# Publication Year: -
# Title: Thai Designers Draw Inspiration from Tradition, Heritage for Jewelry Contest
# Abstract: View Gallery

Fresh. Exciting. Innovative.

	These are just a few words used to describe the nearly 300 designs submitted to the “Create Your Own Legacy” jewelry design challenge hosted by GIA in Bangkok.

	The contest, which opened mid-2013, encouraged designers of all experience levels to be inspired by the cultural legacy of Thailand. The result? A bounty of jewelry sketches inspired by native flowers, mangrove trees and other symbols of Thailand as varied as the designers who created them – from college students and jewelry enthusiasts to jewelry professionals.

	The five-month process – organized to commemorate the 20-year anniversary of GIA in Bangkok – was an opportunity for Thai designers to showcase their talent, expand their gemological knowledge and work alongside prominent jewelry companies Beauty Gems, Blue River, Fadamas, Mouawad and Sette. The finalists were also awarded prizes and scholarships for GIA design, gemology and jewelry programs. The first place designer earned a scholarship for the on-campus Graduate Gemologist program and a trip to the Hong Kong International Jewellery and Gem Show in March 2014.

	“The Bangkok community has been a gracious and hospitable host to GIA for 20 years. This contest was an opportunity to give something back to the jewelry industry here,” said Kenneth Scarratt, GIA managing director of South East Asia and director of the laboratory in Bangkok.

	Entries were reviewed by a panel of judges that included industry experts and respected members of the community. The group selected 21 designers to advance to the next step of the contest: an intensive gemological workshop at the Bangkok campus specifically created to further develop the participants’ knowledge of diamonds and gemstones, as well as to strengthen their design capabilities.

	Participants at the three-day gemological workshop at the GIA campus in Bangkok show their design sketches. Photos by GIA

	Finalist Songsak Sirimartpornchai of Bangkok, a jewelry designer with more than 18 years of experience, said the workshop helped him learn more about the types of gems to select for his jewelry pieces. “I will use the knowledge I learned in this class for future designs as well,” he said.

	Once they completed the workshop, the designers were asked to either develop their original work further or submit a new sketch for the next round of judging, taking care to incorporate colored gemstones in their designs.

	Another finalist, Sutattar Chanrungrojne, from Ayutthaya, Thailand, designed a necklace, cuff and earring set inspired by a practical baking tool.

	“People often find inspiration from beautiful objects, but I wanted to think differently,” she said. “Banana leaves, which don’t always look appealing, are very useful in the traditional Thai way of life. They are often used for baking food and desserts instead of tinfoil or parchment papers.”

	Sutattar Chanrungrojne was inspired by banana leaves when she designed “Baitong,” a necklace, cuff bracelet and earring set. Contestants worked with jewelry companies to manufacture their designs (left) into tangible jewelry pieces.

	Her sketch, which features vibrant green gems, was chosen as one of the top five designs.

	The five finalists had the opportunity to work directly with jewelry companies to manufacture their designs into finished pieces that were then reviewed by the judging panel. The winner’s designs were announced at a presentation ceremony at the Bangkok Art and Culture Center in late 2013.

	The first place winner, Nattawat Srinoon, of Nakhon sri thammarat, Thailand, designed pieces inspired by traditional Thai textiles. His jewelry, titled “You Clothe Me,” represents the history and legacy of Thai culture. A student majoring in jewelry design at Silpakorn University, he plans to further his studies in fashion design after completing the Graduate Gemologist diploma.

	First place winner Nattawat Srinoon designed “You Clothe Me,” a suite of jewelry pieces inspired by traditional Thai clothing.

	“I believe that jewelry and fashion are inseparable,” he said.

	He said it is rare to find jewelry contests specifically targeted to Thai designers, especially ones supported by leading jewelry companies. “I learned a lot from the intensive gemological workshop, and also gained more experience in manufacturing by working with the jewelry companies.”

	But it wasn’t only the contestants who benefitted from the event.

	“Contestants had the opportunity to have their designs reviewed by industry professionals and design experts and each contestant gained experience to move forward in their gem and jewelry career,” GIA’s Scarratt said. “But the participating jewelry companies also had a great opportunity to work with new talent and be inspired by the creative designs.” @chapter:25 @chapter:2 @chapter:25


# Publication Year: 1985
# Title: Spring 1985 G&G Lab Notes
# Abstract: Heat Treated Amethyst
Garnet Almandite, Exhibiting both Chatoyancy and Asterism
Massive Grossularite Garnet Carving
Damaged Mabe Pearls
Pearl Simulants, Shell Hinges
Multi-Star Quartz
Ruby with Unusual Inclusions
Sapphire Simulant, Synthetic Green Spinel and Synthetic Blue Sapphire Doublet
Turquoise Simulant, Dyed Magnesite

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:18 @chapter:1 @chapter:18


# Publication Year: 2023
# Title: A Traditional Bombay Pearl Bunch
# Abstract: Figure 1. A Bombay bunch consisting of nine hanks and 553 high-quality natural pearls ranging from 3.83 to 5.72 mm. Photo by Gaurav Bera.
During the era when the maharajahs and maharanis ruled much of India, natural pearls were in great demand. In the nineteenth and early twentieth centuries, many merchants from the Middle East relocated to Bombay (now Mumbai) to benefit from this demand (R. Carter, Sea of Pearls, Arabian Publishing, London, 2012, pp. 169–175). Thus, it is no surprise that India has been a significant center of pearl manufacturing, processing, and trading for centuries. To showcase their high-quality pearls, traders and artisans in Bombay would sort the pearls, string them with silk threads, and tie them together at both ends using decorative metallic cords of various colors. These bunches were in great demand in the heyday of the natural pearl market and were sold as “Bombay bunches” (M. Manutchehr-Danai, Dictionary of Gems and Gemology, Springer, Berlin and Heidelberg, 2008, p. 101).
Recently, GIA’s Mumbai laboratory had the opportunity to examine an 80-year-old Bombay bunch inherited by one of the city’s established pearl families. The bunch consisted of 553 light cream round and near-round drilled pearls, strung in nine hanks, each containing four strands, with the exception of one hank with seven strands. The hanks were tied at both ends with white metal wires, together with silver and blue cords and tassels (figure 1). The pearls ranged from 3.83 to 5.72 mm, and the total weight of the bunch was approximately 80.51 g. The owner stated that the total weight of the pearls was approximately 130 chow (equivalent to 331.8 ct or 66.35 g). Chow is a system of converting weight into volume (The Pearl Blue Book, CIBJO, 2020).

Figure 2. Real-time microradiography images of eight pearls from the Bombay bunch revealing fine growth arcs and concentric ringed structures typical of those internal structures observed in Pinctada radiata pearls.
The strung pearls were perfectly matched in color and exhibited smooth surfaces with high luster. When viewed under 40× magnification, they all exhibited typical nacreous overlapping aragonite platelets. Their internal structures were examined by real-time microradiography. The majority revealed fine growth arcs and concentric ringed structures, while others revealed tight or minimal structures, some with small faint cores or light organic-rich cores (figure 2). It was evident that these were natural pearls from Pinctada-species mollusks, as their internal structures were very similar to those observed in Pinctada radiata pearls from the Arabian (Persian) Gulf when compared to GIA’s research database.
All pearls showed an inert reaction when exposed to optical X-ray fluorescence analysis. Energy-dispersive X-ray fluorescence spectrometry on a few samples revealed manganese values ranging from below detection limits to 30.7 ppm and strontium values of 1215 to 1989 ppm, consistent with a saltwater growth environment. Raman analysis using 514 nm excitation was also carried out on the surface of selected pearls showing a doublet at 702/705 cm–1 as well as a peak at 1085 cm–1, indicative of aragonite. Very weak polyenic pigment-related peaks at 1130 and 1530 cm–1 were also observed in a few of the pearls, likely associated with their light cream coloration (A. Al-Alawi et al., “Saltwater cultured pearls from Pinctada radiata in Abu Dhabi (United Arab Emirates),” Journal of Gemmology, Vol. 37, No. 2, 2020, pp. 164–179). The photoluminescence spectra under 514 nm excitation were also consistent with the Raman results and displayed high fluorescence together with the aragonite peaks, typical of most nacreous pearls. When exposed to long-wave ultraviolet light, the pearls showed a moderate blue reaction.
Historically, Bombay bunches were known to contain high-quality Pinctada radiata pearls fished from the Arabian (Persian) Gulf, commonly referred to as “Basra pearls” in the trade. Records indicate that the proportion of round pearls found in each natural pearl harvest today is less than 5% (H. Bari and D. Lam, Pearls, Skira, Milan, 2010, p. 43). Natural pearls are rare to find, and it can take decades to match a round pair of similar size, color, and luster. Encountering Bombay bunches in today’s market is a rarity, and it was a great opportunity for GIA Mumbai to examine such an interesting and memorable pearl submission. @chapter:53 @chapter:4 @chapter:53


# Publication Year: 2024
# Title: CVD with “Ancient Text” Clouds
# Abstract: Figure 1. The pavilion of this 1.67 ct pear-shaped CVD-grown diamond displayed an interesting feature with numerous cloud features resembling lines of text. Photomicrograph by Raju Jain; field of view ~2 mm.
The Surat lab received a 1.67 ct D-color pear shape submitted for laboratory-grown diamond service. Spectroscopy and fluorescence imaging confirmed this was a diamond grown by chemical vapor deposition (CVD) that had undergone post-growth high-pressure, high-temperature (HPHT) annealing. This CVD diamond with SI1 clarity displayed an interesting cloud feature that resembled lines of text in an ancient manuscript (figure 1).

