# Publication Year: 2020
# Title: Tree in Rock Crystal Quartz
# Abstract: Figure 1. This 80.60 ct rock crystal quartz cabochon contained an interesting tree-like metal sulfide inclusion. Photo by Robert Weldon.
The unusual quartz cabochon shown in figure 1 displays visually appealing dendritic inclusions that resemble trees. This inclusion scene is an excellent example of pareidolia, the tendency to assign familiar shapes to abstract forms (see Winter 2007 Lab Notes, pp. 363–364). Combined with a unique illumination technique, the inclusions are reminiscent of trees with green grass and a blue sky (figure 2).

Figure 2. Epigenetic metal sulfides are trapped in a partially healed fracture of rock crystal quartz. Modified Rheinberg illumination provides artificial blue and green color contrast reminiscent of grass and a sky. Photomicrograph by Nathan Renfro; field of view 20.14 mm. Courtesy of Mike Bowers.
The dendritic “tree” patterns are metal sulfide inclusions, as evidenced by their brassy yellow metallic color and opaque nature. When viewed with diffused fiber-optic lighting, the metal sulfide inclusions show a crisp foil-like texture near a partially healed internal fracture. This is likely where the metal sulfides entered the quartz host. They were deposited as an epigenetic residue in the fracture near the base of the tree, which was later healed, leaving behind the metal sulfides and numerous minute fluid inclusions where the fracture once was.
Adding green and blue filters behind the stone, known as modified Rheinberg illumination (Fall 2015, pp. 328–229), helped complete the appearance of a micro-landscape contained in the rock crystal quartz. This lighting technique is characterized by using contrasting color filters to bring striking color contrast to scenes viewed with a microscope (N.D. Renfro, “Digital photomicrography for gemologists,” Summer 2015 G&G, pp. 144–159). This unique quartz gem can be appreciated for the beautiful inclusion scene it contains. @chapter:26 @chapter:0 @chapter:26


# Publication Year: 2014
# Title: Gem Crystals – Tucson 2014
# Abstract: Figure 1. Tiny calcite crystals adhering to the surfaces of this superb tanzanite crystal, along with the brown coloration around its base, are strong indicators that the material has not been heated. The crystal weighs 500.45 ct and measures approximately 8 cm in length. Photo by Eric Welch; courtesy of New Era Gems.

              At the Pueblo Show, Steve Ulatowski (New Era Gems, Grass Valley, California) told us how the dynamics of his business have shifted from facet-quality rough to crystal specimens, which now make up more than 80% of his turnover by dollar value. In particular, small gem crystals in wire-wrapped jewelry now form a large part of his commerce.

	Steve UlatowskiNew Era Gems

	Gem-trade veteran Steve Ulatowski describes the recent market changes have driven prices for rough colored gems of all types to unprecedented heights. He explains the impact on his business and reveals some of the key factors behind these momentous market dynamics.
Ten years ago, facet rough made up 90% of New Era’s business, while gem crystals were a mere 5%. Facet rough now represents just 10% of his total, because it is nearly unobtainable.

As an example of changing market dynamics, Ulatowski showed us a fine tanzanite crystal (figure 1), which previously would have been more valuable as a mineral specimen. In today’s frenzied market, such a crystal might be worth $45,000 uncut but command $50,000 as rough for faceting.

According to Ulatowski, the criteria for a superior gem crystal include luster, color, and the condition of its edges (absence of nicks or chips). Whether or not it has a perfect termination also plays a role. Another consideration is the potential amount of cuttable material. For example, a 109- gram tanzanite crystal might yield 80 grams (400 carats) of cutting material, which would yield on average about 160 carats of fashioned gems.

Ulatowski noted that due to demand for cutting rough in late 2013, many crystals were broken for that purpose. Fine, well-formed crystals once commanded a premium over those suitable only for cutting fashioned gems; a fine crystal might be worth twice as much if left as a specimen. Although fine crystals are exceptionally rare, the market for cutting rough is tremendous right now, with worldwide shortage of every type of cutting material—even staples like blue topaz and smoky quartz. He has never seen a rough shortage comparable to this current one. Like other dealers at the shows, Ulatowski believes this represents a combination of less global mining activity, stricter mining regulations in many countries, rising fuel costs, and growing Asian demand.

Still, his U.S. client base is reluctant to pay higher prices for what they perceive as overpriced rough. There is also a growing trend toward better cutting at the source, with governments trying to support their own domestic cutting industries, as this retains more value in country than merely exporting the rough as raw material.

	Figure 2. This 335.46 ct crystal contains relatively little cuttable material, but its crystal form and condition are excellent, making it worth five times more as an uncut specimen. The cuttable portion is located near the tip of the crystal, where the rough begins to narrow, so there is not enough depth for a significant faceted stone. Photo by Eric Welch; courtesy of New Era Gems.
Ulatowski had a range of unheated tanzanite crystals, which he estimated might make up 20% of total rough tanzanite production. He showed us many examples with blue to green terminations and brown coloration near the base (figure 2). A few blue crystals included calcite matrix, while some had associated pyrite.

Although many in the trade say all blue tanzanites have been heated, Ulatowski explained that it is impossible to heat only part of a crystal. Therefore, any crystal that is brown on the base has not been heated. In many specimens, the brown base is best for cutting, as it is usually the widest part of the crystal.

Demand for what Ulatowski calls “fancy tanzanite” (zoisite) is strong, with top pink colors selling for up to $800 per carat. Unheated natural pinks usually form only in the tip of the crystal, so most stones are small (less than a carat). The most valuable specimens are pure pink, with no purple cast.

	Figure 3. This 765.00 ct tanzanite crystal was heated in an oven at approximately 1000°F to remove all brown coloration. After the temperature was raised incrementally over a number of hours, the peak temperature was maintained for one hour before gradual cooling over a period of six to eight hours. Prior to heating, the crystal was completely brown, with no traces of blue. Photo by Eric Welch.
For contrast, Ulatowski showed us a heated crystal where the brown coloration had been removed (figure 3), as well as a natural unheated reddish brown sample (figure 4) with no hint of blue. He also had a range of green grossular garnet crystals, a byproduct of Merelani tanzanite mining (figure 5). Also remarkable were bicolor tourmaline crystals (figure 6) with an unusual etched core but intact terminations. These were reportedly from the Barra de Salinas mine in Minas Gerais, Brazil.

	Figure 4. Specimen crystals, such as this 87.59 ct natural-color unheated reddish brown zoisite, are currently the mainstay of Steve Ulatowski’s business. Photo by Eric Welch; courtesy of New Era Gems.
In closing, Ulatowski noted that his best sales year at Tucson was 2013, but that 2014 was headed in the same direction.

	Figure 5. In Merelani, green grossular garnet (tsavorite or “mint” garnet) is a byproduct of tanzanite mining. This unusual 27 ct group of intact euhedral crystals measures approximately 4 cm in length. It is a “floater,” meaning there is no visible attachment to any host rock. Photo by Eric Welch; courtesy of New Era Gems.

	Figure 6. These bicolor tourmaline crystals are reportedly from the Barra de Salinas mine near Coronel Murta in Minas Gerais, Brazil (left). Each 2–3 cm crystal had a heavily etched, almost skeletal pink core topped by a euhedral or very slightly etched green cap. The terminations (right) may have projected into a layer of clay minerals during formation, protecting them from etching. Photos by Eric Welch; courtesy of New Era Gems. @chapter:34 @chapter:2 @chapter:34


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Bench Tip #13: Ergonomics for Bench Pin Modifications
# Abstract: Bench pin modifications

Ergonomics is the safe and effective relationship between a worker and the work environment. For the bench jeweler who spends hours working with a bench pin, it is important to make it work efficiently and effectively for you. There are many modifications you can make to ensure this.

People prefer different bench pins, namely a flat piercing pin vs. an angled working pin. Some modifications can be used with either type, while others work better with a specific style of bench pin.

To modify a working bench pin, start with a standard wedge-shaped bench pin, measuring 133 x 59 millimeters. These are available at most jewelry tool suppliers. With the angled side facing up, draw a 15-mm-long line, 13 mm in from the left edge. Make a mark 61 mm back from the front right edge and draw an angled line from that point to the end of the first line. The wood on the right side of the lines is cut away to leave the basic shape of the working bench pin. The 15 mm line is cut with a perpendicular cut. The angled line is cut at 45 degrees, tilting away from the front top, leaving a slanted surface. Holding items against that edge makes filing easier.

Whichever type of bench pin you use, the best place to start is with a piece of sandpaper. Simply smoothing the surface of the wood and gently rounding corners will make a difference you’ll feel immediately as your hands come in contact with the bench pin.

To help the bench pin hold a ring clamp securely, sand interlocking grooves with a 25 mm sanding band in the bench pin and the ring clamp. Sand the bench pin at the intersection of the first two cuts, leaving a semicircular arc with vertical sides. On the ring clamp, measure down 10 mm from each end and draw a line around the body. Sand a groove in the ring clamp following this line to create a lip at the end that will catch on the bench pin and hold it steady when in use. Sand the ring clamp groove until it mates nicely with the arc on the bench pin.

	A ring-cutting fixture at the end of the bench pin is invaluable and easy to make.
A ring-cutting fixture at the end of the bench pin is invaluable. To create one, file an 8-mm-wide groove in an arc around the squared end of the pin, 5 mm from the front edge. A ring shank will slip over this 5-mm-wide lip and be secured straight and square while you cut it for size. Next, use a No. 2 blade to cut a straight vertical slot into the end of the bench pin. Your saw will follow this slot when you cut ring shanks. You can also file a relief notch at the top center of the lip of the ring-cutting fixture with the narrow edge of a flat hand file centered on the saw cut. This will open up sight lines so the area you are cutting will not be obscured behind the lip of the fixture. This modification increases the accuracy of the cut and the efficiency of the operation while reducing the possibility of slipping, broken blades and injury.

	Holding a ring during the sawing operation with this modification makes it more secure.
	It also increases the accuracy of the cut and the efficiency of the operation, while reducing
	the possibility of slipping, breaking blades and suffering an injury.
You can also prevent rings from sliding on the bench pin while filing the insides of shanks by making a set of three grooves. Use a ball bur to cut the grooves—2 mm, 6 mm and 10 mm wide—in the top of the bench pin, just behind the angled diagonal cut. Each groove should be 12 mm long and aligned with the diagonal cut, side by side, parallel with the angled top edge. They should be 1-2 mm deep with at least 5 mm between them. This modification enables the jeweler to file flat inside ring contours.

A stone-holding tray can also be incorporated into the flat top of the bench pin. Mark a 12 x 22 mm rectangle and use a ball bur to carve out a shallow depression to hold the stones.

