Publication Year: 2015 Title: Books: Exotic Gems, Volume 3 Abstract: By Renee Newman, softcover, 136 pp., publ. by International Jewelry Publications, Los Angeles, 2014, US$19.95.

	Renee Newman has created a niche for herself writing guides on different gem materials. Each one has been fact-filled and extremely useful as a buying guide for the general public and gem industry professionals alike. Exotic Gems, Volume 3: How to Identify, Evaluate, Select and Care for Matrix Opal, Fire Agate, Blue Chalcedony, Rubellite Indicolite, Paraíba and Other Tourmalines is the latest book in her Exotic Gems series.

	“Exotic gems” are defined by the author and Merriam-Webster’s Dictionary as “gems that are of foreign origin and/or strikingly, excitingly or mysteriously different or unusual.” The gems Newman discusses in this volume are certainly all of the above, and designers are using increasingly unusual materials to fabricate unique pieces of jewelry that reflect the individuality of their clients.

	The book begins with a helpful chapter that describes pricing factors and explains why a particular gem is priced the way it is. With the use of excellent photographs, the value factors for different cuts and saturations are pictured in great depth to help explain the variances in price. Comparisons like this are mentioned throughout the book relative to each gem discussed, each with pictures to reinforce the concept.

	Each gem type is described and discussed in its own chapter. In the case of tourmaline, there is a general chapter on the group, where the major species are listed along with their (complex) chemical formulas. Subsequent chapters are devoted to the various colors of tourmaline, where the proper terminology (e.g., verdelite for green, indicolite for blue) is clarified. A photographic journal of sorts, with captions and tips by master cutter John Bradshaw of Coast-to-Coast Gems, is included so that the importance of the rough’s orientation and the cutting process are properly understood.  Terminology of the different colors of tourmaline (i.e. verdelite for green, indicolite for blue) is discussed and clarified. Following chapters on Paraíba and other copper tourmalines are meticulous descriptions of the history and sources of blue to green tourmalines; pink and red tourmalines; yellow, orange, and brown tourmalines; and multicolored tourmalines (including bi- and parti-color and phenomenal varieties). Tips on evaluation and care are given for each color group. It is truly amazing how much valuable information has been condensed into such an easy format.

	The chapter on blue chalcedony contains identification information, accompanied by many photos that exhibit beautiful designs using this unsung gem. Geographic localities follow and include Malawi; Namibia; Indonesia; Mexico; Washington, Montana, California, and Oregon in the United States; and British Columbia in Canada. Assessing the quality of blue chalcedony is discussed, covering hue, tone, saturation, transparency, uniformity of color, clarity, cut quality, and sometimes size and locality. Stability and treatments are listed, followed by a section on care of the material.

	Lovers of the elusive fire agate will be pleased to find an informative chapter on this gem. History, deposits, and price factors precede an excellent section on the cutting of this material. Photos and captions by master cutter Ryszard Krukowski of Fire Agate Art Studio explain exactly why so much expertise on the part of the lapidary is required to bring out the magic in the material. Tips on care of the finished product follow.

	Matrix opal is the last gem addressed in this guide. Newman explores Queensland boulder, Yowah and Koroit, Andamooka, Mexican, and Honduran opal. The type and amount of material within matrix can dictate enormous differences in price. Generally, Queensland boulder opal commands higher prices than other types of matrix opal so locality can make a difference. The amount or absence of play-of-color, and the type of background the opal is viewed against, can also influence value significantly. Generally, the dark and black body tones are the most prized, because those colors provide a greater contrast to the play-of-color.

	One of the most noteworthy aspects of Newman’s many gem-related books is her use of photographs to illustrate quality and showcase modern designs that effectively and beautifully utilize the materials. Details on locality, treatment of material, and care tips are always well researched.

Exotic Gems, Vol. 3 belongs in the library of gem and jewelry appraisers as a quick and easy reference to the relative value factors of the stones discussed, and is also relevant for those who are lovers of unusual gem materials. @chapter:22


Publication Year: - Title: Appreciation for Art, Antiques Leads to Love of Jewelry Abstract: April Matteini earned her GIA Graduate Gemologist diploma in 2000. Courtesy of April Matteini.

	April Matteini’s passion for the decorative arts has propelled her from European museums to Miami showrooms.

	Matteini, the regional director for Skinner, Inc. in Florida, says her love of art and antiques took hold at an early age, so she studied furniture, paintings, sculpture, and silver in Florence, Italy after earning her Bachelor of Fine Arts from St. Lawrence University in New York.

	Her skills in circa dating and cataloging paved the way to her first job with Skinner, Inc. in Boston, where she cataloged antique and estate jewelry for four annual auctions. Next, she joined the Northeastern powerhouse J & SS DeYoung, a fifth-generation family firm specializing in rare, unique jewelry and gemstones.

	“Handling so many incredible pieces was what sparked my love for diamonds and gemstones – I knew then I wanted to earn a Graduate Gemologist (GG) diploma to make those foundations stronger and enhance my career opportunities,” says Matteini, a Massachusetts native.

	She found a kindred spirit in Joe Samuel, a former member of the GIA Board of Governors, as she began to work toward her GG diploma to take her career “to a higher level.”

	“I was mentored by Mr. Samuel, who was incredibly supportive and encouraged my gemological studies,” she says. “I was a distance education student before the Internet, and he encouraged me to attend lab classes in New York and Boston, and use all of the office laboratory equipment for my homework.”

	Though “diamond grading and its terminology felt like mastering a new language,” Matteini persisted and earned her GG diploma in 2000. She soon saw that the benefits of her education extended further than she expected.

	“I find GIA is not only an industry standard, but recognized by consumers as a name they can trust,” she says.

	Matteini and her family – her husband, Francesco, and their two children – relocated to South Florida in 2005, and the self-avowed “New Englander at heart” discovered that as an independent appraiser, her new clients’ jewelry collections had a different flair.

	“Miami is a vibrant, multicultural city,” she says. “Big, colorful, statement pieces are everywhere. I don’t see as much small, antique jewelry in Miami as in the Northeast. That said, big or small, I find the same sentimental attachment and love of jewelry everywhere.”

	Matteini embraced the “fantastic weather” and big personality of her new home, and joined her local GIA Alumni chapter. In 2011, she began her tenure as president of the GIA Alumni of South Florida.

	The group has “joined forces” with the local AGS Guild, she says, and together they “form one organization that serves local industry professionals with high-level educational meetings and networking events.” Recently, for example, they brought Cigdem Lule and Stuart Robertson – fellow GG’s, and experts from GemWorld – from Chicago to present the group with their workshops on corundum and cultured pearls treatments and pricing.

	“Continuing education is the best way to ensure a competitive edge in this industry – access to current information is critical,” Matteini stresses. “Beyond classroom education, the relationships that develop from a GIA affiliation are an invaluable asset for building a successful business.”

	In addition to increasing professional development opportunities for GIA and AGS alumni in her area and her work with Skinner, she still enjoys the beauty and mystique that drew her to jewelry appraisal in the first place.

	Not long ago, a client brought her entire jewelry collection for Matteini to appraise, including a flea-market cuff bracelet that was “just along for the ride.”

	The $25 bracelet turned out to be a valuable piece signed by Art Smith, a leading mid-20th century modernist jeweler. It was very similar to a bracelet on the cover of the Brooklyn Museum’s retrospective exhibit on the New York City-based jeweler, and Matteini says the piece was “quite a nice return on her (client’s) investment.”

	This kind of find reminds Matteini of a key reason she pursued a career in antique and estate jewelry in the first place.

	“I have a tremendous appreciation for diamonds and gemstones, but I still love a jewelry mystery,” Matteini says. “If I can successfully research a hallmark or identify a signature for a client and let them know that their jewelry is not just special to them, but it’s valuable as well – I love that.”

	South Florida Alumni Chapter members with recent presenters, and fellow Graduate Gemologists, Cigdem Lule and Stuart Robertson of Gem World. (Back row: Luke Moorman, John Moorman; Front row: Debra LeVasseur, Joe Kientzy, Amy Walter, April Matteini, Cigdem Lule, Stuart Robertson) Courtesy of April Matteini. @chapter:34


Publication Year: 2023 Title: Ancient Script-Like Serpentine in Brown Peridot Abstract: Thread-like inclusions of serpentine resembling an ancient text. Photomicrograph by Le Ngoc Nang; field of view 2.50 mm.
Peridot is a green olivine often characterized by “lily pad” inclusions and high birefringence causing a doubling effect. Apart from its familiar green hue, peridot can also possess a brown color, though these gems receive little attention.
Recently, the author found a xenocryst of peridot from southeast Vietnam that appeared black in daylight and brown through a transmitted light source. Standard gemological testing of a cabochon (2.51 ct) and two faceted stones (2.35 and 4.65 ct) that were cut from this xenocryst indicated peridot, but the specific gravity and refractive index gave higher results than the values for green peridot. Finally, the Raman spectra confirmed the identification as peridot.
Microscopic examination did not reveal any typical “lily pad” inclusions. Instead, there were innumerable fascinating thread-like inclusions (see above). Some formed closed loops with round, oval, and distorted shapes measuring from a few nanometers to a millimeter. Others stretched or twisted together like tangled threads up to 2 mm long. The display was reminiscent of an ancient script. Micro-Raman spectral analysis revealed these thread-like inclusions were serpentine.
Examination of this brown peridot revealed an unexpected inclusion scene quite different from the common inclusions found in green peridot. @chapter:3


Publication Year: 2022 Title: Brilliance Exhibit at the Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County Abstract: Figure 1. Inside the vault room of the Brilliance: The Art and Science of Rare Jewels exhibit. Photo courtesy of the Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County.
A special exhibit of rare gems and minerals, entitled Brilliance: The Art and Science of Rare Jewels, was recently displayed at the Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County. The exhibit was available for viewing from December 8, 2021, through February 21, 2022, in the Gem Vault in the museum’s Gem and Mineral Hall (figure 1). Over one hundred spectacular objects—necklaces, bracelets, rings, earrings, and unmounted gems (many the creations of master jewelry designer Robert Procop)—were on display along with mineral specimens from the museum’s collection. Colorless and fancy-color diamonds, rubies, sapphires, emeralds, as well as color-change and asteriated gems and other spectacular specimens, were represented (figures 2 and 3). By allowing the public to view and appreciate these unique treasures, this museum event provided an understanding of how gems and minerals are used today in a variety of fields, from jewelry design to scientific research. Crystals of gem minerals represent products of some optimum conditions for natural mineral formation, and the study of rough and faceted gems is increasingly used by scientists today to better understand Earth’s history.

Figure 2. Left: The 46.39 ct Fancy blue Celeste diamond and a 100.92 ct colorless diamond were but two of the exquisite gems on display at the Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County. Right: This 108.03 ct blue sapphire from Sri Lanka is exceptional in terms of its clarity, color, and size. Photos courtesy of the Natural History Museum of Los Angeles County; courtesy of Robert Procop.