Figure 2. A DiamondView image of the pavilion shows the region containing the cloud characteristic. While this image reveals the growth interfaces and the coloration confirms HPHT annealing, it does not show features corresponding to the cloud. Image by Suvarna Gaikwad.
The “lines” of clouds—a feature never before seen by the authors—were oriented approximately 45° to the growth interface seen with DiamondView imaging (figure 2). Examination of the fluorescence images (including those collected with selective-wavelength filters) revealed that the cloud features did not coincide with dislocation bundles, and striations were not observed. Photoluminescence mapping with 532 nm excitation showed high concentrations of the silicon vacancy (SiV–) defect at 737 nm but did not indicate any spatial features corresponding to the clouds. Infrared absorption spectroscopy indicated a type IIb diamond with very low concentrations of uncompensated boron.
This diamond was noteworthy for its unusual and visually appealing clarity characteristic. Additionally, the dichotomy of a thoroughly modern diamond with a cloud feature that evoked an ancient text provided an interesting submission. @chapter:36 @chapter:1 @chapter:36


# Publication Year: 2022
# Title: Apatite Oiling: Before and After
# Abstract: Figure 1. Left: On the base of this apatite cabochon (15 × 15 × 13 mm), a large, reflective fissure can be observed with fiber-optic illumination. Right: After the oil filling, the same fissure is much less noticeable and the iridescent reflective area is considerably smaller, enhancing the sample’s clarity. Photos by E. Billie Hughes.
Fissure filling of gemstones is an age-old treatment that can improve a stone’s clarity (Fall 2020 Gem News International, pp. 443–444). By introducing oil or other fillers such as resin into the stone, the treater can minimize the appearance of fissures.
Recently we had the opportunity to observe this treatment up close in an apatite cabochon brought to our laboratory for photography while it was still untreated. Then the sample was oiled by Jeffery Bergman and returned to the laboratory for observation and photography.
Upon examination before and after, the effects of the treatment were clear. On the base of the cabochon, a large, reflective fissure became less visible after oiling (figure 1). Using fiber-optic illumination, it was apparent that the filler had diminished the reflective appearance of the fissure, with only small highly reflective areas remaining (figure 2). Darkfield illumination also revealed a stark difference in appearance: The filler had rendered large dark areas filled with air nearly invisible (figure 3).

Figure 2. A close-up of the fissure before and after oil treatment, shown in diffuse fiber-optic illumination. Left: Before oiling, the fissure is easily visible and highly reflective. Right: After oiling, the reflection is more muted and less noticeable, with only a small highly reflective area remaining. Photomicrographs by E. Billie Hughes; field of view 10 mm.

Figure 3. Left: Before filling, transmitted light shows dark areas where air has become trapped in the fissure, making it more visible. Right: Treatment with oil minimizes the dark areas, enhancing clarity. Photomicrographs by E. Billie Hughes; field of view 27 mm.
This microscopic observation serves as a reminder of the significant impact clarity enhancement can have on gems of all types. @chapter:18 @chapter:0 @chapter:18


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Internet Jewelry Pioneer Creates ‘Gems of Madagascar’ to Improve Lives of Children
# Abstract: Michelle Rahm, GG, founded "Gems of Madagascar" in 2015 to help provide clean water projects and other basic needs for the nation’s children. Here, she is pictured with three girls from the village of Mananjara, whom the organization sent to school because their families could not afford to. “They were so happy and doing well in their studies, and their dispositions had changed so much,” she says. “It’s amazing how much something like sending the girls to school changed their overall well-being.” Courtesy of Michelle Rahm

	Michelle Rahm is many things: an accomplished business owner, a seasoned gemologist, an Internet jewelry sales pioneer and an award-winning leader in the GIA Alumni Association.

	But when Rahm visited Madagascar in 2014 to learn about its mineralogy and tour mining localities, she didn’t expect to also become an advocate for the nation’s children. “I never imagined that a business trip to Madagascar would change my life,” she says.

	Rahm’s business began when she decided “on a whim” to put a few pieces of costume jewelry for sale online in 1997. “It was an experiment to earn a little extra money for Christmas while my other start-up business was in the works,” says the Colorado resident. “But the jewelry sold so well right away, I never went back to the other business.”

	She tried wholesaling items like hot cocoa and coffee, but jewelry and watches always performed best, so she zeroed in and founded JewelryImpressions.com.

Michelle Rahm, president of the GIA Alumni Association’s Mile-High Chapter, used her expertise as a pioneer in online jewelry sales to help her alma mater develop an e-commerce curriculum. Courtesy of Michelle Rahm

	As Rahm found success in online jewelry sales, though, so did others.

	“The Internet was becoming more accepted as a means of commerce, and I wanted an edge over my competition by having real credentials in the trade,” she says. When Rahm found herself at the Jewelers 24 Karat Club golf tournament with Douglas Hucker, CEO of the American Gem Trade Association, she asked his opinion on whether she should pursue her Graduate Gemologist diploma.

	“He strongly encouraged me to do so,” says Rahm, a graduate of the University of Wisconsin - Platteville. “Within six months I signed up for classes, and had finished the program a year later.”

	Rahm soon noticed the effects of a GIA education on her business: as her knowledge increased, her sales evolved from costume jewelry to fine jewelry and loose stones – and she was able to communicate with customers in an entirely new way.

	“My GIA education allowed me to speak intelligently about gems and diamonds to my clients,” she says. “There is a trust factor there that consumers don’t find with other retailers who do not have their GG. I feel like my diploma helps me stand out in the sea of jewelry retailers, especially those selling on the Internet. When I have the opportunity to speak to customers, they realize that I have the education to back what I say.”

	Rahm continued to engage with customers, seizing an opportunity in 2009 when she recognized that many of them were buying loose stones to be set in engagement rings. She created OurCustomWeddingRings.com, which sells engagement rings set with colored stones.

Michelle Rahm’s June 2014 trip to Madagascar’s mining localities was inspirational for its continuing education opportunities and connection to her GIA studies. “The most exciting destination for me was the Ilakaka alluvial sapphire deposit (pictured here), because I saw a video about it in my GIA coursework,” she says. Photo by Jaroslav Hrysl/Courtesy of Michelle Rahm

	She also threw herself into involvement with the GIA Alumni Association – she’s president of the Denver, Colorado-area Mile-High chapter – and into continuing education classes and workshops. It was her quest for ever-expanding knowledge that led Rahm to that life-changing trip to Madagascar, where she was thrilled to visit sites like the Ilakaka alluvial sapphire deposit she studied in her GIA coursework.

	What impacted her the most, though, was a surprise. “It wasn’t the sparkling gems that caught my eye,” she says. “It was the children.”

	Rahm felt an instant bond with the “beautiful” children she met with such “rich spirits,” but was overwhelmed by their lack of access to clean water, nutritious food and other fundamental necessities for survival. She returned to the United States with a resolve to learn about clean water projects and other basic needs of the Malagasy people.

	The real “gems” of that nation, she says, are its children. She joined forces with partners in Madagascar and Colorado and founded GemsofMadagascar.org, a non-governmental organization with a “holistic approach” to humanitarian work. The nonprofit, which was officially created in 2015, will offer first aid and hygiene training, develop community gardens and clean water systems, and construct buildings, among other needs that will give local children a better chance of a bright future. The first two projects will launch this summer: a clean-water system that will supply eight villages, and a church and community building for another village. There are plans for more clean-water systems in the next year.

	Rahm has traveled back to Madagascar several times in the last couple of years. In addition to her work with her own business and as a leader in the Alumni Association, Rahm is thrilled at the many opportunities and paths that have developed from a “whim” of a decision to sell some costume jewelry online.

	“I absolutely love my career,” she says. @chapter:47 @chapter:3 @chapter:47


# Publication Year: 2024
# Title: Guatemalan Jadeite Jade: Rough and Finished
# Abstract: Figure 1. The rough Guatemalan jadeite jade sold by Yax Tun Minerals included blue, green, and lavender hues, with blue being the most prevalent. Photo by Tao Hsu; courtesy of Yax Tun Minerals.
Jadeite jade is one of the most important aggregate gems in today’s global marketplace, with known sources in Myanmar, Japan, Russia, and Guatemala. Among them, Myanmar is the most legendary and still dominates today’s market. Guatemala, however, has recently reclaimed its status as an important jadeite jade producer (see Z. Huang et al., “‘Ice jade’ from Guatemala,” pp. 26–41 of this issue).
At this year’s 22nd Street show, Yax Tun Minerals (Denver, Colorado) offered a wide range of Guatemalan jadeite jade, including rough pieces in blue, green, and lavender (figure 1). According to owner Luke Miller, the bluish color is the most common and the most desired in the American market. All rough is covered with a “skin” resulting from weathering.

Figure 2. The bluish jadeite jade from Guatemala showed high transparency and a very fine texture (left). Some displayed green veins throughout. A flashlight revealed a slight green tint in some pieces with high transparency and fine texture (right). Photos by Tao Hsu; courtesy of Yax Tun Minerals.
The seller provided a strong flashlight for buyers to assess the quality of the rough, similar to what buyers do at the major jadeite auction in Myanmar. The blue color was quite saturated, while the green and lavender colors were not. The bluish rough showed high transparency and some had green veins running through it (figure 2, left). The green veins also exhibited high transparency (figure 2, right). The lavender rough pieces were of low transparency and had a coarser texture than the other two color varieties (figure 1).
The blue color is characteristic of Guatemalan jadeite jade, which is often called “Olmec blue” in the trade. The Olmec civilization was a Mesoamerican culture revealed by archaeological artifacts. The blue to green-blue jadeite jade mined in Guatemala was prized by the Olmecs from about 1500 to 400 BCE. Mesoamerican cultures that followed, such as Mayan, Zapotec, and Totonac, continued the reverence for jadeite jade. But when the Spanish conquered Mesoamerica in the sixteenth century, their appetite for gold and emeralds contributed to the fall of Guatemalan jadeite jade popularity. Mayan guards kept the jade mine locations secret, and they were not rediscovered until 1974. Since then, Guatemala has been gradually regaining recognition as an important source of jadeite jade.
Finished products offered at the Yax Tun booth included beads, beaded necklaces, bracelets, earrings, and small pendants, polished or carved. Many of the top-quality materials are processed at Miller’s carving studio in Mexico.

Figure 3. This spectacular “Rainbow Luna” dagger features a blade of beautiful Guatemalan jadeite jade that shows the characteristic Olmec blue color and even deeper purplish blue close to the point. Courtesy of Georg Schmerholz.
As Guatemalan jadeite jade gains popularity among both Western and Asian consumers, more gem artists are using this material to show their creativity. World-renowned sculptor Georg Schmerholz brought an outstanding collection of jade to the Tucson Gem and Mineral Show. His latest creation, “Rainbow Luna,” is second in the “Resplendent Quetzal” series, which honors a beautiful bird native to Guatemala. Completed in June 2023, the 14-inch dagger is carved from the finest Guatemalan jadeite jade with a patinated bronze handle (figure 3). Schmerholz’s jade art bridges the two disciplines of sculpture and gemstone carving.
The wide range of appearance and quality of Guatemalan jadeite jade offers versatility to designers, artists, and consumers. Sufficient production and distribution are essential for this gem material to reach a wider audience. @chapter:46 @chapter:4 @chapter:46


# Publication Year: 2015
# Title: Cleavage System in Pink Diamond
# Abstract: Figure 1. This Fancy Intense purplish pink 0.29 ct diamond was host to a complex cleavage network. Photo by Robison McMurtry.

	A 0.29 ct natural Fancy Intense purplish pink diamond with a microscopically interesting geometric feature (figure 1) was recently examined at GIA’s Carlsbad laboratory. A network of planar cracks, oriented in three octahedral directions, was observed at the surface of a pavilion facet (figure 2). These linear cleavage cracks were caused by localized strain on an octahedral plane.

