# Publication Year: -
# Title: Active GIA Alumni Members: More Than 100,000 Strong
# Abstract: Alumni chapter leaders meet up at Hong Kong Jewelry Fair. From left: George Chen, Taiwan chapter vice president; Mark Hsu, Taiwan chapter immediate past president; Li Shi-Chuan, Taiwan chapter president, Julius Zheng, Shanghai chapter president; Vivian Wang, GIA in Taiwan campus director; Mia Florencio, Philippine alumni member; Yihchen Ng, Malaysia chapter president; and Ken Wan, Malaysia chapter vice president.

                      Greetings:

Our alumni association hit a milestone recently when we surpassed 100,000 active members. That is significant for all of us because it gives us more opportunities for networking, mentoring and connecting with more people who have a passion for what we do.

That was brought home to me in the last few months as I was on the road (and in the air) traveling to tradeshows and alumni events in Boston, New York, Chicago and across South Africa. I met many alumni members along the way and in each place I went, I felt their passion for what they do. It was inspiring to hear the stories, aspirations and memories of so many graduates and students, which resonates with my own passion for gemology, which I was fortunate to recognize a long time ago. I love sharing it with so many amazing people across the globe.

While I was busy traveling, our chapters ‒ more than 70 worldwide ‒ were busy doing what they do best ‒ delivering events and education to our alumni worldwide. They have hosted 100 events so far this year, with more than 45 activities since June!

The following are some highlights:

The 5th Global Alumni Forum session took place in late August and continues to grow in measured success and effectiveness for our chapters: 43 alumni leaders from 38 chapters and nine countries participated. We spent the time discussing how to develop and support of our global alumni community.
A visit to Africa – Johannesburg, Cape Town and Gaborone. Three events, featuring GIA updates, research news and gemological history, were hosted for our alumni and the gem and jewelry trade across South Africa. Their success and attendance were extraordinary and we appreciate the lengths many traveled to attend.
40th Reunion – Graduates from the Class of 1974 gathered for a reception, dinner and visit to the new GIA lab and campus location in the International Gem Tower in New York. Attendees eagerly shared stories from the classroom that made us all laugh, their successes and personal notes and remembrances of those who could not attend. Susan Jacques, president and CEO of GIA, and Tom Moses, executive vice president and chief lab and research officer of GIA, also attended the evening celebration.

Here’s some of the chapter news and events that have occurred in recent months:

Tanzania – our newest chapter! – hosted a very successful first event in July.
Social gatherings brought members of the Houston, Malaysia, Metro-Phoenix, Toronto and Vancouver chapters together.
Hong Kong Gem and Jewelry Fair – was a prime meeting spot for chapter leaders from Malaysia, Taiwan, China and Philippines.
Historical jewelry brands, museum collections and archaeogemmology were some of the topics and field trips put together, including: California – Golden Gate’s lecture on Faberge and notable jewels by Fred Feldmesser; a Colorado – Mile High evening with Dr. Jeffrey Post, curator of the Smithsonian Institute; Houston’s field trip to a Bulgari exhibit; Washington D.C. presentations by Dr. Cigdem Lule on archeogemmology, jewelry historians Elyse Zorn Karlin and Gail Brett Levine, and a third historically focused event that featured Helen Serras-Herman on Maya jade.
A private gem and mineral collection viewing and museum tour was the good fortune of our London members.
Colored gems inspired many industry notables to educate our chapters, including: Doug Hucker, CEO of American Gem Trade Association (AGTA) for New England; Edward Boehm on sourcing gemstones for North Carolina; Metro-Phoenix hosted tsavorite expert Bruce Bridges; Professor Robert Stern on ruby and jadeite for Washington D.C.; and author Renee Newman speaking on exotic gems for Michigan and Houston.
Diamond faceting demonstrations and a lecture featuring Mike and Evert Botha, of Embee Diamonds, were held by Mid-Tennessee and Northeast Florida.
Four chapter events tapped into the knowledge and experience of their members. San Diego and Mid-Tennessee featured Blaire Beavers and Gina Latendresse on pearls, and Colorado – Mile High, San Diego and South Carolina featured members’ experiences in gemology and first-hand field gemology travels to Madagascar, South Africa and Namibia.
Films on gems and jewelry created by alumni were featured, including the production journey of the soon-to-be-released film “Mine to Market” by Roger Dery (AGTA Spectrum winner) in Manhattan, and the “Masters of Dreams” documentary by alum and creator Ken McGrath was shared in London.

The documentary film “Masters of Dreams” was the creative work of GIA graduate Ken McGrath, left, who autographs copies for students at the GIA campus in London.

Gemology “hands-on” emerald treatment sessions were held in Michigan by representatives from Gemworld Intl.
Jewelry design events featured famed jewelry designers Paula Crevoshay in Manhattan and Judy Evans in Metro-Phoenix.
The Mexico City chapter hosted their latest Gemstone Safari to see the pearl harvest at Sea of Cortez pearl farms.
GIA laboratory and education representatives spoke, including Nathan Renfro who presented on the micro art of gems in St. Louis; and Claudia D'Andrea, GIA director of education in Thailand, and Kenneth Scarratt, GIA managing director of Southeast Asia and director of the GIA Laboratory in Bangkok, who gave colored gemstone and diamond updates in Malaysia.

Alumni News – take note!

Save the Date! Join us to “Party at the GIA Gem Mine: Rocking Down Under” at the annual Tucson reunion, dinner dance and auction on Feb. 6, 2015. Chapters and individuals can help make this a success with your attendance and support. Consider donating something related to this fun theme. Please contact us for further donation information. Tickets are available; register early and save!
Scholarships are available – Take advantage of the MANY scholarship opportunities available. Simply apply before Oct. 31 by submitting an online application for GIA education scholarships offered around the world including on campus, eLearning and lab classes.

Looking ahead, the fourth quarter will go by in a flash. Lifetime students – enjoy the activities our chapters have planned through the end of the year. Participants in the Continuing Education Recognition Program – remember to complete your lessons before Dec. 31.

Kate Donovan, GIA alumni relations manager, visits Diamond Trading Company
Botswana(DTCB) to deliver a copy of Gems & Gemology to Keneilwe Dihutso, a
diamond grader at DTCB whose photo is featured in the summer 2014 issue. @chapter:47 @chapter:3 @chapter:47


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Spring 2009 G&G Book Reviews
# Abstract: “Cartier”
By Hans Nadelhoffer, 352 pp., illus., publ. by Chronicle Books [www.chroniclebooks.com], San Francisco, 2007. US$75.00

“7000 Years of Jewelry”
By Hugh Tait, Ed., 256 pp., illus., publ. by Firefly Books, Buffalo, NY, 2008. US$29.95

“Pegmatites”
By David London, 368 pp, illus., publ. by the Mineralogical Association of Canada [www.mineralogicalassociation.ca], 2008. US$125.00

“Brooches: Timeless Adornment”
By Lori Ettlinger Gross, 192 pp., illus., publ. by Rizzoli International Publications, New York, 2008. US$45.00

“Collector’s Guide to the Epidote Group”
By Robert J. Lauf, 96 pp., illus., publ. by Schiffer Publishing, Arglen, PA, 2008. US$19.99

“World of Gems Conference”
Edited by Richard Drucker, 90 pp., illus., publ. by Gemworld International [www.gemguide.com], Glenview, IL, 2008, US$29.95

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:31 @chapter:2 @chapter:31


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Shared Bonds: GIA Education Connects Alumni Members Around the World – for Life
# Abstract: Alumni members travel the world to meet fellow graduates and experience all the gem and jewelry industry has to offer, such as the Mexico chapter’s annual visit to pearl farms in the Sea of Cortez. Photo courtesy of the GIA Mexico City Alumni Chapter

	Alumni members around the globe continue to amaze me with their commitment, dedication and pursuit of excellence.

	In recent months, I have had opportunities to interact with many members worldwide as I visited some of our global chapters. I shared celebrations of longevity, observed the positive evolution of change and supported the advancement of both chapters and individuals. Each experience made it possible for me to observe first-hand the impact GIA education has had on so many.

	I visited with chapter members in Japan, Korea, Malaysia and across the U.S., and connected with members from Asia, Europe, the Middle East and North and South America at trade fairs. Alumni shared stories of personal achievements and lifetime opportunities that they attribute directly to their GIA education, including increased personal confidence and professionalism; the significance of their reputation and responsibility as individuals to uphold ethical industry standards; and the value of a lifetime of learning.

	These foundations − along with the relationships that began between classmates or developed as industry associates − continue to connect our alumni worldwide. Their shared experiences and mutual respect often bring alums together for business success. It’s heartwarming to hear of so many personal successes and commitments of alumni − to the Institute and themselves − to uphold GIA’s legacy of excellence.

	I applaud members around the world for their actions, and encourage others not active in the alumni community to take steps to get more involved. One of the ways alumni can do so is to take the opportunity to network ‒ whether in your home city or when you travel ‒ at GIA Alumni Association chapter events. These provide limitless possibilities for you to stay relevant with issues and to make new connections in the industry to become more successful. More than 40 events were hosted by GIA Alumni Association chapters since May 2016. You can visit our events page and the alumni Facebook page to learn when events are scheduled.

A group of alumni gathered to celebrate the GIA Alumni Association Japan’s 25th anniversary. Photo courtesy of Bunkyo Yuno

	Alumni Visits to Asia

	A special thank you to the alumni leaders and members of chapters in   Japan  ,  Korea  and Malaysia for the  exceptional experience of visiting your chapters in M ay. Highlights of this trip include:

Alumni Association Japan (AAJ)’s 25th anniversary, which included a celebratory reception, education seminar and recognition of Ms. Yoshiko Doi for her 40 years of service to GIA Tokyo. More than 100 members of AAJ attended, along with GIA’s Susan Jacques, Seung-Hae Moon, Phil York.

		The Korea chapter elected new leadership, Phil Oh, GIA GG, as president, and re-launched the chapter. I gave a brief alumni update to more than 60 attendees, which included past chapter leaders, alumni and members of the gemstone and jewelry trade in Seoul.

		The Malaysia chapter hosted a luncheon during which I presented an update on GIA education news and alumni benefits. The chapter welcomed new board members and recognized the immediate past president, Yihchen Ng, for his leadership and formation of the chapter in 2011.

 Malaysia Chapter meet-up with GIA Global Alumni Relations Manager Kate Donovan (center, 5th from right), in Kuala Lumpur. Photo courtesy of Kelvin Chow Fook Yoong

	Chapters News

		The following chapters celebrated milestone anniversaries in recent months:

Alumni Association Japan – 25 years

Mexico City – 10 years

Monterrey, Mexico – 1 year

		New chapter leaders were welcomed in Houston, Korea, London, Malaysia and South Florida

 Six industry organizations celebrated “A Night Among Gems” at the Natural History Museum of Los Angeles. Photo courtesy of Gaelen Casey

	Chapter Activities

		Susan Jacques, GIA president and CEO, spoke to members of New Orleans chapter and attendees of the Louisiana Jewelers Association conference in August.