Figure 3. The 79.39 ct Royal Pink sapphire is, according to the designer, the largest vivid natural pink sapphire in the world. Courtesy of Robert Procop. @chapter:24


Publication Year: 2020 Title: A New Type of Rutilated Quartz Composite Product Abstract: Figure 1. Photos of the rutilated quartz taken in different viewing directions (top view on the left and side view on the right) showed that the sphere was half colorless and half brown. Photos by Shu-Hong Lin.
Rutilated quartz, which refers to natural quartz with rutile needle inclusions, is very popular in Taiwan’s mineral market. Merchants carve rutilated quartz into spheres rather than pendants or cabochons to get higher prices. The value of such spheres depends on the size of quartz as well as the abundance or appearance of its rutile crystals. Since large and well-formed rutilated quartz is quite rare, it is possible to make those of lower quality into doublets with top covers of glass or synthetic quartz.

Figure 2. The microscopic image of the brown part of the rutilated quartz sphere showed yellow, brown, and black mineral particles with an abundance of bubbles. Photomicrograph by Shu-Hong Lin.
Recently, a rutilated quartz sphere was sent to Taiwan Union Lab of Gem Research (TULAB) for certification service. Half of the sphere was colorless and transparent, while the other half was brown and semitranslucent (figure 1). The supplier had informed the client that it was a rutilated quartz polished into a sphere together with its host rock in order to retain the maximum size and the striking rutile inclusions. The colorless and brown parts had refractive indices of 1.54 and 1.55, respectively, and the fluorescence was inert under an ultraviolet lamp. Microscopic observation revealed that the brown part contained yellow, brown, and black mineral particles with a large number of bubbles (figure 2). The specific gravity was 2.35, which is much lower than the specific gravity of quartz. To further confirm the material of the sphere, the colorless and brown parts were analyzed with a Raman spectrometer. The results showed that the former was quartz, and the latter was mainly composed of epoxy resin and quartz (figure 3).

Figure 3. Stacked Raman spectra of the rutilated quartz sphere and epoxy resin revealed that the colorless part (A) was quartz (463 cm–1) and the brown part (B) was mainly composed of epoxy resin (peaks at 637, 822, 1113, 1182, and 1606 cm–1) and quartz. The spectra are baseline-corrected and normalized.
After a series of gemological tests, we concluded that this sphere could be defined as a new type of doublet or composite material of rutilated quartz, in which the brown part mistaken for host rock was in fact epoxy resin mixed with mineral powders. Due to the increasing demand for rutilated quartz spheres in Taiwan, this composite material may not be merely an isolated case. @chapter:13


Publication Year: 2016 Title: Unusual Growth Zoning in Beryl Abstract: Figure 1. This aquamarine, shown in plane-polarized light, has a dramatic secondary growth layer that is much more saturated in color than the crystal’s primary growth. Photomicrograph by Nathan Renfro; field of view 2.45 mm.

	An aquamarine crystal from Pakistan recently examined by the authors showed a rather dramatic inclusion scene in which several cracks were lined with a vivid blue coloration. We theorize that this relatively pale blue aquamarine developed cracks while in the growth environment. Subsequently, the nutrient solution may have shifted out of equilibrium with the beryl crystal, resulting in a relatively quick dissolution along the cracks. After some period of time, there appears to have been a modification of the nutrient solution and/or growth conditions in which precipitation of beryl became favorable once again. This second generation of growth had a distinctly different trace element composition, resulting in a strongly saturated blue coloration (figure 1) that made the boundary between the primary and secondary growth layers readily apparent (for previously documented examples of second-generation growth, see E. J. Gübelin and J. I. Koivula, Photoatlas of Inclusions in Gemstones, Vol. 2, Opinio Verlag, Basel, Switzerland, 2005, pp. 249–250). Chemical analysis by laser ablation–inductively coupled plasma–mass spectrometry (LA-ICP-MS) confirmed that both zones were in fact beryl and revealed elevated levels of iron in the dark blue layers, which accounts for their darker color (G.R. Rossman, “Color in gems: The new technologies,” Summer 1981 G&G, pp. 60–71). The trace elements Na, Mg, Sc, Ti, V, and Mn were also elevated in the dark blue areas. This dramatic change in chemical composition further supports our theory that there was a significant modification of the nutrient solution in the crystal’s growth environment. This striking specimen shows how complex and dynamic the “birthplaces” of gems can be. @chapter:19


Publication Year: - Title: Robert Shipley Jr. (1912–1982) Abstract: Prior to the 1930s, there were no instruments designed specifically for gem and jewelry professionals. Robert Shipley Jr., the elder son of GIA’s founder, changed all that with his genius for innovation.

Whereas the elder Shipley possessed the charisma of a born salesman, Shipley Jr. was a mercurial tinkerer who preferred to work behind the scenes in the laboratory. He left Kansas to join his father at the fledgling GIA in Los Angeles in 1933, quickly demonstrating his talent for lab work and instrument technology. He specialized in adapting existing optical instruments to the needs of the gemologist. Some of his early achievements included a 10× eye loupe, the first gem-testing polariscope, and darkfield illumination for examining gemstone inclusions.

In 1938 Shipley Jr. obtained GIA’s first patent, for a microscope that combined darkfield illumination with binocular magnification. Other instruments he developed included a pocket refractometer and a gemological polarizing microscope.

Shipley Jr. left GIA to serve in World War II. After the war, he founded an instrument manufacturing company that eventually became the GIA’s gem instruments division. He left the field of gemology and later formed a research laboratory that developed equipment for the fruit industry. @chapter:29


Publication Year: 2022 Title: Puzzle-Like Gemstone Designs Abstract: Figure 1. Trays of Steve Walters’s unique gemstone carvings displayed at the 2022 AGTA show in Tucson. Photo by Tao Hsu; courtesy of Rare Earth Mining Co.
At the AGTA show, Rare Earth Mining Co. (Trumbull, Connecticut) offered a vast array of fine and unusual gem materials unavailable anywhere else in the trade. Among the opalized wood, Tiffany stone, honeycomb petrified wood, and many other varieties was one of the most expansive Steve Walters collections seen at Tucson (figure 1).
While Walters himself did not attend the show this year, Rare Earth Mining Co. was eager to detail his work for us. A master gemstone carver specializing in one-of-a-kind gemstone designs in Utah, Walters has been in the business for more than 50 years. He creates his carvings for jewelry designers, to help them achieve a unique look.
Walters’s designs feature a perfect mix of traditional and exotic gemstones, expertly paired and carved to create a dramatic shape and color story. All done by hand, Walters uses titanium to bridge together and inlay the different gemstones.
Among the wide variety of gemstones used in Walters’s carvings were onyx; chrysocolla; tourmalinated and rutilated quartz; amethyst, citrine, and ametrine with striking color zones; rock crystal quartz backed with onyx and gold foil; lapis lazuli; various agates; Australian and pink opals; and meteorite. Every piece is finished with a mother-of-pearl backing with his signature (figure 2), ready to be set into a showstopping piece of jewelry.

Figure 2. Left: This citrine “flame” top is connected to a chrysoprase “main body.” Next to the chrysoprase is a portion made of a black chalcedony backing, covered by 24K gold leaf and capped by rock crystal quartz. The piece is completed with a freeform ametrine. Right: All pieces have a mother-of-pearl backing with Steve Walters’s signature. Photos by Kevin Schumacher. @chapter:26


Publication Year: - Title: Chapter Events Offer In-Depth, Exciting Experiences Abstract: Guests at GIA's reception at AGS Conclave celebrate the American Gem Society's 80th Anniversary.

                      Alumni across the world continue to amaze me with their commitment to excellence. It is so rewarding to hear from our members: excited words shared by new alumni who are thrilled with their new affiliation; chapter leaders who regularly extend themselves for the benefit of their members; or “lost” alumni who reach out to the Alumni office to reconnect after 10, 20 or even 30 years. One message is consistent: their GIA education experience has impacted their life and they want to know how they can discover and learn even more.

My answer remains a simple constant: Stay connected. Stay informed. GIA delivers public and continuing education opportunities regularly to alumni members, but please don’t forget to take notice of the work of our chapters. Exciting things are happening for our alumni around the world.

Since our last Alum Connect edition in March 2014, the alumni office is pleased to report:

Big GIA Alumni Association numbers: It’s time to celebrate!

		Active members: 99,000 plus

		Chapters worldwide: 70

		Chapters events so far this year: 74

Alumni Gathering at AGS Conclave: More than 250 alumni and industry dignitaries attended an event to celebrate our members and the American Gem Society’s 80th Anniversary.

GIA in New York: Many alumni and local chapter leaders attended an opening reception of the new GIA lab and campus location in the International Gem Tower in New York.

	Members of the Manhattan Chapter – Gail Brett Levine, secretary/treasurer;
	Irma Maria Davidson; Merle S. Koblenz, president; Delphine Leblanc; and
	Victor Hugo Garcia, vice president – at GIA’s new location in New York.

Baselworld, Hong Kong and JCK Las Vegas shows provided great opportunities for reunions, including meeting up with many alumni members and chapter leaders from Brazil, Canada, China, France, Germany, Italy, London, Peru, South Africa, Switzerland and the U.S.

Here’s some of the CHAPTER highlight news and events that have occurred in the last few months:

Spain – our newest chapter! – hosted a very successful first event, meeting at Mineralia 2014 exhibition in Seville, followed by a social.

	André Neves Bento, president of the Spain chapter, left, and Adolfo de Basilio at
	the chapter’s first event in Seville.

  Chapter milestones  : A round of applause to  Shanghai  for 25 years as a  registered society in perfect time to re-launch chapter activity.  Washington, D.C.  celebrates 30 years!

		Social gatherings brought  Houston , Malaysia,  Metro-Phoenix  and Toronto membe  rs together. Students from Shanghai joined alumni from   Hong Kong   at a dinner hosted during the Changsha Show in China.

  Safety and security   was presented by FBI and LA police department  detectives to the  Los Angeles  chapter.

  Author Renee Newman   presented a lecture o n “Exotic Gems” at the Golden Gate , Illinois/Indiana   and Wisconsin chapters.

Auction and jewelry history presentations at three chapters included: Alexander Eblen, from Leslie Hindman Auctioneers, at Minnesota -Twin Cities; a special preview at Heritage Auction Galleries for Los Angeles members; and Dr. Brenda Forman presented on “17th Century Diamonds and Pearls” at Washington, D.C.

Talks on minerals and gem mining history brought the gemological world together: John Rhoads on North America Gems and Minerals for Colorado, Mile High and Walter Goetz on the famous Montgomery Co. Gold Mining History in Washington, D.C. Members of the North Texas chapter were struck by the beauty of Dr. Rob Lavinsky’s gallery of exceptional minerals at their open house hosted at Arkenstone.

Watches, history, education and pricing were topics presented by experts Ken Specht, creator of the Specht Sheet, and Ed Faber, of Faber Galleries, in  Las Vegas  and Manhattan, respectively.

