# Publication Year: 2017
# Title: Imitation Cat’s-Eye Pen “Pearls”
# Abstract: Figure 1. With fiber-optic illumination, a sharp, bright pink chatoyant band extends across the surface of a 1.89 ct dark brown button-shaped imitation pearl perpendicular to its internal fibrous structure. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA.

	Chatoyancy is an optical phenomenon commonly seen in gemstones that have an abundance of parallel solid or hollow long acicular inclusions in which an eye-like band is produced when viewed in strong light. Fine cat’s-eye gemstones of various mineral species are prized; however, natural chatoyancy in pen pearls would be an extraordinary occurrence. During a recent study on reportedly non-nacreous pearls from the Dr. Eduard J. Gübelin Collection, the author found three dark brown button-shaped samples stated to be from a Pinna species mollusk. All three samples displayed an attractive cat’s-eye effect when illuminated under a fiber-optic light or any single white light (figure 1). In each specimen, the chatoyant band manifested as a single bright pink line extending across the surface in a direction perpendicular to the internal fibrous structure.

	Evidence of human manipulation includes fine linear features present in random directions across cellular structures; these are proof of work carried out during the fashioning of the samples into cabochons. Microscopic examination revealed the fibrous structure as numerous well-formed, minute parallel acicular crystals. Infrared spectroscopy subsequently confirmed the crystals to be calcite. The calcite was arranged in a vertical columnar orientation rather than in a radial and concentric structure characteristic of non-nacreous Pinna (pen) pearls, which led to further doubts concerning the “pearl” identity of the samples.

	Microradiography of all three samples revealed tight internal structures. The obvious radial structures that would be expected in pen pearls were not observed (N. Sturman et al., “Observations on pearls reportedly from the Pinnidae family (pen pearls),” Fall 2014 G&G, pp. 202–215). Based on its external and internal features, this material was almost certainly the same type of imitation pearl previously reported in G&G (Winter 2011 GNI, pp. 330–332).

	Fluorescence images taken of one specimen using a polarizing microscope and an ultraviolet excitation filter with a wavelength range of 330–380 nm (figure 2, left) reveal a prominent banded structure at right angles to the calcite columns. When viewed at right angles to their lengths under the same conditions, the long, thin calcite crystals reveal a hexagonal cross-section, creating a striking mosaic or cellular pattern (figure 2, right). The cells varied in form, and their approximate diameters ranged from 15.50 to 38.00 microns.

	Figure 2. Fluorescence images reveal banded features, typical of shell, at right angles to the vertical columnar structure of the calcite crystals (left). A mosaic pattern (right) is apparent looking down the hexagonal cross-section of the calcite columns. Photomicrographs by Artitaya Homkrajae; fields of view 2.88 mm and 1.44 mm, respectively.

	These samples were appealing for the magnificent kaleidoscopic colors that were seen using fiber-optic illumination (figure 3). The semitranslucent to translucent nature of the crystals allowed light to pass through and produce vibrant, colorful scenes owing to the interference of the light rays that were reflected and refracted when interacting with the crystals. As one can see, exploration of the micro-world is not only important to forensics—it can also be quite beautiful.

	Figure 3. Under fiber-optic light, magnificent reflective kaleidoscopic colors of pink, yellow, and green are revealed from the well-formed acicular calcite crystals after mineral oil is applied to the sample’s surface. Photomicrograph by Artitaya Homkrajae; field of view 3.57 mm. @chapter:54 @chapter:4 @chapter:54


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Dealing in Lapis Lazuli from Afghanistan
# Abstract: Sam NaseriGlobal Gems

Interview with Sam Naseri, Global Gems
Mr. Naseri grew up in the lapis trade, working in his father’s business as a young boy. Born in Afghanistan, he rightfully claims a deep knowledge of this gem of his native land.

He starts by showing off his company’s best-quality lapis lazuli samples and describing their various component minerals and grades. His company sells rough, but also makes spheres, carvings, beads, and other items from this lovely blue material.

The best royal blues come from only two mines in the world—in Chile and Afghanistan, with Afghanistan the preferred source. Mr. Naseri explains that older material—from a mine that’s no longer in operation—is of much higher quality than newer material. It’s now extremely rare, and in great demand among gem buyers and consumers.

Surrounded by his company’s product, he demonstrates the entire range of lapis quality. He sprays one of his high-quality samples with water, which brings out its desirable features, then holds two spheres of different grades side by side. He explains that lapis has good hardness, making it easy to polish with the right equipment. Buyers look for as much usable area as possible when buying rough.

When asked how lapis lazuli gets from mine to market, he says it’s carried by cars, horses, humans, mules—any transportation available at the moment. Global Gems sells in the US and internationally. Customers include designers, inlayers, and makers of jewelry and beads. Larger specimens are used for high-end patio and tiling projects.

This series of interview segments reveals a man with a true love for, and deep knowledge about, the beautiful and exotic gem he trades in. @chapter:33 @chapter:2 @chapter:33


# Publication Year: 2012
# Title: Characterization of Colorless Coated Cubic Zirconia (Diamantine)
# Abstract: Over the past several years, diamond simulants have entered the market that consisted of colorless cubic zirconia reportedly coated with a thin layer (e.g., represented to be 30–50 nm) of nanocrystalline diamond particles embedded in a matrix. One manufacturer, Serenity Technologies (Temecula, California), has marketed this material as Diamantine. SIMS chemical analysis of samples obtained from Serenity in October 2009 indicated a very thin (~5 nm) film of carbon (along with Al and Ti) on the CZ surface. Durability tests performed in conjunction with SEM imaging demonstrated that the thin coating does not completely withstand typical gemstone cleaning and handling procedures. The only standard gemological technique that could establish the presence of a coating was EDXRF spectroscopy, which detected Ti from the adhesion layer deposited on the CZ during the initial part of the coating process. @chapter:29 @chapter:1 @chapter:29


# Publication Year: 2016
# Title: Examination of the Largest Canadian Diamond
# Abstract: With the first major discoveries made 25 years ago, diamond mining in Canada is relatively new. The Diavik mine, located in the Northwest Territories about 300 kilometers (190 miles) northeast of Yellowknife, began production in 2003. Today Diavik is Canada’s largest diamond mine by volume, producing approximately six to seven million carats of gem-quality diamonds annually. Much has been reported about Diavik’s extensive efforts (see the lead article of the Summer 2016 issue) to ensure the long-term protection of the land, water, and wildlife that are integral to local traditions and daily life in the Northwest Territories.

	Adding to the significance of the Diavik mine was the spring 2015 recovery of the largest rough diamond ever found in Canada. GIA’s laboratory in New York recently had the opportunity to study this historic stone. The rough weighed 187.66 ct and measured 36.96 × 32.99 × 16.80 mm. Under standard color grading lighting conditions, it appeared pale yellow (figure 1). One side of the diamond displayed clear iridescent color banding due to light interference along the cleavage planes (figure 2, left). The stone showed irregular morphology, with a tabular shape, and was dominated by cleavage faces. Some original faces with dissolution pits were clearly visible (figure 2, center).

Figure 1. This pale yellow type Ia “cape” diamond from the Diavik mine, weighing 187.66 ct, is the largest Canadian diamond to date. Photo by Sood Oil (Judy) Chia.

	When observed under a gemological microscope, the irregular surface etching limited our ability to see clearly into all areas of the diamond. A dark mineral inclusion was noted near one side of the rough (figure 2, right), but little else was readily apparent. Crossed polarizing plates did not reveal any areas of strain. The stone exhibited moderate blue fluorescence to long-wave UV radiation and faint yellow fluorescence to short-wave UV; no phosphorescence was observed. Absorption spectroscopy in the infrared region revealed that it was a type Ia diamond with a very high concentration of nitrogen. A weak hydrogen-related absorption at 3107 cm–1 was also recorded. UV visible absorption spectroscopy, performed at liquid nitrogen temperature, showed typical “cape” lines, with clear absorption peaks at 415 and 478 nm. No other absorption was detected in the UV-Vis region. These gemological and spectroscopic observations confirmed that this was a natural, untreated diamond.

	Figure 2. Iridescent color can be seen along the cleavage plane on one side of the stone (left). Dissolution pits are observed on the surface of the yellow rough (center), and a dark mineral inclusion is clearly visible near the surface (right). Photomicrographs by Kyaw Soe Moe; field of view 14.52 mm (left), 4.79 mm (center), and 7.19 mm (right).

	The diamond, named the Diavik Foxfire, will undergo further scrutiny during the cutting process, in which it will be carefully designed, shaped, faceted, and polished. It will be interesting to see if the rough yields a significant main diamond or is cut into several smaller gems. @chapter:41 @chapter:1 @chapter:41


# Publication Year: 1984
# Title: Identifying Gem-Quality Synthetic Diamonds:  An Update
# Abstract: The existence of gem-quality synthetic diamonds and their potential impact on the marketplace has long been a source of concern to gemologists and gem dealers the world over. While we do not know whether cuttable gem-quality diamonds have been synthesized in other nations, we do know that the General Electric Company has successfully synthesized cuttable gem-quality diamonds in the United States. Eight of these diamonds were studied in an attempt to determine means of identifying them using standard gemological tests. Sophisticated chemical and X-ray diffraction analyses and spectrophotometric and ferromagnetic studies were also performed. Distinctive inclusions, absence of strain in polarized light, electrical conductivity, and absence of both an absorption spectrum and a reaction to long-wave ultraviolet radiation were found to be useful indicators. Magnetism was also found to be a positive basis for separation but is not practical for the jeweler/gemologist. @chapter:39 @chapter:1 @chapter:39


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Designer Shares her Jewelry Inspirations
# Abstract: Paula CrevoshayJewelry Designer

	Interview with Paula Crevoshay, Jewelry Designer
Paula Crevoshay’s one-woman exhibit of her jewelry designs at the Carnegie Museum in Pittsburgh speaks for her esteemed status in the jewelry world. In this GIA exclusive interview recorded at the 2013 Tucson Gem Show, she speaks for herself and her art in eloquent and compelling detail.

Her exhibit (and companion book), Garden of Light, puts her creations on full, colorful display, and here in the video she talks about her creative process. Holding a bedazzling jeweled butterfly in hand, she explains how she most often begins with a center stone—in this case a raw natural pearl. She meditates on it until a vision begins to take shape and form in her mind. Then she begins to incorporate stones that match in sheen and luster and maximize play of color. Crevoshay is proud to wear the crown of “Queen of Color” that admirers in the jewelry industry have placed on her. It fits, she says, because from the beginning of her career she saw herself as a painter who uses gemstones for her color pallet.

Though much the self-described dreamer, Crevoshay is not without a practical side. She relies on such scientific gemological elements as refractive index and Mohs’ scale in making her fanciful choices. And she is not above substituting, say, a chrome oxide for an emerald in order to make an item more price-friendly for a client.

