# Publication Year: -
# Title: Fall 2016 G&G: CVD Synthetic Diamonds Survey, Reversible Color Change in Blue Zircon
# Abstract: Nathan Renfro’s article in this issue describes how exposing blue zircon to long-wave UV radiation causes them to turn brown, and how this color modification can be reversed. The 7.95 ct blue zircon ring on the cover is set in 18K white gold and surrounded by 2.43 carats of rubies. It is shown alongside a similar ring with a 5.46 ct tanzanite center stone. Both were designed by Loretta Castoro of Los Angeles for her KissMe collection. Photo by Kevin Schumacher, courtesy of Loretta Castoro.

	CVD-grown diamonds, colored stones, and Indonesian cultured pearls are featured in the latest Gems & Gemology. The Fall 2016 issue reviews the characteristics of several hundred CVD synthetic diamonds; describes how long-wave UV radiation can turn blue zircon brown; and examines the properties of Vietnamese peridot, grandidierite from Madagascar, and Russian alluvial sapphire. The issue also includes a field report from a trip to a cultured pearl farm on the Indonesian island of Lombok.

	OBSERVATIONS ON CVD-GROWN SYNTHETIC DIAMONDS: A REVIEW

	Since 2003, GIA has examined hundreds of gem-quality CVD synthetic diamonds. As growth technology becomes more advanced, the size and quality of these synthetics continue to increase. In the lead article, Sally Eaton-Magaña and James Shigley survey several hundred, CVD samples, interpreting grading factors and analytical data to gain greater insight into indicators of CVD origin.

The lead article of the Fall 2016 issue reviews the characteristics reported from several hundred CVD synthetic diamonds examined by GIA over the past 13 years. These near-colorless and Fancy Vivid purplish pink samples are representative of most of the CVD-grown samples seen at GIA labs. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA.

	REVERSIBLE COLOR MODIFICATION OF BLUE ZIRCON BY LONG-WAVE ULTRAVIOLET RADIATION

	After learning from gem dealers that blue zircons had turned brown after exposure to long-wave UV radiation, Nathan Renfro undertook a study to see if the blue color could be restored by exposure to incandescent light. Spectroscopic analyses pinpointed the features responsible for the color modification.

	The 11 faceted blue zircons of unknown origin seen on the left all showed a brown face-up color after several minutes of long-wave UV exposure. Photo by C.D. Mengason.

	SAPPHIRES FROM THE SUTARA PLACER IN THE RUSSIAN FAR EAST

	With only one placer deposit of gem-quality sapphire, Russia has long relied on sapphire from other parts of the world. But the Sutara River region of Russia’s Jewish Autonomous District is another potential source of corundum. A team of researchers led by Svetlana Buravleva uncovered sapphire at the deposit and studied the chemical composition and gemological properties of the cabochon-grade material.

	This silver pendant contains a 65.5 ct sapphire cabochon from Sutara, in the Russian
	Far East. Photo by Svetlana Buravleva, courtesy of A. Kurnosov.

	A NEW DEPOSIT OF GEM-QUALITY GRANDIDIERITE IN MADAGASCAR

	A deposit of grandidierite outside Tranomaro, Madagascar, has yielded bluish green to greenish blue crystals that are among the purest known examples of this material. Delphine Bruyère and her coauthors examined samples from the new source, recording its gemological properties, collecting chemical composition data, and discussing the material’s market potential.

This 0.11 ct round brilliant grandidierite from Madagascar has no eye-visible flaws. Photo by Delphine Bruyere.

	PERIDOT FROM THE CENTRAL HIGHLANDS OF VIETNAM

	Recognizing the importance of Vietnamese peridot to the global gem industry, Nguyen Thi Minh Thuyet and colleagues established the geological and P-T formation of the material, concluding that it derives from a spinel lherzolite source. They also compared the gemological characteristics and geochemical data of peridot from the Central Highlands to specimens from other known localities.

The light yellowish green 5.09 ct peridot in this gold ring is from Vietnam’s Bien Ho deposit. Photo by Nguyen Thi Minh Thuyet.

	BEAD-CULTURED AND NON-BEAD-CULTURED PEARLS FROM LOMBOK, INDONESIA

	In this field report, Nicholas Sturman and his coauthors recount their visit to a pearl hatchery in Lombok, Indonesia. There they observed the daily activities of a pearl farm and collected bead-cultured and non-bead-cultured pearls from P. maxima mollusks for further study and future identification purposes.

A group of bead-cultured pearls of various hues recovered from hatchery-bred Pinctada maxima oysters at Lombok, Indonesia. Photo by Julie Poli.

	LAB NOTES

	Highlights from the Fall Lab Notes section include reports on the capabilities of GIA’s melee sorting service, a sapphire rough filled with green lead glass, a treated pink diamond colored by red luminescence, and a purple fluorite inclusion in emerald.

	MICRO-WORLD

G&G’s photomicrography section includes entries on unusual growth zoning in Pakistani aquamarine, etch features in spinel from Madagascar, and a mobile fluorite inclusion within quartz.

	GEM NEWS INTERNATIONAL

	The Fall 2016 GNI section provides updates on Tanzanian colored gemstone deposits, “Punsiri”-type spectral features in natural yellow sapphire, and use of the DiamondView instrument to identify impregnated jadeite. @chapter:29 @chapter:1 @chapter:29


# Publication Year: 2017
# Title: Vesuvianite in Burmese Ruby
# Abstract: This vibrant yellowish green crystal in a faceted ruby from Myanmar was identified as vesuvianite. Photomicrograph by Nathan Renfro; field of view 1.20 mm.

It is a pleasant surprise when a gemologist encounters a vibrantly colored crystal in a gemstone, as most gems are either inclusion free or contain inclusions that are weakly colored due to their small size. When the authors discovered a vibrant yellowish green crystal in a Burmese ruby (see above), it was a very welcome sight. Green crystals in corundum are not common but do occur occasionally. Green spinel and pargasite both occur in gem corundum. The former, a singly refractive mineral, was ruled out immediately because this inclusion behaved as a doubly refractive mineral when examined between crossed polarizers. Doubly refractive pargasite remained a possibility. The surprise came when Raman microspectrometry identified the yellowish green crystal as vesuvianite, also known as idocrase. To the authors’ knowledge, this is the first time vesuvianite has been reported as an inclusion in ruby. @chapter:7 @chapter:0 @chapter:7


# Publication Year: 2016
# Title: Unusual Yellowish Green Spinel
# Abstract: Figure 1. This 2.54 ct yellowish green spinel is shown under daylight conditions (left) and short-wave UV light (right). Photos by Sood Oil (Judy) Chia (left) and Jian Xin (Jae) Liao (right).

Gem-quality spinel (MgAl2O4) occurs in a variety of colors based on the trace elements present within the stone. While synthetic spinels are available in almost any color, some colors are rarely found in natural spinel. The New York lab received a 2.54 ct light yellowish green spinel with unusually strong green fluorescence (figure 1). This variety of color, along with the strong fluorescence (in both long-wave and short-wave UV radiation) is rare in natural spinel, and we needed proof that this stone was not synthetic.

A refractive index of 1.715 suggested the stone might be natural (flame-fusion synthetic spinels typically have an RI of 1.728). Microscopic examination revealed a very small fingerprint shallow to the table facet. While not conclusively diagnostic for natural origin, it supported the possibility. When observed under cross-polarized filters, the stone revealed very little strain, more consistent with a natural spinel. To confirm natural origin, PL spectra and trace element chemistry data were collected.

The PL spectra were collected at room temperature, using 514 nm laser excitation. The sharp and defined chromium emission features, with the strongest peak at approximately 685.5 nm (figure 2), verified that the stone was natural and unheated (S. Saeseaw et al., “Distinguishing heated spinels from unheated natural spinels and from synthetic spinels,” 2009). Heat treatment typically broadens and shifts the position of PL peaks (a similar effect is seen in synthetic spinels). Using laser ablation–inductively coupled plasma–mass spectrometry (LA-ICP-MS), high concentrations of natural trace elements were measured—particularly lithium, gallium, zinc, and beryllium. This reinforced our finding that the spinel was natural.

Figure 2. Well-defined chromium emission features in the photoluminescence
spectrum confirm natural, unheated spinel.
The stone also exhibited relatively high levels of manganese and iron. Fe can play various roles as a chromophore in spinel, depending on coordination within the crystal structure (divalent substitution of Mg and trivalent or divalent substitution of Al), but it is mostly responsible for different shades of blue and greenish blue (V. D’Ippolito et al., “Color mechanisms in spinels: cobalt and iron interplay for the blue color,” Physics and Chemistry of Materials, Vol. 42, 2015, pp. 431–439, http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/s00269-015-0734-0). Mn (divalent substitution of Mg and trivalent substitution of Al) is known to act as a yellow chromophore (among other colors) in spinels (F. Bosi et al., “Structural refinement and crystal chemistry of Mn-doped spinel: a case for tetrahedrally coordinated Mn3+ in an oxygen-based structure,” American Mineralogist, Vol. 92, 2007, pp. 27–33, http://dx.doi.org/10.2138/am.2007.2266). The combination of Fe and Mn within the crystal structure provided a transmission window in the green region of the visible spectrum (figure 3). Using a charge-coupled device (CCD) detector and a long-wave UV light source, the green fluorescence emission band was calculated to be centered at approximately 520 nm. This luminescence was attributed to Mn2+ cations (Summer 1991 Lab Notes, pp. 112–113). The fluorescence could have contributed to the overall color of the stone by adding more green hue through emission.

Figure 3. In the spinel’s UV-Vis-NIR absorption spectrum, the combination of iron and
manganese peaks produces a transmission window in the green region of the visible
spectrum.
This was one of the most unusual colors of spinel examined by GIA. @chapter:26 @chapter:0 @chapter:26


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Inside the Geode Business
# Abstract: Bob HalemManager, Royal West Warehouse

	Interview with Bob Halem, Manager, Royal West Warehouse
At age 79, Bob Halem loves reminiscing about the serendipity that brought him into the world of colored stones. He was strolling along the Oregon coast near his home when he came upon a group of beachcombers.  He went up to one of them to ask what they were looking for and the woman held out a beach agate. Fascinated right off, Bob bent over and started collecting bags full for himself. Twenty-five pounds of beach agates and tons of fine purple amethyst later, Bob proudly looks back on a career as a supplier of choice for museums such as The Smithsonian and some of the nation’s top interior designers.