A similar feature can be added to the right side of the bench pin to hold cutting lubricant. Mark a 10 x 10 mm square and use a ball bur to carve a shallow depression, just like the one in the stone tray. Melt the cutting lubricant into the depression with a soft flame. Slightly overfill the cavity, and when it cools you can quickly wipe the cutting lubricant from your saw blades, burs and twist drills.

The more you specialize your tasks at the bench, the more specialized your modifications will become. Left-handed bench jewelers can simply mirror the locations and orientations of most of these modifications. As you continue to work, keep in mind that a few minutes with a file, bur and square- or straight-edge tool can make a significant difference in how well your bench pin works for you. @chapter:38 @chapter:2 @chapter:38


# Publication Year: 2016
# Title: HPHT-Grown Synthetic Diamond with Strain
# Abstract: Figure 1. This DiamondView image of the 1.60 ct HPHT synthetic shows the diagnostic square pattern seen in the crown facets. Photo by Troy Ardon.

	An undisclosed HPHT-grown synthetic diamond was submitted to the GIA laboratory in Ramat Gan, Israel, for a diamond grading report. It weighed 1.60 ct and was in the near-colorless range. Initial screening showed the diamond was type IIa (without detectable nitrogen or boron in the infrared spectrum), which prompted further testing. Examination with the DiamondView fluorescent imaging system revealed the growth patterns betraying the synthetic origin (figure 1). Photoluminescence detected a further lack of impurities: no nickel-related peaks, a very common defect in HPHT synthetics, and only small amounts of nitrogen-vacancy centers.

	When viewed under polarized light, the diamond showed very little strain throughout most of the body, but one side on the pavilion displayed noticeable birefringent colors caused by internal strain (figure 2). HPHT-grown synthetic diamonds are known for being mostly free of strain, which generally occurs only around inclusions. They are grown in a metal catalyst, and metal particles can become trapped in them. These trapped particles place stress on the host diamond, which causes strain. But that is a localized strain seen around an inclusion, which was not the case in this synthetic diamond. Except for a small fracture on the pavilion, there were no internal inclusions that could have created strain. Furthermore, the strain patterns were linear rather than radial, as is the case with inclusion-related strain.

Figure 2. An image taken with polarized light showing the linear birefringence colors, indicating the presence of linear strain in the diamond lattice. Photo by Troy Ardon; field of view 6 mm.

	Fortunately, this strain is still distinguishable from the type of strain in natural diamonds, which have a cross-hatched pattern known as “tatami” strain. The cause of the strain in this synthetic diamond is unknown, but if it is related to a new growth process we would expect to see more strained HPHT-grown diamonds in the future. As innovations in the synthetic diamond industry continue to introduce a wider variety of products, more and more properties of natural and synthetic diamonds will start to overlap, necessitating caution when separating stones. @chapter:9 @chapter:1 @chapter:9


# Publication Year: -
# Title: December Blues: Birthstone Gifts that Will Delight
# Abstract: The blue and green color zoning in this 30.5 ct bicolor tanzanite is especially clear and easy to see. Courtesy Kobi Sevdermish, Advance Quality, Ltd. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA

If you are looking for a gift for someone special, December’s trio of blue birthstones offers a wide range for every taste, style and personality – even if it’s not their birth month. Let’s suppose, just for fun, that gemstones have personalities. Let’s look at the traits of turquoise, zircon and tanzanite to pair them with different individuals for the perfect gift.
Turquoise: Natural, earthy, traditional
Turquoise’s personality is natural, earthy and traditional. It has been used in jewelry dating back to the earliest recorded history of civilization in many cultures.

Egyptians preferred the greenish-blue turquoise found in the Sinai Peninsula, which is fortunately resistant to fading when exposed to sun or water. Well-preserved bracelets, pectoral ornaments and scarabs featuring turquoise have been discovered from excavations in Ancient Egypt dating prior to 3100 BCE. Archeologists have also found turquoise ceremonial artifacts in the tombs of Mayan elite in Central America.

A stunning 13.48 ct Sleeping Beauty turquoise cabochon is surrounded by diamonds and plique à jour enamel, set in 18K gold. Courtesy of Andrew Sarosi. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA.
Turquoise was introduced to Europe in the 16th century as it made its way on the Silk Road from mines in Persia to the bazaars in Turkey. Although many think turquoise material was named for its color, the robin egg blue material from the historic Khorasan province of Persia derived its name from the French turquois for “Turkish” because the mineral was first brought to Europe through Turkey. Although the original source has been mined out, fine blue turquoise is still described as Persian blue in the trade today.

Native American cultures believe the Earth is alive and that turquoise is a living, healing gemstone. The Sleeping Beauty mine in Arizona is known for turquoise with spider web matrix, which is prominent in Southwest Native American jewelry.

China is the world’s major source of top color sky blue turquoise. Turquoise is a copper phosphate mineral, which accounts for its opaque blue to green colors.  It is found in the Sinai Peninsula, Turkey, China and North America.

View Gallery

Zircon: Bright, colorful impersonator, sometimes moody
Zircon’s bright personality is a result of its high refractive index, which gives it excellent brilliance, luster and fire. Its characteristics resemble diamond, so it was used in the 19th century as a diamond alternative.

Zircon is colorless when pure. Trace minerals found in the gems produce yellow, orange, blue, red, brown and green colors. Most rough zircon is brown and can be transformed into colorless and blue by heat treatment.

Blue zircon and cultured pearls from Australia combine in this classic pair of convertible earrings. Not in the mood for dangle? The pearls are detachable in this custom design by Ilka Bahn. Courtesy of Orasa Weldon. Photo by Emily Lane/GIA
Zircons are classified as high or low zircons depending on their density, hardness and refractive index. Because of its uranium and thorium content, low (metamict) zircon is modified by internal radiation damage. Over time its density decreases; the crystal structure is compromised taking on a lackluster, moody appearance and the color changes.

Blue zircon was popular in English estate jewelry in the 1880s and it remains the most popular color with consumers. Zircon is believed to provide the wearer with wisdom, honor and riches.
Tanzanite: Popular, modern, intriguing
Tanzanite, a modern gem discovered in the 1960s in the foothills of Africa’s Mt. Kilimanjaro, its only source, has multiple personalities. Because of its pleochroism, cutting direction determines the gem’s overall face-up color. When you look at it from one angle it appears blue, but from a different angle it appears purple. Or, if you look very closely and are lucky you may see a third color – red green, orange or brown. Cutting plays an important role in tanzanite’s color display, so does a prevalent low-heat treatment that modifies brownish zoisite to more desirable violet to blue colors, known as tanzanite.

This tanzanite and diamond ring is courtesy of Michelle Loon, GIA GG. Photo by Kevin Schumacher/GIA.
Fine tanzanite has a richness and depth of color that is often described as “velvety.” It is one of the world’s most popular gemstones, at times rivaling ruby, emerald and sapphire. Mineral collectors vie for beautiful crystal specimens of natural zoisite in blue, purple, green, yellow, and pink hues.

Now that you’ve become acquainted with these December birthstones, you are ready to make an informed birthstone choice for a gift in December – or any time of the year. @chapter:31 @chapter:2 @chapter:31


# Publication Year: 2014
# Title: Books: Kentucky Agate:State Rock and Mineral Treasure of the Commonwealth
# Abstract: By Ronald L. McIntosh and Warren H. Anderson, 216 pp., illus., publ., by University Press of Kentucky, Lexington, 2013, US$45.00.

              From rough found in the streambeds of Station Stamp Creek to finished jewelry, the story of Kentucky agates, the official rock of the Bluegrass State, is told in words and shown with beautiful images.

The adventure starts in the first chapter, which offers 10 examples of agate types with descriptive names such as plume, moss, cloud, and flame. The photo meant to show moss and dendritic agate is not a good example, though, as the image did not clearly resemble moss on a rock of the branches of a tree, as described.

Chapter 2 explores when and where to find agates, as well as places where collecting is not permitted, such as Daniel Boone National Forest or the Natural Bridge State Park and River Gorge Geological Area, both of them scenic and popular spaces. Maps and photos of these locations are provided. The chapter also provides the names of gem and mineral shows, both within and outside the state, where agates are sold, as well as Kentucky colleges and museums with collections that are open to the public.

The formation and geology of agates are covered in the next two chapters. Chapter 3 features 16 photos of polished material, with captions describing the incredible colors and unique features of each sample. Chapter 4 includes a geologic map of the area where most Kentucky agates are found, along with the origins of their beautiful colors and banded patterns.

Microscopic features are described and shown in chapter 5. Under magnification, the causes of the unique features are more easily seen, and the captions offer additional details. For example, page 40 features an agate with heart-shaped banding, yellow limonite, and red hematite spherical inclusions. Ten of the samples are shown in reflected light, two in transmitted light, and another two in both reflected and transmitted light. The differences in appearance are striking, though it is unfortunate that the captions don’t list the magnification used.

The highlight of the book is chapter 6, featuring 255 photographs of cut specimens and slices. There are no more than two agates per page for over 149 pages. The backgrounds have been removed from the photos so the agates are seen against the white page, which makes the beautiful colors, patterns, and features even more breathtaking.

The final chapter features 11 examples of agate jewelry, with a photo displaying various agate cabochons. There is a refreshing mix of the traditional belt buckles and bolo ties alongside some very modern designs. One notable example is a tie clasp featuring a freeform polished agate with bold, contrasting colored bands of red and gray/black designed and created by Rachel Savané. Additional works are listed in the bibliography for readers interested in more information.

In this volume, Ronald McIntosh and Warren Anderson bring together an amazing collection of agates, professionally photographed with high-quality printing, creating a greater level of appreciation for these natural works of art. @chapter:4 @chapter:0 @chapter:4


# Publication Year: 2009
# Title: Characterization of Peridot from Sardinia, Italy
# Abstract: Gem-quality peridot is occasionally found as mantle xenoliths within basalts near Pozzomaggiore, in northwestern Sardinia, Italy. The gemological properties and spectroscopic features of this material are consistent with the measured chemical composition of Fo91Fa9, typical of peridot from other localities worldwide. Although not yet mined commercially, this stone represents a promising gem material. @chapter:14 @chapter:0 @chapter:14


# Publication Year: 2024
# Title: The Indian government has increased import duty to 15 percent on gold, silver and precious metal coins.
# Abstract: On January 22, 2567, the Ministry of Finance of India announced an increase in import taxes on pearls and jewelry components for gold, money, and metal coins by 15%, which includes a Basic Customs Duty (BCD) rate of 10% and an additional 5% to align with the Agricultural Infrastructure Development Cess (AIDC) exempt from the additional tax rate from the Social Welfare Surcharge (SWS) (previously collected at 10%). The Ministry of Finance defines 'Gold and Silver findings' to include small components like clasps, keys, locks, lock bodies, catches, and pins used as part of jewelry.

