorption spectrum (figure 3) similar to the pattern due to Mn3+ reported by Gilles-Guéry et al. (2021), and trace Mn concentrations around 60 ppm were detected by LA-ICP-MS. These characteristics suggest that the orangy pink color seen in this stone is possibly caused by manganese. This is the first such example examined at GIA. @chapter:15 @chapter:0 @chapter:15


# Publication Year: 2011
# Title: Infrared Spectroscopy of Natural vs. Synthetic Amethyst: An Update
# Abstract: When microscopic identification is not feasible, FTIR spectra at high resolution (0.5 cm–1) can distinguish natural and synthetic amethyst. The 3595 cm–1 band is characteristic of natural amethyst and has a full width at half maximum (FWHM) of 3.3 ± 0.6 cm–1. In synthetic amethyst, this band is either absent or (very rarely) about twice as broad. Exceptions to this criterion include natural amethyst with pronounced near-colorless zones, which do not always display this band, and natural specimens that either have an intense, unusually broad 3595 cm–1 band or show total absorption in the X-OH region (3800–3000 cm–1) of the spectrum.

	DATA DEPOSITORY

Additional Figures
	October 24, 2011 @chapter:13 @chapter:0 @chapter:13


# Publication Year: 1982
# Title: Spring 1982 Gem News International
# Abstract: Diamonds
            Australia: Ashton Mining Predicts Yield
            Belgium: Concern over Cut Diamonds from Russia
            Ghana: Only Production Mine May Be Closed
            Guinea: Investment for Production Planned
            India: New Sources for Rough Sought
            Israel: Processing appears to be Reviving
            South Africa: Bourse Opened Recently
            Sweden: First Discovery in Europe
            Taiwan: Plant Opening in Republic of China
            U.S.: GE Announces Invisible ID
            USSR: First Underground Mine Underway
Colored Stones
            Aquamarine from Afghanistan
            Synthetic Amethyst
            Imitation Opal
            Israeli Emerald Industry
            Another Taaffeite
            New Pala Tourmaline Pockets
International Gemological Symposium
Tucson Gem and Mineral Show
            Beryl: Aquamarines Plentiful
            Corundum: Orange, Pink, Yellow Sapphires Abundant
            Garnet: Orange Garnets and Rhodolites Plentiful
            Malachite: Many Fine Specimens
            Pearl: Large Quantity on Display
            Peridot: Fine Specimens from Burma and Arizona
            Spinel: All Colors Plentiful
            Spodumene: Afghanistan Rough, Brazilian Cut
            Sugulite: Purple Stone Shown in Quantity
            Tanzanite: Few Fine Specimens in Evidence
            Topaz: Concern over Radiation
            Tourmaline: Green from Zambia Plentiful
Announcements
            Canadian Gemmological Association Opens Course
            Scholarships Offered

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:21 @chapter:0 @chapter:21


# Publication Year: -
# Title: An Inside Look at the 2014 Tucson Shows
# Abstract: Buyers of every stripe walk the aisles for choice finds at the 2014 gem show in Tucson. Photo by Eric Welch.

                      Every year in February, Tucson, Arizona, becomes the center of the colored stone industry, hosting several major gem and mineral shows. Dealers, cutters, and miners come from all over the globe, bringing with them a spectacular array of gems to sell. In 2014, GIA once again interviewed industry professionals at the shows to see the very latest and gather insight on the global market. Links to these interviews are listed below.

Exceptional Gem Artistry in Sunstone, Rutilated Quartz, and Beryl – Tucson 2014
Gem cutter Alexander Kreis of Idar-Oberstein relates his approach to unlocking the beauty of rough gemstones such as Oregon sunstone, beryl, and rutilated quartz. He describes the influences that play into his unique designs, whether it’s the pure, crystalline beauty of a flawless piece of rough or the presence of striking inclusions.
Learn More

Natural-Color Tanzanite and Yellow Sapphire – Tucson 2014
Israeli dealer Kobe Sevdermish introduces us to the subtle beauty of unheated tanzanite, bright yellow African sapphire sought after by his clientele as a fancy-color diamond substitute, and the rich, earthy colors of heated zircon from Tanzania.
Learn More

Gem Crystals – Tucson 2014
Industry veteran Steve Ulatowski notes how recent market changes have driven prices for rough colored stones of all types to unprecedented heights. He explains the impact on his business and reveals some of the key factors behind these shifting market dynamics.
Learn More

Innovative Optical Effects, Unique Rings with Raw Crystals – Tucson 2014
Husband-and-wife team Brian and Kendra Cook reveal the design philosophy behind their unique gemstone products, which use “raw” gem crystals, clever optical effects, or aromatic oils to tantalize the senses in a combination of texture, color, and scent.
Learn More

Mexican Fire Opal – Tucson 2014
Tucson is a showcase for fascinating and diverse gem materials. Included in this segment are emerald, quartz, and liddicoatite tourmaline crystals, Taiwanese “seven-color jade,” synthetic quartz from Russia, treated Brazilian quartz, and turquoise and benitoite from the United States.
Learn More

More of the Interesting and Unusual – Tucson 2014
The Tucson Gem Show provides a venue for a myriad of fascinating and diverse materials. Included in this segment are fascinating emerald, quartz, and liddicoatite tourmaline crystals, decorative objects made from Taiwanese ‘7-color jade,’ synthetic quartz from Russia, advice for choosing star rose quartz rough, treated Brazilian quartz, and finally turquoise and benitoite from the United States.
Learn More

Red Beryl – Tucson 2014
Ray Zajicek of Equatorian Imports Inc. displays some exceptional examples of red beryl from Utah, in both loose form and in suites of jewelry. As mining there has ceased, this material is likely to become an increasingly scarce commodity.
Learn More

Varieties of Rutilated Quartz – Tucson 2014
Bill Heher of Connecticut-based Rare Earth Mining Co. shows exceptional rutilated quartz from Bahia in northern Brazil. Thanks to its seemingly infinite variety and one-of-a-kind appeal, this material is popular among contemporary jewelry designers.
Learn More

Fossilized Drusy Shells – Tucson 2014
Tarun Adlakha of Indus Valley Commerce in New Delhi exhibits fascinating fossilized gastropod shells replaced by chalcedony and encrusted with drusy quartz.
Learn More

Cultured Pearl Market Update – Tucson 2014
Fran Mastoloni of Mastoloni Pearls in New York offers a cultured pearl market update. He discusses current design trends in pearl necklaces and urges retailers to embrace the rich variety of cultured pearl types available today.
Learn More

Fine Australian Chrysoprase Rough and Carvings –Tucson 2014
Mary Lou Osmond of Candala Chrysoprase talks about the company’s chrysoprase chalcedony mine in Marlborough, Australia. She explains that growing demand has customers purchasing her top-quality material to produce calibrated cabochons in addition to the carvings that were once the mainstay.
Learn More

Fine Corundum, Paraíba Tourmaline, and Alexandrite – Tucson 2014
Dave Bindra of B&B Fine Gems in Los Angeles comments on the corundum, Paraíba tourmaline, and alexandrite markets. He displays exceptional specimens from his booth at the AGTA show, including a 112.82 ct alexandrite, a 33.16 ct blue sapphire, and an electric blue 14.59 ct Paraíba tourmaline.
Learn More

Stone and Fossil Photography – Tucson 2014
Mike Woodward of San Clemente, California, showcases striking photos of stones, fossils, and gem materials that resemble abstract paintings or landscapes.
Learn More @chapter:38 @chapter:3 @chapter:38


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Luxury Watch Companies Tone Down the Bling in 2016
# Abstract: Chopard’s Rainbow Imperiale Joaillerie watch, containing 581 sapphires of graduated color, combines design and craftsmanship ‒ with a more subtle bling factor ‒ popular in today’s luxury watches. Photo courtesy of Chopard

	The world luxury market is retooling to adjust to changing consumer attitudes in Western nations and new economic realities in Asia and the Middle East. Nowhere is that more evident than the ultra-luxury watch industry, which is moving away from the “dipped-in-diamonds” look of previous years to distinctive, memorable designs.

	Today’s market is challenging luxury watch brands to reverse a sharp decline in demand. Sales have fallen steadily through the year and in April they were down 8% in units and 9.6% by value compared to the same period in 2015.

	Not surprisingly, the biggest downturn was in precious metal and gemstone watches, which declined more than 14% by both value and units. Exports to China, once the sector’s most promising market, were down more than 36% and 17% by value. Japanese demand declined by 5.8%, while Europe saw double digit declines. The only growth market (just barely) was the U.S., which was up 1.2%.