In this exclusive interview with GIA conducted at the 2013 Tucson Gem Show, Bob reflects upon the early days when there was only one show in town; he now shakes his head in amazement at the 40 or so shows that dot the Tucson landscape every February. He also measures the time by his own schedule. In earlier days, he tells us, he attended up to 48 shows a year, or almost one a week. Nowadays he does just two, but the two he does are done for the sheer joy of it.

He can afford to scale back like that because Royal West Warehouse has firmly established itself as a dealer in first class geodes for its reliable customer base. Most of the company’s product comes from Brazil where its buyers handpick the specimens to send back to Oregon. For all its heftiness, the material can sometimes break or shatter during the mining, the shipping, or the unpacking. So care and precision are necessary all along the pipeline, and Bob is quick to tip his hat to his warehouse crew for the job they do in handling the valuable goods. @chapter:33 @chapter:2 @chapter:33


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Diamond Cut: Anatomy of a Round Brilliant
# Abstract: This graphic illustrates the measured and visually assessed proportions that affect a round brilliant diamond’s cut grade.

	A specific set of terms is used to describe parts of a polished diamond. Each part of a diamond makes its own contribution to the diamond’s appearance.

	In the standard round brilliant, there are 57 or 58 facets. The table facet, usually the largest facet on the diamond, helps gather light from above and either reflects it back to the observer or directs it into the diamond’s interior. The crown facets, consisting of 8 bezels, 8 stars, and 16 upper halves, gather and disperse light to create brightness, fire, and a scintillating pattern of light and dark. The pavilion facets, consisting of 16 lower halves, 8 mains, and an optional culet, reflect the light back through the crown to the viewer’s eye. All of these facets work together creating each diamond’s unique appearance.

Average Girdle Diameter

	The diameter of a round diamond is the distance from one girdle edge to the opposite girdle edge, straight through the center.

	Because even well-cut round diamonds are never perfectly round, the diameter is measured in several places, recording the minimum (smallest) and maximum (largest) measurements.

	The average girdle diameter is a calculated value obtained by the following formula, which is then reported to the nearest hundredth of a millimeter (0.01 mm):

	Average girdle diameter = (minimum diameter + maximum diameter) ÷ 2

	This proportion is used in calculating certain percentages such as table size, total depth, crown height, and pavilion depth.

	Total Depth Percentage

	The total depth percentage of a round brilliant diamond is the table-to-culet depth, expressed as a percentage of the average girdle diameter and reported to the nearest tenth of a percent (0.1%).

	The total depth percentage is a calculated value obtained by the following formula:

	Total depth % = (depth ÷ average girdle diameter) x 100

Table Percentage

	The table percentage of a round brilliant diamond is the average of four table measurements (from bezel point to bezel point) expressed as a percentage of the average girdle diameter. It is reported to the nearest whole percent (1%).

	The table percentage is a calculated value obtained by the following formula:

	Table % = (average table size ÷ average girdle diameter) x 100

	Table size can have a significant impact on the diamond’s face-up appearance, especially when it’s paired with certain combinations of crown and pavilion angles.

Star Length Percentage

	Star length percentage is the length of the star facet expressed as a percentage of the girdle-to-table distance. The average of the eight star length percentages is reported to the nearest five percent (5%).

	Star facets that are very short or very long can have a negative effect on a diamond’s face-up appearance.

Crown Angle

	Crown angle is the measured angle between the bezel facet plane and the table plane. The average of eight crown angle measurements is reported to the nearest half of a degree (0.5°).

	Crown angle can significantly affect a diamond’s face-up appearance. Generally, crown angles from 32 to 36 degrees produce attractive, bright, and fiery diamonds if combined with the right table percentage and pavilion angle.

Crown Height Percentage

	Crown height percentage is the diamond’s crown height, measured from the table to the intersection of the bezel facet and the girdle, expressed as a percentage of its average girdle diameter. It is reported to the nearest half of a percent (0.5%).

	Crown height percentage is a calculated value obtained by the following formula:

	Crown height % = (average crown height ÷ average girdle diameter) x 100

Pavilion Angle

	Pavilion angle is the measured angle between the pavilion main facet plane and the table plane. The average of eight pavilion angle measurements is reported to the nearest 0.2 degrees.

	Subtle pavilion angle differences can have a significant impact on the diamond’s face-up appearance. For instance, steep pavilion angles can produce dark areas under the diamond’s table.

Pavilion Depth Percentage

	Pavilion depth percentage is the diamond’s pavilion depth, measured from the culet to the intersection of the pavilion main facet and the girdle, expressed as a percentage of its average girdle diameter. It is reported to the nearest half of a percent (0.5%).

	The average pavilion depth percentage is a calculated value obtained by the following formula:

	Pavilion depth % = (average pavilion depth ÷ average girdle diameter) x 100

Lower-Half Length Percentage

	Lower-half length percentage is the length of a pair of lower-half facets expressed as a percentage of the girdle-to-culet distance. The average of eight lower-half length percentages is reported to the nearest five percent (5%).

	Lower-half facets that are very short or very long can have a negative effect on a diamond’s face-up appearance, especially its pattern.

Girdle Thickness Percentage

	Girdle thickness percentage is the average thickness of a diamond’s girdle, measured at the eight bezel/main “hill” positions, and expressed as a percentage of average girdle diameter. Hill positions are the “thick places” located where the bezel and main facets meet. It is reported to the nearest half of a percent (0.5%).

Girdle Thickness Description

	Girdle thickness is visually assessed at the "valley" positions, as a range between the thinnest (minimum) and the thickest (maximum) areas. Valley positions are the "thin places" located between the bezel/main intersection and where the upper and lower halves meet.

	Descriptions of girdle thickness include extremely thin, very thin, thin, medium, slightly thick, thick, very thick, and extremely thick.

	Thinner girdles can affect the diamond’s durability, whereas thicker girdles can hide unnecessary weight. The cut grade can be lowered in both of these cases.

Brillianteering or Girdle Thickness Variation

	When the angles and positions between the upper- and lower-half facets are normal in relation to the bezel and main facets, the facet junctions are distinct and the girdle is evenly scalloped.

	This illustration shows a normal girdle.

Painting
Painting refers to the tilting of the upper- or lower-half facets toward the bezel or main, resulting in thinner “hill” positions where the bezel and main facets meet. The angle of the upper- or lower-half facets is reduced, becoming close to the angle of the bezels or mains, and blurring the visual distinction between them.

	The top illustration shows painting on the crown. The bottom illustration shows painting on the pavilion.

Digging Out
Digging out is the opposite of painting. The upper- or lower-half facets, or both, are tilted away from the bezel or pavilion facets and toward each other, resulting in thinner “hill” positions where upper- and lower-half facets meet. The angle of the upper- or lower-half facets is increased, and the junction between the half facets becomes visually indistinct.

	The top illustration shows the crown with digging out. The bottom illustration shows the pavilion with digging out.

	Painting and digging out can occur on a diamond’s crown, pavilion, or both. Both painting and digging out are used to retain weight, and can have an impact on a diamond’s brightness and pattern. As these features become more severe, so do their impact on the cut grade.

Culet Size Description

	Culet size is described as the width of the culet facet, when present, relative to a round diamond’s average girdle diameter. Descriptions include none, very small, small, medium, slightly large, large, very large, and extremely large.

	"None" is used when there is no culet facet, which is sometimes referred to by the trade as a “pointed” culet.

	Larger culets can have a negative effect on the diamond’s face-up appearance, specifically affecting its pattern, and lowering its cut grade. @chapter:41 @chapter:1 @chapter:41


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Faces of Eternity Bring Skulls to Life
# Abstract: Human skulls, long a symbol of death or danger, have been a popular jewelry icon for decades, but gem carver Luis Alberto Quispe Aparicio has taken the concept of the skull as décor to a whole new level.

“I personally see it [the skull] as a symbol of eternity,” he said. “It is a sign of man's mortality; a victory of death over life. I thought to myself, ‘Why don't we try giving some life to them? Maybe even personality and character!’ I wanted to show that skulls could also be alive and fun.”
That was the genesis of a 26-piece collection of carved gemstone skulls he created to last forever. A selection of them is on display through April 2014 at GIA’s Carlsbad campus in California.
“These skull sculptures are different from any other objets d’art we’ve had on display before,” said Jana Miyahira-Smith, a subject specialist for GIA Education. “They are edgy and avant garde – they show we are not bound by convention in our museum displays.”
Duncan Pay, editor-in-chief of Gems & Gemology, said many vendors at this year’s Tucson gem and mineral shows had small, rock quartz skulls on display earlier this year, but said Aparicio’s were at a totally different level, especially with the combination of materials used.
“Aparicio’s skulls whimsical and fun,” Pay said. “He has an eye for the strange.”

View Gallery

Carving a New Tradition for the Family Business
Aparicio said the skull sculptures were a way he could blend the lapidary art work and metalsmith skills he learned in his family’s gemstone carving business in Lima, Peru.
Aparicio and his sister Sylvia, a goldsmith and jewelry designer, grew up surrounded by artists, master carvers and jewelers who visited their father’s art studio. The siblings traveled to gem and mineral exhibitions around the world for more than 20 years, soaking up the work of many artists. This multi-cultural exposure helped them to develop their own artistic forms and techniques.
An engineer by profession, Aparicio creates objets d’art for Neoart Peru, the company their father created in 1968. The brother and sister have revived the business with a specialty in ruby carvings and natural wildlife-inspired themes that use rare and unusual gemstones from around the globe.
Aparicio spent several years collecting rough from around the world once he had the idea for the skull sculptures. Each chunk of rough needed to be large enough to create a skull and visually appealing to ensure the finished piece was attractive and interesting.
“Every stone has its little secret,” Aparicio said. “It could be revealed in the cutting, carving or polishing ‒they all need special skill to be well-carved. That is the fun part, it becomes a challenge.”
Aparicio spent one to three months each of the skulls, depending on the material used and the intricacies of the details. The exception was the ruby skull, which took three times longer because of ruby’s exceptional hardness. It is essentially an eight-step process from design to cutting and carving to polish. Each piece is a result of sculpture, metalsmithing and jewelry-making techniques.
Details Bring Skulls to Life
“The skulls collection was one of my favorites to create,” said Aparicio, who spent a year designing and carving them. “By carving natural gemstones with a combination of lapidary art and metalsmithing techniques, you can really see how the colors and textures in the various stones bring each piece to life.”
Nathan Renfro, lead analytical specialist in GIA’s Carlsbad lab, said it’s clear that each piece has its own character.
“There are a lot of details in the stands and accessories that go with each skull,” Renfro said. “The subtle details in the accent pieces give each one their own personality.”
The skull collection is a special treat for students Miyahira-Smith said.
“I think the students are really going to like them,” she said. “They are a good reminder of the many different ways the materials they are studying here can be fashioned.” @chapter:28 @chapter:2 @chapter:28


# Publication Year: 2019
# Title: The Largest Diamond Ever Discovered in North America
# Abstract: Figure 1. This 552.7 ct yellow diamond (54.5 × 34.9 × 31.8 mm) from the Diavik mine in Canada is by far the largest diamond found to date in North America. Photo by Jian Xin (Jae) Liao.

