# Publication Year: 2024
# Title: The jewelry industry's use of recycled resources
# Abstract: Pandora, the world's largest jewelry retailer known for selling bracelets and silver charms, has sold more than 100 million pieces of jewelry per year. The Danish company has factories in Thailand and employs over 12,200 craftsmen in Thailand. Pandora has announced that it exclusively uses recycled metals, including silver and gold, without using newly mined minerals.

Pandora's initiatives mark significant steps for a large company in reducing its environmental footprint, which is a measure indicating how much burden the production process imposes on the environment. Alexander Lacik, Pandora's CEO, stated in an interview that the company aims to lead in using recycled metals as an example for the market. If Pandora can create change by using recycled silver and gold in jewelry production, it means that others can follow suit.

Pandora refrains from mining new metal ores but utilizes metals that have already been mined, significantly reducing greenhouse gas emissions. Mining requires more energy and resources compared to recycling and contributes to pollution from substances like cyanide. According to the World Gold Council, recycling gold reduces greenhouse gas emissions by over 99% compared to mining new gold, while silver recycling reduces carbon emissions by over 66% compared to mining new silver.

Other brands like Prada and Monica Vinader have also started using recycled metals. However, industry observers have warned that recycled metals may create an image of reducing environmental impact more than it actually does. This is because each person interprets the term "recycled" differently, similar to how "sustainability" can have varying meanings.

Ms. Tiffany Stevens, CEO of the Jewelers Vigilance Committee based in New York City, which specializes in ethics and public policy advocacy in the jewelry industry, stated that the term "recycled" generally carries a positive connotation, making jewelry made from recycled materials appear environmentally friendly. However, interpreting the meaning of "recycled" remains problematic, especially when the source of recycled metals is not specified. This is one reason why Ms. Stevens has requested the Federal Trade Commission to prohibit the use of the term "recycled" for jewelry sold in the United States. She expects the Federal Trade Commission to announce environmental marketing guidelines within the year 2023.

Currently, this policy dictates that using the term "recycled" without using or transforming materials from waste is considered deceptive. Generally, metals are not considered waste because when melted down, they can be reused for many centuries while retaining their original value. Additionally, "recycled" does not prompt consumers to consider the source of metals as they should, as some metals may come from mines supporting child labor or criminal networks. Mr. Patrick Schein, owner of a mining company and committee member of the Alliance For Responsible Mining, an organization advocating environmentally sustainable mining, stated that the term "recycled" has turned metals sourced from unethical practices into seemingly ethically transformed new metals.

While the Alliance For Responsible Mining has been supporting the development of responsible supply chains in the jewelry and gemstone industry through working with small-scale mines to increase environmentally responsible mining practices, their 2023 report and partners have pointed out that recycled gold has created precarious situations for workers. For example, there are issues with obtaining official mining permits and working in remote locations.

Mr. Lacik stated that while Pandora has shifted to using recycled metals to reduce environmental impact, there is a need to decide whether climate issues are more or less significant than social issues for any group. For Pandora, addressing climate issues is a paramount concern for humanity in the long term.

Despite Pandora's shift to using recycled metals to reduce environmental impact, statistical data shows that gold and silver mining has not slowed down in the past decade. Therefore, the adoption of recycled metals by various companies may only marginally reduce environmental impact.

More than 100 employees of Pandora have been involved in the shift to using recycled metals. In 2024, they transitioned from mining to cultivating lab-grown diamonds. This change in metal sourcing has led the Responsible Jewellery Council, a global leader in setting standards for jewelry and gemstone production based in London, to adjust their processes and tools for measuring diamond standards.

MKS PAMP, a Swiss trading and mining company and a partner of Pandora, mentioned that they can trace the origin of every gram of recycled metal to its owner. Xavier Miserez, the head of sales, commented that the company avoids using recycled metals from sources that do not treat their employees ethically.

Pandora plans to invest over 10 million US dollars per year in transitioning to recycled metals instead of newly mined metals. The company is prepared to bear these costs. However, Lacik believes that factors influencing consumer purchases are design, price, and some groups may prioritize sustainable production, although they may not be the majority.

Besides the design and pricing of jewelry and pearls being the main factors in consumer decision-making, environmental awareness is also growing. The world's largest pearl producers have started using recycled metals in pearl production instead of mining new ones from underground, aiming to reduce environmental footprints and address climate change issues. Therefore, Thai entrepreneurs and exporters may study and improve the jewelry and pearl production supply chain with a greater focus on the environment, while keeping up with the updates in environmental marketing practices (Green Guides) by the Federal Trade Commission, to align marketing strategies in the United States with the guidelines set by the FTC @chapter:42 @chapter:3 @chapter:42


# Publication Year: 2019
# Title: Ponderosa Sunstone Update
# Abstract: Two Oregon sunstones weighing 7.07 and 2.48 ct. The stone on the right, faceted by Larry Woods, has a very rare deep red color. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA, courtesy of John Woodmark, Desert Sun Mining.

John Woodmark, president of Desert Sun Mining and Gems (Depoe Bay, Oregon), updated us on the Ponderosa mine, which he calls the most productive source of Oregon sunstone (see above). Demand has increased annually over their 17 years of production, he said. With the larger excavator and high-capacity screen they brought on in 2015, they now mine about 4,300 kg (4.8 tons) of sunstone rough per year, up from about 2,000 kg (2.2 tons) in 2014. About 3% of this material is facet grade. Ponderosa now produces 4,000 to 5,000 cubic yards of concentrate in seven days—more than enough to process in one season (which only lasts five or six months due to snow at the high elevation). Desert Sun was once limited to mining at about 50 feet deep, but the excavator has allowed them to go a few hundred feet deep into the source. Woodmark said the sunstones at that depth are larger and less fractured, and there are some excellent red stones of good size.
Woodmark said demand is especially strong from American and European customers age 45 and under because they want natural, untreated gemstones such as sunstone, opal, and jade. They also love Oregon sunstone’s schiller effect, a sparkle caused by reflective copper platelets that makes the stone “different from what their friends have.” Desert Sun will be using social media this year for the first time to reach customers looking for unique gemstones.
Jewelers are excited about Oregon sunstone because of the potential high markup, according to Woodmark. He noted that sunstone isn’t competing with diamond, ruby, sapphire, and emerald, for which a jeweler might see a 10% or 15% profit margin. Oregon sunstone can yield a triple or quadruple markup, yet it is still relatively affordable: Woodmark said the yellow sunstones sell for about $30 per carat while the reds can go for $300 to $4,000 per carat. Sunstone’s affordability, profit margin, and appeal to young consumers make it attractive to jewelers.

	John Woodmark updates us on the Ponderosa mine and the sunstone market.

Woodmark said the jewelry industry’s demand for calibrated sunstones continues to grow, and Desert Sun now receives significant orders from large companies. A typical order might be a thousand 5 mm rounds of orange sunstone. Every color sells well, he told us, but it is difficult to get a specific band of color in natural, untreated gemstones, so they are trying to grade more consistently. Desert Sun has seven colors, each graded with and without schiller, so overall there are 14. He tries to educate jewelers, manufacturers, and designers on the fact that color in natural stones is more variable—and that many have unique color—to encourage them to use more than one color in their pieces.
Woodmark sees a bright future for Oregon sunstone as more consumers become aware of it. He acknowledged that there will come a time when he and Bruce Moore, Desert Sun’s executive vice president, will have to step away from the deposit. “We’re barely scratching the surface of what people could do with this mine,” he said. Desert Sun only exhibits at the AGTA show in Tucson, but Woodmark said if someone were to take over the mine, they could do 10 shows a year across the United States. At that point, he said, sunstone would “take off.”

	Sonja Kreis describes an Oregon sunstone and gold nugget piece by Kreis Jewellery. @chapter:21 @chapter:0 @chapter:21


# Publication Year: 2010
# Title: X-ray Computed Microtomography: Distinguishing Natural Pearls from Beaded and Non-Beaded Cultured Pearls
# Abstract: The distinction of natural from cultured pearls traditionally has been based on X-radiography. X-ray computed microtomography (μ-CT) has recently been applied to gain more insight into pearl structures. Using this technique, this article presents features observed in a selection of natural pearls and beaded and non-beaded cultured pearls. Based on these observations, μ-CT is shown to be a powerful tool for pearl identification.

	DATA DEPOSITORY

	Supplementary Videos (see below)
	Summer, 2010

	Figures 1a and 1bTwo Natural Pearls

	Two natural pearls, samples mxt 3 (freshwater; a) and mxt9 (saltwater; b); for details and explanation, see table 1 and figure 3.

	Figure 2A Beaded Cultured Pearl

	A beaded cultured pearl, sample mxt 14b (saltwater); for details and explanation, see table 1 and figure 4.

	Figures 3a, 3b and 3cTwo Non-beaded Cultured Pearls

	Two non-beaded cultured pearls, samples mxt 1 (freshwater; a) and mxt 61_14 (saltwater; b). Also included is a short movie showing the rendered model of the cavity structure (“moustache”) in the center of sample mxt 1 (c); for details and explanation, see table 1 and figures 5 and 6.