Additional information:

1. The Indian government, through the Ministry of Finance, has increased the customs duty rates for the import of Silver Dore Bar and related metals to align with the rates previously set for gold and money. The Basic Customs Duty (BCD) for silver articles is raised to 10% (from 7.5%), including an Agricultural Infrastructure Development Cess (AIDC) of 5% (from 2.5%). For silver dore bars, BCD is set at 10% and AIDC at 4.35%, while components of silver are subject to BCD of 25% (from 22%), with no changes for gold.

2. India is the world's second-largest consumer of gold jewelry, mostly imported. The purpose of this tax hike is to streamline the import of valuable metals, enhance economic landscapes within the country, and create efficient import markets.

3. During the budget session 2021-2022, Finance Minister Nirmala Sitharaman proposed the inclusion of an Agricultural Infrastructure Development Cess (AIDC) for alcoholic beverages, gold, silver, silk fabric, pulses, apples, gasoline, and diesel. The aim of the government's taxation measures is to maintain domestic markets efficiently, preserve inventory, and process agricultural products effectively, instilling confidence among farmers of improved incomes. The commercial tax rates and fees set by this taxation measure are designed to not burden consumers.

4. The government believes that the increase in import taxes for gold, money, and metal coins in this instance will contribute to increased revenue for the country, strengthen economic stability, and promote state welfare programs.

comments:

1. The policy of increasing import taxes on jewelry, including gold, money, and metal components for coins, in this instance, will lead to increased awareness and preparedness among businesses and consumers to handle the potential impacts. This includes informing consumers about changes in international trade measures and policies that promote domestic business and industry. Industries directly affected by this move are those in the jewelry sector that focus on importing jewelry made of gold, silver, and other components of money used in products. Additionally, India's metal industries will directly feel the impact of this increase, affecting production processes and factory capacity. This positive impact will elevate competitiveness within the country's industries, fostering product development and offering consumer choices.

2. SKT sees that the tax adjustment measures for jewelry and jewelry-related products, including gold, money, and valuable metals, are merely addressing the issue of trade imbalances within the country. SKT has observed the situation and notes that these measures not only fail to swiftly resolve the issue but also bring negative side effects to the domestic jewelry industry. This is because the industry must bear the cost burden resulting from tax increases and a lack of production materials. Thai entrepreneurs should understand and closely monitor the Indian government's measures and prepare for business readiness. The Indian government tends to announce trade barrier measures to protect domestic industries regularly. @chapter:37 @chapter:3 @chapter:37


# Publication Year: 2018
# Title: Cat’s-Eye Brazilian Paraíba Tourmaline
# Abstract: Figure 1. This 0.51 ct Paraíba tourmaline from Brazil displays sharp chatoyancy. Photo by Nuttapol Kitdee.
A vivid shade of tourmaline varying from “neon” blue to greenish blue, caused by copper and manganese, was discovered in Brazil in the 1980s. Recognized as “Paraíba” tourmaline in the gem trade, it is still highly sought after, even though tourmalines exhibiting this “Paraíba” color are now more accessible from localities such as Nigeria and Mozambique.
Recently, GIA’s Bangkok laboratory received a vivid blue tourmaline with chatoyancy (figure 1), weighing 0.51 ct and measuring 5.89 × 4.19 × 2.46 mm. Standard gemological testing resulted in a spot refractive index reading of 1.64 and a specific gravity of 3.05. Microscopic examination revealed diagnostic irregular two-phase inclusions, trichites, and acicular (needle-like) features. The sharp cat’s-eye effect was caused by an included layer of fine parallel growth tubes positioned just above the base of the cabochon. The phenomenon of chatoyancy enhances its rarity and value.
Laser ablation–inductively coupled plasma–mass spectrometry (LA-ICP-MS) was used to perform an elemental analysis. The sample showed high Cu ranging from 7289 to 10544 ppmw, as well as 9494–10441 ppmw Mn, 114–133 ppmw Ga, 55–65 ppmw Pb, 39–48 ppmw Fe, 14–20 ppmw Zn, and 0.6–0.5 ppmw Sr. The very high concentration of Cu as well as the results for Ga (<250 ppmw), Pb (<100 ppmw), and Sr (<10 ppmw) supported its Brazilian origin (J.E. Shigley et al., “An update on ‘Paraíba’ tourmaline from Brazil,” Winter 2001 G&G, pp. 260–267; A. Abduriyim et al., “Paraíba-type copper-bearing tourmaline from Brazil, Nigeria, and Mozambique: Chemical fingerprinting by LA-ICP-MS,” Spring 2006 G&G, pp. 4–21; Z. Sun et al., “A simplified species classification for gem-quality tourmaline by LA-ICP-MS,” submitted for publication). Copper-bearing tourmaline of this color is typically referred to in the trade as “Paraíba” tourmaline.
Cat’s-eye Paraíba tourmaline is not new, though fewer than 10 have been submitted to GIA laboratories. The combination of well-developed chatoyancy, transparency, pleasing vivid blue color, and Brazilian origin make this a rare and noteworthy gemstone. @chapter:12 @chapter:0 @chapter:12


# Publication Year: 1999
# Title: The Separation of Natural from Synthetic Colorless Sapphire
# Abstract: Greater amounts of colorless sapphire—promoted primarily as diamond substitutes, but also as natural gemstones—have been seen in the gem market during the past decade. In the absence of inclusions or readily identifiable growth structures, natural colorless sapphires can be separated from their synthetic counterparts by their trace-element composition and short-wave ultraviolet (SWUV) transparency. Energy-dispersive X-ray fluorescence (EDXRF) analysis shows higher concentrations of trace elements (i.e., Fe, Ti, Ca, and Ga) in natural sapphires. These impurities cause a reduction in SWUV transparency that can be detected by UV-visible spectrophotometry (i.e., a total absorption in the UV region below 280–300 nm, which is not seen in their synthetic counterparts). This article describes a SWUV transparency tester that can rapidly identify parcels of colorless sapphires. @chapter:19 @chapter:1 @chapter:19


# Publication Year: 2015
# Title: Amber with Mite Inclusion
# Abstract: Figure 1. A mite with exceptionally long front legs (2.1 mm), as seen using shadowed transmitted and fiber-optic illumination (left), was found in this small 13.15-mm-long fragment of amber (right). Images by Nathan Renfro.

              A most unusual mite (figure 1, left) was discovered as an inclusion in an approximately 30-million-year-old double-polished plate of amber from the Dominican Republic (figure 1, right). The specimen was acquired from the private collection of William W. Pinch of Pittsford, New York. The plate itself weighed 0.77 ct and measured 13.15 × 7.59 × 2.76 mm, while the mite’s body was 0.34 mm in length.

What made this mite unusual was that the longest front leg measured approximately 2.10 mm, disproportionately long in relation to the rest of its body. This type of mite, of the genus Podocinum, might be awkward-looking, but its morphology has survived millions of years virtually unchanged, an indication that it was just as efficient a predator then as its living counterpart today. Podocinum is a very slow-moving mite that lives in loose soil, feeding on springtails (Collembola). As it travels about, the mite uses its extremely long front legs to explore the soil around it and quickly snare any springtail that happens to come too close.

A literature search failed to turn up any other example of a Podocinum mite as an inclusion in amber, making this an even more interesting specimen. So while a small polished piece of amber itself might have virtually no commercial or scientific value, the addition of a well-preserved microscopic organism completely changes the value factor of the specimen. @chapter:54 @chapter:4 @chapter:54


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Amethyst Description
# Abstract: This amethyst crystal is from Namibia. It shows classic quartz crystal shape: a six-sided columnar crystal with a pyramid-shaped termination at the top. Courtesy Daniel Trinchillo, Fine Minerals International.

                      Amethyst is the purple variety of the quartz mineral species. It’s the gem that’s most commonly associated with the color purple, even though there are other purple gems such as sapphire and tanzanite. Its purple color can be cool and bluish, or a reddish purple that’s sometimes referred to as “raspberry.”

	Most people think of amethyst when they picture a beautiful purple gem. Courtesy Intimate Gems.
Amethyst’s purple color can range from a light lilac to a deep, intense royal purple, and from brownish to vivid. Amethyst also commonly shows what is called color zoning, which in the case of amethyst usually consists of angular zones of darker to lighter color.

	Amethyst commonly shows zones of darker and lighter colors. Photo by Mike Havstad/GIA. @chapter:5 @chapter:0 @chapter:5


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Spring 2023 G&G Available Now
# Abstract: A variety of topics awaits you in the Spring issue of G&G. With two feature articles, another installment of Diamond Reflections, our report on the 2023 Tucson shows, the annual G&G Challenge quiz, and more, there’s something for everyone inside.
GEMOLOGICAL CHARACTERIZATION OF MONTANA SAPPHIRE FROM THE SECONDARY DEPOSITS AT ROCK CREEK, MISSOURI RIVER, AND DRY COTTONWOOD CREEK
Dr. Aaron Palke and coauthors share their in-depth study of Montana sapphire from secondary deposits at Rock Creek, Missouri River, and Dry Cottonwood Creek. After detailing the fascinating history of sapphire mining and the geology of these three Montana mining districts, the authors cover the gemological characteristics of secondary Montana sapphire, including a comparison to the characteristics of sapphires from Tanzania. Finally, the article chronicles the heat treatment process of five Montana sapphire samples.
MORPHOLOGY OF COLOMBIAN EMERALD: SOME LESS COMMON CASES AND THEIR GROWTH AND DISSOLUTION HISTORY
Dr. Karl Schmetzer and Gérard Martayan investigate the morphological features in Colombian emerald to understand their growth and post-growth history. After studying a collection of 15 isolated emerald crystals and seven specimens in matrix using optical methods, the authors offer insight into the different patterns, including possible relationships to trapiche emeralds and those exhibiting the gota de aceite effect.
LAB NOTES
GIA’s global laboratory staff present their latest findings in the Lab Notes section, including a Libyan Desert glass bangle bracelet, a collection of pearls treated to look antique, and the largest faceted synthetic rutile examined at GIA to date.
MICRO-WORLD
The Micro-World section, dedicated to the inner world of gemstones, highlights a three-phase inclusion in alexandrite, a garnet inclusion resembling a flying insect in diamond, a series of negative crystals arranged in an arrow-like pattern in sapphire, and more.
DIAMOND REFLECTIONS
Diamond Reflections returns in this issue, providing a look at plastic deformation, one of the most prevalent features in natural diamond.
GEM NEWS INTERNATIONAL
Finally, the Gem News International section starts with our coverage of the 2023 Tucson gem shows, including the latest trends, market and mining updates, as well as handcrafted designs and unique specimens from all over the world. The GNI section continues with more noteworthy content, including reports of pearls from the UAE, Bahrain, and Chile and a color study of fancy sapphire from Greenland.
The Spring issue also contains the 2023 Gems & Gemology Challenge quiz. Score 75% or better and you’ll receive a certificate of completion (PDF file); earn a perfect score and your name will be listed in the Fall 2023 issue. Online entries for the Challenge must be submitted by Friday, September 1, 2023. @chapter:2 @chapter:0 @chapter:2


