# Publication Year: 2015
# Title: Mexican Demantoid from New Deposits
# Abstract: Figure 1. Demantoid was recently discovered in Veracruz State, Mexico. The photo on the left shows an association of topazolite + demantoid. Demantoid crystals are seen in the photo on the right. Photos by Mikhail Ostrooumov.

	Gemologists have recognized three andradite varieties: melanite (black), topazolite (yellow-brown), and demantoid. Demantoid, the yellowish green to green variety, is the most important to the jeweler-gemologist. The traditional demantoid garnet sources are Russia (Ural Mountains) and Italy (Val Malenco and Sondrio). More than 20 years ago, small garnet crystals of pale yellowish green color were found in the Sonora andradite occurrence near the Mexican city of Hermosillo (Fall 1994 GNI, p. 194). This garnet has been classified as demantoid without any detailed gemological and mineralogical analysis.

	It is very interesting to note that in some deposits of metamorphic skarns (e.g., Kamchatka, Russia; Val Malenco, Italy; and Arizona, USA), the demantoid crystals are associated with topazolite (E.P. Kievlenko, Geology of Gems, Ocean Pictures, Littleton, Colorado, 2003). In late 2014, our investigations showed that the same mineralogical association (figure 1, left) is characteristic for the Las Vigas Mexican topazolite source (Fall 2014 GNI, pp. 246–247). These green to yellow-green garnet crystals, measuring 1.5–5.5 mm, are also hosted by the Las Vigas skarn deposits (Cerro de la Concordia, in Las Vigas de Ramirez municipality and the Piedra Parada mine in Tatatila municipality). These deposits are located in Veracruz State, about 50 km southeast of the town of Valle de Veracruz. Studying crystals from these two new Mexican deposits with different analytical techniques, the mineral was identified as demantoid garnet (figure 1, right).

	Three samples of rough demantoid (measuring 4.0–5.5 mm in the longest dimension) were characterized for this report, and the following gemological properties were determined: color—green; polariscope reaction—isotropic and weakly anisotropic; weak strain birefringence; RI—nα = 1.888–1.889; very strong dispersion, at 0.055 (visual indicator identification); hydrostatic SG—3.82–3.88; fluorescence—inert to both long- and short-wave UV radiation.

	The garnet composition was determined by means of electron microprobe analysis (EPMA), using a total of 15 analysis points. Standard conditions of 20 kV, 20 mA, and 1 µm beam size were used with a JEOL JSM-35c microprobe. The analyses showed little compositional heterogeneity or zonation. The structural formula was calculated on the basis of 12 oxygen atoms, yielding an average approximate composition of (Ca2.96 Fe2+0.08)3.04 Fe3+2.05 Si2.94O12. This structural formula has an abundance at the X-site and Y-site cations but is close to electroneutrality due to the sum of the positive and negative charges (Wc = +23.99; Wa = –24.00). The EPMA-WDS data showed that these green garnets were almost pure andradite (And 95.60 mol.%). No chromium was detected in the chemical composition of the studied crystals.

	Infrared transmission spectra were measured with a Bruker Tensor 27 FTIR spectrometer, scanning from 4000 to 400 cm–1 and using the KBr pellet method. The pellets were prepared by mixing approximately 3 mg of the sample with 300 mg KBr. OPUS software was used for the spectroscopic interpretation of the infrared spectra. Raman (figure 2, left), mid-infrared (figure 2, right) and X-ray analysis confirmed that the crystals belonged to the demantoid variety (http://rruff.info). The mid-IR spectra showed the presence of hydroxyl groups. The infrared spectra consisted of a prominent band at 3420 cm–1, with a secondary band at about 3610 cm–1 due to the fundamental OH stretching vibration of water molecules, as well as the water bending vibration at approximately 1650 cm–1.

	Figure 2. Raman (left) and infrared (right) spectra of the samples confirm their demantoid garnet identity.

	UV-Vis-NIR spectroscopy showed absorption bands at 403, 444, 574, 617, 854, and 1170 nm, which can be assigned to spin-forbidden crystal-field transition of Fe3+, substituted on the octahedral Al3+ site of the garnet structure. Our EPMA analyses of garnet generally indicated the presence of some divalent iron. The spectra showed absorption bands in the 900–1000 nm and 1150–1250 nm ranges, which are assigned to Fe2+, and corresponding absorption features were observed at about 860 and 1170 nm. The simultaneous presence of both Fe3+ and Fe2+ means that intervalence charge transfer is possible (in accordance with A.S. Marfunin, Advanced Mineralogy, Vol. 2, Springer-Verlag, Berlin, 1995, pp. 113–114), and the 574 nm band is therefore assigned to an Fe2+→Fe3+ intervalence charge transfer band. The typical absorption bands of Cr3+ in the visible region between 630 and 690 nm are absent, consistent with the EPMA results. Our investigations have also shown that some demantoid garnets from Russia do not show any chromium absorption, and their color is due to the presence of Fe3+ alone.

	The color measuring system of the International Commission of Illumination (ICI) has been found useful for describing the color characteristics of minerals (K. Langer et al., “Optical absorption spectroscopy,” in A.S. Marfunin, Ed., Advanced Mineralogy, Vol. 2, Springer-Verlag, Berlin, 1995, pp. 119–122). The color of a mineral is assigned to a point in the x-y coordinates of the ICI color chart. Special computer programs are used to calculate the color parameters (x-y coordinates, λ—dominant wavelength, P—saturation or purity, Y—lightness) of a mineral directly from the measured optical absorption spectrum. The dominant wavelength λ, or hue, is the human eye’s psycho-sensory interpretation of wavelengths that are identified by the x-y coordinates of the ICI color chart. Preliminary colorimetric calculations showed that the colors of the Mexican demantoid have low saturation (P=20%) and lightness (Y=17%). Therefore, they are darker than pure green demantoid from other deposits (e.g., Bobrovka River in the Ural Mountains). The dominant wavelength of Mexican demantoid (λ=560 nm) is a slightly yellowish green. This combination of colorimetric parameters defines a color different from that of chromium-bearing demantoid. Measurements on the demantoid from the Urals showed higher values of saturation (P=44–50) and lightness (Y=20–37%) and a purer green hue, with λ=530–545 nm (M. Ostrooumov, “Colorimetry of minerals,” Priroda, No. 6, 1987, pp. 43–53, in Russian). Such demantoids are more attractive to the gem trade.

	Thus, electron microprobe (EPMA-WDS) chemical analyses, various spectroscopic techniques, X-ray diffraction, and standard gemological testing have confirmed the discovery of demantoid in the Las Vigas skarn deposits of Veracruz State. The discovery could represent an interesting mineralogical and gemological opportunity. Although the full range and economic potential of this demantoid has not been determined, it may well have features that distinguish it from other important deposits worldwide. @chapter:12 @chapter:0 @chapter:12


# Publication Year: 2013
# Title: Canadian Mining Industry: Taking a Step Up with Range of Operations
# Abstract: The expansion of various mining projects in Canada’s North (Northwest Territories, Yukon, and Nunavut) is set to lead the country in economic growth over the next two years. Spinoff activity is also expected to increase, based on pending mines in the assessment phase or preproduction stage, further boosting employment and local economic development. Production in these areas is expected to last well into the coming decades. Environmental groups and local residents are also interested in the impact on the Canadian North ecosystem as well as the long-term effects on the towns and industry when the boom is over.

Abstracted by Michele Kelley @chapter:34 @chapter:3 @chapter:34


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Fall 2015 G&G: Trapiche Emeralds, Synthetic Diamonds and a Large Diamond Source
# Abstract: The lead article in this issue is an in-depth study on the geological formation and growth of Colombian trapiche emeralds. The cover photo shows a 58.83 ct. crystal specimen (left) and a 22.74 ct. cabochon (right), both displaying the material’s signature six-rayed pattern, from the renowned Peñas Blancas emerald region. The host rock, seen in the background, is carbonaceous shale containing veins of calcite, pyrite and minute crystals of low-grade emerald. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA, courtesy of Jose Guillermo Ortiz and Colombian Emeralds Company, Bogota.

A report on Colombia’s unique trapiche emeralds is the cover feature of the fall 2015 issue of Gems & Gemology (G&G), which also offers an analysis of large synthetic diamonds produced in Russia and a detailed look inside the Letšeng Diamond Mine in Lesotho (the leading source for mega-sized diamonds).
Colombian Trapiche Emeralds: Recent Advances in Understanding Their Formation

Colombia’s trapiche emeralds show a distinct pattern that resembles a wheel with six spokes. They are found only in the black shales of the country’s western emerald zone near the legendary mines of Muzo, Quiopama and Coscuez.

These trapiche emeralds, all from Peñas Blancas, range from 5.09 to 22.74 carats. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA. Courtesy of Jose Guillermo Ortiz, Colombian Emerald Co.
The researchers, Dr. Isabella Pignatelli, Gaston Giuliani, Daniel Ohnenstetter, Giovanna Agrosì, Sandrine Mathieu, Christophe Morlot and Yannick Branquet, performed spectroscopic and chemical analyses on the samples to determine how they formed within their geological setting. They determined that super-pressurized fluid within the black shale helped grow the emerald seed crystals and provided a unique growth environment for them to form into trapiches.
Large Colorless HPHT-Grown Synthetic Gem Diamonds from New Diamond Technology, Russia

In the past five years, the vast majority of synthetic diamonds appearing in the gem market have been manufactured by the Chemical Vapor Deposition (CVD) process, which has been viewed as more efficient than the older High Pressure, High Temperature (HPHT) method, especially for colorless stones.

A Russian manufacturer, New Diamond Technologies, however, has introduced a line of large HPHT grown colorless synthetics and offered 44 samples to GIA for analysis.

As-grown HPHT diamond single crystals produced using a simple Fe-based solvent with Al as a nitrogen getter. The sample on the far right is the largest, weighing 1.40 ct. Photo courtesy of New Diamond Technology.
GIA researchers Ulrika F.S. D’Haenens-Johansson, Andrey Katrusha, Kyaw Soe Moe, Paul Johnson, and Wuyi Wang analyzed the samples using a combination of spectroscopic and gemological techniques to characterize the quality of the material and determine the means of distinguishing them from natural, treated and alternative laboratory-grown diamonds.

These samples had weights ranging from 0.20 to 5.11 carats, color grades from D to K, and clarity grades from IF to I2. Importantly, 89% were classified as colorless (D-F), demonstrating that HPHT growth methods can be used to routinely achieve these color grades.
Letšeng’s Unique Diamond Proposition

The Letšeng-la-Terae diamond mine in Lesotho is the world’s most consistent source of type IIa diamonds (those with exceptionally low nitrogen content), which account for about one-fourth of its production. The mine claims six of the 20 largest diamonds ever discovered: 478, 493, 527, 550, 601 and 603 carats. The largest of these, the Lesotho Promise, was found in 2006 and sold to London jeweler Laurence Graff for $12.4 million.

