# Publication Year: -
# Title: CVD Diamond Over 34 Carats Examined in GIA’s Hong Kong Laboratory
# Abstract: Figure 1. This 34.59 ct CVD-grown diamond (24.94 × 13.95 × 9.39 mm), produced by Ethereal Green Diamond in India, is the largest GIA has tested. Photo by Johnny (Chak Wan) Leung.
Chemical vapor deposition (CVD) growth technology has advanced significantly over the last two decades. In this study, we report on the largest CVD gem diamond GIA has encountered, recently tested in the Hong Kong laboratory. This emerald-cut diamond weighed 34.59 ct, measuring 24.94 × 13.95 × 9.39 mm (figure 1), produced by Ethereal Green Diamond in India. It had G color and VS2 clarity. Small black graphite inclusions were found. Some stood alone inside the body, while others formed clusters of clouds located between growth layers. Microscopic observation showed a weak oily or wavy graining looking through the table facet, a feature sometimes seen in CVD gem diamonds. It tends to appear more prominent in CVD diamonds with high amounts of strain and a strong birefringence pattern when viewed through crossed polarizers (figure 2).

Figure 2. A high amount of strain and a strong birefringence pattern were observed using crossed polarizers. Photomicrograph by Ka Wing Tam; field of view 15.92 mm.

Figure 3. Left: The PL spectrum with 514 nm laser excitation under liquid nitrogen temperature showed features of treated CVD diamond. Right: The PL spectrum with 457 nm laser excitation under liquid nitrogen temperature recorded a strong H3 defect and a negligible 467.6 nm center.
Infrared absorption spectroscopy revealed no absorption related to nitrogen, which is consistent with type IIa diamond. However, a weak absorption related to boron (an absorption peak at ~2800 cm–1) was detected, corresponding to around 2 ppb of boron impurity. This trace amount of boron was very likely incorporated as contamination during diamond growth. There are different opinions on whether this trace contamination should be considered in diamond classification. Photoluminescence (PL) spectroscopy was performed at liquid nitrogen temperature (–196°C) with several laser excitations (figure 3). In addition to strong emissions from NV0 and NV– centers at 575 nm and 637 nm, respectively, moderately strong doublet emissions from SiV– at 736.6 and 736.9 nm were recorded. A weak emission at 946.4 nm, possibly from the SiV0 defect, was also observed. Other important emission features included a strong emission from the H3 defect at 503.2 nm and a weak emission band with peaks at 566.0, 566.7, and 567.7 nm. Emissions at 596/597 and 467.6 nm, which are common in as-grown CVD diamonds, were reduced by high-temperature treatment. These observations and spectroscopic features confirmed that this CVD diamond was annealed under high pressure and high temperature (HPHT) to improve its color appearance. In contrast, no post-growth color treatment was applied to the 16.41 ct CVD lab-grown diamond tested a year earlier in the New York laboratory (W. Wang et al., “New record size for CVD laboratory-grown diamond,” GIA Research News, January 27, 2022).

Figure 4. DiamondView imaging revealed at least eight growth steps. Image by Ka Wing Tam.
DiamondView fluorescence imaging showed green and blue colors with a banded pattern. Typical CVD growth striations were clearly visible (figure 4). Green fluorescence was from the H3 defect, produced during HPHT annealing. This banded structure revealed at least eight growth steps to achieve sufficient depth for this large diamond. Additionally, strong blue phosphorescence with similar banding was detected in the DiamondView.

This very large CVD diamond represents a milestone in CVD growth. Mined diamonds with similar size and quality are very rare. We will continue monitoring developments in gem diamond growth technology to ensure all diamonds are properly identified in GIA laboratories. @chapter:9 @chapter:1 @chapter:9


# Publication Year: 2005
# Title: Characterization and Grading of Natural-Color Yellow Diamonds
# Abstract: To better understand the yellow diamonds currently in the marketplace, as well as identify possible changes in their trends seen over a five-year period, researchers at the GIA Gem Laboratory analyzed gemological data collected on more than 24,000 natural-color yellow diamonds examined in the calendar years 1998 and 2003. These data included color grade, type of cut, clarity grade, weight, ultraviolet fluorescence, and UV-visible and infrared spectra. Among natural-color colored diamonds, those with a yellow hue are some of the most abundant; even so, they are much less common than the colorless to light yellow diamonds associated with GIA’s D-to-Z color grading scale. Since the yellow color is a continuation of the gradation of color associated with the D-to-Z scale, there can be misconceptions about the color grading, which involves different procedures from those used for D-to-Z grading. The grading and appearance aspects, as well as other characteristics of yellow diamonds, are discussed to clarify these differences. The authors have also identified five subgroups of type I yellow diamonds, which (with some overlap) are characterized by representative spectra and color appearances. @chapter:39 @chapter:1 @chapter:39


# Publication Year: 2015
# Title: A Jadeite Bangle Simulant: Hydrogrossular Garnet
# Abstract: Figure 1. The photo on the left shows a jadeite jade bangle. The photo on the right shows two hydrogrossular garnet bangles that were claimed to be jadeite. Photos by Lai Tai-An Gem Lab.

Jadeite, a material significant within Chinese culture, is often submitted to the Lai Tai-An Gem Laboratory for identification.

Historically, the name “jade” has been applied to either nephrite or jadeite. Nephrite has been used for adornment and ornamentation for thousands of years in China, and nephrite objects from many dynasties are found in museums, auctions, and antique shops around the world. While newer to the Chinese market, jadeite jade is becoming increasingly important. Jadeite bangles (figure 1, left) require more rough than cabochons or fashioned stones, resulting in a larger amount of waste. Consequently, the value placed on good-quality pieces is higher, and jadeite bangles with fine textures and brilliant colors continue to set new records in auction houses.

We recently received two similar-looking bangles (figure 1, right) for identification. The client claimed the pieces were jadeite, but we determined them to be hydrogrossular garnet. This jadeite simulant is rarely seen in bangle form; it is more likely encountered as carvings or cabochons. In this particular case, the similarity to jadeite was extremely convincing.

The two translucent, light to strongly saturated green and white hydrogrossular garnet bangles weighed 339.55 ct and 400.03 ct, and measured 75 × 11 mm and 77 × 12 mm, respectively. Both exhibited a spot refractive index of 1.72, specific gravities of 3.42/3.45, inert reaction to both short-wave and long-wave UV, and a light pink reaction through the Chelsea color filter. The absorption spectrum showed a cutoff below 460 nm, and the material exhibited black pepper-like inclusions (figure 2); these characteristics suggest that the color of the garnet is natural.

Figure 2. These hydrogrossular garnet bangles exhibit the black pepper-like inclusions that are sometimes found in this material. Photo by Lai Tai-An Gem Lab; field of view 8.20 mm.
The identification was confirmed by FTIR and Raman analysis. Peaks at 954, 866, 843, 616, 560, 488, and 458 cm–1 in the infrared spectra (figure 3), and peaks at 367, 408, 544, 823, 877, 1489, and 1543 cm–1 (figure 4) in the Raman spectrum are indicative of hydrogrossular garnet. The similarity to jadeite could lead to a costly error, so those in the trade must be aware of such imitations.

Figure 3. FTIR spectra reveal the difference between jadeite jade (red line, peaks at 1175,
1075, 1051, 957, 855, 745, 666, 589, 534, 476, and 435 cm–1) and hydrogrossular garnet
(blue line, peaks at 954, 866, 843, 616, 560, 488, and 458 cm–1).

Figure 4. Raman analysis of one of the client’s bangles, using a near-infrared wavelength
of 785 nm, confirms its hydrogrossular garnet identity. @chapter:46 @chapter:0 @chapter:46


# Publication Year: 1989
# Title: "Opalite": Plastic Imitation Opal with True Play-Of-Color
# Abstract: A plastic imitation opal that shows true play-of-color was advertised as "new" and offered for sale under the trade name "Opalite" at the Gem and Lapidary Dealers Association (GLDA) Tucson show in February 1988. Subsequent gemological testing proved that this material was virtually identical to the plastic imitation opal previously described in the literature that was known to be manufactured in Japan. It is now being marketed worldwide under a new name. @chapter:48 @chapter:0 @chapter:48


# Publication Year: 2019
# Title: Gem Legacy: A Nonprofit for East African Communities
# Abstract: Figure 1. Sourcing gem rough from East Africa led Roger Dery to seek ways to benefit the communities. These pink and green tourmalines are from the Democratic Republic of the Congo. Photo by Rachel Dery.
The launch party for Gem Legacy, a nonprofit organization benefiting East African mining communities, was held in Tucson on February 8. This author sat down with founder Roger Dery (Roger Dery Gem Design, Royal Oak, Michigan) to discuss the organization’s mission and projects.

	Gem Legacy: A nonprofit for East African communities

Dery entered the trade in 1981, supplying gems from Brazil, India, and East African countries to jewelry stores in the Midwest before becoming a cutter. He took his first trip to Africa in 2008, visiting a dozen mines in Madagascar over 17 days and purchasing rough from the communities (see figure 1). Over the course of several more trips, also visiting mines and gem dealers in Tanzania and Kenya, Dery realized that he did not just want to purchase goods and leave, nor did he want to conflict with local customs. Through 2017, he and his fellow travelers brought food to mining villages to build trust and contribute to each community.

Figure 2. Through the work of Gem Legacy, orphans in the Mwatate Children’s Home in Mwatate, Kenya, had their school fees covered. Photo by Rachel Dery.
After consulting with his wife and daughter about the best way to contribute to these communities, in 2018 Dery formed Gem Legacy, a nonprofit that supports specific projects in the areas of education, vocational training, and entrepreneurship. Gem Legacy has provided three sessions of gemological training in Malawi (in conjunction with the country’s Ministry of Mines), paid school fees for orphans in Malawi (figure 2), provided beds to orphaned children in Kenya, and delivered equipment to women miners in southern Kenya. They are now raising funds to update the machines at Tanzania’s Arusha Gem Faceting School.
There are many ways to give through Gem Legacy. Retailers may choose to stock souvenirs made in communities that benefit from the nonprofit and donate all proceeds back to the communities. Other options include event hosting and donating a percentage from sales of a given collection. Gem Legacy also encourages pajama, toy, and book drives; grassroots fundraising through platforms such as GoFundMe; and direct donations to the nonprofit itself.
For more on Gem Legacy, go to https://www.gemlegacy.org. @chapter:38 @chapter:3 @chapter:38


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Taming Zimbabwe’s Diamond Production
# Abstract: With the EU’s removal of sanctions against Zimbabwean diamonds, rough stones from the controversial Marange deposit are being auctioned in Antwerp. These diamonds often have a greenish tint. Photo by Mike Breeding and Wuyi Wang.