# Publication Year: 2011
# Title: Exploring the Origin and Nature of Luminescent Regions in CVD Synthetic Diamond
# Abstract: In the DiamondView instrument, blue to blue-green luminescent zones may be seen in CVD synthetic diamond when the growth run has been interrupted and resumed, a well-known practice in the production of gem-quality CVD synthetics. DiamondView, photoluminescence (PL), and cathodoluminescence (CL) imaging were applied to study the origin and nature of these luminescent regions in two samples of high-purity single-crystal CVD synthetic diamond. DiamondView and PL measurements showed a correlation with silicon-related centers. In addition, CL analysis confirmed the presence of boron. Both silicon and boron showed preferential incorporation at the interface between CVD layers, where a higher uptake of impurities lead to the observed luminescence. Although the growth interruptions cannot be detected with the naked eye, the growth history can be determined accurately using luminescence imaging and spectroscopy techniques. @chapter:9 @chapter:1 @chapter:9


# Publication Year: 2021
# Title: “Floating Flower” Inclusions in Aventurine Quartz Bangle
# Abstract: Figure 1. Bangles of similar appearance fashioned from different materials: jadeite jade (left), albite (center), and aventurine quartz (right, client sample). All exhibit green “floating flower” inclusions. Photos by Lai Tai-An Gem Lab.
While gemologists use data to identify a gem, consumers can only judge the identity of an object by its appearance, which may lead to differences of opinion in the market. The identification of the material is not difficult for labs, but the present case is a good example of the misunderstandings that can happen outside of a gem lab. A recent submission highlighted this situation. A difference of opinion between a seller and buyer over the identity of a bangle resulted from the appearance created by “floating flower” features (akin to falling blossoms) visible with the unaided eye. One party believed the features were more consistent with icy jadeite jade, while the other thought they were more in keeping with albite. Analysis in our laboratory proved neither was correct.

Figure 2. FTIR (top) and Raman (bottom) spectroscopy confirmed the client’s bangle was
fashioned from aventurine quartz. Peaks observed in the FTIR spectra (main peaks at 1176,
1089, and 480 cm–1) and Raman spectra (main peak at 463 cm–1) did not match those expected
for albite or jadeite jade. FTIR and Raman spectra of aventurine quartz were collected from the
client’s sample; spectra of albite and jadeite jade were from the author’s database.
The object weighed approximately 37 g and measured 72 × 10 mm, and it appeared semitransparent to transparent with a white bodycolor incorporating light green to green inclusions (right photo in figure 1). A spot RI of around 1.54 was obtained, together with an SG of approximately 2.66. Both excluded jadeite jade as a candidate, but albite was still an option. Further examination by FTIR absorbance and Raman spectroscopy (785 nm laser) ruled out albite and confirmed the material was aventurine quartz (figure 2). Typically, aventurine quartz is not as transparent as the material from which the bangle was fashioned, and this contributed to the misidentification as “jadeite jade,” especially given the presence of the green “floating flower” inclusions.

Figure 3. Left: The disorderly, flaky green mineral inclusions were clearly visible in the bangle. Field of view 5.5 mm. Right: The green inclusions appeared red through a Chelsea filter when illuminated by strong daylight illumination. Photos by Lai Tai-An Gem Lab.
Further examination of the disorderly green mineral inclusions (figure 3, left) using a Chelsea filter revealed a distinct red color under strong daylight illumination—characteristic of fuchsite mica (figure 3, right).
In the past, clients have mistaken highly translucent albite containing “floating flower” inclusions as jadeite jade, and vice versa. This particular case proves that the same misidentification may apply to examples of highly translucent aventurine quartz containing inclusions often observed in jadeite jade and albite. @chapter:12 @chapter:0 @chapter:12


# Publication Year: 1991
# Title: Spring 1991 Gem News International
# Abstract: Tucson ‘91
            Show Exhibits of Note
Diamonds
            Colored Diamonds
            Gem-Quality Synthetic Diamonds from the USSR
Colored Stones
            Madagascar Apatite
            Interesting Bead Materials
            Cat's-Eye Beryllonite
            Large Clinohumite
            Update on Corundum
            Unusual Colored Stone Cuts from Thailand
            Drusy Gems in Jewelry
            Uralian Emeralds
            Morganite from Mozambique
            Brazilian Opal
            Cultured Pearls
            Arizona Peridot
            Bicolored Quartz
            Cat's-Eye Rose Quartz
            Rhodolite from Orissa
            Violet Cat's-Eye Scapolite
            Update on Tanzanite
            Paraiba Tourmaline
            More on Vietnam Gem Finds
Enhancements
            Plastic-Treated Ammonite
            Enhanced Paua Shell
            Colored Opticon for Emeralds
            Heat Treatment of Ruby in Sri Lanka
            More on Diffusion-Treated Sapphires
Synthetics and Simulants
            New Synthetic Alexandrite
            Update on Chatham Production
            More on Synthetic Emeralds
            Man-Made Hematite Simulant
            Imitation Lapis Lazuli
            Gold in Quartz Doublets
            More Soviet Synthetics

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:16 @chapter:0 @chapter:16


# Publication Year: 2018
# Title: Freshwater Natural Pearls from the Concho River, Texas
# Abstract: Figure 1. Nine “Concho” pearls examined in this study together with a Tampico pearlymussel shell. The shell measures approximately 12 × 8 cm. Pearls range from 0.12 to 16.59 cts. Photo by Sood Oil (Judy) Chia.

Throughout history, natural pearls have been found in many species of freshwater mollusk in North American lakes and rivers. They are most abundant within the Mississippi River drainage basin, which provides the perfect habitat for these animals because of the large watershed areas with their underlying limestone substrata (J.L. Sweaney and J.R. Latendresse, “Freshwater pearls of North America,” Fall 1984 G&G, pp. 125–140). Lesser-known sources of natural freshwater pearls are the Colorado River and Brazos River and their tributaries in the state of Texas. However, the best samples are sometimes found in a species named Tampico Pearlymussel (Cyrtonaias tampicoensis) that inhabits the Concho River in West Texas.

The mollusk is distributed from northeastern Mexico into the Concho, Colorado, and Brazos Rivers of central Texas and has been collected by licensed harvesters. Mussel harvesting is restricted to hand collection only, and there is a legal minimum shell size requirement. In addition, several areas in Texas have been designated mussel sanctuaries in order to provide protection and species conservation (R.G. Howells, “The Tampico pearlymussel (Cyrtonaias tampicoensis), shades of the Old West”). Pearlers find mussels by wading into water that is three to four feet deep and feeling for the shells with their toes. Rattlesnakes on the banks and water moccasins and snapping turtles in the murky water (J. Morthland, “Irregular radiance: The rare beauty of Conch River pearls,” Texas Highways, April 2015) pose risks to these adventurers searching for gems.

GIA’s New York laboratory recently received nine loose pearls from Stone Group Laboratories (Jefferson City, Missouri) for a joint study. The pearls ranged in size from 2.95 × 2.45 mm to 14.76 × 13.55 × 13.13 mm. Reportedly recovered from Tampico pearlymussel shells taken from the Concho River, they exhibited colors ranging from purplish pink to orangy pink. Some of the samples also possessed varying degrees of a brownish hue (figure 1). Most of the small pearls in the group exhibited a dull chalky appearance, with some broken or cracked areas of the nacreous surface. The largest pearl in the group (16.59 ct) showed good nacre condition, a high luster, and noticeable orient on its surface.

Figure 2. The pearls’ internal structures showed typical natural concentric growth arcs, while some also exhibited dark organic-rich centers and natural internal cracks.
The internal structures of the pearls were analyzed by real-time microradiography, and the majority revealed typical concentric natural growth arcs (figure 2). Dark organic-rich centers were also seen in some of the pearls, as well as internal fissures, cracks, or growth boundaries. There were no indications of bead nuclei or non-bead cultured features (irregular linear or void structures). Additional advanced techniques such as X-ray fluorescence imaging and energy-dispersive X-ray fluorescence (EDXRF) spectrometry revealed noticeable X-ray luminescence and high manganese content, confirming the pearls’ freshwater origin. Furthermore, Raman spectroscopic analysis of all the pearls detected polyacetylenic compounds (figure 3); these are natural pigments responsible for the colors of many freshwater and some saltwater pearls.

Figure 3. Raman spectrum of a “Concho” pearl showing polyacetylenic pigment-related peaks at 1130 and 1516 cm–1 and peaks at 1086, 704, and 701 cm–1 (the latter two a doublet) of structural calcium carbonate in the form of aragonite.
The study provided GIA with a rare opportunity to study this unique group of freshwater natural pearls originating from the southwestern United States. Both gemological and analytical data were consistent with their claimed natural and freshwater origin. Pearls produced from this locality often possess beautiful fancy pink, purple, or lavender colors (Summer 1989 GNI, p. 115; Fall 2005 Lab Notes, pp. 259–260), as demonstrated by these examples. @chapter:11 @chapter:4 @chapter:11


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Not All That Glitters is Gold — Sometimes it is Mozambican Rubies
# Abstract: Wim Vertriest, supervisor of GIA field gemology, presented his lecture "A Decade of Mozambican Rubies" on Jan. 30, 2020 as part of the GIA Guest Lecture Series. Video Duration: 1:21:10
There was something striking about the talk, “A Decade of Mozambican Rubies,” that Wim Vertriest, head of GIA field gemology, gave at GIA in Carlsbad recently. It’s only in the past 15 years that there has been intense consumer scrutiny of gemstone origins. Previously, unless a stone was from a legendary locale, such as Kashmir for sapphires, origin was largely ignored.
Vertriest’s talk, however, dove deep into rubies from a new and lesser known locale — Mozambique — focusing on their mining history, characteristics and market demand. Throw in some tips on field gemology from GIA’s “viking” gemologist, Vertriest, and the talk was good as gold.

These rubies (1.07-4.62 ct) are from Northern Mozambique. Photo by Robert Weldon/ GIA. Courtesy of Tommy Wu, Shire Trading Ltd., Hong Kong.
Mozambican Ruby Discovery
Mozambican rubies, unheard of a decade ago, have become the most common ruby in the international marketplace since their discovery in 2008. Mozambican rubies now make up a significant part of the rubies sold at major trade shows.

