# Publication Year: 2017
# Title: Magnesio-Axinite from Merelani, Tanzania
# Abstract: Figure 1. Left: A suite of eight magnesio-axinite faceted gems and one rough stone. Clockwise from top right: 1.21 g orange-yellow rough, 2.72 ct. yellow-orange pear shape, 1.14 ct bicolor marquise, 1.51 ct pair of pale pinkish blue princess-cut stones, 1.43 ct pink-blue oval, 1.83 ct light pink to light blue triangle, and at center in the pendant, a 4.22 ct. oval pink-blue gem. Right: The same magnesio-axinite gems under long-wave ultraviolet fluorescent lighting. Photos by Eric Welch; courtesy of Vance Gems.

	Colored gemstone dealer Bill Vance (Vance Gems, Newark, Delaware) showed us some transparent examples of magnesio-axinite, a rare magnesium-dominant member of the axinite group of minerals. Axinite has a general formula of H(CaFe2+MnMg)3(Al2BSi4O16). Gem-quality magnesio-axinite—also known as axinite-(Mg)—is transparent to translucent, with pale blue to pale violet, light brown to light pink, or yellow to golden yellow or orange color (figure 1, left). More intensely colored bluish violet to purple magnesio-axinite tends to have a higher refractive index (1.659–1.681) than lighter-colored pink, purple, or yellow material (1.652–1.668). Magnesio-axinite has a birefringence of 0.010–0.016, strong dispersion, and a Mohs hardness of 5.5. Stones with a blue color component display pale blue to pale violet and pale gray pleochroic colors. Fluorescence is one of the material’s most striking properties—the gem shows a dull red under short-wave ultraviolet light and a vibrant “merthiolate flame color” red under long-wave UV (figure 1, right). We intend to report on the chemistry of this interesting material at a future date.

	Bill Vance - Vance Gems

	In this video segment, gem dealer Bill Vance presents a rare gem from Tanzania—magnesio-axinite—with interesting properties, including striking fluorescence under longwave UV light. He also displays a fine 10.46 ct “Merelani mint” garnet that demonstrates similarly strong fluorescence.

	Vance said he’s attempting to name the gem “vanceite.” Besides the fluorescence, pink to blue-violet stones display a color shift: If you view it under a fluorescent light, you’re going to see a blue stone, he says, under incandescent, it’s more of a pinkish color. Yellows don’t show a color shift.

	Because of the material’s color shift and strong fluorescence, Vance believes it appeals to a wide audience. According to Vance, these examples come from a very limited occurrence in the Karo pit “D” block, Merelani Hills, Tanzania, where the chemistry and formation conditions were just right, and new material is very hard to get. It comes from the same rocks as green garnet, tanzanite, and chrome tourmaline. He remarked that while cutting of magnesio-axinite is straightforward, the biggest problem is getting clean pieces to cut as almost all have inclusions. In terms of size, he said, anything over four carats is a “monster.”

	Vance also showed us a heart-shaped 10.46 ct Tanzanian “Merelani mint” garnet. He noted that it displayed a very strong response to both long-wave and short-wave ultraviolet light (figure 2). Although such vanadium-bearing grossular garnet can come from Kenya or Tanzania, most of the Kenyan material displays no long-wave UV reaction. According to Vance, a strong long-wave UV reaction from a green grossular garnet is strong evidence of a Tanzanian stone from D block. Vance explained that supply of this material is now dwindling. In the beginning, prices ranged from $400–$500 per carat up to $800 per carat. Today’s prices for equivalent material are in the range of $2,500 per carat. For a particularly fine example over six carats, prices might be as high as $10,000 per carat. Demand is really strong, especially in China.

	Figure 2. Left: A 10.46 ct heart-shaped green grossular garnet of the color known as “Merelani mint” in the trade. Right: The same grossular garnet displays a strong orange reaction to long-wave ultraviolet light. Photo by Eric Welch; courtesy of Vance Gems. @chapter:8 @chapter:0 @chapter:8


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Where Do Blue Diamonds Come From? Blue Diamonds Have a Surprising “Superdeep” Origin and a Link to Ancient Oceans
# Abstract: Figure 1: Blue boron-bearing diamond, with dark inclusions of a mineral called ferropericlase that were examined as part of this study. This gem weighs 0.03 carats. Photo by Evan M. Smith.

This is an extended abstract of the article ‘Blue boron-bearing diamonds from Earth’s lower mantle,’ published in the journal Nature. GIA Research Scientist Evan Smith is the lead author of the article, with co-authors Steven B. Shirey, Carnegie Institution for Science; Stephen H. Richardson, University of Cape Town; Fabrizio Nestola, University of Padova; Emma S. Bullock, Carnegie Institution for Science; Jianhua Wang, Carnegie Institution for Science; and Wuyi Wang, Gemological Institute of America.

Type IIb diamonds are a rare variety of diamond distinguished by having boron within the crystal structure, which can impart an attractive blue color. The famous Hope diamond is a perfect example of this blue diamond variety. Type IIb diamonds have long remained a geological enigma, but new research published in the August 2, 2018 issue of Nature reveals they are “superdeep” diamonds, meaning they crystallized much deeper in the earth than most other gem diamonds. Remarkably, the boron atoms contained in these blue gems may have originally been derived from ancient oceans.

Figure 2: Rough blue diamonds weighing between 0.7 and 3 carats each. Examining rough samples, such as these, can be a good opportunity to see inclusions, because inclusions are often skillfully cut and polished away to optimize the appearance of the faceted gem. Photo by Evan M. Smith.
Boron is an element that is strongly concentrated at Earth’s surface. But in the mantle, where diamonds grow, the concentration of boron is extremely low. The boron content of type IIb diamonds is therefore unexpected and challenging to explain. Blue diamonds have intrigued scientists for decades, but the high value and rarity of these gems and their near lack of mineral inclusions have been major hurdles to research.

Prior to this study, no mineral inclusion had ever been identified in a type IIb diamond. However, systematic screening of diamonds submitted to GIA over two years made it possible to find and examine 46 type IIb diamonds with inclusions. By studying the inclusions – small pieces of material trapped in the diamond during crystallization – the research team was able to deduce the host rock and depth where the diamonds grew. The minerals identified in these inclusions are only found together at extremely high pressures, very deep in the earth, leading to the conclusion that type IIb diamonds formed at least as deep as the transition zone (410–660 km), reaching into the lower mantle (>660 km). For comparison, this is approximately four times deeper than most other kinds of diamonds, which form near the base of old and thick continents at depths of about 150–200 km.

The inclusions also show that, at this great depth, the diamonds grew in the presence of ocean crust which was carried down to the lower mantle by the conveyor-belt-like process of subduction. The connection with subducted oceanic lithosphere suggests that boron, responsible for the blue color in type IIb diamonds, may have been carried down from the earth’s surface.

Figure 3: Inclusion of calcium silicate in a 0.21 carat blue diamond seen with the field view of 1.42 mm wide. This inclusion is evidence that the diamond grew at extreme depths in the mantle. Photo by Evan M. Smith.
When seawater infiltrates the ocean floor, it causes chemical reactions that deposit boron into the oceanic lithosphere. This new study proposes a model whereby some of this boron is subducted with hydrous (water-bearing) minerals down to the lower mantle. At this great depth, the increased temperature and pressure break down the hydrous minerals, which then release a boron-enriched fluid that triggers diamond growth. Many of the inclusions in the blue diamonds that Smith and his colleagues examined have coexisting methane and hydrogen as a thin layer surrounding the solid minerals, providing evidence of diamond growth from such a boron-enriched hydrous fluid.

This new study reveals not only that type IIb diamonds are among the deepest diamonds ever found, but also that boron and maybe even water can be carried from the ocean deep into the mantle by the process of subduction. This is a key observation for our understanding of mantle geochemistry and plate tectonic processes.

August 2018 Nature cover “Deep Blue,” explores Evan M. Smith’s research on type IIb blue diamonds that formed when boron hitchhikes to Earth’s lower mantle on oceanic tectonic plates. Image courtesy of Nature.
Until recently, it was widely held that superdeep diamonds are always small and never of gem quality. This notion is upended by the present discovery that blue boron-bearing diamonds are superdeep, in addition to the 2016 finding that relatively large and pure (CLIPPIR) diamonds are also superdeep. Thus, many of the world’s most expensive and dazzling gem diamonds are superdeep diamonds, making them invaluable physical samples from the convecting mantle hundreds of kilometers beneath our feet.

Dr. Evan Smith will present this research at GIA’s International Gemological Symposium, Oct. 7-9 in Carlsbad, CA. For more information on the program and to register, visit symposium.GIA.edu. @chapter:44 @chapter:1 @chapter:44


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Analysis of Synthetic Ruby Overgrowth on Corundum
# Abstract: This photo shows one of the wafers prepared for LA-ICP-MS analysis in transmitted (left) and darkfield lighting (right). The thickness of the synthetic overgrowth and the inclusions in the natural seed are readily visible. Photos by J. Muyal © GIA.

                      This GIA laboratory study provides analysis of ten samples of synthetic ruby overgrowth on natural colorless sapphire “seeds.” One of the authors obtained them from a Bangkok-based gem dealer, who reported they resulted from chromium (Cr) diffusion experiments conducted in the 1990s by the Douros Company, a noted synthetic ruby grower. Those experiments sought to diffuse Cr into natural pink sapphire to provide a ruby color appearance.

The samples were purplish red to red in color and ranged from 1.40 to 2.17 ct.

GIA gemologists analyzed them using conventional microscopy, Fourier-transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy, and laser ablation–inductively coupled plasma–mass spectrometry (LA-ICP-MS).

Magnification revealed triangular growth marks, sub-parallel striations, and “heat wave”-like formations at the interface between the overgrowth and the seed. The overgrowth also contained numerous flux inclusions. Characteristics of the natural seeds included healed fractures, heat-altered crystals, and intersecting needles.

Three samples were fabricated into wafers for LA-ICP-MS analysis of their trace-element chemistry. For comparison purposes, the authors also collected chemistry data on representative synthetic ruby crystals: one flux-grown Douros and one hydrothermal example.

On the basis of microscope observation and for convenience, the authors divided the samples into two groups they dubbed “type I” and “type II.” Type I had no discernable boundary between the natural seed and the synthetic overgrowth, which was often confined to the table facet alone. Type II samples had much thicker synthetic overgrowth, with an obvious “dusty” interface between the two.

In the type I sample analyzed by LA-ICP-MS, the seed provided trace-element chemistry representative of natural corundum, while the synthetic overgrowth lacked elements such as vanadium, iron, and gallium, but had elevated levels of Cr, (up to 6,784 ppma), along with heavy elements atypical for natural corundum, including molybdenum, rhodium, and the heavy metal platinum.

