# Publication Year: 2016
# Title: Apatite Cluster in Orthoclase Feldspar
# Abstract: Figure 1. Located just left of center, a large apatite crystal cluster is visible directly below the table facet of this 7.20 ct orthoclase feldspar (the inclusion is also reflected numerous times by the pavilion facets). Photo by Kevin Schumacher.

	A yellow orthoclase feldspar (figure 1) recently examined by these authors was of particular interest, not only for its size and clarity but also for the unusual cut. The 7.20 ct oval had a wide table facet that dramatically framed a large eye-visible crystal cluster just below its surface. The potassium-rich orthoclase host was identified using traditional gemological testing and confirmed by Raman microspectrometry, which also identified the inclusion as apatite (figure 2).

	Figure 2. A tiny crystal next to this large cluster of prismatic hexagonal apatite crystals resembles a space shuttle approaching a space station. The image was taken using darkfield illumination. Photomicrograph by Jonathan Muyal; field of view 4.79 mm.

	This relatively large apatite cluster was composed of hexagonal elongated prismatic crystals, a morphology typical of the mineral. They also proved to be opaque and exhibited evidence of a certain degree of softness by their slightly corroded crystal faces (again, see figure 2). Several small tension stress cracks were observed surrounding the inclusion. The altered appearance suggests that these apatite crystals are protogenetic inclusions that were present in the growth environment before the orthoclase began to form.

	Apatite, a common phosphate mineral, has been described in the literature as a crystal inclusion in various gem materials and as randomly scattered “jackstraw” needles in yellow orthoclase from Madagascar (E.J. Gübelin and J.I. Koivula, Photoatlas of Inclusions in Gemstones, Volume 2, Opinio Verlag, Basel, Switzerland, 2005). This specimen’s morphology and size make it an aesthetically pleasing example of apatite as a crystal inclusion in orthoclase, and therefore an interesting collector’s gemstone. @chapter:15 @chapter:0 @chapter:15


# Publication Year: 2015
# Title: Trapiche and More...
# Abstract: Colombia’s unique trapiche emeralds exert a fascination for many gemologists. In fine specimens, the combination of rich, gemmy green color with the six spokes’ geometry is visually arresting.

	In our lead article, we’re delighted to present a comprehensive paper on these intriguing gems by a team of researchers headed by Isabella Pignatelli and Gaston Giuliani. They review the geology of trapiche emerald, provide 3-D petrographic examination of their crystals along with spectroscopic and chemical analyses, and propose a new formation model informed by their recent work. We hope this paper will serve as the primary reference on these one-of-a-kind gems for many years to come. Take a look at our cover photo and decide whether trapiche is a gemological curiosity or an object of beauty in its own right.

	In our next paper, GIA’s Ulrika D’Haenens-Johansson and her coauthors investigate the gemological properties of colorless to near-colorless HPHT-grown synthetic diamonds produced specifically for gem use by a Russian firm, New Diamond Technology. Their analysis of 44 faceted samples ranging up to 5.11 ct provides convincing evidence of the quality improvements—and increased size—of synthetics grown by this method.

		A gemological curiosity or an object of beauty in its own right?

	Meanwhile, Lesotho’s Letšeng-la-Terae mine is currently enjoying a renaissance. Rising prices for large, high-quality diamonds have overcome the twin challenges of this unique mine’s remote location and low ore grade. In our third article, GIA’s Russell Shor and Robert Weldon and their co-authors profile Letšeng to explain how the current owners have adapted their operations to promote recovery of the mine’s biggest gems and increase profitability. Coauthors Bram Janse, Christopher “Mike” Breeding, and Steven Shirey offer insight into this mine’s geology, its location on the Kaapvaal craton, and the distinctive characteristics of its diamonds.

	Next, Zemin Luo, Mingxing Yang, and Andy Shen from the China University of Geosciences in Wuhan apply a statistical analysis method based on linear discriminant analysis (LDA) and LA-ICP-MS trace-element data to the provenance of dolomite-related white nephrite. The authors demonstrate the technique’s high accuracy and potential for origin determination with many other gems.

	We hope you enjoy our second Micro-World column. We had a fantastic response to the first installment and are extremely pleased to welcome several new contributors. We also want to thank our Lab Notes and Gem News International (GNI) contributors—these sections always refresh me with their diversity.

	Finally, I’d like to welcome two new editors to our GNI section: Gagan Choudhary of the Gem Testing Laboratory in Jaipur, India, and GIA’s own Dr. Mike Breeding—we thank them for their commitment and participation.

	Welcome to our Fall issue! @chapter:35 @chapter:1 @chapter:35


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Sapphire Journey
# Abstract: Few people outside the gem industry realize the true nature of a gemstone’s journey from the mine to the counter of a store. Whether the gem is being offered to consumer’s at a traditional jewelry store’s counter, an internet shopping site, or a television broadcast the journey always involves a great deal of effort.  Tons of earth and countless hours of labor are needed to being a gem from mine to market. @chapter:38 @chapter:3 @chapter:38


# Publication Year: 2009
# Title: Polymer-Filled Aquamarine
# Abstract: The authors have encountered hundreds of polymer-filled aquamarines in the Chinese jewelry market. This treatment can be identified with a standard gemological microscope, since it has characteristics such as a flash effect and relief lines. In addition, some of the filled fractures fluoresce chalky white to long-wave UV radiation. FTIR spectroscopy reveals diagnostic features at ~3100–2850 cm-1 that are related to benzene and ethylic C-H bonds in a polymer. @chapter:18 @chapter:1 @chapter:18


# Publication Year: 2007
# Title: An Examination of the Napoleon Diamond Necklace
# Abstract: Napoléon Bonaparte gave an extraordinary diamond necklace to his empress, Marie-Louise, in 1811. Its intriguing history involves both royals and con artists (and one individual who was both), and it was ultimately donated to the Smithsonian Institution in 1962. Infrared absorption analysis of 101 stones in the necklace revealed that a high proportion of the larger diamonds are the relatively rare type IIa; most of the smaller stones are type IaAB. The luminescence behavior of the diamonds to ultraviolet exposure correlates with their diamond types.

	DATA DEPOSITORY

Table: Type and Description of the Luminescence for the 52 Main Diamonds in the Napoléon Necklace
	Submitted by Eloïse Gaillou
	Winter, 2007 @chapter:21 @chapter:1 @chapter:21


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Do Well By Doing Good: Best Business Practices As a Profit Motive
# Abstract: Andy Bone, director of the Responsible Jewellery Council, discusses three issues the gem and jewelry industry can address to improve business practices. Photo courtesy Responsible Jewellery Council

	Andy Bone readily admits that getting industry players − from local retailers to miners in far-flung gem source areas − to take an active interest in “best business practices” can be a real challenge; especially businesses dealing at a purely local level.

	Bone is the director of the Responsible Jewellery Council, an independent standards-setting organization that promulgates sustainable labor, environmental and trading practices within the gem and jewelry industry. He makes a strong case that these are bottom-line issues for every business, local or not, that his organization can help address.

	Bone comes from a business background – 17 years at De Beers, most recently as its director of international relations – rather than a standards organization like his predecessors, so he understands the bottom line.

	 He likens RJC membership to an insurance policy.

	“Insurance is really managing risk,” he says, in this case from damaging reputational issues instead of fire or theft. “RJC helps cover these risks,” he says, adding that the consequences of failing to address these issues can be very costly today.

	Bone describes the three major risks to the gem and jewelry industry.

	Risk 1: Regulation − Legislation can put costly burdens on legitimate businesses

	“Remember back to the late 1990s when the issue of conflict diamonds came to the fore? We saw a lot of politicians eager to make a name by going after the diamond industry,” he says. “Now, there may be many people in our industry who believe the Kimberley Process [launched in 2000] isn’t relevant to them, but it’s certain that it helped the industry dodge a bullet [of onerous regulation] that saved millions of dollars and thousands of jobs around the world.”

	More recently, he notes, the Conflict Mineral Compliance section of the 2010 Dodd-Frank Wall Street Reform and Consumer Protection Act “would have included diamonds and gems without the industry’s investment in the KP, and the Responsible Jewellery Council, showing that we [the industry] are serious about best business practices.”

	Section 1502 of Dodd-Frank requires extensive reporting and tracking by U.S. businesses that use and trade minerals from areas of conflict, including tin, tungsten and titanium, in order to deter money laundering and financing of activities that can compromise U.S. security or financial institutions. The bill also promotes fair labor and sustainable environmental policies.

	Risk 2: Reputation − diamonds and gems under fire

	He acknowledges that there remains a strong undercurrent from the conflict diamond issue, particularly because synthetic diamond manufacturers are raising the issue and reruns of the “Blood Diamond” movie keep circulating.

	In addition, many think tanks and policy makers have bought into the notion that resources are a curse to many countries because they provide incentives for corruption, civil conflict and environmental damage.

	Finally, the notion that diamonds are a marketing invention without any innate value also continues to circulate.

	“Any of these attacks on our products are a serious business risk,” Bone says. “Particularly today, when it takes only seconds for information to travel around the world, thanks to social media.”

	The RJC helps manage the conversation on these issues, he points out.

	Addressing the so-called “resource curse,” Bone counters that resources are neutral.

	“It’s an issue of governance, not the resource. We can point to Botswana and the prosperity that the diamond industry has brought to what was one of the world’s poorest countries,” he says. “Or look what Norway’s oil reserves have done for that country, with the royalties being used to fund old-age care there.”

	There have been conflicting reports over whether or not the issue of conflict diamonds has dampened consumer demand for them in the U.S. and other Western consumer markets. While many surveys of diamond shoppers say they are not extremely concerned about the issue, Bone doesn’t believe such polls tell the whole story because such shoppers are a tiny minority of the greater population and no one is asking what they think.

	“There’s no sure way of really knowing, but why invite the risk?” he points out. The real point is that membership in the RJC gives companies a strong talking point that they are taking action in a very real way – we can certify the integrity of their supply chains and their own business practices. So, if the issue arises, they can point to the fact that their business operations are fully audited in an open and transparent manner.”

	Bone says that the “marketing invention” notion is something the entire industry needs to address, not just the RJC.

	“On the one hand, yes, diamonds are an invention. But the invention happened 4,000 years ago when people first began valuing them,” says Bone, who also worked in De Beers marketing department in his two decades with the firm. “Today, diamonds have a story − unique attributes that convey things we cannot articulate. And, yes, value is perception and luxury is perception of value. It is all interconnected.”

	Risk 3: Financing – banks obliged to avoid industries that do not practice full disclosure

	The diamond industry already has seen a significant number of lenders leave the industry. Some of this is because many companies do not operate to the degree of transparency required under a set of international regulations known as Basel III.