Figure 2. Three directions of cleavage along octahedral planes are seen in this pink diamond. Photomicrograph by Jonathan Muyal; field of view 1.22 mm.

	The octahedral plane in diamond has the weakest atomic bonding, which means that when a diamond is strained, this is the direction that will be most affected. This stone offers the perfect example of strain products in pink diamond. The purplish pink color results from plastic deformation along octahedral planes. Also present along the octahedral plane is a zone where the strain was so great that it was relieved by cracking, creating the cleavage network seen in figures 2 and 3.

Figure 3. Between crossed polars the diamond shows high-order interference colors consistent with the strain causing the cleavage network along the octahedral planes. Photomicrograph by Jonathan Muyal; field of view 0.62 mm.

	The cleavage network in this diamond is the most aesthetic one encountered by the author to date due to its finely textured geometric pattern. Interestingly, the clue to the planar cleavage network lies in the bodycolor of the stone, which indicates significant strain. This high-order strain is easily revealed between crossed polars. If a cleavage network is present in a diamond such as this, it may have a strain-induced bodycolor as well. @chapter:36 @chapter:1 @chapter:36


# Publication Year: 2020
# Title: Solid Carved Dark Gray Diamond Ring
# Abstract: Figure 1. This carved Fancy Dark gray diamond ring weighs 13.15 ct. The whitish areas are clear viewing windows. Photo by Jianxin (Jae) Liao.

A ring made entirely of natural diamond (figure 1) was recently submitted to GIA’s New York laboratory. A large rough weighing approximately 196 ct was used to create this unusual 13.15 ct carved piece. It is common to find solid carved rings of jade and wood, which were traditionally worn as symbols of status or wedding rings signifying eternity. This is the first example of a solid diamond ring submitted to GIA for identification.

Figure 2. Needle clusters in the carved Fancy Dark gray diamond ring. Photomicrograph by Stephanie Persaud.
This solid type IaB diamond ring owes its Fancy Dark gray color to the graphite needles (figure 2) trapped during formation deep below the earth’s surface. Like famous gem-quality black diamonds such as the Black Orlov, the Korloff Noir, the Black Star of Africa, and the Spirit of de Grisogono, this diamond has clear spaces creating viewing windows that capture a snapshot of the ring’s formation history. The ring was fashioned from the Beaufort diamond from Canada’s Northwest territories and named the “Beaufort Ring.”

Figure 3. Fluorescence imaging using the DiamondView shows bundled dislocation networks. Image by Stephanie Persaud.
This diamond rough from which the ring was carved likely formed billions of years ago under high pressure. During regional metamorphism, H3 and NiN complexes were formed within the crystal lattice (K. Smit et al., “Black diamonds from Marange (Zimbabwe): A result of natural irradiation and graphite inclusions,” Summer 2018 G&G, pp. 132–148). These impurities were detected by photoluminescence spectroscopy. Infrared spectroscopy was used to detect the B aggregates and hydrogen complexes within the diamond lattice, categorizing this diamond as type IaB. Fluorescence imaging of the ring using the DiamondView showed bundled dislocation networks indicative of natural diamond growth (figure 3). While this diamond ring may not be a traditional piece, it carries many unique aspects capturing a snapshot of Earth’s history within a true infinity band. @chapter:41 @chapter:1 @chapter:41


# Publication Year: 2023
# Title: Trapiche Garnet from Vietnam
# Abstract: Figure 1. The color zoning in this 3.57 ct almandine garnet creates a cross structure that forms three-arm (top of A) and four-arm trapiche patterns (B) at every intersecting point of the crystal. These color zones are arranged along the edges of the dodecahedron (C). Photos by Le Ngoc Nang.
The garnet group contains the most gem-quality species for jewelry manufacturing. Phenomenal garnets such as almandine and pyrope species are also known for their four- and six-rayed asterism. Nevertheless, the trapiche structure found in emerald, ruby, sapphire, tourmaline, and quartz is extremely rare in garnet. This structure can be considered an immobile star phenomenon. Inclusions and color zoning are responsible for the formation of two-, four-, or six-arm trapiche patterns.
Recently, the authors received a garnet sample originating from Thac Ba Lake in the Yen Bai province of Vietnam, obtained by a local miner. The 3.57 ct polished gem was pinkish white and reddish brown, translucent to opaque, and measured 7.11 × 6.90 × 6.40 mm. The diamond-shaped pinkish white portions were surrounded by reddish brown color zones, creating three-arm and four-arm trapiche patterns (see the video below).
Gemological testing revealed the sample’s specific gravity of 4.16 and refractive index of 1.78. The stone displayed absorption spectra with distinct bands at 504, 520, and 573 nm, and it was inert under ultraviolet light for both long-wave and short-wave. All the data confirmed the almandine garnet species.

Figure 2. This 3.57 ct garnet emits vivid red through the trapiche patterns when shining a flashlight through the gem. Photo by Le Ngoc Nang.
Observing all sides of the stone, we identified 14 trapiche patterns, including 6 four-arm and 8 three-arm patterns, surrounding 12 diagonal faces (figure 1). The arms grew outward from the center of the four-arm trapiches and inward for the three-arm trapiches. While the reddish brown portions extended along the edges of the garnet crystal, the diagonal lines formed the faces of the rhombic dodecahedron crystal, a typical crystal habit of almandine originating from metamorphic rock. Interestingly, when illuminated with a flashlight, the trapiche patterns glowed a fascinating vivid red and outlined the diamond-shaped portions in sharp contrast (figure 2).
Using the gemological microscope, we found that the reddish brown color zones were not colored by inclusions. In contrast, we hypothesized that the reddish hue might be induced by the dispersion of metal ions—in this case, iron (E. Fritsch and G.R. Rossman, “An update on color in gems. Part 1: Introduction and colors caused by dispersed metal ions,” Fall 1987 G&G, pp. 126–139). The position of the color zoning along the edges of the crystal might be explained by the concentration of coloration elements in the crystal’s symmetrical planes. The reddish brown zones had higher transparency than the crystal planes, producing a “glowing net” when shining a light through the stone.
Although the trapiche pattern has been observed in several gems, it is rarely seen in garnet. The 14 trapiche patterns together in one specimen make this garnet unique.

	Trapiche Patterns in Vietnamese Garnet @chapter:3 @chapter:0 @chapter:3


# Publication Year: 1987
# Title: The Seven Types of Yellow Sapphire and Their Stability to Light
# Abstract: Colorless to yellow to intense orange sapphire will react quite differently to light or heat depending on the nature of the material and the origin of the color. The authors determined that there are actually seven types of "yellow" sapphire on the market today, which differ in the cause of color and the stability of the color to light: type 1—natural, light-stable color center; type 2—natural or irradiation-produced, fading color center; type 3—iron containing, not heated, light stable; type 4—iron containing, heated, light stable; type 5—surface-diffused additive, light stable; type 6—synthetic, light stable; and type 7—synthetic irradiated, fading. The authors examined more than 150 samples of yellow sapphire to confirm the seven types and document their different reactions to light, heat, and/or irradiation. One unexpected finding was that type 1 material can fade on heating even below 200°C, but that the color is restored by exposure to light. @chapter:19 @chapter:1 @chapter:19


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Summer 2012 G&G Lab Notes
# Abstract: Large Artificially Irradiated Yellow Diamond
Multi-Treated Yellowish Green Diamond
Natural Green Diamond Artificially Irradiated for Color Enhancement
Pink Diamonds with 478 nm Peak
Rough Diamonds with a Green Coating
Jewelry Mounted with Red Feldspar from China
Hibonite Crystal
Unusual Green Color in a Jadeite Bangle
Greenish Blue Imitation Opal
Cultured Freshwater Pearl Necklace Resembling Natural Saltwater Pearls
Large Freshwater Cultured Blister Pearl
Luminescent Strontium-Calcium Aluminate Doped with Rare-Earth Elements
Near-Colorless HPHT-Grown Synthetic Diamonds from Advanced Optical Technology Co.

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:43 @chapter:1 @chapter:43


# Publication Year: 2020
# Title: Snowflake Inclusions in Mong Hsu Ruby
# Abstract: This partially healed fissure with a snowflake-like pattern is seen in a flux-heated Mong Hsu ruby. Photomicrograph by Nattida Ng-Pooresatien; field of view 1.3 mm.

The two main sources of Burmese ruby today are Mogok and Mong Hsu. Mogok is the traditional source of gem-quality ruby. The rubies from Mong Hsu are generally not as high in quality as those from Mogok, and typically show distinctive zoning with dark violet cores, a cloudy appearance, and multiple fractures. As a result, most stones from this deposit are heat treated at moderate temperatures using flux to repair fractures, improve clarity, and remove any unwanted blue color. Unheated Mong Hsu rubies are generally considered quite rare.
The author recently examined a 0.79 ct sugarloaf cabochon of pigeon’s blood ruby. Chemical analysis and gemological observation of internal features indicated that the origin of this stone was the Mong Hsu. Interestingly, microscopic examination with a combination of darkfield and oblique fiber-optic illumination revealed an open fissure with a snowflake-like pattern of flux residue (see above). The pattern is formed by the crystallization or devitrification of the glassy flux residue.
The snowflake is a symbol of the winter season and a traditional image associated with the Christmas holiday. This partially healed fissure resembling snowflakes is the first such feature the author has encountered in flux-heated ruby. @chapter:5 @chapter:0 @chapter:5


# Publication Year: -
# Title: New and Notable Finds from the GIA Lab: Winter 2023
# Abstract: These new finds from the GIA lab include unusual colors and patterns in natural and laboratory-grown diamonds.

This 2.20 ct Fancy Deep brownish orange treated HPHT-grown diamond owes its distinctive appearance to multiple defect concentrations created within the various growth sectors. Photo by Diego Sanchez.
HPHT Diamond with Unique Color Zoning
The GIA laboratory in Carlsbad recently encountered a 2.20 carat laboratory-grown diamond that received a color grade of Fancy Deep brownish orange. This diamond was grown via the high-pressure, high-temperature (HPHT) method and received subsequent HPHT treatment. These treatment processes created crystal lattice defects that resulted in the interesting coloration of the stone as well as a dramatic pink square positioned just under the table facet. Learn what color the pink square changes into when viewed through the pavilion.