		Synthetic diamonds in the jewelry market remain a primary topic and have been the discussion at five chapter events – Johannesburg, Georgia, San Diego, St. Louis and Manhattan.

		Colored gemstone talks were hosted in London, St. Louis and Washington D.C., featuring Evan Caplan on alexandrite, Renee Newman on exotic gems, and Vincent Pardieu on gems of Madagascar.

		Fancy colored diamond lectures featured speakers Alan Bronstein, in Manhattan and Diana Benoit, in Mexico City. GIA’s Ric Taylor provided education on diamond fluorescence in Johannesburg.

		Updates on gemstone treatments were popular events held by Japan, St. Louis and Wisconsin. The Los Angeles chapter launched the first annual Rossman Caltech Research Lecture. George Rossman, professor of mineralogy at the California Institute of Technology (Caltech), presented research updates and discussed the cause of color in gem materials to 99 attendees. Rossman is also a member of Gems & Gemology editorial review board and is a former GIA Board of Governor.

		Hands-on gemological sessions continue with members of Twin Cities, who are participating in a multi-part 2016 “Year of Corundum” study group.

		Appraisal methodology was taught by appraising professional Bill Hoefer, GIA GG, in Cincinnati and Michigan.

		Jewelry history, design and lapidary talks were held in Manhattan, San Diego, Switzerland and Washington, D.C. presented by known experts Come Remy, Tim Adams, Denise Nelson, Jacqueline Stone and Helen Serras-Herman.

		A Kimberly Process review was presented by Pat Syvrud, executive director of the World Diamond Council (WDC) to Washington D.C.

		A film night featured a screening of the documentary “Sharing the Rough” in Monterrey, Mexico, St. Louis and Vermont.

 Cincinnati’s Summer Social with members of the GIA alumni chapter and AGS guild. Photo courtesy of the Cincinnati chapter

		Business-focused educational events included speakers Molly Clark on social media in Manhattan and Bosco Chow on “Understanding Intellectual Property” in Hong Kong.

		Local networking socials were successful in Cincinnati, Hong Kong and Toronto.

		“A Night Among Gems,” celebrated by the Natural History Museum of Los Angeles gem and mineral collection, welcomed its newly appointed curator, Dr. Aaron Celestian. The evening was organized by the Los Angeles chapter and brought together six industry associations, and more than 175 members and guests.

		Members from across the globe gathered for mixed chapter meet-ups. Canada, Malaysia and Taiwan visited Sri Lanka; Spain and Monterrey, Mexico paired in Las Vegas to host an all alumni event with 80 attendees; Hong Kong, Manhattan and Georgia welcomed visitors at events they hosted and planned around major trade fairs in their area.

		The annual “Gemstone Safari” to visit pearl farms in the Sea of Cortez was a success for Mexico City and included members of Monterrey, Mexico, plus GIA’s Robert Weldon, who  lectured on the “Splendor & Science of Pearls,” a book he co-authored with Dona M. Dirlam, director of the Richard T. Liddicoat Library and Information Center in Carlsbad.

 Mexico’s alumni members went on their annual “Gemstone Safari” to visit pearl farms in the Sea of Cortez, including a hands-on look at mollusks and pearls. Photo courtesy of the GIA Mexico City Alumni Chapter

	The value of the GIA Alumni network and its people is immeasurable. Whether its business relationships, connections for resources, mentorship or a shared affinity for the gems and jewelry that brought us to study at GIA, the benefits and bonds between all graduates is easy to see.

	I hope the education and networking events organized by our chapters inspire you to take action and attend a chapter event in the future. @chapter:47 @chapter:3 @chapter:47


# Publication Year: -
# Title: The Nature of the Be-Nb-Ta Containing Cloud in Natural Madagascar Blue Sapphire – An FIB/HRTEM Study
# Abstract: Detecting beryllium in sapphires and rubies has been a critical test in modern gemological laboratories ever since beryllium-diffusion was discovered as a color-enhancing treatment in the early 2000s. However, beryllium is also occasionally detected in natural untreated corundums, which added complications to beryllium testing during the early days of its implementation. Natural beryllium in sapphire is almost always associated with heavy high field strength elements (HHFSEs) such as niobium, tantalum, and tungsten, and is often unevenly distributed in milky or cloudy regions of a stone. This report is the first investigation on the nature of the nano-inclusions in the milky regions of natural beryllium-bearing sapphires. @chapter:19 @chapter:0 @chapter:19


# Publication Year: 2022
# Title: Extraterrestrial-Like Inclusion in Mozambique Ruby
# Abstract: An extraterrestrial-like inclusion with iridescent color observed in a Mozambique ruby using fiber-optic illumination. Photomicrograph by Nattapat Karava; field of view 6.3 mm.
A 3.03 ct stone submitted to GIA’s Bangkok laboratory was identified as a ruby from Mozambique with no indication of heating. Microscopic examination revealed a hypnotizing inclusion that resembled an extraterrestrial standing among specks of nebulae and waving its hand (see above). It had a large head and very thin legs, with two outstretched hands. This large, eye-visible inclusion was a colorless crystal among the particulate clouds. It showed iridescent color using fiber-optic illumination and was identified by Raman analysis as mica. Mica inclusions in Mozambique rubies usually have a pseudohexagonal shape with fringes (small expansion fractures) and can be found with a rosette pattern around them (“Rubies from the Montepuez area [Mozambique],” GIA Research News, 2013). This is another example of pareidolia observed in gems, the tendency to interpret an inclusion as some other object. @chapter:13 @chapter:0 @chapter:13


# Publication Year: 1985
# Title: The Pearl in the Chicken: Pearl Recipes in Papyrus Holmiensis
# Abstract: There are 75 recipes for the treatment of gemstones in an Egyptian papyrus copied from a work that was compiled about 200 B.C. This includes 10 recipes involving pearls, among which are two that involve feeding the pearl to a chicken. New experiments are described which confirm the validity of one such process. The other eight recipes are discussed briefly. @chapter:55 @chapter:4 @chapter:55


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Report Check - 6214478949
# Abstract: gia report number
6214478949

date of issue
Feb. 16, 2021

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LABORATORY-GROWN DIAMOND REPORT

Laboratory-Grown Diamond Report

REPORT DETAIL

TREATMENT
GROWTH METHOD
COUNTRY OF ORIGIN

Laboratory-Grown Diamond Specification*

Shape and Cutting Style

Describes the shape and Cutting Style.

Round Modified Brilliant

Measurements

Diamond dimensions listed as “minimum diameter – maximum diameter x depth” for round diamonds and “length x width x depth” for fancy-shaped diamonds.

9.65 - 9.72 x 6.34 mm

Carat Weight

Weight given in carats, recorded to the nearest hundredth of a carat. One carat is equal to 1/5 of a gram.

2.00 carat

Color

Includes a color description describing the hue as well as a fancy color grade describing the combined effect of tone and saturation. More generalized description is used for laboratory-grown diamonds.

D

Clarity

The relative absence of inclusions and blemishes.

SI1

PROPORTIONS

Depth

Table-to-culet depth, expressed as a percentage of average girdle diameter for round shapes or width for fancy shapes.

65.5%

Table

Table size expressed as a percentage of a round brilliant’s average girdle diameter for round shapes or width for fancy shapes.

68%

Girdle

Thickness of the intersection of the crown and pavilion which defines the perimeter of the diamond.

Medium to Slightly Thick, Faceted

Culet

Size of the facet at the tip of a gemstone relative to the average diameter for round shapes or width for fancy shapes.

None

FINISH

Polish

Smoothness of the diamond’s surface, assessed on a scale ranging from excellent to poor.

Excellent

Symmetry

Exactness of the diamond’s outline, and the shape, placement, and alignment of its facets, assessed on a scale ranging from excellent to poor.

Excellent

FLUORESCENCE

Fluorescence

Strength and color of the diamond when viewed under long-wave ultraviolet light. A fluorescence description of “none” represents a range of fluorescence from indiscernible to very faint. Used for identification purposes.

Medium Blue

CLARITY CHARACTERISTICS

Clarity Characteristics

List of the most significant clarity characteristics present in the diamond that justifies the clarity grade; a maximum of four characteristics are listed.

Feather, Growth Remnant, Growth Remnant, Growth Remnant, Indented Crystal Surface, Crystal Surface

Key to symbols
Feather
Growth Remnant
Growth Remnant
Growth Remnant
Indented Crystal Surface
Crystal Surface

COMMENTS

Comments

This is a man-made diamond produced by CVD (Chemical Vapor Deposition) growth process and has evidence of post-growth treatments to change the color.

INSCRIPTION(S)

Inscription(s)

GIA 6214478949, LABORATORY-GROWN

*This GIA Laboratory-Grown Diamond Report describes color and clarity specifications on the same scale as the GIA Diamond Grading Report for natural diamonds. The specifications do not correlate to nature’s continuum of rarity. To learn more about laboratory-grown diamonds, including how GIA differentiates them from natural diamonds visit GIA.edu/GIALGDR

Feb. 16, 2021

More information on treatment(s) listed in the report:

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Important Limitations
GIA LGDR results will only be provided via Report Check. All Report Check information is subject to these limitations.

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Learn More About Diamonds

Explore diamond history, research, quality factors, and more in the GIA Gem Encyclopedia.

Read More @chapter:41 @chapter:1 @chapter:41


# Publication Year: 2022
# Title: New Record Size for CVD Laboratory-Grown Diamond
# Abstract: Figure 1. The new record size for CVD laboratory-grown diamond—16.41 ct, with G color and VVS2 clarity—has been achieved by Shanghai Zhengshi Technology Co. Ltd. This is an as-grown diamond; no post-growth treatment was applied for color improvement, either before or after faceting. Photo by Towfiq Ahmed.
Growth technology of single-crystal diamond has advanced significantly in the last two decades for both the high-pressure, high-temperature (HPHT) and chemical vapor deposition (CVD) methods. In addition to many other applications, laboratory-grown diamonds have become an expanding segment of the jewelry industry. Records for crystal size and quality are frequently broken. In this note, GIA’s New York laboratory reports on a new record for CVD laboratory-grown diamond.

