# Publication Year: -
# Title: Alumni Association Japan President’s Goal: Creating Connections for Graduates
# Abstract: Dr. Ken Fujita, GIA GG, who counts Paraíba tourmaline and ruby among his favorite colored stones, urges GIA students to take advantage of the “thousands of stones to identify and practice with” in Graduate Gemologist classes. Photo courtesy of Ken Fujita

Most newly appointed executives – especially those who have just taken the reins of their family’s fourth-generation company – expect leadership challenges on every front, from marketing and sales to operations and logistics.
For Dr. Ken Fujita, GIA GG, the early days of his tenure as president and CEO of his family’s Tokyo-based jewelry wholesaling company, Fujita Co., Ltd., were marked by a different sort of leadership trial: the aftermath of the largest earthquake in Japan’s history.
Fujita was leading a late-afternoon corporate meeting with a partner department store in Tokyo on March 11, 2011 when the shaking started.
“I’ve been through thousands of earthquakes in my life, but the size of this shake was unusual,” Fujita says.
He stopped the meeting and led attendees out to the department store retail area, where mannequins were falling, and customers and retail associates were dropping to the ground and crying. Fujita helped people evacuate to the exit floor; he could not return to his home for the next 24 hours.
Transportation was down across the city after the magnitude 9.1 Tōhoku quake, and the tsunami and nuclear disaster that followed only increased the challenges that Japan would face. But Fujita, who was appointed to his position just after the quake, was determined to lead – and guide his employees through the difficult days, weeks and months ahead.
“We worked harder and harder,” he says. “We had to work beyond the crisis, and think beyond the disaster.” Fujita Co., Ltd., which wholesales with department stores – providing colored stones, jewelry and even sales associates – weathered the crisis, maintaining a healthy business through tumultuous times.
Fujita’s sense of responsibility and leadership likely comes from the fact that Fujita Co., Ltd. was entrusted to him by his father, Sadaharu Fujita, whose own grandfather founded the family business in 1920 as a silver ornament and tableware company.
After World War II, Sadaharu Fujita’s father, Teiichi, expanded the company to jewelry wholesale, and when he took over, he began to import colored stones.
Sadaharu Fujita – who also served as president of the International Colored Stone Association from 1991-1995, instituting the NET system of treatment and enhancement identification – planned to pass the business to his son, Ken, with one qualification: he had to attend GIA to earn his Graduate Gemologist diploma and polish his English skills.

Dr. Ken Fujita, lower right, still has the first-place medal he and his classmates won at a campus-wide volleyball tournament at GIA’s Carlsbad campus in 2002. Fujita, who serves as president of the GIA Alumni Association Japan, says that the friendships he made during his time as a student are one of the highlights of his GIA experience.
Ken Fujita, who already had a PhD in organic chemistry from Tokyo University of Science, moved to Carlsbad and earned his GG in 2002, which he followed up with jewelry design and business classes. He found that learning about such a large variety of gemstones in just six months was both helpful and efficient.
“It was a great opportunity to train my identification skills,” Fujita says. “There are thousands of stones to identify and practice with. In the real world of business, you can’t make mistakes – but the courses offer you the opportunity to make those mistakes and learn from them.”
But for Fujita, the best parts of his GIA experience were the friendships and connections that began there, and continue today.
“Those relationships are so important and meaningful,” he says.
Fujita was appointed as president of the GIA Alumni Association’s Japan chapters in 2010 after his mentor, Yoshiko Doi, suggested it. He is committed to helping foster relationships and networking opportunities between other GIA graduates across Japan.

GIA President Susan Jacques, left, joined Dr. Ken Fujita, GG, at the GIA Alumni Association Japan’s 25th anniversary celebration. Fujita says he wants to make the eight Japanese alumni chapters “a very comfortable place for alumni” where they can foster personal and professional connections. Photo courtesy of Ken Fujita
“After GIA graduation, we can help them make those connections,” he says. “I want to make our chapters in Japan a very comfortable place for alumni. The GIA Alumni Association is a place where graduates can connect with a new supplier or client, make a new friend, or educate themselves with new and ongoing developments in the trade.”
Fujita says those interested in entering the gem and jewelry industry should pursue a GIA education, regardless of whether they have an established family history.  “The designation of GG is a very important ‘passport’ in our industry to identifying a respected, trustworthy professional,” he says.
He also offered some advice on how to stay ahead to those already in the business: “Deal with only beautiful pieces … and I don’t mean only expensive items,” he says. “I think beauty is the key to survive in the industry.” @chapter:47 @chapter:3 @chapter:47


# Publication Year: 2014
# Title: Coated Lawsonite Pseudomorphs Presented as Chromian Lawsonite
# Abstract: Green (chromium-bearing) lawsonite first appeared on the mineral market in 2011–2012. It came from an undisclosed locality on the Greek island of Syros. The only large chromian lawsonite crystals previously documented are from Turkey (S.C. Sherlock and A.I. Okay, “Oscillatory zoned chrome lawsonite in the Tavsanli Zone, northwest Turkey,” Mineralogical Magazine, Vol. 63, No. 5, 1999, pp. 687–692) and the western Alps (C. Mevel and J.R. Kienast, “Chromian jadeite, phengite, pumpellyite, and lawsonite in a high-pressure metamorphosed gabbro from the French Alps,” Mineralogical Magazine, Vol. 43, No. 332, 1980, pp. 979–984). The maximum crystal size observed by Sherlock and Okay was approximately 500 microns, while Mevel’s and Kienast’s largest grains were only 200 microns in length. Interestingly, these grains were reported to be pink. Samples available online ranged from US$50 to more than US$350, and all were reported to be from Syros. To the best of our knowledge, chromian lawsonite is not available from other localities.

We purchased a chromian lawsonite sample purportedly from Syros for mineralogical analysis (figure 1). The sample measured 4.8 × 2.8 × 2 cm, and its largest crystal was about 1.5 cm in length. The crystals were deep green and present in a matrix dominated by ankerite and actinolite. Our sample appeared similar to most other chromian lawsonite samples available for purchase online.

Figure 1. These large green crystals were reported as chromian lawsonite. Ankerite (orange) and actinolite (light green) are the major matrix minerals between the large green crystals (verified by Raman spectroscopy). The specimen is 4.8 cm long. Photo by Earl O’Bannon.
Initial microscopic observations of the large green crystals revealed a smooth wavy surface (figure 2). Raman analysis of this surface showed peaks at 1301, 1342, 1451, and 2720 cm–1 and a broad peak at 2800–3000 cm–1 with secondary peaks at 2871, 2932, and 2961 cm–1 (figure 3). These peaks are typical of Group B fillers (strong aliphatic peaks), which have been used to enhance the appearance of emeralds (M.L. Johnson et al., “On the identification of various emerald filling substances,” Summer 1999 G&G, pp. 82–107). The absence of Raman peaks in the approximately 1600 cm–1 region indicates that this coating is not likely a Group A, C, D, or E filler (Johnson et al., 1999; L. Kiefert et al., “Raman spectroscopic applications to gemmology,” Handbook of Raman Spectroscopy, Vol. 28, 2001, pp. 469–490). This smooth surface was waxy to the touch and easily scratched with a fingernail, and wiping it off with acetone revealed a light green to white surface. All peaks associated with this coating disappeared after cleaning with acetone (again, see figure 3).

Figure 2. The photo on the left (magnified 1.25×) shows a fingernail scratch on the surface. The photo on the right (magnified 1.6×) shows pooling of the coating in a depression in the grain. Photos by Earl O'Bannon.

Figure 3. Raman spectra of the coating before and after cleaning the surface with acetone. Spectra were taken in the same location, with an approximately 2 micron spot size. The typical Raman spectrum of quartz, with clinochlore contamination, is observed in the low-frequency region. Spectra are offset for clarity.
After the coating was removed, Raman analysis of the formerly dark green crystals revealed spectra corresponding to the minerals muscovite/phengite, clinochlore, and quartz (figure 4). About a hundred measurements were taken of all the large green crystals in the sample at the 2 micron scale-length, and no evidence of lawsonite was found. This assemblage of minerals is common in lawsonite pseudomorphs from Syros; prograde pseudomorphs, also containing zoisite and 0.5–3.0 cm in size, are reported to be abundant in this locale (J.B. Brady et al., “Prograde lawsonite pseudomorphs in blueschists from Syros, Greece,” GSA Annual Meeting, 2001, paper 105-0).

Figure 4. Raman spectra of acetone-cleaned large green crystals (bottom three spectra). Mica and clinochlore are the most abundant minerals in the large green crystals. The reference lawsonite spectrum is for a sample from the UCSC mineral collection (sample no. 6481), from Valley Ford in Sonoma County, California. Spectra offset for clarity.
We conclude that this sample is composed of lawsonite pseudomorphs, which were coated to make them appear deep green and imitate chromian lawsonite crystals. The euhedral crystals consisted of a fine-grained mixture of muscovite, clinochlore, and quartz. It is not known whether this sample was coated with the recognition that these were lawsonite pseudomorphs.

All samples of chromian lawsonite that we have found for purchase are from Syros. Thus, buyers should be aware that these could potentially be artificially coated lawsonite pseudomorphs. Further analysis of other “chromian lawsonite” samples is required to document whether any true chromian lawsonites from this locality actually exist. @chapter:8 @chapter:0 @chapter:8


# Publication Year: 2017
# Title: Pink Sapphire Filled with Bismuth-Based Glass
# Abstract: Figure 1. This 2.77 ct light pink sapphire cabochon was treated with a bismuth-based glass filling. Photo by Nuttapol Kitdee.

	Recently, GIA’s Bangkok laboratory received a 2.77 ct light pink sapphire (figure 1) for an identification report. The sample was a semi-transparent cabochon with natural inclusion features: silk needles and particles, twinned planes, and thin films. Also observed throughout the stone were numerous gas bubbles of various shapes and sizes that were trapped along surface-reaching fractures and cavities (figure 2). These indicate the presence of glass filling. However, no flash effect was evident in the filled fractures. The stone’s refractive index of 1.76 and UV fluorescence reaction (medium red to long-wave and weak red to short-wave) were consistent with corundum. Its specific gravity of 3.87 was lower than that of corundum and possibly a result of the filler. Due to the sapphire’s very light color, its visible-range absorption spectrum was difficult to observe.

	Figure 2. With the aid of fiber-optic illumination, magnification revealed these trapped gas bubbles of various shapes and sizes in the light pink sapphire. Photo by Charuwan Khowpong; field of view 2.00 mm.

	Qualitative chemical analysis using energy-dispersive X-ray fluorescence (EDXRF) spectroscopy showed the presence of bismuth in addition to the expected Al, Cr, Fe, and Ga. No lead was detected in the sample, even with the aid of the thick palladium filter. The chemical composition of the filler indicated that the stone had undergone fracture filling using bismuth-based glass (“Ruby treatments – revisited, with Mozambique’s perspective,” Lab Information Circular, Gem Testing Laboratory, Vol. 63, December 2011). Due to the large difference in refractive indices between the bismuth-based glass filled area and the surrounding corundum, this treatment was easier to visually detect than lead-glass filling (figure 3).