The type II sample analyzed had even higher Cr levels in the synthetic overgrowth (up to 10,353 ppma), but unlike the type I example it also contained elements found in natural corundum, including magnesium, titanium, vanadium, iron, and gallium. However, manganese, nickel, zinc, and platinum were also present. This indicates different growth conditions from the type I example above. The natural seed had trace-element chemistry very similar to the type I sample described.

In both samples, the synthetic overgrowth did not correlate with the as-grown hydrothermal (Russian) and flux-grown (Douros) synthetic rubies included as a comparison.

The authors conclude with a caution not to be misled by the inclusions in the natural seed corundum, but to make a careful examination of the entire stone in order not to miss any characteristic flux inclusions within the synthetic overgrowth. @chapter:19 @chapter:0 @chapter:19


# Publication Year: 2002
# Title: Winter 2002 G&G Lab Notes
# Abstract: “Piranha” Agate
Surface-Treated Amber
Unusual Ceramic Gem Simulant
More Bulk Diffusion—Rubies and Orange Sapphire
Diamond with Internal Inscriptions
Two Large Glass Imitation Jade Carvings
Jadeite Bleached, Impregnated, and Dyed, with Unusual Inclusions
Cultured Pearls with Treated Yellow Color

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:16 @chapter:0 @chapter:16


# Publication Year: 2005
# Title: Inclusions in Transparent Gem Rhodonite from Broken Hill, New South Wales, Australia
# Abstract: Solid, vapor, and fluid inclusions in transparent gem rhodonite crystals from Broken Hill, New South Wales, Australia, have been identified for the first time using Raman spectroscopy and gemological/petrographic techniques. Among the solid inclusions are sphalerite, galena, quartz, and fluorite. The rhodonite also contained hollow needle-like tubes and negative rhodonite crystals. Three-phase inclusions were found to contain a saline liquid, a gaseous mixture of nitrogen (N2) and methane (CH4), and ilmenite crystals. @chapter:3 @chapter:0 @chapter:3


# Publication Year: 2009
# Title: Gem-Quality Yellow-Green Haüyne from Oldoinyo Lengai Volcano, Northern Tanzania
# Abstract: Yellow-green to green-yellow gem-quality haüyne was found for the first time in an alkaline plutonic rock from the active Oldoinyo Lengai volcano in northern Tanzania. The mineral has optical and physical properties that are typical for sodalite-group minerals. Infrared and Raman spectroscopy showed that in addition to the (SO4)2- group, the haüyne also contains (NO3)-, (CO3)2-, and water in its structure. SEM-EDS and EDXRF analyses confirmed the presence of Na, Ca, Al, and Si as major cations, with minor amounts of K. @chapter:12 @chapter:0 @chapter:12


# Publication Year: 2011
# Title: The Radioactive Decay Pattern of Blue Topaz Treated by Neutron Irradiation
# Abstract: A systematic study of 15 neutron-irradiated blue topaz samples was conducted using high-purity germanium (HPGe) digital gamma-ray spectroscopy. The specific activity of the detected radionuclides (134Cs, 182Ta, 46Sc, and/or 160Tb) was measured, and the decay pattern of the irradiated topaz was determined. Based on the time elapsed since their removal from the nuclear reactor, the amount of time required for the residual radioactivity to decay to safe levels was calculated. Most of the samples were safe at the time of the first measurement (95 days after irradiation), but higher concentrations of radionuclide impurities in some samples will require them to be quarantined for several years. @chapter:16 @chapter:0 @chapter:16


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Witnessing the 56th Myanma Gems Emporium
# Abstract: Buyers busy checking a jadeite boulder with high potential at the 56th Myanma Gems Emporium. Photo by Wim Vertriest/GIA.

Introduction
Since 1964, thousands of merchants have repeatedly attended the Myanma Gems Emporium to source premium gemstones produced from the legendary source of Myanmar (formerly Burma). Here the buyers compete in silent auctions arranged for each gem category. These include jadeite, pearls and colored gemstones. The emporium is under the management of the Ministry of Natural Resources and Environmental Conservation. Very few people have had the opportunity to observe this event other than the participants, organizers, and media. A team from GIA research and education was recently granted the opportunity to document the emporium for the first time in the Institute’s history. The 56th Myanma Gems Emporium was held in the country’s new capital city, Nay Pyi Taw, March 11–20, 2019. The team spent four full days at the beginning of this 10-day event witnessing the bustling activity that few outsiders get to experience.
Competing for the Top Green at the Jadeite Auction
Many people in the trade call the Myanma Gems Emporium the “Jade Auction” since jade—specifically jadeite—is the absolute star here. Out of the total of 7,747 gem lots offered, 6,973 consisted of jadeite, the majority being pieces of rough. A very limited amount of finished jadeite products was on offer as well. As the sole economically important source of jadeite, the emporium is the only official venue for buyers to source this material. It is well known that China bears a long history of jade appreciation and is the largest consumer market for jadeite. Nearly 3,000 Chinese buyers attended this year’s Emporium, together with about 1,500 local merchants, to compete for the top green.

Thousands of jadeite buyers come to the emporium each year to source their inventory. Viewing and evaluating the quality of their bidding targets is their daily task at the event. Photo by Wim Vertriest/GIA.
Chinese buyers are mainly from Guangdong Province, the hub of jade manufacturing and trading. They come to the emporium in teams to share the workload. With the skyrocketing price of rough, they can also split the cost and the risk involved.

	Jade Overview

Jadeite Production and Its Various Appearances
While it is a trading platform, the emporium also provides a panorama of the ever-changing color, texture, transparency and pattern of jadeite. It is true that no two pieces of jade look the same. Myanmar has both primary and secondary jadeite deposits, though mining mainly happens on secondary deposits. All the lots at the emporium are from secondary deposits.

A typical jadeite boulder from an alluvial deposit. Boulders are often covered with skin, the weathered surface layer. Myanmar’s jadeite sellers are very good at showing the best appearance of jadeite rough by opening windows, show points, or slicing the boulder open. Although the two windows on this boulder show promising green color, buyers need to study the piece carefully to determine whether the rest is also of good quality. Photo by Tao Hsu/GIA.
A jadeite boulder’s anatomy includes two major components: skin and the underlying jadeite. The appearance of both can vary considerably depending on the fluid activity during the formation, the completeness of metamorphism, the degree of weathering, the growth environment, and other factors. Although boulders from the same deposit or location show some similarity, no reliable prediction can be made on the internal quality. Most striking is the immense contrast in the large rough pieces, while the finished pieces seen on the market, especially in fine jewelry, often show quite even color distribution and texture.

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Various Appearances
Even though the top green color, often called “imperial green,” is extremely rare, different shades (tones and saturations) of green still dominate the auction, most being of low saturation. Lavender and reddish hues are much rarer. Medium- to low-quality lavender rough lots are not that uncommon, and the color is often mixed with green areas in a single piece. Reddish and orange bodycolors are very hard to find. The authors saw some boulders with reddish fine-textured skin, which can potentially make cabochons and small pendants. Top-quality colorless (sometime referred to as “ice jade”) rough is also very rare at the emporium, which might explain the high price on this type of material in the consumer market.

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Colors and Patterns
Quality Evaluation
The most challenging and mysterious but exciting part of jadeite rough purchasing is quality evaluation. Becoming an expert buyer usually requires decades of experience. There is no shortcut to excel at this task, and “tuition” needs to be paid before mastering the job.

Thousands of jadeite buyers come to the emporium each year to source their inventory. Viewing and evaluating the quality of their bidding targets is their daily task at the event. Photo by Wim Vertriest/GIA.
A general principle in the jadeite business is that the more you see, the more you pay. Some people choose to buy gambling stones with no show points or windows at all. Though they might pay less for the rough, the risk involved is overwhelmingly high. In the jade trade, there is a famous saying: nine out of ten gamblers go broke. Therefore, the vast majority of jadeite rough buyers go with a stone that has some exposure to indicate its internal quality.

Thousands of jadeite buyers come to the emporium each year to source their inventory. Viewing and evaluating the quality of their bidding targets is their daily task at the event. Photo by Wim Vertriest/GIA.
Jadeite buyers at the emporium are well equipped with some hand-held tools. A strong flashlight, a spray bottle, a plastic bangle template, and an erasable marker are the necessities. A dual-intensity flashlight allows buyers to view the rough both indoors and outdoors. The spray bottle helps to wet the surface so color and texture can be better revealed. The bangle template is used to locate areas of the rough where bangles can be cut. Since bangles command the highest price in the trade, they are always the first thing rough buyers are looking to make. The erasable marker is used to mark on the rough any potential finished products such as bangles, beads, and pendants.

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Quality Checking
The factors buyers care most about are the color, texture, and transparency of the rough. After these three value factors, they also pay attention to how much of the material can be used to make profitable jewelry. In terms of color, even though the hue is obvious, the tricky part is that the finished product can show slightly different color appearance. This is partially due to uneven distribution of color and partially due to the path length of light—in other words, the distance light travels through the stone. Since most rough will be sliced into thinner slabs, the path length of the finished pieces is quite different compared to the rough. Experienced buyers tend to estimate the color appearance of finished products more accurately than people with very limited experience.

	Jade Evaluation

There is an unwritten rule in the jade trade that buyers would rather buy a green vein than a big patch of green on the surface. This is especially useful for buyers with little experience. When the green color distributes linearly as a vein and the seller slices the boulder open along the vein, the surface is full of green color but the depth of the green color is very hard to determine. If buyers can see the vein, it shows more potential since the vein clearly penetrates into the stone. There is still no 100% guarantee, since the vein could possibly thin out. This uncertainty is also the charm of jadeite rough purchasing and even the entire jadeite business.

If the sellers slice the boulder open along the green vein, it will probably display well but definitely sacrifice the thickness or volume of the green. Slicing perpendicular to the vein but also showing the side view of the green color distribution, as seen in this photo, can help the buyers more accurately estimate the value of the piece. Photo by Tao Hsu/GIA.
Buyers rely heavily on the flashlight to determine transparency and texture. The two value factors are often considered together as “water” in the jade trade. Depending on the halo and the depth of the light, buyers get a good idea of whether the rough’s “water” is high or low. After that, the quality is evaluated. Buyers also use the ruler along one side of the flashlight to measure the rough and then decide how much rough is useful and how many finished pieces can be produced. Sellers usually label fractures that have apparent durability concerns. However, it is unavoidable to see some fractures hidden inside the stone. This factor needs to be considered before determining the bidding price.

	Jade Show and Tell

Buying Process
Jadeite buying at the emporium is a laborious journey for every buyer. The first four days are reserved solely for viewing, while pearls and colored stones are both viewed and auctioned at the same time. Starting from the fifth day, bidding and the results revealed are in process together with more viewing activities. From day 5 through day 10, prices for all lots (6,973 in this case) are released gradually.

