# Publication Year: -
# Title: Books: The Cheapside Hoard: London's Lost Jewels
# Abstract: By Hazel Forsyth, 272 pp., paperback, illus., publ. by Philip Wilson Publishers, London, 2013. £19.95.

                      Written to accompany the Museum of London's exhibition of the Cheapside Hoard jewels (October 11, 2013 to April 27, 2014), this book gives the reader a unique glimpse into the world of the Elizabethan jewelry trade. Author Hazel Forsyth, the museum's senior curator of medieval and post-medieval collections, says this book is not a catalog but instead provides the reader with some context of the gem and jewelry trade in late 16th- and early 17th-century London. It also explores and illustrates some of the most beautiful jewels of this era, jewels that were found in what is known as the Cheapside Hoard.

The book begins with the 1912 discovery of the hoard during the renovation of a building in the Cheapside area of London. The story itself is like a detective novel, involving shady characters and intrigue. Forsyth has done exhaustive research to bring it to light. The book is illustrated with period documents, drawings, and paintings. The thorough research into both the 1912 discovery and London’s 16th- and 17th-century jewelry trade will delight historians. The beautiful photos of the pieces highlight both the wonderful gems in the hoard and the unique settings created by Elizabethan and Jacobean jewelers. This book is a great resource not only for jewelry historians but also for anyone who has an interest in gems from this period.

The Cheapside Hoard, a treasury of nearly 500 pieces, is the most important collection of jewelry from this era. Forsyth takes the reader on a journey to the days when these jewels were created, exploring the gem trade in London and around the world. Exotic locations from which the gems originated, such as Persia, India, and Colombia, are interwoven in stories of the secretive and sometime dangerous gem trade. Also discussed are the guilds and the leading characters in the industry at the time. The reader is introduced to politics and disputes that took place within the trade through the court and guild documents cited by the author. The craftsmen’s workshops and tools are also described in detail.

Not only are the jewels beautifully illustrated, but the period paintings throughout the book show how they were worn. It is said a picture is worth a thousand words. To learn that a bodkin is a hair ornament is informative, but to see it worn in a 1617 portrait of Anne of Denmark illustrates the point even better. Earrings, rings, necklaces, cameos, and more are seen in period portraits throughout the book. The photos of the gems and jewels show the exquisite craftsmanship of the pieces in this collection. The enamel work, gold work, and imaginative settings of these pieces capture the reader's imagination.  They are of the highest quality from this period.

The most impressive piece in the Cheapside Hoard is the watch encased in a large hexagonal-cut Colombian emerald. The dial, with gold roman numerals, is made of green enamel to match the emerald’s color. The lid of the watch case is also solid emerald and is translucent enough to see the face and tell the time even when it is closed. It is truly a masterpiece of watchmaking and stone-cutting design.

The Cheapside Hoard: London's Lost Jewels is recommended to anyone who enjoys historical jewelry, the history of European trade, or beautiful gems. It is a chance to see precious artifacts with mysterious and intriguing stories, artifacts that give a glimpse into a bygone era. @chapter:25 @chapter:2 @chapter:25


# Publication Year: 2024
# Title: New regulations for importing diamonds and diamond jewelry into the United States
# Abstract: Towards the end of February 2024, the U.S. Customs and Border Protection (CBP) issued guidelines for the importation of diamonds and diamond jewelry, effective from Friday, March 1, 2024. Companies must have certified documents on company letterhead in PDF format for diamond imports into the United States.

Each shipment requires one set of documents with the following statements:

1. For non-industrial diamonds weighing 1 carat or more, the document must certify: "I certify that the non-industrial diamonds in this shipment were not mined, extracted, produced, or manufactured wholly or in part in Russian Federation, notwithstanding whether such diamonds have been substantially transformed into other products outside of the Russian Federation."

2. For diamond jewelry and unsorted diamonds (unsorted diamonds refer to diamonds that have not been polished), the document must certify: "I certify that the diamond jewelry and unsorted diamonds in this shipment are not of Russian Federation origin or were not exported from the Russian Federation."

These certified documents must be uploaded to the Automated Commercial Environment (ACE) Document Image System, an electronic platform of CBP for diamond trade.

CBP's new requirements align with the guidelines set by the G7 countries, of which the United States is a member. These guidelines were established in a meeting in December 2023 with the goal of banning the import of Russian diamonds to member countries. CBP has set a "sunrise period" from March 1, 2024, to August 31, 2024, to allow stakeholders time to comply with these regulations and the new rules that will start on September 1, 2024. Additionally, the regulations will be expanded to cover finished jewelry, lab-grown diamonds, and watches, with a reduction in the weight threshold for diamonds from 1 carat to 0.5 carats.

The new provision has altered the previous regulations of the CBP, which defined that any goods substantially transformed in any country shall be considered as originating from that country, making that country the country of origin. This regulation has become a loophole allowing the import of diamonds from Russia into the United States to continue, despite President Joe Biden issuing an executive order in March 2022 prohibiting the import of diamonds from Russia.

This time, the regulations regarding the import of diamonds from Russia will also be extended to include the import of fish and seafood from Russia under the same conditions. CBP will announce this regulation later.

Additional information, comments, and recommendations from Scott Leeson.

The data on the import of diamonds into the United States from 2021 to 2022, ranked by import value, the top 15 combined accounted for 98% of the total diamond imports of the United States. These top importers include India, Israel, Belgium, South Africa, Botswana, Switzerland, Hong Kong, France, the United Arab Emirates, Namibia, Angola, Canada, Thailand, Mauritius, and the United Kingdom. Thailand is one of the countries with the highest import value to the United States, second only to Hong Kong, France, and Angola, with a growth rate of 161.1% in imports to the United States, totaling $111.7 million.

The additional regulations regarding the import of diamonds and diamond jewelry originating from Russia are as follows, in addition to the existing laws governing diamond trade in the United States:

1. **Kimberley Act**: This act imposes sanctions on conflict diamonds or blood diamonds imported from certain countries such as Sierra Leone, Angola, and Liberia. Importers must comply with the Clean Diamond Act, which includes the following key provisions:

   - Official notification of importation.
   - Possession of a Kimberley Process certificate, with a requirement to submit a copy of this certificate to CBP and the U.S. Census Bureau during importation, and to retain the original documents for 5 years.

2. **Patriot Act**: Primarily aimed at preventing money laundering and economic terrorism, the Patriot Act imposes additional regulations on traders of jewelry and gemstones importing goods into the United States:

   - Formal entry notification is required for the import of diamonds, jewelry, pearls, and gemstones valued at $2,500 or more (Formal entry).
   - An import license is not necessary for importation for commercial purposes, but a customs bond (CBP Form 301) is required for importation.
   - Diamonds, pearls, and other gemstones in their raw or unprocessed state from countries with trading relationships with the United States can be imported duty-free, provided the correct 11-digit U.S. Customs tariff code is specified. However, if they are processed into jewelry, they are subject to import duties.

Scott Leeson recommends that those interested in exporting jewelry and gemstone products to the United States should study the import regulations and monitor changes in U.S. import regulations to prevent potential issues. This advice is based on information gathered from various sources and presented to the general public. Some parts may include personal opinions. The Office of the U.S. Trade Representative in Los Angeles compiled and disseminated this information for interested parties. The use of this information, in any case, depends on individual judgment. The Office of the U.S. Trade Representative in Los Angeles is not responsible for any damages that may result from the use of this information. @chapter:37 @chapter:3 @chapter:37


# Publication Year: 2023
# Title: Rock Crystal with Cross Inclusion Exhibiting Brownian Motion
# Abstract: Figure 1. A rock crystal pendant measuring 48.5 × 31.2 × 8.8 mm with a white cross inclusion. Photo by Tsung-Ying Yang.

Figure 2. The white cross inclusion in the rock crystal contained this two-phase inclusion, in which the bubble had a diameter of approximately 2 μm and exhibited Brownian motion. Photo by Shu-Hong Lin; field of view 65 μm.
Recently, the authors encountered a transparent faint yellow pendant with a striking white cross inclusion (figure 1). Raman and Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy identified the pendant as rock crystal. Microscopic observation revealed that the white cross was composed of numerous two-phase inclusions measuring less than 20 μm. One of the two-phase inclusions contained a gas bubble with a diameter of approximately 2 μm (figure 2) that was found to exhibit Brownian motion due to the influence of water molecules (see video below). Brownian motion refers to the unstable random movement of microscopic particles in a fluid, caused by continuous bombardment from molecules of the surrounding medium. This motion becomes more pronounced as the particle size decreases, fluid viscosity lowers, and temperature increases. Brightfield illumination, polarized light, and optical zoom techniques were used to obtain the photomicrographs.

	Two-Phase Inclusion Exhibits Brownian Motion @chapter:26 @chapter:0 @chapter:26


# Publication Year: 1983
# Title: Investigation of a Cat's-Eye Scapolite from Sri Lanka
# Abstract: A cut gemstone with intense chatoyancy that originated from Sri Lanka was determined to be a member of the scapolite solid-solution series. Indices of refraction and unit-cell dimensions were found as ω = 1.583, ε = 1.553 and a = 12.169, c = 7.569 Aº respectively; a meionite content of 69% was established by microprobe analysis. The chatoyancy is caused by needle-like inclusions with an orientation parallel to the c-axis of the scapolite host crystal. Microprobe analysis of these needles showed them to be pyrrhotite. @chapter:12 @chapter:0 @chapter:12


# Publication Year: 2014
# Title: Shattuckite from the DRC
# Abstract: Figure 1. These intense blue shattuckite specimens are from a recent find in the Democratic Republic of Congo. Photo by Brett Kosnar; courtesy of Brett Kosnar, Kosnar Gem Co.

              At the Tucson Gem and Mineral Show, Brett Kosnar of Mineral Classics (Black Hawk, Colorado) exhibited rare specimens of shattuckite from the Democratic Republic of Congo. A new find of this intense medium to dark blue copper silicate (figure 1) occurred in the Kambove District in October 2013. The mineral has a Mohs hardness of 3.5 and is used for cabochons and carvings. Shattuckite has been reported from various African and European sources, as well as copper mines in the American West. The type locality is the Shattuck-Denn mine in Bisbee, Arizona (R. Bowell and R. Cook, “Connoisseur’s Choice: Shattuckite: Kunene District, Kaokoveld, Namibia,” Rocks & Minerals, Vol. 84, November/December 2009, pp. 544–550).

