# Publication Year: 2019
# Title: Artificial Glass Imitating Blue Amber
# Abstract: Figure 1. This 139.34 ct piece of artificial glass bore a striking similarity to blue amber. Photo by Lai Tai-An Gem Lab.

Artificial glass, a low-cost material, is capable of simulating any gemstone owing to its range of appearances (bodycolor, transparency, and phenomena). While this material is usually straightforward to identify, in some cases it is visually similar to the gem material being imitated. The Lai Tai-An Gem Laboratory recently received an object for identification that the client claimed was blue amber, but was subsequently determined to be artificial glass (figure 1).

Figure 2. Examination with a gemological microscope revealed gas bubbles. Photomicrograph by Lai Tai-An Gem Lab; field of view 2.6 mm.

Figure 3. Comparison of the infrared spectra for amber (red trace, collected by the author) and the artificial glass imitation (blue trace). The absorption at 1077 cm–1 is assigned to artificial glass.
The transparent, irregularly shaped, brownish yellow object with a bluish surface-related effect and vitreous luster weighed 139.34 ct and measured 37.0 × 33.2 × 28.6 mm. While it closely resembled amber, its heft was completely at odds with that expected for an amber of its size, providing the first important clue about its identity. Standard gemological testing revealed a spot refractive index of 1.50, a specific gravity of approximately 2.50 (amber’s is 1.08), a weak chalky blue reaction under short-wave ultraviolet radiation, and an inert response to long-wave UV. Inspection with a gemological microscope revealed gas bubbles (figure 2). Standard gemological testing confirmed that the item was not amber but artificial glass, though more advanced analysis was carried out. Fourier-transform infrared (FTIR) spectrometry was consistent with data we obtained on some samples of known glass (figure 3), confirming the identity. Energy-dispersive X-ray fluorescence (EDXRF) spectrometry also detected Si and Pb as the main chemical elements.
Blue amber’s optical effect, produced by the extremely shallow blue fluorescence stimulated by UV light, is strictly confined to the surface. A strong blue fluorescence under long-wave UV radiation is also typical in such amber, so the inert reaction also indicated the material's artificial nature. The object exhibited a similar optical effect when viewed at different angles or when the direction of illumination changed.
In our experience, it is uncommon to see this type of artificial glass imitating blue amber. The gas bubble inclusions, while typical of glass, may also be encountered in amber, so additional gemological analysis may be necessary to ensure the correct identification. This case clearly illustrates how artificial glass can imitate virtually every gemstone imaginable and mislead the unwary bargain hunter. @chapter:24 @chapter:0 @chapter:24


# Publication Year: 2014
# Title: Record-Size Natural Moissanite Crystals Discovered in Israel
# Abstract: Figure 1. The largest known natural moissanite crystal, found along the Kishon River in northeastern Israel, measures 4.1 mm in its longest dimension. Photo by Vered Toledo.

Synthetic silicon carbide (SiC) is well known in the gem and jewelry market as synthetic moissanite. Natural SiC is very rare and has been found as tiny crystals (usually less than 1.5 mm) in only a few deposits worldwide (Y. Bauer et al., “Moissanite from middle mountains of Czechoslovakia,” International Geology Review, Vol. 7, No. 7, 1965, pp. 1194–1206; A.A. Shiryaevet et al., “Moissanite (SiC) from kimberlites: Polytypes, trace elements, inclusions and speculations on origin,” Lithos, Vol. 122, No. 3–4, 2011, pp. 152–164, and references therein).
Over the past 14 years, however, more than 2,500 crystals of natural moissanite have been discovered by Shefa Yamim, an Israeli exploration and mining company. The crystals come from primary and alluvial deposits along the Kishon River, near Haifa in northern Israel. Shefa Yamim began prospecting in this area following the 1988 prophetic statement of the Lubavitcher Rebbe that “precious stones and gems” would be discovered in the valley next to Haifa (see video at http://youtu.be/_uzY5mV8rdY). In 2000, the company unearthed moissanite crystals ranging from 0.1 to 1 mm in size; two years later, 2.2 mm crystals were found. In 2009, a 3.5 mm moissanite discovery set a world record, only to be surpassed in August 2012 by a crystal measuring 4.1 mm—the largest specimen to date (figure 1 and http://goo.gl/JZFiwe).
There is evidence of even larger crystals, as many broken crystals were discovered. Some crystals have also been found in situ in the volcanic rock of the Rakefet magmatic complex, one of the magmatic bodies of Mount Carmel, just southeast of Haifa, which is drained by a small tributary to the Kishon River.
We studied 30 Israeli crystals ranging from less than 1 mm to 3.5 mm. All were identified as moissanite (SiC 6H) by Raman spectroscopy. Their morphology was hexagonal, bipyramidal to platy, with the pinacoid generally present (figures 2 and 3). The crystals were often broken, particularly the larger ones with rounded, shiny surfaces (again, see figure 1). As shown in figure 3, the crystals were transparent and ranged from deep blue (the most common color) to light green. Except for size, these characteristics are similar to those of other natural moissanites documented in the literature. The crystals are often associated with small bits of creamy white or red complex matrix.

Figure 2. These natural moissanite crystals are hexagonal to pyramidal, showing rounded areas that may result from either growth or dissolution. The crystals range up to 2.5 mm (not to scale). Composite photo by Aurélien Delaunay.

Figure 3. The colors seen in moissanite from the Mount Carmel area of northern Israel range from dark blue to light green. Note the broken or rounded morphology. Composite photo by Aurélien Delaunay.
The crystals we examined were inert under long- and short-wave UV radiation, with the exception of five small green to light green samples. In these five specimens, medium to strong orange luminescence was seen under either long- or short-wave UV. These were found to be magnetic when placed next to a powerful permanent alnico magnet. All of the samples contained small metallic inclusions, the largest approximately 30 microns in size, which could be the source of magnetism. We will continue to follow moissanite exploration in this area, and a more in-depth research paper is forthcoming. @chapter:16 @chapter:1 @chapter:16


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Richard T. Liddicoat (1918–2002)
# Abstract: Richard T. Liddicoat received numerous tributes during his lifetime, including the naming of the tourmaline species liddicoatite. But one honor stands above all: “Father of Modern Gemology.”

After completing his master’s degree in mineralogy at the University of Michigan, Liddicoat joined GIA in 1940 as assistant director of education. His early work on colored stones led to the publication of his Handbook of Gem Identification in 1947. After 12 editions, it remained one of the most respected textbooks in gemology. In 1952, he succeeded Robert Shipley as GIA’s executive director and became editor-in-chief of Gems & Gemology, a position he held for fifty years.

	Richard T. LiddicoatThe Father of Modern Gemology

Liddicoat, who had long sought consistent standards for describing polished diamond quality, was the architect of GIA’s D-to-Z diamond grading system. The system was introduced in 1953, and its popularity in the global diamond industry set the stage for the first GIA Diamond Grading Reports, issued two years later.

Liddicoat coauthored first editions of The Diamond Dictionary (1960) and The Jewelers’ Manual (1964). He also expanded GIA’s educational offerings internationally, starting with a Japanese affiliate in 1971. Upon stepping down as GIA president in 1983, Liddicoat was named chairman of its board of governors, a position he held until his death in 2002. @chapter:34 @chapter:1 @chapter:34


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Azurite Through the Ages: Millennia of Mining Have Not Depleted Its Sources
# Abstract: Azurite, a copper carbonate mineral, is a common secondary mineral. The host is usually a volcanic rock. Collector’s azurite crystals mostly came from Chessy in France (the oldest mine since mid-1800s), Morenci and Bisbee in Arizona, Tsumeb in Namibia, and Touissit in Morocco. The increasing copper price in the first decade of the 21st century lead to reopening of old known copper mines. Well-crystallized azurite specimens have been recently mined in China, Morocco and Mexico.

The quality of well-crystallized samples from a decade-old Milpillas mine in Mexico could be compared to these collector’s samples. Azurite crystals (e.g., the Electric Blue from the Milpillas mine) show dark, blue color with high luster, and they are usually 1–2 inches long prisms or blocky crystals up to 4 inches long. They were gradually pseudomorphed into malachite in high oxidizing environment. Thus, malachite was found more abundant than azurite. Sometimes, thin layer of azurite can be deposited atop malachite as the final layer. The light to dark green, melachite pseudomorphs from the Milpillas mine are mostly blocky crystals, and ranged from one to ten inches in size. The Milpillas mine also produced emerald-green bronchantites, a hydrous copper sulfate, of one-two inches long needle-like crystals on a rhyolite matrix. Free copper ions of bronchantite absorb all wave lengths except green, causing bright green color.

Abstracted by Kyaw Soe Moe @chapter:12 @chapter:0 @chapter:12


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Book Review: Pegmatites and Their Gem Minerals
# Abstract: By Michael Menzies and Jeffrey Scovil, hardcover, $125.00, 616 pp., Canadian Mineralogist Special Publication No. 15, Mineralogical Association of Canada, 2022.

This new publication describes the special igneous rocks classified as pegmatites and the gems and other minerals recovered from them. Pegmatites often occur as dikes, sills, or pods in igneous and metamorphic rocks. Most have a composition similar to granite; they may consist of simple minerals such as quartz, feldspar, and mica or, in addition, a more complex set of minerals containing uncommon elements. They can display either no internal zonation or an internal structure with zones of distinct mineral assemblages. Some contain open cavities or pockets into which high-quality crystals can grow unobstructed by surrounding minerals. Pegmatites are major sources of gem tourmaline, beryl, topaz, spodumene, and garnet, along with a variety of other minerals.
The book represents a valuable reference work that will be indispensable to anyone seeking information on these uncommon rocks that produce spectacular crystals of so many colored gemstones as well as various industrial minerals. It focuses principally on pegmatites of granitic composition, since they have been the most prolific gem producers. It is divided into seven chapters, plus an extensive reference list and two appendices. Contained within are nearly 650 photographs along with well-prepared locality maps and educational line drawings. The photographs include images taken in the field as well as those of world-class mineral and gem specimens. The authors’ goal is to provide a broad description of gem-bearing pegmatites based on fundamental geological concepts, combined with field observations and magnificent photographs, written in a less technical and very readable style. The emphasis is on those localities that have produced gem-quality crystals and aesthetic mineral specimens. It is well organized, clearly written, and attractively laid out.
Following the introduction, Chapter 2 presents a historical summary of pegmatite studies and some of the researchers who have made significant contributions to the scientific understanding of these rocks. Chapter 3 contains a brief discussion of important geological concepts and terminology related to pegmatites. Chapters 4 and 7 introduce the current understanding of the occurrence and formation of pegmatites and of the conditions that allow for the creation of open spaces or pockets. Granitic pegmatites represent the results of the latter stages of magma crystallization. Uncommon elements not incorporated in the formation of earlier minerals can become concentrated in these residual magmas to produce minerals that are otherwise rare or absent in most igneous rocks.
Chapters 5 and 6 represent the most important sections of the book. Chapter 5 presents an extended review of the major gem-producing pegmatite districts and localities throughout the world. Localities described include those in the United States, Afghanistan, Brazil, Canada, Italy (Island of Elba), Madagascar, Myanmar, Namibia, Pakistan, Poland, Russia, Ukraine, and elsewhere. Each section includes a historical background, a summary of the geological setting, and information on the mines and the gem minerals found in each deposit. Chapter 6 provides a similar review of the most important gems and minerals that occur in pegmatites, along with a brief discussion of the causes of color in pegmatite minerals.
Pegmatites and Their Gem Minerals is a comprehensive reference for geoscientists, gemologists and gem dealers, mineral collectors, and anyone interested in the occurrences that have supplied some of the world’s finest mineral and gem crystals, as well as the geological conditions that allowed for the formation of these fascinating igneous rocks. It is a magnificent publication. @chapter:0 @chapter:0 @chapter:0


