Publication Year: - Title: Retailers, Diamond Trade Still Vying Over Prices Abstract: The octahedron rough weighs 15.98 carats; the faceted diamonds are between 3.00 and 3.50 carats. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA

	The tug-of-war between retailers, diamond miners and manufacturers over prices continues even as the world economy slowly improves.

	A number of diamond price monitoring services reported that diamonds have given up most of the price gains made earlier in the year. Additionally, Blue Nile Chief Financial Officer David Binder, speaking in a news conference announcing first quarter results, said that consumers are resisting paying high prices for polished, making it difficult for diamond manufacturers and wholesalers to pass on their increased costs.

	The pressures on middle-class consumers have been well-reported and have affected retail demand for many products, including jewelry. However, one recent report notes a growing caution among U.S. luxury buyers as well.

	Unity Marketing’s survey of luxury buyers – who have driven the increase in diamond and jewelry buying in the U.S. over the past several years – found that those consumers plan to hold the line on spending, putting more of their discretionary funds into investments and savings.

	Online retailer Blue Nile reported its first quarter sales rose 6.8 percent compared to the previous year, with its strongest business being its core engagement ring pages. However, this is below the average of about 11 percent growth the company has reported in each of the past four years.

	Press reports from China indicate that retail jewelry sales continue to slow from the heady growth of previous years. These year-on-year comparisons of retail results may not accurately reflect the market as last year’s steep drop in the gold price created a buying spree that caused an abnormal spike in sales. However, diamond dealers and manufacturers noted that Chinese retailers have begun trading down on quality to hold the line on prices as consumers there grow more cautious.

AUCTIONS: Consumer reticence does not appear to be having an effect on the extreme top end of the market, as recent jewelry auctions continue to command extreme prices.

	Sales at Christie’s April 19 New York auction totaled $60.6 million. Major items included a pair of GIA-graded round brilliant, D color, Internally Flawless diamonds, a 22.6 carat and 22.31 carat, which brought $8.56 million; and a 40.43 carat, D color, potentially Flawless GIA-graded oval-cut diamond which brought $7.7 million, or nearly $190,000 per carat.

	On April 29, William Doyle Galleries in New York sold a pair of natural drop pearls believed to have been owned by Empress Eugenie of France for a record auction price of $3.3 million. The same day, Sotheby’s New York sold a 28.18 carat Kashmir sapphire for $5.09 million, or $180, 731 per carat, a world record price for such a stone.

	As reported last month, on April 6 in Hong Kong, Sotheby’s sold the jade-bead Hutton-Mdivani necklace for a record $27 million, double its pre-sale estimate and the record auction price for a jadeite jewel. The piece contained 27 “high-translucent” jade beads, ranging from 15.4 to 19.2 mm.

	The week of May 12 will feature two major auctions in Geneva. On May 13, Sotheby’s will offer the 100.09 carat Graff Vivid Yellow Diamond, expected to sell for $15 to $25 million, and the 31.34 carat D, potentially flawless Victory Diamond, which carries a pre-sale estimate of $5 to $8 million.

	On the following day, Christie's will offer a 13.22 carat Fancy Vivid Blue diamond, named “The Blue,” the largest Flawless, Vivid Blue diamond to come up for auction (the 27.64 carat Heart of Eternity is the largest known Fancy Vivid Blue), which it expects to sell for $25 million; and the 5.5 carat Fancy Vivid bluish green The Ocean Dream, the largest vivid blue-green diamond ever to be auctioned. It is expected to bring between $7 and $10 million. @chapter:30


Publication Year: - Title: Rare Books Project Puts Gem and Jewelry History Within Reach Abstract: Digital Transitions’ BC100 is highly specialized equipment enabling GIA technicians to safely digitize rare works such as this text from 1648 by Ulisse Aldrovandi. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA

The feeling of responsibility washing over Sarah Ostrye as she carefully turned the book’s pages was “nerve-wracking,” she admits.

Then again, the manuscript in her hands was no ordinary book, but a 516-year-old copy of Pliny’s “Natural History” – the oldest in GIA’s 64,000-volume collection.

Ostrye, a research librarian and digital archivist for GIA’s Richard T. Liddicoat Gemological Library and Information Center, is helping lead the Institute’s multi-year effort to bring thousands of the rarest, most venerated books in gemology, mineralogy and jewelry from the shelves of the library’s Cartier Rare Book Repository and Archives into easy reach of the global community.

To date, more than 200 historically significant books housed in the library have been digitized and made available for free through the nonprofit digital library Internet Archive. The public is responding: since the project was unveiled in July 2015, there has been a steady increase in monthly book views – from 378 views in July 2015 to 1,922 in September 2016.

That’s encouraging news for Dona Dirlam, director of the GIA library and architect of the digitization project.

“We can better serve the public trust by providing these resources,” she says. “The current and future state of gemology and the jewelry industry relies on having in-depth knowledge of our history – it’s the foundation for understanding the science and business of our industry.”

Dona Dirlam, director of GIA’s Richard T. Liddicoat Gemological Library and Information Center, says that an early group of supporters, including Richard T. Liddicoat, Glenn Nord, Kurt Nassau and Bill Boyajian, believed the Library could become “a world-class center for information” for the gem and jewelry industry. “Now, because we can digitize books from this collection, we’re able to bring these precious resources to the global community,” she says. Photo by Emily Lane/GIA
Access for All
What the project aims to do, in essence, is to make it as easy to enjoy an 1817 copy of Sowerby’s “British Mineralogy” with your morning coffee as it is to pick up a newspaper. What once required an appointment and a trip to the Institute’s Carlsbad, California world headquarters now takes a few clicks of the mouse.

Dirlam has spent nearly three decades planning how to expand the reach of the library’s collection, which represents 85 years’ worth of curation on the part of GIA librarians. (The collection’s size increased exponentially when the Institute acquired the John and Marjorie Sinkankas Gemological Library in 1988.)

“Once we had the Sinkankas collection, we began to think about how to provide greater access to it, and to GIA’s existing rare book collection, beyond the physical walls of the library. And one of John Sinkankas’ key desires was to enable as many people as possible access to his life’s work,” Dirlam says. “Because of advances in technology, this project is opening up the reach of this library and providing access to a global audience.”

Dirlam and her team, including library manager Paula Rucinski, consulted with multiple digitization experts through the years, from geoscience librarians to staff at Los Angeles’ Getty Conservation Center. Plans finally crystallized in late 2014 and GIA’s executive team gave its stamp of approval for resources – including the purchase of specialized equipment, and the hiring of Ostrye – in December 2014.

GIA librarians began to reach out to scientists and jewelry industry leaders for recommendations on which books in the library’s collection should be the highest priority for digitization. They added the rarest titles, and only those that were out of copyright.

In addition to Pliny’s encyclopedia – a work that was the foundation of all science until the Renaissance, and one of the largest single works from the Roman Empire to have survived – other early digitized titles include an 1801 copy of Renée Just Haüy’s “Treatise of Mineralogy” and Bishop Marbode’s 1511 treatise, “Book of Precious Stones.” Marbode’s work is the earliest lapidary (book on gemstones) from the Middle Ages, and the first of his works printed on a Gutenberg movable metal type press.

An especially rare, 1925-26 catalog of Russia’s Romanov dynasty’s regalia and crown jewels was the 200th book to be digitized, and gave the public its first look at the 406-piece collection.

The digitization project also ensures that these rare, delicate books are safeguarded for all time.

“We take every precaution to carefully preserve and secure this collection,” Dirlam says. “The Sinkankas Library and other rare books are housed in a temperature- and humidity-controlled room. If a natural disaster, such as a flood or fire, occurred and the books were damaged, however, we have the digital files that capture every word, photo and illustration. These books tell the story of gems and jewels and will be accessible for generations to come.”

GIA research librarians Augustus Pritchett, left, and Sarah Ostrye have digitized more than 200 rare books from the Institute’s collection in the last two years. Photo by Emily Lane/GIA
A Painstaking Process
The digitizing process is a delicate one, full of potential complications for the technicians – including Ostrye and research librarian Augustus Pritchett – who are charged with creating digital files from often-challenging sources.

“Sometimes the text is very close to the gutter of the book, or there is fragile binding, delicate tissue paper overlays, or foldouts that may not fit under the glass platen,” says Ostrye. “Those require extra time and attention.”

The pair takes turns working in a secure room near the Cartier Rare Book Repository and Archives. The room houses a high-tech digitizing machine (Digital Transitions’ BC100 Book Capture system), that makes it possible to gently cradle the books instead of forcing them into a flat, spine-damaging position. Technicians turn each page manually to avoid skipping or tearing them, and capture high-resolution images that they edit and convert to TIFF files. Post-processing software even enables them to create searchable PDFs and e-books regardless of alphabet – including Roman, Cyrillic, Chinese, Japanese and Korean.

Visitors to the site are downloading more and more of the books every month, and Ostrye says it’s helping the library track trends in research.

“Based on which books are viewed the most, we can get an idea of which topics are most popular,” says Ostrye. “Many of our most-viewed books deal with the history of gemstones and jewelry design.”

Dirlam, who says the library will also begin to increase the availability of e-books and e-catalogs, notes that the public is welcome to submit recommendations for books to digitize. It’s one more way the library can engage the trade and public in the project, which she sees as imperative to ensuring the public trust in gems and jewelry.

“It is mission-critical that we preserve the important books, documents and other materials of the global gem and jewelry industry by digitizing them,” she says. “As Marjorie Sinkankas said, ‘We are only caretakers for a short time.’ It is our mandate to see that these materials are cherished and available for generations in the future.” @chapter:26


Publication Year: 2023 Title: Solid Laboratory-Grown Single-Crystal Diamond Ring Abstract: Figure 1. The 4.04 ct ring fashioned from a single-crystal CVD-grown diamond. Photo by Towfiq Ahmed.
Carved single-crystal diamond rings are rare, with few examples to reference (see Spring 2020 Lab Notes, pp. 132–133). But with advancing technology in the laboratory-grown diamond industry, the creation of solid faceted diamond rings is now a reality. Recently submitted to the New York laboratory was a 4.04 ct single-crystal laboratory-grown diamond ring (figure 1). The 3.03 mm thick band had an inner diameter of 16.35–16.40 mm and an outer diameter of 20.32–20.40 mm. The ring was produced by Dutch Diamond Technologies in collaboration with the Belgian jewelry store Heursel, established in 1745.