Kosnar’s Congolese shattuckite is being stabilized prior to jewelry manufacturing. He plans to debut cabochons of this very limited material at Tucson in 2015. @chapter:6 @chapter:0 @chapter:6


# Publication Year: 1983
# Title: Spring 1983 Gem News International
# Abstract: Diamonds
            Australia: Argyle Diamond Sales Ltd Will Market Argyle Stones
            Belgium: Imports into Antwerp Increase
            Botswana: New Sorting Headquarters Opened
            China: Discovery of 96.94-ct. Stone
            Guinea: Production Scheduled to Start
            Israel: Net Imports Rise
            Japan: Customs Duty on Polished Diamonds Abolished
            Portugal: Report on Illicit Trading
            Singapore: Polishing Plant Completes First Year
            South Africa: Large Diamond Recovered
            U.S.: Crater of Diamonds State Park
            Venezuela: Annual Output Dropping
Colored Stones
            Cat’s-eye Chrysoberyl Discovered in Zimbabwe
            New Equipment Improved Cutting Efficiency of Emeralds
            Japan’s Export of Pearls Decreased
            Amethyst Deposit Discovered in Brazil
            Discovery of another Rare Taaffeite
            Irradiated Topaz from Brazil
            Southern California Mine Produces Many Colors of Tourmaline
            Synthetic Ruby Will Soon be Marketed
Tucson, 1983

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:34 @chapter:3 @chapter:34


# Publication Year: 1988
# Title: Gemstone Irradiation and Radioactivity
# Abstract: With the increasing use of radiation to color enhance gemstones, the issue of radioactivity has become a source of concern for gemologists worldwide. This article examines the basic characteristics of radiation and radioactivity, the sources of radiation in the earth and in the laboratory, the radiation treatment of gemstones in particular, and the detection and measurement of radiation. Also included is a discussion of potential health hazards and current government regulations regarding gemstone radioactivity. @chapter:52 @chapter:1 @chapter:52


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Jason Dow, 2013 JCK Rising Star
# Abstract: View Gallery

Background

	Originally from Denver, Colorado, I had amazing teachers in high school who taught metalsmithing and jewelry classes. That’s really what got me started, but I didn’t really think about jewelry too much again until I needed to be passionate about a lifelong career.

	I graduated from the University of Hawaii in 1996 and attended the University of Colorado School of Dentistry from 1998-2001. Three years into the program I decided I wasn’t going to be happy as a dentist so I moved to San Diego and went to GIA in Carlsbad. I knew I wanted to design and work at the bench and earned my Graduate Jeweler diploma in December of 2002.

	I took full advantage of everything GIA had to offer. I spent every day either in class or in the library reading books and taking notes, watching videos, attending seminars and lectures, etc. I read and absorbed everything I could – a daunting task considering how large and extensive the library and resources are at the Carlsbad Campus. I probably only made quite a small dent.

	I worked at a few different local San Diego jewelry stores trying to get experience as a bench jeweler then landed a job back in Hawaii with Maui Divers Jewelry, a large retail chain complete with its own factory. In three years I worked my way up to senior designer goldsmith and learned a tremendous amount about designing for production. I also got to learn and practice more advanced techniques, including CAD/CAM.

	I launched my own design line in 2008 and began selling through local jewelry stores as Jason Dow, Inc.

The Design Process

	It doesn’t take me long to come up with a concept, but the details always slow me down. I’m a little bit meticulous about how I like things to look, so I’ll obsess about something for quite a while. I also love to shelve something I’m working on and come back to it later – I always seem to be inspired to make it better.

	My whole challenge in designing is really very simple. As a person of dual ancestry (half Chinese and half Irish/English) I have roots in two different worlds and cultures that can often clash. My goal is to create designs that integrate ancient Asian motifs with more modern and Western concepts, which are reflected in my collections.

Lotus Collection: For thousands of years the flower of the lotus plant has been known for its hypnotic, celestial beauty and unsurpassed as a floral religious icon. A symbol in many Eastern cultures, the lotus corresponds to purity of body, speech and mind, floating above the muddy waters of desire and attachment. Eight distinct petals possess great luck, and for me, the eight Hawaiian Islands.

Mandala Collection: The word “Mandala” is from the classic Indian language of Sanskrit. Loosely translated it means “circle”, but it represents far more than a simple shape. Long embraced by Eastern teachings, it is a symbol of wholeness and a model of the structure and balance of the universe. The Mandala Collection was inspired by the power of meditation and serves as reminder that the importance of life lies in the process of creation.

Tattoo Collection: Inspired by the Henna tattoos covering beautifully adorned Indian brides, the Tattoo collection both makes a statement and is extremely comfortable to wear. Like a second skin, the designs elegantly cover your fingers and wrists without hindering your active lifestyle.

Favorite Gemstones and Metals

	I love, love, love high-karat gold and moonstones. I’m also infatuated with diamonds, of course.  Really though, there are so many gemstones out there I haven’t had a chance to work with yet … I’m excited to try to eventually work with them all.

Motivation

	I love the challenge of design. I’ve never found anything more challenging and rewarding than this. I love being excited to go to work every day – as long as I get exercise in between – I rarely ever get tired of what I am doing. There are always new ideas to explore, so hopefully I’ll never ever suffer from boredom.

	Jason Dow. Photo provided by Jason Dow. @chapter:45 @chapter:2 @chapter:45


# Publication Year: 1990
# Title: Gem-Quality Cuprian-Elbaite Tourmalines from São José Da Batalha, Paraíba, Brazil
# Abstract: Unusually vivid tourmalines from the state of Paraiba, in north eastern Brazil, have attracted great interest since they first appeared on the international gem market in 1989. This article describes what is known of the locality at this time, but focuses on the most striking characteristic of the se gem tourmalines: the unusual colors in which they occur. Quantitative chemical analyses revealed that these elbaite tourmalines contain surprisingly high concentrations of copper, up to 1.92. wt. % Cu (or 2.38 wt. % CuO). Their colors are due to Cu2 + or a combination of Cu2 +, Mn3 +, and other causes. Some colors can be produced by heat treatment, but most also occur naturally. @chapter:14 @chapter:0 @chapter:14


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Non-Bead-Cultured Pearls from Pinctada margaritifera
# Abstract: Gray to black cultured pearls from the Pinctada margaritifera mollusk, commonly referred to as "Tahitian pearls," are in great demand globally. These often have striking overtones or secondary hues such as green, pink, purple, or a combination of colors. The majority of commercially produced Tahitian pearls are from French Polynesia. They are typically bead cultured, but some non-bead-cultured (NBC) pearls also occur as a by-product and are very marketable in their own right.

A new report from GIA's Bangkok laboratory, "Non-Bead-Cultured Pearls from Pinctada margaritifera," examines a set of 120 NBC samples stated to be of Tahitian origin. Internal structures were examined using real-time microradiography (RTX) and X-ray computed microtomography (µ-CT). The authors also recorded the samples' UV-Visible, Raman, and photoluminescence (PL) spectra.

The results appear to indicate that these NBC pearls were cultured in Pinctada margaritifera mollusks, or at least were formed from mantle that incorporated the genes of this mollusk. The authors note that the various spectra and internal structures recorded in the study will provide valuable reference data on NBC pearls. @chapter:11 @chapter:4 @chapter:11


# Publication Year: 2023
# Title: Special Hair-Like Inclusions in Quartz
# Abstract: Figure 1. “Rabbit hair” quartz samples with different colors. Photos by Shuqian Rui.
“Rabbit hair” quartz is a commercial variety of quartz with special inclusions. These inclusions resemble rabbit fur and are shorter and thinner than the typical rutile, tourmaline, or other acicular inclusions found in sagenitic quartz. To explore their internal features, nine rabbit hair quartz samples were classified according to the color of their inclusions (figure 1): red (R1–R4), yellow (Y1 and Y2), and white (W1–W3). The white rabbit hair quartz is rarer than the other colors.

Figure 2. A: Fibrous inclusions in red rabbit hair quartz (sample R1). B: Needle-like inclusions in yellow rabbit hair quartz (sample Y2). C: The tubular inclusions in white rabbit hair quartz (sample W1). Photomicrographs by Shuqian Rui; fields of view 0.71 mm (A), 0.91 mm (B), and 1.26 mm (C).
Microscopic observation shows slight variation between the different colors of these hair-like inclusions. In the red rabbit hair quartz, massive curved red fibers are distributed evenly. They are mostly brownish red and less than 1 mm in length (figure 2A). The bright yellow needle-like inclusions are distributed regularly but with some localized disorder. Some of the disordered parts form divergent bundles (figure 2B). The white inclusions seem to be hollow tubes, measuring approximately 1–2 mm (figure 2C).
Raman analysis identified the inclusions in samples W1, R1, and Y2. The hollow tubes in sample W1 with peaks at 208, 266, 355, 405, 465, 810, and 1083 cm–1 are the characteristic peaks of quartz. The fibrous red inclusions in sample R1 with peaks at 246, 295, 412, 612, and 1319 cm–1 are hematite. The yellow inclusions in sample Y2 with peaks at 305, 394, and 694 cm–1 are goethite.

Figure 3. The secondary electron images of the oblique section of the hollow tubes, outlined in yellow (sample W1). Images by Jinyu Zheng.
The freshly exposed surface of sample W1 was observed by scanning electron microscope (SEM). Figure 3 shows the secondary electron images; the pits are oblique sections of exposed hollow tubular inclusions (left), and the morphology of parallel sections of hollow tubes can be observed as grooves (right). In the pits, SEM with energy-dispersive spectrometry indicated that the main composition was SiO2, and no other impurity minerals filled into the hollow.
Fibrous hematite inclusions present in this study are rare in quartz, and their formation is likely related to the growth conditions (I. Sunagawa, Crystals: Growth, Morphology and Perfection, Cambridge University Press, Cambridge, 2005, p. 61). White hollow tubular inclusions might be the corroded product of hydrothermal fluids or weathering. In these processes, mineral inclusions were etched away, leaving the hollow tube with its original shape (Winter 2007 GNI, p. 370–373). However, the origin of yellow rabbit hair quartz still needs further research. @chapter:15 @chapter:0 @chapter:15


# Publication Year: 2019
# Title: Purple Fluorite Inclusion in Emerald from Russia
# Abstract: A Russian emerald hosts a crystal inclusion—identified by laser Raman microspectrometry analysis as fluorite—that exhibits a distinct purple color. Photomicrograph by Jonathan Muyal; field of view 1.44 mm.