Still, in the end, Paula Crevoshay is an artist, and holds to the artist’s creed that the most important thing in pursuing a vision is to keep it true to yourself and distinctive from all others. @chapter:20 @chapter:2 @chapter:20


# Publication Year: 2017
# Title: Negative Crystals in Sapphires
# Abstract: Figure 1. A beautiful iridescent rosette pattern made up of flattened negative crystals appears around the primary negative crystals when illuminated by oblique fiber-optic lighting. Photomicrograph by Victoria Raynaud; field of view 1.07 mm.

	Negative crystals, or cavities within a crystal, and fluid inclusions occur in almost every mineral. They are generally too small to notice without high magnification, but these modest features hold great beauty and scientific value. These microscopic features are valuable to understanding the growth of continents, the rise of mountains, and the formation of gems. The following photos show beautiful examples of such inclusions in sapphires from the Baw Mar mining area in Mogok, Myanmar. Some of these fluid inclusions are arranged in a “rosette” pattern consisting of a large flattened negative crystal surrounded by smaller ones. This structure is always seen perpendicular to the c-axis (figure 1). The larger primary inclusions like those seen in figure 2 are characterized by their high relief and may display triangular growth markings as well as beautiful iridescence under oblique fiber-optic illumination. Other negative crystals associated with healed fissures are observed in random orientation. The smaller, more delicate fluid inclusions in these structures have a smoother outline, while the fingerprints themselves are often associated with the primary negative crystals.

	Figure 2. These two large primary fluid inclusions containing a black solid phase are associated with fingerprints that have a variable orientation. The photo was taken along the c-axis in darkfield illumination. Photomicrograph by Victoria Raynaud; field of view 1.07 mm.

	The multiphase inclusion in figure 3 contains a gas, a liquid, and at least one solid. When the specimen was gently heated by the microscope’s well light, the gas and the liquid homogenized. Raman spectroscopy identified the gas phase as pure CO2 and the opaque solid as marcasite. Using the same method, we also identified diaspore fibers, seen as faint lines in the inclusions, and a miniscule siderite crystal. Although fluid inclusions are common in most blue sapphires, the examples from Baw Mar reveal these fascinating inclusions in an appealing way.

	Figure 3. Left: A large fluid inclusion containing a CO2 gas bubble and a marcasite crystal. The primary inclusion is surrounded by smaller inclusions that make up a healed fissure. Right: When the sample was gently heated, the gas bubble disappeared as the gas and liquid homogenized. The sample is illuminated using diffused backlighting. Photomicrographs by Victoria Raynaud; field of view 1.20 mm.

	These photos were taken as part of a research project to document the blue sapphires from the Baw Mar mine. The complete report of this study can be found at https://www.gia.edu/gia-news-research/blue-sapphires-baw-mar-mine-mogok-myanmar. @chapter:26 @chapter:0 @chapter:26


# Publication Year: 2000
# Title: A New Lasering Technique for Diamond
# Abstract: A new laser treatment for diamonds, which typically does not have a surface-reaching drill hole, recently entered the trade. For a better understanding of this new technique, observations were made on several round-brilliant-cut diamonds before and after treatment. Diamonds with dark inclusions near the surface are favored for this new method, which causes small cleavages to develop or expand around an inclusion. Once the cleavage reaches the surface, it serves as a conduit for the solution that is used to bleach the dark inclusion. Irregular, wormhole-like channels are used to widen the cleavage to facilitate entry of the bleaching solution. @chapter:41 @chapter:1 @chapter:41


# Publication Year: 2017
# Title: 75th Swiss Gemmological Society Conference and European Gemmological Symposium
# Abstract: The 75th Swiss Gemmological Society (SGS) Conference and 6th European Gemmological Conference (EGC) were held together in Zermatt, Switzerland, June 30–July 1, 2017. Set at the Grand Hotel Zermatterhof, the conference featured 24 renowned speakers delivering a diverse, high-quality program.

Following the welcome address from SGS president Hans Pfister, the first presentation was from Klemens Link (Gübelin Gem Lab, Lucerne, Switzerland) on a new system for age determination of emeralds using laser ablation–inductively coupled plasma–mass spectrometry (LA-ICP-MS). This system provides useful geographic origin information for the gemstone’s owner and high-quality data for scientific research. Ulrich Henn (German Gemmological Association, Idar-Oberstein) surveyed gems from central Namibia, starting with the discovery by German tin miners of tourmaline in Usakos in the early twentieth century. Bernhard Berger (Cartier, Paris) gave a 170-year history of Cartier, with special reference to the 1,800 pieces in the Cartier Collection. Alan Hart (Gem-A, London) delivered an illuminating talk on the Koh-i-Noor diamond from the British Crown Jewels, including its original cutting style prior to recutting in 1852.

Martin Rapaport (Rapaport, New York) was in typical energetic form for his keynote lecture on the state of the diamond industry, in which he highlighted the role of the gemologist. He suggested that gemologists create great value for the trade and should charge twice as much for their services, drawing applause. Vincent Pardieu (VP Consulting SPC, Bahrain) presented on gemstones from East Africa. The challenge and opportunity for the future, he said, would be to balance gem discoveries and conservation, especially with new finds in and around Africa’s national parks. Thomas Hainschwang (GGTL Laboratories, Balzers, Liechtenstein) spoke on GGTL’s initiative to characterize treated diamonds. The aim is to create the most complete data set of natural-color versus treated-color diamonds. Alan Hodgkinson (Scottish Gemmological Association, Edinburgh) pondered the underappreciation of zircon, quoting Basil Anderson’s description of them as “the most mysterious of gemstones.” Henry Hänni (GemExpert GmbH, Basel, Switzerland) presented “sannan skarn,” an ornamental gemstone from Pakistan that resembles maw-sit-sit and was introduced at the September 2016 Hong Kong show. Guillaume Chautru (Piaget, Geneva) spoke on the importance of gemological testing from a jewelry and watch manufacturer’s point of view. Michael Krzemnicki (SSEF, Basel) detailed SSEF’s inclusion research and their new laser ablation–inductively coupled plasma–time of flight–mass spectrometry (LA-ICP-TOF-MS) capability. Michael Hügi, scientific committee chairman of SGS, presented the gems of Switzerland, especially the quartz that became works of art in the hands of European lapidaries from the 14th century onward. The guest of honor at the gala dinner, former Swiss president Adolf Ogi, gave an amusing talk on his career in politics.

The next morning, Hanco Zwaan (Netherlands Gemmological Laboratory, Leiden) discussed the characterization and formation of Sri Lankan metamorphic sapphires. Andrey Katrusha (New Diamond Technology, Russia) detailed the impressive results NDT has achieved in only three years of commercially producing large gem-quality synthetic diamonds. Raquel Alonso-Perez (Harvard Museum, Cambridge, Massachusetts) offered insights into the new emerald deposit in eastern Madagascar, based on her fieldwork there in September 2016. Bruce Bridges (Bridges Tsavorite, Kenya) looked back on 50 years of tsavorite with a video from the famous Scorpion mine and a moving tribute to his father, Campbell Bridges. Wuyi Wang (GIA, New York) updated the conference on synthetic gem-quality diamond and its identification, detailing GIA’s research into this area. Daniel Nyfeler (Gübelin Gem Lab, Lucerne) addressed gemstone traceability and GGL’s work to increase transparency in the colored stone supply chain.

Helen Molesworth (Gübelin Academy, Lucerne, Switzerland and Hong Kong) offered a historical perspective on the gem market using record auction prices and comparing values at different periods using a soldier’s annual salary as a benchmark. Emeralds again came under the microscope in Laurent Cartier’s (SSEF, Basel) talk detailing their history from ancient Egypt to modern Ethiopia. We were treated to the photography of Jeff Scovil (Phoenix, Arizona), who showed how he captures minerals, gems, and jewelry. Joseph Taylor (PT Cendana Indopearls, Indonesia) demonstrated how the Balinese philosophy of Tri Hita Karana is applied to his company’s pearl farm in Indonesia. Willy Bieri (GRS, Meggen, Switzerland) spoke on the identification of the new sapphires being mined near Ambatondrazaka, Madagascar, and their differentiation from Kashmir sapphires. Thomas Hainschwang delivered a talk by Franck Notari (GGTL Laboratories, Geneva) on polycrystalline boehmite needles in corundum, and his proposal to rename these “Rose’s channels” in homage to Gustav Rose, a nineteenth-century German mineralogist.

The next morning, following a trip on the famed Gornergrat Railway, a geological master class was held at an elevation of 3,100 meters. Kurt Bucher (University of Freiburg, Germany) detailed the geology of the Zermatt region.

The SGS 2018 Annual Meeting will take place May 7–8 in Lugano, Switzerland. @chapter:21 @chapter:0 @chapter:21


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Winter 2010 Gem News International
# Abstract: Colored Stones and Organic Materials
	            Amber with Mineral Inclusions
	            Additional Field Research on Tibetan Andesine
	            Aquamarine and Heliodor from Indochina
	            Dark Blue Aquamarine from Tsaramanga, Madagascar
	            Diopside from Pakistan
	            Record-Breaking Emerald Discovered in Hiddenite, North Carolina
	            Emerald-in-Matrix from Bahia, Brazil
	            5th Century Garnet Jewelry from Romania
	            Natural Pearl Diving Off the Coast of Bahrain
	            Update on Ruby and Sapphire Mining in Pakistan and Afghanistan
	            Rediscovery of Sapphires in Central France
	            Update on Sapphire Mining in Southern Madagascar
	            A Strongly Thermoluminescent Spodumene
	            “Neon” Blue-To-Green Cu- and Mn-Bearing Liddicoatite Tourmaline
Instruments and Techniques
	            Use Your LCD Screen as a Gemological Tool
	            Smartphone Photomicrography
Synthetics and Simulants
	            Filled Copal Imitation of Amber
	            Glass with Crystalline Aggregates
	            Synthetic Ruby Specimen Sold as Natural
Miscellaneous
	            Louis XV’s Golden Fleece—Recreated
Conference Reports
	            20th Annual Goldschmidt Conference
	            Carpathian and Balkan Geological Association (CBGA) meeting
	            European Diamond Conference
	            5th International Workshop on Provenance and Properties of Gems and Geo-Materials

To view the full section, download the PDF above.

	DATA DEPOSITORY

Diopside from Pakistan - Faceting Notes
Diopside from Pakistan - Raman Spectra
	January 14, 2011 @chapter:0 @chapter:0 @chapter:0


# Publication Year: -
# Title: The Jewelry of Downton Abbey
# Abstract: Downton Abbey is one of the most popular shows on television, and its authentic costumes and jewelry are part of its charm.

When Caroline McCall, costume designer for the show, wanted jewelry for seasons three and four, she turned to Andrew Prince, a designer with an encyclopedic knowledge of jewelry history and impeccable credentials. Prince created tiaras and jewelry for the 2005 British comedy, Mrs. Henderson Presents (starring Dame Judi Dench); jewelry for the 2009 film, The Young Victoria (starring Emily Blunt and Miranda Richardson); and is a successful designer of his own collection of period pieces.