Figure 2. OpenCV software was used to draw perfect circles from the center of the ring, marked by a green dot. Photo by Towfiq Ahmed.
This laboratory-grown diamond ring was cut from an 8.54 ct plate grown by chemical vapor deposition (CVD). Laser cutting produced a near-perfect circular ring, as demonstrated using digital imaging analysis to measure its inner and outer circumferences (figure 2).
The manufacture of a solid single-crystal diamond ring is a complex and challenging process. Once material is removed from the crystal, very fine fractures and imbalanced strain can have severe consequences, and the ring can shatter. Processing can take more than six months. Creating the ring from a single-crystal laboratory-grown diamond involved about 1,131 hours of processing (including pre-grinding) in the Dutch town of Cuijk, followed by 751 hours of polishing in Belgium.
Infrared absorption analysis revealed it was a type IIa diamond (no detectable nitrogen), and no hydrogen-related peaks were detected at 3107 or 3123 cm–1. Photoluminescence spectroscopy showed interesting vacancy-related defects indicative of a multi-step growth process. A very strong emission from the silicon vacancy (SiV–) defect was observed with 633 nm laser excitation; this is a common feature used to identify CVD-grown diamond. The conclusion was that this ring had not undergone post-growth treatment; nevertheless, it was notable that the ring showed relatively low nitrogen-related defects such as NV centers, along with no detectable 468 nm peak or the 596/597 nm doublet. P. Martineau et al. (“Identification of synthetic diamond grown using chemical vapor deposition (CVD),” Spring 2004 G&G, pp. 2–25) observed the 596/597 doublet with a 514 nm laser. Also of note, there were no H3 or 468 nm centers detected with 457 nm laser excitation.

Figure 3. Strong birefringence observed under cross-polarized light (left) and blue fluorescence observed in the DiamondView (right). Images by Paul Johnson (left) and Madelyn Dragone (right).
Strong birefringence was observed using cross-polarized light under microscopic analysis, with an unusual radial pattern (figure 3, left) signifying unique growth conditions compared to typical CVD diamonds available in the market today. The deep ultraviolet illumination of the DiamondView (figure 3, right) confirmed these unusual growth features with a lack of post-growth fluorescence colors such as green produced by the H3 center.
The solid laboratory-grown diamond ring was studied by GIA and determined to have VVS2 clarity based on dark non-diamond carbon pinpoint inclusions (growth remnants typical of CVD-grown diamonds) with Good polish (polishing on the interior surface of the ring precluded Very Good). Although the ring was a near-perfect circle (figure 2), symmetry was considered not applicable. The diamond had an E color specification based on GIA’s color grading scale. The ring was laser inscribed “Laboratory-Grown” on a side facet.
The quality and size of this solid diamond ring (see the video below) provide a great example of the advancing technology in laboratory-grown diamonds and changing trends in the jewelry industry. This is the first time a GIA laboratory has examined a colorless diamond ring fashioned entirely from a laboratory-grown diamond.

	Solid CVD-Grown Diamond Ring @chapter:31


Publication Year: 2018 Title: Microlite Crystals in Topaz from Pakistan Abstract: Figure 1. A 16 mm topaz crystal and an 8.69 ct faceted topaz, both with microlite inclusions, from Pakistan. Photo by J. Hyršl.

Microlite, NaCaTa2O6(OH), is a typical mineral of highly developed lithium pegmatites, known from many localities worldwide. It always forms yellow to orange octahedral crystals. It was already known as inclusions in quartz from Pakistan (J. Hyršl and G. Niedermayr, “Einschlüsse im ‘Allerweltsmineral’ quarz,” Mineralien-Welt, Vol. 18, No. 2, 2007, pp. 44–55), but much more beautiful are microlite inclusions in topaz (figure 1), examples of which were sold in Tucson in January 2018. Shigar Valley in northern Pakistan was reported as the locality. Both minerals were confirmed by Raman spectroscopy.
Topaz forms loose, very light brown crystals up to about 2 cm, and microlite forms sharp transparent orange octahedrons in sizes up to about 1.5 mm. The inclusions grew both on the surface and inside the topaz crystals (figure 2). Several topaz crystals were faceted, and the stones host some of the most aesthetically pleasing inclusions found during the several last years.

Figure 2. A microlite crystal, measuring 1 mm across, in a topaz from Pakistan. Photo by J. Hyršl. @chapter:13


Publication Year: - Title: Aquamarine Journey Abstract: Few people outside the gem industry realize the true nature of a gemstone’s journey from the mine to the counter of a store. Whether the gem is being offered to consumer’s at a traditional jewelry store’s counter, an internet shopping site, or a television broadcast the journey always involves a great deal of effort.  Tons of earth and countless hours of labor are needed to being a gem from mine to market. @chapter:28


Publication Year: 2024 Title: Dubai's diamond trade to reach $38.3 billion in 2023 Abstract: Dubai and the United Arab Emirates (UAE) play a crucial role in the global diamond and jewelry business due to their advantageous tax policies, robust financial infrastructure, and logistics. The diversity of products and prices, easy accessibility, and genuine support from the government make them pillars for successful businesses across all industries.

The Dubai Multi Commodities Centre (DMCC), overseeing trade, business, and consumer goods for Dubai, disclosed that the total trade value of rough and polished diamonds in Dubai reached 38.3 billion USD in 2566, marking a growth rate of 2% compared to the previous year. This translates to an average Compound Annual Growth Rate (CAGR) of 11.0% over the past five years.

Diamond Trade

In 2566, the total trade value of rough diamonds for the UAE amounted to 21.3 billion USD. Despite a global decrease in rough diamond prices by about 20%, the UAE's rough diamond trade declined by only 13% compared to the previous year. Ahmed Bin Sulayem, the CEO of DMCC, stated that the total trade value of rough and polished diamonds was 8.3 billion USD in the previous year, with polished diamonds accounting for almost half of the total diamond trade. This demonstrates that Dubai is not merely a middleman but has developed infrastructure and technology to enhance market value and attractiveness. The Dubai Diamond Exchange (DDE) is the world's largest diamond trading floor, accommodating at least 200 interested buyers and sellers for auctions and ensuring the highest product quality through specialized equipment for diamond cleaning as per buyers' demands.
Dubai has been supporting the trade of Lab Grown Diamonds (LGDs) or synthetic diamonds, which are created from pure carbon. This involves simulating the natural diamond formation process within a laboratory using state-of-the-art technology. The UAE saw a 10% increase in trade value in 2566 compared to the previous year, totaling 1.6 billion USD. This growth is attributed to the changing preferences of newer generations like Millennials and Gen Z, influenced by global economic fluctuations, societal changes, and environmental concerns. Surveys from various sources globally indicate a growing trend among newer generations to prefer and purchase jewelry made from "synthetic diamonds" produced in laboratories.

In recent years, the UAE has become a key driver in the growth of global diamond trade and industry development. Ahmed Bin Sulayem, representing the UAE, assumed the chairmanship of the Kimberley Process for the year 2567, focusing on the "Year of Delivery" to ensure the efficient and independent functioning of the Kimberley Process. This marks his second term as chairman since 2559.

In 2543, as a measure to eliminate and prevent the trade of diamonds from areas under legitimate government opposition control, an international conference was held to establish guidelines for issuing certificates between countries for diamonds. These measures, known as the Kimberley Process, were established by an international organization comprising all major diamond industry countries, totaling 52 nations. Their objective is to set guidelines and establish a certification system for non-polished diamonds to maintain consistent standards and international acceptance. This helps eliminate and prevent income from unpolished diamond trade originating from areas under legitimate opposition control, which might be utilized for acquiring weapons and warfare equipment, safeguarding the diamond trading industry from potential future repercussions of other measures that could be implemented.

Importing gold, diamonds, and pearls is a lucrative business for the UAE, as evidenced by the latest statistics from UNCOMTRADE, which show imports valued at 91.573 billion USD, accounting for 24.5% of total imports. This sector has experienced a growth rate of 24.0%, with imports primarily coming from the top 10 countries including India, Russia, Turkey, Malaysia, Ghana, South Africa, Switzerland, Belgium, Zimbabwe, and Botswana.

On the export front for Thailand, jewelry and gems sent to the UAE include genuine gold, diamond, and pearl jewelry, sterling silver jewelry, synthetic pearls, and unprocessed gold. In 2566, exports were valued at 265 million USD, declining by 3.7%, and in 2567 (January), the value was 15.5 million USD, declining by 7.9% compared to the same period of the previous year. @chapter:30


Publication Year: 2003 Title: Red Beryl from Utah: A Review and Update Abstract: There is only one known commercial occurrence of gem-quality red beryl in the world: the Ruby Violet (or Red Beryl) mine in the Wah Wah Mountains of Beaver County, Utah. The beryl is found mostly along fractures (often clay-filled) in a topaz rhyolite. It crystallized as a vapor-phase mineral from the reaction between rhyolite-derived gases, vapors originating from heated ground waters, and preexisting minerals and volcanic glass in the rhyolite. Production of red beryl over the past 25 years is estimated to be more than 60,000 carats, of which about 10% was facetable. Exploration and evaluation programs undertaken by two mining companies from 1994 to 2001, combined with field studies by some of the authors and others, have resulted in a greater understanding of the geology of the Ruby Violet deposit and the potential for productive areas beyond the current mine site. @chapter:2


Publication Year: 2003 Title: Spring 2003 G&G Lab Notes Abstract: Diamond with Fracture Filling to Alter Color
Intensely Colored Type IIa Diamond with Substantial Nitrogen-Related Defects
Diamond with Unusual Overgrowth
Euclase Specimen with Apatite and Feldspar
"Cherry Quartz” Glass Imitation
Cat’s-Eye Opal
“Blue” Quartz
Heat-Treated Ruby with a Large Glass-Filled Cavity
Play-of-Color Zircon

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:32


Publication Year: 2017 Title: Book Review: Ruby Abstract: By Joanna Hardy, 368 pp., hardcover, illus., publ. by Thames & Hudson, New York, 2017, US$125.00.

With its deep crimson color and bold gold lettering, Ruby stands out on a bookshelf, much as a piece of fine jewelry catches attention in a room. This eye for design continues inside the beautifully laid-out volume, with plenty of examples of important ruby jewelry and the powerful people who have worn them throughout history.

Ruby begins with a section on spinel, which has been confused with ruby in the past. This is a nice touch, because any historical account of ruby would be incomplete without the mention of spinel. Author Joanna Hardy goes on to describe ruby and its properties. However, it must be emphasized that, by the author’s own admission, this book is not meant to be a gemological text. In fact, the gemological information is brief and in places contains minor errors. For example, the fluorescence in rubies is attributed to different levels of chromium without a clear explanation of how iron content has a strong influence on a ruby’s fluorescence and overall appearance.