	Figure 4A Non-beaded Cultured Pearl

	A non-beaded cultured pearl with a complex structure, sample mxt 21_1 (saltwater); for details and explanation, see table 1 and figure 8. @chapter:11 @chapter:4 @chapter:11


# Publication Year: 2023
# Title: Ruby with Interesting Synthetic Overgrowth
# Abstract: A large cavity partially filled with synthetic overgrowth on the pavilion of a heated Burmese ruby in darkfield lighting (left) and reflected lighting (right). Photomicrographs by Nicole Ahline; field of view 7.19 mm.
The Carlsbad laboratory received a 3.02 ct ruby for a colored stone identification and origin report. Standard gemological testing was consistent with ruby: a hydrostatic specific gravity of 3.96 and a ruby spectrum in a handheld spectroscope. Internally, the stone displayed white flakes in a hexagonal formation and roiled graining. Partially healed fissures with residue, which result from heating in the presence of a flux, were also documented. The inclusion scene, along with the stone’s trace element chemistry collected using laser ablation–inductively coupled plasma–mass spectrometry (LA-ICP-MS), were consistent with Burmese ruby. This ruby was not treated by beryllium diffusion, as no beryllium was detected by LA-ICP-MS. The curious feature of this stone was a large cavity on the pavilion that was partially filled with synthetic overgrowth that was observed in the microscope (see above).
Synthetic overgrowth can be a byproduct of heating a piece of corundum at high temperatures, with or without the presence of a flux. This creates an environment in the crucible that allows for the partial dissolution of corundum and can result in synthetic corundum overgrowth on the surface and in cavities of the heated stone. Synthetic overgrowth is typically an aggregated structure of hexagonally shaped, platy crystals (Fall 2002 G&G Lab Notes, pp. 255–256). When viewed in reflective lighting, there is no luster difference between the host corundum and the synthetic overgrowth, as the two materials have the same refractive index. The gaps that could be observed between the crystals in this stone showed how they grew in different orientations.
Synthetic overgrowth is common enough that it should always be looked for in corundum that has undergone high-temperature heat treatment. There are cases where synthetic overgrowth can be observed using polarized light, but careful analysis is required because the overgrowth can completely fill cavities and be inconspicuous. @chapter:24 @chapter:0 @chapter:24


# Publication Year: 1983
# Title: A Computer Program for Gem Identification
# Abstract: Following a feasibility study of computer-aided gem testing, which resulted in a student-level gem identification program, the author has developed a professional version containing data on over 200 gem materials and gem simulants. The program sections include Gem Identification (using test inputs for R.1, values, optic sign, S.G., etc.), Gem Data Tables (arranged in alphabetical, R.I., and S.G. order), Gem Data Comparisons, Gem Data Pages, and Gem Calculations (for determinations of S.G., reflectivity, critical angle, and Brewster angle). This type of computer program provides rapid access to gem constants and characteristics, and can assist the less experienced gemologist by identifying unfamiliar or rare stones and indicating the various alternatives. @chapter:16 @chapter:0 @chapter:16


# Publication Year: 2022
# Title: Fall 2022 Auction Highlights
# Abstract: Figure 1. The 11.15 ct Williamson Pink Star is set in an 18K pink and white gold ring, along with 1.41 carats of trapeze-cut diamonds and 0.14 carats of brilliant-cut pink diamonds. Courtesy of Sotheby’s.
The astounding results of colored diamond sales in the spring auction season (Summer 2022 GNI, pp. 260–263) left expectations high for fall. Pink diamonds set the scene for the beginning of the season, starting with a bang at a Sotheby’s stand-alone sale in Hong Kong in October. Selling for $57.7 million, almost three times its estimate, the 11.15 ct Williamson Pink Star (figure 1) became the second most valuable jewel ever sold at auction. After 20 minutes and 50 bids, the GIA-graded natural Fancy Vivid pink internally flawless cushion-shaped diamond broke the record price per carat for any diamond or gemstone sold at auction, at $5.2 million a carat.

Figure 2. The 18.18 ct Fortune Pink sold in Geneva for $28.9 million. Courtesy of Christie’s.
The colored diamond trend headed downward the following month with the Fortune Pink (figure 2) at Christie’s Magnificent Jewels sale in Geneva, selling below expectations at the lower end of its estimate. Fetching $28.9 million, the GIA-graded 18.18 ct stone is the largest pear-shaped Fancy Vivid pink diamond ever sold at auction.

Figure 3. Surrounded by pink diamonds, this 31.62 ct Fancy blue diamond pendant sold within its estimate at $11.8 million. Courtesy of Christie’s.
Another pink diamond, a 13.15 ct emerald cut, was slated to lead Christie’s December Magnificent Jewels sale in New York before it was withdrawn weeks before the auction and later revealed as alleged stolen property. A 31.62 ct Fancy blue diamond pendant (figure 3) was then placed as the top lot of the auction. The GIA-graded pear modified brilliant cut, noted by Christie’s as the largest of its kind to appear at auction, garnered $11.8 million, toward the lower end of the estimate. Three other blue diamonds offered by Sotheby’s from the De Beers Exceptional Blue collection drew lackluster results throughout the season. Two were left unsold, and one was withdrawn prior to auction.

Figure 4. The 303.10 ct Golden Canary, recently recut from the Incomparable, became the third most valuable diamond sold at auction. Courtesy of Sotheby’s.
In an unexpected conclusion to the season, the Golden Canary (figure 4) sold below its estimate at $12 million. Without a reserve, Sotheby’s anticipated the 303.10 ct pear-shaped Fancy Deep brownish yellow diamond to secure more than $15 million in the New York auction. Still, the diamond became the third most valuable diamond ever sold at auction, Sotheby’s noted. As the largest flawless or internally flawless and largest pear-shaped diamond graded by GIA to date, the Golden Canary can be traced back to a young girl’s discovery of an 890 ct rough near her uncle’s house in the Democratic Republic of the Congo in the early 1980s. The 407.48 ct Incomparable, the largest of the 15 finished stones from the rough diamond, was recently transformed into the Golden Canary to improve its color and shape.
The real surprise of Sotheby’s New York auction—and perhaps the season—was the sale of a ring featuring a 6.25 ct emerald recovered from the legendary 1622 shipwreck of the Nuestra Señora de Atocha. The ring sold in just five minutes for $1.2 million, more than 17 times its estimate. All proceeds were donated to humanitarian efforts in Ukraine. @chapter:37 @chapter:3 @chapter:37


# Publication Year: 2019
# Title: Quarterly Crystal: “Ball Bearing” in Quartz
# Abstract: Figure 1. This doubly terminated scepter quartz crystal from Sichuan, China, weighs 200.28 ct and measures 75.03 mm in length. Photo by Diego Sanchez.
Quartz crystals with three-phase fluid inclusions from the Jinkouhe mine in the Sichuan Province of China have been sold for many years at gem and mineral shows such as those held annually in Tucson, Arizona. Unfortunately, many of those crystals are damaged due to the mining methods used and the packing together of numerous crystals for transport. Good terminations on those crystals are few and far between, and the edges are generally chipped, while the broad flat crystal faces are often scratched and abraded.
So it was with high interest that we examined the relatively large doubly terminated scepter rock crystal quartz shown in figure 1. At 200.28 ct and measuring 75.03 × 21.76 × 17.98, this crystal was much larger than most others from the Jinkouhe mine. It was preserved in its own cotton-lined box, and as shown in figure 1, essentially undamaged.

Figure 2. Nomarski differential interference contrast revealed light etching on the prism faces of the quartz crystal. Photomicrograph by Nathan Renfro; field of view 0.72 mm.

Figure 3. In this image, the silver-gray bubble can be seen at the right side of the liquid-filled void. The coating gives it the appearance of a small ball bearing. Photomicrograph by Nathan Renfro; field of view 7.42 mm.

Figure 4. The metallic-looking bubble has floated toward the left end of the fluid inclusion chamber. Photomicrograph by Nathan Renfro; field of view 7.42 mm.
Microscopic examination of the crystal revealed light etching on the prism faces (figure 2), which was highlighted using Nomarski differential interference contrast. Internally there were several primary fluid inclusions, with typical black organic compounds as the solid phase. One fluid inclusion in particular contained a gas bubble (figure 3) that moved freely across the entire length of the void (figure 4). The bubble was coated with a metallic-looking substance that gave it the appearance of a small stainless steel ball bearing. We could not identify the coating but suspect that it was an organic compound. @chapter:26 @chapter:0 @chapter:26


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Ruby Journey
# Abstract: Few people outside the gem industry realize the true nature of a gemstone’s journey from the mine to the counter of a store. Whether the gem is being offered to consumer’s at a traditional jewelry store’s counter, an internet shopping site, or a television broadcast the journey always involves a great deal of effort.  Tons of earth and countless hours of labor are needed to being a gem from mine to market. @chapter:38 @chapter:3 @chapter:38


# Publication Year: 1989
# Title: Beryl Gem Nodules from the Bananal Mine, Minas Gerais, Brazil
# Abstract: Bicolored (aquamarine-morganite) beryl from a 1986 discovery at the Bananal mine is described. Most of the cutting material was of carving grade, but a small percentage of the crystals contained faceting-quality morganite gem nodules. This is the first published report of gem nodules of a species outside the tourmaline group. Much of the Bananal morganite is of a pleasing orange to pink-orange color that changes to pink on extended exposure to heat or sunlight. The inclusions in the nodules appear to be limited to muscovite crystals, while the rest of the material (both aquamarine and morganite) contains two- and three-phase inclusions, but little or no muscovite. The cause of the gem nodules is not established, but it may relate to the presence of the same type of variation in mosaic texture observed in some color-zoned tourmaline crystals. @chapter:14 @chapter:0 @chapter:14


# Publication Year: 1982
# Title: The Natural Formation and Occurrence of Green Quartz
# Abstract: Amethyst may develop into the more common citrine and rarer green quartz naturally under certain geologic conditions. On the California-Nevada border, just north of Reno, amethyst, citrine, and green quartz do occur together in clusters of crystals in detritus. These crystals, found lying loose in rocky and sandy rubble, appear to have eroded from cavities and vesicles in the inaccessible cliffs above. The quartz was deposited in these spaces by the slow accumulation of silica from migrating solutions. Low-grade radiation over a geologic time span was responsible for the alteration of the ferric and ferrous quartz into its amethystine color. Secondary, high-temperature, extruding volcanic bodies are believed to be responsible for the subsequent color change to citrine or green quartz. @chapter:3 @chapter:0 @chapter:3


# Publication Year: 1987
# Title: The Occurrence and Gemological Properties of Wessels Mine Sugilite
# Abstract: Examination of jewelry-quality sugilite shows that it consists of manganese-bearing sugilite and other minerals in a polycrystalline aggregate. The material occurs in a large stratiform manganese orebody at the Wessels mine near Kuruman, South Africa. Some 12 to 15 tons of sugilite of varying quality are estimated to occur at the mine. The attractive purple color is due to the presence of about 1-3 wt. % manganese oxide. The research reported here revealed that there are actually two types of gem materials that have heretofore been called sugilite: one that is predominantly manganoan sugilite with minor impurity minerals, and the other that is chalcedony mixed with (and colored by) sugilite. @chapter:1 @chapter:0 @chapter:1


# Publication Year: 2020
# Title: Clarity-Enhanced Glass Imitating Emerald
# Abstract: Figure 1. Round gas bubbles in host material and flat gas bubbles within the break of fractures. Photomicrograph by Michaela Stephan; field of view 1.99 mm.

The Carlsbad lab received a transparent green octagonal step cut for identification. This stone visually resembled emerald due to its rich green color and large fractures. However, its single refractive index of 1.510 was not consistent with emerald’s double refractive index of 1.577 to 1.583.
Examination with a standard gemological microscope revealed no natural inclusions. Instead, it showed rounded gas bubbles in the body as well as flattened gas bubbles in surface-reaching fractures (figure 1). This stone has also been examined with FTIR and long-wave UV. When observed with long-wave UV, the fractures emitted a weak white fluorescence while the body of the stone showed a very weak blue fluorescence. The presence of these features was enough to conclude it had been clarity enhanced.