	Bone again points out that the transparency requirements for joining the RJC offers banks the assurance that their clients are pre-vetted in regard to their business practices, which should make obtaining and keeping financing much easier.

	Bone acknowledges that much of the talk about best practices has focused on “doing the right thing” for its own sake without taking business interests into account.

	“Yes, it’s doing the right thing,” he stresses. “But adhering to these practices makes good commercial sense in today’s environment where information (and misinformation) travels around the world in seconds and governments are growing ever more concerned about the dealings of international businesses large and small.” @chapter:49 @chapter:3 @chapter:49


# Publication Year: 1986
# Title: Fall 1986 G&G Lab Notes
# Abstract: Fused Amber
Diamond Fanciful Cuts Created By Laser Sawing
Natural-Color Light Green Diamonds
Unusual Inclusion in Diamond
Jade Doublet
Dyed Lapis Lazuli
Black Cultured Pearls
A Black Natural Pearl with Unusual Fluorescence
Blue to Gray Saltwater Cultured Pearls
Unusual Yellowish Green Tourmaline

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:18 @chapter:1 @chapter:18


# Publication Year: 2017
# Title: Three Faceted Collector Specimens
# Abstract: Left to right: 0.60 ct golden yellow wagnerite, 1.72 ct colorless thaumasite, and 1.41 ct pale yellow strontianite. Photo by Robison McMurtry.

	Three stones recently submitted to GIA (see above) were found to be rare mineral species that had not previously been examined at the Carlsbad laboratory. Standard gemological testing and Raman analysis identified these specimens as wagnerite, thaumasite, and strontianite.

	A 0.60 ct transparent golden yellow pear brilliant cut with vitreous luster was identified as the phosphate monoclinic crystal wagnerite, (Mg,Fe2+)2(PO4)F. Though uncommon, wagnerite occurs in various geologic settings, such as granitic pegmatites, gneisses, eclogites, and hydrothermal environments (P. Korbel and M. Novak, The Complete Mineral Encyclopedia, Gramercy, Lisse, the Netherlands, 2003). It had a specific gravity (SG) of 3.15, a refractive index (RI) of 1.568–1.580, and a biaxial positive optic nature. Wagnerite is a relatively soft and brittle mineral with a Mohs hardness of 5.0–5.5. The stone was inert under both long-wave and short-wave UV radiation. Multiphase fluid inclusions, fingerprints, graining, and color zoning features were observed with magnification.

	The largest stone, a 1.72 ct transparent colorless octagonal step cut, had a relatively low SG of 1.90, an RI of 1.470–1.515, and a biaxial negative optic nature. It was inert to long-wave and short-wave UV. These properties, along with Raman testing, led to its identification as thaumasite, a silicate mineral with the chemical formula Ca3(SO4)[Si(OH)6](CO3)·12H2O belonging to the hexagonal crystal system. Magnification revealed strong doubling, spectacular radiating fibrous inclusions, reflective films, tiny crystal inclusions, and strong hexagonal angular graining. Thaumasite has a vitreous luster and a brittle nature due to its low hardness of 3.5 on the Mohs scale. Thaumasite occurs in geothermal waters or seawaters reacting with basalt and tuffs, or in areas of contact metamorphism (J.W. Anthony et al., Handbook of Mineralogy: Volume II: Silica, Silicates: Part 2, Mineral Data Publishing, Tucson, Arizona, 1995, p. 790).

	The last stone we observed was a transparent pale yellow octagonal step cut with vitreous luster. It proved to be strontianite, SrCO3, an orthorhombic carbonate mineral member of the aragonite group with a Mohs hardness of 3.5. The 1.41 ct specimen was highly birefringent, with an RI of 1.511–1.661, an SG of 3.76, and a biaxial negative optic nature. It fluoresced red under long-wave UV but displayed a weak whitish reaction under short-wave UV. The stone exhibited strong doubling and fluid inclusions under magnification. Raman spectroscopy confirmed its identity. Strontianite occurs together with calcite and zeolites in hydrothermal, low-temperature veins and in cavities of volcanic rocks (Korbel and Novak, 2003).

	Wagnerite, thaumasite, and strontianite are rarely seen as faceted gems due to their softness and brittleness. These collector specimens were the first of their kind to be submitted to GIA’s Carlsbad laboratory for testing. Although challenging to identify without advanced testing techniques, they bring excitement to gemologists searching for unusual faceted gems. @chapter:15 @chapter:0 @chapter:15


# Publication Year: 2015
# Title: Unusual Graining Structure in Pink Diamond
# Abstract: Left: A colorless hole within a natural pink diamond, observed with darkfield illumination. Field of view approximately 2 mm. Right: The colorless hole in polarized light, showing the cone of strain. Field of view approximately 2 mm. Photos by Nathan Renfro.

	Natural pink diamonds examined for origin of color determination often display visible pink coloring along planes of stress. This graining is visible at a slight angle to the plane and can occur as a single plane or multiple parallel planes. The color may be either uniform or unevenly distributed along the graining. One pink stone recently examined in the Carlsbad lab was noted to have a uniform plane of pink color with a colorless hole, seen in the image on the left. The diamond was graded Very Light pink, so the colored plane had low saturation, but the irregularity was impossible to miss in the microscope. When examined under polarized light, a cone of strain could be seen intersecting the plane and fitting perfectly in the colorless hole, as seen in the image on the right.

	Pink graining is the result of an unknown defect with an unknown formation mechanism (J.G. Chapman and C.J. Noble, “Studies of the pink and blue coloration in Argyle diamonds,” Summer 1999 G&G, pp. 156–157). It seems to be related to the plastic deformation of diamond, evidenced by the color lying along planes of stress. Whether pink graining occurs during diamond growth or is formed after by stresses or heat from the earth (or a combination of the two) is also poorly understood. It is therefore a mystery as to whether the cone of strain formed first or concurrently and prevented the formation of pink graining at the circle of intersection, or if the cone formed afterward and destroyed the color centers associated with pink graining. Until diamond formation is more fully understood, this dynamic interplay of strain will remain a mystery. @chapter:29 @chapter:1 @chapter:29


# Publication Year: 1989
# Title: Polynesian Black Pearls
# Abstract: The 1980s have seen an explosion of interest in the cultured black pearls of French Polynesia, five groups of island archipelagos in the South Pacific. Twenty years ago, black pearls were a mere curiosity appreciated by a handful of people. Today, cultured black pearls, often called Tahitian pearls or Tahitian cultured pearls, can be found in fine jewelry stores throughout the world. @chapter:53 @chapter:4 @chapter:53


# Publication Year: 2013
# Title: Determining the Geographical Origins of Natural Emeralds Through Nondestructive Chemical Fingerprinting
# Abstract: The technology to identify a gemstone’s geologic and geographic origins has improved in the last decade to the point where accurately pinpointing the locality has become a reality. Using emeralds from different mines in the Cordillera Oriental region of Colombia, some of them only a few miles apart, scientists can now discern minute differences in chemical composition and determine each sample’s point of origin by studying the chemical “fingerprints” in their chromophores. The chromophores are trace elements of vanadium, nickel, or magnesium and vary geographically as a result of interstitial fluid migration prior to precipitation.

						After recognizing that within-site chemical homogeneity and cross-site chemical heterogeneity depended on the amount of chromophores in the crystal structure, the authors sought to find out if chemical heterogeneity between emerald mining localities was chemically unique and statistically provable based on chromophore components alone. Included in the study were emerald samples from the Muzo, Cosquez, and Guali mines of Colombia, plus the Campo Verdes and Carnaíba mines in Brazil, and the Chantete mine in Zambia. Consideration for sample inclusion in this study involved the history of the host rock chemistry on the skeletal crystal structure, the occurrence of trace elements that link emeralds to their point of origin, the subsurface geology, fluid-rock interactions and the geochemical processes leading to emerald formation.

						The study concluded that element-based heterogeneity exists between the six emerald mining sites. Through the use of an Amray scanning electron microscope (SEM) coupled to an EDAX energy-dispersive X-ray spectrometer (EDX), statistically significant chemical heterogeneity between mine sites was revealed by a non-destructive test that preserved the integrity of the sample.

Abstracted by James E. Shigley @chapter:16 @chapter:0 @chapter:16


# Publication Year: -
# Title: GIA Field Gemologist Documents Madagascar Ruby Rush
# Abstract: Madagascar Ruby Rush

	Join GIA’s recent field expedition to the ruby rush in Madagascar’s Zahamena National Park.

	The landscapes and people of Madagascar spring vividly to life in this video from GIA’s field gemology department. We invite you to trek through the Malagasy jungle with GIA field gemologist Vincent Pardieu on a quest for ruby. Pardieu’s companions on this arduous two-week trip include cameraman Didier Gruel and gemologist Manuel Diaz. “We’ve been traveling for approximately 98 hours,” says Diaz in the video. “In that 98 hours, we’ve covered not less than 50 kilometers.”

	It’s late September 2015, and Pardieu is in this area in because a ruby “rush” is taking place in the northeast of the island. There’s news of miners converging on a remote area in Zahamena National Park in search of the lucrative red gem. “It’s about 100 kilometers of mountains covered with jungle, in which you have ruby deposits and sapphire deposits everywhere,” remarks Pardieu.

	These new rubies are reportedly similar to ones collected during an earlier rush in Moramanga in 2005, but this time they’re of higher quality overall. While the specimens from the earlier find were mainly candidates for glass filling, most of these newer rubies have no need of that treatment.

	The expedition starts in Antananarivo, Madagascar’s capital and largest city, followed by a drive to the bustling town of Andilamena, where the group stops to buy provisions. It’s more than five hours (382 km) northeast by road from Antananarivo. Here they see evidence that Sri Lankan buyers are becoming more prominent in the Malagasy ruby business. The group visits some dealers and sees rubies from this latest find. “It’s good material,” Pardieu says.

	From there, by way of numerous villages and small settlements, they travel to the site of the new ruby rush. The main mining site, where the current activities started about three months ago, is to the south and east of Andilamena within Zahamena National Park. On the approach to the national park, the going becomes tougher, with the group leaving their vehicles and trekking by foot into the area. “Sometimes you have to do field gemology with the feet,” explains Pardieu with a wry smile.

	As they travel deeper into the national park, the rugged, hilly country and the muddy trails prove challenging. The group has to ford rivers, scale numerous muddy slopes, and transit though many villages where they meet hardworking, hopeful Malagasy people drawn to take their chances digging for precious stones in the absence of other economic opportunities.

	Finally they reach the main mining site, a scene of concentrated activity and bare, exposed earth, where diggers and washers work alongside their makeshift camps.