Hardy’s strength is in talking about rubies’ historical impact and in explaining the significance of prominent pieces of jewelry, and much of the book is devoted to this. The sections cover a wide range, from older royal collections to modern pieces worn by 20th century celebrities such as Grace Kelly and Marlene Dietrich. They provide a wonderful overview of how rubies became a symbol of power and influence. There are numerous illustrations both of the jewels, such as the legendary Nga Mauk ruby, and the people who owned these storied pieces

Following this topic, the book covers some of the techniques used by jewelry designers from the classic houses of Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels to more contemporary designers like Wallace Chan. Again the author plays to her strengths, sharing insights from her experience as a jewelry expert.

In the final sections Ms. Hardy provides a charming travelogue of her own visits to the world’s most important ruby mines, which she took in preparation for writing this book. I particularly enjoyed following the journey of a ruby crystal sourced from artisanal miners in Mogok, Myanmar (formerly Burma) from rough into a piece of finished jewelry.

Readers should not expect a gemology textbook when purchasing this volume. Instead, it reads like a gorgeously illustrated art history guide. Although Ruby can be read cover-to-cover, it is presented in sections that can stand alone, making it an ideal coffee table book to pick up and read at leisure. I found myself skipping forward to sections that I was most curious about, which works well with the format.

This luxurious tome will broaden your gemological background, explaining the historical and cultural impact of ruby and how it has earned its title as the king of gems. It would make a wonderful gift for anyone with an interest in ruby, and an especially nice accompaniment to a piece of ruby jewelry. @chapter:26


Publication Year: 1996 Title: De Beers Natural versus Synthetic Diamond Verification Instruments Abstract: Two instruments have been developed at De Beers DTC Research Centre, Maidenhead, to distinguish synthetic diamonds from natural diamonds. The DiamondSureTM enables the rapid examination of large numbers of polished diamonds, both loose and set in jewelry. Automatically and with high sensitivity, this instrument detects the presence of the 415 nm optical absorption line, which is found in the vast majority of natural diamonds but not in synthetic diamonds. Those stones in which this line is detected are "passed" by the instrument, and those in which it is not detected are "referred for further tests." The DiamondViewTM produces a fluorescence image of the surface of a polished diamond, from which the growth structure of the stone may be determined. On the basis of this fluorescence pattern—which is quite different for natural as compared to synthetic diamonds—the trained operator can positively identify whether a diamond is natural or synthetic. @chapter:31


Publication Year: 2014 Title: Books: Rings – Jewelry of Power, Love and Loyalty Abstract: By Diana Scarisbrick, 384 pp., illus., publ. by Thames and Hudson, London, 2014, $34.95.

              If you’ve ever uttered the words, “I think I’ll wait till it comes out in paperback,” your ship just came in. I’ve said it myself, numerous times, and then forgotten all about whatever book I was waiting for. Not this time.

Originally published as a hardcover in 2007, Rings: Jewelry of Power, Love and Loyalty is the real deal. It is brilliantly photographed, meticulously researched, and engagingly readable, with a high-quality paperback binding, sewn pages, and a double foldout cover. At $34.95, you can’t afford not to own this treasure.

Perhaps my favorite feature of this book is simply that it contains multiple images of many of the subjects. How often do you see the top view of a ring and wonder what a side detail looks like? Or you might have a perfectly acceptable perspective view, yet the text describes an engraving on the inside of the band that is not shown in the image. Kudos to Scarisbrick and the photographer for taking the time to include these creative angles. What a luxury.

The heart of the book is the Benjamin Zucker Family Collection, accompanied by pieces from the Walters Art Museum in Baltimore, the Museum of Fine Arts in Boston, Rosenborg Castle in Copenhagen, London’s Freud Museum, the Cartier Collection, and a host of private collections.

The organization of information in Rings is a treat. It is arranged into eight thematic chapters, each explored chronologically from ancient times to the present. With this format, you can see the evolution of certain types of rings, and how art, fashion, politics, and social norms exerted their influences. Starting with 50 pages of signets in the first chapter, all of the sections provide insightful ways to associate and characterize the groupings of rings.

The remaining chapters parse the vast oeuvre of rings into what might be considered sociological subdivisions, such as “Love, Marriage, and Friendship Rings,” “Rings Associated with Illustrious People and Great Events,” “Decorative Rings,” and so on. I am fascinated to see how the ring, a relatively small item, can open up insights to so many different time periods and how the popularity of different types of rings waxed and waned.

Adding to the depth of information in each chapter is the use of drawings and paintings from various periods. Scholarly but not stuffy, the background text fleshes out the humanity behind the rings and adds insights about the people and the times. Equally impressive is the technical mastery of countless, mostly anonymous, jewelry makers. We see examples that may have been solo efforts, as well as numerous collaborations between designers, goldsmiths, lapidaries, stone setters, enamelists, and polishers. All come together to create a lasting, wearable work of art, the perennially popular ring. @chapter:16


Publication Year: 2017 Title: Book Review: Secrets of the Gem Trade, Second Edition Abstract: By Richard W. Wise, hardcover, 404 pp., illus. publ. by Brunswick House, Lenox, Massachusetts, 2016, $99.95.

The gem and jewelry industry is still extremely secretive, even in our fast-paced digital era. In both the first and this second edition of Secrets of the Gem Trade, Richard W. Wise targets trade secrets that almost all beginners and consumers would like to peek into. With over 30 years of experience in the industry, Mr. Wise shared both his knowledge and life experience with his readers in this marvelous work.

Since Wise was not born into the trade—he started out as an apprentice goldsmith, becoming a well-known gem businessman—his personal experience will echo with many readers of this book. His book has been expanded since the first edition was published in 2002. The second edition builds on the author’s research and personal excursions to gem sources, manufacturer hubs, and major markets around the globe. This effort is well reflected in the sophistication of content in many chapters. Wise incorporates important, newly discovered gem sources, including East African ruby deposits. Wise also provides updates on sources that used to be important but have since been exhausted. As a result, the author almost completely rewrote the ruby, sapphire, and spinel chapters in order to deliver the most updated information to the readers.

Wise also added chapters on jade, natural nacreous pearls, conch pearl, demantoid garnet, peridot, moonstone, and sunstone. There is also an introduction to go together with each of the above gems (with the exception of demantoid garnet). A new introduction of blue white diamonds was also included with this update. I paid special attention to the new jade chapter, as Wise went to China’s jade manufacturing centers to experience their treatment of this gem in person.

The first seven chapters of the book introduce the essentials of connoisseurship. The discussion begins with the history of the precious gem concept and the modern concept in comparison. Then it moves to the address several pillars of the modern gem and jewelry industry including grading standards, color description, grading special cases, gemstone enhancement and an overview of new gem sources. Beginning with chapter 8, each chapter deals with one specific gem variety. For gems falling into the same group, the author also provides an introduction before providing an in-depth look at each material. For example, there is an introduction for pearls which is followed by four separate chapters devoted to different varieties.

While this book can be used as a gemology textbook, it is also quite different than those traditionally used for this purpose. The order of the chapters on individual gem varieties follows the alphabetic sequence rather than mineral classification. This makes it a lot easier for readers with no mineralogy background to navigate. Second, the author uses understandable language, rather than scientific terminology, to deliver the message to readers of all different levels and interests. When explaining concepts, personal understanding is always described to add the author’s personality to the content. For instance, in the “Rethinking of 4Cs” chapter, the author explained the standardized 4Cs and then added his own 5th C, “crystal,” an interesting concept that people won’t be able to find in gemology textbooks. Last but not least, this book is well illustrated with breathtaking images and deliberately designed graphics, an aspect that is often lacking in conventional gemology textbooks.

Readers will not just learn the essential concepts of modern gemology, but will also get a better understanding of the gem market. Additionally, the author also uses his own experience to tell the readers what is the best way to learn the gem trade, giving and what “homework” they need to do before going out to buy. It is a good read for people who are currently outside of the trade but want to step in. It is also an excellent review for those who are already experienced in this trade. The second edition of Secrets of the Gem Trade is definitely one of the best comprehensive gemological publications you can find today. @chapter:28


Publication Year: 2018 Title: Unusual Orange Pyrope-Spessartine-Grossular Garnet Abstract: Figure 1. The unique composition of this 7.97 ct orange pear-shaped garnet was revealed as pyrope-spessartine-grossular. Photo by Robison McMurtry.

GIA’s New York laboratory recently examined an orange pear-shaped faceted stone (figure 1). Standard gemological testing revealed a refractive index of 1.771 and a hydrostatic specific gravity of 3.89. The fluorescence reaction was inert to long-wave and short-wave UV light. The stone did not show any pleochroism when viewed with a dichroscope. Using a handheld spectroscope, absorption bands located at 410 and 430 nm in the blue and violet sections were clearly observed. All of these gemological properties are consistent with pyrope-spessartine garnet based on the classification system from Stockton and Manson (“A proposed new classification for gem-quality garnets,” Winter 1985 G&G, pp. 205–218).

Besides standard gemological testing, all garnets submitted to GIA laboratories are routinely analyzed by energy-dispersive X-ray fluorescence (EDXRF) spectroscopy (see column 4 of the supplementary table below). EDXRF results showed that the stone was predominantly composed of 15.37 mol.% pyrope, 53.70 mol.% spessartine, and—surprisingly—25.39 mol.% grossular. Unlike normal pyrope-spessartine garnet submitted to GIA that contains a small amount of grossular (less than 10 mol.%), this garnet had a much higher grossular component that had never been reported before in gem-quality garnets, to our knowledge. (Note that “malaia/malaya” is a trade name for yellowish, reddish, or pinkish orange pyrope-spessartine garnets that can potentially contain 2–94% spessartine, 0–83% pyrope, 2–78% almandine, 0–24% grossular, and 0–4% andradite. The garnet we examined falls into this concentration range.)

To validate the accuracy of the chemistry, we performed laser ablation–inductively coupled plasma–mass spectrometry (LA-ICP-MS) analysis using a Thermo Fisher iCAP Qc ICP-MS coupled with a New Wave Research UP-213 laser ablation unit to obtain an additional set of chemical composition. USGS glass standard GSD-1G and GSE-1G were used as external standards. 29Si was used as internal standard. The LA-ICP-MS results showed good agreement with the EDXRF results (see columns 1–3 of the supplementary table above).

Figure 2. (Pyrope + grossular)-spessartine-almandine ternary diagram with data points based on molecular percentages for pyralspite garnet (modified after Stockton and Manson, 1985). The orange spot is the average of three sets of LA-ICP-MS data (table 1, columns 1-3). Refractive index and spectral boundaries are used to distinguish among the six proposed garnet species labeled in the diagram.
Garnets are a group of isometric nesosilicates with the general chemical formula X3Y2Z3O12. Natural rock-forming silicate garnets are commonly divided into the pyralspite (pyrope, almandine, and spessartine) and ugrandite (uvarovite, grossular, and andradite) groups. In pyralspite, Al3+ occupies the Y-site and the X-site may contain Mg2+, Fe2+, or Mn2+; these garnets are composed predominantly of pyrope (Mg3Al2Si3O12), almandine (Fe2+3Al2Si3O12), and spessartine (Mn3Al2Si3O12) end members. Stockton and Manson (1985) presented a ternary plot (figure 2) to gemologically classify the pyralspite garnet species, and this showed the correlation among refractive index, visible spectroscopic observation, and chemistry. They determined that pyrope-spessartine should have a refractive index between 1.740 and 1.780 along with clear 410 and 430 nm absorption bands. We concluded that the orange pear-shaped garnet should be classified gemologically as pyrope-spessartine garnet.