	New Record Size for CVD Laboratory-Grown Diamond

Figure 2. Left: The photoluminescence spectrum with 514 nm laser excitation under liquid nitrogen temperature showed typical features of as-grown CVD diamond. Right: In the photoluminescence spectrum with 457 nm laser excitation under liquid nitrogen temperature, weak emissions from the 3H defect and from the 467.6 nm center were recorded.
This square modified brilliant diamond produced by Shanghai Zhengshi Technology Co. Ltd. (figure 1) weighed 16.41 ct and measured 13.97 × 13.87 × 9.56 mm, with G color and VVS2 clarity. The strong graining distributed throughout it created a “wavy” appearance (see the video). In addition, a few tiny pinpoints were present. Absorption spectroscopy in the infrared region revealed this was a typical type IIa diamond. Except for absorptions from the diamond itself, no other defect-related absorption was detected in this region. Photoluminescence spectroscopy collected at liquid nitrogen temperature with 514 nm laser excitation (figure 2, left) showed emissions from NV centers with zero-phonon lines (ZPL) at 575.0 and 637.0 nm with moderate intensities. Clear emissions from SiV– at 736.6 and 736.9 nm were detected. Weak emissions at 596 and 597 nm, which are specific to CVD diamond and also unstable at high temperature, were recorded overlapping with sidebands of the NV0. Photoluminescence spectroscopy with 457 nm laser excitation (figure 2, right) detected weak emissions at 503.5 nm (3H) and 467.6 nm. Similar to the emission at 596 and 597 nm, the 467.6 nm center is CVD-specific and would be annealed out at very high temperature. No emission from the H3 defect was observed. All these spectroscopic features confirmed this was a CVD diamond with no post-growth treatment to improve the color.

Figure 3. Fluorescence imaging with deep short-wave UV excitation showed the typical orange-red fluorescence of as-grown CVD diamond with irregular blue “banding.” Up to seven growth layers were revealed. Image by Stephanie Persaud.

Figure 4. The large CVD diamond showed very strong dislocations under crossed polarizers, the main cause of its wavy appearance. Photo by Stephanie Persaud.
Images collected under deep short-wave UV excitation showed strong orange-red fluorescence with banded blue regions (figure 3). The blue “columns” were nearly perpendicular to the table and extended almost continuously to the pavilion and culet. This feature was consistent with both the strong lattice dislocations observed under the microscope with crossed polarizers (figure 4) and its observable graining. Up to seven growth steps were revealed in the fluorescence and cathodoluminescence images (figure 5), with each layer of similar thickness. This square modified brilliant diamond was faceted with its table face parallel to these layers for maximum weight retention, while keeping excellent proportions and symmetry.

Figure 5. Cathodoluminescence imaging also revealed the seven growth steps. The dark dots in this image are related to the lattice dislocations. Image by Elina Myagkaya.
For CVD growth, this 16.41 ct diamond broke the record previously held by a 14.60 ct diamond (emerald cut, F color, VS2 clarity) produced in India, which surpassed the previous record of 12.75 ct (round brilliant, F color, VVS2 clarity), both reported last year (“IGI certifies world record 14.60 ct lab grown diamond,” IGI GemBlog, August 31, 2021). In comparison, the largest colorless or near-colorless HPHT laboratory-grown diamond is 15.32 ct (cushion cut, H color, I1 clarity); see Summer 2018 Lab Notes, pp. 217–218. The largest laboratory-grown diamond of any kind tested by GIA so far is a 20.23 ct cushion cut (Fancy Vivid yellowish orange, VS2) produced using the HPHT method in 2019. GIA will continue to follow the development of laboratory-grown diamonds to ensure that all are properly identified. @chapter:9 @chapter:1 @chapter:9


# Publication Year: 2021
# Title: Peter Ngumbi (Vter Young)
# Abstract: Gemstone trader Peter Ngumbi examines rough at the sapphire mining area near Garba Tula in northern Kenya. Photo courtesy of Vter Young.

The pandemic has been felt throughout the entire jewelry industry, from the miners who are the first to see gems come out of the ground to the local traders and the end consumers. To get a better understanding of the situation in East Africa, we spoke to Peter Ngumbi, a third-generation Kenyan gemstone trader who sources rough from local markets and directly from the miners (see above). Mr. Ngumbi sells stones from his offices in Nairobi and Voi to visiting international merchants, as well as directly to consumers and hobby cutters via social media. The main focus of his business is garnet, primarily tsavorite. His broad perspective allows us to gain some insights into the East African gemstone scene during 2020.
The Kenyan government was quick to impose actions to contain the virus, such as a ban on interprovincial travel, which allowed for strong control of local outbreaks, and closed its borders to avoid importing cases while implementing a strict curfew. Mask wearing and contact tracing quickly became routine. While these measures affected daily life, they kept COVID-19 rates relatively low. Similar measures were enforced in Rwanda and Uganda with positive results.
The situation is vastly different in the neighboring country of Tanzania, where the existence of COVID-19 is officially denied and many people are losing friends and relatives. This has significantly impacted local production, which fluctuates heavily. Areas like Mahenge produce almost no material, while material is abundant in other areas because foreign buyers are no longer present.
Even though the local Kenyan restrictions were strong, Mr. Ngumbi notes some positive aspects. Most foreign buyers were forced to leave the country, and many of the local buyers were hesitant to invest large sums in the gem trade during these economically uncertain times. Suddenly he had access to larger volumes of stones with only a fraction of the usual buying public. On top of that, he returned from the 2020 Tucson shows and saw some exceptional tsavorite production, which allowed him to replenish depleted stock.
Normally, Mr. Ngumbi travels regularly to other countries in the region such as Rwanda, Malawi, Mozambique, and Tanzania to source rough. Since he has done this for many years, he has a strong network in these countries, which he relied on heavily during times of limited travel.
He feels that many traders have dramatically expanded their network into source countries over the last decade and are now relying on these established, trusted connections to supply them with rough remotely.
While this was an excellent opportunity for African traders to buy rough, selling was not so rose-colored. No foreign traders came to the continent to source rough. Luckily, many of the African rough traders had established an online presence, which compensated for the decreased in-person sales. Mr. Ngumbi estimates that he sold more than three times the value he usually sells through social media, adding that the public has fully accepted this method of buying. In fact, customers in the United States were so hungry for rough that he could not keep up with orders. This includes some regular customers he sees at trade shows or in his Nairobi office, but a significant portion are unknown buyers he has never met in person. A growing number of online customers are independent jewelers who source their rough as close to the mine as possible and have it cut by contracted cutters.
Artisanal mining was also impacted by COVID-19. Kenyan authorities suspended mining operations where more than 20 people were working to avoid large gatherings. This only lasted for a few months, although it was strictly enforced by officials. These temporary suspensions affected the amount of material available in the market, but keep in mind that the number of buyers was also significantly reduced due to the absence of foreigners. Once the mining restrictions were lifted, there was an influx of artisanal miners trying their luck. This resulted in increased availability of rough in the local markets compared to other years. Availability was balanced out toward the end of the year by the reopening of international borders and the return of foreign buyers with a strong desire for rough.
In summary, the pandemic has had varying effects on the trading situation in East Africa, with local regulations having a major impact on the local supply and access to that material. The absence of foreign buyers has augmented the supply of available rough in the markets, while COVID-19 has locally disrupted production by artisanal and small-scale miners. The combined effect of this could turn out positive in some regions, while other areas are adversely affected. @chapter:49 @chapter:3 @chapter:49


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Dona Dirlam
# Abstract: Dona Dirlam’s playthings of choice growing up in Minnesota were a collection of Oregon agates. Pursuing this hobby led to a master’s degree in geology and geophysics and a position as a geology and earth science teacher in Madison, Wisconsin. Yet her interest in gems never wavered, and when she heard about GIA’s degree programs, she moved to Santa Monica to pursue her GG. Thus began a lifelong affiliation between Dirlam and GIA that has changed the face of the Institute’s library and research resources.

Upon completion of her GG in 1979, Dirlam was encouraged by Dr. Vincent Manson to work as a diamond grader until a position in research became available. While she waited, she made such use of the Institute’s library that she caught the attention of Richard Liddicoat, who was seeking someone with a background in gemology, geology and teaching to revamp the Institute’s library. He found a willing and able candidate in Dirlam, who assumed her new responsibilities as GIA’s librarian in July 1980. Since December 1995, she has been director of the Richard T. Liddicoat Gemological Library and Information Center, which under her leadership became the world’s largest and most prestigious library of its kind.

Among Dirlam’s successes during her tenure with the Institute were the 1987 acquisition of the 14,000-volume John & Marjorie Sinkankas Gemological Library, a negotiation that took four years to complete. She tirelessly lectured on gemological subjects and served as abstracts editor of Gems & Gemology from 1981 to 1994. She also serves as the secretary of the Geo-Literary Society. To date, Dirlam has also coauthored 11 articles for the journal, five of which received a G&G Most Valuable Article award. Her contributions to both GIA and the field of gemology led to widespread accolades, including the 1989 Outstanding Gemologist Award from the Association of Women Gemologists and GIA’s Staff of the Year in 1991. GIA selected her for its highest honor, the Richard T. Liddicoat Distinguished Achievement Award, in 2004.

Under Dirlam’s 34-year leadership, the library has expanded from a 2,000-book installation to a state-of-the-art facility. Over 16,000 books and 1,800 videos are in circulation, along with CD-ROMs, audio CDs, and subscriptions to over 230 periodicals in numerous languages, with access provided to students, staff, and the general public. The Cartier Archives and Rare Book Repository Collections, which houses the Sinkankas collection, has expanded from an initial 14,000 books to 41,000 resources. The Visual Resources Library, also maintained by the Carlsbad library, contains over 143,000 images and assets to enhance the Institute’s course and publication materials. Dona Dirlam’s groundbreaking efforts on behalf of the Institute’s research, education, and outreach capabilities have kept GIA at the forefront of gemological scholarship. @chapter:34 @chapter:0 @chapter:34


# Publication Year: 1994
# Title: Gem Corundum in Alkali Basalt: Origin and Occurrence
# Abstract: Many deposits of gem corundum are associated with alkali basalt. Best known are the occurrences in Southeast Asia (especially Thailand) and Australia, which are responsible for much of the sapphire and fancy sapphire on the world market today. Yet alkali basalts are relatively uncommon, and corundum deposits are found only in those alkali basalts that occur in association with subduction zones involving ocean-continent plate collisions. This article offers a new hypothesis for the relationship between this rock type and gem corundum. It suggests that gem corundum is formed when certain rocks—such as shales, laterites, or bauxites, with aluminum-rich minerals—are subducted to depths of about 50 km, where metamorphism converts the minerals into corundum and other products that the alkali basalts later carry to the surface. The potential for new deposits is considered. @chapter:2 @chapter:0 @chapter:2


# Publication Year: 2011
# Title: Dyed Purple Hydrophane Opal
# Abstract: Opals with an unusual purple bodycolor and strong play-of-color have recently appeared in the market. Reportedly from a new deposit in Mexico, they have a vivid bodycolor unlike that of any natural play-of-color opal seen in the trade so far. This alone was enough to raise suspicion, and gemological and spectroscopic evidence indicates that the purple coloration is artificial. A comparison of this purple opal with numerous samples from Ethiopia’s Wollo Province strongly suggests that it is actually dyed hydrophane opal from those deposits. Several previously undocumented characteristics of Wollo opals are described, including zeolite mineral inclusions. @chapter:48 @chapter:0 @chapter:48


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Adapting to Changing Workplaces: GIA Offers Employment Insight
# Abstract: Sonia Chaves, GIA manager of talent acquisition, greeted possible candidates at the 2018 GIA Jewelry Career Fair in New York.

