# Publication Year: 2000
# Title: Spring 2000 Gem News International
# Abstract: Tuscon 2000
Colored Stones and Organic Materials
            Amphiboles are Not Necessarily Jade
            Chitons in Jewelry
            Unusual Copal
            Newly Commercial Emerald Deposits in Colombia (La Pita and Polveros)
            Some New Examples of Drusy Hematite
            Orbicular Jasper from Madagascar
            Colorful Nephrite
            Tahitian and Australian “Keshi” Pearls
            Pyritized Ammonite from Russia, Sliced in a New Way
            An Update on Ruby and Sapphire from Chimwadzulu Hill, Malawi
            Another Locality in Paraíba for Cuprian Elbaite
            Tugtupite and Other Gem Materials from Greenland
            Large Faceted Zircon
Also Seen at Tucson (Including Gems & Gemology references)
            Pink and blue Madagascar sapphires (Summer 1999, Gem News, pp. 149-150)
            Nigerian pink tourmaline and rubellite (Winter 1998 Gem News, pp. 298-299)
            Spessartine (Spring 1999 Gem News p. 55; Winter 1999 Gem News, pp. 216-217)
            Multicolored sunstone from Oregon (Summer 1997 Gem News, p. 145)
            Russian demantoid garnets (Mattice et al., Fall 1999 G&G, pp. 151-152)
            Blue opal from Peru (Summer 1991, Gem News, pp. 120-121)
Treatments
            Moonstone with Dichroic Backing
            New Hues of Dyed Freshwater Cultured Pearls
            Heat-Treated Rubies: Glass or not Glass?
            Silicon Coating of Drusy Materials
Synthetics and Simulants
            Bicolored Synthetic Beryl, Resembling Tourmaline
Miscellaneous
            "Floating Diamonds” in Jewelry
            Bismuth Egg
Announcements
            GIA on the Internet
            Faceter’s Symposium 2000
            GANA Exhibit in Los Angeles
            Jewelry 2000
            Tourmaline 2000
            Gemstones at Upcoming Scientific Meetings

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:0 @chapter:0 @chapter:0


# Publication Year: 2018
# Title: New Plastic Imitation Opal from Kyocera
# Abstract: Figure 1. This new plastic opal imitation (left) shows a very pleasing play-of-color that does not have the classic "snakeskin" columnar structure one would expect to see in traditional polymer-impregnated synthetic opal produced by Kyocera (right). The largest sample of plastic imitation opal in the left photo weighs 227 grams, and the largest sample of synthetic opal in the right photo weighs 65 grams. The rectangular black block in the photo on the left is 9.7 cm in length. Photos by Robert Weldon.
Recently, the Carlsbad laboratory examined an interesting new gem material manufactured by the Japanese company Kyocera that displayed a play-of-color phenomenon. In the trade, this material may be sold as an “opal-like product,” because of the play-of-color phenomenon observed (figure 1, left).

Standard gemological testing revealed a hydrostatic specific gravity (SG) of 1.35. The refractive index (RI) was measured as 1.49. According to GIA, an imitation is defined as a natural or manmade material that mimics the appearance of, and is used as a substitute for, another gem material. Likewise, a synthetic gem is defined by GIA as a laboratory-grown gem material with virtually the same chemical and physical properties as a natural gem. Because the gemological properties for this new material are out of range for natural opal (SG of 2.00 and RI between 1.37 and 1.47), it is best described as an imitation opal.

Figure 2. The infrared absorption spectrum of the new plastic imitation opal (red trace) was very similar to that of traditional plastic-impregnated synthetic opal (blue trace) except that the polymer feature at ~1734 cm–1 was about five times as strong.
Further testing revealed that this material readily burns with a hot point and produces a strong acrid odor indicating that a significant amount of plastic is present. Additionally, advanced testing using energy-dispersive X-ray fluorescence (EDXRF) spectroscopy revealed the presence of silicon. Fourier-transform infrared (FTIR) testing revealed a spectrum that was quite similar to traditional polymer-impregnated synthetic opal (figure 1, right) except for a polymer peak that was nearly five times as strong (figure 2). These tests indicate that this material is composed of both plastic resin and silicon. When exposed to ultraviolet light, samples with a white bodycolor fluoresced a weak blue to short-wave and medium blue to long-wave UV. Samples with a black bodycolor fluoresced a weak orange to short-wave UV and were inert to long-wave UV.

Figure 3. Traditional synthetic opal shows a "chicken wire" or "snakeskin" pattern (left) and a columnar structure (right) that are diagnostic of synthetic origin. The new plastic opal imitation does not show these features. Photomicrographs by Nathan Renfro; fields of view 7.20 mm (left) and 14.40 mm (right).

Figure 4. Randomly oriented patches of play-of-color are uniformly distributed throughout this new plastic opal imitation. The imitation looks the same from all different angles. Photomicrograph by Nathan Renfro; field of view 13 mm.
Microscopic examination revealed some interesting features. The pattern in the play-of-color was random and unlike traditional synthetic opal did not display any “snakeskin” or “chicken wire” pattern (figure 3, left), but instead showed colored polygonal patches about 2 mm in size uniformly distributed throughout (figure 4). Nor did the plastic imitation opal display the columnar structure one would expect to see in synthetic opal (figure 3, right).

Visually, this new material is a very good imitation of natural opal. Gemologically, it is easy to separate from natural opal due to the comparatively high refractive index and low specific gravity. There are other possible decorative applications for this plastic opal imitation material due to the large sizes that can be produced. This attractive material is a welcome addition to the gem trade and is easy to separate from natural opal with standard gemological testing. @chapter:48 @chapter:0 @chapter:48


# Publication Year: 1995
# Title: Meerschaum from Eskisehir Province, Turkey
# Abstract: This study presents a model for the origin of the Eskisehir, Turkey, sepiolite deposits. Known as “meerschaum” in the gem trade when it occurs as compact masses (especially nodules), sepiolite is mined by local farmers using basic implements and traditional tunneling methods. The best nodules are carved into objects such as pipe bowls, bracelets, and necklaces. The sepiolite nodules occur in the Pliocene-age Imisehir conglomerates, associated with dolomite, magnesite, opal-CT, and lizardite. Fibrous in morphology, they probably formed in relatively shallow water under alkaline conditions, as a result of the replacement of magnesite gravels that were subjected to pore waters with high SiO2 concentrations. @chapter:14 @chapter:0 @chapter:14


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Reinventing Lace
# Abstract: Photo courtesy Neil Lane Jewelry

                      Step into our time machine. Travel back about one hundred years. You have now arrived in Edwardian England (1900 -1915).

You’re at an elegant ball at a duke’s estate. Young princesses and grande dames parade about the aristocratic affair, their stunning jewelry sparkling with triumphal laurel wreaths, ribbons, and filigree.

Fast-forward to the present, and lacey jewelry is making a comeback. Big fashion houses are filling the pages of women’s magazines with haute couture lace clothing. Dresses…shirts…scarves – lace is the look of the day.

Handcrafted items are also popular, and they’re stoking demand for products with an antique appearance. Consumers have been bitten by the nostalgia bug – a grounding look in a fast-changing world – and jewelry designers picked up on this.

"Lace combines history and romance in beautifully crafted patterns. It’s both revealing and concealing at the same time, veiling the skin and accentuating it with its design. I find it to be a very inspiring material for my designs," says jewelry designer, Katherine Semyonov of Katerina Maxine. Semyonov is known for finding inspiration in her Russian heritage.

	Katerina Maxine’s bracelet is ethereal…refined…aristocratic. The use of rose gold gives the piece the warmth of the hearth, while the filigree work evokes the work of skilled craftsmen from days past. Photo courtesy D'Orazio & Associate/Katerina Maxine
Technological advances, ironically, are behind this neo-antique look. Groundbreaking laser technology is allowing designers to make jewelry of unmatched complexity. It’s also enabling them to create the illusion of more jewelry with less material – something increasingly important as the price of precious metals rise.

Antique style and high technology – this blending of the old and new – make it an exciting time to be in the gem and jewelry industry.

	The Limelight Couture Précieuse necklace by Piaget is the epitome of femininity: graceful, flowing lines, and decorated with flowers and honeycombed shapes. It also is a magnificent piece of craftsmanship: It has more than 1,600 diamonds and took more than 800 hours to make. Photo courtesy Piaget @chapter:20 @chapter:2 @chapter:20


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Top 20 Traits to be Successful in Retail
# Abstract: Susan Jacques, president and CEO of Borsheims Fine Jewelry and Gifts and a member of GIA’s Board of Governors, offered these traits for success during a panel discussion at a GIA mini Jewelry Career Fair:

PASSION: Warren Buffett says: “Tap dance to work.” Love what you do every day! Have it show.

LOYALTY: Remember who signs your pay check -- be loyal to your company. If you are unhappy and your job is not what you want to do, leave and find your passion elsewhere.

RESPECT: Know everyone in the company by name; show the same respect regardless of titles and treat people as you wish to be treated.

COMMITMENT: To your company, your job, your teammates, your success.

DEDICATION: Give 110 percent every day to ensure your and your company’s success.

HONESTY: Be a person of your word, always be honest and ethical in everything you do.

INTEGRITY: Have the highest standards of integrity, personally and professionally. Earn your stellar reputation and guard it with every action that you take and decision that you make.

TRUSTWORTHINESS: Trust is essential in our industry and in your company. Be known for your trustworthiness.

TEAM PLAYER: Work well with others, be supportive and helpful. There is no I in TEAM! No prima donnas!

INITIATIVE: Don’t wait to be asked, take initiative, see the global picture.

CONFIDENTIALITY: NEVER breach confidentiality, what happens at X or with X stays there or between you.

DRIVE: Have the personal drive to succeed, do your best, set high goals and strive to exceed them.

EXCELLENCE: Always strive to exceed expectations and excel at what you do.

ATTITUDE: Keep a positive, optimistic, friendly, professional attitude EVERY day.

DETERMINATION: Be determined to succeed and be the best you can be and give every task your best effort.

FOCUSED: Focus on your goals and your ability to exceed customer expectations with every transaction.

MULTI-TASK: Learn to do many things simultaneously and excellently. Retail seldom allows you the
ability to finish one thing before moving on to the next. Be flexible.

EMPATHY: Be empathetic to fellow associates and customers. LISTEN to what they say.

CONFIDENCE: Exude self-confidence and believe in yourself and your ability to succeed.