View Gallery

Working for a show like Downton Abbey is a considerable achievement, and Prince shared his thoughts with GIA about the experience: “It was an absolute thrill to work with Caroline McCall and to be associated with such a hugely successful series. It’s wonderful to see my jewelry being worn by this amazing cast, and adding a little more sparkle to the sumptuous costumes and surroundings of Downton Abbey.”

Prince brought an art historian’s eye to his jewelry. Even the stones were fashioned to mirror the cutting styles of the Edwardian and Art Deco eras. Unlike most costume jewelry used on movie and television sets, Prince’s was made of bronze, brass, sterling silver, palladium, Swarovski crystals, cubic zirconia, and synthetic gemstones.

	Two Russian tiaras inspired Prince when he created this piece.

McCall selected items from Prince's collection, and asked him to create appropriate pieces of jewelry for Lady Violet Crawley (played by Dame Maggie Smith), Lady Cora Crawley (Elizabeth McGovern), Lady Mary Crawley (Michelle Dockery), and several of the other actresses. The jewelry Lady Violet Crawley wears in the photo on the left says much about her personality.

Prince shared his thoughts on the cast photo. He explained that Lady Violet wore the most splendid, formal gems with an air of complete nonchalance, while the beautiful younger ladies had fun with more modern styles. By season four, Lady Edith Crawley (Laura Carmichael) has become much more fashion conscious and daring, while her wild young cousin, Lady Rose MacClare, (Lily James) has embraced all the latest styles of the Jazz Age.

Another character whose jewelry is telling is Lady Cora, who married into British aristocracy. Prince noted that, as an American heiress, Lady Cora would have had the money and access to the greatest designers of the age. These individuals could be very demanding, insisting on the latest designs and the highest quality. He added that there was no British reserve to hold them back.

	Lady Cora Crawley (Elizabeth McGovern) wears a tiara created by Prince.
	Courtesy of Carnival Films and MASTERPIECE on PBS.

The show has since moved through time, from the Belle Époque period (1871 – 1914) to the Art Deco era (1920s – 1930s). Lady Rose is a spirited and rebellious young woman who epitomizes the fashionable flapper of the 1920s. Her personality is revealed by a glittering bandeau. Prince shared some final thoughts on the artistic periods that are so much a part of Downton Abbey: “I particularly love the Belle Époque – such refinement and delicacy. Design mattered more than the monetary value of the stones and precious metals used. The beauty of jewelry from that age lay in its construction. It was all so different and opulent.”

	These Earrings made by Prince for Lady Rose

Now that you know something about the creation and selection of jewelry for the characters of Downton Abbey, you might enjoy another aspect of the show. And you may find that you have a deeper understanding and appreciation of period jewelry – knowledge that’s essential for industry professionals. @chapter:25 @chapter:2 @chapter:25


# Publication Year: 2006
# Title: The Effects of Heat Treatment on Zircon Inclusions in Madagascar Sapphires
# Abstract: Zircon inclusions in sapphires from Madagascar were studied to investigate the effects of heat treatment on their gemological and spectroscopic features. Progressive decomposition of zircon and chemical reactions between zircon and the host sapphire occurred at temperatures between 1400°C and 1850°C. In unheated sapphires, transparent zircon inclusions displayed euhedral slightly elongated forms and clear interfaces with their corundum host. Most were confined within the host under relatively high pressures (up to 27 kbar), and showed evidence of natural radiation-related damage (metamictization). Subsolidus reactions (i.e., the decomposition of zircon into its component oxides without melting) of some zircon inclusions started at temperatures as low as 1400°C, as evidenced by the formation of baddeleyite (ZrO2) and a SiO2-rich phase. Differences in the degree of preexisting radiation damage are the most likely cause for the decomposition reactions at such relatively low temperatures. Melting of zircon and dissolution of the surrounding sapphire occurred in all samples at 1600°C and above. This resulted in the formation of both baddeleyite and a quenched glass rich in Al2O3 and SiO2. From these data and observations, a systematic sequence of both modification and destruction of zircon inclusions with increasing temperature was compiled. This zircon alteration sequence may be used (1) as a gemological aid in determining whether a zircon-bearing ruby/sapphire has been heated, and (2) to provide an estimate of the heating temperature. @chapter:19 @chapter:0 @chapter:19


# Publication Year: 2016
# Title: Color-Change Glass as a Zultanite Imitation
# Abstract: Figure 1. These glass imitations of Zultanite are shown in fluorescent (left) and incandescent light (right). The color-change effect is apparent when switching between the two illumination types. Photos by Xiaoyan Yu.
Diaspore, a relatively common mineral with the chemical formula AlO(OH), is found in metamorphic bauxite deposits (A.A. Calagari and A. Abedini, “Geochemical investigations on Permo-Triassic bauxite horizon at Kanisheeteh, east of Bukan, West-Azarbaidjan, Iran,” Journal of Geochemical Exploration, Vol. 94, No. 1, 2007, pp. 1–18), and usually appears as a mineral inclusion in sapphire, ruby, and spinel (V. Pardieu, “Hunting for ‘Jedi’ spinel,” Spring 2014 G&G, pp. 46–57; Spring 2016 GNI, pp. 98–100; Summer 2016 GNI, pp. 209–211). However, gem-quality transparent diaspore is rare and appears to be unique to the Ilbir Mountains area in southwest Turkey (M. Hatipoglu et al., “Gem-quality transparent diaspore (zultanite) in bauxite deposits of the Ilbir Mountains, Menderes Massif, SW Turkey,” Mineralium Deposita, Vol. 45, No. 2, 2010, pp. 201–205). Zultanite is the trade name of diaspore that exhibits a color-change effect; the material appears yellow, pink, or green in different light sources. Zultanite has only been found in the Anatolian Mountains of Turkey (M. Hatipoglu and M. Akgun, “Zultanite, or colour-change diaspore from the Milas (Mugla) region, Turkey,” Australian Gemmologist, Vol. 23, 2009, pp. 558–562).

The Gemological Institute of China University of Geosciences in Beijing recently received two samples, an unmounted 8.44 ct 10 × 12 mm faceted pear-shaped specimen and a ring with an 8 × 10 mm faceted oval, that displayed a color-change effect. The material was reportedly purchased from Turkey as Zultanite, a designation the client wished to confirm. Both samples were yellowish green in  fluorescent light with a color temperature of 5500 K (figure 1, left) and brownish yellow in incandescent light (figure 1, right). The specimens were fairly clean, with no obvious inclusions and no obvious scratches on the surface. Facet junctions were generally smooth, with small chips. A series of absorption lines related to rare earth elements (REE) were observed by a handheld prism spectroscope. These properties, along with electron microprobe analysis, indicated that the two samples were not diaspore or any other natural material, but rather man-made glass. The infrared spectrum of the unmounted specimen, with peaks at 1037, 462, 443, and 430 cm–1, confirmed the material was glass.

LA-ICP-MS data of three points on the loose sample are reported in table 1. The main trace elements were Nd (102,792 average ppmw) and Pr (68,500 average ppmw), both rare earth elements. Other REE included Gd (1473 average ppmw) and Ce (135 average ppmw). Nd and Pr are the chromophores that cause color change in material such as synthetic cubic zirconia (Fall 2015 GNI, pp. 340–341).

TABLE 1. LA-ICP-MS data of glass sample (ppmw).

Element
TG1-01
TG1-02
TG1-03

Ti
65.55
64.02
64.13

V
0.618
0.614
0.621

Cr
0.740
0.832
0.818

Mn
0.882
0.861
0.756

Fe
50.68
49.78
51.31

Co
0.0462
0.0444
0.0444

Ni
0.2291
0.2124
0.2062

Cu
13.14
12.80
13.02

Se
0.75
0.75
0.71

Rb
3.63
3.51
3.50

Sr
68.23
66.01
66.26

Y
2.381
2.29
2.319

Cs
0.028
0.0273
0.028

La
4.78
4.55
4.56

Ce
139.42
133.47
134.65

Pr
69,791.21
67,327.64
68,381.69

Nd
104,391.56
100,985.23
103,001.10

Sm
0.307
0.311
0.301

Eu
0.372
0.356
0.353

Gd
1482.77
1452.45
1480.22

Tb
24.41
23.51
23.85

Dy
8.42
7.98
7.92

Ho
0.658
0.617
0.611

Er
31.30
30.25
31.00

Tm
bdl
bdl
bdl

Yb
0.2224
0.1979
0.2197

Lu
bdl
bdl
bdl

Rare earth elements are displayed in bold text. bdl = below detection limit.

The visible-range absorption spectrum of the loose material (figure 2) showed a typical spectrum of glass with rare earth elements. This spectrum showed bands at 443, 479, 529, and 587 nm. The bands at 443, 479, and 529 nm indicate the presence of Pr3+, which caused the green or yellowish green color. The brownish yellow color is related to the 587 nm absorption peak, which is induced by Nd3+.

Figure 2. The visible absorption spectrum of the unmounted pear-shaped sample shows
four absorption bands at 443, 479, 529, and 587 nm. The peak at 587 nm is associated
with Nd3+, while the bands at 443, 479, and 529 nm are attributed to Pr3+. @chapter:3 @chapter:0 @chapter:3


# Publication Year: 2002
# Title: Chart of Commercially Available Gem Treatments
# Abstract: This chart combines a comprehensive listing of the commercially available treatments for the most commonly used gem materials with an indication of the current status of their detectability. Designed as a supplement to “Gemstone Enhancement and Detection in the 1990s,” from the Winter 2000 issue of Gems & Gemology, this chart makes the key information available in an easy-to-use reference tool. @chapter:35 @chapter:1 @chapter:35


# Publication Year: 2013
# Title: Faceted Wurtzite from Tanzania
# Abstract: Figure 1. These wurtzites are from Merelani, Tanzania. The crystal measures 17 mm across, and the cut stones weigh 1.74 and 1.59 ct. Photo by Jaroslav Hyršl.

Wurtzite is the hexagonal polymorph of ZnS. It is far less common than sphalerite, the cubic polymorph of ZnS. All previously identified wurtzite has been opaque to translucent, and therefore not facetable. Layers of wurtzite and sphalerite can alternate in so-called Schalenblende, a colloidal sphalerite variety used only rarely for cabochons. The first transparent wurtzite crystals were found in 2012, at the tanzanite deposit at Merelani Hills, south of Arusha, Tanzania (for identification, see www.rruff.info). The crystals, which measure up to 2 cm in diameter, are very rare. They have a tabular shape, with pyramidal faces. Some crystals from Merelani have clean parts, and several gemstones were faceted from them (figure 1).