There was a great deal of talk about the need for the gem and jewelry industry to adapt to the changing workforce and changing consumer attitudes at the recent GIA International Gemological Symposium.
Julia Popovich, GIA career services advisor and Peter Harts, GIA manager of career services, offer some tips on how companies can adapt to meet those needs and issues.
“We are still a traditional industry in the way we hire. Many companies take a classical approach when looking for candidates and prefer word of mouth referrals to a blind job posting,” Harts said. “However, more and more companies, large and small, are recognizing the need to make their presence better known in the marketplace.”

The opening panel “Job Success in Today’s Market” offered 2018 Career Fair attendees insight and advice. From left: Jennifer Wilson, GIA senior vice president and general counsel; Joel Schechter, executive vice president at Richline Group, Inc.; recent GIA graduate Fallon Bock, a diamond quality specialist at Leo Schachter Diamond Group; Greg Kwiat, chief executive officer at Kwiat & Fred Leighton; and Wendy Brandes, owner and president of Wendy Brandes Jewelry.
Popovich adds that, “As social media becomes more prevalent, we are seeing an increase in companies looking for candidates to bring non-traditional skills, such as digital marketing, in addition to traditional office administrative skills when filling new openings.”
Employers are also using new methods to introduce themselves to potential employees and find the ones who will be the best fit for their workforce.
“With the emergence of technology, we are seeing new ways in which companies are building their brand awareness and acquiring talent,” Hart said. “GIA is at the forefront of this trend with its Gem and Jewelry Career Center. This online job board – exclusively for the jewelry industry – is free for job seekers and employers, and offers powerful features to speed up the search for qualified candidates, in one easy to navigate location. Other industry organizations are following suit and have their own online, industry-specific job boards as well.”

Danielle Barber, creative director at Suna Bros. Inc., meeting with an attendee at GIA’s New York Jewelry Career Fair in 2018.
In terms of the types of jobs available, the GIA career services team stresses that because millennials are taking a keen interest in period, estate and older jewelry pieces, there is an increased need for appraisers across the country and a new interest in evaluators and authenticators for older pieces.
There is also a need for those who create jewelry, either with new technology or traditional methods, Popovich said.
“Technology is also changing how we design and produce jewelry, which requires many new skill sets,” Popovich said. “The demand for computer-assisted design and manufacturing (CAD/CAM) expertise has increased due to the availability and cost effectiveness of new technologies and their impact on production efficiencies. This trend is industry wide, from independent retailers, large brands and private label manufactures. In addition, demand for bench jewelers is up, across all sectors of production, and expected to grow in 2019.”

The cutting-edge GIA Jewelry Design & Technology Program includes Zbrush, which makes it possible for student designers to digitally sculpt their jewelry ideas and create stone settings using GIA-developed digital brushes. Zbrush is also taught in GIA’s CAD/CAM courses.
Beyond technology, there is a trend toward U.S. jewelry manufacturers bringing operations back to this country as younger consumers take a much greater interest in sustainability and ethical sourcing. Attention to these issues is critical to both attracting them as new employees and as consumers of gems and jewelry.
All this said, technology enhances traditional skills to make companies more productive, so there is still a strong need for those jobs in our industry.
Top job postings on GIA’s Gem and Jewelry Board include:

Sales Associate
CAD/CAM (Technician/Operator/Designer)
Quality Assurance Specialist and Evaluator (Gemstones, Diamonds, Finished Jewelry)
Bench Jeweler (Production and Independent)

GIA holds annual Jewelry Career Fairs in Carlsbad, New York and London. For more information visit https://www.gia.edu/career-fair.
This article originally appeared in Diamond District Monthly’s February edition. @chapter:45 @chapter:3 @chapter:45


# Publication Year: 2019
# Title: Rare Faceted Parisite
# Abstract: This 1.33 ct brownish orange pear-shaped brilliant cut is the first faceted parisite GIA has examined. Photo by Robison McMurtry.

Recently the Carlsbad laboratory received a 1.33 ct transparent brownish orange pear brilliant for identification service (see above). Standard gemological testing revealed a refractive index from 1.670–1.750 with a birefringence of 0.080 and a specific gravity (obtained hydrostatically) of 4.40. There was no fluorescence observed with exposure to long- or short-wave UV light. The stone also appeared doubly refractive when examined with polarized light. Microscopic examination with a fiber-optic light source showed strong doubling, two-phase fingerprints with trapped liquid and gas, and crystal inclusions. Raman and mid-IR spectroscopy conclusively identified the stone as parisite-Ce. The Raman spectrum displayed the strongest vibrational band at 1083 cm–1, and subsequent peaks at 1740, 1567, 1431, 741, 398, and 269 cm–1, which positively identified the mineral. The mid-IR spectrum revealed areas of rare earth element (REE) absorption. Energy-dispersive X-ray fluorescence (EDXRF) analysis detected Ce, La, and Ca, supporting this identification.
Parasite is one of the rare-earth carbonite minerals found in the bastnäsite group, with a chemical formula of Ca(Ce,La,Nd)2(CO3)3F2. Parisite crystals are found in carbonatites, granite pegmatites, alkaline syenites, and hydrothermal deposits associated with these environments. Normally the crystals of parisite are too small and cloudy to produce decent gemstones. They are usually found as mineral inclusions in emerald from the Muzo mine in Colombia and in quartz from Zagi Mountain, Pakistan. This is the first time a faceted parisite gem has been examined by GIA. @chapter:15 @chapter:0 @chapter:15


# Publication Year: 2024
# Title: The US jewelry market is sluggish. (Weekly news 5 – 9 February 2024)
# Abstract: the market research data provided by Tenoris regarding the jewelry trade in the United States during the late December 2023 festive season compared to the same period in 2022:

1. Jewelry sales in the United States showed a growth rate of 0.3%, and consumer spending on jewelry increased by 1.6% on average during the period, indicating a positive trend in the market.

2. Sales of Specialty Jewelry stores grew by only 0.1%, attributed to a market trend shifting towards "less for more," where consumers reduce the quantity of jewelry purchased but increase the average spending. This trend is believed to be influencing consumer behavior.

3. Overall, finished jewelry sales grew by 1.1%, but bridal jewelry sales saw a decrease of 11.2%, indicating a shift in consumer preferences within the jewelry sector.

4. Gold jewelry sales and volume increased by 16% and 12% respectively, marking growth across all types of jewelry. Gold bracelet sales grew by 17%, with growth seen in all price ranges. Products in the $20,000 - $50,000 range saw a 36% growth, and those in the $250 - $500 range grew by 11%.

However, Tenoris notes that the overall data for the year 2023 shows a declining trend in the United States jewelry market, with a sales decrease of 5.8% as follows:

1. Finished jewelry sales decreased in both value and volume by 3.9% and 4% respectively, mainly attributed to reduced trade in fashion jewelry and bridal jewelry.

2. Diamond jewelry sales saw a decrease in both value and volume by 2.8% and 3.5% respectively. Natural diamond jewelry sales and volume decreased by 4.8% and 5.9% respectively, while lab-grown diamond jewelry sales and volume increased significantly by 40.6% and 56.2% respectively.

Consumer interest in jewelry has declined due to the uncertain economic situation in the United States, which is believed to be the root cause of the "less for more" trend where consumers reduce the quantity of jewelry purchased but increase their average spending per purchase. Consumers in the United States are redirecting their spending towards increased tourism activities. There's a growing tendency among consumers to prioritize the "value" of jewelry products.

Tenoris indicates significant trends in the U.S. jewelry market in 2023 that are expected to continue into 2024:

1. Potential growth in the middle-market consumer segment.
2. Growing saturation in lab-grown diamond jewelry, while lower-priced lab-grown diamonds are expected to remain popular.
3. Continued growth in gold jewelry preferences.
4. The stability of consumer demand for products in the $1,500 - $5,000 price range, accounting for 36% of sales in 2023. Products in the $5,000 - $10,000 range accounted for 14%, and those in the $750 - $1,500 range accounted for 17% of sales in 2023. @chapter:32 @chapter:3 @chapter:32


# Publication Year: 2018
# Title: Gemological Analysis of Lightbox CVD-Grown “White” Diamonds
# Abstract: Figure 1. The 0.26 ct near-colorless CVD-grown diamond (left) has an internal inscription showing the Lightbox logo, composed of dual narrow lines. The logo is easily detected with a microscope (center) and clearly visible in the DiamondView image (right), in which the red fluorescence is due to nitrogen-vacancy centers. Also seen in the DiamondView image are subtle striations, additional evidence of the CVD origin. The outer square of the Lightbox logo measures 300 microns on each side. Photos by Robison McMurtry (left) and Sally Eaton-Magaña (center and right).
Lightbox, a De Beers company, has begun selling “white,” pink, and blue CVD laboratory-grown diamonds at a flat rate of $800 per carat. Through a third-party vendor, we recently had the opportunity to examine two such samples (0.24 and 0.26 ct) intended for setting in a pair of earrings. Both were near-colorless with color grades equivalent to G color and cut grades of Excellent and Very Good, respectively.
Both lab-grown diamonds had very few clarity characteristics. The 0.24 ct sample had a pinpoint in a bezel facet, and the 0.26 ct round (figure 1, left) had a feather in a star facet, both with VVS clarity. However, the grade-setting feature for both was the Lightbox logo, internally inscribed underneath the table facet (figure 1, center). As a result of the Lightbox mark, the clarity grade for both was reduced to VS. The laser-inscribed internal feature is reportedly made using technology developed by Opsydia (Gem and Jewellery Export Promotion Council, “De Beers to use Opsydia’s laser tech to inscribe lab-grown diamonds in Lightbox Jewelry,” https://www.gjepc.org/news_detail.php?id=4075). It is composed of dual narrow lines ~2.5 microns wide with a total area of 300 × 300 microns, positioned about 200 microns below the table surface.
Spectroscopic analysis showed both samples had very similar features that were consistent with previously analyzed CVD products from other manufacturers. IR absorption spectroscopy confirmed these samples as type IIa with no detectible single nitrogen at 1344 cm–1. Photoluminescence (PL) spectra showed that both had the 596/597 nm doublet, indicating that they were as-grown and not subjected to post-growth HPHT processing (S. Eaton-Magaña and J.E. Shigley, “Observations on CVD-grown synthetic diamonds: A review,” Fall 2016 G&G, pp. 222–245). Faceted, as-grown near-colorless CVD samples are less common since most manufacturers grow CVD layers quickly, but with a brown color, knowing that they can be HPHT treated to improve color appearance after growth. Approximately 75% of the CVD material in this color range examined by GIA has been HPHT treated after growth (S. Eaton-Magaña, “Summary of CVD lab-grown diamonds seen at the GIA laboratory,” Fall 2018 G&G, pp. 269–270).

