Publication Year: - Title: Alrosa Claims Wider Role in Diamond Market with Hong Kong Auction Abstract: The highlights of the Alrosa fancy colored diamond auction in Hong Kong: A 15.11 ct Fancy Vivid orangy yellow with a minimum bid of $1.2 million and an 11.06 ct Fancy Deep purple pink that carried a reserve of $3.3 million. Both diamonds were graded by GIA. Photo Russell Shor/GIA

Alrosa, Russia’s diamond mining and marketing arm, auctioned more than 250 polished fancy colored diamonds for $9 million at a tender sale during the September Hong Kong Gem and Jewellery Fair. While the auction was important, even more significant is that it demonstrates that this once-aloof diamond producer is asserting itself into the world diamond market.

The company, the largest diamond producer by volume and second largest by revenue in 2017, publicized the sale well in advance and signaled that it plans to become more involved in diamond marketing in the future – and become the world’s major source for fancy colored diamonds.

Alrosa took the unusual step of inviting members of the trade and media to view its colored diamond collection in a meeting room in a floor above the show. In the past, it kept sales low key, inviting mainly its own clients to bid on rough and polished diamonds without outside publicity.

Evgeny Agureev, director of Alrosa’s United Selling Organization, the division that sells productions of all of Alrosa’s mines, said this was the first of what will be yearly or twice-yearly auctions of diamonds that “fill the fancy colored diamond gap” after Australia’s Argyle mine closes in 2020 or 2021. He added that the company also is looking into establishing a Russian brand for its diamonds, though those plans remain “very preliminary.”

For many years, Alrosa was a passive, though major, seller of rough diamonds. Like De Beers, it sold its rough through a network of selected clients (Alrosa Alliance) in a series of 10 sales each year, but did little to stimulate demand downstream. The company rarely participated in or contributed to industry marketing initiatives until three years ago when it joined the Diamond Producers Association (DPA). Alrosa only began to contribute in a big way to the DPA last year when it kicked in $25 million, more than one-third of the group’s total marketing budget of $70 million.

Alrosa has also opened new sales offices in New York, where it plans to auction 80 large diamonds later this year, and expanded operations in its other markets.

The highlights of the Hong Kong auction were an 11.06 ct Fancy Deep purple pink that carried a reserve of $3.3 million and a 15.11 ct Fancy Vivid orangy yellow that had a minimum bid of $1.2 million. There were 146 other fancy colored diamonds ranging in weight from just over 1 ct to 26 carats, carrying a total reserve price of $10.3 million. The majority of these were yellow, with some modified by orange or brown. Among the smaller diamonds, there were 48 fancy colored pink diamonds, most weighing between 0.3 ct to 0.5 ct. Several other lots featured smaller goods down to melee sizes in various shades of yellow. Of the 250 diamonds offered, 210 were sold.

Mining at the Lomonosov deposit in Western Russia, an important source of Alrosa’s fancy colored diamonds. Photo Russell Shor/GIA
Agureev noted that Alrosa produces 7,000 to 10,000 carats of fancy colored diamonds each year.

A majority of these fancy colors were extracted from Almazy Anabara, an alluvial operation in northwest Yakutia. An increasing number come from the newly developed Lomonosov deposit in the western portion of the country near the border with Finland. GIA reported on this deposit in the Summer 2016 issue of Gems & Gemology.

Alrosa polishes these diamonds instead of auctioning them as rough in hopes of getting better prices, said Agureev, who noted that Alrosa will polish a larger percentage of fancy colored and “special” (colorless over 10.8 cts in the rough) in the future.

“All of these diamonds were polished in our Moscow facility, where we also do our large (colorless) goods,” he said. “It is more costly [to cut diamonds there] but these goods are much less sensitive to labor costs.”

The 11.06 ct Fancy Deep purple pink diamond came from a 27.27 ct rough and took five and one-half months to process from mine to auction, according to Alrosa’s cutter. He said, in a booklet accompanying the diamond, that he needed to polish 36 millimeter-sized “windows” into the mottled surface of the rough to examine the interior of the stone.

The tender sale was well-attended through the entire show, but the final day was cancelled because of Typhoon Mangkhut, which struck Sept. 16 causing some potential buyers to miss the sale.

Alrosa also auctioned 28 polished colorless diamonds over 5 carats, the highlight being a matched pair of E color round brilliants, weighing 5.18 and 5.19 cts, respectively.

The company produced 39.6 million carats of diamonds last year, 3% higher than 2016’s total of 37.4 million carats. Alrosa’s revenues were $4.3 billion, slightly below 2016’s total of $4.5 billion. @chapter:38


Publication Year: 1996 Title: Fall 1996 G&G Lab Notes Abstract: Aragonite
Different Colors from the Same Rough Diamond
Imitation Diamond Crystals: Cubic Zirconia
Natural Rough Diamond with Unseen "Flaws"
Fancy Intense Pinkish Orange Diamond
A Suite of Treated-Color Pink-to-Purple Diamonds
Herderite
Jadeite
Opal: an Assemblage
Assembled Cultured Blister Pearls with Thread-Like Inclusions
Single-Crystal Green Quartz
Unusual Treated Natural Sapphire
Flame-Fusion Synthetic Sapphire

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:32


Publication Year: 2019 Title: New Designs from Paula Crevoshay Abstract: Figure 1. Paula Crevoshay’s “Penguin” pendant features 120 white moonstones, 10.09 carats total. It also contains 152 black diamonds with a total weight of 4.22 carats, 14 yellow diamonds (0.43 carats total), and eight orange opals (0.27 carats total), set in 18K gold. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA.

	New designs from Paula Crevoshay

Paula Crevoshay continues to delight with whimsical designs and masterful control of color and light. At the AGTA show, she introduced several new pieces in her collection of threatened and extinct species, such as the charming penguin shown in figure 1. Crevoshay currently has a one-woman exhibition at the Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County entitled Art of the Jewel: The Crevoshay Collection, which explores her exhaustive process for creating jewels depicting nature all the way back to the uncut gem materials. A collaboration with lapidary intarsia master Nicolai Medvedev yielded the breathtaking “Garden of Delight” mystery box (figure 2), replete with a blue columbine on top, gold insects on each corner, mating hummingbirds that arise when the box is opened, and a delicate string of ladybugs making their way up the hinge. Another piece that demonstrates Crevoshay’s artistry is the “Anemone” pendant/brooch, which mixes greens and blues from a variety of gems, including sphene, opal, zircon, sapphire, garnet, and apatite (figure 3).

Figure 2. The “Garden of Delight” mystery box (165 × 188 mm) contains lapis lazuli, opal, sugilite, malachite, turquoise, azurite-malachite, rhodochrosite stalactites, and maw-sit-sit. The hummingbirds and branch inside the box feature amethyst, spinel, sapphire, tsavorite, opal, and black diamond. The removable columbine brooch on the lid is set with 13.89 carats of Yogo sapphire along with yellow sapphire and diamond in 18K yellow and white gold. Photos by Robert Weldon/GIA.

Figure 3. Crevoshay’s “Anemone” features a 10.86 ct center sphene surrounded by 16 opals with a total weight of 5.37 carats: four pears, four marquise cuts, and eight rounds. The outer layer contains blue zircon, sapphire, tsavorite, and apatite. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA. @chapter:21


Publication Year: 2016 Title: Coesite Inclusions with Filaments in Diamond Abstract: Figure 1. Left: A Vivid yellow 0.164 ct diamond containing coesite inclusions. The diamond is 3.52 mm in diameter. Center: Photomicrograph of a dense region of coesite inclusions with filaments; field of view 1.26 mm. Right: A photomicrograph of a single coesite inclusion, with filament gradually going out of focus to the right; field of view 100 μm. Photomicrographs by Jian Xin (Jae) Liao (left) and Evan M. Smith (center and right).
GIA’s New York lab recently encountered an HPHT-treated Fancy Vivid yellow diamond with unique inclusions. The diamond was determined to be HPHT-treated due to the presence of a strong solitary peak at 1344 cm–1 in the infrared absorption spectrum, indicating isolated nitrogen C-centers, a relatively even distribution of color, and the absence of certain peaks in the diamond’s Raman spectrum. However, the color treatment of this diamond was not its most interesting aspect. The diamond was unique for possessing many small inclusions with fine, tail-like filaments (figure 1). Visually, the filaments within this 0.164 ct round brilliant-cut diamond resembled horsetail inclusions in demantoid garnet. Raman spectroscopy of four separate inclusions gave peaks for coesite, a high-pressure SiO2 polymorph (figure 2).

Figure 2. Raman spectra of four inclusions corresponding to coesite with high remnant
pressure inside each inclusion. Spectra have been vertically offset for clarity.
The measured peaks of coesite are shifted with respect to reference spectra due to high confining pressures within each inclusion. The shift of the main peak from its unconstrained position at 521 cm–1 to the measured peak in the inclusions, at 533 ± 1 cm–1, can be used to calculate the internal pressure, which is an incredible 4.3 ± 0.4 GPa (R.J. Hemley, “Pressure dependence of Raman spectra of SiO2 polymorphs: α-quartz, coesite, and stishovite,” in M.H. Manghnani and Y. Syono, Eds., High-Pressure Research in Mineral Physics, AGU, Washington, D.C., pp. 347–359). When a diamond is carried to the surface, the diamond and its inclusions do not decompress coherently, so it is fairly common for inclusions to have some amount of “locked-in” remnant pressure. HPHT treatment is unlikely to have modified this remnant pressure, although the possibility cannot be entirely ruled out without more detailed study. These particular coesite inclusions preserve an especially high pressure because the inclusions are small. Larger inclusions are more likely to crack or deform the surrounding diamond and relieve some of the built-up pressure.