A group of garimpeiros, or mineral prospectors, mining in the bush surrounding Montepuez. Photo by Vincent Pardieu/GIA.
Timeline from Discovery to Present
2008 ‒ The first confirmed ruby is found at the Niassa Reserve, an area set apart for wildlife such as lions and elephants. Its protected status doesn’t stop artisanal miners from flocking to the site, however. Mining virtually ends in summer 2009 when water sources dry up and miners are forced to leave.
2009 ‒ Rubies are discovered next to a highway near the town of Montepuez. Tens of thousands of artisanal miners flock to the site. Within a year, international traders start acquiring rubies in the towns near the mines. Stones are brought to cutting and trading centers like Bangkok, making Montepuez the dominant source of rubies for the Thai ruby trade.
2014 ‒ Mwiriti Limitada, which owns a significant number of mining licenses around Montepuez, partners with the natural resource company Gemfields to form MRM. The first rubies are exported following government-approved processes.
2020 ‒ In less than a decade, ruby mining has transformed from 100 percent artisanal to largely formalized. But even though several companies have set up large-scale ruby mining operations in Mozambique, there still remains many artisanal miners.

Maninge Nice-type rubies (here, up to 17 mm) are typically a deep red with strong fluorescence but also flat and highly-included. Photo by Vincent Pardieu/GIA.
Mozambican Ruby Quality
Mozambique produces two main types of rubies: Maninge Nice (known as Bor Daeng in Thai) and Mugloto (Bor Som in Thai). The names of these terms come from the names of the most productive mines in the Montepuez area.
Maninge Nice rubies have brilliant color, intense saturation and strong fluorescence. But they also tend to be flat in shape and heavily-fractured, yielding smaller rubies when cut. Fractured stones are treated through flux healing to improve their appearance and durability. This process entails heating the stones in the presence of borax, which allows fractures to heal.
Mugloto rubies are bulkier in shape and have fewer fractures than Maninge Nice rubies. They tend to have darker tones and weaker fluorescence, however. Mugloto stones sometimes require heat treatment to remove blue overtones and give the stones livelier color. Detecting this low temperature treatment is challenging and often requires advanced instruments.

Amphiboles are common mineral inclusions in Mozambican rubies, Vertriest explained during his presentation. Photomicrograph field of view 1.32 mm. Photo by Jonathan Muyal/GIA.
GIA in Mozambique
Vertriest’s expertise in rubies comes from years on the field with GIA, collecting research samples in Africa, Asia and Europe. Purchasing gems near its production site is the most foolproof way of ensuring that the stones GIA studies are actually from that locale. According to Vertriest, “if you don’t go, you don’t know.”
The most reliable samples are Type A, which are samples mined directly by the gemologist.“I go to the mine, hit a rock, 10-carat ruby comes out,” Vertriest said.
The other types of classification beyond that are qualified by how the gemologist collects them:

Type B ‒ the gemologist witnesses the samples being mined
Type C ‒ samples are purchased from a miner at the mining site
Type D ‒ samples are purchased from a miner but not onsite
Type E ‒ samples are purchased from a secondary source (not the miner) close to the mine
Type F ‒ samples are purchased from a secondary source on the international market

Most of the samples that GIA collects are Type D or E, supported by types A, B and C when available. The research done on these gemstones goes towards supporting GIA’s colored stone identification and origin reports.

Aaron Palke, senior research scientist at GIA (left), and Vertriest sort through gem gravel in Mogok, Myanmar, in December 2018. Photo by Kevin Schumacher/GIA.
How to Become a Field Gemologist
Vertriest has a master's degree in geology with a focus in geodynamics and geofluids, a Graduate Gemologist degree from GIA and a diploma in gemmology from the Gemmological Association of Great Britain.
When asked by a student which degree is the most useful, however, Vertriest answered “common sense.”
“Field gemology isn’t a trade you just jump into,” he said. “It’s a trade that gemologists grow into through extensive travelling, asking the right questions and working on a research team or as a gem grader. An advanced degree in geology, chemistry or physics is also a must, since field gemologists are part of GIA’s research department.”
Vertriest’s tools of the trade include a loupe (indispensable, he said) and a gem torch, although he admits a flashlight or even a phone light might work just as well. Having a reliable source of light helps him determine the quality of a stone.
“Traders often sell rubies under pink umbrellas and sapphires under blue roofing; these conditions really enhance the appearance of stones and can make them look better than they actually are,” he said. “Having a torch (or a flashlight) also helps when examining gems in dim locations or when it’s dark out.”
When asked why he works at GIA, Vertriest answered that working for GIA opens many doors. It allows him to go to large scale mines and artisanal mining sites as well as gem trading offices to study rubies and other gemstones.
“When I go, it’s not, ‘Hi, Wim here.’ It’s ‘Hi, GIA here.’ Once I lose that badge, half the doors close,” he said.
GIA is an incredible resource, he said. GIA’s lab and research departments host some of the field’s greatest researchers who are engaged in some of the most pressing gem issues of the time. In other sectors, field researchers have to rely on external analytical services and wait months for data. Because GIA has its own analytical department, however, Vertriest can request a complicated analysis in the morning and get results after lunch.
The gem trade is exciting when working with GIA, Vertriest said, but prospecting on your own can be “an incredible gamble.” @chapter:40 @chapter:0 @chapter:40


# Publication Year: 1998
# Title: Russian Synthetic Pink Quartz
# Abstract: Transparent crystals of facet-grade synthetic pink quartz, produced by hydrothermal growth from a fluoride solution and subsequent treatment, have been commercially available since 1994. The characteristic properties that distinguish this material from its natural counterpart are a tabular crystal morphology with two large, well-developed basal faces; color bands parallel to the basal faces and the seed plate; two-phase inclusions adjacent and perpendicular to the seed plate; and an intense broad band around 3420 cm-1 in the infrared spectrum. Color stability and cause of color in synthetic pink quartz are briefly discussed. @chapter:26 @chapter:0 @chapter:26


# Publication Year: 1992
# Title: Summer 1992 G&G Lab Notes
# Abstract: Heat-Damaged Filled Diamond
Large Chameleon-Type Diamond
Treated "Black" Diamond
Emerald Imitation: Yag
Glass Imitations of Various Gems
Black Pearls from Baja California
Treated Black Mabes
"Geneva [Synthetic] Ruby"
Durability of Heat-Treated Sapphire
Identifying Curved Striae in Yellow Synthetic Sapphire

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:43 @chapter:1 @chapter:43


# Publication Year: 2018
# Title: Wollastonite in Devitrified Glass Imitating Horsetail Inclusions in Demantoid Garnet
# Abstract: Figure 1. A yellowish green glass with numerous wollastonite needles radiating from the center, similar to the horsetail inclusions found in demantoid garnets. Photomicrograph by Ungkhana Atikarnsakul; field of view 14.4 mm.

A 13.12 ct transparent yellowish green gemstone with a beautiful internal scene was examined by the author. The specimen exhibited numerous elongated colorless crystals radiating from the center (figure 1), much like the horsetail inclusions of chrysotile that one would expect to find in Russian demantoid garnets. Standard gemological testing yielded surprising results: a single refractive index of 1.520, specific gravity of 2.50, and medium chalky green fluorescence under short-wave UV light. The specimen was inert to long-wave UV light. These properties indicated that the yellowish green cabochon stone was glass, whereas the masses of needle-like crystals (figure 2) were identified as calcium silicate wollastonite by Raman spectroscopy. Wollastonite inclusions have been reported as an indicator of the devitrification process (Winter 2017 Micro-World, pp. 469–470).

Figure 2. Close-up view of the wollastonite crystals. Photomicrograph by Ungkhana Atikarnsakul; field of view 4.8 mm.
Other advanced techniques, including energy-dispersive X-ray fluorescence (EDXRF) and Fourier-transform infrared (FTIR) and Raman spectroscopy, were also carried out to confirm the cabochon’s identity. FTIR and Raman spectroscopy showed a distinct and characteristic pattern of artificial glass. The nonquantitative EDXRF offers no additional value, as the elements detected are also present in demantoid garnets.
Although this is not the first time that wollastonite inclusions have been found in devitrified glasses, they formed in an interesting pattern in this yellowish green gemstone. @chapter:15 @chapter:0 @chapter:15


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Spring 2020 G&G Available Now
# Abstract: After being delayed by the global pandemic, the Spring 2020 edition of Gems & Gemology is available now. This issue features two articles that quantitatively analyze the causes of color in corundum and blue to yellow beryl, respectively, with a focus on chromophores. It also offers an exciting look back at the evolution of jade carving craftsmanship in China, the rediscovery and early production of the Chivor emerald mine, an analysis of Swiss rhodonite, coverage of the Tuscon gem shows, and more.
A Quantitative Description of the Causes of Color in Corundum
The lead article, by Emily Dubinsky and co-authors, investigates the quantitative relationship between corundum’s color and chemistry. Using quantitative visible absorption spectroscopy and chemical analysis by SIMS, the authors are able to calculate the absorption cross section of six major chromophores that cause a wide array of color in corundum. Data is presented in the form of spectra and color circles.
The Evolution of Chinese Jade Carving Craftsmanship
China’s oldest and most important art form, jade carving, is steeped in history going back thousands of years. Mingying Wang and Guanghai Shi explore the evolution of jade carving tools and their impact on carving craftsmanship. With advancements in technology, jade carving has increased in complexity and delicacy while still reflecting Chinese philosophy and culture.
Color Characteristics of Blue to Yellow Beryl from Multiple Origins
Yang Hu and Ren Lu use quantitative spectroscopy and trace-element analytical techniques to study color characteristics and chromophores in blue to yellow beryl. This article also discusses the complex roles alkali ions and water have in beryl, though their influence on the blue to yellow color was found to be indirect.
History of the Chivor Emerald Mine, Part I (1880-1925): From Rediscovery to Early Production
Karl Schmetzer and co-authors dig deep into the history of the Chivor emerald mine in the first part of a two-part article. Their extensive research seeks to clarify historical inconsistencies, starting with the rediscovery of the site by Colombian mining engineer Francisco Restrepo, to mining title transfers and mining company formations, the impact of World War I, and the eventual bankruptcy of the Colombian Emerald Syndicate, Ltd.
Rhodonite-Pyroxmangite from Tanatz Alp, Switzerland
Swiss rhodonite is typically used to make cabochons, beads, and ornamental objects. Franca Caucia and co-authors analyze the chemical, physical, and gemological properties of this pale pink to purplish pink material. Rhodonite deposits can be found all over the world and have been widely investigated, but material from the Tanatz Alp is less well known.
Lab Notes
GIA laboratory staff members present their latest findings in the Lab Notes section, including the “Matryoshka” diamond from Siberia, corundum inclusions in diamond, an “electronic device” in an atypical bead cultured pearl, and the use of fluorescence spectroscopy for colored pearl treatment screening.
Micro-World
The Micro-World section, dedicated to the inner world of gemstones, features reversible twinning in neodymium pentaphosphate, a pallasitic peridot with iridescent needles, and sapphire with a phenomenon resembling play-of-color.
Diamonds from the Deep
Karen Smit and Steven Shirey examine the dissolution features that occur on diamond during storage in the mantle and transport to the earth’s surface. These unique surface features, influenced by the composition and temperature of the dissolving fluid/melt, help scientists better understand when diamond grows or dissolves.
Gem News International
Finally, GNI correspondents from around the world report on the Tucson 2020 gem shows, sapphires from Montana and Australia, sunstone from Ethiopia, and the new mineral dutrowite, named after well-known researcher, professor, and GIA governor Barbara Dutrow.
The Spring issue also contains the 2020 Gems & Gemology Challenge. Score 75% or better and you’ll receive a certificate of completion (PDF file); earn a perfect score and your name will be listed in the Fall 2020 issue. Online entries for the Challenge must be submitted by Friday, October 9, 2020. @chapter:51 @chapter:0 @chapter:51