# Publication Year: 2024
# Title: Lab-Grown diamonds are hot in the United States.
# Abstract: The COVID-19 pandemic has had a significant impact on various aspects of life for consumers globally and Americans in many ways, including dating and marriage decisions. This has led to a slowdown in the engagement ring market in the recent past. However, with the easing of pandemic-related situations, allowing people to resume normal activities, there is an increasing trend among Americans to make marriage decisions this year. Consequently, this has expanded the retail market for diamond jewelry in the United States.

Signet Jewelers Limited, the world's largest retail operator of jewelry and diamond products, headquartered in Akron, Ohio, which is the parent company of well-known jewelry retailers in the United States like "Jared," "Blue Nile," "Diamond Direct," "Kay Jewelers," and "Zales," has disclosed information indicating that the lifestyle factors enabling Americans to engage in outdoor activities normally are contributing to an expansion in the engagement rates among Americans. The engagement rates have increased from approximately 2.1 to 2.2 million couples in the past year to around 2.5 million couples this year. This trend is expected to stimulate the sales of diamond and jewelry products in the United States, particularly in the engagement ring and wedding ring categories, which represent nearly half of the total market value of the jewelry and diamond products in the United States.

Given the economic conditions in the United States, which continue to face fluctuations in several factors, such as the volatile interest rates in the highly adaptive market and ongoing inflation affecting market prices, Americans still exhibit cautious spending behaviors and product choices. This is especially true for luxury goods, coupled with advancements in lab-grown diamond production, leading to lab-grown diamonds being up to 80-90% cheaper than natural diamonds in the market.

According to diamond price statistics in December 2026, a natural diamond of 1 carat size is priced between approximately $2,110 to $6,076, whereas a lab-grown diamond of the same size is priced at only about $441 to $1,018, making it cheaper than natural diamonds by around 83%.

Furthermore, the physical and chemical properties of lab-grown diamonds are almost indistinguishable from natural diamonds. Additionally, lab-grown diamond production can yield diamonds with higher clarity compared to natural diamonds, which often contain impurities. This aligns with the current consumer trend emphasizing environmental conservation and sustainable practices, promoting transparent and ethical business conduct, free from child labor, forced labor, and exploitation, which are closely linked to the diamond mining industry globally.

The factors mentioned above have led American consumers, especially the younger generation who are starting families, to show increased interest in choosing lab-grown diamonds. This has resulted in the expansion of the lab-grown diamond market in the United States. Major retail players in the market, such as JC Penny and Walmart, have shifted towards selling lab-grown diamond products more prominently. Even companies like De Beers, a major player in diamond mining and trading globally, have begun to invest in lab-grown diamond production under the brand "Lightbox" to align with the market trend of lab-grown diamond expansion.

Overall, it is expected that the global lab-grown diamond market will continue to expand, reaching a total value of $55.6 billion by the year 2574 BE (2031 AD), with an average annual growth rate of 9.8% (CAGR).

 suggestions
The diamond is a precious gem that many people dream of owning. Over the past few centuries, there has been a serious diamond mining industry to meet the continuous market demand. However, the majority of natural diamonds in the market are often controlled by a few large diamond traders worldwide, giving them the power to set high prices.

As consumer trends in the market shift towards purchasing more Lab-Grown diamonds, it inevitably reduces the demand for natural diamonds and leads to a corresponding decrease in their market prices. This could potentially make natural diamond jewelry more accessible in the future.

Regarding Thai entrepreneurs, although Thailand doesn't have diamond mines domestically, it does export diamonds to the United States market, mainly by importing diamonds to be crafted into jewelry for export. The craftsmanship quality of Thai workers is well recognized among international retail traders. Therefore, if Thailand can support entrepreneurs in the industry to produce Lab-Grown diamonds as raw materials for the industry, replacing imports from abroad, it could help strengthen the stability of raw material production in Thailand's industry in the future. @chapter:32 @chapter:3 @chapter:32


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Italian Designer Forges Her Own Path in Bangkok
# Abstract: Giuliana Loglisci, GG, left, with a client during a 2017 Lucy G. Jewelry special event in Bangkok, the city where she completed her GIA studies and founded her business. “Bangkok is the perfect place for my company,” she says. Photo by Bharamee Thamrongmas © Giuliana Loglisci

The famous caves of Matera, Italy were carved into limestone thousands of years ago, and in 1899, the ancient city welcomed a high-end jewelry boutique called Gioielleria Loglisci dal 1899 to its streets.
Giulianna “Lucy” Loglisci, GIA GG, grew up in that historic store, which was founded by her father’s side of the family. She was an early jewelry lover and considers it a privilege to have grown up in an idyllic hometown “surrounded by diamonds, gemstones and specialty jewelry” as the family’s chain of stores expanded to multiple cities.

Giuliana Loglisci’s holiday job as a teenager was in sales at the family store, Gioielleria Loglisci dal 1899. The store, founded more than a century ago in the ancient cave city of Matera, Italy, now sells her designs. Photo by Franco Antodaro © Giuliana Loglisci
Loglisci worked at the Matera store as a teenager during the bustling Christmas seasons, but eventually moved to London in to gain additional experience with an Italian jeweler in England. Her parents recommended that she attend GIA, so Loglisci began to take diamond classes at the Institute’s London campus.
“I enrolled in GIA with the purpose of going back to work in my family business,” she says. “But while studying, I realized that if you really want to, you have the opportunity to do much more. That’s when I started dreaming of opening my own company.”
She also began thinking of where that company should be, and decided there was no place better than Bangkok, Thailand – both to finish her Graduate Gemologist diploma at GIA’s campus there, and to launch her own business.
“I was attracted to this new world where I had never been before, and to discover a new culture that was completely different from Europe,” Loglisci says. “Bangkok is known to be the heart of the colored gemstone business, so the idea to study and actually practice what I was learning while there was very appealing.”
Loglisci found that the Bangkok campus’ location offered invaluable practical experience along with her studies.

The new “Fruit Cocktail” collection from Lucy G. Jewelry features rings made in 9kt white gold with diamonds and colored stones including rubies; blue, pink, yellow and orange sapphires; tsavorite garnets; amethysts; Paraíba tourmalines. Photo © Giuliana Loglisci
“One of the best experiences I had was in the Colored Stones course, when GIA organized a trip to Chanthamburi, a ‘crazy’ gem market in Thailand about three hours’ drive from Bangkok,” she says. “We visited a sapphire mine first, then the market. I was shocked at some of the selling methods! Colored gemstones were sold on small, sometimes even broken, tables in the street, or in offices without doors.”
The hard work of earning her GG was no problem for Loglisci, who says each late night of studying was worth it.
“The GIA experience was great for me,” she says. “I met a lot of extraordinary people, and the courses I took gave me a foundation to enter a fascinating and complex business.”
After graduation, Loglisci interviewed with and got with a job working in operations, trade shows, sales and design with a Bangkok-based gem company at BaselWorld in 2015. She worked there for a year and is glad for the experience, but developing her own brand was still the bigger dream.

“Thanks to my GIA diploma, along with the practical experience I gained afterward, I’m able to understand what I am buying,” says Giuliana Loglisci, pictured wearing several of her Lucy G. Jewelry designs. “I have to buy many carats of diamonds and gemstones every day, and because of GIA, I know how to distinguish between them, understand their quality and work properly with the needed tools.” Photo by Mahyar Qajar © Giuliana Loglisci
“I wanted to create something on my own, with my style and creativity,” she says. “I decided to stay in Bangkok, because conditions to open and run a business here are completely different than in Europe. There are more possibilities and it is easier, from the company organization to the manufacturing.”
She launched Lucy G. Jewelry, focusing on pieces made from diamonds and colored stones in 9k gold. Her first collection, I Colori Della Frutta (“The Colors of the Fruits”), is “a bright and refreshing collection” based on the idea of mixing and matching earrings, rings, bracelets and necklaces from the line. Clients can lean into an “easy, fresh” style, or one that’s more sophisticated or even eccentric.
Her jewelry pieces can include rubies; blue, pink, yellow or orange sapphires; amethysts; tsavorites; Paraiba tourmalines; or black and colorless diamonds - or any combination of these gems.
“I want clients to be able to personalize jewelry so it ‘fits’ them,” Loglisci says.

These white gold earrings from Lucy G. Jewelry feature diamonds and orange sapphire center stones. Photo by Arjuna Irsutti © Giuliana Loglisci
Several jewelry stores in nine cities across Italy are already selling Lucy G. Jewelry, including her first client, Gioielleria Loglisci dal 1899. Though her parents were anxious about Loglisci starting her own line – and wanted her to return home – her determination won them over.
“I truly believed in myself and what I was doing, so they accepted that and began selling my products in their shop,” she says. “The more they sold it, the more they liked it. They believed in me and I will be forever thankful, because everything is better when you know you’re not alone.” Loglisci is also grateful for her GIA training as she prepares for further growth.
“GIA gave me excellent knowledge about diamonds and colored stones,” she says. “Thanks to my GIA diploma, along with the practical experience I gained afterward, I’m able to understand what I am buying. I have to buy many carats of diamonds and gemstones every day, and because of GIA, I know how to distinguish between them, understand their quality and work properly with the needed tools.
“I love what I do, and love seeing positive reactions from my clients. I’ve realized my dream, but will never settle – this is just the beginning.” @chapter:20 @chapter:2 @chapter:20


# Publication Year: 2015
# Title: Grandidierite from Madagascar
# Abstract: Figure 1. This grandidierite sample, weighing 8.26 ct and measuring approximately 14 × 11 × 7 mm, was acquired in Madagascar by one of the authors. Photo by Victoria Raynaud.