Hundreds of bidding boxes are arranged in rows starting from the fifth day of the event. Buyers often bid on many different lots. Sometimes it can be dozens of lots. They need to fill the bidding forms carefully to avoid any unnecessary financial loss caused by typos and mismatched lot numbers. Once bidding starts, they will also follow the results closely so they won’t miss their winning lots or be penalized. Photo by Wim Vertriest/GIA.
Almost all the jade lots are spread out in dozens of metal roof sheds outside the air-conditioned main hall. There are a few extra showrooms in the main hall. In March, the average outdoor temperature here is around 40 degrees Celsius (104 degrees Fahrenheit). This makes the buying process hot and dehydrating. In these conditions, buyers need water as much as the jade!

The layout of the 56th Myanma Gems Emporium. Illustration by Russel Samson/GIA.

Most of the jade lots take up considerable space and cannot be shown in the indoor hall. The vast majority is stored in open sheds where buyers can view mainly “utility-grade” jade. Photo by Wim Vertriest/GIA.

	Buying Process

The lots are presented in many different forms, including single boulders, multiple boulders, sawn slabs, small pieces ready for carving, and even bangle cores. The weight of a lot ranges from 40 g to over 5000 kg. Very limited amounts of finished goods are also offered as lots, including beads, bangles, teacups, and bowls. Complete beds were also on offer for those with more eccentric tastes.

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Different Formats of Jade Lots
Buyers need to check all lots briefly to narrow down the targeted group. Then they spend time studying the targeted lots in detail. This includes extensive viewing, measuring, and calculating as a group to make final bidding decisions. Value factors mentioned previously are carefully evaluated one by one. Once the bidding price is determined, buyers will drop their bidding form in the corresponding bidding boxes and wait for the final price to be announced. Sometimes mistakes happen, and there are quite strict rules for the buyers to follow.

	Bidding Mistakes

Exciting Auction Results and Impact
This year’s jadeite auction turned out some staggering numbers and outperformed the June 2018 emporium. For the past five years or so, the number of jade lots offered at the emporium has been declining from around 20,000 lots to around 7,000 lots this year. This shortage of supply is caused by the quick exhaustion of many deposits over the past two decades and the stricter regulations recently emplaced in the mining sector. This time, nearly 80% of the jade lots fell into the low-quality category, while less than 5% were considered fine quality.

A selection of jadeite auction results.
Going back 10 to 15 years, the Chinese domestic jadeite market experienced very fast growth. Jadeite jewelry prices kept going up until about 2015. During the past five years, linear price jump has stopped. The market is relatively stable but with some ups and downs. However, different market sectors changed differently. The slowdown and price dip mainly affected the middle to high market sector, while the low to middle sector in fact expanded with good sales numbers. At the same time, the low-quality and top-quality market stayed about the same.

	Jade Supply

On the other side, jadeite rough prices also experienced skyrocketing growth during the same time period. Now the rough price is at a pretty high point. Many buyers are more cautious, but when the quality is great, big capital is still spent on the rough. This is well reflected by the results here at the emporium.
Out of the 6,948 jade lots, 5,263 were sold for 474.1 million euros ($539 million). This represents a turnover rate over 75%. Buyers also felt that the quality of jade lots was better than the previous year. The king of the all jade lots was lot number 4996, with a final price tag of 10.59 million euros. Second place went to lot 5219, with a final price of 9.11 million euros. There were more than a dozen jade lots that sold for over 1 million euros. With the high prices of jadeite rough, it is unlikely that finished jadeite jewelry prices will drop in the very near future.

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The King of All Lots

The Pearl Rising Star: Burmese Pearl Auction

	Pearls

Pearl lots on sale at this year’s emporium.
Burmese pearls are farmed in the waters around the islands of the Myeik (Mergui) archipelago. One state-owned farm and eleven local and foreign joint venture companies operate pearl farms, some with hatcheries, between Mali Island in northern Myeik and St. Luke’s Island in southern Myeik. Pinctada maxima oysters are raised there, and when they reached adulthood, shell bead nuclei are implanted to grow bead-cultured pearls. Non-bead cultured pearls (keshi) sometimes form as a byproduct, and these are popular within the trade. The usual sizes for the bead cultured pearls range from 11 mm to 19 mm, and the colors obtained are in the white to golden range including cream, silver, and other colors.

Map showing the locations of the twelve farms that operate in the Myeik (Mergui) archipelago.
All pearls are examined and graded by staff of the Myanmar Pearl Enterprise (MPE). The main factors evaluated are size, shape, color, luster and nacre quality. The highest-grade lots comprise color-matched, round, pure golden pearls, while other lots consist of lower-quality goods that are not so carefully matched.
A significant number of pearl buyers were women, many of whom were Chinese. The other two main nationalities present were local buyers and Indians. They inspected the pearls in daylight or under daylight-equivalent desk lights and paid close attention to the matching of the pearls on all quality factors with an eye on finished products. However, some of the lots were intentionally of low quality and mixed sizes, and the GIA team soon learned that the buyers bid on such lots with the intention of processing them via peeling and polishing to dramatically improve their appearance.

Most of the pearl buyers at the emporium are ladies working in a family business, learning the trade from their mothers. This young lady is checking the surface quality of a pearl for blemishes or irregularities. Photo by Wim Vertriest/GIA.

Pearl buyers pay close attention to the matching of pearls in a lot. Even though the lots are graded by color, shape, and other characteristics, there are still differences between pearls within a single lot. Subtle differences in luster, color, and overtone can have a large impact on the price of the jewelry, so these need to be taken into account when buying the starting materials. Photo by Wim Vertriest/GIA.

At the emporium’s pearl sale, the pearls have been evaluated and are grouped in parcels based on their size, color, and luster. All pearls in a given lot originate from the same company, which might operate different farms. Photo by Wim Vertriest/GIA.

Not all pearls are round… Several lots comprised a wide variety of pearl shapes and colors. While round pearls are often used for the classic strands, these more irregular pearls are commonly used in other jewelry types. Photo by Wim Vertriest/GIA.

Three tables with rows of pre-sorted pearl lots were ready for buyers to examine. The lots could be inspected for up to fifteen minutes at a time at a table in the viewing area. Each lot was weighed before take-in and upon return to make sure all was in order. Photo by Nicholas Sturman/GIA.
Prior to the emporium’s opening ceremony, GIA’s Nicholas Sturman and Joyce Wing Yan Ho gave presentations to MPE officials and staff in the gem museum within the confines of the emporium venue. The GIA presentations, organized by Tin Chaw in conjunction with the MPE, covered the farming of cultured pearls in Myeik and other locations around the world as well as the identification and classification of pearls using GIA protocols. The GIA team in turn was treated to a presentation by an MPE representative on the pearl production process, which included very useful information on the procedures and operations used by the pearling companies in Myeik.

Colors from the Legendary Source: Burmese Colored Stones Auction

	Colored Stones

In addition to jade, Myanmar has deposits of almost every other colored stone.
Rubies are the most coveted of colored gemstones, and Burmese rubies are held in especially high esteem. There are three areas that produce rubies in Myanmar: Mogok, Mong Hsu, and Namya (Nanyazeik). Mogok rubies are rarely treated, while Mong Hsu material requires treatment with flux to optimize its appearance. During the auction, the majority of ruby lots are untreated, but some are treated and even cut. The best rubies presented at auction were two untreated rough rubies from Namya (Nanyazeik) with a good shape, color and fluorescence.
Sapphires from Mogok were also available, often as cut stones. Colors included blue and purple to more pastel colors and yellows.
Large volumes of peridot crystals from the Pyaung-Gaung mine in northern Mogok as well as a few lots of amber from the northern Kachin Province were offered for sale.
Most of the buyers of rough colored stones at the emporium are Burmese people, based out of Mogok and Yangon. Thai and Chinese buyers also have an interest in certain goods. Thai dealers look for untreated Mong Hsu rubies, while Chinese customers are more interested in finished products (i.e., cut stones). Stones are checked in front of wide windows with ample daylight to judge color but are also inspected with flashlights and loupes to reveal internal flaws.

Thai dealers are most interested in rubies, especially those from the Mong Hsu area. This material often requires heat treatment with flux, a skill created and perfected in Chanthaburi, Thailand. Close inspection of color zones and inclusions is necessary to estimate the value of the stone, even before treatment, since not every stone reacts in the same way. Photo by Wim Vertriest/GIA.

These two gem buyers from Mogok traveled to the emporium to acquire peridot crystals from the mines in their native region. They are shining a torch through the side of the crystal to evaluate its internal characteristics such as fractures or included crystals. The color of this stone was evaluated in natural light, without torches. Photo by Wim Vertriest/GIA.

While this 7 ct sapphire was not the largest one, it was the finest shown during the 56th Myanma Gems Emporium. The stone combines a good color intensity with high clarity. Photo by Wim Vertriest/GIA.

These four rubies are part of a larger lot put on offer. While they are a bit flat and have a slight window, their color is still magnificent. Photo by Wim Vertriest/GIA.

An unexpected find at the auction was these two rubies from Namya (Nanyazeik) in northern Myanmar. The 7.5 and 4.5 ct stones have an attractive color and strong red fluorescence under long-wave UV, shown in the photo on the right. Photos by Wim Vertriest.

This pure green peridot crystal, about 6 cm high, was part of a larger lot comprising around 35 crystals of comparable size. This piece shows the orthorhombic crystal shape of olivine/peridot crystals. The faces show the etching typical for Mogok peridot. Photo by Wim Vertriest/GIA.
In March 2019, the Burmese government implemented mining legislation that installed a new license issuing system. In the three years before that (since late 2016), no new licenses were issued, which has seriously impacted colored stone production. This is especially the case for ruby mines, most of which have been closed for months if not years. This decrease in production in the main colored stone mining areas was clearly visible at the auction, where the volume and quality of rubies, sapphires, and other gems was significantly lower than previous editions. @chapter:38 @chapter:3 @chapter:38


# Publication Year: 2001
# Title: Modeling the Appearance of the Round Brilliant Cut Diamond: An Analysis of Fire, and More about Brilliance
# Abstract: This article presents the latest results of GIA’s research on the interaction of light with fully faceted colorless symmetrical round brilliant cut diamonds of various proportions. The second major article in this three-dimensional modeling study, it deals with fire—the visible extent of light dispersed into spectral colors. As fire is best seen with directed (spot) lighting, the metric for fire presented (dispersed colored light return, or DCLR) uses this lighting condition. DCLR values were computed for more than 26,000 combinations of round brilliant proportions. In general, different sets of proportions maximize DCLR and WLR (weighted light return, our metric for brilliance), but there are some proportion combinations that produce above-average values of both metrics. Analysis of these metric values with variations of five proportion parameters demonstrated that every facet contributes to the appearance of a round brilliant diamond. In particular, star and lower-girdle facet lengths—which are ignored by most cut-evaluation systems—could have a noticeable effect on WLR and DCLR. Observations of actual diamonds corroborate these results. @chapter:41 @chapter:1 @chapter:41


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Book Review: The Guy Ladrière Collection of Gems and Rings
# Abstract: By Diana Scarisbrick, Claudia Wagner, and John Boardman; 320 pp.; hardcover; illus.; publ. by Philip Watson Publishers; 2016; $65.00.