KNOWLEDGE: Constantly learn and share your knowledge. It’s important to stay up to date on industry news, changes in treatments, product knowledge, social responsibility and sustainability. Stay in touch with GIA and continue to grow through learning! @chapter:45 @chapter:3 @chapter:45


# Publication Year: 1981
# Title: Spring 1981 Gem News International
# Abstract: Afghanistan Situation
Diamond
            Australia: Industrial-Quality Finds
            India: Countrywide Exploration Announced
            China: Sino-German Trade Agreement
            U.S.: Wyoming Exploration
            USSR: Record Stone Discovered
Ruby
            Kenyan Discovery
            Australian Yield
            Southern Indian Deposit
            Large Pakistan Deposits
Sapphire
            Kashmir, India, Production May Return
            Deposit in Australia Yields Large Stones
Sri Lanka Lapidary
Tuscon Gem and Mineral Show
            Aquamarine from Idaho
            Red Beryl from Utah
            Synthetic Red Beryl Only Pink
            Sugilite from Manganese Mine Prominent
            Pink Fluorite from Peru
            Topaz in Great Abundance
Exhibits
            Carnegie Institute's Museum of Natural History
            Denver Museum of Natural History
            Lizzadro Museum of Lapidary Art
            Los Angeles County Museum of Natural History

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:21 @chapter:0 @chapter:21


# Publication Year: 2023
# Title: New Opportunities for Colored Gemstones in the Chinese Market
# Abstract: In the first half of 2023, according to consumption trends of gemstones and jewelry on the Douyin app in China, online consumption in the gemstone and jewelry market has increased. From July 2022 to June 2023, short video content related to gemstones and jewelry grew by 20.4%, searches for content related to gemstones and jewelry increased by 80.5% year-over-year, and live broadcasts related to these topics saw a 61.4% increase year-over-year. According to data from the China Gems and Jewelry Industry Association, during the first half of 2023, the average price of colored gemstones across all types in the Chinese market increased by 30%-50%, and rare large or relatively scarce colored gemstones saw price increases of 100%-150%. Additionally, prices for rubies, sapphires, and other precious gemstones increased by approximately 30% to 20,000-30,000 yuan per carat, while more common types such as spessartite, aquamarine, and morganite increased by 10%-30%. Moreover, tourmaline and spinel, which have gained more acceptance and popularity among Chinese consumers, also saw increases in demand.
Experts in the Chinese gemstone and jewelry industry suggest that the rapid increase in gemstone prices is not only due to market supply and demand but also reflects changing consumer attitudes. Data from app consumption shows that in 2023, consumers in the gemstone and jewelry market in China, particularly those aged 18-35, represent more than half of the consumer base. Generation Y plays a significant economic role and is a key consumer group in China, following trends in fashion and personal expression. Current trends include vibrant colors, high saturation, and three-dimensional finishes in jewelry, which have become new fashion trends, enhanced by social media's influence promoting bright and distinctive clothing styles.
Economic benefits for Thailand and strategies for adaptation by government, private sector, and Thai entrepreneurs:
In recent years, Chinese consumers have increasingly embraced colored gemstones, especially among younger generations fond of new fashion trends and individuality. This popularity has extended to consumers born after 2000 and after 1990, who have shown a significant increase in consumption of gemstone jewelry priced at approximately 1,000 yuan and above. Considering these factors, the market for colored gemstones in China shows great potential for further growth.
However, while global economies gradually recover, the demand for high-quality and unique jewelry is increasing. If colored gemstone prices rise too quickly, some consumers may delay purchases. Overall, in the future, colored gemstone prices may continue to rise, but consumer consumption may slow down. This is something that entrepreneurs need to keep an eye on.
Therefore, gemstone producers, exporters, and related organizations must pay attention to the gemstone and jewelry market situation in China, as well as continuously study the consumption behavior of new-generation consumers in China. This will enable them to adjust production strategies to align with market demand in the gemstone and jewelry market in China and develop the quality of Thai gemstones, thereby promoting the value-added market of Thai gems and jewelry in the future. @chapter:32 @chapter:3 @chapter:32


# Publication Year: 2018
# Title: Six-Rayed Star in Sapphire from Myanmar
# Abstract: This inclusion scene features an apparent iron sulfide crystal against a midnight blue backdrop. It is reminiscent of the night sky, echoing the surface appearance of the star sapphire host. Photomicrograph by E. Billie Hughes; field of view 2.15 mm.

Gems are renowned for their outward beauty, but their internal world can be just as striking. Lotus Gemology recently came across a Burmese sapphire, cut as a cabochon and measuring 8.92 × 7.10 × 4.75 mm, that displayed a six-rayed star. Once we examined it under the microscope, we were surprised to find that this celestial theme carried through to the inclusion scene inside (see above).

The long, undissolved rutile silk needles that form the six-rayed star are evident in angular zones. We could also see other inclusions typical of unheated sapphire, such as the tiny negative crystals forming a “fingerprint” at the top of the image. What was most interesting about this piece was the large, irregularly shaped crystal with a metallic appearance hovering close to the surface of the cabochon dome, which we believe is an iron sulfide crystal based on its appearance. This highly reflective crystal seems to float across a midnight blue backdrop, reminiscent of an asteroid floating in space and making for a fitting inclusion in a star sapphire. @chapter:24 @chapter:0 @chapter:24


# Publication Year: 2024
# Title: Dual-Color Double Chatoyancy in Emerald
# Abstract: Figure 1. The emerald in this ring displays dual-color light green and white double chatoyancy. The stone measures 8.39 × 5.71 × 4.22 mm. Photo by Momo Matsumura.

Figure 2. Side view of the emerald ring. Parallel tube inclusions are oblique to the pavilion. The white reflection on the right is caused by the inclusions near the surface of the curved cabochon, while the greenish reflection on the left is caused by the reflection off of the bottom face of the cabochon. Photo by Shunsuke Nagai.
GIA’s Tokyo laboratory recently received for origin service a ring with an emerald displaying dual-color double chatoyancy (figure 1). One band showed white chatoyancy, while the other exhibited greenish chatoyancy similar to the bodycolor. The emerald had an oval double-cabochon shape with a polished crown and pavilion and contained parallel tubes slightly oblique to the polished pavilion, resulting in semitransparency. The dual-color double chatoyancy was caused by the same mechanism identified in dual-color star corundum and quartz by Schmetzer et al. (“Dual-color double stars in ruby, sapphire, and quartz: Cause and historical account,” Summer 2015 G&G, pp. 112–143). The white chatoyancy was caused by the linear reflection of the parallel tube inclusions from the upper cabochon surface. The greenish chatoyancy was caused by the linear reflection of the polished curved base through the interior of the stone to the surface (figure 2). Double chatoyancy is occasionally observed, but it is rare to find a very clear example of dual-color double chatoyancy. @chapter:24 @chapter:0 @chapter:24


# Publication Year: 2017
# Title: Exhibition Review: A Modern Gem and Jewelry Collection
# Abstract: Figure 1. This 16 ct rhodochrosite, faceted by the late Stephen Kotlowski, is from Colorado’s Sweet Home mine. Photo by Stephen Kotlowski, courtesy of Somewhere In The Rainbow.

A Modern Gem and Jewelry Collection, consisting of 458 carefully chosen pieces, is currently on display at the Flandrau Science Center & Planetarium in Tucson, Arizona. The ensemble, located on the first floor of the Planetarium, was provided by a group of anonymous private collectors called Somewhere In The Rainbow, who aim to promote appreciation of fine colored gemstones through museum and gallery exhibitions.

The exhibition’s pathway is L-shaped and oriented toward the left with a total of eleven windows. The first window presents a selection of high-end jewelry pieces that have won AGTA Spectrum awards. This arrangement is followed by six windows organized by locale. This group of windows contains minerals, cut gemstones, and prominent jewelry pieces. A more didactic window exhibits a selection of gemological tools that have been used to identify and study gemstones through the ages. A central round case shows a selection of ten award-winning jewelry pieces. An impressive display is dedicated to a selection of elite sapphire gems and carvings. The last case is equipped with a UV light switch, which displays the fluorescence of the gemstones within.

The highlight of the first window is a pair of tourmaline, tsavorite, and diamond earrings by Ai Van Pham. A second window represents a selection of Africa's most notable species, including a diamond necklace with a 17.84 ct green cuprian tourmaline center stone by Adam Neely and an 18.55 ct trillion-cut Mahenge spinel. The third window features a collection of American gemstones, such as rhodochrosites (figure 1), amethysts, Montana sapphires, Oregon sunstones, and benitoites. The two must-see jewelry pieces in this case are two magnificent strands of graduated turquoise beads (figure 2) from Arizona’s Sleeping Beauty mine in Arizona, and a necklace featuring a rhodochrosite from Colorado’s Sweet Home County mine alongside diamond and sapphire. The turquoise strands particularly exemplify the best quality in color and texture of this increasingly rare untreated material. The Southeast Asia display features fantastic spinels, rubies, and sapphires (figure 3). The exhibition promotes blue and pink spinel as the most colorful material on the market, and a sumptuous multicolored spinel and diamond necklace is the most noteworthy piece of the ensemble.

Figure 2. Arizona’s Sleeping Beauty mine is the source of these strands of turquoise
beads. Photo by Robert Weldon, courtesy of Somewhere In The Rainbow.

Figure 3. The cutter of this 16.73 ct unheated color-change sapphire from Sri Lanka is unknown. Photo by Photography by Michelle, courtesy of Somewhere In The Rainbow.
Brazil is prominently represented in its own case (figure 4) thanks to an impressive collection of tourmalines and high-quality topazes. A diamond necklace with a 34.34 ct Imperial topaz, along with a 15 ct pear-shaped Paraiba tourmaline as the center stone of a diamond necklace (figure 5), stand out as extremely alluring numbers. Even more intriguing, one case gathers some pieces from “exotic origins” such as csazite from Turkey, a vivid 140.71 ct kunzite from Afghanistan, some remarkable green beryls from Russia, and a 187.57 ct sphalerite from Spain. A green beryl carving by Alfred Zimmerman, depicting a frog sitting on a hexagonal rough beryl set in a Henri Dunay gold carving from the early 1970s, stands out. The “Sea and Sky” window contains a selection of various pearls and coral specimens. A central round case displays ten innovative and acclaimed jewelry pieces, including a multicolored tourmaline and diamond ring by Randy Coffin that received an AGTA Spectrum award in 2016.  The next window is entirely dedicated to sapphires in various cuts with a remarkable Buddha carving (figure 6) dating 1400-1500 AD. A window exhibiting fluorescent gems ends the show.

Figure 4. The Brazil case features gems from the country, fashioned for jewelry by
master artisans. The artwork in the case is by Leslie Porter of Phoenix, Arizona.
Photo by Shelly Sergent; mineral specimens courtesy of Pala Gems.

Figure 5. The showcase of this necklace is the 15 ct Paraíba tourmaline, from the original Batalha mine, which is surrounded by diamonds. Photo by Robert Weldon, courtesy of Somewhere In The Rainbow.

Figure 6. The 15.73ct Buddha Blue sapphire, ca. 1400–1500AD, was cut from an unheated   Sri Lankan specimen. The stone has an active fluid inclusion. Photo by Sean Milliner, courtesy of Somewhere In The Rainbow.
The selection of pieces in A Modern Gem and Jewelry Collection is of high quality and is well documented with carat weight and detailed cartels. The exhibition allows the general public and aficionados alike to get more familiar with rare gems and a distinctive group of American designers.