Figure 2. Shown are the infrared spectrum for the octagonal step cut (red line) and the typical reference spectrum for manufactured glass (dotted black line). The spectra have been offset for clarity.
Additionally, rounded gas bubbles separate from fractures, an RI of 1.51, and the sample’s FTIR spectrum (figure 2) were consistent with manufactured glass.
These gemological properties and observations identified the material as clarity-enhanced manufactured glass. Due to emerald’s high value, it is common for imitations to show up in the market. Items such as this demonstrate the need to always be cautious when purchasing gemstones. @chapter:19 @chapter:0 @chapter:19


# Publication Year: 2020
# Title: Bicolor Synthetic Sapphire
# Abstract: Figure 1. Split boules of bicolor synthetic sapphire grown by flame fusion. Photo by Jennifer Stone-Sundberg; courtesy of RusGems.
At the JOGS show, a wide selection of synthetic gem materials was offered by the Bangkok office of RusGems, a synthetic crystal growth company out of Russia. Olga Tanskaia showed us their extensive color range of synthetic sapphire, spinel, beryl, garnet, and other lab-grown crystals produced using a variety of crystal growth methods. She noted that blue and red synthetic gems are always their best sellers.

Figure 2. Left: Bicolor 14.83 ct synthetic sapphire showing popular teal blue and purple colors. Photo by Kevin Schumacher; courtesy of RusGems. Right: Wisps of presumably CoAl2O4 at the boundary of the teal and purple colors in the crystal. Photomicrograph by Nathan Renfro; field of view 7.05 mm.
As we found with natural sapphire this year, bicolor synthetic sapphire, both rough and cut, was also available and popular (figure 1). This material is grown by flame fusion, and the chromophore component of the powder composition is altered during the growth process at the desired length. Many different color combinations were available, including some with the popular teal blue and purple hues (figure 2, left). The inspiration for applying this method of color zoning to these flame-fusion grown crystals came from historical work on synthetic ruby laser rods where colorless (or “undoped”) regions were desired for the ends of the rods (figure 3). A process to grow a single crystal having pure aluminum oxide for a certain length, then adding the desired level of chromium to the growth for the laser rod portion of the length, and then returning to pure aluminum oxide was developed to achieve this.

Figure 3. Synthetic ruby rod grown by the flame-fusion technique showing chromium-free ends. Photo by Jennifer Stone-Sundberg; courtesy of RusGems.
We took the step-cut bicolor synthetic sapphire in figure 51 back to the GIA lab to determine the trace element chemistry responsible for generating the teal and purple hues. Using laser ablation–inductively coupled plasma–mass spectrometry (LA-ICP-MS), we found that the teal end contained no Be, Mg, Ti, V, Mn, Fe, or Ni but did contain small amounts of Cr and Ga (approximately 4 ppma and 0.5 ppma, respectively) and a substantial amount of Co (approximately 140 ppma). The purple end similarly contained no Be, Mg, V, Mn, Fe, or Ni but did contain small amounts of Ti (0.6 ppma) and Ga (0.4 ppma), with substantial amounts of Co (120 ppma), and Cr (470 ppma). Cobalt is giving this crystal the greenish blue component of its color, and chromium is modifying the hue to purple. We used UV-Vis spectroscopy to detect absorption peaks that could be used with the trace element chemistry to explain the two differently colored regions. We identified chromium peaks at approximately 400 and 560 nm responsible for the red color component in the purple half. We also identified an additional peak in the purple half at around 640 nm, likely due to Co3+. In the teal half, we did not find the Cr3+ peaks but did identify Co3+ peaks at 640 nm and at around 440 nm, and a peak around 600 nm due to Co2+ (K. Schmetzer and A. Peretti, “Characterization of a group of experimental Russian hydrothermal synthetic sapphires,” Journal of Gemmology, Vol. 27, No. 1, 2000, pp. 1–7).
In inspecting the inclusions at the boundary between the two differently colored portions, we discovered bright blue wisps of what we believe to be CoAl2O4 (figure 2, right), a spinel-structure material referred to as “cobalt blue” that is used to impart a blue color to glass, ceramics, and plastics.
The ability to generate just about any hue in sapphire, including color zoning, was readily apparent when looking through the offerings of RusGems. It was fascinating to see evidence of the direct influence of the high-tech laser industry on these synthetic gems. @chapter:19 @chapter:1 @chapter:19


# Publication Year: -
# Title: GIA Field Gemologists Seek Ruby in Mogok, Myanmar
# Abstract: Searching for Ruby in Mogok

	Join GIA field gemologists in a search for ruby in Mogok, Myanmar.

	Venture into Myanmar’s Mogok mining area and its bustling gem markets with GIA Field Gemologists Vincent Pardieu and Andy Lucas, who traveled to this legendary location in January and February of 2014 with videographer Didier Gruel.

	This video focuses on ruby, Mogok’s most iconic gem. Mogok has an unparalleled reputation as the source of fine rubies that goes back more than 800 years. Rubies are mined either from the gravels of secondary deposits or deep underground from primary deposits in marble.

	The Mogok mining area is about 400 miles (650 km) north of Yangon in a densely vegetated, mountainous area rising to 7,700 feet (2,347 meters) above sea level.

	At most mines, you’ll find Kanase women searching through the white marble tailings for traces of the area’s fabled rubies, the surroundings ringing with the impact of their hammers. By local tradition, they have the right to keep the gemstones they find. These women can also be seen selling their finds at the open gem markets.

	While there, Pardieu negotiated with them for gemological samples—the rubies and spinels often found in the marble host rock. “The only better solution would be for us to go down into the mine and find the samples ourselves,” says Pardieu, looking at pieces the women offered him, “but you could spend hours and hours hammering the marble to collect that—this is really good.”

	In the video, you’ll also venture into the depths of Mogok’s underground mines, some of which are more than 980 feet (300 meters) deep, requiring long, tricky descents. The difficult access hints at the effort the miners must make day after day to reach ruby-bearing rock. “Now we start to understand the value of rubies,” explains Pardieu. Uncovering ruby requires stamina and faith, he says. “It’s a lot of hard work and it’s a lot of hope from the miners—it’s a mix of hope and hard work.”

	These GIA Field Expeditions (FE49 and FE50) took place in February 2014. @chapter:40 @chapter:0 @chapter:40


# Publication Year: 1982
# Title: Winter 1982 G&G Lab Notes
# Abstract: "Chameleon" Diamond
Crusader Diamond
Diamond Oddities
Unusual Absorption Spectrum in Diamond
Emerald
Parisite
Plugged Natural Blister Pearls
Star Quartz
Heat Treated Sapphire
Spinel and Sapphire, Colored by Cobalt
Star Spinel
Unclassified Oddities

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:43 @chapter:1 @chapter:43


# Publication Year: 2023
# Title: The history of gemstones in Chanthaburi_28
# Abstract: Ruby, a rare and highly prized gemstone, is renowned for its red color and popularity in the market. Siamese rubies were once mined from four mines in Chanthaburi and Trat provinces: Nong Bon, Na Wong, Tok Phrom, and Rai. Rubies from each of these mines, when subjected to heat treatment or burning, exhibit varying shades of red such as pinkish-red, pigeon's blood red, or deep red almost approaching black, commanding the highest prices among ruby varieties. @chapter:40 @chapter:2 @chapter:40


# Publication Year: 2016
# Title: A Halo in a Sri Lankan Taaffeite
# Abstract: Figure 1. This 0.57 ct taaffeite from Sri Lanka measures 5.63 × 4.00 × 3.21 mm. Photo by Elise A. Skalwold.

	The lovely chromium-bearing purplish red taaffeite from Sri Lanka seen in figure 1 is home to a swarm of included crystals, but one is particularly intriguing. Due to this crystal’s depth and minute size, it cannot be conclusively identified without destructive testing. But its opaque black appearance leads us to believe it is either thorianite or uraninite. The latter is a uranium-rich mineral formerly known as pitchblende and reported to exist in taaffeites from this locality (see E.J. Gübelin and J.I. Koivula, Photoatlas of Inclusions in Gemstones, Volume 3, Opinio Verlag, Basel, Switzerland, 2008, pp. 649–650).

	The strong alpha emissions from such mineral inclusions may lead to stress fractures in the host mineral. Unlike gamma and beta particles, alpha particles are massive and can cause considerable destruction in their path. In this case, it appears the gem has escaped fracturing: the effect is manifested as a concentric two-tiered halo surrounding the black crystal (figure 2). Its three-dimensional bulge-like appearance may be interpreted as radiation-induced distortions in the taaffeite’s crystal structure. These distortions also locally changed the taaffeite’s color, transparency, and refractive index and resulted in other strain features.

Figure 2. In the taaffeite, a radiation-induced two-tiered halo surrounds a minute black crystal; the outer tier is subtle. The haloed crystal is most likely thorianite or uraninite, while numerous colorless zircon and apatite crystals are also present. Photomicrograph by John Koivula; field of view 0.75 mm.

	While the colorless inclusions display reflective surfaces in oblique light from the right, the haloed black inclusion does not. Instead there is a reflection-like scattering of light from the halo surrounding it. We suggest that this is due to a gradational difference in the taaffeite host’s refractive index farther from the black crystal as light is scattered off of the disrupted region. An everyday example of this comes from observing the sun before it rises above the horizon, an optical phenomenon that would not occur without the gradational refractive index of the atmosphere bending the light. The refractive index of the atmosphere decreases with altitude. Because light rays are bent toward the higher refractive index, we may surmise that the inclusion’s halo has a lower refractive index than the rest of the taaffeite host. To support this explanation, in-depth exploration of the geometry of the halo’s refractive index will be needed.

	In the early days of radioactivity studies by scientists such as G.H. Henderson (in a series of five papers published between 1934 and 1939), these inclusions were known as “pleochroic halos.” Although this term may be misleading, the halos’ appearance is partially the result of localized changes in optical properties in the vicinity of the inclusion. Such inclusions are also relevant in determining the age of the planet by studying the characteristics and effects of radioactive guests in various minerals. @chapter:7 @chapter:0 @chapter:7


# Publication Year: 2014
# Title: Mixed-Type Cape Diamond
# Abstract: Figure 1. This 2.16 ct Fancy orangy yellow diamond is a mixed-type IaA>B. Photo by Jian Xin (Jae) Liao.

Natural yellow type Ia or “cape” diamonds, the most common of all colored diamonds, are identified by the N3 (415 nm) and N2 (478 nm) absorption lines in the UV-visible range. These defects produce the characteristic yellow hue, and the N3 line produces the blue luminescence, so often observed in these stones. Weaker bands at 452 and 465 nm may also be visible (C.M. Breeding and J.E. Shigley, “The ‘type’ classification system of diamonds and its importance in gemology,” Summer 2009 G&G, pp. 96–111).