This remote village, deep in the Maloti Mountains near the Letšeng mine, is primarily dedicated to agriculture and sheep herding. Villagers also form the workforce for the diamond mine. Basuto ponies, such as the one seen here, are esteemed for their speed and surefootedness in the steep, rocky mountain passes. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA.
The report by Russell Shor, Robert Weldon, A.J.A. (Bram) Janse, Christopher M. Breeding and Steven B. Shirey, also notes that Letšeng’s diamonds are unusual in that a majority are dodecahedral in form, which are very rare in other sources. Despite its bounty, Letšeng has had a difficult history because its ore grade is extremely low – about 2 carats per 100 tonnes and was not economic until recovery technology and diamond prices improved to allow profitable operation.
Origin Determination of Dolomite-Related White Nephrite through Iterative-Binary Linear Discriminant Analysis

Determining the origin of nephrite jade always has been difficult using standard gemological properties and observations. The authors, Zemin Luo, Mingxing Yang and Andy H. Shen, sampled nephrite jade from eight different dolomite-related deposits in eastern Asia.

This ancient pendant was discovered in the tomb of Marquis Yi, ruler of Zeng State during the Warring States period (ca. 475–221 BC). © Hubei Provincial Museum.
The authors used a new statistical analysis method based on linear discriminant analysis (LDA) and trace-element data from laser ablation−inductively coupled plasma–mass spectrometry (LA-ICP-MS), to achieve significantly improved origin determination (an average of 94.4% accuracy) for these nephrite samples. This technique could be applied to other gemstones to determine their geographic origins.
Lab Notes

This section of G&G features a discussion on unusual graining structure in a very light pink diamond with a uniform color plane intersecting with a cone of strain that fit perfectly into a colorless hole; an HPHT treated yellow diamond whose treatment was discovered by spectroscopic analysis; and an emerald with strong color zoning along the pavilion facets that demonstrates the importance of proper orientation and cutting. Other lab notes include a look at irradiated green-blue CVD synthetic diamonds that are the product of new growth technology; a natural green jadeite carving with areas that had been dyed green; and an examination of three large, natural abalone pearls.

Three unique abalone pearls are shown alongside a typical 12 mm golden South Sea bead-cultured pearl for comparison.
Micro-World

The Micro World section shows a Fancy Intense purplish pink diamond with an intricate geometric pattern of planar cracks and strain-induced bodycolor; an otherwise colorless rough diamond that has an eye-visible bluish-green stain near the surface caused by radiation; blue octahedral crystal inclusions within helidor cabochons that are determined to be gahnite, a rare zinc-rich member of the spinel group; and a trapiche pezzottite reportedly found near the Thai-Myanmar border.

Between crossed polars the diamond shows high-order interference colors consistent with the strain causing the cleavage network along the octahedral planes. Photomicrograph by Jonathan Muyal; field of view 0.62 mm.
Other features in this section include glassy melt inclusions in alluvial Montana sapphires, molybdenite inclusions in colorless topaz, and a lighting technique from gemological microscopy, Modified Rheinberg Illumination, that provides false-color contrast to enhance inclusion scenes. @chapter:16 @chapter:0 @chapter:16


# Publication Year: 2022
# Title: YAG with Flux-Filled Fingerprints
# Abstract: Flux-filled fractures displaying geometric shapes and iridescent colors when viewed through crossed polarizers. Photomicrograph by Michaela Stephan; field of view 2.9 mm.
The author recently examined a 3.58 ct yellowish green yttrium aluminum garnet, a manufactured product known in the trade as “YAG,” that contained numerous large flux-filled fractures. The flux material crystallized in the fractures formed interesting geometric shapes that showed birefringent interference colors when viewed between crossed polarizers, reminiscent of stained glass windows (see above). It is possible this YAG was intentionally fractured and filled with flux to more convincingly imitate tsavorite grossular garnet. Although the flux inclusions in this example were quite beautiful, such inclusions are not common in this manufactured gem material. @chapter:18 @chapter:0 @chapter:18


# Publication Year: 2001
# Title: Winter 2001 G&G Lab Notes
# Abstract: An Interesting Charoite Cabochon
High-Iron Cat’s-Eye Chrysoberyl
Diamond with Unusually Large Laser Drill Holes
Glass Sold as Quartz
Fossil Ivory
Hornbill “Ivory”
Quartz with Rhodochrosite
Sapphires with Diffusion-Induced Stars

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:18 @chapter:1 @chapter:18


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Economists See Bright Holiday Season
# Abstract: Burmese rubies, such as these, were banned from import into the U.S. from 2008 until President Obama lifted sanctions on them on Oct. 7. This 17.30 gram crystal in calcite (center), was found in Kyauksaung, Myanmar and was presented to the GIA museum by William F. Larson. The three Burmese rubies in front of it, (left to right) are: a 1.77 ct. oval cut, a 2.21 ct. cushion cut and a 6.32 ct. oval cut. They are courtesy of Edward Boehm. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA.

	While jewelry sales have been fairly flat in the U.S. this year, the National Retail Federation (NRF) is predicting a strong 3.6% increase for all retail in the coming holiday season. The NRF said consumer confidence is on the rise, jobs have become more plentiful and incomes have been climbing. All of these factors will push growth higher than the 10-year average of 2.5%.

	Economists at financial institutions are even more bullish on the season, the Centurion newsletter reported. The accounting firms of Deloitte and PriceWaterhouseCoopers (PWC) both anticipate strong gains. PWC is calling for a 10% increase, citing a consumer survey that also found consumers favoring independent stores and local brands.

	U.S. jewelry retailers could use the good news. In the first half of the year, Tiffany & Co. same store sales were down 9%, Blue Nile sales were flat and Signet Group (Kay, Zales, Jared Galleria) were down 2.5%.

	Worldwide, luxury sales have been struggling with Swiss watch demand showing monthly declines for over a year, especially at the higher end. Richemont (Cartier, Van Cleef & Arpels, and several luxury watch companies, including Baume & Mercier and Vacheron Constantin) was down 16% through the first half. LVMH (De Beers retail and Bulgari) was a bright spot, showing a 4% gain, mainly from the introduction of several watch lines.

	COLORED STONES

	U.S. President Obama removed the ban on imports of ruby and jade from Myanmar (Burma) on Oct. 7 during a visit by State Counsellor of the Republic of the Union of Myanmar Aung San Suu Kyi. The move may contribute to a revival of ruby mining in Mogok and Mong Hsu, which reportedly had declined significantly after the 2008 ban was enacted.

	There was no real consensus among dealers on how this action will affect the ruby market. Many believe the Burmese deposits have been winding down and that the ban (at least for Mogok stones) was widely ignored in the past few years. Others maintain that the ban, coupled with production cuts, sharply curtailed ruby supplies in the U.S. and prompted some prominent retailers, Tiffany & Co. in particular, to stop selling the gemstone.

	NGOs protested the decision, noting that human rights in Myanmar are still threatened by the military clique that still has a grip on much of the country’s economy, and the continuing violence against the Shan people, an ethnic minority concentrated in the Mong Hsu region.

	DIAMONDS

	De Beers sold $485 million worth of rough diamonds at its Sept. 26-29 cycle (previously called sight), raising prices 1% to 2% on goods that would polish out to a carat or larger and lowering them slightly for melee-sized stones. The total was slightly larger than expected given the continuing credit problems in the diamond industry and the upcoming Diwali holiday in India, where manufacturing operations close for two weeks or more.

	Russia’s Alrosa sold $454 million worth of rough and $18.9 million in polished in September, nearly double the August totals for rough diamonds, which was $243 million. August polished sales were $12 million. Alrosa’s second half sales are 58% above comparable 2015 levels, which were marked by oversupplies and buyer revolts over high rough prices. First half sales were 23% higher by value, 21% higher by carat volume. @chapter:32 @chapter:3 @chapter:32


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Jewelry Detectives: Students Search for Clues to Quality Workmanship, Longevity
# Abstract: Example of poor workmanship: The top cluster for diamonds in this ring was cast in one piece from a poorly made original model (note the lack of detail of setting components and gaps in the undercarriage). Twelve outer wires were fabricated and soldered to the outside of the ring, joining the top to the fabricated three-wire shank. The stone seats are not properly cut and a number of prongs extend above the table of the diamonds. Many stones are not level set. Utilizing quality assurance benchmarks, the student learns to recognize the poor workmanship in how the diamonds are set. Photos by Emily Lane/GIA

Jewelry appraiser Teri Brossmer, GIA GG, more than likely saved a recently engaged couple some long-term headaches – and potential heartache – after she examined their engagement ring.
“A newly engaged woman brought in her diamond ring for appraisal and during my inspection I discovered rampant porosity throughout the metal,” she said. “I knew that porosity was not a good thing.”
That’s because Brossmer, who has been a practicing gemologist and jewelry appraiser for 35 years, had recently taken GIA’s Jewelry Forensics seminar, which teaches students to become jewelry detectives as they assess jewelry design and engineering to identify manufacturing methods, workmanship, value and the likelihood of loss or failure.
Brossmer kept those lessons in mind as she looked at the couple’s ring.
“During the class I learned that the porosity we can see on the surface is likely a window into the condition of the entire piece,” she said. “I was able to explain what porosity was and answer my client’s questions. Based on the sheer quantity observed, I suggested she have the ring remade.”
Brossmer’s client returned a few weeks later with a “new ring.”
“Sadly, I had to explain to her that the ring was not new – it had simply been repaired. I was able to show her the areas where the existing porosity had been filled in with solder,” Brossmer said. “The third time was the charm, however, and the next time I saw the ring it passed all of the quality assessment benchmarks I learned from GIA.”
Brossmer said her ability to identify the problems with this ring, and then explain them to her clients, is a direct result of what she learned in the Jewelry Forensics seminar.
That is the goal, said Elizabeth Brehmer, a technical advisor to GIA’s Jewelry Manufacturing Arts program and one of the developers of the seminar.
“Students use the scientific method to correctly identify, analyze and assess the quality and nature of jewelry,” she said. “The forensics skills are used to assess the trace clues that are left over from different forms of manufacturing. These clues help students figure out how the piece was made, its workmanship quality and how it will hold up long-term.”
When they are done, students are able to impartially present what they identify to clients or others.
“It enables you to have a meaningful discussion with a supplier, customer or jeweler about the workmanship and potential risk of loss of a piece of jewelry,” Brehmer said.