	The reasons are the same as why other producers of luxury products are rethinking their products and marketing:

		Economic growth in China is slowing; some retailers there are looking at 10% declines in sales.

		Depressed commodity and oil prices have cut the buying power of Middle Eastern buyers.

		The high U.S. dollar has discouraged consumers in Russia and India.

		U.S. consumers, even very wealthy ones, have become more discerning, shying away from ostentation for its own sake.

 Mouawad’s La Bijou Devine watch line, featuring approximately two carats of colorless, round brilliant cut diamonds set into rose gold in a crescent-shaped dial, emphasizes style and elegance over the showiness that was popular several years ago. Photo courtesy of Mouawad

	“People are more cautious today,” explains Alain Mouawad, whose company traditionally offered watches studded with 20 or more carats of high quality diamonds. The company’s latest jeweled watches contain about two carats of diamonds in its high market La Bijou Devine collection.

	A tour of the luxury watch pavilion at Baselworld 2016, when many of the prestige brands reveal their new styles, saw a much more muted line of products than were offered two or three years ago.

 Graff introduced its Princess Butterfly watch, which contains 25 carats of blue pear-shaped sapphires and is accented by colorless diamond baguettes, at Baselworld. Push on one of the diamonds to reveal the dial. Photo courtesy of Graff

	Graff, for example, which in the past was all about diamonds – a great many of them – offered a “Princess Butterfly” watch set with 25 carats of pear-shaped sapphires in its wings and small baguette diamonds surrounding the dial.

	Chopard traditionally created some of the world’s most costly diamond watches, but its director of product development Guy Bove says its clientele want “individualistic design in place of many, many gemstones.”

 Chopard has revived its Happy Diamonds watch collection, which it introduced more than 40 years ago. The watch contains from 4-14 colorless, round brilliant 5 mm diamonds, depending on the model, that float inside the watch dial. Photo courtesy of Chopard

	The company developed several diamond watch lines, including reviving its 40-year-old "Happy Diamonds" watch, where the emphasis is on setting diamonds within striking designs “to show them well.” In the woman’s watch, 14 five mm round brilliant diamonds placed under the watch crystal float around the mother-of-pearl dial. The man’s version uses four floating diamonds.

	Chopard has not let the gem-studded watch concept go just yet. It showed an ingenious, albeit extremely difficult, Imperiale Joaillerie timepiece made from 581 sapphires of different colors that subtly graduate to create the full spectrum of color around the dial, bezel and watch band.

	Luxury watches are not only about gemstones. A number of watch brands are divisions of large conglomerates, such as Richemont and Louis Vuitton, Moët Hennessy (LVMH), which spend million of dollars on marketing and maintaining brand integrity. Indeed, their brand presence at the Baselworld Fair is a case in point: they display their timepieces in multi-story spaces the size of a city store. Inside these structures, a mix of elegance and technology is meant to impress the 100,000 or so tourists and buyers who visit the show each year.

	“Brands are very powerful with watches. Much more so than high jewelry,” explains Mouawad, who notes that some models can top $1 million even without being set with many carats of diamonds and other gemstones. The cost is a result of the design and workmanship – most high luxury watches have extremely complex analog movements that, beyond keeping time, follow the cycles of the moon. They also include calendars and sport functions, such as a stop-watch.

	“Some of these cost more than $100,000 to produce, even before the designs and casing,” Mouawad says.

 Graff has remained in the bling game with the Pink Princess Butterfly watch, which contains 25 carats of fancy pink color pear-shaped diamonds. The butterfly wings open to reveal the secret dial. Photo courtesy of Graff

	Mouawad notes that demand for high-end watches in China is shifting toward more complex movements and limited edition collectors’ pieces. In the Middle East, he adds, buyers still want jeweled watches, but the realities of today’s economy have trimmed demand. Although the U.S. is still a growth market, consumers there, like those in other markets around the world, are opting for more distinctively designed pieces with collector appeal. @chapter:32 @chapter:3 @chapter:32


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Coronavirus May Cut Chinese Demand, Diamond Companies See Better Times
# Abstract: The coronavirus epidemic prompted the management of the Hong Kong Gem and Jewellery Show to move the March event to May, fearing the large crowds it draws may spread the disease. Photo by Russell Shor/GIA

Images of empty commercial streets and shopping malls in China fill the news as the coronavirus spreads throughout the country. The management of the Hong Kong Gem and Jewellery Show has moved the event from early March to mid-May because of concerns about the epidemic. In addition, the Hong Kong government has cut off 10 of 13 entry points at the Hong Kong-mainland border and many flights have been suspended in an effort to slow the spread of the disease.
The impact of this will likely cut deeply into the economies of mainland China and Hong Kong, where stock markets have plunged more than 8% after reopening following the New Year’s break. Mainland tourism accounts for about 70% of Hong Kong’s retail business. Retailers, including jewelry sellers Chow Tai Fook and Pandora, have shut stores throughout the country.
While it is too early to get specific data from retailers and suppliers, gold dealers said demand from China hit “record lows” in the last two weeks of January ‒ usually a time when the New Year boosts sales. On the mainland, the government extended the New Year holiday to keep people home – and home they stayed, with city streets deserted, even in the capital of Beijing. The government has injected some $22 billion into the economy in the form of credit to tide it through the crisis.
The World Health Organization predicts that the virus epidemic is only in its early stages and that it will spread well beyond the affected areas of the country. According to economists, this could have a profound effect on the world economy. Beyond its leading consumer market role, China is an integral part of the global supply chain and prolonged disruptions there could adversely affect many markets around the world, especially electronics which, in time, could slow world economic growth several percentage points. Hyundai, the Korean automaker, announced that it is closing its factories because they have run out of key components from China.
DIAMOND ROUGH
The major diamond producers believe the crisis in the rough market ‒ oversupplies bringing softening prices and cutbacks in bank credit ‒ has eased. Some diamond cutting firms who find their credit restricted and cash flow spotty aren’t so sure, but for now De Beers, Alrosa and others have reopened the spigots.
De Beers’ January cycle of $545 million was 9% higher than the first sale of 2019 and the highest in nine months, reflecting the company’s confidence that the supply overhang that depressed prices and demand last year has abated. Alrosa has not yet announced the results of its Jan. 17-21 sales, but the company stated it believes the diamond market is close to “alignment.”
De Beers’ CEO Bruce Cleaver said in a statement that demand for rough diamonds was up following the fourth quarter holiday season because clients needed to restock. De Beers’ sales plunged by 25% last year.
The company, however, clearly has no plans to go back to business as usual. It has been widely reported that De Beers will be shaking up its client list at the end of the year. While few details have been forthcoming, it is probably a 2020 version of its “fewer, stronger, hands” policy that it adopted following the 1980s crisis, with goods that flow more toward dealers without large factories to support, rather than manufacturers.
De Beers’ criteria for becoming a client, which it calls “demonstrated demand,” basically requires firms to purchase a contracted quantity of rough each cycle during the length of the agreement. Many clients, however, had to defer purchases last year, or even sold goods back to De Beers, because they were unprofitable to cut.
Indeed, the 2019 crisis was hardly the first crisis set off by overstocking ‒ it also happened in 2015 and, of course, 2009-2010, when the world economy itself was in crisis. Even before then, many analysts believed that there was an excess of diamond manufacturing capacity of 20% or more, but with the banks supplying credit, manufacturers could afford to store the excess stones.
Alrosa, the world’s largest producer by volume, stockpiled diamonds last year instead of trying to sell them to over-stretched clients – its rough inventory increased by 33%, according to Alrosa’s latest earnings announcement.
The company’s sales were down 26% by value at $3.27 billion, and 12.4% by volume (33.4 million carats) last year. Its inventory grew by five million carats to 22.6 million – or two-thirds of its 2019 sales volume. The size of Alrosa’s inventory suggests that, ironically, it has taken De Beers’ former role of market custodian, stockpiling goods in slow times.
Rio Tinto, the third largest diamond producer, announced that its diamond production declined 8% to 17 million carats last year as the company shifted production to lower grades in both Diavik (Canada) and Argyle (Australia) – often a strategy to avoid over-production.
While Rio Tinto’s Argyle Mine is known for the few hundred carats of fancy color pink diamonds it produces each year, the majority of the 14 or so million carats it produces are small, lower quality stones that have been under considerable price pressure.
It is encouraging, however, that Rio Tinto wants to stay in the diamond business after Argyle closes at the end of this year and Diavik closes in 2023. It wants to take a 60% stake in the Canadian Orion South project, which is a producer of higher-value diamonds. The deposit could be an important source of Type IIa colorless diamonds.
GOLD JEWELRY
Weakening currencies and slowing economic growth pushed demand for gold jewelry to its lowest point in a decade during the final quarter of 2019, according to the World Gold Council.
The group reported demand in India fell 17% in the final quarter of the year, compared to the same period of 2018. Chinese demand also fell 10% as trade disputes with the U.S. and rising prices took their toll. In addition, young buyers have been shying away from plain gold toward more fashion-oriented designs that use much less of the metal, according to the Council.
In the U.S., demand for gold rose 2%, but that was not enough to offset the declines in India and China.
Global demand for gold from all industries – electronics, financial, medical and investment ‒ fell 1% for the year. @chapter:32 @chapter:3 @chapter:32


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Industry Analysis: Confidence Returns to Early Shows
# Abstract: Signs of confidence in the world diamond and jewelry markets have sprung at key trade shows, despite the continued uncertainty in the world economy.

