Publication Year: - Title: Books: Damiani: Alchemy of Desire Abstract: By Cristina Morozzi, 240 pp., hardcover, illus., publ. by Rizzoli, New York, 2014. US$100.00.

                      This special edition celebrates 90 years of history at Damiani, the Valenza-based jewel house established in 1924. Visually rich, the book presents the multigenerational evolution of this design house known internationally for its elegantly bedecked celebrity ambassadors and expressive, handmade designs.

To honor the landmark, the book introduces the Damiani 90th Collection early on, comprising 10 exceptional pieces that mark each decade from the 1920s to the 2010s. Period photographs and sketches enlivened by the artists’ comments—some with more exclamation points than a Facebook post—frame these magnificent pieces as reflections of their time, yet pulsing with a steady beat of contemporary energy and flair.

Woven throughout the book is the thread of an enduring family tradition that is now steered by three siblings who bring complementary skills and experience to the table. Edited by Cristina Morozzi, a writer and art director, the book presents the triumvirate in words and photographs as unified in strength, dedication, and dignity.

The family story begins with master goldsmith Enrico Grassi Damiani, who was said to create jewels for the leading families and wealthy patrons of his day, but about whom we learn little. With succession passing to Enrico’s son Damiano in 1953, the company entered a new period of growth marked by the younger Damiani’s innovations in design, research, and marketing, bringing expansion and heightened recognition to the brand. Although the book’s testimonials paint an incomplete picture of the man, the reader gains a sense of Damiano Grassi Damiani’s eye for perfection and his pursuit of it, embodied by a strong-willed, passionate leader who was able to successfully meld innovation with the new order of style.

Since Damiano’s sudden death in the mid-1990s, his three children, Giorgio, Guido, and Silvia Grassi Damiani, have continued the Damiani tradition. In 2007, the company went public.

The book offers a bird’s-eye view of Damiani’s other notable success: associating its brand with iconic ambassadors of style and glitz. Beginning with Isabella Rossellini as the face of Damiani in the 1980s, the house has also had brand ambassador and other connections with Sophia Loren, Sharon Stone, Gwyneth Paltrow, and Jennifer Aniston, all of whom are pictured in glorious Damiani jewelry. At awards shows and A-lister parties, the Damiani-adorned include other celebrities from Paris Hilton to Dita Von Teese.

Brad Pitt’s D.Side collection with Damiani is also featured, which, in a bizarre (and unmentioned) alchemy of its own, was the upside of a legal dispute between the company and the actor along with Aniston, Pitt’s former wife.

While this is an upbeat book in which jewelry reigns as the stuff of dreams and glamour, it also highlights the company’s social responsibility efforts. This is shown by Damiani’s work with Sharon Stone and a nongovernmental organization that has helped bring drinking water to Africans in remote villages in diamond-mining regions.

Notwithstanding the numerous celebrity photos, nearly all in color, the real stars of this show are the pieces themselves. Following a chapter devoted to the unprecedented 18 Diamonds International Awards bestowed on Damiani jewelry, beginning in 1976 with the Shark bracelet designed by Damiano’s wife, Gabriella, the book concludes with a chapter titled “Masterpieces.” Among the pieces that pulse with emotion, boundary-pushing craftsmanship, and staggering beauty are the dreamy “Mediterranea” cuff bracelet, the “Cincillà” collier of diamonds set in burnished gold that evokes a fur neck wrap, the lava-inspired “Vulcania” that practically erupts on the décolletage of the glitterati, and the “Peacock” necklace aglow in sapphires, emeralds, and brilliant diamonds.

Jewelry enthusiasts, stylists, and historians interested in high-fashion jewelry design will be rewarded by this celebration of a remarkable entrepreneurial family and its eye-popping creations. @chapter:16


Publication Year: 2023 Title: CVD Diamonds with Invisible Markings Abstract: Left: The DiamondView image of the 1.93 ct CVD laboratory-grown diamond shows numbers on the table facet. Right: The 0.60 ct CVD laboratory-grown diamond shows a logo mark on the star facet. Images by Jemini Sawant.
Laser inscription is a common practice that helps to easily identify a diamond. The inscriptions are so small as to be nearly impossible to read without magnification, but they can be easily read with a loupe or microscope to help match the diamond to a laboratory report. Laser inscription can be done on the girdle, on the center of the table, on a star facet, or under the table surface. Inscriptions under the table surface are very effective from a security standpoint, as they require significant weight loss to remove.
Recently, GIA labs in India tested two diamonds (1.93 and 0.60 ct) with interesting markings. No intentional markings were observed on these samples without magnification, nor could any be seen under a microscope. But when the diamonds were exposed to the deep ultraviolet light of the DiamondView, markings appeared (see above). Both samples were CVD laboratory-grown diamonds and treated with high pressure and high temperature after growth. The invisible markings are thought to be caused by slightly different concentrations of defects, but we do not know how they were created.
The invisible markings in these two diamonds suggest the possible introduction of a new security measure in diamonds, similar to the anti-counterfeiting measure used with passports and banknotes upon exposure to a special light. @chapter:31


Publication Year: 2017 Title: Emerald with Mobile Inclusion Abstract: This 9.02 g rough emerald contains a prominent eye-visible mobile inclusion. Photo by Robison McMurtry.

Multiphase inclusions are key indicators when identifying emeralds and determining their origin. Gemologists look for the jagged three-phase inclusions in stones of Colombian origin or blocky two-phase inclusions in Brazilian or Zambian emerald. These multiphase inclusions typically require higher magnification and considerable maneuvering of the emerald to get a precise view.

Recently, the Carlsbad laboratory received a 9.02 g rough emerald from Lucas Fassari (Costa Mesa, California). The rough had an eye-visible mobile inclusion (see above) consisting of a CO2 gas bubble and salt crystals suspended in a fluid. The emerald was identified using a handheld spectroscope and optical properties. It was determined to be of Colombian origin by its jagged three-phase inclusions and crystals that had characteristics of pyrite and calcite. The mobile inclusion was quite large in relation to the rough emerald, which measured 28.76 × 14.82 × 12.83 mm, including its calcite and shale matrix. The CO2 bubble measured approximately 4 × 3 mm.

Mobile inclusions of this size are captivating to observe, and to see one in an emerald adds more allure to the piece. Cutting this specimen into a faceted gemstone would lose what makes this rough emerald unique. @chapter:9


Publication Year: - Title: Article Explains Ammolite’s Organic Origins and Feng Shui Popularity Abstract: This double-sided teardrop Ammolite weighs 35.68 ct and was mined from Alberta, Canada. Photo by Robert Weldon, © GIA

                      Ammolite popularity has grown over the past decade, since renowned feng shui master Edward Kui Ming Li began extolling its virtues to his followers. Said to promote the flow of “chi” throughout the body, enhance well-being, and reduce toxins, Ammolite can exhibit up to seven colors—each said to bring a certain benefit, such as wealth, wisdom, health, growth, or energy. Feng shui practitioners call it the “seven-color prosperity stone.”

	Ammolite is cut from rough ammonite fossils such as this specimen. Photo by Maha Tannous, © GIA
“Ammolite” is the trade name referring to gems cut from fossilized ammonite, an extinct group of marine invertebrate, also collected as whole specimens. Korite International Ltd., which began as Korite Gems in 1977, is the primary company mining, fashioning, and marketing the world’s Ammolite. The company is located in Calgary, Canada, and mines for ammonite near Lethbridge, in the province of Alberta. While the ammonite deposit was first recorded in 1908 by a National Geographic survey, local lapidaries of Calgary only started fashioning Ammolite in 1962—which is hard to believe since lapidaries are always looking for new and unique materials to cut.

Author Stuart Wilson was recently given a tour of Korite International by company president Pierre Pare. He documented the experience, which included a visit to the mine site, in his June 2013 Rock & Gem article, “Ammolite: An Organic Jewel.” The article offers a thorough overview of Korite’s operation and how these fragile shells are mined, an excavation process that often occurs at depths of 50 to 60 feet.

Unlike the vast majority of ammonite deposits found around the world, the specimens found at Korite’s mine site have a fossilized outer shell that’s iridescent as a result of replacement by aragonite. The iridescent phenomenon in Ammolite arises from the interference of light bouncing off stacked layers of thin microscopic platelets that make up the replaced aragonite in the ammonite shell. According to the article, the gem can be found along the east side of the Rocky Mountains, but this is the only economically productive area of gem-quality Ammolite in the world.