Example of poor design engineering and workmanship: The stone seats of this ring are not properly cut, the prongs are short, and many prongs do not make full contact with center stone, which adds up to a high risk of stone loss. The melee diamonds set at the side of the prongs are at high risk of becoming loose when the center stone prongs are adjusted or bumped when worn. Photo courtesy Heritage Auctions
The 12 Qualifying Questions and GIA’s Quality Assurance Benchmarks
Once students have collected all of the clues about manufacturing, they learn the 12 Qualifying Questions, which also employ GIA’s Quality Assurance Benchmarks (QABs), to assess the potential risk and loss associated with the piece.
“The QABs are a set of criteria to help determine quality of workmanship and craftsmanship for jewelry,” Brehmer said. “It reviews all of the skills that are employed in making something of quality, including proper dimensions and metrics, such as asking: is this prong the right height and thickness to hold this stone? Is the metal alloy chosen strong enough to be used in a ring?”
The QABs were developed by GIA’s Jewelry Manufacturing Arts instructional and research and development teams as a way to review the daily work and bench tests of Graduate Jeweler (GJ) and Jewelry Design & Technology (JDT) students. They developed the QAB evaluation process and instituted it in 2013 for GJ students and in 2014 for JDT students.
“It has been game-changing. The methodology has made it possible for us to provide consistent, objective feedback to our students in an organized and structured manner,” Brehmer said. “That’s why it made perfect sense to include the 12-step process in the Jewelry Forensics seminar. There isn’t anything else like it out there.”
Brehmer said that applying the QAB criteria for jewelry forensics is one of the many ways that GIA can pass on knowledge learned from one program to another.
“It is a reflection of the synergy that often takes place in the GIA classroom – what we learn in one setting can be leveraged for a whole new and practical aspect of another setting,” she said.
Brossmer said that using GIA’s 12-step process to determine method of manufacture and assess the quality of workmanship was definitely one of the most practical things she learned in the seminar.
“In fact, I carry the Jewelry Forensics handout in my onsite inspection bag,” she said.

Example of mixed items that did not start out together: This antique bracelet has been assembled as a marriage of different parts and the unrelated parts that are joined using lead solder at some locations. Students learn how to recognize the signs of unrelated parts and how to identify the various manufacturing methods that were used. Photos by Emily Lane/GIA
Working Through the Jewelry Identification Process
Al Gilbertson, a GIA research associate and one of the seminar developers, likened the Jewelry Forensics seminar to GIA’s graduate gemology program, which teaches students how to identify gemstones.
“It teaches them a methodology that assesses the condition and quality.,” he said. “They are identifying how the piece was made and then evaluating it to see how well it will stand up against risk.”
Brossmer said she took the course because she wanted a better understanding of jewelry manufacturing.
“I wanted to gain more confidence in assessment of the quality and condition of the complete piece of jewelry, ultimately resulting in more credible opinions of value,” she said.
Gina D’Onofrio, director of Fine Jewelry for Heritage Auctions in Beverly Hills, said the seminar “fills a void in jewelry industry education” and “having case studies of pieces utilizing newer techniques, such as castings from CNC milled wax, were valuable to me.”
Both Brossmer and D’Onofrio agreed that what they learned in the seminar will help them when they are evaluating antique and estate jewelry.
“I am more cognizant of how refined newer manufacturing techniques have become and how they can be utilized to make more convincing reproductions of antique and period jewelry,” D’Onofrio said.
Brossmer said she has a better handle on recognizing how a piece was manufactured, which is “invaluable when dating antique and period pieces. The hands-on examples of cast-in-place bead setting versus hand-set gems was also very helpful,” she said.
She has also a clearer understanding of the properties of the precious metals commonly used in jewelry manufacturing and the steps in each of the manufacturing processes.
“It provided an excellent foundation and made the hands-on experience much more meaningful,” she said. I loved the little trick about using a strong magnet to check for cobalt in 950 platinum pieces."
Want to Become a Jewelry Detective?
D’Onofrio offered specific examples of how the Jewelry Forensics seminar will help other jewelry professionals:

If you take in over-the-counter repairs, you can detect and assess potential problems before they occur.
If you appraise/buy/sell period jewelry, you can recognize inconsistencies in construction methods for circa dating, and for reproductions.
If you are a jewelry designer without bench skills, this course will help you design and engineer pieces knowing what construction geometry will prevent potential jewelry failures in the future.
If you are a buyer for a jewelry store or an avid collector, you can make more informed decisions on the metal type performance, quality and workmanship of the product you are purchasing.

“The usefulness of the Jewelry Forensics class extends beyond the jewelry industry to insurance professionals by assisting them in identifying potential risks,” Brossmer said. “The curriculum provides such a treasure trove of information; I plan to take it again so I can focus on things I’m sure I missed.”
The two-and a half-day Jewelry Forensics seminar offers lecture with process videos, hands-on exercises along with detailed education materials with illustrations and image examples.. Seminar participants will receive a Jewelry Forensics guidebook including the GIA 12-step process of evaluation, glossary of jewelry terms and a thumb drive with supplemental reference and jewelry case study information.
GIA offers the Jewelry Forensics seminar at several times during the year. View all upcoming dates. @chapter:38 @chapter:3 @chapter:38


# Publication Year: 2024
# Title: Cummingtonite Needles Encased by Quartz in a Rhodonite
# Abstract: Figure 1. A rare 7.38 ct orangy red rhodonite. Photo by Chunyan Wang.

Figure 2. Many long tube inclusions were observed in the rhodonite sample. Photomicrograph by Chunyan Wang; field of view 2.36 mm.
Recently, the authors examined a 7.38 ct gem-quality rhodonite exhibiting a vivid orangy red color and good transparency (figure 1). Gemological testing, Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy, and Raman spectroscopy identified it as rhodonite. This gemstone had a refractive index of 1.733–1.747 and specific gravity of 3.46. Most rhodonite is opaque and is used as an ornamental stone, and transparent facet-grade material is very rare. Microscopic observation revealed an abundance of long, curved needles scattered randomly throughout the gem host (figure 2), consistent with previous studies. Occasional fluid inclusions were also seen.
A previous publication suggests that these curved needles are cummingtonite, an amphibole group mineral with a chemical formula of (Mg, Fe2+)2(Mg,Fe2+)5Si8O22(OH)2 (P. Leverett et al., “Ca-Mg-Fe-rich rhodonite from the Morro da Mina mine, Conselheiro Lafaiete, Minas Gerais, Brazil,” Mineralogical Record, Vol. 39, 2008, pp. 125–130). Raman spectroscopy confirmed the identity of one needle as cummingtonite, displaying characteristic peaks at 190, 667, and 1036 cm–1 when the laser beam was focused on the center of it. However, several new peaks appeared when the laser beam moved to the boundary between the needle and the rhodonite, including a 208 cm–1 peak that matched with quartz. Such a finding is new to the authors, since needle inclusions encased in another mineral have rarely been reported. To further investigate this finding, more than 10 points were selected, and the results identified quartz between the cummingtonite needle and the rhodonite host. All the tested Raman spectra were compared to the Raman online database.

Figure 3. The Raman spectra of cummingtonite, quartz, and rhodonite. While the long tube was identified as cummingtonite, quartz was detected between the tube and the rhodonite host. Spectra are offset vertically for clarity.

Figure 4. 3D false-color Raman mapping of one of the encased needle inclusions with the surrounding host. The rectangle shows the mapping area. The blue area indicates the existence of the rhodonite host, the green area the quartz, and the red area indicates the cummingtonite.
To further explore the relationship between rhodonite, quartz, and cummingtonite needles, a 3D Raman map was performed on a selected area of 3 × 14 × 12 μm with a step size of 2 μm. After running for 17.25 hours, more than 500 spectra were recorded. Three feature peaks were selected for image reconstruction: 3658 cm–1 for cummingtonite, 113 cm–1 for rhodonite, and 208 cm–1 for quartz (figure 3). Due to the similarity between the Raman spectra of cummingtonite and rhodonite, the main peaks were not chosen for mapping. The OH-related peak at 3658 cm–1 was only observed in cummingtonite, enabling us to distinguish the two minerals. The Raman mapping image is shown in figure 4, with blue indicating the host, green for quartz, and red for cummingtonite. These images revealed that the detection of quartz between rhodonite and cummingtonite was not by accident but indicated a considerable presence of quartz inclusions. Previous studies have reported quartz as an isolated and random mineral inclusion in rhodonite from Australia (e.g., P. Millsteed et al., “Inclusions in transparent gem rhodonite from Broken Hill, New South Wales, Australia,” Fall 2005 G&G, pp. 246–254). Based on our observation of the position of the quartz, we speculate that it may be the product of the decomposition of cummingtonite under certain temperatures and pressures.
This intricate inclusion association pattern may offer a new perspective on the origin of curved needles in rhodonite. This case also highlights the usefulness of Raman mapping as a tool for nondestructive analysis of inclusions. @chapter:8 @chapter:0 @chapter:8


# Publication Year: -
# Title: John King
# Abstract: Diamond grading is both a science and an art, requiring attention to detail and recognition of the uniqueness of each stone. Perhaps this is why John King, GIA’s chief quality officer since 2008 and an acclaimed artist in his own right, has achieved worldwide recognition for his trailblazing work in the field of colored diamonds.

After obtaining a BFA at Wayne State University and an MFA at Hunter College, King began his career at the Institute as a diamond grader, earning his GG in 1979. His academic focus on color theory, color naming, and order systems influenced his later work as a laboratory project officer on grading some of the world’s most famous colored diamonds, including the legendary Hope at the Smithsonian Institution (1988) and the Centenary, the largest D-color Flawless or Internally Flawless diamond seen at the time of its grading (1994). He was named GIA’s Staff Member of the Year in 1993, one year prior to becoming the lab’s project officer.

During the 1990s, King’s eye for color and grading expertise led to his work in refining and revising the terminology used for colored diamond grading reports issued by GIA. His work led to the publication of several groundbreaking articles on colored diamond characteristics and grading factors, including those pertaining specifically to blue, pink, and yellow material. Of his many published articles, nine have received G&G’s Most Valuable Article award. He also served as editor of G&G in Review: Colored Diamonds (2006), a compilation of the journal’s most notable articles on the  topic. Additionally, King has acted as an ambassador on GIA’s behalf, lecturing extensively on topics relating to colored diamonds, laboratory grading, and gemological research.