                      In mid-December 2013, some 280,000 carats of rough diamonds from Zimbabwe’s Marange deposit were auctioned off in Antwerp through the auspices of the Antwerp World Diamond Center (AWDC).

This sale was a trial run, consisting of mostly low-end material, but it represented a major step in efforts to transform what had been a wild card in the world diamond market—in terms of accountability, pricing and supply—into an orderly flow of rough to mainstream diamond manufacturers and dealers. Until this auction, all Marange rough had been sold through Zimbabwe’s capital city of Harare, with little or no vetting of buyers or price transparency. According to Mark Van Bockstael, who chairs the Kimberley Process Working Group of Diamond Experts, the December auction was the first step in a long-term movement to eventually route most or all Marange rough sales through Antwerp. This sale was made possible by the European Union’s Sept. 24 decision to remove all sanctions against diamonds from Zimbabwe.

Van Bockstael, who is also an executive of the AWDC, has spent considerable time on the ground in Zimbabwe. From November 2011 to December 2012, he was one of two official monitors working toward establishing Marange’s compliance with the KP.

	Mark Van Bockstael, chairman of the Kimberley Process Working Group of Diamond Experts, spent two years bringing Zimbabwe’s Marange operations into compliance with Kimberley Process standards. Photo by Russell Shor.
The auction drew criticism from many quarters, including activist groups and some members of the diamond industry who claimed the sale aided a repressive regime which routinely violates human rights. Yet Van Bockstael says the days of forced labor and uncontrolled diamond digging are long over. All seven mining concessions are secured and professionally run and mechanized, he explains, stressing that the Kimberley Process Certification Scheme (KPCS) has instituted three major steps to make certain Marange’s mining operations conform to standard.

“First, we have ensured that all of the diamond production is accounted for,” he says, pointing to a satellite map of the Marange area mounted on the wall of his Antwerp office. “We can track production via satellite imaging. We know the grade (carats per ton of ore) of each concession, and through satellites we can see how much material is extracted each month. We check this information against company ledgers to verify their reporting.

“Second, all production data is matched against the exports listed on Kimberley Process certificates to ensure it is all sold legitimately.

“Third, we monitor the security of the area. All unlicensed mining is illegal, and we made sure local officials enforce this law,” he notes, adding that incidents of illegal artisanal mining have fallen to near zero in the past two years. All of the mining concessions are enclosed, with double fencing around the actual mining areas and additional security features at the processing plants to minimize unauthorized production.

“An additional fourth step is unrelated to the KPCS, but is a result of moving the rough diamond sales to Antwerp, which puts them under strict European Union guidelines regarding finance and transparency.”

The controversy over Marange erupted in 2007–2008 after thousands of artisanal diggers migrated there to work the newly discovered diamond deposit. Forces controlled by the country’s leader, Robert Mugabe, evicted the miners in a brutal campaign in late 2008 that reportedly left 180 dead and hundreds wounded. Following these forced evictions came allegations that Zimbabwe’s government forces continued to commit human rights abuses, including rape and forced labor, against the remaining miners and their families. As a result, the U.S. and the European Union, which had already imposed sanctions on enterprises controlled by Mugabe and his inner circle, banned diamond companies based on their own soil from dealing in Marange diamonds.

The abuses at Marange created a crisis within the Kimberley Process as well. The KPCS was established in 2003 to prevent rebel or terrorist groups from illegally mining and selling diamonds to finance their activities, requiring certificates for all rough diamonds to guarantee they were exported legally. The fact that the officially recognized Zimbabwean government, rather than a rebel group, was charged with the human rights abuses created sharp divisions within the organization, and brought intense criticism from human rights organizations and some governments. The KPCS was portrayed as toothless—or, worse yet, complicit in the country’s disregard for human rights, particularly after its 2011 decision to conditionally approve Marange diamonds for export.

Van Bockstael has heard all of the criticisms, but stresses that the KPCS has gone far beyond its charter to bring order to Marange’s chaotic diamond production.

“They accuse us of doing nothing, but we worked hard for two years to make certain all of the operations were compliant with KPCS standards,” he says, adding that in his time on the ground he did not witness human rights abuses. He also notes that the seven government-approved concession holders “have done their due diligence in regards to water use, ecological and environmental protection. We have monitored their operations so we know they are fully compliant to KPCS standards.”

Van Bockstael does acknowledge there are complaints from NGOs, especially over artisanal mining. “It’s even illegal for people to dig for diamonds—even in their own villages, in their own backyards. They don’t like that, but allowing such digging makes it impossible to account for the production.”

One of the mining companies working the Marange deposit, the Chinese-Zimbabwean venture Anjin, relocated 417 families from its concession. The workers are now complaining they haven’t received the benefits they were promised, but Van Bockstael says it was considered an exemplary move at the time and a model for future relocations, even by local NGOs.

Critics of the KPCS insist that the repressive Mugabe regime benefits from the diamond funds, siphoning off the proceeds to fund the state’s security forces, which continue to engage in human rights abuses. People living in the diamond-producing areas, they add, do not benefit from diamond production in their midst.

Van Bockstael says some critics believe there can only be “satans or saints in the world.” The reality, he stresses, is somewhere in between: that there are huge quantities of diamonds in Zimbabwe, and they will be mined and sold regardless of the circumstances. In this case, he says, the best that can be done is to harness the flow of diamonds from that country and ensure they enter the trade legitimately. Addressing charges that funds are siphoned off, Van Bockstael maintains that “all of the mining companies must provide detailed, transparent accounts of their sales, including taxes and royalties paid to the government. Under Zimbabwe law, mining companies have to pay 15% royalty on the value of diamonds mined, but the investor-friendly laws allow corporate taxes to be deferred until they recoup their capital investment.”

Marange’s 2014 diamond production is expected to reach nearly 17 million carats, valued at $53.10 per carat, the lowest of any major producer except Australia. (The two other mining operations in Zimbabwe, River Ranch and Rio Tinto’s Murowa, were not affected by KPCS sanctions.) According to KPCS figures, a significant percentage of Marange production consists of larger goods up to five carats, but only 8% of the output is of gem quality. An additional 8% is called near-gem or “lower rejections,” meaning that only a small percentage of each rough stone can be polished into a diamond usable in jewelry. The remaining 84% are rejections and bort, the industrial diamonds used primarily as abrasives.

In addition, Marange’s gem-quality diamonds usually trade at a discount, because they often have a slightly greenish tint, even in higher colors. This tint makes them difficult to match in jewelry when using stones from multiple sources. Dealers compare them to rough diamonds from Australia’s Argyle mine, which have a brownish cast and similarly trade at a discount. Despite this, Van Bockstael believes that $53 per carat average price could be improved substantially by moving the sales to Antwerp’s more transparent environment.

	Antwerp’s main diamond trading street, Hoveniersstraat, is the new site for much of the Zimbabwe rough diamond sales. Photo by Russell Shor.
More changes to Marange’s production are anticipated. The deposit is vast, covering more than 400 square miles, but the shallow, easily mined areas are nearly depleted and mining companies will have to dig deeper—much deeper—to extract diamonds. Van Bockstael believes that mining operations will consolidate as production costs rise, particularly because the quality is so low.

Marange, he notes, is technically not an alluvial deposit, nor is it a kimberlite pipe. The diamonds originated from an unknown source and were deposited by seawater into a bowl-shaped bed millions of years ago; they now lie under a conglomerate of rock and soil. The Marange diggings are at the northwest rim of this bowl, where the diamonds can be found under a few meters of overburden. The grade of the rim, or reef, is also very high—about two carats per ton. (By contrast, most diamond mines average about one carat per hundred tons.) About 50 miles to the southeast lies the more recently discovered Chimanimani diamond deposit, which geologists have identified as the opposite rim of this bowl. In between, the bowl deepens to some 3,000 feet.

“First, the companies operating the deposit do not have much experience with deep mining,” says Van Bockstael. “Second, it is much, much more expensive.”

During the same week as the first Marange tender, Anjin Investments Ltd. announced it was laying off 25 percent of its 845-strong workforce because of rising costs and stagnating rough diamond prices. The company attributed the rising costs to the transition to underground mining.

Zimbabwe’s ruler, Robert Mugabe, who will turn 90 this year, was re-elected in July 2013 amid charges of election fraud. Still, Van Bockstael believes Zimbabwe has the means to achieve stability and growth in the future, because there is a well-developed professional class managing a number of enterprises (including the mining sector) and an encouragingly independent judiciary and police force. He warns, however, that old vested interests could still work against making Marange more transparent.

“The sales in Antwerp are encouraging, but they are not a done deal,” he says.

The government claimed the December tender of Marange rough a success. The permanent secretary of mines and mining development, Francis Gudyanga, said the trial tender, attended by 115 buyers, “will allow the government of Zimbabwe to fully optimize a second, larger tender of Marange goods in the future.”

The average price of $38.25 per carat for the low-end parcels was well below the run-of-mine average, but Van Bockstael hopes this figure will increase substantially as goods more representative of the production are offered for sale in the future.

The second Antwerp tender, held Feb. 12–19, consisted of 960,000 run-of-mine from six companies mining the Marange area and realized $70 million, or about $72.90 per carat, substantially above the average price of goods coming from that area. Some 167 companies participated, according to Zimbabwe’s news media. Nevertheless, Secretary Gudyanga stressed that some goods would continue to be tendered in Zimbabwe. @chapter:49 @chapter:3 @chapter:49


# Publication Year: 2015
# Title: Books: Exotic Gems, Volume 3
# Abstract: By Renee Newman, softcover, 136 pp., publ. by International Jewelry Publications, Los Angeles, 2014, US$19.95.

	Renee Newman has created a niche for herself writing guides on different gem materials. Each one has been fact-filled and extremely useful as a buying guide for the general public and gem industry professionals alike. Exotic Gems, Volume 3: How to Identify, Evaluate, Select and Care for Matrix Opal, Fire Agate, Blue Chalcedony, Rubellite Indicolite, Paraíba and Other Tourmalines is the latest book in her Exotic Gems series.

	“Exotic gems” are defined by the author and Merriam-Webster’s Dictionary as “gems that are of foreign origin and/or strikingly, excitingly or mysteriously different or unusual.” The gems Newman discusses in this volume are certainly all of the above, and designers are using increasingly unusual materials to fabricate unique pieces of jewelry that reflect the individuality of their clients.

	The book begins with a helpful chapter that describes pricing factors and explains why a particular gem is priced the way it is. With the use of excellent photographs, the value factors for different cuts and saturations are pictured in great depth to help explain the variances in price. Comparisons like this are mentioned throughout the book relative to each gem discussed, each with pictures to reinforce the concept.