The late January Vicenza show saw strong international buying as Italian designers, who previously mainly focused on high-end pieces, tried to broaden their appeal with colorful, fashionable pieces made with attractive, but lower cost, gemstones set in low-karat gold or alternate metals. This move from high-karat gold coincided with a renewed influx of buyers from around the world.

In the U.S., the Centurion Show in Scottsdale, Arizona, which focused primarily on high-end independent jewelers, saw strong buying across the board, especially for distinctive designer pieces and higher quality diamonds and gemstones. Buying at the various Tucson gem shows was also much stronger than expected, especially because traffic appeared to be down from previous years. Prices for top gems – such as unheated ruby and sapphire, and Colombian emerald – were still extremely strong. Even attractive lower-cost stones saw substantial increases from the previous year. According to attendee reports, dealers attributed the higher prices to the strong increase in demand from Asia.

This renewed confidence coincides with a report from the Organization for Economic Cooperation and Development (OECD) that noted firming economic growth in key markets such as the U.S. and Japan. The OECD forecasts, however, that China and India may see “growth below [the] trend” of past years. Growth in gem and jewelry sales in China has been spotty, largely confined to so-called “third-tier” cities (medium-sized inland cities underserved by retailers) in the past year.

Blue Nile’s numbers also give reason for optimism. The company’s engagement ring sales jumped 31% during the final quarter of 2012 compared to the previous year. Its quarterly sales of $136.1 million were the highest since 2007, before the world economic crisis hit. The company reported that its non-bridal diamond sales were below expectations because of a decline in discretionary spending this past season. To address this, CEO Harvey Kanter noted that the company would offer more classically designed pieces in place of very trendy ones.

Richemont, parent company of Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, cited the China slowdown as the reason for its slow sales in Asia for the final quarter of 2012. The company said fourth quarter sales in that region were flat compared to a 5% increase in North America. Richemont also noted that the uncertain economy of China made it difficult to forecast the state of business this year.

DIAMONDS: The diamond industry is awaiting De Beers’ February sight (Feb. 25-28). The general sentiment is for a relatively small sight because, while the firming world economy may help in the long run, diamond manufacturers still face liquidity issues as banks continue to tighten credit lines. The January sight of $450 million was smaller than expected, and the trade welcomed the stable prices. De Beers, and indeed other diamond producers, however, are under enormous pressure to increase revenues by raising prices.

Anglo American Corp., De Beers’ parent company, is seeking to raise revenue after several of its acquisitions ran into difficulty (primarily the Minas Rio project in Brazil) and in the face of more aggressive wage and benefit demands from labor unions. De Beers also encountered costly production problems at its largest mine, Jwaneng, last year.

Alrosa, the world’s second largest diamond producer by value, is engaged in costly mine redevelopment projects and appears to be moving to fill the supply gaps left by De Beers’ production problems. Reports from Antwerp say Alrosa has begun to sell rough in large quantities at prices comparable to De Beers.

Other producers, including BHP Billiton and Rio Tinto, are trying to boost revenues for the possible sale of their diamond operations. @chapter:32 @chapter:3 @chapter:32


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Behind the Scenes of the World’s Most Iconic Luxury Jewelers
# Abstract: GIA and French Connection Films/Quasar Multimedia hosted the U.S. West Coast premiere of Masters of Dreams on Sept. 18, 2013.

	This fascinating four-part documentary series provides a rare look at 13 renowned jewelers around the world: Boucheron, Buccellati, Bulgari, Chaumet, Chopard, Damiani, De Beers Jewellery, Forevermark, Graff Diamonds, H. Stern, John Hardy, Stephen Webster and Verdura.

	The films offer a behind-the-scenes view into the glamorous and artistic world of high-end jewelry. Filmmaker Ken McGrath, GIA GG, knew convincing prominent jewelry houses to open their doors for the cameras would be challenging, but he wanted to show jewelry lovers what is involved in designing and fabricating luxury pieces.

Masters of Dreams follows the journey from design concept to finished creation at each jewelry house. The films show who designs the jewelry, where they find their inspiration, the reasons behind their metal and gemstone choices and where they work. It includes in-depth interviews with the people behind the brand and explores the values each brand reflects.

	The production quality and attention to detail in each segment is outstanding. Viewers will find the stories and processes ‒ such as watching a designer create their vision on paper and artisans crafting and engraving metals ‒ interesting and inspiring.

	Consumers will enjoy seeing how high-end jewelry is created. Gemologists will appreciate watching how gems are incorporated into jewelry. Designers and manufacturers will benefit from the chance to see how these firms create and maintain their success.

	Episode one, The Italian Jewellers, showcases the prominent Italian jewelry firms of Damiani, Bulgari and Buccellati. It was shown at the premiere held at GIA’s world headquarters in Carlsbad.

Damiani:

	This family business was founded in 1924 by Enrico Grassi Damiani in Valenza, an important jewelry manufacturing center in Italy. Following in the footsteps of their grandfather, Guido, Giorgio and Silva Damiani run the company. Their jewelry designs have received many prestigious awards and they have been recognized for their involvement in humanitarian projects. Several celebrities have collaborated with Damiani to produce special pieces for the company’s high-profile clientele.

	Giorgio Damiani, inspired by the film Burlesque starring Christina Aguilera and Cher, asked designer Christina Bagnari to create something special using the costumes as her inspiration. The segment follows the entire process, beginning with Bagnari’s sketches and her collaboration with one of their graphic designers to create a 3-D model. Giorgio Damiani sourced the diamonds in Antwerp and the set is complete, including a clasp on the bracelet that closes it like an actual corset. It was worn by actress Sharon Stone at a press event for the reopening of Damiani’s boutique in Milan.

Bulgari:

	Sotirios Voulgaris, a Greek silver merchant, traveled to Rome in the 1880s and opened a small boutique that has since become an empire, the renowned house of Bulgari. Now owned by LVMH, his grandsons Paolo and Nicolo Bulgari still supervise the creation of the jewels today.

	“Colored stones, to Bulgari, are like colors to a painter,” says Lucia Silvestri, Bulgari’s gemstone buyer, in the film. She describes the creative process that went into setting an extraordinary 165-carat sapphire. She initially planned to alternate blue and green gems in a delicate design, but decided instead to set it in a bold piece featuring multiple strands of red, orange, blue and green gems. The finished necklace was displayed at the Biennale des Antiquaires in Paris.

	Filmmakers also captured the excitement during the auction of the Elizabeth Taylor Collection in New York. Taylor discovered Bulgari while working on the film “Cleopatra” in Rome in 1962. To celebrate their wedding, Richard Burton purchased the “Seven Wonders,” a necklace set with seven Colombian emeralds totaling 188 carats. He also purchased an incredible 65-carat Burmese sapphire sautoir for her 40th birthday.

	Amanda Triossi went with Silvestri to the Taylor auction to buy back these two exceptional Bulgari pieces that represent Bulgari’s design aesthetic: colored gems as the prominent feature, along with rounded shapes, cabochon-cut gemstones and symmetrical designs. The two successfully acquired the pieces – after tense bouts of bidding ‒ and the iconic necklaces were included in Bulgari’s retrospective exhibition, “125 years of Italian Excellence,” curated by Triossi in Shanghai.