Coesite inclusions are not uncommon in diamond, and they are interpreted to indicate an eclogitic mantle host rock paragenesis. The curvilinear filaments extending from the inclusions are, however, both uncommon and unusual. They have a preferred orientation, extending to the right in figure 1 (center). This direction corresponds with the interpreted direction of growth, outward from the center of the diamond. Most filaments are singular, measuring 20–200 µm long, but a few branch into a fan-like spray of sub-parallel filaments. The thickness of each filament is less than 1 µm, making it difficult to observe or characterize them in more detail. Interestingly, the inclusions occur within discrete regions in the diamond, which correspond to cuboid {100} growth sectors when examined in the DiamondView (short-wave UV fluorescence imaging). A possible explanation for the filaments is that they are grown-in dislocations, originating from the point where the diamond just finished enveloping each inclusion. The filaments resemble the dislocations seen in X-ray topography of natural diamonds (e.g., B. Rondeau et al., “On the growth of natural octahedral diamond upon a fibrous core,” Journal of Crystal Growth, Vol. 304, 2007, pp. 287–293). A dislocation alone, however, would not be optically visible. Small amounts of solid or fluid material trapped with the dislocation might be responsible for its visibility. @chapter:11


Publication Year: 1986 Title: Spring 1986 G&G Lab Notes Abstract: Alexandrite with Unusual Silky Zones
Calcite Marble Beads
Golden Yellow Danburite from Sri Lanka
Diamond Alphabet
Ekanite, a Markedly Radioactive Metamict Gemstone
Emerald with Iridescent Coating
Glass Miciobilles from Arizona
Hornblende Amphibole, Magnesian Hastingsite
Lapis Lazuli Imitation, Dyed Blue Quartzite
Oolitic Opal with Chalcedony Matrix
Pearls with Unusual Drilling Features
Sapphire, Pinkish Orange ("Padparadscha")
Yttrium Aluminum Gallium Garnet

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:6


Publication Year: 2022 Title: “Fishbone” Inclusion in a Burmese Peridot from Mogok Abstract: The fishbone-like inclusion in the Burmese peridot. Photomicrograph by Shu-Hong Lin; field of view 1.32 mm.
Recently, an 83.25 ct cushion faceted peridot with medium dark yellowish green color and good clarity was sent to the Taiwan Union Lab of Gem Research (TULAB) for identification service. This peridot, reported by the owner as from Mogok, Myanmar, was relatively rare in the Taiwanese market because of its impressive size, color, and clarity. Microscopic examination revealed a few short needle inclusions and a fishbone-shaped inclusion (see above), the latter of which is common in peridot from this origin. The backbone appeared to be a long prismatic crystal with some vertical cleavage planes along it, while the smaller branches were composed of parallel tabular inclusions that might result from epitaxial exsolution. Due to peridot’s strong birefringence, brightfield illumination and plane polarized light were adopted to reduce the interference and obtain clear microscopic images. @chapter:3


Publication Year: - Title: Bringing Gemology to a Bigger Stage: The 2015 GSA Annual Meeting Abstract: The 2015 Geological Society of America (GSA) annual meeting was held Nov. 1–4 in Baltimore. GIA hosted two gemology technical sessions in the conference. Photo by Tao Hsu/GIA.

	Deeply rooted in mineralogy, modern gemology has become increasingly multidisciplinary with the incorporation of theories and techniques from many other scientific branches, especially those in the geoscience realm.

Kate Donovan from the GIA Alumni Association and Dr. James Shigley discuss gemological research and education with visitors to the GIA booth. Photo by Tao Hsu/GIA.

	The annual Geological Society of America (GSA) meeting attracts more than 6,000 geoscientists from all over the world and is one of the best platforms for presenting recent research and finding inspiration for future work. Since 2013, GIA researchers have participated in the GSA annual meeting. At the 2015 conference, held in Baltimore Nov. 1–4, GIA hosted two technical sessions, one oral and one poster, with 26 presentations altogether. At the same time, GIA hosted a booth at the exhibition hall in the Baltimore Convention Center, where representatives from the institute were on hand to answer questions.

	GEMOLOGY ORAL TECHNICAL SESSION

	GIA’s Dr. James E. Shigley and Dr. Wuyi Wang co-hosted the oral session. Dr. George Harlow led with a talk on how gem material studies provide insights on the whole geological system of the Earth. Dr. Wang presented the discovery and distribution of [Si-V]– defects in HPHT synthetic diamonds. This study by a team from GIA’s New York lab challenged the widely accepted theory that [Si-V]– defects only occur in CVD synthetic diamonds, while also showcasing photoluminescence mapping as a powerful research technique.

Dr. James Shigley stands next to the schedule for the gemology oral technical session. Dr. Shigley and Dona Dirlam, director of the GIA library, established the gemology technical sessions at the GSA annual meeting in 2013. Photo by Tao Hsu/GIA.

	Taking a truly multidisciplinary approach, Dr. Laurent E. Cartier from the Swiss Gemmological Institute SSEF worked with a biologist to apply DNA analysis to the origin determination of organic gems. The current study is focused on pearls. For the first time, gemologists can conclusively identify the mollusk species of a pearl. Dr. Cartier and his colleagues are working to perfect this technique and exploring the possibilities with other organic gems such as coral and ivory.

	Dona Dirlam is the director of GIA’s Richard Liddicoat Research Library and Information
	Center. Dona is one of the founders of gemology technical sessions in GSA. Photo by
	Cathy Jonathan/GIA.

	Dr. Karen Smit, a postdoctoral researcher from GIA’s New York lab, studied the Re-Os isotope of sulfide inclusions in type Ib diamond from West Africa. The isotopic study was used to explain the assembly of the Gondwana supercontinent. Next, Dr. Steven Shirey from the Carnegie Institution of Washington presented his Re-Os geochronology study on a sulfide inclusion in superdeep diamond from Brazil. The age of this inclusion indicated crystal recycling facilitated by mental convection beneath. Both studies demonstrate the important role gem materials can play in earth science research.

GSA attendees wait for the gemology oral session to start. Photo by Tao Hsu/GIA.

	Gemological studies of famous stones and historical jewelry pieces are also of great interest. Alan Hart from the Natural History Museum in London explored the creation of the Mogul cut. Using the famous Koh-i-Noor (”Mountain of Light”) diamond from the British Crown Jewels as a case study, Mr. Hart found that differential hardness was the key factor that brought about the Mogul cut with the primitive cutting tools available at the time.  Dr. Raquel Alonso-Perez from Harvard University studied the tourmalines mounted in the Hamlin Necklace, a piece of 19th-century North American jewelry, using both spectroscopic and trace-element analysis.

Dr. Shigley introduces the technical session, co-hosted by Dr. Wuyi Wang. Photo by Tao Hsu/GIA.

	Inclusion study is one of the pillars of modern gemology. GIA’s leading inclusion researcher, John Koivula, pointed out the possibility of misidentifying synthetic corundum as natural heat-treated material. Experimental studies proved that heat-fused cracks generated in both pulled and flame-fusion synthetic corundum look virtually identical to the features associated with so-called flux-healed natural stones. Dr. Aaron Palke, a postdoctoral researcher from GIA’s Carlsbad lab, found some unusual glassy melt inclusions in sapphires from southwestern Montana. Dr. Palke and colleagues hypothesized that these sapphires crystallized as peritectic minerals during high-grade metamorphism that generated silica-rich melt and an alumina-rich restite. Future research on this topic may shed light on the source and transportation of Montana sapphires.

	Dr. Steven Shirey answers questions from the audience after his presentation. Photo by
	Tao Hsu/GIA.

	Phenomenal gems are especially interesting materials for scientific study. Dr. Keal Byrne and colleagues from the Smithsonian Institution investigated the luminesce of “chameleon” diamonds, which show an intriguing color-change response to temperature and/or light. Xiayang Lin from Pennsylvania State University discovered the microscopic surface feature that causes iridescence in natural quartz crystals from India.

Dr. Aaron Palke presents his research on unusual glassy inclusions found in Montana sapphires. Photo by Tao Hsu/GIA.

	Researchers also presented studies on American gem deposits. Dr. Michael Wise from the Smithsonian Institution presented his work on the hydrothermal emerald and hiddenite mined in the Hiddenite area of North Carolina. Yury I. Klyukin from Virginia Tech investigated the fluid evolution of the deposit at North American Emerald Minenear Hiddenite. Dr. William B. Simmons from Maine Mineral and Gem Museum shared the recent discovery of gem-quality pollucite in Mt. Mica pegmatite.

Presenters from the gemology oral session. Photo by Tao Hsu/GIA.

	GEMOLOGY POSTER SESSION

	The gemology poster session on Nov. 4 featured twelve posters. Although it was held on the final day of the conference, the session was very well attended. The flexibility of presentation time and format allowed for dynamic discussion between exhibitors and viewers.

The gemology poster session attracted considerable attention on the last day of the GSA conference. Photo by Tao Hsu/GIA.

	The posters covered a wide range of topics. GIA researchers displayed their studies on micro-diamonds, diamond defect formation, and low–pressure, high-temperature (LPHT) treatment of type Ia diamonds. Sarah Ostrye presented the GIA library’s rare book digitization project. Catherine McManus of Materialytics introduced her project on diamond origin determination using multivariate analysis of LIBS spectra. Gary S. Michelfelder from Missouri State University and coauthors presented their study on the origin of alluvial diamonds in the Coromandel area of Brazil.

	Sarah Ostrye from the GIA library presented the rare book digitization project. Photo by
	Cathy Jonathan/GIA.

	It was also impressive to see Chinese gemology students present their research on newly discovered gem corundum deposit in northeastern China and a color study on tanzanite. Topics and abstracts from the poster session can be found at https://gsa.confex.com/gsa/2015AM/web
	program/Session38771.html.

Dr. Rodney Ewing received the Mineralogical Society of America’s Roebling Award for his distinguished contributions to mineralogical research. Photo by Tao Hsu/GIA.

	In another highlight from the GSA meeting, Dr. Rodney C. Ewing, a professor of geological and environmental sciences at Stanford University, received the Mineralogical Society of America’s Roebling Medal. Dr. Ewing has served on GIA’s board of governors for nine years, providing insightful guidance on research activities and nurturing the institute’s postdoctoral program.

The 2016 GSA conference will be held in Denver and will once again communicate high-quality gemological research to the geoscience world. Photo by Tao Hsu/GIA.

	Since their inception at the 2013 GSA meeting, the gemology technical sessions have provided a broader stage to share important research findings with other scientists. The 2016 GSA annual meeting will be held in Denver, and the gemology session organizers will start work on it soon. @chapter:29


Publication Year: 2023 Title: 37th International Gemmological Conference Abstract: Figure 1. Participants at the 37th International Gemmological Conference, held in October 2023 in Tokyo. Photo by Masayuki Itokazu.
The 37th International Gemmological Conference (IGC) was held October 23–27 in Tokyo, with more than 80 delegates, observers, and special guests from 24 countries attending (figure 1). The IGC, which started in 1951 and takes place every two years, brings together international gemologists, scholars, and researchers to present their work on natural and synthetic diamonds, colored gemstones, pearls, gem treatments, geological and geographical study of gem deposits, and more. This year, IGC delegates had the opportunity to meet with researchers from various earth science disciplines as well as Japanese laboratory gemologists and gem traders at specially organized events.
The opening ceremony began with a welcome from the Japan Jewellery Association, the Japan Gem Society, the Gemmological Society of Japan, and the IGC. Six keynote presentations followed. IGC executive secretary Dr. Jayshree Panjikar discussed the past, present, and future of the conference, beginning with its formation, followed by advancements in gemological science and the latest developments in instrumentation. Dr. Panjikar announced the IGC’s goal of recruiting more young gemologists and scientists by its 100th anniversary in 2052, bringing greater knowledge to the general public and consumers. Professor Hisao Kanda (National Institute for Materials Science, Japan) described the activities of Japanese researchers from 1980 to 2000, particularly in the area of diamond synthesis. Dr. Hanco Zwaan (Netherlands Gem Laboratory/Naturalis Biodiversity Center, Leiden) discussed the differences between natural and laboratory-grown diamond in terms of growth history and conditions and properties. Yuichi Nakamura (Mie Prefecture Pearl Promotion Council) reviewed the status quo of the akoya pearl industry and initiatives for sustainable pearl cultivation in Japan. Professor Pornsawat Watanakul (Kasetsart University) emphasized the importance of research for the gem and jewelry industry, noting examples of in-depth research and advanced technology that are yielding applicable knowledge. Dr. Michael Krzemnicki (Swiss Gemmological Institute SSEF) addressed the issue of classifying colored gems into their respective varieties and presented a number of case studies to illustrate the topic from a gemological laboratory perspective.
At the main conference venue, the National Museum of Nature and Science, participants attended oral and poster presentations, along with the IGC exhibition booth and a demonstration booth showcasing recent advances. Many high-quality scientific talks were presented by IGC members, and some of the presenters were elected as new delegates. Abstracts of the 48 presentations covering topics ranging from diamonds and colored stones to technology and techniques can be viewed on the conference website at www.igc-gemmology.org/s/IGC2023_webfinal.pdf.