Outside of his work at the Institute, King is a widely respected artist, working in various mediums. For nearly three decades, he has shown his work at exhibitions held around the world, including at the Library of Congress, the Brooklyn Museum, and the Vicenza Art Fair (Italy), making clear that his eye for beauty translates outside of the gemological laboratory. King has been awarded both the NEA Fellowship Grant and the Pollock-Krasner Foundation grant for his artistic endeavors. His experience in both the lab setting and the art studio has helped pave the way to a greater understanding and wider appreciation for colored diamonds. @chapter:44 @chapter:1 @chapter:44


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Inamori Synthetic Cat's-Eye Alexandrite
# Abstract: The world's first commercially available synthetic cat's-eye alexandrite chrysoberyl is now being manufactured and marketed by the Kyocera Corporation in Kyoto, Japan. Kyocera markets synthetic gemstones in the United States under the trade name "Inamori Created." This article reports on a detailed gemological examination of this new synthetic cat's-eye alexandrite. Although most of the gemological properties of this new synthetic overlap those of natural cat's-eye alexandrite, it can be identified by its unique internal characteristics and its unusual fluorescence to short-wave ultraviolet radiation. @chapter:24 @chapter:0 @chapter:24


# Publication Year: 2023
# Title: FTIR Identification of Carbon Dioxide Fluids in Sapphire
# Abstract: Figure 1. Various negative crystals in pink sapphire from Sri Lanka (A, enlarged in B) and fingerprints in blue sapphire from Myanmar (C, enlarged in D). Image B shows bubbles in flat negative crystals, and the center negative crystal in D has a bubble. Photomicrographs by Momo Matsumura (A and B) and Shunsuke Nagai (C and D); fields of view 4.05 mm (A), 8.15 mm (B), 8.47 mm (C), and 1.71 mm (D).
Carbon dioxide is well known as a trapped fluid in negative crystals in sapphire. From room temperature to cooler temperatures, the negative crystals change from a single supercritical fluid phase to two phases of gas and liquid. This feature is fascinating to observe under the microscope (e.g., Spring 2016 G&G Micro-World, pp. 78–79). These fluid inclusions are considered proof that a sapphire has not undergone thermal treatment (e.g., J.I. Koivula, “Carbon dioxide fluid inclusions as proof of natural-colored corundum,” Fall 1986 G&G, pp. 152–155).
However, the Summer 2020 issue of G&G reported on a sapphire heated with pressure that contained a carbon dioxide gas bubble even after treatment (Summer 2020 Lab Notes, pp. 287–288). Most previous reports about carbon dioxide fluid inclusions were based on microscopic observation, but this one addressed the presence of carbon dioxide fluid using Fourier-transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy.

Figure 2. FTIR spectra of the two sapphires from figure 1 indicate dense carbon dioxide–assigned peaks from 2000 to 4000 cm–1 and 4500 to 5500 cm–1. The two peaks at 3601 and 3705 cm–1 are easily mistaken for kaolinite peaks at 3619 and 3698 cm–1.

Figure 1 shows two sapphires from Sri Lanka and Myanmar with fluid inclusions of primary and secondary negative crystals. FTIR spectra of these two sapphires are presented in figure 2. The two peaks at 3601 and 3705 cm–1 are easily confused with kaolinite-related peaks at 3619 and 3698 cm–1. All of the spectra show several peaks assigned to dense carbon dioxide vibration and combination overtone bands. The 2342 cm–1 peak is C=O asymmetric stretching vibration ν3. The 3601 and 3705 cm–1 peaks are 2ν2 + ν3 and ν1 + ν3 first Fermi resonance, respectively. The 4838, 4967, and 5088 cm–1 peaks are 4ν2 + ν3, ν1 + 2ν2 + ν3, and 2ν1 + ν3 second Fermi resonance peaks, respectively, where ν1 is a symmetric stretching and ν2 is a doubly degenerate bending (table 1). Those peaks generally present double absorption bands, P- and R-contour, under atmospheric pressure and temperature due to the rotational transitions that occur for the stretching band, as seen in the bottom spectrum of figure 2. The double peaks change to a single peak, increasing the carbon dioxide fluid density by more than ~0.4 g/cm3 (M. Buback et al., “Near infrared absorption of pure carbon dioxide up to 3100 bar and 500 K. I. Wavenumber range 3200 cm–1 to 5600 cm–1,” Zeitschrift für Naturforschung A, Vol. 41, 1986, pp. 505–511; A. Oancea et al., “Laboratory infrared reflection spectrum of carbon dioxide clathrate hydrates for astrophysical remote sensing applications,” Icarus, Vol. 221, No. 2, 2012, pp. 900–910).

Figure 3. Raman spectrum of carbon dioxide showing the Fermi diad (or doublet) from a negative crystal inclusion in a sapphire.
In order to prove the high density of carbon dioxide fluids, this author used micro-Raman spectroscopy. Raman spectra of carbon dioxide in fluid inclusions show a Fermi diad (or doublet) (figure 3), which is useful in estimating carbon dioxide fluid pressure and density in negative crystals (e.g., J. Yamamoto et al., “Paleo-Moho depth determined from the pressure of CO2 fluid inclusions: Raman spectroscopic barometry of mantle- and crust-derived rocks,” Earth and Planetary Science Letters, Vol. 253, 2007, pp. 369–377; H.M. Lamadrid et al., “Reassessment of the Raman CO2 densimeter,” Chemical Geology, Vol. 450, 2016, pp. 201–222). Using the equations reported by Lamadrid et al. (2016), carbon dioxide fluid densities in sapphires measured by FTIR spectra were estimated at 0.54–0.74 g/cm3. This density is consistent with the results derived from FTIR spectra in figure 2.
According to the Summer 2020 Lab Notes entry, sapphire with heat and pressure showed a strong broad peak at 3047 cm–1 with C=O asymmetric stretching vibration ν3 at 2342 cm–1 and no other peaks at wavenumbers higher than 3600 cm–1. The Raman spectra also revealed a carbon dioxide Fermi diad (N. Ng-Pooresatien, pers. comm., 2023), and the density was estimated at 0.11–0.18 g/cm3, which is about one-fifth lower. The existence of carbon dioxide bubbles in a negative crystal is therefore no longer definitive proof of the absence of thermal treatment. This study also showed that FTIR analysis is a useful method for detecting the high density of carbon dioxide fluid in sapphire, and resulting FTIR peaks above 3600 cm–1 could indicate the absence of heat treatment. @chapter:19 @chapter:0 @chapter:19


# Publication Year: 2019
# Title: Fossil Insect in Opal
# Abstract: Figure 1. A polished free-form opal encapsulating an insect. Play-of-color is shown at the bottom. Photo by Jian Xin (Jae) Liao. Stone courtesy of Brian Berger.

The authors recently examined a most unusual opal. The mottled brown polished free-form stone appeared to contain a trapped insect, which one might expect to find in fossil amber or copal (figure 1). However, noticeable play-of-color made it obvious that the host material for the insect was precious opal, which was further confirmed by standard gemological testing. Its refractive index of 1.45, weak white long-wave fluorescence, and Raman spectrum were all consistent with natural opal. No microscopic evidence of any type of treatment was detected.

Figure 2. An unidentified insect encapsulated in opal. Left: A head and mouth are visible along with several legs covered in fine hair-like structures, or setae. The leg in the foreground was partially cut through during polishing. Field of view 6.39 mm. Center: Setae branching from an appendage; field of view 2.57 mm. Right: The thorax of the insect is visible, though partially contorted. A grainy white layer coats and partially obscures the surface-reaching appendages and abdomen. Field of view 11.50 mm. Photomicrographs by Nathan Renfro (left and center) and Tyler Smith (right).
Play-of-color was strongest in the darker brown portions toward the base but also appeared in shallow fissures around the insect’s appendages. The insect broke the surface, resulting in some of its legs and underside being cut through during polishing (figure 2, left). An apparent set of mouth parts was clearly observed, but the position of some pits on the surface partially obscured the view. Fine hairs, or setae, were found along the legs (figure 2, center). The setae closest to the surface were surrounded by a grainy white material that resembled desiccated opal. A slightly contorted abdomen was observed alongside a pair of rear legs (figure 2, right).
Precious opal formation is not fully understood, but several mechanisms have been proposed (B.Y. Lynne et al., “Diagenesis of 1900-year-old siliceous sinter (opal-A to quartz) at Opal Mound, Roosevelt Hot Springs, Utah, U.S.A.,” Sedimentary Geology, Vol. 179, Nos. 3-4, 2005, pp. 249–278; B. Pewkliang et al., “The formation of precious opal: Clues from the opalization of bone,” The Canadian Mineralogist, Vol. 46, No. 1, 2008, pp. 139–149). One possible explanation is that low-pH groundwater percolated through the soil, accruing colloidal silica into a silica-rich fluid. This gel then underwent polymerization within cavities and voids to form microspheres of opal-A. One could imagine a scenario where the insect was entrapped by an intrusion of this gel, rapidly enveloping the insect and allowing it to avoid decomposition.
While fossilized organic matter in the form of roots and twigs has been found in precious opal—most notably in Virgin Valley, Nevada, and Wollo, Ethiopia—this is the first confirmed case of an opal-encased insect that the authors have examined. We were not able to find any other recorded findings, although there have been rumors of them. It is our hope that more specimens are discovered so we can more thoroughly study these exceptional rarities. @chapter:46 @chapter:4 @chapter:46


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Hoop Dreams: NBA Championship Rings
# Abstract: You need world-class skill, teamwork and inspiration to win an NBA championship. You need the same qualities to make a NBA championship ring.
	To find out what it takes to make an NBA championship ring, we interviewed executives at Jostens and Jason of Beverly Hills. Both companies have designed and manufactured these ultimate status symbols for professional players.

	Jostens is one of the most prolific producers of championship rings. Its resume includes 46 NBA championship rings, 31 Super Bowl rings, Major League Baseball World Series rings, National Hockey League Stanley Cup championship rings, NASCAR rings, Major League Soccer championship rings and hundreds of college and high school championship rings. It most recently designed and made NBA championship rings for the Miami Heat, winners of the 2011-2012 and 2012-2013 seasons.

	The Miami HEAT ring posed a unique design challenge. Recreating the logo – 0.5 carat diamond basketball swooshing through a net – was particularly difficult, according to Jostens. The ring also had a secret message on the side panel. Underneath the Larry O’Brien trophy are 16 lines made of 14K gold. Head coach Erik Spoelstra brought a trophy into the locker room when the team made the playoffs. He told the players that they needed 16 games to become champions, and each time the team won a game, he put a notch in the trophy.

	Jostens’ 2013 NBA championship ring for the Miami HEAT was equally impressive: It boasted 10.3 carats worth of diamonds – the current record holder for the largest amount of diamonds in a Jostens’ basketball championship ring.

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	Jason of Beverly Hills has made three NBA Championship rings since 2009. The company most recently crafted the 2014-2015 Golden State Warriors championship ring (Steph Curry proudly wears it), and the 2008-2009 and 2009-2010 rings for the Los Angeles Lakers.