	Figure 3. Under reflected illumination, the pink sapphire’s large cavity filling was readily visible with the unaided eye. Photo by Charuwan Khowpong; field of view 2.70 mm.

	Fracture filling with lead glass and non-lead glass has been widely used in low-grade ruby (S.F. McClure et al., “Identification and durability of lead glass–filled rubies,” Spring 2006 G&G, pp. 22–34). Pink sapphires such as this 2.77 ct stone are less commonly encountered in the laboratory for examination and identification. @chapter:19 @chapter:0 @chapter:19


# Publication Year: 1988
# Title: The Sapphires of Penglai, Hainan Island, China
# Abstract: The sapphire deposit at Penglai, on Hainan Island, is potentially the largest in China. Gem-quality sapphires, at least one as large as 35.5 ct, have been found in alluvial gravels approximately 2 km southeast of the city of Penglai. Gem-quality zircon and a few pieces of what might be considered ruby have also been recovered in the course of the geologic study of this area, which has not yet been commercially developed. The average size of the sapphires is 2—5 mm. They are similar in appearance and gemological properties to sapphires from Australia, Thailand, and Kampuchea. @chapter:0 @chapter:0 @chapter:0


# Publication Year: 2014
# Title: Flame-Fusion Synthetic Ruby Boule with Flux Synthetic Ruby Overgrowth
# Abstract: Synthetic rubies with both curved growth and flux-type inclusions in a single stone occasionally appear in the trade. Often these are flame-fusion synthetics that have been quench-crackled and flux-healed to produce a more “natural” appearance. In other instances, flame-fusion material may be used as a seed for flux corundum overgrowth. If the seed crystal is not removed during cutting, it becomes part of the faceted synthetic gemstone (R.E. Kane, “A preliminary report on the new Lechleitner synthetic ruby and synthetic blue sapphire,” Spring 1985 G&G, pp. 35–39).

The Carlsbad laboratory recently examined a 249.78 ct transparent to semi-transparent rough red crystal (figure 1). Standard gemological testing using a handheld spectroscope revealed a typical ruby spectrum. Observed with a dichroscope, the rough crystal displayed medium orange red to purplish red pleochroism and fluoresced strong red to long-wave UV and medium red to short-wave UV. All of these properties were consistent with ruby.

Figure 1. This 73.69-mm-long synthetic ruby crystal is composed of a flame-fusion synthetic ruby boule core with a flux synthetic ruby overgrowth. Photo by Nathan Renfro.

Figure 2. Subtle curved striae (right arrow) and fingerprint-like flux residue (left arrow) are indicative of both flame-fusion and flux growth. Photomicrograph by Nathan Renfro; image width 6.94 mm.
Microscopic examination using brightfield illumination revealed both curved striae and flux fingerprint patterns (figure 2). Careful examination of one end of the rough crystal showed a noticeable boundary between a flame-fusion core and a flux-grown overgrowth. Part of the core had not been covered by the flux overgrowth (again, see figure 1). The flux fingerprint inclusion penetrated just a few millimeters into the crystal and was only visible in the flux overgrowth (again, see figure 2). What appears to be a pronounced dark grayish reaction zone at the interface of flame-fusion and flux growth was observed (figure 3). The reaction zone likely indicates slight structural and chemical variations between the flame-fusion core and the flux overgrowth. When a new crystal is grown on top of an old crystal, the new growth starts on an irregular surface that was created when the old surface was melted back slightly at the melt temperature. When growth starts on an irregular surface, it creates a non-perfect crystal lattice match between the original seed and new overgrowth. This growth boundary face will disrupt the regularity of the structure of the growth crystal and contribute to the presence of the reaction zone (Schmetzer et al., “Flux-grown synthetic alexandrites from Creative Crystals Inc.,” 2012, Journal of Gemmology, Vol. 33, No. 1–4, pp. 49–81). In areas where the structural and chemical difference was not very distinct, the reaction zone was partially visible as dark grayish color patches (figure 4). The reaction zone looked grayish because the red bodycolor of the ruby masked what is probably a blue color zone caused by Ti-Fe pairs, a well-known defect that causes blue color in corundum (Summer 1991 Lab Notes, p. 112). The blue zone is along the interface of the flame-fusion core and flux overgrowth.

Figure 3. A dark grayish reaction zone was observed between the flame-fusion core and the flux overgrowth. Photomicrograph by Nathan Renfro; image width 15.67 mm.

Figure 4. Also observed was a partial reaction zone between the flame-fusion core and the flux overgrowth. Photomicrograph by Nathan Renfro; image width 5.85 mm.
Advanced testing on the rough crystal using energy-dispersive X-ray fluorescence (EDXRF) analysis revealed traces of Ca, Ti, and Cr in the areas both with and without flux overgrowth; Mo was only detected in areas with the flux overgrowth. The concentration of Fe was below the detection limit of EDXRF. This result is consistent with the chemical element differences between flame-fusion and flux synthetics (S. Muhlmeister et al., “Separating natural and synthetic rubies on the basis of trace-element chemistry,” Summer 1998 G&G, pp. 80–101).

This synthetic ruby specimen is unusual in that regions originating from the two growth methods occur in the same crystal, with the half of the split boule seed crystal composing the bulk of the entire specimen. While flux overgrowth on flame-fusion seed crystals has been previously reported (E.J. Gübelin and J.I. Koivula, Photoatlas of Inclusions in Gemstones, Volume 2, Opinion Verlag, Basel, Switzerland, 2005, p. 352), this type of material is rarely seen in GIA’s laboratory, and this example was particularly unusual due to its large size. @chapter:19 @chapter:1 @chapter:19


# Publication Year: 2019
# Title: Colombian Emeralds and Mozambican Rubies from Fura Gems
# Abstract: Figure 1. Colombia’s Coscuez mine, worked by Fura Gems since early 2018, produced the stunning emerald rough shown here. These specimens range in weight from 0.089 to 1.279 g (0.445 to 6.397 ct). Photo by Kevin Schumacher.
We had the opportunity to talk with Rupak Sen, vice president of sales and marketing for Fura Gems in Dubai. Founded in January 2017, Fura holds mining assets in Colombia (emerald) and Mozambique (ruby).
In Colombia, Fura Gems owns and operates the iconic Coscuez mine (D. Fortalechéet al., “The Colombian emerald industry: Winds of change,” Fall 2017 G&G, pp. 332–358). During its long history, this mine has produced some of the finest gem-quality emeralds, such as the 1750 ct Guinness emerald crystal. In the 1970s, Coscuez accounted for nearly 90% of the world’s emerald production, but mining virtually halted during the civil war in the 1980s. In the 1990s, artisanal mining picked up and small licenses were issued by the government. Each license consisted of one tunnel, and many were dug. The approach was very basic, with no scientific exploration or use of engineering to construct the tunnels. People knew that emeralds were associated with white calcite veins, but they had no way of knowing how rich or extensive these veins would be. In the 2000s, Hernando Sanchez acquired and combined all of the small licenses. He has partnered with Fura Gems, which is doing large-scale studies and surveys at Coscuez.
Since work began at the mine in January 2018, Fura has sought to improve the existing infrastructure. The company has done test sampling by washing 3,000 metric tons of emerald-bearing rock, retrieving about 6 carats of gem-grade emerald per ton (figure 1). These numbers will likely drop to 2–3 carats/ton once the mine is in production, since much more rock has to be processed. According to recent resource estimations, around 60 million carats are still unrecovered, representing 30 years of mining. If the mines are expanded deeper underground, those numbers could double or even triple, although geologic exploration is still underway via a drilling program to determine the deposit’s depth.
Around 300 people are employed at the site, mainly in bulk sampling; 280 of them are from the local community. They have experience with most aspects of emeralds, including grading and local geology, but they lack knowledge of modern mining techniques and safety measures. Large companies such as Fura are able to instruct their employees on these matters, which they focused on in the months prior to the production stage. Workers also receive formal contracts and monthly wages rather than being given a part of the production as their wages.
Fura also focuses on social responsibility, including gender issues and environmental reclamation. Fura will be opening a women-only washing plant, where emeralds will be handpicked from the processed host rock. They also understand that while mining is an important part of the community, the entire community cannot work in the mine. Fura has looked at alternative employment opportunities, such as a bakery and a sewing workshop to create uniforms and mining gear. While Colombia has strict environmental regulations that must be addressed every time a license is renewed, Sen says that Fura goes beyond what is required, since environmental issues are becoming more important for shareholders. These efforts are part of the larger concept of responsible mining: respect for the environment, safety, employees, and local communities. One example is setting up a football academy as an after-school activity for kids.

	Fura Gems

Emeralds will be presorted at the mine and taken to company headquarters in Dubai for final sorting and grading before auction. The plan is to bring these rough emeralds to auction in summer 2019 and invite 25–30 companies from Colombia, New York, Hong Kong, and Jaipur. Fura plans to hold two or three auctions per year and will sell only rough. This will provide a regular flow of emerald to the market while allowing for continuous upgrading of the mine and expansion of community programs.
Fura also has interests in Mozambique, where they own the largest ruby mining licenses in terms of area. Demand for rubies is huge and growing, so a consistent ruby supply is highly valued. According to Sen, Myanmar produced about US$1 billion of rough rubies per year at its peak. This has slowed to around US$120 million annually, leaving an enormous demand for other producers to satisfy.