	This book catalogues, for the first time, the world-class collection of antique rings, engraved gemstones, and cameos of Parisian art dealer and collector Guy Ladrière. Cameos and intaglios are the focus and stars of this assemblage of nearly 300 pieces, with sumptuous color photographs of these coveted rare gems. The three co-authors are all well respected authorities in their fields. Diana Scarisbrick is a noted jewelry historian and author of a number of books, including Finger Rings: Ancient to Modern (2006) and Rings: Miniature Monuments to Love, Power and Devotion (2014). Claudia Wagner, a senior researcher at Oxford University’s Beazley Archive, wrote The Marlborough Gems (2009) with Sir John Boardman, the third co-author of this book. Boardman is Emeritus Lincoln Professor of Classical Archaeology and Art at the University of Oxford. He also authored Greek Gems and Finger Rings (2001), The World of Ancient Art (2006), and Greek Art (2012) among other titles.

	Scarisbrick’s introduction gives the reader a glimpse into Guy Ladrière’s world and his passion for engraved stones. She tells the story of how this Parisian dealer of Old Master paintings and sculpture became fascinated with engraved gemstones during a research period at the Louvre. From this initial spark came a thirst for knowledge on the topic of ancient intaglios and cameos. He studied museum collections in France, Austria, England, and Italy. Ladrière came to realize that the art form was worth collecting no matter the era in which it was created, and over the years he acquired these small sculptures from many time periods. This catalog shows the wide range of high-quality historical gems that Ladrière has assembled, including Roman rings, medieval intaglios, Renaissance cameos, eighteenth century brooches, and more.

	The first chapter, entitled “In The Round,” focuses on stones carved as full three-dimensional sculptures. There are ten stones in this chapter, dating from the late 1st century to the 19th century. The first piece in this chapter is an exquisitely carved portrait of Queen Elizabeth I, crowned with a lion skin of Hercules, as the mythological queen Omphale. Elizabeth encouraged allegorical portraits of herself for political purposes, and the lion skin of Hercules represents the power to fight evil. This piece is carved from a red and lilac agate, and dates from the late sixteenth century. A classical bust of a man (possibly the Roman emperor Domitian) wearing a scale corselet or breastplate, is carved in turquoise with intricate detail. Dating from the late first century, this small sculpture emulates the large marble busts of Roman emperors in military armor, but on a miniature scale. The classical theme is seen in other small carvings as well, such as an eighteenth century chrome chalcedony bust of Jupiter Serapis, with his long hair and beard and modius on his head, and a chrysoprase bust of Hippocrates, the father of medicine and science, circa 1820. An unusual sardonyx from the late sixteenth/early seventeenth century, carved with three grotesque heads, is photographed in beautiful detail. It was mounted later with a gold and amethyst snake style hinges and pendant ring. The large noses and full lips give each face its own character. Stones like these, according to the text, were originally inserted into the handles of daggers.

	“Cameos” is the largest chapter, filled with some of the most beautiful cameos this reviewer has seen in any collection. They are carved from a wide variety of stones such as sardonyx, carnelian, and turquoise. Some are set as brooches or stickpins or set in gold rings; one example is carved from a ring made out of one piece of red amber. The majority of the cameos are heads in profile, some in very high relief but a few in three-quarter view. One from the late eighteenth/early nineteenth century, called just “The Head of a Youth,” is unique because it is not a full profile. The subject actually is turning his head slightly away from the viewer, and his high relief ear is at the center of the composition, a unique twist on the traditional pose. A portrait of Alexander the Great with Ammon horns in yellow and white onyx is mounted in a brooch with four tourmalines. The piece has an elegant classical style with golden locks of hair carved from the yellow onyx. There are no fewer than eleven Medusa head cameos in this section, dating from first century Rome through the Victorian period. A popular classical motif, Medusa with her hair writhing with snakes is represented in red carnelian, agate, turquoise, and light blue chalcedony.

	The mountings used are almost as beautiful as the cameos themselves. A portrait bust of Louis XIII in yellow and red sardonyx is framed in a seventeenth century frame of pearls, diamonds, and enameled palmette panels. On the opposite page is a high relief sardonyx of an African man with a gold and diamond diadem in a gold stickpin. In a section on figural cameos, there is a Renaissance revival pendant with elaborate enameled designs set with emeralds, pearls and diamonds. The sardonyx cameo is of Ganymede with Jupiter as an eagle seated on rocks. The chapter ends with animal cameos, including a charming rhinoceros from the sixteenth century depicting the “Marvel of Lisbon,” a famous rhino that arrived at the Portuguese court in 1577.

	The chapter on intaglios focuses on concave engravings, which differ from raised convex carvings associated with cameos. The majority of the intaglios are set in signet rings or seals. Used for centuries to personalize documents, these gems were pressed into wax to make the mark of the owner or originator of the document. This book shows not only the photo of the intaglio gem in its setting, but also the wax impression it makes in a black and white photograph. This allows the reader to see some details of the design that are difficult to see just looking at the engraved gem. A first century ring, with an intaglio head of a Roman man carved in a ruby, shows the profile of a man wearing a laurel wreath, similar to the one that first inspired the collection.

	Ladrière’s collection of rings is wide ranging. The “Rings” chapter starts with Greek and Roman rings, and then moves to the Middle Ages with Merovingian, Lombardic, and Byzantine pieces. Engraved gold signet rings and intaglio stones are testaments to the time and culture in which they were made. It is a history of early Western rings all in one collection.

	One of the most beautiful pieces in the collection is in the “Christian Subject” chapter. A rock crystal plaque made in Rome around 1530–40, depicts the flagellation of Christ, who is bound to a Roman column. The plaque is etched in amazing detail and in typical classical Renaissance perspective. The architecture and all the figures depicted are classical ideal proportions, and depth is created with a strong linear perspective, as seen in the paintings from that period. Despite the cracks and chipping that have accrued over the centuries, it is still a masterwork of the engravers’ art.

	This book would be a wonderful addition to the library of art historians, jewelry enthusiasts, or anyone who has a passion for beautifully engraved gemstones. @chapter:28 @chapter:2 @chapter:28


# Publication Year: 2023
# Title: Arrow-Patterned Negative Crystals in Sapphire
# Abstract: Negative crystals arrayed in an arrow-like pattern. Photomicrograph by Suwasan Wongchacree; field of view 1.07 mm.
Negative crystals are a common inclusion in corundum and often rupture upon exposure to moderate heat treatment. The author recently analyzed a sapphire containing a series of negative crystals arranged in an arrow-like pattern (see above). Careful examination revealed a partially healed fissure intersecting one of the negative crystals, indicating the stone had been subjected to heat treatment.
Fortunately, this spectacular pattern of negative crystals endured the heat treatment process, decorating the internal micro-world of this sapphire. @chapter:19 @chapter:0 @chapter:19


# Publication Year: 2019
# Title: Unusual Faceted Gemstones
# Abstract: Figure 1. A pink 173.22 ct fluorite, measuring 35 × 33 mm, from Uri, Switzerland. This stone is representative of minerals discovered by strahlers, mineral hunters from the Swiss Alps. Photo by Kevin Schumacher, courtesy of Gravier & Gemmes.

Denis Gravier of Gravier & Gemmes (Poncin, France) exclusively sells rare and unusual faceted stones, such as the pink fluorite from Switzerland shown in figure 1. During the GJX show, he shared insights about the market for such gems.
Gravier developed a passion for colored stones and minerals while growing up in the French countryside. He studied mineralogy, crystallography, and petrology before traveling to the Republic of the Congo, Pakistan, Mexico, the former Yugoslavia, and Morocco a few decades ago to collect mineral specimens. He also learned gemstone cutting techniques. With the knowledge and experience he gained, he decided to open a company specializing in faceted stones of unusual varieties. Some of these gems, he explained, are rarely if ever used in jewelry. The challenge is finding them, but after decades of traveling and visiting the mines, he knows many people in the trade. Now the stones come to him during major shows, so it is no longer necessary to go to the sources. He still travels occasionally to Sri Lanka and Madagascar, where he buys rough that he will have cut in France or overseas. Gravier says Tucson “is a great show…you can almost see all that is available in the world at that time during the show.” In Tucson he meets with clients from the U.S., Japan and other parts of Asia, and European countries.
In terms of novelty and rarity, Madagascar offers the largest variety and supply. New gemstones are always emerging, Gravier explained. Among his stones from Madagascar were the dumortierite and green sphene in figure 2.

Figure 2. Unusual stones from Madagascar. Left: A 0.51 ct dumortierite (5.4 × 4.5 mm). This mineral, commonly known as an inclusion, is now available in very limited quantities as a gem. Right: A 19.65 ct round-cut green sphene. Photos by Kevin Schumacher, courtesy of Gravier & Gemmes.

Figure 3. A 1.21 ct intense yellow legrandite, a rare zinc arsenate mineral from Mexico. Since the last discovery of this mineral in the 1970s, it has appeared on the market only sporadically. Photo by Kevin Schumacher, courtesy of Gravier & Gemmes.
He also described the market for unusual faceted gems. Collectors, not the jewelry industry, are the clientele for rare stones in France and around Europe, which is dominated by the “Big Three” and diamond. Faceted legrandite (figure 3), grandidierite, and dumortierite, for example, are generally not used in jewelry pieces. On the other hand, in Asia, especially Japan, people are attracted by rarity and there is a demand for “exotic” quality material, even in small sizes, for use in jewelry. Gravier feels that more people there have a general knowledge of and interest in gemology and colored stones. The Chinese market is becoming increasingly important for his business. One benefit of the rare stone market is that treatments are not common among these gems, making it a good source for people seeking untreated material.
Even though there is growing competition, with goods at all price points available on the Internet and aggressive marketing through the web and social media activity, Gravier chooses not to sell on the Internet. He invests in improving the quality and variety of his stock, relying on his long-term relationships with clients and suppliers.
Gravier sees a rising interest in rare stones. He believes he is helping to create more appreciation for a wide range of colored stone varieties. He hunts for rare treasures and, as an ambassador for unusual stones, gives them a chance for public exposure and recognition.