To understand why this garnet with a high grossular component still shows the same gemological properties of normal pyrope-spessartine, we plotted the orange garnet chemistry in this ternary plot by combining pyrope with a grossular component. The orange spot representing the orange garnet appeared in the pyrope-spessartine region, because the refractive index of pure pyrope (1.714) is close to and functions almost the same as the RI of pure grossular (1.734) in contributing to the combined refractive index. Since there is not a specific gemological species name for this orange garnet with higher grossular than pyrope component, the authors suggest that the stone be called pyrope-spessartine-grossular. This case demonstrates that sophisticated chemical analysis of garnet should be practiced routinely in gemological laboratories to make sure unique garnets are not misidentified. @chapter:10


Publication Year: 2018 Title: Freshwater Pearls, Blister and Loose, with Their Host Shells Abstract: Figure 1. Three freshwater pearls attached to their host shells. Left to right: A blister pearl measuring approximately 37.45 × 27.48 mm, a loose wing pearl measuring 35.82 × 9.37 × 5.94 mm and weighing 10.60 ct, and a blister pearl measuring approximately 23.60 × 19.49 mm. Photo by Sood Oil (Judy) Chia; specimens courtesy of Mississippi River Pearl Jewelry Co. LLC.
GIA occasionally receives blister pearls attached to their host shells for identification (Winter 2015 Lab Notes, pp. 432–434; Summer 2017 Lab Notes, pp. 231–232), which can provide helpful information on the overall growth conditions and the mollusk species. Recently the New York laboratory had an opportunity to study three freshwater specimens: two blister pearls still attached to their shells, and one loose “wing” pearl that was reportedly found in the shell with which it was submitted (figure 1).
While approximately 1,000 species of freshwater mussels have been identified worldwide, the United States alone is said to host about 300 species, compared to 96 species in Africa, 60 in China, and 12 in Europe (Virginia Department of Game and Inland Fisheries, 2018, https://www.dgif.virginia.gov/wildlife/freshwater-mussels/). The number of U.S. species shows the spectacular diversity of its freshwater resources. Hence, it proves how difficult it can be to apply correct zoological names to specific shells. However, experienced local fishermen who harvest the mussels are often the source of helpful information (T. Hsu et al., “Freshwater pearling in Tennessee,” 2016). The owner claimed that the loose wing-shaped pearl (figure 1, center) was found in a Potamilus purpuratus “Bluefer” mussel in a U.S. river. Bluefer mussels exhibit a pinkish purple to deep purple nacre lining and can produce pearls of a similar color range. Energy-dispersive X-ray fluorescence (EDXRF) spectrometry confirmed that it originated from a freshwater environment, based on its chemistry result of more than 1000 ppmw manganese. Freshwater pearls usually show higher than 100 ppmw manganese content. Real-time X-ray microradiography (RTX) revealed a natural growth structure, while Raman spectroscopy detected aragonite and polyenic peaks, the latter indicating the presence of natural coloring pigments (S. Karampelas et al., “Role of polyenes in the coloration of cultured freshwater pearls,” European Journal of Mineralogy, Vol. 21, 2009, pp. 85–97). This specimen also displayed the characteristic elongated, flat, and slightly curved shape characteristic of wing pearls that, as the name implies, resembles the shape of a bird’s wing. Wing pearls commonly form in the hinge area within shells, and it was interesting to see a similar-sized cavity in the shell submitted with this pearl.
The other two blister pearls were also claimed to have originated from a freshwater environment, and this was confirmed by their optical X-ray fluorescence reactions. Both specimens showed a strong yellowish green luminescence under X-ray excitation, a result that agrees with pearls from a freshwater environment due to their higher manganese content (H.A. Hänni et al., “X-ray luminescence, a valuable test in pearl identification,” The Journal of Gemmology, Vol 29, No. 5/6, 2005, pp. 325–329). According to the owner, the smaller shell (figure 1, right), possibly a washboard mussel (Megalonaias nervosa), was found in a U.S. river, while the larger shell (figure 1, left) is likely a hybrid Hyriopsis mussel commonly used by cultured pearl farmers in China. Blister pearls form when a whole pearl within the connective tissue breaks through the mantle due to its size and/or weight, or for some other reason, and presses against the nacreous inner surface of the shell, where subsequent nacre deposition fuses the pearl to the shell (E. Strack, Pearls, Ruhle-Diebener-Verlag, Stuttgart, Germany, 2006, p. 124).

Figure 2. Close-up images of the freshwater blister pearls from China (left) and the United States (right) attached to their hosts. Photos by Joyce Wing Yan Ho.

Figure 3. The RTX structure of the large blister pearl (shown on the left in figures 1 and 2) revealed a void-like structure in which a near-oval feature is visible (indicated by the arrow).
The size of these two blister pearls is impressive, and both protrude conspicuously from the shell while still attached to their hosts (figure 2). The RTX results of the smaller blister pearl revealed concentric growth arcs proving its natural origin. However, the RTX results of the larger blister pearl revealed a void-like structure that may be found within natural and non-bead-cultured pearls, but a near-oval feature inside the void is uncommon in natural pearls (figure 3). GIA gemologists believe this oval feature was the triggering mechanism that likely resulted in the formation of the blister pearl. Whether this oval feature is a by-product of pearl culturing or a natural formation is hard to prove without examining the blister pearl thoroughly in other orientations, which was precluded by its size and position. While the identification of some freshwater pearls remains challenging, these known freshwater samples together with their host shells serve as useful references for laboratory gemologists. @chapter:14


Publication Year: 2014 Title: Color-Change Garnet in Diamond Abstract: Figure 1. This inclusion, a color-change pyrope-spessartine garnet crystal in diamond, appeared grayish green in fluorescent light (left) and purplish red in incandescent light (right). Photomicrographs by Meenakshi Chauhan; field of view 2 mm (left) and 3 mm (right).

The Indian Gemological Institute’s Gem Testing Laboratory recently examined a 0.30 ct colorless round brilliant-cut diamond containing an interesting inclusion. Infrared spectroscopy revealed features found in type IaA diamond, with a slight absorption peak due to hydrogen impurities. With a clarity grade of SI2, the diamond contained several colorless crystals and one surface-breaking grayish green crystal (figure 1, left). Under incandescent light, the grayish green crystal appeared purplish red (figure 1, right), displaying a strong color-change phenomenon.

Under the Chelsea filter the inclusion showed a bright red reaction, suggesting the presence of chromium. There was a polished area of the included crystal on the surface, but it was too small for us to measure the refractive index.

The included crystal did not display pleochroism under microscopic observation with crossed polarizers. Viewed in immersion, it appeared to be singly refractive. DiamondView imaging showed the fluorescence pattern of growth planes found in natural diamond (figure 2). Typical octahedral growth zones of blue N3 fluorescence were evident, with no disturbance in the zones around the color-change crystal.

Figure 2. This DiamondView image of the host diamond shows octahedral growth zones (notice the crystal inclusions). Image by Meenakshi Chauhan.
For conclusive identification of the inclusion, we sent the diamond to the Gem Testing Laboratory in Jaipur for laser Raman spectroscopy. As the color-change crystal broke through the diamond’s surface, a clear Raman spectrum could be obtained (figure 3). The peak at approximately 1332 cm–1 is assigned to diamond, and the peaks at approximately 1046, 910, 858, 637, 549, and 362 cm–1 are assigned to garnet. The 910 cm–1 peak is associated with the pyralspite isomorphous series, which is comprised of pyrope, almandine, and spessartine garnet. The inclusion was therefore identified as garnet belonging to the pyralspite series.

Figure 3. The Raman spectrum of the color-change pyrope-spessartine garnet inclusion  showed the 1046, 910, 858, 637, 549, and 362 cm–1 peaks assigned to garnet. The 1332 cm–1 peak is assigned to diamond. @chapter:11


Publication Year: 2015 Title: Violetish Blue Spinel in Yellow Sapphire Abstract: This violetish blue inclusion in a Sri Lankan yellow sapphire was identified as spinel. Photomicrograph by Nathan Renfro; field of view 5.63 mm.

	Spinel as an inclusion in sapphire has been previously documented in blue and yellow sapphires from Sri Lanka (E.J. Gübelin and J.I. Koivula, Photoatlas of Inclusions in Gemstones, Vol. 1, ABC Edition, Zurich, 1986, pp. 353–354). Typically these inclusions are green zinc-rich ghanospinels. Recently the authors examined a transparent light yellow sapphire crystal with a prominent violetish blue octahedral inclusion. Interestingly, microscopic examination showed the violetish blue inclusion to be an intergrowth of at least two gemmy crystals, with the larger one crystallographically aligned with negative crystals that were also present in the host.

	When further examined with polarized light, the violetish blue inclusion appeared to be singly refractive, which meant spinel was a possibility, considering their similar formation environments. The sample was polished down to a plate in order to place the violetish blue inclusion closer to the surface for Raman analysis, which conclusively confirmed that it was spinel. Also present in this sapphire were numerous carbon dioxide–filled negative crystals, fingerprints, and open cracks. The presence of the intact CO2 inclusions and the pristine condition of the spinel inclusion provided clear evidence that the sapphire host had not been subjected to any form of heat treatment. This is the first example of a violetish blue spinel inclusion in sapphire that the authors have examined. @chapter:19


Publication Year: 1985 Title: Summer 1985 Gem News International Abstract: Diamonds
            Africa: Exciting New Diamond Find in Guinea; Kimberley Diamonds Dated
            Australia: Production at Argyle Mines Declines
            Canada: Exploration Scheduled in British Columbia
            China: “Exceptionally Beautiful” Diamonds Discovered
            U.S.: Anomalous Diamond Found in Alaska
Precious Metals
            Alluvial Gold Located by Geological Survey of India
            Bacterial Gold Mining Proposed in British Columbia
            Development of Bolivian Placer Gold Deposits Planned
            Gold and Silver Exploration in Guatemala
            Saudi Arabian Gold Mining
Synthetics and Simulants
            Method for Coating with Synthetic Diamond
            New Man-Made Materials Developed
            Plastic Scrimshaw
Announcements
            Hong Kong Jewelry & Watch Fair Scheduled for September 10-13, 1985
            European Conference on Precious Stones Scheduled for October 18-21 in Antwerp
            Munich’s INHORGENTA 86 Fixed for February 7-11, 1986
            Judy Evans of Minneapolis Wins 1985 Schuetz Jewelry Design Contest
            L.A. County Museum of Natural History unveils “Gemstones and Their Origins”

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:24


Publication Year: 2000 Title: Gem Localities of the 1990s Abstract: The past decade saw growth in gem exploration, production, and marketing worldwide. Important colored stone–producing regions included: Southeast Asia (Myanmar, Thailand, and Vietnam), Africa (Tanzania, Kenya, Zimbabwe, Nigeria, and Namibia, as well as Madagascar), South America (Brazil and Colombia), central and southern Asia (Sri Lanka, India, Afghanistan, Pakistan, Russia, and China), and Australia. The major sources for diamonds were Australia, central and southern Africa (Botswana, South Africa, Namibia, Angola, and Zaire), and Russia (mainly in the Republic of Sakha), with exciting discoveries in northern Canada. Cultured pearls from French Polynesia, Australia, and China became increasingly important, as production from Japan declined. This article provides a comprehensive overview of those gem deposits that were either new or remained commercially significant in the last decade of the 20th century.