This 0.63 ct tapered baguette-cut diamond showed two major color zones. Photo by Adriana Robinson.
Natural Bicolor Diamond
This unusual 0.63 carat diamond exhibits two distinct color zones, one that was graded Fancy Dark orangy brown and one that was graded Fancy Dark brown greenish yellow by GIA. Bicolor diamonds are incredibly rare and are typically caused by a combination of different crystal lattice defects. What makes this diamond even rarer is that its brown greenish yellow color zone displays chameleon properties, meaning it temporarily changes color upon heating or when left in darkness for an extended period of time. Discover what geologic conditions created this one-of-a-kind diamond.

This 1.03 ct natural Fancy Dark brown diamond has uneven color zoning and abundant black inclusions. Photo by Mei Yan Lai.
Brown Diamond Containing Carbon Dioxide
The Carlsbad laboratory recently examined a 1.03 carat natural Fancy Dark brown diamond with uneven color zoning and numerous black hexagonal inclusions. Upon analysis, the diamond was determined to contain submicroscopic solid inclusions of carbon dioxide. This brown diamond containing carbon dioxide is one of the few of its kind that GIA has encountered. Explore what was trapped inside these carbon dioxide inclusions. @chapter:39 @chapter:1 @chapter:39


# Publication Year: 2007
# Title: Summer 2007 G&G Lab Notes
# Abstract: Diamond with Bimineralic Inclusions
HPHT-Treated Type Ia Diamond with a Green Component Caused by the H2 Defect
Diamond with Intense “Rainbow Graining”
Natural Color Hydrogen-Rich Blue-Gray Diamond
Type IIa Diamond with Intense Green Color Introduced by Ni-Related Defects
Diamond with Zigzag Cleavage
HPHT-Grown Synthetic Diamond Crystal with Unusual Morphology and Negative Trigons
Idocrase in Jadeite: A Heavenly Home
Opal with Unusual Structure

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:22 @chapter:1 @chapter:22


# Publication Year: -
# Title: GIA Field Gemology Team Explores Sapphire Mines at Ilakaka, Madagascar
# Abstract: Exploring Madagascar’s Sapphire Mines

	Tour Ilakaka’s sapphire mining areas with GIA field gemologists.

	In this short video you will accompany GIA Field Gemologist Vincent Pardieu and his team as they introduce you to Madagascar’s Ilakaka sapphire mining area. Located in the south of the island of Madagascar, the Ilakaka area is one of the world’s largest sapphire deposits, and currently one of the most active. Potential sapphire deposits cover an area of about 75x62 miles (120x100 km).

	“Madagascar has huge potential as a sapphire producing country,” says Pardieu. “GIA will keep visiting the island to study and document all its deposits.” According to Pardieu, the institute has already compiled the most accurate map of the island’s sapphire workings yet published.

	Discovered at the end of 1998, the area around Ilakaka produces many other gems besides corundum, including chrysoberyl, spinel, garnet, tourmaline, and zircon.

	Miners seek sapphire-rich layers concentrated in former river beds that geologists call paleochannels. Using hand tools, they dig simple pits to reach the gems, which they wash in nearby rivers. The pits are often less than a meter in diameter to minimize the risks of collapse. Some pits go as deep as 197 feet (60 meters). “Finding gem-rich gravel is the only thing that matters for the miners,” says Pardieu.

	In this video, you’ll follow him down one such pit—about 118 feet (36 meters) deep—so he can see the conditions under which the miners work with his own eyes. “It is hard work to say the least,” reflects Pardieu.

	You’ll see unparalleled aerial footage of the mining area as GIA’s drone skims over the miners’ heads. You’ll also be treated to a unique aerial view of Ilakaka itself.

	A big goal of the trip is the gathering of samples for GIA’s reference collection, and that requires gaining the confidence of local miners. “Once people know what you’re here for, the stones start to appear,” explains Pardieu. It’s also good if you can stay in the area for a while, he says. “Time is our best ally in all these kinds of expeditions,” continues Pardieu. “The longer you stay, the more chance you have of seeing something interesting.”

	This video was compiled from two separate Madagascar expeditions—FE39 and FE55—that took place in 2012 and 2014 respectively. Besides Vincent Pardieu and cameraman Didier Gruel, expedition participants included Boris Chauviré, Jonathan Muyal, and Stanislas Detroyat. @chapter:51 @chapter:0 @chapter:51


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Summer 2016 G&G: Diamonds from Diavik, Responsible Sourcing, and Fabergé Cossack Figures
# Abstract: The lead article in this issue examines the discovery and geology of the Diavik diamond mine, as well as the nature
of the operations at this remote site in Canada’s Northwest Territories, just 220 km south of the Arctic Circle.
The aerial photo on the cover, taken in the summer of 2014, captures Diavik’s isolation and the extent of its operations.
Photo by Dave Brosha, courtesy of Diavik Diamond Mine.

	Diamonds and colored stones, carving and mining, historical treasures and the future of the industry are all featured in the latest Gems & Gemology. The Summer 2016 issue leads with the Diavik diamond mine in Canada’s Northwest Territories. Other articles examine Fabergé figures depicting Russian imperial bodyguards, efforts to bring a sustainable and ethical supply chain to the colored stone industry, the carving of a large opal rough into a museum-quality piece, and the bygone adventures of mine engineer Peter Rainier at the Colombian emerald mecca of Chivor.

	MINING DIAMONDS IN THE CANADIAN ARCTIC: THE DIAVIK MINE

The 187.7 ct “Diavik Foxfire,” discovered in spring 2015, is the largest gem-quality rough diamond found to date at the mine. Photo courtesy of Rio Tinto Diamonds.

	Canada’s remote Diavik mine is one of the world’s preeminent sources of gem diamonds, producing over 100 million carats since 2003. In the lead article, Dr. James Shigley and his team review the discovery, development, and operation of the mine, which is expected to produce through 2024, when the land will be restored through reclamation and remediation efforts. The article is accompanied by exclusive videos captured at Diavik.

	FABERGÉ COSSACK FIGURES CREATED FROM RUSSIAN GEMSTONES

	The Fabergé hardstone figure of Chamber Cossacks A.A. Kudinov, who guarded
	Empress Maria Feodorovna from 1878 to 1915. Photo courtesy of Pavlovsk State Museum
	and Gafifullin (2014).

	Between 1908 and 1916, the Fabergé workshops created approximately 50 hardstone figures representing the Russian people, using Russian gems and precious metals. Timothy Adams and Christel Ludewig McCanless examine two hardstone figures, commissioned by Nicholas II, of Cossack bodyguards who served the Romanov empresses.

	THE COLOR OF RESPONSIBILITY: ETHICAL ISSUES AND SOLUTIONS IN COLORED GEMSTONES

	The mining and processing of colored stones, a multibillion-dollar industry, still lacks an ethical and sustainable mine-to-market supply chain. Jennifer-Lynn Archuleta reports on the inherent challenges and the ongoing efforts  to bring traceability, transparency, and sustainability to the world of colored stones.

	THE CHALLENGES OF CUTTING A LARGE GEM OPAL ROUGH

A side view of the Australian opal rough shows all the color bars and intervening layers of colorless potch. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA.

	Theodore Grussing explains how he planned and cut a 3,019 ct piece of Australian white opal rough into the Molly Stone, a 1,040 ct museum quality piece with play-of-color across the entire surface. This article describes the many considerations involved in creating this one-of-a-kind gem. Video showing the creation of the Molly Stone enhances the reader’s understanding of the cutting process.

	IN RAINIER’S FOOTSTEPS: JOURNEY TO THE CHIVOR EMERALD MINE

 Colombia’s Sinaí Valley, the sandstone monolith of El Pulpito hangs from a steep cliff in the top right. The Chivor mine is just out of view above the rock. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA.

	Robert Weldon and coauthors take readers on a trek through Colombian history as they journey to the world-famous Chivor mine, guided by the memoirs of Peter W. Rainier. The field report is accompanied by historical photos from the mine and video of the authors’ journey.

	LAB NOTES

	The Lab Notes section reports on a unique drilled emerald, a natural spinel with an unusual yellowish green color, and the largest blue HPHT synthetic diamonds to date.

	MICRO-WORLD

G&G’s photomicrography section features a metal sulfide inclusion in a pink pyrope garnet, a topaz hosting a triplite inclusion, and a stunning aurora effect in an iris agate (with accompanying video).

	GEM NEWS INTERNATIONAL

Submitted as synthetic diamonds, the 0.99 ct blue-green emerald step cut (left), 0.85 ct brown-yellow standard round brilliant (center), and 1.90 ct deep green standard round brilliant (right) were all identified as synthetic moissanite. Photo by Yanjun Song.

	Highlights from the GNI section include Chinese amber treated through steam dyeing, the spectral characteristics of P. mazatlanica and P. margaritifera oyster species, synthetic moissanite imitating synthetic colored diamond, and more entries from the Tucson gem shows.

	2016 G&G CHALLENGE

	For those interested in testing their knowledge of our 2015 content, the 2016 G&G Challenge will be open until Friday, August 12. Participants who score 75% or higher will receive a certificate of completion, while respondents who earn a perfect score will be listed in the Fall 2016 issue of Gems & Gemology. @chapter:34 @chapter:1 @chapter:34


# Publication Year: 2020
# Title: Manufactured Inclusions in Gem Materials
# Abstract: Figure 1. This 47 ct cabochon was creatively carved from the back, and the hollow cavity was then filled with a yellow and red composite material to highlight the floral inclusion. Photo by Robert Weldon; courtesy of Mike Bowers.
Inclusions in gems have gained popularity as social media has exposed collectors to a wide range of gem materials with interesting inclusions. As a result, there has been an increase in artificial inclusions in natural rock crystal quartz as predicted by E. Skalwold (Summer 2016 Micro-World, pp. 201–202). Recently, the authors had the opportunity to examine several unique gems with manufactured inclusions. Microscopic examination revealed that the main methods for manufacturing inclusions were carving, assembling, dyeing, three-dimensional internal laser engraving, or a combination of these methods.

Figure 2. Tool marks from a rotary abrasive burr are clearly visible in this manufactured floral-shaped inclusion (left; field of view 9.72 mm). The cavity was subsequently filled with a yellow and red composite material consisting of sand grains and a colored binder or resin material (right; field of view 4.26 mm). Photomicrographs by Nathan Renfro; courtesy of Mike Bowers.
A 47 ct rutilated quartz cabochon exhibits an eye-catching yellow and red floral-shaped inclusion produced by creative carving and filling with a colored composite material (figure 1). Microscopic examination revealed circular marks from a rotary abrasive tool used to create the intricate cavity (figure 2, left). The cavity was subsequently filled with a yellow and red composite material of fine sand grains and a colored binder or resin (figure 2, right).

Figure 3. This 226 ct round tablet of quartz contains an orange and yellow resin-filled fracture that convincingly imitates natural iron oxide mineral staining in quartz. Photo by Robert Weldon; courtesy of Mike Bowers.