	Unusual Faceted Gemstones @chapter:30 @chapter:0 @chapter:30


# Publication Year: 2000
# Title: Spectroscopic Evidence of GE POL HPHT-Treated Natural Type IIA Diamonds
# Abstract: Results from spectroscopic analyses of GE POL high-pressure high-temperature (HPHT) annealed nominally type IIa diamonds are presented, and these spectral characteristics are compared with those of untreated diamonds of similar appearance and type. Absorption spectroscopy reveals that any yellow coloration in such HPHT-treated diamonds is due to low concentrations of single nitrogen, which have not been observed in untreated type IIa diamonds. Laser-excited photoluminescence spectroscopy reveals the presence of nitrogen-vacancy centers in most, but not all, HPHT-treated stones. When these centers are present, the ratio of the 575:637 nm luminescence intensities offers a potential means of separating HPHT-treated from untreated type IIa diamonds. The total absence of luminescence may be another important indicator of HPHT treatment. @chapter:22 @chapter:1 @chapter:22


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Opal History and Lore
# Abstract: Even today, opal invokes a feeling of magic and mystery. - Gift of Paula Crevoshay

                      Writers have compared opals to volcanoes, galaxies, and fireworks. Admirers gave extraordinary opals poetic names like Pandora, Light of the World, and Empress. In ancient Rome, this gem symbolized love and hope. The Romans gave it a name—opalus—that was synonymous with “precious stone.”

In 75 AD, the Roman scholar Pliny observed, “Some opali carry such a play within them that they equal the deepest and richest colors of painters. Others…simulate the flaming fire of burning sulphur and even the bright blaze of burning oil.” He marveled that this kaleidoscopic gem encompassed the red of ruby, the green of emerald, the yellow of topaz, the blue of sapphire, and the purple of amethyst.

Many cultures have credited opal with supernatural origins and powers. Arabic legends say it falls from the heavens in flashes of lightning. The ancient Greeks believed opals gave their owners the gift of prophecy and guarded them from disease. Europeans have long considered the gem a symbol of hope, purity, and truth.

Opal is considered an October birthstone. Some people think it’s unlucky for anyone born in another month to wear an opal. But that particular superstition comes from a novel written in the 1800s (Anne of Geierstein by Sir Walter Scott), and not from any ancient belief or experience. In fact, throughout most of history, opal has been regarded as the luckiest and most magical of all gems because it can show all colors. Once, it was thought to have the power to preserve the life and color of blond hair. @chapter:55 @chapter:2 @chapter:55


# Publication Year: 2015
# Title: Large Cat’s-Eye Emerald from Brazil
# Abstract: Figure 1. This emerald from Itabira–Nova Era in Minas Gerais weighs approximately 43 ct (approximately 25.30 × 18.10 × 13.75 mm) making it one of the largest Brazilian cat’s-eye emeralds examined by the Gübelin Gem Lab. Photo by Janine Meyer.

              Gübelin Gem Laboratories (GGL) in Hong Kong and Lucerne recently had the opportunity to examine a translucent emerald, weighing approximately 43 ct, that exhibited a pronounced and well-centered chatoyancy (figure 1). The stone had a spot RI of 1.57 and a hydrostatic SG of 2.73, and it was inert under long- and short-wave UV radiation. Microscopic observation in reflected and transmitted light presented a series of dense elongated, rectangular, and square multiphase inclusions (figure 2).

Figure 2. Multiphase inclusions of different shapes and sizes, seen in reflected light (left) and brightfield illumination (right), gave rise to the cat’s-eye effect in the Brazilian emerald. Photomicrographs by Wenxing Xu (left) and Stefanos Karampelas (right). Image width 2 mm (left) and 1.2 mm (right).
The UV-Vis absorption spectra showed the characteristic Cr3+- as well as Fe2+- and Fe3+- related bands. In the FTIR absorption spectra, type I and type II water molecules were observed. An intense band at around 2360 cm–1 indicated the presence of CO2, most likely in the multiphase inclusions. Trace-element analysis of the sample with laser ablation–inductively coupled plasma–mass spectrometry (LA-ICP-MS) showed contents consistent with schist- and pegmatite-related emeralds. It also showed lower Li, Cs, and Rb than in emeralds related to highly evolved pegmatites, such as those from Sandawana (Zimbabwe) and Kafubu (Zambia); see J.C. Zwaan et al., “Emeralds from the Fazenda Bonfim region, Rio Grande do Norte, Brazil,” Spring 2012 G&G, pp. 2–17. The stone’s composition was consistent with emeralds from Itabira–Nova Era, Minas Gerais, based on GGL’s reference collection and the published literature on the pegmatites of the area (C. Preinfalk et al., “The pegmatites of the Nova Era–Itabira–Ferros pegmatite district and the emerald mineralisation of Capoeirana and Belmont (Minas Gerais, Brazil): geochemistry and Rb-Sr dating,” Journal of South American Sciences, Vol. 14, No. 8, 2002, pp. 867–887). This exceptional stone is one of the largest Brazilian cat’s-eye emeralds examined by GGL to date. @chapter:13 @chapter:0 @chapter:13


# Publication Year: 1984
# Title: Gem-Bearing Pegmatites: A Review
# Abstract: Many of the important gem minerals seen on today's market - aquamarine, tourmaline, and topaz, among others - come from an unusual type of rock known as a pegmatite. Gem-bearing pegmatites are crystalline igneous rocks that are distinguished by their large-size crystals, concentrations of certain chemical elements otherwise rare in the earth's crust, and various unusual minerals. Pegmatites are typically rather small bodies of rock that are found in particular geologic environments; the gem minerals occur in open cavities or "pockets" within the pegmatite. This article surveys our current understanding of pegmatites, beginning with a brief description of their characteristics and following with a discussion of the occurrence of gem minerals in them. The article concludes with a summary of the specific conditions necessary during pegmatite formation for the crystallization of abundant gem minerals. @chapter:7 @chapter:0 @chapter:7


# Publication Year: 2007
# Title: Yellowish Green Diopside and Tremolite from Merelani, Tanzania
# Abstract: Four similar-appearing yellowish green samples from Block D at Merelani, Tanzania, were identified as diopside and tremolite. The gems are identical in color, but their standard gemological properties are typical for calcic pyroxene and amphibole. The identification of the diopside was made with Raman spectroscopy, while single-crystal X-ray diffraction and electron-microprobe analyses were used to confirm the amphibole species as tremolite. Absorption spectroscopy (in the visible–mid-infrared range) revealed that the two gem materials are colored by V3+, Cr3+, or both. @chapter:12 @chapter:0 @chapter:12


# Publication Year: 1982
# Title: A Report on the New Watermeyer Split-Facet Diamond Cuts
# Abstract: Basil Watermeyer has introduced a new technique in diamond cutting that virtually eliminates the "bow-tie" effect commonly seen in the standard oval, marquise, and pendeloque cuts. It has also been adapted to the Barion emerald cut to provide even greater fountaining of light. The author describes these cuts and his experience with them using cubic zirconia. He also discusses their applicability to colored stones. @chapter:41 @chapter:1 @chapter:41


# Publication Year: 2016
# Title: Book Review: Precious Cufflinks: From Pablo Picasso to James Bond
# Abstract: Walter Grasser, Franz Hemmerle, and Duke Alexander von Württemberg, hardcover, 112 pp., publ. by Hirmer Publishers, Munich, 2016, $49.95.

	Engaged by the 18th century popularization of wearing birthstones as totems of good fortune and protection, it has taken a decade to search for gemstones and designs to complete my “Cufflinks of the Month” club. Therefore, I looked forward to this new work with great anticipation.

	From its title, Precious Cufflinks: From Pablo Picasso to James Bond by Walter Grasser, Franz Hemmerle and Duke Alexander von Württemberg promised to be a pictorial delight and an interesting scholarly work. Written in German and English, the book follows a timeline of gentlemen’s adornment from the l700s to the present day. Regrettably, the cynics were proved correct when they say promises were meant to be broken.

	The title is a tease in that publicity stills of Picasso and Daniel Craig as James Bond were placed in the book solely because both men were wearing shirts requiring cufflinks. I was expecting scholarly references to Picasso’s artistry or references by Ian Fleming to this unique aspect of gentlemen’s jewelry, but my hopes were all for naught. While the book’s stated purpose was to be a chronicle of German artistry pertaining to cufflinks, it is nothing more than a hardcover trade magazine. Advertisements from noted German jewelry firms are found at the end of the book. This would explain why so many examples of modern-day cufflinks were attributable to the advertisers. In their respective sections, the authors would reveal a bit of trivia or make a generalized statement regarding the historical aspect of certain styles or themes of cufflinks. However, these were just fleeting references, whereas cufflinks aficionados, jewelry designers, or readers with a definitive interest in jewelry history would expect stronger documentation or at the least more to support what was written.

	Depicting cufflinks throughout the 19th and 20th centuries was accomplished through artful photography. Beautiful colored gemstones, exacting enamel work, and clever examples of thematic artistry associated with gentlemen of leisure are displayed so as to allow close up inspection.  One pair of note, of German origin, depicted game birds engraved and painted on rock crystal quartz. A more modern pair from 1960 featured deer teeth as a hunting trophy.  Sadly, careful gemological descriptions were lacking. More often than not, no references to the fineness of the metals used were given. Egregious use of misnomers for gemstones were glaringly apparent, such as referring to nephrite as “Russian Jade.”

	Had the promise of the premise of exploration of artistry in German jewelry for gentlemen been better fulfilled through more in-depth analysis and explanation of the major artists of the time, this book would have been an important addition to any jewelry library. It is, however, a pleasant book to look through, and useful for gleaning a very few nuggets of information. @chapter:20 @chapter:2 @chapter:20


# Publication Year: 1984
# Title: Pitfalls in Color Grading Diamonds by Machine
# Abstract: Diamonds are normally color graded by comparison with sets of master stones. This method is purely subjective and requires considerable experience. In principle, spectroscopic techniques should enable color grading with high precision by relatively inexperienced operators. In practice, there are at least two major sources of error - luminescence and scattered light - that may make spectroscopically determined color grades unreliable. @chapter:41 @chapter:1 @chapter:41


# Publication Year: 2024
# Title: Green Amber from Ethiopia
# Abstract: Figure 1. This clean piece of tumbled green amber from Ethiopia, measuring approximately 5.5–6.0 × 2.8–3.5 cm, displays flow structures and some inclusions. Photo by Cristiano Brigida; courtesy of Rainbow King Solomon Mines.
Many consumers and gem enthusiasts are most familiar with yellow and golden amber commonly found in the Baltic Sea region and the Dominican Republic. However, the gem can also be white, orange to red, or brown. In rare cases, strong fluorescence can give amber a bluish or greenish appearance.