Demand for colored gemstone knowledge is up. AGTA’s CEO Doug Hucker presented   “The Colored Gemstone Revolution”   to the  Wisconsin  and St. Louis chapters. Pennsyl vania/Delaware Valley and South Flor ida hosted Adam Graham, CEO of Erica Courtney Jewelry, to talk on "Selling Color." Seattle, London, Golden Gate  and Ohio heard from gemstone experts and traders on the topics of mine to market, specialty gems and market sources  in Sri Lanka and East Africa.

Gemology, research and “hands-on” sessions were experienced during a lab visit in Manhattan, a gem identification challenge in Colorado, and a synthetic and treated diamond event in Michigan.

Jewelry design, lapidary and gemstone photography events featured jewelry designer Etienne Perret in San Diego; the art of gemstone carving in Washington, D.C.; a lapidary school visit by Middle Tennessee; and capturing the beauty behind the lens by GIA’s Robert Weldon in Metro-Phoenix.

Chapter travel – you’re invited!

The Malaysia chapter is going to Myanmar (formerly known as Burma) this fall and all global alumni are welcome to go exploring with them! This second International Alumni Gathering trip planned by the chapter encourages worldwide members to join. All interested parties should contact the Malaysia Chapter for more details, information or to let them know you are interested in joining. Act quickly, space is limited.

Mexico City chapter leaves this week for its latest Gemstone Safari excursion to the Sea of Cortez to visit pearl farms and experience the harvest.

Alumni News – take note!

		Join us to “Party at the GIA Gem Mine: Down Under” at the annual Tucson reunion, dinner dance and alumni auction to support the Alumni Endowment Fund on Feb. 6, 2015. Consider donating something related to this fun theme. For further donation information and to download a form, visit our web page.

I hope all of you who read this report are inspired by the committed alumni who are creating these opportunities for their fellow alumni members. And if you haven’t done so yet – get involved! To all our chapter volunteers and alumni members across the globe who plan and attend these continuing education opportunities, thank you. It’s your actions that drive our Alumni Association’s success. @chapter:33


Publication Year: 2005 Title: Mt. Mica: A Renaissance in Maine’s Gem Tourmaline Production Abstract: The Mt. Mica area in southwestern Maine has been mined for tourmaline and other pegmatite gems since the 1820s. Most tourmaline production occurred during the late 1800s to the 1910s, with occasional finds made from the 1960s to 1990s. Since May 2004, a new mining venture has produced gem- and specimen-quality tourmaline in a variety of colors. The faceted stones typically are yellowish green to greenish blue, although pink and bicolored or tricolored stones have been cut. Their gemological properties are typical for gem tourmaline. Chemical analysis shows that the tourmaline mined from pockets at Mt. Mica is mostly elbaite, with lesser amounts of schorl, rossmanite, and foitite. @chapter:1


Publication Year: 1987 Title: Fall 1987 Gem News International Abstract: Diamonds
            "Filled" Diamonds
            De Beers Botswana
            Large Diamond Auctioned
Colored Stones
            Iridescent Andradite Garnets
            Plasticized Emeralds
            Kunzite from Sri Lanka
            "Rainbow Moonstones" are Labradorite
            Phenomenal Quartz from Brazil
            Included Quartz from Mexico
            New Ruby Locality in Afghanistan
            Heat-Treated Pink Sapphires
            New Locality for Topaz
            Treated Cat's-Eye Zircons
Announcements
            1988 Tucson Gem & Mineral Show
            AIGS Announces Quarterly Newsletter

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:1


Publication Year: 2020 Title: Graphitic Cavities on Diamond Abstract: The laser cavities on the star facet (left) and in reflected light (right). Photomicrographs by Troy Ardon; field of view 1.5 mm.
An atypical series of graphitized cavities was recently observed on a star facet (see above, left) of a 0.45 ct near-colorless round brilliant diamond. The presence of graphite was confirmed with Raman spectroscopy. The observed residue surrounding the craters could have been the result of a lasering process.
Laser sawing is now the standard way to shape rough into blocked shapes for brillianteering and polishing, and laser drilling is used to treat internal inclusions. The laser marks were not the typical oscillating lines of manufacturing remnants. These remnants on extra facets or natural surfaces are usually left behind for a variety of reasons such as saving weight. Neither was there an associated internal inclusion, which one would expect if this were a treatment, though a shallow inclusion could have been completely removed by this lasering. The only other internal inclusion was a dark brown crystal on the opposite side of the table, which had not been treated by lasering.
Reflected light (see above, right) revealed a small “island” of the original facet left behind, evidence that many craters in close proximity joined together to form one larger cavity. This is also the reason it is suspected that this cavity system was caused by a laser as opposed to another thermal process, such as a jeweler’s torch. Something like a torch is unlikely to have left an intact section of the facet in the center of a burnt-out cavity. The fact that there were many connected craters does make these cavities seem intentional, though the purpose is not obvious. @chapter:31


Publication Year: - Title: Series of Articles on Rubies from Mozambique Abstract: View Gallery

Rubies from Montepuez, in northern Mozambique, have dominated the Thai market, the world’s major ruby trading center, since the discovery of this deposit in the spring of 2009. GIA has engaged in an extensive study of this material, culminating in October 2013 with the Bangkok laboratory’s most recent paper, “Rubies from the Montepuez Area.”

These specimens are quite different from those traditionally encountered in the market, such as the marble-type rubies from Mogok and Mong Hsu, whose strong fluorescent aspect is related to low iron content, or basalt-related rubies from Thailand and Cambodia, known for their low fluorescence due to higher iron content. Indeed, the new deposit in Montepuez is an amphibole-related deposit similar to those near Winza (Tanzania), M’Sawize (Mozambique), and probably the deposit near Didy (Madagascar), three other ruby deposits discovered fairly recently in Africa.

Amphibole-type rubies generally have higher iron content than those found in marble-related deposits  and lower iron content than those from basalt-related deposits. These nontraditional amphibole-type metamorphic stones fill the gap, in terms of chemical composition and appearance, between the highly fluorescent marble-type rubies and the weakly fluorescent basalt-related rubies familiar within the trade.

For gemologists, the fact that the rubies from Montepuez come from an amphibole-related deposit is fascinating. That’s because the combination of the inclusion scene, the chemical fingerprint, and the spectra associated with these stones usually distinguishes them  from rubies mined from marble- or basalt-related deposits.

Below are links to publications by GIA gemologists (in chronological order, starting with the most recent) about ruby mining in Mozambique, providing the most complete, up-to-date information on the subject.

GEMFIELDS INAUGURAL ROUGH RUBY AUCTION IN SINGAPORE
By A. Lucas, V. Pardieu
Released July 17, 2014
In June 2014, Gemfields held its first auction of rough ruby from Mozambique. GIA field gemologists went behind the scenes of this groundbreaking event for an insider’s look at the rough gemstone auction world.
Learn More

RUBIES FROM THE MONTEPUEZ AREA
By V. Pardieu, S. Sangsawong, J. Muyal, B. Chauviré, L. Massi, and N. Sturman
Released Oct. 15, 2013
In October 2013, GIA’s Bangkok lab produced a study of the samples collected during the September 2012 expedition. The study featured FTIR and UV-Vis spectra and chemical analysis of one reference sample from each of the four main ruby mining sites in the area. The study also included numerous inclusion photos that will enable the gemologist to more easily identify rubies from Montepuez.
Learn More

UPDATE ON RUBY MINING AND TRADING IN NORTHERN MOZAMBIQUE
By V. Pardieu and B. Chauviré
Published in Winter 2012 Gems & Gemology, Gem News International, pp. 309–311
In 2011, Gemfields acquired the ruby-producing area near Montepuez and began a major mining project. In the summer of 2012, a team of GIA gemologists visited the area to collect samples from the different mining sites for the GIA reference collection.
Learn More

FAPFH/GFF TREATED RUBY FROM MOZAMBIQUE: A PRELIMINARY REPORT
By V. Pardieu, N. Sturman, S. Saesaew, G. Du Toit and K. Thirangoon
Released May 11, 2010
During the spring of 2010, GIA gemologists began collaborating with a Thai gemstone burner who was working on the heat treatment of Mozambique rubies using borax additives. A very similar treatment had been used for about 20 years on Mong Hsu rubies.
Learn More

UPDATE ON RUBIES FROM MOZAMBIQUE
By V. Pardieu, P. Lomthong, J.B. Senoble, L.P. Bryl, and S. Jacquat
Published in Winter 2009 Gems & Gemology, Gem News International, pp. 302–303
A discussion of the November 2009 field expedition to M’sawize, Mozambique, within the Niassa National Reserve, to obtain ruby samples for the GIA research collection.
Learn More

EXPEDITION REPORT TO RUBY MINING SITES IN NORTHERN MOZAMBIQUE
By V. Pardieu, S. Jacquat, J.B. Senoble, L.P. Bryl, R.W. Hughes, and M. Smith
Updated Dec. 23, 2009
In 2009, GIA’s Bangkok lab led three field expeditions to the ruby deposits of Mozambique. During the second expedition, in November 2009, Vincent Pardieu was able to visit the deposit near M’Sawize village in the Niassa province. Finally, in December 2009, we were able to briefly visit the deposit near Montepuez and collect samples for the GIA reference collection.
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PRELIMINARY OBSERVATIONS ON NEW RUBIES FROM MOZAMBIQUE
By S. McClure and J. Koivula
Published in Fall 2009 Gems & Gemology, Gem News International, pp. 224–225
Results of gemological testing and EDXRF spectroscopy on 24 ruby specimens, received in two separate submissions, reportedly from several different deposits in Mozambique.
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RUBIES FROM THE NIASSA AND CABO DELGADO REGIONS OF NORTHERN MOZAMBIQUE
By V. Pardieu, J. Thanachakaphad, S. Jacquat, J.B. Senoble, and L.P. Bryl
Updated April 16, 2009
In early 2009, GIA's Bangkok lab released a preliminary study on Niassa province rubies, based on samples (reportedly from Niassa) collected in Chanthaburi, Thailand. In May 2009, less than a year after the arrival of rubies from Niassa on the market, a second important deposit was discovered near the city of Montepuez, in the neighboring province of Cabo Delgado. Mining activity rapidly increased, and rubies from Mozambique (unheated, heated or filled with lead glass) became very common in trading centers such as Thailand, as well as the U.S. and the rest of the world.
Learn More @chapter:5


Publication Year: - Title: Sapphire Care and Cleaning Guide Abstract: Corundum in all colors is a highly durable gemstone for use in jewelry. - Courtesy Pauling Blue Fire Diamonds, Carlsbad, California

Hardness and toughness
Gem and mineral hardness is measured on the Mohs scale. The numbers are based on the relative ease or difficulty with which one mineral can be scratched by another. But the Mohs scale is deceptive. The steps between the minerals are not evenly spaced. For example, diamond is only one number away, but it’s many times harder than gems in the corundum family.

Corundum (ruby and sapphire) is relatively hard—9 on the Mohs scale. It has excellent toughness and no cleavage, which is a tendency to break when struck. This makes it a great choice for rings and other mountings subject to daily wear.

	Sapphire ranks 9 on the Mohs hardness scale.