Golden State Warriors Championship Ring for the 2014-2015 Season. Courtesy: Jason of Beverly Hills.

	More than 6 carats of diamonds and blue sapphires decorate the 2015 NBA championship ring for the Golden State Warriors. It also features impressive workmanship, symbolism and hidden messages.

	The 240 diamonds in the ring stand for the team’s wins under the current ownership. The circular top is a nod to the shape of the Warriors jersey logo and the shape of a basketball. The custom-made 67% pure gold (approximately 16K) used in the Golden Gate Bridge and the players’ numbers represent the Warrior’s 67 wins in the season.

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	Designing the Ring

	Designing an NBA championship ring is a sprint in creativity and skill. Once the final shot is taken, Jostens and Jason of Beverly Hills rush to beat another buzzer: they will have about four months to design and make the ring, which is presented to the players on opening day of the next season. Designs are shown to the team. The team owners pick a vendor. A budget is set for the entire project and the amount to be spent on each ring. This varies from team to team.

	Jason of Beverly Hills starts designing as soon as the game clock winds down. When creating the ring for the Golden State Warriors, its designers hand-sketched a concept they thought would wow the players. This was made into a 3D CAD model. Jason of Beverly Hills then met with Steph Curry, Draymond Green and Andre Iguodala to refine the design. Owners Joe Lacob and Peter Guber provided additional suggestions. The company integrated all the input, creating a design that captured the identity of the team.

	Jostens uses a different approach. When the final four teams face off in the NBA playoffs, its designers create mock-ups for all of them. This way they are ready to present designs – no matter who wins. The Jostens’ design team shows its initial renderings to the winners. Players share pivotal moments and events from the season. The owners tell what elements they want in the ring. Jostens then returns with final designs about three to four weeks later. The goal is to make the championship story come to life in gold, diamonds and other gemstones.

	Crafting the character of a championship season may have been a little easier for Jostens during the 1990s, when the Chicago Bulls won six championships. Jostens designed all these rings, so they knew something about the franchise, its owners and the team. Owner Jerry Reinsdorf and his wife collaborated closely with Bulls star Scotty Pippen to create the design for the 1993 Chicago Bulls NBA championship ring, which Michael Jordan proudly wears.

Creating a 3D Bulls logo was a demanding task. It features a man-made red stone that required impressive design skills to make and set it. © Jostens, Inc.

	Manufacturing the Ring

	When designing the ring, Jostens uses a 13-step process that combines old-world craftsmanship and the latest technologies. Hand sketches are turned into CAD/CAM layouts. Manufacturing is anchored in the lost wax process (a wax model of the ring is encased in material and burned away before molten metal is poured into the cavity), which is used along with 3D printing. Every ring is handcrafted and customized for each wearer. The company believes that this blending of old and new allows them to offer a superior product.

	Ring sizes vary, from as small as a size five for a smaller person who works at the franchise, up to 23 for the players. The company has master tools that allow them to create rings of all sizes.

	When Jason of Beverly Hills makes the rings, the table for every piece has the same circumference. The ring sizes, however, are scaled for each individual. All rings are made in-house; it takes six to eight weeks to manufacture all of them.

	As for gems, Jostens uses natural diamonds, sapphires, rubies and emeralds in its NBA championship rings. Synthetic stones may be used on occasion, either to match the specific Pantone color of the franchise’s uniform or for gemstones that must be custom cut into complex shapes. The goal, however, is to use a natural gemstone whenever possible.

	“We use colored gems to create the team’s logo and other design elements. This is a relatively new trend in championship rings, which only used to feature diamonds. The Boston Red Socks and St. Louis Cardinals are two recent examples where we used rubies to create the logo,” said Chris Poitras, vice president, sports marketing and development at Jostens.
Jason of Beverly Hills has used only natural stones in the three NBA rings it created. Gems are sourced from around the world and are typically cut in Canada.

	As for metals, 14K white gold is the most common choice, according to Jostens. Platinum and yellow gold are occasionally used. Jason of Beverly Hills shared that 14K white and yellow gold are the most popular metals. Poitras predicts that yellow gold will be making a comeback in the next year or so.

	Evolution of NBA Championship Rings

	Championship rings have changed over the decades. According to Poitras, “Championship rings have changed from simple symbols of victory to a sophisticated extension of the team’s brand. Since these brands are iconic, the logo, font and important moments are worked into the design, making the finished product a retelling of the team’s path to victory and a reflection of the franchise.”
Turning the ring into a brand extension requires a larger canvas, and that means a larger ring. Bigger athletes have also contributed to ever-increasing ring sizes. The Boston Celtics 1969 NBA championship ring by Jostens is a dramatic example of how they’ve evolved.

Considered cutting edge at the time because a diamond was set on top of the basketball crest, the Boston Celtics ring features a 0.5 ct diamond set in 10K yellow gold. ©Jostens, Inc.

	Jason of Beverly Hills sees the bling factor as the primary driver behind bigger rings. “Every owner is trying to outdo each other with a bigger and better ring,” said Jason Arasheben, jewelry designer and owner of Jason of Beverly Hills.

	Personalizing the Ring

	NBA championship rings are a study in personalization. A player’s name and jersey number are usually engraved in the shank. The number of gemstones used may represent the number of players on the team roster or a key milestone in the team’s season or history. The team’s motto, jersey numbers of the players, final scores of important games, and other significant details are subtly incorporated into the design.

The 14K white gold ring Dallas Mavericks championship ring has more than 250 brilliant round and princess cut diamonds with a total weight of approximately 10 carats. ©Jostens, Inc.

	Jostens’ 2011 NBA championship ring for the Dallas Mavericks is an example of this impressive craftsmanship and rich symbolism. Six individual pieces were needed to make the Mavericks’ logo, part of the 14 total ring components. Another 31 custom princess-cut diamonds surround it, representing each year the Dallas Mavericks have been in the NBA. Flush set around the rest of the ring top are round brilliant diamonds.

	The player’s name and a single star appear on the side panel, which symbolizes the Mavericks’ first championship. The other side panel has a star set with one round brilliant diamond. The Mavericks “M” is set with 15 round brilliant cut diamonds representing the 15 players on the championship roster.

	Designing the ring was an impressive dash to the finish line. An NBA work stoppage prevented Jostens from talking to the players to get their input on the design. When they finally could, the company had just 17 days to design the ring.

	“NBA championship rings are becoming more like elaborate wearble pieces of art,” said McKenzie Santimer, GIA manager of museum exhibits.

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	All NBA championship rings made by Jostens and Jason of Beverly Hills come with lifetime warranties. Jostens notes that, as great care is made in making the rings, they are rarely returned for repair. If a ring is ever damaged, players contact their dedicated customer service representative.

	Personalizing the L.A. Lakers Rings

Jason of Beverly Hills used 15K gold for the L.A. Lakers 15th championship. Courtesy: Jason of Beverly Hills

	When the L.A. Lakers won its 15th championship for the 2008-2009 season, Jason of Beverly Hills set 15 large round brilliant diamonds weighing 2.85 cts. on the table to commemorate it. The company also used 15K gold to celebrate the milestone.

	The Lakers' rings mirror the shape of the exterior of their home arena, the Staples Center. When viewed from the side, the "roof" and "sides" are visible.

	Every player’s face was etched in into the side of the ring. CAD/CAM and 3D printing was used to create the images. Kobe Bryant and his team members are each immortalized in their own ring.

Sixteen over-sized round brilliant diamonds on the table symbolize the 16 historic Lakers' championships. Continuing the theme of “16,” Jason of Beverly Hills alloyed 16K gold for the ring. Courtesy: Jason of Beverly Hills

	Jason of Beverly Hills also created the NBA championship ring for the 2009-2010 L.A. Lakers. It has two trophies that represent the back-to-back championships.

	A clever touch: A piece of the basketball from the winning game is forever preserved in the ring.

	The NBA Championship Ring Ceremony

	Under the bright lights of opening night of the new season, the players receive their rings. So does everyone who works for the franchise. It’s a thrilling moment. The championship ring is now a permanent tribute to the accomplishment of the past season.

	Jason of Beverly Hills added a bit of pizazz to its presentation. Each player was given a box that had a motorized turntable and built-in lights to illuminate the ring. This turned the box into something between a museum display case and a nightclub dance floor.

	A new season will begin in the fall and all 30 teams will compete to win the Larry O’Brien trophy. Only one will walk away victorious. And the process of crafting the NBA Championship ring will start all over again. @chapter:45 @chapter:3 @chapter:45


# Publication Year: 2018
# Title: A Rare Ruby from Montana
# Abstract: Figure 1. Inclusions in the 1.70 ct ruby from Montana. Left: Close-up of a glassy melt inclusion with an associated thin film showing geometric patterns; field of view 1.76 mm. Right: A melt inclusion with an iridescent thin film, partial hexagonal zone of particles, and short needles; field of view 3.81 mm. Photomicrographs by Claire Malaquias.
The Carlsbad laboratory recently received a 1.70 ct purplish red octagonal modified brilliant-cut ruby measuring 6.28 × 6.25 × 4.56 mm for an identification and origin report. Standard gemological testing gave a chromium spectrum indicating ruby and a hydrostatic specific gravity (SG) of 4.00. The stone displayed a weak red fluorescence in long-wave UV and no fluorescence under short-wave UV.
Microscopic examination showed an interesting combination of inclusions (figure 1). There were several glassy melt inclusions and small crystals with associated reflective thin films. The thin films often displayed hexagonal geometric patterns conforming to the crystallographic orientation of the host ruby. These resembled the patterns commonly seen in rubies from Thailand and Cambodia and have also been documented in Montana corundum (Fall 2015 Micro-World, pp. 329–330). A partial hexagonal zone of particles and more loosely spaced unaltered exsolved rutile needles was also present, a feature that would be very unusual in Thai/Cambodian rubies. A large intact colorless crystal as well as smaller white crystals were located deep within the stone, so we were unable to conclusively identify them with Raman spectroscopy. This inclusion scene is consistent with unheated corundum from Montana.