Fluorite inclusions in emeralds from various localities have been reported extensively in the literature. They have been described as “whitish-colorless, octahedral-cube and/or corroded rounded shapes” (E.J. Gübelin and J.I. Koivula, Photoatlas of Inclusions in Gemstones, Vol. 3, Opinio Publishers, Basel, Switzerland, 2008). However, purple fluorite in an emerald host is rare.
Author CM previously documented a purple banded fluorite inclusion in an emerald submitted to GIA for identification (Fall 2016 Lab Notes, pp. 302–303). This was noted as “an interesting and unexpected addition to an otherwise typical (emerald) inclusion scene.” Surprisingly, the current authors recently found another purple fluorite inclusion in an emerald (see above) from GIA’s research reference collection. Purchased from Alexey Burlakov (Tsarina Jewels, JTC, Bangkok), it was reportedly from the Malysheva mine, located a few kilometers northeast of Yekaterinburg, Russia.
Closer examination of the inclusion revealed a large, distinct purple zone, as well as a purple band and a subhedral crystal form. The inclusion proved to be singly refractive when viewed between crossed polarizers. Laser Raman microspectrometry confirmed that the inclusion was fluorite. Trace-element chemistry of the host emerald collected via laser ablation–inductively coupled plasma–mass spectrometry (LA-ICP-MS) matched well with GIA’s Russian emerald chemistry reference data.
Raman analysis and microscopic observation conclusively identified the inclusion as fluorite. This strongly suggests that the unusual purple inclusion observed by author CM in 2016 was indeed fluorite; in that case, the inclusion was too deep in the stone to analyze with Raman. It is possible that purple fluorite is an unusual internal feature found only in Russian emerald, since that is the only known source from which we have observed this inclusion. @chapter:26 @chapter:0 @chapter:26


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Gemfields Seeing (More) Red in 2015: Ruby Production Set to Double
# Abstract: The main ruby mining area of Maninge is very rich, producing more than 160 carats per ton of ore. It was developed in 2012 by Gemfields and a local partner, Mwiriti Ltd. Photo by Russell Shor/GIA

	Gemfields, the publicly listed gemstone mining company, is undertaking a major expansion of the Montepuez ruby mine that it commissioned two years ago in Mozambique.

	Gemfields reports that since coming online in mid-2012, the mine has produced eight million carats of corundum: 60% light or pink colored corundum; 20 to 25% lower quality ruby; 10-12% medium quality ruby; and approximately 8% fine material. It has been mining much faster than its gravel washing and sorting operations could handle, so it plans to double its washing plant throughput from 120 to 250 metric tons per year.

	The company has become a major supplier of corundum to a market starved for fine qualities of the red gemstone since the 2008 passage of the JADE Act, a U.S. ban on the importation of ruby and jadeite jade from Myanmar (Burma), which remains in force.

	A group of top grade Montepuez rubies at the company sorting house are very homogenous in color and size, weighing between 2 and 2.5 carats. Photo by Russell Shor/GIA

	Gemfields also plans to increase mining operations at a deposit called Mugloto, which is a secondary source several kilometers from the main mining site. Mugloto, while not nearly as rich as the main area, called Maninge Nice, is the source of much of the higher quality material.

	The production of medium and better quality ruby at Mugloto is remarkably homogenous, with many crystals having very similar color, shape and size. The grade is about two to three carats per metric ton of ore against the Maninge deposit, which produces 162 carats of all grades of corundum per metric ton, according to the company.

	Gemfields held the first auction of its production in June and is planning a second sale later this year.

	Montepuez chief geologist Ashim Roy points out the ruby-bearing sedimentary rock belt at the Mugloto deposit in northern Mozambique. Photo by Russell Shor/GIA

DIAMONDS: The diamond industry is closely watching the Hong Kong Watch and Jewellery Show for signs that demand will pick up during the final quarter of the year.

	De Beers held the line on rough prices at the Aug 18-22 sight, which totaled $735 million. Liquidity issues remained at the forefront, however, as polished prices remained soft in the wake of lackluster demand worldwide. In addition, polished inventories have been climbing, forcing manufacturers to pay carrying charges on goods for which there is no ready market.

	In general, prices remained stable in the August sight, though there were apparently some minor declines for commercial quality and high clarity stones polishing out to a carat or larger. Still, some sightholders rejected allotments they considered too expensive for the market, despite the fact that De Beers’ executives will be taking such rejections into account when selecting clients for the new sight term that begins in January. Rough dealers found little profit in sight boxes, selling most goods at cost.

	Alrosa, which had been very restrained in its sales, announced it had raised prices 7% during the course of the year and would be selling larger quantities of rough in September. De Beers does not schedule a sight in September. The company also announced it would be reviewing its client list starting next year, using similar criteria as De Beers, including clients’ purchase record during the 2008-9 crisis and 2012 correction. The company will continue to sell the vast majority of its production at set prices through its sight system, instead of moving toward tender/auction sales.

	Russia’s newest producer LUKoil, the majority owner of the Grib deposit in the western part of the country (near the border with Finland) has hired several executives from BHP’s former diamond operations and will market its production exclusively by auction sales.

	The outlook for diamond manufacturing remains unclear as the summer ends. Retail sales have remained relatively static, albeit at a decent level. But price caution at the wholesale and retail levels keeps profits extremely low, and banks have continued their tight credit policies. In addition, there is evidence that polished inventories are much higher than the market can absorb for most sizes and qualities.

CONSUMER CONFIDENCE: One bright spot is that the Conference Board survey of consumer confidence in the U.S. has reached its highest point since October 2007, well before the economic crisis hit in earnest. @chapter:23 @chapter:0 @chapter:23


# Publication Year: 2020
# Title: A New Phantom Quartz Imitation: Laser-Engraved Rock Crystal
# Abstract: Figure 1. The “phantom quartz” pendant was later confirmed to be natural quartz with three-dimensional laser engraving. Photo by Shu-Hong Lin.

Phantom quartz generally refers to a rock crystal with inclusions of prismatic or pyramidal growth zonation, which represents early crystal faces covered by minerals, such as clinochlore, clay minerals, limonite, or fuchsite. Recently, a new type of phantom quartz imitation has appeared in the market, most of which is sold in the form of beads, pendants, or crystal spheres. A package of these imitation phantom quartz products was sent to the Taiwan Union Lab of Gem Research (TULAB) for identification services (figure 1).
These samples submitted as phantom quartz had a powdery white growth zonation in the form of a hexagonal pyramid. The host crystal was confirmed to be natural quartz by infrared absorption spectroscopy. The samples had an abnormal appearance for phantom quartz, of which the internal growth zonation was composed of regular and oriented small cracks (figure 2). Similar inclusions are often found in crafts made of glass or synthetic quartz engraved with a laser. According to the client, one of these samples had fractures along the ridgeline of the apparent pseudo-hexagonal pyramid (figure 3), which were possibly self-propagated due to the internal stress from the oriented small cracks.

Figure 2. The internal growth zonation was composed of a regular network of small crack clusters around a central black point, presumably due to laser impact. Photomicrograph by Yu-Ho Li; field of view 2.14 mm.

Figure 3. Left to right: A schematic diagram, a bottom view, and a top view of an imitation phantom crystal. The six fractures (red dashed lines) along the ridgeline of the pseudo-hexagonal pyramid in this imitation phantom quartz sphere were reportedly formed without any external force or heat treatment. The diameter of this sphere is 17.68 mm. Photos by Shu-Hong Lin.
In a true phantom, the axial direction of the host crystal is identical to that of the phantom crystal inside; however, the interference images through a polariscope revealed that the c-axis direction of these phantom quartz products was mostly inconsistent with what appeared to be their internal growth zonation (figure 4). In consideration of the morphological characteristics of inclusions as well as the interference images, these phantoms are imitations made of natural “rock crystal” with artificial growth zonation produced by laser engraving, irrespective of the crystallographic orientation of the host crystal.

Figure 4. Crossed polarizers revealed that the bull’s eye, indicating the optic axis, was nearly perpendicular to the axis of the engraved “phantom.” Photo by Shu-Hong Lin.
Although internal laser engraving can imitate the appearance of a phantom quartz inclusion, such products can be easily identified through a microscope and a polariscope. More controversially, the internal stress generated by the regular and oriented cracks seems to reduce the toughness of the host crystal; therefore, consumers should be aware of the risk of such imitations. @chapter:26 @chapter:0 @chapter:26


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Gem Cutters Reveal the Beauty of Chalcedony
# Abstract: This iris agate from Mexico displays a dramatic swirl of spectral colors when light is transmitted through the stone from behind. Courtesy and photo by Robert Weldon/GIA

	The magnitude of the quartz family is second only to feldspar in the composition of Earth’s crust. Agate and jasper are varieties of chalcedony that are made up of tiny crystals of quartz not visible to the unaided eye. These micro- and cryptocrystalline forms of quartz have fascinated both kings and the common man since antiquity.

	Agate was first mentioned in literature in a treatise “On Stones,” by Theophrastus (372-287 BCE). He referred to it as a beautiful stone that was highly valued. Later, according to Pliny the Elder in his “Natural History” (77 CE), agate was much more plentiful and varied and thus its value decreased.

	Both Pliny and Theophrastus wrote that agate derived its name from the river Achates in Sicily, where it was likely found for the first time.

	Agates and jaspers are formed in infinite varieties of multicolored patterns − each a unique creation of nature’s art. They are found in rich fall colors of orange, brown and golden hues and form in layers or bands of colors. They also form as “thunder eggs,” which are nodule-like or geode-like formations. Amorphous and swirling patterns − that can resemble galaxies or orbiting planets – are visible in some agates.

	This award-winning photomicrograph is a slab of Brazilian agate that was sliced perpendicular to it formational layering and was polished. The minerals are goethite and hematite, but what the inclusion scene depicts is open to the imagination. Photomicrograph by John I. Koivula/GIA

	Fire agate breaks up reflected white light to reveal a spectrum of hues. Similarly, iris agate breaks up transmitted light, to exhibit a rainbow of color. Agates used as gemstones may be naturally colored, but they are also often dyed. This is true of intense pink, blue, or green agates. Agate is a porous material and lends itself well to color enhancement treatments.

	As with many gemstones, their trade names describe their appearance: poppy jasper, dendritic, lace, iris, fire and landscape agates, to name a few.

	Because of its beauty, relative abundance and suitability for carving, chalcedony has been widely used in jewelry and cameos (carved above the surface) and intaglios (carved below the surface) since ancient times in Europe and the Middle East.

	Before the time of Alexander the Great, chalcedony seals that could be pressed into wax to certify a signature or authentic a document, were usually depicted as animals or elements of nature. Alexander the Great commissioned a portrait cameo of himself in the image of a god, possibly the world’s first “selfie.” Later, family crests were carved intaglios that were also used as seals. Fine gem material and intricate carving was a mark of social status.

View Gallery

	Idar-Oberstein, Germany is known for the finest agate carvings in the world. Agate has been mined there along the Nahe River Valley since the 1400s and the flow of the river was used to power the grinding wheels for stone cutting. The art of gem carving thrived in the region due to the abundance of agates, jaspers and other chalcedony.

	When agate deposits in Germany were depleted in the 1800s, gem cutters in Idar-Oberstein started to import material from Brazil. In addition to Brazil, deposits were discovered in Argentina and Uruguay in South America, and in localities in Europe, Australia and North America. This allowed the art of carving and gem cutting to continue to prosper.