Figure 2. These rough rubies were collected from Fura Gems' claims near Montepuez, Mozambique. Photo courtesy of Fura Gems.
Since rubies were discovered in Montepuez only a decade ago, the deposit is still developing. The rubies are found there in very shallow gravel layers (figure 2); mining is very easy compared to Colombian emerald extraction. Fura has experience with this deposit and the material, as they helped develop the area’s largest ruby mine. They have also acquired Mustang Resources’ ruby licenses and assets and produced there for more than a year. Sen feels that illegal mining is no longer a major problem, which will make it easier to work with the local population.
Fura is exploring the huge license with a drilling campaign to locate the ruby deposits, the extent of which will be determined by more detailed surveys. Once the deposits are identified, bulk sampling will establish the grade. Bulk sampling was scheduled to start in March 2019. They are aiming for a workforce of 400 to 500 by the end of 2019, consisting of 90% local people. Fura is working on social initiatives in Mozambique but did not disclose specifics because the company is still identifying the communities’ needs.
Fura hopes to bring the first rough rubies to auction by the end of 2019, in a system similar to their planned emerald auctions. Using this system, a company can learn the pricing of these highly specialized goods and find out which type of buyer prefers certain material. This will allow for better presentation of goods at later auctions (e.g., creating matching sets of rough in the same lot). They also want to set up a ruby treatment facility in Dubai, where rubies can be enhanced by heating prior to auction for clients who do not have these skills. Most of the buyers are expected to be from Thailand, with others from India, Sri Lanka, and Hong Kong.
Sen sees changes in the jewelry market. The 1990s were heavily focused on gold, with diamonds taking the main focus in the 2000s. He believes we are entering the “decade of color,” and consumers will move toward colored stones. Since retail margins on colored stones are also higher than on diamonds and gold, retailers are motivated to work with them, further increasing demand. Of course, this does not mean that emeralds and rubies will replace diamonds, only that they will complement each other. Fura Gems sees as its biggest competitor other luxury industries such as high-end designer fashion and accessories. Creating and advertising more attractive products in the jewelry range, Sen said, will be critical to keep customers. @chapter:17 @chapter:0 @chapter:17


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Morganite Quality Factors
# Abstract: Mention of the name morganite immediately brings to mind beautiful pastels of pink, purplish pink, and orangy pink. - Robert Weldon, courtesy Mayer & Watt, Maysville, Kentucky

                      Morganite is known primarily as a pastel-colored gem in light, soft shades of pink, purplish pink, and orangy pink. Although light tones are normal for morganite, some stones display strong color.

Color
Morganite’s color range includes pink, rose, peach, and salmon. In today’s market, the pink and rose tints are more fashionable. The peach and salmon hues seem less popular, but some collectors value untreated peach-colored material more highly than heat-treated pink stones.

The gem is almost always heat-treated to improve the pink color. The treatment is not detectable. Heat drives off the yellow or orange tinge, leaving a purer and more attractive pink. The resulting color is stable and won’t fade.

	This skillfully fashioned morganite has the salmon-to-peach color typical of untreated material. - John Dyer, gem courtesy of John Dyer & Co.

	At 68.38 cts., this morganite is large enough to display an attractive pinkish purple color. - Robert Weldon

	Like aquamarine and green beryl, morganite’s color is often light in tone. - Eric Welch

	Light-toned and peach-colored would be an easy way to describe this pastel orange-pink morganite. - Robert Weldon
Clarity
Like aquamarine, another beryl variety, faceted morganite usually does not have inclusions that are visible to the eye. Less-transparent material is often carved or cut as cabochons.

	Most faceted morganites do not have inclusions that are visible to the eye. - Robert Weldon
Cut
Because morganite has distinct pleochroism—pale pink and a deeper bluish pink—it’s necessary to orient the rough carefully for fashioning. Strong hues in morganite are rare, and gems usually have to be fairly large to achieve the finest color. Morganite is cut in all standard shapes and sizes as well as in unique designer cuts.

	Morganite is cut in standard as well as custom shapes and cutting styles, and comes in all sizes. - Robert Weldon

	As with most gems, matched pairs of fashioned morganite command a substantial premium. - Robert Weldon, courtesy Omi Gems.

	This 50.92-ct. designer-cut morganite’s facets and proportions are designed to bring the greatest possible life out of the stone. – Lydia Dyer, gem courtesy of John Dyer & Co.
Carat Weight
Morganite crystals can be very large, so large faceted stones are more common than with many other gemstones. Larger sizes are also more likely to show strong color.

	Morganite crystals are sometimes very large. - Brendan Laurs

	Faceted morganites can be found in large sizes, even exceeding 100 cts. - Robert Weldon @chapter:2 @chapter:0 @chapter:2


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Jewelers Seek to Overcome Weak Numbers in 2016 Holiday Season
# Abstract: The 8.01 ct Fancy Vivid blue Sky Blue diamond sold for $17 million at Sotheby’s Geneva sale Nov. 16. It is set in a ring  surrounded by brilliant cut and baguette cut colorless diamonds. Photo courtesy of Sotheby’s

	Year-end forecasts remain mixed as large jewelry operations, including Blue Nile, reported tepid sales numbers as the holiday season began. Economic indicators, however, continue to point to a strengthening U.S. economy, and store/cyber traffic has been encouraging during the early weeks of the season.

	The latest quarterly financials from Signet (Kay, Zale, Jared) and Blue Nile show sales declines of 2% and 4.3%, respectively, while Tiffany & Co. eked out a 1% sales increase after posting declines in the two earlier quarters. Hearts on Fire, the diamond brand owned by Hong Kong retailer Chow Tai Fook, saw a 9% decline worldwide in the fall quarter. And Chow Tai Fook’s Hong Kong and China sales fell 23.5% in the last quarter.

	Balanced against this, however, are optimistic reports from higher-end independents. A Centurion Magazine survey reported that 60% of luxury jewelers reported sales gains through Black Friday and Cyber Monday, with 28% reporting increases over 10%. Some 25% reported sales declines of 5% or less. In addition, a survey by the “The Street,” a stock market news site, found a 7.1% uptick in combined store and online holiday sales.

	Beyond the holiday season, a report from ABN Amro, the leading diamond industry lender, sees the U.S. economy improving (and a slight upturn in China) through next year, bringing with it an increase in diamond demand that will reverse the slow but steady erosion of polished prices that has occurred over the past 18 months. A Bain & Company report cautioned, however, that diamond producers have been selling more rough than demand can absorb, leading to a potential supply glut next year.

The 9.14 ct GIA-graded Fancy Vivid pink diamond drew a final price of $18.2 million at Christie’s Nov. 15 Geneva sale in which 35 lots exceeded $1 million. Photo courtesy of Christie’s

	AUCTIONS

	After a slow start, and several important diamonds and gemstones not selling, the fall auction season was successful with a number of multi-million-dollar fancy color diamonds changing hands.

	At Christie’s Nov. 29 Hong Kong sale, a GIA-graded 4.29 ct Fancy Vivid blue diamond sold for $11.8 million ($2.7 million per carat), while the 10.7 ct “Ratnaraj” ruby sold for $10.2 million. At Sotheby’s Geneva sale, which totaled more than $136 million, the 8.01 ct “Sky Blue” diamond, graded Fancy Vivid blue by GIA, drew a winning price of just over $17 million ($2.1 million per carat). A 7.74 ct Fancy Deep blue diamond also went for $3.7 million ($1.7 million per carat).

	Christie's Nov. 15 Geneva auction saw 35 lots exceed $1 million, including a 9.14 ct Fancy Vivid pink pear shape that  sold for $18.2 million ($2 million per carat), and a GIA-graded pair of pear shaped D Flawless diamonds weighing 52.55 carats and 50.47 carats that sold for $17.6 million.

	TRADE

	The abrupt action by Indian Prime Minister Narendra Modi to ban cash transactions with 500 and 1000 rupee notes ($7.35 and $14.70) by Dec. 30 has caused chaos in the country’s retail and wholesale markets because these notes comprise 86% of the cash in circulation by value. The move forced cancellation of several end-of-year gem and jewelry trade fairs. The largest affected show is the Dec. 23-26 Jaipur Jewellery Show, which was postponed to an unstated date next year. Gemfields, the colored stone miner, also cancelled its Jaipur auction of emerald and beryl, which was scheduled for the same time.

	Those holding these bills have to deposit them in their bank accounts by Dec. 30 with strict limits on bank withdrawals. The government’s Ministry of Finance also tightened reporting requirements for cash transactions over $3,000.

	The ministry said the prime minister took the action to crack down on “unaccounted wealth and to curb financing of terrorism and other subversive activity.” While the ban will have little effect on India’s export-oriented diamond trade, retail sales in the country remain largely a cash business and economists predict the action could reduce growth by as much as 1%. @chapter:32 @chapter:3 @chapter:32


# Publication Year: 2018
# Title: Omphacite and Chromite: A "Bimineralic Inclusion" in Diamond
# Abstract: Sometimes a clue to the identity of an inclusion is its color. Diffuse transmitted lighting reveals the colors of the omphacite (left) and chromite (right) crystals composing a "bimineralic inclusion" in a 90-point diamond. Photomicrograph by Nathan Renfro; field of view 0.95 mm.

The micro-world of diamonds is fascinating not only to gemologists interested in inclusions but also to mineral physicists who study the deep earth, arguably one of the last frontiers and one not yet accessible to us. Diamond inclusions offer a window into that world and help us piece together its nature to unravel the mysteries of the earth’s very formation (J.I. Koivula and E.A. Skalwold, “The microworld of diamonds: Images from the earth’s mantle,” Rocks & Minerals, Vol. 89, No. 1, 2014, pp. 46–51). Sometimes even relatively common inclusions in diamond present an uncommon sight.

In this case, two minerals identified by Raman microspectroscopy, omphacite and chromite, are in such close association that they appear joined (see above). Such a “bimineralic inclusion” poses the question of how they might have ended up that way: Was it just fate or attraction? There is even the possibility that they were a single mineral at the time of inclusion into the diamond but separated when pressure and temperature dropped as the diamond found its way to the earth’s surface. Future detailed chemical analysis of this pair may yield valuable information about the earth’s interior, including the compositions, pressures, and temperatures of the host rocks in which the diamonds formed.

Many gemologists are familiar with so-called carbon spots in diamonds. Often these are actually chromite crystals—not carbon at all, but rather a chromium-rich iron oxide mineral of the spinel group. If thin enough, these may appear dark red-brown to yellowish brown in transmitted light, as seen in this specimen. Chromite is classified in both the peridotitic and eclogitic inclusion suites found in diamonds. By contrast, the omphacite crystal next to it is a monoclinic pyroxene mineral (clinopyroxene) that is typically pale to dark grayish green or grayish blue in transmitted light and considered a member of the eclogitic suite of inclusions found in diamonds. This inclusion specimen is not only worthy of the photomicrographer’s artistry but also a very valuable portion of the earth’s interior puzzle, which is slowly being put together one piece at a time. @chapter:52 @chapter:1 @chapter:52


# Publication Year: 2019
# Title: Faint Green HPHT Synthetic Diamonds
# Abstract: Figure 1. This 0.50 ct HPHT synthetic diamond, color equivalent to Faint Green, owed its color to nickel impurities. Photo by Robison McMurtry.