Grandidierite was first described in southern Madagascar in 1902. The mineral is very rare; gem-quality material of facetable size was almost unheard of in the market before the summer of 2015.

In September 2015, GIA’s Bangkok lab issued identification reports for several faceted grandidierite samples, which reached the consumer market the following month. The submitted stones ranged from 0.9 to 2.3 ct. Around the same time, one of the authors (VP) returned from a field expedition to Madagascar, where he had received some unidentified stones from Jack Mampihao. Included with the material was one unfamiliar rough fragment, weighing 8.26 ct and measuring approximately 14 × 11 × 7 mm (figure 1), which Mr. Mampihao said came from a mine near Tolianaro, in the Tranomaro area at the southern tip of the country. Mr. Mampihao reported that a large number of these stones were found, but they were unknown to local miners and dealers. Currently, we have no information about the exact amount and quality of this material.

Gem-quality grandidierite has been attributed to deposits in southern Madagascar, near Tolianaro (formerly Fort-Dauphin), and in Sri Lanka. With a chemical formula of (Mg, Fe2+)Al3(BO3)(SiO4)O2, the mineral belongs to the orthorhombic crystal system. All anisotropic minerals display pleochroism to varying degrees; grandidierite shows dark blue-green, dark green, and colorless (M. O’Donoghue, Gems: Their Sources, Descriptions and Identification, 6th ed., Butterworth-Heinemann, London, 2006). Its bodycolor ranges from bluish green to greenish blue (A. Thomas, Gemstones: Properties, Identification and Use, New Holland Publishers Ltd., London, 2009). Grandidierite has an RI of 1.590–1.639 (O’Donoghue, 2006) and a birefringence of 0.037–0.039. Its SG is close to 2.98 (O’Donoghue, 2006; Thomas, 2009), but this value may vary between 2.85 and 3.00, according to other sources (H. N. Lazzarelli, Gemstones Identification Blue Chart, 2010, www.gembluechart.com). A previous study has shown an absorption line at 479 nm (K. Schmetzer et al., “The first transparent faceted grandidierite, from Sri Lanka,” Spring 2003 G&G, pp. 32–37). In that study, Raman spectroscopy was carried out on a single gem-quality grandidierite, and the same sample was subjected to composition analysis. The gemological properties of our rough sample were compared with the literature; the results are given in table 1.

The stone was analyzed using LA-ICP-MS (table 2). Three spots were analyzed and compared to data obtained by Schmetzer et al. (2003). The sample had a very low iron content compared to the earlier study. This may be explained by the elevated Mg content, since the two elements often substitute for each other. An exact comparison of the datasets should be done with care, since different techniques were used to analyze the composition. Schmetzer (2003) used electron microprobe analysis (EPMA), while the present authors used LA-ICP-MS. Using a diffraction grating handheld spectroscope, we observed a very faint line in the blue region of the visible spectrum (approximately 470–490 nm). The Raman spectrum matched closely with the RRUFF spectrum for grandidierite (figure 2). Both spectra were taken on unoriented samples.

TABLE 2. Analysis of a previously studied grandidierite and a recent sample from Madagascar (wt.%).

Oxides
			(wt. %)

Grandidierite from
			Schmetzer et al. (2003)a
Recent sample from
			Madagascarb,c

SiO2
20.20

16.41 (0.05)

Al2O3
52.64

53.89 (0.51)

B2O3
11.91

12.33 (0.58)

Cr2O3
0.07

0.01 (0.00)

FeO
1.71

0.30 (0.05)

MnO
0.03

0.01 (0.00)

MgO
12.85

17.01 (0.32)

Total
99.41
99.95

aElectron microprobe analysis (EPMA), with total iron as FeO. TiO2, V2O3, and CaO were detected (each 0.01%) but are not included here.
bLaser ablation–inductively coupled plasma–mass spectrometry (LA-ICP-MS).
cThe standard deviations are listed between parentheses.

Figure 2. This comparison of the Raman spectra of the grandidierite from Madagascar
(blue spectrum) and a sample in the RRUFF database (black spectrum) provides further
confirmation that the previously unidentified material is grandidierite.
All the characteristics of the unknown stone obtained in Madagascar matched with grandidierite. Some values fell outside the previously reported ranges, but they were within acceptable ranges for a mineral that has not been studied in depth and for a sample that is from an unknown deposit. With field collection and lab testing pointing to new sources of grandidierite, this could be a step toward a larger market presence for this material. @chapter:12 @chapter:0 @chapter:12


# Publication Year: 2015
# Title: Two Large CVD-Grown Synthetic Diamonds Tested by GIA
# Abstract: Figure 1. The I-color 3.23 ct round on the left (9.59–9.61 × 5.83 mm) and H-color 2.51 ct round on the right (8.54–8.56 × 5.43 mm) are the largest CVD synthetic diamonds GIA has tested. Photos by Jian Xin (Jae) Liao.

	The quality and size of near-colorless and colorless synthetic diamonds grown by chemical vapor deposition (CVD) have rapidly improved in recent years due to advances in growth techniques and the introduction of post-growth decolorizing treatments. Near-colorless CVD synthetics have now passed the three-carat threshold. In September 2015, a 3.09 ct sample (I color, VS2 clarity) of unknown provenance was submitted to HRD Antwerp. This was preceded by Pure Grown Diamonds’ announcement of a 3.04 ct synthetic (I color, SI1 clarity) in December 2014.

	GIA’s New York laboratory recently tested two large CVD synthetic diamonds (figure 1) submitted for grading services. These synthetics, weighing 2.51 and 3.23 ct, are the largest CVD-grown diamonds GIA has examined to date. The results of the examination underscore the continued improvements in CVD synthetic diamonds.

	The 2.51 and 3.23 ct round brilliants received H and I color grades, respectively. Microscopic examination revealed pinpoint and black inclusions in both, while small fractures along the girdle were only observed in the 2.51 ct round (figure 2). The 3.23 ct synthetic contained a small black inclusion measuring approximately 125 µm. As a result, SI1 and VS2 clarity grades were given to the 2.51 and 3.23 ct samples, respectively. Both revealed irregular stress patterns with high-order interference colors when viewed under cross-polarized light (figure 3), indicating high levels of strain.

Figure 2. Left: These pinpoint inclusions were observed in the 2.51 ct synthetic diamond. Right: A small black inclusion measuring approximately 125 µm was observed in the 3.23 ct sample. Image widths 4.72 mm (left) and 6.27 mm (right). Photomicrographs by Caitlin Dieck.

Figure 3. Irregular stress patterns were observed under the microscope with cross-polarized light. Both the 2.51 ct (left) and 3.23 ct (right) synthetic diamonds showed high-order interference colors. Image widths 5.76 mm and 6.27 mm, respectively. Photomicrographs by Caitlin Dieck.

	The synthetics showed weak orange fluorescence to conventional short-wave UV and were inert to long-wave UV radiation. Exposure to the deep UV radiation ( 230 nm) of the DiamondView revealed an overall strong red-pink fluorescence attributed to nitrogen-vacancy centers with dislocation bundles that fluoresced violet-blue (figure 4), followed by weak greenish blue phosphorescence. Both samples were characterized by a layered growth structure, suggesting that the crystals were grown using a multi-step technique to maximize their volume. The sharp boundaries between the different growth layers are a result of changes in the fluorescent impurity uptake during the starting, stopping, and restarting of growth. These images clearly revealed that at least five growth layers were applied to produce these large crystals. The patterns suggest that the table of the 2.51 ct samples was cut parallel to the growth layers, while the table of the 3.23 ct synthetics was cut at an angle to the growth layers. The dislocation bundles are seen to propagate through the different growth layers. The formation of the two blue bands of highly concentrated dislocations crossing the table of the 2.51 ct specimens is not understood.

Figure 4. DiamondView imaging of both samples revealed strong red-pink fluorescence superimposed with dislocation patterns that fluoresced violet-blue. A layered growth structure indicating start-stop growth was clearly observed on the pavilion of both. The orientation of the layers reveals that the 2.51 ct sample (top) was cut with its table approximately parallel to the growth plane, whereas the layers intersect the table facet in the 3.23 ct sample (bottom). Images by Caitlin Dieck.

	Infrared absorption spectroscopy in the mid-IR range (6000–400 cm–1) showed no major nitrogen-related absorption in the one-phonon region, which classified both samples as type IIa. No hydrogen-related defects were detected, either. UV-Vis-NIR absorption spectra collected at liquid-nitrogen temperature revealed a smooth increase in absorption from the infrared region to the high-energy end of the spectrum, with a 737 nm peak in both samples and a small absorption peak at 596 nm in the 3.23 ct synthetic. The 737 nm peak is an unresolved doublet at 736.6/736.9 nm attributed to [SiV]–. This center is often inadvertently introduced during CVD growth (P. Martineau et al., “Identification of synthetic diamond grown using chemical vapor deposition (CVD),” Spring 2004 G&G, pp. 2–25; W. Wang et al., “CVD synthetic diamonds from Gemesis Corp.,” Summer 2012 G&G, pp. 80–97) but is rarely observed in natural diamonds, especially using absorption methods. The 596 nm feature is particularly useful for identification purposes, as it has only been reported in CVD synthetic material (Martineau et al., 2004).

	Photoluminescence (PL) spectra acquired with 514 nm laser excitation at liquid-nitrogen temperature revealed a doublet at 596/597 nm, nitrogen-vacancy centers at 575 [NV]0 and 637 [NV]– nm, and [SiV]– at 736.6/736.9 nm for both samples, with the [NV]0/– luminescence dominating. The strength of the [NV]0/– centers was consistent with the red-pink fluorescence colors (figure 4). Although the 596/597 nm doublet is not thought to arise from the same center as the 596 nm feature seen in the absorption spectrum of the 3.23 ct sample, it has only been detected in CVD synthetics, thus revealing the samples’ CVD origin (Martineau et al., 2004). The doublet also indicated that the samples had not undergone post-growth HPHT (high-pressure, high-temperature) processing to improve their color, as the treatment would have removed this feature.

	The distribution of [SiV]– centers was investigated through PL mapping of the 736.6/736.9 nm doublet at liquid-nitrogen temperature using 532 nm laser excitation (figure 5). The distribution was different between the two samples, forming patterns that corresponded directly with their DiamondView images (figure 4). For the 2.51 ct sample, the [SiV]– luminescence decreased along the bands with higher concentrations of dislocation bundles. This may indicate that there are fewer [SiV]– centers in this region, or an increased concentration of defects (either structural or impurity-based) that effectively quench the [SiV]– luminescence. Where the growth layers intersect the table in the 3.23 ct sample, the [SiV]– luminescence appeared to be highest at the start of a layer’s growth, decreasing as the growth progressed. This could mean that the concentration of silicon in the growth gas fell over time, or that the concentration of defects that may quench the [SiV]– luminescence increased during growth. Notably, the concentration of dislocations increased as growth progressed.