Eight cut stones weighing 0.30–1.74 ct were studied. They were orange-brown, with a submetallic luster and very weak, almost invisible, pleochroism. Refractive indices of these stones were well over the refractometer limit, listed as 2.36 and 2.38 in the literature (J. Bernard and J. Hyršl, Minerals and their Localities, Granit, Czech Republic, 2004, p. 666). They had very low birefringence, confirmed by a lack of doubling of facet edges. The determined specific gravity values of two of the crystals were 3.78 and 3.85; their measured hardness was 3.5. The stones were uniaxial positive and inert under both long- and short-wave UV. Their UV-Vis-NIR spectrum (figure 2) exhibited a high cut-off at 545 nm. The stones showed anisotropic crystals and hexagonal growth structures when viewed under a microscope. Because of the rarity and high value of the Tanzanian crystals, the faceted wurtzites are sure to catch the attention of gemstone collectors.

Figure 2. The UV-Vis-NIR spectrum of a 1.74 cut wurtzite from Tanzania. @chapter:12 @chapter:0 @chapter:12


# Publication Year: 2022
# Title: Barite-Calcite Composite as Imitation “Wulanhua” Turquoise from Hubei Province, China
# Abstract: Figure 1. The bracelet submitted as “Wulanhua” turquoise. Photo by Shu-Hong Lin.
“Wulanhua” turquoise is well known in the Taiwan and mainland China market. It has also been called “Ulan flower” turquoise in previous publications (L. Liu et al., “Unique raindrop pattern of turquoise from Hubei, China,” Fall 2020 G&G, pp. 380–400). The term “Wulanhua” is a Chinese transliteration that means black orchid, and it usually refers to turquoise of medium dark to very dark blue color with a black spiderweb pattern found in Hubei Province.
A bracelet recently submitted to Taiwan Union Lab of Gem Research (TULAB) as Wulanhua turquoise (figure 1) contained dark blue opaque beads with a black spiderweb pattern on the surface. The spot refractive index of these beads was about 1.62–1.63, close to that of turquoise. EDXRF analysis determined that the composition of the beads was inconsistent with that of turquoise (CuAl6(PO4)4(OH)8•4H2O). Instead, it was composed mainly of barium (Ba) and calcium (Ca).

Figure 2. A bead from the bracelet was cut into two halves. One half was immersed in 95% ethanol for 72 hours, clearly extracting the blue dye. Photos by Yu-Ho Li.

Figure 3. Raman spectra comparisons between the bead, the blue dye precipitate, and those of barite and calcite from the RRUFF database suggest that the bead consisted of barite, calcite, and blue dye. The stacked spectra are baseline-corrected and normalized.
To further identify the composition, Raman spectra (785 nm laser) were analyzed and compared with those from the RRUFF database. The beads displayed mixed spectra of barite, calcite, and other unknown materials. With the consent of the client, a bead was cut into two halves and polished for more testing. One half was immersed in 95% ethanol for 72 hours to extract the dark blue dye (figure 2). After the ethanol volatilized, the blue precipitate was analyzed with Raman spectroscopy and the spectrum was compared with that of the bead and the spectra from the RRUFF database. Raman analysis and the extraction experiment revealed that this material was composed of barite and calcite with an unidentified blue dye (figure 3). Microscopic observation of the cross section suggested that the beads were made of irregularly shaped barite and barite with minor calcite particles with an unknown black filling as a bonding material (figure 4).

Figure 4. The cross section of one bead showed irregularly shaped barite and barite with minor calcite particles, along with a black filling that could be some unknown bonding material. Photomicrograph by Shu-Hong Lin; field of view 8.56 mm.
The beads could be defined as a composite material made of barite (BaSO4), calcite (CaCO3), and blue dye. While visual observation and refractive index might not be enough to distinguish these beads from true Wulanhua turquoise, Raman spectroscopy and EDXRF analysis were able to reveal their true identity. @chapter:7 @chapter:0 @chapter:7


# Publication Year: 2021
# Title: Novelty Cut Diamond Faceted as Iconic Apple Logo
# Abstract: Figure 1. This 1.13 ct Fancy yellow diamond resembles the iconic Apple logo. Photo by Diego Sanchez.

A novelty cut 1.13 ct Fancy yellow diamond was recently submitted to the Carlsbad laboratory for color origin and identification service. The diamond was cut in the shape of a bitten apple and bore a striking resemblance to the iconic Apple logo found on Apple Inc. products (figure 1). Standard FTIR absorption spectrum identified it as a type Ia diamond with high nitrogen concentration. Standard UV-Vis spectroscopy revealed the typical UV-Vis absorption spectra of cape diamond, with the N2 (478 nm) and N3 (415.2 nm) defects that are responsible for the fancy yellow color in the “Apple” diamond. The stone showed strong blue fluorescence when exposed to long-wave UV radiation, typical of cape diamond (figure 2).

Figure 2. The novelty cut diamond showed strong blue fluorescence under long-wave UV light. Photo by Diego Sanchez.
New cutting styles of diamonds are often designed either for efficient light return and weight retention properties or to resemble other items. Examples of the latter include the sword-shaped diamond with “fire and ice” fluorescence (Fall 2020 Lab Notes, pp. 416–419) and the “seated Buddha” (Fall 1996 Gems News, p. 215). This particular diamond was most likely fashioned in the shape of an apple as a novelty and to retain weight, as the stone showed significant windowing, which suggests that the rough was too shallow to allow for more efficient light return. This unique shape for a faceted diamond is a welcome addition to the wide range of novelty cut diamonds currently available in the trade. @chapter:36 @chapter:1 @chapter:36


# Publication Year: 2023
# Title: Apatite in Hackmanite
# Abstract: Figure 1. A hackmanite with a faded purple color after storage in the dark (left), illuminated with long-wave UV light (center), and after removal from a few seconds of exposure to the long-wave UV light (right). The color has deepened after exposure to UV light. Photos by Ronnakorn Manorotkul.
Hackmanite, Na8Al6Si6O24(Cl2,S), is a variety of sodalite notable for its tenebrescence. When kept in darkness, samples can fade to pale purple and even gray or translucent to opaque white. When exposed to long-wave ultraviolet illumination, they can display a strong orange fluorescence reaction. After exposure to sunlight or artificial light with a UV component, samples can quickly develop a much stronger color. One hackmanite sample recently examined by the author (figure 1) showed this phenomenon.

Figure 2. Left: In darkfield illumination, a white apatite crystal is visible in the hackmanite. Right: After exposure to long-wave UV light for approximately one second, a dramatic change can be seen. The overall color of the hackmanite is now a more vivid shade of purple. Photomicrographs by E. Billie Hughes; field of view approximately 5 mm.
Another hackmanite was submitted that displayed an interesting elongated white inclusion (figure 2, left) that was identified by micro-Raman as apatite. As we examined the sample in the microscope, we tried exposing it to a 6-watt long-wave UV light for approximately one second. Almost immediately, a change was observed. The hackmanite developed a more vibrant purple color that is clearly displayed in figure 2 (right). @chapter:15 @chapter:0 @chapter:15


# Publication Year: 1984
# Title: The First-Order Red Compensator: An Effective Gemological Tool
# Abstract: This note deals with some gemological applications for a tool well known to microscopists: the first-order red compensator. In gemological microscopy, the compensator can be useful in locating interference colors and optic figures in birefringent materials and in delineating strain in gemstones. In polarized light photomicrography, a properly positioned compensator can reduce the exposure time required and thus the risk of film reciprocity failure and of poor-quality images resulting from random vibrations of the microscope and its accessories. @chapter:18 @chapter:1 @chapter:18


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Jeweler Creates ‘Medal of Honor’ Pin to Recognize Coronavirus Health Care Fighters
# Abstract: The Defeating the Coronavirus pin by Franco Valobra and his team at Valobra Master Jewelers. Valobra is making a gift of this pin to front line heath care workers taking care of COVID-19 patients. Photo courtesy of Valobra Master Jewelers

Franco Valobra, like many of us, stayed home during the global coronavirus pandemic. New Orleans, which was hit hard and fast by the virus in the early days of March, ordered businesses to shut down March 15 and Valobra quickly closed his boutique on Royal Street.
“I vowed to keep all of my staff on full payroll and I did the same for our showrooms in Houston and Switzerland,” he said. The Lugano, Switzerland boutique closed first, in early March, because of its proximity to Lombardy, the region hardest hit in Italy. “Fortunately none of my staff and family have been infected by the virus, but I have had lots of friends’ families in Italy who directly experienced the malignity of COVID-19. Thankfully, no one has died.”
Valobra, restless at home in his living room “quarantine office,” watched the images of front line health care workers and first responders fighting to save lives. He also saw people around the world sharing expressions of gratitude for their immense sacrifice and commitment.
“The passionate serenading from balconies, the protracted applauses from windows and the flyovers of the Air Force jets, are, indeed, great pronouncements of universal gratitude and heartfelt appreciation,” he said. “But the musical notes are so regretfully and quickly lost in the air and the rumble of the airplanes turns into fleeing plumes of jet exhaust.”

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Valobra, a GIA graduate, wanted to create a more durable symbol of gratitude for health care workers fighting the coronavirus.
“It took me no more than a few minutes to conceptualize the ‘Defeating the Virus’ pin,” he said. “I had a clear image of the symbol of medicine (the caduceus, a commonly used symbol), stabbing through the coronavirus, but also clearly towering over and overpowering it. The ratios needed to be better than 2:1 — the caduceus being at least twice as big as the virus.”
Once the final drawing was done, Valobra asked his in-house CAD designer to create a rendering and his team of bench jewelers in Houston (which re-opened on May 1) started to manufacture them. The pins are completely hand-made and cast in sterling silver and then are gold-plated. Each features a round garnet, the gemstone that symbolizes health and crisis resolution.

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The team has been able to produce 25 to 35 pins a day and to-date more than 500 have been shipped all over the world: Saudi Arabia, Pakistan, Israel, Canada, Italy, most countries in Europe and virtually every state in the U.S., including Alaska. All of the pins are a gift from Valobra to the recipients.
“Naturally lots of them were sent to Texas, Louisiana and New York,” Valobra said, adding that the first five celebratory pins were shipped to the Coronavirus Task Force at the White House (President Trump, Vice President Pence, Dr. Anthony Fauci, Dr. Deborah Birx and Surgeon General Dr. Jerome Adams).
Valobra originally committed to make and give away 1,000 pins, but has decided to gift as many as he can. He said anyone is welcome to contact wecare@valobrajewelry.com to nominate a worthy recipient (someone who is going above and beyond the call of duty in a hospital, health care center, testing facility, laboratory, etc.).
Valobra has received many notes of thanks from health care workers who have received the Defeating the Coronavirus pin.
“As respiratory therapist, we are usually not mentioned as frontline health providers, but the word “ventilator” is mentioned often. Respiratory therapists specialize in the skills of cardiopulmonary care that determine the appropriate ventilator settings to match the patient’s needs. We stand with the warriors of the frontline and we are an essential component for the patients,” said Rosalind Lyssy, of Houston. “To me, the pin is a symbol of being appreciated and recognized on the front line. Thank you for the honor of letting me wear it.”