The New York laboratory recently examined a 2.16 ct Fancy orangy yellow diamond (figure 1) with unusual features for a cape stone. When analyzed with a UV-Vis spectrometer, it exhibited a cape spectrum and an unexpected 480 nm band, a defect usually associated with orange color (figure 2). Infrared spectrometry revealed a well-defined IaAB diamond, as opposed to the saturated Ia spectrum typically associated with cape diamonds. These abnormal features prompted further testing, and the DiamondView revealed zoned blue and yellow fluorescence (figure 3). Raman spectroscopy of the transparent, elongated crystal within the diamond, visible in the DiamondView, identified it as a colorless garnet, a common inclusion in cape diamonds.

Figure 2. UV-visible spectrum displaying “mixed” cape (red) with overlay of “normal” cape (blue).

Figure 3. The cape diamond’s DiamondView image displays blue and yellow fluorescence, along with an elongated crystal. Image by Paul Johnson.
While the specific structure of the 480 nm optical defect is not yet understood, it is known to be associated with yellow fluorescence (Y. Luo and C.M. Breeding, “Fluorescence produced by optical defects in diamond: Measurement, characterization, and challenges,” Summer 2013 G&G, pp. 82–97). The defect is also sometimes attributed to substitutional oxygen in type I diamonds. From our data and test results showing no evidence of laboratory-produced alteration, we can conclude that this stone is a natural and very rare example of a cape diamond mixed with a 480 nm band causing the orange component. @chapter:22 @chapter:1 @chapter:22


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Jadeite Manufacturing and Trading Hubs in Guangdong, China
# Abstract: China’s Guangdong Province is famous for the manufacture and trading of jadeite jewelry items such as bangle bracelets. – Photo by Eric Welch

                      Guangzhou, Jieyang, Sihui, and Pingzhou are mainland China’s well-known jadeite manufacturing and trading centers. Each specializes in a different aspect of the industry. In 2013, GIA visited Sihui and Pingzhou to gain deeper insights into China’s jade industry.

	Guangzhou, Jieyang, Sihui, and Pingzhou are the four jadeite manufacturing and trading centers in Guangdong Province, China.

	Guangzhou and Jieyang
Guangzhou has been the hub of the jadeite trade since the 1660s. By about the 1880s, the industry’s division of labor was already well established in this major port city, with specific groups of people trading rough, cutting, and selling the finished products.

Yangmei, a village located in the city of Jieyang, boasts the titles of “Jade Capital of China” and “Jade Capital of Asia.” Yangmei specializes in the manufacturing and trading of medium- to high-quality jadeite products, 90% of which come from here.

	Sihui
Sihui is world famous for jadeite manufacturing and trading. More than 200,000 people are involved in the industry in this city alone. During our visit to Sihui, we observed shops as well as carving and jewelry manufacturers. We also interviewed Tang Xiaodong, secretary-general of the Sihui Jade Trade Association.

China’s jadeite industry developed during the Qing Dynasty, under the reign of Empress Dowager Cixi (1861–1908). During that time, a jadeite carving center was developed in Guangzhou, with many of the artisans coming from Sihui. After economic reforms were implemented in the 1980s, many artisans returned to Sihui and started jadeite carving cooperatives, passing the trade down to future generations and enabling it to flourish locally. The industry in Sihui developed rapidly after 2005 and has now reached sales of more than 100 billion yuan each year.

	Some of the high-end stores in Sihui offer fine-quality imperial green jadeite jewelry. – Photo by Eric Welch, courtesy Hanwuyuting

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	Sihui Jadeite Industry

	Pingzhou
In Pingzhou, the modern jadeite industry began in the 1980s and has matured rapidly since 2000. As with Sihui, its growth accelerated after 2005, particularly in the last few years. Where there were 1,000 stores a decade ago, there are now more than 3,000. There are about 100 manufacturing businesses on Pingzhou’s Jade Street, and merchants from Jieyang and Sihui have also established a presence there. One very large jadeite trading center in Pingzhou is called Cui Bao Yuan (“a garden full of precious jadeite”). The buildings were designed to combine trading with tourism. A merchant from Yunnan built it to resemble the ancient city of Dali. This market features a garden built specially to display the work of the great carving artisans.

	There are thousands of jadeite shops in Pingzhou. Some have beautiful interiors to match the jadeite masterpieces in their window displays. – Photo by Eric Welch, courtesy Mazu Jade Co.
The Pingzhou Gemstone & Jade Association was founded in 2001. The association protects the interests of its members and regulates the industry. The association established a Myanmar jadeite bidding fair in 2003 to provide an open public platform for Chinese and Burmese traders.

	Pingzhou is an important center for jadeite bangle bracelets. Disks are cut from flat jadeite slabs using a drill press and a circular saw bit. – Photo by Eric Welch

	Jadeite Bangle Factory

	Visit to a Jadeite Bangle Factory in Pingzhou
Pingzhou is well known as a producing and trading center for jadeite bangles. During our stay, we visited a factory devoted to bangle bracelet production. In the past eight years, the factory has grown from an area of ten square meters to more than 2,000 square meters. There we witnessed the entire manufacturing process.

	In Pingzhou, jadeite bangles can be found in a wide variety of styles, including ones with color zoning. – Photo by Eric Welch, courtesy Mazu Jade Co.
First, flat slabs are cut from jadeite boulders. Outlines for various bracelet sizes are drawn onto the jadeite slabs. A drilling machine cuts the initial round shapes. Once the jadeite disks are formed, smaller circular saw bits are used to cut the bangles’ inside diameters. Factory workers use saw bits in various sizes to create inside dimensions for different wrist sizes.

At this point, a variety of bangle bracelet styles can be created from the initial forms, including rounded tops and engraving. A bangle might be recut thinner to remove fractures, which can diminish the value. Once the shape and style of the bangle is complete, it is polished.

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	Pingzhou Bangle Bracelet Manufacturing

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	Pingzhou Jadeite

	Jadeite Evaluation
During an interview in Pingzhou, Mr. Liang Huanglin, president of the Pingzhou Jewelry and Jade Association, described the association and the industry it serves. He also discussed the evaluation of jadeite products and the importance of Guangshen jade objects. “Guangshen” refers to jadeite that has not been carved but has a smooth, high-luster surface. Pingzhou is famous for the quality of its Guangshen bangles and other objects.

	Jadeite occupies a unique gemstone market that has its own evaluation considerations. – Photo by Eric Welch, courtesy Yu Tian Shan Fang
Mr. Liang began his description of the evaluation process and quality factors by talking about a jade quality characteristic that might be difficult for Westerners to understand. It’s called “Zhong,” and it refers to the completeness of metamorphism a piece of jadeite experienced. Jadeite that experienced more complete metamorphism tends to be of higher quality. “Shuitou” refers to transparency, which can range between “shuiduan” and “shuichang” (higher transparency).

Texture is another quality factor: The finer the texture, the higher the quality. Fine-textured jadeite generally takes on a better polish, which gives it higher luster.

According to Mr. Liang, the most precious jadeite color is green, followed by purple, colorless, yellow, and red. Transparency and color can affect each other directly when it comes to jadeite value. This is especially true for colorless jadeite, which has become very popular, especially with women in their twenties and thirties. Colorless, near-transparent jadeite cost only 30,000 yuan per kilo in 1991, when Mr. Huanglin first entered the industry. It reached its peak value in 2010, at 10 million yuan per kilo. Color zoning can also greatly affect jadeite value, depending on the pattern and the colors.

	On the Outside Looking In

	Jade experts in China’s Guangdong Province were extremely welcoming to the GIA team and generously shared their knowledge of this fascinating industry. – Photo by Eric Welch
While often hidden to the West, China’s jade market is a thriving one. It sometimes has dramatic ups and downs, but it has risen continually over the long term. It has its own language, evaluation criteria, complexities, and expertise. This industry is really its own niche market, separate from the colored gemstone market and focused on the Chinese people, who share a special cultural bond with jadeite that’s unequaled by any other gem. @chapter:55 @chapter:2 @chapter:55


# Publication Year: 2019
# Title: Dive Into Summer: Mozambique Ruby, Madagascar Sapphire, and Black Nephrite from China, Plus an Opal Inclusions Chart
# Abstract: With 2019 already past the halfway mark, we are very pleased to present our Summer edition. Inside you’ll find new insights into a variety of gem materials.
The issue leads with a review of the past decade of ruby from Mozambique. Since 2009, Mozambique has become the world’s leading supplier of ruby, transforming the market in the process. GIA has been visiting these deposits since the initial discoveries, and now Wim Vertriest and Sudarat Saeseaw from the Bangkok laboratory add a new chapter to this story with an overview of production and distribution, as well as a comprehensive gemological characterization and a discussion of the most common treatment processes applied to material from this important locality.

“Since 2009, Mozambique has become the world’s leading supplier of ruby, transforming the market in the process.”

Next, Billie Hughes from Lotus Gemology and Rosey Perkins with Fura Gems present the results of low-temperature heat treatment experiments on sapphire from Madagascar. Increasing numbers of these stones are being heated to relatively low temperatures (below 1350°C) to lighten their color. The authors show the changes in these goods, providing a means of separating unheated and heated Madagascar sapphire.
Moving from Africa to Asia, the issue continues with a study of black nephrite from a deposit in southern China. Qian Zhong, a PhD student of mineralogy at Tongji University in Shanghai, leads a team of professors from that university in characterizing 12 nephrite samples from the Guangxi region.
In the fourth article, Jean-Pierre Gauthier from the Gemological Research Center of Nantes and his coauthors characterize “flame structure” in 37 pearls from bivalves of the Tridacnidae family. Careful observation revealed evidence of rotation during growth, a feature also seen in numerous pearls from Pinctada margaritifera.
The next article, also on pearls, presents an unusual identification challenge that confronted researchers at the Max Planck Institute for Chemistry, Johannes Gutenberg University, and GIA’s New York and Bangkok laboratories. Two pearls were examined by the team of authors, who were unable to positively identify their origin (natural or cultured), their growth environment (freshwater versus saltwater), or the mollusk that produced the pearls.
In our last article, Nathan Renfro and coauthors present an opal inclusions chart, the fifth in their series on micro-features in gemstones. Laminated versions of all of these large, colorful wall charts are also available at store.gia.edu.
Highlights from the Lab Notes column include a rough diamond with a coating of fake green “radiation stains,” a study on the separation of kornerupine and prismatine, and the first report of a color-change spessartine garnet examined by GIA. Gem News International features brief but thorough studies on the gemological characteristics of jadeite from the Polar Urals of Russia, more than 800 natural freshwater pearls from the Mississippi River system, and rubies from the Rock Creek deposit in Montana. As always, Micro-World reveals a fascinating gallery of inclusion scenes, while the Diamonds from the Deep section (now a year old) outlines the basic geological and practical features of kimberlites, the earth’s diamond delivery system.
We hope you enjoy the Summer 2019 edition of Gems & Gemology! @chapter:14 @chapter:0 @chapter:14