Figure 5. PL [SiV]- distribution map maps were collected with 532 nm laser excitation. Left: Less luminescence from [SiV]- centers is observed in two broad bands on the 2.51 ct sample. Right: More intense [SiV]- luminescence is found at the diamond layer boundaries in the 3.23 ct sample. Images by Lorne Loudin.

	Analysis of these two large samples demonstrates that high-quality CVD synthetic diamonds can be produced even without post-growth decolorizing HPHT treatment, marking a significant improvement in CVD growth. Using advanced spectroscopic and fluorescence imaging technologies, it is nevertheless possible to detect low concentrations of impurity centers, allowing conclusive determination of these samples’ synthetic origin. GIA is monitoring the development of laboratory-grown diamonds and conducting research to ensure that we can continue identifying every single synthetic diamond. @chapter:9 @chapter:1 @chapter:9


# Publication Year: 2019
# Title: Derek Katzenbach: Faceter, Gem Artist, Custom Jeweler
# Abstract: Figure 1. Katzenbach’s “Colors of Maine” kaleidoscope features 71.74 carats of Maine tourmaline and 66.05 carats of Maine quartz between three lenses. Photo by Brian Moghadam, courtesy of AGTA.
Derek Katzenbach, winner of multiple AGTA Spectrum Awards, was once a marine biology student visiting a local gem show. Until then, the thought of working in a creative industry had never crossed his mind. He spent much of his savings at that show, leaving with a bag full of stones but no idea what to do with them. He decided to take jewelry manufacturing classes and learn more as an apprentice in a jewelry store. The owner convinced Katzenbach to attend GIA, where he completed the Graduate Gemologist and Graduate Jeweler programs. There he honed his skills and learned new techniques.
He also saw a lot of gems, triggering an interest in lapidary and how brilliance and scintillation can influence appearance. A friend taught Katzenbach the basics of faceting, and he kept practicing and experimenting with different patterns. He started working with concave faceting, inspired by the work of Dalan Hargrave and Richard Homer. Eventually he spent a week with them to refine his technique. After graduating from GIA, he went back to work at the same store for five years before starting his own business.
In his experience, gem cutters and metalworkers look at stones very differently. Having a background in both fields gave him a unique advantage in pushing boundaries and experimenting even further.
One of Katzenbach’s most celebrated pieces is a kaleidoscope, shown in figure 1, called “Colors of Maine.” For this he chose Maine tourmaline (the official gem of his home state) and Maine quartz. Most of the gems in the kaleidoscope come from Plumbago Mountain, where about a ton of gem tourmaline was recovered between 1972 and 1974. The green tourmalines are from the Havey mine. Apart from the cutting of melee and very small stones, Katzenbach did most of the work himself.

Figure 2. Katzenbach created this top, which uses 18K gold, sapphire, alexandrite, tourmaline, tsavorite, and other garnets, to resemble a “spinning rainbow.” Photo by Derek Katzenbach.
“Colors of Maine” won first place in the Objects of Art category at the 2017 AGTA Spectrum Awards. Afterward, the piece was bought and donated to GIA, where it is on display at the Carlsbad campus with other Maine tourmalines. Creating the kaleidoscope sparked Katzenbach’s interest in objets d’art. He had always been fascinated by such pieces but found most of them boring and restricted because you cannot touch them. Katzenbach wanted to do something different. This gave him the idea to create a spinning top (figure 2) reminiscent of a rainbow. He used a variety of gemstones—including sapphire, alexandrite, tourmaline, tsavorite, and other garnets—to create this 18K gold toy that no one can resist spinning. The top can be seen in motion at https://www.gia.edu/gems-gemology/spring-2019-gemnews-derek-katzenbach.

Figure 3. This 7.48 ct cuprian tourmaline uses what Katzenbach calls his “fantasy cut.” Photo by Kevin Schumacher.
Katzenbach also creates traditional jewelry. He has always been drawn to a mix of modern pieces with micro-pavé and the lacy textures of Victorian and Edwardian jewelry, but he loves to add color to them. He works mostly with locally sourced Maine minerals, which he finds through miners, collectors, and even museums. Tourmaline (figure 3) is the most common, but he also uses garnet, aquamarine, smoky quartz, and rare minerals. He occasionally sources internationally, but his favorite gems are Oregon sunstone and Montana sapphire.
Katzenbach would like to get back into engraving, something he enjoyed during his time as a gemology student. He feels that many great gemstone and jewelry artists, including carvers, metalsmiths, and gem setters, are embracing each other’s work and actively looking for collaborations. This will inevitably lead to new and exciting jewelry creations in the coming years. @chapter:28 @chapter:2 @chapter:28


# Publication Year: 2001
# Title: Winter 2001 G&G Book Reviews
# Abstract: “Gemstones: Symbols of Beauty and Power”
By Edward Gübelin and Franz-Xaver Erni, with photographic contributions by Erica and Harold Van Pelt, 240 pp., illus., publ. by Geoscience Press, Tucson, AZ, 2000. US$49.95

“The Jeweled Menagerie: The World of Animals in Gems”
By Suzanne Tennenbaum and Janet Zapata, 216 pp., illus., publ. by Thames & Hudson, New York, 2001. US $45.00

“Diamond: A Journey to the Heart of an Obsession”
By Matthew Hart, 276 pp., illus., publ. by Walker & Co., New York, 2001. US$26.00

“Barren Lands: An Epic Search for Diamonds in the North American Arctic.”
By Kevin Krajick, 442 pp., illus., publ. by Times Books (Henry Holt and Co.), New York, 2001. US$26.00

“Pearls: A Natural History”
By Neil H. Landman, Paula M. Mikkelsen, Rudiger Bieler, and Bennet Bronson, 232 pp., illus., publ. by Harry N. Abrams, New York, in association with The American Museum of Natural History and The Field Museum, 2001. US$49.50

“Diamonds: Famous & Fatal”
By Leo P. Kendall, 236 pp., illus., publ. by Barricade Books, Fort Lee, NJ, 2001. US$30.00

“Proceedings of the International Workshop on Material Characterization by Solid State Spectroscopy: Gems and Minerals of Vietnam”
Edited by Wolfgang Hofmeister, Nguyen Quy Dao, and Vu Xuan Quang, 334 pp., illus., publ. by Vien Khoa hoc Vat lieu, Hanoi, US$20.00 [e-mail: quangvx@hn.vnn.vn]

“Shinju no Kagaku [Science of the Pearl]”
By Koji Wada, 339 pp., illus., publ. by Shinju Shinbunsaya (Pearl News Press), Tokyo, 1999 [in Japanese], ¥8,500

“Minding the Store”
By Stanley Marcus, 383 pp., illus., publ. by University of North Texas Press, Denton, TX, paperback edition 2001, US$19.95

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:17 @chapter:0 @chapter:17


# Publication Year: 2016
# Title: Exhibition Review: Spectaculaire Second Empire
# Abstract: Figure 1. Gold bracelet, enamel, natural pearls and citrine, Mellerio dits Meller, ca. 1870. Mellerio collection, Paris. Photo courtesy of Mellerio dits Meller.

France’s Second Empire lasted less than 20 years, from 1851 to 1870, between the Second and Third Republics. Louis Napoléon Bonaparte, the first president of the French Republic, could not seek another mandate. On December 2, 1851, after a military coup, he dismissed the National Assembly, and a year later he named himself Napoleon III, head of France’s Second Empire.  Paris’ Orsay Museum has developed an exhibition, Spectaculaire Second Empire, showing how crucial these years of social disruption and economic euphoria were for France. Often linked to imperial celebrations, this period is typically described as decadent. But it was a time of crisis, when moral and aesthetic habits changed and an old way of life was faced with major technological change, expanded public infrastructure such as railways and inland waterways, and growing industrial activity. The exhibition displays notable relics to reflect the era, including artwork, furniture, and jewelry (figure 1).
During this period many modest craft workshops became factories for luxury goods, including jewelry and objets d’art, as the French imperial family ordered interior design embellishments to enhance homes. Aristide Boucicaut created the first modern department store, Le Bon Marché, in 1852. Sophisticated women changed their dresses and jewels many times a day to avoid wearing the same outfit twice. The dress ball in the northern town of Compiègne became one of the best places to admire the latest creations from jewelers and dress tailors, marking the beginning of high fashion as we know today.

Today only three of the jewelry houses that thrived during the Second Empire continue to produce fine jewelry. Of these three, the museum has chosen to exhibit the work of Mellerio dits Meller, along with pieces by jeweler Alexandre-Gabriel Lemonnier. Napoleon III appointed both Lemmonier and the House of Mellerio crown jewelers; the emperor had become familiar with their talents after they displayed at the Great Exhibition of 1851 in London (also known as the Crystal Palace Exhibition).

Alexandre-Gabriel Lemonnier (1808–1894) was employed by the Bury jewelry shop before opening his own business. Thanks in part to the sponsorship of then-President Bonaparte, Lemonnier opened a more prominent Parisian workshop on Place Vendôme, first at No. 6 and later at No. 25 (a location that is currently occupied by Bulgari) and had clients such as Queen Isabella II of Spain and the Demidoff family of Russia. Among his creations, an impressive diadem with “La Regente” featuring a 337-grain natural pearl now preserved in a private collection. His company closed after the Franco-Prussian War, and he died in 1884. It is exceptional to see pieces he designed on display, particularly the diadem and crown that both belonged to Napoleon III’s wife, Empress Eugénie (figure 2, left and right).

Figure 2. Left: Crown of Empress Eugenie, by Alexandre-Gabriel Lemmonier, 1855. Leather, diamonds, emeralds, and gold. Gift of Mr. and Mrs. Roberto Polo, 1988, inv. OA 11160 © RMN-Grand Palais, Louvre Museum/Pierre and Maurice Chuzeville. Right: Diadem of Empress Eugenie, by Alexandre-Gabriel Lemmonier, 1853. Silver, gold, diamonds, and natural pearls. Gift of the Friends of the Louvre, 1992, inv. OA 11369 © RMN-Grand Palais, Louvre Museum
The Italian Mellerio family first arrived in France in 1515; in 1613 Queen Marie de Medici granted the jewelers the right to trade without the customary administrative restrictions. Prior to the French Revolution of 1789, Marie Antoinette and her friends became regular customers. In 1815, Mellerio became the first jewelry store on the Rue de La Paix. During the Second Empire, the House of Mellerio displayed their creations in many “Expositions Universelles,” highlighting technical and artistic innovations such as flexible gold wires used to give stones an oscillating movement (patented in 1854) and colorful enamels.