	“These miners here are motivated,” adds Diaz, looking at the pits the miners have driven into the jungle floor with hand tools and hard labor. The team follows a stream bed in the mining area upslope.

	“If we go up, we’ll be able to find people with bigger stones,” explains Pardieu. As you’ll see in the video, they do find miners with larger rough gems. “For sure, we are the first lab to visit this area,” says Pardieu. “I think we’ll have to do that again next year.” @chapter:51 @chapter:0 @chapter:51


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Spring 2018 G&G: Color Origin of Green Diamonds, Iridescence in Hematite, and the Outlook from Tucson
# Abstract: Colored by atomic-level defect arrangments, natural-color green diamonds are among the rarest gemstones found on Earth. The cover photo showcases diamonds that display a range of green hues. The diamonds in the rings (clockwise from top) are a 4.17 ct Fancy Vivid yellowish green, a 10.18 ct Fancy Intense yellow-green, and a 3.88 ct Fancy Vivid green, respectively. The unmounted diamonds in the top row are a 1.42 ct Fancy Vivid bluish green, a 1.01 ct Fancy Vivid yellowish green, and a 2.06 ct Fancy Vivid green-blue. In the bottom row are a 0.55 ct Fancy Vivid green and a 0.55 ct Fancy Vivid bluish green. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA, courtesy of Optimum Diamonds.

Green is among the rarest hues found in colored diamonds, and there have been few published studies. The lead article of the Spring 2018 Gems & Gemology reviews the characteristics of these uncommon gems as observed at GIA’s labs. Other articles explore the causes of iridescence in Brazilian hematite and the application of DNA techniques to identifying Japanese akoya cultured pearls. The issue also includes coverage of the annual Tucson gem shows, the 2018 Challenge, and the results of the Dr. Edward J. Gübelin Most Valuable Article Award.
NATURAL-COLOR GREEN DIAMONDS: A BEAUTIFUL CONUNDRUM

Natural-color green diamonds such as these beautiful gems span a range of colors. From left to right: Fancy Vivid green-blue (2.06 ct), Fancy Vivid yellow-green (1.01 ct), Fancy Dark gray greenish yellow (3.08 ct), and Fancy Intense yellow-green (2.01 ct). Each of the four main color-causing mechanisms usually produces slightly different green hues. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA, courtesy of Optimum Diamonds.
Diamonds with natural color comprise less than 0.4% of all diamonds submitted to GIA. Of these, stones with a pure green hue are among the rarest. In the last decade, GIA labs have examined more than 50,000 natural-color green diamonds. The lead article, by Christopher M. Breeding, Sally Eaton-Magaña, and James E. Shigley, documents their properties and discusses the radiation exposure and atomic-level defects that cause this hue in diamonds, as well as the difficulties of separating natural-color and treated material.
IRIDESCENCE IN METAMORPHIC “RAINBOW” HEMATITE

Rainbow hematite from the Andrade mine in João Monlevade, Minas Gerais, Brazil. Photo © Rock Currier, Mindat.org.
Rainbow hematite was first uncovered from Minas Gerais, Brazil, and since then it has been used in award-winning jewelry pieces. Xiayang Lin and her coauthors investigate the cause of iridescence in this material through electron microscopy, atomic force microscopy, and synchrotron X-ray diffraction analysis. They assert that the iridescence arises from a periodic microstructure, consisting of spindle-shaped hematite nanocrystals containing minor Al and P impurities, resulting from arrested crystal growth.
DNA TECHNIQUES APPLIED TO THE IDENTIFICATION OF JAPANESE PINCTADA FUCATA PEARLS

Between November and January of each year, pearls are harvested at Uwajima from akoya shells operated on either six months prior (classified by the Japanese as tonen-mono) or 18 months prior (koshi-mono). A: An Uwajima pearl farmer’s work hut. B–F: Various scenes from harvesting in a shed on one of the floating rafts. B: Oysters are removed from a net on the floor to separate the living mollusks from the dead ones. C: After the shells are opened on a table, the adductor muscles are removed and the other soft tissues are separated. D: The liquefied soft tissues containing the bead-cultured pearls are collected in a blue plastic bucket. E: The remaining organic matter containing smaller “keshi” pearls is poured into a separator to remove the keshi pearls. F: The bead-cultured pearls are placed into a wooden box for cleaning and subsequent inspection. Photos by K. Saruwatari.
One of the challenges of modern pearl identification is the separation of saltwater mollusk species that produce white, cream, or silver nacreous pearls. A team led by Kazuko Saruwatari used DNA techniques on akoya pearl-producing mollusks from Uwajima, Ehime Prefecture, Japan, to see if the mollusk species could be pinpointed. The authors were able to amplify the 16S rRNA gene from the mantle tissues of donor and host pearl oysters as well as from tiny amounts of pearl powder, and successfully identified the Pinctada fucata species.
LAB NOTES

A face-up view of the near-colorless 1.21 ct fracture-filled square modified brilliant cut. Photo by Robison McMurtry.
In this issue, reports from GIA’s labs include an HPHT-processed diamond fraudulently represented as untreated, the analysis of five CVD synthetic diamonds greater than three carats, and a natural blister resulting from the entombment of a pearlfish within a P. maxima shell.
MICRO-WORLD

Prominent agate-like banding was seen in the opal. Photomicrograph by Nathan Renfro; field of view 8.22 mm.
Entries in G&G’s section on inclusions and photomicrography spotlight an opal with agate-like banding, a natural diamond with etch channels, and a pink tourmaline crystal within a spodumene host
GEM NEWS INTERNATIONAL

Although traffic at the AGTA show was lighter than in some previous years, demand was brisk and most traders were satisfied with their 2018 business. Photo by Kevin Schumacher.
In addition to our annual Tucson report, GNI features entries on aquamarine from Pakistan’s Shigar Valley, Concho pearls from Texas, and an irradiated and annealed blue type Ia diamond.

The Spring issue also contains the 2018 Gems & Gemology Challenge quiz. Score 75% or better and you’ll receive a certificate of completion (PDF file); earn a perfect score and your name will be listed in the Fall 2018 issue. Mail-in cards and online entries for the Challenge must be submitted by Friday, August 10, 2018. @chapter:18 @chapter:1 @chapter:18


# Publication Year: 2015
# Title: Fine Corundum, Demantoid Garnet
# Abstract: Figure 1. This unheated 8.56 ct intense pink sapphire represents the very best of recent production from Madagascar. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA; courtesy of B&B Fine Gems.

At the AGTA show, Dave Bindra (B&B Fine Gems, Los Angeles) showed us some exceptional corundum, especially fine untreated yellow and pink sapphires.

The first standout piece Bindra showed us was an 8.56 ct unheated, intense pink sapphire of extremely high clarity from Madagascar. Under the lights of our photo studio, it showed an intense pink hue (figure 1). A gem of this quality might expect to realize a wholesale price in the region of $10,000 to $15,000 per carat. Bindra noted that Madagascar is producing some superb fancy sapphire, including pink, violet, and “padparadscha” colors.

	B&B Fine Gems

In this interview, Dave Bindra of B&B Fine Gems showcases fine pink and yellow sapphire, Mozambique ruby, and a superb suite of Russian demantoid garnet. He explains how increased consumption in markets outside the U.S. and Europe is affecting gem supply and forcing many colored gem dealers to turn to the “recirculated” market for their clients.
Although this pink gem represented recent production, Bindra explained that the secondary market has become an extremely important source for many dealers now that competition for freshly mined goods is so intense, particularly from buyers serving Asian markets. These recirculated gems coming back onto the market offer a way for dealers to procure stones that often surpass current production in size and quality, or are simply unobtainable today. As an example, Bindra cited an 89.55 ct unheated golden sapphire from Sri Lanka (figure 2), remarking that he had not seen material of this color emerge from the ground in Sri Lanka for more than 10 years. Originally this gem was somewhat larger, over 100 ct. Modern cutting reduced the weight slightly but produced a dramatic improvement in color and brilliance. Bindra described this gem’s appearance and stature as “world class.” As such, it would likely command a wholesale price in excess of $3,000 per carat.

Bindra next showed us a blend of new production and recirculated stones: a graduated suite of 12 perfectly matched Russian demantoid garnet round brilliants. Each gem contained a classic “horsetail” inclusion. Weighing in at 20 carats total, the suite took Bindra four years to complete. He described it as a special item, with the stones from the secondary market selected and recut to perfectly match the newer gems.

Figure 2. This exceptional unheated 89.55 ct golden sapphire from Sri Lanka is an example of a recirculated stone. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA; courtesy of B&B Fine Gems.
For Bindra, Mozambique is the future of ruby production. He illustrated this with three fine heated gems from the Montepuez deposit weighing 7.05, 7.92, and 9.35 ct (figure 3). Although all three stones represented beautiful, clean material, he considered the 7.92 ct gem the finest, due to its superior brilliance and intense red hue. Due to the ongoing trade embargo with Myanmar, classic “Burmese” ruby is unobtainable for U.S. dealers. Fine Mozambique rubies like these in the 7–9 ct range are in high demand and exceptionally rare. Gems larger than 4 or 5 ct are increasingly hard to find, Bindra pointed out.

Figure 3. Left to right: These heated rubies from Mozambique weigh 7.05, 7.92, and 9.35 ct. Photos by Robert Weldon/GIA; courtesy of B&B Fine Gems.
Unlike Myanmar, Mozambique does not carry the stigma of human rights abuses. The heat treatment of these rubies is not an issue with consumers, either. As Bindra explained, the market for top natural unheated ruby has now reached such rarified levels that buyers are very receptive to high-quality heated rubies. (The current auction record is held by an unheated 8.62 ct Graff ruby, of Burmese origin, which sold for $8,372,094—or $994,040 per carat—at a Sotheby’s Geneva auction in September 2014.) Purchasing such expensive stones is a stretch even for the top 1% of consumers. By contrast, stones like the three Bindra showed us wholesale in the region of $35,000 to $50,000 per carat. He said gems like these are “quite consumable” and can be the centerpieces of wearable jewelry, meaning they will occasionally be seen outside of safe deposit boxes.

Bindra faces the same issue as many other colored stone dealers in Tucson: scarcity of new rough production due to intense competition between the U.S. market and buyers purchasing for Chinese consumers. This is the major driver for dealers looking for alternative sources of gems such as recirculated goods, he said.

The new wealth in China has created a different dynamic. For more than 50 years, American and European consumers have been the main buyers of fine gemstones, he explained. Now these established markets have competition, and Bindra and many of his colleagues in the business supply gems to these competitors as well. Besides China, other cultures—India, for instance—have a rich jewelry heritage, and consuming gems is ingrained. This trend is not going to change, so there will be more wealthy consumers in emerging markets that desire colored gems, and current producers will struggle to meet demand.