The Carlsbad lab recently received 25 diamonds for grading reports that all proved to be undisclosed HPHT synthetics, ranging in weight from 0.46 to 0.52 ct. Of these, nine were equivalent to the colorless to near-colorless range, eight equivalent to Faint yellow-green, seven equivalent to Faint green (e.g., figure 1), and one equivalent to Very Light green. We found that the green coloration was due to high concentrations of nickel. Nickel is a common impurity in HPHT synthetics, but rarely in amounts significant enough to affect the color.
Previously, GIA gemologists described an HPHT synthetic diamond whose color was equivalent to Fancy Deep yellowish green due to massive amounts of nickel creating an absorption band at ~685 nm (Spring 2017 Lab Notes, pp. 96–98). They showed that the optically active nickel impurities were preferentially incorporated into the {111} growth sectors, as detected by the photoluminescence (PL) spectral maps and observable color zoning.
Among this set of 25 HPHT synthetic diamonds, none showed the SiV– defect at 737 nm with 633 nm PL excitation while 16 showed detectible amounts of uncompensated boron at 2800 cm–1 in their infrared absorption spectra. In this suite, five showed the 685 nm absorption band generally associated with strong nickel impurities while the others showed a broader, less pronounced absorption band ranging from 650 to 800 nm. The quantity of uncompensated boron was relatively low, with most containing 0.2–5.6 ppb and one near-colorless sample containing 18 ppb. Uncompensated boron is also a common impurity in HPHT synthetics, as it is incorporated during the growth process; these low concentrations did not contribute to the coloration. Additionally, several showed distinctive metal flux inclusions, also indicative of HPHT growth (e.g., figure 2).

Figure 2. This 0.52 ct Faint yellow-green HPHT synthetic diamond also showed pronounced metal flux inclusions, further proof of its lab-grown origin. This view shows the pavilion facets, with the girdle at the top of the photo. Photomicrograph by Jonathan Muyal; field of view 1.76 mm.

Figure 3. Left: This PL map, collected with 785 nm excitation, shows that the highest amounts of nickel are concentrated within {111} growth sectors of this 0.52 ct Faint yellow-green HPHT synthetic diamond. This false-color map shows the area of the 883/884 nm doublet normalized with the diamond Raman peak. Right: The average PL intensity of the nickel-related 883/884 nm peak within the {111} sectors increases as the equivalent color increases from colorless to Very Light green.
Having such a large dataset of similar but unusually colored HPHT synthetic diamonds in the laboratory simultaneously also allowed us to perform additional analyses to compare them. Photoluminescence maps using 785 nm excitation were collected on the table facet of eight samples, spanning across the various graded colors (figure 3). As expected, the nickel peaks showed the highest concentration within the {111} sectors. From each of the collected maps, we could identify the {111} sectors and determine the average PL intensity of the nickel-related 883/884 nm peaks. When these were plotted according to their equivalent color, the peak intensity was seen to generally increase as the color grade went from the colorless to near-colorless range to Very Light green. Nevertheless, the nickel-related defect at 883/884 nm is not believed to be the same nickel-related defect creating visible absorption. A similar PL map, not shown, was collected on the Fancy Deep–equivalent yellow-green HPHT synthetic diamond (again, see Spring 2017 Lab Notes, pp. 96–98); the nickel intensity in that case was approximately 10× greater than the Faint green samples studied here.
As laboratory-grown diamond manufacturers continue to experiment with their recipes and the process further evolves, we will likely see greater quantities and a wider variety of color ranges. @chapter:9 @chapter:1 @chapter:9


# Publication Year: 2013
# Title: Infrared Microspectroscopy of Natural Argyle Pink Diamond
# Abstract: One of the most distinctive characteristics of natural pink diamond is the lamellae, or “graining,” in which the color resides. These features are believed to have formed under plastic deformation. A great deal of research has focused on color centers in diamond, particularly the N-V center. This article investigates the crystalline defect responsible for pink coloration in natural diamond. Infrared microspectroscopic images were obtained to estimate the spatial distribution of B-centers in natural pink Argyle diamonds. The spatial distribution of the nitrogen B-center (N–V–N3) was anti-correlated with the intensity of pink coloration. The authors believe this is the first such observation. IR spectral features were not influenced by exposure to UV illumination, in contrast to the visible change in coloration under the influence of UV radiation.

Abstracted by Guy Lalous @chapter:22 @chapter:1 @chapter:22


# Publication Year: -
# Title: More is More: The Artistry of Tony Duquette and Hutton Wilkinson
# Abstract: "Pond Scum" Courtesy of a Private Collector and Mona Lee Nesseth. "Super Nova" Courtesy of a Private Collector.

Tony Duquette and Hutton Wilkinson count as two of the most inventive jewelry designers in recent memory.

Duquette first found fame creating costumes and sets for musicals during the Golden Age of Hollywood. He and Wilkinson, his longtime business partner and design collaborator, also designed for theater and dance productions, as well as the homes of their private clients.

Duquette brought that same design sensibility to the jewelry he created for his mother, aunts, wife, and later, private clients. He was famed for using anything that helped him capture the quality he was seeking: what he found in the streets, in the attic, in the desert, in the garden, and in the sea.

"Petal Dance" earrings are made of pink tourmaline (approx. 16 ct.) carved yellow-green tourmaline (approx. 64 ct.), and set in 18K gold. Courtesy of a Private Collector and Mona Lee Nesseth.

He had a life-long fascination with jewelry and bright, shiny things.
Hutton Wilkinson

"Barriera Corallina" is made of coral, cultured pearl, peridot, and 18K gold. Courtesy of a Private Collector.
Wilkinson and Duquette officially became business partners in 1994. Although Duquette passed away in 1999 at the age of 85, Wilkinson continues to create pieces for the Tony Duquette Collection using their favorite materials: malachite, pearls, emerald, and coral.

Wilkinson has since devoted much of his time to the design of unique jeweled creations under the Tony Duquette trademark. His work has been worn by Raquel Welch, Faye Dunaway, Sharon Stone, Liza Minnelli, Ellen Burstyn, Mandy Moore, Drew Barrymore, and Reese Witherspoon, to name a few.

Wilkinson also authored three books about Tony Duquette – his design philosophy, creative process, and jewelry.

Fashion designer John Galliano wrote in the forward to More is More, the second volume written by Wilkinson about Duquette, “Tony Duquette had the eye, lived the dream, created the ultimate setting. He mixed glamour with the glittering social scene like others would hang decorations on a Christmas tree. He applied these baubles of beauty to real life in his designs, and later in his jewelry line, and made everything beautiful.”

Duquette created his early jewelry pieces at the same time he was designing ballroom scenes, fashion, and dream sequences for MGM studios, 20th Century Fox, and Universal Studios. His film work included The Ziegfeld Follies, starring Fred Astaire and Lucille Bremer; Lovely to Look At, with Zsa Zsa Gabor; and To Catch a Thief, with Cary Grant and Grace Kelly. Legendary directors Vincent Minnelli and Alfred Hitchcock sought out the freelance designer for his ability to bring his bold, fantastical creations to their sets.

He won a Tony award for Best Costume for the original Broadway production of Camelot and was the first and only American to be honored with a one-man show at the Louvre in Paris. Another highlight of Duquette’s career was creating a commissioned necklace of citrine, tourmaline, and cultured mabe pearls for the Duchess of Windsor.

"Mariposa" is made of amethyst, rock crystal quartz, kunzite, diamond, enamel, and 18K gold. Courtesy of The Anthony & Elizabeth Duquette Foundation for the Living Arts.

"Sunburst Monstrance" votive cross brooch/pendant is made of rhodochrosite, cultured pearl, enamel, and 18K gold. Courtesy of The Anthony & Elizabeth Duquette Foundation for the Living Arts.

Duquette presented her with an 18K gold wreath of vines and flowers and she wore the necklace often, according to Wilkinson. By wearing it to evening events – even though most wore platinum at the time – she started the trend of wearing gold jewelry after five o’clock.

"Floral Wreath" is made of citrine, tourmanline, cultured mabe pearl, and 14K gold. Designed for the Duchess of Windsor. Courtesy of The Anthony & Elizabeth Duquette Foundation for the Living Arts.

If it's not fabulous, it's meaningless.
Hutton Wilkinson

More is More, an exhibit of Duquette’s and Wilkinson’s masterpieces, is on display at GIA’s Museum from Oct. 10, 2013 through March 2014 at GIA in Carlsbad, CA. If you are planning a visit to Carlsbad, schedule a tour to see the exhibit yourself. Contact Guest Services at 800-421-7250 ext 4116, or 760-603-4116 (if outside the U.S. or Canada). @chapter:20 @chapter:2 @chapter:20


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Bench Tip #5: Repair a Fine Chain with a Soldering Technique
# Abstract: Repairing a fine chain

Chain repair is a set of fundamental skills and techniques every goldsmith needs to master, but the structure and design of the chain dictate what you need to do for a successful repair.

This bench trick focuses on fine cable and rope chains with tiny links made from extremely thin wire. It is difficult to manipulate these links, reconnect them and then solder them. Study the chain to determine how each link connects to the next and remove all damaged links, leaving only the sound links that will be joined back together.

Use a permanent marker to color some of the links near the joint so you can find the links that need to be soldered. Cut open one or more links, depending on the style of chain, and open them slightly to connect to the other section of chain. Make sure you fit the cut ends of the link together as tightly as possible to ensure a good solder joint.

The next and most important step is to solder the open links together so they are joined in an inconspicuous way. The chain should look as if it had never been damaged. So easy to say and so hard to do!

You will likely have problems if you apply flux and solder to the open link, then heat it directly with the torch:
• The solder might not flow to both sides of the joint
• A lump of excess solder will adhere to the link because it is impossible to cut solder into small enough pieces for fine gauge links
• Heating the links directly may fuse several links together, which means you must start  over on a now shorter chain
This “Sneaky Goldsmith Trick” makes it possible for you to avoid all the pitfalls and do a clean job every time.

The secret weapon is the trusty soldering pick. Normally, goldsmiths use a pick to hold a piece of solder in place or position it on the work. In this case, you will use the tip of the soldering pick to expose the clean metal and apply the flux.

Pick up a piece of easy solder about 1.0 mm square with the pick and heat it directly with the torch until it flows and covers the tip of the pick with a thin layer of solder. Be sure to choose a steel pick, because solder won’t adhere properly to titanium or tungsten.

	Use a solder pick to transfer heat and a small amount of solder to a small chain link.
Bring the solder-coated pick into contact with the open joint of the link. Instead of pointing the torch directly at the chain, heat the pick about 8 to 10 mm from the tip. The pick will act as a thermal conductor to carry the right amount of heat to the joint to be soldered. When the solder flows again, a small amount of solder will transfer to the joint. Lift the pick quickly. Allow the chain to cool, pickle and clean up as needed.

This trick simplifies the soldering process and enables the goldsmith to do better work, faster and with fewer mistakes. @chapter:28 @chapter:2 @chapter:28


# Publication Year: 2014
# Title: Natural Colorless Type IaB Diamond with Silicon-Vacancy Defect Center
# Abstract: Figure 1. Emissions from the silicon-vacancy defect at 736.6 and 736.9 nm were detected in this 0.40 ct type IaB natural diamond. Photo by Johnny Leung.