Nature is one of Mellerio’s favorite inspirational sources: roses, oak leaf, olive leaf, chestnuts. One example is a gold and silver rose brooch set with diamonds that Princess Mathilde ordered in 1864. Perhaps one of the most impressive pieces is the lilac brooch (figure 3) first displayed during the 1862 Exposition Universelle. Handmade with enameled gold and diamonds, its realistic appearance cannot leave anyone indifferent to its artistic brilliance.

Figure 3. “Broche fleur de lilas,” Mellerio dits Meller, 1862. Green, pink and violet enameled
gold, and diamonds. Private collection. Photo courtesy of Wartski, © Wartski Ltd., London.
Another innovation was transformable jewelry to be worn for different occasions. Mellerio introduced this technique in 1830, and it has been used by jewelers ever since. Tiaras can be transformed into pendants, bracelets, necklaces, or brooches. The exhibition displays a gold diadem composed of eight brooches set with turquoise and diamonds. Mellerio also created flexible snake bracelets to be worn around the wrist or arm. Princess Mathilde ordered many of these pieces symbolizing life and death, force and purity. The enameled gold bracelets set with diamond, emerald, and ruby (figure 4) also introduce another of Mellerio’s favorite inspirations: archaeological discoveries.

Figure 4. Serpent bracelets, Mellerio dits Meller, ca. 1860. Gold, enamel, diamonds,
rubies and emerald., Mellerio collection, Paris. Courtesy of Mellerio dits Meller.
Along with nature- and archaeology-inspired pieces, the house is also familiar with Gothic revival jewelry. Mellerio family members traveled to Rome several times a year in search of the best craftsmen to create cameos or micro-mosaics. Many patterns between 1850 and 1870 were influenced by Egyptian, Greco-Roman, Byzantine, and Paleo-Christian styles. This scarab pendant/brooch shown in figure 5 is set with Burmese rubies from Mogok and natural abalone pearl. The Gothic revival style, seen throughout the 19th century, was especially linked to romanticism, the Middle Ages, and Renaissance rediscovery. A perfect example is the transformable enameled gold bracelet with natural pearls and citrine seen in figure 1.

Figure 5. Scarab brooch/pendant, Mellerio dits Meller, ca. 1865. Silver, pink gold, abalone pearl, diamonds, and Burmese rubies from Mogok. Private collection. Photo courtesy of Mellerio dits Meller.
The most amazing piece in the exhibition may be a transformable peacock feather brooch (figure 6) crafted by Mellerio master jeweler Henri Foullé. Empress Eugénie commissioned this piece after the original, shown at the 1867 Exposition Universelle, was bought by Duchess Medina Coeli. The emerald—Eugénie’s favorite gemstone—can be removed to become a pendant, and the brooch itself is said to protect its wearer.

Figure 6.“Plume de Paon” silver and gold transformable brooch, Mellerio dits Meller,
1868. Diamonds, rubies, sapphires and emeralds. Mellerio collection, Paris. Courtesy
of Mellerio dits Meller.
Spectaculaire Second Empire at the Orsay Museum runs from September 27, 2016, through January 15, 2017. The recommended admission fee is 12€ for adults, and children under 18 are free; admission is free on the first Sunday of the month. The museum is open Tuesday to Sunday from 9:30 a.m. to 6:00 p.m. and Thursdays from 9:30 a.m. to 9:15 p.m. It is closed on Mondays and on Christmas Day. @chapter:20 @chapter:2 @chapter:20


# Publication Year: -
# Title: James Shigley
# Abstract: The Face of GIA Research

For almost 40 years, Dr. James Shigley has been widely recognized as the face of GIA research. Since 1982, he has represented the Institute around the world, lecturing and publishing extensively on topics related to diamonds, colored stones, and gem identification.

After graduating from the University of California, Berkeley, Shigley served on active duty in the U.S. Army from 1971 to 76, eventually retiring from the Army Reserve as a lieutenant colonel. He joined GIA as a senior research scientist after earning a doctorate in geology from Stanford University. He quickly proved his mettle in the laboratory, becoming manager of the research department within three years of his arrival. In 1987, he became GIA’s director of research; today, he serves as the Institute’s first and only distinguished research fellow.

Shigley has been a prolific contributor to gemological research. As of September 2014, he has authored or coauthored 59 articles for Gems & Gemology alone; 29 of those have received the journal’s Most Valuable Article award. He serves as a contributing editor for G&G, and as the editor of the G&G in Review book series. His studies have identified methods of separating natural from synthetic diamonds, documented important gem localities, and established characteristics of HPHT synthetic diamonds. Shigley was instrumental to the creation of the GIA Gem Project, a collection of 2,800 stones (representing 225 minerals) from the Edward J. Gübelin Collection that is available as a free research and identification resource to the trade and the public.

Shigley has mentored countless GIA staff members during his 32-year tenure, passing the torch of practical skills and hard-won experience to the next generation of gemologists. His contributions have earned industry recognition, including AGA’s Antonio Bonnano Award for Excellence in Gemology (2007) and GIA’s Staff of the Year award (2006). Jim Shigley’s work has solidified the Institute’s reputation for groundbreaking research. @chapter:35 @chapter:1 @chapter:35


# Publication Year: -
# Title: De Beers Optimistic for Holidays; Colored Gems Set Auction Records
# Abstract: Laurence Graff paid $15.8 million for this pair of Bulgari earrings that feature a 6.95 ct Fancy Vivid blue pear-shape diamond and a 6.79 ct Fancy Vivid pink pear-shape diamond. They are set with 19.8 cts of colorless diamonds graded by GIA. All photos courtesy Christie’s

                      De Beers remains positive that seasonal demand in the U.S. and China will provide the pull-through that will make it necessary for jewelers in these markets to restock early. In anticipation, the Nov. 3-7 sight was reportedly $560 million – much larger than expected – with prices remaining stable despite the softening rough market.

U.S. jewelry manufacturers and retailers remain cautious and are opting for lower quality diamonds, so De Beers did concede some small discounts on higher color goods – but not for the type that have been popular this year.

Diamond manufacturers, however, are grappling with major challenges that show no signs of easing: diminishing availability of credit; softening polished prices that make De Beers sight purchases a break-even venture at best; and inventories that have been building over the past several years because of production exceeding sales.

The Dec. 8-12 sight is traditionally quite small, but may swell because of clients’ obligation to take sight goods they had refused earlier in the year – about $50 million by some estimates.

De Beers has reportedly committed $100 million to advertise its diamond jewelry brand Forevermark in the U.S. this fall to help spur holiday sales.

AUCTIONS: The one part of the gem market that continues to thrive is the extreme top end of auctions. Both Christie’s and Sotheby’s again turned in record sales – and this season, colored stones garnered most of the buyer action.

Christie’s Nov. 11 Geneva auction set a record for the highest total ever achieved at a single sale ‒ $150 million ‒ and included 10 lots selling for more than $3.5 million each. In addition, more than half the lots exceeded their pre-sale estimates.

One private buyer paid the highest price ever recorded at auction for a sapphire: $17.3 million for the 392.52 carat (ct) Belle of Asia, more than twice its original estimate. The cushion-shaped gem was discovered in Ceylon (now Sri Lanka) in 1926 and is set in a diamond necklace.

	The Blue Belle of Asia, a 392.52 ct Ceylon sapphire, established a new world auction
	record for any sapphire: $17.3 million, more than twice its original estimate.
London jeweler Laurence Graff paid $15.8 million for a pair of Bulgari earrings featuring a 6.95 ct Fancy Vivid blue pear-shape diamond and a 6.79 ct Fancy Vivid pink pear-shape diamond set with 19.8 cts of colorless diamonds. The diamonds were graded by GIA.

An anonymous buyer paid nearly $6 million for an oval-shaped 23.66 ct Burmese ruby ring mounted by Cartier ‒ $254,000 per carat ‒ while a Middle Eastern dealer acquired a natural pearl and diamond necklace, originally owned by Baroness Edouard de Rothschild, for $5.1 million. Another dealer bought a GIA-graded pear-shape D flawless 20.2 ct diamond set in a diamond necklace for $5.65 million.

A diamond brooch, once the property of Empress Eugenie of France, also sold to an anonymous buyer for $2.3 million. The brooch was fashioned in 1855 by Bapst Jewellers and had been the property of the Metropolitan Opera of New York.

Sotheby’s sale two days later brought in $95.3 million, the top lot being an 8.62 ct cushion cut Burmese ruby that just missed being the first colored gemstone to break the $1 million per carat mark. The ruby sold to Graff for $8.62 million, or $997.727 per carat; both the highest total and per-carat price ever paid for a ruby. Graff had owned the stone before, buying it at auction in 2005.

Just before the ruby went under the auction hammer, anonymous buyers paid $5.98 million for a step-cut 27.54 ct Kashmir sapphire and $7.14 million for a pair of GIA-graded Type IIa D flawless diamonds, weighing 20.05 cts and 20.06 cts respectively. Graff also bought a 3.16 Fancy Intense blue diamond for $3.2 million, or just over $1 million per carat.