	Natural Ammolite is typically impregnated with a polymer to stabilize the thin surface layer and bring out the iridescent colors, as shown in this specimen. Photo by Maha Tannous, © GIA
Five 10-gallon buckets of ammonites are extracted weekly from the shale pit where they are found. Approximately five acres are mined annually, utilizing two excavator machines working in different areas, and a spotter who stands near each one, looking for any ammonite that becomes exposed. Ammonites may be found at any level, but the deeper the excavation, the more expensive the overall process.

Because ammonite shells are fragile, the weight of thousands of feet of sediment cracked most of them during fossilization. Whole, unblemished specimens without fractures are found, however, and their rarity is reflected in their high price. Because of their fragility, Ammolites are most often fashioned into triplets consisting of an Ammolite layer with its original shale backing, and a synthetic spinel or quartz cap. Only about 100 solid Ammolite stones are cut annually. A large percentage shows a green-red color shift due to a more stable, thicker layer of aragonite. The blues and violets are rarer due to the fragility of the thinner layers necessary to produce these colors.

Korite International has come up with a logical grading system that has been accepted by the international gem community. In stones that are “AA” or “exquisite,” the highest quality, three or more brilliant colors must be evident. Only 3−8% of Korite’s annual production meets this grade. “A+” or “extra fine” grades display three or more brilliant colors with less-brilliant areas. “A” or “fine” material has one or more colors, with either one that is brilliant or three that are less brilliant than those in the “A+” class. “A-”  or “standard/good” comprises approximately 40% of Korite’s annual production and is characterized by Ammolite that shows mostly shades of green or red that are strong but less brilliant than the preceding grades. “B” or “fair” material displays one or two colors of fair brilliance. These stones are generally set in silver, as gold settings are reserved for the higher Ammolite grades. “C” or “commercial” quality material applies to only 5−10% of annual production and displays faint color patches or has unattractive fracture patterns.

	From left: This photo exhibits three phases of Ammolite: rough, cut stones, and a “Kabuki” brooch. The brooch, courtesy of and designed by Carolyn Tyler, includes Ammolite fashioned with a 1.23 ct tsavorite, 1.40 ct garnet, and .96 ct blue tourmaline, set in 22K gold. Photo by Orasa Weldon, © GIA
Production has been consistent, despite being hindered by permafrost in the winter. While the article doesn’t shed new light on Ammolite, it provides a good overview of the stone, which has seen an increase in sales. The Chinese market has been particularly significant to Korite’s success, according to the article, as Asian collectors tend to appreciate phenomenal stones. @chapter:7


Publication Year: 2022 Title: Omphacite in Pink Diamond Abstract: A bluish green omphacite crystal with surrounding stress fractures seen in a Fancy brown-pink diamond. Photomicrograph by Britni LeCroy; field of view 1.42 mm.
Photomicrography of colored crystal inclusions is a field of seemingly endless possibilities in the realm of colored stones. With regard to diamond, however, the possibilities are far more limited. This is due to the growth origin of diamond within the earth’s mantle—an environment few other minerals are able to endure. While colored crystal inclusions in diamond are uncommon, known possibilities include garnet, diopside, corundum, olivine, kyanite, and omphacite, the latter of which was seen in the Fancy brown-pink diamond in the above figure and identified via Raman spectroscopy.
Omphacite is a mineral within the clinopyroxene solid solution series, which also contains the members jadeite, diopside, and aegirine. It typically occurs in eclogite, a high-pressure, high-temperature metamorphic rock also containing garnet. Eclogites form from igneous oceanic crust that has subducted into the mantle. The presence of an omphacite inclusion proves the diamond formed in an eclogitic environment. This is a rare inclusion not often seen at GIA. @chapter:32


Publication Year: 2016 Title: Robotic Colored Stone Cutting Machines Abstract: Figure 1. Kiwon Jang checks a cassette of stones during the Jang 1024’s robotic cutting process. Photo by Tao Hsu.

	At the technology pavilion of the AGTA show, master cutter Kiwon Jang of KLM Technology (New Brunswick, New Jersey) demonstrated the Jang 1024, a robotic system for cutting colored stones (figure 1).

	KLM provides cutting services to the gem trade. Mr. Jang began his career working with cubic zirconia in his native Korea. Since moving to the United States 30 years ago, he has developed multiple systems for automatic gem cutting, with 10 systems in KLM’s New Jersey factory. The company also sells the machine to overseas clients and provides on-site training for the systems. G&G previously reported on one of his compact machines (Fall 2012 GNI, p. 233).

	The Jang 1024 is his most recent product. The machine’s process is controlled by a computer installed with designing and cutting software written by Mr. Jang. The water-cooled system (figure 2) is designed for mass production; depending on stone size, it can handle up to 56 melee at a time (figure 3). The machine can produce a round brilliant cut from 1 to 30 mm, while the largest size for emerald cuts is 25 mm. According to Mr. Jang, the maximum tolerance the machine can accommodate is 0.05 mm. The daily capacity of this machine is 2,000–4,000 melee between 1.0 and 3.0 mm, 400–800 stones between 3.5 and 10.0 mm, or 100–200 stones larger than 10.0 mm. Aside from periodically checking the stones, the entire process from preforming to polishing is done by the computer. Mr. Jang informed us that the majority of his clients are miners and cutting factories in Brazil and Russia, along with many African countries. Most of his customers in the United States are domestic dealers seeking fast local service.

Figure 2. A cassette of stones is cut using water as a cooling agent. Photo by Tao Hsu.

Figure 3. A cassette of stones is cut using water as a cooling agent. Photo by Tao Hsu. @chapter:24


Publication Year: 1986 Title: The Coscuez Mine: A Major Source of Colombian Emeralds Abstract: The Muzo emerald district, in Boyacá, Colombia, contains several mines. Although the Muzo mine is undoubtedly the best known, the Coscuez mine is rapidly gaining significance as a major source of fine emeralds. Yet few in the trade outside of Colombia are aware of the importance of Coscuez or know about the emeralds mined there. The Coscuez mine is literally hundreds of years old, and its history is closely tied to that of Muzo. Located only about 10 km apart, the two areas also share many geologic features and both are currently exploited using open-cut mining methods. The Coscuez emeralds are similar to Muzo stones in their physical properties, but they occur in a somewhat broader range of hue and saturation. Prospects for even greater production at Coscuez in the future are good. @chapter:0


Publication Year: 2001 Title: Fall 2001 G&G Lab Notes Abstract: Baddeleyite as a Gemstone
Highly Unusual Necklace Layout of Conch “Pearls”
13 Ct Yellowish Green Datolite
Heat-Treated Black Diamond: Before and After
Update on Blue and Pink HPHT-Annealed Diamonds
Fracture-Filled “Bloodshot” Iolite
Maw-Sit-Sit Beads
Two Unusual Opals
Star Sapphire with Two Stars of Two Different Colors

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:17


Publication Year: - Title: Begin with the End in Mind: Tips, Tools to Evaluate Diamond Rough Abstract: Chandra Horn, academic director for Canada’s Montreal School of Gemmology, said that when evaluating diamond rough, “You’re always imagining, ‘What’s going to come out of this? What’s in there?’” Photo by Kevin Schumacher/GIA

                      Equipped with a 10× jeweler’s loupe, a millimeter measuring gauge and a standard calculator, artisanal miners around the world have everything they need to determine realistic – and profitable – values of the diamond rough they mine by hand. A copy of the Rapaport Diamond Report wouldn’t hurt, either, said Chandra Horn, associate director of the Ecole de Gemmologie de Montreal, in an October 2015 lecture to students at GIA’s Carlsbad campus.

Horn said the challenge for artisanal miners – who make up a significant percentage of her school’s student population – is a lack of access to evaluation software used by large-scale manufacturing facilities or organizations, such as DTC/De Beers. They also have fewer samples of rough to compare their finds with to help them determine what manufacturing and other costs will be.

The key, Horn said, is to begin with the end in mind – considering the final product through each step of the evaluation.

“The whole goal of these gems is to end up as a finished product,” said Horn, who also teaches rough diamond evaluation. “When we start looking at how to value and grade these diamonds, it’s almost as if we have to pull out a crystal ball and look into their future and try and predict what they will become, in order for us to work backwards to see what value they have in their current state.”

Horn presented the “rough C’s,” or evaluation criteria, which she described as comparable to GIA’s 4Cs of diamond quality for polished stones:

4Cs for Polished Diamonds vs. Evaluation Factors for Rough Diamonds

				Polished

				Rough

				Carat Weight

				Carat Weight

				Cut

				Shape/Make (sometimes Model)

				Clarity

				Quality

				Color

				Color

With knowledge of those criteria, as well as the calculator, loupe and gauge, Horn said her students – and others without access to large-scale manufacturing operations – can effectively evaluate rough.