The silicon-vacancy defect, or [Si-V]–, is one of the most important features in identifying CVD synthetic diamonds. It can be effectively detected using laser photoluminescence technology to reveal sharp doublet emissions at 736.6 and 736.9 nm. This defect is extremely rare in natural diamonds (C.M. Breeding and W. Wang, “Occurrence of the Si-V defect center in natural colorless gem diamonds,” Diamond and Related Materials, Vol. 17, No. 7–10, pp. 1335–1344) and has been detected in very few natural type IIa and IaAB diamonds over the past several years.

Recently, a 0.40 ct round brilliant diamond with D color and VS2 clarity (figure 1) was submitted to the Hong Kong laboratory for grading service. It was identified as a pure type IaB natural diamond. Infrared absorption spectroscopy showed low concentrations of the hydrogen peak (3107 cm–1) and N impurities in the B aggregates. Photoluminescence spectra at liquid-nitrogen temperature with 514 nm laser excitation revealed [Si-V]– doublet emissions at 736.6 and 736.9 nm (figure 2), while 457 nm laser excitation revealed the H3 (503.2 nm) emission. DiamondView fluorescence images showed blue fluorescence with natural diamond growth patterns. These gemological and spectroscopic features confirmed the diamond’s natural origin, despite the occurrence of [Si-V]– emissions. No treatment was detected.

Figure 2. The emission peaks at 736.6 and 736.9 nm from the [Si-V]– defect are shown in the type IaB diamond’s photoluminescence spectrum. Identical peak positions are detected in CVD synthetic diamonds.
Examination of this stone indicated that the [Si-V]– defect can occur, albeit rarely, in multiple types of natural diamonds. Therefore, all properties should be carefully examined in reaching a conclusion when [Si-V]– is present. @chapter:9 @chapter:1 @chapter:9


# Publication Year: 2007
# Title: Copper-Bearing Tourmalines from New Deposits in Paraíba State, Brazil
# Abstract: Two new deposits of Cu-bearing tourmaline have been found in Paraíba State, Brazil, not far from the original source at Mina da Batalha. The Glorious mine has produced a limited amount of gem-quality material with a composition that is similar to the tourmaline from Mina da Batalha. Initial work at the second locality, known as Mineração Batalha, has not yet produced any gem-quality material. @chapter:51 @chapter:0 @chapter:51


# Publication Year: 2017
# Title: Golden Rutilated Quartz Artisanal Mining Community
# Abstract: Figure 1. The remote Brazilian mining community of Remedios is the site of the Bahia golden rutilated quartz mines. The town is developing a sustainable collective of artisanal miners. Photo by Brian Cook.

At the January 2017 Jewelry Industry Summit held in Tucson, Brian and Kendra Cook (Nature’s Geometry) discussed their efforts to promote sustainable mining in Brazil’s Bahia State. In cooperation with 2,500 miners from the region, the Cooks are developing a collective in Remedios, Novo Horizonte (figure 1). Plans to brand the region’s unique golden rutilated quartz will be supported by a warehouse and cutting facilities, as well as a visitor center. To provide food security for the population, the Cooks also intend to bring organic community farming to the area.

Brian Cook first visited the remote site, located in Chapada Diamantina bordering the Atlantic Rain Forest and the Serrado and Caatinga ecological communities, in 1983 as a geology student. The trip from Salvador, Bahia’s capital, took 2½ days, and he was shown an example of golden rutilated quartz (figure 2), which was relatively rare on the gem market at the time. He later became an exporter of the quartz and helped raise its profile. The Cooks have since become landowners in Remedios, and their property includes a successful golden rutilated quartz mine. Over the years they have visited with their children from their home in Salvador (now a ten-hour journey thanks to improved infrastructure) and become trusted members of the community.

Figure 2. A local miner holds up an example of the golden rutilated quartz found in the
Remedios area. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA.
The Cooks have already helped locals formalize their land and mining rights, and now they are turning their attention to other initiatives. Their agenda includes mine safety, certificates of origin to ensure transparency and consumer satisfaction, and teaching cutting and polishing gemstones. They especially seek to empower local women, who already sell rough gems at the local markets, through lapidary and beadmaking training. The community’s proximity to the Atlantic Rain Forest makes it an ideal location for ecotourism, a concept that can be combined with gemological study and buying expeditions.

Brian and Kendra Cook are seeking investors and corporate sponsorship for their community. Learn more about their work at bahiainitiative.com. @chapter:23 @chapter:2 @chapter:23


# Publication Year: 1990
# Title: The Identification of Blue Diffusion-Treated Sapphires
# Abstract: Blue diffusion-treated sapphires are becoming more prevalent than ever before. The diffusion technique, which involves the addition of color-causing chemicals during heat treatment, results in a thin layer of color at the surface of colorless or light-colored sapphire. The color was found to be stable to routine cleaning procedures; however, it may be partially or completely removed if the stone is repolished or recut. Recently, significant quantities of so-called "deep" diffusion-treated sapphires have entered the market. This article documents the properties of these and other blue diffusion-treated sapphires, and presents means of identifying this method using simple gemological tests. @chapter:19 @chapter:1 @chapter:19


# Publication Year: 2016
# Title: Blue HPHT Synthetic Diamond Over 10 Carats
# Abstract: Figure 1. This 10.08 ct (13.54 × 11.39 × 7.36 mm) HPHT-grown diamond, with color equivalent to Fancy Deep blue, was the largest HPHT synthetic to date. Photo by Johnny Leung.

	In September 2016, GIA’s Hong Kong laboratory tested a 10.08 ct blue synthetic diamond grown by the high-pressure, high-temperature (HPHT) method. This was the largest HPHT synthetic diamond recorded to date. It was also the largest HPHT blue synthetic diamond GIA has examined, surpassing a 5.27 ct sample examined by the Hong Kong lab in May 2016 (see more on the two previous record holders). The manufacturer of all three stones is New Diamond Technology (NDT) in St. Petersburg, Russia.

	The 10.08 ct emerald cut measured 13.54 × 11.39 × 7.36 mm and had a color grade equivalent to Fancy Deep blue (figure 1). The client submitted the stone for scientific examination and disclosed that it was a synthetic diamond. Magnification revealed very weak color zoning with a banded structure. A few very small metallic inclusions and fractures were observed, resulting in a clarity grade equivalent to SI1. Microscopic examination with crossed polarizers showed no detectable strain, indicating a very low density of dislocations. Fluorescence images collected using the DiamondView revealed the distinctive “hourglass” growth pattern, which are significant in revealing HPHT growth. Strong blue phosphorescence, another indicator, was also detected. These images were dominated by the {111} growth sector, which had much stronger blue fluorescence. The {100} growth sector with very weak fluorescence was much smaller, indicating this synthetic diamond was produced with dominant octahedral growth. It also exhibited a strong red-orange fluorescence to long-wave UV radiation and a yellow fluorescence to short-wave UV (figure 2), both of which are uncommon.

	Figure 2. The blue synthetic diamond showed strong red-orange fluorescence to long-wave UV radiation and yellow fluorescence to short-wave UV. Photos by Johnny Leung.

	Infrared absorption spectroscopy confirmed this was a type IIb diamond, with a strong absorption band at ~2800 cm–1 in its infrared absorption spectrum attributed to boron impurity. Photoluminescence analysis was conducted at liquid nitrogen temperature with varying laser excitations showed it was surprisingly pure, with no detectable impurity-related emissions.

	Based on these gemological and spectroscopic features, we concluded that this sample was an HPHT synthetic diamond. This offered another indication of the rapid progress in HPHT synthetic technology, which offers an option for the diamond jewelry industry as well as many promising industrial and research applications. NDT also plans to offer large colorless and blue HPHT-grown diamonds made from unique donor carbon “DNA,” such as car leather and wood trim that have been turned into ultra-clean graphite. With standard protocols in place at GIA laboratories, every type of synthetic diamond on the market can be confidently identified. @chapter:9 @chapter:1 @chapter:9


# Publication Year: 2021
# Title: Dyed Non-Nacreous Pearls
# Abstract: Figure 1. These four non-nacreous pink and light pink pearls submitted for identification weighed (left to right) 1.30, 2.88, 4.41, and 5.88 ct. Photo by Lhapsin Nillapat.
Recently, 90 items purported to be pearls were submitted to GIA’s Bangkok laboratory for identification. While the majority were confirmed to be natural pearls, four samples warranted further study. Each of these four samples exhibited a non-nacreous surface, and on first impression they appeared to be conch pearls owing to their pink and light pink coloration. Their measurements ranged from 6.53 × 5.11 × 4.92 mm to 10.64 × 10.46 × 7.28 mm, and they weighed 1.30, 2.88, 4.41, and 5.88 ct, respectively (figure 1).

Figure 2. A: Red dye visible within surface-reaching features of the 1.30 ct pearl; field of view 3.60 mm. B: Red dye concentrated in and around surface-reaching features of the 2.88 ct pearl; field of view 2.88 mm. C: An underlying white area where the red dye did not cause discoloration of the 4.41 ct pearl. Flame structure is evident in the white area; field of view 7.20 mm. D: Clear flame structure with areas of pink dye concentrated in the surface features of the 5.88 ct pearl; field of view 7.20 mm. Photomicrographs by Kwanreun Lawanwong.
Observation through a 10× loupe and a microscope revealed that the samples were non-nacreous pearls. However, it was also readily apparent that the colors had been modified and were not natural. The 1.30 ct pearl exhibited the flame-like structure routinely observed in pearls such as conch, but the obvious red dye visible over the entire surface made it difficult to determine whether the flame structure was really present (figure 2A). The 2.88 ct pearl displayed a subtle flame structure, and some pink dye was visible on the surface and within many surface blemishes (figure 2B). Some surface areas of the 4.41 ct pearl showed the original bodycolor (figure 2C), but much of the surface showed the same dye features seen in the previous two pearls. Finally, the 5.88 ct pearl exhibited a nice flame pattern throughout, with some surface areas on the base and circumference modified by working (The Pearl Book, CIBJO Pearl Commission, 2020; N. Nilpetploy et al., “A study on improving the surface appearance of low-quality Pinctada maxima bead cultured pearls,” GIA Research News, March 24, 2021).
The color origin of this pearl was a little more challenging to identify because most areas were a lighter color, and as a result, the color modification evidence was harder to see with the unaided eye. However, magnification revealed pink dye concentrations within cracks on the base and in some surface-reaching structural features (figure 2D). Real-time microradiography (RTX) revealed a variety of structures within the pearls. The organic-rich and void features observed could be interpreted as characteristic of some non-bead cultured pearls. While they may be considered suspect, similar features have been observed in natural non-nacreous pearls (E. Fritsch and E.B. Misiorowski, “The history and gemology of Queen conch ‘pearls’,” Winter 1987 G&G, pp. 208–221; S. Singbamroong et al., “Observations on natural non-nacreous pearls reportedly from Tridacna (clam) species),” 34th International Gemmological Conference, Vilnius, Lithuania, 2015; Summer 2018 Lab Notes, pp. 211–212). To date, there have been no reports of any commercially produced non-nacreous cultured pearls in the market. Thus, based on surface observations and their internal structures, they were identified as treated-color natural non-nacreous pearls.