	Rahul Kadakia, GIA GG, the International Head of Christie’s Jewellery Department, led the Nov. 11 Geneva auction that set a record for the highest total ever achieved at a single sale ‒ $150 million. @chapter:37 @chapter:3 @chapter:37


# Publication Year: 1981
# Title: Cubic Zirconia: An Update
# Abstract: Soon after it was first marketed in 1976, colorless cubic zirconia became the dominant diamond imitation, with current production of approximately 60 million carats per year. Although cubic zirconia was discovered as a natural mineral in 1937, crystals usable for faceting were first produced in 1969 and it was not until a practical skull-melting technique was developed in the USSR in 1972 that commercial production became feasible. This article reviews the skull-melting technique used to produce cubic zirconia and examines the current status of this diamond simulant with regard to quality, production, and market. The patent situation is discussed, as well as prospects for new diamond imitations and the recent surge of interest in colored cubic zirconia. Also included is an Appendix summarizing the technical and gemological data for cubic zirconia and its distinguishing characteristics. @chapter:39 @chapter:1 @chapter:39


# Publication Year: 2021
# Title: GIA Library and Museum Facebook Group
# Abstract: The GIA Library & Museum Facebook page stimulates spirited discussion among gemologists, bibliophiles, and gem enthusiasts. Photo composite by Robert Weldon/GIA.
Dedicated to the beauty and fascination of gemological books and mineral exhibits, the Richard T. Liddicoat Gemological Library & Information Center and the GIA Museum launched a Facebook group on August 2, 2021.
The group has attracted over 600 bibliophiles, museum curators, gemological enthusiasts, students, researchers, and experts worldwide. It aims to provide greater digital access to our library and museum and stimulate enthusiastic discussion of the many themes covered in our collection of books, periodicals, and exhibits (see above). These subjects include gemology, geology, mineralogy, jewelry manufacturing, design, jewelry history, localities, and the gem industry.
Features include library-curated video segments and book reviews, commentary on rare bookplates or covers, and short interviews with notable library patrons. The Facebook group also highlights specific rare books from the library’s digital collection on the Internet Archive (https://archive.org/details/gialibrary). A growing proportion of the library’s notable rare books and manuscripts are digitized and offered to the public—free of charge. Over 700 books have been digitized, and the project is ongoing. The museum provides unique glimpses and the stories behind some of the amazing gems and minerals from GIA’s collection.
To become a member of this group, please visit https://www.facebook.com/groups/gialibraryandmuseum @chapter:23 @chapter:2 @chapter:23


# Publication Year: 1986
# Title: Art Nouveau: Jewels and Jewelers
# Abstract: The Art Nouveau movement, with its startling concepts in design, swept through Europe and the United States in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. The asymmetrical whiplash line which typifies Art Nouveau was manifested in art, architecture, metalwork, textiles, and interior design. Perhaps its most concentrated and refined expression can be seen in the spectacular Art Nouveau jewels, which incorporated more unusual gems and gem materials such as moonstones, horn, ivory, opal, turquoise, and tourmalines into a host of fanciful designs. This article discusses the origins of Art Nouveau and outlines the distinctive interpretations and contributions made by significant Art Nouveau jewelers. @chapter:20 @chapter:2 @chapter:20


# Publication Year: 2023
# Title: Pyritized Triceratops Fossils from South Dakota
# Abstract: Figure 1. Triceratops fossils recovered from the Hell Creek Formation in South Dakota. Photo by SD Gem & Fossil.
In recent years, the Hell Creek Formation spanning the Dakotas, Montana, and Wyoming has been extensively studied by paleontologists. This rock formation is home to fossils of various vertebrates, including dinosaurs such as Tyrannosaurus rex and triceratops. The author, an amateur paleontologist, recently unearthed a new dinosaur fossil site on privately owned land in Perkins County, on the northern edge of South Dakota.

Figure 2. The cut and polished piece of pyritized triceratops fossil on the left weighs 50.5 ct and measures 41.28 × 22.23 mm. The piece on the right weighs 22.5 ct and measures 31.75 × 15.88 mm. Photos by SD Gem & Fossil.
Although multiple creatures are being uncovered at the site, closer examination of these fossils recovered revealed that they were from triceratops (figure 1). In addition, the fossils contained pyrite, an iron sulfide also known as “fool’s gold” that forms in sedimentary rocks, giving the fossils a striking metallic appearance. This discovery of pyrite inspired the author to cut and polish the fossils into pieces for collectors to display (figure 2). Sixteen pieces have been cut so far.
Only water was used for cutting, to avoid dust inhalation and to keep the specimens from turning black. A cerium oxide polishing compound was used for the finish, followed by a drying process. The pieces were then treated with an epoxy adhesive to prevent pyrite decay.
The newfound dinosaur site in the Hell Creek Formation of South Dakota holds the promise of unveiling more treasures from the past. As the author’s team and others dive deeper into the site, they hope to uncover additional fossils, providing insight into the long-lost world of dinosaurs. @chapter:1 @chapter:0 @chapter:1


# Publication Year: 2015
# Title: 34th International Gemmological Conference
# Abstract: The 34th IGC was held in Vilnius, August 26–30. Pre- and post-conference field trips visited Lithuanian cultural heritage sites, as well as the historical amber-producing area along the Baltic seacoast. This event takes place every two years, with the 2017 conference scheduled for Windhoek, Namibia. Several oral and poster presentations of interest are summarized here. Abstracts of all presentations can be viewed on the conference website at www.igc-gemmology.net/igc34-proceedings.

Amber was one of several topics presented at the conference. Albertus Bitinas (Klaipeda University, Lithuania) summarized the geologic setting of amber deposits in the southeast Baltic region. The amber originated from pine trees (Pinus succinifera) that thrived during the Paleogene period (65–23.5 million years ago), when the climate of northern Europe was humid. The subsequent flow of rivers redistributed pieces of amber in sediments in this region. Jonas Satkünas (Lithuanian Geological Survey, Vilnius) recounted efforts to document the country’s amber potential. He reported that 2,250 tons were recovered in the 19th century from the Curronian Lagoon along the Baltic seacoast. A recent survey of the lagoon revealed additional amber deposits with potential for development. Amber from Canada has never been seriously considered as a gem material, but Willow Wight (Canadian Museum of Natural History, Ottawa) discussed its importance for entomologists and botanists who have, over the past century, studied the animal and plant life from the Cretaceous period that became trapped and then preserved in the fossilized tree resin. Lore Kiefert (Gübelin Gem Lab, Lucerne, Switzerland) discussed the occurrence of natural green amber near Alem Ketema, Ethiopia. Green amber has been of gemological interest because of concerns that some material in the market is of natural or treated origin. Amber from the Hukawng Valley in northern Myanmar has been known for a millennium. Tay Thye Sun (Far East Gemmological Laboratory, Singapore) described a new amber locality in the Hti Lin township, in the central part of the country. Characterization of this new material demonstrated that it has many features similar to the Hukawng amber.

Thomas Hainschwang (Gemlab Liechtenstein) investigated 20 naturally colored, polycrystalline black diamonds of unknown origin, and one diamond from the Popigai impact crater in Siberia. The samples exhibited photoluminescence features suggesting micro-inclusions of carbon dioxide and lonsdaleite.

In the realm of synthetic diamonds, Hiroshi Kitawaki (Central Gem Laboratory, Tokyo) examined 15 type Ib yellow to brownish yellow synthetic diamonds that had been submitted for grading without disclosure. Visual features and spectroscopic evidence suggested post-growth high-temperature annealing, presumably to alter their color. The means of identifying both small HPHT and large CVD synthetic diamonds was reviewed by Joe Yuan (Taiwan Gemmological Institute, Taipei). Of particular importance for detection are anomalous birefringence (“strain”) patterns, UV fluorescence reactions, and spectroscopic features.

Gem occurrences along the coast of Greenland were discussed by Anette Juul-Nielsen (Ministry of Natural Resources, Nuuk). Small-scale mining of ruby and pink sapphire from Archean metamorphic rocks is currently underway in the Fiskenæsset area. The Greenland government is issuing licenses for both exploration and extraction of mineral resources.

Kentaro Emori (Central Gem Laboratory, Tokyo) discussed the value of three-dimensional plots of chemical composition data to support the country-of-origin determination of ruby and blue sapphire.

Emilie Elmaleh (University of Geneva) presented a study of zircon inclusions in metamorphic-related blue sapphires of sufficient size ( 150 microns) to allow age dating by the U/Pb method and quantitative chemical analysis. While potentially useful for country-of-origin determination, this method may be of more value for rough corundum samples because both techniques require that the zircon inclusion be present at the surface of the sample for analysis.

Hanco Zwaan (Netherlands Gemmological Laboratory, Leiden) investigated a suite of alluvial sapphires from deposits in Montana. Identification of mineral inclusions and geochemical analysis suggest that these sapphires originated in a metasomatic geologic environment.

Karl Schmetzer (Petershausen, Germany) investigated the origin of dual-color double stars in oriented needle-bearing corundum and quartz. The study concluded that the silvery white star is formed by light reflection and scattering, while the body-colored second star originated by the reflection and scattering of light from a layer near the base of the cabochons. The light producing the second star travels twice the distance down and up through the cabochon, undergoing selective absorption. The color of the second star is identical to the bodycolor of the host material.

Visut Pisutha-Arnond (Gem and Jewelry Institute, Bangkok) presented a heat-treatment study of sapphires to understand the role of beryllium in coloration. The researchers concluded that this trace element is made inactive by heating in a reducing environment, and that beryllium-diffusion treatment is only effective by heating under oxidizing conditions.

Walter Balmer (SSEF Swiss Gemological Institute, Basel) explored the presence of infrared bands at 3053 and 2490 wavenumbers as spectral evidence of beryllium diffusion treatment of sapphires.

Ahmadjan Abduriyim (GIA) investigated how residual pressure was distributed three-dimensionally by measuring such pressure around mineral inclusions in natural corundum from the New England sapphire field in New South Wales, Australia.

Shane McClure (GIA) described emeralds from the Belmont mine in Minas Gerais. The operation is the largest and most technologically advanced emerald mine in Brazil. He also followed a large rough emerald through the manufacturing process to create two cut stones (the largest weighing 18.17 ct) that were set in jewelry.

Gemological properties of pallasitic peridot from six different meteorites were presented by Masaki Furuya (Japan Germany Gemmological Laboratory, Kofu). Samples from the different meteorites could be distinguished from one another by inclusions, visible and infrared spectra, and trace element composition.

Roman Serov (Gemological Center, Lomonosov Moscow State University) investigated the heat treatment of green Russian demantoid garnet. Color changes were reversible and detected at heating temperatures as low as 400°C. Heating under reducing conditions was more effective in removing any brown component of demantoid color.

Andy Shen (China University of Geosciences, Wuhan) investigated nephrite jade samples from eight locations in China, using the linear discriminant analysis of trace element composition data as a criterion for determining their geographic origin.

Mining operations in the three main opal-producing areas of Australia—Lightning Ridge, Queensland, and Coober Pedy—were detailed by Karen Fox (Waterloo, Canada). She also explained the geologic conditions that favor opal formation in sedimentary environments.

Emmanuel Fritsch (University of Nantes, France) studied a yellow gem hyalite opal from Mexico with intense uranium-related, daylight-excited green luminescence. This is one of the few gem materials whose color is dominated by luminescence due to the presence of the uranyl ion.