	Each gem type is described and discussed in its own chapter. In the case of tourmaline, there is a general chapter on the group, where the major species are listed along with their (complex) chemical formulas. Subsequent chapters are devoted to the various colors of tourmaline, where the proper terminology (e.g., verdelite for green, indicolite for blue) is clarified. A photographic journal of sorts, with captions and tips by master cutter John Bradshaw of Coast-to-Coast Gems, is included so that the importance of the rough’s orientation and the cutting process are properly understood.  Terminology of the different colors of tourmaline (i.e. verdelite for green, indicolite for blue) is discussed and clarified. Following chapters on Paraíba and other copper tourmalines are meticulous descriptions of the history and sources of blue to green tourmalines; pink and red tourmalines; yellow, orange, and brown tourmalines; and multicolored tourmalines (including bi- and parti-color and phenomenal varieties). Tips on evaluation and care are given for each color group. It is truly amazing how much valuable information has been condensed into such an easy format.

	The chapter on blue chalcedony contains identification information, accompanied by many photos that exhibit beautiful designs using this unsung gem. Geographic localities follow and include Malawi; Namibia; Indonesia; Mexico; Washington, Montana, California, and Oregon in the United States; and British Columbia in Canada. Assessing the quality of blue chalcedony is discussed, covering hue, tone, saturation, transparency, uniformity of color, clarity, cut quality, and sometimes size and locality. Stability and treatments are listed, followed by a section on care of the material.

	Lovers of the elusive fire agate will be pleased to find an informative chapter on this gem. History, deposits, and price factors precede an excellent section on the cutting of this material. Photos and captions by master cutter Ryszard Krukowski of Fire Agate Art Studio explain exactly why so much expertise on the part of the lapidary is required to bring out the magic in the material. Tips on care of the finished product follow.

	Matrix opal is the last gem addressed in this guide. Newman explores Queensland boulder, Yowah and Koroit, Andamooka, Mexican, and Honduran opal. The type and amount of material within matrix can dictate enormous differences in price. Generally, Queensland boulder opal commands higher prices than other types of matrix opal so locality can make a difference. The amount or absence of play-of-color, and the type of background the opal is viewed against, can also influence value significantly. Generally, the dark and black body tones are the most prized, because those colors provide a greater contrast to the play-of-color.

	One of the most noteworthy aspects of Newman’s many gem-related books is her use of photographs to illustrate quality and showcase modern designs that effectively and beautifully utilize the materials. Details on locality, treatment of material, and care tips are always well researched.

Exotic Gems, Vol. 3 belongs in the library of gem and jewelry appraisers as a quick and easy reference to the relative value factors of the stones discussed, and is also relevant for those who are lovers of unusual gem materials. @chapter:23 @chapter:2 @chapter:23


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Appreciation for Art, Antiques Leads to Love of Jewelry
# Abstract: April Matteini earned her GIA Graduate Gemologist diploma in 2000. Courtesy of April Matteini.

	April Matteini’s passion for the decorative arts has propelled her from European museums to Miami showrooms.

	Matteini, the regional director for Skinner, Inc. in Florida, says her love of art and antiques took hold at an early age, so she studied furniture, paintings, sculpture, and silver in Florence, Italy after earning her Bachelor of Fine Arts from St. Lawrence University in New York.

	Her skills in circa dating and cataloging paved the way to her first job with Skinner, Inc. in Boston, where she cataloged antique and estate jewelry for four annual auctions. Next, she joined the Northeastern powerhouse J & SS DeYoung, a fifth-generation family firm specializing in rare, unique jewelry and gemstones.

	“Handling so many incredible pieces was what sparked my love for diamonds and gemstones – I knew then I wanted to earn a Graduate Gemologist (GG) diploma to make those foundations stronger and enhance my career opportunities,” says Matteini, a Massachusetts native.

	She found a kindred spirit in Joe Samuel, a former member of the GIA Board of Governors, as she began to work toward her GG diploma to take her career “to a higher level.”

	“I was mentored by Mr. Samuel, who was incredibly supportive and encouraged my gemological studies,” she says. “I was a distance education student before the Internet, and he encouraged me to attend lab classes in New York and Boston, and use all of the office laboratory equipment for my homework.”

	Though “diamond grading and its terminology felt like mastering a new language,” Matteini persisted and earned her GG diploma in 2000. She soon saw that the benefits of her education extended further than she expected.

	“I find GIA is not only an industry standard, but recognized by consumers as a name they can trust,” she says.

	Matteini and her family – her husband, Francesco, and their two children – relocated to South Florida in 2005, and the self-avowed “New Englander at heart” discovered that as an independent appraiser, her new clients’ jewelry collections had a different flair.

	“Miami is a vibrant, multicultural city,” she says. “Big, colorful, statement pieces are everywhere. I don’t see as much small, antique jewelry in Miami as in the Northeast. That said, big or small, I find the same sentimental attachment and love of jewelry everywhere.”

	Matteini embraced the “fantastic weather” and big personality of her new home, and joined her local GIA Alumni chapter. In 2011, she began her tenure as president of the GIA Alumni of South Florida.

	The group has “joined forces” with the local AGS Guild, she says, and together they “form one organization that serves local industry professionals with high-level educational meetings and networking events.” Recently, for example, they brought Cigdem Lule and Stuart Robertson – fellow GG’s, and experts from GemWorld – from Chicago to present the group with their workshops on corundum and cultured pearls treatments and pricing.

	“Continuing education is the best way to ensure a competitive edge in this industry – access to current information is critical,” Matteini stresses. “Beyond classroom education, the relationships that develop from a GIA affiliation are an invaluable asset for building a successful business.”

	In addition to increasing professional development opportunities for GIA and AGS alumni in her area and her work with Skinner, she still enjoys the beauty and mystique that drew her to jewelry appraisal in the first place.

	Not long ago, a client brought her entire jewelry collection for Matteini to appraise, including a flea-market cuff bracelet that was “just along for the ride.”

	The $25 bracelet turned out to be a valuable piece signed by Art Smith, a leading mid-20th century modernist jeweler. It was very similar to a bracelet on the cover of the Brooklyn Museum’s retrospective exhibit on the New York City-based jeweler, and Matteini says the piece was “quite a nice return on her (client’s) investment.”

	This kind of find reminds Matteini of a key reason she pursued a career in antique and estate jewelry in the first place.

	“I have a tremendous appreciation for diamonds and gemstones, but I still love a jewelry mystery,” Matteini says. “If I can successfully research a hallmark or identify a signature for a client and let them know that their jewelry is not just special to them, but it’s valuable as well – I love that.”

	South Florida Alumni Chapter members with recent presenters, and fellow Graduate Gemologists, Cigdem Lule and Stuart Robertson of Gem World. (Back row: Luke Moorman, John Moorman; Front row: Debra LeVasseur, Joe Kientzy, Amy Walter, April Matteini, Cigdem Lule, Stuart Robertson) Courtesy of April Matteini. @chapter:45 @chapter:2 @chapter:45


# Publication Year: 2023
# Title: Ancient Script-Like Serpentine in Brown Peridot
# Abstract: Thread-like inclusions of serpentine resembling an ancient text. Photomicrograph by Le Ngoc Nang; field of view 2.50 mm.
Peridot is a green olivine often characterized by “lily pad” inclusions and high birefringence causing a doubling effect. Apart from its familiar green hue, peridot can also possess a brown color, though these gems receive little attention.
Recently, the author found a xenocryst of peridot from southeast Vietnam that appeared black in daylight and brown through a transmitted light source. Standard gemological testing of a cabochon (2.51 ct) and two faceted stones (2.35 and 4.65 ct) that were cut from this xenocryst indicated peridot, but the specific gravity and refractive index gave higher results than the values for green peridot. Finally, the Raman spectra confirmed the identification as peridot.
Microscopic examination did not reveal any typical “lily pad” inclusions. Instead, there were innumerable fascinating thread-like inclusions (see above). Some formed closed loops with round, oval, and distorted shapes measuring from a few nanometers to a millimeter. Others stretched or twisted together like tangled threads up to 2 mm long. The display was reminiscent of an ancient script. Micro-Raman spectral analysis revealed these thread-like inclusions were serpentine.
Examination of this brown peridot revealed an unexpected inclusion scene quite different from the common inclusions found in green peridot. @chapter:6 @chapter:0 @chapter:6


# Publication Year: 2022
# Title: Brilliance Exhibit at the Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County
# Abstract: Figure 1. Inside the vault room of the Brilliance: The Art and Science of Rare Jewels exhibit. Photo courtesy of the Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County.
A special exhibit of rare gems and minerals, entitled Brilliance: The Art and Science of Rare Jewels, was recently displayed at the Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County. The exhibit was available for viewing from December 8, 2021, through February 21, 2022, in the Gem Vault in the museum’s Gem and Mineral Hall (figure 1). Over one hundred spectacular objects—necklaces, bracelets, rings, earrings, and unmounted gems (many the creations of master jewelry designer Robert Procop)—were on display along with mineral specimens from the museum’s collection. Colorless and fancy-color diamonds, rubies, sapphires, emeralds, as well as color-change and asteriated gems and other spectacular specimens, were represented (figures 2 and 3). By allowing the public to view and appreciate these unique treasures, this museum event provided an understanding of how gems and minerals are used today in a variety of fields, from jewelry design to scientific research. Crystals of gem minerals represent products of some optimum conditions for natural mineral formation, and the study of rough and faceted gems is increasingly used by scientists today to better understand Earth’s history.

Figure 2. Left: The 46.39 ct Fancy blue Celeste diamond and a 100.92 ct colorless diamond were but two of the exquisite gems on display at the Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County. Right: This 108.03 ct blue sapphire from Sri Lanka is exceptional in terms of its clarity, color, and size. Photos courtesy of the Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County; courtesy of Robert Procop.

Figure 3. The 79.39 ct Royal Pink sapphire is, according to the designer, the largest vivid natural pink sapphire in the world. Courtesy of Robert Procop. @chapter:23 @chapter:2 @chapter:23


# Publication Year: 2020
# Title: A New Type of Rutilated Quartz Composite Product
# Abstract: Figure 1. Photos of the rutilated quartz taken in different viewing directions (top view on the left and side view on the right) showed that the sphere was half colorless and half brown. Photos by Shu-Hong Lin.
Rutilated quartz, which refers to natural quartz with rutile needle inclusions, is very popular in Taiwan’s mineral market. Merchants carve rutilated quartz into spheres rather than pendants or cabochons to get higher prices. The value of such spheres depends on the size of quartz as well as the abundance or appearance of its rutile crystals. Since large and well-formed rutilated quartz is quite rare, it is possible to make those of lower quality into doublets with top covers of glass or synthetic quartz.