Franco Valobra in the Valobra Master Jewelers showroom in Houston, Texas. Photo courtesy of Valobra Master Jewelers
Valobra hopes the “Defeating the Virus” pin will be worn on lapels of medical scrubs and lab coats for years to come.
“To me, it represents the soon-to-materialize defeat of the virus, a symbol of human triumph through science and medicine,” he said. “I wanted to gift these modern-day heroes with my own style of the Medal of Honor.” @chapter:47 @chapter:3 @chapter:47


# Publication Year: 2017
# Title: Yellow, Green, and Blue Sapphires Reportedly from Antang and Gombe, Nigeria
# Abstract: Figure 1. These sapphires (0.64–8.27 ct) are from Antang and Gombe, in northern Nigeria. Photo by Shunsuke Nagai.
GIA’s Tokyo laboratory borrowed 19 sapphires (figure 1) from gem dealer Ambrose & Co. in Kofu, Japan. The samples consisted of eight blue, one bluish green, eight yellow, and one greenish yellow/blue bicolor sapphires, all faceted. They were reportedly from Antang and Gombe in northern Nigeria (figure 2). Mambilla, in the southeastern part of the country, is the only well-known Nigerian sapphire source (V. Pardieu et al., “New Nigerian source of blue sapphire,” 2014, https://www.gia.edu/doc/Nigeria_Mambilla_Sapphire_US.pdf; Spring 2017 GNI, pp. 134–135), and the two new sources are not well documented.

Figure 2. Map of Nigerian sapphire sources. Sapphires from the new deposits at
Antang and Gombe have potentially high quality.
Sapphires from both Antang and Gombe are basalt related. The mines are located in a basement complex and on Cretaceous/Tertiary sedimentary rocks near volcanic rocks. The sapphires are mined in alluvial deposits or unconsolidated sediments. According to the dealer, the blue sapphires were from Antang and the yellow sapphires and bicolor sapphire from Gombe. Brume Jeroh, the supplier in Nigeria, mentioned that Antang produces blue, green, yellow, and parti-color sapphires, while Gombe produces mainly yellow sapphires and a few blues. He also noted that stones from these sources may have been mixed together at the market in the city of Jos.

The samples’ standard gemological properties are listed in table 1. Refractive index and specific gravity values were all within the range of corundum. Representative inclusions observed in these sapphires are shown in figures 3 and 4. Quantitative analysis of trace elements was carried out with LA-ICP-MS, and the results are summarized in table 2 and figure 5.

TABLE 1. Standard gemological properties of sapphires from northeastern Nigeria.

Samples
Color
Weight (ct)
Refractive index
Specific gravity
Source

N01
Yellow
2.84
1.763–1.770
4.00
Gombe

N02
Yellow
2.07
1.765–1.773
4.02
Gombe

N03
Yellow
2.06
1.764–1.772
4.00
Gombe

N04
Yellow
1.84
1.764–1.771
4.00
Gombe

N05
Yellow
1.28
1.764–1.772
4.01
Gombe

N06
Yellow
1.21
1.767–1.772
3.99
Gombe

N07
Yellow
1.03
1.762–1.770
4.00
Gombe

N08
Yellow
0.94
1.762–1.770
4.00
Gombe

N09
Yellow
0.78
1.762–1.770
3.99
Gombe

N010
Greenish yellow and blue
2.04
1.762–1.770
4.03
Gombe

N011
Bluish green
3.51
1.764–1.772
4.01
Gombe*

N012
Blue
2.09
1.763–1.772
4.00
Gombe*

N013
Blue
8.27
1.760–1.768
3.99
Antang

N014
Blue
2.15
1.762–1.770
4.00
Antang

N015
Blue
1.82
1.762–1.770
4.00
Antang

N016
Blue
1.16
1.762–1.770
4.00
Antang

N017
Blue
0.97
1.765–1.770
3.99
Antang

N018
Blue
0.88
1.764–1.771
3.99
Antang

N019
Blue
0.64
1.760–1.768
3.98
Antang

*Samples N11 and N12 were supplied as Antang sapphires but could be Gombe sapphires that were mixed at the market in Jos. This study identified their origin as Gombe based on LA-ICP-MS results.

Figure 3. Inclusions in sapphires from Gombe: healed fissures with hazy edges (A), irregular particles and short needles (B), wavy graining (C), and flake-like particles (D). Photomicrographs in darkfield illumination (A–C) and diffused brightfield illumination (D) by Shunsuke Nagai. Fields of view 1.95 mm (A), 2.15 mm (B), 2.80 mm (C), and 2.80 mm (D).

Figure 4. Inclusions in sapphires from Antang: zircon crystals (A), reflective thin films with hexagonal patterns (B), bands of minute particles and short needles (C), and angular banding and perpendicularly oriented particles (D). Photomicrographs in darkfield illumination by Yusuke Katsurada (A–C) and Shunsuke Nagai (D). Fields of view 2.80 mm (A), 1.00 mm (B), 4.00 mm (C), and 4.30 mm (D).

Figure 5. LA-ICP-MS quantitative analysis allowed the separation of blue sapphires from Antang and yellow sapphires in some trace elements (e.g., Fe vs. V and Fe vs. Ga). The two parts (N10Y and N10B) of the bicolor sapphire show a close trend. The bluish green sapphire (N11) and blue sapphire (N12) are considered to be from Gombe. Results are not averaged.

TABLE 2. Trace element concentrations (in ppma) obtained by LA-ICP-MSa.

Sample no.
Be
Mg
Ti
V
Cr
Mn
Fe
Ga

N01
0.38
11.4
10.9
1.65
bdl
0.18
2610
68.9

N02
bdl
14.2
12.6
2.0
0.28
0.21
2790
60.9

N03
bdl
15.8
12.1
0.47
bdl
0.08
2970
36.7

N04
bdl
22.8
21.4
1.51
2.36
0.25
3860
39.0

N05
bdl
16.0
13.3
1.88
1.05
0.03
2660
71.6

N06
0.45
20.2
17.6
2.27
3.36
0.04
2667
66.1

N07
bdl
14.9
12.4
1.69
bdl
0.13
2900
70.7

N08
bdl
12.3
33.8
1.04
bdl
bdl
1930
89.9

N09
bdl
16.2
14.2
1.82
0.61
0.11
2760
71.0

N010Y
bdl
15.4
13.7
1.66
bdl
0.10
2740
68.0

N10B
bdl
8.98
40.2
1.67
bdl
0.03
2490
66.6

N011
bdl
10.8
14.6
2.04
21.9
0.27
4000
67.9

N012
1.19
6.88
17.5
1.80
bdl
bdl
2380
78.9

N013
bdl
2.25
21.2
4.79
20.9
0.06
807
45.6

N014
bdl
12.8
21.4
6.82
0.37
0.06
1290
49.7

N015
bdl
7.37
92.0
8.79
3.27
bdl
924
56.4

N016
bdl
13.4
60.6
7.22
bdl
0.11
1280
61.0

N017
bdl
8.16
18.4
5.20
5.03
0.03
1470
54.1

N018
bdl
5.10
30.0
6.47
18.3
bdl
1190
49.7

N019
bdl
4.27
30.1
5.89
4.81
bdl
1260
52.7

aAverage of three spots
			bdl: below detection limit

The yellow sapphires and the greenish yellow part of the bicolor sapphire showed a typically high Fe, and their Mg concentration is greater than Ti except for one sample (N08; again, see table 2). As shown in figure 5, the high Fe (approximately 2000 ppma) and medium V (approximately 0.50–2.00 ppma) of all the yellow sapphires (N01 to N09) and the greenish yellow part of the bicolor sapphire (N10Y) showed the same trend as those of a bluish green sapphire (N11) and one blue sapphire (N12). The greenish yellow part of the bicolor sapphire (N10Y) matches other yellow sapphires in all elements, and the blue part of the bicolor (N10B) overlaps with N11 and N12. The titanium levels are significantly different between the two parts of N10. This matters, as the titanium is necessary for blue coloration in sapphire with iron. N11 and N12 show different trends from other blue sapphires (from N13 to N19) for V, Fe, and Ga. This suggests that these two samples originated from a different locality. Given that these two samples’ trace element composition is close to that of the blue part of the bicolor sapphire (N10B) and different from the rest of the blue sapphires, we considered them to be from Gombe (again, see table 1). In addition, inclusions exhibited in figure 4 in N13–N19 were not seen in N11 and N12, and these two samples had similar features to each other, as shown in figure 3. Greenish blue and blue sapphires (N11 and N12) and the blue part of the bicolor sapphire (N10B) from Gombe show high Fe (approximately 2000 ppma) and medium V (approximately 1.50–2.00 ppma). Blue sapphires from Antang (from N13 to N19) show lower Fe (approximately 800–1500 ppma) and high V (approximately 4.50 ppma).

Although sapphires from these two new Nigerian sources are limited in quantity and color range, they are potentially high quality. The importance of the sources is not yet known, and more field data and advanced testing data such as quantitative analyses of trace elements are needed. Despite the different trends in some trace elements between the localities, as this study revealed, they still overlap with trace elements of different magmatic origins including Mambilla (data not shown). Since characteristic inclusions are not always present in basalt-related sapphires and trace elements cannot always be separated, origin determination of these sapphires remains challenging. Interpretation of trace element data such as discriminant analyses and the building of a rich database are necessary. @chapter:0 @chapter:0 @chapter:0


# Publication Year: 2011
# Title: GIA’S Symmetry Grading Boundaries for Round Brilliant Cut Diamonds
# Abstract: Grade boundary limits are presented for 10 symmetry parameters of the round brilliant cut diamond. Starting in early 2012, these values will be used to support and constrain visual symmetry grading on GIA diamond reports. For manufacturers, the boundaries provide useful predictions of symmetry grades. Other symmetry features of faceted diamonds will continue to be evaluated visually. @chapter:41 @chapter:1 @chapter:41


# Publication Year: 2023
# Title: The history of gemstones in Chanthaburi_22
# Abstract: In the early 2500s, many believe it marked the beginning of a new decade for gemstone production and trade in Chanthaburi. This could be attributed to a coup d'état in Myanmar during that period, which led to several ruby mines becoming inaccessible. As a result, some gemstone producers and traders moved from Myanmar to Thailand. Additionally, Thailand itself had ruby mines located along the Thai-Cambodian border. @chapter:40 @chapter:2 @chapter:40


# Publication Year: 2013
# Title: Cobalt-Doped Composite Sapphires: A Blessing or a Curse?
# Abstract: Gem mining is expensive and it is economically important to be able to enhance stones of lower quality. Treatments allow increasing the supply of gemstones making them available at affordable prices. Treated gemstones have been flooding the markets. The potential damage is a loss of consumer confidence. Are cobalt-doped composite sapphires a blessing or a curse? Only time will tell.

		Treatments of corundum are meant to enhance transparency, color, and stability, or to create optical effects.  Treatment options include: fissure filling with oil, dying, heating, irradiation, surface diffusion, heating with borax, lattice diffusion of beryllium, lead glass fissure filling, and cobalt glass fissure filling.