Figure 2. The 1.70 ct Montana ruby alongside rough pink to purple corundum samples from the GIA reference collection. These reference samples, collected from Montana’s Eldorado Bar along the Missouri River and Wildcat Gulch, part of the Rock Creek deposit, were used to help determine the country of origin. Photo by Robison McMurtry.
Laser ablation–inductively coupled plasma–mass spectrometry (LA-ICP-MS) was used to determine the stone’s trace-element chemistry, and the results were compared to corundum samples from GIA’s colored stone reference collection. Trace element measurements indicated ranges of 15.1–17.2 ppma Mg, 14.7–16.9 ppma Ti, 3.67–3.87 ppma V, 359–406 ppma Cr, 1500–1580 ppma Fe, and 14.6–14.7 ppma Ga. The chemistry matched well with reference stones GIA has collected from Montana’s secondary deposits (figure 2) but not our Thai/Cambodian ruby reference samples. In particular, Thai/Cambodian rubies tend to have higher Mg (often above 100 ppma), while this stone had much lower Mg levels.
Montana’s secondary deposits produce sapphires in a wide range of mostly pastel colors. Pink corundum tends to be rarer than blue or green, and those that possess the depth of color to be called ruby are quite rare, particularly without any treatments. The color, combined with the large size, makes the 1.70 ct ruby from Montana an exceptional specimen—this is only the second such report issued by the lab to date. With a combination of microscopic observation, advanced testing methods, and GIA’s reference collection, we were able to confirm the country of origin. @chapter:13 @chapter:0 @chapter:13


# Publication Year: 2022
# Title: Quarterly Crystal: Etching on Laurentthomasite
# Abstract: Figure 1. This deeply etched 11.24 mm laurentthomasite crystal from Madagascar displayed a rich greenish blue color. The orange color patches are epigenetic limonitic residue. Photo by Annie Haynes; courtesy of Arkfeld Minerals.
The micro-world of gems and minerals involves the study of not only fluid and solid inclusions but also any significant surface features caused by growth and/or etching. When a rough crystal is fashioned into a gemstone, most if not all surface features of any importance are removed during the lapidary process. So when we encounter an interesting gem crystal, we always take the opportunity to examine the natural surfaces for any interesting evidence of growth or dissolution.
With that in mind, we recently studied a rough-surfaced etched hexagonal crystal of laurentthomasite (figure 1) from Madagascar that measured 11.24 × 9.76 × 4.32 mm and weighed 3.71 ct. Laurentthomasite, with the chemical formula Mg2K(Be2Al)Si12O30, is a relatively recent mineral approved in 2019 by the International Mineralogical Association (IMA) as a new species in the milarite (osumilite) group. It was named after French mineral dealer Laurent Thomas.
The rough surface of the laurentthomasite prevented the application of standard gemological testing. With magnification, however, we were able to observe a uniaxial optic figure from the crystal in polarized light. As expected, the dichroism displayed was a greenish blue down the optic axis direction and greenish yellow perpendicular to the c-axis. Under UV radiation, the crystal’s reaction was inert.

Figure 2. Some of the dissolution features observed on the etched surface of the laurentthomasite crystal were reminiscent of decorative hexagonal tiles, as seen using differential interference contrast (left) and diffuse transmitted light (right). Photomicrographs by Nathan Renfro; field of view 1.44 mm.
Examination of the surface using differential interference contrast microscopy showed an abundance of hexagonal etch features, some with a rather dramatic architecture. Reflecting the hexagonal symmetry of the laurentthomasite, as shown in figure 2, these dissolution features were targeted for photomicrography. @chapter:15 @chapter:0 @chapter:15


# Publication Year: 2013
# Title: Musgravite from Myanmar
# Abstract: Figure 1. These two musgravites (0.11 and 0.24 ct) are reportedly from Myanmar. Photo by Brad Payne.

              Two small, near-colorless stones reportedly from Myanmar (0.11 and 0.24 ct; figure 1) were recently loaned to GIA for examination by Brad Payne (The Gem Trader, Surprise, Arizona). Both samples had a refractive index of 1.718–1.723 and a specific gravity of 3.66 (calculated from optical measurements using a Sarin device, due to the small size of the samples). Both showed a very weak orange fluorescence to long-wave UV radiation and luminesced weak red to short-wave UV.

These properties are within the established ranges for musgravite and taaffeite, which have similar chemical composition and structure. Distinguishing between the two minerals requires Raman spectroscopy or X-ray diffraction. Conclusive identification of these samples as musgravite was accomplished by Raman spectroscopy (see L. Kiefert and K. Schmetzer, “Distinction of taaffeite and musgravite,” Journal of Gemmology, Vol. 26, No. 3, 1998, pp. 165–167). Even though several stones have been submitted to GIA’s laboratory over the years as musgravite, rarely have they been confirmed as such (see Summer 1997 Gem News, pp. 145–147; Spring 2001 Lab Notes, pp. 60–61).

Microscopic observation revealed a heavily roiled growth structure and small colorless needles and particulates scattered throughout. Also present were numerous black opaque hexagonal platelets, identified by Raman analysis as graphite (figure 2). Interestingly, the graphite platelets all appeared to be crystallographically aligned within the host musgravite.

	Figure 8. Hexagonal graphite platelets were the most conspicuous inclusion in the 0.24 ct musgravite. Photomicrograph by N. Renfro; field of view is 1.08 mm.
According to Mr. Payne’s supplier, Burmese “taaffeite” (which includes a small percentage of musgravite) comes from Chaunggyi, a few kilometers northwest of Mogok. Although production is quite limited, more musgravite may appear as miners become aware of this rare gem’s existence. Due to the overlap of physical properties between musgravite and taaffeite, stones suspected of being the rarer musgravite should be submitted to a qualified gemological laboratory for confirmation. @chapter:7 @chapter:0 @chapter:7


# Publication Year: -
# Title: De Beers Remains Optimistic For 2016
# Abstract: De Beers executives remained cautiously optimistic about the remainder of the year after allocating a July cycle (formerly called sight) of $520 million that produced no refusals or complaints about prices, which have held steady for most of the year.

	The total of the July 25-29 cycle was about 8% less than June and the smallest all year, which was not surprising after lackluster demand at JCK Las Vegas and the June Hong Kong Gem and Jewellery Show. Reports from the cycle said that De Beers did not lower prices despite high inventories and declining premiums on rough parcels sold in secondary markets.

	De Beers’ new CEO Bruce Cleaver said that the company would continue to take a cautious role through the remainder of the year.  He also vowed to ramp up programs “designed to stimulate demand for diamonds and continue operations that enhance branding and product integrity.”

	Cleaver came down firmly on the side of expanding diamond marketing programs to include millennials, saying: “Taking continued demand for granted would be a mistake. And assuming the factors that influenced demand yesterday will be the same as those that influence demand tomorrow is folly. We must embrace changing consumer trends and see them as an opportunity to grow.”

	De Beers reported a first half profit of $585 million on sales of $3.3 billion. This strong performance that was extremely welcome for its corporate parent, Anglo American Corp., which had been in financial difficulty after the commodities price crashes of last year. By volume, the total was just over 17 million carats, a 29% increase over last year – a period when diamond manufacturers were hard-squeezed by rising inventories, shrinking credit and declining polished prices.

	Alrosa, the Russian-based diamond producer, announced its sales increased 19% to $1.2 billion during the first half of the year. By volume, sales were up 7% to 9.6 million carats. Revenue rose much higher than volume because the company offered a larger percentage of gem quality rough and trimmed offerings of industrial goods.

	While the credit situation remains difficult, De Beers executives noted that inventories levels have stabilized and don’t see them as problematic.

	In India, however, the credit crunch continues to take its toll with several large firms declaring bankruptcy and one major sightholder on the banks’ watch list.

	COLORED STONES

	Gemfields, the London based colored stone mining company, plans to nearly triple its ruby production at the Montepuez Mine in Mozambique. The company secured a $65 million finance package to expand production facilities at the mine, which will bring production to 20 million carats yearly, up from the current 8 million.

	Some of the proceeds from the loan package will go toward expanding production at the Kagem emerald mine to 40 million carats, up from a current 30 million carats.

	GOLD PRICE

	The currency volatility following Britain’s brexit vote helped push the gold price to its highest level in two years, topping $1350 oz. The World Gold Council noted that this represents a 29% increase over the metal’s January 1 level. The Council predicts that gold will top $1400 oz. by the year’s end. @chapter:37 @chapter:3 @chapter:37


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Spring 2015 G&G Examines Blue Spinel, Chinese Jewelry Design and the Latest in Synthetics
# Abstract: The lead article in this issue examines the geological and gemological characteristics of blue spinel from Luc Yen, Vietnam. The centerpiece of the 18k yellow gold ring from the Love Doves collection is a 4.95 ct. marquise-cut spinel, framed on either side by doves with ruby eyes. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA, courtesy of Loretta Castoro. The gem-quality blue spinel octahedron associated with olivine in marble matrix was seen at a mine in the Luc Yen district. Photo by Vincent Pardieu/GIA. Composite image by Kevin Schumacher.

The Spring 2015 issue of Gems & Gemology features an array of reports from around the globe and a cover article on one of the major sources of blue spinel: Luc Yen in Vietnam.
Blue spinel is rare in nature and not well-known in world gem markets, but its color rivals that of sapphire. Luc Yen, located about 100 miles from Hanoi, has been a source for gem-quality ruby, sapphire and red spinel for the past 25 years. Blue spinel is a more recent discovery, not mined in significant quantities until a decade ago. The gems come from three deposits and are hard-won, requiring a four-hour hike, rising 1,800 feet through dense foliage to reach the mine sites.

In primary deposits, the blue spinel crystals are found in a marble layer some 1,500-feet thick. Miners – primarily local farmers working part time – extract it using hand tools and jackhammers. However, most of the blue spinels, along with their red counterparts, are found in secondary deposits, where they eroded out of their host rocks and washed into the valleys. Here, the miners use a water hose and sluice to sort out the gem-bearing gravels, which can also include ruby and sapphire.

The authors (Boris Chauvire, Benjamin Rondeau, Emmanuel Fritsch, Phillipe Ressigeac and Jean Lu-Luc Devidal) conducted extensive gemological analyses of samples they purchased from local merchants. The colors and saturation varied from deposit to deposit, but ranged from violet-blue to blue and slightly grayish to vivid saturation, and very light to medium-dark tone. Analysis found the most vibrant blue colors came from trace amounts of cobalt, which is similar to blue spinel from some other locations. In addition, the authors present a lot of information on the geology along with a hypothesis on the gems’ geologic origin.

The Chinese Soul in Contemporary Jewelry Design

This diamond and emerald bracelet is from Dickson Yewn’s “Lock of Good Wishes” collection. The four corners of the lock panel are decorated with simplified bat patterns, which symbolize good luck and happiness in Chinese culture. The clasp is a realistic recreation of an ordinary gate lock from ancient China. The concept is typically used in baby jewelry to make the wearer feel blessed throughout life, and Yewn has successfully applied it to adult pieces. Photo courtesy of Dickson Yewn
Historically, Chinese culture - and jewelry design/tastes - was known for its dragon, bamboo and phoenix motifs, as well as its symbolic writing for millennia. Today, China is the world’s second largest jewelry market with a growing penchant for brand names and luxury. GIA staff authors, Andrew Lucas, Merilee Chapin, Moqing Lin and Xiaodan Jia profile six designers whose work incorporates traditional motifs and materials with modern sensibilities, combined with traditional Chinese and Western techniques.