Figure 3. Photoluminescence spectra of the four pearls together with the spectrum of a pink conch pearl from GIA’s reference database. The spectra of the treated pearls differ from that of the conch pearl, which shows a series of very clear polyenic peaks. These peaks are characteristic of many naturally colored porcelaneous pearls.
Further examination under long-wave ultraviolet radiation showed a weak to moderate red reaction over the colored areas, while the white area on the 4.41 ct pearl and the lighter-colored areas on the 5.88 ct pearl exhibited bluish reactions of moderate to strong intensity. Ultraviolet-visible (UV-Vis) reflectance spectra revealed absorption features expected for pink pearls in the visible range, but the absorption patterns differed from those typical of naturally colored conch pearls. Raman spectra collected using a 514 nm laser revealed peaks (doublet) related to the vibration modes of aragonite at 702 and 705 cm–1. All of the pearls showed additional weak peaks at 485, 640, and 827 cm–1 and less-defined features between 1000 and 1700 cm–1. However, none were associated with the polyenic peaks observed in most naturally colored non-nacreous pearls (Summer 2017 Lab Notes, pp. 230–231; Summer 2018 Lab Notes, pp. 211–212). The photoluminescence spectra also differed from those expected for naturally colored pink conch pearls and lacked the obvious polyenic peaks routinely observed in such pearls (figure 3).
Surface observation using the loupe and microscope combined with the results obtained from advanced analyses on the colored surface areas led us to conclude that the colors of the four pearls had been modified. While this is not so surprising when it comes to nacreous pearls, it is, from the author’s experience, more unusual to encounter color-modified natural non-nacreous pearls. Since these samples appeared visually similar to conch pearls, we can speculate that the original white or lightly colored pearls were dyed pink to imitate those produced by the Queen conch mollusk (Lobatus gigas, formerly known as Strombus gigas). This would make sense based on consumer demand in the market. However, the exact reason for treating these particular samples is unknown. @chapter:11 @chapter:4 @chapter:11


# Publication Year: 2022
# Title: Fraudulently Inscribed Synthetic Moissanite
# Abstract: Figure 1. This 1.71 ct square modified brilliant bears a fraudulent GIA inscription. Photo by Sushant Shinde.
Stones with fraudulent GIA inscriptions are frequently reported. To verify diamond identity, GIA recently announced a diamond matching service using GIA Match iD, based on laser inscription imaging. In most cases of fraud, the inscribed material is diamond (Fall 2017 Lab Notes, p. 366), but there has also been a report involving non-diamond materials (Fall 2020 Lab Notes, pp. 424–425). A similar case was recently identified.

Figure 2. The fraudulent inscription on the synthetic moissanite. Photo by Sandesh Mali.
The Mumbai laboratory received a 1.71 ct square modified brilliant (figure 1) for update service. The girdle was inscribed with “GIA” and a number matching an existent report, although the font was different from that of an actual GIA inscription (figure 2). The inscribed report number matched one for a natural diamond, a 1.71 ct square modified brilliant cut. Compared with a typical laser inscription from the GIA laboratory, this one was significantly different. Gemological and spectroscopic examination confirmed that the brilliant was synthetic moissanite. In addition to diamonds and synthetic moissanite, GIA has previously identified laser inscriptions on cubic zirconia, diaspore, emerald, garnet, ruby, sapphire, spinel, tanzanite, and other materials. @chapter:52 @chapter:1 @chapter:52


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Strain-Induced Birefringence in Natural Diamond: A Review
# Abstract: Diamond belongs to the cubic crystal system and should therefore exhibit isotropic optical properties. However, it has long been documented that diamonds often show weak birefringence. This study has focused on the causes of strain-induced birefringence in natural diamonds. Dislocations, lattice parameter variations, inclusions, fractures and plastic deformation are the causes of strain-induced birefringence in diamonds.

Strain patterns shed light on the internal stresses within the stone, which in turn give indications as to the growth and transport history of the diamond. The imaging of diamonds between crossed polarizers still remains a simple and rapid technique for obtaining visual information on strain patterns in diamonds.

Abstracted by Guy Lalous @chapter:29 @chapter:1 @chapter:29


# Publication Year: 2019
# Title: Studies on Tourmaline, Sapphire, Cultured Pearl, and a Reliquary of Legend…
# Abstract: Spring is always a time of renewal. For our industry, early February marks the Tucson gem shows, the first big event of the season, where buyers are tempted with colored gems of every type and price. Similarly, there is truly something for everyone in our Spring 2019 edition.
We begin with multicolored tourmalines; few gems encompass such a rich variety of colors. In our lead article, GIA’s Ziyin Sun, Aaron Palke, and Christopher Breeding join Louisiana State University’s Barbara Dutrow to present a simplified classification system for tourmaline species using laser ablation–inductively coupled plasma–mass spectrometry (LA-ICP-MS) analysis of major trace elements.

“A simplified classification system for tourmaline species using LA-ICP-MS……”

Our second study unites researchers based in Switzerland, Bahrain, and Scotland. Age dating of sulfide inclusions in diamonds using radiogenic decay systems is well known, but for gemologists, applying similar analyses to zircon inclusions in corundum is an emerging practice. Lead author Emilie Elmaleh tells us more about the age and origin of sapphires from two Sri Lankan alluvial deposits.
Next, a team headed by Gerard Panczer of France’s Claude Bernard University Lyon 1 contributes the first scientific, gemological analysis of the fascinating Talisman of Charlemagne. This historical, bejeweled container of holy relics—or reliquary—is a rare masterpiece of the goldsmith’s art dating back to the ninth century.
The authors of our fourth paper use a combination of LA-ICP-MS and multivariate analysis to compare the trace-element concentrations of two groups of cultured freshwater pearls (one from China, one from the United States) with natural pearls found in the U.S. This study, by Artitaya Homkrajae and her GIA team, provides the prospect of greater confidence identifying pearls of freshwater origin.
In our fifth paper, regular contributor Karl Schmetzer investigates the color appearance of faceted alexandrite, where the quest for the best color change is complicated by this biaxial gem’s inherent pleochroism. Through direct observation of synthetic alexandrite samples, he documents the impact of the inevitable multiple internal reflections on placement of a faceted gem’s table facet and its perceived color change and pleochroism.
Our final paper is a field report on Ethiopia, a new land of opportunity for colored gems. The 2016 discovery of fine emerald at Shakiso in the southern part of the country, coupled with the 2017 news of sapphires from northern Tigray Province, prompted a 2018 GIA field expedition. Led by field gemologist Wim Vertriest, the group documented mining and processing, measured social impact, and collected samples for GIA’s reference collection.
Our regular columns also provide plenty of interest. Our Lab Notes section features the largest diamond ever discovered in North America, Burmese color-change sapphire, and a synthetic diamond containing a CVD layer grown on natural diamond. In Diamonds from the Deep, Karen Smit and Steven Shirey examine fundamental questions around the ages of natural diamonds and the lessons we can draw from this information, while Micro-World offers a glimpse into the internal world of condor agate from Argentina, grandidierite inclusions in sapphire, and a fossil insect in opal. Our Gem News International section has more than 30 pages covering the 2019 Tucson shows, blending market insights with a fascinating display of gems from around the world.
As is customary, this issue contains the annual G&G Challenge: We invite you to test your gemological knowledge and skills of recall in the 2019 quiz. Finally, congratulations to our 2018 Dr. Edward J. Gübelin Most Valuable Article Award winners.
Welcome to the 2019 Spring edition of Gems & Gemology! @chapter:30 @chapter:0 @chapter:30


# Publication Year: 2019
# Title: Potentate’s Montana Sapphire Mine: An Interview with Warren Boyd
# Abstract: Figure 1. Rough Montana sapphires in a range of colors. Photo by Albert Salvato, courtesy of Potentate Mining.

The history of the American West is told in stories of frontiersmen seeking fortune in gold and other precious metals. It was serendipity when these intrepid adventurers arrived in western Montana and discovered strange, shiny pebbles—sapphires—while looking for gold. Little did they know the gem wealth they had uncovered with the sapphires, which were simply a nuisance to the gold miners at first. More than 100 years later, this legacy of mining is carried on by several small-scale miners across Montana, and with the arrival of Potentate Mining at the Rock Creek sapphire deposit. We had the chance to sit down in Tucson with Potentate’s director of marketing, Warren Boyd, for an update on their mining activities and their plans to find a place for Montana sapphires in the market.
Sapphire mining can be challenging in the rugged Montana terrain. Harsh winters limit the mining season to about six months a year, and even then water shortages can make mining difficult. The year 2017 saw extreme wildfires that forced the mine to be evacuated several times. Despite these challenges, 2018 was Potentate’s third year at full production, yielding more than 100 kg of rough sapphire each mining season. In 2018, the mine commissioned a new processing facility with a larger throughput, which will allow Potentate to process more gravel and produce more sapphires each year. The facility features a gold recovery circuit to recover the fine gold that is produced along with the sapphires. Potentate has also devoted significant resources to protect the beautiful wild areas in which they mine, and a strict rehabilitation program is in place. They are only allowed to disturb five acres at a time, and after rehabilitation there will be little evidence of their mining activities. A water clarifier has also been implemented to purify their processing waters. This is important to protect the pristine trout fishing streams in the area.
The sapphires come in a range of colors (see above), from fine deep blues to fancy yellows, oranges, and pinks, and there are very rare Montana rubies. Some stones come out of the ground with a fine natural color, but the bulk of the production requires heat treatment to bring out these colors. Less than 1% of the sapphires recovered will end up as faceted stones in the 2–6 ct range, with most of the production cutting stones from 0.25 to 0.99 ct. Some extremely large stones have been produced, however. In the last mining season, Potentate recovered a 64.14 ct rough sapphire, the largest gem-quality sapphire ever found in Montana.
Potentate first exhibited at the Tucson shows in 2018, with a booth in the AGTA GemFair. With mining activities proceeding at full speed, Potentate’s focus now is to create market awareness of their commercial-scale production of sapphires, which represents a reliable supply of stones. Their big challenge is not finding a market for their rare large stones, but moving large quantities of small and mid-sized stones. Potentate is building relationships with jewelry manufacturers that have the capacity to find a market for Montana sapphires in the 0.5 ct range. The main markets are in the United States and Canada, but Boyd has seen interest growing internationally as well. Social media has been an important tool for Potentate, and they have started exporting stones to clients in India, Hong Kong, Sri Lanka, and Europe. Montana sapphires have even found a substantial market in sapphire-producing countries such as Australia, where consumers might be looking for their unique pastel colors that are different from those sourced domestically. With their significant investments in mining infrastructure and a clear strategy for getting stones to the market, Potentate Mining could make a substantial impact in the story of Montana sapphires.