Stability
Corundum is stable under normal wearing conditions, which means it’s resistant to the effects of heat, light, and common chemicals. Boric acid powder will etch the surface of even untreated stones. Fracture-filled, cavity-filled, and dyed stones can be damaged by even mild acids like lemon juice.

Cleaning
Warm, soapy water is always safe. Ultrasonic and steam cleaners are usually safe for untreated, heat-treated, and lattice diffusion treated stones. Fracture-filled, cavity-filled, or dyed material should only be cleaned with a damp cloth.

Treatment and durability considerations
Untreated and even heat-treated sapphire is very durable.

Stones that have undergone lattice diffusion treatment have varying degrees of treated-color penetration. In some stones, the treated color penetrates the entire stone, while in others there’s very shallow penetration. Surface damage or re-cutting can remove the color from lattice diffusion treated stones with shallow color penetration.

Fracture-filled stones have surface-reaching fractures filled primarily with high-lead content glass.  The filler can be damaged through contact with a variety of chemicals. Even relatively mild substances like lemon juice can cause alteration of high-lead content glass.

The number of sapphires filled with high-lead content glass is much lower than the number of rubies. In some cases, the amount of glass filler in a sapphire can be quite extensive. Sapphires treated this way require greater care than untreated, heat-treated, or lattice diffusion treated sapphire. @chapter:17


Publication Year: 2006 Title: “Paraíba”-Type Copper-Bearing Tourmaline from Brazil, Nigeria, and Mozambique: Chemical Fingerprinting By LA-ICP-MS Abstract: Gem-quality bright blue to green “Paraíba”-type Cu-bearing tourmaline is now known from deposits in Africa (Nigeria and Mozambique), in addition to three commercial localities in Brazil (in Paraíba and Rio Grande do Norte States). Stones from these new localities have been mixed into parcels from the original Brazilian Paraíba occurrence. The Nigerian and Mozambique tourmalines that show saturated blue-to-green colors cannot be distinguished from the Brazilian material by standard gemological testing or on the basis of semi-quantitative chemical data (obtained by EDXRF analysis). However, quantitative chemical data obtained by LA-ICP-MS show that tourmalines from the three countries can be differentiated by plotting (Ga+Pb) versus (Cu+Mn), (Cu+Mn) versus the Pb/Be ratio, and Mg-Zn-Pb. In general, the Nigerian tourmalines contained greater amounts of Ga, Ge, and Pb, whereas the Brazilian stones had more Mg, Zn, and Sb. The new Cu-bearing tourmalines from Mozambique showed enriched contents of Be, Sc, Ga, Pb, and Bi, but lacked Mg. @chapter:5


Publication Year: 1987 Title: Spring 1987 Gem News International Abstract: Diamonds
            Cubic Zirconia Coated by Synthetic Diamond?
Tucson 1987
            Amber: Dominican Available in Large Amounts
            Aquamarine: Zambia Source for New Find
            Chalcedony: Very Fine Iris Agates for Sale
            Chrysoberyl: Very Fine Alexandrite Available
            Diamond: Major White and Colored on Display
            Euclase: Irradiation Produces Pale Green Color
            Fluorite: Beads Sold as “Multi-Color Amethyst”
            Garnet: Green Grossular Now Scarce
            Kornerupine: Cat’s-eyes Sold as Quartz
            Moonstone: “Rainbow” Variety from India
            Opal: Very Fine Australian Black
            Peridot: Available from New Localities
            Quartz: Remarkable African Specimen on Display
            Ruby: New Find of Gem-Quality Reported
            Sapphire: Large Amounts of Intense Pink Seen
            Scapolite: Large Faceted Intense Reddish Purple
            Spodumene: Specimens Offered as “Sheen Phenakite”
            Turquoise: Substitute Imported from Germany
            Zircon: Virtually Every Color Available

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:7


Publication Year: 2023 Title: The history of gemstones in Chanthaburi_20 Abstract: It is said that in Chanthaburi, gemstone deposits are found along the mountainsides and spread across various districts such as Mueang District, Tha Mai District, Khao Ploy Waen, Khao Sa Kaeo, and Bang Kacha. These areas mostly yield blue, green, and yellow gemstones. In Khlung District, Makham District, along the Khao Srabap range, and in Ban Bo Weru, blue and red gemstones can be found. @chapter:25


Publication Year: 2023 Title: Heated Purplish Pink Sapphire from Ilakaka (Madagascar) with Colored Monazite Inclusions Abstract: Figure 1. A 3.02 ct heated purplish pink sapphire measuring 9.57 × 7.74 × 4.55 mm. Photo by Ugo Hennebois.
The Laboratoire Français de Gemmologie (LFG) received a 3.02 ct purplish pink sapphire (figure 1) for identification. Under the microscope, zircon and monazite inclusions (figure 2) along with tubes (figure 3) were observed. This inclusion scene was characteristic of similarly colored sapphires from Ilakaka, Madagascar (W. Wang et al., “The effects of heat treatment on zircon inclusions in Madagascar sapphires,” Summer 2006 G&G, pp. 134–150; S. Saeseaw et al., “Low-temperature heat treatment of pink sapphires from Ilakaka, Madagascar,” Winter 2020 G&G, pp. 448–457). No indication of heating was observed. Moreover, the monazite inclusions were orange-brown. It was previously observed that monazite inclusions in pink sapphires turn colorless when heated above 600°C (see again Saeseaw et al., 2020).

Figure 2. A series of colorless zircon inclusions and orange-brown monazite inclusions in the heated purplish pink sapphire. Photomicrograph by Ugo Hennebois; field of view 1.5 mm.

Figure 3. Unaltered tubes in the heated purplish pink sapphire. Photomicrograph by Ugo Hennebois; field of view 2 mm.
Using Raman spectroscopy, the full width at half maximum (FWHM) of the band around 1010 cm–1 due to anti-symmetric stretching vibration SiO4 in the zircon structure and the band around 975 cm–1 due to PO4 stretching vibration in the monazite structure can decrease during heating of pink sapphires from Ilakaka (Wang et al., 2006; Saeseaw et al., 2020). The zircon and monazite inclusions were analyzed using a Raman Renishaw inVia spectrometer, with a 514 nm diode-pumped solid-state (DPSS) laser, with about 10 mW laser power on the sample, 50× long working distance objective lens, confocal mode (100 microns entrance slit), 1800 lines/mm grating, and about 1.5 cm–1 spectral resolution. The FWHM of the most intense band of seven monazite inclusions at around 975 cm–1 ranged from 12.7 to 14.2 cm–1, and those of 10 zircon inclusions at around 1010 cm–1 ranged from 6.4 to 7.8 cm–1. Both appeared to be sharper and less variable compared to FWHM in unheated pink sapphires, which present zircon inclusions with FWHM of the main band from 7.1 to 21.7 cm–1 and monazite inclusions with FWHM of the main band from 14.2 to 18.4 cm–1 (Saeseaw et al., 2020; M. Krzemnicki et al., “Zircon inclusions in unheated pink sapphires from Ilakaka, Madagascar: A Raman spectroscopic study,” Proceedings of the Online International Gemmological Conference, 2021, pp. 21–23; S. Karampelas et al., “Détection du traitement thermique à basse température des corindons,” Revue de Gemmologie a.f.g., No. 217, 2022, pp. 4–5).
Unpolarized Fourier-transform infrared spectra in different directions were collected using a Thermo Fisher Magna-IR560 with 4 cm–1 spectral resolution and 500 scans using a diffuse reflectance accessory as beam condenser. The sample presented a band at 3309 cm–1 and a less intense band at 3232 cm–1, which in pink sapphire is considered an indication of heating (Saeseaw et al., 2020). These bands are linked to different forms of titanium associated with hydroxyl defects in corundum (E. Balan, “Theoretical infrared spectra of OH defects in corundum (α-Al2O3),” European Journal of Mineralogy, Vol. 32, No. 5, 2020, pp. 457–467).
In line with previous experiments showing that monazite inclusions can keep their color after heating to 600°C (Saeseaw et al., 2020), the presence of colored monazite inclusions alone cannot serve as evidence that a pink sapphire from Ilakaka is unheated. On the other hand, the presence of colorless monazite inclusions in pink sapphires from Ilakaka could be considered an indication of heat treatment. @chapter:9


Publication Year: - Title: Yellow Gemstones: Can You Identify Them? Abstract: This 54.29 ct Fancy Intense yellow cushion cut diamond is accented with 67 cts of white diamonds and is set in 18K white gold. Courtesy of Chatila. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA

Sunshine, lemons and a variety of flowers share the color yellow and often evoke feelings of happiness, warmth and optimism. A variety of gemstones also come in shades of yellow, from diamonds to citrine to garnets.
Yellow diamonds are enduring in quality and value and popular set in jewelry. Yet a treasure trove of other yellow gemstones exists at reasonable price points. They can be found in light-toned shades to rich, warm hues.
The most plentiful yellow gemstones in the marketplace are citrine, sapphire, topaz, tourmaline, and transparent opal. Other varieties include yellow andradite garnet, spessartine and Mali garnets, beryl, sphene, zircon, spodumene and transparent varieties of labradorite and orthoclase feldspar. Less abundant or collectible yellow gems include chrysoberyl, sphalerite, apatite and prehnite.
Yellow Gemstone Challenge
Many yellow gemstones can resemble one another in color. Can you see the subtle differences in the yellow gemstone pairs? They appear similar, but are different species.

View Gallery

Yellow Diamonds
Yellow is the most abundant color of natural fancy diamonds, yet they still represent a very small percentage of all diamonds. The first major source of yellow diamonds was found in the late 1860s in Cape Province, South Africa, so in the jewelry trade, these yellow diamonds came to be known as “cape” yellow diamonds.

The cut fancy yellow “cape” diamond, front, is a gift of Safdico USA, Inc. The “cape” yellow diamond hexoctahedron rough, back, is a gift of the Sir Oppenheimer Student Collection. Composite photo by Orasa and Robert Weldon/GIA
“Cape” diamonds, according to the “GIA Diamond Dictionary,” are a Type Ia diamond with a distinct yellow body color that exhibits absorption that falls in a specific and defined pattern. (There is often a strong band at about 415.5 mm and a fairly strong one at 478.0 nm, with four weaker lines between the two.) Such diamonds may also fluoresce blue, yellow, or orange.
What is the cause of the yellow color in diamonds?
“In general, the presence of nitrogen atoms gives rise to two kinds of absorption in the blue region of the visible spectrum; the remainder of the spectrum is transmitted, leading to an observed yellow color,” according to GIA’s diamond color expert John King.