Figure 2. The microscopic image of the brown part of the rutilated quartz sphere showed yellow, brown, and black mineral particles with an abundance of bubbles. Photomicrograph by Shu-Hong Lin.
Recently, a rutilated quartz sphere was sent to Taiwan Union Lab of Gem Research (TULAB) for certification service. Half of the sphere was colorless and transparent, while the other half was brown and semitranslucent (figure 1). The supplier had informed the client that it was a rutilated quartz polished into a sphere together with its host rock in order to retain the maximum size and the striking rutile inclusions. The colorless and brown parts had refractive indices of 1.54 and 1.55, respectively, and the fluorescence was inert under an ultraviolet lamp. Microscopic observation revealed that the brown part contained yellow, brown, and black mineral particles with a large number of bubbles (figure 2). The specific gravity was 2.35, which is much lower than the specific gravity of quartz. To further confirm the material of the sphere, the colorless and brown parts were analyzed with a Raman spectrometer. The results showed that the former was quartz, and the latter was mainly composed of epoxy resin and quartz (figure 3).

Figure 3. Stacked Raman spectra of the rutilated quartz sphere and epoxy resin revealed that the colorless part (A) was quartz (463 cm–1) and the brown part (B) was mainly composed of epoxy resin (peaks at 637, 822, 1113, 1182, and 1606 cm–1) and quartz. The spectra are baseline-corrected and normalized.
After a series of gemological tests, we concluded that this sphere could be defined as a new type of doublet or composite material of rutilated quartz, in which the brown part mistaken for host rock was in fact epoxy resin mixed with mineral powders. Due to the increasing demand for rutilated quartz spheres in Taiwan, this composite material may not be merely an isolated case. @chapter:26 @chapter:0 @chapter:26


# Publication Year: 2016
# Title: Unusual Growth Zoning in Beryl
# Abstract: Figure 1. This aquamarine, shown in plane-polarized light, has a dramatic secondary growth layer that is much more saturated in color than the crystal’s primary growth. Photomicrograph by Nathan Renfro; field of view 2.45 mm.

	An aquamarine crystal from Pakistan recently examined by the authors showed a rather dramatic inclusion scene in which several cracks were lined with a vivid blue coloration. We theorize that this relatively pale blue aquamarine developed cracks while in the growth environment. Subsequently, the nutrient solution may have shifted out of equilibrium with the beryl crystal, resulting in a relatively quick dissolution along the cracks. After some period of time, there appears to have been a modification of the nutrient solution and/or growth conditions in which precipitation of beryl became favorable once again. This second generation of growth had a distinctly different trace element composition, resulting in a strongly saturated blue coloration (figure 1) that made the boundary between the primary and secondary growth layers readily apparent (for previously documented examples of second-generation growth, see E. J. Gübelin and J. I. Koivula, Photoatlas of Inclusions in Gemstones, Vol. 2, Opinio Verlag, Basel, Switzerland, 2005, pp. 249–250). Chemical analysis by laser ablation–inductively coupled plasma–mass spectrometry (LA-ICP-MS) confirmed that both zones were in fact beryl and revealed elevated levels of iron in the dark blue layers, which accounts for their darker color (G.R. Rossman, “Color in gems: The new technologies,” Summer 1981 G&G, pp. 60–71). The trace elements Na, Mg, Sc, Ti, V, and Mn were also elevated in the dark blue areas. This dramatic change in chemical composition further supports our theory that there was a significant modification of the nutrient solution in the crystal’s growth environment. This striking specimen shows how complex and dynamic the “birthplaces” of gems can be. @chapter:24 @chapter:0 @chapter:24


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Robert Shipley Jr. (1912–1982)
# Abstract: Prior to the 1930s, there were no instruments designed specifically for gem and jewelry professionals. Robert Shipley Jr., the elder son of GIA’s founder, changed all that with his genius for innovation.

Whereas the elder Shipley possessed the charisma of a born salesman, Shipley Jr. was a mercurial tinkerer who preferred to work behind the scenes in the laboratory. He left Kansas to join his father at the fledgling GIA in Los Angeles in 1933, quickly demonstrating his talent for lab work and instrument technology. He specialized in adapting existing optical instruments to the needs of the gemologist. Some of his early achievements included a 10× eye loupe, the first gem-testing polariscope, and darkfield illumination for examining gemstone inclusions.

In 1938 Shipley Jr. obtained GIA’s first patent, for a microscope that combined darkfield illumination with binocular magnification. Other instruments he developed included a pocket refractometer and a gemological polarizing microscope.

Shipley Jr. left GIA to serve in World War II. After the war, he founded an instrument manufacturing company that eventually became the GIA’s gem instruments division. He left the field of gemology and later formed a research laboratory that developed equipment for the fruit industry. @chapter:21 @chapter:1 @chapter:21


# Publication Year: 2022
# Title: Puzzle-Like Gemstone Designs
# Abstract: Figure 1. Trays of Steve Walters’s unique gemstone carvings displayed at the 2022 AGTA show in Tucson. Photo by Tao Hsu; courtesy of Rare Earth Mining Co.
At the AGTA show, Rare Earth Mining Co. (Trumbull, Connecticut) offered a vast array of fine and unusual gem materials unavailable anywhere else in the trade. Among the opalized wood, Tiffany stone, honeycomb petrified wood, and many other varieties was one of the most expansive Steve Walters collections seen at Tucson (figure 1).
While Walters himself did not attend the show this year, Rare Earth Mining Co. was eager to detail his work for us. A master gemstone carver specializing in one-of-a-kind gemstone designs in Utah, Walters has been in the business for more than 50 years. He creates his carvings for jewelry designers, to help them achieve a unique look.
Walters’s designs feature a perfect mix of traditional and exotic gemstones, expertly paired and carved to create a dramatic shape and color story. All done by hand, Walters uses titanium to bridge together and inlay the different gemstones.
Among the wide variety of gemstones used in Walters’s carvings were onyx; chrysocolla; tourmalinated and rutilated quartz; amethyst, citrine, and ametrine with striking color zones; rock crystal quartz backed with onyx and gold foil; lapis lazuli; various agates; Australian and pink opals; and meteorite. Every piece is finished with a mother-of-pearl backing with his signature (figure 2), ready to be set into a showstopping piece of jewelry.

Figure 2. Left: This citrine “flame” top is connected to a chrysoprase “main body.” Next to the chrysoprase is a portion made of a black chalcedony backing, covered by 24K gold leaf and capped by rock crystal quartz. The piece is completed with a freeform ametrine. Right: All pieces have a mother-of-pearl backing with Steve Walters’s signature. Photos by Kevin Schumacher. @chapter:28 @chapter:2 @chapter:28


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Chapter Events Offer In-Depth, Exciting Experiences
# Abstract: Guests at GIA's reception at AGS Conclave celebrate the American Gem Society's 80th Anniversary.

                      Alumni across the world continue to amaze me with their commitment to excellence. It is so rewarding to hear from our members: excited words shared by new alumni who are thrilled with their new affiliation; chapter leaders who regularly extend themselves for the benefit of their members; or “lost” alumni who reach out to the Alumni office to reconnect after 10, 20 or even 30 years. One message is consistent: their GIA education experience has impacted their life and they want to know how they can discover and learn even more.

My answer remains a simple constant: Stay connected. Stay informed. GIA delivers public and continuing education opportunities regularly to alumni members, but please don’t forget to take notice of the work of our chapters. Exciting things are happening for our alumni around the world.

Since our last Alum Connect edition in March 2014, the alumni office is pleased to report:

Big GIA Alumni Association numbers: It’s time to celebrate!

		Active members: 99,000 plus

		Chapters worldwide: 70

		Chapters events so far this year: 74

Alumni Gathering at AGS Conclave: More than 250 alumni and industry dignitaries attended an event to celebrate our members and the American Gem Society’s 80th Anniversary.

GIA in New York: Many alumni and local chapter leaders attended an opening reception of the new GIA lab and campus location in the International Gem Tower in New York.

	Members of the Manhattan Chapter – Gail Brett Levine, secretary/treasurer;
	Irma Maria Davidson; Merle S. Koblenz, president; Delphine Leblanc; and
	Victor Hugo Garcia, vice president – at GIA’s new location in New York.

Baselworld, Hong Kong and JCK Las Vegas shows provided great opportunities for reunions, including meeting up with many alumni members and chapter leaders from Brazil, Canada, China, France, Germany, Italy, London, Peru, South Africa, Switzerland and the U.S.

Here’s some of the CHAPTER highlight news and events that have occurred in the last few months:

Spain – our newest chapter! – hosted a very successful first event, meeting at Mineralia 2014 exhibition in Seville, followed by a social.

	André Neves Bento, president of the Spain chapter, left, and Adolfo de Basilio at
	the chapter’s first event in Seville.

  Chapter milestones  : A round of applause to  Shanghai  for 25 years as a  registered society in perfect time to re-launch chapter activity.  Washington, D.C.  celebrates 30 years!

		Social gatherings brought  Houston , Malaysia,  Metro-Phoenix  and Toronto membe  rs together. Students from Shanghai joined alumni from   Hong Kong   at a dinner hosted during the Changsha Show in China.

  Safety and security   was presented by FBI and LA police department  detectives to the  Los Angeles  chapter.

  Author Renee Newman   presented a lecture o n “Exotic Gems” at the Golden Gate , Illinois/Indiana   and Wisconsin chapters.

Auction and jewelry history presentations at three chapters included: Alexander Eblen, from Leslie Hindman Auctioneers, at Minnesota -Twin Cities; a special preview at Heritage Auction Galleries for Los Angeles members; and Dr. Brenda Forman presented on “17th Century Diamonds and Pearls” at Washington, D.C.

Talks on minerals and gem mining history brought the gemological world together: John Rhoads on North America Gems and Minerals for Colorado, Mile High and Walter Goetz on the famous Montgomery Co. Gold Mining History in Washington, D.C. Members of the North Texas chapter were struck by the beauty of Dr. Rob Lavinsky’s gallery of exceptional minerals at their open house hosted at Arkenstone.

Watches, history, education and pricing were topics presented by experts Ken Specht, creator of the Specht Sheet, and Ed Faber, of Faber Galleries, in  Las Vegas  and Manhattan, respectively.

Demand for colored gemstone knowledge is up. AGTA’s CEO Doug Hucker presented   “The Colored Gemstone Revolution”   to the  Wisconsin  and St. Louis chapters. Pennsyl vania/Delaware Valley and South Flor ida hosted Adam Graham, CEO of Erica Courtney Jewelry, to talk on "Selling Color." Seattle, London, Golden Gate  and Ohio heard from gemstone experts and traders on the topics of mine to market, specialty gems and market sources  in Sri Lanka and East Africa.