# Publication Year: 1981
# Title: A Simple Approach to Detecting Diamond Simulants
# Abstract: This article offers a step-by-step approach to the identification of the most problematic diamond simulants. The optical and physical properties of diamond are contrasted to those of colorless strontium titanate, synthetic cubic zirconia, gadolinium gallium garnet, and yttrium aluminum garnet. If the testing methods discussed in this article are used, none of the above materials should be mistaken for diamond. @chapter:36 @chapter:1 @chapter:36


# Publication Year: -
# Title: GIA Grad Makes Headline-Grabbing Fancy Diamond Buys
# Abstract: Shmulik Polnauer, GG, admires the 1.68 ct Prosperity Pink diamond. Polnauer has won more than 40 diamonds from Rio Tinto’s Argyle Pink Diamond Tender in the last five years. Photo courtesy Leibish & Co.

                      Plenty of customers step up to the counter to purchase diamonds every year, but when Shmulik Polnauer does, it often earns him headlines.

To be fair, Polnauer is not exactly the average jewelry consumer – he’s a GIA Graduate Gemologist and the 33-year-old chief diamond buyer for Israel’s Leibish & Co. He has won more than 40 pink diamonds from Rio Tinto’s Argyle Pink Diamond Tender alone in the last five years; his recent purchases also including the newsmaking 1.68 carat (ct) Prosperity Pink, the 2.02 ct Pink Promise and the 3.37 ct Purple Orchid – offered at $1 million, $1.5 million and $4 million, respectively.

	The Pink Promise as a 4.96 ct rough (left) and a 2.02 ct. finished, cushion-shaped Fancy Vivid Purplish Pink diamond (right). Shmulik Polnauer won the diamond, which was found in South Africa’s KAO mine, at the Fusion Tender in Antwerp in November 2012. “We spent over four months assessing and then polishing” the stone, Polnauer says. The Pink Promise, offered at $1.5 million at the 2013 Hong Kong International Jewelry Show, sold the same week. Photo courtesy Leibish & Co.
Polnauer, a veteran of the Israeli Defense Force, has made of career of learning to analyze diamonds and “see beyond the stone.”

“I try to identify the smallest, most minute details that enable us to improve the color, cut and sometimes the clarity of the stones,” he says.

Polnauer’s father, Leibish Polnauer, began his own gem and jewelry career in the 1970s, working his way from diamond polisher to salesman before opening his own firm – Leibish & Co. – in Ramat Gan, Israel, in 1979. Shmulik Polnauer would often tag along with his father to work, and as a young man, worked summers in the family business.

	Shmulik Polnauer (left), Leibish & Company’s chief diamond buyer, and his father,
	Leibish Polnauer. The elder Polnauer founded his namesake company in Ramat Gan,
	Israel, in 1979. Photo courtesy Leibish & Co.
After serving as an officer in the Israeli Defense Force, Polnauer returned home and joined Leibish & Co., which focuses on natural fancy colored diamonds. He found that the more he worked with the stones, the more he wanted to learn – and his familiarity with the diamond trade meant he was also well-acquainted with GIA and the value of its diamond grading reports.

“I saw my future in diamonds,” he says, “and understood that with the right education, at the best gemological institution in the world, I would be able to increase my chances of success.”

Just a year after joining the family business, Polnauer took a six-month leave to study at GIA’s London campus – where he was “pleasantly surprised” at the rigor and challenge of the gemology coursework, which was even “more educational and professional” than he expected, especially for someone with a previous background in diamonds.

“It was quite challenging,” Polnauer says. “I gained a much better and clearer understanding of individual diamond characteristics, and a significant amount of knowledge about gemstones, too.”

Polnauer graduated from GIA with his GG diploma in 2004.

“Without any doubt whatsoever, having completed the GIA coursework, I felt 100 percent more confident when dealing with diamonds, and more comfortable working in the trade,” he says. “Having a better understanding of the product enables you to seek out the right stones for purchase and compare them to other options available on the market.”

Polnauer, who lives in Rechovet, Israel, with his wife, Rinat, and three children, realized early in his career that he was most intrigued with the “magic” of fancy colored diamonds, and enjoyed recognizing “underappreciated stones” and their potential for improvement. He says that knowing the market well is crucial to his – or anyone’s – success in the gem and jewelry industry, as well as learning to think a few steps ahead.

He advises incoming GIA students to follow a similar course.

“Figure out specifically what interests you, focus on your specialty, invest your time in learning the market,” he says. “And clear your schedule. Because GIA is serious work.”

	Shmulik Polnauer won the Prosperity Pink Diamond (left) at the 2011 Argyle Pink Diamond Tender as a 1.71 ct, Fancy Intense Purplish Pink, radiant-cut diamond. After deciding to repolish the stone to improve its color intensity, Polnauer brought the Prosperity Pink to a 1.68 ct, Fancy Vivid Purplish Pink. It was offered for $1 million. The Purple Orchid (right), offered for $4 million at the 2014 Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair, came from a South African mine and weighed 4-plus carats. Polnauer bought the rough stone in India and transformed it to a 3.37 ct, Fancy Intense Pinkish Purple VS2 diamond. Photo courtesy Leibish & Co. @chapter:49 @chapter:3 @chapter:49


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Gemologist Sets Her Sights on Social Justice, Healthy Business
# Abstract: Alethe Fatherley, pictured here with a few of the children she met in Tanzania, returned home to the United States with a vision to recognize people as the gem and jewelry industry’s most valuable resource. Courtesy Alethe Fatherley

                      At first glance, the pendant looks like a simple tool ‒ a water pump ‒ fashioned of silver, hanging from a delicate chain.

But this pendant is no mere accessory: it symbolizes one gemologist’s vision to revolutionize the jewelry industry by recognizing people as its “most precious resource.”

Alethe Fatherley, executive director of Jewelers for Water, hasn’t always tried to link social justice with the jewelry industry – in fact, the idea of encouraging an industry that’s both responsible and profitable has only crystallized for the East Coast-based gemologist in the last several years.

	Jewelers for Water’s sterling silver necklace, left, designed by Thomas Kurilla and manufactured by Hoover & Strong, was inspired by a water pump, right. Sold by local, brick-and-mortar jewelry stores on the East Coast, proceeds from sales of the necklace benefit Jewelers for Water’s clean water projects. Photo by Thomas Kurilla, courtesy Jewelers for Water
The daughter of Jamaican immigrants, Fatherley moved to the United States when she was 8 years old. She was deciding on her next step after she graduated from high school in 1991, when her godmother, a buyer in Tiffany & Co.’s Paloma Picasso department, suggested she apply at the New York headquarters.

The eager-to-learn 19-year-old was hired for a temporary clerical job with Tiffany’s, and shortly after landed a merchandise assistant position in the firm’s diamond-buying office.

“I knew I wanted more than an entry-level position,” she says. “I also became more interested in learning about diamonds, because the Tiffany’s sales professionals had very high expectations, even for a teenager.”

The salespeople often quizzed their new hire, holding up GIA diamond grading reports and asking Fatherley to explain them and describe the stone’s clarity characteristics. “When I wasn’t able to, I could hear the frustration in their voices,” she says. “So I began to insist I attend GIA with almost every evaluation I had with my boss. I just kept asking.”

Fatherley’s persistence paid off; she was eventually cleared to study at the Institute’s 47th Street campus in New York City.

“I loved it ‒ finally, I felt like I was doing something I really enjoyed,” she says. “I still recall the bounce in my step after GIA, just embracing my walk down Fifth Avenue.”

Fatherley earned her GG diploma in 1999, but she knew it was just the beginning if she wanted a career that lasted. She joined the GIA Alumni Association and set out to learn sales, marketing, wholesale – and, after a 13-year career there, the industry outside of Tiffany & Co.’s walls.

She taught gemology at New York’s Fashion Institute of Technology, and worked for David Yurman, H. Stern, and Lazare Kaplan International, where she sold loose stones. At Lazare Kaplan, conversations often referred to the firm’s cutting facilities in Namibia.

“I became interested in Africa and simply wanted to learn more about the people,” she says.

That desire to learn more soon turned into something much deeper. Fatherley researched nonprofit organizations and settled on Cross Cultural Solutions, a non-governmental organization. Her supervisor at Lazare Kaplan granted her a three-week leave from work, allowing Fatherley to travel to Moshi Town, Tanzania and serve as a kindergarten teacher at Kilimahewa school. The makeshift classroom where she taught was set up in the home of a pupil’s parents.

The stark contrast between the world of luxury jewelry and the lives of people in Tanzania moved her deeply, and quickly. Fatherley returned home just weeks later with an entirely new perspective, and founded Jewelers that Care in 2009. The goal of her nonprofit is to “energize development projects,” such as schools and water wells, through donations and partnerships with other aid groups. (The organization’s name changed to the more focused Jewelers for Water this spring).

	Alethe Fatherley took a three-week leave from her job with Lazare Kaplan International
	to teach kindergarteners at Kilimahewa school in Moshi Town, Tanzania. Courtesy Alethe Fatherley
“When we examine the serious issues facing Africa and rural villages around the globe, we find ourselves making a full circle back to the issues of a lack of clean water and education,” she says. “We believe this contributes to the root of other problems, including HIV/AIDS, crimes against women and children, and other serious issues.

“I wanted to help within my capacity. But the stories of poverty are difficult to tell ‒ and difficult to sell,” she says. “I had to come up with creative ways to get people interested.”

Fatherley - who also earned degrees from the American Gem Society, Fashion Institute of Technology and SUNY’s Empire State college – developed deep relationships in the jewelry industry, and became what she calls “something of a recruiter,” helping friends and colleagues from all aspects of the industry make professional connections in exchange for support of the charity.