A Modern Gem and Jewelry Collection will run at the Flandrau Science Center & Planetarium until January 15, 2018. Admission is $16.00 for adults, $12.00 for seniors, military, college students with ID, and children ages 4–17. The Science Center & Planetarium is open is open seven days a week; hours are 9:00 a.m.–5:00 p.m. Monday through Thursday, 9:00 a.m.–10:00 p.m. Friday, 10:00 a.m.–10:00 p.m. Saturday, and 12:00 p.m.–5:00 p.m. Sunday. @chapter:33 @chapter:2 @chapter:33


# Publication Year: 2024
# Title: Tucson 2024 Overview
# Abstract: Figure 1. A display case showing popular colors and materials seen this year in Tucson. Photo by Jennifer Stone-Sundberg; courtesy of Arizona Color Stones & Minerals.
Overall, 2024 was a good year at the various Tucson shows. Foot traffic throughout the venues was noticeably slow at times, but less window-shopping and more serious buying of particularly higher-end items made up for the lack of bustling crowds. Most vendors interviewed reported strong sales and many returning buyers, noting that sales have continued to grow post-pandemic.
The American Gem Trade Association reported a small uptick in buyer attendance (+1%) and a 3% growth in vendors at the AGTA GemFair. In fact, they only had one empty booth in both the designer showroom and the gem hall. Vendors in both venues indicated that the show floor felt slower but that visitors were there to buy, often with shopping lists. AGTA’s added security measures that included ID checks were well received by both buyers and exhibitors.
GIA’s Show Service Laboratory reported a solid AGTA show, with ruby, emerald, and sapphire making up the majority of the intake. Both the service lab and vendors noted movement of high-end, unusual, and rare stones, a common theme every year in Tucson.

Figure 2. Vintage turquoise rough from the Sleeping Beauty mine in Arizona. Photo by Jennifer Stone-Sundberg; courtesy of Arizona Color Stones & Minerals.

Figure 3. A 30.26 ct blue cushion-cut cuprian tourmaline from Mozambique. Photo by Robert Weldon; courtesy of Evan Caplan.

Figure 4. A 5.34 ct vivid green modified cushion-cut Russian demantoid garnet displaying horsetail inclusions. Photo by Robert Weldon; courtesy of Tsarina Jewels.

Figure 5. Pink and purple “Nebula” sapphire in both freeform faceted tablet (left; 7.77 × 9.20 mm, 0.82 ct) and brilliant-cut (right; 4 mm round, 0.73 ct) styles. This material is from a mine in Madagascar that produces very small stones ranging from hot pink to violet. Photos by Kalim Korey; courtesy of Caroline C.
It was hard to miss the prevalence of green to blue stones, especially in vibrant and pastel tones. They were well represented in the 2023 AGTA Spectrum and Cutting Edge Awards, and many vendors reportedly brought these colors to Tucson in response. With blues and greens leading the way, pinks and to a lesser extent purples were also highly visible (figure 1). Among the top stones spotted throughout the shows were emerald, turquoise (figure 2), opal, aquamarine, Paraíba and cuprian tourmaline (figure 3), green garnet (figure 4), and unheated Montana sapphire. Strong showings of unheated blue Ukrainian topaz, unheated bicolor green and blue zoisite, blue zircon, pink to purple garnets, electric pink and purple sapphire (figure 5), morganite, fluorescent “dragon” Malaya garnet, rose quartz, pink tourmaline, baroque pearls, and Oregon sunstone were also noted.

Figure 6. Sapphire and spinel with a visible silky haze creating a glowing, sleepy appearance were popular throughout the shows. Left: Four emerald-cut Mahenge spinel (clockwise from top: 3.00 ct purple, 1.77 ct purple, 2.40 ct purple, and 3.71 ct hot pink). Courtesy of Bryan Lichtenstein. Right: A 4.50 ct “opalescent” unheated sapphire from Sri Lanka. Courtesy of Misfit Diamonds. Photos by Robert Weldon.
Another trend was the demand for visibly unheated stones. “Silky” sapphire and spinel with needle inclusions creating a soft, glowing appearance were extremely popular (figure 6). Also referred to as “opalescent,” “hazy,” “milky,” and “sleepy,” these stones were some of the hottest at the AGTA, Gem & Jewelry Exchange (GJX), and Pueblo shows. Dudley Blauwet Gems reported selling out of all of their opalescent milky stones by the fourth day of AGTA.

Figure 7. A 0.67 ct heart-shaped pezzottaite measuring 5.61 × 6.10 mm. The rough of this rare newer gem material was found and bought in Madagascar in December 2023. The stone was cut in New York for the Tucson show, where it sold. Photo by Kalim Corey; courtesy of Caroline C.
Other noted trends included the importance of geographic origin and traceability reporting for many buyers, the popularity of fancy shapes such as hearts and pears (figure 7), and the use of white metal in jewelry both in the AGTA Spectrum Award winners and throughout the shows.

Figure 8. Two pairs of earrings designed and crafted by Caroline Chartouni using Sleeping Beauty turquoise rough she acquired more than 10 years ago. The left pair is 18K white gold with 64.53 carats of turquoise, two cabochon moonstones, and 4.40 carats of hot pink spinel. The right pair is 18K white gold with 107.30 carats of turquoise, 4.64 carats of tsavorite garnet, and 0.19 carats of diamond. Photos by Kalim Corey; courtesy of Caroline C.

Figure 9. Vintage Navajo silver bolo tie with turquoise reportedly from the Morenci mine in southeastern Arizona, which is not currently being mined for turquoise. This highly collectible material, known for its desirable blue color and iron pyrite matrix, dates back to 1864 and was a byproduct of copper mining. Photo by Kevin Schumacher; courtesy of Aaron Palke.
Demand for American stones was evident once again, with more vendors carrying sapphire from Montana, turquoise from Nevada and Arizona, and sunstone from Oregon. In fact, one of the most often encountered materials in jewelry this year was vintage turquoise reportedly from the famed Sleeping Beauty mine in Arizona (figure 8). In the past, these various American gems were available mainly from vendors directly associated with the mining claims. The Southwestern motif, always a fixture in Tucson, was decidedly more pronounced this year, with many large silver items throughout the shows, including bangles, cuff bracelets, statement earrings, necklaces, and bolo ties adorned with turquoise (figure 9), red coral, blue topaz, and opal. This observation was validated the following week when singer Post Malone performed “America the Beautiful” before Super Bowl LVIII wearing a striking silver bolo tie complete with a large bright green turquoise stone with brown matrix. The bolo was reportedly made by Navajo artist Leonard Nez of New Mexico using a piece of Royston turquoise.
In addition to the presence of vintage jewelry this year, we also found multiple examples of repurposing antiquities into jewelry. As for new finds, we report on bright blue opal from Chile, green amber from Ethiopia, high-quality orange-flash rainbow moonstone from Madagascar, and recent sapphire production from the famed Kashmir region.
We hope you enjoy our coverage of the 2024 Tucson gem shows and find the following reports informative. @chapter:38 @chapter:3 @chapter:38


# Publication Year: 2004
# Title: Spring 2004 G&G Lab Notes
# Abstract: Feathers in Copal
Rare Type IIa Pink Diamond with Green Radiation Stains
Two Yellow Synthetic Diamonds
Herderite Update
Large Opal Doublet
Three Rutilated Cat’s-Eyes Quartzes
Spurrite

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:43 @chapter:1 @chapter:43


# Publication Year: 1997
# Title: Tairus Hydrothermal Synthetic Sapphires Doped with Nickel and Chromium
# Abstract: Researchers of the Tairus joint venture have developed the technology for the hydrothermal growth of gem-quality crystals of synthetic sapphire. They have achieved a broad spectrum of attractive colors by varying the concentrations of Ni2+, Ni3+, and Cr3+. Comprehensive testing of 18 faceted synthetic sapphires and 10 synthetic crystals, representing the range of colors, revealed a typical set of internal features that are specific to hydrothermally grown crystals (microscopy), as well as the presence of OH– and various carbon-oxygen groups in the sapphire structure (infrared spectroscopy). The reactions of the test samples to ultraviolet radiation and visible light were also found to be useful in distinguishing the Tairus synthetic sapphires from their natural counterparts and other synthetics. @chapter:19 @chapter:1 @chapter:19


# Publication Year: -
# Title: US Holiday Season Opens Well, Despite Volatile Markets
# Abstract: The Moon of Baroda, a 24.04 ct Fancy yellow diamond was found in India centuries ago and was part of the collection of Marie Therese of Vienna, the Habsburg’s only female monarch. Christie’s sold the diamond in December for $1.34 million, twice its pre-sale estimate. Photo courtesy of Christie’s.

The U.S. holiday shopping season is looking positive, despite some warning signs that an economic slowdown may be coming next year.

A Diamond Producers Association poll estimated that a record 53 million consumers intend to buy a diamond this season, with millennials registering the highest percentage of would-be buyers.

In addition, a Centurion survey of predominately upscale independent retail jewelers found that 41% saw a 10% or higher sales increase during Black Friday weekend, the traditional start of the holiday shopping season, with a similar percentage saying sales were even with 2017. Only 9% reported a sales decline. It is important to note, however, that most jewelry sales occur late in the season, in the days just before Christmas.

Overall, retail has been doing well. A MasterCard survey of shoppers for all consumer goods found that retail sales for Black Friday weekend was 9% over the same period last year. MasterCard analysts expect some slowdown in buying, but note that the season will finish with a 5% gain overall. This is in line with forecasts from the National Retail Federation.

Online sales soared, tracking 24% over 2017 November totals, according to Adobe Analytics, which tracks e-business.

Retail analysts remain concerned, however, that recent declines in the stock market, large-scale layoffs at General Motors and gloomy predictions about next year’s economy may slow shoppers’ desire to spend before the season is out.

In China, the world’s second largest jewelry market, major jewelers reported that the trade war with the U.S. has caused demand for gold and gemstone pieces to decline about 5% during the current quarter. Chinese currency has declined about 5% in recent months, raising prices of these commodities for consumers.

The Peacock Necklace, containing 109.08 carats of Kashmir sapphires, sold for a record $14.96 million at Christie’s Hong Kong auction on Nov. 27.  Photo courtesy of Christie’s
AUCTIONS
The major auctions continued their record-breaking pace in November. At Christie’s Hong Kong sale on Nov. 27, an unnamed buyer paid nearly $15 million, a record price, for the Peacock Necklace, which features 21 cushion cut Kashmir sapphires ranging in size from 3.02 carats to 10.56 carats (totaling 109.08 carats) and 23 D color diamonds weighing between 1.03 to 4.05 carats. Both the sapphires and diamonds were graded by GIA.

At the same auction, star-power helped the 24.04 ct Moon of Baroda Fancy yellow diamond break the million-dollar mark ($1.32 million), twice its pre-sale estimate. The GIA-graded pear shaped stone was made famous by Marilyn Monroe who wore it for promotion photos for the film Gentlemen Prefer Blondes. The diamond was found in India and was acquired by Marie Therese’ of Vienna (1717-1780), the only female ruler of the Austrian Habsburg dynasty.