Figure 4. A fracture in this rock crystal quartz has been filled with orange and yellow resin to give the appearance of natural iron oxide staining. Trapped gas bubbles make this manufactured inclusion readily identifiable. Photomicrograph by Nathan Renfro; field of view 8.94 mm. Courtesy of Mike Bowers.
Another creatively manufactured inclusion in a quartz gem can be seen in a 226 ct round tablet containing a large fracture (figure 3). The fracture was filled with colored orange and yellow resin, which resembles natural iron oxide epigenetic staining sometimes seen in rock crystal quartz. A quick examination in the microscope revealed incomplete filling and trapped gas bubbles in the colored resin (figure 4), making the separation between this manufactured inclusion and its natural counterpart quite easy.

Figure 5. This 109 ct polished block of quartz has been assembled from two halves that contain numerous fractures filled with green resin. They have been glued together so that the moss-like inclusion is completely enclosed in the colorless quartz. Photo by Robert Weldon; courtesy of Mike Bowers.

Figure 6. This moss-like inclusion results from a fracture network in two pieces of rock crystal quartz filled with green resin and glued together to encapsulate the inclusion. The assembly plane of the two quartz halves is clearly visible on the side of the stone (left; field of view 18.80 mm). The green resin contained trapped gas bubbles, and the fractures displayed an unnatural striated appearance suggesting they were artificially induced (right; field of view 2.59 mm). Photomicrographs by Nathan Renfro; courtesy of Mike Bowers.
Creative dyeing also produced the manufactured inclusion in a 109 ct quartz with a completely enclosed green moss-like inclusion (figure 5). This stone consists of two pieces of rock crystal quartz, each with a centralized network of fine fractures that may have been artificially induced by laser, judging from their unnatural irregular pattern and striated appearance. The fracture network in each piece was subsequently filled with a dark green resin to give the appearance of a moss-like inclusion. The two halves were then glued together with colorless cement, completely enclosing the green moss-like inclusions in water clear rock crystal quartz. This left a somewhat obvious assembly plane (figure 6, left) when examined with the microscope, as well as trapped gas bubbles in the green resin-filled areas (figure 6, right).

Figure 7. This 724 ct rock crystal quartz contains two manufactured inclusions induced by a 3D subsurface laser-engraving process. Photo by Robert Weldon; courtesy of Mike Bowers.

Figure 8. These stellate inclusions result from 3D subsurface laser engraving, which creates light scattering micro-fractures in a controlled pattern. These represent the latest advancement in manufactured inclusions within gem materials. Photomicrograph by Nathan Renfro; field of view 23.50 mm. Courtesy of Mike Bowers.
The fourth example of manufactured inclusions recently examined is a 724 ct quartz crystal with a polished face that contains two white stellate inclusions consisting of numerous radial arms surrounding a spherical core structure (figure 7). Closer examination revealed a carefully layered series of micro-fractures consistent with 3D subsurface laser engraving (figure 8). This is by far the most technologically advanced example of a manufactured inclusion in a gem material examined by author NR.
While these four examples of manufactured inclusions may not be quite as sought after as gems with natural inclusions, they certainly can be appreciated for the efforts and techniques employed by the manufacturers. Obviously, collectors of gems that feature inclusions should be aware that manufactured inclusions such as those described here exist in the trade. While some manufactured inclusions may be intended purely as an artistic enhancement, others may be produced with the intention to deceive the consumer, and caution should be used if a manufactured origin is suspected. @chapter:24 @chapter:0 @chapter:24


# Publication Year: 2024
# Title: Pearl fashion is hot Chinese girls flock to buy Bringing the price of pearls up
# Abstract: In the past 2-3 years, the Chinese jewelry market has seen an expansion of the customer base for pearl jewelry. Previously popular among middle-aged women, pearl jewelry has become increasingly popular among younger generations. The market has also seen a rise in diverse and contemporary designs for pearl jewelry, coupled with e-commerce trading, which has expanded the demand for pearl jewelry in China. This strong market demand has driven up the prices of pearls.

The market situation for pearls remains robust and continues to grow steadily. Previously seen as limited to middle-aged and older women, pearls accounted for only 1% of China's jewelry sales in 2019. However, in 2021 and 2023, this percentage increased to 7% and 10%, respectively.

From 2563 to 2565, the pearl market in China has experienced continuous growth, with an average annual expansion rate of 34%. In 2566, the Chinese pearl market reached a value of 350 billion yuan (approximately 1.75 trillion baht), marking a 46% increase. Additionally, the proportion of online trade has increased, indicating the significant role of e-commerce in accelerating the development of the pearl industry. This can be observed through statistics on pearl sales during online shopping festivals like TMALL's 11.11. In 2566, pearl sales during this festival increased by over 450% compared to the previous year. Similarly, during events like Mother's Day and the 520 Festival (a Chinese love festival), pearl sales reached record highs. Moreover, consumers aged 25-30 years old have shown a high demand for pearls, with orders via live streaming platforms like DOUYIN increasing by over 50%. Live streaming has become a crucial sales channel for pearls due to its accessibility and the stimulating format that encourages quick purchasing decisions.

In early 2567, discussions and posts related to pearls on platforms like Xiaohongshu (RED) reached up to 7.17 million times. Furthermore, since 2566, prices for hi-end pearls have increased by 0.5 to 1 times. For example, Japanese AKOYA pearl necklaces sized 8-8.5 millimeters, which were priced at around 18,000 yuan (90,000 baht) two years ago, now start at 30,000 yuan (150,000 baht), marking an increase of nearly 70%. Similarly, Australian white pearls sized 10-12 millimeters, which previously ranged from 100,000 to 150,000 yuan (500,000 - 750,000 baht), have risen to 300,000 yuan (1.5 million baht). Black pearls, a favorite, have nearly doubled in price.

The pearl production in China has decreased every year. China is one of the main producers of pearls, with Zhuji City in Zhejiang Province being the largest producer of large pearls in China. Additionally, Sanzhuihu Town is the largest market for freshwater pearl trading in the world, accounting for 73% of global production and 80% of China's freshwater pearl production. In 2566, China exported 71.3% of its pearls, mainly from Zhejiang Province.

However, despite increasing market demand, pearl production in China has declined from 1.2 million kilograms in 2562 to 700,000 kilograms in 2565. This decline is due to challenges in pearl farming, where saltwater pearls take a long time to produce and have low yields, while freshwater pearls require large amounts of nutrients that pollute the water. Consequently, the Chinese government has implemented policies to control and limit pearl farming to conserve the environment, leading to the closure of non-standard farms and a decrease in pearl production.

China's imports of pearls exceed exports, and the proportion of imports from Thailand is gradually increasing.

In 2566, China's pearl trade had a total value of $101 million (3,737 million baht), marking a decrease of -21.71% (YoY). This comprised exports worth $49 million (1,813 million baht), down by -12.5% (YoY), and imports of $52 million (1,927 million baht), down by -28.77% (YoY). Importantly, China's pearl import structure in 2566 was more diversified, not heavily tied to any specific country as before.

The pearl fashion trend is strong, attracting Chinese women to buy more, thereby driving up pearl prices.

Thailand is one of the top 5 trading partners with China for pearl imports every year. Import trends of pearls from Thailand (HS Code 7101) to China have been relatively positive in the past 2-3 years. In 2564, China imported pearls (HS Code 7101) from Thailand valued at $5.99 million (increased by +96.67%). In 2565, the value rose to $8.66 million (increased by +44.42%), and in 2566, it was $7.93 million (decreased by -8.50%). Import statistics of pearls from Thailand to China reflect a similar trend as China's overall pearl imports. However, analyzing market share (%Share) reveals that Thailand's market share is increasing. In 2564-2566, Thailand's market share was 10.4%, 11.9%, and 15.2%, respectively. In the first quarter of 2567, China imported pearls from Thailand worth $4.90 million, marking a 371.05% increase from the same period the previous year, with a market share of 48.65%.

The market continues to be a family business, which is quite interesting. Behind the popularity of pearls, it is found that the business model is family-oriented. The process of pearls, from semi-finished products to finished goods, requires manual labor and cannot be mass-produced with the same mold. Therefore, it is not suitable for large-scale business operations. Small businesses often play a close role with consumers in providing information, knowledge, and creating a professional understanding of the products. This includes standards for pearl sorting and assessing value, among others. The pearl industry in the Santikhun Hu Subdistrict remains a strong local industry and continues to operate in a family business model.

While China is currently a significant pearl production hub globally, Chinese brands are not yet popular on the international stage. This suggests that there needs to be a higher quality development in the future, particularly in areas like processing, coloring, and chemical use. In summary, China's pearl industry has advantages in terms of production sources, market size, and consumption trends. If there are advancements in aquaculture technology in the future, the quality of Chinese pearls is expected to improve, potentially leading to the establishment of global brands.

The comments from the Office of Trade Promotion in Chengtaw highlight the growing trend of pearl jewelry among Chinese women in recent years. Whether it's earrings, necklaces, or bracelets, they have been well-received by consumers. With the strong consumer response and the continuously growing market for pearls in China, pearl jewelry has become another attractive market for Thai jewelry industry players.

Considering tapping into the Chinese market, it may be beneficial to time marketing activities to coincide with important Chinese festivals such as Valentine's Day, Mother's Day, and others, aligning with the popular trend of gift-giving during these festivals in China. Additionally, focusing on enhancing quality and diversity in design to cater to various customer segments, along with increased investment in brand promotion through Chinese social media channels, could help reach Chinese consumers more effectively.

  @chapter:32 @chapter:3 @chapter:32


# Publication Year: 2014
# Title: Books: Gemstones of the World
# Abstract: By Walter Schumann, 272 pp., hardcover, illus., publ. by Sterling Publishing, New York, NY, 2013. US$24.95.

              First published in English in 1976, Walter Schumann’s Gemstones of the World has served as a handy reference guide to gemologists of any level. The most recent fifth edition is no exception.

The text begins with a brief mineralogical and gemological study, focusing on such topics as basic crystallography and crystal systems, hardness, refractive index, and other pertinent features of gem materials. Schumann largely focuses on minerals but does give proper descriptions of organic and synthetic materials as well. These first few sections serve as an excellent introduction to, or refresher on, many of the basic concepts that help make identification easier. The text is easily comprehensible to those at least somewhat familiar with the science of gemology, and it does a reasonably good job explaining the concepts for a novice. For someone completely new to the science, the jargon may be difficult, although Schumann attempts to bypass this issue by providing a brief list at the beginning of the book of terminology that may be unfamiliar.