Jewelers for Water is focused on building water wells and collaborates with many like-minded professionals in the industry. The water pump necklace, for example, was designed by Thomas Kurilla, manufactured by Hoover & Strong, and is sold exclusively by a handful of local, brick-and-mortar jewelry stores on the East Coast, with proceeds benefitting Jewelers for Water’s water pump projects. The group also created an annual awards ceremony at JCK that honors jewelers addressing humanitarian issues.

Fatherley, who lives in Fairfield, Connecticut with her husband, Christopher, runs Jewelers for Water while caring for the couple’s 4-year-old son, Gordon, and 2-year-old daughter, Marisa.

“My dream and my long-term goal is to collaborate with our industry in the most sensible way that benefits us as an industry, as well as  the people living in rural villages,” she says. “I want our industry to shine by contributing to the communities that keep us going.” @chapter:47 @chapter:3 @chapter:47


# Publication Year: 2023
# Title: The history of gemstones in Chanthaburi_24
# Abstract: Back then, during that era, buying gemstones for 5 to 10 baht and selling them could yield profits of 3,000 to 4,000 baht. This profit margin was consideredsubstantial at the time, as even selling a few gems could bring significant returns. @chapter:31 @chapter:2 @chapter:31


# Publication Year: 2012
# Title: The Vallerano Diamond from Ancient Rome: A Scientific Study
# Abstract: Archaeological excavations during the 1990s at Vallerano, a municipality on Rome’s southern periphery, uncovered a cemetery from the Roman empire. One tomb was that of a young woman, believed to be of Syrian origin. It contained a wealth of everyday objects and jewels, among them a gold and diamond ring. The diamond’s gemological and spectroscopic properties were examined using portable instruments. Infrared spectroscopy indicated a type Ia diamond with evidence of B aggregates and probable A aggregates. @chapter:21 @chapter:1 @chapter:21


# Publication Year: 2024
# Title: Butterfly Brooch Showcasing East African Gems
# Abstract: This colorful 18K gold butterfly brooch designed by Pietro DiBenedetto features 49 East African colored gems, accompanied by colorless and yellow diamonds. Photo by Robert Weldon; courtesy of Akiva Gil & Co.
At the AGTA show, Andrew Rosenblatt, company spokesperson for Akiva Gil (New York City), showed us a magnificent butterfly brooch featuring colored stones from East Africa (see above). Notably, Akiva Gil was among the first to acquire spinel and raspberry rhodolite from Tanzania in the early 2000s. Joseph Gil collaborated with the late master jeweler Pietro DiBenedetto to develop a piece that would showcase the beautiful array of colors from this part of the world.
The resulting brooch contains fine-quality green tsavorite (17.98 carats total), yellow grossular (0.98 carats total), and orange mandarin garnets (10.15 carats total) alongside pink spinel (15.00 carats total) and fancy-color sapphire (8.47 carats total). These are accented by 1.60 carats of yellow and colorless diamonds. This piece highlights the wide range of colored gem varieties in highly desirable hues that East Africa contributes to the gem trade today. @chapter:28 @chapter:2 @chapter:28


# Publication Year: 2020
# Title: Occurrence of Petrified Woods in the Russian Far East: Gemology and Origin
# Abstract: Figure 1. Marble polar bear with silver fish on a petrified opalized wood stand. Photo by Svetlana Kultenko; courtesy of Anton Akulenko.

Petrified woods are used all over the world as an excellent material for souvenirs, jewelry, and spectacular collectible pieces. A new occurrence of petrified wood was discovered in 2014 in the Primorsky Krai region of the Russian Far East, near the village of Kiparisovo. The fossils were found in the northwestern part of a sand and gravel quarry, at the contact of rhyolitic volcanic ash tuffs and basalts overlapping them. The sample sizes varied from several centimeters to two meters.
Local jewelers started using the wood fossils as stands for souvenirs (figure 1) and polished collectible samples. The petrified wood appeared in regional jewelry stores and attracted Chinese tourists’ attention, creating demand for the raw material from China’s market.

Figure 2. Cabochons of petrified wood from the Russian Far East. Photo by Dmitrii G. Fedoseev.
More than a hundred samples were studied at the Analytical Center of the Far Eastern Geological Institute of the Far Eastern Branch of the Russian Academy of Sciences (FEGI FEB RAS). We examined the mineral composition, structure, and gemological characteristics using standard gemological equipment, a Nikon E100 POL optical microscope, and a MiniFlex2 X-ray diffractometer (XRD). Several examples of petrified wood were found: white, yellowish, marble-like, chalcedony-like, banded, banded chalcedony-like with brownish growth rings, partially carbonized, and black coalified (figure 2).

Figure 3. Top: Schematic cross section of a conifer’s trunk showing the transection (A), radial section (B), tangential section (C), annual ring (AR), resin ducts (RD), wood rays (WR), bordered pits (BP), and middle lamellae (ML). Bottom left: Transection of petrified wood with wood rays (horizontal lines), resin ducts, and annual ring; field of view 5.5 mm. Bottom center: Radial section of petrified wood with wood rays (horizontal lines) and tracheids with bordered pits (round-shaped); field of view 2.7 mm. Bottom right: Tangential section of petrified wood with chains of middle lamellae; field of view 5.5 mm. Photomicrographs by Dmitrii G. Fedoseev.
The refractive indices of polished plates ranged from 1.40 to 1.54 in different areas and corresponded to chalcedony, opal, and quartz. Luminescence was weak bluish or greenish under short-wave UV; most samples were inert under long-wave UV. Samples had a fibrous cellular structure. The shape of the cells (tracheids) was angular, rectangular, and sometimes subsquare (figure 3, bottom left). The transections of the samples showed very narrow single-row horizontal wood rays. Vertical resin ducts that looked like white dots were located in the latewood area of the annual rings (vertical dark band) (figure 3, bottom left). On the radial sections of the samples, we observed wood rays (horizontal lines) and bordered pits (round-shaped pores) (figure 3, bottom center). Middle lamellae (chains-like cells) were seen on a tangential section of petrified wood (figure 3, bottom right).
The absence of vessels, the unique type of wood rays and tracheids with bordered pits, the character of the middle lamellae, and the presence of vertical resin ducts indicated that these samples belonged to coniferous plants. X-ray diffraction analysis showed that all the varieties of petrified wood had an opal-cristobalite-tridymite composition.
The geology of the area allowed us to imagine the formation conditions. As a result of catastrophic volcanic eruptions of rhyolitic magmas as glowing ash clouds, and late effusions of mantle magmas, thick layers of volcanic ash and overlapping basalt flows were formed. The basalt lava flows outpoured into the water basin with a temperature exceeding 1000°C. Lavas overlapped the flooded trunks and thick bottom sediments of ash silts. When the basalt melt came into contact with water, the surface of the lava flow instantly quenched with the formation of pillow lavas. The space between the pillow lavas was filled with clastic glassy rocks known as hyaloclastites.

Figure 4. Left: Part of a petrified wood. Right: Opalized petrified wood sample with play-of-color. Photos by Dmitrii G. Fedoseev.
Thus, the flooded trees were under the hyaloclastites and pillow lavas. Some trees, under the weight of a lava flow, had taken a vertical position. Some trunks that sunk in hyaloclasts were charred, while trunks in ash silts remained unchanged. During silicification, the charred parts of the trunks acquired a black color and the uncharred parts became white, light yellow, to brownish (figure 4). Buried trees underwent strong deformation with flattening of the trunks, splitting, and fragmentation of wood.
The main source of silica when replacing the cells of trees by quartz or opal was ash silts. This was promoted by a low-alkaline water-saturated volcanic ash with a high SiO2 content (over 72 wt.%). The silicon-containing aqueous solutions penetrated woods that, under anaerobic conditions, represented local geochemical barriers where precipitation of free silica replacing plant cells occurred. Depending on the concentration of silicon in the solution in plant cells, the deposition of opal, chalcedony, or quartz occurred. The foregoing description allows us to imagine a majestic picture of how Nature created this wonderful combination of the worlds of plants and stones. @chapter:1 @chapter:0 @chapter:1


# Publication Year: 2013
# Title: Rare Double-Trapiche Emerald
# Abstract: The term “trapiche,” named after the Spanish word for the spoked wheel used to grind sugar cane, describes a very special growth phenomenon. Basic components usually include a six-ray star radiating from the center of the stone, a clear or dark hexagonal core at the center, and a transition between the core and the outer sectored crystal. It is commonly associated with emerald, but trapiche corundum, tourmaline, quartz, and andalusite are also found (T. Hainschwang et al., “Trapiche tourmaline from Zambia, Spring 2007 G&G, pp. 36–46). For the past 40 years, gemologists have tried to interpret this phenomenon, proposing theories that involve different growth rates and growth conditions.

Figure 1. These rare double-trapiche emerald slices, about 1.77 ct each, are from Muzo, Columbia. Courtesy of Equatorian Imports Inc. Photo by Eric Welch.
At the AGTA show, Equatorian Imports showed this contributor two pieces of emerald with a very rare double-trapiche pattern. They weighed about 1.77 ct each, and according to the dealer they are from Muzo, Columbia. Instead of a six-ray star, twelve arms radiated from the center of the stone (figure 1). There was no core at the center. The twelve-ray star appeared to be composed of two six-ray stars shifted slightly from each other. All the rays had a dendritic appearance, with some of them intertwined. Unlike previously reported trapiches, these two specimens displayed at least three growth sectors. The formation of this double-trapiche pattern was most unusual. @chapter:5 @chapter:0 @chapter:5


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Spring 1992 G&G Lab Notes
# Abstract: Calcareous Concretion from the Bailer Shell
Diamond with Aggregate Crystallization
Faceted Black Diamond Dice
Fire Damaged Diamond
Green Diamond with Natural Surface Color
Emerald Inclusions
Imitation Lapis Lazuli
Opal with Natural Cellular Structure
Unusual Polynesian Cultured Pearls
Pinite

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:18 @chapter:1 @chapter:18


# Publication Year: 1983
# Title: The Oil Treatment of Emeralds in Bogotá, Colombia
# Abstract: It is well known in the trade that most emeralds on the market today are oiled. This article focuses on Colombian emeralds and gives a detailed explanation of the oiling process as observed by the author. Sophisticated laboratory procedures are compared with common "back porch" methods. The methods used often vary from parcel to parcel, and the success of the treatment depends in part on the experience of the treater, although the process itself appears to be relatively permanent. Observations are also presented on methods of detecting oiling as well as on the use of colored oils. @chapter:18 @chapter:0 @chapter:18


# Publication Year: 2016
# Title: Exhibition Review: Vanishing Beauty: Asian Jewelry and Ritual Objects from the Barbara and David Kipper Collection
# Abstract: Figure 1. Amulet case (gau) with Face of Glory (Kīrtimukha), mid-20th century. Kathmandu Valley, Nepal. Promised gift of Barbara and David Kipper.