In terms of demand at the show, Bindra reported that rubies and unheated sapphires were quite strong. There was demand for anything rare and exotic, goods that the average consumer would not find elsewhere. He also saw renewed demand for emerald. In the past, he noted a “certain favoritism” toward Colombian emerald, but increased supplies of quality gems from Zambia have made it a much more popular source and established the “Zambian brand” in people’s minds. @chapter:23 @chapter:0 @chapter:23


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Paspaley Pearl Auction Shows Signs of Market Revival
# Abstract: Buyers at the 53rd Paspaley Pearl Auction at the Hong Kong Convention Centre examine lots of white South Sea and golden pearls. Buyers place written bids for each lot in a sealed box that is opened at the close of the three-day sale. Photo by Russell Shor/GIA

                      The market for cultured saltwater pearls has softened this year as growth in Chinese demand has slowed, according to dealers at the recent September Hong Kong Gem and Jewellery Fair.

Demand from China had pushed prices up some 30% in the previous two years, while expenses remained relatively flat, so dealers noted that they could weather the corrections in the market.

Demand for Akoya, white and gold South Sea pearls, and Tahitian black pearls was down several percentage points through the first half of the year. Prices and demand were starting to “edge upward” at the Paspaley Pearling Company Hong Kong auction, however, said the company officials who oversaw the sale.

	A single lot of 519 South Sea cultured pearls weighing 448.6 momme (1 momme = 3.75 grams) offered at the September Paspaley Pearl Auction in Hong Kong. Photo by Russell Shor/GIA
The company invited 141 pearl dealers – regular clients – to the annual three-day, invitation-only auction. Officials said 110 from Japan, China, the U.S. and Europe registered by the middle of the second day, and more were expected, which they said was good sign for the fall.

Producers such as Paspaley, whose main output is high-end white South Sea goods, sell most of their productions at such auctions. The goods are separated into lots according to size, weight and quality, including shape, color, luster and orient.

Because the Japanese Yen is the dominant currency for the industry – tracing back to the period when that country was the only major pearl culturing center – it is how reserve prices are given.

	Lots of golden South Sea pearls produced in the Philippines were divided into various sizes, shapes and colors. Photo by Russell Shor/GIA
Paspaley’s offerings included white goods from the company’s farm in Northern Australia, contract producers in Indonesia and golden cultured pearls from a farm in the Philippines, which the company owns with Japanese and Chinese partners.

Pearl dealers agreed with Paspaley that the market had grown increasingly dependent on China in the past four years as demand for higher-end pearls grew very slowly or not at all in Japan and Western countries. In addition, competition is increasing from Chinese freshwater pearls, which are continually improving in quality and variety. @chapter:56 @chapter:2 @chapter:56


# Publication Year: 2016
# Title: Synthetic Sapphire and Synthetic Spinel Doublets
# Abstract: Figure 1. These two doublets, a 6.45 ct greenish yellow oval mixed cut and a 4.17 ct greenish yellow cushion mixed cut, contained a synthetic spinel crown and a synthetic sapphire pavilion. Photo by Robison McMurtry.

	Assemblages have been used to imitate various gemstones for many years. Some of the most common are garnet and glass doublets, sapphire and synthetic corundum doublets, synthetic spinel triplets, and beryl triplets.

	The Carlsbad laboratory recently examined two uncommon doublets: a 6.45 ct greenish yellow oval mixed cut and a 4.17 ct greenish yellow cushion mixed cut (figure 1). Initial microscopic observation revealed a separation plane near both girdles with flattened, trapped gas bubbles in colorless cement (figure 2, center). The green crowns were joined to the yellow pavilions with this colorless cement (figure 2, left). An RI of 1.728 and whitish chalky fluorescence under short-wave UV on both crowns were suggestive of synthetic spinel. One of the doublets showed thick green curved color banding. Photoluminescence (PL) emission spectra identified the crowns as synthetic spinel.

	Figure 2. Left: The green crown and yellow pavilions of the 6.45 ct oval mixed cut are easily observed in immersion. Center: A separation plane near the girdle with a flattened, trapped gas bubble; field of view 1.76 mm. Right: Parallel twining planes in the pavilion; field of view 2.90 mm. Photomicrographs by Nathan Renfro.

	In both doublets, the pavilion had a refractive index of 1.760 to 1.768 and was inert to UV radiation. The two assemblages were clean and showed only twining planes (figure 2, right). Faint yellow curved color banding was visible when they were immersed in methylene iodide and observed with a blue color filter. EDXRF analysis showed a chemical composition consistent with synthetic corundum. They contained Ni as a trace element and no Fe, Ga, or Ti.

	Microscopic observation and advanced gemological testing confirmed that these were doublets consisting of a synthetic spinel crown and a synthetic sapphire pavilion, joined together with a colorless cement. These are the first assemblages of synthetic spinel and synthetic sapphire observed by GIA. @chapter:19 @chapter:0 @chapter:19


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Rose Quartz Quality Factors
# Abstract: This faceted rose quartz briolette weighs 18.29 carats. Its pastel color is a lovely example of the soft pink this gem is known for. - Robert Weldon, courtesy The Greenwood Group

                      The soft translucence and pale pink to deep pink shades of rose quartz appeal to gem lovers as well as crystal collectors.

Color
Rose quartz gets its name from its delicate pink color, ranging from very light pink (almost white) to medium-dark pink.

	It’s not uncommon to see some quartz varieties with color zoning. This rose quartz exhibits rich purple-pink areas of color.
Clarity
Tiny inclusions are responsible for the translucent appearance of most rose quartz. Finest-quality rose quartz is often transparent, so it’s usually faceted.

	Tiny fractures can cause a cloudy appearance, even in fine-quality faceted rose quartz. - Robert Weldon
Cut
The inclusions in rose quartz can create a display of asterism when the gem is cut as a cabochon. It might also be faceted or fashioned into beads.

	The cabochon cut promotes a striking star effect, called asterism, in this 170-ct. rose quartz. - Ricardo Cardenas
Carat Weight
Rose quartz is available in sizes large enough to inspire gem designers and carvers. Fashioned gems in larger sizes often display more intense color.

	Gem designer John Dyer’s Regal Radiant cut shows off the pastel pink color and large size of this 63.37-ct. rose quartz. - Lydia Dyer, Gem courtesy John Dyer & Co.

	An exquisite viola carved in rose quartz with 18K gold accents is featured in the “Symphony in Gemstones” collection. The gemstone “orchestra” was carved by Lothar Hermann of Idar-Oberstein, Germany. – Robert Weldon, gift of Art Sexauer @chapter:27 @chapter:0 @chapter:27


# Publication Year: 2015
# Title: Tucson 2015 Overview
# Abstract: Figure 1. Many sellers at Tucson were displaying very large, fine, or unusual gems that had been held in inventory for years. Photo by Duncan Pay/GIA; courtesy of Noor Gems Japan Ltd.

Once again, buyers and sellers from all over the world converged on a corner of the American Southwest for the annual Tucson gem shows. Many broad trends continued from 2014: Consuming markets are hungry for fine colored gems, and demand still outstrips supply, causing prices for some gems to reach new highs. As more buyers from Asia compete for new production of rough gemstones, the secondary market is becoming more important for domestic dealers. Many recycled gems and jewelry pieces were returning to the market through estate sales, or directly from owners lured by all-time high prices. Some sellers were showing items that had been held in inventory for years or even decades (figure 1). These included fine corundum, Imperial topaz, red spinel, and aquamarine. We noted that many of these “recirculated” goods were exceptional gems, superior to newly mined production. Many vendors are unable to source new production at prices their clientele are prepared to pay.

Cultured pearls of every type were in high demand—especially from the Chinese market. The same was true of rubellite and “watermelon” tourmaline, tsavorite, and spinel, especially red to pink material from Mahenge, Tanzania.

Overall, we observed several clear trends:

Many gem-quality stones were cut in nontraditional shapes such as cabochons, fantasy cuts, carvings (figure 2), and even slices.
Many jewelry pieces had an organic, natural feel. Similarly, non-round pearls—particularly large baroque shapes—were also everywhere. The freeform shapes of many opals also fit well with natural-shape trends for jewelry, lending themselves to carved flowers, animals, and abstract pieces.
Designers were seeking out unusual colors for standard gems: fancy-color sapphires, colored diamonds, tourmalines, spinel, garnets, zoisite, zircon, and beryl (morganite was very much in demand).
Many vendors told us they left their “traditional” inventory items at home, as they can sell those at any time. The Tucson crowd demands the unusual (figure 3), so vendors brought nontraditional items and were reportedly selling them at a good pace.
Even though red-brown “Marsala” was named the Pantone color of the year for 2015, it did not appear to be an overall favorite, with the most observed colors being bright blues, greens, and pinks.
The largest crowds observed at the wholesale shows were gathered at the booths selling nontraditional gem materials such as cabochons, druzy, tourmalinated and rutilated quartz (again, see figure 2), and crystal slices—material typically used in “craft” jewelry.
Opal (figure 4) was prominent: There was an abundance of Ethiopian hydrophane opal, Australian opal, Mexican fire opal, and material from the U.S. Recent finds in Ethiopia have generated a buzz for all types, according to several vendors.

View Gallery

Figures 2-4
Foot traffic at the main AGTA and GJX shows appeared down from 2014, but most merchants reported brisk sales, especially of very fine or unique items. In fact, many vendors mentioned that this was their best show in recent years. Eric Braunwart of Columbia Gem House (Vancouver, Washington) said he had forgotten what a “good year was like” until this show.

Alexander Wild (Wild & Petsch Lapidaries, Kirschweiler, Germany) provided a broad-brush market update from his firm’s perspective. Rough prices for many gems continued on an upward trajectory, he reported. Just a few years ago, fine-color, high-clarity rubellite tourmaline sold at wholesale for $300 to $350 per carat. These numbers reflected the asking price for superb quality, with perhaps just a few tiny inclusions. In 2015, prices for equivalent material are almost triple that figure.

As in the previous year, sourcing rough gems remains a problem, although it is by no means impossible for established companies with good connections in source countries, such as Wild & Petsch. The company is able to source quality rough, though prices are definitely higher for many goods. Since mid-2014, prices for many other commodities such as oil and copper have fallen. But gemstone rough prices continue to rise, largely due to demand from China. In Wild’s opinion, such high prices are unsustainable. He wondered how long this would continue, asking rhetorically, “Is this a gem bubble?”