Gemology, research and “hands-on” sessions were experienced during a lab visit in Manhattan, a gem identification challenge in Colorado, and a synthetic and treated diamond event in Michigan.

Jewelry design, lapidary and gemstone photography events featured jewelry designer Etienne Perret in San Diego; the art of gemstone carving in Washington, D.C.; a lapidary school visit by Middle Tennessee; and capturing the beauty behind the lens by GIA’s Robert Weldon in Metro-Phoenix.

Chapter travel – you’re invited!

The Malaysia chapter is going to Myanmar (formerly known as Burma) this fall and all global alumni are welcome to go exploring with them! This second International Alumni Gathering trip planned by the chapter encourages worldwide members to join. All interested parties should contact the Malaysia Chapter for more details, information or to let them know you are interested in joining. Act quickly, space is limited.

Mexico City chapter leaves this week for its latest Gemstone Safari excursion to the Sea of Cortez to visit pearl farms and experience the harvest.

Alumni News – take note!

		Join us to “Party at the GIA Gem Mine: Down Under” at the annual Tucson reunion, dinner dance and alumni auction to support the Alumni Endowment Fund on Feb. 6, 2015. Consider donating something related to this fun theme. For further donation information and to download a form, visit our web page.

I hope all of you who read this report are inspired by the committed alumni who are creating these opportunities for their fellow alumni members. And if you haven’t done so yet – get involved! To all our chapter volunteers and alumni members across the globe who plan and attend these continuing education opportunities, thank you. It’s your actions that drive our Alumni Association’s success. @chapter:47 @chapter:3 @chapter:47


# Publication Year: 2005
# Title: Mt. Mica: A Renaissance in Maine’s Gem Tourmaline Production
# Abstract: The Mt. Mica area in southwestern Maine has been mined for tourmaline and other pegmatite gems since the 1820s. Most tourmaline production occurred during the late 1800s to the 1910s, with occasional finds made from the 1960s to 1990s. Since May 2004, a new mining venture has produced gem- and specimen-quality tourmaline in a variety of colors. The faceted stones typically are yellowish green to greenish blue, although pink and bicolored or tricolored stones have been cut. Their gemological properties are typical for gem tourmaline. Chemical analysis shows that the tourmaline mined from pockets at Mt. Mica is mostly elbaite, with lesser amounts of schorl, rossmanite, and foitite. @chapter:30 @chapter:0 @chapter:30


# Publication Year: 1987
# Title: Fall 1987 Gem News International
# Abstract: Diamonds
            "Filled" Diamonds
            De Beers Botswana
            Large Diamond Auctioned
Colored Stones
            Iridescent Andradite Garnets
            Plasticized Emeralds
            Kunzite from Sri Lanka
            "Rainbow Moonstones" are Labradorite
            Phenomenal Quartz from Brazil
            Included Quartz from Mexico
            New Ruby Locality in Afghanistan
            Heat-Treated Pink Sapphires
            New Locality for Topaz
            Treated Cat's-Eye Zircons
Announcements
            1988 Tucson Gem & Mineral Show
            AIGS Announces Quarterly Newsletter

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:4 @chapter:0 @chapter:4


# Publication Year: 2020
# Title: Graphitic Cavities on Diamond
# Abstract: The laser cavities on the star facet (left) and in reflected light (right). Photomicrographs by Troy Ardon; field of view 1.5 mm.
An atypical series of graphitized cavities was recently observed on a star facet (see above, left) of a 0.45 ct near-colorless round brilliant diamond. The presence of graphite was confirmed with Raman spectroscopy. The observed residue surrounding the craters could have been the result of a lasering process.
Laser sawing is now the standard way to shape rough into blocked shapes for brillianteering and polishing, and laser drilling is used to treat internal inclusions. The laser marks were not the typical oscillating lines of manufacturing remnants. These remnants on extra facets or natural surfaces are usually left behind for a variety of reasons such as saving weight. Neither was there an associated internal inclusion, which one would expect if this were a treatment, though a shallow inclusion could have been completely removed by this lasering. The only other internal inclusion was a dark brown crystal on the opposite side of the table, which had not been treated by lasering.
Reflected light (see above, right) revealed a small “island” of the original facet left behind, evidence that many craters in close proximity joined together to form one larger cavity. This is also the reason it is suspected that this cavity system was caused by a laser as opposed to another thermal process, such as a jeweler’s torch. Something like a torch is unlikely to have left an intact section of the facet in the center of a burnt-out cavity. The fact that there were many connected craters does make these cavities seem intentional, though the purpose is not obvious. @chapter:36 @chapter:1 @chapter:36


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Series of Articles on Rubies from Mozambique
# Abstract: View Gallery

Rubies from Montepuez, in northern Mozambique, have dominated the Thai market, the world’s major ruby trading center, since the discovery of this deposit in the spring of 2009. GIA has engaged in an extensive study of this material, culminating in October 2013 with the Bangkok laboratory’s most recent paper, “Rubies from the Montepuez Area.”

These specimens are quite different from those traditionally encountered in the market, such as the marble-type rubies from Mogok and Mong Hsu, whose strong fluorescent aspect is related to low iron content, or basalt-related rubies from Thailand and Cambodia, known for their low fluorescence due to higher iron content. Indeed, the new deposit in Montepuez is an amphibole-related deposit similar to those near Winza (Tanzania), M’Sawize (Mozambique), and probably the deposit near Didy (Madagascar), three other ruby deposits discovered fairly recently in Africa.

Amphibole-type rubies generally have higher iron content than those found in marble-related deposits  and lower iron content than those from basalt-related deposits. These nontraditional amphibole-type metamorphic stones fill the gap, in terms of chemical composition and appearance, between the highly fluorescent marble-type rubies and the weakly fluorescent basalt-related rubies familiar within the trade.

For gemologists, the fact that the rubies from Montepuez come from an amphibole-related deposit is fascinating. That’s because the combination of the inclusion scene, the chemical fingerprint, and the spectra associated with these stones usually distinguishes them  from rubies mined from marble- or basalt-related deposits.

Below are links to publications by GIA gemologists (in chronological order, starting with the most recent) about ruby mining in Mozambique, providing the most complete, up-to-date information on the subject.

GEMFIELDS INAUGURAL ROUGH RUBY AUCTION IN SINGAPORE
By A. Lucas, V. Pardieu
Released July 17, 2014
In June 2014, Gemfields held its first auction of rough ruby from Mozambique. GIA field gemologists went behind the scenes of this groundbreaking event for an insider’s look at the rough gemstone auction world.
Learn More

RUBIES FROM THE MONTEPUEZ AREA
By V. Pardieu, S. Sangsawong, J. Muyal, B. Chauviré, L. Massi, and N. Sturman
Released Oct. 15, 2013
In October 2013, GIA’s Bangkok lab produced a study of the samples collected during the September 2012 expedition. The study featured FTIR and UV-Vis spectra and chemical analysis of one reference sample from each of the four main ruby mining sites in the area. The study also included numerous inclusion photos that will enable the gemologist to more easily identify rubies from Montepuez.
Learn More

UPDATE ON RUBY MINING AND TRADING IN NORTHERN MOZAMBIQUE
By V. Pardieu and B. Chauviré
Published in Winter 2012 Gems & Gemology, Gem News International, pp. 309–311
In 2011, Gemfields acquired the ruby-producing area near Montepuez and began a major mining project. In the summer of 2012, a team of GIA gemologists visited the area to collect samples from the different mining sites for the GIA reference collection.
Learn More

FAPFH/GFF TREATED RUBY FROM MOZAMBIQUE: A PRELIMINARY REPORT
By V. Pardieu, N. Sturman, S. Saesaew, G. Du Toit and K. Thirangoon
Released May 11, 2010
During the spring of 2010, GIA gemologists began collaborating with a Thai gemstone burner who was working on the heat treatment of Mozambique rubies using borax additives. A very similar treatment had been used for about 20 years on Mong Hsu rubies.
Learn More

UPDATE ON RUBIES FROM MOZAMBIQUE
By V. Pardieu, P. Lomthong, J.B. Senoble, L.P. Bryl, and S. Jacquat
Published in Winter 2009 Gems & Gemology, Gem News International, pp. 302–303
A discussion of the November 2009 field expedition to M’sawize, Mozambique, within the Niassa National Reserve, to obtain ruby samples for the GIA research collection.
Learn More

EXPEDITION REPORT TO RUBY MINING SITES IN NORTHERN MOZAMBIQUE
By V. Pardieu, S. Jacquat, J.B. Senoble, L.P. Bryl, R.W. Hughes, and M. Smith
Updated Dec. 23, 2009
In 2009, GIA’s Bangkok lab led three field expeditions to the ruby deposits of Mozambique. During the second expedition, in November 2009, Vincent Pardieu was able to visit the deposit near M’Sawize village in the Niassa province. Finally, in December 2009, we were able to briefly visit the deposit near Montepuez and collect samples for the GIA reference collection.
Learn More

PRELIMINARY OBSERVATIONS ON NEW RUBIES FROM MOZAMBIQUE
By S. McClure and J. Koivula
Published in Fall 2009 Gems & Gemology, Gem News International, pp. 224–225
Results of gemological testing and EDXRF spectroscopy on 24 ruby specimens, received in two separate submissions, reportedly from several different deposits in Mozambique.
Learn More

RUBIES FROM THE NIASSA AND CABO DELGADO REGIONS OF NORTHERN MOZAMBIQUE
By V. Pardieu, J. Thanachakaphad, S. Jacquat, J.B. Senoble, and L.P. Bryl
Updated April 16, 2009
In early 2009, GIA's Bangkok lab released a preliminary study on Niassa province rubies, based on samples (reportedly from Niassa) collected in Chanthaburi, Thailand. In May 2009, less than a year after the arrival of rubies from Niassa on the market, a second important deposit was discovered near the city of Montepuez, in the neighboring province of Cabo Delgado. Mining activity rapidly increased, and rubies from Mozambique (unheated, heated or filled with lead glass) became very common in trading centers such as Thailand, as well as the U.S. and the rest of the world.
Learn More @chapter:14 @chapter:0 @chapter:14


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Sapphire Care and Cleaning Guide
# Abstract: Corundum in all colors is a highly durable gemstone for use in jewelry. - Courtesy Pauling Blue Fire Diamonds, Carlsbad, California

Hardness and toughness
Gem and mineral hardness is measured on the Mohs scale. The numbers are based on the relative ease or difficulty with which one mineral can be scratched by another. But the Mohs scale is deceptive. The steps between the minerals are not evenly spaced. For example, diamond is only one number away, but it’s many times harder than gems in the corundum family.