	Horn said DTC/DeBeers sorts diamond rough into 11,344 categories. While artisanal miners don’t use that many, a few simple tools give them everything they need to determine realistic, profitable values for the diamond rough they mine by hand. Photo by Kevin Schumacher/GIA

	First Steps: Size and Shape
The ideal first step, she said, is to sort a parcel of rough by size or carat weight. Miners and manufacturers must consider both how the rough (most frequently shaped as cubes, octahedrons or dodecahedrons) can be cut – considering the external and internal − and which polished shapes have the highest market values.

 “We are always looking to identify the shape so we know the orientation inside,” she said.

“Cutters have to pay attention to and respect the internal grain, whether that is the cleavage direction or differential hardness we see in diamonds. These are going to dictate what it is we can do with these stones.”

When a stone’s internal directions aren’t obvious, Horn said that unique surface features can provide clues. “The tiniest little octahedron is going to tell the cutter where they are and what direction they’re looking at.”

Horn reiterated that the rough’s final shape plays a huge role in the process, too. Most of the time, particularly when people are not evaluating for a large manufacturing facility, round brilliants will be the most desirable final shape.

“Why? Because rounds are what sell,” Horn said. “Rounds are what we see in the marketplace, and rounds are not going to sit in your safe.”

She acknowledged, though, that there was a great opportunity for profit if the next up-and-coming jewelry designer in the student lecture hall could figure out how to promote triangle-shaped diamond engagement rings.

“A triangle-shaped engagement ring trend could change the value of the macle (triangular-shaped rough),” she said. “If you can create a market for them, there are lots of these stones out there. A lot of rough dealers have these stones and it’s not worth it to them to cut them as triangles.”

	“When you work with rough, you’re always looking for the outline of your stone,” Horn said. Photo by Kevin Schumacher/GIA

	Rough Quality: Inclusions
Diamond rough’s quality – the equivalent to polished goods’ clarity – is the next aspect for evaluation. Inclusions and their reflections, as well as areas of stress and strain, must be considered.

“Inclusions can change what you can do with a stone,” Horn said. “Not only do you have to have an understanding of a little bit of crystallography and a little bit of what the cutter or manufacturer is going to do, but you definitely have to understand how the diamond grader is going to look at this finished product. What effect is that going to have on how this is graded as a polished stone?”

Showing the audience examples on the screen, Horn demonstrated how inclusions can be surrounded by areas of stress or strain.

“Pockets of stress areas and strain can lead to the stone literally exploding and/or shattering while we are trying to saw it, polish it or place a facet on it,” Horn said. “Usually, (it’s the cutter’s job) to avoid this, but if you’re buying or valuing or grading rough diamonds, you have to be conscious of it, too. Because it just changed what we can do with this stone … it is no longer simple. We have to factor this in as a danger zone.”

The sawing process itself can present risks to an otherwise “clean” stone: Horn displayed a close-up image of a piece of rough from her own collection, with a feather that hadn’t existed prior to sawing.

“They were going to cut it, do an uneven split, and get a nice, round, large stone out of this,” she said. “And then boom!” The sawer was working along the correct saw plane, but “sped it up too much – was in a bit of a rush – and provoked this feather.”

	“Meticulous measuring and math – they’re not what I signed up for, but what I have fallen in love with,” said Horn. Photo by Kevin Schumacher/GIA

	Rough Color: Strike a Balance
Horn explained that when it comes to color, rough evaluation doesn’t utilize the whole alphabet. “There is no D or E,” she said. “It’s light, medium and color.”

In general, the “less is more” rule applies – except in the case of fancy colors, which are an entirely different proposition.

“The color’s not going to look the same once we get it cut,” she said, noting that people have to consider where the color concentration is and what balance it will strike in the polished stone. “With fancy-colored stones, you definitely want to be sure they are saturated colors.”

Horn said that in green diamonds, for example, which often have very thin stains that only penetrate the stone shallowly, the wrong cutter can take off too much “rough skin” and end up with a colorless diamond.

Pinks and browns, which are often seen in color zones, are also at risk in the hands of a cutter unskilled with colored diamonds.

“That zone – that little area that held that pink color – which, as you probably know, with some of the auction results in the last few years, adds a lot of zeroes to your value – you don’t want him to polish that off,” she said. “That would be a big mistake even if it came out as a D-color (polished stone).”

Horn said that overall, “a lot of factors” must be considered when evaluating rough, and “it’s all based on the prices for polished goods.”

“At the end of the day, it’s always going to come down to what kind of value will I get? What’s my yield going to be? What percentage of this rough am I going to be retaining in the cut product?” Horn said. “It’s always going to come back to math and finance.” @chapter:38


Publication Year: 2014 Title: Gem craftsmen of Chanthaburi _1 Abstract: Even though the process of faceting to create angles and the skill of crafting light refraction points to enhance the value of gemstones is the final step, beneath the radiant beauty lies value and knowledge that many may overlook. @chapter:25


Publication Year: 2011 Title: Research on Gem Feldspar from the Shigatse Region of Tibet Abstract: The existence of a natural red andesine deposit in China/Tibet has been the subject of controversy since 2006. In late September 2010, an international group traveled to the Shigatse region of Tibe tand visited two reported andesine occurrences, at Zha Lin village and the Yu Lin Gu alluvial fan. These sites are located ~3 km from the previously investigated Bainang andesine mining area near Nai Sa village. The Zha Lin deposit appeared genuine, but the group could not confirm the authenticity of the Yu Lin Gu occurrence, and no primary andesine-bearing source rocks were found in either area. Some of the samples had glassy surface residues that are difficult to explain naturally, while initial argon isotopic measurements of a few Zha Lin and Yu Lin Gu andesines (without glassy residues) showed that they had not been heated. Laboratory studies of the Tibetan samples—and a comparison to known-treated red andesine from Inner Mongolia—showed that it may be possible to separate these feldspars using a combination of several advanced destructive techniques, but this methodology is not practical for gem testing laboratories. More detailed investigations will be needed to establish feasible identification criteria for natural-color andesine from Tibet. @chapter:5


Publication Year: - Title: JCK Las Vegas 2018: Demand Improves, But Attendance Declines Abstract: Business at the JCK Las Vegas show met expectations this year, though buyers remained somewhat cautious. Photo courtesy of JCK.

Demand at the June 1-4 JCK Las Vegas show met the expectations of the trade, despite declining attendance.

Jewelry designers, manufacturers and diamond dealers, who comprise the majority of exhibitors at the show, generally saw steady, if still somewhat cautious, business. But most of the show talk concerned De Beers’ newly announced synthetic diamond jewelry collection, Lightbox.

Finished jewelry exhibitors at the Mandalay Bay venue reported good orders – slightly better than last year for a number of them – but added that the show is always more about meeting, greeting and making new contacts than it is about writing business.

“Buyers looking for important pieces don’t usually place their orders here, but they come by and we talk with them,” said a designer in the Luxury Pavilion. “All the business is done later.”

Manufacturers with more commercial lines said all of their products are available for order online, so the show has become more of a place to listen to client concerns and take suggestions.

More and more jewelry manufacturers have been producing designs at multiple price points in the past few years. That trend accelerated this year, to the point where some lines offer a combination of rock crystal and manufactured crystal glass with gemstones set in vermeil and sterling silver, instead of 14k and 18k gold or platinum. Jewelry designs seen at the show trended toward thin swirling lines and many mixed precious and non-precious materials to maintain attractive prices.

Female self-purchase has become a very important niche for jewelry makers, so many are creating lines in the $500-$1,000 price range to appeal to women who might buy jewelry on an impulse or put fine jewelry in a category competitive with other accessories.

“Women have no problem spending $750 or $1,000 for a designer handbag,” said one exhibitor. “We need to have a lot of fashion-oriented fine jewelry to compete in that space.”

Attendance at the JCK Show was reportedly down from recent years. Photo courtesy of JCK
The story was similar at the Couture Show, which ran concurrently with the JCK show, where the emphasis is on designer jewelry shown by many of the best-known names. Diamond dealers at the show reported steady demand, but found cautious retailers.

“The major chains were here, and independents. Most were just buying what they needed in the short term and larger goods (generally 3 carats-plus) only against customer calls,” said one exhibitor.

There was interest in higher-end fancy pink and blue colored diamonds, but supplies were few and calls were limited to stones under a half carat.

Colored stone demand at the American Gem Trade Association show was generally slow throughout the week. Dealers reported that buyers were looking for unheated ruby and sapphire, fancy color sapphire and some smaller stones for color accents.

While the official buyer count was not released by the end of the shows, most exhibitors believed it was significantly down from past Vegas shows. The number of U.S. retail jewelers has declined by some 2,000 in the past three years, according to Jewelers Board of Trade figures, and international buyers, who used to comprise a significant portion of the show’s attendance, have other choices, including a greatly expanded Hong Kong show.