Buccellati:

	The jewelry house Buccellati has been crafting fine jewelry in Milan since 1919. Still a family business, Gianmaria Buccellati, son of founder Mario Buccellati, describes how jewels originate in his mind before he creates life-size drawings by hand. His intricate designs are usually one-of-a-kind pieces, but are occasionally made in limited productions.

	Buccellati is inspired by nature and the architecture of the Renaissance period. He sometimes creates jewels in the form of animals using baroque pearls as the body as was popular during that period. His signature pieces often have the look and feel of fine lace and fabric. Metal surfaces are hand-engraved and embellished. Quality is of the utmost importance to Buccellatti.

Masters of Dreams follows the creative process from Gianmaria Buccellati’s initial rendering to the finished necklace. Master craftsmen use traditional techniques to execute his striking designs. Just as creativity has been passed down from generation to generation, quality craftsmanship has too. Buccellati employs only two jewelers, Roberto Brown and his son Christiano, and together they manufacture these difficult, complex pieces.

Cathy Jonathan is a graduate gemologist and a research librarian at the Richard T. Liddicoat Library and Information Center in Carlsbad. @chapter:45 @chapter:2 @chapter:45


# Publication Year: 2023
# Title: Large Stellate Dislocation in Spinel
# Abstract: Stellate dislocations decorate the interior of a greenish blue spinel believed to be from Vietnam. Photomicrograph by Ezgi Kiyak; field of view 4.79 mm.
The author recently examined a 4.49 ct greenish blue spinel exhibiting a prominent stellate inclusion characterized by a network of needle-like dislocations clustered in a six-rayed star pattern (see above). The inclusion was large enough to be readily observed without magnification.
Star-like needles have been previously documented in spinel originating from Vietnam. These findings contribute to our understanding of spinel and its origins, providing valuable information for gemologists. This is one of the most remarkable stellate inclusions the author has observed in a spinel. @chapter:26 @chapter:0 @chapter:26


# Publication Year: 1996
# Title: Russian Flux-Grown Synthetic Alexandrite
# Abstract: Synthetic alexandrite is being flux-grown in Russia in a molybdenum-, bismuth-, and germanium-bearing solvent by means of the reverse-temperature gradient method. Characteristic properties include habit, twinning, growth patterns, residual flux inclusions, trace-element contents, chemical zoning, color zoning, and spectroscopic features in the visible and infrared ranges. The relationship between production technique and characteristic properties is discussed, and diagnostic properties that can be used to distinguish these synthetics from natural alexandrite are disclosed. @chapter:13 @chapter:0 @chapter:13


# Publication Year: 2006
# Title: Winter 2006 G&G Book Reviews
# Abstract: “Agates: Treasures of the Earth”
By Roger Pabian with Brian Jackson, Peter Tandy, and John Cromartie, 184 pp., illus., publ. by Firefly Books, Buffalo, NY, 2006. US$35.00

“Bling Bling: Hip Hop’s Crown Jewels”
By Minya Oh, 208 pp., illus., publ. by Wenner Books, New York, 2005. US$27.50

“Masterpieces of French Jewelry from American Collections”
By Judith Price, 144 pp., illus., publ. by Running Press, Philadelphia, PA, 2006. US$29.95

“The Jeweler’s Directory of Gemstones”
By Judith Crowe, 176 pp., illus., publ. by Firefly Books, Buffalo, NY, 2006. US$29.95

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:28 @chapter:2 @chapter:28


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Fall 2021 G&G Available Now
# Abstract: The Fall issue presents the second article in a three-part series on Pinctada maxima with a detailed documentation of the internal structures of cultured pearls. The next two articles present unique findings: the first identification of sudoite in as a lapidary material and the first reported example of specific chromophores causing a purple color in spinel. Lastly, a field report highlights the current state of mining and production at Neyshabur, Iran’s largest turquoise mine.
Internal Structures of Known Pinctada maxima Pearls: Cultured Pearls from Operated Marine Mollusks
The lead article, by Artitaya Homkrajae and co-authors, studies the internal structures of 74 non-bead cultured (NBC) and 12 bead cultured (BC) pearls harvested directly from farmed mollusks off the coast of Western Australia. Characteristic internal features of most NBC samples allowed separation from their natural counterparts, with a few exceptions that proved challenging and could result in an inconclusive call in a laboratory.
First Identification of Sudoite in Caribbean Ceramic-Age Lapidary Craftsmanship
A research team led by Alain Queffelec examines nine sudoite artifacts from several archaeological sites in the French West Indies. This material was previously unknown in sizes large enough for carving and has never before been identified in lapidary craft.
Purple Gem Spinel from Vietnam and Afghanistan: Comparison of Trace Element Chemistry, Cause of Color, and Inclusions
Philippe Belley and Aaron Palke investigate the chromophore combinations responsible for the purple coloration in two spinel samples from Vietnam and Afghanistan. This article presents the first reported example of chromium and cobalt causing the saturated purple color in a gem spinel.
Persian Turquoise: The Ancient Treasure of Neyshabur
This field report by Bahareh Shirdam and co-authors describes the current state of the Neyshabur turquoise mine, located in northeastern Iran. The authors highlight the local geology, mining techniques, and turquoise production from mine to market.
Lab Notes
GIA laboratory staff members present their latest findings in the Lab Notes section, including multiple fossilized shells composed primarily of emerald, a parcel of manufactured glass masquerading as blue star sapphire, and a batch of large CVD-grown diamonds with high clarity and color for as-grown material, which offers insight into potential new growth conditions.
Micro-World
The Micro-World section, dedicated to the inner world of gemstones, features an apatite crystal suspended over a cloud of rutile silk in a blue star sapphire, a diamond cut to showcase an octahedral-shaped cloud inclusion, a fractal-like hematite inclusion resembling a rose in aquamarine, and Chinese ruby with fluid inclusions in the shape of a snake and fish.
Gem News International
Finally, GNI correspondents from around the world report on the first rough Mozambican ruby auction held by Fura Gems, the identification of pink aventurine quartz with alurgite inclusions, spectroscopic characteristics of blue to violet spinel heated at low temperature, and the announcement of the GIA Library and Museum Facebook group. @chapter:54 @chapter:4 @chapter:54


# Publication Year: 2022
# Title: “Boomerang” Inclusion in a Rough Topaz
# Abstract: The “boomerang” inclusion in this topaz was confirmed by Raman spectroscopy to be a twinned crystal of tantalite-(Mn). Photomicrograph by Shu-Hong Lin; field of view 0.71 mm.
A 21.46 ct colorless rough topaz was recently submitted to Taiwan Union Lab of Gem Research (TULAB) for identification service. Microscopic observation showed a few prismatic brown inclusions with submetallic luster. One of the inclusions was a unique twinned crystal composed of two prismatic crystals forming a 120° intersection angle. With its shape and backdrop, the twinned crystal resembled a boomerang flying across the sky (see above). This inclusion was later confirmed to be tantalite-(Mn), based on Raman spectroscopy and comparison with the RRUFF database. Polarized light and reflected illumination were adopted to reduce doubling and obtain clearer photomicrographs, and the images were processed to extend depth of field. @chapter:8 @chapter:0 @chapter:8


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Iolite Description
# Abstract: The color of fine-quality iolite can sometimes rival that of sapphire or tanzanite. – Robert Weldon

                      When tanzanite was first discovered, gemologists initially suspected it might be cordierite, a transparent, pleochroic, violet-blue gem known for thousands of years. Today, cordierite (named after geologist Pierre Cordier) is better known by its trade name, iolite, which comes from the Greek word “ios,” meaning “violet.”

Iolite’s strong pleochroism makes the gem tricky to cut for best color. This in turn continues to pose challenges to producers and buyers interested in promoting the attractive yet problematic gem to retailers as an affordable blue-gem alternative.

	In the hands of a skilled cutter, iolite’s beauty can be revealed.
This silicate of aluminum, iron, and magnesium has two distinctive features—a beautiful, violetish blue through slightly violetish blue hue derived from iron and a striking, eye-visible pleochroism. Its pleochroic colors differ with its bodycolor. Iolites that appear violet display light violet, dark violet, and yellow-brown pleochroic colors. Bluish iolites display colorless to yellow, blue-gray, and dark violet pleochroic colors. From some angles, then, a bluish iolite can actually appear completely colorless or yellow, and a violetish iolite can look brown.

Iolites are usually cut as faceted gems, but they are also frequently cut into cabochons.

The size range for a fashioned iolite is anywhere from 1 to 10 carats. Fine iolites over 5 carats are rare.