Figure 2. This 514 nm PL spectrum collected on the 0.26 ct sample at liquid nitrogen temperature shows strong nitrogen vacancy centers at 575 and 637 nm and the 596/597 nm doublet, evidence of an as-grown CVD sample.
Through crossed polarizers, we observed very low birefringence compared with the majority of CVD-grown diamonds examined. Additionally, both samples showed very strong emission from nitrogen-vacancy centers by PL spectroscopy (figure 2), as well as visible red fluorescence using DiamondView imaging (figure 1, right), but there was no detectable fluorescence with long-wave UV. With careful DiamondView imaging, subtle CVD striations were visible through the table facet. In the DiamondView images, there were no apparent growth interfaces showing multiple growth events, and no apparent seed crystal remnants were observed. Also, PL spectroscopy of both samples showed very weak but detectable silicon-vacancy centers at 736.6/736.9 nm.
The Lightbox CVD lab-grown diamonds, due to their price point and manufacturer, will likely be highly visible in the trade. The pink and blue samples, as evidenced by De Beers’ literature, have an appearance that is unusual among natural-color diamonds and are unlikely to ever be perceived as a natural-color product. However, the colorless Lightbox samples are readily identifiable as CVD-grown diamonds by spectroscopic techniques, DiamondView imaging, and their distinctive internal inscription. @chapter:36 @chapter:1 @chapter:36


# Publication Year: 2009
# Title: Update on Ammolite Production from Southern Alberta, Canada
# Abstract: There have been a number of changes in Ammolite production from southern Alberta, Canada, since 2001. Korite International continues to be the dominant supplier, with a 40% increase in finished-stone production during this period. As mining focuses on Zone 4 of the host Bearpaw Formation, Korite’s inventory has changed from predominantly fractured to sheet Ammolite. The Aurora Ammolite mine, operated by Rusty Pimm Enterprises, is the only other fully mechanized open-pit mine, but artisanal miners continue to be active. Dinolite—Ammolite combined with siliceous dinosaur bone—has been introduced as yet another innovative use for Ammolite.

	DATA DEPOSITORY

Additional Photos
	Fall, 2009 @chapter:4 @chapter:0 @chapter:4


# Publication Year: 2012
# Title: Cultured Pearl Farming and Production in the Federated States of Micronesia
# Abstract: The current production of cultured pearls from the black-lipped pearl oyster (Pinctada margaritifera) in the Federated States of Micronesia (FSM) includes mostly beaded as well as blister and nonbead-cultured pearls in a wide array of colors. Pearl farming is carried out on four islands, with plans for commercial production in the near future. The sector is envisaged as a model for economic development and marine conservation. To successfully compete in the marketplace, pearl farmers in the FSM should focus on producing high-quality cultured pearls and explore market differentiation strategies such as the “Micronesian Blue” product. Gemologically, the FSM cultured pearls are indistinguishable from those of French Polynesia that are produced using the same mollusk species. @chapter:11 @chapter:4 @chapter:11


# Publication Year: 2022
# Title: Large Green and Yellow Diamonds Colored by Nickel Impurities
# Abstract: Figure 1. Large gem diamonds with strong color saturations resulting from nickel-related impurities. Top: 5.02 ct Fancy Intense green-yellow cushion. Bottom left: 5.03 ct Fancy yellow-green pear. Bottom right: 5.06 ct Fancy Intense green-yellow pear. Photos by Diego Sanchez.
Diamonds colored by nickel impurities were previously thought to only occur in lower carat weights and with weaker color saturations. However, the Carlsbad laboratory recently received several large examples with strongly saturated color. Among the stones examined, a Fancy Intense green-yellow cushion weighing 5.02 ct, a Fancy yellow-green pear weighing 5.03 ct, and a Fancy Intense green-yellow pear weighing 5.06 ct were the most notable (figure 1).

Figure 2. Vis-NIR spectra collected from each diamond show a strong asymmetrical absorption band around 670 nm along with a distinct peak at 883 nm. These defects together, with the lack of any other color-causing defects, indicate that nickel is the main cause of color.
Gemologically, these diamonds were mostly free of inclusions except for faint internal graining and small reflective platelets. Along with natural inclusions, FTIR spectra showed that all three stones were type IaA, confirming that these are naturally mined diamonds and not of synthetic origin. Vis-NIR spectra revealed an asymmetrical absorption band around 670 nm and a notable peak at 883 nm for all three (figure 2). These features in the UV-Vis-NIR strongly suggest that the color is caused by the presence of nickel-related defects.
Previously, the largest and most intensely colored gem diamonds reported to have been colored by nickel defects were a 2.54 ct Fancy Light greenish yellow diamond (see Fall 2013 Lab Notes, pp. 173–174) and a 2.81 ct Fancy Intense yellowish green diamond (W. Wang et al., “Natural type Ia diamond with green-yellow color due to Ni-related defects,” Fall 2007 G&G, pp. 240–243).
The stones described in the present report are nearly twice as large and have significantly more saturated hues. Therefore, it appears that nickel-colored diamonds can occur over a wider range of sizes and color saturations than previously suspected. @chapter:22 @chapter:1 @chapter:22


# Publication Year: -
# Title: G&G Celebrates 80 Years: A Photo Tour
# Abstract: View Gallery

Can’t make it to Carlsbad? GIA photographer Kevin Schumacher captured the spirit of an exhibit that celebrates 80 years of Gems & Gemology in the photo gallery above. Explore “The Beauty of Science” – featuring the iconic gem, jewelry, mineral and sculpture photographs by Harold and Erica Van Pelt – through this photo tour. @chapter:33 @chapter:2 @chapter:33


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Books: 21st-Century Jewellery Designers
# Abstract: By Juliet Weir-de La Rochefoucauld, 359 pp., illus., Antique Collectors Club, Woodbridge, UK, 2013. US$95.00

                      In this volume, Juliet Weir-de La Rochefoucauld presents highlights from a selection of international contemporary jewelry designers. This hefty opus represents a sort of sequel to the publisher’s Celebrating Jewellery (Bennett and Mascetti, 2012), this time with an eye toward the future of jewelry.

This remarkably illustrated coffee table book prominently displays more than 540 jewelry pieces from 25 of today’s important designers. After a short chapter featuring some of the finest works of the French artist JAR, the author takes the reader on an inspired journey. Twenty sections display the iconic pieces of Kaoru Kay Akihara, Walid Akkad, Lorenz Baumer, Bhagat, Sevan Bicakci, Luz Camino, Wallace Chan, Edmond Chin, Lydia Courteille, Michele Della Valle, Patrice Fabre, James de Givenchy, Vicente Gracia, Hemmerle, Anna Hu, Michelle Ong, Susanne Syz, Nicholas Varney, Stephen Webster, Dickson Yewn, as well as the work of “newcomers” Rami Abboud, Tomasz Donocik, LaMouche, and 10 Royale. The cultural diversity of this ensemble is truly remarkable.

Each section contains a brief background for each designer, along with their diverse creative sources of inspiration, including a list of their favorite themes and motifs. Numerous detailed photos illustrate beautifully how these themes translate into jewelry. Pieces of exceptional craftsmanship are displayed using front-and-back photos. Weir-de La Rochefoucauld gives significant insights into their creative processes and details technical aspects of their jewelry making. Some of the most valuable comments pertain to the innovative materials and techniques used by the designers, including titanium, ceramic, cement, laser welding, and CAD/CAM. The artists also discuss their favorite gemstones and cuts. The book sheds a stimulating light on the use of alternative materials such as wood, leather, ivory mammoth, animal teeth, or old cameos; the choice of bold color and material contrasts to create striking pieces.

In spite of their different sources, the photo renderings are consistent throughout the book. Some of the photos are so sharp that the reader gains a sense of the heft and smoothness of the piece. Gemstone inclusions, special carvings, and jewelry techniques such as micro mosaic, enameling, and special settings, are artfully depicted.

One of this book’s strongest assets is to place the designers and their creations in their artistic and cultural context. Two sections, those on Sevan Bicakci and Wallace Chan, are particularly captivating from both a technical and aesthetic standpoint. The former highlights a rare level of craftsmanship in enameling and stone cutting and the creation of unique rings that celebrate the rich cultural heritage of Bicakci’s native Istanbul. In the latter section, Chan, nicknamed the “Zen Philosopher,” has mastered the use of titanium; he has also invented a way to carve jadeite into a four-prong setting in order to set a precious stone into this matrix. Many of his jewelry pieces refer to some aspects and practices of Buddhism, creating an effect reminiscent of classic Chinese art.

From an aesthetic standpoint, Lydia Courteille and Nicholas Varney stand out for their use of gemstone materials to create unique combinations. Courteille has embraced classic cameos and figurative gem carvings in creating whimsical multicolor cocktail rings, while Varney has mastered the art of incorporating irregular pearls of all shapes into asymmetrical oversized pieces.

One might regret that the selection criteria of these designers are never explained. Were they chosen by generation, prominence, awards won, technical innovation, or auction appeal? One could also fault the unimaginative alphabetical order of presenting them. A thematic arrangement could have provided some interesting comparisons and meaningful conclusions. The alphabetical arrangement also gives way to the repetition of clichés, such as the search for perfection, the need for control over jewelry making, and how each artist is unmistakably guided by their love of the material.

Also, gemologists will note the mention of the species versubianite, presumably a typo for vesuvianite. New Yorkers will quickly catch that LaGuardia Airport is, according to this book, located in New Jersey.

A more basic criticism is that almost no reference is made to actual jewelry size. Since the jewelry designers themselves provided the documentation for this book, these details were probably available. Similarly, no mention is made of photo magnifications, which differ from one page to the next.

With that noted, this luxurious book provides a great source of inspiration for all jewelry scholars, collectors, and professionals at large for envisioning the future trends of the industry. The quality of the photos is an exceptional asset to that end. @chapter:20 @chapter:2 @chapter:20


# Publication Year: 2010
# Title: A Study of the Gems in Ciborium from Einsiedeln Abbey
# Abstract: The gemstones that adorn a late-16th-century ciborium from Einsiedeln Abbey in Einsiedeln, Switzerland, were investigated by nondestructive gemological methods and EDXRF and Raman spectroscopy at the Collections Center of the Swiss National Museum. The ciborium is decorated with 17 colored stones: 10 almandine garnets, four grossular garnets, and three sapphires. Inclusions in the sapphires and a historic description of the piece suggest a Sri Lankan origin for the gems.