In October 2018, a diamond weighing a remarkable 552.7 ct was recovered from the Diavik mine in Canada. This is by far the largest known gem diamond found to date in North America. It is nearly three times larger than the 187.63 ct Diavik Foxfire which was unearthed from the same mine in August 2015, and about twice the size of a 271 ct white diamond mined from the Victor mine in Canada. GIA’s New York laboratory had the opportunity to examine this notable diamond in late January 2019, before it went on public display at the Phillips Auctions in New York.
This large diamond (54.5 × 34.9 × 31.8 mm) has a striking yellow bodycolor and a rounded irregular ovoid shape (figure 1). The markedly rounded overall shape is due to strong resorption of the crystal surface, leaving a coarse surface texture of complex terraces and hillocks. Negative trigons were sparsely distributed. A fracture oriented perpendicular to the length divides a portion of the diamond, about a quarter of the way in from the smaller end (the left side in figure 1). In and around the fracture there are a few small black inclusions, possibly graphitic or sulfide. At high magnification, a portion of the fracture is slightly resorbed, suggesting that at least part of the fracture developed during ascent in the kimberlite. Patches of surface abrasion up to 7 mm across, but limited to a very shallow depth, are spread widely over the surface. According to a statement by Dominion, these markings are thought to be the result of abrasion during the recovery process, and the fact that the diamond remains unbroken is remarkable.
Infrared absorption spectroscopy reveals that the diamond is type Ia, with a very high concentration of aggregated nitrogen. A very weak absorption at 3107 cm–1 from the N3VH lattice defect was also recorded. UV-visible absorption spectroscopy reveals strong absorption from N3 (415 nm) and N2 (478 nm), a typical feature of “cape” diamonds. No other absorption features were detected in the UV-Vis spectrum, consistent with the pure yellow bodycolor visible to the eye. Under long-wave UV radiation, this diamond has strong blue fluorescence and weak but long-lasting yellow phosphorescence. Moderate whitish blue fluorescence and very weak orange phosphorescence were observed under short-wave UV radiation. All these gemological and spectroscopic features are very similar to those observed in the Diavik Foxfire. Photoluminescence analysis at liquid nitrogen temperature with varying laser excitations from the UV to the infrared region revealed additional features of a typical “cape” diamond. Main emission peaks included very strong N3 at 415 nm and weak H3 at 503 nm. In addition, weak emissions at 489, 535, 604, 612, 640, 700, 741, 787, and 910 nm were recorded. No emission from H4 (496 nm) or H2 (986 nm) was observed.
This diamond has a combination of size, color, and top gem quality that is extremely rare. It will be exciting to see this special diamond crafted into polished form. The Diavik mine is jointly owned by mining companies Rio Tinto and Dominion Diamond Mines.

	552.7 ct Diamond from the Diavik Mine @chapter:44 @chapter:1 @chapter:44


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Robert M. Shipley Sr. (1887–1978)
# Abstract: During the depths of the Depression, a middle-aged man with little more than ambition and charisma revolutionized the gem and jewelry industry. Robert M. Shipley established the Gemological Institute of America in 1931 as an education and research facility dedicated to the study of gems. From humble beginnings in his Los Angeles apartment, GIA would go on to become a global leader in gemology.

Shipley began his career as a retail jeweler in Wichita, Kansas. Although he cultivated the image of a gem expert, several embarrassing episodes revealed his lack of training. Divorce and the failure of his business during the mid-1920s sent him in search of a new life in Paris studying art. There he met his second wife, Beatrice, who introduced him to the right people and got him started as a museum lecturer. At the same time he discovered his love of teaching, Shipley enrolled in gemological correspondence courses offered by Great Britain’s National Association of Goldsmiths.

Inspired by the NAG courses and painfully aware of how little most retail jewelers knew about gems, Shipley returned to the United States with a vision: professionalizing the jewelry trade through education. GIA was the first organization of its kind in the United States. While traveling across the country to promote GIA courses, Shipley also established the Institute’s laboratory and instrument services.

In 1934, Shipley founded the American Gem Society as a professional guild of knowledgeable jewelers. That same year he established Gems & Gemology, GIA’s journal of gemological research. Shipley retired in 1952, but his far-reaching vision would influence future generations of gem and jewelry tradespeople. @chapter:38 @chapter:2 @chapter:38


# Publication Year: 1992
# Title: Gem-Quality Green Zoisite
# Abstract: A new transparent, gem-quality green zoisite has been discovered in the Merelani Hills of mineral-rich Tanzania. The gemological properties are identical to those known for violetish blue tanzanite. The main differences are the pleochroic colors and the presence of chromium lines in the absorption spectrum of the green material. Chemical analyses demonstrated the presence of varying amounts of chromium and vanadium relative to the saturation of green. @chapter:14 @chapter:0 @chapter:14


# Publication Year: 2016
# Title: Fred Ward (1935–2016)
# Abstract: Gems & Gemology mourns the loss of acclaimed photographer and gemologist Fred Ward, who died July 19 at the age of 81. Mr. Ward was known for capturing iconic images of celebrities and for his work with National Geographic magazine, which sparked his gemological pursuits.

	Mr. Ward was born in Huntsville, Alabama, and grew up in Miami. His passion for photography blossomed in high school, when he decided to turn his extracurricular activity into a career. He earned a master’s degree in journalism from the University of Florida in 1959.

	Well known for his shots of President John F. Kennedy’s funeral in November 1963 and the Beatles’ first American performance (1964), he photographed Gerald Ford for Portrait of a President (1975). Mr. Ward’s work can be found in collections owned by the Metropolitan Museum of Art and the Library of Congress, among others. Mr. Ward became interested in gemology as a freelance photographer for National Geographic, where he worked on several assignments related to gems. He went on to publish the highly influential nine-volume Fred Ward Gem Book Series. He earned his Graduate Gemologist diploma from GIA in 1990 and was a member of the Washington, DC chapter of the GIA Alumni Association. He was a coauthor of G&G’s Spring 2000 article “Burmese Jade: The Inscrutable Gem.”

	Fred Ward is survived by his wife of 58 years and frequent collaborator Charlotte Mayes Ward, four children, and four grandchildren. We extend our deepest condolences to his family and friends. @chapter:34 @chapter:2 @chapter:34


# Publication Year: 1992
# Title: Status of Ruby and Sapphire Mining in the Mogok Stone Tract
# Abstract: Burma, now named Myanmar, has for centuries been considered the world's preeminent source of fine rubies. Today, after nearly three decades of limited gem production, there is a resurgence of mining activity at the famous Mogok Stone Tract. New developments include mechanized government mines and joint-venture mining operations with Myanmar nationals. This article, based on two recent visits to Mogok, briefly reviews the mining history and geology of this extraordinary locality, and describes the current status of mining and the methods used to recover rubies and sapphires in the Mogok area. Limited statistics on gem production are also presented, as is a map of the area showing many of the active mine sites. @chapter:30 @chapter:0 @chapter:30


# Publication Year: 2020
# Title: Quarterly Crystal: Ferrocolumbite in Topaz
# Abstract: Figure 1. This 239.25 ct topaz crystal hosts some interesting inclusions of ferrocolumbite. Photo by Diego Sanchez.

Figure 2. Laser Raman microspectrometry identified the smallest of these inclusions as ferrocolumbite. Photomicrograph by Nathan Renfro; field of view 17.62 mm.
The author recently acquired a 239.25 ct transparent well-formed topaz crystal from the collection of Leon M. Agee. The crystal from the Shigar Valley in Pakistan, shown in figure 1, has a flat base formed by a cleavage plane. The termination appears to be a pyramid form. The crystal plays host to two prominent opaque black inclusions and one smaller similar-appearing inclusion that is close to the surface of the host (figure 2). The two larger inclusions were too deep in the topaz to analyze. However, the small inclusion was near the surface of one of the prism faces and could be reached by laser Raman microspectrometry. Testing showed a very close match to ferrocolumbite (columbite-Fe). Because of the resemblance between the smaller inclusion and the two larger ones, we concluded that the two larger inclusions were also ferrocolumbite. As an interesting aside, these inclusions are reminiscent of star cruisers in the Star Wars anthology. @chapter:15 @chapter:0 @chapter:15


# Publication Year: 2023
# Title: Unusual Inclusions in Natural Emerald from Chivor
# Abstract: Tubular three-phase inclusions with albite (Ab) at each end in a natural Colombian emerald. These inclusions are oriented parallel to the c-axis of the crystal. Photomicrograph by Javier Toloza; field of view 0.95 mm.
Nailhead inclusions are commonly associated with hydrothermal synthetic emeralds and occasionally found in flux-grown emeralds as well (G. Choudhary and C. Golecha, “A study of nail-head spicule inclusions in natural gemstones,” Fall 2007 G&G, pp. 228–235; N. Renfro et al., “Inclusions in natural, synthetic, and treated emerald,” Winter 2016 G&G, pp. 402–403). Interestingly, similar inclusions have also been observed in natural emeralds. These inclusions occur when a tiny particle or platelet of a foreign substance becomes trapped within the host mineral during crystal growth. As the crystal continues growing, a conical void develops behind the particle, which typically captures various forms of matter, including liquids and gases (Choudhary and Golecha, 2007).
While examining a 1.40 ct rough Colombian emerald sourced from the Chivor district in Boyacá, the authors encountered growth blockage inclusions resembling nailhead inclusions. Unlike the jagged shape typical in Colombian emeralds, these three-phase inclusions exhibited a tubular form and were oriented parallel to the c-axis of the crystal. Using Raman spectroscopy, euhedral albite crystals were identified at both ends of the inclusion (see above), suggesting a strong interaction between the mineralizing fluids and the host rock, where the fluids may have dissolved albite from the rock and become enriched with its constituents. This could be due to previous alteration processes within the host rock resulting in the replacement of preexisting minerals by albite, known as albitites (A. Cheilletz and G. Giuliani, “The genesis of Colombian emeralds: A restatement,” Mineralium Deposita, Vol. 31, No. 5, 1996, pp. 359–364). @chapter:10 @chapter:0 @chapter:10


# Publication Year: 2020
# Title: Formation of the “Matryoshka” Diamond from Siberia
# Abstract: Figure 1. The 0.62 ct green “Matryoshka” diamond (4.8 × 4.9 × 2.8 mm) from Siberia has an internal open cavity connected by two small channels to the outside. The surface is covered by etched trigons and striations. A small diamond crystal can move freely inside the cavity. Photo by Jianxin (Jae) Liao.