Schumann devotes the most space, logically, to the most well-known and economically significant gemstones, such as diamond, sapphire, ruby, and emerald. Lesser-known and rare gems are not neglected, however, and he has compiled a fairly exhaustive list of gemstones, complete with color, hardness, density, refractive index, crystal system, and chemical composition.

At first glance, it would appear that little has changed since the fourth edition in 2009, and indeed most of the easy reference and good basic information is the same. Even the photographs, while very colorful and helpful, remain unchanged and could benefit from some modernization. New to this recent edition is a chapter discussing the symbolic and supposed medicinal significance of different gem materials. The author does approach this subject as a scientist, which is to say with great skepticism, and makes clear numerous times that there is no real proof of gemstones’ effectiveness in easing ailments beyond a well-intentioned placebo effect. It is a brief, interesting look at the historical and current importance of gemstones within a more mystical or homeopathic context, but probably not worth the price of repurchase.

This being the fifth edition, one would expect errors to be essentially nonexistent. Unfortunately, there were a few instances of misspelled gemstones (some of the charts refer to “peridote” rather than “peridot”) and grammatical errors. The brief description of diffusion treatment in corundum is not correct. He vaguely describes the treatment as creating a thin metal layer on the stone, similar to a foil backing. Although diffusion treatment commonly utilizes titanium, a metallic element, the connection between his description and actual diffusion treatment stops here. Additionally, unlike the other treatments he mentions, no detection method for diffusion treated corundum is given. Still, it should be noted that these errors are few and far between, and the book can still be used for referencing and basic information without trouble.

Gemstones of the World is a conveniently sized and organized reference book for both the casual and serious gemologist. Because it is fairly compact, it would be easy to take on field trips for use as a handy guide. The comprehensive listing of gem materials that includes many of the most important identifying features makes it useful for identifying both common and unusual gemstones. For those who already own the previous edition, there might not be much to gain from this latest version. For a first-time buyer, though, it would be a wise investment. @chapter:2 @chapter:0 @chapter:2


# Publication Year: 2022
# Title: Market Reaction to the Pandemic: Insights from Exhibitors
# Abstract: Figure 1. The majority of the 35 exhibitors surveyed have a small-scale business and more than 20 years in the industry.
When COVID-19 evolved from a regional crisis to a global pandemic, the gem and jewelry trade abruptly paused for a short period and then gradually recovered to the pre-pandemic level. To investigate the trade’s reaction, the impact on business, and market trends over the past two years, the authors took advantage of the Tucson show to survey the exhibitors.
This brief report presents outcomes from written surveys conducted with 35 randomly selected AGTA and GJX show exhibitors. The survey consists of two portions: general information about the business, and six pandemic- and market trend-related questions. All 35 exhibitors based their responses on their own experiences, with a very limited number of “not applicable” answers that were not included in the findings.
Nearly all respondents identified themselves as wholesalers, with a couple of exceptions as designers or miners. The authors noticed that some exhibitors played multiple roles: wholesaler, retailer, and sometimes even designer. While traditional roles in the gem and jewelry industry still carry on, the boundaries between them have become blurred. More than 70% of the exhibitors surveyed have fewer than 10 employees, and 85% of them are industry veterans with more than 20 years’ experience in the trade (figure 1). Although the pool is small, it aptly reflects the nature of the gem and jewelry business in general, with small-scale business as the majority, but often with generations of commitment to the industry.
When asked about the impact of the pandemic on their business, most responded that it was most impactful at the beginning of the crisis, but recovery has been quite smooth since then. Some did express concern about the post-pandemic supply issues. Two-thirds of the interviewees stated that more business shifted online over the past two years, resulting in marketing and selling strategy changes (figure 2). Notably, the relatively new businesses, many with less than five years in the trade, often started with more business online than offline. Though sellers mostly embraced online trading of gems and jewelry, some had difficulties capitalizing on it, particularly with colored stones since buyers still prefer to check the quality in person.

Figure 2. Due to mobility restrictions caused by the pandemic, most companies have shifted at least some business online to adapt to the new normal. This often required changes in sourcing, marketing, and selling strategies.
To investigate the types of stone and jewelry sales over the past two years, the authors asked the selected exhibitors to circle the corresponding items, with many circling multiple answers in each category. These questions covered gemstone species, jewelry, precious metal, and pearl types, with the understanding that while diamond sales continue to dominate the market, they are not the focus for the exhibitors surveyed. Not surprisingly, the “big three” still dominate sales, with sapphire leading the trend (figure 3, top), and tourmaline and spinel immediately following the big three. As for jewelry types, rings and earrings lead the way (figure 3, middle). Yellow gold still sells the best, with platinum as the second best seller (figure 3, bottom). Several pearl dealers circled their best sellers, but the authors found that overall sales were quite evenly distributed among the four major cultured pearl types.

Figure 3. The best sellers over the past two years during the pandemic, according to gemstone species, jewelry type, and precious metal type.
As traceability is a hot topic in the trade, the authors also asked two related questions about whether respondents noticed increased consumer concern on traceability. If they answered yes, they were asked whether it affected how they do business. The result shows that about two-thirds of them noticed the concern, and two-thirds of those who noticed the concern did not feel that it affected their business (figure 4).

Figure 4. Many of the exhibitors surveyed noticed an increase in consumer concern about traceability, but the majority of them said it does not impact their business.
As the world enters the post-pandemic era, it is worthwhile to continue monitoring how the market reacts to the changes and how tradespeople adapt to the new normal. @chapter:32 @chapter:3 @chapter:32


# Publication Year: 2000
# Title: Pre-Columbian Gems and Ornamental Materials from Antigua, West Indies
# Abstract: Two archeological sites that were discovered recently on the island of Antigua appear to have had flourishing lapidary industries. Excavation of these sites, which date to about 250–500 AD (Saladoid period), has revealed beads, pendants, and “zemis” made from a variety of materials, with shell being the most abundant. All of the unworked materials (e.g., shell, carnelian, and diorite) are of local origin. However, amethyst, nephrite, serpentine, and turquoise were found only as finished gems; these are not local and imply that trade or exchange existed between Antigua and other parts of the Caribbean and possibly the Americas during Saladoid time. @chapter:40 @chapter:0 @chapter:40


# Publication Year: -
# Title: The Business of Bling A Career in Jewelry Sales
# Abstract: Imagine a job where you're surrounded by shimmering diamonds, rubies, lustrous cultured pearls, and velvety blue sapphires. If this sounds like a dream come true, then perhaps a career in the glamorous and alluring world of gems and jewelry is for you.

Positions can range from working with gemstones to designing or manufacturing the latest jewelry, and from selling jewelry to managing a retail jewelry store. While each of these positions requires specialized education, a position in retail jewelry sales is one of the easiest and fastest ways to start a career in the gem and jewelry industry. GIA’s senior industry analyst, Russell Shor, estimates there are approximately 250,000 employed in retail jewelry sales in the U.S.

A retail jewelry sales position can also lead to a substantial income for top sales professionals, and commissions can add even more to the income. But jewelry sales associates say one of the most rewarding aspects of their work is the prospect of bringing symbols of love and happiness into someone’s life.

“The ability to answer questions about gems, jewelry design and the manufacturing process is critical to succeeding in jewelry sales,” said Larry Larson, GIA instructor. “While an aptitude for customer service is necessary, product knowledge cements the opportunity to close the sale. People buy from whom they trust… and they trust those who are educated.”

To gain this essential product knowledge, specialized courses are required. These courses can be taken through the convenience of distance education, such as GIA’s Accredited Jewelry Professional (AJP) diploma program. This program provides a strong foundation in product knowledge and sales through three short courses: Jewelry Essentials, Colored Stone Essentials, and Diamond Essentials. GIA, an independent, nonprofit organization based in Carlsbad, Calif., is a top educational institution for the gem and jewelry industry and the world's foremost authority in gemology.

The AJP program was designed for people who want to start a career in the jewelry industry. The courses give the right amount of product knowledge and sales techniques to answer questions that can arise in a retail situation. @chapter:32 @chapter:3 @chapter:32


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Characterization of Blue Sapphires from the Mogok Stone Tract, Mandalay Region, Burma (Myanmar)
# Abstract: Iridescent arrowhead needles and thin film, a characteristic inclusion found in Mogok Burmese blue sapphires.
Oblique illumination, field of view 1.80 mm. Photo: C. Khowpong © GIA.

The Mogok Stone Tract of central Myanmar (Burma) is one of the world’s most famed sources of colored stones, particularly ruby, sapphire, and spinel. Researchers from GIA’s Bangkok laboratory recently investigated 69 blue sapphires from the northern, western, eastern and northwestern areas of Mogok. They performed microscopic examination, FTIR and UV-Vis-NIR spectroscopy, and chemical analysis by LA-ICP-MS to establish identifying characteristics and properties of blue sapphires from Mogok.

The results are available in a study titled “Characterization of blue sapphires from the Mogok Stone Tract, Mandalay region, Burma (Myanmar).” The authors concluded that blue sapphires from Mogok possess a variety of internal characteristics and chemistry features that may support their identification as Burmese. @chapter:14 @chapter:0 @chapter:14


# Publication Year: 2015
# Title: A Closer Look at the Micro-World of Gems
# Abstract: The micro-world of gems lies at the very core of gemology. Information gathered from observations through the microscope serves as the very foundation for many conclusions drawn on a specimen, including identification, treatment detection, separation of natural and synthetic materials, and geographic origin. Even a gem’s genesis and the secrets of Earth’s depths may ultimately be revealed. This inner world waits for gemologists, both new and experienced, to take the time for a closer look, to dive into its depths, and to thoroughly explore its landscape. continual practice, careful observation, and patience will hone both technique and interpretive prowess.

In this series, we invite you to join us for an extended tour through the astounding beauty and variety found in the micro-world of gems and related materials.

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	Photomicrograph Gallery
Introduction to the Micro-World of Gems - G&G’s new column takes a closer look at the hidden wonders found in gemstones.
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Amber with Mite Inclusion - An unusual mite is preserved in a 30-million-year old amber specimen.
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Apatite “Piñata” - A cracked apatite specimen reveals hidden treasure.
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Iridescent Musgravite - A musgravite specimen’s inclusions result in an optical phenomenon unusual for the material.
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Cat’s-eye Phenakite - Inclusions create chatoyancy in a colorless phenakite cabochon.
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Unusual Pink Sapphire Bead - A pink sapphire bead with drill holes revealing ruby fragments is examined.
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Bicolor Double-Eye Tourmaline - A tourmaline displaying different colors of chatoyancy on opposite sides of a double cabochon is examined.
Read More @chapter:2 @chapter:0 @chapter:2


# Publication Year: 2013
# Title: Atypical Freshwater Cultured Pearls with Damaged Nacre
# Abstract: Figure 1. These four atypical freshwater cultured pearls with damaged nacre reveal one or more distinct nacreous layers underneath. Left to right: samples 1–4. Photo by Chunhui Zhou.