	DATA DEPOSITORY

Pearl Localities Table - Expanded Version
	Submitted by Dona Dirlam
	January 29, 2001 @chapter:7


Publication Year: - Title: Hong Kong Report:The Sky Stays Aloft Abstract: The annual Hong Kong Jewellery & Gem Fair, which took place in September 2013, is the largest jewelry trade show of its kind in the world. Photo by Russell Shor.

                      Business at the September 2013 Hong Kong show, while spotty, helped lift the spirits of diamond and jewelry manufacturers worldwide.

Exhibitors at the world’s largest jewelry trade fair had prepared for a very poor show because of the slowing Chinese economy and the declining currencies of key Asian nations, including India, Japan, and Malaysia. Worse yet, many diamond manufacturers feared that Indian diamond merchants who have been facing a liquidity crisis would come to the show offering deep discounts to raise quick cash.

To the relief of the trade, exhibitors held relatively firm on prices and Asian retailers, who were low on inventory, came to the show to restock. In general, buying was very cautious. Retailers did not venture far beyond what they needed for the Golden Week holiday in October and the Lunar New Year, which begins January 31.

Diamond demand centered on commercial-quality goods between 0.25 and 0.75 ct and better-quality stones between 2 and 3 ct. While retailers bargained hard on prices, they needed inventory and, in the end, made deals.

Diamond manufacturers reported there was less wrangling over prices at this year’s show because they had little room to maneuver.

“With rough prices still high, margins have been extremely thin, so we could not go much lower on prices,” said one large manufacturer who said he was generally satisfied with the results of the show.

Buyers and exhibitors alike were worried about the persistent rumors of undisclosed melee-size CVD synthetic diamonds entering the market. No one interviewed for this report said that such concerns would curtail their buying at the show, but exhibitors worried that the possibility might depress prices in the future, or until there is an economic means of testing small diamonds.

Emerald dealers reported that demand was up from last year, despite higher prices for the best goods. At the same time, the strong rise in prices for both untreated and heated-only blue sapphire has helped drive demand for tanzanite, particularly because dealers were showing larger amounts of fine-color material this year.

There was much more ruby available than in previous years, as the production from Mozambique has entered the market in a big way. Prices were rising despite the increased supply, said dealers, because the market is recognizing Mozambique as a quality source.

The jade market remained tight because Chinese customs has impounded a number of rough shipments from Myanmar this year. This has caused the Myanmar government to cancel several major auctions.

Pearl dealers reported that demand has improved across every price range and that prices have stabilized after several years of steady declines in all but the very top qualities. @chapter:30


Publication Year: - Title: Update on Rock Creek Sapphire Deposit Abstract: Figure 1. Excavators and a washing plant on Gem Mountain process gravel for sapphire recovery. Photo by Warren Boyd.

                      Recently, Montana-based Potentate Mining LLC secured approximately 3,000 acres of sapphire-bearing ground covering the famous Rock Creek sapphire district, including the Gem Mountain sapphire mine, near Philipsburg, Montana. Since the discovery of these sapphire deposits in the 1890s, this is the first time that one company has consolidated such a large land position, encompassing the old alluvial sites as well as the area on the hills in between these old workings (figure 1). Potentate has assembled a team of highly experienced placer miners, geologists, mining engineers, and heavy equipment operators to recover and process the sapphires from this mine.

The Rock Creek district sapphire deposits occur in debris flow, colluvium, and secondary alluvial deposits (figure 2). Although the bedrock for these deposits has not yet been defined, Potentate plans further geological mapping and geophysical surveys in the near future to uncover these sources.

Figure 2. A trench on Gem Mountain showing the sapphire-rich colluvium on the hilltops between the previously worked gulches. Photo by Keith Barron.
To date, the rough sapphires recovered from the bulk sampling pits range in size from 0.25 ct to over 20 ct. Approximately 15% of this rough occurs naturally in marketable colors, including pink, orange, orange-pink, lavender, golden yellow, blue-green and green, and fine blue (figure 3). A substantial percentage of the remaining rough responds very well to heat treatment technologies that improve clarity and turn greenish and grayish rough to desirable colors such as blue, orange, yellow, pink, and parti-color.

	Figure 3. A selected assortment of unheated rough sapphires from the Rock Creek deposit
	weighing from 0.50 to 17 ct. Photo by Warren Boyd.
The high-grade concentration of the sapphires recovered from the various test pits, and the substantial inferred rough sapphire resource on Gem Mountain, indicate that Potentate would be able to provide a long-term, consistent supply of sapphire rough to the global market (figure 4). Potentate would be the only large-volume source for the Rock Creek sapphires. The company is developing a marketing strategy that would provide sustainable supply chain guarantees to their clients. These clients including wholesale gemstone cutters, polishers, and fine jewelry retailers would in turn be able to provide guarantees of origin and the presence (or absence) of any heat treatment to their consumers.

	Figure 4. A selection of natural and heat-treated Rock Creek sapphire ranging from 0.50
	to 4.70 ct. Photo by Jeff Scovil. @chapter:7


Publication Year: 2013 Title: From a Snowflake to an Iceberg: The McFerrin Collection Abstract: The McFerrin’s have one of the largest private collections of Fabergé objects and the exhibit contains over 350 items from their collection. This book was published on the occasion of the exhibition “Fabergé: A Brilliant Vision,” part of the McFerrin Collection at the Houston Museum of Natural Science.

In addition to descriptions and provenance of the items on display, this work contains essays on: the history of Peter Carl Fabergé and his businesses in St. Petersburg and Moscow, as well as of the Romanov family; the meaning and significance of imperial awards, gifts and objects; and Fabergé’s jewelry, animal and flower carvings, picture frames, fans, parasol and cane handles, eggs, bell pulls, cigarette cases, and more. There is also some information on designer Alma Pihl and his workmasters. Of course, this all accents the book’s wonderful photography.

The McFerrins’ belief in education and sharing their knowledge is mirrored by the book’s contributors, whose essays are each accompanied by a bibliography and provenance.

Reviewed by GIA Library Staff
Carlsbad, California @chapter:21


Publication Year: 1987 Title: A Study of the General Electric Synthetic Jadeite Abstract: The gemological properties of synthetic green and lavender jadeite, which has been manufactured by the General Electric Company on an experimental basis, are summarized. The synthetic jadeites examined appear as flattened or rounded disks that have indices of refraction of about 1.66 and specific gravities of 3.28-3.34. They are also similar in many other respects to natural jadeites, except for a slightly greater hardness (-8) and differences in luster, translucency, and appearance. The synthetic jadeites are the result of an experimental study, and at present there are no plans for commercial production. @chapter:37


Publication Year: - Title: GIA Team Documents Oregon’s Sunstone Mines Abstract: The rich glow of red from inside this rough Oregon sunstone hints at its potential as a fashioned gem. Photo by Duncan Pay/GIA.

In July 2013, GIA’s Shane McClure, director of West Coast Identification Services in the Carlsbad lab; Duncan Pay, editor-in-chief of Gems & Gemology; and Robert Weldon, manager of photography and visual communications, traveled with videographer Kevin Schumacher to the remote southeast corner of the U.S. state of Oregon to visit three of the region’s sunstone mines. The team spent five days interviewing the miners and photographing/filming each mining operation. They also collected gem and rock samples for future research, which will be published in Gems & Gemology.

The unique nature of the gems and the harsh, yet beautiful high plains and desert landscape left an indelible impression on all the trip’s participants.

“The contrast between the tall trees at the Ponderosa and the broad, wide valleys and dark rolling volcanic hills near Plush was striking, although both areas have a rugged, distinctive beauty of their own,” Schumacher said.

John Woodmark of the Ponderosa Mine couldn’t agree more, which is why he and his team work so hard to protect it.

“It’s a pristine area, it’s beautiful,” he said. “It’s wonderful just to come up here, let alone find a truly exotic gem like Oregon sunstone. We’ve got over a million board feet of huge ponderosa, most of them in the 250- to 300-year-old range, and we’re trying very hard not to disturb any of those trees and still get the same stones that we need to mine.”

Sunstone is a rare and exotic American gem. That’s what makes mining more than a commercial activity for the people GIA met on this trip, Schumacher said.

“It’s a passion, and a way of life ‒ they’re working hard to make Oregon sunstone a mainstream gem, one that enlightened consumers will ask their jewelers for. I’d never given much thought to sunstone before, but now I realize it’s a genuine treasure ‒ right on our doorstep.”

See the Field Report on Oregon sunstone in the Fall 2013 issue of Gems & Gemology, which includes Schumacher’s videos of mining activities and conversations with the dedicated souls that mine Oregon’s beautiful state gem.

A miner shows the GIA team the production from one of the sunstone mines visited. Photo by Duncan Pay/GIA. @chapter:24


Publication Year: - Title: The Hidden Beauty of Gemstones Abstract: View Gallery

Gemstones are stunning to behold, yet there’s a world of breathtaking beauty invisible to the naked eye.

Using powerful microscopes and cameras, GIA researchers have photographed numerous gemstones at magnification up to 1,000 times larger than seen with the unaided eye (this magnification would be notated as 1000x). GIA researchers like John Koivula, a pioneer in the field, have used photomicrography to document inclusions in gems. These gemological “fingerprints” tell the story of a gemstone and often reveal if a stone is natural, synthetic, or treated.