A freely moving diamond trapped inside another diamond was discovered in Siberia by Alrosa in 2019. The unusual diamond, nicknamed the “Matryoshka” after the traditional Russian nesting dolls, attracted widespread interest in how this feature formed.

Figure 2. The small, flat diamond crystal enclosed in the cavity showed a hexagonal outline. The surface of the small diamond was covered with groups of parallel straight striations following the diamond crystal symmetry. Photo by Towfiq Ahmed.

	Mobile diamond inclusion in the Matryoshka diamond

The 0.62 ct flat octahedral diamond, a twinned macle, was recently examined by the New York laboratory. Flat-bottom trigon etch pits were well developed on the face {111} (figure 1). The crystal showed a clear green bodycolor, with small dark green radiation stains in shallow fractures along the edges when viewed from the top of the crystal. Two etch channels on opposite sides of the edges had rectangular openings about 0.2 mm in width. The channels extended into the internal enclosed cavity. These features made this diamond unique. Trapped in the cavity was a small, flat diamond crystal with a hexagonal outline. The small diamond, covered with some green radiation stains on the surface, is entirely detached from its host crystal and can move freely inside. The surface of the small diamond was covered with groups of straight parallel striations following the diamond crystal symmetry. No etched trigons were observed on the surfaces of the small diamond (figure 2). Except for tiny foreign-material contaminations at the two entrances of the open channels, no other inclusions were observed in this crystal (figure 3).

Figure 3. An open channel about 200 μm in width connected the internal cavity with the outside. Image by Elina Myagkaya.
Absorption spectroscopy in the infrared region indicated a type Ia diamond, with high concentration of aggregated nitrogen. A moderately strong absorption at 3107 cm–1 from the N3VH defect was also observed. More detailed analysis of selected areas with and without the small internal crystal showed almost identical spectral features, confirming that the small crystal is a diamond with nearly identical trace element chemistry as the host. The UV-Vis absorption spectrum collected at liquid nitrogen temperature (–196°C) showed clear absorptions from the N3 defect (ZPL at 415 nm) and GR1 (ZPL at 741 nm). These spectral features are typical for a natural type Ia diamond, except for the strong GR1 absorption, which is attributed to irradiation. Occurrence of the small dark green radiation stains revealed that this diamond was naturally irradiated. Under various laser excitations at liquid nitrogen temperature, photoluminescence spectroscopy showed emissions at 911, 787, 741 (GR1), 700, 535, 503.5 (3H), 489, and 468 nm. Absence of emission from the H3 defect (N2V, ZPL 503.2 nm) indicated that the diamond crystal was not annealed to any elevated temperature after being naturally irradiated.

	X-ray computed microtomography of the Matryoshka diamond

X-ray computed microtomography (μ-CT) scanning and analysis revealed some very interesting observations. First, the small internal crystal showed the same intensity of X-ray absorption as the host diamond supporting the conclusion that the small crystal is a diamond. Second, CT technology can accurately compile the morphology of the internal cavity through stacked imaging. The cavity showed a flattened octahedral shape, composed of two octahedron crystals of parallel growth. The crystal habit of the void, an extremely important observation of this study, strongly indicated that the open cavity was originally occupied by another diamond crystal instead of other mantle minerals. Once crystallized in the earth’s mantle under very high pressure, it is not possible for a diamond crystal to have any internal open space. Other mantle minerals such as garnet, olivine, or pyroxenes will show entirely different crystal habits. Finally, volumes of different parts of this crystal were calculated. The external crystal was 33.16 mm3 in volume (0.58 ct), while the internal small crystal had a volume of 1.51 mm3 (0.03 ct). The total calculated weight of 0.61 ct is very close to the actual weight of 0.62 ct (excluding the contaminations at entrances of the etching channels). The volume of the open cavity was 5.99 mm3, equal to 0.11 ct of diamond originally occupying that space. Based on these calculations, the total initial weight of this crystal would have been about 0.72 ct.
In summary, this diamond crystal was initially a solid diamond without the cavity when it formed in the earth’s mantle. Due to chemical heterogeneity in trace element chemistry or sub-micro inclusions/structure (such as those fibrous diamonds), the middle part of the diamond crystal (now represented by the void) was selectively dissolved during interactions with special type(s) of melt/fluid after its crystallization. About 0.11 carats of diamond dissolved through the two small open channels that created the pathway for the internal cavity. The host diamond and the small internal diamond crystals were inactive or less active to the melt/fluid and consequently survived. Fluid with radioactive elements responsible for the green bodycolor and formation of radiation stains would have been the last step in decorating this crystal. Special chemistries and interactions with multiple types of melt/fluid subsequent to its initial crystallization led to the formation of this unique diamond in Siberia. @chapter:39 @chapter:1 @chapter:39


# Publication Year: 1996
# Title: Some Tanzanite Imitations
# Abstract: Since at least 1995, various materials have been manufactured to imitate tanzanite in the gem trade. These include two glasses, two different YAGs (yttrium aluminum garnet), and a synthetic corundum. These imitation tanzanites can be readily separated from the natural gem by standard gemological tests, such as refractive indices, optical character, specific gravity, UV-visible spectra, fluorescence, and the presence or absence of pleochroism. The identifications were confirmed by chemical analysis and Raman spectroscopy. @chapter:0 @chapter:0 @chapter:0


# Publication Year: 1981
# Title: Winter 1981 G&G Lab Notes
# Abstract: A Coral Substitute, Dyed Marble
Angular Grooves on Diamond
Burned Diamond
"Chameleon" Diamond
Green Diamonds
Emerald Substitute, Dyed Beryl
A Remarkable Three-Phase Inclusion in Emerald
Natural Pearls Worn Out
Pearl Simulant
Dyed "Crackled" Quartz
Star Quartz
Heat-Treated Yellow-Orange Sapphires

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:18 @chapter:1 @chapter:18


# Publication Year: 2022
# Title: An A-maze-ing Fingerprint in Spinel
# Abstract: A web-like fingerprint creates a maze-like pattern in this spinel from Vietnam, observed with darkfield and diffuse fiber-optic illumination. Photomicrograph by E. Billie Hughes; field of view 5 mm. Courtesy of Vitalit Gems.
Of the variety of inclusions that can be seen in spinel, perhaps the most familiar are angular octahedral crystals. In many cases, we even see these crystals arranged in neat rows, forming delicate “fingerprint” inclusions.
However, spinel fingerprints can also take on other appearances, as observed in a Vietnamese sample that recently passed through our laboratory (see above). This stone contained a partially healed fissure with a maze-like pattern that was evident when lit with darkfield illumination. With the addition of diffuse fiber-optic illumination, small angular areas of the channels seemed to light up with a highly reflective appearance. Myriad inclusion scenes make spinel a fascinating gem to observe. @chapter:24 @chapter:0 @chapter:24


# Publication Year: 2019
# Title: The Granada Gallery
# Abstract: Figure 1. Paraíba-type tourmalines from Mozambique. Left to right: a 29.34 ct oval, a 3.01 ct pear set in a rose gold ring, a 51.62 ct oval, and a 65.17 ct trillion cut. They were displayed with a 224.6 g gold nugget from Victoria, Australia. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA, courtesy of the Granada Gallery.

Housed in a 1908 vintage Arts and Crafts building on Granada Avenue in Tucson, the Granada Gallery is replete with what its owners call “items of geologic relevance,” or rare mineral and fossil specimens. These are carefully lit and displayed to accentuate their beauty and often combined with faceted and carved gem materials, one-of-a-kind objets d’art, and finished jewelry. For the visitor, this earth-to-jewel experience accentuates the jewelry industry’s rich history.
“We want to further an exchange of ideas between artists, scientists, curators, and collectors,” explained Rüdiger Pohl, who owns and curates the traveling gallery along with Alison Magovern. The gallery’s Tucson space has been open during the gem and mineral shows since 2013.

Figure 2. Pezzottaite is carved into a coiled dragon by Patrick Dreher. The pezzottaite crystal measures 9.6 × 4.7 × 2.1 cm, while the carved pezzottaite is 201.03 ct. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA, courtesy of the Granada Gallery.

Figure 3. Left: Jochen Leën’s aquamarine and gold bracelet is displayed with a 6.1 × 9.1 × 8.5 cm (369.2 g) aquamarine crystal from Pakistan. Right: This 3436 g aquamarine from the Pohl collection measures 5.0 × 9.4 × 7.5 cm, and is also from Pakistan. Aside from its quartz overgrowth, the crystal exhibits phantom growth features and iridescence. Photos by Robert Weldon/GIA, courtesy of the Granada Gallery.
The Granada Gallery collaborates with global artists and collectors, “sparked by happy coincidences, shared visions, and the passion for creating something unique,” the owners said. This year’s exhibit included a collection of Paraíba-type tourmalines from Mozambique (figure 1) and a stunning dragon—carved from the rare mineral pezzottaite, found in a single deposit in Madagascar—by Patrick Dreher (figure 2). Pakistani aquamarine was on display in rough and mounted forms (figure 3). And a year-long collaboration with the Kreis family of Idar-Oberstein, Germany, resulted in their “Chanting of the Stars” piece (figure 4).

Figure 4. “Chanting of the Stars” was created by the Kreis family of Idar-Oberstein. The “chanting” refers to the sound of a comet entering the earth’s atmosphere. The rutilated quartz comet’s impact with earth is denoted by the smoky quartz carving. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA, courtesy of the Granada Gallery. @chapter:31 @chapter:2 @chapter:31


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Robust Demand Brings Increased Rough Diamond Sales
# Abstract: An array of rough diamonds, averaging about 0.4 ct each, from the Letseng Mine, Lesotho. Photo Russell Shor/GIA

Demand for diamonds and jewelry has been good around the world this year, and De Beers and Alrosa are betting it will carry through to 2019. Both companies have increased their sales volumes of rough diamonds significantly this year, based on this assumption.