Figure 2. Ethiopian faceted green amber, measuring approximately 18 × 18 mm. The gem looks very lively under sunlight. Photo by Cristiano Brigida; courtesy of Rainbow King Solomon Mines.
At the Pueblo Gem & Mineral Show, Rainbow King Solomon Mines showed the authors some rare green amber said to be from the Amhara region of Ethiopia. The selection consisted mainly of large tumbled pieces with a yellowish green to greenish yellow bodycolor, visible flow structure and bubbles, moderate to heavy inclusions, and numerous brown discolorations (figure 1). A few pieces contained sizable insect inclusions as well. The exhibitor presented a limited amount of experimental faceted pieces (figure 2), but these were not for sale. The faceted pieces showed a surprisingly high luster and brilliance, as well as fiery flashes of orange and green colors. Because of the material’s dark tone, prominent brown discolorations, and relative abundance of biological inclusions—no samples were tested by the GIA laboratory—the authors believe it was natural, compared to the green autoclaved copal previously described by Abduriyim et al. (“Characterization of ‘green amber’ with infrared and nuclear magnetic resonance spectroscopy,” Fall 2009 G&G, pp. 158–177).
The discovery of Ethiopian amber deposits is relatively recent, with orange to yellow amber most commonly found. Compared to other amber sources, the occurrence of green amber in Ethiopia is more prevalent but still rare overall and limited to certain localities. The amber observed at the Pueblo show matches the characteristics of the highly bio-included green amber described in detail by Bouju and Perrichot (“A review of amber and copal occurrences in Africa and their paleontological significance,” BSGF - Earth Sciences Bulletin, Vol. 191, 2020, article no. 17). @chapter:6 @chapter:0 @chapter:6


# Publication Year: 2001
# Title: Spring 2001 G&G Lab Notes
# Abstract: Unusual Andradite Garnet
Synthetic Apatite
Unusual Beryl-and-Glass Triplet Imitating Emerald
Diamond with a Hidden Cloud Formation
Diamond with Pseudo-Dichroism
Synthetic Diamond with Distinctive Surface Features
Faceted Musgravite
Natural Five-Strand Pastel Pearl Necklace
Quartzite Bangle Dyed Three Colors to Imitate Jadeite

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:18 @chapter:1 @chapter:18


# Publication Year: 1991
# Title: Marine Mining of Diamonds off the West Coast of Southern Africa
# Abstract: A vast resource of gem-quality diamonds exists off the west coast of southern Africa. Over the course of millions of years, many diamond-bearing kimberlite pipes in the Orange River drainage basin have been extensively eroded and the released diamonds transported to the west coast. Raised marine deposits now on land have yielded almost 100 million carats of predominantly gem diamonds; similar marine deposits and feeder channels are now known to exist offshore. Techniques for exploiting the offshore resources have been proved on a small scale in shallow (<I5 m) waters. New technological developments in underwater mining systems have progressed to the point where mining has commenced in deep (about 100 m) Namibian waters. It is anticipated that production of diamonds from the sea will increase substantially in the future. @chapter:21 @chapter:0 @chapter:21


# Publication Year: 2016
# Title: Large Blue and Colorless HPHT Synthetic Diamonds
# Abstract: Figure 1. The largest blue HPHT synthetic diamonds to date: a 5.26 ct heart shape and a 5.27 ct emerald cut. Both were graded as Fancy Deep blue. Photo by Johnny Leung.

The technology for producing gem-quality synthetic diamonds is making rapid progress. In May 2016, GIA’s Hong Kong laboratory examined five large HPHT synthetic diamonds grown by New Diamond Technology (NDT) in St. Petersburg, Russia (table 1). Examination confirmed that all of them had the known characteristics of HPHT synthesis.

Two of the synthetic diamonds were color graded as Fancy Deep blue (figure 1). The 5.26 ct heart shape and the 5.27 ct emerald cut both surpassed the previous record for largest blue HPHT synthetic, a 5.02 ct specimen reported very recently. Infrared absorption spectroscopy showed that both were type IIb, with strong absorption bands from boron impurity. We observed the typical color banding of HPHT synthetics, with more blue color concentrated in the {111} growth sector. Photoluminescence analysis at liquid nitrogen temperature with various laser excitations revealed no impurity-related emissions, indicating these stones were surprisingly pure in composition and lacking in defects.

Figure 2. The emerald cut on the left is the largest colorless HPHT synthetic diamond ever reported (10.02 ct, E color). The other two, a 5.06 ct round and a 5.05 heart, both had D color. Photo by Johnny Leung.
The other three samples were colorless (figure 2). The largest one was a 10.02 ct emerald cut with E color equivalent. This stone was previously reported in 2015. The round cut weighed 5.06 ct and the heart shape 5.05 ct; both were graded as D color equivalent. Infrared absorption spectroscopy confirmed these three were type IIa diamond, but with a very weak boron-related absorption band at ~2800 cm–1. Photoluminescence spectroscopy revealed very weak emissions from the [Si-V]– doublet at 737 nm, the Nii+ doublet at 884 nm, and NV0 at 575 nm.

For all five samples, multiple growth sectors were observed in DiamondView fluorescence images, showing features similar to other HPHT synthetic diamonds. Strong blue phosphorescence was also detected. Unlike natural type IIa or IIb diamonds, they showed no dislocation or strain when examined under a cross-polarized microscope, a strong indication of high-quality crystallization. Their clarity ranged from VS2 to VVS2, attributed to a few tiny metallic inclusions trapped during diamond growth. No fractures were observed. All of these gemological and spectroscopic features are consistent with typical HPHT synthetic diamonds. This material can be accurately identified with GIA’s existing protocols for analysis.

In addition to their size, these five HPHT synthetic diamonds displayed gemological features comparable to those of top-quality natural diamonds, when graded using the system for natural diamonds. This group of laboratory-grown diamonds demonstrated the quality and size HPHT growth technology has achieved. It is obvious that more and more high-quality HPHT synthetic diamonds, including those with significant size, will be introduced to the jewelry industry. GIA’s decades of research into both HPHT and CVD synthetic diamonds allows for the ready identification of these synthetic diamonds.

TABLE 1. Large HPHT synthetic diamonds recently examined by GIA.

Sample
Weight (ct)
Cut
Color (ct)
Clarity

1
5.26
Heart
Fancy Deep blue
VVS2

2
5.27
Emerald
Fancy Deep blue
VS1

3
10.02
Emerald
E
VS1

4
5.06
Round
D
VS2

5
5.05
Heart
D
VS2 @chapter:9 @chapter:1 @chapter:9


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Amber Description
# Abstract: Rough amber sometimes contains assorted plant and insect inclusions. Many are even visible without magnification.

                      Amber is an organic gem. Organic gems are the products of living or once-living organisms and biological processes. Amber formed tens of millions of years ago, when sap from ancient trees hardened and fossilized.

	Amber comes in a variety of colors. The most familiar ones are yellow to orange, while a
	reddish color is rare. This group includes cloudy amber, reddish amber from Myanmar,
	amber with stress fractures, and pale, almost opaque, amber. - Alan Jobbins
Scientists and collectors treasure amber that contains suspended animal or plant fragments. These fossilized bits of once-living things were trapped in the hardening amber, creating a fascinating time capsule.

Some types of amber are found in the ground. Other types have been freed and carried by tides, ending up on beaches or near-shore areas. The Baltic coast bordering Germany, Poland, and Russia is still an important source of amber.

	Gas bubbles are very common amber inclusions. If there are a lot of them, they can give the material a cloudy appearance.
Amber is sometimes called “gold of the North.” Its warm luster is featured in beads, carvings, pendants, and cabochons, as well as decorative items like cups, bowls, snuff boxes, and umbrella handles.

A related material, called copal, is also fossilized tree resin, but it’s far younger than amber, at less than a million years old.

	Like amber, copal is fossilized tree resin, but it is not as old. Amber must be over a million years old, while copal is younger—often around a hundred thousand years old. @chapter:46 @chapter:4 @chapter:46


# Publication Year: 2003
# Title: Spring 2003 G&G Book Reviews
# Abstract: “Elizabeth Taylor: My Love Affair with Jewelry”
By Elizabeth Taylor, 239 pp., illus., publ. by Simon & Schuster, New York, 2002. US$39.95

“Cameos: Old and New, 3rd Ed.”
By Anna M. Miller, 274 pp., illus., publ. by Gemstone Press, Woodstock, VT, 2002. $19.95

“Beryllium-Treated Rubies and Sapphires”
By Ted Themelis, 48 pp., illus., publ. by Gemlab Inc. (e-mail: ted@themelis.com), Bangkok, 2003. US$20.00

“Jewelry & Gems at Auction”
By Antoinette Matlins, 309 pp., illus., publ. by Gemstone Press, Woodstock, VT, 2002. US$19.95

“Gemstone Buying Guide, 2nd Ed.”
By Renee Newman, 156 pp., illus., publ. by International Jewelry Publications, Los Angeles, 2003 US$19.95

“Mogok, Myanmar”
By Roland Schlüssel, 280 pp., illus., publ. by Christian Weise Verlag, Munich, 2002 (in German). € 100.00

“Crystals: Their Growth, Morphology, and Imperfections”
By Ichiro Sunagawa, 304 pp., illus., publ. by Kyoritsu Publications Corp., Tokyo, 2003 (in Japanese). ¥7,500

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:28 @chapter:2 @chapter:28


# Publication Year: 1993
# Title: Emeralds and Green Beryls of Upper Egypt
# Abstract: Egypt is the most ancient of sources for emerald. More than 2,000 years ago, emerald deposits in upper Egypt were supplying gems throughout the Graeco-Roman Empire. A recent visit to this emerald province revealed that the emeralds occur within a northwest-southeast trending belt of schistose rocks in the Red Sea Hills, near the port town of Marsa Alam. At the time of the visit, there was no official commercial mining of emerald in the region, although there was evidence of sporadic activity by Bedouin tribespeople. Gemological examination of 14 cut emeralds and green beryls revealed properties consistent with those of material from similar geologic environments. @chapter:2 @chapter:0 @chapter:2


# Publication Year: 2021
# Title: Exceptionally Large and Well-Saturated Orange Sapphire
# Abstract: 31.06 ct well-saturated orange sapphire measuring 18.65 × 13.85 × 11.81 mm. Photo by Diego Sanchez.

The Carlsbad laboratory recently received an exceptionally large orange cushion mixed-cut sapphire weighing 31.06 ct (see above) submitted for an identification and origin report. Standard gemological testing gave a refractive index of 1.769–1.762 and a hydrostatic specific gravity of 3.98, indicating corundum. This sapphire exhibits a saturated orange color that is attributed to the trace element magnesium in the stone’s crystalline structure. Microscopic examination showed altered crystals with healing and irregular bands of particles. These altered inclusions suggest that the stone underwent heat treatment. Internal characteristics similar to these are often found in sapphires from deposits of metamorphic sources. Laser ablation–inductively coupled plasma–mass spectrometry (LA-ICP-MS) confirmed the stone had a lower content of trace element iron. The chemistry and internal features of this gemstone indicate an origin of Sri Lanka.
Rough material that will cut large, high-quality sapphires is rare, with most finished stones being less than five carats. Fine gem-quality examples of more than ten carats are considered very rare. The combination of a large size and a well-saturated orange color makes this 31.06 ct sapphire a notable gemstone. @chapter:13 @chapter:0 @chapter:13


# Publication Year: -
# Title: De Beers Optimistic as Sales Revive; Luxury Houses Remain Cautious
# Abstract: De Beers and Alrosa sold more than $1 billion into the rough market in January, the largest monthly quantity in three years. These rough diamonds – from Brauna, Nordestina City, Brazil – have a total weight of 62.78 carats. Courtesy Aftergut N. & Zonen. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA

	De Beers issued a dose of optimism recently with its largest cycle (sight) in more than two years. Additionally, luxury sales have begun to rise again, albeit hesitantly, after a negative year.