	The Jerusalem Egg Collection, a collection of 850 carved gem and minerals, many of them agate, jasper and other microcrystalline quartz, represents a lifetime of work by Dieter Jerusalem, a modern master cutter from Idar-Oberstein. Other important modern gem carvers of the region include Bernd Munsteiner, his son Tom Munsteiner, Erwin Pauly, his son Hans Ullrich Pauly, Dieter Lorenz, Gerd Dreher and Patrick Dreher.

	The art of cutting and carving agates has since been emulated in other countries around the world and the first agate symposium was held in 2005 in Denver, Colorado. Since then, interest in the colorful microcrystalline quartz family has continued to grow.

	Suggested Reading List:

		Lynch, Dan R. and Bob Lynch (2011) Agates of Lake Superior. Adventure Publications, Cambridge, Minnesota

		Mayer, Dietrich (2014) Exquisite Agates. Bode, Lauenstein, Germany

		Zenz, Johann (2005) Agates. Bode, Haltern, Germany

		Zenz, Johann (2009) Agates II. Bode, Haltern, Germany

		Zenz, Johann (2011) Agates III. Bode, Lauenstein, Germany @chapter:6 @chapter:0 @chapter:6


# Publication Year: 1987
# Title: Summer 1987 G&G Book Reviews
# Abstract: “The Diamond Yearbook 1986-1987”
By Jean-Francois Moyersoen, 120 pp., illus., publ. by UBIGE S.P.R.L., Brussels, 1987. US$99.00

“Garnet”
By John D. Rouse, Edited by Peter G. Read, 134 pp., illus., publ. by Butterworth and Co., 1986. US$29.95

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:21 @chapter:1 @chapter:21


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Mughal Jewels Auction: Al-Thani Collection Raises $109 Million
# Abstract: The Maharaja of Patiala gave Cartier its single largest commission ever in the 1920s, when he asked the firm to reset his crown jewels. One piece from the Maharajah’s commission, the Patiala ruby choker with diamonds and natural pearls, sold for $975,000. Photo courtesy of Christie’s

Collectors from around the world descended on Christie's Maharajas & Mughal Magnificence auction of jewels from the Al-Thani Collection on June 19. By the time the New York sale ended, they had spent nearly $110 million for 353 lots, with 10 items selling from $1.7 million to more than $10 million.
The pieces came from the most renowned and comprehensive collection of Mughal jewels, owned by Sheikh Hamad bin Abdullah al-Thani of Qatar. Al-Thani is using the proceeds from the sale to open a museum in Paris to house the estimated 6,000 remaining pieces of his collection of Indian and Islamic art and jewelry.
India, which was the world’s treasure house of gemstones for millennia, comprised more than 500 semi-autonomous states at the beginning of British rule in 1858, with many of the rulers holding massive collections of gems and jewels. The collections grew in extravagance after the British assumed control because much of the wealth and power of the Mughals shifted to local rulers who no longer competed for military might, but to see who could amass the most jewels.

The Shah Jahan carved emerald of 30.60 cts, mined in Colombia, sold for $555,000. Photo courtesy of Christie’s
Emperor Shah Jahan
Several pieces from the most famous Mughal ruler, Shah Jahan, drew some of the most intense bidding. Jahan ruled from 1628 to 1658, which is considered the peak of the Mughal Empire. His fame lies in ordering the building of India’s most enduring architectural landmarks, including the Taj Mahal, the Agra Fort, the Red Fort and the Wazir Khan Mosque.
The Shah Jahan carved emerald of 30.60 cts, mined in Colombia, sold for $555,000, while his carved spinel and enamel seal ring from 1643 or 1644 brought $795,000. Jahan’s white jadite dagger, the next to last lot in the sale, sold for $3.4 million, a record for a piece owned by the ruler.

The Arcot II, a 17.2 ct pear shaped diamond graded by GIA as D IF, fetched $3.4 million. The diamond was found in Golconda in the 18th century and presented to Britain’s Queen Charlotte, wife of George III, in 1777 by the Nawab of Arcot. Photo courtesy of Christie’s
Diamonds from the Famed Golconda Mines
Several Golconda diamonds (generally Type IIa taken from the ancient mines of India’s Golconda region) also sold at the sale. The Arcot II, a 17.2 ct pear shaped graded by GIA as D IF, fetched $3.4 million. The diamond was found in Golconda in the 18th century and was presented to Britain’s Queen Charlotte, wife of George III, in 1777 by the Nawab of Arcot. It was later returned to private hands and recut to modern specifications in 1959. After al-Thani acquired the diamond, it was again recut in 2011.

The Mirror of Paradise, a 52.58 ct cut corner rectangular shape diamond, GIA-graded D IF, brought $6.5 million. Photo courtesy of Christie’s
The Mirror of Paradise, a 52.58 ct cut corner rectangular shape diamond, GIA-graded D IF, brought $6.5 million. The provenance of the diamond is uncertain, except that it was found in the Golconda region and has been recut to modern proportions. Christie’s sold the diamond in 2013 for nearly $11 million.
Nizams of Hyderabad
The jewels from the estate of the Nizam of Hyderabad were put up for sale in the early 1980s, unlocking one of India’s long held treasure chests.

Shah Jahan’s carved spinel, set in his enamel seal ring from 1643 or 1644, brought $795,000. Photo courtesy of Christie’s
Under Mughal rule in the 17th century, the region around Hyderabad became increasingly independent under the Asaf Jahi Dynasty, whose rulers were known as Nizam. The dynasty continued through the British colonial era until the newly independent central government of India abolished the princely states in 1948.
After independence, the Indian government and the Nizam’s family wrangled over control of their jewel collections, which had become the world’s largest. After years of court battles, the government purchased much of the collection, while the family sold the remainder in a series of auctions. Al-Thani later acquired some of the pieces sold at the June 19 Christie’s auction.

From the original Nizam of Hyderabad collection:  A ceremonial sword whose handle is studded with large traditional Mughal cut diamonds, rubies and emeralds. It sold for $1.9 million. Photo Courtesy of Christie’s
The Nizams took seriously the notion that jewels symbolized royal power. Accordingly, one of the major pieces in the sale was a ceremonial sword whose handle was studded with large traditional Mughal cut diamonds, rubies and emeralds that sold for $1.9 million. A necklace from the Nizam estate, featuring 33 round cut Golconda diamonds, ranging from 9.9 cts to 24.38 cts, also brought $1.9 million.
Cartier Jewelry Pieces
Indian rulers began to compete with their European counterparts for jeweled wealth in the 19th century. So the major European houses, Cartier in particular, began to make regular visits to the continent. Indeed, the Maharaja of Patiala gave Cartier its single largest commission ever in the 1920s, when he asked the firm to reset his crown jewels.

Cartier fashioned the costliest piece from the auction, a Belle Époque-era Diamond Devant-de-Corsage brooch that sold for $10.6 million. Photo courtesy of Christie’s
One piece from the Maharajah’s commission, the Patiala ruby choker with diamonds and natural pearls, sold for $975,000 at this sale. A Cartier-made art deco emerald and diamond brooch sold for $1.5 million, which was the final lot of the sale.
Cartier also fashioned the costliest piece in the auction, a Belle Époque-era Diamond Devant-de-Corsage brooch that sold for $10.6 million. This brooch, which contains several large Golconda diamonds, was made for Solly Joel, one of De Beers’ founders in 1912. The largest diamond in the brooch was a 34.08 ct E VVS1 Type Ia pear shape; followed by a 23.55 ct D VVS2 oval (potentially flawless) Type IIa; a 6.61 ct D VS1 Type IIa marquise cut and a 3.54 ct E VS1 Type I a heart shape diamond. All were graded by GIA.

A Belle Époque Jigha (turban ornament) with baguette and pear-shaped diamonds set in white gold and topped with a white feather plume, sold for $1.8 million. Photo courtesy of Christie’s
Other very significant lots included the catalog cover piece, a Belle Époque Jigha (turban ornament) with baguette and pear shaped diamonds, set in white gold and topped with a white feather plume, which sold for $1.8 million.
The Baroda pearl canopy from 1865-70, with thousands of natural pearls set in geometric patterns on a round cloth, was commissioned by Maharaja Khanderao Gaekwad of Baroda and passed by descent to Maharani Sita Devi of Baroda. The hammer came down at over $2 million; the total came to $2.23 million, with the addition of the auction house premium.

The Baroda pearl canopy, from 1865-70, is made from thousands of natural pearls set in geometric patterns on a round cloth. The canopy was commissioned by Maharaja Khanderao Gaekwad of Baroda. Photo courtesy of Christie’s
See the Al-Thani Collection on Display in 2020
Many of the objects and pieces in the sale were part of an exhibition dedicated to the Al-Thani Collection at New York’s Metropolitan Museum of Art in 2014.
The remaining Al-Thani Collection will find a permanent home at the Hotel de la Marine, in Paris, starting next year. The Hotel de la Marine is the former city palace built by Louis XVI and, after 1789, housed government offices until 2015 when it was closed for renovations. The building, restored to its original 18th century décor, will house a museum of French royal history, as well as the Al-Thani Collection.

Shah Jahan’s white jadite dagger, the next to last lot in the sale, sold for $3.4 million, a record for a piece owned by the ruler. Photo courtesy of Christie’s
The Al-Thani Collection Foundation, which managed the holdings, noted that the sale of a small part of the collection will enable it to offer a full program to the public, including exhibitions, conferences and educational activities. Part of the sale proceeds will support ongoing initiatives of The Al-Thani Collection Foundation, which extend from exhibitions, publications and lectures to sponsorships of projects at museums around the world. @chapter:28 @chapter:2 @chapter:28


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Large HPHT-Grown Synthetic Diamonds Examined in GIA’s Hong Kong Laboratory
# Abstract: These two large synthetic diamonds were produced using HPHT growth methods by the Russian firm New Diamond Technology. The 4.30 ct specimen on the left has D color and SI1 clarity. On the right is a 5.11 ct sample with K color and I1 clarity. Photo by Wuyi Wang.

                      Over the last decade, the jewelry industry has seen rapid improvement in the quality of synthetic diamond grown by the CVD (chemical vapor deposition) method. Colorless and near-colorless CVD synthetics with sizes slightly larger than 3.00 cts. have been reported. GIA’s Hong Kong laboratory recently examined two large synthetic diamonds created using the HPHT (high-pressure, high-temperature) method that demonstrated parallel progress in the two growth technologies. These samples, shown above, were produced in Russia by New Diamond Technology.