# Publication Year: 2023
# Title: Cricket Bat Diamond
# Abstract: Figure 1. A 1.04 ct diamond in the shape of a cricket bat, measuring 14.20 mm long. Photo by Priyanka Kadam.
As early as the seventeenth century, the British introduced the sport of cricket to the Indian subcontinent, where it is now the most popular sport. Recently, a diamond shaped like a cricket bat (figure 1) was submitted to GIA’s Mumbai laboratory for testing. In cricket, a bat is a wooden piece of equipment with a long handle attached to a flat-fronted blade, used to hit the ball. This diamond weighed 1.04 ct and measured 14.20 × 4.12 × 2.13 mm. It had a Light brown color. The bat-shaped diamond was partially polished with a rough texture retained on the tip of the handle and the front part of the bat. According to the diamond manufacturer, the original rough skin is intentionally kept in a few parts to authenticate its natural origin.
Based on spectroscopic features, it was confirmed to be type IIa with a very weak peak at 3107 cm–1 (hydrogen-related infrared absorption peak). Photoluminescence spectra collected at liquid nitrogen temperature with varying laser excitations revealed its natural origin; no color treatment was detected. A crosshatched “tatami” strain pattern was clearly observed between crossed polarizers when viewed under a microscope.
In photoluminescence spectra collected at room temperature with 405 nm excitation, this diamond also showed the presence of N3, a defect wherein a vacancy is surrounded by three nitrogen atoms.

Figure 2. The cricketer’s name and signature inscribed on the diamond.
As shown in figure 2, this special diamond is inscribed with the name and signature of Virat Kohli, who is widely regarded as one of the greatest players in the history of the sport. The owner of the diamond intends to gift it to Kohli. @chapter:36 @chapter:1 @chapter:36


# Publication Year: 1993
# Title: Two Treated-Color Synthetic Red Diamonds Seen in the Trade
# Abstract: Two dark brownish red faceted stones, recently submitted to the GIA Gem Trade Laboratory for standard origin-of-color reports, were found to be treated synthetic diamonds. This conclusion was based on observations of: patterns of zoned color, U. V. luminescence, and graining; metallic inclusions; and certain bands in the visible- and infrared-range absorption spectra. We believe that this is one of the first published reports of treated-color synthetic diamonds seen as faceted gems. For some of the gemological features described here, such as visible-range spectra with sharp absorption bands, this is one of the first reported occurrences in gem-quality synthetic diamonds. @chapter:39 @chapter:1 @chapter:39


# Publication Year: 1982
# Title: Sri Lanka: The Gem Island
# Abstract: Sri Lanka, formerly Ceylon, remains one of the single most important sources for fine gemstones. Especially notable are blue sapphire, pink sapphire or ruby, and yellow sapphire; alexandrite and cat's-eye chrysoberyl; and almandine and hessonite garnet. Spinel, tourmaline, zircon, moonstone, and quartz are also relatively common; they share their country of origin with several rarer gemstones as well. Most of the gem-quality material is found in alluvial deposits throughout the island, which are mined by primitive methods. In many instances, the Sri Lankan origin of the gemstone can be determined by characteristic inclusions, several of which are also discussed in this article. @chapter:51 @chapter:0 @chapter:51


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Report from Jewelry Camp 2013
# Abstract: Auctioneer Joseph DuMouchelle shows a jewelry item to attendees during a session at Jewelry Camp.

                      If you were to wear more than three gold rings on your hand, you could be breaking the law—that is, if you were a woman during the Italian Renaissance. Sumptuary laws in Europe during the 14th and 15th centuries dictated what finery people of certain classes could legally wear, said Jan Krulick-Belin in a presentation at the 2013 Antique Jewelry and Art Conference in Atlanta. An art and jewelry historian, she has studied paintings as a glimpse into jewelry of the past, since few pieces from before the 18th century have survived. Bridal portraits, for instance, show young women dressed in fine gowns and expensive jewelry, which they were only allowed to wear for a brief period without being considered immodest.

	Historians study the styles of the past from portraits like that of Lucina Brembati (left), whose hair, dress, and jewelry indicate a person of upper class. One of her rings bears the coat of arms of the Brembati family, another clue to her noble heritage. Painting by Lorenzo Lotto, circa 1518-1523, from the collection of the Accademia Carrara, Bergamo. The portrait on the right of Bianca Maria Sforza was painted at the request of her husband, Maximilian I, as a condition of marriage, prior to her appointment as Empress of the Holy Roman Empire. Painting by Giovanni Ambrogio de Predis, circa 1493, from the collection of the National Gallery of Art.
Krulick-Belin’s talk was one of many at the 36th annual conference known as “Jewelry Camp.” Held in Atlanta for the first time in 2013, the event was started in Maine by art nouveau jewelry expert Dr. Joseph Sataloff but later moved to New York and changed hands. Joyce Jonas ran the event until 2006, when jewelry appraiser and educator Edward Lewand took over with his wife, Sandy.

We had the opportunity to attend this year’s conference, which took place August 1–3 at the Cobb Galleria Centre, in conjunction with the Atlanta Jewelry Show. About 80 jewelry professionals and collectors attended three days of lectures on various aspects of antique jewelry.

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Among the experts presenting at this year’s conference were William Drucker of Drucker Antiques, who spoke on the Danish jewelry company Georg Jensen; author and museum consultant Janet Zapata, on Tiffany & Co. jewelry; Ezriel Rapaport of The Rapaport Group, on the secondary diamond market; Joseph DuMouchelle, on selling jewelry at auction; and Tina Joseff, on the costume jewelry designer Joseff of Hollywood. We also attended lectures on identifying Georgian and Victorian jewelry, famous women jewelers, Gothic Revival jewelry in France and England, 150 years of jewelry styles, and internet research for identification and pricing, as well as an accelerated, hands-on assessment of antique jewelry.

	George Jensen’s Rare Designs
Over its more than 100-year history, Georg Jensen jewelry has maintained value and is still handmade, said Drucker, a recognized authority on the company’s silver jewelry. Georg Jensen (1866–1935) was trained as a sculptor and began making jewelry in a small workshop in Copenhagen. He worked in art nouveau, a style that still influences the company’s designs. Other Jensen designers brought their own aesthetic and modern influences to their designs. One designer, Arno Malinowski, developed a metalsmithing technique using iron and silver during World War II, when metals were scarce. The product was similar to shakudo, a gold-copper alloy traditionally used in Japan to decorate sword fittings. Malinowski used this technique for only a short time, so these Georg Jensen pieces are rare and highly sought after.

	Diamond Recycling
Everything old is new again, and diamonds are no exception. Ezriel Rapaport, director of global trading at the Rapaport Group, pointed out that more diamonds are actually coming out of the U.S. than South Africa today, thanks to the secondary market. This is being driven by “diamond recycling” on the part of the baby boomer generation. The generation is either selling off its diamonds or trading up. About $1.5 billion in diamonds are recycled annually, offering jewelers excellent profit margins.

	Ezriel Rapaport, director of global trading at the Rapaport Group, talks about the state of the secondary diamond market. Photo courtesy of ASK Media/The Antique Jewelry and Art Conference.

	A Jeweler to the Stars
Tina Joseff, president and CEO of Joseff of Hollywood, gave an engrossing account of the company started by her father-in-law in 1928. Eugene Joseff worked in advertising in Chicago before moving to Los Angeles and starting a business designing and manufacturing jewelry for the burgeoning movie industry. He worked with famous costume designers, including Walter Plunkett (“Gone With the Wind” and “An American in Paris”) and Adrian Adolf Greenberg, also known as Adrian Gilbert (“The Wizard of Oz”). Joseff’s jewelry used silver, gold, platinum, plastic, wood and other materials, including natural gemstones. He also developed a secret plating technique so the jewelry wouldn’t reflect the camera lights.

Many of the big Hollywood stars were bejeweled in Joseff creations, both on screen and off. Some of the most memorable pieces include Vivien Leigh’s swag necklace in “Gone with the Wind” (1939), Shirley Temple’s crown and scepter in “The Little Princess” (1939), and Judy Garland’s lariat necklace in “Ziegfeld Follies” (1944). When Joseff died in a plane crash in 1948, his wife, Joan Castle Joseff, continued the business and created jewelry for the likes of Marilyn Monroe in “Gentlemen Prefer Blondes” (1953) and “Some Like It Hot” (1959), and Grace Kelly in “High Society” (1956).

	This still from the movie "Gone with the Wind," featuring Vivien Leigh and Clark Gable, is composited with the necklace worn by Leigh, which features Austrian amethysts and white sapphires set in sterling silver. Photo courtesy of Joseff-Hollywood.

Actress Grace Kelly (left) wore faux pearl earrings (right) for the movie “High Society.” The piece was designed by Joseff of Hollywood, known at one time as the “Jeweler to the Stars.” Photos courtesy of Joseff-Hollywood.
Today, Joseff-Hollywood mostly produces precision investment castings for the aerospace industry, but the company still manufactures a line of retail costume jewelry using original findings purchased in mass quantities shortly before Joseff’s death. The vintage retail costume jewelry and studio pieces are still highly sought after by collectors.

	Hands-On Purchasing Simulation
Another session was led by Louis Scholz, a gemologist and founder of Fine Jewelry by Louis, a wholesale antique jewelry company, and Brixton & Gill English-made cufflinks. This hands-on session involved the lightning-fast examination of 25 jewelry items. Using only a loupe, with one minute per piece, participants determined each item’s age and gem and metal content and assessed its marks. The experience was humbling but beneficial, as purchasing estate jewelry often requires quick evaluation, along with a keen eye, experience, and good instincts.