Marilyn Monroe held the Moon of Baroda in publicity photos for her film "Gentlemen Prefer Blondes." Christie's sold the diamond in December for $1.34 million, twice its pre-sale estimate. Photo courtesy of Christie's.
An Asian private buyer at the Christie’s auction paid $7.3 million for a 10.04 ct Burmese ruby ring, while a pair of Fancy pink earrings, 5.21 and 5.01 carats respectively, drew a winning bid of $4.3 million.

Sotheby’s December New York sale featured more star-powered jewels, this time from the estate of Barbara Sinatra, the late singer’s wife. Her collection included a number of emerald pieces and designer jewels and her 20.60 GIA-graded D-VVS1 diamond engagement ring that sold for $1.7 million. This was slightly over the top pre-sale estimate. The auction also included a 10.62 ct Fancy Vivid blue pear-shaped diamond, expected to sell for $20-$30 million, but failed to find a buyer.
COLORED STONES
The Colombia Emerald Producers Association, known by its Spanish acronym Aprecol, plans to seek official recognition for the origin of its gems. The organization is seeking Appellation of Origin status from the United Nation’s World Intellectual Property Organization in Geneva, which will give legal protection against dealers who ascribe Colombian origins to emeralds mined in other locales.

Appellation of Origin status is commonly employed in wines (Bordeaux and champagne) and distinctive food products (Parma ham), but has never been applied to precious stones, despite the fact that gems from certain origins can carry substantial premiums.

Aprecol announced it would employ blockchain technology to secure the supply chains, insuring that the emeralds were mined ethically and exported legally from Colombia. The organization is hoping to begin certification in March of 2019. @chapter:32 @chapter:3 @chapter:32


# Publication Year: 2020
# Title: Unusually Shaped Rutile Crystal Inclusions in Russian Emerald
# Abstract: Figure 1. This long yellowish brown rod was identified by Raman spectroscopy as rutile. Photomicrograph by Charuwan Khowpong; field of view 1.75 mm.

Russian emeralds have been mined since the mid-nineteenth century near Yekaterinburg in the Ural Mountains. They are classified as schist-related emeralds, meaning they formed in the reaction zone of a pegmatite intruding into schists. Similar emeralds are found in Zambia, Brazil, and Ethiopia. All of these deposits can show a similar inclusion scene (S. Saeseaw et al., “Geographic origin determination of emerald,” Winter 2019 G&G, pp. 614–646).

Figure 2. The group of disordered coarse needles of rutile. Photomicrograph by Charuwan Khowpong; field of view 3.65 mm.
A 1.489 ct Russian emerald crystal collected by GIA at the Mariinsky Priisk mine showed several interesting included crystals. The crystals appeared as long yellowish brown rods (figure 1). In some cases, they appeared as a group of disordered coarse needles (figure 2). They were identified by Raman spectroscopy as rutile. Although rutile crystal inclusions are common in schist-related emeralds, this crystal morphology is unusual and has not previously been mentioned in the literature. Therefore, this inclusion might be unique and different from the other schist-related emerald sources. These unusual patterns could potentially be an indicator of Russian origin. @chapter:13 @chapter:0 @chapter:13


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Cornelia Goldsmith, 2013 JCK Rising Star
# Abstract: View Gallery

Background

	I grew up in Kiel, Germany and remember how I spent timeless summers along with my two sisters scouring the beaches of the Baltic Sea, always on the lookout for small pieces of golden amber amongst the sand and rocks. Although I had no formal training, this Baltic amber along with other small “treasures” of varying shapes and colors ended up in my very first creations of earrings and bracelets. It was a very humble beginning to a design career and I remember it fondly.

	I moved to the United States in 1988 and enrolled in my first jewelry making classes at the Massachusetts College of Art. Two years later I transferred to the technical program at the North Bennett Street School in Boston’s North End.

	Next, I studied under Cecelia Bauer in New York in the late 1980s and discovered the ancient granulation technique I have used extensively in my designs. I put my first jewelry line together while completing my technical studies and immediately began to sell some early designs for my collection at several arts and crafts shows locally.

	I established Cornelia Goldsmith Studio in Sausalito, California in 1994 and remained there, just north of the Golden Gate Bridge, until early 2013 when I moved the design studio to San Francisco in an old brick building that overlooks San Francisco Bay.

	I completed the “Jewelry Design” course at GIA in 2011 to better learn how to render my ideas on paper. Prior to that I relied on some relatively basic sketches (some might say scribbles!) to develop my ideas. Being able to render my designs in watercolor has streamlined the first stage of a new earring or bracelet I might be thinking about and allows me to better visualize and incorporate color into my design from the first moment.

The Design Process

	I dream in shapes, colors and of little things that pass through my life. These motifs gradually transform into more developed ideas for a piece of jewelry, usually through several iterations of drawings. I feel a great need to get them out of my system once they become earrings, necklaces, brooches and rings. It feels very purifying, really, to design, render and fabricate some idea into existence as a finished piece of jewelry – and it is equally fulfilling when I am finally able to see my jewelry being worn.

	My jewelry reflects an enduring love of natural, organic forms that blend ancient and new world sentiments. I also have a deep appreciation for exacting craftsmanship and fine detail, which are very important to me and, I suppose, express my view of the world.

Favorite Gemstones and Metals

	There are so many beautiful gemstones, so it is really very difficult to choose a favorite. I do love to design with sapphires – just because they exist in so many gorgeous colors of the rainbow! I also use a lot of tourmalines. And of course diamonds – in all shapes and sizes.

	My jewelry is all handmade in various combinations of alloys such as 18K white and yellow gold, 21K yellow gold and platinum. I also like to make a few of the designs in silver.  We manufacture our own alloys in the workshop, making sheet and wire in all shapes and thicknesses.

Motivation

	Being a designer is very fulfilling for me and I love deriving my inspiration from all the little things that surround me in my life.

	I believe we should act as stewards of the planet and the environment, so take the extra time and expense to seek out and use conflict-free and recycled materials. I think that is of vital importance. We really have no other choice if we are to leave behind a world fit to inhabit for future generations.

	Cornelia Goldsmith. Photo provided by Cornelia Goldsmith. @chapter:20 @chapter:2 @chapter:20


# Publication Year: 1985
# Title: The Eyepiece Pointer: A Useful Microscope Accessory
# Abstract: The eyepiece pointer is a very useful microscope accessory for the gemologist. It is always in focus and points to the center of the microscope's field of view regardless of the magnification or plane of focus within the stone. The eyepiece pointer simplifies the task of pointing out microscopic features on or in any gemstone, whether mounted or unmounted. It can be fashioned easily for use on virtually any microscope. @chapter:35 @chapter:1 @chapter:35


# Publication Year: 2001
# Title: Summer 2001 Gem News International
# Abstract: Diamonds
            Royal Asscher Cut
            Diamonds in Canada: An Update
            Field Excursion to Canadian Diamond Mines
            Diamond Presentations at the PDAC Conference
            A Table with Trigons
Colored Stones and Organic Materials
            Amber (“Burmite”) from Myanmar: Production Resumes
            Cat’s-Eye Amethyst from Brazil
            Brownish Red to Orange Gems from Afghanistan/Pakistan Misrepresented as Bastnäsite
            Spinel with Clinohumite from Mahenge, Tanzania
            An Interesting Engraved Emerald
            Unusual Rutilated Quartz
            Important New Ruby Deposits in Eastern Madagascar: Chemistry and Internal Features
            The New Ruby Deposits in Eastern Madagascar: Mining and Production
            Ruby Crystal with Large Mobile Gas Bubble
            A Brownish Green Sapphire, with Pyrochlore Inclusions
            Update on the Vortex Sapphire Mine, Yogo Gulch, Montana
            Canary Tourmaline from Malawi
            A Bismuth-Bearing Liddicoatite from Nigeria
Synthetics and Simulants
            “Jurassic Bugs” Amber Imitation
            Deceptive Assembled Diamond Imitations from Brazil
            Enamel-Backed Quartz as a Star Sapphire Imitation
Miscellaneous
            11th Annual V. M. Goldschmidt Conference
            Gemological Conference at the Moscow State Geoprospecting Academy
            A Visit to the Harvard Tourmaline Exhibit
Announcements
            AGTA announces changes to Spectrum Awards

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:0 @chapter:0 @chapter:0


# Publication Year: 1991
# Title: Age, Origin, and Emplacement of Diamonds: Scientific Advances in the Last Decade
# Abstract: Scientific advances in the past decade have completely altered our understanding of certain concepts relating to the age and origin of diamonds. As a generalization, most diamonds formed more than 990 million years ago, deep within the earth, from either of two rock types, peridotite and eclogite. They were stored below the base of cratons for varying periods of time, some as long as 3,200 million years, before being transported to the surface. Kimberlite and lamproite, the two rock types usually associated with diamonds, are only the mechanisms that brought diamonds to the surface and are in no way related to the formation of most diamonds. Other topics that are somewhat more speculative, for example, the source of carbon for the crystallization of diamonds and the mechanism of kimberlite and lamproite emplacement, are also discussed and the latest concepts presented. @chapter:44 @chapter:1 @chapter:44


# Publication Year: 2021
# Title: Imitation Moldavite
# Abstract: Figure 1. Acid-etched flow lines on artificial glass imitating moldavite. Photomicrograph by Michaela Stephan; field of view 2.34 mm.

Recently GIA’s Carlsbad laboratory received for identification a 46.13 ct yellowish green rough stone. The lack of a polished flat surface prevented a refractive index reading, while the specific gravity was measured as 2.45. Under microscopic examination, very few gas bubbles were found and some straight, approximately evenly spaced surface features were observed (figure 1).

Figure 2. Natural flow lines on moldavite. Photomicrograph by Michaela Stephan; field of view 7.19 mm.
Closer examination revealed these features were likely artificially acid-etched flow lines. The presence of gas bubbles coupled with flow lines led the author to infer an artificial glass or a natural glass, possibly moldavite, though moldavite has more natural-looking flow lines (figure 2). The SG reading was also slightly higher than the expected SG of 2.36 for moldavite. Additionally, moldavite typically contains numerous gas bubbles. Suspecting an artificial glass, the author analyzed the stone with a Fourier-transform infrared (FTIR) spectrometer. The FTIR reading showed absorption bands at approximately 2900 and 3480 nm, which confirmed an artificial glass.
Moldavites are a form of tektite, an impact glass created by the melting of rock caused when a meteorite strikes the earth’s surface. The most famous moldavites, found in southern Bohemia in the Czech Republic, were formed by the impact of the meteor that created the Ries crater 500 km away in southern Germany 14.7 million years ago. With rising prices for moldavite over the past few years, moldavite imitations have become more prevalent (Spring 2015 Gem News International, pp. 103–104). @chapter:26 @chapter:0 @chapter:26


# Publication Year: 2019
# Title: Emerald in Rock Crystal Quartz
# Abstract: A prismatic emerald crystal within a rock crystal quartz. Photomicrograph by Nattida Ng-Pooresatien; field of view 12.5 mm.