Recently the East Coast laboratory received four baroque-shaped pearls ranging in size from 9.07 × 13.50 × 14.03 mm to 9.32 × 11.34 × 15.77 mm  and weighing between 10.63 and 13.60 ct. On each of the four samples, the outermost surface nacre layers exhibited large holes and gaps, revealing one or more distinct nacreous layers underneath (figure 1). These underlying nacreous layers displayed good luster and overlapping platelet surface structures, and the large gaps between the inner and outermost nacre layers indicated that smaller pearls had been used as nuclei during the culturing process.
Further gemological testing by energy-dispersive X-ray fluorescence (EDXRF) and inductively coupled plasma–mass spectrometry (ICP-MS) confirmed that both the outer and inner nacre layers originated from a freshwater environment. Some of these pearls contained widely varying amounts of trace elements (i.e., Mn and Mg) between the outer and inner layers, but previous studies have found that uneven distribution of trace elements can also occur in a pearl’s cross section (R. Lu et al., “Operational considerations of EDXRF, LA-ICP-MS, and photoluminescence techniques in the analysis of pearls,” Summer 2011 G&G, pp. 149–150).
Two did not show any distinct internal demarcation when examined with X-radiography in various directions (figure 2). This lack of a clear internal boundary may be due to multiple culturing attempts using the same pearl as a nucleus, which can cause overlapped internal structures and multiple distinct nacreous layers under the surface, as shown in the third sample. In addition, structures typical of non-bead cultured pearls were observed in these micro X-radiographs, suggesting that freshwater cultured pearls were used as nuclei during the culturing process.

Figure 2. X-radiographs show partial demarcation between the outer and inner structures of cultured pearls 1 and 2, but fail to reveal any clear boundaries in samples 3 and 4. Photo by Chunhui Zhou.
Finally, photographs of the X-ray fluorescence reactions of all four pearls were taken in a dark environment (figure 3). Various intensities of green and yellowish green fluorescence could be observed within each nacreous layer, presumably due to varying concentrations of manganese between layers and among the pearls themselves (H.A. Hanni et al., “X-ray luminescence, a valuable test in pearl identification,” 2005 Journal of Gemmology, 29, 5/6, pp. 325–329). More interestingly, reddish fluorescence was also observed around the damaged areas of the nacre in samples 3 and 4. This was possibly caused by foreign material between the “nucleus-pearl” and the outer nacre layers, which may also contribute to the lack of distinct demarcation observed in the cultured structure.

Figure 3. X-ray fluorescence images of the four cultured pearls showing various degrees of green or yellowish green fluorescence between inner and outer layers. Atypical orangy red fluorescence is also visible between the layers in samples 3 and 4. Photo by Chunhui Zhou.
While similar types of pearls with intact outer nacre surfaces have been reported on previously (E. Strack, “Chinese freshwater cultured pearls beaded with baroque freshwater cultured pearls,” Fall 2011 G&G, pp. 244–245), the ambiguous internal structures, interesting X-ray fluorescence properties, and large gaps in the outer nacre layers of these four samples offer a rare view of their internal physical structure and appearance, obtained free of destructive testing. @chapter:11 @chapter:4 @chapter:11


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Jewelry Industry Experts Inspire Job Seekers
# Abstract: From left: Moderator Susan Jacques, GIA president and CEO (January 2014); Douglas K. Hucker, CEO of the American Gem Trade Association; Lex Graham, GIA Graduate Gemologist for Betteridge Jewelers; and Dione Kenyon, president of the Jewelers Board of Trade, share advice during the opening panel "Job Success in Today's Market" at GIA's 2013 Jewelry Career Fair in Carlsbad, California.

	Students, job seekers and jewelry industry veterans gathered at GIA’s world headquarters in Carlsbad, California on Oct. 11, 2013 for GIA’s annual Jewelry Career Fair. The free event is an opportunity for attendees to network and connect with companies through recruiting sessions, one-on-one career coaching and panel discussions that feature down-to-earth advice.

	The panelists of “Job Success in Today’s Market,” “From Design to Finish” and “Creative Careers” have various professional backgrounds – from long-time industry veterans to a recent GIA graduate a few years into his career – with a common goal to give back by sharing what they’ve learned.

	Here is some of their best advice:

Susan Jacques, GIA president and CEO (January 2014), shared the unlikely path that led to her career in the jewelry industry: “Don’t lose opportunities that come your way in life because you believe you already know what your destiny is. Leap out of your comfort zone, take some chances – and you will be pleasantly surprised with what your life might bring for you.”

	She also spoke about the importance of honesty: “Be loyal. Lead your life and your career with passion, ethics, integrity and trustworthiness. In our industry it’s all about your word. It’s who you are and what you say.”

Dione D. Kenyon, president of Jewelers Board of Trade, challenged job seekers to become lifelong learners: “Invest in yourself. Don’t give-up. Be persistent. Show up. Have a strong work ethic. Look the part. Take risks. Have a global perspective.”

Lex Graham, a GIA Graduate Gemologist for Betteridge Jewelers: “If you face bumps in an interview, work through them. Remember, an interview is your chance to show off your greatest strength – yourself.” He also encouraged attendees to challenge themselves: “If you don’t keep moving forward in this industry, you stop.”

Douglas K. Hucker, CEO of the American Gem Trade Association, on the importance of networking and stepping out of your comfort zone: “Get in people’s faces. Sit in the front row and take your sunglasses off. If you’re going to get into this business you’ve got to meet people.”

Charlie Herner, CAD/CAM director of Green Lake Jewelry Works, on trying new things: “You learn from your failures. Fail as often as you can – you won’t make those mistakes again. Don’t turn down a project. You’ll be amazed at what you can learn from each one.”

Jewelry designer Alishan Halebian said it’s important for designers to determine their niche: “Figure out where you fit. What makes your business (different)?”

Jewelry designer Erik Stewart encouraged aspiring designers to enter as many contests as possible because it can help you gain exposure in the jewelry industry:  “Talk to anybody and everybody… especially editors and writers, because it’s free publicity.”

Designer Erica Courtney on how to start a jewelry line: “Be patient. Start little by little. Keep trying. Always push yourself to make it better.”

Yancy Weinrich, group vice president of JCK Portfolio, on joining industry associations: "Get involved in the industry. Build those relationships. Understand how you can help people and how they can help you."

Au-Co Mai, president and CEO of Emitations.com, said when starting a new business, instead of focusing on the obstacles, look at what is accessible to you and be creative.

Hutton Wilkinson, president and creative director of Tony Duquette, Inc., on designing jewelry: “Don’t second-guess yourself and don’t let others second-guess you. Just go for it. Do what makes you happy.”

Rebecca Boyajian, director of communications for Bill Boyajian & Associates Inc.: “When opportunities come your way, say yes and figure it out later. I’m always looking for new opportunities – because I don't know everything and I want to know more.” @chapter:45 @chapter:3 @chapter:45


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Amber History and Lore
# Abstract: Gierlowska's lizard from the collection of the Gdansk Amber Museum, Gdansk, Poland.

                      Amber is probably best known for its insect and other types of inclusions. Millions of years ago, when amber oozed from countless plants, the substance acted as a sticky trap for ants, bees, termites, and other insects. Flower parts, leaves, and pine needles are also typical amber inclusions, along with gas bubbles.

Amber containing larger animals like scorpions, snails, frogs, and lizards can be very valuable—especially if the animal “inclusions” are preserved intact.

	The fossilized extinct lizard trapped in this piece of amber from the Dominican Republic is over a million years old. - Dr. Edward J. Gubelin
Insects embedded in amber formed the basis of the movie “Jurassic Park.” The story centered around the cloning of dinosaurs from DNA found in dinosaur blood sucked up by prehistoric mosquitoes that were subsequently preserved in amber. The movie generated great interest in the gem. @chapter:51 @chapter:0 @chapter:51


# Publication Year: 2014
# Title: Stone and Fossil Photography – Tucson 2014
# Abstract: Figure 1. This enlarged image of a Peruvian opal showcases the dramatic forms captured by Mike Woodward. Courtesy of Mike Woodward Photography.

              At the Tucson Gem and Mineral Show, Mike Woodward (San Clemente, California) showcased a collection of stone and fossil photos (figure 1). With their variety of arresting forms, the images resemble abstract paintings or landscapes. Among the featured materials were Australian and Peruvian opal, banded agate, and ammonite. Woodward, a graphic designer by trade, has collected stones since the age of five, and has photographed them for 12 years. The images are captured with a 4 × 5 camera, using a polarized macro lens and a high-resolution digital camera back. They are enlarged as single panels, or triptychs, and available in a variety of formats, including canvas, aluminum prints, and traditional photographic prints. @chapter:31 @chapter:2 @chapter:31


# Publication Year: 1990
# Title: Summer 1990 Gem News International
# Abstract: Diamonds
            Scientists Research Material as Hard as Diamond
            Malaysia Diamond Plant
            Botswana Beats Target
            Soviet-Singapore Joint Venture
            New Area in Angola to be Mined
            Argyle Cutting School Near Beijing
            Kimberlite Find in the U.S.
            Diamond-Cutting Industry in Sri Lanka
            Tanzania Intensifies Mineral Search
            Prospecting in Botswana
Colored Stones
            Assembled "Plume" Agate
            Apatite "From Paraiba" and Apatite Purchased as Emerald
            Brazilian Chrysoprase
            Major Jade Deposits in Japan
            Attractive Chatoyant Assembled Opal
            Peridot Mining Update
            California Quartz Update
            Unusual Pseudomorph
            Rubies from Vietnam?
            Rock-like Material with Play-of-Color
            Cat's-Eye Topaz
            The Discovery of the Paraiba Tourmaline Mine
            Tourmaline Doublets
            "Treasure" Postage Stamp
Synthetics and Simulants
            Plastic Cameo Imitations
            Imitation Emeralds from Southern Africa
            Imitation Rhodochrosite Beads
Announcements
            Tiffany & Co. Donation to Smithsonian
            Donation of Citrine to Natural History Museum
            GemFire Exhibit at Cleveland Museum

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:21 @chapter:0 @chapter:21


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Amber Quality Factors
# Abstract: The word amber means brownish yellow, but the gem can be yellow, golden, white, orange to reddish brown, or even bluish or greenish.

                      Baltic amber is generally more expensive than Dominican amber. Pieces containing insect or plant inclusions fetch higher prices than clean pieces without such inclusions. For example, amber cabochons with no insect inclusions cost only a few dollars per piece, while pieces with easily seen or complete insect or plant specimens might sell for thousands of dollars.