Three gem minerals exhibiting photochromism, all showing a reversible change of color when exposed to ultraviolet radiation—hackmanite, tugtupite, and sodalite—were investigated by Claudio Milisenda (DSEF German Gem Lab, Idar-Oberstein). Within several hours to a day, the transient color reverted to the original color when the samples were exposed to daylight. @chapter:30 @chapter:0 @chapter:30


# Publication Year: 2020
# Title: Investigations into Corundum and Beryl Color, Jade Artistry, the Chivor Emerald Mine’s History, and Swiss Rhodonite…
# Abstract: Welcome to the Spring Gems & Gemology! Publication was significantly delayed by the COVID-19 pandemic, but we’re very proud to present this issue, which offers a blend of science, art, and history. In our lead article, authors Emily Dubinsky, Jennifer Stone-Sundberg, and John Emmett illuminate the chemistry behind gem corundum’s rich array of colors to reveal the influence of the concentrations of the six identified chromophores found in natural corundum on the depth of color. The authors use quantitative visible absorption spectroscopy and chemical analysis by secondary-ion mass spectrometry (SIMS) to study specially chosen synthetic and natural corundum samples to calculate each chromophore’s absorption cross section. This information is presented as spectra and color-circle arrays, which we hope practicing gemologists will find informative.
“This article provides insight for the practicing gemologist on the influence of six specific chromophores and their concentrations on depth of color in corundum.”
In our second paper, Mingying Wang and Guanghai Shi of the China University of Geosciences (Beijing) present a study of Chinese jade carving artistry ranging from time-honored, traditional techniques to state-of-the-art computer numerical control and 3D replicate engraving. Using data from almost 2,500 contemporary pieces, the authors demonstrate the art’s rich heritage and its continuing innovation.
Next, two more authors from the China University of Geosciences (Wuhan), Yang Hu and Ren Lu, examine the chromophores in blue and yellow beryl using quantitative spectroscopy and trace-element analysis to explore their color-causing characteristics. The authors show that different concentrations of iron ions with various valences and occupancies are most responsible for the gem’s blue to green to yellow colors.
Our following paper offers a change of topic. Karl Schmetzer, Gérard Martayan, and Jose Guillermo Ortiz provide the first of two installments detailing the checkered history of Colombia’s Chivor emerald mine: its abandonment, rediscovery, and intermittent operations by a fascinating cast of characters, including German gem merchant Fritz Klein.
In our final feature article, a team of Italian researchers led by Dr. Franca Caucia offers a study of the chemical, physical, and gemological properties of attractive rhodonite-rich rocks from Switzerland’s Tanatz Alp.
Our regular sections have much to offer, too. In Lab Notes, we describe diamonds with graphitic cavities and corundum inclusions, a clarity-enhanced glass imitating emerald, a large grandidierite, and curious pearls. Micro-World also provides intriguing curiosities, including a diamond with a mobile green diamond inclusion and a pallasitic peridot with iridescent needles. In Diamonds from the Deep, regular contributors Karen Smit and Steve Shirey demonstrate that diamonds are not necessarily forever with an exploration of the dissolution many diamond crystals suffer during transport in kimberlite magma. Our Gem News International section surveys gem materials and events from the 2020 Tucson gem shows, including star peridot, demantoid garnet, emerald, sapphire, trapiche gems, Tucson’s first ethical gem fair, and the results of the 2019 Buccellati jewelry design competition. Please also see the winners of our Dr. Edward J. Gübelin Most Valuable Article Award and this year’s G&G Challenge quiz.
Finally, do make sure you visit our new G&G Facebook group at www.facebook.com/groups/giagemsgemology. Since our February 2020 launch, over 7,000 of you have joined, so if you haven't seen it yet, please check it out. Thank you all for your support and interest! @chapter:46 @chapter:0 @chapter:46


# Publication Year: 2006
# Title: Spring 2006 Gem News International
# Abstract: Tucson 2006
Colored Stones and Organic Materials
            Aquamarine from a New Primary Deposit in Sri Lanka
            Massive Haüyne-Sodalite from Myanmar
            Gem-Quality Massive Pink Muscovite from Brazil
            Pyrope-Spessartine from Tanzania
            Transparent Faceted Sillimanite from India
            Sphene from Pakistan
            New Spinel from Mahenge, Tanzania
Inclusions in Gems
            Cuneiform Aquamarine Inclusion
            "Blood Trail” in Copal
            Colored Fluid Inclusions in Quartz
            "Platinum Quartz” with Star
Conference Reports
            New Madagascar Mining Laws
GNI Regular Features
Diamonds
            Black Diamond with Unusual Growth Structures
Colored Stones and Organic Materials
            Sapphire with Unusual Color Zoning
            Väyrynenite from Pakistan
Synthetics and Simulants
            A Convincing Moonstone Doublet
            A Rutilated Quartz Doublet
            An Unusual Triplet
Miscellaneous
            New CRJP Code of Practices Released
            Update on the Use of Biological Remains in Gem Materials
Announcements
            AGTA Spectrum Awards Competition
Exhibits
            Arctic Jewelry
            King Tut Returns
            Charles Loloma Retrospective

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:1 @chapter:0 @chapter:1


# Publication Year: 2016
# Title: Responsible Mining, a Trek to Chivor, and a Dash of Fabergé
# Abstract: The quest for gem-quality natural diamonds is a multi-billion-dollar enterprise—and a stern test of human ingenuity. Any investment in a large, modern mine is by necessity strategic, and made all the more complex when the location is remote and subarctic. Thus it is with the Diavik mine, which sits on a small island on pristine Lac de Gras in Canada’s Northwest Territories. Replete with engineering challenges, and the need to accommodate the concerns of the area’s indigenous people, Diavik’s transition to an active mine in 2003 is a landmark development in the fascinating story of Canadian diamonds.

	Our lead article, by Jim Shigley, Russ Shor, Pedro Padua, Mike Breeding, Steve Shirey, and Doug Ashbury, offers a review of this mine’s discovery, development, and operations and looks to its planned closure in 2024, when the site will be restored to nearly its original condition. Besides its value as a premier gem diamond source—100 million carats and counting—Diavik is a tantalizing window for geologists into the depths beneath the Canadian Shield. Knowledge acquired from the kimberlites at Diavik allows geoscientists to reconstruct the early history of the North American continent and underscore the supreme value natural diamonds hold for science, beyond their monetary worth as gems.

		A landmark development in the fascinating story of Canadian diamonds.

	In addition to Diavik, we offer articles on a pair of exquisite Fabergé figures, the current state of the colored gem industry’s supply chain in terms of corporate social responsibility, the fashioning of an exceptional Australian opal, and a trek to Colombia’s Chivor emerald mine in the footsteps of its remarkable manager, Peter W. Rainier.

	Our second paper, by Tim Adams and Christel Ludewig McCanless, presents two rare Fabergé hardstone figures depicting the Romanov empresses’ Cossack bodyguards. It discusses the design, construction, and subsequent history of the pieces since their creation using Russian-mined gems and metals in the firm’s St. Petersburg workshop.

	Next, Jennifer-Lynn Archuleta reviews ongoing efforts to establish ethical, sustainable mine-to-market supply chains within the multibillion-dollar colored gem industry. She outlines the challenges the industry faces on its journey to toward greater transparency and traceability in a climate of heightened scrutiny from NGOs, governments, and concerned consumers.

	In our fourth paper, Ted Grussing reveals the special considerations he applied to cutting a 3,019 ct gem-quality white opal from Coober Pedy, Australia. He describes how care and attention to detail maximized size and quality, yielding a 1,040 ct finished gem with play-of-color across its entire surface.

	Finally, join Robert Weldon and his co-authors on a journey through the early twentieth century history of the Chivor emerald mine and revisit the achievements from a productive and colorful era in Colombian emerald mining.

	As always, you’ll also find plenty of interesting content in our latest Lab Notes, Micro-World, and Gem News International sections. And don’t forget to visit www.gia.edu/gems-gemology for exclusive photos and videos from this issue.

	We hope you enjoy our Summer issue! @chapter:34 @chapter:1 @chapter:34


# Publication Year: 2013
# Title: Decades-Old Synthetic Alexandrite Sheds Light on Modern Research Needs
# Abstract: Figure 1. These rough and faceted synthetic alexandrites, grown by Creative Crystals Inc., are shown in daylight (blue-green, top) and incandescent light (bottom). The crystals were grown on seeds parallel to the b pinacoid (1, 2), parallel to the r prism (3, 6) or parallel to the l dipyramid (4); the 13.49 ct faceted synthetic alexandrite measuring 16.6 × 11.8 mm (5) was grown on a seed parallel to the r prism. Photos courtesy of K. Schmetzer, The Journal of Gemmology.

For decades, much attention has been given to provenance studies of natural gemstones (such as emerald, ruby, and sapphire), as knowing their place of origin is significant in valuation. Synthetic colored stones do not command the same price per carat as their natural counterparts, but being able to pinpoint the growth technique and possibly the manufacturer is of value to the jewelry consumer, researcher, or collector. For example, many flux and hydrothermal producers can command a premium for their “luxury synthetics” over more quickly grown flame-fusion or Czochralski crystals.
The synthetic alexandrite produced by Creative Crystals Inc. from 1971 to the early 1980s exhibited true red-green color change (figure 1), and with no production for the last 30 years, these specimens are a rarity. A recent study by Karl Schmetzer, Heinz-Jurgen Bernhardt, and Thomas Hainschwang (“Flux-grown synthetic alexandrites from Creative Crystals Inc.,” The Journal of Gemmology, 2012, Vol. 33, No. 1–4, pp. 49–81) goes into fascinating detail on the company’s history, how the seed crystals were generated, and how the crystals were grown, unlocking the mystery of the distinct growth zoning observed in these particular synthetics.
The authors’ diligence in collecting a highly representative group of samples of this out-of-production material, as well as their thorough review of the available literature, is commendable. Woven into the article are interesting tidbits about the various seed origins and orientations used for growing these alexandrites, which demonstrates how both practical considerations and research-based findings can influence production and ultimately quality. A highlight of the article is the two-page history recounted by David Patterson, a former owner of Creative Crystals.

Figure 2. This microphotograph shows layered growth zoning associated with intense color zoning in a faceted synthetic alexandrite grown by Creative Crystals Inc.; immersion, field of view 5.3 × 4.0 mm. Photo courtesy of K. Schmetzer, The Journal of Gemmology.
To capture the uniqueness of these synthetics, the authors conducted meticulous microscopic studies. Several other techniques—including X-ray fluorescence, electron microprobe, and ultraviolet through infrared absorption spectroscopy—were used to describe corresponding chemical and optical zoning, pleochroism, absorption bands, and inclusions. The authors draw clear correlations between growth parameters and crystal characteristics, such as the impact of seed orientation on morphology. Even more significantly, they link the previously unexplained internal growth bands (figure 2) to multiple growth cycles – the growing crystals were actually removed from the furnace repeatedly to assess their progress. Similarly, I.G. Farben grew synthetic emeralds in the 1930s using multiple growth cycles (Karl Schmetzer and Lore Kiefert, “The colour of Igmerald: I.G. Farbenindustrie flux-grown synthetic emerald,” The Journal of Gemmology, 1998, Vol. 26, No. 3, pp. 145–155). However, Creative Crystals would cool the melt slightly during cycles lasting one week whereas I.G. Farben would keep the melt at a constant temperature during 20-day cycles. Temperature gradients were not used to grow synthetic alexandrite for several more years, according to Dr. Schmetzer. A comparison with commercially produced flux alexandrite from Russia also illustrates how characterization techniques can reveal details of the growth process.
The article is not a light read, 33 pages in length with 46 figures and well over 100 images. But for crystal growers or those simply interested in understanding more about gem synthesis, this article serves as a window into the crystal growth engineering process and reveals how a specimen’s characteristics can shed light on its origin. Other synthetic materials have been similarly studied, and the need for such analyses continues to increase as additional synthetics and more advanced characterization techniques emerge. @chapter:13 @chapter:0 @chapter:13


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Grad’s Entrepreneurial Spirit Knows No Limits
# Abstract: H. “Gio” Giovanni, GG, returned to Carlsbad recently to share his innovative jewelry design techniques and branding practices with students. Photo by Kevin Schumacher/GIA.