Photomicrography has another benefit. Since gem minerals have a high degree of transparency, they serve as geological time capsules. By documenting inclusions contained in them with photomicrography, geologists can study the genetic environment in which a mineral grew. Sometimes this reveals the part of the world where a gem originated. Photomicrography serves invaluable scientific purposes. It also makes for absolutely stunning images.

			GIA education uses photomicrographs to illustrate inclusions. These reference photomicrographs help students determine if a stone they are examining is natural, treated, or synthetic.

			Nathan Renfro, lead analytical specialist, Laboratory Identification Services, GIA @chapter:20


Publication Year: - Title: Lapis Lazuli History and Lore Abstract: For centuries, Afghanistan has been an important source for top-quality lapis.

                      Historians believe the link between humans and lapis lazuli stretches back more than 6,500 years. The gem was treasured by the ancient civilizations of Mesopotamia, Egypt, China, Greece, and Rome. They valued it for its vivid, exquisite color, and prized it as much as they prized other blue gems like sapphire and turquoise.

Badakshan, a province in present-day Afghanistan, is a forbidding wasteland of mountains, bare of any vegetation. The sheer mountain faces rise as high as 17,000 feet, and are scored with treacherous ravines. Humans make their way there to seek one thing only: the azure treasure that is fine lapis lazuli.

	The miners’ supplies have to be brought into the desolate area by mule train. - Gary
	Bowersox
The same was true as far back as 700 BC, when the region was part of a country known as Bactria. The lapis mines that were producing then are still producing today. They are, in fact, the world’s oldest known commercial gemstone sources.

	The ancient mines of Bactria—now Afghanistan—are still producing lapis today. This
	fine-color specimen was named "The Owl" because of its distinctive shape. It weighs
	about 2 lbs. (1 kg).- Robert Weldon, courtesy M. Chung
Merchant caravans transported their precious blue cargo across Bactria, on their way to the great cities of the ancient Greeks, Indians, Egyptians, Mesopotamians, and Persians. Marco Polo referred to the area’s lapis mines in 1271, but few outsiders have seen them because of their inhospitable location.

For thousands of years, lapis has been fashioned to show off its rich, dark color. Typically, lapis used in jewelry has been cut into cabochons, beads, inlays, and tablets. But lapis lazuli’s use has never been limited to jewelry alone. It’s also a popular carving material. Throughout its history, lapis has been fashioned into practical objects, including game boards, bowls, dagger handles, hair combs, and amulets.

	This lapis cabochon features the ancient symbol of a scarab beetle carved into its surface. - Maha Tannous

	Inlay, a typical lapis cutting style, is featured in this man’s ring. The gold mounting complements the pyrite flecks in the inlay. - Mike Havstad

	Throughout history, lapis has been fashioned into ornamental objects. This elaborate
	carving takes advantage of the striking contrast between light-colored calcite and the
	deep blue of lapis.
Today, lapis is frequently fashioned into freeform and nature-themed sculptures. Some of these carvings become wearable art, others are purely decorative.

	This striking tiger brooch is a creation of Cartier, New York, the famed design house. Its dramatic appearance features yellow diamonds, black onyx, lapis lazuli, and platinum. - GIA and Harold & Erica Van Pelt, courtesy Ishaia Trading Corp., New York.

	This delicate carving is part of the 21-piece “Symphony in Gemstones” collection. - Robert Weldon, gift of Art Sexauer @chapter:25


Publication Year: - Title: Bench Tip #7: A Modified Tool to Bezel-Set Round Faceted Stones Abstract: Bezel-set round faceted stones

This is a follow-up to Bench Tip #6, “Using a Split Mandrel for Finishing Fabricated Round Bezels,” which showed you how to modify a standard split mandrel to make an effective holding device to finish several fabricated bezels of the same dimensions. The same split mandrel can also be adapted into an efficient tool for setting multiple round faceted stones into those bezels.

Secure the modified split mandrel in a ring clamp. Insert a 3.5 mm ball bur into the No. 30 hand piece of a flex shaft and burr a hollow into the top center of the mandrel, cutting to a depth of about 2.0 mm. Follow with a 2.5 mm ball bur, centering and burring to a total depth of around 3.0 mm. You will create a void that provides clearance for the pavilion and culet of each stone to be set.

	Further modification of the split mandrel for setting is required. Using two ball burs, create a clearance for the pavilion during setting.
The total depth of the bezel must be at least 4.0 mm to accommodate the depth of the stone when set. Choose a finished bezel and position it on the mandrel. Secure the mandrel in a ring clamp. Measure the stone to be set and select the proper size setting bur. You will be cutting the depth of the bearing so that the top of the bezel flange is no less than 50 percent of the crown height. Cut the bearing and check the fit of the stone to make sure it is level and at the correct depth for setting.

	The depth of the bearing should be 50 percent or more, depending on the cut and proportions of the stone.
Remove the mandrel and bezel from the ring clamp and tighten it in the hand piece on your flexible shaft. While spinning the hand piece, use a file to bevel and reduce the thickness of the bezel flange. Clean any debris from the bezel and place a small amount of wax in the bearing to help hold the stone during the setting process. Pack and level the stone.

The bezel contact should be no less than 10 percent of the crown distance, which is the dimension along the surface of the crown from girdle (0%) to table (100%). Rotate the hand piece as you use a burnisher to apply pressure to the beveled edge of the flange, pushing the metal over the stone. Look closely to make sure there is complete 360 degree contact against the crown.

	The amount of metal burnished over the crown should be 10 percent or more of the crown distance.
The completed bezels are ready to become a part of your fine jewelry creations. If the stones you use can take heat, the bezels can be soldered into jewelry by the traditional torch method. If they are vulnerable to heat, use a laser welder to set the bezels in place. @chapter:28


Publication Year: 1990 Title: Gemstone Enhancement and its Detection in the 1980s Abstract: The impact that enhancements had on the gem market in the 1980s may be unparalleled in the history of the industry. Heat treatment brought hundreds of thousands of carats of blue and fancy-color sapphires and rubies to the trade, irradiation turned literally millions of carats of white topaz into attractive blue stones, and the filling of surface-reaching separations introduced an entirely new variable to the evaluation of color and clarity in diamonds. One of the key challenges to the gemologist during this decade was the identification of these and other enhancements. This article reviews the enhancements that were introduced or played a major role during the 1980s, focusing on their detection by standard gemological techniques. @chapter:29


Publication Year: 2017 Title: Dyed Quartzite Imitation of Ruby-in-Zoisite Abstract: Figure 1. Green to dark green and pinkish purple to dark purple dye concentrations were observed in the fissures and structure of this quartzite, which resembled ruby-in-zoisite. Photo by HyeJin Jang-Green; field of view 9.61 mm.

The New York laboratory recently received a bracelet composed of translucent multicolored beads that closely resembled ruby-in-zoisite. Standard gemological testing of one of the round beads (measuring 8.33 × 8.17 mm) revealed an refractive index (RI) of 1.55 for both the purple and green areas (instead of approximately 1.76 or 1.69 for ruby and zoisite, respectively) and very weak red to inert fluorescence in long-wave and short-wave ultraviolet light, respectively. Microscopic observation revealed fissures and a translucent aggregated/grainy structure, both of which contained green to dark green and pinkish purple to dark purple dye concentrations (figure 1).

Although most of the translucent green and purple aggregate material we encounter for identification is ruby-in-zoisite, the gemological features of this bead were inconsistent with our expectations. Raman spectra were collected to confirm the identity. Spectra from both the purple and green areas matched quartz (figure 2). Since the material was an aggregate, we concluded that it was dyed quartzite.

Figure 2. Raman spectra collected from the sample’s purple and green areas indicated quartz rather than ruby and zoisite. Spectra are offset for clarity.
The Lab Notes section has documented many cases of dyed quartzite imitating jadeite, ruby, lapis lazuli, and sugilite (Spring 1986, pp. 49–50; Summer 1991, pp. 122–123; Summer 1995, pp. 125–126; Summer 1998, pp. 131–132; Spring 2001, pp. 62–63; and Fall 2003, pp. 219–220). But this is the first example we have seen of quartzite being used to imitate ruby-in-zoisite. This dyed quartzite provides an intriguing example for consumers to be aware of when purchasing ruby-in-zoisite. @chapter:10


Publication Year: 2015 Title: Rare Type IIb Gray-Purple Diamond Abstract: Figure 1. This 1.42 ct type IIb natural diamond was significant for its unusual Fancy gray-purple color and its strong emission at 776.4 nm under PL spectroscopy. Photo by Robison McMurtry.

Photoluminescence (PL) spectroscopy using several laser excitations has become the most important method for determining diamond color origin. Part of PL analysis is observing peaks that correlate with a diamond’s color, type, or other gemological properties, but for which the physical model is still unknown. One such center is the PL peak at 776.4 nm, which is commonly observed in type IIb diamonds with intensely colored (i.e., Fancy to Fancy Deep) blue to gray color and in combination with red phosphorescence (S. Eaton-Magaña and R. Lu, “Phosphorescence in type IIb diamonds,” Diamond and Related Materials, Vol. 20, No. 7, 2011, pp. 983–989). Recently, the Carlsbad laboratory tested a 1.42 ct colored diamond that showed an extremely strong 776.4 nm emission. Infrared absorption spectroscopy confirmed the specimen as a type IIb natural diamond with a boron concentration of approximately 28 ppb. This stone was notable not only for this intense emission, but also for its Fancy gray-purple color (figure 1). This is an extremely rare combination in a type IIb diamond.

Type IIb diamonds sometimes have a violet color description, but they rarely exhibit hues that are outside the blue-gray-violet range. While the perceived difference between a violet and purple diamond may be quite subtle, it is an important distinction when determining color origin. An additional reddish component that distinguishes purple from violet diamonds is extremely rare among type IIb fancy color diamonds. Other type IIb hues include gray-green or yellowish green (e.g., Summer 2009 Lab Notes, p. 136; Spring 2012 Lab Notes, pp. 47–48). Purple diamonds are quite rare and almost exclusively type Ia, their color deriving from the 550 nm band observed in their visible absorption spectra (S. V. Titkov et al., “Natural-color purple diamonds from Siberia,” Spring 2008 G&G, pp. 56–64). This absorption band is also the cause of color for many pink to red diamonds; however, the absorption spectrum for this diamond was featureless within the visible range, which is typical for type IIb diamonds. This stone is likely the first purple type IIb diamond examined at GIA.