Asked what was in demand, he answered that it was the gemstones Wild & Petsch is known for: fine tourmaline and beryl. With their African connections, they secured a nice production of Paraíba-type copper-bearing tourmaline from Mozambique, along with good parcels of aquamarine. As a result, they were able to offer their clientele this material at what Wild considered very fair market prices. In contrast, supply of rubellite and pink tourmaline rough is quite difficult, and most of his supply has been coming from Nigeria. Brazilian rubellite is basically unavailable.

Figure 5. The Cruzeiro mine, the Miranda Group, and KGK work together to bring Brazil’s bicolor and rubelite tourmaline to the market in China. The Cruzeiro mine provides the rough to the Miranda Group, which cuts the material. Photo by Andrew Lucas; courtesy of Miranda Group Co. Ltd.
[Editor’s note: In a 2014 visit to Brazil’s Cruzeiro mine in Minas Gerais State, a GIA team witnessed recovery of large facet-grade rubellite crystals (figure 5), which were all put aside for exclusive sale to a consortium—composed of the Miranda Group and KGK—that fashions the material at its own factory in Shenzhen, China, for the Chinese market (figures 6 and 7). Only blue to green production was available for sale to local and export markets.]

Figure 6. Rough tourmaline crystals are sliced or sawn by the Miranda Group in Hong Kong, then faceted and polished at their factory in Shenzhen. Photo by Andrew Lucas; courtesy of Miranda Group Co. Ltd. (VRL: 179216)

Figure 7. Fine Brazilian rubellite tourmaline at the Miranda Group’s factory in Shenzhen—most of these cut stones are larger than 10 ct. The factory needs to receive 100 kilos of rough per month to meet production goals of 25,000 to 30,000 carats. KGK markets and sells the cut stones and also mounts them into jewelry for sale, primarily in China. Photo by Andrew Lucas; courtesy of Miranda Group Co. Ltd.
Adjusting to price fluctuations has always been part of life for colored stone merchants, Wild conceded, but not sudden, successive increases to levels that are three, four, or five times higher than the market was previously accustomed to (see www.gia.edu/gia-news-research-miranda-journey-of-rubellite-tourmaline).

Wild offered the possibility that at some point a single market will be satisfied—even one as large as China’s. When that happens, suppliers will have to find other markets for these goods. Wild believes the North American and European markets are more sophisticated in terms of pricing—especially for cut goods—than China’s current market. There is also the possibility that any political upheavals there could cause rough prices for certain gems to go down sharply, he said. And that could spell trouble for some miners who base their operations on today’s historically high rough gem prices.

Wild said business at the 2015 show had been better than the year before. He reckoned business was a third above 2014, with some big-ticket items—including a fine aquamarine suite—spoken for prior to the show. He confirmed our impression that traffic was down slightly from last year—possibly due to fewer Asian buyers or the winter travel difficulties on the U.S. East Coast.

Wild intimated that many clients came with specific requirements in mind, particularly aquamarine or Paraíba-type tourmaline, and selection was good for these gems at this year’s show. He mentioned they had even sold a few collectors’ pieces, including a beautiful large green step-cut beryl that measured more than 200 ct. That was a surprise to him, because such items have proven more difficult to sell the last few years.

“Everyone is searching for good things,” Wild concluded. “For the most part, we get what we need.” Asked if the trend is still toward finer, more unique pieces, Wild responded, “Absolutely. I think quality still comes first. A lot of the trends from last year still apply, and we’re still waiting to see if there’s going to be any deflation in pricing for some goods.”
Once again, G&G greatly appreciates the assistance of the many friends who shared material and information with us this year, with special thanks to the American Gem Trade Association for providing photography studio space during the AGTA show. Dr. Tao Hsu, Andy Lucas, Donna Beaton, Pedro Padua, and Dr. Jennifer Stone-Sundberg contributed to these reports. @chapter:38 @chapter:3 @chapter:38


# Publication Year: 1994
# Title: Copper and Tenorite Inclusions in Cuprian-Elbaite Tourmaline from Paraíba, Brazil
# Abstract: Inclusions of native copper and tenorite (CuO) were found in grayish green elbaite from São José da Batalha, Paraíba, Brazil. Native copper forms strongly dendritic platelets (about 100 µ long, 1 µ thick) oriented parallel to the c-axis of the host crystal in a trigonal arrangement. The much less abundant tenorite forms 20-30 µplaty grains. Electron microprobe analyses revealed that the tourmaline is cuprian elbaite (1 wt. % CuO), with significant contents of iron (2.7-3.1 wt. % FeO) and manganese (0.9-1.4 wt. % MnO). The CuO content of tourmaline around the native copper decreases toward these inclusions up to a factor of two. No such decrease in CuO was observed for the tenorite inclusions. @chapter:12 @chapter:0 @chapter:12


# Publication Year: 2017
# Title: Update on Mozambique Ruby Mining and Trading
# Abstract: Figure 1. The main ruby mining areas of northern Mozambique. Those labeled in red are worked by Gemfields, and those in yellow by Mustang Resources. Green, pink, and blue areas are worked by garimpeiros; the green areas show where they are allowed to mine. Pink and blue represent sites inside MRM and Mozambican Ruby, respectively.
Less than 10 years after discoveries inside the Niassa Reserve in 2008 and near Montepuez in 2009, rubies from northern Mozambique have taken a significant place in the trade. During the first few years, production came exclusively from unlicensed miners known as garimpeiros, who sold their production mainly to Thai, Sri Lankan, Tanzanian, and West African traders. The stones were smuggled to cutting and trading centers such as Thailand. The situation changed when Gemfields, which acquired mining licenses near Montepuez in 2011 and began operations in 2012, held its first rough ruby auction in Singapore in June 2014.

Since 2015, three factors have affected that dynamic, starting with an efficient low-temperature heat treatment technique developed in Sri Lanka and brought to Mozambique. As the treatment is very difficult to detect without lab instrumentation on faceted stones and even more so on rough, the challenge for dealers buying stones from garimpeiros was to avoid paying unheated ruby prices for stones that had been already heated. Many buyers purchased heated rough in Montepuez only to find out later in Thailand about their costly mistake. Within a few months, confidence in the stones from that network deteriorated and dealers found out that the only safe options for unheated rubies were to buy directly from Gemfields or to get reliable laboratory testing on any stones obtained elsewhere. The situation became difficult for those willing to take their chances buying illegally in Mozambique.

In early 2016, another significant change took place when the Mozambican government changed its policy on garimpeiros. Before 2016 the garimpeiros were, legally speaking, “informal” small-scale miners. The only legal issue was that they had no license. The police were only allowed to confiscate their mining equipment and question them before releasing them. But in 2016, mining for gemstones or gold without a license became a crime punishable by three years in jail. In February 2017 the government, which was facing major fiscal problems, changed tactics: Instead of taking legal action against garimpeiros, they would target buyers hiding in the towns. Several police operations were launched in Cabo Delgado, and many foreign buyers (mainly Tanzanian, Thai, Sri Lankan, and West African) were arrested, fined, and expelled. Rubies quickly became more scarce in the Thai markets. This probably explains why Gemfields had its most successful ruby auction ever in June 2017, recording more than US$54 million in sales.

Finally, as previously reported (W. Vertriest and V. Pardieu, “Update on mining in northern Mozambique,” Winter 2016 G&G, pp. 404–409), two new mining companies, Mustang Resources and then Mozambican Ruby (formerly known as Metals of Africa), began operations near Napula village, north of the road linking Montepuez to Pemba in areas neighboring Gemfields. As these companies have not yet sold any production, their impact is still unknown.

In June 2017, the author visited northern Mozambique (figure 1) for the sixth consecutive year to collect reference samples. This time it was for Danat, the newly formed Bahrain Institute for Pearls & Gemstones. The team was composed of jewelry designer Erica Courtney; Dr. Cedric Simonet, a geologist with extensive experience in East African gem deposits; and a photographer and videographer.

Unlike previous years, we visited the area at an early stage of the dry season, which extends from June to November. The land was still green, and upon arriving we were struck by the lack of activity at the main garimpeiro villages on the road between Pemba and Montepuez. While in previous years we could see thousands of people and hundreds of shops at Nanupiu and Namahumbire, this time there were maybe a few hundred people in the streets and most of the shops were closed. It seemed that most of the garimpeiros had moved to other parts of the country.

MRM (Montepuez Ruby Mining): Our visit to the MRM mine, owned by Gemfields and its local partner Mwiriti Limitada, took place during the record-breaking ruby auction in Singapore and a few days after Pallinghurst, Gemfields’ main shareholder, attempted a takeover. We also saw representatives from the Chinese conglomerate Fosun, which was also looking to acquire Gemfields. The mine staff was thrilled by the results of the Singapore auction but uncertain about Gemfields’ future. Afterward we learned that Pallinghurst was successful in the takeover. Gemfields was delisted from the London Stock Exchange on July 28, and a few days later Gemfields CEO Ian Harebottle announced his resignation. He was replaced by Sean Gilbertson.

Besides the excitement about the auction and the legitimate questions about the future of Gemfields, we observed some interesting changes at MRM. First, MRM continued to improve its mining and sorting capacity. Figure 2 shows a dense media separation (DMS) plant that became operational in December 2016, replacing the previous system of pulsating jigs. The results were said to be very encouraging, particularly regarding small material. Before, all material under 3 mm was rejected and stockpiled. With the new DMS plant, rubies under 3 mm can be collected very efficiently, and MRM’s washing capacity has increased from 80 to about 150 tons per hour in ideal conditions. The sorting house scheduled to go next to the new DMS plant in 2017 will not be completed before summer 2018. Visiting the existing sorting house, we saw few improvements in rough processing efficiency. The author was able to once again select samples from recent production. These were mainly high-clarity, attractive rubies from the classic Mugloto/Machamba area, which has produced most of the stones auctioned by Gemfields since 2014.

Figure 2. An aerial view of MRM’s new ruby washing plant, which uses dense media separation. Photo courtesy of Gemfields.
Exploration continues, meanwhile, and mining is being planned for new areas east and west of the current pits at Mugloto/Machamba (producing secondary-type, iron-rich material with high clarity) or Maninge Nice (producing primary-type stones with moderate iron content and more inclusions and fractures). Glass, a secondary deposit south of Maninge Nice, was not bringing as much as expected, as it had been extensively worked by garimpeiros since 2009.