	The company’s January cycle totaled about $720 million and the Feb. 20-23 cycle is expected to be similar.

	De Beers CEO Bruce Cleaver said demand for rough diamonds remained “healthy,” adding that the company would exercise caution if necessary, especially at the lower end of the market where Indian manufacturers are still trying to adjust to the demonetization of 500 and 1000 rupee notes (worth US $7.50 and $15 respectively) which hit some of the smaller firms that deal mainly in cash.

	While rough demand remains firm, inventories of polished diamonds have been increasing as sales have not kept pace with production of new goods. This is creating concern that the trade may encounter difficulties in the second half of the year.

	Alrosa, which mines and markets the majority of Russia’s diamond production, sold $358.2 million in rough diamonds at its January sale. The company expressed caution, especially for melee goods that have been affected by India’s demonetization.

	The large luxury houses – including LVMH, which owns the majority of shares in De Beers’ retail operations, Italian jewelry brand Bulgari, and Fred Joallier − posted a 5% worldwide sales increase for the year, with an especially strong final quarter.

	LVMH chairman Bernard Arnault warned against “irrational exuberance” as the company’s stock climbed about 10% in the final quarter, saying potential trade and currency wars and continued difficulties in Europe − coupled with the fact that the world is coming to the end of a 10-year growth cycle − could bring “difficult trading conditions” during the second half of the year. LVMH noted it would mount a strong marketing push to counteract this challenging economic and geopolitical environment in 2017.

	Richemont, which owns Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels, had an 8% sales increase in its jewelry division during the first fiscal quarter of 2017, after a 13% decline for fiscal 2016 that ended Sept. 30. While improved business in the Chinese mainland was one factor for the upturn, strong demand from upscale U.S. consumers also accounted for a significant portion of the increase. @chapter:37 @chapter:3 @chapter:37


# Publication Year: 1996
# Title: Fall 1996 G&G Book Reviews
# Abstract: “The Dealer’s Book of Gems and Diamonds”
By Menahem Sevdermish and Albert Mashiah, 1004pp., illus,,Kal Printing House, Israel, 1996. US$98.00

“New Frontiers in Diamonds-The Mining Revolution”
By David Duval, Timothy Green, and Ross Louthean, 175 pp., illus., piibl. by Rosendale Press, London, 1996. US$55.00

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:50 @chapter:3 @chapter:50


# Publication Year: 2015
# Title: Baroque Pearls
# Abstract: Figure 1. This hummingbird brooch features a 20.0 mm silver pink baroque pearl. It is surrounded by 319 diamonds (2.54 carats total), with a single 0.03 ct ruby eye mounted in 18K white gold. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA, courtesy of Ron Greenidge and Emiko Pearls International.

Several vendors at this year’s Tucson gem shows, including AGTA and GJX, carried baroque pearls in an assortment of colors, sizes, and qualities. A common request from buyers was for pairs in larger sizes. The increased availability of less-expensive, quickly produced freshwater baroque cultured pearls from China in a wide range of sizes has had a noticeable impact on the market, as more designers are experimenting with them and more consumers are seeking them out. At the same time, sizable high-quality baroque pearls from the Philippines and Australia, particularly golden pearls, are becoming harder to find, as noted by AGTA exhibitor Ron Greenidge (Emiko Pearls International, Bellevue, Washington).

Emiko Pearls, founded in 1980, specializes in large and unusual classic and baroque pearls of gem and near-gem quality, namely South Sea, Tahitian, and “keshi” cultured pearls in golden, silver blue, gray, and pink hues. Greenidge showed us several examples of handmade jewelry that maximized the potential of exceptional baroque cultured pearls, particularly “jumbo” baroques in the 20–22 mm range. In response to market conditions, Emiko has transitioned over the past decade from offering loose pearls to almost exclusively producing finished goods.

Figure 2. The whimsical design of this octopus brooch accentuates the 17.3 mm gray
baroque Tahitian cultured pearl set in black-plated 18K gold. Also featured are 374 black
diamonds totaling 3.78 carats, 26 yellow diamonds totaling 0.33 carats, and 169 white
diamonds totaling 1.64 carats. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA, courtesy of Ron Greenidge
and Emiko Pearls International.
Greenidge’s love of jewelry, paired with the increasing scarcity of high-quality larger pearls, has led the company to make one-of-a-kind pieces that showcase the uniqueness of individual pearls. Instead of finding pearls to place into existing jewelry, the firm designs jewelry around the pearl. The results are exquisite with whimsical and natural qualities, as seen in their hummingbird and octopus brooches (figures 1 and 2). Each piece is hand-welded from 18K gold, with diamonds and other precious stones added. The pieces, which take several months to create, are sought by clients in Asia and Europe (particularly China, Thailand, and Italy). High-end stores with one or two locations are the primary buyers, as Emiko does not mass-produce any of its designs. The swallow pin in figure 3, complete with forked tails, uses multiple keshi cultured pearls in two tones with matching diamond and gold colors.

Figure 3. This brooch depicting four swallows contains two golden “keshi” cultured pearls from the Philippines and two silver blue Australian South Sea keshi, ranging from 9 to 11 mm. They are surrounded by 211 yellow diamonds totaling 1.70 carats, 170 white diamonds totaling 1.23 carats, and eight ruby eyes totaling 0.28 carats, all set in white and yellow 18K gold. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA, courtesy of Ron Greenidge and Emiko Pearls International.
As the consumption of pearls, including large baroque cultured material, increases with greater availability of lower-priced goods, expect to see other suppliers of high-quality pearls strive to differentiate themselves as Emiko has done. @chapter:56 @chapter:2 @chapter:56


# Publication Year: 2020
# Title: Portrait of a Paraíba Rough: Challenging Gems in Hard Times
# Abstract: Figure 1. This 85 g Mozambican cuprian tourmaline was released in the Chanthaburi market in May 2020. While everyone can agree that this is a unique and valuable piece, there is no agreement on the price that can be put on it. Photo by Simon Bruce-Lockhart.
The impact of COVID-19 on the global gem trade is unquestionable. Traditional sales and services in most consuming countries came to a grinding halt. But the effects of lockdowns are also deeply felt in distant trade centers that rely on a steady supply of rough gemstones to feed their cutting, treating, and manufacturing industries.
Many of the brokers that take care of the transfer from producing countries to manufacturing hubs were suddenly unable to perform their vital role in the gemstone supply chain. Without a constant flow of new rough material, the wheels that drive the entire industry stop turning.
When a crisis like this happens, people are forced to turn to other sources. In the trading center of Chanthaburi, Thailand, the most obvious source of rough is easily overlooked: the back of the safe. Over the years, rough parcels of varying qualities have been kept for a rainy day, and in some cases material has been held back for years to keep prices buoyant via artificial scarcity.
Difficult times have seen many established businesses releasing some of these old parcels, sometimes of material not seen in volume for years (or even decades), such as Kenyan rubies from the John Saul mine or spessartine “Fanta” garnet from Nigeria.
Both authors had the privilege to handle one of the unique pieces that came from the back of someone’s safe into the market.

When SBL first saw this piece, his immediate reaction was that it was tanzanite. Several other colleagues and knowledgeable friends had the same first impression. It was difficult to imagine the true identity of this crystal, which was the size of a duck’s egg.

Figure 2. The UV-Vis-NIR spectrum shows clear absorption peaks at 660 and 900 nm that are typical for cuprian tourmaline.
This was an 85 g, 427 ct piece of unheated cuprian or Paraíba-type tourmaline rough from Mozambique (figure 1). The stone was shown in the rough gem trading circuit of Chanthaburi near the end of May 2020. The GIA laboratory in Bangkok was able to do some limited testing on the stone, confirming that it was indeed a cuprian tourmaline (figure 2).
Large crystals of copper-bearing tourmaline were seen a decade ago at the advent of the Mavuco mines, but nothing of this size and quality has been seen on the open market for some time. For more on this material, see B.M. Laurs et al., “Copper-bearing (Paraíba-type) tourmaline from Mozambique,” Spring 2008 G&G, pp. 4–30.
There is little doubt that such a large, prestigious piece attracts attention. After that, the consensus stops. While it is undeniable that this stone is very valuable, no one can agree on precisely how valuable it is.
The decisions of how to heat and cut it to open up that coveted blue-green color produced by copper are critical to the value-adding process. The results of heat treating Mozambican cuprian tourmaline can be seen in figure 22 of Laurs et al. (2008).
The unheated Paraíba gem was taken to the handful of factories in Chanthaburi and Bangkok capable of buying and value-adding such a piece. Factoring in cracks, internal stress, and the orientation of some inclusions, all the factories determined that the stone should be cut into several pieces.
But everyone had a different opinion of exactly how to manufacture this piece. And this is where the dreams of Paraíba profits get smashed on the anvil of market reality.
A well-saturated large crystal will, when cut into numerous smaller pieces, exhibit a paler saturation of the original hue. Given that the market will pay much more per carat for larger Paraíbas of intense color than for smaller paler Paraíbas, the range of potential value outcomes regarding the number of pieces to cut is dizzying.
Furthermore, heat treatment of any stone is unpredictable, but tourmaline is a notoriously fickle gem to heat. Would you simply remove the frosted surface and heat it before sawing and preforming? This carries the risk that the gem will shatter uncontrollably during heating, but also the possibility of producing a single Paraíba tourmaline of spectacular size and a coveted deeper color. Or would you play it safe by cutting and grinding it into several smaller preforms and heating the many pieces? This mitigates some of the risks, but sacrifices the potential for capitalizing on the size of the rough.
Even if you play it safe, there is still no guarantee that minor unintended cracking will not require the resizing and re-orientating of preforms before faceting, which could significantly reduce the final color and weight yet again.
The transformative yet risky process of slicing, preforming, heating, and faceting is in some ways a gamble. The reality is that neither buyer nor vendor actually knows what will happen, and there is an element of chance layered on top of the manufacturer’s skill. The coveted “Paraíba” hue and saturation after heating are not guaranteed, and cases of “overcooking” cuprian tourmalines until only a pale pink color remains are not unheard of. These many variables create unknowable outcomes.
The most prudent buyers calculate their offers based on the risk of as many as six or more paler pieces, and offer much lower than expected when seeing this magnificent piece of rough. The vendors optimistically hold to their dream of a higher value based upon two or three larger, well-saturated pieces—and with such a wide disparity in value-outcome consensus, rough gems like this take time to sell. In the case of this piece, no agreement was reached after several rounds of back-and-forth between the different parties, and the stone was returned to its owner.
While this story is not unique, it highlights many aspects of the gem trade that most people throughout the supply chain are unfamiliar with. In these tough COVID times, it becomes especially important to realize how many hands have handled the gems we are seeing and which challenges every single one faces. @chapter:38 @chapter:3 @chapter:38


# Publication Year: 2020
# Title: Oiled Tanzanite
# Abstract: This large 115 ct tanzanite was found to contain oil (left). After removal of the oil (center and right), highly reflective fissures became obvious. This clearly demonstrates how oiling a gem can have a radical impact on its appearance. Photos by Chanon Yimkeativong.