De Beers announced it sold $575 million at its June 18-21 cycle (sight) and other allocations, a 6% increase over the same period last year. De Beers rough sales for the first six months of the year are even with or slightly behind last year’s total because of caution in the early months. The company often restates its monthly sales totals upwards, however, to account for deals made after the announcements, which usually come in the final week.

Alrosa, the Russian diamond agency, sold $390.3 million worth of rough in June, an 8% increase over sales for the same month last year. The company’s rough sales for the first half of the year are also up 8%. Alrosa markets nearly all diamonds produced in its home country and the Catoca deposit in Angola. The higher totals came from increased sales volumes and not as a result of price hikes.

“Sentiment in the diamond industry’s midstream is positive following the JCK Las Vegas trade show at the start of the month, and we continued to see good demand for our rough diamonds across the product range,” said De Beers CEO Bruce Cleaver in announcing the cycle totals.
PRODUCTION
Boutique diamond producers continue to find very large diamonds.

Lucapa discovered a 114 carat (ct) diamond at its Lulo Mine in Angola on July 11 and an 89 ct yellow at its Mothae Mine in Botswana last month. Canada’s new Gahcho Kue mine produced its largest diamond thus far, a 95 ct colorless crystal.

Lucara Mining, which found the 1,109 ct Lesedi La Rona diamond at its Kerowe mine in Botswana several years ago, is again concentrating its extraction activities in the portion of the kimberlite that produced the Lesedi La Rona and several other very large crystals. A recent bulk sample from the section found 47 diamonds weighing more than 10.8 carats, including a 100 ct-plus and six larger than 50 carats.

The Kimberley Process reported that world diamond production in 2017 increased 19% to 150.9 million carats, due in large part to two new mines in Canada, Gahcho Kue and Renard. Canada is the world’s second largest diamond producer with 23.2 million carats valued at $2.06 billion, behind Russia, which mined 42.6 million carats valued at $4.1 billion.
RETAIL
The recent Supreme Court decision allowing U.S. states to collect sales taxes for online sales is a victory some 30 years in the making for Jewelers of America (JA), a trade organization representing companies from all areas of the jewelry supply chain. Ever since U.S. catalog companies began to sell jewelry and not charge sales tax except to customers living in the companies’ home state, JA has argued that it gives remote sellers an unfair advantage. The situation grew much more acute with the rise of online sales.

The savings on a high value piece of jewelry can be considerable. Some 45 of the 50 states collect sales taxes, the highest topping 9%, with some local jurisdictions (New York City and Las Vegas, for example) tacking their own levies onto the state rates.

Exactly how much or how little brick and mortar retailers will win from the decision remains to be seen. As usual, the devil is in the details because every state has a different rate, different rules (some items are exempt from taxation, for example) and different processes for filing. Also, since many brick and mortar jewelers now have online businesses, this court decision could become a doubled-edged sword.

The court ruling, of course, does not bring immediate change because each state must enact its own online tax collection rules. And some states already charge sales tax for online transactions. For example, Blue Nile collects sales tax from customers in Hawaii, Maine, Mississippi, New York, Oklahoma, Virginia and Washington state because it has physical presences (nexus) in these states, and Amazon collects sales taxes from every state that has a sales tax. @chapter:49 @chapter:3 @chapter:49


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Pyrope Garnet and Montana Sapphires Highlight Winter 2015 G&G
# Abstract: The lead article in this issue analyzes the color-change phenomenon displayed by a pink pyrope garnet believed to be of Tanzanian origin. The cover photo shows two pieces of pyrope garnet from Morogoro, Tanzania, that exhibit the reported color-change characteristics. The round “Super Spiral cut” specimen, weighing 15.25 ct., comes from the same material as the 42.42 ct. rough nodule. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA, courtesy of Meg Berry

The Winter 2015 issue of Gems & Gemology offers in-depth analysis of pink pyrope garnet and alluvial Montana sapphires, a new look at a legendary sapphire once owned by Louis XIV, a study of tarnish spots in high-purity gold, and a visit to Australia’s historic opal fields.
Vanadium- and Chromium-Bearing Pink Pyrope Garnet: Characterization and Quantitative Colorimetric Analysis
A new type of pyrope, which shows a noticeable color change from purplish pink under incandescent light to purple in daylight, contains vanadium and chromium and is believed to originate in Tanzania.

GIA researchers Ziyin Sun, Dr. Aaron Palke, and Nathan Renfro performed extensive colorimetric tests on samples to analyze the color change and the factors that influence it.

They determined the range of stone sizes that maximize the color change, although the difference is not significant enough, according to some definitions, to be classified as an actual “color change.”
Alluvial Sapphires from Montana: Inclusions, Geochemistry, and Indications of a Metasomatic Origin
Alluvial sapphires have been mined for more than a century in Montana, but the original source rocks for this material have never been located.

A team of researchers led by Dr. J.C. “Hanco” Zwaan, head of the Netherlands Gemmological Laboratory and a researcher at the Naturalis Biodiversity Center, examined inclusions in sapphires taken from the Rock Creek area to determine their possible origin. Analysis of approximately 400 samples indicated a metasomatic origin. One specimen contained a topaz crystal, the first documented topaz inclusion in sapphire.

Montana sapphires occur at three commercial secondary deposits: Rock Creek, Dry Cottonwood Creek and the Missouri River area. These rough and faceted Rock Creek stones show the range of permanent colors after routine heat treatment without the addition of chemicals. The largest faceted gem weighs 0.43 ct., and the largest rough stone weighs 1.86 ct. Courtesy of Fine Gems International, Robert E. Kane
The Grand Sapphire of Louis XIV and the “Ruspoli” Sapphire: Historical and Gemological Discoveries
The 135.74 ct. Grand Sapphire, a legendary gemstone acquired by Louis XIV in 1669, is housed in the National Museum of Natural History (MNHN) in Paris. Newly discovered documents about this six-sided “lozenge”-cut sapphire indicate that the king acquired the gemstone about the same time he obtained the Tavernier Blue diamond, and that he had both mounted into gold settings in 1672. The Grand Sapphire has often been mistakenly referred to as the “Ruspoli” sapphire, a completely different gem, and archival evidence reveals the story of this confusion.

The authors, led by Dr. François Farges, professor of mineralogy at the MNHN, also determined that the sapphire likely originated in Sri Lanka.
Characterization of Tarnish Spots in Chinese High-Purity Gold Jewelry
Part of gold’s appeal is that it generally does not tarnish − but there have been instances where red, brown, or black tarnish spots have appeared on jewelry pieces of extremely high purity (99.9% Au). A team of Chinese researchers, headed by Dr. Taijin Lu of the National Gems & Jewellery Technology Administrative Center (NGTC) in Beijing, determined that the spots were caused by silver deposited on the gold surface during the manufacturing process.
Splendor in the Outback: A Visit to Australia’s Opal Fields
A GIA field report from the opal mines of Australia rounds out the feature articles in this issue. Australia exports more than $85 million worth of opals annually, with some 200,000 tourists visiting the opal areas each year.
Lab Notes
In the Lab Notes column, two of the largest CVD synthetic diamonds ever submitted to GIA’s lab demonstrate the continual improvement in quality and size of this material. In addition, there are reports on a treated pink diamond with a growth structure usually associated with HPHT synthetics and large natural fossil blister pearls from giant clams found in southeastern Kenya.

The I-color 3.23 ct. round on the left and H-color 2.51 ct. round on the right are the largest CVD synthetic diamonds GIA has tested. Photo by GIA
Micro-World
The Micro-World section presents photomicrographs of a Mexican fire agate cabochon whose coloration and structure creates an unusual visual effect, a red heart-shaped pyrope garnet inclusion in a round brilliant diamond, a violetish blue spinel inclusion in a yellow sapphire, parasite inclusions in Colombian quartz, and four-ray stars in Paraíba tourmaline.

Upon close examination with a field of view of 8.12 millimeters, the polished botryoidal knob in this Mexican fire agate resembles a reptilian eye. Photomicrograph by John Koivula/GIA
Gem News International
Gem News International reports on a large fluid inclusion in a demantoid garnet from Madagascar that provides a strong clue into the source’s mineralization. Other entries include a possible new source of grandidierite in Madagascar; a bluish green chalcedony from Africa, marketed as “Aquaprase;” and a report on ruby mining in Zahamena National Park in Madagascar. @chapter:7 @chapter:0 @chapter:7


# Publication Year: 2023
# Title: Headline: Trends in demand for silver jewelry among Nordic countries.
# Abstract: Trends in the demand for silver jewelry in the Nordic countries
The Nordic countries, comprising Denmark, Sweden, Norway, Finland, and Iceland, have a combined population of 27.85 million in the year 2565. In that year, the Nordic countries imported silver jewelry (HS code 711311) from around the world with a total value of 142.16 million US dollars, marking an increase of 5.27% from the previous year. Denmark emerged as the largest importer with a value of 63.15 million US dollars (-6.06%), followed by Norway with 36.17 million US dollars (+25.57%), Sweden with 34.01 million US dollars (+11.26%), Finland with 7.53 million US dollars (+2.59%), and Iceland with 1.26 million US dollars (+18.98%).
In 2565, Thailand dominated the market for silver jewelry imports into this region, with a value of 47.98 million US dollars (-2.63%). Following Thailand, China imported 19.95 million US dollars (+39.67%), India 19.01 million US dollars (+5.59%), Germany 10.99 million US dollars (-15.74%), Italy 10.09 million US dollars (+17.47%), and imports from Denmark itself amounted to 6.09 million US dollars (+5.97%).
Analysis, Recommendations, Opportunities, and Stakeholder Comments:
1. The Office of the Foreign Trade Promotion, located in Copenhagen, has discussed the current market situation for silver jewelry in the Nordic countries with companies importing gems and jewelry in Denmark and Sweden. It was found that these companies consistently import goods from Thailand due to the high quality and reputation of Thai silver jewelry. Companies actively promote the sale of these products throughout the year, both online and through other means. Given the current economic situation in the Nordic countries, which faces inflation and rising prices of consumer goods, including fashion and luxury items, there has been a slowdown in consumer purchases, which also affects the jewelry industry.
2. Although Thailand has been the main market for jewelry made from silver in the Nordic countries in the last two years, statistics show that China is a strong competitor now. In 2564, China was the third largest exporter after Thailand and India, but in 2565, it has managed to move up to the second position, surpassing India.
3. In addition to silver jewelry, Denmark also has a demand for silver home decoration items, such as Christmas tree decorations made of silver. For example, at the company importing and retailing gems and jewelry, Georg Jensen announced the transfer of its Christmas decorations manufacturing base from a factory in Hjørring, northern Denmark, to a factory in Thailand in the middle of last year. Silver home decoration items during the Christmas season (Holiday Decorations and Ornaments) are another opportunity for this market.
4. Exporting jewelry to the Nordic countries must comply with European Union regulations, particularly concerning product safety since jewelry comes into direct contact with skin. Attention should also be given to minimizing social and environmental impacts.
5. Designs and color trends vary according to the season and collection. Danish consumers prefer small, simple jewelry pieces, while Swedish consumers prefer larger jewelry pieces. @chapter:32 @chapter:3 @chapter:32


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Bob Earnest: Relationships Key to Success of GIA Alumni Association
# Abstract: Bob Earnest, center, helped many students with their studies at GIA. Photos by GIA

                      Robert A. “Bob” Earnest began his relationship with GIA – as many do – as a student. He eventually was an instructor and leader in education, which gave him many opportunities to bond with students. His passion to continue to help them after they graduated drove him to create a web of alumni chapters that today boasts more than 100,000 members around the globe.