Iolite falls at 7 to 7.5 on the Mohs hardness scale, but given that it has distinct cleavage in one direction, its toughness is only fair. This makes iolite vulnerable to breakage when set in a ring or other setting exposed to rough daily wear.

Unlike tanzanite, iolite is rarely treated. Fine iolite comes by its beautiful blues and violets naturally. Its freedom from enhancement other than normal cutting and polishing is a selling point when customers consider that most blue gems, from inexpensive blue topaz to fine sapphire, receive routine treatment of one type or another.

	Iolite is not routinely treated, which is an attractive feature for some consumers. – Robert Weldon, courtesy Max Faulkner
Of course, not all iolite shows fine color. Some gems can look grayish or nearly colorless. If the trade were able to treat these less desirable iolites to produce a better, more salable color, it would. However, iolite’s chemistry won’t allow it. Interestingly, the deep blues of some iolites are thought to have the same cause (an iron-titanium charge transfer) as the blue in sapphire. Unlike sapphire, however, iolite can’t be heat-treated to intensify its blue color because its low melting point won’t tolerate the high temperatures to which corundum is routinely subjected.

Because iolite is fairly hard it’s often found in alluvial deposits. In addition to the gem gravels of Sri Lanka, iolite occurs in several areas of Africa, including Kenya and central Tanzania. Other iolite source countries include India, Brazil, and Norway. A significant iolite deposit was discovered in Madagascar in 1994.

Iolite has yet to catch on with retailers as dramatically as tanzanite did in the 1970s and 1980s. Why not? Experts believe that jewelry designers and retailers have yet to see a consistent enough supply of iolite in uniform fine quality to feel confident in ordering a broad and deep selection of the material for their workshops and stores. @chapter:16 @chapter:0 @chapter:16


# Publication Year: 2013
# Title: Diamond Street: The Hidden World of Hatton Garden
# Abstract: Hatton Garden is a famous area in London where jewelry has been manufactured since medieval times, and it continues to be known as a fine jewelry and diamond center. The author reveals the history of the jewelry trade there and offers stories about the people, culture, and lore of this fascinating district.

Reviewed by GIA Library Staff
Carlsbad, California @chapter:25 @chapter:2 @chapter:25


# Publication Year: 1992
# Title: An Update on Sumitomo Gem-Quality Synthetic Diamonds
# Abstract: Examination of two large (5.06 and 5.09 ct) tabular pieces of Sumitomo synthetic diamond revealed that they were cut from single crystals of predominantly cubic {100} and octahedral {111} morphologies, respectively. These two crystal forms exhibit different patterns of color zoning, internal graining, anomalous birefringence ("strain”), and luminescence. Such differences suggest that both crystal morphology and size can greatly affect the properties observed in a synthetic diamond. @chapter:36 @chapter:1 @chapter:36


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Fall Fashion Ideas: Orange Gems
# Abstract: Think icy sherbet…A sumptuous glass of orange juice…Stunning autumn leaves…A vivid sunset. Orange – this unexpected color is a refreshing trend. Mother Nature did some of her best gemstone work with her paintbrush dipped in orange, and this ever-appealing color is an increasingly popular choice in jewelry, too.

Orange gemstones stand out and shine, adding zest to any wardrobe. Orange gemstones are classic – they have graced fashions for centuries and are always in style.

Consider some orangey-hued gemstones: Sapphire. Garnet. Fire Opal. Topaz. Citrine. Where do they come from? What makes them special? What do they cost? Let’s take a look at a few outrageous oranges, and find out more about these gemstones from the experts at GIA (Gemological Institute of America), the world’s foremost authority in gemology.

Fancy Sapphire, a variety of the mineral corundum, features orange among many appealing hues. An especially alluring orange-pink color is called padparadscha, after the lotus blossom. GIA’s gem experts point out that this latter variety is very rare and ranges from pastels to more fiery shades. The best examples of authentic padparadscha sapphire usually command a premium price, often equal to their fine blue counterparts. Sri Lanka and East Africa are major sources of orange and padparadscha sapphire.

Spessartine Garnet is perhaps the most eye-catching orangey gemstone around. According to GIA’s colored stone experts, it is prized for its bright orangy-yellow to yellowish-orange color, with some of the best – and most sought after – examples mined in Southern California, at the Little Three mine, near Ramona. High-qualilty spessartine has more recently been mined in Namibia and Nigeria.

Mandarin Garnet is a trade name for bright orange spessartine from Namibia. Although relatively inexpensive in small sizes, larger stones (which rarely exceed 10 carats) can fetch significant prices. The rich color of Mandarin garnet makes it a favorite of orange gemstone lovers worldwide.

Fire Opal is an anomaly in the opal family. Opals are usually smoothly polished in a cabochon (domed) shape, mined in Australia, and are opaque (not see-through). But the intriguing fire opal is often found in a fabulous orange color, cut in a faceted manner, mined in Mexico, and is mostly transparent in better quality facet-grades. And it’s also found at favorable prices in jewelry this season.

Topaz is another gemstone that is found in various colors, such as yellow, dark blue, pink, red, and light green, but it truly shines in orange. Fine orange and “imperial topaz” (orange with a hint of red) are among the rarer colors of topaz, and their higher prices reflect their scarcity. This unusual shade is mostly found in Brazil.

Citrine, a variety of the mineral quartz, can appear in an orange shade, called Madeira, although it’s most often seen in one of its yellow coats. Mined mainly in Brazil, citrine is often found in larger sizes, due to its affordable price, and it is easy to find.

There’s no right or wrong when choosing an orange shade or a type of jewelry. Whether your passion is a big pair of earrings in citrine or topaz, a fire opal brooch, a mandarin garnet pendant, or a sapphire centered in a ring, this season’s best look for you could be in shades of orange.

When shopping for gemstones, look for a jeweler who is a Graduate Gemologist or Graduate Jeweler. GIA also offers identification reports on gemstones, including those discussed here, to verify their authenticity. @chapter:31 @chapter:2 @chapter:31


# Publication Year: 2024
# Title: Israel's Latest Foreign Trade and Diamond Trade Trends

# Abstract: Israel's Foreign Trade in April 2024

**Export and Import Data (Excluding Diamonds)**

In April 2024, the Central Bureau of Statistics reported that Israel's export of goods (excluding diamonds) amounted to NIS 17.2 billion. The export distribution was as follows:
- **Europe**: 41%
- **America**: 26%
- **Asia**: 21%
- **Other regions**: 12%

On the import side, Israel imported goods (excluding diamonds) worth NIS 24.4 billion. The import distribution was as follows:
- **Europe**: 47%
- **Asia**: 25%
- **America**: 13%
- **Other regions**: 15%

This resulted in a trade deficit of NIS 7.2 billion for goods excluding diamonds.

**Trends and Notable Changes**

The data also highlighted significant trends in recent months (February - April 2024):
- Exports to China increased by 30.3%.
- Imports from the United States increased by 12.8%.

Car Imports

The Tax Authority released data on durable goods imports for May 2024, showing a significant decline in vehicle imports:
- **Private Vehicles**: 22,612 units in May 2024, down 22.2% from 29,069 units in May 2023.
- **Commercial Vehicles (e.g., trucks)**: 768 units in May 2024, down 35.8% from 1,197 units in May 2023.

From January to May 2024, Israel imported 86,132 vehicles, a 26.5% decrease from 117,244 units during the same period in the previous year. This trend suggests a moderate decline in passenger vehicle imports starting from March 2023.

The total value of imports in May 2024 was $7.2 billion, a 10% decrease compared to May 2023.

Diamond Trade Trends

The diamond trade in Israel showed mixed trends at the end of May 2024. Over the first five months of 2024:
- **Rough Diamond Imports**: Valued at approximately $503 million, up 5.5% compared to the same period last year. May 2024 alone saw a 20% increase compared to May 2023.
- **Rough Diamond Exports**: Valued at approximately $401 million, up 7% year-on-year, with a 260% increase in May 2024 compared to May 2023.
- **Polished Diamond Imports**: Valued at approximately $705 million, down 38% compared to the same period last year. May 2024 saw a 49% decline compared to May 2023.
- **Polished Diamond Exports**: Valued at approximately $1.2 billion, down 29% compared to the same period last year, with a 30% decline in May 2024 compared to May 2023.

These figures indicate a decline in the polished diamond trade and growth in the rough diamond trade.