	DATA DEPOSITORY

Semiquantitative Analysis
Raman Spectra
	January 14, 2011 @chapter:4 @chapter:0 @chapter:4


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Synthetic Diamonds: Improved Quality and Identification Challenges
# Abstract: CVD synthetic diamonds produced by Gemesis. The 0.39 ct. round brilliant on the left was graded F color and VVS2 clarity; the 0.83 ct. sample on the right was graded J color and VVS2 clarity. Image © GIA.

                      Colorless synthetic diamonds produced by Chemical Vapor Deposition (CVD) are becoming more common in the market. CVD-processed stones are much different from the natural diamonds produced by geologic forces. They are also vastly different from the High Pressure, High Temperature (HPHT) synthetics that have been manufactured since the mid-1950s.

CVD synthetic diamonds began appearing in the gem diamond market about a decade ago. The process involves introducing a gas, such as methane, into a vacuum chamber, then activating and breaking down the molecules of the gas with microwaves. This causes the carbon atoms to accumulate on a substrate (a small platform containing a flat diamond seed crystal, usually an HPHT synthetic), similar to the way snowflakes accumulate in a snowfall.

The HPHT method, first used to successfully grow diamonds by General Electric in 1954, essentially mimics the natural process - carbon is crystallized as diamond through intense heat and pressure deep within the Earth. The HPHT process is very costly, given the energy and equipment required, and produces diamonds with mainly yellowish or brownish yellow colors.

The CVD method is much less costly because it works at moderate temperatures and low pressure, which requires smaller and less expensive equipment. Because the vacuum chamber contains only carbon and some hydrogen, colorless crystals can be grown. If nitrogen or boron is introduced into the chamber, yellow or blue synthetic diamond crystals can be produced.

At first, the creators of these CVD diamonds thought they would be able to produce diamonds quickly and cheaply. However, because the quality was inconsistent and the typical brown colors were less than desirable, those expectations were not met.

In the past decade, CVD producers have found that changing the gases in the growth chamber and using a purer Type II synthetic diamond as a seed crystal can improve the color of the finished synthetic diamond and speed the growth rates. Since many early CVDs had a brownish color, producers also found that treating the material at high temperatures and pressures can remove the brown coloration to make the crystals colorless. This treatment step masked some of the signature features, which resulted in the identification of these synthetic diamonds becoming more difficult.

The Gemesis Corporation of Sarasota, Florida, which produced its earlier synthetic diamonds with the HPHT-process, began to market colorless CVD synthetic diamonds in March 2012. There are several other companies which also sell CVDs.

GIA researchers purchased 16 CVD diamonds from Gemesis, 15 of them cut into round brilliants, ranging from 0.24 carats to 0.86 carats. The majority had very high colors, ranging F-G on the GIA 4Cs scale. Three were I-J. The largest, at 0.90 carats, was a rectangle cut graded L, since it showed a slight yellowish cast.

The researchers, led by Dr. Wuyi Wang, GIA’s director of research and development, subjected these synthetic diamonds to an extensive battery of tests. The tests included several sophisticated types of spectral analysis to obtain a telltale “signature” of samples created by the CVD process. By using advanced instrumentation, scientists can read the diamonds’ spectral signature to determine their composition, or whether they originated in nature or a laboratory. The GIA researchers also conducted standard gemological tests, including checking for features known to be diagnostic for other synthetic diamonds, such as graining patterns and ultraviolet fluorescence reactions. Diamonds have a grain, like wood, that is a result of the way they crystallize, but because they grow differently in nature than in a lab, the grain patterns of synthetic diamonds are different.

The GIA tests found that the quality of colorless to near-colorless CVD-grown diamonds has improved significantly in the decade since they were introduced. In the past, CVD synthetics displayed graining patterns not found in natural diamonds, as well as distinctive fluorescence reactions. These samples showed that separating such stones from natural diamonds requires the use of advanced spectroscopic techniques. In addition, it was apparent that the synthetics were treated under high heat to remove or obscure some of their telltale features, such as graining which, after treatment, is very difficult to see.

Despite the difficulty in spotting these stones by conventional means, GIA researchers did find unique spectroscopic signatures. They did so by subjecting photoluminescence and ultraviolet fluorescence reactions to the DiamondView™, a sophisticated instrument used by gemological labs to detect synthetic diamonds.

GIA continues to make synthetic diamonds a top research priority so it can identify and report on the latest developments of these lab-created stones. @chapter:9 @chapter:1 @chapter:9


# Publication Year: 2004
# Title: Fall 2004 Gem News International
# Abstract: Diamonds
	            An Untreated Type Ib Diamond Exhibiting Green Transmission
Colored Stones and Organic Materials
	            Gem Amphiboles from Afghanistan, Pakistan, and Myanmar
	            Recent Gem Beryl Production in Finland
	            Hessonite from Afghanistan
	            Interesting Abalone Pearls
	            Rhodonite of Facet and Cabochon Quality from Brazil
	            Spessartine and Almandine-Spessartine from Afghanistan
	            Gem Tourmaline from Congo
Synthetics and Simulants
	            Dyed Horn as an Amber Imitation
	            Fake Inclusions in Quartz, “Made in Brazil”
Treatments
	            Dyed Cultured Pearls Fading on Exposure to Heat
Miscellaneous
	            Masterpieces of American Jewelry Exhibition
Announcements
	            G&G Beryllium Diffusion Article Wins AGS Liddicoat Journalism Award
	            Visit Gems & Gemology in Tucson
Exhibits
	            Pearls at the Royal Ontario Museum
	            Carnegie Gem & Mineral Show
	            Mineralien Hamburg
Conferences
	            Rapaport International Diamond Conference 2004
	            CGA Gemmology Conference 2004
	            Pegmatites at GSA
	            Antwerp Diamond Conference
	            Diamond Synthesis and History
	            GemmoBasel 2005

To view the full section, download the PDF above.

	DATA DEPOSITORY

Table 1: Slices
Table 2: Crystals (Blue to Green)
	Submitted by Brendan M. Laurs
	Fall 2004 @chapter:16 @chapter:0 @chapter:16


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Make the Most of Opportunities
# Abstract: Michael O'Connor shared his experiences and offered tips for success in the industry during the opening panel at GIA's Carlsbad Career Fair in 2009. Photo by Kevin Schumacher/GIA

                      Michael O’Connor, a jewelry and style expert known as the “King of Bling” at Hollywood’s red carpet events, offered this advice the 2009 Career Fair in Carlsbad.

Seize the opportunity. “I think all of us are presented with opportunities in our life we have to seize in order to get ahead,” he said. “Sometimes those opportunities are not really presenting them themselves as opportunities,” but as obstacles you need to take advantage of

He recalled his own experiences in the industry as an example: stumbling into his first job in a jewelry store while on an errand for his father, then moving from jewelry designer to merchandiser and marketer for one of the largest bridal jewelry manufacturers in the country.

Soon after, his boss wanted to get the brand on celebrities and have it talked about it on TV and O’Connor found himself in front of the camera doing more and more red carpet events because, he said, that’s what people wanted to hear about.

He said he gets the celebrity to talk about jewelry by saying, “You look great tonight. Close your eyes. If you can take anything home tonight (because I know this is all going back tomorrow), what is it going to be?”

It’s always about the jewelry, he said. “The jewelry is what America wants to hear about. They don’t want to hear about another red chiffon gown. They want to hear about the million dollar necklace. They want to hear about the diamonds, the rubies and the gemstones. They want to hear about the metal they are set in. That’s what really provides glamour to these people.”

O’Connor also had advice for people who want to get their jewelry on celebrities. “It’s a triad,” he said. “You’ve got to have the right product, you have to do a lot of hard work and you have to seize the opportunities that present themselves.”

“All of these opportunities are there for you to take,” he said. “They don’t always have to be opportunities that you’re going to know 100 percent about. Don’t be afraid to take a leap of faith.”

	O'Connor also offered personalized advice to job seekers during Career Fair's one-on-one coaching sessions. Photo by Kevin Schumacher/GIA @chapter:45 @chapter:3 @chapter:45


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Fancy Color Diamond Quality Factors
# Abstract: This 10.12 ct Fancy Vivid yellow pear shape illustrates the effect a fancy shape can have on intensifying the color in a yellow diamond. - Courtesy the Scarselli Family

Color
In diamonds, rarity equals value. With diamonds in the normal range, value is based on the absence of color, because colorless diamonds are the rarest. With fancy color diamonds—the ones outside the normal color range—the rarest and most valuable colors are saturated pinks, blues, and greens. In all cases, even very slight color differences can have a big impact on value.

Compared to fancy yellows and browns, diamonds with a noticeable hint of any other hue are considerably more rare. Even in light tones and weak saturation, as long as they show color in the face-up position, they qualify as fancy colors. Red, green, and blue diamonds with medium to dark tones and moderate saturations are extremely rare.

Grading fancy color diamonds is complex and specialized, and it takes highly trained laboratory graders to complete the process accurately.

The GIA system for color-grading fancy color diamonds is designed to accommodate the fact that not all colored diamonds have the same depth of color. For example, yellow diamonds occur in a wide range of saturations, while blue diamonds do not.

	Fancy color diamonds have a range of color strength with the intense and vivid colored diamonds being the most rare.
Diamonds with red or reddish colors are extremely rare and highly valued. Pure pinks are more popular than diamonds that are purplish, orangy, brownish, or grayish. Trade professionals market some very attractive stones in this category as “rose-colored,” and some stones with purplish tints as “mauve” diamonds.

Blue diamonds are extremely rare. They generally have a slight hint of gray, so they’re rarely as highly saturated as blue sapphires. Their color is caused by the presence of boron impurities—the more boron, the deeper the blue.

	Blue diamonds are exteremely rare and those with strong color are some of the rarest
	gemstones.
Fancy green diamonds are typically light in tone and low in saturation. Their color often appears muted, with a grayish or brownish cast. The hue is generally in the yellowish green category. In most green diamonds, the hue is confined to the surface, and rarely extends through the entire stone. That’s why cutters try to leave as much of the natural rough around the girdle as possible.

Green diamonds get their color when radiation displaces carbon atoms from their normal positions in the crystal structure. This can happen naturally when diamond deposits lie near radioactive rocks, or artificially as a result of treatment by irradiation.

Naturally colored green diamonds are extremely rare. Because of their rarity and the very real possibility of treatment, green diamonds are always regarded with suspicion and examined carefully in gemological laboratories. Even so, advanced gemological testing can’t always determine color origin in green diamonds.

Brown is the most common fancy diamond color and also the earliest to be used in jewelry. Second-century Romans set brown diamonds in rings. In modern times, however, they took some time to become popular.