Corundum (ruby and sapphire) is relatively hard—9 on the Mohs scale. It has excellent toughness and no cleavage, which is a tendency to break when struck. This makes it a great choice for rings and other mountings subject to daily wear.

	Sapphire ranks 9 on the Mohs hardness scale.

Stability
Corundum is stable under normal wearing conditions, which means it’s resistant to the effects of heat, light, and common chemicals. Boric acid powder will etch the surface of even untreated stones. Fracture-filled, cavity-filled, and dyed stones can be damaged by even mild acids like lemon juice.

Cleaning
Warm, soapy water is always safe. Ultrasonic and steam cleaners are usually safe for untreated, heat-treated, and lattice diffusion treated stones. Fracture-filled, cavity-filled, or dyed material should only be cleaned with a damp cloth.

Treatment and durability considerations
Untreated and even heat-treated sapphire is very durable.

Stones that have undergone lattice diffusion treatment have varying degrees of treated-color penetration. In some stones, the treated color penetrates the entire stone, while in others there’s very shallow penetration. Surface damage or re-cutting can remove the color from lattice diffusion treated stones with shallow color penetration.

Fracture-filled stones have surface-reaching fractures filled primarily with high-lead content glass.  The filler can be damaged through contact with a variety of chemicals. Even relatively mild substances like lemon juice can cause alteration of high-lead content glass.

The number of sapphires filled with high-lead content glass is much lower than the number of rubies. In some cases, the amount of glass filler in a sapphire can be quite extensive. Sapphires treated this way require greater care than untreated, heat-treated, or lattice diffusion treated sapphire. @chapter:18 @chapter:1 @chapter:18


# Publication Year: 2006
# Title: “Paraíba”-Type Copper-Bearing Tourmaline from Brazil, Nigeria, and Mozambique: Chemical Fingerprinting By LA-ICP-MS
# Abstract: Gem-quality bright blue to green “Paraíba”-type Cu-bearing tourmaline is now known from deposits in Africa (Nigeria and Mozambique), in addition to three commercial localities in Brazil (in Paraíba and Rio Grande do Norte States). Stones from these new localities have been mixed into parcels from the original Brazilian Paraíba occurrence. The Nigerian and Mozambique tourmalines that show saturated blue-to-green colors cannot be distinguished from the Brazilian material by standard gemological testing or on the basis of semi-quantitative chemical data (obtained by EDXRF analysis). However, quantitative chemical data obtained by LA-ICP-MS show that tourmalines from the three countries can be differentiated by plotting (Ga+Pb) versus (Cu+Mn), (Cu+Mn) versus the Pb/Be ratio, and Mg-Zn-Pb. In general, the Nigerian tourmalines contained greater amounts of Ga, Ge, and Pb, whereas the Brazilian stones had more Mg, Zn, and Sb. The new Cu-bearing tourmalines from Mozambique showed enriched contents of Be, Sc, Ga, Pb, and Bi, but lacked Mg. @chapter:14 @chapter:0 @chapter:14


# Publication Year: 1987
# Title: Spring 1987 Gem News International
# Abstract: Diamonds
            Cubic Zirconia Coated by Synthetic Diamond?
Tucson 1987
            Amber: Dominican Available in Large Amounts
            Aquamarine: Zambia Source for New Find
            Chalcedony: Very Fine Iris Agates for Sale
            Chrysoberyl: Very Fine Alexandrite Available
            Diamond: Major White and Colored on Display
            Euclase: Irradiation Produces Pale Green Color
            Fluorite: Beads Sold as “Multi-Color Amethyst”
            Garnet: Green Grossular Now Scarce
            Kornerupine: Cat’s-eyes Sold as Quartz
            Moonstone: “Rainbow” Variety from India
            Opal: Very Fine Australian Black
            Peridot: Available from New Localities
            Quartz: Remarkable African Specimen on Display
            Ruby: New Find of Gem-Quality Reported
            Sapphire: Large Amounts of Intense Pink Seen
            Scapolite: Large Faceted Intense Reddish Purple
            Spodumene: Specimens Offered as “Sheen Phenakite”
            Turquoise: Substitute Imported from Germany
            Zircon: Virtually Every Color Available

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:21 @chapter:0 @chapter:21


# Publication Year: 2023
# Title: The history of gemstones in Chanthaburi_20
# Abstract: It is said that in Chanthaburi, gemstone deposits are found along the mountainsides and spread across various districts such as Mueang District, Tha Mai District, Khao Ploy Waen, Khao Sa Kaeo, and Bang Kacha. These areas mostly yield blue, green, and yellow gemstones. In Khlung District, Makham District, along the Khao Srabap range, and in Ban Bo Weru, blue and red gemstones can be found. @chapter:40 @chapter:2 @chapter:40


# Publication Year: 2023
# Title: Heated Purplish Pink Sapphire from Ilakaka (Madagascar) with Colored Monazite Inclusions
# Abstract: Figure 1. A 3.02 ct heated purplish pink sapphire measuring 9.57 × 7.74 × 4.55 mm. Photo by Ugo Hennebois.
The Laboratoire Français de Gemmologie (LFG) received a 3.02 ct purplish pink sapphire (figure 1) for identification. Under the microscope, zircon and monazite inclusions (figure 2) along with tubes (figure 3) were observed. This inclusion scene was characteristic of similarly colored sapphires from Ilakaka, Madagascar (W. Wang et al., “The effects of heat treatment on zircon inclusions in Madagascar sapphires,” Summer 2006 G&G, pp. 134–150; S. Saeseaw et al., “Low-temperature heat treatment of pink sapphires from Ilakaka, Madagascar,” Winter 2020 G&G, pp. 448–457). No indication of heating was observed. Moreover, the monazite inclusions were orange-brown. It was previously observed that monazite inclusions in pink sapphires turn colorless when heated above 600°C (see again Saeseaw et al., 2020).

Figure 2. A series of colorless zircon inclusions and orange-brown monazite inclusions in the heated purplish pink sapphire. Photomicrograph by Ugo Hennebois; field of view 1.5 mm.

Figure 3. Unaltered tubes in the heated purplish pink sapphire. Photomicrograph by Ugo Hennebois; field of view 2 mm.
Using Raman spectroscopy, the full width at half maximum (FWHM) of the band around 1010 cm–1 due to anti-symmetric stretching vibration SiO4 in the zircon structure and the band around 975 cm–1 due to PO4 stretching vibration in the monazite structure can decrease during heating of pink sapphires from Ilakaka (Wang et al., 2006; Saeseaw et al., 2020). The zircon and monazite inclusions were analyzed using a Raman Renishaw inVia spectrometer, with a 514 nm diode-pumped solid-state (DPSS) laser, with about 10 mW laser power on the sample, 50× long working distance objective lens, confocal mode (100 microns entrance slit), 1800 lines/mm grating, and about 1.5 cm–1 spectral resolution. The FWHM of the most intense band of seven monazite inclusions at around 975 cm–1 ranged from 12.7 to 14.2 cm–1, and those of 10 zircon inclusions at around 1010 cm–1 ranged from 6.4 to 7.8 cm–1. Both appeared to be sharper and less variable compared to FWHM in unheated pink sapphires, which present zircon inclusions with FWHM of the main band from 7.1 to 21.7 cm–1 and monazite inclusions with FWHM of the main band from 14.2 to 18.4 cm–1 (Saeseaw et al., 2020; M. Krzemnicki et al., “Zircon inclusions in unheated pink sapphires from Ilakaka, Madagascar: A Raman spectroscopic study,” Proceedings of the Online International Gemmological Conference, 2021, pp. 21–23; S. Karampelas et al., “Détection du traitement thermique à basse température des corindons,” Revue de Gemmologie a.f.g., No. 217, 2022, pp. 4–5).
Unpolarized Fourier-transform infrared spectra in different directions were collected using a Thermo Fisher Magna-IR560 with 4 cm–1 spectral resolution and 500 scans using a diffuse reflectance accessory as beam condenser. The sample presented a band at 3309 cm–1 and a less intense band at 3232 cm–1, which in pink sapphire is considered an indication of heating (Saeseaw et al., 2020). These bands are linked to different forms of titanium associated with hydroxyl defects in corundum (E. Balan, “Theoretical infrared spectra of OH defects in corundum (α-Al2O3),” European Journal of Mineralogy, Vol. 32, No. 5, 2020, pp. 457–467).
In line with previous experiments showing that monazite inclusions can keep their color after heating to 600°C (Saeseaw et al., 2020), the presence of colored monazite inclusions alone cannot serve as evidence that a pink sapphire from Ilakaka is unheated. On the other hand, the presence of colorless monazite inclusions in pink sapphires from Ilakaka could be considered an indication of heat treatment. @chapter:19 @chapter:0 @chapter:19


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Yellow Gemstones: Can You Identify Them?
# Abstract: This 54.29 ct Fancy Intense yellow cushion cut diamond is accented with 67 cts of white diamonds and is set in 18K white gold. Courtesy of Chatila. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA

Sunshine, lemons and a variety of flowers share the color yellow and often evoke feelings of happiness, warmth and optimism. A variety of gemstones also come in shades of yellow, from diamonds to citrine to garnets.
Yellow diamonds are enduring in quality and value and popular set in jewelry. Yet a treasure trove of other yellow gemstones exists at reasonable price points. They can be found in light-toned shades to rich, warm hues.
The most plentiful yellow gemstones in the marketplace are citrine, sapphire, topaz, tourmaline, and transparent opal. Other varieties include yellow andradite garnet, spessartine and Mali garnets, beryl, sphene, zircon, spodumene and transparent varieties of labradorite and orthoclase feldspar. Less abundant or collectible yellow gems include chrysoberyl, sphalerite, apatite and prehnite.
Yellow Gemstone Challenge
Many yellow gemstones can resemble one another in color. Can you see the subtle differences in the yellow gemstone pairs? They appear similar, but are different species.

View Gallery

Yellow Diamonds
Yellow is the most abundant color of natural fancy diamonds, yet they still represent a very small percentage of all diamonds. The first major source of yellow diamonds was found in the late 1860s in Cape Province, South Africa, so in the jewelry trade, these yellow diamonds came to be known as “cape” yellow diamonds.

The cut fancy yellow “cape” diamond, front, is a gift of Safdico USA, Inc. The “cape” yellow diamond hexoctahedron rough, back, is a gift of the Sir Oppenheimer Student Collection. Composite photo by Orasa and Robert Weldon/GIA
“Cape” diamonds, according to the “GIA Diamond Dictionary,” are a Type Ia diamond with a distinct yellow body color that exhibits absorption that falls in a specific and defined pattern. (There is often a strong band at about 415.5 mm and a fairly strong one at 478.0 nm, with four weaker lines between the two.) Such diamonds may also fluoresce blue, yellow, or orange.
What is the cause of the yellow color in diamonds?
“In general, the presence of nitrogen atoms gives rise to two kinds of absorption in the blue region of the visible spectrum; the remainder of the spectrum is transmitted, leading to an observed yellow color,” according to GIA’s diamond color expert John King.