 Comments and Recommendations

As of January-May 2024, Israel is Thailand's 41st largest trading partner and the 5th largest in the Middle East. The trade value between Thailand and Israel during this period was THB 18.504 billion, with a trade surplus of THB 5.030 billion in favor of Thailand. Thailand's exports to Israel were valued at THB 11.767 billion, a 5.76% decrease, while imports from Israel increased by 15.06% to THB 6.737 billion.

In 2023, Thailand's exports to Israel were valued at THB 26.704 billion, a 10.17% decrease from 2022. The top five export items from Thailand to Israel in January-May 2024 were canned and processed seafood, cars and parts, gems and jewelry, rice, and refrigerators and freezers and parts. The top five import items from Israel were gems and jewelry, electrical machinery and parts, fertilizers and pesticides, and vegetables and fruits and their preparations, as well as scientific and medical instruments. @chapter:37 @chapter:3 @chapter:37


# Publication Year: 2016
# Title: Mobile Fluorite in Quartz
# Abstract: Figure 1. This violet-colored fluorite crystal was free to move in its octahedral void, as seen in four different positions. Photomicrographs by Nathan Renfro; field of view 7.18 mm.

	In 2005, a deposit in Madagascar yielded quartz that showed beautiful blue to purple octahedral fluorite crystal inclusions (Summer 2005 GNI, pp. 180–181). This author recently examined a unique example of this material in which a fluorite crystal was much smaller than the cavity it occupied (figure 1). The difference in size allowed the fluorite to move freely within the void. Also present in the void and surrounding the fluorite crystal were an aqueous liquid and a small gas bubble. Because the cavity was an octahedron, a shape not related to quartz morphology, it is assumed that the fluorite was originally much larger and defined the shape of the void while in that larger state. Also observed was a secondary healed crack that broke from the surface of the quartz to the void while it was still in the growth environment. This crack allowed fluids that were not in equilibrium with the fluorite to partially dissolve it before the crack healed, trapping the much smaller fluorite remnant in the void. Mobile inclusions in gems such as this example are rare and fascinating to observe. @chapter:15 @chapter:0 @chapter:15


# Publication Year: 2014
# Title: Diamond, Artificially Irradiated and Coated Brown
# Abstract: Figure 1. The diamond with a Fancy reddish brown color (left) was revealed to be Fancy Dark orangy brown once the coating and red hue were removed (right). Photos by Jian Xin (Jae) Liao.

              Red is arguably the rarest and most valued color in diamond. It is known to bring record-breaking prices at auction, as in the case of the 0.95 ct Hancock Red, which sold for nearly $1 million per carat in 1987. Some will go to great lengths to achieve this color, even resorting to unusual multiple treatments.

The New York laboratory recently examined a Fancy reddish brown 0.28 ct round brilliant diamond submitted for color origin identification (figure 1). Spectroscopic analysis immediately revealed that it had been artificially irradiated to create the reddish brown color. The presence of an amber center, identified by infrared spectra, indicated that this diamond was likely brown prior to treatment. Further investigation using the DiamondView determined that the stone’s pavilion facets had also been coated, a feature not apparent with microscopic observation. DiamondView images displayed weak luminescence, with more intense luminescence concentrated at facet edges, junctions, and where the stone had been scratched. Boiling removed the coating, eradicating the red component and changing the color grade to Fancy Dark orangy brown. Removing the coating also produced a much more luminescent DiamondView image (figure 2).

Figure 2. DiamondView images of the diamond with the coating (top row) and after the coating’s removal (bottom row). The dark spots in the bottom left image are remnants of the coating substance. Images by Paul Johnson.
This stone indicates an attempt to induce red color in diamond, presumably to increase the value. Although this effort proved unsuccessful, it emphasizes the need for vigilance when analyzing diamonds with rare color. Their appeal, and the number of treatment techniques to create these colors, is sure to grow. @chapter:29 @chapter:1 @chapter:29


# Publication Year: 1981
# Title: Color In Gems: The New Technologies
# Abstract: Advances in technology have brought great advances in our ability to impart color to natural gemstones as well as to create synthetics. Simultaneously, technologies are also being developed to distinguish natural from artificial colors as well as natural from synthetic materials. This article discusses some of the work being done to enhance color in gemstones today and some of the techniques used by the laboratories at the California Institute of Technology to determine whether a color originates naturally or in the laboratory. Dyed jade, synthetic turquoise, heat-treated beryl and zircon, irradiated spodumene, and topaz that has been irradiated and heat treated to produce a pleasing blue color are some of the specific examples included. @chapter:16 @chapter:0 @chapter:16


# Publication Year: 2023
# Title: Fashion Jewelry Market Situation in China, 2025
# Abstract: 1. Overview of the Fashion Jewelry Market in China
Currently, Chinese consumers are increasingly opting for high-end consumer goods to meet their evolving lifestyle needs. Consequently, jewelry with unique designs and high value has become popular among general consumers in China. Moreover, the emergence of new consumer groups has led to evolving personal consumption preferences, driving a growing trend in jewelry consumption. This has created significant opportunities for the jewelry industry to further develop. Additionally, the younger generation in China has become a major consumer force, particularly those aged 20-39, who are expected to dominate the jewelry consumer market in the future. With rapid economic development and continuous income growth among the Chinese population, the jewelry industry in China has demonstrated rapid development trends from 2018 to 2023. By 2023, the Chinese jewelry market was worth 7.2 trillion yuan, an 18.03% increase year-on-year, indicating rapid growth.
In terms of jewelry consumption, the impact of the COVID-19 pandemic in 2020 slowed down wedding ceremonies in China, leading to increased demand for jewelry consumption in 2021. Additionally, the jewelry industry, particularly gold jewelry, has placed significant emphasis on the new generation market, considering both personal grooming and value preservation, thereby boosting jewelry consumption in China.
Various Types of Fashion Jewelry in the Chinese Market
Due to the increased diversity in jewelry consumption in China, the jewelry market has continually subdivided into various categories. Jewelry in China now includes a wide range of materials such as gold, platinum or white gold, jade, silver, diamonds, and colored gemstones. Notably, gold and platinum jewelry have shown substantial potential for development. In 2023, gold jewelry dominated the market share at 58.3%, followed by diamonds and jade, each holding market shares of 13.9%.
Jewelry reflects the tastes and values of consumers to a large extent. Generally, Chinese consumers favor gold jewelry across all eras due to its rarity and value-retaining properties, making it highly popular for special occasions like weddings, anniversaries, newborn celebrations, and festivals.
Currently, mainland Chinese and Hong Kong jewelry companies are focusing on domestic markets, particularly in eastern and southern China, primarily through a combination of self-operated stores and franchises to rapidly penetrate the market. Conversely, JH (Chow Sang Sang), a leading brand, remains committed to single-handedly operating its business model. Despite slower market expansion, effective store management has significantly enhanced brand reputation.
Upon reviewing business operations, it is evident that major companies in China primarily focus on precious metal jewelry businesses, such as gold and platinum, with Leysen being the sole operator focusing on diamond jewelry business. @chapter:32 @chapter:3 @chapter:32


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Amethyst History and Lore
# Abstract: This ancient necklace dates to 2000BCE. An inscription on the center stone is a South Arabian script from the 8th century BCE. - From "Gems and Gemstones: Timeless Natural Beauty of the Mineral World" by Lance Grande and Allison Augustyn, 2009, University of Chicago Press.

                      Because of its wine-like color, early Greek legends associated amethyst with Dionysus, the god of wine and pleasure. The Romans called him Bacchus. Other legends reflected beliefs that amethyst kept its wearer clear-headed and quick-witted in battle and in business affairs. Because amethyst was associated with wine, it was believed that wearing amethyst prevented drunkeness.

Fine amethysts have been set in religious jewelry and royal crown jewels for ages. It was once considered equal in value to ruby, emerald, and sapphire. It’s no wonder that fine amethyst adorns the fingers of bishops as well as the coronation regalia of British royalty.

Amethyst is the birthstone for February and one of the emblems of the twelve apostles. @chapter:55 @chapter:2 @chapter:55


# Publication Year: 2014
# Title: Books: The Collector's Guide to the Minerals of New York State
# Abstract: By Steven C. Chamberlain and George W. Robinson, 96 pp., softcover, illus., publ. by Schiffer Publishing, Ltd, Atglen, PA 2013. US$19.99.

              From the outset, authors Steven Chamberlain and George Robinson acknowledge that their goal was not a field guide, but rather a guide for mineral specimen appreciation. On the whole, it succeeds in this aim, and is worth its moderate price for those cultivating an interest in minerals of the Empire State.