Over the past five years, gemologists at Bangkok’s Lotus Gemology have seen increasing numbers of what we might call “non-traditionally” oiled gems. This is particularly true of, but not limited to, Burmese gems such as ruby, sapphire, and spinel. But it is important to note that any gem with surface-reaching fissures can be oiled, often with dramatic improvements in apparent clarity. Cuprian and rubellite tourmalines are also frequently enhanced in this way.
Recently we received a faceted tanzanite weighing more than 100 carats for testing. As is our practice for non-emeralds exhibiting fissure-filling clarity enhancement, we photograph the gem and then allow the client to resubmit the stone after filler removal. The figure above clearly shows the dramatic effect that fissure filling with oil/resin can have on gems such as tanzanite, even where the refractive index of the filler does not closely match that of the gem. @chapter:2 @chapter:0 @chapter:2


# Publication Year: 1985
# Title: Fall 1985 G&G Book Reviews
# Abstract: “A Field Manual for the Amateur Geologist”
By Alan M. Cvancara, 256 pp., illus., publ. by Prentice-Hall, Englewood Cliffs, NJ, 1985. US$12.95

“The Second Ring: A Jeweler's Guide to Computers”
By S. M. Hickel, 285 pp., illus., publ. by Pimiteoui Publications, Rodney, MI, 1985. US$19.95

“Des Pierres Precieuses Aux Pierres Fines”
By Claire and Alain da Cunha, 95 pp., illus., publ. by Librairie Plon, Paris, France, 1984. US$24.95

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:34 @chapter:0 @chapter:34


# Publication Year: 2021
# Title: Tourmaline in Paraíba Tourmaline
# Abstract: A tourmaline inclusion in Brazilian Paraíba tourmaline. Photomicrograph by Suwasan Wongchacree; field of view 4.8 mm.

The authors examined the 3.21 ct Paraíba tourmaline shown above. The stone was moderately included with fine thread-like trichite fluid inclusions, growth tubes, and many fractures. Growth tubes are often open on one or both ends and may contain epigenetic minerals encapsulated within such as limonite, cookeite, hematite, prosopite, and tourmaline (E.J. Gübelin and J.I. Koivula, Photoatlas of Inclusions in Gemstones, Vol. 2, pp. 763, 764, and 780–781). In this tourmaline, we observed a long prismatic crystal that had a morphology consistent with tourmaline, which was confirmed using Raman spectroscopy. This offered an interesting example of a gem tourmaline that contained a tourmaline inclusion. @chapter:12 @chapter:0 @chapter:12


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Year-end Chapter News and Best Wishes for 2014
# Abstract: Malaysia chapter president Yihchen Ng, right, presents a gift of a Batik (wax hand painting) to a visiting Taiwanese alum and his wife. Courtesy of the Malaysia GIA Alumni chapter.

The end of 2013 is fast approaching, so I want to take this opportunity to send my good wishes for a wonderful holiday season and a joyful, healthy and prosperous new year.

I also want to remind you that one of the ways you can become more successful is to take advantage of the multitude of GIA Alumni Association chapter events available. The opportunity to network at these events ‒ whether in your home city or when you travel ‒ provides limitless possibilities for you to stay relevant with issues and to make new connections in the industry. You can visit the GIA website and the alumni Facebook page to learn what events are scheduled.

Take a quick look at the more than 40 events, listed by topic area, that were hosted by GIA Alumni Association chapters since October. There are lots of great ideas here you can use to develop your own chapter meetings or events:

Jewelry history, auctions and estates: The London chapter hosted John Benjamin, noted for his knowledge of jewelry antiquities and his BBC television appearances on the U.K.’s “Antique Roadshow.” Benjamin also shared his knowledge of fine jewelry auctions at an Ontario, Canada event. The Manhattan chapter featured Judaica jewelry history and South Florida hosted Gloria Lieberman, who spoke about antiques and estate jewelry.

Museum exhibit visits and gem/jewelry collections: California’s San Diego, Los Angeles and Orange County chapters visited the Van Cleef and Arpels exhibit at the Bowers Museum in Santa Ana and the “More is More” exhibit of Tony Duquette and Hutton Wilkinson jewelry at GIA’s Carlsbad campus. The Golden Gate chapter visited the Bulgari exhibit at the de Young Museum, and the London chapter took in the historical Cheapside Horde exhibit, recently featured in G&G, at the Museum of London. Gem collections were the feature at a Metro-Phoenix chapter meeting with a special viewing of the Rainbow Collection of gemstones and jewelry. The Washington, D.C. chapter hosted Dr. Jeffrey Post, curator of the Smithsonian Institution’s National Gem Collection for “What’s New at the Smithsonian.”

Colored gemstones, diamonds and industry news: Colored gemstone expert and author Renee Newmann spoke to the Washington, D.C. chapter. The Manhattan chapter hosted Fire Polish Diamond spokesperson Glenn Markham and Diane Warga-Arias, who shared the top 10 newsflashes from 2013, including issues in jewelry design, fashion, branding, gemology, e-commerce, manufacturing, retail and tradeshow trends.

GIA subject matter expert chapter events: Robert Weldon spoke about the characteristics of East African gems, market trends, gem sustainability and ways to promote East African gemstones in at Taita Taveta University College in Voi, Kenya. Shane McClure shared an inside view into GIA’s laboratory, including new developments in gemstone treatments and the latest in research news at the Twin Cities, Illinois/Indiana and Greater Chicago chapters. Dr. James Shigley provided insight into synthetic diamonds grown using the HPHT (High Pressure / High Temperature) and CVD processes, as well as techniques used to separate and identify synthetic from natural diamonds for the London chapter. The Colorado Mile High chapter had the opportunity to spend time with GIA researchers and gemological research and education pioneers during the Geological Society of America’s (GSA) 125th annual conference recently hosted in Denver. More than 50 attended a dinner hosted by the chapter.

Gem exploration lectures, plus field trips and activities: Jeffrey Bergman shared his adventures in Tanzania with the Golden Gate chapter. Houston hosted Dr. Marcus Origlieri, who spoke on gems and minerals of Burma and Gary Bowersox entertained North Carolina’s group with tales of his life as a gem hunter. The St. Louis and Golden Gate chapters hosted hands-on interactive sessions and three southern California chapters went on a mine adventure.

Monthly gatherings have included Mumbai’s “Last Friday” events, Ontario’s Pub Night and Malaysia’s Council and group gathering. And year-end and holiday celebrations were hosted by Seattle, Houston, Mid-Tennessee, Vancouver and North Carolina.

Quick notes from GIA

Participants in the 2013 Continuing Education Program have about three weeks to complete the eight required assignments. Access remains open until Dec. 31, so if you haven’t done so, there’s still time to finish, even in this busy season!

I want to offer my special gratitude to our alumni volunteer leaders in every chapter across the globe who commit their time to organize, arrange and bring all of you together at chapter-hosted activities. I hope each of you took the time to nominate individuals for the GIA Alumni Association Leadership and Achievement Awards, which recognize members for all they do. Recipients of the chapter awards will be announced soon and the two individuals who receive the International Alumni Awards will be recognized at GIA’s Party at the Gem Mine in Tucson, Arizona on Feb. 7, 2014.

To start a chapter or to get more involved with your local group, contact us.

Marcus J. Origlieri, Ph.D., center, speaks with attendees at a Houston GIA Alumni chapter event on Nov. 3, 2013. Courtesy of the Houston GIA Alumni chapter.

Kate Donovan, third from left, with Colorado Mile High chapter members, including some from the board, at a GSA conference dinner. Courtesy of the Colorado Mile High GIA Alumni chapter. @chapter:45 @chapter:2 @chapter:45


# Publication Year: 2019
# Title: A Variety of Colored Stones from Mayer & Watt
# Abstract: Figure 1. An 8 mm 2.01 ct trillion-cut gray spinel from Myanmar. Photo courtesy of Mayer & Watt.

Mother-and-son team Laurie and Geoffrey Watt (Mayer & Watt, Maysville, Kentucky) noted that while there were plenty of customers at the AGTA show this year, the formula for success was a wide selection of materials and competitive pricing. Their booth had a selection of what was hot this year: the highly sought-after gray zircon, as well as pink and blue zircon; fancy colors of Montana sapphire; Ethiopian emerald from Shakiso; electric pink spinel from the Mahenge deposit in Tanzania; and a wide variety of garnet colors, such as true purple garnet from Mozambique. Gray spinel was one of the most popular stones this year for a wide variety of jewelry applications, including engagement rings. Mayer & Watt had one of the best selections of actual achromatic gray spinel, with no stray hues of blue, green, or purple (figure 1). The true purple garnet offered by Mayer & Watt and a handful of other vendors at AGTA and GJX comes from a single small source discovered in 2015 in Mozambique (figure 2). This garnet lacks a pinkish cast, unlike less expensive pinkish purple material coming from Tanzania.

Figure 2. This purple garnet from Mozambique is a 1.25 ct hexagon measuring 6.1 mm. Photo courtesy of Mayer & Watt. @chapter:6 @chapter:0 @chapter:6


# Publication Year: 2001
# Title: Discovery and Mining of the Argyle Diamond Deposit, Australia
# Abstract: In 1983, the Argyle mine was established as the first major diamond-mining operation in Australia. Almost immediately, it became the world’s largest source of diamonds in terms of the volume (carats) produced. The discovery, development, and operation of this mine challenged conventional beliefs about diamond geology, mineral processing, and the marketing of gem diamonds. In its peak year, 1994, the mine produced over 42 million carats (Mct) of rough diamonds, which represented 40% of the world’s production. A large proportion of this staggering output consists of small brown-to-yellow—as well as some near-colorless and colorless—rough diamonds. A major cutting industry developed in India to process these diamonds into cut gems. The Argyle mine is also noted for the production of a very limited amount of rare pink diamonds. @chapter:21 @chapter:1 @chapter:21