In addition, exhibitors noted that many clients order online, skipping the shows altogether. @chapter:27


Publication Year: 2008 Title: Color Variations and Properties of Johachidolite from Myanmar Abstract: To learn more about the rare gem material johachidolite, the authors used various analytical techniques to study 15 faceted samples from Myanmar that showed a range of colors: saturated orange, orange, yellow, desaturated yellow and desaturated green. Both orange/yellow-hued and green samples showed trends for beryllium and the radioactive/radiogenic elements uranium, thorium, and lead. Orange/yellow samples also showed relatively constant rare-earth element (REE) concentrations, but the green samples had higher REE values, especially for the lighter elements. @chapter:37


Publication Year: 2016 Title: Book Review: Jewelry by Suzanne Belperron: My Style is My Signature Abstract: By Patricia Corbett, Ward Landrigan, and Nico Landrigan, hardcover, 239 pp., illus., publ. by Thames & Hudson, Ltd., London, UK, 2015, US$85.

	Much like the jeweled creations of the designer herself, Jewelry by Suzanne Belperron invites being treasured on many levels. The book profiles a remarkable woman born in 1900 whose talents were recognized at an early age and who, through her drive, artistic commitment, and singularity, attracted enlightened business and creative partners.

	It is also a tale of female fortitude in a man’s world, where a young woman from a small town in the Jura Mountains learns a broad range of design skills. Shortly after her 1919 arrival in Paris, Belperron (then known as Suzanne Vuillerme) was hired as a designer-draftswoman by Maison Boivin, one of the city’s few premier jewelry houses. At the age of 32, she aligned herself with Bernard Herz, receiving the allegiance of Groëné and Darde, two of the most renowned Parisian jewelers, along with other jewelers, polishers, and stone setters.

	Suzanne Belperron’s saga is also that of a singular individualist, a virtuoso whose style and artistry were so distinctive that she felt no need to sign her work, asserting that her style was her signature. Hardship, an enviable clientele, war, and loss are reflected in Belperron’s jewelry, at once breathtakingly magnificent yet rooted in themes and materials that reveal the soul and sensibility behind her luxurious splendor.

	Above all, the jewels reign supreme. Exquisitely captured by photographer David Behl and others, pieces feature Belperron’s sculptural and fluid designs. Scroll, shell, pyramidal, domed, winged, petal, and other motifs are used to embellish carved hardstones, metals, and gems ranging from diamonds, sapphires, rubies, and emeralds to her much-admired chalcedonies and onyx. As one of the innovators of the serti mystérieux, or invisible setting, Belperron used diamonds of varying sizes and relations in her pavé designs. The results are much like the painter’s brushstrokes that evoke movement, depth and highlights. Belperron designs also redefined the parure (matching jewelry sets), providing versatility through diverse elements that could be added or removed to create the desired amount of adornment.

	Besides the superb photography, the book includes many of Madame Belperron’s gouache opaque watercolor renderings from Harper’s Bazaar and Vogue covers and features, including Diana Vreeland’s popular and provocative “Why don’t you…” columns that suggested a look illustrated by the wearing of a Belperron piece. Occasional obverse views of breathtaking pieces, such as the deceptively casual setting of a diamond and ruby bib necklace, reveal the intricate platinum links that invisibly grant the piece the appearance of flowing fabric.

	Although Belperron’s name may be less familiar than those of many other 20th century jewelers, this book establishes her as one of the most significant jewelers, if not the most notable female jewelry artist, of her time. Testifying to her work’s enchantment was a client list that included royalty, artists, and prominent public figures. The Duke and Duchess of Windsor, Princess Grace of Monaco, Clark Gable, Lauren Bacall and Humphrey Bogart, and members of the Lanvin, Mellon and Paley families all owned pieces by Belperron.

	Authors Patricia Corbett and Ward and Nico Landrigan bring to life the masterful body of work displayed in these pages. The authors worked with Belperron’s former partners’ descendants, master craftsmen, collectors, and archivists, among others to bring this book to fruition. Without their efforts, the legacy of Suzanne Belperron may have been lost, much like the artist’s many pieces that have been sold at auction unrecognized and perhaps underappreciated.

	The story of Suzanne Belperron is a rich one indeed, worthy of the interest and scholarship of aspiring and established jewelry designers and lapidaries, jewelry historians and all those interested in stories of immeasurable talent, quietly productive introversion, fortitude, and groundbreaking creativity. @chapter:16


Publication Year: 2008 Title: Rubies and Sapphires from Winza, Central Tanzania Abstract: Since late 2007, rubies and sapphires have been mined by hand methods from both eluvial and primary deposits at Winza in central Tanzania. The gem corundum is related to “dikes” of amphibolitic rocks that belong to the Paleoproterozoic Usagaran Belt. Based on crystal morphology, Winza corundum is subdivided into two types: prismatic-tabular-rhombohedral and dipyramidal. In general, medium red and dark (orangy) red top-quality rubies are rhombohedral. Pinkish red and purplish red rubies, as well as pink, purple, and blue (often strongly color zoned) sapphires are, for the most part, dipyramidal. The top-quality rubies are characterized by a distinct assemblage of long tube-, fiber-, needle-, or hair-like inclusions containing an orange-brown material (most likely limonite). The lower-quality material generally contains a larger amount of solid inclusions (mostly amphibole crystals), fissures, and growth features. Unique to corundum from this locality are bluish violet color zones oriented parallel to the prism and basal pinacoid, and occasionally also parallel to rhombohedral and dipyramidal faces. The relatively high Fe content of Winza rubies separates them from most other natural and almost all synthetic counterparts.

	DATA DEPOSITORY

Corrected UV-Vis-NIR Absorption Spectra
Mining Photos
Photomicrographs
Stone Photos
Transit Photos
Washing Photos
	Submitted by Brendan M. Laurs
	Winter, 2008 @chapter:37


Publication Year: 2013 Title: Orangy Pink Coated "Soft Coral" Abstract: Figure 1. This string of orangy pink “soft coral” beads (6–15 mm in diameter) displayed a rough surface and large pores. Photo by Gagan Choudhary.

              Dyeing white coral to imitate popular colors such as red, orange, and pink is a widely known practice. But a bead strand examined at the Gem Testing Laboratory in Jaipur, India, revealed a coloring method unfamiliar to gemologists (figure 1).

The strand weighed approximately 380 ct and contained spherical beads ranging from 6 to 15 mm in diameter. These were identified as coral belonging to the species Melithaea ocracea of the order Alcyonacea (e.g., M.C. Pederson, Gem and Ornamental Materials of Organic Origin, Elsevier Butterworth-Heinemann, Oxford, 2004, pp. 192–218). Their surface showed deep pores and dull luster. The presence of pores was sufficient to identify the beads as soft coral, which is also characterized by a spongy, brittle, rough appearance.

Although their identification was straightforward, the beads’ appearance caused doubt regarding their color origin. When viewed under magnification (figure 2), distinct color concentrations were visible within the surface pores and cavities. The coloring agent was restricted to the surface, producing an enamel-like appearance in the trenches while the ridges appeared white. This evidence suggested that the beads were coated with paint rather than dyed.

	Figure 2. Under magnification, distinct color concentrations are visible within the pores and cavities of this “soft coral.” The apparent use of a coloring agent only on the surface, evidenced by the enamel-like appearance within the trenches and the whiteness of the ridges, suggests these beads were coated, not dyed. Photomicrograph by Gagan Choudhary; magnified 48×.
Although the microscopic features were sufficient for identification, further tests confirmed those findings. Under UV light, the beads displayed bright orange fluorescence (more strongly under short-wave), a feature commonly associated with pink-orange dyes. No typical absorption spectra were visible under a desk-model spectroscope or recorded with a UV-Vis-NIR spectrometer. This is because the beads’ dull luster, opacity, and rough, uneven surfaces neither reflect light (in diffused reflectance mode) nor absorb it (in transmission mode). Weak and broad absorption bands were displayed at approximately 540 and 680 nm, and the presence of calcium carbonate (aragonite) was confirmed by Raman spectroscopy.