The color of this 9.05 ct Fancy Vivid yellow diamond is evenly distributed throughout the face up appearance of the stone. Courtesy of B. Najjar. photo by Robert Weldon/GIA
Canary is a historic term for a Type Ib fancy color intense yellow diamonds that is used to distinguish them from diamonds with a “cape” spectrum. Diamonds referred to in the trade as “canary yellow” are highly valued for their saturated yellow color.
Famous Yellow Diamonds

Schlumberger’s rosette necklace with ribbon clip features the famous Tiffany Yellow Diamond. Photo courtesy of Tiffany & Co.
There’s an inexplicable allure about diamonds that fascinates the gem lover. As early as 1676, accounts by the French traveler and gem dealer, Jean-Baptiste Tavernier, mentioned seeing a 137.27 ct yellow diamond that he referred to variously as the Florentine, the Austrian Yellow and the Grand Duke of Tuscany. Since then, many notable color diamonds have been given the elite distinction of famous diamonds, particularly as the appeal of color became widespread.
The Tiffany Yellow Diamond was acquired by Tiffany & Co. in 1878 and has been on display for more than 70 years in its flagship store in New York. Under the direction of Dr. George Frederick Kunz, it was cut from a 297.42 ct rough stone to its present cushion cut of 128.54 ct, one of the largest known fancy yellow diamonds in the world. GIA graded it in 1984.

The Allnatt, 101.29 cts, is a famous Fancy Vivid yellow diamond that improved in color and value by being recut. Photo by Shane F. McClure/GIA
The Allnatt, a yellow diamond thought to have originated from the De Beers mine in South Africa, is named for its former owner, Major Alfred Ernest Allnatt, a British soldier and noted philanthropist who purchased the diamond in the early 1950s.
The diamond next appeared at Christie’s Geneva auction in May 1996 weighing 102.07 ct with a color grade of Fancy Intense yellow. It was purchased and then recut to 101.29 ct to improve color and clarity, going from Fancy Intense to Fancy Vivid with an improved clarity grade to VS2.
The Allnatt is a classic example of early 20th century cutting styles used to retain maximum weight and enhance the color of a well-formed octahedral rough crystal.

The famous Kahn Canary Diamond is set in an 18K gold and platinum ring, designed and created by Henry Dunay, a prominent New York jeweler. The graceful billowy shape of the diamond was left uncut. Courtesy of the Stanley Kahn Family Collection, Pine Bluff, Arkansas. Photo by Harold & Erica Van Pelt/GIA
George Stepp, a logger from Carthage, Arkansas, found a yellow diamond crystal in the Crater of Diamonds State Park in Arkansas in 1972 and sold it to Kahn Jewelers in Pine Bluff, Arkansas, where it was left uncut to showcase its natural triangular pillow shape known as a macle crystal. “The Kahn Canary Diamond” weighs 4.25 carats and is internally flawless.
More than 33,000 diamonds have been found in the Crater of Diamonds State Park in Arkansas since it became a state park and opened to the public in 1977. The park has a “finders, keepers” policy that allows the public to dig for diamonds for a fee. @chapter:35 @chapter:1 @chapter:35


# Publication Year: 2023
# Title: Jewelry and Gemstone Trends from INHORGENTA MUNICH 2023 Trade Fair in Germany (Frankfurt Office).
# Abstract: Jewelry Trends for Special Occasions in 2566

Experts from the jewelry and gemstone exhibition industry in Germany have commented that 2566 will see a resurgence in wedding celebrations. Due to the COVID-19 pandemic crisis, over 100,000 weddings were postponed, with only 357,800 weddings held in 2564, the lowest number in German history according to statistics. However, there has been an increase in engagement requests, according to jewelry manufacturers' reports. This presents an opportunity in 2566 for the sale of wedding rings. European consumers often purchase wedding or couple rings valued between 1,000 to 4,000 euros, which remain popular in classic, luxurious designs made from precious metals like gold, white gold, and platinum.

Color Trend for 2566

The Pantone Color Institute has announced the new color trend for 2566 as "Viva Magenta," a tone resembling pigmented red, symbolizing a balance between warmth and coolness. Mrs. Leatrice Eiseman, the executive director of the institute, explained that this color trend represents courage, strength, vitality, excitement, and readiness for new adventures. This color tone can be seamlessly incorporated into jewelry, watches, and accessories designs. Designers and manufacturers such as Le Carré, Annamaria Cammilli, and Sabine Müller have already unveiled designs inspired by the Viva Magenta trend, showcasing vibrant and fitting pieces.

Environmental Certification for Jewelry

The FAIRMINED/FAIRTRADE label certifies jewelry made from responsibly sourced materials. FAIRMINED/FAIRTRADE is an organization that sets standards and certifies gold mines that operate ethically, with internal inspections to reduce the risk of human rights violations, social and environmental impacts. Those interested can verify certified gold mines on their websites fairmined.org and fairgold.org.

The certification for responsibly sourced gold began in 2009 with the "Standard Zero" set by the Alliance for Responsible Mining (ARM), which later collaborated with Fairtrade International to introduce the FAIRMINED and Fairtrade certified gold labels. However, in 2013, ARM and Fairtrade separated their certification processes, leading to two distinct labels: FAIRMINED and Fairtrade certified gold. These certifications aim to recognize gold sourced from socially, economically, and environmentally responsible mines. The standards cover aspects such as working conditions, environmental impact reduction, organizational development, and community development, ensuring no child labor, gender equality, and non-involvement in conflicts. @chapter:47 @chapter:3 @chapter:47


# Publication Year: 1989
# Title: Summer 1989 G&G Book Reviews
# Abstract: “Gemstones”
By Michael O'Donoghue, 372 pp., illus., publ. by Chapman & Hall, Ltd., London, 1988. US$50.00

“Channel Setting Diamonds”
By Robert R. Wooding, 136 pp., illus., publ. by Dry Ridge Co., Erlanger, KY, 1987. US$29.95

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:34 @chapter:1 @chapter:34


# Publication Year: 2020
# Title: Blue Inclusion in Rock Crystal Quartz
# Abstract: Figure 1. This 118.16 ct polished modified cube of rock crystal quartz contains an interesting tuft of blue needles, which may be tourmaline. Photo by Robert Weldon; courtesy of Mike Bowers.

Figure 2. This tuft of blue needles has nucleated on a quartz crystal and tapers toward the end opposite the core quartz crystal. Although too deep to be identified by Raman spectroscopy, the needles resemble light blue needles of tourmaline. Photomicrograph by Nathan Renfro; field of view 10.07 mm. Courtesy of Mike Bowers.
An interesting tuft of light blue needles was recently observed in a polished modified cube of rock crystal quartz (figure 1). The needles nucleated on a nearly invisible quartz crystal with the tuft tapering toward the opposite end (figure 2). When the tuft was examined looking parallel to the optic axis of the host quartz using cross-polarized light, the small included quartz crystal surrounded by the blue needles stood out in high relief due to the crystallographic misalignment with the host quartz. It was also interesting to note that the included quartz was perched at the apex of a twinned sector of the host quartz (figure 3). While the needles were located too deep within the quartz to conclusively identify with Raman spectroscopy, their appearance (in the author’s experience) suggests they may be pale blue tourmaline. This beautiful inclusion in rock crystal quartz is a striking example of a microfeature in a gem cut to showcase an inclusion.

Figure 3. When the host quartz is examined looking parallel to the optic axis, the core quartz crystal stands out in high relief and is interestingly located at the apex of a twinned sector of the host. Photomicrograph by Nathan Renfro; field of view 9.32 mm. Courtesy of Mike Bowers. @chapter:26 @chapter:0 @chapter:26


# Publication Year: 2021
# Title: Quarterly Crystal: Topaz with Phlogopite
# Abstract: Figure 1. This 216.56 ct topaz crystal is from Dusso, Pakistan. Photo by Diego Sanchez.

This issue’s quarterly crystal is a gem-quality very light pinkish brown topaz (figure 1) from the Dusso mine in Pakistan. The transparent singly terminated topaz crystal measures 30.52 × 29.84 × 27.89 mm and weighs 216.56 ct. It hosts a prominent 6 mm long dark brownish orange phlogopite mica booklet that shows strong brownish orange and yellow dichroism as well as lamellar cleavage planes (figure 2).

Figure 2. This prominent 6 mm crystal of phlogopite mica is hosted by the Pakistani topaz. Photomicrograph by Nathan Renfro; field of view 9.09 mm.
A tiny cluster of dark brownish red manganotantalite and colorless albite inclusions are also present. Small near-colorless and transparent mica and feldspar inclusions are randomly scattered throughout the crystal. This suite of inclusions strongly suggests that a complex granitic pegmatite was the parent rock type of this topaz. @chapter:8 @chapter:0 @chapter:8


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Spinel Journey
# Abstract: Few people outside the gem industry realize the true nature of a gemstone’s journey from the mine to the counter of a store. Whether the gem is being offered to consumer’s at a traditional jewelry store’s counter, an internet shopping site, or a television broadcast the journey always involves a great deal of effort.  Tons of earth and countless hours of labor are needed to being a gem from mine to market. @chapter:38 @chapter:3 @chapter:38


# Publication Year: -
# Title: The Spirit of Jadeite Carving
# Abstract: The classic jadeite cut is the cabochon. Some high-quality cabochons are worth a fortune. Photo by Eric Welch, ©GIA, courtesy of Mazu Jade Articleco., LTD

                      Jade is often considered synonymous with China. The country’s worship and appreciation of jade can be tracked back about 8,000 years. Nephrite dominated the jade trade until jadeite was first imported into China from across the border with Myanmar. Exactly when this happened is still very debatable, but most people agree that it was not later than the Ming Dynasty (around 1475).

For a long time, jadeite was traded mainly out of the palace. When the Empress Dowager Cixi ruled China at the end of the Qing Dynasty (1861 to 1908), she started to collect high-quality jadeite from all over the country to satisfy her own desires. This trend also swept over the whole royal family and the upper social class. By 1908, jadeite was already the most expensive jade sold in Beijing’s most famous antique market, Liu Li Chang. Jadeite and nephrite have shared high market status ever since.