The first was a 4.30 ct cushion-shaped with D color and a clarity grade of SI1, based on three small clusters of metallic inclusions. The other was a 5.11 ct cut-cornered rectangular modified brilliant. It had K color and a clarity grade of I1, the result of a few metallic inclusions and two small fractures in the girdle area. Neither one showed reaction to long-wave UV radiation. When they were exposed to short-wave UV, a medium to strong green-yellow fluorescence was observed. Both showed strong yellow-green phosphorescence lasting more than 20 seconds. One noteworthy feature was the absence of pinpoint inclusions, which are common in HPHT synthetic diamonds and often distributed throughout the crystal.

Absorption spectra in the infrared region demonstrated these were type II diamonds, with no absorption band detected in the one-phonon region (approximately 1350–1000 cm–1) where nitrogen impurities occur. A very weak 2800 cm–1 band was attributed to trace substitutional boron. A higher boron concentration was recorded in the D-color synthetic diamond (7 ± 1 ppb, compared to 1.2 ± 0.2 ppb). Photoluminescence spectra collected at liquid-nitrogen temperature with varying laser excitations revealed an emission doublet at 736.6/736.9 nm from the silicon-vacancy defect, and an 882.7/884.4 nm doublet from the well-known Ni-related defect. Very weak emissions from nitrogen-vacancy centers at 575.0 and 637.0 nm were detected only in the K-color sample. Besides metallic inclusions, another important identification feature of HPHT synthetics is fluorescence. Typical fluorescence patterns showing multiple-sector growth were observed in both samples.

These two diamonds were disclosed as HPHT synthetic when submitted for examination. Tested using the GIA DiamondCheck device, both were referred for further testing. Gemological observations and spectroscopic features confirmed they were HPHT synthetics.

Examination of these improved HPHT synthetic diamonds, the largest synthetic diamonds GIA has examined so far, demonstrated significant progress in this growth technology. In addition to their use as gem materials, crystals of this size have many potential industrial applications. @chapter:9 @chapter:1 @chapter:9


# Publication Year: 2009
# Title: Demantoid from Val Malenco, Italy: Review and Update
# Abstract: New data are presented for demantoid from Val Malenco, Italy, as obtained by classical gemological methods, electron microprobe and LA-ICP-MS chemical analyses, and UV-Vis-NIR and mid-IR spectroscopy. The results confirmed that these garnets are almost pure andradite (≥98 mol%, RI>1.81, SG = 3.81–3.88). All 18 samples studied contained “horsetail” inclusions, which are characteristic of a serpentinite geologic origin. Fe and Cr control the coloration of demantoid, though color variations in these samples were mainly correlated to Cr content. @chapter:12 @chapter:0 @chapter:12


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Fall 2011 G&G Book Reviews
# Abstract: “Living Jewels: Masterpieces from Nature”
By Ruth Peltason, 224 pp., illus., publ. by The Vendome Press [www.vendomepress.com], New York, 2010. US$50.00

“The Extraordinary World of Diamonds”
By Nick Norman, 302 pp., illus., publ. by Janaca Media [janaca.co.za], Auckland Park, South Africa, 2010. R199.96

“The Workbench Guide to Jewelry Techniques”
By Anastasia Young, 320 pp., illus., publ. by Interweave Books [www.interweave.com], Loveland, CO, 2010. $34.95

“World Hallmarks, Volume I: Europe, 19th to 21st Centuries, 2nd ed.”
By William Whetstone, Danusia Niklewicz, and Lindy Matula, illus., publ. by Hallmark Research Institute [www.hallmarkresearch.com], San Francisco, 2010. $228

“Mineral Treasures of the World”
By The Geological Museum of China and The Collector’s Edge Minerals Inc., 125 pp., illus., publ. by Geological Publishing House [www.gph.com.cn], Beijing, 2010. ¥286

“Collectors Guide to Granite Pegmatites”
By Vandall T. King, 96 pp., illus., publ. by Schiffer Publishing [www.schifferbooks.com], Atglen, PA, 2010, US$19.95

“Collectors Guide to Silicate Crystal Structures”
By Robert J. Lauf, 96 pp., illus., publ. by Schiffer Publishing [www.schifferbooks.com], Atglen, PA, 2010, US$19.95

“Gems and Gemology in Pakistan”
By Tahseenullah Khan and Allah Bakhsh Kausar, 231 pp., illus., publ. by Geological Survey of Pakistan (www.gsp.gov.pk), Quetta, 2010, Rs. 3000

“Diamond Math”
By Kenneth A. Glasser, 451 pp., illus., publ. by Kenneth A. Glasser Co. [www.diamondmath. com], Las Vegas, 2010, US$75.00

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:31 @chapter:2 @chapter:31


# Publication Year: 1993
# Title: A Prospectors’ Guide Map to the Gem Deposits of Sri Lanka
# Abstract: Sri Lanka is world famous for its gem wealth, but the actual extent of the deposits has never been determined. Recently, a geologic survey team gathered field data in order to compile the first gem prospectors' guide map of Sri Lanka. Using the criteria of lithology and topography, stream-drainage density, presence of alluvium, and the nature and abundance of heavy minerals, this team determined that approximately 20% of the land mass of Sri Lanka may be gem bearing. They also characterized the potential of specific regions. @chapter:6 @chapter:0 @chapter:6


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Take a Virtual Tour of “More is More”
# Abstract: View Gallery

Couldn’t make it to the Carlsbad exhibit? Take a virtual tour of “More is More: Tony Duquette-Hutton Wilkinson Jewelry” with the gallery images above. @chapter:25 @chapter:2 @chapter:25


# Publication Year: 2015
# Title: Jadeite With High Albite Content
# Abstract: Figure 1. These 29 bangles were submitted to NGDTC by a wholesaler as jadeite jade. The bangles in the left column are slightly finer and of better color. Photo by Li Jianjun.

With high prices and demand from Chinese consumers for jadeite jade (or fei cui), correctly identifying samples is a major challenge for gemological laboratories. Jadeite’s complex mineral composition and its nature as a rock rather than a mineral further complicate this problem. While jadeite is the main mineral in jadeite jade, other pyroxene minerals such as kosmochlor, omphacite, amphibole-group minerals, plagioclase (especially albite), and even some iron oxides may also be present. Recently, the National Gold & Diamond Testing Center (NGDTC) lab tested 29 bangles submitted as jadeite jade (figure 1). The results again raised the issue of nomenclature.

The samples could be separated into two groups, one group with finer texture and color (shown on the left in figure 1). Standard gemological tests were applied to all of the samples, and the surface features were observed using a standard gemological microscope. The samples showed the characteristic 437 nm line with a handheld spectroscope. Ten randomly chosen spot RI readings were recorded on each bangle, and the results offered interesting insights. Two different readings of 1.52 and 1.66 were observed, indicating the presence of two major components. The SG ranged from 2.99 to 3.34, while the referenced SG for jadeite jade is 3.34 (+0.06–0.09). The low SG indicates a significant amount of light minerals in these samples. Another observation was that the group of lesser luster and color (shown on the right in figure 1) tended to have lower SG than the higher-quality samples. Overall, most of the samples were inert to UV, though six showed weak to moderate unevenly distributed bluish fluorescence. Under 30× magnification and brightfield illumination, two major mineral groups with contrasting color, crystal shape, and luster were revealed (figure 2).

Figure 2. Two groups of minerals were observed on the surface of this sample under brightfield illumination. One group is composed of the pale whitish subhedral to euhedral grains, the other of the creamy minerals in between. Photomicrograph by Li Jianjun; magnified 30×.
Transmission infrared spectra collected from the positions that fluoresced weakly to moderately showed no polymer-related features. To confirm the composition of the two major minerals, we collected micro-infrared reflectance spectra from them (figure 3). The spectrum of the pale whitish mineral indicated jadeite, with the presence of the featured 1050 and 744 cm–1 bands in addition to the four bands between 400 and 600 cm–1. The IR spectrum of the creamy mineral matched that of albite, with the characteristic peak at 1040 cm–1 band assigned to the Si-O stretching vibration in the SiO4 tetrahedral structure. The multiple peaks in the 800–700 cm–1 region can also help to distinguish albite from jadeite.

Figure 3. IR reflectance spectra collected from the two main minerals in the samples
identified one as jadeite and the other one as albite.
The spot RI readings around 1.52 were consistent with albite’s published RI of 1.528–1.542. The SG of albite is 2.60–2.65, considerably lower than that of jadeite. The presence of albite as a major mineral component in this material could account for the much lower SG in most of the samples. Although albite is one of the common minerals in jadeite jade, the amount is usually very minor and cannot be easily detected by standard gemological tests. Because the lab could not destroy the samples, no quantitative data were achieved.

Identifying these materials is not easy, especially when the concentration of certain components cannot be quantitatively determined and there is no trade standard on the boundaries for the different varieties. This study serves as a reminder that in addition to the omphacite issue, the high concentration of albite in some goods is a potential problem facing laboratories. To better protect consumers, the NGDTC recommends a clear statement regarding the presence of albite on laboratory reports once the albite is identified by the standard gemological test especially according to refractive index, even by the FTIR spectrometer. @chapter:46 @chapter:4 @chapter:46


# Publication Year: -
# Title: GIA's Gübelin Gem Project: Spinel
# Abstract: Spinels
Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA, courtesy Dr. E. J. Gübelin Collection
GIA Collection 34618, 34661, 34662, 34908

Found in nearly every color – most notably red, pink and blue – spinels are popular gemstones because of their abundance, moderate cost and attractiveness. Red spinel has often been mistaken for ruby. Some spinel exhibits asterism (a star-shaped pattern of reflections), chatoyancy (a “cat’s-eye” effect seen in reflected light) or a color change when viewed alternately under incandescent and fluorescent lighting.