The color of this 9.05 ct Fancy Vivid yellow diamond is evenly distributed throughout the face up appearance of the stone. Courtesy of B. Najjar. photo by Robert Weldon/GIA
Canary is a historic term for a Type Ib fancy color intense yellow diamonds that is used to distinguish them from diamonds with a “cape” spectrum. Diamonds referred to in the trade as “canary yellow” are highly valued for their saturated yellow color.
Famous Yellow Diamonds

Schlumberger’s rosette necklace with ribbon clip features the famous Tiffany Yellow Diamond. Photo courtesy of Tiffany & Co.
There’s an inexplicable allure about diamonds that fascinates the gem lover. As early as 1676, accounts by the French traveler and gem dealer, Jean-Baptiste Tavernier, mentioned seeing a 137.27 ct yellow diamond that he referred to variously as the Florentine, the Austrian Yellow and the Grand Duke of Tuscany. Since then, many notable color diamonds have been given the elite distinction of famous diamonds, particularly as the appeal of color became widespread.
The Tiffany Yellow Diamond was acquired by Tiffany & Co. in 1878 and has been on display for more than 70 years in its flagship store in New York. Under the direction of Dr. George Frederick Kunz, it was cut from a 297.42 ct rough stone to its present cushion cut of 128.54 ct, one of the largest known fancy yellow diamonds in the world. GIA graded it in 1984.

The Allnatt, 101.29 cts, is a famous Fancy Vivid yellow diamond that improved in color and value by being recut. Photo by Shane F. McClure/GIA
The Allnatt, a yellow diamond thought to have originated from the De Beers mine in South Africa, is named for its former owner, Major Alfred Ernest Allnatt, a British soldier and noted philanthropist who purchased the diamond in the early 1950s.
The diamond next appeared at Christie’s Geneva auction in May 1996 weighing 102.07 ct with a color grade of Fancy Intense yellow. It was purchased and then recut to 101.29 ct to improve color and clarity, going from Fancy Intense to Fancy Vivid with an improved clarity grade to VS2.
The Allnatt is a classic example of early 20th century cutting styles used to retain maximum weight and enhance the color of a well-formed octahedral rough crystal.

The famous Kahn Canary Diamond is set in an 18K gold and platinum ring, designed and created by Henry Dunay, a prominent New York jeweler. The graceful billowy shape of the diamond was left uncut. Courtesy of the Stanley Kahn Family Collection, Pine Bluff, Arkansas. Photo by Harold & Erica Van Pelt/GIA
George Stepp, a logger from Carthage, Arkansas, found a yellow diamond crystal in the Crater of Diamonds State Park in Arkansas in 1972 and sold it to Kahn Jewelers in Pine Bluff, Arkansas, where it was left uncut to showcase its natural triangular pillow shape known as a macle crystal. “The Kahn Canary Diamond” weighs 4.25 carats and is internally flawless.
More than 33,000 diamonds have been found in the Crater of Diamonds State Park in Arkansas since it became a state park and opened to the public in 1977. The park has a “finders, keepers” policy that allows the public to dig for diamonds for a fee. @chapter:23


Publication Year: 2023 Title: Jewelry and Gemstone Trends from INHORGENTA MUNICH 2023 Trade Fair in Germany (Frankfurt Office). Abstract: Jewelry Trends for Special Occasions in 2566

Experts from the jewelry and gemstone exhibition industry in Germany have commented that 2566 will see a resurgence in wedding celebrations. Due to the COVID-19 pandemic crisis, over 100,000 weddings were postponed, with only 357,800 weddings held in 2564, the lowest number in German history according to statistics. However, there has been an increase in engagement requests, according to jewelry manufacturers' reports. This presents an opportunity in 2566 for the sale of wedding rings. European consumers often purchase wedding or couple rings valued between 1,000 to 4,000 euros, which remain popular in classic, luxurious designs made from precious metals like gold, white gold, and platinum.

Color Trend for 2566

The Pantone Color Institute has announced the new color trend for 2566 as "Viva Magenta," a tone resembling pigmented red, symbolizing a balance between warmth and coolness. Mrs. Leatrice Eiseman, the executive director of the institute, explained that this color trend represents courage, strength, vitality, excitement, and readiness for new adventures. This color tone can be seamlessly incorporated into jewelry, watches, and accessories designs. Designers and manufacturers such as Le Carré, Annamaria Cammilli, and Sabine Müller have already unveiled designs inspired by the Viva Magenta trend, showcasing vibrant and fitting pieces.

Environmental Certification for Jewelry

The FAIRMINED/FAIRTRADE label certifies jewelry made from responsibly sourced materials. FAIRMINED/FAIRTRADE is an organization that sets standards and certifies gold mines that operate ethically, with internal inspections to reduce the risk of human rights violations, social and environmental impacts. Those interested can verify certified gold mines on their websites fairmined.org and fairgold.org.

The certification for responsibly sourced gold began in 2009 with the "Standard Zero" set by the Alliance for Responsible Mining (ARM), which later collaborated with Fairtrade International to introduce the FAIRMINED and Fairtrade certified gold labels. However, in 2013, ARM and Fairtrade separated their certification processes, leading to two distinct labels: FAIRMINED and Fairtrade certified gold. These certifications aim to recognize gold sourced from socially, economically, and environmentally responsible mines. The standards cover aspects such as working conditions, environmental impact reduction, organizational development, and community development, ensuring no child labor, gender equality, and non-involvement in conflicts. @chapter:33


Publication Year: 1989 Title: Summer 1989 G&G Book Reviews Abstract: “Gemstones”
By Michael O'Donoghue, 372 pp., illus., publ. by Chapman & Hall, Ltd., London, 1988. US$50.00

“Channel Setting Diamonds”
By Robert R. Wooding, 136 pp., illus., publ. by Dry Ridge Co., Erlanger, KY, 1987. US$29.95

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:20


Publication Year: 2020 Title: Blue Inclusion in Rock Crystal Quartz Abstract: Figure 1. This 118.16 ct polished modified cube of rock crystal quartz contains an interesting tuft of blue needles, which may be tourmaline. Photo by Robert Weldon; courtesy of Mike Bowers.

Figure 2. This tuft of blue needles has nucleated on a quartz crystal and tapers toward the end opposite the core quartz crystal. Although too deep to be identified by Raman spectroscopy, the needles resemble light blue needles of tourmaline. Photomicrograph by Nathan Renfro; field of view 10.07 mm. Courtesy of Mike Bowers.
An interesting tuft of light blue needles was recently observed in a polished modified cube of rock crystal quartz (figure 1). The needles nucleated on a nearly invisible quartz crystal with the tuft tapering toward the opposite end (figure 2). When the tuft was examined looking parallel to the optic axis of the host quartz using cross-polarized light, the small included quartz crystal surrounded by the blue needles stood out in high relief due to the crystallographic misalignment with the host quartz. It was also interesting to note that the included quartz was perched at the apex of a twinned sector of the host quartz (figure 3). While the needles were located too deep within the quartz to conclusively identify with Raman spectroscopy, their appearance (in the author’s experience) suggests they may be pale blue tourmaline. This beautiful inclusion in rock crystal quartz is a striking example of a microfeature in a gem cut to showcase an inclusion.

Figure 3. When the host quartz is examined looking parallel to the optic axis, the core quartz crystal stands out in high relief and is interestingly located at the apex of a twinned sector of the host. Photomicrograph by Nathan Renfro; field of view 9.32 mm. Courtesy of Mike Bowers. @chapter:13


Publication Year: 2021 Title: Quarterly Crystal: Topaz with Phlogopite Abstract: Figure 1. This 216.56 ct topaz crystal is from Dusso, Pakistan. Photo by Diego Sanchez.

This issue’s quarterly crystal is a gem-quality very light pinkish brown topaz (figure 1) from the Dusso mine in Pakistan. The transparent singly terminated topaz crystal measures 30.52 × 29.84 × 27.89 mm and weighs 216.56 ct. It hosts a prominent 6 mm long dark brownish orange phlogopite mica booklet that shows strong brownish orange and yellow dichroism as well as lamellar cleavage planes (figure 2).

Figure 2. This prominent 6 mm crystal of phlogopite mica is hosted by the Pakistani topaz. Photomicrograph by Nathan Renfro; field of view 9.09 mm.
A tiny cluster of dark brownish red manganotantalite and colorless albite inclusions are also present. Small near-colorless and transparent mica and feldspar inclusions are randomly scattered throughout the crystal. This suite of inclusions strongly suggests that a complex granitic pegmatite was the parent rock type of this topaz. @chapter:13


Publication Year: - Title: Spinel Journey Abstract: Few people outside the gem industry realize the true nature of a gemstone’s journey from the mine to the counter of a store. Whether the gem is being offered to consumer’s at a traditional jewelry store’s counter, an internet shopping site, or a television broadcast the journey always involves a great deal of effort.  Tons of earth and countless hours of labor are needed to being a gem from mine to market. @chapter:28


Publication Year: - Title: The Spirit of Jadeite Carving Abstract: The classic jadeite cut is the cabochon. Some high-quality cabochons are worth a fortune. Photo by Eric Welch, ©GIA, courtesy of Mazu Jade Articleco., LTD

                      Jade is often considered synonymous with China. The country’s worship and appreciation of jade can be tracked back about 8,000 years. Nephrite dominated the jade trade until jadeite was first imported into China from across the border with Myanmar. Exactly when this happened is still very debatable, but most people agree that it was not later than the Ming Dynasty (around 1475).

For a long time, jadeite was traded mainly out of the palace. When the Empress Dowager Cixi ruled China at the end of the Qing Dynasty (1861 to 1908), she started to collect high-quality jadeite from all over the country to satisfy her own desires. This trend also swept over the whole royal family and the upper social class. By 1908, jadeite was already the most expensive jade sold in Beijing’s most famous antique market, Liu Li Chang. Jadeite and nephrite have shared high market status ever since.

	Three-dimensional jadeite carving: Shan Zi
It’s well known that jadeite can be shaped into different jewelry styles such as bracelets, rings, cabochons, and more, but China’s cutters also process this material into larger-scale decorations. These decorations are called “Shan Zi” in Chinese. “Shan” means hills or mountains, indicating that the jadeite was carved to preserve its original outline and shape. Compared to other methods, Shan Zi is probably the most natural way to process jadeite rough, but it is also the most expensive and time-consuming process.

There are also other ways to fashion jadeite. For example, some people slice jadeite rough into thin plates and then create cameos on the surface. This produces more-finished products from the same amount of material and can increase transparency as well.

Small pendants, decorations, and bracelets are typical products for the jadeite market. Photo by Eric Welch, ©GIA, courtesy of Mazu Jade Articleco., LTD
Carvers need relatively large materials with ideal outlines for carving Shan Zi. The rough was hard to find and transport, and multiple carvers had to work together for long periods of time to design and carve an individual piece. In the past, only the royal family or extremely rich people could afford Shan Zi, especially the largest carvings. The result is that, along with its use as decoration, Shan Zi is also a symbol of wealth and power.

This is a typical jadeite Shan Zi. The piece preserved the original shape and outline of the rough. A Shan Zi is usually carved in three dimensions. Its large size is impressive, even when viewed from a distance. Photo by Eric Welch, ©GIA, courtesy of Mazu Jade Articleco., LTD
Common Shan Zi themes include scenic views, plant life, traditional symbols, ancient famous paintings, and more. The choice of theme depends entirely on the shape and outline, and sometimes the color, of the rough material. The planning process and tools needed for 3-D carving originated with the carving of nephrite, as did theme selection.