Rock crystal is a transparent and colorless macrocrystalline variety of quartz (SiO2) that often has cavities containing liquid and gas two-phase inclusions. Many different minerals also form as inclusions within rock crystal quartz. Typical varieties of included quartz for gem use are rutilated quartz, tourmalinated quartz, and strawberry quartz. Specimens may also contain several other types of mineral inclusions.
Recently, the author examined a 10.95 ct rock crystal quartz cabochon that contained elongate rod-shaped green crystals (see above). The green crystals showed hexagonal cross-section and were identified by Raman spectroscopy as beryl. Ultraviolet/visible/near-infrared (UV-Vis-NIR) spectroscopy showed a chromium (Cr) spectrum, which confirmed that the green crystals were emerald. This amazing inclusion has been previously reported in a rock crystal quartz specimen (Fall 2008 Lab Notes, p. 258), but this is the first time the author has examined a gem-quality rock crystal quartz cabochon with a perfectly hexagonal emerald crystal inclusion. @chapter:26 @chapter:0 @chapter:26


# Publication Year: 1982
# Title: Tourmaline as an Inclusion in Zambian Emeralds
# Abstract: This article reports the identification of tourmaline crystals as inclusions in emeralds from Zambia, in south-central Africa. To understand the paragenesis responsible for this unusual association, the geology of the area is reviewed. The gemological properties of these emeralds are also noted. @chapter:12 @chapter:0 @chapter:12


# Publication Year: 2013
# Title: Very Large CVD-Grown Synthetic Diamond
# Abstract: Figure 1. This 2.16 ct marquise (13.42 × 6.73 × 3.94 mm) is the largest CVD synthetic diamond tested by GIA. It had J/K color, with a brownish tint.

              In the last decade, we have witnessed rapid improvement in the quality and size of lab-grown CVD synthetic diamonds. The New York laboratory recently tested a 2.16 ct CVD synthetic from Scio Diamond Technology Corp. (figure 1), the largest specimen GIA has seen so far.
This marquise, which measured 13.42 × 6.73 × 3.94 mm, was more than twice the size of a 1.05 ct pear shape examined in 2010, previously the largest CVD synthetic tested by GIA (see Summer 2010 G&G Lab Notes, pp. 143–144). It had J/K color with a brownish tint, and microscopic observation revealed small fractures, pinpoints, and non-diamond-carbon black inclusions, resulting in an SI2 clarity grade.

The mid-infrared absorption spectrum revealed that the diamond could be classified as type IIa. It was very pure in the infrared region, with no nitrogen  or hydrogen-related absorption features. Photoluminescence analysis at liquid-nitrogen temperature with varying laser excitations displayed typical CVD features: very strong emissions from N-V centers, moderate emission lines at 736.6/736.9 nm from the [Si-V]– center, and the CVD-specific 596/597 nm pair (figure 20). Also detected was weak emission from the H3 defect with a zero-phonon line at 503.1 nm, making for an interesting combination of optical centers. Under the short-wave UV radiation of the DiamondView, the table and crown facets showed pure blue fluorescence while the pavilion displayed banded orange fluorescence with irregular blue fluorescence regions. Very strong internal stress with irregular patterns was confirmed under the microscope using cross-polarized light.

Testing of this large, gem-quality CVD synthetic underscored the rapid improvement of lab-grown diamond technology. It is foreseeable that more of these products will continue to reach the jewelry industry. @chapter:9 @chapter:1 @chapter:9


# Publication Year: 2021
# Title: Atypical Dyed Beryl
# Abstract: Figure 1. A mounted green stone with a superficial resemblance to emerald was later revealed to be dyed beryl. Photo by Sean-Andrew Z. Pyle.

A green stone mounted in a ring was recently submitted to the New York lab. The ring’s prongs prevented a full reading of the stone’s refractive index, but a maximum reading of 1.578 indicated the material was potentially beryl. Face-up, the even distribution of color made an identification of emerald appear likely (figure 1).

Figure 2. Thin, evenly distributed concentrations of green dye in the beryl, as seen through the table. Photomicrograph by Tyler Smith; field of view 1.76 mm.
However, careful microscopic examination revealed an even distribution of thin green zoning resembling mica platelets typical of amazonite (figure 2).

Figure 3. Basal cleavage under oblique illumination. Shallow cavities can be seen toward the top, where the fissures reach the surface of the stone. Photomicrograph by Tyler Smith; field of view 2.90 mm.
Oblique fiber-optic lighting exposed a network of incipient basal cleavage perpendicular to the c-axis (figure 3). Using a handheld spectroscope, a characteristic of dyed green beryl was observed: a broad absorption band in the red region in the absence of chromium lines. Denser green color concentrations were also present in larger surface-reaching fissures.
While dyed beryl is occasionally submitted to GIA, it is mostly translucent and immediately identifiable due to its unnatural color. This impressive emerald imitation was the first of its kind submitted to the New York or Carlsbad labs. It serves as an important reminder that careful, methodical gemological testing is necessary to detect these subtler treatments. @chapter:13 @chapter:0 @chapter:13


# Publication Year: 2012
# Title: CVD Synthetic Diamonds from Gemesis Corp.
# Abstract: Gemological and spectroscopic properties of CVD synthetic diamonds from Gemesis Corp. were examined. Their color (colorless, near-colorless, and faint, ranging from F to L) and clarity (typically VVS) grades were comparable to those of top natural diamonds, and their average weight was nearly 0.5 ct. Absorption spectra in the mid- and near-infrared regions were free from defect-related features, except for very weak absorption attributed to isolated nitrogen, but all samples were classified as type IIa. Varying intensities of [Si-V]- and isolated nitrogen were detected with UV-Vis-NIR absorption spectroscopy. Electron paramagnetic resonance was used to quantify the neutral single substitutional nitrogen content. Photoluminescence spectra were dominated by N-V centers, [Si-V]-, H3, and many unassigned weak emissions. The combination of optical centers strongly suggests that post-growth treatments were applied to improve color and transparency. PL spectroscopy at low temperature and UV fluorescence imaging are critical in separating these synthetic products from their natural counterparts. @chapter:9 @chapter:1 @chapter:9


# Publication Year: 2019
# Title: Rain Cloud in Alexandrite
# Abstract: An alexandrite seen with fine milky particles and bands of silk resembling a rain cloud. Photomicrograph by Britni LeCroy; field of view 2.90 mm.

An example of nature imitating nature was seen in a 0.73 ct faceted alexandrite showcasing an inclusion reminiscent of a rain cloud (see above). The “cloud” was composed of white particles oriented as parallel bands that displayed a cloud-like silhouette when viewed at an angle. The “rain” was composed of fine oriented reflective needles commonly referred to as silk. Fiber-optic lighting allowed for a concentration of white light to be seen under the cloud, creating an appearance of lightning. The inclusion scene observed in this gem is an interesting novelty that any gemologist can appreciate. @chapter:3 @chapter:0 @chapter:3


# Publication Year: 2017
# Title: Quarterly Crystal:Mystery in Topaz
# Abstract: Figure 1. The interior of this 5.10 ct Sri Lankan topaz is dominated by a dramatic inclusion scene. Photo by Kevin Schumacher.

Occasionally we run into an inclusion identification problem we just can’t solve. Such was the case with the 5.10 ct topaz from Elahera, Sri Lanka, shown in figure 1. This transparent colorless crystal, acquired from Kusum S. Naotunne (Colombo, Sri Lanka), hosts a prominent translucent light green crystal and a flowery cluster of hexagonal opaque silvery black plates (figure 2). The bodycolor and characteristic form of the green inclusion suggest fluorite; this was confirmed by laser Raman micro-spectrometry.

Figure 2. While the light green crystal was identified as fluorite by Raman analysis, the
opaque platy inclusions were too deep to be identified. Photomicrograph by Nathan
Renfro; field of view 5.87 mm.
Analysis of the opaque black plates was a more difficult matter. GIA’s Carlsbad lab staff employed Raman to identify the plates, but the inclusion was too deep to get any signal other than the spectral lines of the topaz host. Energy-dispersive X-ray fluorescence (EDXRF) was attempted to pick up any hints of the plates’ chemical composition, but useful information continued to elude such efforts. It became clear that destructive analysis would be needed to clearly identify the black plates. Since this was an inclusion combination, we decided that this topaz should be preserved unaltered for future exploration. Surely one day technological advances will allow the identification of this mystery inclusion, but for now it is enough to enjoy the aesthetics of such a beautiful included crystal and the fascinating exploration of its inner world. @chapter:8 @chapter:0 @chapter:8


# Publication Year: 2014
# Title: Chameleon Diamond with Nickel Absorption Band
# Abstract: Figure 1. The chameleon diamond is shown before and after heating (left and right). Photos by Robison McMurtry.

              The Carlsbad laboratory recently examined a 0.31 ct Light greenish yellow marquise-cut diamond. The stone displayed the strong yellow fluorescence, persistent yellow phosphorescence, and green color component of a chameleon diamond. A chameleon diamond has a green or greenish color component under normal conditions. When heated or left in the dark for long periods of time, the green component temporarily disappears, giving way to an orange component. Figure 1 shows the diamond before and immediately after heating, in which the removal of the green component leads to an orange-dominant hue, demonstrating that the stone was in fact a chameleon diamond. Unfortunately, the stone’s low saturation makes the effect less noticeable.

Examination of the visible-NIR spectrum revealed a noticeable nickel-related absorption band at 685 nm (figure 2). DiamondView images were taken to prove the stone was not synthetic, as nickel is a common catalyst in HPHT synthetics (figure 3). While nickel has long been known to occur as a trace element in chameleon diamonds (T. Hainschwang et al., “A gemological study of a collection of chameleon diamonds,” Spring 2005 G&G, pp. 20–34), its role in the color-change effect is unknown. Nickel has also been reported as a cause of green coloration in certain diamonds (W. Wang et al., “Natural type Ia diamond with green-yellow color due to Ni-related defects,” Fall 2007 G&G, pp. 240–243), but this may be the first time it has been identified as the major cause of a green component in a chameleon. The rarity of chameleon diamond, combined with the rarity of Ni-related natural green diamonds, makes this a truly unique specimen.

	Figure 2. The absorption spectrum of the chameleon diamond shows a nickel-related band at 685 nm.

	Figure 3. DiamondView imaging showed uneven blue and green fluorescent zones, proving the stone’s natural origin. @chapter:22 @chapter:1 @chapter:22


# Publication Year: 2018
# Title: IAC Conference on Responsible Gold
# Abstract: Barbara Palumbo, Monica Stephenson, and Sarah Yood participate in the panel “Who’s Got the Power? Influencers, Ethics, and the Regulations of Social Media.” Photo by Alice Catherine Young.