In summer 2017, the MRM mine employed 450 people. Including security and contractors, that number is more than 1,100 employees. Concrete houses have replaced the cargo containers once used as living quarters, and life there is now much more comfortable. Since the construction of the main camp, MRM has been able to focus on corporate social responsibility, and we could see significant results that have improved MRM’s image in local communities. The company has built schools at Namahumbire and Nseve. We saw two chicken farms that appeared to be sustainable, and six farming associations created and supported by Gemfields. At Nseve, we visited a farming pilot program that could become very successful, as the area was fertile during Portuguese colonial times when the nearby reservoir was built. Agriculture disappeared after the civil war, which destroyed the local communities and the economy. MRM is also financing a mobile health clinic, enabling government doctors to visit different villages each day to serve those with little access to health care. Finally, we could see that Gemfields was continuing to support conservation and community development in the Niassa Reserve with the “Niassa Lion” project.

Mustang Resources: In 2016, the author reported on the emergence of Mustang Resources, which acquired mining licenses in 2015. At the time they were focused on exploration and camp infrastructure. Mustang has been quite active, and the operation now employs about 130 people. A modern washing plant using rotary plants (figure 3) is in place. Jigs (the small “Bushman jig” version used for prospecting) and a small sorting house have been built. Mustang decided to concentrate on LP01, a promising area in the south of the concession where gem-rich gravels could be found at less than one meter depth. Operating at such shallow depth is inexpensive, as there is little overburden to be removed. The area had been discovered by garimpeiros (figure 4), and we saw mining from both Mustang and local villagers.

Figure 3. Mustang Resources’ new washing plant consists of two rotary pans equipped with trammel screens and log washers. Its current capacity is about 600 tons per day. Photo by Vincent Pardieu.

Figure 4. A garimpeiro working near the LP01 pit inside Mustang Resources’ concession near Napula village excavates the ruby-rich gravel under the topsoil. Photo by Vincent Pardieu.
The stones are similar to those found in Glass or around Nacaca village (an area open for garimpeiros to the east of the Gemfields concession). This means that these are mainly secondary-type rubies that spent millions of years in gravels and show some abrasion. They have a fine pink to deep red color and are quite clean with rare fractures, but they tend to be smaller and their color is brighter than the production at Mugloto/Machamba, which has a higher iron content. We saw several fine clean rough stones up to 10 carats, but most of the production was under 1 carat.

We were informed that Mustang planned to have its first rough ruby auction at the end of November 2017 in Mauritius, as several tens of kilos had already been mined.

Mozambican Ruby Lda.: While significant changes were visible in areas worked by Mustang and MRM, the same could not be said for Mozambican Ruby Lda. The project was clearly still in an early stage, with only a few employees and very basic equipment. The exploration program has nevertheless advanced considerably since last year, and more equipment is expected to arrive this year. The project is led by a small private company with a rather cautious approach. We visited the different pits mined by garimpeiros during the author’s previous visit in 2016. The two pits at Castro were flooded and mainly being used by garimpeiros as a water reserve for washing the gravel they collected around the pit. The area seems to have great potential.

Our visit to the Montepuez area showed the evolution of ruby mining by MRM, Mustang, and Mozambican Ruby Lda., as well as by the garimpeiros. It now seems that the legally operating mining companies are gaining the upper hand over the garimpeiros and the foreign buyers who smuggle stones to trading centers in Tanzania, Sri Lanka, and Thailand. It will be interesting to see what happens with Gemfields under Pallinghurst’s full control and the impact of forthcoming production from Mustang. @chapter:23 @chapter:2 @chapter:23


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Book Review: The Secret Teachings of Gemcutting: 50 Classic Gemstone Designs
# Abstract: By Justin K. Prim, hardcover (US$100) and spiralbound (US$80), 237 pp., illus., publ. by Magus Publishing, 2021. Photo by Diego Sanchez.

In the world of gemology, books are rarely published on the subject of lapidary arts or gem cutting. The most recent of such books that this author can recall is the invaluable two-volume reference guide by Tom Herbst titled Amateur Gemstone Faceting (2014). In all likelihood, the reason we don’t see more books on the subject is that there isn’t much new information to be added to the volume of work already available. However, Justin Prim has found a gap in the available published work on faceting and filled it with The Secret Teachings of Gemcutting: 50 Classic Gemstone Designs.
In this 237-page book, the reader will find that the first 32 pages contain explanatory notes on how to use the book, basic information on gemstone design, gemology, evaluating rough, and a brief summary of the history of gemstone design. The following 200 or so pages are the reference portion dedicated to the 50 classic gem designs with detailed cutting instructions and related diagrams. This section has been neatly organized by shape and cutting style, covering round, oval, cushion, square, rectangle, emerald, fancy, and other historic and rose cut gem designs. Hobbyist faceters who are most familiar with meetpoint faceting (using the intersection of facets, or meetpoints of three facets as a reference for facet placement) may find the cutting instructions a bit challenging. The designs presented are not well suited to the meetpoint style, as none of the designs utilizes a faceted girdle, except for square, rectangular, and emerald cut stones. However, the cutting method outlined with its curved girdle is largely responsible for giving this faceting style its very classic appeal. In the author’s experience, most other widely available reference books on faceting have not focused on gem design in this way, and Mr. Prim has done a wonderful job in filling that gap. He has also provided cutting angles for high and low refractive index gems, another novel approach not often seen in instructional gem cutting books that will prove to be highly valuable to the reader.
To test the information presented in the book, I used a rectangular cushion mixed-cut diagram to facet an 11.16 ct pink synthetic sapphire. The instructions and angles worked nicely, and the design was also “test cut” in the computer-aided design faceting software GemCad with no issues. Aside from the curved unfaceted girdle style, which this reviewer was not familiar with but picked up quickly, the work went smoothly and the explanations offered were very easy to understand. Any reasonably experienced gem cutter will find the information in this book very useful.

This reviewer used the information and diagrams in Prim’s book to facet this 11.16 ct synthetic sapphire in a classic rectangular cushion mixed-cut design. Photo by Nathan Renfro.
The Secret Teachings of Gemcutting is available in either a hardcover ($100) or a clever spiralbound softcover ($80) that will prove useful in its ability to lie flat while referencing the cutting diagrams while faceting. The printing is on high-quality heavy paper, and the handsome design and layout are very minimalistic and pleasing to the eye. This reference book will be extremely appealing to anyone interested in faceting gems. The project was originally offered as a Kickstarter crowdfunding campaign, and copies of the book at the time of this review are available for order at www.magusgems.com. @chapter:34 @chapter:3 @chapter:34


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Winter 1989 G&G Book Reviews
# Abstract: “The Retail Jeweller’s Guide, 5th Edition”
By Kenneth Blakemore, 412 pp., illus., publ. by Butterworths, Great Britain, 1988. US$49.95

“Artists' Jewellery: Pre-Raphaelite to Arts and Crafts”
By Charlotte Cere and Geoffrey C. Munn, 244 pp., illus., publ. by The Antique Collectors' Club, Woodbridge, Suffolk, U.K., 1989. US$69.50

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:25 @chapter:2 @chapter:25


# Publication Year: 2017
# Title: Kyanite: A Rare Blue Guest in Diamond
# Abstract: A deep blue kyanite crystal inside a 2.23 ct diamond identifies its host as being of eclogitic origin. Photomicrograph by Nathan Renfro; field of view 2.18 mm.

Few landscapes in the micro-world of minerals are as exciting as those encountered within diamonds, which can tell us much about the world from which this most precious of gems originates: the otherwise inaccessible deep earth (J.I. Koivula and E.A. Skalwold, “The microworld of diamonds: Images from the earth’s mantle,” Rocks & Minerals, Vol. 89, No. 1, 2014, pp. 46–51). Of the minerals found as inclusions in diamonds, a few are very deeply colored, due to their strong saturation at any dimension (e.g., red chromium-containing pyrope or a vivid green diopside) or their relatively large size (e.g., olivine crystals that are less saturated with diminishing size, ultimately becoming colorless). While ruby is considered one of the rarest inclusions encountered in diamond, inclusions that are vivid blue hold a similar rank. When discovered in routine examination of a diamond gemstone, they elicit not just breathless appreciation for their exquisite hue, but also anticipation of what they might turn out to be.

So it was with great interest that we examined an intensely saturated rounded blue inclusion within a 2.23 ct diamond (see above), a rarity greatly exceeding that of a flawless diamond gemstone. In this case, Raman analysis was used to non-destructively identify the crystal as kyanite, a mineral that occurs only in diamonds of eclogitic origin. This crystal is remarkable for its size (about 0.60 mm long), which in part accounts for its deep color; smaller crystals range from pale blue to colorless. Such colored mineral inclusions in diamonds should not be regarded as imperfections, but rather as hallmarks of beauty and as windows into our planet’s deepest secrets. At the very least, they are a compelling invitation from the micro-world to embark on a fascinating scientific adventure. @chapter:52 @chapter:1 @chapter:52


# Publication Year: 1993
# Title: Two Near-Colorless General Electric Type-IIA Synthetic Diamond Crystals
# Abstract: Gemological examination of two near-colorless, isotopically pure, carbon-12 synthetic diamonds grown recently by General Electric reveals short-wave ultraviolet luminescence behavior, a cathodoluminescence pattern, and small metallic inclusions that are typical of other gem-quality synthetic diamonds. These characteristics also help separate them from natural type-IIa diamonds. Study of additional near-colorless synthetic diamonds is needed to confirm these preliminary observations. @chapter:22 @chapter:1 @chapter:22


# Publication Year: 1988
# Title: Fall 1988 Gem News International
# Abstract: Diamonds
            Angolan Guerilla Leaders Announce Huge Deposits
            Large Chinese Diamond Discovered
            Mwadui Mine (Tanzania) To Get New Source of Power
            New Alluvial Deposit in Namibia
            News from Murfreesboro
Colored Stones
            Change-of-Color Garnets
            Washington State Garnets
            New Mexico Moonstone
            Alaskan Nephrite Jade
            Opal from Oregon
            Sri Lanka
            Sapphirine from Greenland and Canada
            New Find of Zircons
Pearls
            New Form of Cultured Pearl
Synthetics
            A New Hard Material
            New Use for Synthetic Quartz
Announcements
            NRC Announces New Regulations
            Gemological Digest Available from Thailand
            1989 Tucson Gem & Mineral Show

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:17 @chapter:0 @chapter:17


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Spinel Care and Cleaning Guide
# Abstract: Spinel is a magnificent-but-rare stone that is durable enough to be worn in all types of jewelry. - Courtesy Thomas Baross

Hardness and toughness
Gem and mineral hardness is measured on the Mohs scale. The numbers are based on the relative ease or difficulty with which one mineral can be scratched by another. But the Mohs scale is deceptive. The steps between the minerals are not evenly spaced. For example, diamond is only one number away, but it’s many times harder than gems in the corundum family.