		Hong Kong designer Dickson Yewn incorporates traditional door lock motifs and lattice windows in his emerald pieces. The lock motif in the bracelet is meant to symbolize health and happiness to the wearer. The window lattice ring design was patterned after the Classical Gardens of Suzhou, and was worn by Michelle Obama at a banquet honoring Queen Elizabeth.

		Master Jingyi Bai, who learned her craft from master goldsmiths, creates traditional filigree and inlay art objects. She also creates replicas of historic pieces in the style of the old masters.

		Taiwanese designer Yue-Yo Wang incorporates ancient art of knotting into modern-styled pieces that feature colored gemstones such as rose quartz, chalcedony, tourmaline and, of course, jadeite. Jadeite is one of the strongest traditions in Chinese jewel craft and Shanghai designer Kaka Zhang creates jadeite pieces of traditional fairy tale characters that she markets mainly online.

		Shirley Zhang, working from Shenzhen, creates highly intricate pieces that combine ancient motifs and innovative techniques, such as gem setting that enables more light to pass through the stones.One of her award winning pieces, “Dancing on Flowers,” features 1,002 colored stones and 4,986 small diamonds in a suite of three pieces featuring blossoms and bees to symbolize diligence and beauty.

		Jin Ren, of Beijing, bases some of his designs on mythological characters such as the Monkey King. He created a suite of jewels with colorless, yellow and black diamond arranged in a snakeskin motif to symbolize renewal, as when a snake sheds his skin.

Amethyst from Boudi, Morocco

Amethyst is one of the most popular gemstones in world markets, and authors Fabrizio Troilo, Abdelghani El Harfi, Salahaddine Mouaddib, Erica Bittarello and Emanuele Costa, from the Instituto Gemmologico Italiano and universities in Italy and Morocco, examined material from the Boudi area of Morocco that is being commercially mined.

While much of the Boudi production has color and properties similar to amethyst found in other parts of the world, it does produce some fine reddish-purple gems that resemble top-quality from classic deposits.

Visible Absorption Spectra of Colored Diamonds

GIA researchers Dr. James Shigley and Dr. Christopher Breeding present a review of the absorption features of yellow, pink to red, gray to blue and orange to brown diamonds.

Colorless diamonds have few or no trace elements or growth defects (such as misaligned crystal structure) to absorb certain colors of the spectrum from the light that passes through them, so the light returned is “white.” Elements such as nitrogen and boron, however, absorb certain colors of the spectrum, so the light returned is yellow or blue. Other factors can also cause diamond color. Natural or artificial radiation displaces some of the carbons atoms from the crystal structure of the diamond to create vacancies that cause green color.

The authors created a color chart that shows visible absorption spectra for a range of colored diamonds to serve as a reference tool for researchers and gemologists.

Mozambique: A Ruby Discovery for the 21st Century

The final full article is from a G&G staff field trip to the Montepuez ruby deposit in Mozambique. The article details the geology of the area that has produced the largest ruby find in recent history and how the rough gems are mined, sorted and graded for sale. The authors, Merilee Chapin, Vincent Pardieu and Andrew Lucas, detail the nature of the rubies in comparison with those from other sources.

Lab Notes

The chameleon diamond is shown before and after heating (left and right).
This issue features an entry on techniques for identifying very small synthetic diamonds using a microscope equipped with a Fourier-transform infrared (FTIR) spectrometer. The report notes that GIA has seen a surge in faceted melee goods submitted for identification. Combining the FTIR spectrometer with the microscope has enabled GIA researchers to get accurate spectra readings for diamonds as small as .00054 carats. It had been difficult to retrieve proper spectra for diamonds under .01 carat (ct.) before this, because readings were often indistinct and had to be taken while the diamond was in a set position. This set-up allows clear readings to be taken independently of a diamond’s position whether mounted in jewelry or loose.

The above method was also used to examine a pendant holding 118 diamonds, including 58 fancy yellows and 60 colorless stones. GIA staff found one HPHT grown synthetic weighing .00431 ct. Nearly all of the other diamonds were natural type 1aA or type 1aAB.

In Hong Kong, GIA recently examined two large synthetic colorless diamonds, submitted with full disclosure by a Russian producer. One was a 4.30 ct. D SI1; the other a 5.11 ct. K I1. Both were HPHT grown and contained distinctive metallic inclusions. The quality and size of these diamonds demonstrates that HPHT synthetic technology has made great strides in recent years.

GIA staff in New York examined two chameleon diamonds, a 0.35 ct. Fancy Deep yellow-green and a 0.27 ct. Fancy Deep grayish yellowish green marquise cuts. Spectral analysis revealed that these diamonds were irradiated to enhance their body color – a process not usually performed on chameleon stones.

Additional GIA lab notes include an analysis of a large (13.69 mm x 11.80 mm) fine color Quahog pearl with very good symmetry and shape; a report on large specimens of pink and reddish purple cobaltocalcite; a diamond that contains a tiny diamond inclusion that formed in a different geologic environment; and conservation concerns over use of a natural large saltwater clam shell (Tridacna) beads in imitation pearls as all species in this family of mollusks are listed in Appendix II of the Convention on International Trade in Endangered Species of Wild Fauna and Flora (CITES). @chapter:6 @chapter:0 @chapter:6


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Winter 2012 G&G Book Reviews
# Abstract: “Symphony of Jewels: Anna Hu Opus 1”
By Janet Zapata, Carol Woolton, and David Warren, 167 pp., illus., publ. by Vendome Press, New York, 2012. US$75.00

“Celebrating Jewellery: Exceptional Jewels of the Nineteenth and Twentieth Centuries”
By David Bennett and Daniela Mascetti, 323 pp., illus., publ. by Antique Collector’s Club, Wood- bridge, UK, 2012. US$125.00

“Jewels of the Early Earth: Minerals and Fossils of the Precambrian”
By Bruce L. Stinchcomb, 160 pp., illus., publ. by Schiffer Publishing, Atglen, PA, 2012. US$29.99

“The Queen’s Diamonds”
By Hugh Roberts. 319 pp., illus., publ. by Royal Collection Publications, London, 2012. US$95.00

“Amethyst: Uncommon Vintage”
By H. Albert Gilg, Suzanne Liebetrau, Gloria A. Staebler, and Tom Wilson, Eds., 124 pp., illus., publ. by Lithographie, Ltd., Denver, 2012. US$35.00

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:28 @chapter:2 @chapter:28


# Publication Year: 2003
# Title: The First Transparent Faceted Grandidierite, from Sri Lanka
# Abstract: Gemological, chemical, and spectroscopic properties are presented for the first known transparent faceted grandidierite. This jewelry-quality 0.29 ct stone was fashioned from rough reportedly found in the Kolonne area of Sri Lanka. The greenish blue borosilicate has refractive indices of 1.583 to 1.622, which correlate to a low iron content of 1.71 wt.%  FeO and readily separate it from the gem material closest in properties, lazulite. @chapter:14 @chapter:0 @chapter:14


# Publication Year: 2011
# Title: Spring 2011 G&G Book Reviews
# Abstract: “Pearls”
By Hubert Bari and David Lam, 336 pp., illus., publ. by Skira Editore [www.skira.net], Milan, Italy, 2010. US$85.00

“Terra Spinel Terra Firma”
By Vladyslav Y. Yavorsky with Richard W. Hughes, 204 pp., illus., privately published [www.spinelbook.com], 2010. US$95.00

“Colour of Paradise: The Emerald in the Age of Gunpowder Empires”
By Kris E. Lane, 280 pp., illus., publ. by Yale University Press [www.yalepress.yale.edu], New Haven, CT, and London, 2010. US$40.00

“Twentieth-Century Jewellery: From Art Nouveau to Contemporary Design in Europe and the United States”
By Alba Cappellieri, 248 pp., illus., publ. by Skira Editore [www.skira. net], Milan, 2010. US$85.00

“Jewellery from the Orient: Treasures from the Bir Collection”
By Wolf-Dieter Siewert, 320 pp., illus., publ. by Arnoldsche Art Publishers [www.arnoldsche.com], Stuggart, Germany, 2009. US$85.00

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:25 @chapter:2 @chapter:25


# Publication Year: 1988
# Title: The Distinction of Natural from Synthetic Alexandrite by Infrared Spectroscopy
# Abstract: Infrared spectroscopy provides a means to distinguish natural from synthetic alexandrites in the range 2000-4200 cm -1, as determined by a study of spectra obtained from 15 natural and 28 synthetic alexandrites from a variety of sources. The technique is nondestructive and, with Fourier transform instrumentation, extremely rapid. It is especially useful for identifying stones that contain no distinguishing inclusions. @chapter:8 @chapter:0 @chapter:8


# Publication Year: 2015
# Title: “Dragon’s Eye” Fire Agate
# Abstract: Upon close examination, the polished botryoidal knob in this Mexican fire agate resembles a reptilian eye. Photomicrograph by John Koivula; field of view 8.12 mm.

	Found in only a few places in the southwestern United States and Mexico, fire agate is a very finely layered golden brown to reddish brown agate with a botryoidal multi-layered structure. Each of the individual layers in a fire agate is dusted with the iron hydroxide mineral goethite, which provides the brown bodycolor.

	What makes fire agate particularly special is that the ultra-thin coatings of goethite cause a very colorful iridescence, primarily in red, golden orange, and green, but occasionally in violet to blue. The vibrant colors result from interference between light rays that are reflected and refracted while traveling through the gem and reflecting from these ultra-thin layers.

	The finest-quality fire agates can rival Australian black opal. Because they are a form of chalcedony quartz, fire agates are also more durable than opal, making them suitable for virtually any jewelry application.

	The 4.62 ct (10.22 × 9.16 × 7.19 mm) Mexican fire agate studied here, a polished high-dome cabochon, is from the El Terrero mine in the Calvillo Mountains of Aguascalientes State, Mexico. Under close examination, its somewhat ovoid botryoidal structure and fine granular texture, together with the banded red, orange, and green coloration, project the image of a reptilian “dragon’s eye.” As an added bonus, the hotspot created by the fiber-optic light at the apex of the gem adds an elegant finishing touch to the overall image. @chapter:7 @chapter:0 @chapter:7


# Publication Year: 1981
# Title: Scanning Electron Microscopy in Gemology
# Abstract: This article examines both the principles behind the functioning of the scanning electron microscope-energy dispersive spectrometer system and its application to the chemical and structural analyses of gems. The examples presented describe the distinction of natural from treated opals, the relationships observed between a diamond and its kimberlite matrix, the identification of inclusions in ruby and taaffeite, the elemental mapping and chemical analysis of maw-sit-sit, and the study of chemical interrelationships between various types of garnets. @chapter:10 @chapter:0 @chapter:10


# Publication Year: 2013
# Title: Book Review: Gold, Platinum, Palladium, Silver & Other Jewelry Metals: How to Test, Select & Care for Them
# Abstract: By Renee Newman, 144 pp., illus., paperback, publ. by International Jewelry Publications, Los Angeles, 2013. US$19.95.