Such “soft coral” is commonly dyed red and the pores are filled with a polymer to enhance polish and luster. But this specimen’s color and luster were unusual. The lab also received similar coral strands in pink and black, suggesting this dye method can produce a variety of colors. @chapter:40


Publication Year: 2023 Title: Breyite in Diamond Abstract: A well-formed colorless breyite crystal reminiscent of a stone making a splash in water. Photomicrograph by Aprisara Semapongpan; field of view 1.07 mm.
The author recently examined a 0.71 ct D-color type IaB diamond with an interesting inclusion reminiscent of a stone splashing in water (see above). Raman analysis identified the well-formed colorless transparent crystal as breyite (CaSiO3), a calcium-rich silicate mineral commonly found in sublithospheric or superdeep diamonds. It was hypothesized that this diamond formed in the lower part of the transition zone or the lower mantle beneath the earth’s crust.
Since the majority of diamonds in the jewelry industry come from the lithosphere, each one provides a window into Earth’s intricate geology. Inclusions such as this one serve as a reminder that beauty and flaws may coexist peacefully, whether they add to a diamond’s charm or provide scientific insight. @chapter:35


Publication Year: - Title: Jewelry Sales Stay Flat for Season; High End Beats Trend Abstract: Retail jewelers underperformed against retail as a whole this past holiday season. Courtesy of Traditional Jewelers Newport Beach. Photo by Eric Welch/GIA

	Overall, retail sales showed a reasonable upturn during the holiday season − but sales of jewelry failed to grow. The National Retail Federation (NRF) announced that retail sales from all channels climbed 4% from the previous year. Not surprisingly, the rise in online sales was much greater at 13%.

	Retail jewelry sales, however, were “flat to modestly down” compared to last year, according to Mark Light, CEO of Signet Group, the parent company of Kay Jewelers, Zales and Jared the Galleria of Jewelry. Signet reported that its same-store seasonal sales were down 4.6%. Light said these results were “in line with the jewelry market” (as a whole). The company said its ecommerce platform was beset by technical problems resulting in a 2.6% sales decline.

	Tiffany & Co., reported a 2% same-store sales decline. Its North American same-store sales fell 4%, while they were up 7% in Asia and the Far East. The company noted that protests outside the Trump Tower in New York City, which restricted access to its flagship store next door, resulted in a 14% sales decline at that location.

	Michael Hill, an Australian-based retail jewelry chain with 10 stores in the U.S., reported that sales fell 5.6% during the holiday period.

	The one bright spot was the higher-end independents. Some 63% of respondents to the Centurion Holiday Sales Success Index reported that this year’s holiday season was much stronger than last year − and 68% of respondents reported that their total year sales were up as well.

	The survey broke down the responses:

		32.5% said holiday season sales grew substantially − more than 10% over last year’s figures

		12.5% reported sales gains of 6% to 10%

		17.5% reported modest holiday gains of 1% to 5%

	There were some negatives in the Centurion poll: 20% of respondents saw sales fall off more than 10%, while 15% reported that sales were down anywhere from 1% to 10% from last year’s figures.

	In general, various surveys showed that brick and mortar store sales fell between 7% and 10%, while online gained. This was in line with the NRF report, which showed that department stores sales eroded an average of 7% this season.

	Department stores are facing deeper issues than declining middle class purchasing power. Most department stores anchor shopping malls. However, an estimated 15% of U.S. malls will fail or be changed into non-retail space within the next 10 years, according to a report by Green Street Advisors, a real estate analytics firm.

	Despite a trend toward online sales, Blue Nile was registering weak numbers through the year before announcing its sale to an investment group in the fall. The company typically reports its holiday sales in early March.

	De Beers’ CEO Bruce Cleaver, in an interview with the Associated Press, said that demand was running toward smaller diamond pieces because millennials are less affluent than previous generations were at the same age. He did say, however, that the percentage of self-purchased diamond jewelry is on the rise.

	Cleaver reported that a De Beers analysis found that the U.S. comprises 45% of global diamond jewelry demand. It also showed that China, including Hong Kong, is about 16%, India is about 8% and Japan is about 5%.

	In a New Year address to clients, Cleaver said De Beers remained committed to maintaining marketing efforts for diamond and jewelry, and to technological developments to identify synthetic diamonds entering the market.

	While the latest numbers from China’s largest retail jewelry chain, Chow Tai Fook, sound encouraging − a 4% same-store sales increase on the mainland − they don’t help the diamond trade that much. All of the sales increases came from gold jewelry, while “gem set” jewelry continued its two-year slide, down 4% on the mainland and 17% in Hong Kong.

	MINING

	Alrosa reported a 26% increase in rough sales to $4.49 billion for 2016. The results reflect a recovery in the rough market from the chaos of 2015, when clients refused to take goods from major suppliers because prices had climbed well above the cost of the resulting polished. Alrosa cut rough prices an average of 15% during the year.

	Alrosa plans to increase production 5% across the board this year by expanding operations of its Internatsionalny mine and its new Zarya pipe, a relatively low yielding resource. Both are in the western part of the Russian republic of Yakutia. The company also plans to step up its marketing in Asia through its new sales facility in Vladivostok. Alrosa produced an estimated 38 million carats in 2016.

	De Beers will likely post strong sales gains (+35%) for the year for the same reason: clients bought very few goods in the final quarter of 2015. De Beers trimmed prices as well.

	The new reality − that diamond demand and prices will not rise exponentially over the long term, as predicted during the previous decade − has hit diamond mining companies' projects that were on tap for development based on such predictions.

	De Beers will soon flood the Snap Lake mine in Canada. The company spent $1 billion developing it, but the mine never turned a profit because demand and prices remained well below expectations. Rio Tinto also walked away from the Bunder project in India last year. @chapter:27


Publication Year: 2016 Title: Analysis of Yellow Diamond Melee for Color Treatment and Synthetics Abstract: Figure 1. These six melee were revealed to be HPHT-treated natural diamonds. Photo by Sood Oil (Judy) Chia.

	Due to the size and quantity of diamond melee in a parcel, gemological analysis is usually not performed on each specimen. As a result, treated and synthetic diamonds are sometimes mixed with natural diamond melee in parcels (Winter 2014 Lab Notes, pp. 293–294).

	Some gemological laboratories are able to properly identify treated and synthetic diamond melee with a combination of infrared absorption spectroscopy, photoluminescence (PL) spectroscopy, and DiamondView fluorescence imaging. GIA’s New York laboratory recently tested two parcels of yellow diamond melee submitted for this screening. The results of their examination highlight the importance of laboratory analysis to correctly establishing the nature and color origin of diamond melee.

	A parcel of six yellow melee (figure 1), each weighing approximately 0.12 ct, was submitted to GIA for testing. Examination confirmed that all six were natural diamonds treated by HPHT (high-pressure, high-temperature) processing. A combination of mid-infrared absorption spectroscopy (4000–400 cm–1) and PL spectroscopy with 633 nm laser excitation was used to detect this HPHT treatment. Spectroscopic analysis in the mid-IR range revealed the presence of isolated single nitrogen impurities. Four stones contained both A- and B-aggregated nitrogen where the B-aggregate was dominant, while the remaining two contained B-aggregated nitrogen; all six contained isolated single nitrogen. PL spectroscopy revealed features that confirmed these were HPHT-treated diamonds.

	Another parcel of 20 yellow diamond melee (figure 2), each weighing between 0.01 and 0.02 ct, was submitted for testing. Mid-IR absorption spectroscopy and DiamondView imaging revealed that three were untreated natural diamonds and one was an HPHT-treated natural diamond; the rest were HPHT synthetics (figure 3). Mid-IR spectroscopy also revealed that 17 of the melee were dominated by A-aggregated nitrogen, three contained both A- and B-aggregated nitrogen, and all 20 contained isolated single nitrogen. The DiamondView images revealed characteristic growth features that helped separate the HPHT synthetic and HPHT-treated material from the natural stones. The HPHT synthetics contained typical cuboctahedral growth patterns, while growth patterns associated with natural diamond formation were observed in the natural diamonds, both untreated and HPHT-treated.

	Figure 2. Of this group of 20 diamond melee, 16 were HPHT synthetics (left). Three were untreated natural diamonds (center), and one was an HPHT-treated natural diamond (right). Photo by Jian Xin (Jae) Liao.

Figure 3. These DiamondView images show characteristic growth features typical of (A) untreated natural, (B) HPHT-treated natural, and (C–F) HPHT synthetic diamond. Images by Manisha Bhoir.

	This analysis highlights the importance of laboratory testing to correctly identifying the nature and color origin of diamond melee, and to minimizing the risk of mixing treated and synthetic diamonds with natural melee in the marketplace. @chapter:15


Publication Year: 2013 Title: Large HPHT-Treated Fancy Pink Diamond Abstract: Figure 1. This 20.32 ct pear-shaped diamond was color graded as Fancy pink. Advanced testing suggested that its strong pink color was enhanced by HPHT treatment. Photo by Jian Xin (Jae) Liao.