	Spinel ranks 8 on the Mohs hardness scale.
Spinel ranks 8 on the Mohs scale and has good toughness, making it a durable gem for jewelry.

Stability
High heat can cause some spinel colors to fade, but spinel is stable when exposed to light and chemicals.

Cleaning
While ultrasonic cleaners and steam cleaners are usually safe, certain inclusions like fractures could pose a potential problem. It’s always safe to clean spinel with warm soapy water.

Treatment concerns
Some spinel might be subjected to color-altering heat treatment. The treatment is stable under normal wearing conditions. As with any transparent gemstone, spinel might be fracture-filled to improve its apparent clarity. This is rarely done to spinel, but if it is, the filler material can alter over time and affect the appearance of the stone. Any fracture-filled stone should only be cleaned with warm soapy water or a damp cloth. @chapter:27 @chapter:0 @chapter:27


# Publication Year: 2023
# Title: Seed Pearls in an Antique Indian-Style Headdress
# Abstract: Figure 1. This antique Indian-style headdress is decorated with handwoven light cream and cream-colored seed pearls. Photo by Gaurav Bera.
Identification of seed pearls often poses a challenge to gemologists. Seed pearls are typically smaller than 3 mm and can be of either saltwater or freshwater origin (The Pearl Blue Book, CIBJO, 2022). These tiny pearls have long been used for adornment on clothing, jewelry, and various decorative items.
Recently, GIA’s Mumbai laboratory examined an antique headdress (figure 1) submitted for pearl identification service. The exquisite headdress, which according to the client dates back several decades, featured intricate embroidery on a red velvet base. It incorporated approximately 7,000 light cream and cream-colored pearls, most of which displayed a strong orient. These pearls, ranging from semi-baroque to baroque in shape, were meticulously hand-woven onto the headdress using white silk thread and further secured by a surrounding framework of twisted white metal wire. The headdress itself weighed 240 g, and most of the pearls measured around 2.10 mm, with some larger ones reaching up to 3.40 mm.

Figure 2. Left: Long-wave ultraviolet reaction displaying a greenish yellow reaction and an occasional yellowish brown reaction. Right: Freshwater pearls emitting a strong yellowish green XRF reaction; some orangy red fluorescence suggesting vaterite.
Under a 10× loupe, some of the pearls displayed slight wear around the drill hole, while maintaining an overall intact nacre condition with a medium to high surface luster. The pearls embroidered on top of the headdress displayed nacreous overlapping aragonite platelets (platy structure) patterns, which are typically observed in pearls from a saltwater environment. Those on the side portion exhibited slightly broader platy patterns, which are common in freshwater pearls. Under long-wave ultraviolet radiation (figure 2, left), most of the pearl samples showed weak greenish yellow fluorescence, with a small percentage showing yellowish brown. A similar weaker reaction was observed under short-wave ultraviolet radiation (not shown).
When exposed to X-ray fluorescence, the pearls on top of the headdress were inert, indicating their saltwater origin. In contrast, the pearls on the side portion showed a strong yellowish green fluorescence due to high manganese contents, indicating a freshwater origin (figure 2, right). Interestingly, some freshwater pearls also displayed an orangy red fluorescence, suggesting the presence of vaterite, a less commonly observed form of calcium carbonate (CaCO3) compared to aragonite or calcite (Winter 2021 Lab Notes, pp. 377–378). Due to the size and delicate nature of the headdress, further analysis of chemical composition using energy-dispersive X-ray fluorescence spectrometry was not feasible.

Figure 3. Left: RTX image of pearls from the top portion of the headdress (saltwater environment). Right: RTX image of pearls from the side portion (freshwater environment).
To study the internal structures, the authors performed random sampling using real-time microradiography (RTX) imaging (figure 3). Internally, most of the saltwater pearls exhibited small organic-rich cores with fine growth arcs, while other samples displayed tight to minimal structures with a few fine growth arcs toward the outer nacre. These internal structures were similar to those observed in natural pearls from the Pinctada species. Similarly, the freshwater pearls displayed natural structures with growth arcs throughout the pearl, consistent with natural freshwater pearls from GIA’s research database (Summer 2021 Gem News International, pp. 167–171). Twisted linear structures or voids, which are commonly found in non-bead cultured Chinese freshwater pearls, were also observed in a minority of the tested samples (K. Scarratt et al., “Characteristics of nuclei in Chinese freshwater cultured pearls,” Spring 2000 G&G, pp. 98–109).
Although the identification of seed pearls has always presented challenges and limitations, advancements in equipment and instrumentation available at GIA laboratories enable the detailed analysis of even the most minute structures and features in pearls, whether natural or cultured. @chapter:53 @chapter:4 @chapter:53


# Publication Year: 2014
# Title: IMA General Meeting
# Abstract: Dr. Gaston Giuliani presented on the oxygen isotope and trace-element chemistry of corundum at the General Meeting of the IMA in Johannesburg. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA.

              The 21st General Meeting of the International Mineralogical Association (IMA) was held September 1–5 in Johannesburg, South Africa. Several oral and poster presentations were presented in a session on gem materials.

Giovanna Agnosi (University of Bari, Italy) discussed preliminary results of an X-ray diffraction topography study of Colombian trapiche emeralds, which revealed a consistent crystallinity between the arms and the hexagonal core. She presented a model of trapiche formation in which the growth of the hexagonal core occurred first, followed by the six arm sections. Ulrika D’Haenens-Johansson (GIA, New York) outlined the status of synthetic diamond production. She reviewed the means of identification based on visual observations, structure-related ultraviolet fluorescence reactions, and distinctive spectroscopic features. In concluding, she noted that synthetic diamonds can be unequivocally recognized by major gem laboratories.

Andrew Fagan (University of British Columbia, Vancouver) presented the geologic setting and a model of formation of the Fiskenæsset corundum district in southwest Greenland. Estimates of ore reserves suggest that this could become a commercial ruby deposit. Gaston Giuliani (Centre de Recherches Pétrographiques et Géochimiques, Nancy, France) studied the oxygen isotope and trace-element chemistry of sapphire xenocrysts in basalts from Changle, China, and of corundum from the Mbuyi-Mayi kimberlite in the Democratic Republic of Congo, to trace their primary sources. In both cases, the host basalt and kimberlite transported the corundum crystals from the lower crust and upper mantle.

Daniel Ichang’i (University of Nairobi) described efforts by the Kenyan government to document and better understand the geologic setting of the country’s numerous gem deposits. He discussed two main occurrence lithologies: the metamorphic rocks of the Neoproterozoic Mozambique orogenic belt, and the Paleogene-Neogene basaltic volcanics in the Northern and Central Kenya rift regions.

Stefanos Karampelas (Gübelin Gem Lab, Lucerne, Switzerland) detailed the gemological characteristics of emeralds from Itatitia in Minas Gerais, Brazil. The emeralds formed along the contact between phlogopite schists and highly evolved granitic pegmatites. Based on minor and trace-element chemistry, they can be distinguished from emeralds from other Brazilian and world deposits. Vincent Pardieu (GIA, Bangkok) gave a talk about Montepuez in northern Mozambique, which is currently the world’s largest source of rubies. He also presented a short film about GIA expeditions he has led to gem deposits in eastern Africa. Wuyi Wang (GIA, New York) presented a study of carbon isotopes of synthetic and natural diamonds. The latter displayed δ13C values from 0 to –20‰, while the former ranged from –25 to –75‰.

Christopher M. Breeding (GIA, Carlsbad, California) described the interesting features of alluvial diamonds from the Marange deposit in eastern Zimbabwe. These type Ia diamonds display surface radiation staining, aggregated nitrogen impurities, and elevated hydrogen impurity contents, but these features do not provide a reliable indicator of geographic origin. Julien Feneyrol (Centre de Recherches Pétrographiques et Géochimiques, Nancy, France) presented a model of the metamorphic formation of tsavorite nodules in primary deposits. The tsavorite nodules are always contained within graphitic gneiss and calc-silicates with intercalations of marble. Elena Sorokina (Fersman Mineralogical Museum, Moscow) described a model of ruby and sapphire formation in marbles at Snezhnoe in Tajikistan. @chapter:1 @chapter:0 @chapter:1


# Publication Year: -
# Title: The Great Potential of Diopside in the China Market
# Abstract: This 5.26 carat chrome diopside, reportedly from Tanzania, was shown to GIA at the 2015 Tucson Show. G&G had previously reported on gem-quality chrome diopside from Merelani, Tanzania. Photo by Robert Weldon, courtesy of Primagem.

                      With the increasing interest in uncommon colored gemstones, more varieties with great potential have made their way into China’s gem market. One of these uncommon varieties is chrome diopside from Russia. Its very saturated, vivid green color makes it a nice, more affordable alternative to emerald. Since its introduction as a beautiful alternative green gemstone, chrome diopside has attracted a lot of attention from Chinese consumers.

Most of the diopside on the market is in readily available commercial sizes, ranging from approximately one half to two carats. However, larger stones can be found, some over five carats. Though Russia is the primary source of gem-quality chrome diopside, deposits also exist in Pakistan, Afghanistan, Italy, Finland, Austria, Tanzania, Madagascar, Myanmar (Burma), and India.

Once mainly described as an emerald alternative, chrome diopside is increasingly being promoted as a gem in its own right. Some domestically and internationally well-known jewelry brands such as Sino Jewel and Enzo have been promoting diopside jewelry since 2013.

Sino Jewel was established in the early 1990s in Shenzhen. It now operates as a group of companies handling jewelry design, manufacturing, wholesaling, and haute couture services. In 2012, Sino Jewel was named by the China General Chamber of Commerce as “China’s No. 1 Colored Stone Jewelry Brand.” In the spring of 2015, Sino Jewel launched a jewelry series called “Crispy Green,” featuring both faceted and cabochon-cut diopside in 18K gold jewelry. The brand also now offers promotional assistance to the trade, providing guidance and display services to retail stores and diopside distributors.

View Gallery

	Diopside Jewelry by Sino Jewel and Enzo
Enzo, a retail jewelry brand under the Hong Kong based Lorenzo Group, is considered by local jewelry professionals to be the leader in colored stone jewelry promotion and trading. Enzo launched a series of 18K gold diopside jewelry at the beginning of 2015, with prices in the $500 to $1500 range. Since the prices of emerald and green tourmaline are comparatively high, diopside jewelry fills in the price gap, making it affordable for the expanding middle class.

	Faceting
Owners of gem-cutting businesses in Shenzhen and Panyu informed the authors that due to diopside’s low hardness (Mohs 5.5) and flat crystal shape, only more experienced gem cutters can handle its processing, and the weight yield is generally low. Diopside is currently one of their main working materials, with faceted stones exported mostly to Hong Kong, Thailand, and the US. They are also witnessing higher domestic demand from well-known jewelry brands. In 2013, when the authors visited the colored stone cutting factory of Hutang Gems & Jewelry Ltd. in Panyu, their main goods were diopside and peridot. The factory also manufactures jewelry mounted with these two stones.