		Glass infilling in blue sapphire was developed by Tanusorn Lethaisong in Chantaburi in 2007, and in May 2012, a “new” type of cobalt-colored sapphire became available in the Bangkok market. Christopher P. Smith, in his recent article (“Cobalt-Colored Composite Sapphires,”InColor, Spring 2013,No. 22, pp. 32−37), explains what the fuss was all about.

		He discovered the sapphires to be a composite of natural, low-grade corundum and a high-lead glass that induces blue coloration and enhances clarity. The result is a sapphire with a medium-saturated color.

		These stones are not a challenge for a trained gemologist to identify. Gemological properties include readily evident color concentrations in surface reaching fissures and cavities, innumerable spherical to flat contraction bubbles, a “flash effect,” naturally occurring crystals, and short, fine unaltered rutile needles. The intact rutile indicates that the treatment takes place at relatively low temperatures.

		Figure 1:  Spherical to flattened contraction bubbles, irregular black reflective particles, “flash effect,” and color concentrations are observed in these glass-filled sapphires. Photo courtesy of Christopher P. Smith, InColor.

		The refractive index of the lead glass is similar to that of the host corundum, but the glass has a lower hardness. As a result, the polished surfaces of the stones reveal a mosaic network of narrow to thick tracks of glass. The stones glow bright red with the Chelsea filter. Using a standard hand-held spectroscope, a series of three distinct absorption bands positioned at approximately 528, 588, and 635 nm readily identify cobalt to be the main coloring agent. Such cobalt-related absorption bands do not occur naturally in sapphire.

		Figure 2:  Broad absorption bands centered at approximately 528, 588 and 635 nm identified the coloring agent as cobalt. Photo courtesy of Christopher P. Smith, InColor.

		Infrared spectroscopy recorded absorption bands at approximately 2290, 2620 and 3490 cm-1. These bands are related to the glass component of the composite sapphires. These specimens require special care, as standard manufacturing and bench jeweler practices, as well as household products can readily cause damage by etching the glass. The product has been classified as “composite sapphire” by the AGL (American Gemological Laboratories).  An in-depth study by Leelawatanasuk et al. (“Cobalt-doped glass-filled sapphires; an update”, The Australian Gemmologist, ,Vol. 25, No. 1, 2013, pp. 14–20)  provided additional information on the properties of the cobalt-colored composite sapphires. The report noted slightly elevated specific gravity in some specimens and a lack of pleochroism.DiamondView images showed a chalky blue fluorescence caused by the glass-filled fissures, and filled fractures appeared white on X-ray images.

		The value of a gemstone depends on its inherent beauty and rarity. The artificial modification of a gemstone greatly reduces the rarity and therefore lowers the value. Treatment of these “composite sapphires” requires special care to retain it, or else the benefit of the treatment will be lost over time. The Federal Trade Commission therefore requires proper disclosure to buyers. @chapter:19 @chapter:1 @chapter:19


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Sri Lanka: From Mine to Market, Part 1
# Abstract: Sri Lanka’s gemstone and jewelry industry blends traditional practices and experience with the needs of the modern global market. Photo by Andrew Lucas/GIA.

                      To visit Sri Lanka is to experience one of the great gem sources and trading centers in the world. This country has a rich, almost unparalleled tradition and remains vitally important to the modern gemstone market. Sri Lanka has a true mine-to-market industry, both domestically and for export. Its evolution over the last two decades blends the best of traditional practices with modern technologies and business models.

In this field report, we take you on an expedition to this magnificent island and its remarkable mine-to-market industry.

Sri Lanka has produced a wide variety of gemstones, including cat’s-eye chrysoberyl. Photo by Andrew Lucas/GIA.

	An Amazing Island
Traveling in Sri Lanka, you realize it is a large island with very diverse environments. Most of the terrain consists of flat or rolling hills, but there are beautiful mountains in the southern central interior. Agriculture is a constant presence as you drive around the country, with intense green rice fields and rubber tree plantations.

In Elahera’s rice fields, there are treehouses for agricultural workers to climb into when a herd of wild elephants passes through. In Ratnapura, Elahera, and Balangoda, green rice fields also enclose small pit-mining operations, sometimes covered with V-shaped roofs for a little protection from rain and sun. Gaining elevation, you encounter beautiful tea plantations where it is common to see workers picking tea leaves by hand. Driving along the coast offers views of Sri Lanka’s beautiful coastline and fishing industry.

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	Island Images
Sri Lanka has two monsoon seasons that occur at different times of the year depending on the part of the country. The northeast has monsoons from December through March. In the southwest, where most of the mining takes place, the monsoon season lasts from June to October. As in many places throughout the world, weather patterns in recent years have not been as predictable as they were in the past. We encountered mostly good weather, but intermittent rainstorms occurred regularly, interrupting mining operations.

	History, Culture, and People
It is believed that Sri Lanka has been inhabited by humans for more than 300,000 years. The main ethnic group is the Sinhalese, representing about 73 percent of the population. They arrived from India in about the late sixth century BC. Buddhism came to Sri Lanka around the third century BC, and today it is the main religion of the Sinhalese people and the island. The Tamil people, from the Tamil area of India, are primarily Hindu. There is also an important Muslim and Christian population, leading to a rich diversity that is reflected in domestic jewelry design preferences, especially for weddings.

Sri Lanka's rich cultural heritage has become a major tourist attraction as visitors seek to learn more about this island and its people, which in turn has stimulated the economy. One of the cultural heritage sights we visited as we traveled to gem mining areas was Sigiriya, a UNESCO World Heritage site.

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	Sigiriya Images

	Experiencing Sigirya

	Tradition, Experience, and Modernization: The Best of All Worlds
In documenting Sri Lanka’s entire mine-to-market industry, one of the most fascinating aspects is the harmonious and productive blend of tradition, experience, and modernization. This was apparent in the mining, trading, cutting, treatment, jewelry manufacturing, and retail sectors. Mining is done primarily by traditional methods, and it is small-scale by choice and design. Cutting is a fascinating blend of hand-powered techniques, utilizing some of the world’s greatest expertise in orientation of rough, and a growing precision cutting and recutting industry that maintains the strictest tolerances.

	Cutting in Sri Lanka often relies on decades of experience rather than sophisticated or automated techniques. Photo by Andrew Lucas/GIA.
The trading sector combines knowledge and experience acquired over decades, if not centuries, with modern global business models. Just as mastering sapphire heat treatment helped the Thais become dominant players in the global corundum market, the Sri Lankans have great expertise in getting the best yield and color out of sapphire.

Jewelry design and manufacturing is directly tied to the domestic retail market as well as the market for Sri Lankans living abroad. Traditional 22K gold jewelry is in high demand for weddings as well as for investments and as a financial asset to pawn in times of need. At the same time, the market has adjusted to a younger generation with more varied tastes, while aiming to increase tourist purchases and broaden export markets.

	Pits, Mud, Gravel, and Gemstones
Gemstone mining in Sri Lanka is mostly from secondary deposits. The gravels yield sapphire, ruby, cat’s-eye and other chrysoberyls, spinel, garnet, beryl, tourmaline, topaz, quartz, and many other gemstones. Sri Lanka’s gem-bearing gravels, called illam, are some of the richest in the world. The island was blessed with geological conditions that provide an ideal blend of chemistry, heat, pressure, time for gem crystals to grow, and weathering for the gem crystals to be deposited and concentrated in gravels.

Gemstone deposits in Sri Lanka contain gem-bearing gravels called illam. Photo by Andrew Lucas/GIA.
Besides the well-known Pangaea, which existed about 300 million years ago, there were several other supercontinents in Earth’s early history. Their assembly and breakup cycles helped form most of the world’s gem deposits. Some of these cycles are directly related to gem formation in Sri Lanka.

Assembly of the Gondwana supercontinent was a slow process that took place over millions of years, between 550 and 950 million years ago (Ma), when global forces led to large-scale structural changes in the earth’s crust and upper mantle. The resulting collisions formed the Mozambique Belt, which extends from Mozambique to Ethiopia and Sudan, and also covers most of Madagascar, the southern tip of India, Sri Lanka, and the east coast of Antarctica. Sri Lanka occupied a critical area of Gondwana, and many of its gemstones are believed to have formed between 539 and 608 Ma, a time of peak metamorphism for the area.

Most of the gem deposits are in an area called the Highland Complex, extending northeast to southwest and containing high-grade metamorphic rocks. One major primary sapphire deposit was discovered by accident in 2012 near Kataragama, but it was not producing at the time of our visit, and subsequent mining of the area has produced no commercial yields. A full geological study of the deposit has not been performed, however, so the true potential of this area remains unknown.

	The Highland Complex of Sri Lanka is the most important area for formation of
	gemstone deposits. Illustration by Peter Johnston, © GIA.

Sri Lanka’s commercially important colored gemstone deposits come from weathered alluvial gravels. We visited the mining areas around Ratnapura, Balangoda, and Elahera. Although these make up only a small percentage of the island’s gem deposits, they gave us a representative overview of mining operations throughout the country. All of these were secondary gravel deposits. We did not find any active primary deposits at the time of our visit.

The mining operations we visited represented all three types of Sri Lankan gemstone mining: pit, mechanized, and, in this case, river. Photo by Andrew Lucas/GIA.

	Mining
Mining licenses in Sri Lanka are regulated by the National Gem and Jewellery Authority (NGJA). Of the more than 6,500 licenses issued in 2013, more than 6,000 were for pit-mining operations using traditional methods. The remainder went to river and mechanized mining. Licensing for mechanized mining follows very strict guidelines, and only about ten were issued in 2013.

	Most of the gemstone mining in Sri Lanka done by hand in open pits. At this larger pit,
	miners toss up the gravel in baskets. Photo by Andrew Lucas/GIA.
Many of the trade and regulatory bodies in Sri Lanka are against large-scale gemstone mining. They consider traditional small-scale mines less harmful to the environment and a more stable source of employment for more people.

To give an idea of scale, the standard pit mine in Sri Lanka consists of a vertical shaft that measures two by four meters. If the pits are deep and in harder ground, the miners might dig a two by two meter square pit or a two-meter round pit. Depth can range up to 50 meters, though most pits are between 5 and 25 meters.

	Most pit-mining operations in Sri Lanka are relatively small vertical shafts. Mining relies
	on muscle power, not mechanization. Photo by Andrew Lucas/GIA.
Many of the licensees have four to five traditional mining pits on their property. It’s estimated that more than two million pits have been dug over the last 50 years. Compared to gem mining in many African countries, there are hardly any unfilled, abandoned pits. This is partly because the National Gem and Jewellery Authority (NGJA) collects a cash deposit when a license is issued. If the mine owner does not rehabilitate the land after mining is complete, the NGJA uses the deposit money for that purpose.

There are usually several people involved in the venture, including the landowner, the holder of the mining rights, the person who supplies the water pump to remove water from the pit, and the miners. They all receive a share of the proceeds from the sale of the gemstones.