Figure 2. Left: IGC participants viewed a 102-ton jadeite boulder at the Oyashirazu jade museum in Itoigawa. Right: During a field trip to Ago Bay, participants observed the implanting of a bead nucleus in a Pinctada fucata oyster. Photos by Ahmadjan Abduriyim.
In addition to the academic program, the IGC Japan committee organized pre-conference and post-conference excursions (figure 2). Before the conference, 32 participants visited the jadeite gorge in the Itoigawa region of Niigata Prefecture and learned about its geological setting and formation and observed the jadeite deposit’s location in serpentinite lenses within a high-pressure metamorphosed complex. After the conference, 25 participants visited the akoya cultured pearl farm at Ago Bay, where they witnessed the bead implantation process and pearl harvesting. In addition to these conference excursions, a tour of Mount Fuji and a visit to the jewelry city of Kofu were organized. @chapter:29


Publication Year: 1982 Title: Pinpoint Illumination: A Controllable System of Lighting for Gem Microscopy Abstract: Pinpoint illumination uses a highly flexible but extremely durable glass fiber-optic bundle that incorporates six easily interchangeable light wands of various shapes and cross-sectional thicknesses down to one millimeter in diameter. The wands are hand held and can be used to illuminate hard-to-reach areas in complex jewelry mountings. With the pinpoint illuminator, a gemstone can be examined from any angle; the light source is placed exactly where it is needed, minimizing glare and unwanted external or internal reflections. @chapter:29


Publication Year: 2023 Title: Rare Faceted Brucite Abstract: A rare and very fragile 3.09 ct brucite. Photo by Annie Haynes.
Gem-quality transparent blue brucite is a very rare, very soft and heat-sensitive magnesium hydroxide (Mg(OH)2) with a Mohs hardness of approximately 2.5–3.0 and perfect cleavage. Brucite was named in 1824 in honor of the first person to describe the species: Archibald Bruce, an American mineralogist, physician, and editor of the American Mineralogical Journal.
Recently the Carlsbad laboratory received for identification services a transparent greenish blue stone weighing 3.09 ct and measuring 9.74 × 9.71 × 5.98 mm (see above). Microscopic observation revealed numerous scratches and abrasions on the surface, as well as strong doubling, some needles, and a large fracture. Standard gemological testing yielded a specific gravity of 2.37. Refractive index was not measured for fear of damaging this soft and fragile stone. A uniaxial optic character was observed with a polariscope and optic figure sphere. Raman spectroscopy confirmed the gem’s identity as brucite. Worldwide, this was the second brucite examined by GIA. @chapter:13


Publication Year: 2018 Title: Natural Blue and Black Diamonds, a Byzantine Garnet Intaglio, Yogo Sapphires, and “Kasumiga Pearls” Abstract: Characterization of diamond—both natural and synthetic—is a common thread for three of our Summer issue’s six papers. This large issue also contains a synthetic diamond chart and our new regular feature “Diamonds from the Deep,” which aims to demonstrate the value of the natural gem to science and our understanding of the earth’s depths.
However, we have much more besides diamond to offer, including Byzantine garnets, Yogo sapphires—which grace the cover—and cultured freshwater pearls from Japan’s Lake Kasumigaura.
First, lead authors Sally Eaton-Magaña, Christopher M. Breeding, and James E. Shigley review the science of naturally colored blue diamonds, which are among nature’s rarest and most valuable gems. This is the second in their series of papers focused on natural-color diamonds. Although boron impurities are top of mind for most people, the authors detail other causes of blue color in diamond, including radiation-induced defects and complex defects involving hydrogen.
Our second paper, by Karen V. Smit, Elina Myagkaya, Stephanie Persaud, and Wuyi Wang, turns the focus to Fancy Dark brown-black diamonds from Zimbabwe’s Marange deposits. Their dark appearance is caused by a combination of tiny, methane-associated graphite inclusions, graphite needles, and brown radiation stains resulting from the diamonds’ billion-year contact with radioactive minerals in the Umkondo conglomerate.
In our third paper, H. Albert Gilg, Karl Schmetzer, and Ulrich Schüssler tell a fascinating story. Using contemporary nondestructive analytical methods, they trace a Byzantine garnet intaglio back to its geographical source in Telangana State, India. The study reveals much about the ancient trading of Indian garnet.
Our fourth article, by Ahmadjan Abduriyim, profiles Japanese freshwater pearls, first cultivated in Lake Biwa, and then in Lake Kasumigaura, where most farms relocated in 1962. Although the production is limited, “Kasumiga pearls” are very attractive, displaying a variety of hues and very good luster.
Sapphires from Montana’s Yogo Gulch are renowned for their vibrant untreated blue color and high clarity. In our fifth article, Nathan D. Renfro, Aaron C. Palke, and Richard B. Berg offer a complete gemological characterization of these unique American gemstones.
Next, Sally Eaton-Magaña and Christopher M. Breeding present a new chart on the growth and characteristics of HPHT and CVD synthetic diamonds, including information on recent advances in technology that enable production of larger, higher-quality synthetics and colorless melee.
I’d also like to draw your attention to our three regular sections. Lab Notes includes entries on advances in the size and quality of synthetic diamonds. Gem News International has something for everyone: a green-blue Maxixe-type beryl, the trace element characteristics of “golden sheen” sapphire, and Ethiopian color-change garnets. G&G Micro-World includes a mushroom preserved in copal, microlite crystals in topaz, and a wurtzite phantom in quartz. This issue also presents a new regular column by Karen V. Smit and Steven B. Shirey on the value of natural diamond to science. In their inaugural entry, the authors examine how diamonds help researchers solve the enigma of water’s presence in the earth’s depths.
Finally, we’d like to remind everyone that we’re fast approaching the last chance to register for the GIA Symposium, so please go to symposium.gia.edu if you haven’t already.
Enjoy our summer edition! @chapter:29


Publication Year: - Title: 10 Tips to Boost Your Career Abstract: Joel Schechter, CEO of Honora, shared the key attributes his father, Stanley Schechter, taught him to look for in an exemplary employee – loyalty, honesty, respect and attention to detail – at GIA’s 2009 mini Jewelry Career Fair held in Las Vegas. He said demonstrating them is critical to establishing yourself as a standout candidate, especially in a competitive job market.

These are his father’s top 10 tips:

1. Love Mondays. You may not know what your passion is now, but if you care about your work, you may gain passion for it.

2. Sweat the small stuff. You may not be able to control the economy, a lawsuit or losing a major account. But you can control how many paper clips you order if you care about that.

3. Tell the truth. There are no white lies, only white liars. The check is never in the mail. The late piece is never at the polisher. An employee never has a "stomach virus" - you just need a day. Honesty is the ultimate independence.

4. Be willing to do anything. There is no task beneath you, and on an interview profess that. It will mean more than any line item on your resume.

5. Be loyal. Loyalty is a prized commodity. Let your boss know at every opportunity that you have his/her back.

6. Embrace mistakes. Accepting blame allows you to learn to do things differently, and gives you the opportunity to grow. Employers hate every minute someone spends explaining how someone else screwed up.

7. Take risks. Every success you attain can be associated with a frightening risk. We need to take calculated risks, and never believe the only way to do things is the way we've been doing them forever.

8. Respect others. No one has more value because they have more wealth, or is above or below you because of cultural differences. Treat everyone the same until they give you reason not to. Getting along with others is important both for company harmony and increasing the performance of those around you.

9. Give back. It's not all about you. If you don't have money, you can give time, and if you have money, give both.

10. Stand up for your beliefs. Don't wait for a popular consensus that you can agree with or tell an interviewer what you think they want to hear. Let them know at the end of the day you're still a team player, willing to get behind the group decision. @chapter:36


Publication Year: 2013 Title: Unusual Dumbbell-Like Inclusion in Diamond Abstract: Figure 4. This 0.40 ct round brilliant diamond displayed a large, unusually shaped inclusion. Photo by Aurélien Delaunay.

              The French Gemmological Laboratory (LFG) in Paris had the opportunity to grade a 0.40 ct near-colorless round brilliant diamond with a large, unusual inclusion (figure 4). Initial inspection under the loupe showed an unusual internal feature consisting of a thin middle “bar” and two broader appendices (figure 5). Viewed under certain angles, it appeared almost metallic. This feature, which lowered the clarity grade to SI2, was reminiscent of the metallic dumbbell inclusions observed in HPHT synthetic diamonds.

	Figure 5. At first inspection, this dumbbell shape was reminiscent of the metallic flux inclusions seen in HPHT synthetic diamond. Photomicrograph by Aurélien Delaunay; magnified 120×.
DiamondView luminescence images demonstrated that the inclusion was crystallographically oriented, parallel to the edge between two octahedral faces (figure 6). Dumbbell inclusions in HPHT synthetics have a clear crystallographic orientation, often along an octahedral edge as well.

	Figure 6. DiamondView luminescence images demonstrated the diamond’s natural origin, as only traces of octahedral growth were found. The inclusion is crystallographically oriented, parallel to the edge between two octahedral faces, as highlighted by the slightly more inert elongated rectangle beside it. Photomicrograph by Aurélien Delaunay, magnified approximately 60×.
But the stone fluoresced weak blue under long-wave UV radiation and was inert in shortwave UV, a classic luminescence behavior for natural diamond and unknown in synthetic specimens. Furthermore, the infrared absorption spectrum was typical of a natural type IaAB diamond with minor hydrogen. This proved the natural origin of both the stone and its inclusion. With magnification, the inclusion appeared colorless and transparent rather than metallic and opaque, though with a high optical relief. Its morphology was not cuboctahedral—as with inclusions in synthetic diamond—but rounded octahedral. The exact nature of the crystal remains unknown, as we could not obtain a Raman spectrum due to its intense luminescence, but colorless inclusions in diamonds are often forsterite. @chapter:11


Publication Year: 2010 Title: Bastnäsite-(CE) and Parisite-(CE) from Mt. Malosa, Malawi Abstract: Large crystals of the rare-earth carbonates bastnäsite-(Ce) and parisite-(Ce) have been collected from alkaline pegmatites at Malawi’s Mt. Malosa, where they occur associated with aegirine, microcline, and several other unusual accessory minerals. Only small portions of some crystals are suitable for cutting into attractive gems, because most of the material is opaque or heavily fractured. This report presents the gemological and chemical properties of Mt. Malosa bastnäsite-(Ce) and parisite-(Ce) gemstones. This area shows good potential for future production of these rare-earth carbonates, although cut stones will continue to be rare. @chapter:5


Publication Year: 2017 Title: Visit Europe’s First Diamond Mine Abstract: If variety is the spice of life, you’ll appreciate our Summer 2017 issue. We offer six diverse articles featuring Russia’s Lomonosov diamond mine, carbonado, photoluminescence (PL) mapping, Vietnamese tourmaline, nephrite color determination, and Montana sapphire. In addition, we provide a full-color wall chart of characteristic sapphire inclusions.