Born and raised in Springfield, Missouri, Earnest grew up in the family jewelry business. He learned about GIA through a supplier who urged him to take the correspondence course and in 1956 went to Los Angeles to earn his Graduate Gemologist (GG) diploma.

After he graduated, he went to work for San Francisco jeweler Robert Lindemann. Several years later, a 1962 classified ad for an instructor position at GIA in Jewelers’ Circular-Keystone caught his eye. The possibility of going to back to the Institute as an instructor intrigued him, so he interviewed. He passed the hiring exams and soon received a letter from then-GIA President Richard T. Liddicoat offering him a job.

“I told my boss I was going to GIA,” recalled Earnest later, “and what did he do, but make me vice president!”

Earnest turned Liddicoat down, but called him back in early 1963 when he realized his new post wasn’t a good fit. “Come on down,” Liddicoat told him.

Earnest was put in charge of GIA’s colored stones and gem identification correspondence courses and helped teach the one-week diamond appraisal, gem identification and diamond setting classes. In 1966, Liddicoat asked him to supervise the Institute’s on-site resident studies, which had been steadily growing since the early 1960s.

As program supervisor, Earnest was a jack-of-all-trades for students and in the classroom. He welcomed students, providing their books and study materials and finding housing, especially for the growing number of international students. He also set up classrooms, arranged for instructors and guest lecturers and oversaw exams.

Earnest supervised the program for the next two decades, guiding it as class sizes increased and the curriculum became more in-depth with “more materials to study, more stones to test, more work projects, more lectures and more reading assignments were added,” he said.

Betsy Winans, a GG and video producer for GIA, fondly recalls Earnest. She was a 21-year-old student at UCLA when she started working for him in 1975.

“My first impression of him was a kindly, fatherly figure, but he was smart and a very good gemologist,” Winans said. “He was always kind, respectful, understanding, polite and fair. He was honest, honorable and worked hard, so as a boss, he expected that from us. He had a strong sense of right and wrong.”

By the start of the 1980s, GIA had produced tens of thousands of gemologists in America and abroad. Yet it had never established an alumni association, something that would offer graduates a lifelong connection with other alumni and the Institute. Earnest, with Liddicoat’s support, was the original advocate of a formal alumni network.

“The concept of an alumni association had been blossoming for years,” Earnest recalled. “In fact, for about 10 or 15 years, students had been asking for some kind of organization where they could keep in touch with each other after they graduated.”

The Gemological Institute of America Alumni Association (GIA AA) was established in the fall of 1982, with Earnest as the executive director. Its goals were to create an extensive communications network among Association members involved in gemology, keep alumni informed of new gemological developments and promote goodwill among members.

	Earnest, left, with Liddicoat’s support, was the original advocate of a formal alumni network. He was named the executive director when it was established in 1982.
“We look forward to bringing together graduates of GIA and other gemological institutions in an organization that will serve the worldwide professional gemological community,” Liddicoat said at the time.

Fifteen hundred alumni joined in the first six months; there were more than 3,000 members, with a growing number of alumni chapters in the United States, by the end of 1983. At the end of the decade, there were 50 chapters worldwide, and some 4,000 members.

The Alumni Association also became an important foundation for ongoing gemological education. Local chapters provided opportunities to exchange ideas and information through lectures, videotapes and workshops. They created forums for local and statewide communication among jewelers and gem enthusiasts, and meetings on topics ranging from photomicrography to store security.

Earnest continued to expand the association’s membership and lead alumni tour groups (to gem localities, including South America, Caracas and Brazil – five continents in all) until his retirement in 1988. @chapter:47 @chapter:3 @chapter:47


# Publication Year: 2021
# Title: Windmill Zoning in Tourmaline
# Abstract: Colorless windmill-shaped zoning in tourmaline, as seen with diffused light. Photomicrograph by Britni LeCroy; field of view 9.60 mm.

Tourmaline often displays color zoning. Popular examples include parti-color tourmaline (color zoning perpendicular to the c-axis) and watermelon tourmaline (pink and green color zoning parallel to the c-axis). A more peculiar type of abundant colorless zoning with windmill structures (see above) was seen by the author in an 8.55 ct pink faceted tourmaline. The table was cut perpendicular to the length of the crystal to reveal the windmill zoning as parallel to the c-axis, terminating at the crown and pavilion. This characteristic was visible with or without the use of a microscope. However, diffused transmitted light was necessary for observation in both cases. The stone did not possess any other visible inclusions, but some areas showed fully formed colorless hexagonal zoning following the c-axis. This feature bore a mild resemblance to windmill inclusions seen in sphalerite (Summer 2020 G&G Micro-World, p. 295). @chapter:15 @chapter:0 @chapter:15


# Publication Year: 2020
# Title: Staurolite in a Mozambique Ruby
# Abstract: Orangy red staurolite crystals surround a negative crystal in a Mozambique ruby. Planes of thin films can be seen behind them. Photomicrograph by Nicole Ahline; field of view 1.42 mm.

Rubies from Mozambique have a well-known inclusion suite that can consist of particle clouds, planes of platelets, and negative crystals as well as sulfite and amphibole crystals. These inclusions and their trace element chemistry make the geographical origin of Mozambique rubies less difficult to decipher. Recently, a 1.11 ct unheated ruby was examined by the author for identification. Internally there were scattered silk with planes of thin films as well as negative crystals. These inclusions plus trace element chemistry collected by laser ablation–inductively coupled plasma–mass spectrometry (LA-ICP-MS) analyses confirmed the stone to be from Mozambique.
Mozambique rubies have a consistent suite of inclusions, and noting something out of the ordinary is quite uncommon. Alongside the negative crystals were clusters of a transparent orangy red crystal that the author had no prior knowledge of seeing in a Mozambique ruby (see above). Raman spectroscopy identified the unknown crystals as staurolite, a nesosilicate mineral known to occur in Mozambique. In a recent issue of G&G, staurolite was examined and documented for the first time as an inclusion in corundum, specifically in a Madagascar ruby (Spring 2020 Micro-World, pp. 144–145). The author believes that this staurolite is the first of its kind documented in a Mozambique ruby. Inclusions such as these will forever keep gemologists on the lookout for the next unknown. @chapter:7 @chapter:0 @chapter:7


# Publication Year: 2024
# Title: Update on Liberian Ruby
# Abstract: Figure 1. Ten corundum samples from the Lofa River in Weasua, Liberia. Photo by Shunsuke Nagai.
Liberian rubies were reported more than a decade ago (L. Kiefert and M. Douman, “Ruby from Liberia,” Summer 2011 G&G, p. 138). These rubies were found in two diamond mines located along the Mano River and in Nimba Province close to the Guinean border. GIA’s Tokyo laboratory recently received 10 Liberian corundum samples (figure 1) from the Japan-based NGO Diamonds for Peace. These samples were collected at Weasua, Liberia, the same locality recently reported in G&G (Spring 2023 GNI, pp. 149–150).
Most of the rough corundum pebbles recovered from Weasua showed weakly saturated purplish red, pink, pale yellow, and green colors; most fall in the color range of sapphire, except for a few red ones. Three of the ruby samples—11.65 ct purplish red (A), 6.52 ct dark purplish red (B), and 5.37 ct light purplish red (C)—were cut and polished for observation and advanced testing. Standard gemological testing yielded a refractive index of 1.762–1.770, a uniaxial interference pattern, and a hydrostatic specific gravity of 3.85–3.99. Except for the specific gravity, which is slightly low presumably due to the inclusions, the gemological characteristics were consistent with corundum.

Figure 2. Sample A shows strong two-direction lamellar twinning structures (top left) and contains numerous reflective inclusions near the rim (top right). Both photos are under fiber-optic illumination; the light source of the top right photo is in a specific direction to show the reflective inclusions. Photomicrographs by Yuxiao Li; field of view 19.5 mm. The plot at the bottom shows the minor/trace element concentrations of each spot. The spot position is shown in the top right photo.

Figure 3. Black inclusions, identified as vonsenite by Raman spectroscopy, were observed with twinning planes (left) and reflective particles aligned in three directions with fine needles (right). Photomicrographs by Yuxiao Li; fields of view 2.4 mm (left) and 2.9 mm (right).
The rounded surfaces of the rough stones suggested weathering. Most were semitransparent to translucent, heavily included, and displayed lamellar twinning structures in two orientations (figure 2). The twinning planes were filled with orange secondary minerals. Other internal features included irregularly shaped reflective particles aligned in three directions, iridescent small particles, and fine needles (figure 3). Sample A showed a less-included core and particle-rich rim, and sample B was heavily included with large whitish aggregate inclusions and some small black minerals along the twinning planes. These black minerals were identified by Raman spectroscopy as vonsenite (Fe2+2Fe3+(BO3)O2).