Although not as prominent, river mining is another traditional form of gem mining in Sri Lanka. Rivers in gem-producing areas can contain alluvial deposits where the river bends or otherwise slows down. The river miners pick these slow-moving areas in relatively shallow waters and build a dam of wood or rock where the water slows, allowing it to escape from one side while trapping the gravels.

Mechanized gem mining is very limited in Sri Lanka. Photo by Andrew Lucas/GIA.
Using metal blades attached perpendicularly to long wooden poles called mammoties, the miners scoop up the gravel and remove the overburden until they reach the illam. Then they use long pointed steel rods to loosen the illam and drag it up, allowing the rushing water to wash the gem-bearing gravel. They remove any visible gemstones, and the remaining gravel can undergo further washing.

Mechanized mining occurs when it’s determined that traditional methods won’t apply to the deposit at hand, if the concentration of gems is too low for pit mining, or if the threat of illegal mining activity requires quick mining of the deposit. There are a limited number of mechanized operations, and the requirements are stringent.

	Cutting
It is easy to overlook the importance of traditional cutting in Sri Lanka, which is often associated with bulky cuts. These traditional cutters use simple hand-powered cutting machines to produce some of the best-oriented stones in the world. Their ability to orient a stone for the best face-up color or placement of a star or cat’s-eye, while retaining maximum weight from the rough, is remarkable.

	Their equipment appears primitive, but the skill level of Sri Lanka’s traditional cutters is unsurpassed among traditional cutters. They have a wealth of experience in orienting a rough stone to obtain the best face-up color. Photo by Andrew Lucas/GIA.

	Expert Cutting in Colombo

Traditional cutting may in fact be the best technique for some high-end sapphires or stones where the placement of color is critical. There is also a growing demand for Sri Lankan recutting to meet customer specifications. Global clients have different proportion expectations—some allow windows, for instance—and recutting stones that have already been oriented for best color can make them less bulky. The cutters can remove enough windowing to suit a customer’s needs while retaining as much weight as possible. There is also a growing precision-cutting industry in Sri Lanka that meets the strictest tolerances of proportion, symmetry, and calibrated size tolerances.

	Precision Cutting

	Interviewing a Master Cutter

	Trading
Surpassed by Thailand in the 1970s and ’80s, Sri Lanka has modified its business strategy and import/export regulations to restore its position as a major global power in colored gemstone trading. By simplifying the import process and removing prohibitive duties, Sri Lankan dealers are now able to buy rough sapphire from anywhere in the world, including major sources such as Madagascar. They can apply their knowledge and be competitive in obtaining the raw materials to fuel their industry. Abandoning protectionist import regulations on rough from foreign sources has actually saved Sri Lanka's gemstone industry from remaining a smaller player. A smoother export process has also attracted foreign buyers to the country.

Foreign buyers often work with trusted local contacts who bring in a wide variety of inventory from other dealers to their offices. Photo by Andrew Lucas/GIA, courtesy Sapphire Capital Group-Sapphire Cutters.
We visited Sri Lankan dealers in Colombo and Beruwala, as well as mine markets in Ratnapura, Balangoda, and Elahera. The mine markets were bustling with activity among Sri Lankan dealers and foreign buyers. The dealers were often in the outdoor street markets and in offices or cutting facilities. There were also heat treaters, known as burners, at all of the major markets. Many of the foreign buyers sought the guidance of a trusted local dealer who would have other dealers bring in goods for sale. These trusted dealers would also be consulted for quality, price, and the potential for recutting and further heating.

Beruwala has a large, bustling street market for gemstones. Photo by Andrew Lucas/GIA.
New consumer markets such as China have revitalized gem trading in Sri Lanka. This has led to increased imports from global sources, while fueling the need for Sri Lankan dealers’ expertise and experience to satisfy the demands of Chinese manufacturing and domestic consumption.

	Inside the Sri Lankan Gem Trade

	Coming Next
In Part Two, we will reveal aspects of the Sri Lankan gemstone and jewelry industry that have seldom been covered, especially by outsiders. The country’s jewelry manufacturing and retail industries are very dynamic, blending strong traditions with important innovations. These sectors of the Sri Lankan industry are very different from their counterparts in other parts of the world such as the United States, Europe, Japan, and China. We will show you the sites we visited so you can get a better sense of this famous and exotic trade center. @chapter:33 @chapter:2 @chapter:33


# Publication Year: 1989
# Title: Emerald and Gold Treasures of the Spanish Galleon Nuestra Señora de Atocha
# Abstract: During the 1970s and 1980s, treasure hunters discovered the centuries-old remains of the sunken Spanish galleons Nuestra Señora de Atocha and Santa Margarita. Not only did they find massive amounts of silver and gold in coins, bars, and chains, but they also uncovered a number of rough emeralds and several pieces of emerald-set jewelry. Recently, some of the treasures recovered from the Atocha were examined at the Santa Monica office of the GIA Gem Trade Laboratory. Gemological testing of the emeralds revealed inclusions typical of stones mined in Colombia as well as possible evidence of extended submersion in seawater. Study of the jewelry revealed a high-karat gold content and fine workmanship that represented methods typical of the era. @chapter:31 @chapter:2 @chapter:31


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Professional Jewelry Designers Offer Tips to Students
# Abstract: Paul Klecka encouraged students to focus on what they do best. “You can always hire out the rest,” he said. Photo by Eric Welch/GIA

                      Learn as much as you can. Understand that you’re probably going to have to start at the bottom. Follow your passion. And most importantly, believe in yourself.

This is just some of the advice members of the American Jewelry Design Council (AJDC) shared with GIA students when they visited the Carlsbad campus last week. The designers were in California for their annual meeting and took the opportunity to tour the campus and participate in a panel discussion on how to succeed as a designer. Here are more of their tips:

DON'T STOP LEARNING

Get as much education as you can in all aspects of the jewelry business. -- Mark Schneider

Learn as much as possible about what you’re interested in. “Learn through academic classes -- stone setting, rubber mold making, design, fabrications -- so you can speak the language. Then you can speak to your customers, vendors, suppliers or people who are going to work for you, and fully understand this medium. The more knowledge you have, the broader base you have and the more appealing you’ll be to somebody else. Then, if an opportunity comes up, you’ll be able to fill it.” -- Alan Revere

Figure out what your strengths are and focus on them. Get other people to help you with the other aspects of your business (managing, selling, etc.). “It’s hard to have (and use) the left brain and the right brain in the same person.” -- Scott Keating

Learn how to render your designs digitally. “There are jobs out there, but they want you to know Photoshop and Rhino on the computer.” -- Diana Vincent

GET YOUR NAME OUT THERE

Use Facebook and Twitter. “You can do a lot and get your name out there and get exposure for very little money.” -- Keating

Send your portfolios to jewelry magazines. “You’ll be surprised how much they use them; they’re looking for things to talk and to write about.” -- Susan Sadler

Get your jewelry on people. “If that means giving it away, give it away. If it means selling it, sell it. It doesn’t do any good to be in your drawer, so try and spread it around.” -- Revere

Go to every trade show you can. “Have your resumes ready -- it’s face-to-face-contact and exposure.” -- Schneider

Connect and network at conferences. (Two suggestions: Society of North American Goldsmiths, American Craft Council). “Go and see what everyone else is doing and you’ll meet an enormous number of people who have the same questions and problems, but they share their solutions.”  -- George Sawyer

Wear your own jewelry. “Everybody should be wearing their jewelry -- it attracts people’s attention … and they’ll ask about it.” -- Revere

	Students hung on every tip the designers offered. Photo by Kevin Schumacher/GIA
BECOME BUSINESS-SAVVY

You will have to pay your dues. “No one here is an overnight success. Keep your faith and plan on working extremely hard. Take entry-level jobs. They may not pay very well, but it’s the best information and you’ll learn more from on-the-job experience than anything else.” -- Schneider

Don’t try to chase the market – chase your own ideas. “Always reserve a portion of your life for the reason you probably started out, and that is to make things that you like to make. Don’t try to chase the market to see what’s selling … it’s a mistake a lot of people make and you can never catch up. To make yourself be original is more fun.” -- Sawyer

There is no specific formula for success. “There is no specific data that will tell you: you do one, and then after one, you do the second, third, fourth and fifth steps and you’ll become a successful designer or businessman.” -- Alishan Halebian

Make the leap from artist to business negotiator. “If a buyer is wowed by your work, approach [the negotiations] from a reality base and say ‘Look I’m a young artist, I’m just starting out, you love what I did, so you need to buy it because I can’t afford to finance your store. You need to pay me up front or you need to pay me half now so I can make the pieces, then pay me half on delivery. If you cannot do that, I’ll take my fabulous piece and market it elsewhere.’ And believe me, if it’s that fabulous, someone will want it and go on those terms. Don’t be afraid to explain that you're small and starting out or don’t have the ability to financially make the deal the way they might expect. Don’t undersell yourself and always base your negotiations on your own capabilities based on reality.”  -- Paul Klecka

Get it in writing. “You might want to have a consignment contract in place if you leave your work with the store. Talk to other artists about what the wording of a contract would be or ask the gallery or store if they have a contract.” -- Barbara Heinrich

Work within your ability to fulfill orders. “Grow within the abilities you have. If [the order] is going to be something that can’t be fulfilled or you can’t make it to the quality and controls you want, I would advise you to stay within your abilities to fulfill it. Then you’ll grow. Every sale you make you’ll learn something from.” -- Schneider

Jump in with both feet. “Don’t hold back. Don’t wait for anyone to come to you. It doesn’t matter what you do, but you have to be true to yourself and do it with a lot of enthusiasm and then it will come to you.” -- Sawyer

	Christoph Krahenmann acknowledged the difficulty of getting started in a down economy, but urged students to believe in themselves. Photo by Kevin Schumacher/GIA
IT'S ALL ABOUT THE DESIGN

Design drives the planet. “It’s what makes people want to buy the new iPhone 3GS --they’re sleeping on the sidewalk to get it, right? Look at a company like Crocs that came out of nowhere with innovative rubber footwear … it’s great stuff and it’s for a lot of people. It’s not exclusive, it’s inclusive. Somewhere someone was inspired to do it, whether it’s a phone or shoes.” -- Klecka

Find your own style. “Look what’s out there so you know what not to do, then find your own truth and try to be original, then you’ll stand out.” -- Vincent

Brand your designs. “Put a design element in that is uniquely yours, you’ll develop a brand that will be recognizable for you.” -- Schneider

Spend your time on design pieces you love. “When you say, ‘Oh, I’m going to design something that’s going to sell in this price range,’ you’re starting from the bottom [of your ideas]. That energy comes out in the piece and I can guarantee nobody’s going to want it. You have to love that piece, and when you love it -- even when you’ve scaled it down [from your original idea] to meet the [market] criteria -- that energy will get across to the customer. They’ll feel it without even knowing it, and it will sell.” -- Vincent

Trust yourself and your message. “You matter and your unique vision of this world and what’s important and your values, matter. It’s important that you trust yourself and connect with yourself to bring your vision forward to make this world a more joyful, wonderful place. There is no right or wrong. ” -- Heinrich

Create an emotional response. “If what you do in your designing, or in your career, can create an emotional response with others, then you’ve succeeded.” -- Klecka @chapter:45 @chapter:3 @chapter:45


# Publication Year: 2016
# Title: Trapiche Rhodochrosite
# Abstract: Figure 1. The trapiche-like rhodochrosite “flower” on the left, measuring 30 mm across and weighing 35 ct, is from Argentina’s Capillitas mine. This piece appears to be formed by the intersection of three crystals, with 60° of separation. The 56 ct rhodochrosite specimen on the right, also from the Capillitas mine, measures 40 mm across. Photos by Russell E. Behnke; from the author’s collection.