Brown diamonds were typically considered good only for industrial use until the 1980s, when abundant quantities of them began to appear in the production of the Argyle mines. The Australians fashioned them and set them in jewelry. They gave them names like “cognac” and “champagne.” The marketing worked, and brown diamonds are found in many medium-priced jewelry designs today.

	Diamond graders look for the strongest areas of characteristic color when grading. These are represented by the darker shaded areas in the illustrations for each Fancy color diamond.
Brown diamonds range in tone from very light to very dark. Consumers generally prefer brown diamonds in medium to dark tones with a warm, golden to reddish appearance. They generally show a hint of greenish, yellowish, orangy, or reddish modifying colors.

Yellow is diamond’s second most common fancy color. Yellow diamonds are sometimes marketed as “canary.” While this isn’t a proper grading term, it’s commonly used in the trade to describe fancy yellow diamonds.

Until the late 1990s, there was not much demand for black diamonds. But designers started using them in jewelry, especially contrasted with tiny colorless diamonds in pavé settings, and they began to gain in popularity.

Fancy white diamonds also exist. They have a milky white color. Sometimes white diamonds are cut to display beautiful opalescent flashes of color.

There are also gray diamonds. Most of them contain a high level of hydrogen as an impurity element, which probably causes their color.

Clarity
With fancy color diamonds, color is the dominant value factor. Even diamonds with numerous inclusions that result in a low clarity grade are prized by connoisseurs if they display attractive face-up color. Of course, inclusions that threaten the gem’s durability can lower a fancy color diamond’s value significantly. Fancy color diamonds can exhibit color graining, which is considered an inclusion.

The colored and reflective graining in this light brownish purple-pink diamond is visible under 40-power magnification.
Cut
Size and shape are two aspects of cut that can influence diamond color. The larger a diamond is, or the deeper its pavilion, the farther light can travel in it. This can often lead to a richer, more intense color.

The style of the cut can also influence color. Cutters discovered that certain styles—typically mixed cuts like the radiant—can intensify yellow color in diamonds that are toward the lower end of the D-to-Z color-grading scale. When carefully fashioned as radiant cuts, many yellow-tinted stones—at one time called “cape” by the trade—can become fancy yellows when viewed face up. This perceived improvement in color increases the price per carat. As an added benefit, the radiant style provides higher yield from the rough than a standard round brilliant.

	Fancy color diamonds are often cut into fancy shapes.
Carat Weight
As with diamonds in the normal D-to-Z color range, large fancy color diamonds are rarer and more valuable than small ones.

	The Vagabonde Jaune ring features small white and yellow diamonds surrounding a 10.81-carat yellow diamond. - Vagabonde Jaune Ring © 2011 Fabergé Ltd @chapter:41 @chapter:1 @chapter:41


# Publication Year: 1988
# Title: Spring 1988 G&G Book Reviews
# Abstract: “Famous Diamonds”
By Ian Balfour, 244 pp., illus., publ. by William Collins Sons and Co., Ltd., London, 1987. US$34.95

“How to Carve Jade and Gems”
By June Culp Zeitner with Hing Wu Lee, 130 pp., illus., publ. by Northern Gem Press, 1987. US$21.50

“Legendary Gems or Gems That Made History”
By Eric Brulon, 239 pp., illus., Chilton Book Co., Radnor, PA, 1986. US$35.00

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:23 @chapter:2 @chapter:23


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Lapis Lazuli Quality Factors
# Abstract: The even, deep blue color of this lapis lazuli cabochon is rare and highly prized by connoisseurs.

                      Lapis lazuli is treasured the world over for its beautiful deep blue color.

Color
Variously described as indigo, royal, midnight, or marine blue, lapis lazuli’s signature hue is slightly greenish blue to violetish blue, medium to dark in tone, and highly saturated. In its most-prized form, lapis lazuli has no visible calcite, although it might contain gold-colored pyrite flecks. If the flecks are small and sprinkled attractively throughout the gem, their presence doesn’t necessarily lower lapis lazuli’s value. The lowest-quality lapis looks dull and green, the result of an excess of pyrite. Lapis with white calcite streaks is less valuable.

	This collection of beads shows the range of lapis quality, from a pale blue with an excess of calcite or pyrite to a dark blue to violetish blue without visible calcite. Top-quality lapis can contain some pyrite. – Alan Jobbins

	This collection of lapis beads displays the gem’s subtle variations in shades of blue. - Valerie Power

	This adorable carving of a baby elephant shows off a variety of blue lapis shades. – Orasa Weldon, gift of William F. Larson

	The pale color of the scarab beetle cabochon is typical of commercial-quality lapis lazuli. - Maha Tannous
Although many people associate lapis with dark blue, it’s also found in other blue shades, and even other hues. Its color can range from deep violet blue and royal blue to light blue to turquoise blue to a greenish blue. The combination of different minerals in the aggregate determines the color. For example, the presence of lazurite produces lapis lazuli’s prized royal blue color, while a mineral called afghanite creates a pale blue shade.

	The saturated royal blue of this freeform piece is an example of lapis lazuli’s finest color. The pyrite inclusions are scattered attractively in some areas, but in other areas they’re so dense that they cloud the beauty of the gem’s bodycolor. - Robert Weldon, courtesy Gary Bowersox
Lapis trade grades are based on color and the presence or absence of calcite or pyrite. Lapis types on the market today, in order of their value, are:

		Persian or Afghan—Intense, uniform, medium dark, slightly violetish blue. Contains little or no pyrite, and no calcite

		Russian or Siberian—Various tones and intensities of blue. Contains pyrite and might contain some calcite

		Chilean—Often tinged or spotted with green, with obvious calcite matrix

	The most valued lapis contains little or no pyrite and no calcite, and is an intense, uniform, medium-dark, slightly violetish blue. This quality is known in the trade as Afghan. – Bart Current

	This cabochon’s less intense color and mottled calcite content make it less valuable than a gem with deep, intense color. - Robert Weldon
A gemstone’s appearance might be described using an adjective that refers to a country or region, but that doesn’t necessarily mean the gem is actually from that area. Thus, lapis with a lot of white calcite spots and many green patches might be sold as “Chilean,” but this doesn’t mean it’s really from Chile.

Cut
For thousands of years, lapis has been fashioned to show off its rich, dark color. Typically, lapis cutting styles for use in jewelry are cabochons, beads, inlays, and tablets, as well as decorative carvings.

	Lapis lazuli beads contrast beautifully with freshwater cultured pearls in this lovely necklace. - Mike Havstad

	A lapis tablet graces this man’s ring.

	Lapis lazuli has inspired gem carvers for centuries.

	An attractive design has been carved into this ring’s lapis cabochon.
Today, lapis is frequently fashioned into freeform and nature-themed sculptures. Some of these carvings become wearable art, others are purely decorative.

	Freeform sculptures show off the beauty of high-quality lapis. - Robert Weldon, courtesy Gary Bowersox
Clarity
Lapis frequently contains varying amounts of whitish calcite matrix—the host rock that surrounds the gem—or flecks or veins of glinting yellow pyrite, or both. The gem can also have a smoothly uniform bodycolor, free of visible pyrite and calcite.

	Calcite shows up as white flecks or streaks in the aggregate (left), while the golden, metallic-looking spots are pyrite (right). - John Koivula (right)

	These lapis lazuli specimens are surrounded by their white calcite matrix host rocks. – Orasa Weldon, gift of William and Jeanne Larson

	These two blocks of lapis rough vary greatly in value. The block on the right will sell at a much lower price than the one on the left due to its high calcite presence and its lighter shade of blue. - Maha Tannous
Carat Weight
Lapis rough can be very large, so large fashioned stones are more common than with many other gemstones. Larger sizes are also more likely to be carved into art objects, used in designer jewelry, or cut into calibrated sizes.

	Large lapis rough can be fashioned into spheres or tablets. Lapis lazuli spheres are popular among collectors. - Robert Weldon

	This display of gems from Afghanistan features a large kunzite pendant suspended from
	a necklace of 18 mm lapis beads. - Valerie Power, courtesy ASMED/Gem Hunters Corp. @chapter:1 @chapter:0 @chapter:1


# Publication Year: 2023
# Title: Demantoid, Andradite, and Grossular from Mexico
# Abstract: Figure 1. Demantoid garnet (0.84 ct on the left and 0.28 ct on the right) and an orange grossular garnet (0.55 ct) from Sonora, Mexico. Photo by Diego Sanchez.
Iridescent andradite garnet is an interesting phenomenal stone that was initially produced in Nevada but has also been found in Mexico, Japan, and New Mexico. A small parcel consisting of three stones (figure 1) was recently submitted to GIA’s Carlsbad laboratory and contained some new gem material from the iridescent andradite deposit in Mexico. The deposit is located high in the Sonoran Sierra in the Mexican state of Sonora about 145 km northeast of the city of Hermosillo. The stones were provided by Marion Alberto Márquez Suárez, who works with the mine owner, Salvador Barba.

Figure 2. Mineral inclusions in a Mexican demantoid. Photomicrograph by Aaron Palke; field of view 1.26 mm.
Standard gemological testing gave a refractive index of 1.740 for the grossular garnet and over-the-limit readings for the demantoid garnets. All three samples were inert to both long-wave and short-wave ultraviolet light. Fingerprints and fields of fluid inclusions as well as colorless and dark crystal inclusions were observed (figure 2). The inclusion scenes were reminiscent of skarn-related demantoid garnet from Namibia and Madagascar rather than the horsetail inclusion scenes noted in serpentinite-related demantoid from Russia. Trace element chemistry was collected as part of an ongoing project for demantoid origin determination. Curiously, the demantoid garnets had low gallium levels ranging from 0.45 to 1.96 ppm. This is more in line with serpentine-related demantoid, with gallium less than 1 ppm, than with skarn-related demantoid, which always has gallium levels above 2 ppm. Chromium was also below detection limits, which is consistent with iron-colored demantoid from skarn-related deposits. While these Sonoran demantoid and other garnets are not currently on the market, the miners have produced up to 7 kg of the material over the last 10 years. @chapter:7 @chapter:0 @chapter:7


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Books: Gem Identification Made Easy
# Abstract: By Antoinette Matlins and A.C. Bonnano, 378 pp., hardcover, illus., publ. by GemStone Press, Woodstock, VT, 2013. US$38.99.

                      Originally published in 1989, Gem Identification Made Easy caters to a very broad audience of gem enthusiasts. It serves to inform and educate inexperienced gemologists, a good reference tool for seasoned veterans. Overall, this book contains a wealth of valuable information on simple, practical testing methods, written in a concise, easy-to-understand style.

Many tips and tricks for detecting treatments and how to differentiate between natural and synthetic materials are covered. Of particular interest in this latest edition is a section dedicated to identifying glass-filled rubies, which have plagued the market in the last few years. This chapter will clearly help even novice gem buyers and sellers avoid a costly mistake regarding this material.