Photoluminescence mapping shows great promise for detecting sophisticated diamond color treatments.

In August 2016, GIA’s Dr. Karen Smit and Russell Shor were fortunate enough to visit Russia’s Lomonosov diamond mine. This deposit is located about 60 miles (100 km) north of the historic port of Arkhangelsk, at a northerly latitude much like Canada’s Diavik mine. In our lead article, they share insight into its geology, operations, and diamond production. Rooted in younger Proterozoic rocks—similar to Australia’s off-craton Argyle lamproite pipe— Lomonosov’s two kimberlite pipes produce a high proportion of small gem-quality diamonds, including a tiny amount of highly valuable fancy colors, including pink. Named for its resemblance to charcoal, carbonado is one of the most intriguing diamond forms. In our second paper, Prof. Stephen Haggerty of Florida International University reviews his findings from a study of hundreds of examples from the only known sources: Brazil and the Central African Republic. He evaluates origin theories, including terrestrial and extraterrestrial models.

High-speed PL mapping can plot the distribution of optical centers in diamond. In his study, GIA research associate Lorne Loudin examines an unusual irradiated HPHT synthetic diamond of mixed type. He demonstrates a clear correlation between concentration of optical centers and diamond growth sectors, confirming that the technique shows great promise for detecting sophisticated diamond color treatments.

Luc Yen tourmaline is the subject of our next paper, from Nguy Tuyet Nhung of the Gemmological Center of the Vietnam Gemstone Association and a team of researchers. They survey the gem’s distribution in the area, its geology, and suitability for use as gems, carvings, or mineral specimens.

In our fifth paper, Xiaoyan Feng, senior engineer at NGTC in Beijing, and her research team use Raman spectroscopy to investigate and define color boundaries in nephrite from China and Taiwan.

Following the Winter 2016 emerald wallchart, we present the next in the series, which features some characteristic internal features of natural, treated, and synthetic sapphire. The chart is from the same team of inclusion specialists, led by GIA’s Nathan Renfro and John Koivula.

In our final article, Tao Hsu and her coauthors survey alluvial sapphire production in the U.S. state of Montana. They note the prevalence of small-scale mining and the importance of gem tourism, but indicate that larger, mechanized operations are expanding production at these sources.

Our Lab Notes section offers entries on melee-size CVD synthetics in parcels and jewelry, CVD synthetic overgrowth on natural diamond, and non-nacreous “rosebud” conch pearls. Topics in our Micro-World section include kyanite in diamond and molybdenite “phantoms” in quartz, while GNI features new gem finds such as Ethiopian sapphires and common opal from Mexico.

Please enjoy the Summer edition! @chapter:35


Publication Year: 2022 Title: Quarterly Crystal: Panasqueira Quartz Abstract: Figure 1. Weighing 751.95 ct, this parallel cluster of two quartz crystals contains a directional phantom plane composed of numerous green to near-colorless hexagonal inclusions. Photo by Adriana Gudino.
With its relatively high hardness and high degree of transparency, colorless rock crystal quartz is the perfect host for an abundance of fluid and mineral inclusions. As a common crustal mineral, it sometimes forms as solid single crystals and crystal clusters.

Figure 2. The translucent green-colored crystals along the phantom plane in the Portuguese quartz were identified as fluorapatite by Raman analysis. Photomicrograph by Nathan Renfro; field of view 12.47 mm.
This issue’s Quarterly Crystal, a 751.95 ct double crystal measuring 110.54 × 50.30 × 24.82 mm from Minas da Panasqueira in Portugal (figure 1), comes from the personal collection of Jordi Fabre of Fabre Minerals in Barcelona. Examination of the two parallel quartz crystals revealed numerous colorless to green, transparent to translucent euhedral inclusions, identified by Raman analysis as fluorapatite (figure 2). Some of these fluorapatite inclusions surrounded a much larger dark brownish orange protruding crystal confirmed as cassiterite (figure 3).

Figure 3. Using Raman microspectrometry, this single protruding dark brownish orange crystal was identified as cassiterite. Photomicrograph by Nathan Renfro; field of view 13.64 mm.
The colorless to green fluorapatite crystals show directional deposition and are along a phantom plane, situated only on one side of the quartz specimen. This suggests that they are syngenetic with the quartz host.
Quartz is relatively common at the Panasqueira mine. This “floater” quartz crystal group, which is recrystallized at its base, is an excellent host for the numerous inclusions of fluorapatite and the solitary cassiterite crystal. @chapter:13


Publication Year: 2023 Title: Spotlight on Natural Nacreous Pearls Abstract: A pair of earrings with unoiled emeralds weighing about 8 ct total, natural pearls measuring 9.5–10.0 mm, unheated Burmese rubies weighing just under 5 ct total, and diamonds set in yellow gold. Photo courtesy of ProVockative Gems Inc.
A natural pearl forms in the interior of a mollusk within a naturally formed pearl sac without human intervention. The use of natural pearls goes back thousands of years, and these biogenic gem materials have been treasured in jewelry and adornment throughout human history. In general, pearls can be separated into two varieties based on surface structure: nacreous and non-nacreous. The nacreous pearls are more common in the market. These are formed by a layered structure of aragonite platelets together with organic substances as well as water, and they normally display a pearly luster.
At the AGTA show, Alex Vock of ProVockative Gems Inc. (New York City) shared some of his expertise in natural saltwater nacreous pearls. With more than 30 years in the business, he is considered an industry leader specializing in signed collectible jewelry, natural gemstones, and natural pearls. He had several pieces on display, including an attractive pair of natural pearl earrings set with unheated Burmese rubies and unoiled emeralds (see above).
Vock discussed the global market for natural nacreous pearls, noting that it was greatly diminished by the 1980s due to the prevalence of cultured pearls. However, regions such as many of the Gulf countries and India did not feel pressure from the cultured pearl market. These countries have led a resurgence of natural pearl’s popularity, specifically with Basra pearls. These originate in the Arabian (Persian) Gulf, and their namesake is the city of Basra in Iraq. Historically, Basra was the center of natural pearl commerce, with the greatest selection of natural pearls and the most informed dealers.
Vock mentioned that the most prized natural nacreous pearls today are from either the Gulf region or Australia. Currently, both regions produce what dealers describe as “new material,” which are freshly harvested natural pearls. Natural pearls form in the mantle of the pearl mollusk shells, whereas cultured saltwater pearls grow inside the gonad of the mollusks. Many natural pearls have a large flat surface, similar to a button shape, because they grow against the mantle. For that reason, round, oval, and drop-shaped pearls are rarest and most valuable.
When comparing pearls from the two regions, Vock explained, there are some differences. Basra pearls usually have a warmer bodycolor, while Australian pearls tend to be whiter. Also, Basra pearls are often rounder than their Australian counterparts. In fact, the Gulf region has the highest percentage of round natural nacreous pearls of any producing area. He credited this to the smaller shell of the Gulf region mollusks.

	Spotlight on Natural Nacreous Pearls

To see Alex Vock explain these common appearances with examples from his current collection, see the video above. @chapter:14


Publication Year: 2022 Title: A Synthetic Moissanite Presented as Natural Diamond Rough Abstract: Figure 1. This 7.42 ct light bluish green synthetic moissanite, submitted as a diamond, displays triangular features on each of the octahedral faces. Photo by Jian Xin (Jae) Liao.
A 7.42 ct light bluish green specimen (figure 1) submitted to the New York lab for a colored diamond identification and origin report was identified as a synthetic moissanite crystal carved to resemble a natural diamond rough. Since synthetic moissanite resembles diamond at a glance and has a similar specific gravity and “heft,” it could easily be mistaken for natural diamond. The sample was first identified as synthetic moissanite using Fourier-transform infrared (FTIR) spectroscopy (figure 2). The resulting data displayed a distinctive moissanite spectrum, with peaks occurring at 2079, 2297, and 2392 cm–1 (A.M. Hofmeister et al., “Optical constants of silicon carbide for astrophysical applications,” Astrophysical Journal, Vol. 696, No. 2, 2009, pp. 1502–1516). This finding was confirmed with an analysis of the Raman spectrum, which showed strong 767, 788, and 798 cm–1 peaks, also consistent with synthetic moissanite (figure 3). Although natural moissanite does exist, crystals are tiny and fragmented. Gem-quality specimens have not yet been found (Summer 2014 Gem News International, pp. 160–161).

Figure 2. The peaks at 2079, 2297, and 2392 cm–1 displayed in this FTIR spectrum are consistent with synthetic moissanite.

Figure 3. Raman spectroscopy confirmed the identification as synthetic moissanite, with peaks at 767, 788, and 798 cm–1. (The sharp peak at 970 cm–1 suggests a hexagonal 6H type of silicon carbide.)
The turbid and stained 7.42 ct synthetic moissanite was shaped into a slightly rounded octahedron with prominent stepped edges. Octahedra belong to the cubic crystal class; both natural and synthetic SiC belong to the trigonal class and always display hexagonal prismatic to tabular forms. It was concluded that the synthetic moissanite rough had been carved into an octahedron, and that the detailing of the stepped edges and coarse textures were specifically chosen to imitate the appearance of a natural diamond octahedron that had been partially resorbed by kimberlitic magma, such as the natural diamond in figure 4. Although sharp and well-formed diamond octahedra are occasionally found preserved in mantle rocks entrained in kimberlitic eruptions, the vast majority of natural diamond crystals are exposed to corrosive kimberlitic fluids during their ascent through the cratonic mantle and display a wide variety of resorption textures (R. Tappert and M.C. Tappert, Diamonds in Nature: A Guide to Rough Diamonds, 2011, Springer Verlag, Heidelberg, Germany).