Color
Although consumers are most familiar with yellow and golden amber, the gem can be white, yellow, and orange to reddish brown. Reddish amber is more valuable than golden amber, which is more valuable than yellow amber. Rarely, strong fluorescence can give amber a bluish or greenish appearance, which when attractive can be highly valuable. Oxidation might cause the material to change color over time.

Cutting and polishing amber for jewelry makes it more susceptible to oxidation by removing or thinning the harder exterior surface. Fine translucent yellow or orange amber can gradually darken to reddish brown and eventually black.

	Green amber’s color can be produced by treatment with heat and pressure. - Courtesy Treasure Green Amber, Ltd.
The color of amber can be modified by heat treatment and dyeing.

	Some rare amber specimens turn blue in fluorescent light. This striking example is from the Dominican Republic. - Courtesy Ambar Azul
Clarity
Transparent amber is more valuable than cloudy material. An interesting plant or animal inclusion adds to the value of an amber specimen.

	This large, elongated amber bead contains a fairly intact insect inclusion. The gem weighs 93.87 carats.
Treatment by careful heating in rapeseed (canola) oil can clarify cloudy amber somewhat. The resulting amber sometimes exhibits crack-like circular marks called sun spangles.

Cut
Amber is commonly polished into a free-form shape that follows the original shape of the rough. It might then be set into jewelry or drilled for stringing. Cutting styles for amber include beads, cabochons, and free-form polished pieces. Amber might be faceted, but this is rare.

	Amber can be fashioned into a variety of shapes. Many people think of amber as transparent, but it can also be opaque. - Courtesy Ginger Moro
Carat Weight
Amber has a lower relative density than salt water so it can feel very light, even in large sizes. This makes it possible to use fairly large sizes in amber jewelry.

	Amber beads come in a wide variety of shapes and can be quite large due to their light weight. - Irena Misevic/Shutterstock @chapter:51 @chapter:0 @chapter:51


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Sapphires from Anakie, Australia: A Closer Look at Blue, Yellow, Green and Bicolor Sapphires
# Abstract: Some of the studied samples from Australia. Colors ranged from blue to dark blue, yellowish green, yellow, and greenish yellow to brownish yellow. Photo by Lhapsin Nillapat. Courtesy of Fura Gems.

Though long underappreciated, Australian sapphires could see a resurgence with the arrival of Fura Gems, a major mining and marketing company. A team of GIA researchers recently took a deeper look at the colors and causes of color of these sapphires, as well as the internal inclusion scenes observed.
The results are available in a study titled “Sapphires from Anakie, Australia: A Closer Look at Blue, Yellow, Green and Bicolor Sapphires.” The authors concluded that these sapphires are relatively high in Fe, resulting in their blue-green-yellow colors. Advanced statistical techniques can often help separate Australian sapphires from those in other deposits worldwide. @chapter:16 @chapter:0 @chapter:16


# Publication Year: 2014
# Title: Gem craftsmen of Chanthaburi _30
# Abstract: Since then, there have been numerous trials and errors in the art of heat-treating gemstones in Chanthaburi, until successful methods were developed. This achievement has become a source of pride for the people of Chanthaburi to this day. @chapter:40 @chapter:2 @chapter:40


# Publication Year: 2006
# Title: Identification and Durability of Lead Glass–Filled Rubies
# Abstract: In early 2004, the GAAJ laboratory in Japan issued a lab alert about rubies they had seen that had large numbers of fractures filled with high-lead-content glass, which made them appear very transparent. Since then, large quantities of this material have reached international markets. This dramatic treatment is not difficult to identify with a standard gemological microscope, since it has characteristics similar to clarity-enhanced diamonds (flash effect, gas bubbles, etc.). However, locating filled cavities in reflected light is more challenging, as the surface luster of the filler is close to that of ruby. The filling material appears to be very effective in reducing the appearance of fractures. Durability testing of a few samples by highly skilled jewelers indicated that the filler was fairly resistant to heat exposure during jewelry repair procedures, but it reacted readily with solvents. @chapter:18 @chapter:0 @chapter:18


# Publication Year: 1989
# Title: Thermal Alteration of Inclusions in "Rutilated" Topaz
# Abstract: Faceted colorless topaz containing acicular inclusions has been offered for sale as "rutilated" topaz. Earlier investigations have shown the inclusions to be limonite-stained etched dislocation channels. This article reports on the use of heat treatment to alter the limonite staining to hematite, thus changing the color of the inclusions and making them more prominent. @chapter:2 @chapter:0 @chapter:2


# Publication Year: 1989
# Title: Winter 1989 Gem News International
# Abstract: Diamonds
            Filled Diamond Update
            Diamond Exploration in Pilbara, Australia
            Increased Diamond Output in Botswana
            Ghana May Privatize Mines
            Diamond Cutting Expands in Mauritius
            Diamond Exploration on the West Coast of South Africa
Colored Stones
            Burmese Contract for New Mining Technology
            "Adularescent" Chalcedony
            Star Chrysoberyl from Sri Lanka
            Update on Hackmanite
            Psilomelane and Basalt: Novel Black Carving Materials
            Quench-Crackled, Dyed-Green Quartz
            Huge, Doubly Terminated Sapphire Crystal
            Sapphires Found in Burundi
            Mining Ventures are Reactivated in Southeast Asia
            Large Faceted Pamir Spinel
            Sri Lanka Update
            Paraiba Tourmaline Update
            Unusual Multi-Colored Tourmaline
Synthetics and Simulants
            Synthetic Corundum "Crystals"
            Flux Synthetic Spinel
            New Man-Made Crystal
Announcements
            Van Cleef & Arpels Exhibit at L.A. Museum
            Sinkankas Book in 3rd Printing
            Aurora Gem Collection
            Hong Kong Jewelry & Watch Fair
            Jewelex ’90 Korea

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:4 @chapter:0 @chapter:4


# Publication Year: 1992
# Title: Fall 1992 G&G Book Reviews
# Abstract: “Corundum”
By Richard W. Hughes, 314 pp., illus., publ. by Butterworth-Heinemann, London, 1990. US$39.95

“Properties and Applications of Diamond”
By John Wilks and Eileen Wilks, 525 pp., illus., publ. by Butterworth-Heinemann, Oxford, England, 1991. US$175.00

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:35 @chapter:1 @chapter:35


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Award-Winning Designer Aims for the ‘Edge of the Industry’
# Abstract: Tucson-based jeweler Erik Stewart, GIA GG, honed his CAD and bench skills at GIA before going on to win multiple awards for his “often architectural” designs. Courtesy Erik Stewart

                      Designer Erik Stewart may have debuted in the wholesale world as a JCK Rising Star in Las Vegas two years ago, but his first real foray into the industry goes much further back.

As a child, Stewart tagged along with his mother to the jewelry design classes she taught in the parks and recreation department in the family’s hometown of Tucson, Arizona. As a young teen, tagging along with Mom meant working shows with her – and he did so “begrudgingly.”

“I’ll admit that I was much more interested in being an irresponsible teenager or perhaps entering the minor leagues for baseball at the time,” he laughs.

But at 16, Stewart, who had been practicing bench skills in spite of his all-star dreams, sold one of his own designs.

“I was in awe that someone would pay money for something I created with my mind and hands,” Stewart says. “I became addicted.”

His professional dreams suddenly made an about-face. Supported by his parents – his jeweler mother and architect father – the high school senior decided he needed to round out his industry skills beyond bench and retail, and study gemology.

Stewart began GIA’s distance education courses while working jewelry retail counters in Tucson, then moved to the Institute’s Carlsbad campus to “submerge” himself into the world of like-minded professionals and the jewelry industry culture.

He earned his Graduate Gemologist diploma in 2003, and by that time had also earned a position as a sales representative with Neissing, a German designer. After that came a bench position at Phoenix’s Molina Fine Jewelry, though Stewart plugged away at custom designs in his downtime.

He launched his own line – the Erik Stewart Jewelry Art for the Body Collection – at retail shows in 2005.

Stewart says his “often architectural” style, though it has evolved with time, remains “deeply rooted” in his early professional experiences. “I’m attracted to the minimalist, contemporary and conceptual approach of German designers such as Neissing ‒ and in awe of the attention to the detail and precision of Molina’s Fine Jewelry,” he says.

	The Elizabethan ruff, with “small and precise serpentines,” is featured in Stewart’s palladium “Elizabeth” ring; Arizona turquoise and 0.75 total carats of colored diamonds share the spotlight. The ring earned Stewart a Silver Award from Solidscape’s BaselWorld Design Competition in 2013 “for his flawless execution of a complex ring.” Photo courtesy of Erik Stewart
The Tucson-based designer, who entered the wholesale market in 2012, also uses the skills he honed at GIA every day.

“I work from a conceptual design basis, so finding the gemstones comes second, but the criteria is always color and wearability,” Stewart says. He can narrow down those diamond and gemstone choices remotely, based on their specs alone, and select the best stones for his designs because he understands a gem’s colors, hardness, wearability and ideal applications. He can also “enhance precision and create clean lines” because of his CAD training.

“GIA gave me the knowledge needed to trust myself – I don’t guess, I know,” he says.

Stewart, whose design awards include GIA’s George A. Schuetz Design Contest, the Johnson Matthey New York Sustainable Design Award and the Platinum Innovation Awards, encourages GIA students to “build a network of support” during their time on campus, and to utilize all of the resources available to them.

“I fully took advantage of the design contests, Career Fair and especially the library – I made many appointments to read rare books in the back room,” he says. “And the connections I built in my nine months at GIA, from peers to professionals, continue to carry me forward in ways I never imagined.”

Stewart, who lives in Arizona with his wife, Sara, and the couple’s newborn son, Hudson, says he continues to focus on knowing what makes him different as a designer ‒ and staying true to that.

“That perspective may be different from others because it doesn’t always pay off, at least not right away,” he says. “But it does keep me on the edge of the industry, where I strive to be.”

	This award-winning platinum ring, left – featuring 1.36 total carats of sapphires and 1.35 total carats of diamonds – showcases Stewart’s signature fluted design, which pays homage to the Elizabethan collar, or “ruff.” The ring won both the 2011 Niche Award for Fine Jewelry and earned the 2012 JCK Platinum Innovation Award for Platinum Red Carpet Jewelry (Buyer’s Choice). The palladium “Phoenix” cufflinks, left, are made of 950 palladium with 18K yellow gold accents set with padparadscha sapphires. The cufflinks, along with a matching ring, took first place at GIA’s 2008 George A. Schuetz Jewelry Design Contest. Photos courtesy of Erik Stewart @chapter:45 @chapter:2 @chapter:45