“If you follow your dream with passion, it will lead you to the path less followed. The desire to fulfill that dream in the midst of adverse climates will bring innovation. It is at this stage that the true love for entrepreneurship becomes your life dream."

	– H. "Gio" Giovanni, GG, CEO Blacksmith Intl. & Co.

	Finding a passion in life can be a long and circuitous journey for many, but for those like H. “Gio” Giovanni, GG, the challenge is choosing which of his passions to follow. An entrepreneur whose expertise spans gems, jewelry, clothing and custom cars and motorcycles, Giovanni fortunately never had to make a choice. He formed three successful businesses in three entirely different industries before taking his first graduate gemologist class at GIA in Carlsbad in 2007.

	Today, Blacksmith Intl. & Co., Giovanni’s Minden, Nevada-based gem and jewelry design firm, is his number one priority. Yet it’s clear his life also revolves around the innovative motorcycle design, automotive accessory design and clothing businesses he’s also worked hard to build.

	“The common thread across all my ventures is that they’re about lifestyle,” says Giovanni. “They’re about enhancing and reflecting my customers’ lives, whether they want a semi-custom ring or a high-performance, artistic motorcycle.”

Entrepreneurial Self-Starter

	Giovanni, whose family is from Cali, Colombia, fell into the gem and jewelry business out of a desire for custom-made jewelry pieces, but it was next to impossible to find someone to envision his ideas for one-of-a-kind pieces.

	“The greatest challenge was finding a jeweler that would be able to get the large carat sizes that would become my jewelry’s signature,” Giovanni said. His determination pushed him to consider getting involved in the jewelry business, as he thought there were others that must share his love for “large, explosive pieces,” limited by the standards of retail.

	So while earning his master’s degree in business administration at the University of Madison, Wisconsin, he learned from a gentleman in Chicago who ultimately became his business partner.

	“We formed an agreement in which he would teach me about carving, casting and setting, and I would help him with negotiations for diamonds and colored gemstones,” Giovanni said. “I showed him how to get the proper price points. I was also able to acquire custom stones straight from the rough that a lot of others couldn’t get.”

	Giovanni next turned to a friend of the family who introduced him to some emerald dealers in Colombia. He learned that the European marketplace should be his first stop to meet dealers. So with a pocket full of high-grade emeralds given to him on consignment, Giovanni boarded a flight and began his career as a gem importer.

	During his travels as a gem importer, a diamond dealer in Tel Aviv told him all about GIA and Giovanni was immediately intrigued.

	“I liked the sound of a GG and knew it would benefit me and my business to enroll,” Giovanni said.

	To do so, however, Giovanni decided he couldn’t have it all – all of his businesses, that is. He needed to focus all of his energy on the rigorous GG coursework. And when it came time to embark on his GIA education, his next move not only astounded those around him, but also surprised Giovanni himself.

	“I walked away from the other aspects of my business life and isolated myself at GIA’s Carlsbad campus, turning over all management of Blacksmith Motoring Co. – my custom motorcycle business – to my executive staff,” he said. “Throughout the duration of the GG program, I dismissed phone calls and emails and studied seven days a week. I realized it was not the time to have my mind going off in other directions.”

	On campus, he found that the GIA computer-aided design classes were a natural fit for his business, and that his GIA education in general played a big role in helping him advance his success.

	“During the 12 months I was getting my GG, I was not only increasing my knowledge of gemstones, but I was also churning out new designs with CAD, legitimizing my business and making new industry connections,” Giovanni said.

	“I had instructors who encouraged me to push my innovative ideas and they tailored some aspects of the course to help enhance my skill sets. They knew I would bring my company into a new direction in the industry,” Giovanni said.

	Giovanni’s gamble paid off. Not only did the GG program add greater depth and breadth to his gem knowledge, but he came back to his businesses to find they were well taken care of during his absence. Soon after, the entrepreneur said, Blacksmith & Company jumped from being a small, two-man operation to a multi-employee company almost overnight.

	“I built a whole new company while I was building myself and my skills at GIA,” he said. “GIA was able to take what I knew and help me mold it into something new.”

Branding Brilliance

	Fast forward to today and Giovanni’s gem and jewelry business is operating in high gear. The semi-custom men’s lines that his firm produces all follow a carefully crafted look and feel – a distinctive brand design he works closely with his in-house team to maintain.

	Like his custom motorcycle business, Giovanni’s Blacksmith Intl. & Co. offers an online store to serve clients on a global scale. Branding and marketing are also a specialty of his, and he has come out with jewelry lines that are lower in price, featuring metals such as stainless steel and sterling silver, along with more sports-oriented and car-oriented themes.

	Blacksmith Intl. & Co. makes use of platinum, rose gold and some yellow gold, but lately Giovanni has placed a stronger focus on palladium. He says it's relatively lightweight and lends well to bold designs and to creations capable of holding the larger carat – exotic gemstones that have become a trademark of his firm.

	“Our goal is to provide clients with the quality, craftsmanship, metal weight and innovative design they deserve,” he said. “We follow the time-honored tradition and art of crafting metal, and specialize in 950 palladium – the most reflective member of the platinum group.”

	Always eager to share his knowledge, Giovanni recently returned to Carlsbad to present a student lecture covering his innovative jewelry design techniques as well the business practices that have catapulted his ventures.

	The key point that he drove home with students is the importance of protecting your brand. “You can have everything else taken away from you,” he said, “but your brand represents who you are and what you do. I’ll fight for my brand until the end. The Blacksmith name reflects my ability and desire to tailor designs according to my customers’ wishes, whether they want motorcycles, cars or jewelry.”

	Giovanni said he has learned a lot by listening to older people in the jewelry business. Even if they have not been the most successful at their craft, he appreciates the advice they have to offer.

	“They knew what needed to be done in order to make a change or to go forward and people just haven’t listened to it,” he said. If you find these people, “they’ll see something in you and they’ll feed you information that they may have never told anybody else,” he said.

	He sees his role in coming back to talk to students as a way to pay his experience forward.

	“You need to be able to tell individuals what you did, how it worked for you, situations around it and give them examples because one of those examples may click,” he said. “You follow your heart. You do what you think is right.”

	Giovanni's Equator band series for men. Photo provided by Blacksmith Intl. & Co. @chapter:45 @chapter:2 @chapter:45


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Venture into Chanthaburi’s Sapphire Mines and Markets with GIA’s Field Gemologists
# Abstract: A Visit to Chanthaburi, Thailand

	Visit Thailand’s resurgent mines and gem markets with GIA field gemologists.

	This video takes you to a sapphire mine in eastern Thailand and to Chanthaburi’s bustling gem market, with a team led by GIA Field Gemologist Vincent Pardieu.

	Only a few hours from Bangkok, the area provides easy access for collecting reference samples and witnessing the evolution of the area’s mining and trading activity. It’s also an ideal expedition for training and evaluating young gemologists seeking to join GIA’s Field Gemology department.

	In this video, you’ll travel to the Khao Ploy Waen volcano, which is at the center of the sapphire-producing area. Its name literally means “hill of gems.” The volcano is about four miles (6.5 km) west of Chanthaburi, a gem-trading center a little over three-hours’ drive—some 155 miles (250 km)—southeast of Thailand’s capital city, Bangkok.

	Eastern Thailand was the world’s major ruby source between the early 1960s and the 1990s, when political issues in Myanmar (then Burma) shut down supply from that country. This spurred big, mechanized mining operations in eastern Thailand.

	Although the rubies are mostly gone, this area has lately seen a resurgence in sapphire mining, and Khao Ploy Waen still resounds to the rush of water and the clatter of concentrate through alluvial miners’ sluices, jigs, and trommels. The area produces some big dark blue silky stones—which require treatment to be marketable—along with green material and the locally prized yellow color sapphires locally called "Butsarakam". Top-quality yellow, green and blue gems sometimes have excellent transparency but strong dichroism, Pardieu explains.

	Decades at the center of corundum supply helped cement Chanthaburi’s status as a premier gem trading and treatment center. A cosmopolitan place, Chanthaburi blends Chinese, Vietnamese, and French influences. The town also hosts Thailand’s largest Christian church, the Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception.

	The town’s weekend gem market has an international flavor. Every Friday and Saturday, traders from all over the world come to buy and sell rough and cut gems. This is important because local merchants have come to depend on their merchandise. Traders from Guinea, Africa, are especially evident, with their selections of gems from African sources including Mozambique, Tanzania, Nigeria, and Madagascar.  This mix is demonstrated by a Buddha carving fashioned from African ruby that, Pardieu explains, required heating with borax to close fractures before it could be fashioned: Truly a blend of local treatment and fashioning knowhow with raw material sourced a continent away.

	Chanthaburi’s market would be much less active without this influx of traders and their stones. Indeed, in one ironic twist, a trader from Kabul, Afghanistan, was seen purchasing Nigerian rhodolite garnet, treated ruby, and synthetic gems for sale to US servicemen in military bases like Bagram and Kabul.

	This GIA Field Expedition (FE53) took place in June 2014. Besides Pardieu, the participants were cameramen Didier Gruel and Philippe Brunot, and expedition members Victoria Raynaud, Stanislas Detroyat, and Marie Daufresne. @chapter:40 @chapter:0 @chapter:40


# Publication Year: 2006
# Title: Summer 2006 G&G Lab Notes
# Abstract: Bone Pendant
	Diamond with Circular Brown or Green Radiation Stains
	Diamond with Clarity Affected by Intense Graining
	Coated Pink Diamonds
	Diamond with Unusual Etch Channel
	Diamond with Sapphire Inclusions
	Imitation Melo “Pearls”
	Moonstone Imitations

To view the full section, download the PDF above.

	DATA DEPOSITORY

Additional Figures
	Submitted by Paul Johnson
	June 16, 2006 @chapter:43 @chapter:1 @chapter:43