High-quality jadeite is used to make 3-D carvings. When examined closely, this carving displays some precise details of individual characters. Photo by Eric Welch, ©GIA, Courtesy of Mazu Jade Articleco., LTD

	Acquiring the material
In June 2013, a group of GIA staff members visited one of southern China’s jadeite hubs. In Sihui, the authors were introduced to Mr. Zheng, the president of Mazu Jade Articleco., Ltd., and his close friend Mr. Fang, the president of Jingyu Mantang jadeite carving workshop. These two gentlemen warmly welcomed us and hosted our visit and showed us one of their ongoing carving projects.

They obtained the jadeite they were working on in 2004, at a public auction in Myanmar. It was separated from an even bigger jadeite boulder. They were not able to get the other half, which remained in Myanmar. The boulder they brought back weighed about eight tons, and they cut it into two pieces. One is now being carved to make a huge jadeite Shan Zi. The other part was further divided into three pieces to be carved into the three Chinese gods: Fu, Lu, and Shou.

Workers designed a special platform for this Shan Zi. The platform allows three carvers to work on the same side at the same time. The pencil sketch and some carving work have been completed. Photo by Eric Welch, ©GIA, Courtesy of Jingyu Mantang Jadeite workshop
When they purchased the rough, it had dark skin and a small window. When they brought it back and cut it open, they knew that they had won the auction gamble. The entire piece is full of purple and green colors. They built a special working platform to accommodate the three-ton segment along with the carvers. It will be carved into a jadeite Shan Zi. Mr. Fang told us that, to their knowledge, this is probably the largest jadeite Shan Zi in Asia.

Mr. Fang also pointed out that they would have profited more if they had used this material to make bangles, since bangles with full green or purple colors are usually worth several million RMB each. They could have produced a large number of bangles from this giant piece of rough. The reason they decided to make it into a Shan Zi was that, as an artist, Mr. Fang had always dreamed of finishing a masterpiece in his lifetime and both gentlemen sensed that this might be the opportunity to do it.

	Inspiration and theme selection
Mr. Fang is the chief designer of the piece. Working along with two other designers and six highly skilled carvers, it will probably take about five to six years to finish.

When asked about his design inspiration, Mr. Fang became very excited. This rough sat in the workshop from 2004 to 2010 because he could not find a suitable theme to base its design on. Then, in 2010, he attended the Shanghai Expo. In the China pavilion, he saw an amazing 3-D dynamic painting called Qingming Shanghe Tu (Along the River During the Qingming Festival). The 3-D painting inspired Mr. Fang, and he returned to Sihui the same day to plan the execution of this theme on his jadeite rough.

The original painting is full of people, which makes some of the carving detail extremely complicated. The finished product will show not only people’s individual facial expressions, but also the details of their clothing and even the jewelry they wear. Photo by Eric Welch, ©GIA, Courtesy of Jingyu Mantang Jadeite workshop
The original painting, Along the River During the Qingming Festival, is attributed to the great Northern Song Dynasty artist, Zhang Zeduan. It is 528 cm long and 24.8 cm high. It shows active scenes of life in Bianjing, the capital city during the Northern Song Dynasty. From 960 to 1279, China was the most developed and powerful country in the world. Mr. Fang loved the idea of using his favorite jadeite rough to represent the most prosperous period in China’s history. Since the original painting was too long to fit this jadeite, he decided to use its most eye-catching parts. The two main scenes are the city gate and the bridge.

The visiting team was shown the pencil sketch on the jadeite and some parts that have been worked on already. Mr. Fang also showed us the back of the rough, which will also be carved to represent parts of the painting.

In the room next to the workshop, progress was being made on the carving of the three gods: Fu, Lu, and Shou, made from a portion of the same rough material. The first pencil sketch has been finished. Mr. Fang pointed out that the design might be changed here and there as work progresses because jadeite color distribution is very complex and it can change within centimeters.

Part of the rough was divided into three pieces to carve the three gods, Fu, Lu, and Shou. Large statues like these are very rarely seen on the market. Photo by Eric Welch, ©GIA, Courtesy of Jingyu Mantang Jadeite workshop.
In Chinese culture, Fu is the god of happiness and good luck, Lu is the god of fortune and social class, and Shou is the god of longevity. Decorations with these three as the theme can be seen everywhere and are made of a variety of materials, including china and wood. In the past, almost every family had a set of the three in different formats or materials. According to Mr. Fang, the sizes of these carvings of the gods make them extremely rare. Also, the material being used is of abnormally high quality. This is another dream project he is working on at the same time as the main carving.

The god Lu is the symbol of good fortune and high social class. The sketch shows a lot of the details that will be incorporated into the finished product. Photo by Eric Welch, ©GIA, Courtesy of Jingyu Mantang Jadeite workshop

	A dedicated jadeite carver
Mr. Fang’s full name is Xingchun Fang. He was born in 1975 in Putian, Fujian province, which is a town that’s famous for its wood carvings. Mr. Fang began learning wood carving when he was very young. This gave him a very solid base in the art and led him to the world of jadeite carving later in his life.

Mr. Fang arrived in Sihui as a 17-year-old in 1992. He started his jadeite carving career as a worker in various workshops. He practiced jadeite polishing and simple carving techniques every day. Many people felt that the job was too boring and left, and Mr. Fang was one of the very few who stayed.

After a year or so, he opened his own small business, carving small pendants for dealers to sell. Although small pendants were the mainstream products on the market back then, Mr. Fang felt that it was not what he wanted to do as an artist. Finally, he successfully persuaded a dealer to let him make a small-scale 3-D Shan Zi for him. The dealer sold the product and made a good profit. This inspired more dealers to ask Mr. Fang to make large jadeite carvings for them.

With the development of his own business, Mr. Fang gradually gained the purchasing power to buy his own jadeite rough. After experiencing ups and downs, he finally got the business on the right track. In 2003, he started to collaborate with Mr. Zheng from Mazu. Mr. Fang was in charge of design. During their collaboration, Mr. Fang created many award-winning masterpieces that helped Mazu gain its fame and status in Sihui as the best jadeite carving company.

Mr. Fang introduces the ongoing project to the visitors from GIA. Photo by Eric Welch, ©GIA, Courtesy of Jingyu Mantang jadeite workshop
Although Mr. Fang left Mazu to form his own company, Jingyu Mantang, his friendship with Mr. Zheng never ended. Now Mr. Fang is heading toward his next dream: to turn his company into a museum of high-end jadeite carving and to attract the most skilled carvers from all over the country to come and work together.

As a successful young jadeite carving artist, Mr. Fang has always kept in mind that to become a great jadeite carver, one should have the same strong properties as jadeite. He also believes that there is a subtle connection between him and jadeite, and between him and his friends who share the same interests and passion. @chapter:25


Publication Year: 1984 Title: Fall 1984 Gem News International Abstract: Diamonds
            Australia: Indian Cutters Report Problems Working with Australian Diamonds
            Guinea: Aredor Diamond Mine Goes to Full Production This Year
            India: More Than 400,000 People Employed in Diamond Cutting in India
            Kenya: Government Issuing Geological Prospecting Licenses to Foreign Companies
Colored Stones
            New Molten Glass Filler Used to Seal Corundum Voids
            Update on Use of Borax in Heat Treatment in Thailand
            Gem Auction in Pakistan Raises Issues of Illegal Mining and Smuggling
            High-Grade Manganese Ore found in Orissa, India
            MMTC Activities in India Enumerated
            Zambia Cancels Emerald-Mining Contract with Saudi Arabian Company
Precious Metals
            New Platinum Prospect Located in East Transvaal, South Africa
            Ghana Plans to Resurrect Its Gold-Mining Industry
            Mitsubishi Metal Corp. Discovers Promising Gold Vein at Yatani Mine
            New Gold and Silver Reserves Discovered at Knob Hill in Republic, Washington
            Soquem and New Pascalis Mines Announce Gold Reserve East of Quebec
            Independent Miners in the Philippines Establish a Gold Town
            Plans Are Announced to Develop an Open-Cast Gold Mine in Southwest Zimbabwe
Synthetics and Simulants
            Jewelers Vigilance Committee Augments Rules on Pearl Definitions
            Iimori Lab Donates Five Interesting Glass Samples to Gems & Gemology
Announcements
            Two Major New Additions Help Mark the Centennial of the National Gem Collection
            Society of Jewellery Historians of the British Museum Announces New Annual Journal
            AGA 1985 Conference Will be Held February 4 & 5 in Tucson
            GIA Slide Library Solicits Labeled Slides of the World’s Gemstone Localities

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:24


Publication Year: 1993 Title: Reactor-Irradiated Green Topaz Abstract: Examination of samples of faceted "Ocean green" topaz reveals that this material has been irradiated in a nuclear reactor. An earlier reactor-irradiation experiment suggests that temperature conditions during the irradiation of this material may be higher than those used to produce typical "London-blue" topaz. Like such reactor-irradiated blue topaz, this material may be radioactive. In addition, the green color is not stable to direct sunlight. @chapter:2


Publication Year: 2017 Title: Imitation Cat’s-Eye Pen “Pearls” Abstract: Figure 1. With fiber-optic illumination, a sharp, bright pink chatoyant band extends across the surface of a 1.89 ct dark brown button-shaped imitation pearl perpendicular to its internal fibrous structure. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA.

	Chatoyancy is an optical phenomenon commonly seen in gemstones that have an abundance of parallel solid or hollow long acicular inclusions in which an eye-like band is produced when viewed in strong light. Fine cat’s-eye gemstones of various mineral species are prized; however, natural chatoyancy in pen pearls would be an extraordinary occurrence. During a recent study on reportedly non-nacreous pearls from the Dr. Eduard J. Gübelin Collection, the author found three dark brown button-shaped samples stated to be from a Pinna species mollusk. All three samples displayed an attractive cat’s-eye effect when illuminated under a fiber-optic light or any single white light (figure 1). In each specimen, the chatoyant band manifested as a single bright pink line extending across the surface in a direction perpendicular to the internal fibrous structure.

	Evidence of human manipulation includes fine linear features present in random directions across cellular structures; these are proof of work carried out during the fashioning of the samples into cabochons. Microscopic examination revealed the fibrous structure as numerous well-formed, minute parallel acicular crystals. Infrared spectroscopy subsequently confirmed the crystals to be calcite. The calcite was arranged in a vertical columnar orientation rather than in a radial and concentric structure characteristic of non-nacreous Pinna (pen) pearls, which led to further doubts concerning the “pearl” identity of the samples.

	Microradiography of all three samples revealed tight internal structures. The obvious radial structures that would be expected in pen pearls were not observed (N. Sturman et al., “Observations on pearls reportedly from the Pinnidae family (pen pearls),” Fall 2014 G&G, pp. 202–215). Based on its external and internal features, this material was almost certainly the same type of imitation pearl previously reported in G&G (Winter 2011 GNI, pp. 330–332).

	Fluorescence images taken of one specimen using a polarizing microscope and an ultraviolet excitation filter with a wavelength range of 330–380 nm (figure 2, left) reveal a prominent banded structure at right angles to the calcite columns. When viewed at right angles to their lengths under the same conditions, the long, thin calcite crystals reveal a hexagonal cross-section, creating a striking mosaic or cellular pattern (figure 2, right). The cells varied in form, and their approximate diameters ranged from 15.50 to 38.00 microns.