Figure 4. Exposure to kimberlitic fluids rich in O2 and H2O creates varied shapes and textures in natural diamond octahedra. This natural green diamond, known as the “Matryoshka” (Spring 2020 Lab Notes, pp. 127–129) has resorbed points and edges as well as trigonal etching on the {111} faces. Photo by Jian Xin (Jae) Liao.
This investigation is a reminder to take caution when identifying gemstones, as intentional material processing steps such as these may be used to deceive consumers and could damage the integrity of the gem trade. @chapter:32


Publication Year: - Title: Bench Tip #10: Use Vector Tightening to Overcome Metal Memory in Prongs Abstract: Vector tightening

Gemstones that become loose can cause damage to both the gem and the setting. A regular inspection of jewelry can catch this problem in its early stages, before too much damage is done. Vector tightening prong-set stones is a quick, safe, and effective way to secure gemstones.

We will use a four-prong head with a round brilliant-cut stone as an example. If you try to tighten the stone by simply pushing the prongs in toward the center of the stone -- seemingly the most direct way -- it probably won’t be secure. That’s because the “memory” of the metal in the prong will cause it to spring back to its original position, and the stone will still be loose. In vector tightening, you move the prongs in two different directions (vectors) to overcome the metal memory.  The prongs end up closer to the center of the stone, and are able to hold it tightly. You can use flat or chain-nose pliers to vector tighten, but parallel-jaw pliers work best.

Imagine the setting in a fixed position to help you better visualize the procedure; however, at the bench you would turn the setting around to get the best leverage. This way, the prongs being adjusted won’t get mixed up.

First, gently squeeze the two prongs on the right side (upper and lower right) toward each other. Next, do the same thing with the prongs on the left side. As you squeeze the prongs toward each other, they will “slide” around the contour of the stone. Don’t squeeze too hard -- just reduce the distance between the side prongs by roughly one-third.

At this point, the space between the top two prongs and the bottom two prongs should appear too large, and the space between the two prongs on the right and left sides should appear too small.

Next, squeeze the top two prongs (upper left and upper right) toward each other so they end up with what looks like the original spacing. Repeat with the bottom prongs. The gemstone is now tight, with the prongs evenly spaced around it.

The movement of the prongs in two directions, first toward the sides and then toward the top and bottom, provides tension in the prongs so they are somewhat spring-loaded and hold on to the gemstone securely. @chapter:28


Publication Year: 2013 Title: Zircon and Geikielite from Sri Lanka with Artificial Stars Abstract: Two asteriated cabochons acquired in Sri Lanka were identified as natural zircon and geikielite. But the six-rayed star had not been observed in natural star zircons, and the eleven-rayed star of the geikielite was crystallographically “impossible.” Microscopic observation clearly showed both had been created by a fine scratching of the cabochon domes.

										In both cases, the surfaces appeared to have been produced by short parallel scratches. The center of each star was a white spot, and their branches were short, sometimes missing or undulating and hatched. The effect is formed mainly by diffraction at the scratches rather than reflection from needles or hollow tubes, like in natural stones. When the focus of the microscope is lowered some millimeters from above the cabochon surface through below the surface, the star gets finer and is sharpest below the surface, in contrast to natural stars, where the sharpest star seems to hover above the surface.

										The features described above, along with some other characteristics mentioned by Steinbach (2011), allow a safe distinction of scratched star stones from their natural counterparts mostly by simple observation with the naked eye.

Abstracted by Rolf Tatje @chapter:19


Publication Year: - Title: De Beers Raises Prices at April Sight, Basel Business Report Abstract: Mozambique ruby, which rivals Burmese ruby in color, was readily available at Baselworld and helped temper the lofty prices Burmese dealers have been asking in recent years. These small, high-quality clean rubies are from Montepuez, Mozambique. Photo by Vincent Pardieu/GIA

                      De Beers, as expected, boosted prices at its April 1-4 sight, which totaled about $740 million. The increase, averaging 2.5% to 3%, was concentrated in a relatively narrow range of goods ‒ mainly those that would polish out to half- or one- carat gems‒ that were in high demand.

The price increase was expected given concerns in the past two months that the rough market was “overheating” and once again falling into speculative buying. Polished prices also have edged up a few percentage points from January, but are still lagging behind rough increases, which have again squeezed profits.

The activity in the rough market has prompted the industry’s leading lenders to restate the new credit policies they announced last fall: they will provide funding for 70% of the value of rough purchases, not 100%, to dampen speculative buying. As the results of recent tender sales indicate, however, a number of companies remain willing to bid up rough prices even with reduced credit.

Unlike last year, sightholders did not defer any purchases at this sight. One reason is that the most of the rough could still bring a small profit after polishing. Another is that De Beers begins its selection process for the next sight period in June and clients may want to make a favorable impression.

Most diamond traders believe the rough market will be quiet for the next several months to see how the year shapes up.

BASEL REPORT: Business was subdued overall at the recently concluded Baselworld (March 26-April 3). Sales in the gemstone hall were slightly up from last year, but buyers generally passed on many of the extreme high end pieces: colorless diamonds over 10 carats in high colors and clarities and larger pink and blue fancies.

Large colorless diamonds were priced 15% to 20% higher than last year and fancy colors were up 20% - 30%, but these prices apparently went beyond the limit for many well-heeled buyers. Large fancy yellow diamonds were in abundance at the show, but dealers reported that demand was much weaker than in the past.

What did sell were colorless diamonds in the 3 carat to 5 carat range, which were up about 10% in price from last year. Buyers felt these goods were moving well in consumer markets in the U.S. and Asia. China demand has slowed considerably, but is still reasonably healthy, while the U.S. is showing signs of a much better year.

In colored stones, Mozambique ruby, which rivals Burmese ruby in color, was quite abundant in high colors. This has helped temper the lofty prices dealers of Burmese material were asking in recent years.

Demand for no-heat sapphire remained strong. That “anti-treatment” sentiment has spread to emeralds, with a number of dealers offering “no-oil” goods. Prices for untreated top goods, with the exception of ruby, were 20% to 30% higher than last year, but, as with diamonds, buyers were very selective.

Indeed, dealers and buyers alike said that prices of colored stones, especially the higher qualities, have risen beyond what can be justified by demand, so they are limiting buying to only what they can immediately sell. “No one wants to be caught with lots of goods in a price correction,” one exhibitor said.

This year, two additional shows opened to capitalize on the overflow from Baselworld.

The Rapaport Diamond Show, held near the main rail station in Basel, featured nearly 70 exhibitors, including a delegation from the New York Diamond Dealers Club. Business at the three-day show appeared to be slow, though some reported a pickup in traffic on the final day.

The Jewellery & Gem Fair-Europe, in Freiburg, Germany (about 50 miles from Basel), was also new, with approximately 200 exhibitors from around the world. The organizer, UBM Asia, which runs the Hong Kong shows, branded it as a sourcing show (in contrast to Baselworld as a branded merchandise show). Accordingly, most of the exhibitors and products were aimed at the middle- and lower-priced markets. The show was well-attended for the first day, though some buyers complained about the transportation to and from Baselworld.

A number of exhibitors at Baselworld said they hope the Freiburg show succeeds so they can jump the costly ship in Basel and move into this show, for one-tenth to one-eighth of the cost.

AUCTIONS: Cartier helped set a price record for one of its signature pieces at its April 9 Hong Kong sale. The jewelry house paid $27.4 million for the Hutton-Mdivani jadeite bead necklace; the highest price ever paid for a piece of jadeite jewelry at auction.

The necklace, formerly owned by Woolworth heiress Barbara Hutton who died in 1979, features 27 “highly translucent green jadeite beads” ranging from 15.4 mm to 19.2 mm in diameter.

In addition, a 29.62 carat Burmese ruby set by Cartier, sold for $7.3 million, the highest price ever paid for a ruby at auction. @chapter:30


Publication Year: 2001 Title: Jeremejevite: A Gemological Update Abstract: The submission of a large (4.54 ct) jeremejevite of an unusual—yellow—color to the AGTA Gemological Testing Center prompted a search of the available gemological literature and a detailed examination of five additional samples to learn more about this rare gemstone. It was found that the information in some English-language texts was either confusing or contributed little to our gemological knowledge. The authors confirm the available standard gemological properties and add pertinent data for the UV-visible, infrared, and Raman spectra, as well as for trace elements measured by EDXRF. @chapter:2


Publication Year: - Title: Moonstone Description Abstract: The beautiful shimmer of light that's characteristic of moonstone is apparent even in its rough form. This special property is maximized by a quality cut. - David Humphrey

                      Moonstone’s delicate beauty and its long-established heritage make it perhaps the most familiar gem-quality member of the feldspar group.

Feldspars are the most widespread minerals in the earth’s crust, as well as some of the most diverse. You can pick up a rock anywhere in the world, and you’ll probably find that it contains a mineral or two from the feldspar group.

	Blue sheen against a colorless background is a prized moonstones combination. This
	suite of finely crafted moonstones is arranged for a designer ensemble.
	- Courtesy Temple Trading Company
Moonstone is a variety of the feldspar-group mineral orthoclase. It’s composed of two feldspar minerals, orthoclase and albite. At first, the two minerals are intermingled. Then, as the newly formed mineral cools, the intergrown orthoclase and albite separate into stacked, alternating layers.

When light falls between these thin, flat layers, it scatters in many directions, producing the phenomenon called adularescence. Adularescence is the light that appears to billow across a gemstone, giving its surface a glowing appearance.

Perhaps the most captivating aspect of adularescence is its appearance of motion. The misty light seems to roll across the gem’s surface as you change the viewing angle.

Other feldspar minerals can also show adularescence. One is a labradorite feldspar found mainly in Labrador, Canada. Another labradorite—found in Madagascar—has a multicolored adularescence over a light bodycolor. It’s known in the trade as rainbow moonstone, despite the fact that it’s actually a variety of labradorite rather than orthoclase.

	A variety of labradorite is sometimes called rainbow moonstone.
Sanidine is another feldspar mineral that can include adularescent gems called moonstones. To be called moonstone, a mineral’s actual identity is not as important as the beauty of its adularescence. @chapter:6


Publication Year: 2024 Title: Historical Relics Repurposed into Jewelry Abstract: Figure 1. An 18K yellow gold and blackened sterling silver shagreen wide cuff bracelet, pendant, earrings, and ring set with antique mother-of-pearl gaming counters. Courtesy of Sarosi by Timeless Gems.
One theme that emerged at the AGTA, GJX, and Pueblo shows was the repurposing of historical artifacts to produce new jewelry items. We saw the incorporation of Chinese, Greek, Viking, and medieval European artifacts into various jewelry pieces at all three shows. Many attendees were drawn to the idea of having a connection to the past in a wearable form.
At GJX, Sarosi by Timeless Gems (Los Angeles) exhibited eye-catching carved mother-of-pearl jewelry (figure 1). While the sheer beauty of the pieces initially caught the authors’ attention, the craftsmanship and story behind them enabled this collection to stand out among a sea of designs. At the center of all the pieces in the collection were hand-engraved mother-of-pearl Chinese gaming counters, once used like modern-day gambling chips. The eighteenth-century counters were commissioned by British royalty and nobility during the Qing Dynasty. Most were engraved on one side with family crests or monograms, with the reverse side illustrating some aspect of Chinese life. The counters were surrounded by a combination of 18K yellow gold, polished sterling silver, and blackened sterling silver, handcrafted by jewelers in Los Angeles to evoke traditional Chinese architecture.