Gold: Vortex, Virtues, and Values was hosted by Initiatives in Art and Culture (IAC) at Bohemian National Hall in New York City, April 12–13. Now in its eighth year, the conference has become an annual industry gathering for those looking to evaluate the market, discover exceptional work, and discuss key gold-related issues.
Mark Hanna (Richline Group) opened the conference, stating that it is the leading gold event in the United States and introducing IAC founder Lisa Koenigsberg, who discussed the importance of bringing together people from various backgrounds. “Gold is the substance that can rivet our attention because the reality is the thing we ascribe value to in a social compact. Everyone in this room agrees that this has value.”
In the kickoff presentation, Jeffrey Christian (CPM Group) presented graphs showing that interest rates and gold prices are not correlated but indicated that surplus labor will become a problem due to computer-assisted manufacturing. Christian recommended gold as a way to diversify investment portfolios. In assessing international gold investment demand, he concluded that Indian gold investment is in long-term decline and that Chinese gold investment, while down from 2013, is ultimately rising.
Next was the update from Washington, DC. Tiffany Stevens (Jewelers Vigilance Committee) addressed the status of Federal Trade Commission (FTC) guides, which are meant to champion consumers and protect them from unfair competition. Once the guides are issued, the JVC will translate them for the industry. Highlighting hot topics, Stevens addressed service applications of precious metals, advertising and disclosure, and anti-money laundering efforts. Susan Thea Posnock (Jewelers of America) discussed the importance of advocacy, touching upon hearings on sales tax fairness that could reflect the changing marketplace. Elizabeth Orlando (U.S. Department of State) discussed her team’s work with conflict minerals and diamonds, particularly regarding the Kimberley Process and the Dodd-Frank Act. Mark Hanna observed that the requirement for new FTC members to review regulations has slowed down the overall process. Linus Drogs (AU Enterprises) addressed regulations that dictate what can and cannot be marked “Made in the USA” domestically versus globally.
Andrea Hill (Hill Management Group) reframed the use of technology in business. Hill emphasized the importance of marketing coherently across platforms and offering customers help with the decision-making process. She noted that consumers generally shop online and buy in-store. Making the experience seamless over the phone and approaching marketing from the standpoint of consumer desire are key.
Next, Brandee Dallow (Fine Girl Luxury Brand Building & Communications) had a sit-down with jewelry designer Alexandra Mor, who is working with Balinese artisans to promote the tagua nut as a luxury alternative to elephant ivory. Taking innovation to the next level, Mor has created a material out of tagua that can be 3D printed to solve the problem of the nut’s limiting size.
Independent consultant Christina Miller moderated a session on sustainable jewelry. Miller laid out international commitments regarding responsible sourcing, celebrating the progress made and hoping “to push the needle further” during the gold conference. Monica Stephenson (idazzle.com and Anza Gems) spoke on the importance of reinvesting in source communities. Wing Yau (WWAKE) discussed sourcing in Colombia, where she has visited model mines. Blair Lauren Brown (VERTE Essentials) talked about the 120-year legacy of the Alaskan gold nugget jewelry she works in and how it supports local mining. Stewart Grice (Hoover & Strong) noted that the company imports from Peru, Colombia, and Mongolia, bringing gold to the U.S. and either selling it as 24K or karating the materials for use. The premium on fair-mined products goes back directly to the local communities. Third-generation retailer Robert Goodman (Robert Goodman Jewelers) discussed his commitment to bringing in designers dedicated to sustainability. Nina Farran (Fashionkind) came to the table with a style slant. Fashionkind, which stands for “fashion in humankind,” began as a blog before launching a retail platform. The group also spoke of industry collectives driving down prices in sustainable sourcing as consumer education drives the demand for sustainable products.
After the sustainability panel, Toby Pomeroy was presented with IAC’s inaugural award for Leadership and Responsible Practice in Jewelry. The award recognizes a transformational contribution to the worldwide gem and jewelry industry. A leader in the responsible sourcing movement, Pomeroy also founded the Mercury Free Mining Challenge, which seeks to discover a safe replacement for mercury.
Next, Jean-Jacques Grimaud (SolidWorks Sell) delivered a presentation on optimizing the consumer experience through personalization. Technology keeps the customer fully engaged with the product, while brands are able to maintain control of design integrity. Grimaud demonstrated a sample personalized software for ring design that is accessible from a computer, tablet, or phone—all on the cloud.
Thursday’s closing panel on blockchain technology was jointly presented by Mark Hanna, Marla Beck Hedworth (UL), and Catherine Malkova (IBM). The overview of blockchain technology included provenance assured by the blockchain ledger, permissions to ensure visibility and security, consensus by all parties to verify transactions, immutability, smart contracts, and finality once an operation is completed. Trustchain is proposed to be a consortium permissioned private blockchain, focused on the provenance of a diamond engagement ring from the diamond and gold mines, tracking the full supply chain from the mine to the end consumer.
In the evening, IAC hosted “A Rising Tide: Women in the Jewelry Industry.” Hedda Schupak (Centurion) moderated the discussion, and panelists included: designer Wendy Brandes, Brandee Dallow, Jenny Luker (Platinum Guild International), and Barbara Palumbo (Adornmentality.com and WhatsOnHerWrist.com). A variety of topics were addressed, including: women’s involvement in political movements and willingness to perform unpaid labor to promote change, the increase of more women working independently due to lack of upward mobility in corporate settings, minimal presence of women on industry boards for products directing marketing towards women, and more.
Day two started with “Moda Operandi: A New Business Model for Jewelry.” Mickey Alam Khan (Mobile Marketer) interviewed Deborah Nicodemus (Moda Operandi). The company’s online luxury business model is currently based on three channels: trunk shows, boutique business, and the showroom. Of the three models, only the boutique carries inventory.
A panel moderated by Rob Bates (JCK) that included David Bouffard, Toby Pomeroy, Christina Miller, Tiffany Stevens, and Elizabeth Orlando opened by discussing issues related to gold. Orlando detailed the smuggling of artisanally mined gold, money laundering problems, gold’s use to support armed groups and cartels, and labor problems such as the U.S. interest in eliminating forced labor, mercury use, deforestation, and wildlife trafficking. Bouffard spoke on Signet’s efforts to identify the sources of its gold. After years of coordination and tracking from banks to refineries, Signet now knows where 99% of its gold comes from. The company is on the ground to make sure gold that comes from the legitimate supply chain and that workers are paid fair wages, helping promote a responsible cycle. Stevens described how the JVC office helps the industry combat money laundering. Pomeroy noted that his group is raising a million-dollar prize for a safe alternative to mercury in gold mining. Miller spoke about the Initiative for Responsible Mining Assurance and its work on large-scale mining standards. Five sectors form the current setup: mining companies, purchasing companies, labor unions, NGOs, and mining-affected communities. She concluded by reminding the audience that we rely on mining every day, so as an industry we need to advocate for it to be done responsibly.
Leo and Ginnie de Vroomen, the husband-and-wife designers behind the de Vroomen brand, presented selections from their stunning body of work, including the step-by-step making of a gold repoussé bangle. They use brightly colored gemstones and enamel and a variety of traditional metalsmithing techniques to create sculptural forms.
Enameler Jane Short detailed her more than 40 years of enameling. Her enamel is focused on the interplay of color or self-expression. Short presented examples of enamel throughout history, explaining technique and chronicling the creation of an enamel on silver beaker.
Next, designer Jen Townsend, Renée Zettle-Sterling (Society of North American Goldsmiths), and Lin Stanionis (University of Kansas) spoke on casting. Townsend and Zettle-Sterling are co-authors of the new book CAST: Art and Objects Made Using Humanity’s Most Transformational Process, which covers jewelry, architecture, and everyday objects made by casting. They described how life events influenced their designs and later inspired them to write the book to combat the stigma associated with the process. The pages feature exceptional cast work, from ancient jewelry to computer-aided design. Stanionis related how casting is a part of her jewelry design process. She explained her dedication to expressing human experience. Her pieces use organic forms such as rattlesnake vertebrae, bones, cracked eggshells, and leaves. She and her husband also excavate fossils and incorporate elements such as dinosaur bones, memorializing links to the past.
Andrea Hill returned to moderate “Industrial Revolution 4.0: Cultivating and Perpetuating Old World Skills.” Patricia Madeja (Pratt Institute) noted that our country must do more to appreciate makers. Ted Doudak (RIVA Precision Manufacturing) added that there are rules for supply and demand—we should see where the demand is, understand what crafts need to be filled, and encourage those. He also emphasized the importance of valuing artisans by compensating them well and acknowledging their accomplishments. Rich Youmans (MJSA), Katrin Zimmermann (Ex Ovo), and designer goldsmith Ann Cahoon rallied around education and the importance of teaching and apprenticeships outside the family.
“Who’s Got the Power? Influencers, Ethics, and the Regulations of Social Media” ended the conference with a follow-up panel from last year. Sarah Yood (Jewelers Vigilance Committee), Barbara Palumbo, Wendy Brandes, and Monica Stephenson (see above) interacted with the audience, under the moderation of Peggy Jo Donahue. Yood explained that the FTC is monitoring social media channels, and action can be taken if material connections between influencers and products are not clearly disclosed. She urged the audience to review the FTC endorsement guides and a new Frequently Asked Questions section on their website regarding the endorsement guides. Other topics included early disclosure of sponsorship on posts, pitching, and the purchasing of fake followers. Stephenson added, “Generosity, plus vulnerability, plus accountability, plus candor, equals trust.” The panel also took up the issue of followers, and how the question of how many followers an influencer had was usually brought up before getting to know the influencer. The use of fake and purchased followers has also become rampant.
The excitement around the annual IAC conference was palpable. Attendees anticipated a spectrum of calls to action after the gathering. The networking opportunities and the chance to appreciate gold among like-minded colleagues made for an enjoyable and enlightening experience. To learn more about the conference and other upcoming IAC events, visit www.artinitiatives.com. @chapter:42 @chapter:3 @chapter:42


# Publication Year: 1981
# Title: Spring 1981 G&G Lab Notes
# Abstract: Trapiche Aquamarine
Cyclotron-Treated Diamonds
Natural Radiation Stains in Diamond
Diamond Inclusions
An Unusual Natural Diamond
Notes on Diamond Cutting
IIB or Not IIB Diamond
Emerald
Malachite
Cultured Pearls
Ruby
Sapphire
Spinel