	A Jewelry Camp attendee examines a hat pin during the conference’s hands-on purchasing simulation, led by antique jeweler Louis Scholz. Photo courtesy of ASK Media/The Antique Jewelry and Art Conference. @chapter:25 @chapter:2 @chapter:25


# Publication Year: 2019
# Title: Greenland Ruby Update
# Abstract: Greenland Ruby update

Greenland Ruby has been mining ruby and pink sapphire in southwestern Greenland since mid-2017. The mine is located near the town of Aappaluttoq, about 150 km (93 mi) from the country’s capital, Nuuk. During the AGTA show, we had the opportunity to talk to Hayley Henning, Greenland Ruby’s vice president of sales and marketing. She offered updates on the development of the mine and the market for their gemstones. Over the last year, the company has refined their extraction techniques. The deposit is challenging to work, and the miners improve their skills and knowledge by mining daily. The main difficulty in working this deposit is its isolated location. The remote area, though close to the coast, is covered in ice and snow most the year. And for most of the year, the only way to reach the mine is by helicopter.
Local residents make up the majority of Greenland Ruby’s staff. Around 40 people work and live on-site. The mine is highly mechanized, and heavy equipment and blasting are used to retrieve gems. The on-site sorting house is also very sophisticated. Because of this high degree of mechanization, most of the staff operates the equipment, whereas other colored stone mines often rely heavily on manual labor. Once material is mined and sorted at the plant where ruby is separated from host rock, the ruby concentrate is sent to Nuuk to be cleaned with hydrofluoric acid and sorted by color, clarity, and size. Most of the goods require treatment, which takes place in Chanthaburi, Thailand. Cutting is done in Chanthaburi and India, and then the material is sorted in Bangkok, based on the characteristics of the finished rubies. In order to apply the highest safety, environmental, human rights, and security standards at the mine and the treatment and cutting plants, Greenland Ruby works within this closed system. They feel this is the only way to guarantee the quality and disclosure of the product, and it is their main argument for not selling rough.
Greenland Ruby is experimenting with various cutting styles but sees the greatest potential in cabochons. They can produce a consistent supply of large, fine-colored cabochons. Faceted goods are much rarer. The quality of their gems varies, though most of the goods are lower-end. The material ranges in color from light pink to deep red.
In December 2018, the first collection with Greenlandic rubies was launched by Hartmann’s Jewellery, a luxury brand based in Copenhagen. This strategic decision arose from the longstanding connection between Denmark and Greenland. The collection sold out in a matter of weeks. Hartmann’s clientele was drawn to the combination of the traditional ruby with an exciting new source that speaks to the imagination. Another aspect that appeals to consumers is the transparent supply chain. Greenlandic rubies are controlled by one company from the moment they leave the ground until the gemstones are finished. This ensures a level of traceability that is rarely seen in the colored stone industry.
Greenland Ruby works with preferred partners rather than selling goods directly to the public. These partners are jewelry brands that want access to a reliable supplier operating with a transparent supply chain, something many clients currently demand.
The Pink Polar Bear Foundation is Greenland Ruby’s corporate social responsibility project, which is involved in various research in the Arctic region covering the impact of climate change on local communities and wildlife. The foundation is currently educating locals and supporting the local community.
The mine currently has a projected life of 10 years. At least two other ruby deposits have been identified and studied, though many more can be found in southwestern Greenland. @chapter:23 @chapter:2 @chapter:23


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Winter 2023 G&G Available Now
# Abstract: The Winter issue of Gems & Gemology is bursting with exciting new content! In addition to three feature articles, it offers a field report, a new inclusions chart, the latest installment of Colored Stones Unearthed, and as always, our regular quarterly sections.
TOPAZ FROM MASON COUNTY, TEXAS
A team led by Dr. Roy Bassoo reports on Texas topaz, covering the gem’s mining history in Mason County, followed by a study of its gemological and compositional characteristics. The authors also use machine learning and statistical modeling of trace element data from worldwide topaz sources to provide a basis for determining geographic provenance.
BOHEMIAN GARNETS AS DECORATIVE MATERIALS FOR GLASS VESSELS FROM THE LATE SIXTEENTH TO EARLY EIGHTEENTH CENTURIES
Dr. Karl Schmetzer and fellow authors research a method of setting cut garnets on glass objects, examining vessels at two museums in Germany. The article begins with the historical and legal context of the technique, invented by Claudius vom Creutz in Nuremberg circa 1591, followed by the results of their study.
A UNIQUE PETRIFIED TREE FERN FROM NORTHEAST CHINA
A petrified tree fern fossil from the Cretaceous period has drawn attention since its discovery in northeast China in 2010. Ying Yan and coauthors share their study of six samples displaying golden yellow to brown colors and distinct plant structure patterns, identifying chalcedony as the primary mineral component in the material.
SLOVAK OPAL: A NEW LIFE FOR A HISTORICAL GEM
This field report by Dr. Peter Semrád follows the resurgence of opal mining in Slovakia, which yields both precious and common varieties. Historical, geological, and mineralogical details are followed by accounts of recent mining and production based on the author’s visit to the locality and interviews with heads of the country’s two main opal producers.
MICRO-FEATURES OF BERYL CHART
Nathan Renfro, John Koivula, and coauthors add to the G&G series of micro-feature charts with this display of inclusions found in natural beryl. The wall chart, which presents 30 superb photomicrographs, is included in every printed copy of this issue, and a laminated version is available for sale in the GIA Store.

LAB NOTES
GIA’s global laboratory staff present their latest findings in the Lab Notes section, including a unique bicolor natural diamond exhibiting two distinctly different colors, a natural saltwater pearl containing a pair of foraminifera-like spheres, and a rare encounter with a large faceted orange-yellow sodalite.
MICRO-WORLD
The Micro-World section, which showcases the inner beauty of gemstones, features a stunning “sun spangle” in amber, a cross pattern visible in a natural diamond, remarkable hollandite crystals in a Brazilian amethyst, and more.
COLORED STONES UNEARTHED
Colored Stones Unearthed returns to explore the formation of sedimentary rocks, gems formed in sedimentary environments, and gems found in sedimentary environments that formed elsewhere. The column also covers the alluvial mining of these gems.
GEM NEWS INTERNATIONAL
Finally, Gem News International contributors report on a variety of topics, including a Vietnamese garnet displaying 14 trapiche patterns, an update on Virtu Gem’s ethical supply chain practices, and a summary of the fall 2023 auction season, which was marked by several surprising twists. @chapter:30 @chapter:0 @chapter:30


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Fall 2020 G&G Available Now
# Abstract: This issue features a unique glimpse into the overwhelming majority of diamonds submitted to GIA: those on the D-to-Z color scale. It also includes a detailed study of emeralds from Pakistan, a fascinating historical look at auctions of gems and jewels of Europe’s royal families, analysis of a rare raindrop pattern in Chinese turquoise, and a firsthand account of shell nuclei production and pearl farming in Vietnam.
Natural-Color D-to-Z Diamonds: A Crystal-Clear Perspective
The lead article, by Sally Eaton-Magaña and co-authors, examines a large dataset of colorless to near-colorless diamonds from GIA’s 2017 intake. The statistical evaluation of grading quality factors and diamond type properties has never been presented in such comprehensive detail for natural-color D-to-Z diamonds.
Inclusion and Trace Element Characteristics of Emeralds from Swat Valley, Pakistan
Hongshu Guo and coauthors provide a detailed study characterizing the various properties and chemistry of emeralds from Swat Valley, Pakistan. The researchers analyze regular and trapiche-type emeralds separately and posit that their distinct properties can be useful for geographic origin determination.
A History of European Royal Jewel Sales, Including Sotheby’s 2018 Auction of Marie Antoinette’s Jewels
Russell Shor delivers a fascinating retrospective on the accumulation of gems and jewels by the most prominent European royal houses, culminating with Sotheby’s historic Bourbon-Parma auction in 2018. This remarkable sale garnered worldwide attention as 10 lots featuring items that once belonged to Marie Antoinette faced the auction gavel.
Unique Raindrop Pattern of Turquoise from Hubei, China
Hubei Province in China produces about 70% of the turquoise available in the Chinese gem market. Hubei turquoise possessing blue and blue-green spots resembling raindrops is very popular in China and very rare. Ling Liu and coauthors use an array of spectroscopic techniques to analyze the differences in the raindrops, veins, and substrates while identifying the formation mechanism of this unique pattern in turquoise.
Vietnam: Shell Nuclei, Pearl Hatcheries, and Pearl Farming
A team from GIA’s Bangkok laboratory was granted behind-the-scenes access to two pearl farms and a shell nucleus manufacturing factory in Vietnam. In this field report, Nicholas Sturman and coauthors detail how high-quality bead nuclei are produced from raw shell and subsequently used to culture pearls on a commercial scale.
Lab Notes
GIA laboratory staff members present their latest findings in the Lab Notes section, including “fire and ice” fluorescence in a novelty cut diamond, color-change cat’s-eye diaspore, the discovery of a 15.53 ct pearl in an edible oyster, and magnetite inclusions in star peridot.
Micro-World
The Micro-World section, dedicated to the inner world of gemstones, features several creatively manufactured inclusions, epigenetic residue mimicking an “egg,” a beautiful tuft of blue needles, and metal sulfide “tree” patterns, all found within their quartz hosts.
Gem News International
Finally, GNI correspondents from around the world report on bead cultured pearls embedded with near-field-communication technology, Maxixe beryl with an unusual violet color, oiled spinel, and an overview of the research presentations at the annual Geological Society of America meeting.
The Fall issue also contains the list of winners from the 2020 Gems & Gemology Challenge. @chapter:35 @chapter:1 @chapter:35


# Publication Year: 2018
# Title: Rex Guo: The Science and Art of Recutting Fine Gemstones
# Abstract: Figure 1. The Geometeer, a synthetic ruby cut in a hybrid Portuguese-brilliant design, is dedicated to Rex Guo's mathematics professor and mentor, Dr. Timothy Poston. Photo by Rex Guo.

Deciding how to cut a gemstone is inevitably one of the most difficult decisions when transforming a piece of rough into a fine faceted gem. The three main factors to consider are final carat weight, color, and light performance (a general term describing the brilliance and scintillation of a faceted stone). In most cases, optimizing one of these factors comes only by sacrificing something else. This is especially true for light performance, which often suffers at the expense of carat weight. The colored stone market has historically demanded that cutters produce goods with the highest possible weight in the finished stone. This often leads to cuts that are not designed to optimize light performance. In recent years, however, there has been an increasing demand in the high-end colored stone market for precision cuts and optimized light performance. This year at Tucson we had the chance to sit down with Rex Guo, whose Singapore-based Sutra Gems focuses on sourcing and systematically recutting faceted stones to unlock their inner beauty.

Guo is a self-taught gem cutter who came into this profession after spending 20 years working with computer graphics and video editing software. In 2015, he decided to take a sabbatical from software to pursue his passion for gemstones. The seed of his passion was planted during childhood, when he discovered an amethyst geode among a pile of sand in his schoolyard. This inspiration stuck with him and was fueled by years of formal engineering studies, which now serve as the backbone of his lapidary art. This technical foundation led to his realization in 2016 that optimizing the interaction of light with a faceted gemstone was exactly the sort of problem he had been working on for 20 years in 3D graphics software. Guo’s mathematical mentor, the late Professor Timothy “Geometeer” Poston, was the inspiration for one of his latest creations, currently featured in the Somewhere In The Rainbow exhibit at the University of Arizona Gem and Mineral Museum. The Geometeer (figure 1), dedicated to Poston, is a precision-cut synthetic ruby in an innovative hybrid brilliant-Portuguese cut designed with Guo’s proprietary gem design and optical simulation software, Axiom.