	Potentate's Montana Sapphires @chapter:34 @chapter:3 @chapter:34


# Publication Year: 1992
# Title: Dyed Natural Corundum as a Ruby Imitation
# Abstract: The gemological properties of a new ruby imitation, produced by dyeing natural colorless to pale-colored corundum, are described. Microscopic and spectroscopic examination revealed a number of diagnostic features: fluorescence of the dye-containing fissures but not the surrounding corundum, red deposits on the fracture planes, and the absence of a 694-nm (chromium) doublet in the spectrum. @chapter:10 @chapter:0 @chapter:10


# Publication Year: 2018
# Title: Colombian Emerald Industry: The New Generation
# Abstract: Following author AL’s 2015 visit to Colombian emerald mines and cutting operations, we again had the opportunity to interview two representatives from this important source country. As part of the new generation of the Colombian emerald industry, both shared with us their experience and vision for the industry.

Luis Gabriel Angarita, director of the CDTEC gem laboratory in Bogotá, comes from a family that has been heavily involved in the industry for over 40 years. Since 2009, Angarita has been working on branding Colombian emerald. He recently resigned as president of the Association of Colombian Emerald Exporters and is working full-time for the gem lab. Angarita updated us on the large production coming from the Chivor mines. He said that while the production has been low for over 20 years, the quality of extracted stones is quite high.

Even though Angarita no longer heads the exporters association, promoting Colombian emerald as a brand is still at the top of his list of priorities. He sees several challenges in branding the Colombian emerald. First, the Colombian emerald industry lacks a well-accepted standard. This causes inconsistency between different players and makes it extremely hard to face the global market as a unified entity. Effectively educating consumers is another obstacle in branding. Angarita admitted that the Chinese market has the greatest potential for emerald. However, most Chinese consumers only want emeralds with no oiling. Goods with moderate oiling are almost unsellable. This misunderstanding of emerald value factors hinders the stone’s promotion. Inconsistent description among major gem laboratories further complicates the situation. Angarita also shared some information about a new emerald treatment being developed in Colombia. Finally, he informed us that the second World Emerald Symposium will be held in Bogotá in October 2018.

Luis Gabriel Angarita and the Emerald IndustryLuis Gabriel Angarita talks about the challenges present in today’s emerald market.
Edwin Molina, a fourth-generation Colombian emerald miner, serves on the board of directors of the Cunas mine in Santa Rosa. He also became president of APRECOL (the Association of Emerald Producers of Colombia) in 2017. Molina’s family has played a critical role in emerald mining in the Muzo area, and he was partially responsible for the transaction that formed today’s Muzo International. The family later switched its interest to the Cunas mine, which has been a joint venture with foreign investors since 2009 and is now one of the biggest in the area. According to Molina, production from Cunas is quite large. Although the mine typically lacks the very high-end stones with large sizes like those from Muzo, the quality is very stable. Compared to other operations in Muzo, Cunas is more controllable because its entrance is located far from the extraction points. There are three emerald-bearing zones in the mining concession, and so far only one is being worked on. Therefore, Cunas still has plenty of potential.

Molina also related his experience during this profound transformation from a family business to a formal mining corporation. He admitted that at the beginning of this journey, building trust with the investors was a challenge due to lack of supporting data from previous miners and operations. When he became involved, a new emphasis was put on formalizing the operation through environmental protection, infrastructure construction, and mining community building. Molina informed us that the mine would focus on increasing production by working on more extraction points within the 0.6 km2 concession. This is very important because foreign investment will dry up if the mine has no production for a prolonged period, as has happened before in the Muzo area. Another important factor in attracting and keeping foreign investors is the security of the mine and production. With the support of the national police, a local police department will soon be formed to help with security. Molina has always believed that the only thing investors need to worry about is the production of a mine. As a miner and businessman who grew up in the United States and went back to his motherland of Colombia, Molina wants local miners to go out and see the world. Putting the industry in a global framework will enable them to adapt to a new environment and seize new opportunities.

A Talk with Edwin Molina
Fourth-generation emerald miner Edwin Molina discusses the Cunas mine and relates his own industry experiences.
During the interviews, both Angarita and Molina expressed confidence in the future of the Colombian emerald industry and optimism about global demand for this “Mother Gem” of Colombia. @chapter:50 @chapter:3 @chapter:50


# Publication Year: 2019
# Title: Conversation with Color Source Gems
# Abstract: Figure 1. Moshe Chalchinsky of Color Source Gems acquired this emerald rough in matrix in Nova Era, Brazil, in the 1980s. Since then it has accompanied him to every trade show. Photo by Kevin Schumacher, courtesy of Color Source Gems.
Rough emerald crystals in a black host rock (figure 1) at the Color Source Gems booth stood out against the AGTA show’s variety of cut stones and jewelry. Moshe Chalchinsky, president of New York–based Color Source, first admired the specimen on a supplier’s desk during a buying trip to Brazil. Later, upon receiving the shipment of emeralds he had purchased, he was surprised to find the rough among them. For more than 30 years, it has accompanied him to every show. “It’s like a mascot, a good luck charm,” said Rachel Chalchinsky, his wife and the company’s executive vice president. Although many have wanted to buy the emerald, it is not for sale.
While the emerald rough is their mascot, Color Source Gems has traditionally specialized in ruby, sapphire, and emerald (cut stones and jewelry). Moshe said that the current trend is more affordable gems, so they are branching out into tsavorite, spinel, and rhodolite. This year spinel was very popular—especially gray spinel, according to Rachel—and visitors were particularly drawn to the grape-like purple of their rhodolite garnets. Large pieces are harder to move, Moshe said. On a recent trip to Sri Lanka and Bangkok, he bought stones mostly between 1 and 5 carats.

	Moshe and Rachel Chalchinsky tell us about the emerald rough “mascot.”

Rachel said the gemstones they look for—clean, well cut, and well defined, with beautiful, consistent color—have become less available and more expensive. They stick to classic jewelry designs such as three-stone rings and tennis bracelets. Moshe said the market has changed because jewelry is often sold on memo now, which is not easy to compete with. They have begun focusing more on stones; two of their sons have joined the business and are also more interested in stones than jewelry.

Figure 2. The trend toward parti-color and fancy-color sapphires is exemplified by this 4.08 ct specimen. Photo courtesy of Color Source Gems.
Rachel sees social media, primarily Instagram, as a major force in the demand for colored stones. Instagram influencers, she said, are increasing the desire for stones people may not have been aware of, like Malaya garnet. People want something different now, a little out of the box, according to Moshe. Rachel noted that there’s a big trend toward parti-color and fancy-color sapphires (figure 2) because they are different from traditional sapphire.
While Rachel is the fourth generation of a family in the industry, Moshe was new to the trade 35 years ago. After coming to the United States from Israel, he studied marketing and then sold insurance. He played soccer with people in the jewelry industry, one of whom invited Moshe to work for him. “I was running on 47th Street, up and down, knocking on doors,” he said. In the mid-1980s, he founded MCR Gems (renamed Color Source Gems in 2015). Moshe first came to Tucson more than 20 years ago.
Asked what’s important to him from day to day, Moshe said, “It’s about service….and trust. And I always treat my suppliers the right way.” Rachel added that Color Source has had some of the same suppliers for over 30 years.
“We can’t say no to anybody,” one of Moshe’s sons told him recently. “If it exists, tell them ‘I’ll find it for you.” @chapter:17 @chapter:0 @chapter:17


# Publication Year: 2020
# Title: Ethical Gem Fair
# Abstract: Figure 1. A selection of gemstones from Anza Gems. All of these stones were sourced in Tanzania, including the set of rough sapphires that was mined in Tanga province. Each stone can be traced back to the individual miner who unearthed the gem. Photo by Kevin Schumacher.

Tucson’s first Ethical Gem Fair, a platform for responsibly sourced gemstone suppliers to highlight their products and projects, was held February 3–6 at the Scottish Rite Cathedral. This was the first Ethical Gem Fair in the United States after being held in London and Edinburgh the last three years.
The Tucson event was a collaboration between suppliers Nineteen48, Capricorn Gems, Perpetuum Jewels, Nature’s Geometry, Agere Treasures, Columbia Gem House, and Anza Gems. They share a commitment to supply chain ethics, mine-to-market traceability, environmental and health and safety regulations, and supporting artisanal miners and communities.

	Monica Stephenson, founder of Seattle-based Anza Gems

Monica Stephenson, founder and president of Seattle-based Anza Gems, said her travels to East Africa to purchase rough have shown her that miners need to be educated about the value they bring to the supply chain. Ten percent of Anza’s proceeds go to education at the mining communities.
Anza Gems is a partner of Moyo Gemstones, a responsibly sourced gemstone program that was sparked by GIA’s artisanal mining education program. The pilot effort, a collaboration between GIA, Pact, and the Tanzania Women Miners Association (TAWOMA), focused on women miners in Tanga, Tanzania. After initial training, they were more knowledgeable about the mined gemstones but lacked a platform to bring them to the market. Stephenson saw potential here, and together with Pact and TAWOMA she founded Moyo Gemstones. The program provides a marketplace for gemstone transactions, offers free occupational health and safety training, and helps ensure that all miners are legally registered.
Stephenson said that before the program these miners would get a few dollars for gems from a broker, with no visibility into their value in the supply chain. Moyo has changed this through education. “For the miner to understand what she has and the value of those gems, and also to be taking home more like 95% of the export price, and pay her broker, is a complete reversal of the roles,” Stephenson said. “This is truly a paradigm shift in this region. For her to have the income and financial sort of independence is enormous.”
Each gem can be traced back to the miner, Stephenson said, and it’s important to share that story with the consumer. “They need to know that what they’re buying not only makes a difference, and not only does it not cause harm, but it actually is beneficial.”
Anza Gems’ offerings (figure 1) included sapphire, multiple colors of garnet, tourmaline, citrine, amethyst, zircon, and Mahenge spinel.

	Brian Cook, owner of Nature’s Geometry in Tucson

Brian Cook, owner of Nature’s Geometry (Tucson), began selling crystals as a geology student almost 30 years ago. This took him to a remote area of Bahia, Brazil, where rutilated quartz is mined. He felt a strong connection to the place and made it his second home. Since then he has advocated for the development of resources more sustainable than mining so the community can rely on them when mining ends.
Cook told us about their project in Bahia to benefit the artisanal mining community. The first initiative will raise funds for dust masks for the miners, at least half of whom have no dust protection for underground mining. Second, he envisions a model of investment in regenerative agriculture to create food security, improve nutrition, and implement carbon sequestration. The area’s soil is so rich that it allows for farming of crops such as cacao, coffee, acai, and many others. The third component will be teaching lapidary skills.
Eighty percent of colored gemstones are mined by small-scale and artisanal miners, according to Cook. “This project could serve as a model for our industry at large,” he said. While he recognizes that every situation is different, food, water, and energy will always be the basic needs of every being, and guaranteeing them can uplift a community.