Figure 2. Three ancient artifacts repurposed by Zaffiro. Top left: Medieval silver-gilt strap end from the thirteenth to fifteenth century, set in granulated 22K yellow gold with a 0.07 ct red spinel. Center: Gilded bronze medieval mount from the twelfth to fourteenth century, set in 22K granulated and 18K yellow gold with 0.15 carats of tsavorite garnet and an 11.5 × 14.0 mm black Tahitian pearl. Bottom right: Gilded bronze belt mount from the tenth to twelfth century, set in granulated 22K yellow gold with a 0.13 ct blue sapphire. Photo by Robert Weldon; courtesy of Zaffiro.
In the AGTA designer showroom, Zaffiro (Walla Walla, Washington) devoted a section of their case to their artifact collection, comprising sixth- to fifteenth-century Viking, Anglo-Saxon, and European medieval relics that they incorporated into jewelry (figure 2). These one-of-a-kind pendants integrate actual buried treasure purchased from a reputable auction house in the UK. Zaffiro founders Jack and Elizabeth Gualtieri explained that they like to use items from before the advent of the printing press. Many of the antiquities, originally used to decorate items such as belts, clothing, and horse tack, have retained their original gilding. The Gualtieris set the artifacts in 22K gold frames or rivets and decorate with granulation, sometimes accenting the pieces with colored stones. The appeal of these pieces is in the stories that they tell.
Back at the GJX show, Shans Premier (New York City) offered a large selection of antiquities, including coins in addition to colored stones and jewelry. This multi-generational business has been dealing in antiquities for more than 100 years and in the U.S. for about 40 years. This was their thirtieth year in Tucson. They typically sell more gemstones at U.S. shows, but in Tucson they have a strong following for their antiquities.

Figure 3. A silver Greek Athenian owl tetradrachm from the fifth century BCE weighing approximately 17.2 g with an approximate diameter of 24 mm set in an 18K yellow gold pendant, which cleverly allows the rotation of this coin to face upward on both sides even though the two sides are not stamped in the same orientation. The left image shows the coin obverse with a profile of Athena, and the right image shows the coin tail featuring her patron animal, the owl, which was also a symbol of ancient Athens. Photos by Jennifer Stone-Sundberg; courtesy of Shans Premier.
Sason Shan described a particularly intriguing pendant incorporating one of the most circulated coins from the height of classical Greek civilization: the silver Athenian owl tetradrachm (figure 3). This surprisingly heavy coin was used throughout the ancient world around the time of the Peloponnesian War. Greece minted enormous quantities of these coins using silver from Laurion. Worth several days’ wages, they were too valuable for basic transactions (R.A. Augustin, “Ancient coins – The most famous coin of antiquity – The Athenian owl,” Coin Week, 2022, accessed February 10, 2024, https://coinweek.com/ancient-coins-famous-coin-antiquity/).
With sustainability at the forefront of many consumers’ minds, these upcycled designs extend the life of antiquities, allowing them to be displayed for many years to come. @chapter:21


Publication Year: 1995 Title: Summer 1995 G&G Lab Notes Abstract: Azurite and Antlerite Rock
Diamond with Strain Phantom
Treated-Color Pink Diamond
Unusual Diamond Crystal
Synthetic Diamond Suite
Jadeite Jade with Misleading Inclusions
Omphacite Rock Carving
Cultured Pearl with a Damaged Nucleus
Dyed Quartzite Imitating Jade
Synthetic Ruby with Diffusion-Induced "Fingerprint" Inclusions and Asterism
Cat's-Eye Sapphire
Color-Change Synthetic Sapphire with Twin Lamellae

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:32


Publication Year: 2014 Title: Jewelry Shanghai 2014 Abstract: Figure 1. Top-quality stones, including purple and green jade, were offered at Jewelry Shanghai 2014. Photo by Jennifer Stone-Sundberg.

Organized by the Gems & Jewelry Association of China, Jewelry Shanghai 2014 took place May 8–12 at the Shanghai World Expo Exhibition & Convention Center. The two exposition halls held over 1,000 vendors representing more than 22 countries in 4,200 square meters of exhibitor space. A wide variety was offered, including exceptional examples of tourmaline, jade (figure 1), and ruby, as well as phenomenal stones such as cat’s-eye chrysoberyl and star sapphire. Additionally, superb craftsmanship was on display in the form of fine jade and quartz carvings (figure 2), gold work, and cloisonné enameling. This year saw the addition of top-level fossil, mineral, and gem collector specimens. Other popular items for sale were amber, turquoise, and moonstone.

Figure 2. This clear quartz carving seen at the Shanghai show demonstrates the exceptional craftsmanship sought by Chinese collectors. Photo by Jennifer Stone-Sundberg.
The show featured lectures on topics such as Chinese jade carving, diamond, and Burmese rubies. As Shanghai is China’s diamond import center, the Shanghai Diamond Exchange (which handles every diamond imported into the country) and the Hoge Raad voor Diamant (HRD) were present. Several other gem- and jewelry-related agencies, including the Shanghai Gold Exchange and the International Gemological Institute (IGI), also attended. Mainland China posted jewelry retail sales of 295.9 billion yuan (approximately US$47 billion) in 2013 (http://www.stats.gov.cn/tjsj/zxfb/201401/t20140120_502082.html), and this show certainly indicated the quality and diversity of items the Chinese gem and jewelry market demands today. @chapter:33


Publication Year: - Title: Patrick Mohs Jewelry, 2013 JCK Rising Star Abstract: View Gallery

Background

	We are Patrick Mohs Jewelry – husband and wife jewelry designers and creators, Patrick Nelson and Mary Kay Mohs. We both grew up in small towns in Minnesota and studied at GIA in Carlsbad, but didn’t cross paths until a few years later. We met in 2005, happy to find out we had so much in common, especially our love for jewelry, gems and design.

	Patrick grew up in his mother’s jewelry store, so he had a fascination with jewelry from a young age.  Mary Kay always admired her mother’s beautiful jewelry and loved learning about rocks and gemstones and how they were formed in the earth. She knew that it was something that she wanted to be a part of.

	Patrick earned his Graduate Gemologist and Graduate Jeweler diplomas in 2000; Mary Kay earned her Graduate Gemologist in 2004.

	We have been married since 2006 and have been designing and making jewelry together ever since. Our studio is in Wayzata, Minnesota, where we bring all of our jewelry to life – from pencil and paper to metal and gemstones.

The Design Process

	It is a constantly evolving tug of war! It all starts with a concept, often taken from nature, then multiple sketches and many variations on paper. From there it’s back and forth between us until we settle on the final design to bring to life in our studio. We continue to make changes until it gets the feel we have in our minds. It has to be just right for both of us – this is our art.

	The look and feel of our jewelry is natural in its flowing lines and movement. Waves are a central theme we are working on. Other themes are natural shapes like volcanos, flowers and snow drifts, along with lakes (we are from Minnesota after all!).

	We are trying to say “explore” with our jewelry, in the hopes of making each piece striking and captivating. We see each design as an adventure we are sharing together. We want to create pieces that make people wonder and make the wearer feel special.

Favorite Gemstones and Metals

	One of our favorite gems is the golden South Sea pearl, which we find to be warm, delightful and unexpected -- especially in contrast to diamonds. We are always on the hunt for unique gemstones – such as Koroit opal, tsavorite, chrysoprase, purple sapphire, kunzite, gem silica – and enjoy contrasting them with another vivid color to bring a piece to life. Color brings a design to life!

	The metal we use the most is 18K yellow gold. We love the richness of its color and the way it contrasts with and highlights many gemstones. We also enjoy exploring with platinum and palladium.

	You can only imagine the “discussions” we’ve had about selecting gemstones since we are business partners, jewelry designers, married and both Graduate Gemologists!

Motivation

	We’re doing what we love and in turn, creating art.  We love having the freedom to challenge what might be the norm, explore what might be possible, and bring to life a vision. Every piece truly is an adventure.

	Mary Kay and Patrick Mohs. Photo provided by Patrick Mohs Jewelry. @chapter:16


Publication Year: 1982 Title: Tugtupite: A Gemstone from Greenland Abstract: The red variety of the mineral tugtupite, a rare silicate closely related to sodalite, has been used as a gemstone since 1965. This article presents the history of the mineral and details of its mineralogy and gemology. A recently discovered light blue variety of tugtupite is also described. Thus far, tugtupite has been found in only two localities: (1) Lovozero, Kola Peninsula, U.S.S.R., where it occurs as very small grains; and (2) Ilimaussaq, South Greenland, where it has been located at several places within the Ilimaussaq intrusion. Gem-quality tugtupite has come almost exclusively from one occurrence, a set of hydrothermal albite veins from the Kvanefjeld plateau in the northwestern corner of the Ilimaussaq intrusion. @chapter:0


Publication Year: 2023 Title: Heliodor with a Large Schorl Inclusion Abstract: Morphological features of the tourmaline crystal included in the heliodor are visible; striations and triangular growth marks are present. A band of fluid inclusions is visible near the tip of the schorl tourmaline. Photomicrograph by Rhiana Elizabeth Henry; field of view 2.90 mm. Gift of Mark Mauthner, GIA Museum no. 37772.
An 8.33 ct long rectangular heliodor, the yellow variety of beryl (ideally Be3Al2Si6O18), was examined by the author. It was reportedly from the Zelatoya Vada mine in Murgab, Tajikistan; however, it was likely from Pakistan (J.S. White, “Let’s get it right: Tajikistan heliodor,” Rocks and Minerals, Vol. 80, No. 4, 2005, pp. 285–286). The heliodor had a large schorl tourmaline inclusion prominently under the table facet (see above) and a small schorl tourmaline near one corner. A thin band of fine fluid inclusions ran parallel to the length of the stone adjacent to the tourmaline. The stone was clearly cut to highlight the interesting inclusion rather than hide or remove it; aside from the two tourmaline inclusions and the thin band of fluids, the beryl had high clarity.
Both the heliodor and the tourmaline were analyzed by Raman spectroscopy and laser ablation–inductively coupled plasma–mass spectrometry (LA-ICP-MS) to better understand the structure and chemistry of the minerals. Analyses were conducted on the girdle of the heliodor and on the back end of the tourmaline inclusion where it intersected a pavilion facet. The heliodor had low-moderate water bound in its structural channels, as determined qualitatively by Raman spectroscopy, which is expected for heliodor with low sodium content (R.E. Henry et al., “Crystal-chemical observations and the relation between sodium and H2O in different beryl varieties,” Canadian Mineralogist, Vol. 60, No. 4, 2022, pp. 625–675). The heliodor fit well within the expected chemistry; it had low overall cation substitutions, with minor or trace iron, magnesium, lithium, sodium, and cesium content. The tourmaline was confirmed to be schorl dominant due to its predominant sodium and iron content; however, due to high vacancy at the X structural site, the tourmaline had a high foitite component (D.J. Henry et al., “Nomenclature of the tourmaline-supergroup minerals,” American Mineralogist, Vol. 96, 2011, pp. 895–913).
After data collection for research, this stone will be used in the GIA GemKids program as an educational piece for young students at the Carlsbad campus. It will represent the heliodor variety of beryl, showing fascinating inclusions as well as evidence of LA-ICP-MS laser pits on the girdle of the stone (not shown in the photomicrograph). @chapter:13