In the introduction, the first of four chapters, Chamberlain and Robinson provide a brief positioning of the mineral sources of New York State. While there are no localities as important as Mont Saint-Hilaire in nearby Canada or Franklin, New Jersey, but it is of note that (starting with warwickite in 1838) twelve new mineral species have been discovered in New York. Some have become world-famous for their beauty, like the Herkimer diamonds, which could soon be designated as the official state mineral.

The authors devote an entire page to the important collections and collectors of New York minerals since the early 19th century, but only one page of text (plus ten references) to the geology of New York State. The other pages of this sub-section contain beautiful photos, though most do not contribute much to the illustration of the subject. The most important geological takeaway is that almost all mineralogically interesting occurrences are found in either sedimentary or crystalline rocks and in fractures within these rocks.

The following chapters are devoted to the description of the mineral occurrences. In contrast to conventional field guides, which are usually organized geographically, this book groups the localities according to the geology of the host rocks: occurrences in sedimentary rocks, in crystalline rocks, and in fractures. This is perhaps the most unique feature of the book. The description of each locality discusses the same aspects: its significance to specimen mineralogy, its location and history, its geological setting and origin, and the relevance of the minerals to collectors. Each chapter ends with a listing of similar occurrences (with GPS coordinates) and references.

As both authors are recognized as specialists in New York minerals, these chapters are a treasure trove of information, especially as they attached importance to include the latest research results and modern mineral nomenclature (e.g., the brown tourmaline from Bush Farm has now been identified as fluoruvite).

The authors claim that the guide’s organization is “a new approach that brings coherence to relationships among similar localities.” This seems plausible and is certainly true to some extent, as the relations between similar occurrences become more visible. My overall impression, however, is that the advantages of this approach do not reach as far as the authors probably hoped.

Apart from minor criticisms (What is the interest of the lengthy enumeration of collections and collectors? Shouldn’t the part on geology be elaborated a little more, especially as the basic approach of the book is based on it?) one question immediately comes to mind: Can the minerals of an entire state be adequately described in just 96 pages, a quarter of which is filled with (admittedly beautiful) color photos? Obviously, the authors recognized this and chose to limit themselves to the most important occurrences: While this book is too incomplete to serve as a field guide or to act as a comprehensive local mineralogy text, its merit lies in the attempt at a new approach, the well-written and up-to-date text and the sheer beauty of the photos. @chapter:21 @chapter:0 @chapter:21


# Publication Year: 2016
# Title: Durability of a Broken Glass-Filled Ruby
# Abstract: Figure 1. Left: The two pieces of a glass-filled ruby were combined to demonstrate its appearance before breaking. Center and right: The two pieces that broke during the setting process. Photos by Lai Tai-An Gem Lab.

	It is no secret that corundum is subjected to heating and fracture-filling treatments to alter its color and improve its clarity in order to increase the market value. Heat treatment in particular has become common practice and is generally accepted in the market, provided it is fully disclosed. The trade and end consumer are more concerned about the term “residue,” what it means, and how it affects the stone. Many heat-treated stones are easy to detect with magnification, and a recent case submitted to the Lai Tai-An Gem Laboratory involving a broken ruby revealed how heat treatment applied to rubies can influence durability.

	The client claimed that the ruby in question (figure 1) was broken into two pieces by a goldsmith who only applied standard pressure on the claws when setting the stone in a piece of jewelry. The ease with which the stone broke under these normal conditions caused the jeweler to submit the piece for examination.

	The original ruby measured 8.2 × 5.7 × 4.1 mm and weighed 2.08 ct, while the two pieces weighed 1.10 ct and 0.98 ct after the damage. Identical refractive index readings of 1.762–1.770 were obtained and a specific gravity of 4.00 was determined on each piece. Further observation under long-wave UV light revealed a weak red reaction, and Fourier transform infrared and Raman spectra were indicative of ruby. The stone’s natural origin was proved when extensive twinning, white acicular inclusions, and parting planes were observed through a gemological microscope. Some white flaky glass residues (figure 2) were also seen on broken surfaces, and numerous tiny gas bubbles were observed within some fractures. Flattened filler was also visible within the partially healed fractures (figure 3). When analyzed with a Micro-XRF M4 Tornado Bruker spectrometer, the filling material showed significant silica content.

	Figure 2. Visible white flaky "residue" seen on broken surfaces of the ruby. Photo by Lai Tai-An Gem Lab; field of view 4.25 mm.

	Figure 3. Areas of whitish filler were noted within some surface-reaching fractures. Photo by Lai Tai-An Gem Lab; field of view 4.8 mm.

	DiamondView observations revealed that the residue within some fractures was more opaque (figure 4), confirming the existence of glass filler. While the application of heat treatment together with glass filler usually improves a ruby’s clarity, some fractures may not heal completely. Since the starting material is often of low quality, the industry and consumers should be alert to the potential risk of damaging stones during the mounting process. Careful inspection of any stone prior to setting is recommended.

	Figure 4. These images show the appearance of the white silica glass filler residue on some fracture surfaces under normal lighting conditions (visible light, left) and as opaque dark areas against the bright red ruby reaction in the DiamondView (right). Photos by Lai Tai-An Gem Lab. @chapter:18 @chapter:0 @chapter:18


# Publication Year: 2005
# Title: Emeralds from the Kafubu Area, Zambia
# Abstract: Zambia is considered the world’s second most important source of emeralds by value (after Colombia). The deposits are located near the Kafubu River in the Ndola Rural Restricted Area. Emeralds have been known from this region since 1928, but significant commercial production began only in the 1970s. As of mid-2004, most of the emeralds were being mined from large open-pit operations at the Kagem, Grizzly, and Chantete concessions. Economic emerald mineralization is confined almost entirely to phlogopite reaction zones adjacent to Be-bearing quartz-tourmaline veins that metasomatically altered Cr-bearing metabasite host rocks. Nearly all of the rough is cut in India and Israel. Zambian emeralds have relatively high R.I. and S.G. values, with inclusions typically consisting of partially healed fissures, as well as actinolite, phlogopite, dravite, fluorapatite, magnetite, and hematite. They contain moderate amounts of Cr, Mg, and Na, moderate-to-high Fe contents, and relatively high Cs and Li. Although many features of Zambian emeralds are comparable to those from other commercially important localities, in many cases they may be separated by a combination of their physical properties, microscopic characteristics, and chemical composition.

	DATA DEPOSITORY

Table 1: Local Geological Terminology for the Kafubu Emerald Area
Table 2: Chemical Composition of Zambian Emeralds by Electron Microprobe
Figure: Fluid Inclusions in Zambian Emerald Containing CO2 and CH4

Submitted by Brendan M. Laurs
	August 18, 2005 @chapter:0 @chapter:0 @chapter:0


# Publication Year: 2021
# Title: Chanthaburi:The city of gem_4
# Abstract: The valuable stone You will have to start with diamonds. Diamonds need to be equal to 10, followed by Corundum Corundum and 9. Corundum is a gem that has 2 colors: red and another color that is not. If you use red instead, it's called ruby. Other colors are called sapphire, meaning blue sapphire. yellow sapphire pink sapphire green sapphire or anything translated into english. @chapter:40 @chapter:0 @chapter:40


# Publication Year: 2018
# Title: Update on Trace-Element Chemical Characteristics of Golden Sheen Sapphire
# Abstract: Figure 1. Eighteen of the 23 golden sheen sapphires examined for their trace-element chemical characteristics. The largest stone weighs 34 ct. Photo by Shunsuke Nagai.

GIA’s Tokyo laboratory recently examined 23 sapphires displaying a “golden sheen” effect, reportedly from Kenya (e.g., T.N. Bui et al., “From exsolution to ‘gold sheen’: A new variety of corundum,” Journal of Gemmology, Vol. 34, No. 8, 2015, pp. 678–691). Bui et al. (2015) were the first to describe gemological characteristics of golden sheen sapphires from Kenya; updated characteristics of inclusions, UV-Vis-NIR spectra, and chemistry of golden sheen material was published the following year (N. Narudeesombat et al., “Golden sheen and non-sheen sapphires from Kenya,” The Gem and Jewelry Institute of Thailand, July-August 2016, pp. 282–288; Winter 2016 Lab Notes, pp. 413–414). Here we update the gemological and chemical characteristics of the recently examined material, and compare the information with various sapphire sources including other golden sheen sapphire data previously documented.
We examined 15 cabochons, three faceted, and five rough stones (figure 1). The samples were semi-transparent to opaque, with a blue and yellow bodycolor and weight range of 1.75 to 34.00 ct. The cabochons displayed a “golden sheen” effect and/or golden six-ray asterism. For the polished samples, standard gemological testing revealed refractive index (RI) values of 1.760 to 1.770 and hydrostatic specific gravity (SG) values of 3.98–4.01, except for one densely included stone with an SG of 4.04 (see Lab Notes this issue, pp. 212–213). These SG values suggested that they were all corundum. The rough stones showed SG values of 3.82–4.01 and the Raman signatures of corundum.