              These days, high-pressure, high-temperature (HPHT) treatment is very commonly applied to change diamond color. Most of the HPHT-treated pink diamonds submitted to GIA range from 1 to 2 ct, and sizes over 10 ct are extremely rare. We previously reported on a 21.73 ct HPHT-annealed Light pink diamond (see Fall 2011 Lab Notes, p. 227). We have encountered another large HPHT-treated diamond that showed stronger pink coloration.

The 20.32 ct pear-shaped brilliant submitted to the New York laboratory (figure 1) was color graded as Fancy pink. We applied FTIR, UV-visible, and PL spectroscopy to examine the color origin for this diamond. The mid-infrared spectrum confirmed it was a type IIa diamond. The UV-visible spectrum showed a broad band at approximately 550 nm, a typical cause of pink coloration in diamond. But the PL spectra suggested that the pink color was improved by HPHT treatment. Most HPHT-treated pink diamonds have a secondary color component in addition to “pure” pink, either brownish or purplish. Interestingly, this sample had no secondary color component. Such HPHT-treated pure pink is extremely rare. Some HPHT-treated diamonds may contain graphitized inclusions and/or pitted surfaces on the girdle, but this one was microscopically “clean,” both internally and on the surface. It also showed the typical tatami strain of a type II diamond when viewed in cross-polarized light, along with the high interference colors often associated with HPHT treatment (figure 2).

	Figure 2. The typical tatami strain of type II diamond was observed by viewing the sample under crossed polarizers. It also showed high interference colors, which are often observed in HPHT-treated diamonds. Magnified 30×. Photo by Kyaw Soe Moe.

This sample demonstrated the improvement of HPHT treatment techniques in achieving more intense pink coloration in large diamonds. This was one of the largest HPHT-treated pink diamonds tested in GIA’s New York laboratory. It is very difficult to detect such treated pink color using traditional gemological instrumentation, especially with stones that are free of inclusions, and advanced gemological testing is critical for this purpose. @chapter:11


Publication Year: 2020 Title: DNA Barcoding and Next-Generation Sequencing (NGS) of Freshwater Pearls Abstract: Twenty-two pearls of various kinds and species from various freshwater sources were used for the blind DNA study. Photo by Sood Oil (Judy) Chia.
Research efforts on the deoxyribonucleic acid (DNA) species identification of biogenic materials, in particular pearls, have been the focus of some gemological laboratories, including GIA’s, for several years (J.B. Meyer et al., “DNA fingerprinting of pearls to determine their origins,” PLOS ONE, Vol. 8, No. 10, 2013, e75606; K. Saruwatari et al., “DNA techniques applied to the identification of Pinctada fucata  pearls from Uwajima, Ehime Prefecture, Japan,” Spring 2018 G&G, pp. 40–50; K. Scarratt, CIBJO Special Pearl Report, 2019). Here we report on the findings of a study on the DNA analysis of cultured and natural freshwater pearls originating from both North America and China using the next-generation sequencing (NGS) technique, in collaboration with the Canadian Centre for DNA Barcoding at the University of Guelph.
A total of 22 freshwater pearl samples were subjected to DNA barcode analysis (see above). Nine American freshwater natural pearls (sample numbers 1, 2, 8, 12, 13, 15, 16, 17, and 18) and four American freshwater cultured pearls (sample numbers 3, 4, 9, and 10) from Gina Latendresse (American Pearl Company, Inc., Nashville, Tennessee), and nine Chinese freshwater cultured pearls (sample numbers 5, 6, 7, 11, 14, 19, 20, 21, and 22) from the GIA research collection were analyzed. The samples were either drilled with a hand drill using sterile techniques or crushed with a mortar and pestle using liquid nitrogen to obtain powder for analysis. Previously published DNA extraction protocols for pearls were modified to include newly designed primers for polymerase chain reaction (PCR) amplification and NGS. Only high-quality reads assigned to correct Ion Xpress MID (molecular identifier) tags were used in NGS data analysis. Negative PCR and negative extraction controls did not produce any valid sequencing data. Blast algorithms were utilized to match resulting operational taxonomic units to a reference library database for mitochondrial cytochrome c oxidase subunit I; results were imaged using MEGAN software. DNA sequences recovered from the unknown pearl samples were compared against the species sequence reference library in the Barcode of Life Data System, accessible at http://www.boldsystems.org, and compared against the National Center for Biotechnology Information database (https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov).

DNA fragments from eight of the twenty-two samples were successfully recovered and identified. DNA-based species identification was highly consistent with the reported origin of the pearls (table 1). Results on the analyses of the 14 remaining samples were not successful, and no valid yield was recovered. This can be attributed to many factors, including insufficient DNA content due to limited sample size, or the elimination of trace DNA during the various routine pearl treatments known to be applied. While challenges remain on the extraction of DNA fragments from pearls, the results indicate that this technique can provide positive matches on individual pearls and prove which mollusk species they originated from, thus aiding in the identification of some challenging pearls or confirming mollusk origins in cases where greater detail may justify the time and expense of such analyses.
This joint research was previously presented at the 7th International Barcode of Life Conference (Genome, Vol. 60, No. 11, pp. 1003–1004). GIA will continue to investigate this field of research, which is proving to be a highly valuable supplementary technique in the gemological examination of pearls. @chapter:14


Publication Year: - Title: Fall for Autumn Gems Abstract: A sunburst explosion of color and light is created in this Imperial topaz carved by Richard Homer, a pioneer of the concave-cutting style and a former GIA instructor. Concave facets return light along the entire surface of the curved facet, instead of one direction as with flat facets. Photo courtesy of Gems by Design, Inc. Kent, OH. © Richard Homer. Photo by Robert Weldon

Nature gives us a brilliant palette of color-changing leaves and a spectacular kaleidoscope of sunsets during the fall season. Yet, year-round, a treasure trove of gemstones in rich earth tones is ripe for collecting.

Let’s take a look at some gems, jewelry and minerals in autumnal hues to kick start this colorful season.

Natural, untreated topaz commonly occurs in pale yellow, brown, colorless or gray. Other hues of pink, green, blue and violet occur in nature, but these colors are rarely vivid. Although blue is the most popular color of topaz, the most valuable are the orange, pink, red and purple colors generally referred to as Imperial topaz, which reflect the beauty of autumn sunsets.

This fire opal from Mezezo, Ethiopia exhibits strong play-of-color. Courtesy of Cody Opal. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA
Gemstone varieties are often named for something they resemble such as sunstone, fire opal and fire agate, all colors in the autumnal spectrum.

Sunstone gets its phenomenon called aventurescence from tiny hematite, copper or goethite platelet inclusions that reflect light. The appearance of the phenomenon depends upon the size of the inclusions: small inclusions create a reddish or golden sheen on top of any bodycolor and larger inclusions create attractive, glittery reflections. Most sunstones have yellow, orange or brown bodycolor. Oregon is a major source of the finest sunstone.

View Gallery

Fire opals are found in a range of warm hues – red, orange and yellow. They can be transparent, translucent or opaque, usually with a vitreous luster. According to Jürgen Schütz of Emil Weis Opals (Idar-Oberstein, Germany), one of the oldest opal cutting companies in the world, fire opal from Mexico is the only opal mined in quantity that is clear enough for faceting. It ranges from colorless to a dark red that is comparable with ruby. This type of material is available in large quantities and can even be calibrated. The majority of opal worldwide comes from Australia, Mexico and Ethiopia.

This fire agate is an excellent example of iridescence in chalcedony. Courtesy of Commercial Mineral Company, Inc. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA
Fire agate is a variety of chalcedony, a micro or cryptocrystalline quartz. With its swirling flares of orange iridescence and flashing streaks of brown, yellow and green, it is aptly named. It forms in botryoidal structure, resembling a cluster of grapes. Fire agate is an excellent example of the iridescence phenomenon seen in chalcedony.

Agates can be found in rich fall colors of orange, brown and yellow, often forming in layers or bands of color. Massive agate deposits were discovered in Rio Grande do Sul, Brazil in the 1800s and shipped for cutting to Idar-Oberstein. Today, agate from Brazil remains a favorite of gem carvers for its depth of color.

Tourmalines are known for color zoning, often exhibiting two or more colors, and also form in a wide range of single colors. This glowing set of multicolored tourmalines resemble the sunset in an autumnal sky and showcase their versatility of color. Courtesy of Bjorn Anckar. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA
October’s birthstones, opal and tourmaline, also offer a broad range of autumnal hues in yellow, orange and brown. Citrine and topaz, the November birthstones, fit well in this season’s theme with yellow to red color ranges.

Several other gemstones also convey the beauty and variety of autumnal colors:

Amber - Yellow and golden amber are most familiar to the consumer, although amber can be transparent red, which increases its value. Rare instances of strong fluorescence give amber a bluish or greenish appearance that increases its value even more. Its amorphous structure makes it a good medium for preservation of plant and animal inclusions.