Figure 2. With 514 nm excitation and liquid-nitrogen temperatures, the 776 nm PL peak
dwarfs the diamond Raman peak at 552.4 nm and all other PL features in the spectrum.
The intensity ratio between the 776 nm peak and the diamond Raman peak is about 42:1.
The diamond had the strongest 776.4 nm PL emission yet observed by the author (figure 2). The configuration of the optical center is unknown but might include a boron-vacancy complex (T. Ardon and S. Eaton-Magaña, “Spatial distribution of boron and PL optical centers in type IIb diamond,” 2013 GSA Annual Meeting). Red phosphorescence, centered at 660 nm, was observed using DiamondView and excited by both ultraviolet and visible-light wavelengths using fluorescence spectroscopy. The 776.4 nm PL peak is observed when the diamond is at liquid-nitrogen temperatures, but it is outside the visible range and not excited at room temperature. Therefore, this near-infrared emission, while strong, does not contribute to the color of the diamond. The diamond’s red phosphorescence, while subtle, may have been sufficient to introduce enough reddish component to render a purple color call (as opposed to the more common blue to violet). The singular occurrence of the very strong 776.4 nm PL peak and an unusual bodycolor for a type IIb diamond make this stone notable. @chapter:11


Publication Year: 1987 Title: Summer 1987 Gem News International Abstract: Diamonds
            Largest California Diamond Found
Colored Stones
            Brazilian Alexandrites
            Large Ekanite Found
            Chinese Marble Tiles
            “Conch Pearl” Substitute
Announcements
            Historical Jewelry from Two Collections
            Fashion Institute Symposium
            Proposed Gemstone Cut Classifcation
            Kenya Gemstone Dealers Association

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:7


Publication Year: - Title: Books: The Cheapside Hoard: London's Lost Jewels Abstract: By Hazel Forsyth, 272 pp., paperback, illus., publ. by Philip Wilson Publishers, London, 2013. £19.95.

                      Written to accompany the Museum of London's exhibition of the Cheapside Hoard jewels (October 11, 2013 to April 27, 2014), this book gives the reader a unique glimpse into the world of the Elizabethan jewelry trade. Author Hazel Forsyth, the museum's senior curator of medieval and post-medieval collections, says this book is not a catalog but instead provides the reader with some context of the gem and jewelry trade in late 16th- and early 17th-century London. It also explores and illustrates some of the most beautiful jewels of this era, jewels that were found in what is known as the Cheapside Hoard.

The book begins with the 1912 discovery of the hoard during the renovation of a building in the Cheapside area of London. The story itself is like a detective novel, involving shady characters and intrigue. Forsyth has done exhaustive research to bring it to light. The book is illustrated with period documents, drawings, and paintings. The thorough research into both the 1912 discovery and London’s 16th- and 17th-century jewelry trade will delight historians. The beautiful photos of the pieces highlight both the wonderful gems in the hoard and the unique settings created by Elizabethan and Jacobean jewelers. This book is a great resource not only for jewelry historians but also for anyone who has an interest in gems from this period.

The Cheapside Hoard, a treasury of nearly 500 pieces, is the most important collection of jewelry from this era. Forsyth takes the reader on a journey to the days when these jewels were created, exploring the gem trade in London and around the world. Exotic locations from which the gems originated, such as Persia, India, and Colombia, are interwoven in stories of the secretive and sometime dangerous gem trade. Also discussed are the guilds and the leading characters in the industry at the time. The reader is introduced to politics and disputes that took place within the trade through the court and guild documents cited by the author. The craftsmen’s workshops and tools are also described in detail.

Not only are the jewels beautifully illustrated, but the period paintings throughout the book show how they were worn. It is said a picture is worth a thousand words. To learn that a bodkin is a hair ornament is informative, but to see it worn in a 1617 portrait of Anne of Denmark illustrates the point even better. Earrings, rings, necklaces, cameos, and more are seen in period portraits throughout the book. The photos of the gems and jewels show the exquisite craftsmanship of the pieces in this collection. The enamel work, gold work, and imaginative settings of these pieces capture the reader's imagination.  They are of the highest quality from this period.

The most impressive piece in the Cheapside Hoard is the watch encased in a large hexagonal-cut Colombian emerald. The dial, with gold roman numerals, is made of green enamel to match the emerald’s color. The lid of the watch case is also solid emerald and is translucent enough to see the face and tell the time even when it is closed. It is truly a masterpiece of watchmaking and stone-cutting design.

The Cheapside Hoard: London's Lost Jewels is recommended to anyone who enjoys historical jewelry, the history of European trade, or beautiful gems. It is a chance to see precious artifacts with mysterious and intriguing stories, artifacts that give a glimpse into a bygone era. @chapter:21


Publication Year: 2024 Title: New regulations for importing diamonds and diamond jewelry into the United States Abstract: Towards the end of February 2024, the U.S. Customs and Border Protection (CBP) issued guidelines for the importation of diamonds and diamond jewelry, effective from Friday, March 1, 2024. Companies must have certified documents on company letterhead in PDF format for diamond imports into the United States.

Each shipment requires one set of documents with the following statements:

1. For non-industrial diamonds weighing 1 carat or more, the document must certify: "I certify that the non-industrial diamonds in this shipment were not mined, extracted, produced, or manufactured wholly or in part in Russian Federation, notwithstanding whether such diamonds have been substantially transformed into other products outside of the Russian Federation."

2. For diamond jewelry and unsorted diamonds (unsorted diamonds refer to diamonds that have not been polished), the document must certify: "I certify that the diamond jewelry and unsorted diamonds in this shipment are not of Russian Federation origin or were not exported from the Russian Federation."

These certified documents must be uploaded to the Automated Commercial Environment (ACE) Document Image System, an electronic platform of CBP for diamond trade.

CBP's new requirements align with the guidelines set by the G7 countries, of which the United States is a member. These guidelines were established in a meeting in December 2023 with the goal of banning the import of Russian diamonds to member countries. CBP has set a "sunrise period" from March 1, 2024, to August 31, 2024, to allow stakeholders time to comply with these regulations and the new rules that will start on September 1, 2024. Additionally, the regulations will be expanded to cover finished jewelry, lab-grown diamonds, and watches, with a reduction in the weight threshold for diamonds from 1 carat to 0.5 carats.

The new provision has altered the previous regulations of the CBP, which defined that any goods substantially transformed in any country shall be considered as originating from that country, making that country the country of origin. This regulation has become a loophole allowing the import of diamonds from Russia into the United States to continue, despite President Joe Biden issuing an executive order in March 2022 prohibiting the import of diamonds from Russia.

This time, the regulations regarding the import of diamonds from Russia will also be extended to include the import of fish and seafood from Russia under the same conditions. CBP will announce this regulation later.

Additional information, comments, and recommendations from Scott Leeson.

The data on the import of diamonds into the United States from 2021 to 2022, ranked by import value, the top 15 combined accounted for 98% of the total diamond imports of the United States. These top importers include India, Israel, Belgium, South Africa, Botswana, Switzerland, Hong Kong, France, the United Arab Emirates, Namibia, Angola, Canada, Thailand, Mauritius, and the United Kingdom. Thailand is one of the countries with the highest import value to the United States, second only to Hong Kong, France, and Angola, with a growth rate of 161.1% in imports to the United States, totaling $111.7 million.

The additional regulations regarding the import of diamonds and diamond jewelry originating from Russia are as follows, in addition to the existing laws governing diamond trade in the United States:

1. **Kimberley Act**: This act imposes sanctions on conflict diamonds or blood diamonds imported from certain countries such as Sierra Leone, Angola, and Liberia. Importers must comply with the Clean Diamond Act, which includes the following key provisions:

   - Official notification of importation.
   - Possession of a Kimberley Process certificate, with a requirement to submit a copy of this certificate to CBP and the U.S. Census Bureau during importation, and to retain the original documents for 5 years.

2. **Patriot Act**: Primarily aimed at preventing money laundering and economic terrorism, the Patriot Act imposes additional regulations on traders of jewelry and gemstones importing goods into the United States:

   - Formal entry notification is required for the import of diamonds, jewelry, pearls, and gemstones valued at $2,500 or more (Formal entry).
   - An import license is not necessary for importation for commercial purposes, but a customs bond (CBP Form 301) is required for importation.
   - Diamonds, pearls, and other gemstones in their raw or unprocessed state from countries with trading relationships with the United States can be imported duty-free, provided the correct 11-digit U.S. Customs tariff code is specified. However, if they are processed into jewelry, they are subject to import duties.

Scott Leeson recommends that those interested in exporting jewelry and gemstone products to the United States should study the import regulations and monitor changes in U.S. import regulations to prevent potential issues. This advice is based on information gathered from various sources and presented to the general public. Some parts may include personal opinions. The Office of the U.S. Trade Representative in Los Angeles compiled and disseminated this information for interested parties. The use of this information, in any case, depends on individual judgment. The Office of the U.S. Trade Representative in Los Angeles is not responsible for any damages that may result from the use of this information. @chapter:30


Publication Year: 2023 Title: Rock Crystal with Cross Inclusion Exhibiting Brownian Motion Abstract: Figure 1. A rock crystal pendant measuring 48.5 × 31.2 × 8.8 mm with a white cross inclusion. Photo by Tsung-Ying Yang.

Figure 2. The white cross inclusion in the rock crystal contained this two-phase inclusion, in which the bubble had a diameter of approximately 2 μm and exhibited Brownian motion. Photo by Shu-Hong Lin; field of view 65 μm.
Recently, the authors encountered a transparent faint yellow pendant with a striking white cross inclusion (figure 1). Raman and Fourier-transform infrared spectroscopy identified the pendant as rock crystal. Microscopic observation revealed that the white cross was composed of numerous two-phase inclusions measuring less than 20 μm. One of the two-phase inclusions contained a gas bubble with a diameter of approximately 2 μm (figure 2) that was found to exhibit Brownian motion due to the influence of water molecules (see video below). Brownian motion refers to the unstable random movement of microscopic particles in a fluid, caused by continuous bombardment from molecules of the surrounding medium. This motion becomes more pronounced as the particle size decreases, fluid viscosity lowers, and temperature increases. Brightfield illumination, polarized light, and optical zoom techniques were used to obtain the photomicrographs.

	Two-Phase Inclusion Exhibits Brownian Motion @chapter:13


Publication Year: 1983 Title: Investigation of a Cat's-Eye Scapolite from Sri Lanka Abstract: A cut gemstone with intense chatoyancy that originated from Sri Lanka was determined to be a member of the scapolite solid-solution series. Indices of refraction and unit-cell dimensions were found as ω = 1.583, ε = 1.553 and a = 12.169, c = 7.569 Aº respectively; a meionite content of 69% was established by microprobe analysis. The chatoyancy is caused by needle-like inclusions with an orientation parallel to the c-axis of the scapolite host crystal. Microprobe analysis of these needles showed them to be pyrrhotite. @chapter:13


Publication Year: 2014 Title: Shattuckite from the DRC Abstract: Figure 1. These intense blue shattuckite specimens are from a recent find in the Democratic Republic of Congo. Photo by Brett Kosnar; courtesy of Brett Kosnar, Kosnar Gem Co.