	Three-dimensional jadeite carving: Shan Zi
It’s well known that jadeite can be shaped into different jewelry styles such as bracelets, rings, cabochons, and more, but China’s cutters also process this material into larger-scale decorations. These decorations are called “Shan Zi” in Chinese. “Shan” means hills or mountains, indicating that the jadeite was carved to preserve its original outline and shape. Compared to other methods, Shan Zi is probably the most natural way to process jadeite rough, but it is also the most expensive and time-consuming process.

There are also other ways to fashion jadeite. For example, some people slice jadeite rough into thin plates and then create cameos on the surface. This produces more-finished products from the same amount of material and can increase transparency as well.

Small pendants, decorations, and bracelets are typical products for the jadeite market. Photo by Eric Welch, ©GIA, courtesy of Mazu Jade Articleco., LTD
Carvers need relatively large materials with ideal outlines for carving Shan Zi. The rough was hard to find and transport, and multiple carvers had to work together for long periods of time to design and carve an individual piece. In the past, only the royal family or extremely rich people could afford Shan Zi, especially the largest carvings. The result is that, along with its use as decoration, Shan Zi is also a symbol of wealth and power.

This is a typical jadeite Shan Zi. The piece preserved the original shape and outline of the rough. A Shan Zi is usually carved in three dimensions. Its large size is impressive, even when viewed from a distance. Photo by Eric Welch, ©GIA, courtesy of Mazu Jade Articleco., LTD
Common Shan Zi themes include scenic views, plant life, traditional symbols, ancient famous paintings, and more. The choice of theme depends entirely on the shape and outline, and sometimes the color, of the rough material. The planning process and tools needed for 3-D carving originated with the carving of nephrite, as did theme selection.

High-quality jadeite is used to make 3-D carvings. When examined closely, this carving displays some precise details of individual characters. Photo by Eric Welch, ©GIA, Courtesy of Mazu Jade Articleco., LTD

	Acquiring the material
In June 2013, a group of GIA staff members visited one of southern China’s jadeite hubs. In Sihui, the authors were introduced to Mr. Zheng, the president of Mazu Jade Articleco., Ltd., and his close friend Mr. Fang, the president of Jingyu Mantang jadeite carving workshop. These two gentlemen warmly welcomed us and hosted our visit and showed us one of their ongoing carving projects.

They obtained the jadeite they were working on in 2004, at a public auction in Myanmar. It was separated from an even bigger jadeite boulder. They were not able to get the other half, which remained in Myanmar. The boulder they brought back weighed about eight tons, and they cut it into two pieces. One is now being carved to make a huge jadeite Shan Zi. The other part was further divided into three pieces to be carved into the three Chinese gods: Fu, Lu, and Shou.

Workers designed a special platform for this Shan Zi. The platform allows three carvers to work on the same side at the same time. The pencil sketch and some carving work have been completed. Photo by Eric Welch, ©GIA, Courtesy of Jingyu Mantang Jadeite workshop
When they purchased the rough, it had dark skin and a small window. When they brought it back and cut it open, they knew that they had won the auction gamble. The entire piece is full of purple and green colors. They built a special working platform to accommodate the three-ton segment along with the carvers. It will be carved into a jadeite Shan Zi. Mr. Fang told us that, to their knowledge, this is probably the largest jadeite Shan Zi in Asia.

Mr. Fang also pointed out that they would have profited more if they had used this material to make bangles, since bangles with full green or purple colors are usually worth several million RMB each. They could have produced a large number of bangles from this giant piece of rough. The reason they decided to make it into a Shan Zi was that, as an artist, Mr. Fang had always dreamed of finishing a masterpiece in his lifetime and both gentlemen sensed that this might be the opportunity to do it.

	Inspiration and theme selection
Mr. Fang is the chief designer of the piece. Working along with two other designers and six highly skilled carvers, it will probably take about five to six years to finish.

When asked about his design inspiration, Mr. Fang became very excited. This rough sat in the workshop from 2004 to 2010 because he could not find a suitable theme to base its design on. Then, in 2010, he attended the Shanghai Expo. In the China pavilion, he saw an amazing 3-D dynamic painting called Qingming Shanghe Tu (Along the River During the Qingming Festival). The 3-D painting inspired Mr. Fang, and he returned to Sihui the same day to plan the execution of this theme on his jadeite rough.

The original painting is full of people, which makes some of the carving detail extremely complicated. The finished product will show not only people’s individual facial expressions, but also the details of their clothing and even the jewelry they wear. Photo by Eric Welch, ©GIA, Courtesy of Jingyu Mantang Jadeite workshop
The original painting, Along the River During the Qingming Festival, is attributed to the great Northern Song Dynasty artist, Zhang Zeduan. It is 528 cm long and 24.8 cm high. It shows active scenes of life in Bianjing, the capital city during the Northern Song Dynasty. From 960 to 1279, China was the most developed and powerful country in the world. Mr. Fang loved the idea of using his favorite jadeite rough to represent the most prosperous period in China’s history. Since the original painting was too long to fit this jadeite, he decided to use its most eye-catching parts. The two main scenes are the city gate and the bridge.

The visiting team was shown the pencil sketch on the jadeite and some parts that have been worked on already. Mr. Fang also showed us the back of the rough, which will also be carved to represent parts of the painting.

In the room next to the workshop, progress was being made on the carving of the three gods: Fu, Lu, and Shou, made from a portion of the same rough material. The first pencil sketch has been finished. Mr. Fang pointed out that the design might be changed here and there as work progresses because jadeite color distribution is very complex and it can change within centimeters.

Part of the rough was divided into three pieces to carve the three gods, Fu, Lu, and Shou. Large statues like these are very rarely seen on the market. Photo by Eric Welch, ©GIA, Courtesy of Jingyu Mantang Jadeite workshop.
In Chinese culture, Fu is the god of happiness and good luck, Lu is the god of fortune and social class, and Shou is the god of longevity. Decorations with these three as the theme can be seen everywhere and are made of a variety of materials, including china and wood. In the past, almost every family had a set of the three in different formats or materials. According to Mr. Fang, the sizes of these carvings of the gods make them extremely rare. Also, the material being used is of abnormally high quality. This is another dream project he is working on at the same time as the main carving.

The god Lu is the symbol of good fortune and high social class. The sketch shows a lot of the details that will be incorporated into the finished product. Photo by Eric Welch, ©GIA, Courtesy of Jingyu Mantang Jadeite workshop

	A dedicated jadeite carver
Mr. Fang’s full name is Xingchun Fang. He was born in 1975 in Putian, Fujian province, which is a town that’s famous for its wood carvings. Mr. Fang began learning wood carving when he was very young. This gave him a very solid base in the art and led him to the world of jadeite carving later in his life.

Mr. Fang arrived in Sihui as a 17-year-old in 1992. He started his jadeite carving career as a worker in various workshops. He practiced jadeite polishing and simple carving techniques every day. Many people felt that the job was too boring and left, and Mr. Fang was one of the very few who stayed.

After a year or so, he opened his own small business, carving small pendants for dealers to sell. Although small pendants were the mainstream products on the market back then, Mr. Fang felt that it was not what he wanted to do as an artist. Finally, he successfully persuaded a dealer to let him make a small-scale 3-D Shan Zi for him. The dealer sold the product and made a good profit. This inspired more dealers to ask Mr. Fang to make large jadeite carvings for them.

With the development of his own business, Mr. Fang gradually gained the purchasing power to buy his own jadeite rough. After experiencing ups and downs, he finally got the business on the right track. In 2003, he started to collaborate with Mr. Zheng from Mazu. Mr. Fang was in charge of design. During their collaboration, Mr. Fang created many award-winning masterpieces that helped Mazu gain its fame and status in Sihui as the best jadeite carving company.

Mr. Fang introduces the ongoing project to the visitors from GIA. Photo by Eric Welch, ©GIA, Courtesy of Jingyu Mantang jadeite workshop
Although Mr. Fang left Mazu to form his own company, Jingyu Mantang, his friendship with Mr. Zheng never ended. Now Mr. Fang is heading toward his next dream: to turn his company into a museum of high-end jadeite carving and to attract the most skilled carvers from all over the country to come and work together.

As a successful young jadeite carving artist, Mr. Fang has always kept in mind that to become a great jadeite carver, one should have the same strong properties as jadeite. He also believes that there is a subtle connection between him and jadeite, and between him and his friends who share the same interests and passion. @chapter:55 @chapter:4 @chapter:55


# Publication Year: 1984
# Title: Fall 1984 Gem News International
# Abstract: Diamonds
            Australia: Indian Cutters Report Problems Working with Australian Diamonds
            Guinea: Aredor Diamond Mine Goes to Full Production This Year
            India: More Than 400,000 People Employed in Diamond Cutting in India
            Kenya: Government Issuing Geological Prospecting Licenses to Foreign Companies
Colored Stones
            New Molten Glass Filler Used to Seal Corundum Voids
            Update on Use of Borax in Heat Treatment in Thailand
            Gem Auction in Pakistan Raises Issues of Illegal Mining and Smuggling
            High-Grade Manganese Ore found in Orissa, India
            MMTC Activities in India Enumerated
            Zambia Cancels Emerald-Mining Contract with Saudi Arabian Company
Precious Metals
            New Platinum Prospect Located in East Transvaal, South Africa
            Ghana Plans to Resurrect Its Gold-Mining Industry
            Mitsubishi Metal Corp. Discovers Promising Gold Vein at Yatani Mine
            New Gold and Silver Reserves Discovered at Knob Hill in Republic, Washington
            Soquem and New Pascalis Mines Announce Gold Reserve East of Quebec
            Independent Miners in the Philippines Establish a Gold Town
            Plans Are Announced to Develop an Open-Cast Gold Mine in Southwest Zimbabwe
Synthetics and Simulants
            Jewelers Vigilance Committee Augments Rules on Pearl Definitions
            Iimori Lab Donates Five Interesting Glass Samples to Gems & Gemology
Announcements
            Two Major New Additions Help Mark the Centennial of the National Gem Collection
            Society of Jewellery Historians of the British Museum Announces New Annual Journal
            AGA 1985 Conference Will be Held February 4 & 5 in Tucson
            GIA Slide Library Solicits Labeled Slides of the World’s Gemstone Localities

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:34 @chapter:3 @chapter:34


# Publication Year: 1993
# Title: Reactor-Irradiated Green Topaz
# Abstract: Examination of samples of faceted "Ocean green" topaz reveals that this material has been irradiated in a nuclear reactor. An earlier reactor-irradiation experiment suggests that temperature conditions during the irradiation of this material may be higher than those used to produce typical "London-blue" topaz. Like such reactor-irradiated blue topaz, this material may be radioactive. In addition, the green color is not stable to direct sunlight. @chapter:16 @chapter:0 @chapter:16