However, this book lacks in the same measure of detail regarding diffusion treatment of corundum, which is at least as problematic in the gem trade as glass-filled rubies. The other area where it falls a bit short is image quality. Although color plates are included in this version, the images are small and in some cases very poor illustrations of their intended subjects. Most of the instructional images throughout the text are otherwise adequate.

Overall, this is a welcome addition to any gemological library, especially for the gemologist who must rely on portable instruments. If you’re in search of a “how-to” book full of vibrant images, this is not the one for you. If you are a gemologist at any level in need of a practical guide to gem testing or a reference guide, then you will be quite satisfied with this book. @chapter:16 @chapter:0 @chapter:16


# Publication Year: 2015
# Title: Books: Mineral Treasures of the Ozarks
# Abstract: By Bruce L. Stinchcomb, softcover, 160 pp., illus., publ. by Schiffer Publishing Ltd., Atglen, PA, 2014, US$29.99

	In Mineral Treasures of the Ozarks, author Bruce L. Stinchcomb has chosen to focus on Mississippi Valley Type (MVT) minerals, which come from a specific type of stratiform deposit that occurs extensively in the watershed of the Mississippi River. These minerals are associated with and found in sedimentary rocks. The states discussed in Stinchcomb’s book are Missouri, Arkansas, Oklahoma, and Kansas, as well as Illinois, Wisconsin, Iowa, and Virginia. The last two chapters discuss minerals from other parts of North America and other continents.

	Of the more than 500 illustrations, approximately 100 feature photos, paintings, or maps of mines and mining areas. The remaining illustrations are color photos of mineral specimens and about a dozen polished pieces, most of them in the chapter on quartz. The photos and captions often highlight the different appearances of the same mineral from one mine to the next.

	There are chapters on lead (mostly as the mineral galena), zinc (mostly as sphalerite), barite, and fluorite. There is also a chapter on quartz, which is usually not considered an MVT mineral, but often occurs with classic MVT minerals. One chapter combines copper, cobalt, and iron minerals, while the last mineral-specific chapter combines calcite and dolomite. Each chapter ends with a one-page glossary and list of resources.

	The mineral chapters survey mining history and commercial uses, with numerous photos and descriptions of the minerals and the various locations where they are found. The most detailed chapter on lead also covers transportation from the mines and the smelting process.

	Some of the color photos of mines and mining areas have faded a bit with age, and some of bright colors in the backgrounds of the mineral specimens can be overwhelming, but the sheer quantity of photos far outweighs the occasional distraction. @chapter:21 @chapter:0 @chapter:21


# Publication Year: 2019
# Title: Rubies from Rock Creek, Montana
# Abstract: Figure 1. A suite of nine rubies from the Rock Creek sapphire deposit in Montana. The stones range in weight from 0.172 to 0.578 ct. Photo by Kevin Schumacher, courtesy of Jeffrey R. Hapeman, Earth’s Treasury.

North America has several productive colored stone deposits, from gem tourmaline in Maine and California, to emerald in North Carolina, to peridot, turquoise, and opal in the Western states. One gap in all of this gemological wealth is the virtual lack of any American ruby sources, with the exception of a minor deposit in North Carolina (G.F. Kunz, Gems & Precious Stones of North America, Dover Publishing, Mineola, New York, 1968, 367 pp.). This is surprising given the number of geographic locales in the American West named after the red variety of corundum (i.e., the Ruby Mountains of Nevada and the “Ruby Peaks” found in several states). In his epic tome Yogo: The Great American Sapphire (1987), Stephen M. Voynick provides an explanation for this apparent geographic contradiction. He proposes that early prospectors named these sites after stumbling upon garnets and mistaking them for rubies. Their vision also may have been clouded by dreams of wealth and hopes of striking a rich gem deposit. But what if there is some shred of truth to the old prospectors’ tales?
This journal recently described a ruby submitted to GIA with gemological properties that clearly indicated a Montana origin (Winter 2018 Lab Notes, pp. 434–435). Additionally, Palke et al. (2018) noted the occurrence of rare rubies and violet sapphires from Yogo Gulch (“A common origin for Thai/Cambodian rubies and blue and violet sapphires from Yogo Gulch, Montana, USA?” American Mineralogist, Vol. 103, No. 3, 2018, pp. 469–479). Over the course of several years, Jeffrey R. Hapeman (Earth’s Treasury, Westtown, Pennsylvania) has amassed a unique collection of true rubies from Potentate Mining’s operation at Montana’s Rock Creek deposit. According to Hapeman and Potentate’s Warren Boyd, rubies were only recovered when the miners were asked to put aside anything that resembled a garnet so they could be examined more carefully. Presumably, many rubies had been discarded as garnets in years past. Regardless, rubies from this deposit are extremely rare. To date, only 29 rubies—just over 6 grams—have been found in more than 400 kilograms of mine production.
Nine faceted Montana rubies from 0.172 to 0.578 ct (figure 1) and seven rough rubies from 0.11 to 0.34 grams, supplied by Mr. Hapeman, were included in this study. Additionally, 10 pink, blue, and green sapphires from Hapeman and 15 from GIA’s reference collection, gathered on-site at the Potentate mine, were used for comparison with the rubies. Standard gemological testing of several of the rubies with a handheld spectroscope yielded chromium spectra. The stones displayed weak to moderate red fluorescence in long-wave UV and no fluorescence under short-wave UV. Microscopic examination showed inclusion scenes resembling those of typical Montana sapphires, including crystalline or glassy melt inclusions surrounded by decrepitation halos (figure 2, left). Also common were angular particulate bands, often arranged in partial hexagonal patterns following the crystallographic orientation of the host corundum (figure 2, center). These bands are composed of loosely to densely spaced particles, short to long needles, and/or reflective platelets (figure 2, right). These features are consistent with material from the secondary Montana sapphire deposits at Rock Creek and the Missouri River. Similar inclusion scenes were also observed in the blue, green, pink, and purple sapphires from this study (figure 3).

Figure 2. Inclusion scenes in Montana rubies. Left: A decrepitation halo surrounding an inclusion. Field of view 2.23 mm. Center: Angular bands composed of loosely to densely packed particles and short to long needles. Field of view 3.57 mm. Right: Oriented needles and platelets. Field of view 1.26 mm. Photomicrographs by Aaron Palke (left and right) and Tyler Smith (center).

Figure 3. Left: An inclusion with a partially healed decrepitation halo surrounded by angular particulate bands in a pink Montana sapphire. Right: A typical inclusion scene in a blue Montana sapphire composed of partial hexagonal particulate bands, loosely packed short to long needles, and reflective platelets. Photomicrographs by Aaron Palke; fields of view 2.34 mm (left) and 4.08 mm (right).
The rubies were analyzed by laser ablation–inductively coupled plasma–mass spectrometry (LA-ICP-MS) to uncover their trace element patterns for comparison with the blue, green, pink, and purple sapphires from Montana also studied here. Generally, the rubies had trace element profiles of 13–38 ppma Mg, 16–81 ppma Ti, 1–27 ppma V, 408–2400 ppma Cr, 1106–2958 ppma Fe, and 11–20 ppma Ga with averages of 24 ppma Mg, 31 ppma Ti, 8 ppma V, 979 ppma Cr, 2123 ppma Fe, and 15 ppma Ga. Except for Cr, these values are consistent with the general ranges of pink/purple and blue/green Montana sapphires shown in the supplementary table 1. This is seen more easily in a Cr vs. Ga plot, which exhibits a continuous and seamless transition in Cr values increasing from the blue/green sapphires through the pink/purple sapphires to the true red rubies (figure 4). Additionally, plots not involving Cr tend to show similarities in the trace element chemistry of all other elements between Montana rubies and pink/purple and blue/green Montana sapphires. Figure 5 shows this similarity; it also compares these data against sapphires from a select number of globally important sapphire deposits. Figure 5 suggests that, except for Cr, the trace element profiles of Montana rubies and sapphires are the same, especially in comparison to other global sources of gem corundum. The rubies and pink/purple sapphires have a slight tendency toward lower Mg values, although it is unclear if this is statistically valid or a result of the small sample size. The trace element Cr appears to operate independently of most of the other trace elements and can vary more than four orders of magnitude, which is unheard of for the other trace elements in Montana sapphires. While further research may elucidate these geochemical mysteries, these unusual stones are a testament to the unique corundum produced at Rock Creek.

Figure 4. A Cr vs. Ga plot for blue/green sapphires, pink/purple sapphires, and rubies from the secondary Montana sapphire deposits (Rock Creek and Missouri River).

Figure 5. A Mg vs. Fe plot for sapphires and rubies compares material from Rock Creek and Missouri River with a small sampling of data from other important sapphire localities. @chapter:21 @chapter:0 @chapter:21


# Publication Year: 2015
# Title: Books: Geology of Gem Deposits, Second Edition
# Abstract: By L.A. Groat (ed.), 405 pp., paperback, illus., publ. by The Mineralogical Association of Canada, 2014, US$60.00.

              This edition of Geology of Gem Deposits, compiled by the Mineralogical Association of Canada, is a collection of technical papers accompanying the short course of the same name that was originally offered in Canada in 2007 and recently held in February 2014 during the gem shows in Tucson, Arizona. The quality of the papers is on the level of those found in scientific journals, addressing an audience knowledgeable about fundamental geologic principles and how they pertain to gem materials.

Each chapter consists of a fully developed technical paper that covers a specific gem material or topic relevant to the audience. For example, the first chapter, which deals with diamond, investigates crystal morphology based on crystallization conditions, implications of δ13C in relation to crystallization environment, and the effects of geologic setting on growth, nitrogen aggregates, and diamond type, among other topics. The subsequent chapters are no less technical, exploring geologic conditions at crystallization, tectonic emplacement, isotopic data for origin and dating purposes, and geothermobarometric techniques for various gem materials, including corundum, beryl, chrysoberyl, topaz, and jade. Some of the graphics could benefit from updating, but the images are generally well done and complement their respective papers appropriately. Chemical data is collected through a variety of methods, depending on the material being discussed and the purpose for chemical analysis, and uses both basic and very advanced testing techniques. Discussions of geologic setting and principles assume a knowledgeable audience. Consequently, the subject material trends on the more technical side, and is not recommended for the casual gem hobbyist. The content will, however, appeal to the geologist seeking context for these gem minerals.

Straying from the general theme of most of the papers in this collection, which focus on a single gem or narrow group of gems, the final chapter is an overview of gem materials found in Canada. Since this is a Canadian publication, this is a fitting end to the collection. “Coloured Gemstones from Canada” is divided by gemstone and then subdivided by locality. Field reports from some of these localities would be an interesting addition to a future edition. Otherwise, the papers are of generally good quality and appropriate to the title of the collection. For the geologically minded, this is a useful compilation of technical papers covering a wide variety of gem materials. @chapter:2 @chapter:0 @chapter:2