              “Underpromise, overdeliver…underpromise, overdeliver…” Renee Newman must have been chanting that mantra the entire time she was writing her most recent book, Gold, Platinum, Palladium, Silver & Other Jewelry Metals. It absolutely delivers on the title, but if you were to hide the cover and give the book to someone to read, they would have a hard time guessing its name. They might come up with something like “Contemporary Jewelry and Metals,” but that would miss the mark because of all the historical background. There’s also scientific information about the metals, production technologies from the past as well as today’s cutting-edge processes, and so much more.

Though not characterized this way, there is almost a cradle-to-grave approach at work here. You can learn sources of information about jewelry, old and new, how to verify the nature and quality of the materials, and tips on acquiring jewelry, caring for it, and reselling unwanted pieces. There’s even a bit about do-it-yourself metal testing (you can’t keep a good jewelry appraiser down!) and a simple way to remove tarnish from silver. It’s simply jammed full of a wide range of useful information that’s well illustrated and easily readable. What’s not to love?

Who’s the target reader for this book? That could be just about anyone, from the layperson who wants to know more about jewelry to an industry professional seeking a broader perspective. The book is so wide-ranging that it would be hard to imagine anyone not getting their money’s worth. Broad range can imply a shallow depth, but that is definitely not the case here. One of the first things I do with a book is to peek at its index, bibliography, acknowledgments, and table of contents. This gives me an idea how well researched a book is, and the kind of scope I might expect. Newman’s list of contributors is impressive. The works cited come from a broad range of sources, and the topics span from ancient to cutting-edge.

The book starts with some general background on metals and is arranged in eight chapters that discuss specific metals and families of metals that share common characteristics. The chapters have a nice blending of scientific, historical, practical, and commercial knowledge. In each chapter there are charts to draw distinctions between alloys, clear images of hallmarking stamps one will encounter, and wonderful photographs. The photos offer compelling examples of each metal, showing off its color and beauty and how a variety of makers use it in their designs, along with close-ups that hone in on various details.

Roughly half of the book is devoted to its survey of metals, and the balance is spent covering manufacturing methods, the differences and consequences of real versus fake jewelry (some interesting legal points here), valuation, care, determining fineness or karat value, and plating and coatings. Last but not least, I’m giving the author a Good Citizenship merit badge for including a chapter titled “Responsible Mining and Manufacturing.” Newman rightly points out the more enlightened path that many are taking in this regard. She lists best practices and cites numerous organizations concerned with environmental impact, origin and chain-of-custody issues, health and safety, social responsibility, and ethics. Brava!

You will be enriched by having read this book, and will value and use the information contained within it.

Douglas Hall
Gemological Institute of America
Carlsbad, California @chapter:28 @chapter:2 @chapter:28


# Publication Year: 2023
# Title: Unusual Large Nacreous Pen Pearls
# Abstract: Figure 1. Left to right: Three large nacreous pearls weighing 24.47 ct (pearl 1), 36.58 ct (pearl 2), and 36.70 ct (pearl 3). Photo by Gaurav Bera.
GIA’s Mumbai laboratory has received a wide variety of interesting pearls for identification since opening its pearl testing department in May 2022. One recent submission included three baroque pearls weighing 24.47 ct, 36.58 ct, and 36.70 ct and measuring 28.22 × 18.04 × 9.84 mm, 28.79 × 19.48 × 10.40 mm, and 32.49 × 20.50 × 18.35 mm, respectively (figure 1).

Figure 2. Features characteristic of pen pearls shown on pearl 1. Left: Striated nacre on the white and light gray areas; field of view 3 mm. Right: Non-nacreous structure consisting of a network of cells observed on the dark brown region; field of view 1.3 mm. Photomicrographs by Karan Rajguru.
Visual observation revealed a combination of nacreous and non-nacreous surface structures. The pearls were white to light gray and brown and exhibited a strong orient with variations in saturation and tone. In some areas, their surface quality was poor to slightly damaged. Viewed under 40× magnification, the white to light gray areas displayed a striated and much finer form of nacre growth structure than observed in most nacreous pearls from Pinctada and Pteria mollusks (figure 2, left). The dark brown areas showed a characteristic non-nacreous cellular structure consisting of a network of closely packed cells (figure 2, right). These observations were consistent with previous studies (N. Sturman et al., “Observations on pearls reportedly from the Pinnidae family (pen pearls),” Fall 2014 G&G, pp. 202–215).
Raman analysis using a 514 nm and 830 nm laser excitation was performed on different surface areas. The nacreous areas on all three pearls showed a doublet at 701 and 704 cm–1 and a peak at 1085 cm–1 indicative of aragonite. However, the brown non-nacreous areas on pearls 1 and 2 showed a peak at 712 cm–1 indicative of calcite. Photoluminescence analysis for all pearls revealed weak bands at 620, 650, and 680 nm, suggesting natural coloration (S. Karampelas et al., “Raman spectroscopy of natural and cultured pearls and pearl producing mollusc shells,” Journal of Raman Spectroscopy, Vol. 51, No. 9, 2020, pp. 1–9).

Figure 3. RTX images, μ-CT images, and photomicrographs of the three pearls. The dark organic-rich voids are marked with red arrows, and the external weakened organic-rich areas on the surface are marked with blue arrows. Photomicrographs by Karan Rajguru; fields of view 9 mm (pearl 1) and 16.3 mm (pearls 2 and 3).
Despite the possibility of these three being large blister pearls, closer examination of them did not reveal any indications of previous attachment to the shell such as signs of heavily worked or sawn areas (“Natural shell blisters and blister pearls: What’s the difference?” GIA Research News, August 26, 2019). The lack of such features indicated they were whole pearls. The few small organic-rich areas visible on the pearls’ surfaces (figure 3), along with the non-nacreous and nacreous surfaces, were possibly damaged because the organic-rich material weakened over time.
X-ray fluorescence analysis revealed an inert reaction for all the samples. Energy-dispersive X-ray fluorescence spectrometry showed very low manganese levels (below detection limit in both pearls 1 and 2 and 9.9 ppm in pearl 3) and high strontium levels (1535 ppm, 1682 ppm, and 1250 ppm, respectively). Both analytical results were indicative of a saltwater origin.
Real-time microradiography (RTX) and X-ray computed microtomography (μ-CT) revealed a combination of large voids with some dark organic-rich material surrounded by white walls and fine growth arcs (figure 3). A chambered effect was notable in all three samples. The complex appearance of the voids differed from those observed in most non-bead cultured pearls from the Pinctada species, yet they were similar to nacreous and non-nacreous pen pearls reported in Sturman et al. (2014). The outline of the voids was consistent and followed the shape of the pearls’ surfaces, unlike the irregular and inconsistent voids found in the non-bead cultured pearls. In addition, μ-CT imaging revealed light gray and dark gray areas associated with the presence of organic matter within the voids, a characteristic commonly observed in natural pearls (“Non-bead cultured pearls from Pinctada margaritifera,” GIA Research News, April 27, 2018).
Based on the external and internal structure analysis, the samples were identified as natural pearls from the Pinnidae family (pen pearls). Visual observation, combined with the absence of any evidence of commercial culturing, played a crucial role in their identification. Their size and appearance further supported their classification as natural whole pearls. @chapter:11 @chapter:4 @chapter:11


# Publication Year: 2017
# Title: Raspberry-Red Garnet with Black Core
# Abstract: Figure 1. A very fine 4.5 × 3.1 × 2.1 cm specimen of raspberry-red grossular from skarn deposits, with crystals approaching 1 cm. The matrix consists of calcite, quartz, wollastonite, and scapolite. Photo by Kevin Schumacher.

Raspberry-red grossular garnet mineral specimens have been popular in the collector  market since their discovery in 1994 in the Sierra de Cruces range in the State of Coahuila, Mexico. V.W. Lueth and R. Jones (“Red grossular from the Sierra de Cruces, Coahuila, Mexico,” Mineralogical Record, Vol. 34, No. 6, 2003, p. 73) described the geological environment where the garnet was discovered and the petrological composition of the garnet and matrix (figure 1). An interesting internal characteristic of this type of grossular crystal is its raspberry-red rim and black core with sharp color transition at the core-rim boundary. Lueth and Jones reported that the raspberry-red rim is composed mainly of grossular and the black core contains up to 4.5 wt.% titanium that can be used to calculate additional morimotoite and schorlomite garnet end-member  species (table 1). No detailed chemical analysis of the black core was presented, however. To better understand the composition of this type of garnet, we prepared a thin section sliced from the middle of one garnet crystal (see the color-zoned image in the middle of figure 2) for detailed chemical analysis at GIA’s Carlsbad laboratory.

TABLE 1. Cation site occupancies for garnet end members.

Figure 2. Garnet end-member percentage vs. position profile revealed that the black core of the garnet was rich in morimotoite and schorlomite. The pink rim of the garnet was composed almost entirely of grossular with minor andradite.

The section’s chemical composition was obtained with a Thermo Fisher iCAP Q ICP-MS coupled with a New Wave Research UP-213 laser ablation unit. 29Si was used as the internal standard. GSD-1G and GSE-1G were used as external standards. A line of 33 ablation spots was selected to cross the whole section from one outer rim to the opposite outer rim. The black core contained up to 27.91 mol.% morimotoite and up to 4.07 mol.% schorlomite (figure 2). The detailed composition of the black core of spot 7 to spot 15 (the light blue vertical zone in figure 9) is listed in table 2. The black core contained 4.10–5.04 wt.% TiO2, confirming the analytical results reported by Lueth and Jones, and 4.42–5.49 wt.% FeOtot. It also contained 0.26–0.84 wt.% ZrO2 that could be used to calculate a distinct kimzeyite garnet end-member species (tables 1 and 2; table 1 gives the composition and site occupancy of the end members). It is the first time a detailed chemical analysis of the black core of this type of raspberry-red garnet has been documented.

TABLE 2. Chemical composition of grandite-morimotoite garnet spots by LA-ICP-MS. @chapter:8 @chapter:0 @chapter:8