“Solar Motive” sweetens the gallery collection of orange gemstones in honey-color Baltic amber complimented with citrine, almandine and pearls in an explosive combination of golden rays. Courtesy of the Anthony & Elizabeth Duquette Foundation for the Living Arts. Photo by Orasa Weldon/GIA
Citrine - Natural color citrine is rare. Most of the citrine on the market is a result of heat treatment of pale violet amethyst to an attractive yellow that makes it an appealing alternative for topaz and yellow sapphire.

Garnet - Several species of the garnet group also fall in the autumn color range, the brightest being spessartine, which is typically yellowish orange through reddish orange.

Pearls - Golden South Sea pearls are among the most desired pearls. They are grown in the gold-lip variety of the oyster Pinctada maxima, which gives them thick nacre and warm, golden tones.

This South Sea pearl ring and earring suite offers a soft contrast to the strong orange hues, much like the evening’s first glow at sunset. Courtesy of Wing Hang Diamond, Hong Kong. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA
Sapphire - We usually think of sapphire as blue, although sapphire comes in all colors and shades. The intense light to medium pinkish orange to orange-pink of Padparadscha sapphire is the rarest.

The bounty of autumn gemstones in a palette of brilliant colored gemstones makes it fun to fall into the mood of the season. @chapter:18


Publication Year: 2014 Title: Unusual Composite Ruby Rough Abstract: Figure 1. The 14.77 ct composite ruby rough was partially polished on opposite sides where natural ruby slabs were pasted to a synthetic ruby crystal. Notice the hexagonal zoning on the polished surface. Photo by Meenakshi Chauhan; magnified 15×.

ABSTRACT
The Indian Gemological Institute – Gem Testing Laboratory recently examined an unusual 14.77 ct specimen that resembled ruby rough. Initial gemological testing (RI, hydrostatic SG, optical properties, visible spectrum, and infrared spectroscopic analysis) was consistent with ruby.

The rough was partially polished on two opposite sides, where hexagonal growth zoning was easily visible with the unaided eye (figure 1). Several striations and grooves were visible on the side of the rough.

The pattern and nature of these grooves raised suspicion about the rough’s origin. Closer examination under magnification revealed that hexagonal zoning and fine silk on the partially polished surfaces were confined to a depth of approximately 1.5 mm. Two thin slabs of about 1.5 mm each appeared to be attached to the two opposite ends of the rough. No other inclusions were found under magnification. We did observe a slight difference in the color of the thin layer and the main body. The thin slabs were purplish red, while the main body was pinkish red. Since the hexagonal zoning was within the thin slabs and the physical properties were consistent with ruby, we concluded that they were natural ruby slabs. The natural ruby slabs were pasted with a glue that made them appear orangy in transmitted light, and trapped gas bubbles were also observed in the junction plane (figure 2). The two natural slabs were polished to show the hexagonal zoning, while the rest of the rough was kept coarse to restrict views of the interior. Fine triangular grooves were engraved on the rough’s surface to imitate the natural growth markings of ruby.

Figure 2. In transmitted light, the natural ruby slab appeared orangy due to the adhesive. Trapped gas bubbles are seen in the junction plane. Photo by Meenakshi Chauhan; magnified 30×.
Under magnification, a small cluster of gas bubbles was visible through one of the smooth grooves on the specimen’s main body, evidence of synthetic origin. Several fractures were also present in the rough, probably an attempt to imitate fingerprint inclusions. Under short-wave UV, the natural slabs fluoresced red while the synthetic ruby rough showed a strong chalky fluorescence (figure 3). Chalky fluorescence was further evidence of the rough’s synthetic origin.

Figure 3. Under short-wave UV light, the synthetic ruby portion of composite rough fluoresced chalky while the natural ruby slabs fluoresced red. Photo by Meenakshi Chauhan.
Cut and polished composites are regularly encountered, but a composite where synthetic rough is fashioned to imitate natural gem material poses a more significant challenge. @chapter:19


Publication Year: - Title: Alexandrite Care and Cleaning Guide Abstract: Alexandrite is a beautiful, rare, and durable gemstone. - © GIA & Tino Hammid, courtesy Simon Watt, Watt Gems

Hardness and toughness
Gem and mineral hardness is measured on the Mohs scale. The numbers are based on the relative ease or difficulty with which one mineral can be scratched by another. But the Mohs scale is deceptive. The steps between the minerals are not evenly spaced. For example, diamond is only one number away, but it’s many times harder than gems in the corundum family.

Alexandrite is relatively hard—8.5 on the Mohs scale. It has excellent toughness and no cleavage, which is a tendency to break when struck. This makes it a good choice for rings and other mountings subject to daily wear.

	Alexandrite ranks 8.5 on the Mohs hardness scale.
Stability
Alexandrite is stable under normal wearing conditions, which means it’s resistant to the effects of heat, light, and common chemicals.

Cleaning
Warm, soapy water is always safe for cleaning alexandrite. Ultrasonic and steam cleaners are usually safe.

Treatment and durability considerations
Alexandrites are usually not treated, although they might have fractures.  Fracture-filled gemstones should only be cleaned with warm, soapy water. @chapter:2


Publication Year: 2015 Title: Large Natural Fossil Blister Pearls from Tridacna (Giant Clam) Species Abstract: Fossil pearls, first mentioned in 1723 in John Woodward’s “An essay towards a natural history of the earth and terrestrial bodies,” were described in greater detail by R. Bullen Newton in 1908 (“Fossil pearl-growths,” Journal of Molluscan Studies, Vol. 8, pp. 318–320). It is a rare occurrence to receive such pearls at GIA, which is why two large fossil blister pearls recently submitted to the New York laboratory immediately caught our attention.

According to the client, the pair of fossil blister pearls were found near Lunga Lunga, a region in southeastern Kenya bordering Tanzania. They were found attached to a fossilized giant clam shell that weighed approximately 297 kg and was discovered 4.3 meters below ground (figure 1) along with some fossilized corals. The shell, along with the attached pearls, was presented to the client as a gift from a local Digo tribe. It took a month to remove the entire shell from the ground. Similar fossilized giant clam shells have been recovered from areas along the Kenyan coastline (G. Accordi et al., “The raised coral reef complex of the Kenyan coast: Tridacna gigas U-series dates and geological implications,” Journal of African Earth Sciences, Vol. 58, No. 10, 2010, pp. 97–114). These two blister pearls were subsequently removed from the shell and submitted to GIA for identification after cleaning and removing the outermost fossilized debris.

Figure 1. Two natural fossil blister pearls attached to their giant clam host, courtesy of
Volker Bassen London Auction Rooms.
The blister pearls measured approximately 58 × 47 × 45 mm and 85 × 70 × 46 mm and weighed 758 ct and 1256 ct, respectively. The faces of these pearls had a porcelaneous appearance and were smoother than the bases, which were attached to the clam shell. These bases showed chalky rough surfaces and flared forms (figure 2). Numerous natural indentations and cavities were present on their surfaces. In some areas, subtle flame-like structures were also observed at 10× magnification with the use of fiber-optic lighting (figure 3).

Microradiography was not helpful owing to the specimens’ sizes, but Raman spectroscopy was able to detect calcite on both specimens and aragonite on the larger pearl, although it is possible there was aragonite in untested areas on the small pearl. The presence of aragonite in the larger pearl indicates that some of those structures had been replaced by calcite during fossilization.

Figure 2. The two natural fossil blister pearls after removal from the giant clam shell. The left image shows the face-up view, while the right image shows the base of the pearls, where the clam shell was previously attached. Photos by Sood Oil (Judy) Chia.