Publication Year: 1992 Title: Natural-Color Nonconductive Gray-to-Blue Diamonds Abstract: Two new categories of gray-to-blue diamonds are described. First, two type IIb blue crystals with what appears to be a type IIa outer skin were not electrically conductive in the rough, but conducted electricity once faceted. Second, some non-electrically conductive gray-to-grayish blue diamonds from the Argyle mine, Australia, were determined to be type Ia and to contain unusually high amounts of hydrogen. This latter type of coloration, not previously reported for diamonds, may be due to hydrogen-related defects in the crystal structure. @chapter:11


Publication Year: 2008 Title: The Color Durability of “Chocolate Pearls” by Ballerina Pearl Co. Abstract: Treated-color brown Tahitian cultured pearls, known in the trade as “Chocolate Pearls,” have become increasingly prevalent in the market. As a result, it is important that the durability of the color treatment is well understood. Seven Chocolate Pearls supplied by Ballerina Pearl Co. and 12 untreated Tahitian cultured pearls (for comparison) were exposed to conditions of consumer care and wear—heat, household chemicals, daylight, and some typical cosmetics—to determine their effects on the color. The results were similar for both groups: They did not change color when exposed to daylight, cosmetics, and some chemicals; subtle changes were noticed after exposure to heat; and more significant changes were observed when the samples were exposed to chemically reactive household cleaning solutions. @chapter:40


Publication Year: - Title: CVD Diamond Over 34 Carats Examined in GIA’s Hong Kong Laboratory Abstract: Figure 1. This 34.59 ct CVD-grown diamond (24.94 × 13.95 × 9.39 mm), produced by Ethereal Green Diamond in India, is the largest GIA has tested. Photo by Johnny (Chak Wan) Leung.
Chemical vapor deposition (CVD) growth technology has advanced significantly over the last two decades. In this study, we report on the largest CVD gem diamond GIA has encountered, recently tested in the Hong Kong laboratory. This emerald-cut diamond weighed 34.59 ct, measuring 24.94 × 13.95 × 9.39 mm (figure 1), produced by Ethereal Green Diamond in India. It had G color and VS2 clarity. Small black graphite inclusions were found. Some stood alone inside the body, while others formed clusters of clouds located between growth layers. Microscopic observation showed a weak oily or wavy graining looking through the table facet, a feature sometimes seen in CVD gem diamonds. It tends to appear more prominent in CVD diamonds with high amounts of strain and a strong birefringence pattern when viewed through crossed polarizers (figure 2).

Figure 2. A high amount of strain and a strong birefringence pattern were observed using crossed polarizers. Photomicrograph by Ka Wing Tam; field of view 15.92 mm.

Figure 3. Left: The PL spectrum with 514 nm laser excitation under liquid nitrogen temperature showed features of treated CVD diamond. Right: The PL spectrum with 457 nm laser excitation under liquid nitrogen temperature recorded a strong H3 defect and a negligible 467.6 nm center.
Infrared absorption spectroscopy revealed no absorption related to nitrogen, which is consistent with type IIa diamond. However, a weak absorption related to boron (an absorption peak at ~2800 cm–1) was detected, corresponding to around 2 ppb of boron impurity. This trace amount of boron was very likely incorporated as contamination during diamond growth. There are different opinions on whether this trace contamination should be considered in diamond classification. Photoluminescence (PL) spectroscopy was performed at liquid nitrogen temperature (–196°C) with several laser excitations (figure 3). In addition to strong emissions from NV0 and NV– centers at 575 nm and 637 nm, respectively, moderately strong doublet emissions from SiV– at 736.6 and 736.9 nm were recorded. A weak emission at 946.4 nm, possibly from the SiV0 defect, was also observed. Other important emission features included a strong emission from the H3 defect at 503.2 nm and a weak emission band with peaks at 566.0, 566.7, and 567.7 nm. Emissions at 596/597 and 467.6 nm, which are common in as-grown CVD diamonds, were reduced by high-temperature treatment. These observations and spectroscopic features confirmed that this CVD diamond was annealed under high pressure and high temperature (HPHT) to improve its color appearance. In contrast, no post-growth color treatment was applied to the 16.41 ct CVD lab-grown diamond tested a year earlier in the New York laboratory (W. Wang et al., “New record size for CVD laboratory-grown diamond,” GIA Research News, January 27, 2022).

Figure 4. DiamondView imaging revealed at least eight growth steps. Image by Ka Wing Tam.
DiamondView fluorescence imaging showed green and blue colors with a banded pattern. Typical CVD growth striations were clearly visible (figure 4). Green fluorescence was from the H3 defect, produced during HPHT annealing. This banded structure revealed at least eight growth steps to achieve sufficient depth for this large diamond. Additionally, strong blue phosphorescence with similar banding was detected in the DiamondView.

This very large CVD diamond represents a milestone in CVD growth. Mined diamonds with similar size and quality are very rare. We will continue monitoring developments in gem diamond growth technology to ensure all diamonds are properly identified in GIA laboratories. @chapter:15


Publication Year: 2005 Title: Characterization and Grading of Natural-Color Yellow Diamonds Abstract: To better understand the yellow diamonds currently in the marketplace, as well as identify possible changes in their trends seen over a five-year period, researchers at the GIA Gem Laboratory analyzed gemological data collected on more than 24,000 natural-color yellow diamonds examined in the calendar years 1998 and 2003. These data included color grade, type of cut, clarity grade, weight, ultraviolet fluorescence, and UV-visible and infrared spectra. Among natural-color colored diamonds, those with a yellow hue are some of the most abundant; even so, they are much less common than the colorless to light yellow diamonds associated with GIA’s D-to-Z color grading scale. Since the yellow color is a continuation of the gradation of color associated with the D-to-Z scale, there can be misconceptions about the color grading, which involves different procedures from those used for D-to-Z grading. The grading and appearance aspects, as well as other characteristics of yellow diamonds, are discussed to clarify these differences. The authors have also identified five subgroups of type I yellow diamonds, which (with some overlap) are characterized by representative spectra and color appearances. @chapter:31


Publication Year: 2015 Title: A Jadeite Bangle Simulant: Hydrogrossular Garnet Abstract: Figure 1. The photo on the left shows a jadeite jade bangle. The photo on the right shows two hydrogrossular garnet bangles that were claimed to be jadeite. Photos by Lai Tai-An Gem Lab.

Jadeite, a material significant within Chinese culture, is often submitted to the Lai Tai-An Gem Laboratory for identification.

Historically, the name “jade” has been applied to either nephrite or jadeite. Nephrite has been used for adornment and ornamentation for thousands of years in China, and nephrite objects from many dynasties are found in museums, auctions, and antique shops around the world. While newer to the Chinese market, jadeite jade is becoming increasingly important. Jadeite bangles (figure 1, left) require more rough than cabochons or fashioned stones, resulting in a larger amount of waste. Consequently, the value placed on good-quality pieces is higher, and jadeite bangles with fine textures and brilliant colors continue to set new records in auction houses.

We recently received two similar-looking bangles (figure 1, right) for identification. The client claimed the pieces were jadeite, but we determined them to be hydrogrossular garnet. This jadeite simulant is rarely seen in bangle form; it is more likely encountered as carvings or cabochons. In this particular case, the similarity to jadeite was extremely convincing.

The two translucent, light to strongly saturated green and white hydrogrossular garnet bangles weighed 339.55 ct and 400.03 ct, and measured 75 × 11 mm and 77 × 12 mm, respectively. Both exhibited a spot refractive index of 1.72, specific gravities of 3.42/3.45, inert reaction to both short-wave and long-wave UV, and a light pink reaction through the Chelsea color filter. The absorption spectrum showed a cutoff below 460 nm, and the material exhibited black pepper-like inclusions (figure 2); these characteristics suggest that the color of the garnet is natural.

Figure 2. These hydrogrossular garnet bangles exhibit the black pepper-like inclusions that are sometimes found in this material. Photo by Lai Tai-An Gem Lab; field of view 8.20 mm.
The identification was confirmed by FTIR and Raman analysis. Peaks at 954, 866, 843, 616, 560, 488, and 458 cm–1 in the infrared spectra (figure 3), and peaks at 367, 408, 544, 823, 877, 1489, and 1543 cm–1 (figure 4) in the Raman spectrum are indicative of hydrogrossular garnet. The similarity to jadeite could lead to a costly error, so those in the trade must be aware of such imitations.

Figure 3. FTIR spectra reveal the difference between jadeite jade (red line, peaks at 1175,
1075, 1051, 957, 855, 745, 666, 589, 534, 476, and 435 cm–1) and hydrogrossular garnet
(blue line, peaks at 954, 866, 843, 616, 560, 488, and 458 cm–1).

Figure 4. Raman analysis of one of the client’s bangles, using a near-infrared wavelength
of 785 nm, confirms its hydrogrossular garnet identity. @chapter:37


Publication Year: 1989 Title: "Opalite": Plastic Imitation Opal with True Play-Of-Color Abstract: A plastic imitation opal that shows true play-of-color was advertised as "new" and offered for sale under the trade name "Opalite" at the Gem and Lapidary Dealers Association (GLDA) Tucson show in February 1988. Subsequent gemological testing proved that this material was virtually identical to the plastic imitation opal previously described in the literature that was known to be manufactured in Japan. It is now being marketed worldwide under a new name. @chapter:39


Publication Year: 2019 Title: Gem Legacy: A Nonprofit for East African Communities Abstract: Figure 1. Sourcing gem rough from East Africa led Roger Dery to seek ways to benefit the communities. These pink and green tourmalines are from the Democratic Republic of the Congo. Photo by Rachel Dery.
The launch party for Gem Legacy, a nonprofit organization benefiting East African mining communities, was held in Tucson on February 8. This author sat down with founder Roger Dery (Roger Dery Gem Design, Royal Oak, Michigan) to discuss the organization’s mission and projects.

	Gem Legacy: A nonprofit for East African communities

Dery entered the trade in 1981, supplying gems from Brazil, India, and East African countries to jewelry stores in the Midwest before becoming a cutter. He took his first trip to Africa in 2008, visiting a dozen mines in Madagascar over 17 days and purchasing rough from the communities (see figure 1). Over the course of several more trips, also visiting mines and gem dealers in Tanzania and Kenya, Dery realized that he did not just want to purchase goods and leave, nor did he want to conflict with local customs. Through 2017, he and his fellow travelers brought food to mining villages to build trust and contribute to each community.