              At the Tucson Gem and Mineral Show, Brett Kosnar of Mineral Classics (Black Hawk, Colorado) exhibited rare specimens of shattuckite from the Democratic Republic of Congo. A new find of this intense medium to dark blue copper silicate (figure 1) occurred in the Kambove District in October 2013. The mineral has a Mohs hardness of 3.5 and is used for cabochons and carvings. Shattuckite has been reported from various African and European sources, as well as copper mines in the American West. The type locality is the Shattuck-Denn mine in Bisbee, Arizona (R. Bowell and R. Cook, “Connoisseur’s Choice: Shattuckite: Kunene District, Kaokoveld, Namibia,” Rocks & Minerals, Vol. 84, November/December 2009, pp. 544–550).

Kosnar’s Congolese shattuckite is being stabilized prior to jewelry manufacturing. He plans to debut cabochons of this very limited material at Tucson in 2015. @chapter:3


Publication Year: 1983 Title: Spring 1983 Gem News International Abstract: Diamonds
            Australia: Argyle Diamond Sales Ltd Will Market Argyle Stones
            Belgium: Imports into Antwerp Increase
            Botswana: New Sorting Headquarters Opened
            China: Discovery of 96.94-ct. Stone
            Guinea: Production Scheduled to Start
            Israel: Net Imports Rise
            Japan: Customs Duty on Polished Diamonds Abolished
            Portugal: Report on Illicit Trading
            Singapore: Polishing Plant Completes First Year
            South Africa: Large Diamond Recovered
            U.S.: Crater of Diamonds State Park
            Venezuela: Annual Output Dropping
Colored Stones
            Cat’s-eye Chrysoberyl Discovered in Zimbabwe
            New Equipment Improved Cutting Efficiency of Emeralds
            Japan’s Export of Pearls Decreased
            Amethyst Deposit Discovered in Brazil
            Discovery of another Rare Taaffeite
            Irradiated Topaz from Brazil
            Southern California Mine Produces Many Colors of Tourmaline
            Synthetic Ruby Will Soon be Marketed
Tucson, 1983

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:24


Publication Year: 1988 Title: Gemstone Irradiation and Radioactivity Abstract: With the increasing use of radiation to color enhance gemstones, the issue of radioactivity has become a source of concern for gemologists worldwide. This article examines the basic characteristics of radiation and radioactivity, the sources of radiation in the earth and in the laboratory, the radiation treatment of gemstones in particular, and the detection and measurement of radiation. Also included is a discussion of potential health hazards and current government regulations regarding gemstone radioactivity. @chapter:17


Publication Year: - Title: Jason Dow, 2013 JCK Rising Star Abstract: View Gallery

Background

	Originally from Denver, Colorado, I had amazing teachers in high school who taught metalsmithing and jewelry classes. That’s really what got me started, but I didn’t really think about jewelry too much again until I needed to be passionate about a lifelong career.

	I graduated from the University of Hawaii in 1996 and attended the University of Colorado School of Dentistry from 1998-2001. Three years into the program I decided I wasn’t going to be happy as a dentist so I moved to San Diego and went to GIA in Carlsbad. I knew I wanted to design and work at the bench and earned my Graduate Jeweler diploma in December of 2002.

	I took full advantage of everything GIA had to offer. I spent every day either in class or in the library reading books and taking notes, watching videos, attending seminars and lectures, etc. I read and absorbed everything I could – a daunting task considering how large and extensive the library and resources are at the Carlsbad Campus. I probably only made quite a small dent.

	I worked at a few different local San Diego jewelry stores trying to get experience as a bench jeweler then landed a job back in Hawaii with Maui Divers Jewelry, a large retail chain complete with its own factory. In three years I worked my way up to senior designer goldsmith and learned a tremendous amount about designing for production. I also got to learn and practice more advanced techniques, including CAD/CAM.

	I launched my own design line in 2008 and began selling through local jewelry stores as Jason Dow, Inc.

The Design Process

	It doesn’t take me long to come up with a concept, but the details always slow me down. I’m a little bit meticulous about how I like things to look, so I’ll obsess about something for quite a while. I also love to shelve something I’m working on and come back to it later – I always seem to be inspired to make it better.

	My whole challenge in designing is really very simple. As a person of dual ancestry (half Chinese and half Irish/English) I have roots in two different worlds and cultures that can often clash. My goal is to create designs that integrate ancient Asian motifs with more modern and Western concepts, which are reflected in my collections.

Lotus Collection: For thousands of years the flower of the lotus plant has been known for its hypnotic, celestial beauty and unsurpassed as a floral religious icon. A symbol in many Eastern cultures, the lotus corresponds to purity of body, speech and mind, floating above the muddy waters of desire and attachment. Eight distinct petals possess great luck, and for me, the eight Hawaiian Islands.

Mandala Collection: The word “Mandala” is from the classic Indian language of Sanskrit. Loosely translated it means “circle”, but it represents far more than a simple shape. Long embraced by Eastern teachings, it is a symbol of wholeness and a model of the structure and balance of the universe. The Mandala Collection was inspired by the power of meditation and serves as reminder that the importance of life lies in the process of creation.

Tattoo Collection: Inspired by the Henna tattoos covering beautifully adorned Indian brides, the Tattoo collection both makes a statement and is extremely comfortable to wear. Like a second skin, the designs elegantly cover your fingers and wrists without hindering your active lifestyle.

Favorite Gemstones and Metals

	I love, love, love high-karat gold and moonstones. I’m also infatuated with diamonds, of course.  Really though, there are so many gemstones out there I haven’t had a chance to work with yet … I’m excited to try to eventually work with them all.

Motivation

	I love the challenge of design. I’ve never found anything more challenging and rewarding than this. I love being excited to go to work every day – as long as I get exercise in between – I rarely ever get tired of what I am doing. There are always new ideas to explore, so hopefully I’ll never ever suffer from boredom.

	Jason Dow. Photo provided by Jason Dow. @chapter:36


Publication Year: 1990 Title: Gem-Quality Cuprian-Elbaite Tourmalines from São José Da Batalha, Paraíba, Brazil Abstract: Unusually vivid tourmalines from the state of Paraiba, in north eastern Brazil, have attracted great interest since they first appeared on the international gem market in 1989. This article describes what is known of the locality at this time, but focuses on the most striking characteristic of the se gem tourmalines: the unusual colors in which they occur. Quantitative chemical analyses revealed that these elbaite tourmalines contain surprisingly high concentrations of copper, up to 1.92. wt. % Cu (or 2.38 wt. % CuO). Their colors are due to Cu2 + or a combination of Cu2 +, Mn3 +, and other causes. Some colors can be produced by heat treatment, but most also occur naturally. @chapter:5


Publication Year: - Title: Non-Bead-Cultured Pearls from Pinctada margaritifera Abstract: Gray to black cultured pearls from the Pinctada margaritifera mollusk, commonly referred to as "Tahitian pearls," are in great demand globally. These often have striking overtones or secondary hues such as green, pink, purple, or a combination of colors. The majority of commercially produced Tahitian pearls are from French Polynesia. They are typically bead cultured, but some non-bead-cultured (NBC) pearls also occur as a by-product and are very marketable in their own right.

A new report from GIA's Bangkok laboratory, "Non-Bead-Cultured Pearls from Pinctada margaritifera," examines a set of 120 NBC samples stated to be of Tahitian origin. Internal structures were examined using real-time microradiography (RTX) and X-ray computed microtomography (µ-CT). The authors also recorded the samples' UV-Visible, Raman, and photoluminescence (PL) spectra.

The results appear to indicate that these NBC pearls were cultured in Pinctada margaritifera mollusks, or at least were formed from mantle that incorporated the genes of this mollusk. The authors note that the various spectra and internal structures recorded in the study will provide valuable reference data on NBC pearls. @chapter:14


Publication Year: 2023 Title: Special Hair-Like Inclusions in Quartz Abstract: Figure 1. “Rabbit hair” quartz samples with different colors. Photos by Shuqian Rui.
“Rabbit hair” quartz is a commercial variety of quartz with special inclusions. These inclusions resemble rabbit fur and are shorter and thinner than the typical rutile, tourmaline, or other acicular inclusions found in sagenitic quartz. To explore their internal features, nine rabbit hair quartz samples were classified according to the color of their inclusions (figure 1): red (R1–R4), yellow (Y1 and Y2), and white (W1–W3). The white rabbit hair quartz is rarer than the other colors.

Figure 2. A: Fibrous inclusions in red rabbit hair quartz (sample R1). B: Needle-like inclusions in yellow rabbit hair quartz (sample Y2). C: The tubular inclusions in white rabbit hair quartz (sample W1). Photomicrographs by Shuqian Rui; fields of view 0.71 mm (A), 0.91 mm (B), and 1.26 mm (C).
Microscopic observation shows slight variation between the different colors of these hair-like inclusions. In the red rabbit hair quartz, massive curved red fibers are distributed evenly. They are mostly brownish red and less than 1 mm in length (figure 2A). The bright yellow needle-like inclusions are distributed regularly but with some localized disorder. Some of the disordered parts form divergent bundles (figure 2B). The white inclusions seem to be hollow tubes, measuring approximately 1–2 mm (figure 2C).
Raman analysis identified the inclusions in samples W1, R1, and Y2. The hollow tubes in sample W1 with peaks at 208, 266, 355, 405, 465, 810, and 1083 cm–1 are the characteristic peaks of quartz. The fibrous red inclusions in sample R1 with peaks at 246, 295, 412, 612, and 1319 cm–1 are hematite. The yellow inclusions in sample Y2 with peaks at 305, 394, and 694 cm–1 are goethite.

Figure 3. The secondary electron images of the oblique section of the hollow tubes, outlined in yellow (sample W1). Images by Jinyu Zheng.
The freshly exposed surface of sample W1 was observed by scanning electron microscope (SEM). Figure 3 shows the secondary electron images; the pits are oblique sections of exposed hollow tubular inclusions (left), and the morphology of parallel sections of hollow tubes can be observed as grooves (right). In the pits, SEM with energy-dispersive spectrometry indicated that the main composition was SiO2, and no other impurity minerals filled into the hollow.
Fibrous hematite inclusions present in this study are rare in quartz, and their formation is likely related to the growth conditions (I. Sunagawa, Crystals: Growth, Morphology and Perfection, Cambridge University Press, Cambridge, 2005, p. 61). White hollow tubular inclusions might be the corroded product of hydrothermal fluids or weathering. In these processes, mineral inclusions were etched away, leaving the hollow tube with its original shape (Winter 2007 GNI, p. 370–373). However, the origin of yellow rabbit hair quartz still needs further research. @chapter:13