	Sweepingly Pan-Asian, Vanishing Beauty: Asian Jewelry and Ritual Objects from the Barbara and David Kipper Collection is currently on exhibit at the Chicago Art Institute. Consisting of more than three hundred objects, the exhibition is part of a promised gift to the museum and focuses largely on marginalized outlying Asian cultures. Encompassing many religions and cultures, artifacts ranging from textiles to elaborate jewels that belonged to monks, officials, and laypeople of all social statuses, it is a dazzling collection of gem-set items.

	The entire Kippers collection is comprised of more than 1300 items, most of it displayed in their Chicago home. “I turned down double the number of items I collected over the years,” said Mrs. Kipper, who is a professional photographer. From the start, her collection was based “on whether something spoke to me in a visceral and visual way, as opposed to any intellectual approach.” As she and her husband David traveled the world, they saw the cultures she had experienced on her first Asian trip in the 1960s giving way to modernity and geopolitical changes. At that point she took on a greater mission: to preserve the artifacts for posterity.

	The Silk Road, the ancient trade route leading from the Mediterranean Sea to China and India, brought gems, pearls, and glass to Asia, where these prized foreign commodities were combined with local material in spiritual and personal objects (figure 1).

	Throughout Asia, turquoise is commonly used in jewelry and ritual objects. About 70% of the gems used in Tibetan jewelry are turquoise, as the material has great spiritual meaning. Tibetan medicine ascribed a range of healing properties to turquoise as well, ranging from an antidote for poisoning to curing liver ailments. In Central Asia, turquoise was a symbol of chastity and purity, and was associated with prosperity, piety, and courage. The turquoise mined in Tibet and China was mostly in shades of green, and was used in jewelry and ritual objects for average folk. The vivid blue variety from Iran was more desirable, and the Persian material takes center stage in many of the more elaborate items for the highborn and powerful. The jantar in figure 2 is one example.

	While most of the items on display combine turquoise with emeralds, sapphires, rubies, amber, coral, carnelian, and pearls, colored glass and plastic beads are featured as well. As rare commodities from the west, their vibrancy and reflective qualities were important to these pieces both for their value and their spiritual potency. Healing, luck, and other protective qualities were ascribed to the various stones. To the Tajik and Uzbek people, coral was was believed to strengthen the eyes and heart and protect against forgetfulness and stomach ailments. And the Prophet Mohammad mentioned that carnelian (also called sard) protects against poverty and insures happiness.

	The metals in which the gems were set were as wide ranging as the cultures; in fact, certain metals were specified in religious texts and traditions. Depending on the use, and the status of the person using it, the metal could be silver, gilt copper, gilt iron, or gold. Whether the metal was cast or chased, granulated or worked in repousse, the craftsmen who created the items were engaged in a holy endeavor, and the most talented gold and silversmiths were highly revered and sought-after.

	A particularly strong assemblage within the collection are the amulet boxes, or gaus, which range from small, simple designs to large and opulent pieces; an example is seen in figure 1. These amulet boxes are common to many, if not most, Asian cultures. The gau is worn around the neck, or sewn or attached to clothing or headwear as a portable shrine, to ward off evil spirits. They may also be used to invoke auspicious spirits, to honor teachers or deities, or to carry religious relics. The Kipper collection is particularly rich in Himalayan gaus, created in gold, silver, iron, and copper, and frequently set with gems.  One gau (again, see figure 1), crafted from filigreed gilt silver, is set with pearls, coral, lapis lazuli, and rubies, and features the auspicious guardian monster Kīrtimukha  (also known as Face of Glory), whose claws delicately hold the natural pearls.

	Another sort of amulet case is the jantar, which is similar to a gau, but without a hollow place for an amulet. The jantar in figure 2, showing a Buddhist goddess, is designed as a necklace for a Nepalese woman who revered this goddess. Carved turquoise is inlaid, alongside bezel-set rubies, corals, pearls, emeralds, and sapphires, with granulation and rope edge details.

Figure 2. Woman's amulet case (jantar) depicting a Buddhist deity, early 19th century. Kathmandu Valley, Nepal. Promised gift of Barbara and David Kipper.

	The Kippers were avid collectors of headdresses from all over Asia; these pieces were executed in a wide variety of materials and diverse imagery. A particularly interesting comparison is made between a grouping of refined Chinese Imperial headwear fashioned in kingfisher feathers, the vibrantly turquoise and indigo creations, and the wildly gaudy silver headdresses of the southwestern Chinese minorities. Both share imagery of flora and fauna, but the rarity of materials used and ultimate expression, as well as their stations in life are quite different.

	There are crowns for Tibetan oracles and priests, as well as ornate crowns for statues, all crafted in gilt copper with elaborate chasing and engraving. A Tantric priest’s crown has pigmented decoration above the abstracted riot of skulls (figure 3). The crown also features skulls, more fearsome with large red glass set into their eyes, offset by decorative placement of flat turquoise ovals. The Repousse gilt copper diadem incorporates floral elements of cabochon ruby centers surrounded by turquoise petals.

Figure 3. Oracle diadem, 19th century, Tibet. Promised gift of Barbara and David Kipper.

	A wide variety of earrings are in the collection, including a pair of Indonesian togé (figure 4). These earrings are made from finely granulated gold to simulate the snakeskin texture of a Naga, the mythological snake deity of rain and fertility. Earrings such as these would be worn by young women of marriageable age

Figure 4. Pair of women's ear studs (togé), early 20th century. Southern Sulawesi or Coastal Borneo, Bugis, Indonesia. Promised gift of Barbara and David Kipper.

	The show is dazzling and informative. The museum’s effort to mount this exhibit took more than a year, involving the services of a gemologist to confirm gem identities, extensive conservation efforts, and photography. The exhibition creates context with film, soundscapes, and vintage photographs to enhance the visitor’s experience. Mrs. Kipper’s own photographs, which show how the items were worn within each culture, are also provided. The curatorial groupings allow wonderful comparisons for this jeweled ethnographic travelogue. Vanishing Beauty is sure to please any visitor, but is especially wonderful for gem lovers.

	After the exhibition ends in August 2016, fifty to sixty items from the Barbara and David Kipper Collection will be on rotating display for the next ten to fifteen years. The Himalayan material will be the first group to be displayed.

Vanishing Beauty: Asian Jewelry and Ritual Objects from the Barbara and David Kipper Collection is on view through Sunday, August 21, 2016. The Art Institute of Chicago, at 111 Michigan Avenue in downtown Chicago, is open daily 10:30–5:00, Thursday until 8:00 p.m. General admission is $25 for adults; admission for seniors, students, and teenagers from 14–17 is $19. Children under 14 are free. @chapter:55 @chapter:2 @chapter:55


# Publication Year: 2014
# Title: Xenotime Inclusion in Yellow Diamond
# Abstract: Diamond inclusions can be analyzed using Raman spectroscopy, ideally when they are close to or breaking the surface. The New York lab recently had the opportunity to study a rare inclusion of xenotime protruding from the surface of a 0.55 ct Fancy Intense yellow diamond (figure 1).

Figure 1. This 0.55 ct yellow diamond contained a rare mineral inclusion of xenotime. Photo by Kyaw Soe Moe.
The yellowish brown inclusion was located in the pavilion near the girdle; radiation stains were observed at the contact area with the host diamond (figure 2, inset). Radiation stains and the nature of the surface penetration suggested that it formed inside an etch channel as an epigenetic inclusion. Raman spectroscopy showed peaks consistent with xenotime at 1012.8, 1064.5, 1117.5, 1158.4, and 1246.6 cm–1 as seen in the figure 2 spectrum.

Figure 2. The xenotime inclusion broke through the pavilion surface (inset; magnified 80×). Radiation stains were also observed at the contact with the host diamond (see arrow). The Raman spectrum, using a 514 nm laser, shows xenotime peaks at 1012.8, 1064.5, 1117.5, 1158.4, and 1246.6 cm–1. Photomicrograph by Kyaw Soe Moe.
Minerals that formed outside of the diamond stability field can be found inside a diamond (see Spring 2009 Lab Notes, pp. 54–55). Xenotime (yttrium orthophosphate, YPO4) occurs mainly in granitic pegmatite and also in metamorphic rocks such as biotite gneiss (E.J. Young and P.K. Sims, Petrography and Origin of Xenotime and Monazite Concentrations, Central City District, Colorado, Geological Survey Bulletin 1032-F, 1961, pp. 273–297). Young and Sims proposed that granitic fluids such as granodiorite mobilized rare earth elements (REE) and phosphates from biotite gneiss in Colorado. Later, these ions crystallized to form unusually high concentrations of xenotime and monazite in migmatized parts of gneiss. The granitic fluids may have percolated within diamond deposits in continental crust, and REE ions could have been deposited and crystallized inside etch channels, as observed in this yellow diamond. Radiation stains associated with xenotime, which is one of the few naturally occurring yttrium minerals, may contain trace amounts of uranium and be slightly radioactive.

Associations of xenotime with diamond have been previously reported. E. Hussak described intergrowths of monazite and xenotime in diamond-bearing sands in Brazil (“Mineralogische Notizen aus Brasilien,” Tschermaks Mineralogische und Petrographische Mitteilungen, Vol. 18, 1899, p. 346). More recently, xenotime inclusions have been reported in carbonado from the Macaubas River in Minas Gerais (M. De Souza Martins, Geologia dos Diamantes e Carbonados Aluvionares da Bacia do Rio Macaubas (MG), Ph.D. thesis, Universidade Federal de Minas Gerais, Instituto de Geociencias, Belo Horizonte, Brazil, 2006). To the best of our knowledge, xenotime inclusions in gem-quality diamond have never been reported. @chapter:43 @chapter:1 @chapter:43


# Publication Year: 2015
# Title: Unique Tourmaline Necklace
# Abstract: A unique parti-color Brazilian tourmaline necklace with a total weight of 961 carats. Photo by Duncan Pay/GIA, courtesy of Atlas Gemstones, Inc.

              At the AGTA show, Anna Jankowiak (Atlas Gemstones Inc., Toronto) showed us a unique 961 ct parti-color tourmaline necklace and clasp (figure 1). This piece, which Ms. Jankowiak said she purchased in India, was reportedly cut from a single large, slender Brazilian tourmaline crystal reportedly mined within the last three years. The cutter tried to salvage as much of the material as possible by slicing down the crystal’s length. This produced large flattened sections with rounded edges that showed alternating green and pink color zoning down their lengths. The zoning was strong, neat, and “tight.” This was in contrast to many of the parti-color tourmaline crystal slices we saw at the show, which were sliced perpendicular to their lengths to show the typical concentric “watermelon” zoning. @chapter:40 @chapter:0 @chapter:40