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:43 @chapter:1 @chapter:43


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Winter 2020 G&G Available Now
# Abstract: The Winter issue covers an array of insightful topics, including treatment detection, geographic origin separation, and more. We open with a characterization study of Madagascan pink sapphire before and after low-temperature heat treatment and the techniques used to detect such treatment. Two articles investigate various advanced analytical methods used for origin determination of blue amber and Vietnamese sapphire, respectively. And faceting patterns of from a bygone era see renewed interest with a historical examination of rose-cut colored stones.
Low-Temperature Heat Treatment of Pink Sapphires from Ilakaka, Madagascar
The lead article, by Sudarat Saeseaw and co-authors, studies the effects of low-temperature heat treatment on inclusions, particularly zircon and monazite crystals, in pink sapphire from this locality. Results show that Raman and Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy are useful techniques to detect low-temperature heat treatment and may help laboratories set criteria for detecting treatment of this nature.
Baroque-Era Rose Cuts of Colored Stones: Highlights from the Second Half of the Seventeenth Century
Karl Schmetzer provides an in-depth profile on the faceting patterns of colored stones from the Baroque era. In this study, five gem-encrusted objects originally belonging to the archbishops and prince-electors of Trier and Cologne are systematically evaluated to shed light on the variety of rose-cut facet arrangements available during the latter half of the seventeenth century.
Fluorescence Characteristics of Blue Amber from the Dominican Republic, Mexico, and Myanmar
Amber showing very strong blue fluorescence under sunlight is highly sought after in the Chinese gem market. A research team led by Zhiqing Zhang shows that a combination of visual features, UV-Vis-NIR spectroscopy, and excitation-emission mapping can aid in identifying “blue amber” from each of the three principal localities.
Mineral Inclusions in Sapphire from Basaltic Terranes in Southern Vietnam: Indicator of Formation Model
Southern Vietnam plays host to four main sapphire-producing areas, including Dak Nong, Di Linh, Binh Thuan, and Krong Nang. Utilizing advanced analytical techniques, Doan Thi Anh Vu and co-authors study the chemistry of mineral inclusions to reconstruct the formation model of sapphire in this volcanic area. The results of this work are useful for origin determination.
Lab Notes
GIA laboratory staff members present their latest findings in the Lab Notes section, including an “all-American” diamond from Crater of Diamonds State Park in Arkansas, a striking purplish pink unheated Montana sapphire, and the largest CVD laboratory-grown diamond submitted to GIA yet.
Micro-World
The Micro-World section, dedicated to the inner world of gemstones, features a pyrope-spessartine garnet proudly displaying an unusual inclusion of blue apatite, a Mogok ruby paired with a rare bright blue lazurite inclusion, and a Mong Hsu ruby containing a partially healed fissure with a snowflake-like pattern of flux residue.
Diamonds from the Deep
Karen Smit and Steven Shirey examine the large-scale tectonic processes that have produced a critical carbon reservoir where the majority of diamonds are stored. Age-dated diamonds from the lithospheric mantle help us better understand continent evolution and carbon cycling between Earth’s crust and mantle.
Gem News International
Finally, GNI correspondents from around the world report on a new emerald locality in Southern California, distinctive dendritic inclusions in Chinese nephrite from Dahua, laser-engraved rock crystal as a new imitation of phantom quartz, and chemical analysis of rhodium-plated etched iron meteorites. @chapter:0 @chapter:0 @chapter:0


# Publication Year: 1984
# Title: Spring 1984 Gem News International
# Abstract: Diamonds from Africa
            Companies Join Forces to Mine Diamonds in Guinea
            Exploration off Namaqualand
            Government of Swaziland Grants License for Exploration
Diamonds from Australia
            Findings at Limestone Creek, Western Australia
            First Argyle Diamonds Sold in Antwerp
Diamonds from India
News of the Famous Eureka Diamond
Colored Stones
            Correction: Brazilian Amethyst
            Gem Exploration in Southern India
            Heat Treatment in Sri Lanka
            Korean Amethyst
Precious Metals
            Lady Bountiful Looks Promising
            Rich Gulch California Gold
            Soviets Recover Gold from Industrial Waste
            French Study of Worldwide Gold Deposits Now Available
Synthetics
            Seiko Growing Synthetic Gemstones by the Floating-Zone Method
Announcements
            Smithsonian Revises Gemstone Donation Procedure
            Fifth Annual Course in Antique Jewelry and Gemstones
            Entry Forms for First Ever National Competitive Exhibition Available
            Noted speakers at AFMS/CFMS Gem & Mineral Show in San Diego

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:34 @chapter:3 @chapter:34


# Publication Year: 2015
# Title: Pink and Reddish Purple Cobaltocalcite
# Abstract: Figure 1. The pink and reddish purple cobaltocalcite specimens (246.3 and 361.0 g, respectively) are shown with some of the wafers cut from them.

Cobaltocalcite is a pink to purple variety of calcite. The mineral is popular as a collector’s item because of its striking purplish pink color, which is caused, as the name suggests, by the presence of cobalt. Cobalt occurs in calcite in octahedral coordination as Co2+ (E. Fritsch and G.R. Rossman, “An update on color in gems. Part 1: Introduction and colors caused by dispersed metal ions,” Fall 1987 G&G, pp.126–139).

Recently, GIA’s laboratory in Bangkok examined the botryoidal purplish pink and rough reddish purple cobaltocalcite specimens shown in figure 1. Gemological properties were obtained from both, and we also prepared several polished wafers for advanced testing.

Standard gemological testing of these translucent stones revealed strong double refraction with an RI of 1.49–1.66 (as expected for a carbonate material) and an SG of approximately 2.70. The reddish purple cobaltocalcite exhibited a very weak purplish pink reaction to long-wave UV radiation and an inert reaction to short-wave UV. The purplish pink stone had a moderate orangy pink reaction to long-wave UV and weak pink to short-wave. Magnification revealed white particulate flakes of a fibrous nature forming bands in the reddish purple specimen, while the purplish pink one contained pronounced irregular fibrous inclusions forming a mosaic pattern in areas (figure 2).

Figure 2. Left: The reddish purple cobaltocalcite showed a banded structure formed by white particles with a fibrous appearance. Field of view 4.1 mm. Right: Irregular bands of fibrous inclusions in the pink stone formed a mosaic pattern. Fiber-optic illumination, field of view 4.1 mm. Photomicrographs by Jonathan Muyal.
The UV-Vis-NIR spectrum of the reddish purple cobaltocalcite wafer (figure 3) showed a dominant absorption band at 543 nm and a small peak at 431 nm. The pink wafer only showed a weak absorption feature at 543 nm. Color calculations (see box A in R. Lu, “Color origin of lavender jadeite: An alternative approach,” Winter 2012 G&G, pp. 273–283) were consistent with the respective reddish purple and purplish pink color of the two specimens (figure 3, inset).

Figure 3. UV-Vis-NIR spectra in the 300–1000 nm region showed broad absorption bands at approximately 431 and 543 nm in the reddish purple cobaltocalcite, and a weak broad band at 543 nm in the pink stone. Inset: The reddish purple and pink stones’ CIE L*a*b* color coordinates (71, 47, 24 and 96, 3, 4, respectively) are reproduced from their UV-visible spectra.
Elemental analysis was performed using laser ablation–inductively coupled plasma–mass spectrometry (LA-ICP-MS). Besides the main constituent calcium, both the reddish purple and the purplish pink cobaltocalcites showed significant amounts of Co at 5673 and 730 ppmw, respectively. The reddish purple sample’s higher concentration is consistent with a higher Co level produces a more saturated color. The concentration of Co is consistent with the intensity of the 543 nm absorption bands in the visible region of both samples. The purplish pink cobaltocalcite also showed 8719 ppmw of Mn. Manganese can cause pink to purple color in appropriate concentrations, so its contribution to the purplish pink color in this material may require further analysis. @chapter:15 @chapter:0 @chapter:15


# Publication Year: 2022
# Title: Arsenopyrite in Smoky Quartz
# Abstract: Figure 1. Blades of the iron arsenic sulfide mineral arsenopyrite seen in a smoky quartz from the Huanggang mine in Inner Mongolia. Photomicrograph by Nathan Renfro; field of view 4.67 mm.
The authors recently examined a smoky quartz gem with interesting bladed inclusions of arsenopyrite (FeAsS), an iron arsenic sulfide mineral. The inclusions generally occurred as thick blades with striated faces in a dark gray color (figure 1). One such inclusion that was exposed to the surface and polished through showed a silvery gray coloration. Energy-dispersive X-ray fluorescence testing revealed significant amounts of iron and arsenic, consistent with the mineral arsenopyrite. The stone was reportedly from the Huanggang mine in Inner Mongolia, China. It was also reported that this stone was cut from a single large crystal that yielded approximately 20 such gems with arsenopyrite inclusions. Also present were numerous fluid inclusions, some of which showed vibrant thin-film interference colors in reflected light (figure 2). These are the first arsenopyrite inclusions the authors have examined in Mongolian quartz.

Figure 2. Fluid inclusions that showed vibrant interference colors in reflected light were also observed in the smoky quartz. Photomicrograph by Nathan Renfro; field of view 4.36 mm. @chapter:15 @chapter:0 @chapter:15


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Ametrine Description
# Abstract: This amazing ametrine trilliant cut features a multitude of facets to create internal reflections that blend the amethyst and citrine colors. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA, courtesy Minerales y Metales del Oriente, Bolivia, SA.

                      Transparent, bicolored quartz with the colors of both amethyst and citrine in the same gem is called ametrine or amethyst-citrine. The contrasting colors give it an intriguing appearance.

Fine ametrine shows medium dark to moderately strong orange, and vivid to strong purple or violetish purple. Larger gems, usually those over 5 carats, tend to show the most intensely saturated hues. Dealers look for an attractive half-and-half distribution of each color, with a sharp boundary between the two colors at the center of the fashioned gemstone.

Ametrine is often cut as a rectangular step cut because that style nicely displays the bicolor effect. Cutters try to emphasize both colors equally.

	Rectangular step cuts clearly show off the striking bicolor nature of these ametrines. Photo by Maha Tannous/GIA.
Cutters  sometimes fashion ametrines as mixed cuts or brilliant cuts and use internal reflections to mingle the amethyst and citrine colors. Ametrine is also popular in free-form or fantasy cuts.

Ametrine is a form of quartz in which the colors of the amethyst and citrine quartz varieties are present in the same crystal. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA, courtesy Minerales y Metales del Oriente, Bolivia, SA.

	A unique display of ametrine’s colors blends and contrasts in this fantasy cut by noted gem designer John Dyer. He named his creation Ametrine SunRay ™. Photo by Lydia Dyer, © John Dyer & Co., gem courtesy John Dyer & Co.
There’s only one commercial source of natural ametrine: a deposit in eastern Bolivia, close to the Brazilian border. Legend has it that a Spanish conquistador discovered the location in the 1600s, but it was lost for more than three centuries. Ametrine began appearing on the market again during the 1970s. The mine, the Anahi, also produces natural amethyst and citrine.

	The Anahi mine in eastern Bolivia is the source of these rough ametrine crystals. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA, courtesy Bart Curren. @chapter:16 @chapter:0 @chapter:16


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Jade Description
# Abstract: Jadeite jade, often cut as a cabochon, is one of the most valuable and culturally significant gemstones. - Courtesy Mason-Kay Fine Jade Jewelry

Among gemologists, jadeite and nephrite have long been considered the materials that may be referred to as jade. More recently some green omphacite has also been included in the definition. These are actually metamorphic rocks made up of tiny interlocking mineral crystals which make the gems exceptionally tough.