Figure 2. Through the work of Gem Legacy, orphans in the Mwatate Children’s Home in Mwatate, Kenya, had their school fees covered. Photo by Rachel Dery.
After consulting with his wife and daughter about the best way to contribute to these communities, in 2018 Dery formed Gem Legacy, a nonprofit that supports specific projects in the areas of education, vocational training, and entrepreneurship. Gem Legacy has provided three sessions of gemological training in Malawi (in conjunction with the country’s Ministry of Mines), paid school fees for orphans in Malawi (figure 2), provided beds to orphaned children in Kenya, and delivered equipment to women miners in southern Kenya. They are now raising funds to update the machines at Tanzania’s Arusha Gem Faceting School.
There are many ways to give through Gem Legacy. Retailers may choose to stock souvenirs made in communities that benefit from the nonprofit and donate all proceeds back to the communities. Other options include event hosting and donating a percentage from sales of a given collection. Gem Legacy also encourages pajama, toy, and book drives; grassroots fundraising through platforms such as GoFundMe; and direct donations to the nonprofit itself.
For more on Gem Legacy, go to https://www.gemlegacy.org. @chapter:28


Publication Year: - Title: Taming Zimbabwe’s Diamond Production Abstract: With the EU’s removal of sanctions against Zimbabwean diamonds, rough stones from the controversial Marange deposit are being auctioned in Antwerp. These diamonds often have a greenish tint. Photo by Mike Breeding and Wuyi Wang.

                      In mid-December 2013, some 280,000 carats of rough diamonds from Zimbabwe’s Marange deposit were auctioned off in Antwerp through the auspices of the Antwerp World Diamond Center (AWDC).

This sale was a trial run, consisting of mostly low-end material, but it represented a major step in efforts to transform what had been a wild card in the world diamond market—in terms of accountability, pricing and supply—into an orderly flow of rough to mainstream diamond manufacturers and dealers. Until this auction, all Marange rough had been sold through Zimbabwe’s capital city of Harare, with little or no vetting of buyers or price transparency. According to Mark Van Bockstael, who chairs the Kimberley Process Working Group of Diamond Experts, the December auction was the first step in a long-term movement to eventually route most or all Marange rough sales through Antwerp. This sale was made possible by the European Union’s Sept. 24 decision to remove all sanctions against diamonds from Zimbabwe.

Van Bockstael, who is also an executive of the AWDC, has spent considerable time on the ground in Zimbabwe. From November 2011 to December 2012, he was one of two official monitors working toward establishing Marange’s compliance with the KP.

	Mark Van Bockstael, chairman of the Kimberley Process Working Group of Diamond Experts, spent two years bringing Zimbabwe’s Marange operations into compliance with Kimberley Process standards. Photo by Russell Shor.
The auction drew criticism from many quarters, including activist groups and some members of the diamond industry who claimed the sale aided a repressive regime which routinely violates human rights. Yet Van Bockstael says the days of forced labor and uncontrolled diamond digging are long over. All seven mining concessions are secured and professionally run and mechanized, he explains, stressing that the Kimberley Process Certification Scheme (KPCS) has instituted three major steps to make certain Marange’s mining operations conform to standard.

“First, we have ensured that all of the diamond production is accounted for,” he says, pointing to a satellite map of the Marange area mounted on the wall of his Antwerp office. “We can track production via satellite imaging. We know the grade (carats per ton of ore) of each concession, and through satellites we can see how much material is extracted each month. We check this information against company ledgers to verify their reporting.

“Second, all production data is matched against the exports listed on Kimberley Process certificates to ensure it is all sold legitimately.

“Third, we monitor the security of the area. All unlicensed mining is illegal, and we made sure local officials enforce this law,” he notes, adding that incidents of illegal artisanal mining have fallen to near zero in the past two years. All of the mining concessions are enclosed, with double fencing around the actual mining areas and additional security features at the processing plants to minimize unauthorized production.

“An additional fourth step is unrelated to the KPCS, but is a result of moving the rough diamond sales to Antwerp, which puts them under strict European Union guidelines regarding finance and transparency.”

The controversy over Marange erupted in 2007–2008 after thousands of artisanal diggers migrated there to work the newly discovered diamond deposit. Forces controlled by the country’s leader, Robert Mugabe, evicted the miners in a brutal campaign in late 2008 that reportedly left 180 dead and hundreds wounded. Following these forced evictions came allegations that Zimbabwe’s government forces continued to commit human rights abuses, including rape and forced labor, against the remaining miners and their families. As a result, the U.S. and the European Union, which had already imposed sanctions on enterprises controlled by Mugabe and his inner circle, banned diamond companies based on their own soil from dealing in Marange diamonds.

The abuses at Marange created a crisis within the Kimberley Process as well. The KPCS was established in 2003 to prevent rebel or terrorist groups from illegally mining and selling diamonds to finance their activities, requiring certificates for all rough diamonds to guarantee they were exported legally. The fact that the officially recognized Zimbabwean government, rather than a rebel group, was charged with the human rights abuses created sharp divisions within the organization, and brought intense criticism from human rights organizations and some governments. The KPCS was portrayed as toothless—or, worse yet, complicit in the country’s disregard for human rights, particularly after its 2011 decision to conditionally approve Marange diamonds for export.

Van Bockstael has heard all of the criticisms, but stresses that the KPCS has gone far beyond its charter to bring order to Marange’s chaotic diamond production.

“They accuse us of doing nothing, but we worked hard for two years to make certain all of the operations were compliant with KPCS standards,” he says, adding that in his time on the ground he did not witness human rights abuses. He also notes that the seven government-approved concession holders “have done their due diligence in regards to water use, ecological and environmental protection. We have monitored their operations so we know they are fully compliant to KPCS standards.”

Van Bockstael does acknowledge there are complaints from NGOs, especially over artisanal mining. “It’s even illegal for people to dig for diamonds—even in their own villages, in their own backyards. They don’t like that, but allowing such digging makes it impossible to account for the production.”

One of the mining companies working the Marange deposit, the Chinese-Zimbabwean venture Anjin, relocated 417 families from its concession. The workers are now complaining they haven’t received the benefits they were promised, but Van Bockstael says it was considered an exemplary move at the time and a model for future relocations, even by local NGOs.

Critics of the KPCS insist that the repressive Mugabe regime benefits from the diamond funds, siphoning off the proceeds to fund the state’s security forces, which continue to engage in human rights abuses. People living in the diamond-producing areas, they add, do not benefit from diamond production in their midst.

Van Bockstael says some critics believe there can only be “satans or saints in the world.” The reality, he stresses, is somewhere in between: that there are huge quantities of diamonds in Zimbabwe, and they will be mined and sold regardless of the circumstances. In this case, he says, the best that can be done is to harness the flow of diamonds from that country and ensure they enter the trade legitimately. Addressing charges that funds are siphoned off, Van Bockstael maintains that “all of the mining companies must provide detailed, transparent accounts of their sales, including taxes and royalties paid to the government. Under Zimbabwe law, mining companies have to pay 15% royalty on the value of diamonds mined, but the investor-friendly laws allow corporate taxes to be deferred until they recoup their capital investment.”

Marange’s 2014 diamond production is expected to reach nearly 17 million carats, valued at $53.10 per carat, the lowest of any major producer except Australia. (The two other mining operations in Zimbabwe, River Ranch and Rio Tinto’s Murowa, were not affected by KPCS sanctions.) According to KPCS figures, a significant percentage of Marange production consists of larger goods up to five carats, but only 8% of the output is of gem quality. An additional 8% is called near-gem or “lower rejections,” meaning that only a small percentage of each rough stone can be polished into a diamond usable in jewelry. The remaining 84% are rejections and bort, the industrial diamonds used primarily as abrasives.

In addition, Marange’s gem-quality diamonds usually trade at a discount, because they often have a slightly greenish tint, even in higher colors. This tint makes them difficult to match in jewelry when using stones from multiple sources. Dealers compare them to rough diamonds from Australia’s Argyle mine, which have a brownish cast and similarly trade at a discount. Despite this, Van Bockstael believes that $53 per carat average price could be improved substantially by moving the sales to Antwerp’s more transparent environment.

	Antwerp’s main diamond trading street, Hoveniersstraat, is the new site for much of the Zimbabwe rough diamond sales. Photo by Russell Shor.
More changes to Marange’s production are anticipated. The deposit is vast, covering more than 400 square miles, but the shallow, easily mined areas are nearly depleted and mining companies will have to dig deeper—much deeper—to extract diamonds. Van Bockstael believes that mining operations will consolidate as production costs rise, particularly because the quality is so low.

Marange, he notes, is technically not an alluvial deposit, nor is it a kimberlite pipe. The diamonds originated from an unknown source and were deposited by seawater into a bowl-shaped bed millions of years ago; they now lie under a conglomerate of rock and soil. The Marange diggings are at the northwest rim of this bowl, where the diamonds can be found under a few meters of overburden. The grade of the rim, or reef, is also very high—about two carats per ton. (By contrast, most diamond mines average about one carat per hundred tons.) About 50 miles to the southeast lies the more recently discovered Chimanimani diamond deposit, which geologists have identified as the opposite rim of this bowl. In between, the bowl deepens to some 3,000 feet.

“First, the companies operating the deposit do not have much experience with deep mining,” says Van Bockstael. “Second, it is much, much more expensive.”

During the same week as the first Marange tender, Anjin Investments Ltd. announced it was laying off 25 percent of its 845-strong workforce because of rising costs and stagnating rough diamond prices. The company attributed the rising costs to the transition to underground mining.

Zimbabwe’s ruler, Robert Mugabe, who will turn 90 this year, was re-elected in July 2013 amid charges of election fraud. Still, Van Bockstael believes Zimbabwe has the means to achieve stability and growth in the future, because there is a well-developed professional class managing a number of enterprises (including the mining sector) and an encouragingly independent judiciary and police force. He warns, however, that old vested interests could still work against making Marange more transparent.

“The sales in Antwerp are encouraging, but they are not a done deal,” he says.

The government claimed the December tender of Marange rough a success. The permanent secretary of mines and mining development, Francis Gudyanga, said the trial tender, attended by 115 buyers, “will allow the government of Zimbabwe to fully optimize a second, larger tender of Marange goods in the future.”

The average price of $38.25 per carat for the low-end parcels was well below the run-of-mine average, but Van Bockstael hopes this figure will increase substantially as goods more representative of the production are offered for sale in the future.

The second Antwerp tender, held Feb. 12–19, consisted of 960,000 run-of-mine from six companies mining the Marange area and realized $70 million, or about $72.90 per carat, substantially above the average price of goods coming from that area. Some 167 companies participated, according to Zimbabwe’s news media. Nevertheless, Secretary Gudyanga stressed that some goods would continue to be tendered in Zimbabwe. @chapter:38