	Figure 2. Fluorescence images reveal banded features, typical of shell, at right angles to the vertical columnar structure of the calcite crystals (left). A mosaic pattern (right) is apparent looking down the hexagonal cross-section of the calcite columns. Photomicrographs by Artitaya Homkrajae; fields of view 2.88 mm and 1.44 mm, respectively.

	These samples were appealing for the magnificent kaleidoscopic colors that were seen using fiber-optic illumination (figure 3). The semitranslucent to translucent nature of the crystals allowed light to pass through and produce vibrant, colorful scenes owing to the interference of the light rays that were reflected and refracted when interacting with the crystals. As one can see, exploration of the micro-world is not only important to forensics—it can also be quite beautiful.

	Figure 3. Under fiber-optic light, magnificent reflective kaleidoscopic colors of pink, yellow, and green are revealed from the well-formed acicular calcite crystals after mineral oil is applied to the sample’s surface. Photomicrograph by Artitaya Homkrajae; field of view 3.57 mm. @chapter:40


Publication Year: - Title: Dealing in Lapis Lazuli from Afghanistan Abstract: Sam NaseriGlobal Gems

Interview with Sam Naseri, Global Gems
Mr. Naseri grew up in the lapis trade, working in his father’s business as a young boy. Born in Afghanistan, he rightfully claims a deep knowledge of this gem of his native land.

He starts by showing off his company’s best-quality lapis lazuli samples and describing their various component minerals and grades. His company sells rough, but also makes spheres, carvings, beads, and other items from this lovely blue material.

The best royal blues come from only two mines in the world—in Chile and Afghanistan, with Afghanistan the preferred source. Mr. Naseri explains that older material—from a mine that’s no longer in operation—is of much higher quality than newer material. It’s now extremely rare, and in great demand among gem buyers and consumers.

Surrounded by his company’s product, he demonstrates the entire range of lapis quality. He sprays one of his high-quality samples with water, which brings out its desirable features, then holds two spheres of different grades side by side. He explains that lapis has good hardness, making it easy to polish with the right equipment. Buyers look for as much usable area as possible when buying rough.

When asked how lapis lazuli gets from mine to market, he says it’s carried by cars, horses, humans, mules—any transportation available at the moment. Global Gems sells in the US and internationally. Customers include designers, inlayers, and makers of jewelry and beads. Larger specimens are used for high-end patio and tiling projects.

This series of interview segments reveals a man with a true love for, and deep knowledge about, the beautiful and exotic gem he trades in. @chapter:22


Publication Year: 2012 Title: Characterization of Colorless Coated Cubic Zirconia (Diamantine) Abstract: Over the past several years, diamond simulants have entered the market that consisted of colorless cubic zirconia reportedly coated with a thin layer (e.g., represented to be 30–50 nm) of nanocrystalline diamond particles embedded in a matrix. One manufacturer, Serenity Technologies (Temecula, California), has marketed this material as Diamantine. SIMS chemical analysis of samples obtained from Serenity in October 2009 indicated a very thin (~5 nm) film of carbon (along with Al and Ti) on the CZ surface. Durability tests performed in conjunction with SEM imaging demonstrated that the thin coating does not completely withstand typical gemstone cleaning and handling procedures. The only standard gemological technique that could establish the presence of a coating was EDXRF spectroscopy, which detected Ti from the adhesion layer deposited on the CZ during the initial part of the coating process. @chapter:11


Publication Year: 2016 Title: Examination of the Largest Canadian Diamond Abstract: With the first major discoveries made 25 years ago, diamond mining in Canada is relatively new. The Diavik mine, located in the Northwest Territories about 300 kilometers (190 miles) northeast of Yellowknife, began production in 2003. Today Diavik is Canada’s largest diamond mine by volume, producing approximately six to seven million carats of gem-quality diamonds annually. Much has been reported about Diavik’s extensive efforts (see the lead article of the Summer 2016 issue) to ensure the long-term protection of the land, water, and wildlife that are integral to local traditions and daily life in the Northwest Territories.

	Adding to the significance of the Diavik mine was the spring 2015 recovery of the largest rough diamond ever found in Canada. GIA’s laboratory in New York recently had the opportunity to study this historic stone. The rough weighed 187.66 ct and measured 36.96 × 32.99 × 16.80 mm. Under standard color grading lighting conditions, it appeared pale yellow (figure 1). One side of the diamond displayed clear iridescent color banding due to light interference along the cleavage planes (figure 2, left). The stone showed irregular morphology, with a tabular shape, and was dominated by cleavage faces. Some original faces with dissolution pits were clearly visible (figure 2, center).

Figure 1. This pale yellow type Ia “cape” diamond from the Diavik mine, weighing 187.66 ct, is the largest Canadian diamond to date. Photo by Sood Oil (Judy) Chia.

	When observed under a gemological microscope, the irregular surface etching limited our ability to see clearly into all areas of the diamond. A dark mineral inclusion was noted near one side of the rough (figure 2, right), but little else was readily apparent. Crossed polarizing plates did not reveal any areas of strain. The stone exhibited moderate blue fluorescence to long-wave UV radiation and faint yellow fluorescence to short-wave UV; no phosphorescence was observed. Absorption spectroscopy in the infrared region revealed that it was a type Ia diamond with a very high concentration of nitrogen. A weak hydrogen-related absorption at 3107 cm–1 was also recorded. UV visible absorption spectroscopy, performed at liquid nitrogen temperature, showed typical “cape” lines, with clear absorption peaks at 415 and 478 nm. No other absorption was detected in the UV-Vis region. These gemological and spectroscopic observations confirmed that this was a natural, untreated diamond.

	Figure 2. Iridescent color can be seen along the cleavage plane on one side of the stone (left). Dissolution pits are observed on the surface of the yellow rough (center), and a dark mineral inclusion is clearly visible near the surface (right). Photomicrographs by Kyaw Soe Moe; field of view 14.52 mm (left), 4.79 mm (center), and 7.19 mm (right).

	The diamond, named the Diavik Foxfire, will undergo further scrutiny during the cutting process, in which it will be carefully designed, shaped, faceted, and polished. It will be interesting to see if the rough yields a significant main diamond or is cut into several smaller gems. @chapter:35


Publication Year: 1984 Title: Identifying Gem-Quality Synthetic Diamonds:  An Update Abstract: The existence of gem-quality synthetic diamonds and their potential impact on the marketplace has long been a source of concern to gemologists and gem dealers the world over. While we do not know whether cuttable gem-quality diamonds have been synthesized in other nations, we do know that the General Electric Company has successfully synthesized cuttable gem-quality diamonds in the United States. Eight of these diamonds were studied in an attempt to determine means of identifying them using standard gemological tests. Sophisticated chemical and X-ray diffraction analyses and spectrophotometric and ferromagnetic studies were also performed. Distinctive inclusions, absence of strain in polarized light, electrical conductivity, and absence of both an absorption spectrum and a reaction to long-wave ultraviolet radiation were found to be useful indicators. Magnetism was also found to be a positive basis for separation but is not practical for the jeweler/gemologist. @chapter:31


Publication Year: - Title: Designer Shares her Jewelry Inspirations Abstract: Paula CrevoshayJewelry Designer

	Interview with Paula Crevoshay, Jewelry Designer
Paula Crevoshay’s one-woman exhibit of her jewelry designs at the Carnegie Museum in Pittsburgh speaks for her esteemed status in the jewelry world. In this GIA exclusive interview recorded at the 2013 Tucson Gem Show, she speaks for herself and her art in eloquent and compelling detail.

Her exhibit (and companion book), Garden of Light, puts her creations on full, colorful display, and here in the video she talks about her creative process. Holding a bedazzling jeweled butterfly in hand, she explains how she most often begins with a center stone—in this case a raw natural pearl. She meditates on it until a vision begins to take shape and form in her mind. Then she begins to incorporate stones that match in sheen and luster and maximize play of color. Crevoshay is proud to wear the crown of “Queen of Color” that admirers in the jewelry industry have placed on her. It fits, she says, because from the beginning of her career she saw herself as a painter who uses gemstones for her color pallet.

Though much the self-described dreamer, Crevoshay is not without a practical side. She relies on such scientific gemological elements as refractive index and Mohs’ scale in making her fanciful choices. And she is not above substituting, say, a chrome oxide for an emerald in order to make an item more price-friendly for a client.

Still, in the end, Paula Crevoshay is an artist, and holds to the artist’s creed that the most important thing in pursuing a vision is to keep it true to yourself and distinctive from all others. @chapter:16


Publication Year: 2017 Title: Negative Crystals in Sapphires Abstract: Figure 1. A beautiful iridescent rosette pattern made up of flattened negative crystals appears around the primary negative crystals when illuminated by oblique fiber-optic lighting. Photomicrograph by Victoria Raynaud; field of view 1.07 mm.

	Negative crystals, or cavities within a crystal, and fluid inclusions occur in almost every mineral. They are generally too small to notice without high magnification, but these modest features hold great beauty and scientific value. These microscopic features are valuable to understanding the growth of continents, the rise of mountains, and the formation of gems. The following photos show beautiful examples of such inclusions in sapphires from the Baw Mar mining area in Mogok, Myanmar. Some of these fluid inclusions are arranged in a “rosette” pattern consisting of a large flattened negative crystal surrounded by smaller ones. This structure is always seen perpendicular to the c-axis (figure 1). The larger primary inclusions like those seen in figure 2 are characterized by their high relief and may display triangular growth markings as well as beautiful iridescence under oblique fiber-optic illumination. Other negative crystals associated with healed fissures are observed in random orientation. The smaller, more delicate fluid inclusions in these structures have a smoother outline, while the fingerprints themselves are often associated with the primary negative crystals.

	Figure 2. These two large primary fluid inclusions containing a black solid phase are associated with fingerprints that have a variable orientation. The photo was taken along the c-axis in darkfield illumination. Photomicrograph by Victoria Raynaud; field of view 1.07 mm.

	The multiphase inclusion in figure 3 contains a gas, a liquid, and at least one solid. When the specimen was gently heated by the microscope’s well light, the gas and the liquid homogenized. Raman spectroscopy identified the gas phase as pure CO2 and the opaque solid as marcasite. Using the same method, we also identified diaspore fibers, seen as faint lines in the inclusions, and a miniscule siderite crystal. Although fluid inclusions are common in most blue sapphires, the examples from Baw Mar reveal these fascinating inclusions in an appealing way.

	Figure 3. Left: A large fluid inclusion containing a CO2 gas bubble and a marcasite crystal. The primary inclusion is surrounded by smaller inclusions that make up a healed fissure. Right: When the sample was gently heated, the gas bubble disappeared as the gas and liquid homogenized. The sample is illuminated using diffused backlighting. Photomicrographs by Victoria Raynaud; field of view 1.20 mm.