Jadeite can be semi-transparent to opaque and comes in a wide range of attractive colors: many shades of green, yellow, and reddish orange, plus white, gray, black, brown, and lavender (often a light purple or light grayish violet). The coloration is often unevenly distributed, giving jadeite an interesting visual texture carvers use to create imaginative and intriguing effects.

Nephrite ranges from translucent to opaque and can be light to dark green, yellow, brown, black, gray, or white. Its colors tend to be more muted than jadeite.

Jadeite jade comes in a variety of colors. Green is the most valuable. - Courtesy Mason-Kay Fine Jade Jewelry
Omphacite has typically been thought of as dark green to black. However, some green omphacite has been seen in the GIA laboratory that not only has a similar color to fine green jadeite but also has the same gemological properties as jadeite. Omphacite can be identified by its Raman spectra, which requires advanced testing techniques.

Modern gemologists use the word “jade” as a generic term for nephrite, jadeite, and under certain conditions green omphacite. “Fei Cui” is a traditional Chinese term for jadeite jade but is not universally accepted. Today the term is used in many places in Asia to refer to several materials including jadeite, kosmochlor and omphacite.

Rough jadeite jade often takes the form of boulders. This one from Myanmar weighs 23 metric tons.
These gems have been linked throughout history. In fact, the term jade has sometimes been erroneously applied to a number of gems and ornamental materials resembling jade, and even some manmade equivalents. @chapter:46 @chapter:0 @chapter:46


# Publication Year: 2020
# Title: Nigerian Gems and Jewelry
# Abstract: Figure 1. Strands of Nigerian beryl in assorted colors. Photo by Kevin Schumacher.

During the JCK show in Tucson, GIA had the opportunity to meet up with Amina Egwuatu, founder of Mina Stones. Mrs. Egwuatu, a GIA Graduate Gemologist from Abuja, Nigeria, started the company with the aim of promoting African culture through gems and jewelry. Mina Stones sources, cuts, designs, and manufactures everything in their workshops to keep as much value as possible in Africa. Mrs. Egwuatu works directly with the miners and has visited many of the sites where her stones are produced. This allows traceability throughout the entire supply chain. Mina Stones helped to establish the AGJES Sparkle Foundation, which supports miners through education about their stones, helps them with administration, and provides tools. By working this way, Mina Stones improves the conditions of its miners and suppliers.

	Amina Egwuatu, founder of Mina Stones in Nigeria

Nigeria is known for tourmalines that possess a wide range of colors, rubellite being the most famous. A more recent rubellite discovery near Calabar, Cross River State, has produced higher volumes (though slightly lower quality) than the original find in Oyo State, which has not produced for a long time.
Apart from the red variety, this gem is also found in green, pink, and various combinations of these colors. About 20 years ago, there was even a discovery of cuprian tourmaline in western Nigeria that produced some fine material for a short period. According to various sources, a new pocket was discovered in early 2020 that made this material available in the market.
Another common stone from Nigeria is beryl. Various regions in the country produce fine aquamarine, morganite, heliodor, and green beryl (figure 1). While there are many emerald deposits known throughout the country, facet-grade material is limited to an area in Nasarawa State.
Sapphires are found throughout the eastern and central parts of Nigeria. In several areas such as Antang, Bauchi, Kaduna, and Gombe, the production is exclusively from artisanal miners. The better-known Mambilla Plateau has a few larger operations, but small-scale mining is prevalent.
Nigerian sapphires are typically dark blue, although goods found in the southeastern part of the country tend to be lighter in color. Parti-colored, yellow, purplish, and green sapphires are also common.

Figure 2. This necklace makes use of the Arewa knot, a symbol of unity. Photo by Kevin Schumacher.
Mina Stones’ jewelry is inspired by Nigerian traditions. The country has long been known for its blacksmiths and goldsmiths, resulting in a strong jewelry culture. Mina Stones is trying to revive the skills, patterns, and heritage by making use of traditional alphabets and symbols. One example is a necklace featuring the Arewa knot (figure 2), a symbol that represents the unity of the different people in northern Nigeria.
Another collection draws inspiration from the city of Ife, in southwestern Nigeria. According to local beliefs, the city was found by a supreme deity and served as the seat for a long line of dynasties.
Mina Stones aims to represent Nigerian gems and jewelry. The country is an important supplier of many colored gemstones that have remained largely unknown to the general public. @chapter:30 @chapter:0 @chapter:30


# Publication Year: 2021
# Title: Chondrodite in Red Spinel from Mogok, Myanmar
# Abstract: Chondrodite crystal in a red spinel from Mogok viewed under darkfield, diffuse, and fiber-optic illumination. Photomicrograph by Charuwan Khowpong; field of view 1.05 mm.

Myanmar, formerly known as Burma, is one of the world’s leading sources of gemstones. This includes red spinel with remarkable color, clarity, and appearance. A 1.507 ct red spinel collected from the Thit Saint Kone mining area in Mogok is part of GIA’s research collection. Its inclusion scene is dominated by a single round crystal with small trigons and a rough surface texture (see above). The crystal was identified as chondrodite by Raman spectroscopy. Chondrodite is a magnesium-rich variety within the humite mineral group. This mineral requires relatively high temperature and pressure conditions to form, which are found in the Mogok Metamorphic Belt. Chondrodite forms during contact metamorphism of magnesium-rich limestones and felsic intrusions.
Since chondrodite and spinel are both found in metamorphosed Mg-rich marbles, it makes sense that they occur in association. Nevertheless, the combination of both minerals has rarely been documented in gems and, as such, is a potential indicator of Burmese origin in gem-quality red spinel (M.M. Phyo et al., “Spinel from Mogok, Myanmar—A detailed inclusion study by Raman microspectroscopy and scanning electron microscopy,” Journal of Gemmology, Vol. 36, No. 5, 2019, p. 423). @chapter:14 @chapter:0 @chapter:14


# Publication Year: 2021
# Title: Unique Circuit Board–Like Surface Pattern on Tourmaline
# Abstract: Figure 1. This 0.70 ct tourmaline shows unique surface patterns. Photo by Shunsuke Nagai.

The Tokyo laboratory recently received a 0.70 ct blue-green oval modified brilliant measuring 6.62 × 4.99 × 3.10 mm (figure 1). Standard gemological testing yielded a refractive index of 1.620–1.640, uniaxial interference pattern, and a hydrostatic specific gravity of 3.10, all consistent with tourmaline. No Cu was detected with energy-dispersive X-ray fluorescence (EDXRF). UV-Vis-NIR spectrometry did not show Cu absorption bands but did show a strong Fe absorption. This stone, therefore, did not meet the requirement to be designated as a Paraíba tourmaline, whose dominant coloring agent of green/blue must be Cu (LMHC Information Sheet #6, 2012).

Figure 2. The circuit board–like features point mainly in three directions on the crown (left) and are aligned in only one direction on the pavilion (right). Photomicrographs by Yuxiao Li; field of view 3.95 mm (left) and 2.91 mm (right).

Figure 3. Some features on the table facet, photographed in reflected light, were parallel to the polish lines. Photomicrograph by Yuxiao Li; field of view 3.80 mm.
Microscopic observation revealed a unique networked pattern, resembling the pattern of a circuit board, covering the overall surface of the stone. The surface features mainly pointed in three directions on the crown but did not show a clear three-directional pattern on the pavilion (figure 2). Viewed under reflected light, some features at the table facet were parallel to the “polish lines” (figure 3). No evidence of coating and no color concentration along the pattern were found. The conoscope image with crossed polarized filters showed that the table facet was perpendicular to the c-axis. Because tourmaline belongs to the trigonal crystal system, the features appeared to be crystallograpically aligned. That could also explain why the patterns were different between the crown and the pavilion.
We also observed tension cracks surrounding fluid inclusions, which indicated the possibility of heat treatment. In addition, this color of tourmaline is commonly heat treated to improve its color.

Figure 4. Features similar to the tourmaline’s superficial fractures have been seen on the surface of rough crystals such as this Burmese spinel with fractures that likely result from strain in the crystal lattice. Photomicrograph by Nathan Renfro; field of view 2.35 mm.
Because the unique patterns were related to the crystal structure, they may have been caused by thermal shock related to heat treatment and/or acid etching. Similar crystallographically aligned surface features have been found on rough crystals of Tanzanian tourmaline and Burmese spinel (figure 4; N. Renfro, pers. comm., 2021). What caused this pattern and how it came to be revealed on a faceted stone remains a mystery. More samples and further experiments are needed to unravel the cause of these unique and interesting patterns. @chapter:3 @chapter:0 @chapter:3


# Publication Year: 2014
# Title: Assembled “Pearl” Filled with Wire
# Abstract: Figure 1. In this 10.97 ct baroque pearl, a suspect ring circling the surface is clearly visible. Photo by Nuttapol Kitdee.

The excitement of being the first person to observe a pearl’s interior is always foremost in one’s mind when performing microradiography tests on a newly submitted specimen. Baroque pearls in particular have a higher probability of revealing something unusual (see Fall 2013 G&G Lab Notes, pp. 172–173), since they often contain internal voids that are ideal for filling if exposed by damage or excessive drilling.

A light yellow and cream baroque pearl (figure 1), weighing 10.97 ct and measuring 12.74 × 11.60 × 11.14 mm, was recently submitted with seven others to the Bangkok laboratory for a GIA Quality Assurance Report, which provides rapid identification for sorting goods. Prior to microradiography, the pearl immediately appeared suspect because it was circled by an eye-visible band that indicated some “work” had likely been carried out. This was confirmed by examination with a loupe and microscope, which revealed a lustrous, transparent bonding agent. Small black impurities of an unknown nature were present in the bonding agent (figure 2). The type of work performed on the pearl was instantly confirmed by microradiography (figure 3). Looking at the microradiograph, it was obvious that two coiled wire fillings had been placed in the void between two hollow pearl pieces.

Figure 2. The area between the two parts assembled to form the “pearl” revealed creamy areas of deterioration where the bonding agent met the pearl components (left) and very small black impurities of an unknown nature trapped within the agent (left and right). Photomicrographs by Nick Sturman; magnified 70×.

Figure 3. The internal structure revealed two very distinct pieces of coiled wire (metal is radio-opaque) within voids whose outlines did not match. The mismatched outlines helped prove that two separate specimens were combined to form the new “pearl.” Image by Nanthaporn Somsa-ard.
This is not the first time that metal wire has been encountered in pearls (see K. Scarratt, “Notes from the Laboratory,” Journal of Gemmology, Vol. 20, 1986, p. 95), but it appears to be the first time two different hollowed halves have been assembled with a piece of wire in each. While there is little doubt that this specimen was fabricated to increase its weight and create a “single” pearl, the alterations were so severe that they removed critical internal structure, making the components difficult to identify. The two specimens may have been natural pearls with internal voids, bead-cultured pearls with voids around the bead (as is common), non-bead cultured pearls, or any combination of these. We therefore concluded that the “pearl” should be described as “undetermined” but filled. @chapter:54 @chapter:4 @chapter:54