34613

			3.34 ct Spinel
			Myanmar (PDF)

33510

			4.27 ct Spinel
			Myanmar (PDF)

33502

			4.54 ct Spinel
			Myanmar (PDF)

34605

			5.70 ct Spinel
			Myanmar (PDF)

33508

			5.72 ct Spinel
			Myanmar (PDF)

33512

			9.33 ct Spinel
			Myanmar (PDF)

34664

			9.98 ct Spinel
			Myanmar (PDF)

34592

			10.42 ct Spinel
			Myanmar (PDF)

34618

			10.94 ct Spinel
			Myanmar (PDF)

34610

			11.21 ct Spinel
			Myanmar (PDF)

34661

			20.98 ct Spinel
			Myanmar (PDF)

33506

			3.43 ct Spinel
			Pakistan (PDF)

33532

			4.11 ct Spinel
			Pakistan (PDF)

34904

			0.68 ct Spinel
			Sri Lanka (PDF)

34903

			1.38 ct Spinel
			Sri Lanka (PDF)

34923

			2.50 ct Spinel
			Sri Lanka (PDF)

33545

			3.73 ct Spinel
			Sri Lanka (PDF)

33521

			4.67 ct Spinel
			Sri Lanka (PDF)

33491

			5.32 ct Spinel
			Sri Lanka (PDF)

33541

			5.42 ct Spinel
			Sri Lanka (PDF)

33492

			6.65 ct Spinel
			Sri Lanka (PDF)

34922

			7.98 ct Spinel
			Sri Lanka (PDF)

34925

			8.10 ct Spinel
			Sri Lanka (PDF)

34907

			8.29 ct Spinel
			Sri Lanka (PDF)

34915

			9.39 ct Spinel
			Sri Lanka (PDF)

33534

			11.44 ct Spinel
			Sri Lanka (PDF)

34914

			13.52 ct Spinel
			Sri Lanka (PDF)

33526

			13.71 ct Spinel
			Sri Lanka (PDF)

33535

			19.31 ct Spinel
			Sri Lanka (PDF)

33496

			9.79 ct Spinel
			Tajikistan (PDF) @chapter:6 @chapter:0 @chapter:6


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Diamonds Under the Scope
# Abstract: Cloud inclusions are relatively uncommon in diamonds. They can be beautiful and complex, like this dramatic hydrogen cloud, masquerading as a Venetian mask. Photo by John I. Koivula/GIA

Another world exists in gemstones when they are viewed through a microscope. Landscapes and whimsical creatures appear to come to life as you explore a gem’s internal features and formations.

Inclusions spin a tale of provenance and tell of the diamond's journey from deep within the earth to the surface. They are a geological time capsule that tells a story of a gem’s formation. Feather inclusions in a diamond, for example, can be indicative of a rough ride from the earth’s mantle to the surface. These birthmarks are signs of a diamond’s natural origin and make your diamond unique in the world.

In 1645 an Englishman saw a red crystal inclusion (probably a garnet) in a diamond belonging to a Venetian nobleman by the name of Rugini. This discovery sparked an interest in colored crystal “guest” minerals or inclusions in diamond. A number of crystal mineral inclusions have been reported since then.

"Inclusions impart character, beauty and essence to their host gems."
Dr. Edward J. Gübelin

The renowned Swiss gemologist Dr. Edward J. Gübelin (1913-2005) built a legacy on the study and systematic classification of the internal world of gemstones. His research demonstrated the importance of these internal features in determining a gem’s identity.

John I. Koivula, GIA’s analytical microscopist and longtime chief research gemologist, wrote to Dr. Gübelin as a teenager, sending along his first photomicrographs (photos taken through a microscope). This began a collaboration that would culminate in the three-volume "Photoatlas of Inclusions in Gemstones," landmark works that established the importance of inclusions as an aid to identifying gemstones. Their photomicrographs of inclusions illustrate common features in gemstones from particular localities. Their richly illustrated tomes also help separate natural from synthetic or treated gemstones, including diamonds.

Diamonds present some of the most striking inclusions to view under the microscope and host a variety of gemstone guest crystals. Some of the most frequently found are pyrope garnet, olivine or peridot, diopside, chrome-spinel, and much less frequently, ruby and sapphire. Diamond crystals are also frequently seen as inclusions within diamond itself.

View Gallery

Let your imagination take flight as you view the diamonds in this gallery.

The study and documentation of inclusions in diamond has inspired poetic and descriptive names: feather, cloud, halo, knot, needle, bearding and pinpoint.  With magnification, these scenes are clues to the natural origin of a diamond and give you a renewed appreciation for its characteristics and qualities. The possibilities of what you can see in these photomicrographs is almost endless. @chapter:44 @chapter:1 @chapter:44


# Publication Year: 1962
# Title: Developing the Powers of Observation in Gem Testing
# Abstract: According to Richard Liddicoat, the critical thinking process necessary for gem identification can be compared to the keen detective work of a Sherlock Homes. In this detailed look at the step-by-step procedures for pinpointing the identity of a given gem, Liddicoat stresses the importance of observation and perception. The gem identification techniques taught at GIA for more than 50 years have their foundation in these basic methods. @chapter:27 @chapter:0 @chapter:27


# Publication Year: 2017
# Title: Awards for James Shigley and Jonathan Muyal
# Abstract: Differential interference contrast lighting reveals natural surface growth marks on a Brazilian beryl specimen. Photomicrograph by Jonathan Muyal; field of view 0.72 mm.

Jonathan Muyal wins Royal Microscopical Society award. GIA Carlsbad staff gemologist and G&G contributor Jonathan Muyal took second place in the Light Microscopy–Physical Sciences division of the Royal Microscopical Society’s biennial Scientific Imaging Competition. The award-winning image (see above) shows natural surface growth marks on Brazilian beryl. Mr. Muyal used differential interference contrast lighting to create the image.

James Shigley receives AGS Lifetime Achievement Award. Dr. James E. Shigley, GIA’s distinguished research fellow, received the American Gem Society’s Lifetime Achievement Award at the AGS Circle of Distinction dinner on July 25, 2017 in New York. Since joining GIA in 1982, Dr. Shigley has made countless contributions to the field. He has lectured extensively on gems and gem identification, authored or coauthored more than 60 Gems & Gemology articles, and edited the G&G In Review book series. @chapter:16 @chapter:1 @chapter:16


# Publication Year: 2020
# Title: Trapiche Gems
# Abstract: Figure 1. A pair of trapiche emerald slices from Colombia, 10.92 carats total. Photo by Kevin Schumacher; courtesy of Mayer & Watt.

Jeffery Bergman is known in the trade as a collector of trapiche gems. These gems, characterized by their six-rayed patterns, are elusive and seldom found in high quality. Mr. Bergman believes people are attracted to the symmetrical pattern, which reflects a natural order in the chaotic world we live in. According to Bergman, trapiche gems are too rare to support a business, so he has also traded many other gemstones during his 50-year career.

	Jeffrey Bergman discusses trapiche gems

As with most gemologists, the first trapiche gems he saw were Colombian emeralds. But it wasn’t until 10 years after this initial encounter at the Tucson gem show that he purchased his first trapiche gemstone: a thick Colombian emerald weighing about 20 ct. Mr. Bergman sliced it in two, increasing the value after it became a matched pair of acceptable thickness.
He saw his first non-emerald trapiche gems at the Mae Sot gem market on the Thai-Burmese border in the early 2000s. Mr. Bergman was handed three Burmese trapiche sapphires from Mogok, something he never knew existed. Other collectors were equally surprised and paid high amounts for these stones, encouraging Mr. Bergman to expand his collection. During those days, many fine Burmese trapiche rubies came out of Mong Hsu while Mogok provided the trapiche sapphires.
Trapiche rough is extremely difficult to judge since the patterns often do not extend throughout the entire stone. In most cases, the most desirable pattern can only be found in the middle of the crystal length.
Trapiche and non-trapiche emerald evaluation are very similar, as the most important characteristics are always the color and transparency of the emerald itself (figure 1). The symmetry and shape of the pattern are only of secondary importance, followed by size and potential treatments.
Trapiche emeralds from Colombia are well known, with the Muzo mine producing the majority. The patterns can exhibit many variations, from perfect six-ray symmetry with high clarity to cloudy stones with broken or incomplete rays. Trapiche-like emeralds have recently been found in Swat, Pakistan, but they show a very different appearance and formation (Fall 2019 GNI, pp. 441–442). Beryls such as aquamarine and bixbite (red beryl) are known to exhibit trapiche or trapiche-like characteristics but they are even rarer than emeralds.
Trapiche corundum gems are mostly known from Myanmar. Trapiche ruby from Mong Hsu is often small. In his 20 years of trapiche experience, Mr. Bergman has only encountered two gem trapiche rubies from Mong Hsu that were over 1 carat. The material is fairly dark, which means it must be sliced thin to appreciate any color, thus reducing the weight of the stone drastically. Heat treatment rarely improves the appearance; it alters the trapiche pattern, making it chalkier and less pronounced.
The Tajik ruby mines have also produced trapiche rubies, as well as the mines in Nepal. Batakundi (Pakistan) and Orissa (India) are other sources of ruby with six-rayed patterns (Spring 2019 G&G  Micro-World, p. 114).

Figure 2. Trapiche sapphire from Mogok, Myanmar. This stone shows a regular pattern of snow white and blue zones. Photos by Kevin Schumacher.
Trapiche sapphires from Mogok (figure 2) are often dominated by gray tones or very saturated blues bordering black colors. Only the finest stones show a snow-white bodycolor with vivid blue arms. To date, these are the only true trapiche sapphires. Trapiche-like sapphires are much more common from basalt-related sources such as southern Vietnam, Australia, and even lesser-known areas such as Scotland.
Quartzes, including amethyst and smoky quartz, can exhibit trapiche patterns. A pocket of Zambian tourmalines and some extremely rare garnets also show a six-rayed pattern.
In Mr. Bergman’s opinion, trapiche only applies when the symmetry is sixfold. This excludes more common materials with similar growth patterns like chiastolite. Asteriated diamonds, most often found in Zimbabwe, resemble trapiche when viewed in certain angles, but in reality they contain clouds extending in three dimensions at 90º angles.
In the last decades, knowledge and appreciation of these unique stones has spread and they are now actively sought after by collectors, bespoke designers, and gem enthusiasts. This increased demand and availability has driven gemologists to take a deeper look at these gems and their formation, but there remains much to be discovered. @chapter:17 @chapter:0 @chapter:17


# Publication Year: 2022
# Title: A Zircon with Strong Photochromic Effect
# Abstract: Figure 1. This 6.54 ct zircon showed a significant color change from medium light greenish blue (left) to very dark yellowish green (right) after exposure to long-wave UV for two minutes, and the color was reversible during the photobleaching process with LED white light. Photos by Kai-Yun Huang.
Recently, a 6.54 ct oval faceted gemstone with greenish blue color (figure 1, left) was sent to Taiwan Union Lab of Gem Research (TULAB) for identification. The specific gravity of this stone was 4.68, and the refractive index was over the limit of the refractometer. Microscopic observation showed strong birefringence. In addition to standard gemological testing, Raman spectroscopy and comparison with the zircon reference spectrum R050203 from the RRUFF database (figure 2) confirmed it was a zircon. It was particularly worth noting that this zircon showed a significant color change from greenish blue to very dark yellowish green (figure 1) when exposed to a long-wave ultraviolet lamp.

Figure 2. The stacked Raman spectra of the greenish blue zircon and a zircon reference spectrum from the RRUFF database; spectra are normalized and baseline-corrected.