Figure 2. Photomicrographs (left) and Raman spectra (right) of micro-inclusions in golden sheen sapphires: zircon inclusion with intersecting needles (A), hematite and goethite inclusion (B), diaspore and siderite inclusion (C), and dawsonite inclusion (D). Darkfield illumination (A, C, and D) and reflected light (B). Photomicrographs by Makoto Miura; fields of view 1 mm (A), 0.06 mm (B), and 0.8 mm (C and D).
The inclusions were similar to those in other golden sheen sapphires described by Bui et al. (2015) and Narudeesombat et al. (2016). Characteristics included dense clouds composed of brownish needles and platelets displaying a golden sheen effect. Raman analysis identified the needles as ilmenite and hematite, although their Raman signals were weak because of their thinness. Some showed six-ray asterism caused by reflection from dense clouds of oriented needles. Inclusion-free zones like the center stone and rough stones in figure 1 contained mineral crystals and healed fissures with negative crystals (see Lab Notes, pp. 212–213). Various euhedral to subhedral mineral inclusions (figure 2) were confirmed as hematite, diaspore, and zircon. Hematite was found as needles and euhedral crystals; these euhedral hematite crystals coexisted with goethite (figure 2B). Some carbonate minerals such as siderite (FeCO3) and dawsonite [NaAlCO3(OH)2] were found as irregular inclusions with a vein-like appearance, although their primary or secondary origin was unknown (figure 2D). Additionally, magnetite and mica (paragonite and muscovite series) were identified.

Figure 3. This ternary diagram shows the relationships between Fe, Mg, and Ti in golden sheen sapphires. Note that most of samples have similar Fe, Mg, and Ti content. Some of the yellow and included zones are rich in Mg and Ti.
Quantitative laser ablation–inductively coupled plasma–mass spectrometry (LA-ICP-MS) analysis of trace elements on the 23 samples—90 spots in total—is summarized in table 1 and figure 3. Six of the samples had both blue and yellow bodycolors, and only one had a single yellow bodycolor (again, see figure 1). The other 16 contained numerous inclusions and fractures, and were not clear in color distribution. Chemical analyses were conducted on three spots for each blue, yellow, and included zone. The blue zones had high Fe content ranging 2630 to 3486 ppma and low to medium V content of 0.13 to 0.37 ppma. Their Ti concentration was higher than their Mg content. Ga/Mg ratios for the blue zones varied from 3.50 to 25.35. The yellow zones showed similar Fe, V, and Ga contents as the blue zones, with high Fe (2923 to 3846 ppma), low to medium V (0.13 to 0.40 ppma), and Ga/Mg ratios of 7.78 to 10.06. Included zones also showed similar concentrations of all elements as the blue and yellow zones, although some spots tended to be slightly high in Fe, Ti, Al, and Ga. Enrichment in these elements probably indicates compositions of dense inclusion phases, because most of the inclusion phases were Fe-Ti oxides such as hematite and ilmenite, as documented by Bui et al. (2015) and Narudeesombat et al. (2016). G&G previously published that other trace elements, such as Zr, Nb, Ta, W, Th, and U, were enriched in the included zones of some golden sheen sapphires (again, see Winter 2016 Lab Notes, pp. 413-414). Only Ta and U were detected in our samples. Elements such as Na and K that can be considered to be related to inclusions were also detected in some spots on included zones.

While golden sheen sapphires are reportedly mined in northeastern Kenya, there is no other published chemical data available from this region. We compared our chemical characteristics with those of other samples documented in the Winter 2016 Lab Notes entry; metamorphic sapphires from Sri Lanka, Myanmar, and Madagascar; and basalt-related sapphires from Thailand, Australia, Nigeria, Kenya, and Cambodia (figure 4). Compositional data for metamorphic and basalt-related sapphires are from previously published articles (J.J. Peucat et al., “Ga/Mg ratio as a new geochemical tool to differentiate magmatic from metamorphic blue sapphires,” Lithos, Vol. 98, 2007, pp. 262–274; V. Pardieu et al., “Sapphires from the gem rush Bemainty area, Ambatondrazaka (Madagascar),” GIA News from Research, Feb. 24, 2017; W. Soonthorntantikul et al., “An in-depth gemological study of blue sapphires from the Baw Mar mine (Mogok, Myanmar),” GIA News from Research, Feb. 24, 2017; Fall 2017 GNI, pp. 380–382). As shown in figure 4, the samples in this study were similar to other golden sheen sapphires in Fe, Ga, and V contents. The Fe concentration and high Ga/Mg ratio (table 1) were far from those of metamorphic sapphires but close to those of some basalt-related sapphires. Kenya, where golden sheen sapphires may occur, has two known types of sapphire deposits; one is associated with alkali basalts from the Gregory Rift, an eastern branch of the African Rift Valley, and the other is associated with syenite (Peucat et al., 2007). Both types of sapphire showed a high Fe concentration and Ga/Mg ratio, which are similar to the chemical data in this study.

Figure 4. Log plots of chemical variations of Fe vs. Ga contents (expressed in ppma) in golden sheen sapphires. Only blue sapphire data was plotted.
The similarities in inclusions and trace-element composition between our samples and other golden sheen sapphires indicate that they possibly come from the same origin. A wide variety of inclusions observed in golden sheen sapphires suggests the specific condition during the formation processes. The presence of hematite inclusions especially implied formation in a highly oxidized environment. Further gemological studies are required to construct the database for origin determination. @chapter:10 @chapter:0 @chapter:10


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Fall 2010 G&G Book Reviews
# Abstract: “Cartier and America”
By Martin Chapman, 177 pp., illus., publ. by Prestel USA [prestel.txt9.de], New York, 2009. US$35.00

“High Jewelry by Cartier: Contemporary Creations”
Ed. by Suzanne Tise-Isoré, 265 pp., illus., publ. by Flammarion [editions.flammarion.com], Paris, 2009. US$125.00

“Gems and Gemstones: Timeless Natural Beauty of the Mineral World”
By Lance Grande and Allison Augustyn, 369 pp., illus., publ. by The University of Chicago Press [www.press.uchicago.edu], Chicago and London, 2009. US$45.00

“Between Eternity and History: Bulgari. From 1884 to 2009, 125 Years of Italian Jewels”
Edited by Amanda Triossi, 375 pp., illus., publ. by Skira Editore [www.skira.net], Milan, 2009. US$80.00

“Jewelry & Gems: The Buying Guide, 7th Ed.”
By Antoinette Matlins and A. C. Bonanno, 306 pp., illus., publ. by GemStone Press [www.gemstonepress.com], Woodstock, VT, 2009, US$19.99

“Contributions of the 4th International Symposium on Granitic Pegmatites”
Estudos Geológicos [www.ufpe.br/estudosgeologicos], Vol. 19, No. 2, 367 pp., 2009, US$25

“Exotic Gems, Volume 1”
By Renee Newman, 153 pp., illus., publ. by International Jewelry Publications [www.reneenewman.com], Los Angeles, 2010, US$19.95

“Agates II”
By Johann Zenz, 656 pp, illus., publ. by Bode Verlag [www.bodeverlag.de], Salzhemmendorf, Germany, 2010, €89

“Amber: The Natural Time Capsule”
By Andrew Ross, 112 pp., illus., publ. by Firefly Books [www.fireflybooks.com], Buffalo, NY, 2010, US$29.95

“Pearl Buying Guide, 5th Ed.”
By Renee Newman, 153 pp., illus., publ. by International Jewelry Publications [www.reneenewman.com], Los Angeles, 2010, US$19.95

“Gem and Ornamental Materials of Organic Origin”
By Maggie Campbell Pedersen, 268 pp., illus., publ. by NAG Press, London, 2010, £39.95

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:28 @chapter:2 @chapter:28