	These photos were taken as part of a research project to document the blue sapphires from the Baw Mar mine. The complete report of this study can be found at https://www.gia.edu/gia-news-research/blue-sapphires-baw-mar-mine-mogok-myanmar. @chapter:19


Publication Year: 2000 Title: A New Lasering Technique for Diamond Abstract: A new laser treatment for diamonds, which typically does not have a surface-reaching drill hole, recently entered the trade. For a better understanding of this new technique, observations were made on several round-brilliant-cut diamonds before and after treatment. Diamonds with dark inclusions near the surface are favored for this new method, which causes small cleavages to develop or expand around an inclusion. Once the cleavage reaches the surface, it serves as a conduit for the solution that is used to bleach the dark inclusion. Irregular, wormhole-like channels are used to widen the cleavage to facilitate entry of the bleaching solution. @chapter:31


Publication Year: 2017 Title: 75th Swiss Gemmological Society Conference and European Gemmological Symposium Abstract: The 75th Swiss Gemmological Society (SGS) Conference and 6th European Gemmological Conference (EGC) were held together in Zermatt, Switzerland, June 30–July 1, 2017. Set at the Grand Hotel Zermatterhof, the conference featured 24 renowned speakers delivering a diverse, high-quality program.

Following the welcome address from SGS president Hans Pfister, the first presentation was from Klemens Link (Gübelin Gem Lab, Lucerne, Switzerland) on a new system for age determination of emeralds using laser ablation–inductively coupled plasma–mass spectrometry (LA-ICP-MS). This system provides useful geographic origin information for the gemstone’s owner and high-quality data for scientific research. Ulrich Henn (German Gemmological Association, Idar-Oberstein) surveyed gems from central Namibia, starting with the discovery by German tin miners of tourmaline in Usakos in the early twentieth century. Bernhard Berger (Cartier, Paris) gave a 170-year history of Cartier, with special reference to the 1,800 pieces in the Cartier Collection. Alan Hart (Gem-A, London) delivered an illuminating talk on the Koh-i-Noor diamond from the British Crown Jewels, including its original cutting style prior to recutting in 1852.

Martin Rapaport (Rapaport, New York) was in typical energetic form for his keynote lecture on the state of the diamond industry, in which he highlighted the role of the gemologist. He suggested that gemologists create great value for the trade and should charge twice as much for their services, drawing applause. Vincent Pardieu (VP Consulting SPC, Bahrain) presented on gemstones from East Africa. The challenge and opportunity for the future, he said, would be to balance gem discoveries and conservation, especially with new finds in and around Africa’s national parks. Thomas Hainschwang (GGTL Laboratories, Balzers, Liechtenstein) spoke on GGTL’s initiative to characterize treated diamonds. The aim is to create the most complete data set of natural-color versus treated-color diamonds. Alan Hodgkinson (Scottish Gemmological Association, Edinburgh) pondered the underappreciation of zircon, quoting Basil Anderson’s description of them as “the most mysterious of gemstones.” Henry Hänni (GemExpert GmbH, Basel, Switzerland) presented “sannan skarn,” an ornamental gemstone from Pakistan that resembles maw-sit-sit and was introduced at the September 2016 Hong Kong show. Guillaume Chautru (Piaget, Geneva) spoke on the importance of gemological testing from a jewelry and watch manufacturer’s point of view. Michael Krzemnicki (SSEF, Basel) detailed SSEF’s inclusion research and their new laser ablation–inductively coupled plasma–time of flight–mass spectrometry (LA-ICP-TOF-MS) capability. Michael Hügi, scientific committee chairman of SGS, presented the gems of Switzerland, especially the quartz that became works of art in the hands of European lapidaries from the 14th century onward. The guest of honor at the gala dinner, former Swiss president Adolf Ogi, gave an amusing talk on his career in politics.

The next morning, Hanco Zwaan (Netherlands Gemmological Laboratory, Leiden) discussed the characterization and formation of Sri Lankan metamorphic sapphires. Andrey Katrusha (New Diamond Technology, Russia) detailed the impressive results NDT has achieved in only three years of commercially producing large gem-quality synthetic diamonds. Raquel Alonso-Perez (Harvard Museum, Cambridge, Massachusetts) offered insights into the new emerald deposit in eastern Madagascar, based on her fieldwork there in September 2016. Bruce Bridges (Bridges Tsavorite, Kenya) looked back on 50 years of tsavorite with a video from the famous Scorpion mine and a moving tribute to his father, Campbell Bridges. Wuyi Wang (GIA, New York) updated the conference on synthetic gem-quality diamond and its identification, detailing GIA’s research into this area. Daniel Nyfeler (Gübelin Gem Lab, Lucerne) addressed gemstone traceability and GGL’s work to increase transparency in the colored stone supply chain.

Helen Molesworth (Gübelin Academy, Lucerne, Switzerland and Hong Kong) offered a historical perspective on the gem market using record auction prices and comparing values at different periods using a soldier’s annual salary as a benchmark. Emeralds again came under the microscope in Laurent Cartier’s (SSEF, Basel) talk detailing their history from ancient Egypt to modern Ethiopia. We were treated to the photography of Jeff Scovil (Phoenix, Arizona), who showed how he captures minerals, gems, and jewelry. Joseph Taylor (PT Cendana Indopearls, Indonesia) demonstrated how the Balinese philosophy of Tri Hita Karana is applied to his company’s pearl farm in Indonesia. Willy Bieri (GRS, Meggen, Switzerland) spoke on the identification of the new sapphires being mined near Ambatondrazaka, Madagascar, and their differentiation from Kashmir sapphires. Thomas Hainschwang delivered a talk by Franck Notari (GGTL Laboratories, Geneva) on polycrystalline boehmite needles in corundum, and his proposal to rename these “Rose’s channels” in homage to Gustav Rose, a nineteenth-century German mineralogist.

The next morning, following a trip on the famed Gornergrat Railway, a geological master class was held at an elevation of 3,100 meters. Kurt Bucher (University of Freiburg, Germany) detailed the geology of the Zermatt region.

The SGS 2018 Annual Meeting will take place May 7–8 in Lugano, Switzerland. @chapter:20


Publication Year: - Title: Winter 2010 Gem News International Abstract: Colored Stones and Organic Materials
	            Amber with Mineral Inclusions
	            Additional Field Research on Tibetan Andesine
	            Aquamarine and Heliodor from Indochina
	            Dark Blue Aquamarine from Tsaramanga, Madagascar
	            Diopside from Pakistan
	            Record-Breaking Emerald Discovered in Hiddenite, North Carolina
	            Emerald-in-Matrix from Bahia, Brazil
	            5th Century Garnet Jewelry from Romania
	            Natural Pearl Diving Off the Coast of Bahrain
	            Update on Ruby and Sapphire Mining in Pakistan and Afghanistan
	            Rediscovery of Sapphires in Central France
	            Update on Sapphire Mining in Southern Madagascar
	            A Strongly Thermoluminescent Spodumene
	            “Neon” Blue-To-Green Cu- and Mn-Bearing Liddicoatite Tourmaline
Instruments and Techniques
	            Use Your LCD Screen as a Gemological Tool
	            Smartphone Photomicrography
Synthetics and Simulants
	            Filled Copal Imitation of Amber
	            Glass with Crystalline Aggregates
	            Synthetic Ruby Specimen Sold as Natural
Miscellaneous
	            Louis XV’s Golden Fleece—Recreated
Conference Reports
	            20th Annual Goldschmidt Conference
	            Carpathian and Balkan Geological Association (CBGA) meeting
	            European Diamond Conference
	            5th International Workshop on Provenance and Properties of Gems and Geo-Materials

To view the full section, download the PDF above.

	DATA DEPOSITORY

Diopside from Pakistan - Faceting Notes
Diopside from Pakistan - Raman Spectra
	January 14, 2011 @chapter:0


Publication Year: - Title: The Jewelry of Downton Abbey Abstract: Downton Abbey is one of the most popular shows on television, and its authentic costumes and jewelry are part of its charm.

When Caroline McCall, costume designer for the show, wanted jewelry for seasons three and four, she turned to Andrew Prince, a designer with an encyclopedic knowledge of jewelry history and impeccable credentials. Prince created tiaras and jewelry for the 2005 British comedy, Mrs. Henderson Presents (starring Dame Judi Dench); jewelry for the 2009 film, The Young Victoria (starring Emily Blunt and Miranda Richardson); and is a successful designer of his own collection of period pieces.

View Gallery

Working for a show like Downton Abbey is a considerable achievement, and Prince shared his thoughts with GIA about the experience: “It was an absolute thrill to work with Caroline McCall and to be associated with such a hugely successful series. It’s wonderful to see my jewelry being worn by this amazing cast, and adding a little more sparkle to the sumptuous costumes and surroundings of Downton Abbey.”

Prince brought an art historian’s eye to his jewelry. Even the stones were fashioned to mirror the cutting styles of the Edwardian and Art Deco eras. Unlike most costume jewelry used on movie and television sets, Prince’s was made of bronze, brass, sterling silver, palladium, Swarovski crystals, cubic zirconia, and synthetic gemstones.

	Two Russian tiaras inspired Prince when he created this piece.

McCall selected items from Prince's collection, and asked him to create appropriate pieces of jewelry for Lady Violet Crawley (played by Dame Maggie Smith), Lady Cora Crawley (Elizabeth McGovern), Lady Mary Crawley (Michelle Dockery), and several of the other actresses. The jewelry Lady Violet Crawley wears in the photo on the left says much about her personality.

Prince shared his thoughts on the cast photo. He explained that Lady Violet wore the most splendid, formal gems with an air of complete nonchalance, while the beautiful younger ladies had fun with more modern styles. By season four, Lady Edith Crawley (Laura Carmichael) has become much more fashion conscious and daring, while her wild young cousin, Lady Rose MacClare, (Lily James) has embraced all the latest styles of the Jazz Age.

Another character whose jewelry is telling is Lady Cora, who married into British aristocracy. Prince noted that, as an American heiress, Lady Cora would have had the money and access to the greatest designers of the age. These individuals could be very demanding, insisting on the latest designs and the highest quality. He added that there was no British reserve to hold them back.

	Lady Cora Crawley (Elizabeth McGovern) wears a tiara created by Prince.
	Courtesy of Carnival Films and MASTERPIECE on PBS.

The show has since moved through time, from the Belle Époque period (1871 – 1914) to the Art Deco era (1920s – 1930s). Lady Rose is a spirited and rebellious young woman who epitomizes the fashionable flapper of the 1920s. Her personality is revealed by a glittering bandeau. Prince shared some final thoughts on the artistic periods that are so much a part of Downton Abbey: “I particularly love the Belle Époque – such refinement and delicacy. Design mattered more than the monetary value of the stones and precious metals used. The beauty of jewelry from that age lay in its construction. It was all so different and opulent.”

	These Earrings made by Prince for Lady Rose

Now that you know something about the creation and selection of jewelry for the characters of Downton Abbey, you might enjoy another aspect of the show. And you may find that you have a deeper understanding and appreciation of period jewelry – knowledge that’s essential for industry professionals. @chapter:16