Figure 2. Rough rutilated quartz from Bahia, Brazil. Photo by Kevin Schumacher.
Cook showed us several pieces of rutilated quartz from Bahia, including a sizable piece of rough (figure 2). Nature’s Geometry has been cutting the material since 1989. Each piece is unique, which Cook said is something the younger generation likes.
Cook said the response to the fair has been “phenomenal.” He predicts it will grow in future years, with more vendors and a greater variety of stones.

	Ian Bone, manager of Capricorn Gems in Australia

Ian Bone, manager of Capricorn Gems (Central Queensland, Australia) said the Ethical Gem Fair was created to meet the needs of designers and customers who want a gemstone’s mine-to-market story. “There’s undoubtedly a generational shift happening,” he said. “Customers want to know that the pieces are brought to market in the most responsible manner possible. We see this as the cutting edge of jewelry design and in fact the future of the jewelry industry.”
Bone said that because Australia’s mining industry already has strong regulations for safety, the environment, energy, and land reclamation, it could serve as an example for other mining communities around the world.

Figure 3. Capricorn Gems’ chrysoprase from Marlborough, Central Queensland. Photo by Kevin Schumacher.
Bone, a Central Queensland native, has built his business around local gemstones: boulder opal, chrysoprase, zircon, and sapphire. He is able to witness the entire process, from mining to cutting to consumer sales. He showed us a selection of chrysoprase from Marlborough, Central Queensland (figure 3). “Marlborough has some of the best chrysoprase in the world,” he said. “Chrysoprase is an unusual gem because you can get a whole set of qualities of that stone, from dollars a pound up to dollars a carat.”
Bone said Capricorn Gems is breaking down boundaries between sourcing, production, and sales. They share their images, videos, and stories of mining with designers for use in their own marketing. One example is a booklet showcasing the works of designers around the world who use stones from Capricorn Gems. “The client knows that their designer knows and trusts the gem supplier and knows where that material comes from,” he said.

Figure 4. Ethiopian opal from Agere Treasures. Photo by Kevin Schumacher.

	Hewan Zewd, founder of Agere Treasures in Lynnwood, Washington

Hewan Zewdi, founder of Agere Treasures (Lynnwood, Washington), was born and raised in Ethiopia and moved to Seattle 14 years ago. There she earned her G.G. through GIA Distance Education. When Ethiopian opal (figure 4) was discovered in 2008–2009, people began calling from home to ask if she had a market for them. “That’s what I study—that’s what I want to do,” she told them.
At the Denver Gem & Mineral Show, Zewdi’s first trade show, she saw Ethiopian opal dealers undervaluing their material and advised them to increase their prices. She also began buying stones from them to sell in her local market in Washington. Her commitment increased when emeralds were discovered in southern Ethiopia. Agere Treasures now offers opal, emerald, amazonite, yellow labradorite, garnet, zircon, tourmaline, and sapphire.
Part of Zewdi’s profits go to a new project to train young women in basic gemology and jewelry design. She also donates books on rocks and gems to the Ethiopian Ministry of Mining, and she assists the organization in obtaining gemstone identification at GIA so the stones can be priced accordingly by exporters in Ethiopia.
“Here everybody has the same mission, the same vision,” Zewdi said of the Ethical Gem Fair. “To give back and get the material traceably and responsibly, without hurting the environment or the artisanal miner, by creating a fair trade and a fair price.”
Buyers at the Ethical Gem Fair were younger people and designers looking for a stone with a story. They want to know about the supply chain for almost every product they use, including jewelry. The show’s suppliers offer as much transparency as possible to their customers, often providing supporting information about the stones, such as images from the mines and cutting factories. Everyone involved in the show sees a growing demand for responsibly sourced gemstones.
Articles on two other exhibitors, Perpetuum Jewels and Columbia Gem House, can be found in the Spring 2019 G&G. @chapter:38 @chapter:3 @chapter:38


# Publication Year: 2023
# Title: Natural Diamond with CVD-Like Fluorescence Pattern
# Abstract: DiamondView imaging of the pavilion facets for this HPHT-treated natural diamond shows graining and zoning that resemble those of a laboratory-grown CVD diamond with HPHT treatment. The inset shows the DiamondView image of an HPHT-treated CVD-grown diamond. Images by Jemini Sawant.
Fluorescence images collected using the DiamondView are very useful in identifying whether a diamond is natural or laboratory grown (S. Eaton-Magaña and J.E. Shigley, “Observations on CVD-grown synthetic diamonds: A review,” Fall 2016 G&G, pp. 222–245). In many cases, type II natural diamonds show varying dislocation networks in these images. Meanwhile, high-pressure, high-temperature (HPHT) synthetic diamonds show cuboctahedral growth patterns, and chemical vapor deposition (CVD) laboratory-grown diamonds show growth striations.
The Mumbai laboratory recently received a 0.40 ct colorless round brilliant for diamond grading service. Spectroscopy identified it as a type IIa diamond, and it was examined further for color origin determination. DiamondView imaging showed uncommon and interesting patterns. In the figure above, the lower right is dominated by green fluorescence while the upper left shows mainly blue fluorescence, with a clear and straight boundary. Detailed examination revealed numerous sharp and clear dislocation lines in multiple orientations in both parts of this diamond. These dislocation lines were introduced by plastic deformation and provide strong evidence that the diamond crystallized in nature. It should be pointed out that the interface layer seen in the fluorescence image is uncommon for natural diamonds but similar to that of CVD laboratory-grown diamonds. Further photoluminescence spectroscopy analysis confirmed this natural diamond was treated by annealing under high pressure and high temperature to improve its color, reinforcing our assertion that advanced analytical study is often crucial in identifying a diamond.
Natural diamonds with fluorescence patterns similar to those of HPHT synthetic diamonds have also been reported previously (Spring 2013 Lab Notes, pp. 45–46). With recent advances in technology, manufactured diamonds with unique features have become more widely available on the market. Therefore, it is more important than ever to scrutinize each feature to ensure the appropriate identification results in such scenarios. Since natural and manufactured diamonds are structurally identical, we often need to rely on advanced gemological and spectroscopic data, particularly for such low-nitrogen diamonds, to correctly identify their origin. @chapter:9 @chapter:1 @chapter:9


# Publication Year: -
# Title: African Students Discover the Wonder of Gems
# Abstract: Thirty-five students from Johannesburg, South Africa, and Gaborone, Botswana, eager to get their first glimpse of gemology – from rough crystals to finished jewelry pieces – learned the basics of gemology, mineralogy and geology when GIA brought its Junior Gemologist Program workshops to Johannesburg and Gaborone for the first time.

In April 2012, students from Tshwaragano Primary School, Ikageng Primary School, Legae Academy and Mogoditshane Community Junior Secondary School, all in Gaborone, and PS Tsosane Primary School in Johannesburg, participated in the program. This was the first time that GIA offered the program in either country.

“Their fascination was evident during the science portions of the presentation,” said instructor Andy Lucas, product manager of gemology for GIA. “They were amazed when I showed them how gemstones form and where they come from. Their excitement grew as I explained how the rarity and romance of gemstones was tied to the science.”

The students, ages 10-15, also received hands-on, practical training with loupes and other specialized gemological equipment as they learned to identify and assess gems such as quartz, fluorite, corundum and calcite.

“Their excitement turned to outright exuberance,” Lucas said. “We practiced what they had learned about gemstone durability with hardness tests and showed them where each fell on the Mohs scale. I also demonstrated the basic principles of hardness and how stones of equal hardness can scratch each other – how diamond can scratch diamond, for example.”

The students also learned how to use standard gemological tools, including locking tweezers, a stone cloth and a jeweler’s loupe.

“The jeweler’s loupe was very popular: everyone wanted to look like a professional when they louped a stone,” he said. “They actually started out by looking at fingerprints – not the ones in stones, but the ones on their fingers.”

Lucas said the greatest excitement and fun happened when the students observed inclusions in gems using a professional gemological microscope.

“I loved seeing the awe in their faces as they discovered the horsetails, included crystals, multi-phase inclusions and fingerprints, inside stones,” he said.

Some students were so inspired by what they learned, they changed their career plans.

“I now want to be a gemologist. I wanted to be a graphic designer before because I’m good at design. This is my first time learning about diamonds,” wrote Maphanga Njabulo, an 11 year-old from PS Tsosane Primary School in Johannesburg. @chapter:34 @chapter:2 @chapter:34


# Publication Year: 2024
# Title: Natural Orange Diamond with Unusual Absorption Features
# Abstract: Figure 1. A 0.16 ct Fancy Vivid orange pear (left) and 0.23 ct Fancy Intense orange pear (right). Photos by Towfiq Ahmed.

Figure 2. Fancy Vivid orange color distribution with strong zoning related to crystal growth. Photo by A’Dhi Lall.
Orange is a very desirable color for diamond in the gem trade. GIA’s New York laboratory received two type Ia (nitrogen-bearing) orange diamonds for colored diamond grading service, one 0.16 ct Fancy Vivid orange and the other 0.23 ct Fancy Intense orange (figure 1). Both diamonds showed orange fluorescence to long-wave and short-wave UV, along with few inclusions (clarity grades of VS2 and VVS1, respectively) and strong color zoning related to crystal growth (figure 2).

Figure 3. Ultraviolet/visible/near-infrared spectra of the Fancy Vivid orange and Fancy Intense orange diamonds are shown with several peaks and bands that combine to create these very rare colors. Spectra are offset vertically for clarity.
This diamond hue is often caused by a broad-band absorption at 480 nm. While the 480 nm band was observed in both diamonds, it was supplemented by the presence of a 525 nm peak and the 550 nm band along with a series of absorption features from ~700 to 780 nm with pronounced peaks at 735, 753, and 769 nm (figure 3). The 830 nm photoluminescence (PL) spectra showed very strong nickel peaks at 883/884 nm, in addition to numerous other PL features (A.M. Zaitsev, Optical Properties of Diamond: A Data Handbook, Springer-Verlag, Berlin, 2001). Thus, the 480 nm band was not the exclusive cause of color. The 550 nm band is the most common cause of color in natural pink diamond but, when present with other color centers, can contribute to many different bodycolors.
The optical defects in these orange diamonds differed from those in diamonds exclusively colored by the 480 nm band (M.Y. Lai et al., “Spectroscopic characterization of diamonds colored by the 480 nm absorption band,” Diamond and Related Materials, Vol. 142, 2024, p. 110825). The combination of an unusual absorption band in the near infrared with the 480 and 550 nm absorption bands creates a transmission window that produces the rich, warm orange hue, devoid of any secondary modifying color. This appears to be a newly identified cause of orange color in diamonds. @chapter:22 @chapter:1 @chapter:22