Laser ablation–inductively coupled plasma–mass spectrometry (LA-ICP-MS) was carried out to analyze trace element compositions. On sample A, we measured nine spots from center to edge. The rim area (spots 7–9) yielded higher iron and titanium, and similar levels of magnesium, vanadium, and gallium compared with the less-included core area (spots 1–6) (figure 2). We measured three spots on each of the remaining two samples. The results are presented in table 1, showing the wide range of concentrations of titanium, vanadium, iron, and gallium. (Spot 1 of sample B shows high titanium (84.3 ppma) with zirconium (0.054 ppma), likely caused by the contamination of small inclusions.)
Kongsomart et al. (Winter 2017 GNI, pp. 472–473) summarized the trace element concentrations in rubies from East African deposits. Samples A and C of the Liberian rubies in this study showed trace element concentrations similar to those from Mozambique. Sample B had a high gallium concentration, overlapping with rubies from the Zahamena deposit in Madagascar. Considering the wide range of trace element concentrations of Liberian rubies and those from East African deposits, these chemistry components are not helpful in separating the Liberian ruby from other origins. The ruby samples from these East African origins are less included than the Liberian samples in this study. For identification services, we are able to determine the origin not only by trace elements but also by microscopic observations (A.C. Palke et al., “Geographic origin determination of ruby,” Winter 2019 G&G, pp. 580–613). If it is necessary to separate Liberian rubies from other highly included low-quality rubies, comprehensive study on such included samples is needed.
Recently, some low-quality rubies reportedly mined from Guinea have been sold on the market. These materials are often heat treated and filled with lead glass, with some cabochons displaying six-rayed asterism after treatment. Both rough samples of Guinean ruby in the GIA colored stone reference collection and the studied Liberian rubies show a classic weathered “barrel” shape, semitransparent to translucent transparency, pinkish color, and most are heavily included. Given that the deposit of Guinea ruby is located upstream, north of Liberia, these rubies presumably originated from the same or closely related geological condition. With proper treatment, Liberian rubies could show asterism and be used as jewelry material. @chapter:0 @chapter:0 @chapter:0


# Publication Year: 2002
# Title: Star of the South: A Historic 128 Ct Diamond
# Abstract: The Star of the South is one of the world’s most famous diamonds. Discovered in 1853, it became the first Brazilian diamond to receive international acclaim. This article presents the first complete gemological characterization of this historic 128.48 ct diamond. The clarity grade was determined to be VS2 and the color grade, Fancy Light pinkish brown. Overall, the gemological and spectroscopic characteristics of this nominal type IIa diamond—including graining and strain patterns, UV-Vis-NIR and mid- to near-infrared absorption spectra, and Raman photoluminescence—are consistent with those of other natural type IIa diamonds of similar color. @chapter:39 @chapter:1 @chapter:39


# Publication Year: 2013
# Title: Striving for Timeliness and Synergy
# Abstract: We hope you enjoy the Fall 2013 Gems & Gemology. For this issue, we present two fascinating papers from European authors, one on Moroccan agate and one on columnar growth patterns in natural opal from Ethiopia. This second paper outlines a persuasive model of formation for the distinctive “digit” patterns characteristic of some gems from this source.

We also feature articles from GIA authors on diverse topics ranging from a practical indication of heat treatment to Oregon sunstone to our lead article on the Museum of London’s fabulous Cheapside Hoard.

In August, GIA’s Robert Weldon received an invitation to view this astonishing collection, lost for almost 300 years until a chance discovery in 1912 during a demolition near London’s famous St. Paul’s Cathedral.

As it was such a rare opportunity—this cache of jewels represents both a tantalizing window into trade patterns of the 1600s and a great story in itself—we accepted the invitation and traveled to the UK to document it. This trip also gave the impetus to produce an article in time for the Fall 2013 G&G, which will coincide with the very first major exhibition of the jewels. In other words, we had an opportunity to be timely and produce what we hope will be the definitive paper on this extraordinary collection. In London, GIA was able to record video interviews with the museum’s staff and a tour of the hoard, which we will make available on our website.

In this issue, we’re also introducing a new article category to G&G: the field report, which chronicles a GIA expedition to a gem-producing or processing area and may even stand as a statement of intent for future lines of research and publication. Field reports will also serve as anchors on the GIA website for video and images acquired on these trips. Our first field report documents three sunstone feldspar occurrences in Oregon. Readers will find slideshows plus videos of mining processes and interviews with miners at www.gia.edu/gems-gemology. This rich media allows us to offer a far more comprehensive and engaging picture of a topic than we’ve been able to in the past.

This synergy with the GIA website gives us the ability to quickly post articles and news stories online rather than waiting three months for the next print issue. And we can provide supporting resources for our regular print articles that enrich the user experience. We trust we’ve been able to deliver this with the Fall issue and invite you to explore the associated online media for the Cheapside Hoard and Oregon sunstone articles.

Let me also take this opportunity to thank all the authors who have submitted manuscripts to G&G for review. We truly value your contributions.

Duncan Pay
Editor-in-Chief @chapter:31 @chapter:2 @chapter:31


# Publication Year: -
# Title: The (Creative) Paths Less Taken: Takeaways from GIA’s 2019 Creative Careers Panel
# Abstract: Creative Careers Panelists at the 2019 Jewelry Career Fair in Carlsbad are, from left: moderator Mark Smelzer, publisher of JCK and JCKOnline.com; Baba Blumkin, president and co-founder of Luxe Jewelry and Loan; Wade Clar, Jr., director of brand development for Julez Bryant; Alexandra Hart, designer and goldsmith; Jenny Luker, president of Platinum Guild International USA and Tiffany Stevens, CEO and general counsel of the Jewelers Vigilance Committee. Video Duration: 1:21:15
“Go out and make yourself a little uncomfortable” was perhaps the outstanding theme of this year’s “Creative Careers Panel” during the 2019 GIA Carlsbad Jewelry Career Fair.
And by going out, panelist Wade Clar, Jr., director of brand development for Julez Bryant, means attending events like this one. He encouraged attendees to step out and make new connections, learn new things and throw old assumptions out the window.
The panelists, guided by moderator Mark Smelzer, publisher of JCK magazine and JCKonline.com, offered advice as they shared their experiences with attendees.
Takeaway One: Step Out of Your Comfort Zone
Each panelist’s path had one thing in common: it started when they stepped out of their comfort zone.
Baba Blumkin, president and co-founder of Luxe Jewelry and Loan, spent his early days selling diamonds door-to-door, carrying goods worth a quarter of a million on his back. “You learn to deal with people saying no,” he said.
Alexandra Hart, a metal artist and designer goldsmith, got her first job by sending her resume to every jewelry company she found in the yellow pages.
For some on the panel, discomfort wasn’t in facing the unknown, but rather in being trapped in the supposed “good life.” Tiffany Stevens, CEO and general counsel of the Jewelers Vigilance Committee (JVC), was only weeks into a dream law firm job when she realized she was at the wrong place. In the next two decades, she bounced from an investment firm to a startup, began a non-profit for at-risk girls and wrote grants for pediatric medical research, before finally landing at JVC.
“Just because it looks right on the outside doesn’t mean it feels right on the inside,” she said about her earlier experiences.

Wade Clar Jr., director of brand development for Julez Bryant, (center) makes a point during the Creative Careers presentation. From left, moderator Mark Smelzer, publisher of JCK and JCKOnline,(standing), Baba Blumkin, president and co-founder of Luxe Jewelry and Loan, Clar, and Alexandra Hart, designer and goldsmith. Photo by Eric Welch
Takeaway Two: Make Connections
These panelists, many of them leaders of accredited industry organizations, couldn’t say enough about the value of joining jewelry organizations and how these organizations helped them make connections and find mentors and friends.
Clar, a GIA Jewelry Business Management (JBM) and Bachelor of Business Administration (BBA) graduate, found his first job in the jewelry industry at a GIA Career Fair. This first job in wholesale opened the door for him to work in retail, and his experiences led him to be invited to speak on a Women’s Jewelry Association (WJA) panel. That’s where he met and was hired by his current boss, the designer Julez Bryant, who was a fellow WJA member and panel speaker.
Clar said he is bold about approaching people, because “sometimes you have that connection.” The people who liked him didn’t always have a position open at their company, but they created one for him. He said networking is the most challenging but also the most rewarding part of being in the industry.
Jenny Luker, president of Platinum Guild International and WJA, emphasized the importance of having mentors. She cited Kathryn Kimmel, retired senior vice president and chief marketing officer of GIA, as an inspirational mentor who has helped her over the years.
“This is a very open-arms industry,” Stevens seconded. “Look for people who are retiring who can be your champions. A lot of people love this industry and want to see it thrive.”
Takeaway Three: Work Hard and Pursue Your Interests (they may not be what you think they are)
Hart often hears people speak wistfully about their far-off dreams. Her answer: “If you really wanted to do it that much, you’d already be doing it.”
Hart’s two main passions are social justice and the arts. The challenge (or dream), she said, is combining both. A jewelry designer who is also the president of the Ethical Metalsmiths, she has managed to do what one student called: “improving the human cost of jewelry throughout the world” while remaining an “artistic wild-child.”
What makes Alexandra Hart come alive every day? “Shepherding” her different interests together. “The closer they come together, the better I feel,” she said. “It’s a rush.”
Smelzer’s advice to job-seekers: “Embrace the work in front of you. Don’t be afraid to start (over) from the bottom.”
Luker’s advice is similar: “I started out at Platinum Guild International (PGI) answering telephones, while studying to become a sociology professor.” Now she is Platinum Guild International’s CEO.
Blumkin, with true entrepreneurial spirit, suggested that job-seekers don’t have to wait around for the perfect job. “You can create your perfect job,” after lots of industry experience of course. “You can have 10 jobs and get a feather in your cap from each one. Then you create your perfect job.”
Hart counseled along the same lines: “Working for someone else gives you a good idea of how you would want to do things yourself.”
Clar’s succinct advice? “Get your feet wet. Connect the dots … tough times don’t last. Tough people do.”

Hart, left, and Tiffany Stevens, CEO and general counsel of the Jewelers Vigilance Committee, right, listen while Jenny Luker, president of the Platinum Guild International USA, speaks. Photo by Eric Welch
Takeaway Four: Learn Something New Every Day
One habit these panelists have in common? They set aside time to learn.
Luker blocks out an hour every Friday morning, no matter how full her inbox is, to read or watch videos about the industry and to ask questions of her colleagues abroad. “People know not to schedule meetings for that time. They know that time is important to me,” she said.
Hart reads industry magazines, such as JCK or National Jeweler, every morning.
Smelzer enjoys reading and learning things on his cellphone, which he finds calming and anxiety-reducing. “In the two-thousands, a huge advantage we have is that the whole world is in our cellphones,” he said.
For Blumkin, every day is a learning opportunity. “Clients are always bringing in antique pieces on the fly,” he said, and he has to make quick decisions about what to buy and then identify the maker’s marks and time period of each acquired piece. “No matter how good you are, there’s so much out there, you can’t know everything.”
Stevens, who hails from New York City, said every day is an extracurricular activity. She never knows what note each day will end on, but she finds small ways of declaring victory.
“A big career means big emotions,” she explained. “Big emotions don’t mean you’re doing it wrong; it just means you’re doing it.”
Editor’s Note: To hear each speaker’s introduction about themselves in the video, reference the time stamps below:

Mark Smelzer: Beginning
Baba Blumkin: 5:50
Wade Clar, Jr.: 12:33
Alexandra Hart: 20:59
Jenny Luker: 28:04
Tiffany Stevens: 34:03
Read about and watch the Opening Session of the 2019 Jewelry Career Fair in Carlsbad. @chapter:45 @chapter:2 @chapter:45


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Jadeite Market Update
# Abstract: Jeff MasonPresident, Mason-Kay, Inc.