Figure 3. Visible spectra of the zircon (after UV light exposure) during the photobleaching process were recorded every six minutes. The gradually decreasing spectral change implied that the color tended to stabilize.
To determine the extent of the color change and whether it was permanent or reversible, the zircon was first exposed to long-wave UV light for one minute and then under 10W white LED light for another minute (the light sources were placed approximately 3 cm away from the gemstone). After repeating this process several times with each exposure one minute longer than the previous time, we confirmed that the color changed from medium light greenish blue with strong saturation to a medium dark greenish yellow with lower saturation after two minutes of long-wave UV light exposure. However, the greenish yellow color gradually returned to the stable greenish blue color after photobleaching with LED white light for 30 minutes. Therefore, the stone was a photochromic zircon with reversible color change (as reported in N.D. Renfro, “Reversible color modification of blue zircon by long-wave ultraviolet radiation,” Fall 2016 G&G, pp. 246–251). After the color change reached its full extent under long-wave UV light, the zircon was analyzed by visible spectroscopy to record its continuous spectral change during the photobleaching process every six minutes (figure 3). The resulting spectra revealed that the light transmittance in the range between 450 nm and 550 nm gradually increased during the photobleaching process, and the greenish blue color finally returned to a stable state after 30 minutes.
Although this type of photochromic zircon has previously been reported, a zircon over 6 ct with such a significant photochromic effect is still rare and worth noting, especially since it exhibited a distinct difference in hue, tone, and saturation. @chapter:18 @chapter:1 @chapter:18


# Publication Year: 2018
# Title: Finds from the Secondary Market
# Abstract: Figure 1. Two of B&B's most spectacular finds on the secondary market were these two red beryls from Utah, which has been out of production for decades. Photos by Kevin Schumacher.
During the AGTA show, Dave Bindra of B&B Fine Gems (Los Angeles) showed us some noteworthy pieces from a gem collection he acquired last year and shared his thoughts about the state of the colored stone market.

Bindra noted that B&B is very active in searching the secondary markets for unique material. Last year, they came into a significant collection from a client. Several of the items had previously been in B&B’s stock, though the collection contains stones from all over the world. Among them are two incredible red beryls from Utah: a 3.01 ct emerald cut and a 4.08 ct round brilliant (figure 1) that is the world’s largest round red beryl. Bindra considers these two of the most important red beryls on the market. Red beryl from Utah has been well out of production in these sizes for decades.

Fabulous Finds from the Secondary Market
Dave Bindra of B&B Fine Gems shows some exemplary material from the secondary market.
Another highlight was a 61.92 ct Imperial topaz of unknown provenance and free of heat treatment (see figure 3 of the 2018 Tucson overview). The very rich sherry color in unheated Imperial topaz is extremely rare. That, plus the clarity and size, makes for an impressive stone of museum quality.

Also on display was a collection of 2–3 ct Kashmir sapphires, material that Bindra said customers are seeking, particularly in the Southeast Asian market. Kashmir sapphires have been out of production and even circulation for many years and are often found only at estate sales. Other remarkable stones from the collection included a 76.50 ct sphene with coloring reminiscent of a Christmas tree and a sugarloaf-cut 38.46 ct tanzanite (figure 2).

Figure 2. Also part of a collection purchased from a client was this 38.46 ct sugarloaf-cut tanzanite. Photo by Albert Salvato.
Bindra sees unprecedented demand for colored gemstones, particularly the high-end and unusual, making this an exciting time for those who deal in the rare and esoteric. There are a number of factors at play, including the influx of new consumers domestically and abroad, particularly in Southeast Asia, though the Chinese market is less active than in previous years. Record-breaking auction prices are also driving up the value of colored gems. Bindra cited commercial-quality Mozambique ruby as an example; the very finest specimens from that country still command top prices. The highest-quality Mozambique rubies exhibit a subtle fluorescence, giving them a glow reminiscent of Burmese material. B&B has sold some of the extraordinary pieces that were featured in previous G&G Tucson reports. Bindra believes that many Americans have generated new wealth and view colored gemstones in the same way they see other tangible and collectible assets, such as luxury cars and fine art. This has been a great boon to the market. As Bindra noted, “The time for color is now.” @chapter:33 @chapter:2 @chapter:33


# Publication Year: 2024
# Title: Hairlike Inclusions in Benitoite
# Abstract: Whitish hairlike inclusions in a 3.55 ct faceted benitoite. Photomicrograph by Taku Okada; field of view 2.37 mm.
The authors recently examined a 3.55 ct benitoite that featured whitish hairlike inclusions throughout the stone (see above). The inclusions were too thin to be identified by Raman spectroscopy.
Gem-quality benitoite has been extracted from a single mine in California and is reported to occur with natrolite gangue in altered blueschist within serpentinite. Minerals found within benitoite include actinolite-tremolite, aegirine-augite, diopside, serandite pseudomorphs, neptunite, joaquinite, albite, apatite, and djurleite (B.M. Laurs et al., “Benitoite from the New Idria District, San Benito County, California,” Fall 1997 G&G, pp. 166–187). Therefore, the hairlike inclusions in this stone could be natrolite, chrysotile (white asbestos), or tremolite, which have whitish colors and acicular or fibrous crystal habits. @chapter:8 @chapter:0 @chapter:8


# Publication Year: 2024
# Title: China's jewelry industry
# Abstract: Since the 1990s up until the millennium, the jewelry industry has been a profitable sector in China, particularly with gold jewelry remaining highly popular. According to IIMEDIA in 2023, fashion jewelry from various brands collaborated with famous animation games to design jewelry that aligns with trends while also reflecting personal tastes. This approach resonated with the younger demographic who enjoys gaming. The survey data showed that major brands collaborating with intellectual property (IP) and appealing to Chinese consumers accounted for over 49.4% of purchases, especially products related to animation and cartoons due to the increasing number of new consumers. Consequently, many jewelry brands had to collaborate with other industries to secure a future for their products.

The jewelry industry is a relatively new sector that has been separated and integrated from the gift and craftsmanship industries. It can be divided into home jewelry, wearable jewelry, and automotive jewelry. Wearable jewelry mostly includes body adornments like earrings, necklaces, bracelets, rings, and watches, categorized by usage method and materials, mainly metals and alloys.

The global jewelry industry is dominated by Europe, known for its luxurious, valuable, and expensive jewelry. The European jewelry industry originated in the 13th century and has since developed into various categories, covering high-end jewelry to fashion jewelry, with numerous products and influential brands. Brands like Chanel, Dior, Gucci, and Burberry are prominent players in the global jewelry market, showcasing a wide range of products and brand images that significantly impact the global jewelry market.

In terms of market value in 2023, nine out of ten leading luxury goods companies globally come from Europe. While every sector of the industry was impacted by the COVID-19 pandemic, after the pandemic subsided and borders reopened, Europe's tourism industry began to recover, leading to a positive growth trend in the European jewelry market as well.

According to IIMEDIA data in 2023, the top 5 most favored jewelry brands among Chinese consumers in 2023 were from China, Switzerland, France, Italy, and South Korea. However, more than half of the consumers favored Chinese brands. This trend reflects the significant development and heavy promotion of China's jewelry industry in recent years. Chinese jewelry brands have successfully blended traditional culture with unique designs, making them highly appealing to Chinese consumers.

The jewelry market in China is indeed fascinating for global entrepreneurs due to its large population and the popularity of jewelry. However, this also makes the competition in China's jewelry market quite fierce. Thai entrepreneurs looking to enter the Chinese market with Thai jewelry must significantly enhance product quality, create a distinctive identity, and thoroughly study the trends and preferences in China. This is crucial because competitors, both domestic and international, hold significant influence, especially renowned European jewelry brands with decades of reputation, and even Chinese brands that consistently develop themselves. @chapter:32 @chapter:3 @chapter:32


# Publication Year: 2020
# Title: Metal Sulfide Crystal in a Sapphire
# Abstract: A rounded metal sulfide crystal displays a metallic luster within an unheated sapphire. Photomicrograph by Muzdareefah Thudsanapbunya; field of view 2.3 mm.

The author recently examined a faceted sapphire from Sri Lanka. Gemological analysis confirmed that it was unheated. The sample contained a crystal that, when examined under the microscope using darkfield illumination and oblique fiber-optic illumination, exhibited a highly reflective surface. The observations of the metallic luster and rounded appearance (see above) suggested that this inclusion was most likely an iron sulfide.
Iron sulfides are found as opaque mineral inclusions with metallic luster in corundum. The iron sulfides usually seen in corundum are pyrite (FeS2) and pyrrhotite (Fe1-xS) (E.J. Gübelin and J.I. Koivula, Photoatlas of Inclusions in Gemstones, Vol. 3, Opinio Publishers, Basel, Switzerland, 2008, p. 285). Also present was a partially healed fracture, or fingerprint, next to this crystal, which made for an interesting inclusion scene. @chapter:26 @chapter:0 @chapter:26


# Publication Year: 2022
# Title: Sugar/Heat-Treated Opal
# Abstract: From left to right: rough Andamooka matrix opal, a slice after treatment, and a 72 ct finished freeform cabochon. Photo by Tao Hsu; courtesy of Unconventional Lapidarist.
Treatments can cause harm when they are not disclosed properly, but without treatments, fewer gem resources would find their usage in the jewelry trade. At the AGTA show, the authors had the rare opportunity to talk with James Carpenter from Arkansas-based Unconventional Lapidarist about sugar/heat treatment on porous rough opal.
Sugar and acid treatment is one of the most commonly used methods to enhance opal. In the trade, this treatment is usually applied to matrix opal from Andamooka, Australia, a particularly porous material. The finished product is often referred to as “Andamooka matrix opal” or “Andamooka rainbow matrix opal” by the trade. This treatment was presented as a hot sugar bath followed by a hot acid bath (G. Brown, “Treated Andamooka matrix opal,” Summer 1991 G&G, pp. 100–106). The chemical reaction between sugar and acid then deposits carbon to the porous structure of the opal as black dots. The treatment darkens the background color of the opal and therefore makes the play-of-color stand out more.
Carpenter revealed that he treated the opal without using acid to gain a similar result. The opals, either slices or cabochons, were first soaked in a hot 50% sugary water solution for 6 to 9 hours. After cooling down from the hot sugar bath, the pieces were patted dry and then tightly wrapped in aluminum foil. Carpenter emphasized that tight wrapping is especially important because a loose wrap causes the sugar to sweat out and possibly generate more cracks in the material. The well-wrapped materials were then heated in a toaster oven at 450–500°F for about 4 hours. After the final cooling, the materials were polished to finished products or retreated if necessary, revealing a dramatic change from start to finish (see above). @chapter:48 @chapter:0 @chapter:48


# Publication Year: 1988
# Title: Winter 1988 Gem News International
# Abstract: Diamonds
            New Factory Set Up in China
            "Filled" Diamond Update
            India to Synthesize Diamonds
            Natural Diamond with Highly Unusual Inclusions
            Synthetic Diamond Thin-Film Update
Colored Stones
            Pyrope or Spinel: A Question of Identity
            Continued Tsavorite Mining
            Unusual Indian Quartz
            California Quartz
            "Aqua Aura" Quartz
            New Evidence of Treatment in Umba Sapphires
            Largest Faceted Gemstone
            Ruby Receives Highest Price at Auction
Synthetics
            Unusual Synthetic Beryls from the Soviet Union
            The Pool Synthetic Emerald
Announcements
            NAG to Register Qualified Jewelry Appraisers in Great Britain
            New Journal Gemological Digest No Longer Free
            Colored Gemstone Conference 1989
            ICA Promotes Gembureau
            INHORGENTA in Munich
            Trade Shows in Hong Kong

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:21 @chapter:0 @chapter:21


# Publication Year: 2014
# Title: Books: Jewels of Ancient Nubia
# Abstract: By Yvonne J. Markowitz and Denise Doxey, 184 pp., publ. by Museum of Fine Arts, Boston, 2014, $45.00.