	It is not often that a very old locality produces a gem material previously unrecorded in the literature. Yet the Capillitas mine in Argentina’s Catamarca Province, once mined by the Incas and long known for its fine rhodochrosite stalactites, has yielded two trapiche-like rhodochrosite gemstones, first observed by the author in August 2014.

	The stalactite that produced these two slices was reportedly found in the 1980s. The smaller of the two specimens, a 30 mm round weighing 35 ct (figure 1, left), is a symmetrical example of this rhodochrosite’s cogwheel habit. The 40 mm oval, which weighs 56 ct (figure 1, right), was cut from the same stalactite; it is the only other example of this formation the author could locate.

	Rhodochrosite from the Capillitas mine typically consists of minute crystalline grains. These two examples, however, are very coarsely crystalline and are quite possibly twinned, which would explain both the unusually large size of these crystals and their obvious symmetry.

	Dr. Carl Francis, former curator of the Mineralogical Museum of Harvard University, points out that stalactites of calcite, which are chemically and structurally similar to rhodochrosite, rarely exhibit this type of growth (pers. comm., 2014). The floral pattern of these red gemstones makes them beautiful and incredibly rare. @chapter:7 @chapter:0 @chapter:7


# Publication Year: 2017
# Title: The World’s Biggest Diamonds: Windows into the Earth’s Deep Mantle
# Abstract: For geoscientists and gemologists alike, the origins of large, high-clarity, and relatively pure diamonds, like the Cullinan and the 812.77 ct Constellation on the cover of this issue, have long been an enigma. In a December 2016 Science article, a team of researchers led by GIA’s Dr. Evan Smith provided important insights into how these rare and extraordinary gems form deep in the earth’s mantle.

Natural diamonds are science’s best tools for understanding the depths of the earth.

That article presented evidence that such Cullinan-like, nitrogen-poor “CLIPPIR” diamonds contain high-pressure mineral inclusions that are only stable at depths of 360–750 km (approximately 225–465 miles). By contrast, the bulk of gem-quality diamonds form in the base of continental tectonic plates at depths of 150–200 km (95 to 125 miles). Inclusion-bearing CLIPPIR diamonds constitute only 1 in 10,000 of those submitted to GIA’s laboratories. The inclusions these big diamonds carry—iron-nickel metal with minor sulfur and carbon—truly are a window into the earth’s deeper mantle. In our lead paper, Evan Smith and Wuyi Wang partner with Steven B. Shirey of the Carnegie Institution for Science to build on the landmark Science article. They provide more detail on the key features of these remarkable diamonds as well as data on additional samples.

Our second paper, by Robert Weldon, Cathleen Jonathan, and Rose Tozer of GIA’s Richard T. Liddicoat Library, explores the astonishing work of a multigenerational family of gem carvers: the Drehers of Idar-Oberstein, Germany. The authors focus on the contemporary craft of Gerd Dreher and his son, Patrick, artisans with an unerring ability to channel the spirit of the animals they model from high-quality rough gem minerals and richly patterned agates.

In our third paper, Laura Otter, Oluwatoosin Agbaje, Le Thi-Thu Huong, Tobias Häger, and Dorrit Jacob present the first gemological characterization of Australian akoya cultured pearls using Raman, photoluminescence, FTIR, and UV-Vis spectroscopy. Unlike many other akoyas, these Australian examples are marketed without any post-harvest treatments involving dyes or bleaches.

Next, Jennifer Stone-Sundberg, Timothy Thomas, Ziyin Sun, Yunbin Guan, Zachary Cole, Randy Equall, and John Emmett introduce a set of new reference standards designed to improve the quality of trace element analysis in ruby and sapphire. These standards use corundum substrates rather than the typical silicate glasses produced by the National Institutes of Standards and Technology (NIST). This important paper documents the development of corundum sets with precisely known levels of beryllium, magnesium, titanium, silicon, vanadium, chromium, iron, and gallium using secondary ion mass spectrometry (SIMS).

Stefanos Karampelas, Abeer Tawfeeq Al-Alawi, and Ali Al-Attawi provide a comparison of real-time X-ray microradiography (RTX) units fitted with different detectors. Their analysis demonstrates the superior resolving power of a flat panel detector (FPD) over an image intensifier (II) for interpreting fine detail in a pearl’s internal growth structure.

And to complement our emerald and sapphire charts from Winter 2016 and Summer 2017, we present a new one featuring some characteristic internal features of natural, treated, and synthetic ruby. This chart is from GIA’s team of inclusion specialists, led by Nathan Renfro and John Koivula.

As always, there’s something for every gemological taste in our Lab Notes, Gem News International, and Micro-World sections.

Finally, I encourage you to join us for the 2018 GIA Symposium, October 7–9 in Carlsbad, California. This promises to be an unforgettable learning and networking event. You can register to attend or submit an abstract for an oral or poster presentation at symposium.gia.edu. @chapter:44 @chapter:1 @chapter:44


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Winter 2016 G&G: Exploring Jaipur’s Gem Industry, New Gem Sources, and Inclusions in Emerald
# Abstract: In recent years, the Indian city of Jaipur has emerged as a cutting, manufacturing, and retail powerhouse. The lead
article in this issue looks at the city’s history and profiles some of its more prominent jewelers. The cover shows a
bracelet created by Jaipur’s Birdhichand Ghanshyamdas Jewellers. Inspired by the Amer Fort, a UNESCO World
Heritage Site, the bracelet is comprised of canary diamonds, polki diamonds, and a stunning emerald at its center.
Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA, courtesy of Birdhichand Ghanshyamdas Jewellers.

	The Winter 2016 issue of Gems & Gemology boasts a wealth of information blending the old and the new. The lead article profiles the emerging powerhouse of Jaipur, India. The legendary colored gemstone cutting center has become a jewelry manufacturing and retail giant to rival other major players in the industry. Other features include the early synthetic emeralds of Richard Nacken, Vietnamese danburite, and field report from Mozambique, and a wall chart of emerald inclusions.

	JAIPUR, INDIA: THE GLOBAL GEM AND JEWELRY POWER OF THE PINK CITY

	Rubies in a modern invisible setting are combined with polki diamonds in this fusion-style ring. Photo courtesy of Birdhichand Ghanshyamdas Jewellers.

The northern Indian city of Jaipur, long a center for colored gemstone cutting, has expanded to include jewelry design, manufacture, and retail. A team led by Andrew Lucas and Nirupa Bhatt explores the city’s historical relevance to the gem trade and visits several local manufacturers and retailers to examine the scope and impact of their operations.

	SYNTHETIC EMERALDS GROWN BY RICHARD NACKEN

	Synthetic emeralds produced by Richard Nacken in the mid-1920s. Nacken left these and other samples to his family, and they are now in the possession of his grandsons. Photo courtesy of E. Schlatter.

	Dr. Karl Schmetzer and his coauthors recount an important milestone in gemology: the first gem-quality synthetic emeralds of facetable size. The article reviews the events that led to Nacken’s successful emerald growth, along with the chemical, morphological, and microscopic properties of his production. They also address longstanding speculation that Nacken collaborated with IG Farben on synthetic emerald growth.

	A NEW FIND OF DANBURITE IN THE LUC YEN MINING AREA, VIETNAM

	Five rough danburite crystals, in sizes up to 2.5 cm, were found at the Bai Cat deposit in Luc Yen, Vietnam. One, weighing 26.3 ct in rough form, was cut into the 4.6 ct faceted oval. Photos by Le Thi-Thu Huong.

Danburite has been discovered in the gem-rich region of Luc Yen, Vietnam. The rare material, found in 2015, is honey yellow in color and shows excellent transparency. A team led by Le Thi-Thu Huong investigates the properties of this new find.

	INCLUSIONS IN NATURAL, SYNTHETIC, AND TREATED EMERALD

	This emerald contains a brown crystal of the rare mineral parisite. There is also an oil-filled cavity showing a blue and orange flash effect, along with two large trapped gas bubbles. This inclusion suite verifies the natural origin of this emerald; it also confirms that the stone, which shows signs of clarity enhancement, is from Colombia. Photomicrograph by John I. Koivula; field of view 3 mm.

	The Winter issue boasts a new wall chart displaying common inclusions found in natural, synthetic, and treated emerald. Among the contributors to the chart are inclusion specialists John Koivula, Nathan Renfro, Jonathan Muyal, and Shane McClure. The accompanying article provides a brief overview of inclusion studies.

	UPDATE ON GEMSTONE MINING IN NORTHERN MOZAMBIQUE

	A parcel of mainly green and yellow tourmaline from Ocua, Mozambique. Photo by Vincent Pardieu/GIA.

	In 2016, a field gemology team from GIA Bangkok traveled to northern Mozambique to visit the world’s largest ruby source and to observe developments at various new deposits. The resulting field report by Wim Vertriest and Vincent Pardieu documents production of ruby, spinel, and tourmaline in the region, as well as plans for future operations.

	LAB NOTES

	Updates from GIA’s labs around the world include reports on a CVD synthetic diamond weighing over 5 ct, the largest HPHT synthetic diamond to date, and synthetic sapphire and synthetic spinel doublets.

	MICRO-WORLD

G&G’s photomicrography section features entries on chalcedony with quartz windows showing Brazil-law twinning, a demantoid from Namibia with sphalerite inclusions, and a feldspar with an apatite cluster just below the surface.

	GEM NEWS INTERNATIONAL

	Sapphire production from one day of mining in Tasmania. The trapiche-type sapphire in the center weighs 2.73 ct. Photo by Vincent Pardieu/GIA.

	The Winter GNI section includes a crystal of blue dravite-uvite tourmaline from Afghanistan’s Koksha Valley, a look at “trapiche-type” sapphire from Tasmania, and an investigation of “decorated” jadeite jade.

	2016 DR. EDWARD J. GÜBELIN MOST VALUABLE ARTICLE AWARD

	Readers are invited to vote for the Most Valuable Article from 2016. Click here to vote for the top three articles from our contributors; voting will remain open until Monday, March 7, 2017. All ballots will be entered into a drawing to win a one-year subscription to G&G. @chapter:33 @chapter:2 @chapter:33