Interview with Jeff Mason, President, Mason-Kay, Inc.
Jeff Mason’s company, Mason-Kay, has been in business for 36 years, selling only natural jadeite jade jewelry. The jade they use in their designs comes in a wide range of qualities, from a few dollars a carat up into the six figures for some finer pieces.

More than 95 percent of Mason-Kay’s market is in the US. Asian jade-quality preferences are somewhat different from those of American consumers. In general, Asians value translucency over color, while Americans value color over translucency. There’s also a difference in carving-design preferences. Mason-Kay accommodates this difference by “Americanizing” Asian designs.

Mr. Mason has seen an increase in demand for and prices of jade jewelry, especially in the past year or two. He declares that a key to encouraging this increase is education. People’s lack of knowledge leads to fear about prices, qualities, and treatment issues. Mason-Kay reduces those anxieties by educating their clients and ensuring the integrity of their product.

In a discussion about treatments, Mr. Mason states that treated jade is nothing new—jade has been dyed to enhance its color for many decades. A newer treatment, polymer impregnation, has been in use for about three decades, but requires expensive laboratory equipment for detection that the average gemologist can’t justify owning.

In one segment, Mr. Mason discusses the effects of the US embargo against Burmese jade, which started in 2008 and continues to this day. They’ve been forced to buy domestically ever since. Fortunately, the company had stockpiled jadeite supplies before that in anticipation of the ban. Also, in the same year the ban took effect, the world economy experienced a downturn. Despite its overall negative effect, this had two positive effects on Mason-Kay: They didn’t sell out their stockpiled inventories as quickly and they were often able to buy out other companies’ goods at distressed prices.

In these interviews, Jeff Mason provides us with a fascinating look into a sometimes-misunderstood gem and its often-unpredictable market. @chapter:55 @chapter:2 @chapter:55


# Publication Year: -
# Title: The ABCs of Pearls Reveal Fascinating Aspects of Gems from the Deep
# Abstract: Nicholas Sturman, senior manager of identification at GIA in Thailand, spoke on pearls at GIA’s 114th Gemstone Gathering in Bangkok. Photo by Lhapsin Nillapat/GIA

Pearls are unique among gemstones because they are created by living organisms and need minor additional processing before they are placed in jewelry. There are many little known and fascinating facts about pearls that are sure to pique your curiosity about them.
Nicholas Sturman, senior manager of identification at GIA in Thailand, gave a presentation on pearls to students and members of the jewelry trade in Bangkok on Dec. 19 at GIA’s quarterly GIA Gemstone Gathering. The talk, “The A-Z of Pearls,” covered at least one pearl-related subject for each letter of the alphabet.
He began with abalone for “A” for example, while “fluorescence” and “pigment,” represented the letters “F” and “P,” respectively. His goal was to encourage attendees to think more deeply about pearls.
This appeared to work with some of the guests, since comments like “I didn’t know there was so much variety in mollusks and pearls” and “I think I need to check out what GIA offers in the way of pearl courses” were overheard during the post-talk hands-on showing of various mollusks and pearl samples that were brought along to further educate the attendees.

Sturman and some of his team (back right) look at and discuss pearl and mollusk samples with some of the attendees. Photo by Lhapsin Nillapat/GIA
“It is always rewarding to see participants benefit in even the slightest way from such events,” Sturman said. “Hopefully the experience will lead them onto further research into some of the subjects covered and open their eyes to the fascinating world of pearls.”
GIA offers a pearl course where these details and many others may be learned. The course is ideal for anyone who wants to study more about this branch of gemology or wants to go deeper into the subject so that they can better serve their pearl buying clients. @chapter:53 @chapter:4 @chapter:53


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Grads Offer Career Advice to Students
# Abstract: From left, Matthew Coleman, Nicolette Kovacevich, Jeremy Dunn and Sonny Blaze. Photo by Kevin Schumacher/GIA.

		Stay relevant. Network. Make your presence known. Keep learning.

		These are some of the topics four GIA graduates touched on as they talked about how they built successful and fulfilling careers at a recent student presentation. Each shared a little bit of their background, including their experiences before and after attending GIA, and how they use what they learned on the job every day.

Take advantage of GIA resources while you are a student.

		“Get involved with the Student Body Council (SBC),” urged Matthew Coleman, a Graduate Jeweler Gemologist, sales executive and watch advisor at Harry Winston, at South Coast Plaza in Orange County, California.

		Coleman, president of the SBC while he attended GIA in Carlsbad, said the experience gave him not only the opportunity to go on field trips to the Pala Mines and other student activities, but the chance to network with students and staff. Those relationships yielded two very positive outcomes: help opening doors at Harry Winston and the chance to attend a classmate’s wedding in India.

		Sonny Blaze, who has a GG and many design-related diplomas from GIA, has extensive experience in the industry, including high-end retail and grading diamonds for GIA. He is the in-house CAD designer for Eichberg Jewelers in Los Angeles and designs his own line for Sonny Blaze, Inc.  He encouraged students to take advantage of the resources they have while in school.

		“Never stop learning, take advantage of what you have here,” he said, listing the GIA job search engine, staff and classmates. “Always surround yourself with brilliant minds and people who are successful. Learn from them. Let yourself be nourished by the knowledge of people who have been there, people with experience.”

		He also encouraged them to stay on top of new technologies and techniques. “Always keep learning,” he said. “Whatever you decide to be – be a good one and you will succeed.”

Trust yourself and act with confidence.

		Nicolette Kovacevich, GG and manager of the fine jewelry division of Omi Privé in Los Angeles, told students that, from her perspective, the gem and jewelry industry runs on two things: relationships and trust.

		“If you have trust and confidence in your own knowledge, other people you work with or come in contact with will see that and trust you as well. That will only build your relationships more,” she said. “You have to soak up everything you can … and not just while you’re at GIA, but throughout your career.”

		Coleman reiterated her message by sharing his experience jumping from $700 price points to $25,000 price points and higher.

		“When my customers come in the door, it’s not about price, it’s about passion for what I’m doing and confidence in myself to be able to show the value of what I’m selling ‒ and for people to understand it,” he said. “I don’t have to sell Harry Winston jewelry – I have to sell why it costs so much, why the value is there, what our history is and why they should trust me. You need to be able to be confident and to be knowledgeable so the person who is spending the money with you trusts you.”

		Kovacevich also offered advice as a young female in a male-dominated industry.

		“Stand your ground, be firm, don’t take things personally. Have confidence and faith in yourself,” she said. “It will help you move forward and grow as a person, too.”

Learn to court people who can help you.

		“It’s important to not just have the education, but to realize that all of the relationships you have – whether it be at GIA or the people you meet after – is a courtship process that lets people know who you are, what you stand for and what you represent,” said Jeremy Dunn, GG, a designer, gold/platinum smith, hand engraver and the gemstone director for Green Lake Jewelry Works in Seattle, Washington.

		Dunn told students how he was able to get a bench jeweler to take him on as an apprentice by offering to sweep the floor of his shop. From that point forward he did whatever he could to help him and eventually worked side-by-side with him at the bench.

		He said it can be challenging to win over a reluctant teacher.

		“People think you are going to take the lessons they taught you and you’re going to walk,” he said. “You need to show them that you not only care about learning the craft, but potentially care about them or are interested in caring about them. Get to know them, let them know you are interested, ask them questions about themselves.”

		Kovacevich stressed the importance of humility.

		“Don’t be above anything or anyone,” she said. “You have to humble yourself in this industry and make it known you want to learn. Give back and show you have respect for the person teaching you.”

Network. Network. Network.

		“You can’t keep to yourself when you are working, you have to communicate with people,” Coleman stressed. “Practice while you’re here at school. Be open, introduce yourself to everybody. It’s worth getting involved with and meeting these incredible people.”

		Blaze advised students to talk about what they are passionate about when they are trying to network. “I’m not really social, but when I’m nervous, I talk about jewelry, and it always helps,” he said.

		“No matter where you are, you have to continually strive forward and network and meet people in our industry,” Dunn said, who is also the president of GIA's Seattle alumni chapter.

Be the best you.

		All of the grads acknowledged that they didn’t always know what was around the corner for them, but said that if you love what you do and work hard, respect others, focus and be open to meeting new people, you will end up where you need to be.

		 “If you’re worried about what your next step is, just put your head down, get into your work and stay focused until you can be the best you are,” Dunn said. “When the time comes, recognition will happen.” @chapter:45 @chapter:3 @chapter:45


# Publication Year: 2017
# Title: Unusual Inclusions in Green Synthetic Sapphire
# Abstract: This 5.00 ct green synthetic sapphire showed clouds of bubbles along different directions (right, field of view 4.35 mm). Photos by Iurii Gaievskyi.
A 5.00 ct green square step cut (above left) was submitted as a synthetic sapphire to the laboratory of the State Gemmological Center of Ukraine. Standard gemological testing gave a refractive index of 1.763–1.768, with a uniaxial negative optic sign and a birefringence of 0.005, as well as a hydrostatic specific gravity of 3.94. The sample was inert to short- and long-wave UV radiation. Pleochroism was moderate green to yellowish green. Energy-dispersive X-ray fluorescence (EDXRF) spectroscopy showed only small amounts of Co (0.07 wt.% Co3O4). In the jewelry market, such synthetic green sapphires are quite rare. Microscopic examination revealed abundant gas bubbles, including some along curved lines. From these observations we can infer that the Verneuil or Czochralski method was used to create this stone. In addition to these bubbles, there were straight lines of bubbles in multiple directions (above right), which are extremely unusual in Verneuil- or Czochralski-grown synthetic sapphire. @chapter:19 @chapter:1 @chapter:19