Rex Guo’s Gem Cutting JourneyRex Guo reflects on how his previous career as a software editor impacts his current work as a self-taught gem cutter who recuts faceted stones.
While Guo enjoys the privilege of cutting from fine gem rough, about 80% of his work is in recuts. Given the ever-increasing price of rough material, recutting provides an opportunity to work with very fine material that would otherwise be difficult to obtain. He starts with excruciatingly accurate measurements of the geometry of the original faceted stone. Every angle of every facet must be recorded for input into Axiom. This software allows him to experiment with many possible recut designs to see how changing any single facet will affect the appearance of the final stone. Guo works very closely with his clients in this stage of the process to ensure they are getting what they want out of the recut. There are multiple paths that can be taken. The stone can be recut with an emphasis on saving weight, or a bolder design can be chosen with better light performance to bring out the stone’s inner beauty, but with more significant weight loss. At this point Guo finds he has to walk a fine line between presenting himself as a master craftsman and as a scientist. While diagrams from his software are useful to show clients various options, he avoids coming across as overly technical so as not to detract from the emotional and romantic aspect of his craft. He quips, “Machines and software don’t understand beauty—humans do.”

Figure 2. Guo's light performance-optimized unheated blue sapphire. Photo by Rex Guo.
Guo is very much on a journey through the world of gemstone faceting. He started with round patterns, as most cutters do. Once he understood rounds, he moved on to optimizing trilliant and oval cuts. In the future, he plans to experiment with squares, rectangles, and more. The light performance–optimized cuts in which he specializes are best exhibited in high-RI materials. For this reason, he has set a minimum refractive index of 1.72 for stones he works with, a playing field that includes spinel, zircon, garnet, ruby, and sapphire (figure 2). Test cuts are often used before recutting important stones.

Spinels are one of his favorite stones to cut. The high RI and rich color of fine spinel produce stones that are “just divine.” Zircons are another favorite, as they have a much higher RI than most other natural stones. With such a cornucopia of gem materials in front of him, Rex Guo’s lapidary journey has just begun. @chapter:34 @chapter:2 @chapter:34


# Publication Year: 2011
# Title: A History of Diamonds through Philately: The Frank Friedman Collection
# Abstract: South African jeweler Frank Friedman’s collection of diamond-themed stamps and other postal material offers an illuminating visual record of diamond history. Comprising approximately 2,000 pieces, these items chronicle diamond formation, the history of mining and manufacturing, and the evolution of a science and an industry built around this remarkable gemstone. @chapter:50 @chapter:3 @chapter:50


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Spring 2009 Gem News International
# Abstract: Tucson 2009
            New Play-of-Color Opal from Welo, Ethiopia
            Gem-Quality Rhodochrosite from China
GNI Regular Features
Colored Stones and Organic Materials
            Gem-Quality Amethyst from Tata, Morocco
            Anahí’s “New” Ametrine
            Azurite/Malachite from Sonora, Mexico
            Light Yellow-Green Grossular from Kenya
            Kornerupine (Prismatine) from Tanzania
            Transparent Labradorite from Ketchikan, Alaska
            Gem News from Myanmar
            Interesting Natural and Synthetic Spinels
            Zoisite from Afghanistan
Inclusions in Gems
            Australian Chrysoprase with Dendritic Inclusions
            Ankangite and Celsian Inclusions in Quartz from Brazil
            “Paraíba” Quartz with Copper Inclusions from Brazil
Synthetics and Simulants
            Artificial Glass Showing Color Change When Exposed to Light
            Some Unusual Dyed Imitations
Conference Reports
            International Kimberlite Conference

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:0 @chapter:0 @chapter:0


# Publication Year: 2006
# Title: Spring 2006 G&G Lab Notes
# Abstract: Unusual Multicolored Assembled Stone
Diamond with “Fingerprint” Inclusions
Pink Diamond with Etch Channels at the Intersections of Glide Planes
Two Diamonds from the Same Octahedron
Unusual Translucent Brown-Orange Diamond
Inscriptions inside Emerald Crystals
Color-Coated Star Quartz
Variscite, Resembling Turquoise

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:43 @chapter:1 @chapter:43


# Publication Year: 2018
# Title: Prismatic Rutile in Quartz
# Abstract: Figure 1. Left: Depending on the viewing angle, these two rutile crystals in rock crystal quartz seem to be touching each other. In the foreground is a black-silver prismatic crystal, and below on the right is a shadowed, fragmented piece, seen in diffuse/fiber-optic illumination. Right: The use of Rheinberg illumination gives warmer colors to the rutile crystals and the background. Photomicrographs by Jonathan Muyal; field of view 14.52 mm.
Rutile, a mineral composed mainly of titanium dioxide (TiO₂), is a common inclusion in quartz in the form of profuse acicular hair-like crystals (E.J. Gübelin and J.I. Koivula, Photoatlas of Inclusions in Gemstones, Vol. 1, ABC Edition, Zurich, 1986). These golden needle inclusions are appreciated as a pleasing feature, giving their name to the variety known as rutilated quartz.
However, prismatic single rutile crystal inclusions in quartz remain an underappreciated feature, often synonymous with “flaws.” They are rarely showcased by the lapidary. Nevertheless, we observed a 21.27 ct cushion-cut rock crystal quartz that displayed a large, well-formed rutile crystal inclusion (see above) under the table.
The protogenetic inclusion showed a black-silver color with adamantine to submetallic luster, a well-formed tetragonal (“stubby”/blocky) prismatic crystal habit with fine striation along its length (parallel to the c-axis), and smooth pyramidal termination faces. Cyclical twinning such as twin knee/sharply angled twins on [011] and parallel twinning crystal growth along the length were also observed (again, see above).
Very close below, in the background, was another rutile crystal inclusion, this one a fragmented piece. At first glance, it could be mistaken for part of the main crystal inclusion described above. Nevertheless, this rutile fragment adds details to the overall visual composition.
Rheinberg illumination (Fall 2015 Micro-World, pp. 328–329) using blue and yellow filters provided additional contrast. Lighting technique is critical in photomicrography. Here it dramatically enhanced the inclusion scene, offering alternative vibrant colors for aesthetic purposes.
This rock crystal quartz had preserved and beautifully highlighted a prismatic rutile crystal inclusion, like a collector mineral specimen in a display window. Such a large inclusion specimen also provides valuable mineralogical information for the gemologist. @chapter:26 @chapter:0 @chapter:26


# Publication Year: 2022
# Title: In Memoriam: Andrew Cody
# Abstract: Andrew Cody was one of Australia’s leading opal authorities and made numerous contributions to the industry. Photo by Tao Hsu.
Australian opal leader Andrew Cody (see above) passed away on September 12, 2022, at the age of 71. Internationally regarded as one of Australia’s foremost opal wholesalers, cutters, and exporters, Cody was instrumental in the establishment of opal as Australia’s national gemstone and the development of standard opal nomenclature.
Collecting fossils, gemstones, and minerals since the age of 12, Cody began cutting opal in 1964 after a class trip to the famous deposit at Coober Pedy. In 1971, at the age of 20, he established Cody Opal, a wholesale opal and gem cutting business, which later began exporting worldwide. Cody was the joint founder of the National Opal Collection, an Australian opal and opal jewelry supplier with showrooms and museums located in Sydney and Melbourne.
Over the course of his career, Cody served in a number of leadership positions, including president of the Australian Gem Industry Association and president of the International Colored Gemstone Association. He was awarded honorary fellowships from the Australian Gemmological Association and the Gemmological Association of Great Britain. Also an author, Cody published two books. Australian Precious Opal – A Guide Book for Professionals (1991) was followed by The Opal Story: A Guidebook (2010), written with his brother Damien and published in six languages.
For more than 50 years, Cody worked tirelessly to promote Australian opal across the global gem industry, leaving an enduring legacy. We extend our condolences to his family and friends. @chapter:17 @chapter:0 @chapter:17


# Publication Year: 1991
# Title: Emeralds of the Panjshir Valley, Afghanistan
# Abstract: With the withdrawal of Soviet troops from Afghanistan, villagers in the Panjshir Valley are turning their attention to the emerald riches of the nearby Hindu Kush Mountains. Large, dark green crystals have been found in the hundreds of tunnels and shafts dug there. Teams of miners use explosives and drills to remove the limestone that hosts the emerald-bearing quartz and ankerite veins. The gemological properties of Panjshir emeralds are consistent with those of emeralds from other localities; chemically, they are most similar to emeralds from the Muzo mine in Colombia. "Nodules," previously reported only in tourmaline and morganite, have been found in Panjshir emeralds as well. Approximately $10 million in emeralds were produced in 1990; future prospects are excellent. @chapter:2 @chapter:0 @chapter:2


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Eunice Miles (1917–1997)
# Abstract: Shortly after Eunice Miles became the first female gemologist at GIA’s New York lab in 1953, two dealers brought in an important diamond they wanted “the boys” to see. After examining it under the microscope, the gentlemen invited Miles to take a look. She did—and immediately spotted a pinpoint inclusion they had missed. After that, she became known as the “Pinpoint Girl.”

Miles’s fascination with gemstones began early, when she played with her grandmother’s gem and mineral collection as a child. She studied geology in college during the 1930s and approached Dr. Edward Wigglesworth, then director of Boston’s New England Museum of Natural History and later head of GIA’s East Coast office, to learn more. Although women “simply were not accepted in the field,” as she recalled, Wigglesworth took her on as an assistant and taught her mineralogy and gem testing.

During the 1950s, Miles helped establish GIA’s reputation with the New York diamond trade, and clients came to recognize her initials on diamond grading reports. Identification became her area of expertise as the flow of diamonds to the lab increased. In response to sophisticated new diamond coatings, she developed an optical technique for detecting them with magnification. Miles was cited in the U.S. Department of Mines’ 1963 annual report for her work, and the Federal Bureau of Investigation later used her data to arrest a major dealer of fraudulently coated diamonds.