View Gallery

	Processing Diopside in Panyu, China
Hutang was marketing their faceted diopside at the 2015 Tucson show. The company’s owner, Mr. Wu, passionately expressed confidence in the potential of diopside jewelry in China. According to him, increasing quantities of faceted stones have been ordered by domestic jewelry brands in the past two years, but the finished diopside jewelry has not yet appeared on the market. Industry professionals feel that this is because jewelers are stockpiling goods for the right moment to sell, and that time will be soon. Industry media portray diopside as the colored stone rising star in China. Some even bravely predict that this stone has the potential to experience a big price jump, similar to what happened with tourmaline in 2009.

This is one of Hutang’s large faceted stones, displayed at the 2015 Tucson Show. The 12x10 oval weighs 4.86 carats. Photo by Robert Weldon, courtesy of Hutang Gems & Jewelry Ltd

	Sourcing
Gem-quality chrome diopside is mined primarily in eastern Siberia. The so-called Inagli deposit is located in the republic of Sakha. Many Chinese stone cutters, including Mr. Wu, travel to the mines to buy diopside rough. He went to the mine in 2014 and brought pieces of rough from that location to the 2015 Tucson Gem Show. He described the harsh weather and terrain conditions in the mining area that shorten the mining season to only the summer months. This leads to limited supplies and steadily increasing prices.

	The elegant diopside necklace—manufactured by Hutang—is fashioned from gold-plated
	925 silver. The accompanying piece of rough weighs 105.9 grams. It was brought from
	Siberia, Russia, by Mr.Wu, Hutang’s president. Photo by Robert Weldon, courtesy of
	Hutang Gems and Jewelry Ltd.
Mr. Wu expressed his concern with those rising costs. Due to increasing demand from China, rough prices and Russian taxation are rapidly increasing. Chinese buyers have had to pay the tax so their stones could cross the border between the two countries. The delay and the increased cost may be a serious problem that both sides have to face in the near future.

	Summary
As consumers become more aware of chrome diopside, the gem is gradually making its way into the mainstream jewelry market in China. In addition to its attractive color and comparatively affordable price, the stories of exotic sourcing and the gem’s untreated nature are both great diopside selling points. Modern Chinese consumers are more accepting of new stones than ever before. Chrome diopside already has great potential, and it is highly possible that its niche in the rapidly developing Chinese market will grow. @chapter:21 @chapter:0 @chapter:21


# Publication Year: 1986
# Title: Green Glass Made of Mount St. Helens Ash?
# Abstract: A specimen of green glass said to be made from ash from the May 1980 eruption of Mount St. Helens in Washington State was examined and compared with a black glass made by melting a sample of the ash. The glasses are quite different in their properties, and analytical results show that the green glass contains at most 5% to 10% of Mount St. Helens ash, if any. @chapter:13 @chapter:0 @chapter:13


# Publication Year: 2023
# Title: Vibrant Green Grossular Garnet “Transvaal Jade”
# Abstract: This 110.4 g partially polished rough grossular garnet “Transvaal jade” and three polished cabochons (41.95–92.87 ct) display unusually vibrant green colors between seams of dark chromite matrix. Photo by Diego Sanchez; courtesy of TMS Gems.
At the Pueblo show, Tom Schneider of TMS Gems (San Diego, California) offered “Transvaal jade” rough displaying an exceptionally vivid green color. Also known as “African jade” or “South African jade,” this is not a true jade (jadeite or nephrite). The stone is instead a grossular garnet whose trade name is derived from its massive habit and green color, and the type locality. Specimens of this material are typically more translucent and lighter in color (J. Frankel, “Uvarovite garnet and South African jade (hydrogrossular) from the Bushveld Complex, Transvaal,” American Mineralogist, Vol. 44, No. 5-6, 1959, pp. 565–591). Nested in a fine-grained chromite matrix, the opaque green portion of the stone in the figure above had a refractive index of 1.731 and was inert to both long-wave and short-wave ultraviolet radiation.
The sample was identified as grossular garnet using Raman spectroscopy and further classified as a grossular-andradite garnet using X-ray fluorescence chemical analysis and the naming convention proposed in 1995 (M.L. Johnson et al., “Gem-quality grossular-andradite: A new garnet from Mali,” Fall 1995 G&G, pp. 152–166). The chemical data show 80.83 mol.% grossular (Ca3Al2Si3O12), 10.50 mol.% uvarovite (Ca3Cr2Si3O12), 7.11 mol.% andradite (Ca3Fe2Si3O12), and trace amounts of other garnet. Garnets in the grossular to andradite range can show 4.64–20.91 wt.% Fe2O3 (Johnson et al., 1995) and typically have low chromium values (≤0.23 wt.% Cr2O3) (C.M. Stockton and D.V. Manson, “A proposed new classification for gem-quality garnets,” Winter 1985 G&G, pp. 205–218). Increased iron content will impart a yellow, orange, or brown color component, while the most intensely green stones owe their color to chromium and possibly vanadium (Johnson et al., 1995). The low iron content (2.49 wt.% Fe2O3) and elevated chromium content (3.50 wt.% Cr2O3) of this sample likely resulted in its remarkable coloration.
The chromium-rich nature of this particular specimen produced a beautiful vibrant green with a high-polish luster, making it an outstanding example of this material. @chapter:14 @chapter:0 @chapter:14


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Inside the World of Gem and Jewelry Appraising
# Abstract: From left: Teri Brossmer, Gina D'Onofrio and Carole C. Richbourg share  a behind-the-scenes look at the appraisal profession with students at GIA's campus in Carlsbad. Photo by Kevin Schumacher/GIA

                      Students filled the lecture hall at GIA’s campus in Carlsbad recently, eager to hear about the world of gem and jewelry appraising. Classes had already ended for the day, but students were ready to learn more ‒ a trait, it turns out, that is necessary to be a successful appraiser.

“We are perpetual students. We are always learning, and we love it,” said Teri Brossmer, an independent appraiser and GIA Graduate Gemologist (GG), who kicked off a panel discussion along with two other appraisers from the American Society of Appraisers (ASA). A drive to continue your education is vital for appraisers because you regularly spend time studying new discoveries, learning about gem treatments and understanding the laws that affect your business, she said.

Brossmer got her start in gems and jewelry in 1979 when she approached a local jeweler and asked how she could make a career in the industry. He suggested she contact GIA. When Brossmer returned to the store with a course catalog the jeweler was so impressed by her initiative that he hired her on the spot. She earned her GG and ultimately received her appraising accreditation through ASA.

Brossmer said appraisers use their gemological and jewelry knowledge, combined with valuation theory – a process to determine the monetary market value – to give a credible, defendable opinion of value. She pointed out that unlike other jewelry professionals, appraisers don’t have a particular product to sell.

“We’re selling our experience, knowledge and opinion,” she said. “I get paid for my opinion – but it is a well-researched opinion.”

Appraisers don’t just get to be opinionated and curious, she told students; they need to have a variety of skills.

“Appraisers need to be multi-talented,” she said. They need to be part scientist, part computer tech, part business person, and part historian. History skills come into play when they recognize gem treatment and jewelry techniques, and spot when something is out of place.

“You’ve got to know that when you turn over the incredible ‘art nouveau’ piece and see the CAD/CAM skin on the back, you’ve got a problem,” Brossmer said. “You need to know when certain techniques were possible throughout history.”

She added that aspiring appraisers also need to be part diplomat, or as she put it, a “jewelry therapist,” since jewelry is often purchased to commemorate a significant occasion and frequently has special meaning attached to it.

She shared the story of one of her first clients, a recently engaged woman who brought in her ring to be appraised. Brossmer, unfortunately, immediately recognized the stone was not a diamond and told her client, who was shocked. “After that, I learned diplomacy very quickly,” she said.

Brossmer has expanded her expertise to include appraisals for law enforcement organizations. She branched out early in her career when an FBI agent told her about a new law that required seized property to be evaluated by independent appraisers. Brossmer evaluated hundreds of pieces of jewelry for her first case, and the FBI was happy with her work.

“Before long I was getting calls from the FBI, DEA, U.S. Customs and even the Food and Drug Administration,” she said. “As it turns out, appraising seized property is very big business.”

Brossmer said every day can be a new experience for appraisers, especially working with law enforcement. She often works in remote warehouses without heat or air-conditioning, sometimes in temperatures near freezing or above 90 degrees Fahrenheit. On several occasions she’s had to testify in criminal cases, and a few times she’s been involved with evaluating gems and jewelry immediately after a police raid.

Students listened in awe to Brossmer’s unusual experiences and thrilling cases with law enforcement, before two other appraisers joined her for a panel discussion led by student questions.

	Students listen attentively and take notes during a panel discussion on gem and jewelry appraising. Photo by Kevin Schumacher/GIA

Carole C. Richbourg, an independent appraiser from Los Altos, California, started her career in a retail jewelry store. She earned her GG diploma through distance education and started her own appraisal business in 2004, working almost exclusively with private consumers in northern California.

Gina D’Onofrio, originally from Sydney, Australia, said she “fell into the appraisal business” after a breadth of jewelry experiences – from selling opals to antique jewelry, and from retail management to jewelry design. She said once she studied gemology she was hooked. “Little did I know my experience was becoming very well-rounded and was setting me up for a good knowledge base for appraising jewelry,” she said.

Students asked the appraisers specific questions about how to increase their knowledge in antique jewelry, how to start an appraisal business, what computer software to use and their favorite gemological instruments.

Richbourg encouraged students to get retail experience, which she said is invaluable because it provides the opportunity to handle jewelry and become more familiar with the “feel” of it. This helps appraisers make an instinctual first determination on authenticity.

D’Onofrio stressed the importance of networking, and the friendships that can often lead to new professional opportunities.

All three of the appraisers said that one of the most rewarding experiences of appraising comes from the stories gems and jewelry reveal. One of Brossmer’s favorite experiences was the opportunity to document American actress Ginger Rogers’ personal jewelry collection.

“Not only did I get to see this personal glimpse into her life, but because she had been a star for such a long span of time, you could see the progression of jewelry design over the years. There were incredible pieces from the 1930s, 1940s and 1950s,” she said.

D’Onofrio admitted she is a hopeless romantic. “I love the discovery, the history, the stories behind the jewelry and the people you meet. I think it’s the best part of the industry.” @chapter:47 @chapter:2 @chapter:47