              Nubia, known as Kush in antiquity, was a flourishing civilization for more than three millennia. It encompassed an area from south of Egypt to northern Sudan. Among the thousands of Nubian archaeological remains, their jewelry and personal adornment items stand out for their beauty, elegance, innovation, and technical mastery.

Modern-day knowledge of the kingdom is limited to accounts contained in ancient Egyptian records. Even though Nubia was a rival and a frequent enemy, the Egyptians referred to it as “the gold lands” for its precious metal and mineral resources. The Nubians themselves left very few written accounts, and their language is yet to be deciphered and translated. Appreciation of this fascinating culture later suffered the Eurocentric favoring of Ancient Egypt, and the modern world has known little about the region until recently. Jewels of Ancient Nubia provides the first comprehensive introduction to Nubian history through its artifacts.

The book features items made of gold, silver, and electrum (a natural gold and silver alloy) that illustrate the resources and the sophisticated goldsmithing techniques of the Nubian civilization. Similarly, local gems such as quartz, amazonite, ivory, mica, and malachite were used in many forms. There seems to have been an interest in lapis lazuli and carnelian beads, possibly influenced by the neighboring Egyptians. To the modern observer, the most outstanding jewelry pieces were created by glazing clear quartz. Faience, an ancient type of ceramic adopted from Egypt, was used to glaze quartz beads. In particular, they mastered the blue glazing technique, not only on beads but also on quartz sculptures and crystals. Quartz presumably held a deep religious significance for Nubians. These fascinating objects are beautifully photographed for the book and offer a visual delight.

It is fascinating to learn about the ancients’ degree of sophistication in creating imitation gems. Yet some of the descriptions of gemstones, minerals and rocks do not justify the detailed research of the subject. For example, the term “amethystine” is outdated, yet surprisingly used in this modern publication. A number of mineral and rock descriptions given in the glossary are inconsistent with modern mineralogical and gemological terminology. But given the significance of this subject, the nomenclature issues do not detract from the importance of this publication and the quality of the authors’ work. Jewels of Ancient Nubia deserves a place in any gemologist and jewelry historian’s library. @chapter:31 @chapter:2 @chapter:31


# Publication Year: 2016
# Title: Large Aqueous Primary Fluid Inclusion in Amethyst
# Abstract: Figure 1. This 15.54 ct triangular modified brilliant faceted amethyst (left) features a large aqueous primary fluid inclusion (right; field of view 7.19 mm). Photos by Jonathan Muyal.

	A triangular modified brilliant was submitted to GIA’s Carlsbad laboratory by L. Allen Brown (All That Glitters, Methuen, Massachusetts) for scientific examination. The 15.54 ct stone (figure 1, left) was presented as a Moroccan amethyst. Standard gemological testing established the following properties: RI—1.544−1.553; birefringence—0.009; optic sign—uniaxial positive; pleochroism—moderate purplish blue to purple; SG—2.65; fluorescence reaction—inert to long- and short-wave UV radiation. All of these properties were consistent with amethyst. What made this example notable was a strikingly large primary fluid inclusion under the table facet, which is easily seen with the unaided eye and confirms the natural origin of this stone (figure 1, right). The gas bubble in the fluid inclusion moves freely when the stone is turned slightly. No magnification is needed to reveal the beauty of this interactive inclusion, which can be easily enjoyed by rocking and tilting the stone. @chapter:26 @chapter:0 @chapter:26


# Publication Year: 1984
# Title: The Early History of Gemstone Treatments
# Abstract: This article examines the origins of gemstone treatment. Using such primary sources as Pliny's History and the relatively unknown Stockholm Papyrus, the author has uncovered many ancient references to, and even recipes for, the simulation or enhancement of gemstones. Among the processes described are crackling and dyeing quartz, foilbacking, the making of doublets and triplets, boiling amber in oil, and heat treating sapphire to simulate diamond. Although some of the ingredients, such as goat’s blood and leek juice, have been replaced by less exotic elements, it is interesting to note that through their crude experimentation, the ancient forerunners of modern science discovered basic methods and principles of gemstone treatment that are still in use today. @chapter:17 @chapter:0 @chapter:17


# Publication Year: 2019
# Title: Faceted Chiolite
# Abstract: Figure 1. This 1.04 ct colorless octagonal cut was identified as chiolite. Photo by Diego Sanchez.

Recently, the GIA lab in Carlsbad received a colorless 1.04 ct gemstone of a material that was new to the lab (figure 1). The measured refractive index was 1.342–1.349 with a birefringence of 0.007 and an optic character of uniaxial negative. The specific gravity, measured hydrostatically, was 3.01. These properties were consistent with the mineral chiolite, which was confirmed by Raman spectroscopy (see figure 2 and http://rruff.info/R050412).

Figure 2. Raman spectroscopy confirmed the colorless stone’s identity as chiolite.
Chiolite is a very rare transparent to translucent colorless or snow-white mineral with a vitreous luster, perfect cleavage in one direction, and a white streak. It crystallizes in the tetragonal system and is composed of sodium and aluminum, with the formula Na5Al3F14 (the presence of these elements was confirmed with EDXRF). The principal source of gem-quality material is Ivigtut, Greenland, where it occurs in association with cryolite. Other gem-quality sources include Miass in the Ilmen Mountains region of Russia, where it is found in a cryolite pegmatite, and the Morefield pegmatite mine in Virginia (see AZoMining.com). The mineral was first discovered at Miass in 1846. The name is very similar to cryolite, a related mineral. Cryolite comes from Greek for “ice stone,” while chiolite means “snow stone.” Like their namesakes, they are sometimes found together, though chiolites are rarer.
This gem has a very low hardness (3.5–4 on the Mohs scale) and perfect cleavage. The stones are usually small and nondescript. Nevertheless, chiolite has joined the ranks of minerals cut by faceters who wish to try their hand at everything clean enough to cut, and a cut stone would make quite a specimen for a gem collection.
Chiolite occurs in some granite pegmatites and is associated with ralstonite, pachnolite, elpasolite, cryolite, thomsenolite, cryolithionite, fluorite, phenakite, and topaz (see mindat.org and rruff.info).
Chiolite is difficult to cut, extremely rare, and has little commercial appeal. It is solely a curiosity in the gem world. @chapter:15 @chapter:0 @chapter:15


# Publication Year: 2010
# Title: Gemstone Enhancement and its Detection in the 2000s
# Abstract: Advances in technology and increased demand for lower-priced gem materials contributed to the proliferation of new treatments throughout the first decade of the 2000s. The developments that made the most difference were the diffusion treatment of corundum with beryllium, diffusion of copper into feldspar, clarity enhancement of ruby and diamond, and heat treatment of diamond, ruby, and sapphire. Gemological laboratories and researchers have done their best to keep up with these treatments, and the jewelry trade has struggled with how to disclose them. This article summarizes these developments and the methods used to identify the various enhancements. @chapter:35 @chapter:1 @chapter:35


# Publication Year: 2021
# Title: Effects of Blue Fluorescence on Diamond Appearance, Color Treatment and Brightening of “Edison” Pearls, and a Pioneering Gemstone Market in Pakistan
# Abstract: Welcome to the Summer installment of Gems & Gemology! This issue sizzles with new content, including the relationship between fluorescence and diamond appearance, a deep dive into the world of pearls with advances in color treatment detection and a comprehensive classification system, and the evolution of the Namak Mandi gemstone market in Peshawar, Pakistan.
“…quantitatively characterizes the effects of fluorescence intensity on perceived transparency and appearance...”
Our lead article looks at the long-debated effects of blue fluorescence on the appearance of diamonds with D-to-Z color grades. Some argue that colorless to near-colorless diamonds possessing strong or very strong fluorescence will appear hazy or “oily.” Others express concern that lower-color diamonds may appear one color grade better depending on fluorescence intensity. A GIA team led by Yun Luo quantitatively characterizes the effects of fluorescence intensity on perceived transparency and appearance to help reduce biases in the industry and promote consumer confidence.
Advances in freshwater culturing techniques have dramatically improved the quality of freshwater cultured pearl output from China, making color treatment detection a key element of the identification process in gemological laboratories. In the second article of this issue, Chunhui Zhou and fellow researchers study 23 freshwater “Edison” pearls with a mix of natural and treated colors. A combination of various gemological tests and advanced analytical methods presented in this study prove effective in detecting color treatment and optical brightening.
Next, Joyce Wing Yan Ho and Sally Chan Shih present GIA’s comprehensive pearl classification system based on seven value factors—size, shape, color, luster, surface, nacre, and matching. This article is accompanied by an illustrated wall chart intended as a valuable visual reference.
In the final article, Habib Ur Rehman and coauthors journey to the Namak Mandi market in Peshawar, the largest rough gemstone trading hub in Pakistan. They document its transformation over the last 50 years from a salt market to the bustling “intersection of anxiety” engaged in modern gem commerce. The authors also examine the gemstone supply chain, the continued use of traditional cutting tools, and the shift toward ethical pricing and trading practices.
As always, our regular columns provide an array of gemological insights from around the world. Highlights of the Lab Notes section include an impressive emerald imitation in the form of dyed beryl, a desirable Melo pearl discovered while preparing a Melo shell for consumption, and an exquisite opal strand displaying bright and vibrant play-of-color. The Micro-World section explores the inner landscapes of gemstones, offering a glimpse into Earth’s natural forces, including two high-quality diamonds with noteworthy green chromium-colored diopside and purplish pink pyrope garnet inclusions, respectively, and heavily etched blue beryl from Pakistan. In Gem News International, you’ll find a characterization of natural freshwater pearls from Russia, Scotland, and Germany, as well as an examination of 28 non-bead cultured freshwater pearls grown over 14 years in Lake Biwa, Japan (a precursor to a more detailed review), and much more.
We hope you enjoy the latest issue of Gems & Gemology! @chapter:41 @chapter:1 @chapter:41