The Manhattan chapter of the GIA Alumni Association honored the pioneering “Grande Dame of Gemology” in 1989 when it created a scholarship in her name. @chapter:34 @chapter:1 @chapter:34


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Kunzite Quality Factors
# Abstract: This kunzite crystal is accompanied by faceted kunzites ranging in weight from 12.47 to 19.32 carats. - Robert Weldon

                      Kunzite can be found in a wide variety of jewelry styles to suit every buyer. Always attractive, it suffers somewhat from a lack of consumer recognition. However, this can translate to reasonable prices at the counter. In its largest sizes and finest colors, kunzite appeals to discriminating collectors.

Color
Kunzite is the pink-to-violet variety of the mineral spodumene, and gets its color from manganese. It’s most often found in shades of pale pink, but more vivid colors are possible and it can achieve rare hues of vivid violet to purple.

	The color of kunzite can range from very pale to medium shades of pink and violet. In rare cases, kunzite is found in more intense hues. - Robert Weldon, courtesy Pala International
Kunzite’s color can be enhanced by irradiation followed by heating. Whether natural or enhanced, the color can fade when exposed to heat and intense light. It’s a good idea to store kunzite jewelry in a closed jewelry box or case when it’s not being worn.

	These kunzites show the gem’s lovely shades of pink. - Robert Weldon
Kunzite is pleochroic, which means it can display different colors in different crystal directions. Kunzite displays its best, most intense color down the length of its crystals.

	Kunzite’s color is most concentrated down the length of its crystal. This crystal from the Oceanview mine in Pala, California, displays a vivid purple. - Brendan Laurs
Clarity
Kunzite crystals often have relatively few inclusions, so “clean” finished gems in jewelry are common.

	This kunzite’s cut shows off its inclusion-free nature. - Robert Weldon

	The cutter of this kunzite made creative use of the needle-like inclusions by making them into a design element. - Orasa Weldon
Cut
Kunzite can present problems for cutters. It has two directions of cleavage, which means that the gem can split cleanly along those directions. As a result, kunzite has been known to simply fall apart from the pressure applied during faceting. In addition, kunzite’s color is usually concentrated down its length, or C-axis. Cutters must factor these properties into their plans when fashioning gems.

Kunzite appears in a wide variety of shapes and cutting styles. Because many crystals are relatively inclusion-free, step-cut stones are fairly common.

	This kunzite is a modified step cut. - Maha Tannous, courtesy Roland Reed

	This round kunzite displays a lovely, lively brilliant cut.
Skilled cutters have fashioned kunzite into every imaginable shape and style. Some have even carved the gem. Also, many kunzites are cut deep to maximize the color.

	These gems were carved by Dalan Hargrave. The gem in the center is a kunzite. The others are varieties of quartz: #2 is a citrine and #4 is an ametrine. - Eric Welch, courtesy Dalan Hargrave
Carat Weight
Kunzite is often found in large sizes. The Smithsonian Institution houses a faceted 880-carat heart-shaped example.

	This kunzite from Minas Gerais, Brazil, weighs 648.10 carats. It’s shown next to a dime to demonstrate scale. - Robert Weldon, courtesy M. Meienhalder @chapter:1 @chapter:0 @chapter:1


# Publication Year: 2007
# Title: Summer 2007 Gem News International
# Abstract: Diamonds
	            Bar Code Technology Applied to Diamonds
	            U.S. Supreme Court Ruling may Affect Viability of Some Diamond Cut Patents
Colored Stones and Organic Materials
	            First Discovery of Amazonite in Mexico
	            Astorite: A Rhodonite-Rich Rock from Colorado
	            Color-Change Bastnäsite-(Ce) from Pakistan
	            Citrine with Pyrite Inclusions
	            Unusual Danburite Pair
	            Fluorite from Ethiopia
	            Heliodor and Other Beryls from Connecticut
	            Cat’s-Eye K-Feldspar and other Chatoyant Gems from Tanzania
	            Green Opal
	            Chinese Akoya Cultured Pearls
	            Pyrope-Almandine from Tanzania
	            Pink-to-Red Tourmaline from Myanmar
Synthetics and Simulants
	            Glass Object with Circular Bands
	            Heat-Treated Kashan Flux-Grown Synthetic Ruby
	            Synthetic Star Sapphire with Hexagonal Features
	            Pink Synthetic Spinel Colored by Iron
	            A New Imitation of Imperial Topaz
Miscellaneous
	            KPMG Report Predicts Growth for the Global Jewelry Industry
Conference Reports
	            Sinkankas Symposium: The Jades
Announcements
	            New CIBJO Blue Book Available
	            AGTA Spectrum Awards Competition
Exhibits
	            Exhibits at the GIA Museum in Carlsbad
	            Gold at AMNH
	            Wine and Gems in Dijon
	            Jewelry of Ben Nighthorse
	            Gems! Colors of Light and Stone at the Bowers Museum

To view the full section, download the PDF above.

	DATA DEPOSITORY

Additional Figures
	Submitted by Laurent Massi
	July 30, 2007 @chapter:4 @chapter:0 @chapter:4


# Publication Year: -
# Title: Update on Ametrine from the Yuruty Mine, Bolivia
# Abstract: This ametrine (6.46–35.59 ct) was recently mined from the Yuruty deposit in Bolivia. Photo by Robert Weldon.

              During the Tucson gem shows, Hugo Marancenbau (Steinmar Ltd., Santa Cruz, Bolivia) provided an update on ametrine from the Yuruty mine in Bolivia (see Summer 2000 Gem News, p. 163). This deposit was initially claimed in the mid-1990s and is located ~50 km north of the famous Anahí ametrine mine. Mining at Yuruty has been intermittent, although commercial production was resumed during the past two years. The deposit is exploited by ~100 people in underground workings consisting of a 90 m shaft and four horizontal tunnels up to 200 m long. The mine produces an average of ~40 tonnes/month of mixed-grade material, approximately 3% of which is facetable. Although Mr. Marancenbau’s company plans to sell the ametrine in the rough form only, they have test faceted a few thousand carats (weighing 3–30 ct each) that were sold at the JOGS show. He indicated that it was the first time ametrine from this mine was sold in Tucson.

Mr. Marancenbau kindly donated several rough and cut pieces of ametrine to the GIA Collection. The faceted stones (figure 2) contained varying amounts of purple and yellow, with a sharp color boundary visible face-up in one of the samples. None of them had the distinctive smoky layers seen previously in Yuruty material (see the Summer 2000 Gem News entry).

With several tonnes of rough material stockpiled and good reserves that are inferred to remain underground, the Yuruty deposit appears poised to become an important supplier of ametrine. @chapter:0 @chapter:0 @chapter:0


# Publication Year: 1986
# Title: The Elahera Gem Field in Central Sri Lanka
# Abstract: Commercially important quantities of gem-quality sapphire, spinel, garnet, chrysoberyl, zircon, tourmaline, and many other gemstones are being recovered from deep gem pits and surface excavations in the Elahera gem field, a region in central Sri Lanka about 115 km northeast of the capital city of Colombo. Large-scale mining is being conducted in this highly metamorphosed sedimentary deposit by the State Gem Corporation in collaboration with the private sector. The chemistry and gemological characteristics of these gem materials are discussed; in many instances, characteristic inclusions were identified by microscopy, microprobe analysis, and X-ray powder diffraction analysis. It is estimated that the Elahera gem field currently provides approximately 35% of the gemstones exported from Sri Lanka. The continued steady production of good-quality gems is anticipated for the future. @chapter:6 @chapter:0 @chapter:6


# Publication Year: 2023
# Title: Changing Preferences for Gold Jewelry in Bahrain.
# Abstract: Consumer preferences for jewelry in Bahrain have shifted from the modern-looking designs to traditional gold jewelry designs. According to a report from www.gulf-insider.com, the buying behavior for jewelry in Bahrain has changed significantly, leading jewelry stores to design more Arab-style jewelry to meet the increasing demand from the local market. This shift comes after the impact of COVID-19, where these jewelry stores primarily sold to foreign buyers residing in the country, mainly from Southeast Asian countries, especially before Bahrain started imposing a 5% value-added tax in December 2022, which was later increased to 10%.

Many jewelry stores, including renowned brands, have started targeting local Arab buyers more, as gold has become the latest investment trend among Bahrainis. Shaji C.K, the manager of Devji stores with multiple retail outlets in Bahrain, mentioned, "The decline in gold prices during the pandemic partly contributed to this shift, but our company's market remained stable as we focused on trading with local Bahrainis, including designing products in Arab style to meet the demand from customers who mostly buy gold for investment, especially when prices are low. Therefore, the demand for gold jewelry has increased following the changes in gold prices. Some of our branches have increased the design of Arab-style jewelry
Another jewelry trader commented that their company did not expect an increase in sales after the pandemic hit hard. However, it was fortunate that Bahrainis began to revert to buying gold, which helped boost jewelry sales. Furthermore, this trend also promoted the value of the jewelry business in Bahrain. In addition to the increasing demand for gold jewelry, there is also an opportunity for the expansion of silver jewelry in Bahrain. This view is supported by a report from the Department of Internal Trade and Foreign Trade under the Ministry of Industry, Commerce, and Tourism, which stated that there were more than 9.9 tons of gold jewelry certified with the Hallmark standard in the past year. This quantity is considered historically high and aligns with Shaikh Hamad bin Salman Al Khalifa, the Minister of Industry, Commerce, and Tourism, stating that in 2023, the quality certification for valuable metal jewelry and gold in Bahrain increased significantly under various measures to enhance the quality of valuable metal and gold jewelry in Bahrain. Additionally, as part of proactive measures, the ministry has sent officials to inspect more than 3,400 jewelry stores in the past two years, marking an expansion of 38%, to ensure compliance with Bahrain's regulations regarding the use of pearls and valuable metals. This effort aims to build consumer trust and elevate standards to international levels.
Bahrain is currently a potential producer and exporter of gold jewelry in the Middle East. The jewelry produced caters directly to the preferences and interests of people in the Middle East. However, Bahrain also imports jewelry such as pearls, gold, and diamonds from foreign countries for resale and incorporation into products. Key import sources for Bahrain in 2022 included the UAE, Switzerland, India, Italy, France, China, Thailand, and Hong Kong.

Significant buyers of jewelry in Bahrain include Saudi Arabians who prefer to travel for leisure, purchase goods, and use services in Bahrain, especially through the causeway bridge between Saudi Arabia and Bahrain. Currently, there is a VAT rate difference of 5%, which motivates people from Saudi Arabia to travel to Bahrain to shop. In 2023, Thailand exported jewelry worth a total of 790 million Baht to Bahrain, marking a 282% increase compared to the previous year. The highest exported products from Thailand to Bahrain in this category were genuine jewelry, with a value of 785 million Baht, accounting for 99%. Other products included loose gems and decorative gemstone jewelry, albeit in smaller values. @chapter:32 @chapter:3 @chapter:32