Figure 3. Porcelaneous and flame-like structures, seen here on the surface of the larger
fossil blister pearl, were observed in some areas under fiber-optic lighting. Photo by Joyce
Wing Yan Ho; field of view 15 mm.
According to the client, the shell in figure 1 was found in the upper layers of secondary fossil reef build-up, suggesting that it lived there during the later Pleistocene period. To the authors, the shell looks similar to that of the present-day Tridacna gigas giant clam, but the client stated that the clam was a precursor called Tridacna gigantea. The large size of these fossil blister pearls, their unique appearance, and the story behind their discovery proved fascinating, and offered valuable gemological and scientific information for future reference. @chapter:14


Publication Year: 2023 Title: Fashion Jewelry Consumption Trends in the Chinese Market, 2025 Abstract: Due to the emergence of a new consumer group in China that emphasizes unique and trendy designs, along with various factors driving jewelry consumption, the jewelry market in China has become large and diverse. Therefore, Thai jewelry business operators must closely monitor the jewelry industry trends in China and keep pace with the consumption trends of all age groups, especially the new generation in China who follow national fashion trends.
Many Chinese jewelry brands incorporate red color designs, which hold significant cultural meanings in Chinese culture. Additionally, symbolic designs are used to convey positive messages, which are adopted by nationally recognized brands such as Tiffany & Co., Pandora, and others in China. This approach aims to align with national trends in China and attract the interest of Chinese consumers.
Simultaneously, online networks play a crucial role in the current Chinese consumer market, facilitating access to products and enhancing brand awareness. Despite the ongoing COVID-19 pandemic, the Chinese consumer market continues to evolve due to widespread online consumption channels. This supports new business models and brand promotion through various internet platforms, enabling Thai entrepreneurs to explore opportunities and effectively expand Thai products in the Chinese market while competing in the industry.
Entrepreneurs should study the industry's developments to capitalize on these opportunities effectively. @chapter:27


Publication Year: 2020 Title: Third Annual Gianmaria Buccellati Foundation Award Winner Abstract: Yi-Hsuan Chiang’s design of an amethyst, diamond, moonstone, conch pearls, coral, black opal, and baroque pearl necklace won the third annual Gianmaria Buccellati Foundation Award. Chiang is a graduate of the Jewelry Design program at GIA in Taiwan.
Yi-Hsuan Chiang, a graduate of GIA’s Jewelry Design program in Taiwan, received the third annual Gianmaria Buccellati Foundation Award for Excellence in Jewelry Design during the Tucson shows. More than 200 students competed this year, and Chiang was one of 18 finalists from seven GIA campuses. Her winning design, of a necklace depicting a butterfly that has fallen into a spider’s web, featured amethyst, diamond, moonstone, conch pearls, coral, black opal, and baroque pearl (see above).
Chiang will travel to Italy to meet Rosa Maria Bresciani Buccellati, president of the foundation, and visit its collection.
Larry French of the foundation said, “The designs that were selected as the 18 finalists and exhibited in Tucson beautifully illustrate the passion and dedication of those who created them. It is in honor of Gianmaria Buccellati’s name that we will welcome, as our guest, Ms. Chiang to Italy.”
The 2020 Gianmaria Buccellati Foundation Award for Excellence in Jewelry Design competition is underway and open to students in GIA’s Jewelry Design courses who meet the eligibility requirements. For more information, visit gia.edu/buccellati-foundation-award-jewelry-design. @chapter:16


Publication Year: 2011 Title: Determining Garnet Composition from Magnetic Susceptibility and Other Properties Abstract: Quantitative measurements of magnetic susceptibility combined with RI or SG data can provide an easy and inexpensive way of inferring garnet composition. At the time this technique was first applied to faceted garnets (Hoover et al., 2008), a reference set of samples with well-characterized compositions was not available. GIA subsequently provided 28 garnets and their chemical data determined by electron microprobe for a comparison with end-member compositions calculated from magnetic susceptibility measurements and other properties. The results show that endmember compositions based on microprobe data have error margins similar to most of those derived from directly measured properties. @chapter:10


Publication Year: 2013 Title: Very Large Rough Diamond Abstract: This 1,138 ct single-crystal natural diamond (62.51 × 47.61 × 45.56 mm) is the largest ever examined by GIA. Photo by Joshua Balduf.

		Throughout history, the discovery of very large diamond rough has been a rare occurrence. Not only is it unlikely to survive the journey from deep in the earth to the surface, but modern extraction methods, including the use of crushers to break large rock, can reduce such specimens to smaller pieces.

			Therefore, the recent examination of a 1,138 ct rough diamond (62.51 × 47.61 × 45.56 mm; pictured above) provided a unique opportunity to document the largest single-crystal natural diamond ever examined by GIA. While it is possible there have been larger unreported specimens, a search of public sources (e.g., I. Balfour, Famous Diamonds, 5th ed., Antique Collectors Club, 2008) suggests this could be the second-largest rough diamond in history—between the 3,106 ct Cullinan and the 995 ct Excelsior, both of gem quality.

			Known to be from the Democratic Republic of the Congo, this stone displayed Raman spectroscopic features characteristic of diamond. The sheer size presented a challenge with IR absorption spectroscopy analysis, as it was too large for the regular sample chamber, beam condenser, or DRIFT units. Instead, we used an infrared microscope with reflective mode and obtained a high-quality absorption spectrum. The rough was identified as a natural type IaA diamond with very high nitrogen concentration. We also detected a weak hydrogen-related absorption peak at 3107 cm–1, a common feature in natural diamond. Also recorded were strong absorption bands at approximately 3300, 2920, 1700, and 1550 cm–1, attributed to micron and sub-micron inclusions. Photoluminescence spectra were recorded at liquid-nitrogen temperature with various laser excitations. The main emission features were broad bands at 700 and 787 nm. The crystal also displayed a very weak blue fluorescence under long- and short-wave ultraviolet radiation, another typical feature.

			The irregular morphology of the 1,138 ct rough was quite interesting, as diamond usually occurs in octahedral or dodecahedral forms. But such a morphology is less likely to be maintained as a large crystal forms. Numerous randomly shaped and distributed inclusions may have contributed to the irregular crystal growth. These inclusions also caused the gray color appearance.

			The specimen’s strong surface dissolution provided a visual document of its journey from deep in the earth. At the high temperatures in the earth’s interior, diamond can remain stable only under very high pressure. As the diamond was transported to the surface, the decrease in pressure would have dissolved the stone unless it made the journey rapidly. The surface of the 1,138 ct crystal speaks to the change that took place during its journey and represents the fine line between our experiencing this rare item and never having known it at all. @chapter:11


Publication Year: 2023 Title: Prospects of high-end jewelry in the Chinese market in 2024 Abstract: Due to the global economic recovery, the high-end jewelry market in China is expected to grow. Financial data from Burberry for the first quarter of 2023 indicated a growth of 46%, with China being a key driver of this growth. Burberry's sales during the three months from May to July 2022 increased by 18% compared to the same period the previous year. Additionally, reports on China's luxury goods market in the first half of 2022, as analyzed by professional consumer research and consulting organizations in China, showed a 24% increase compared to the same period the year before. They forecasted a 10% growth rate for the second half of 2022 and an annual growth rate of about 15%. These data demonstrate that Chinese consumers continue to have strong demand for luxury jewelry and are showing a trend of growth.

In terms of high-end jewelry consumption in China, the continuous increase in consumer purchasing power has led to a higher demand for unique and high-quality products. According to reports from the fashion and luxury goods industry, Chinese consumers have shifted from brand preferences to a focus on quality, design, and uniqueness. One reason for the increased popularity of high-end pearl jewelry in China is its distinct advantages in design, quality, brand image, and price. High-end pearl jewelry is a luxury fashion product with unique characteristics, modern design suitable for daily wear, and specially designed for younger consumers who appreciate novelty. Another reason is that high-end pearl jewelry products are of high quality, well-crafted, often with unique craftsmanship, adding value and distinguishing them from general jewelry products.
Currently, Chinese society places great importance on uniqueness and expressing individual values, leading to continuous promotion and elevation of the luxury jewelry industry in China. Additionally, various jewelry brands have expanded their markets to different cities in China, designing products that cater to different consumer groups. This has facilitated easier consumer access and continuous consumption, increasing the demand for luxury jewelry. The growing economic strength and expanding middle class in China in recent years have been key drivers in the continuous growth of the luxury goods market. These factors are expected to continue driving growth in the high-end jewelry market in China, making it a market to watch on a global scale in the year 2567.

The impact on Thailand's economy and the strategies for adaptation by the government, private sector, and Thai entrepreneurs after the global spread of the COVID-19 virus have been significant. This situation has led to changes in consumer behavior and the emergence of new consumer groups, which in turn have impacted consumption patterns and business models of luxury goods in China as well. Currently, Chinese consumers are showing a greater inclination towards conserving their preferences. Consumption data for pearl jewelry in China indicates an increased investment in luxury goods, especially pearl jewelry and watches that retain value. It is expected that consumption will rapidly increase, with young consumers and consumers from secondary cities in China playing a significant role in driving the growth of luxury goods consumption.

High-quality pearl jewelry products produced through good manufacturing practices, featuring modern luxurious designs with unique characteristics suitable for daily use and appealing to young consumers and consumers from secondary cities in China, will certainly have opportunities in China's high-end jewelry market. @chapter:27


Publication Year: - Title: Pearl History and Lore Abstract: A baroque pearl forms the body of a Triton in this jewel.  © Victoria and Albert Museum, London.

                      People have coveted natural pearls as symbols of wealth and status for thousands of years. A Chinese historian recorded the oldest written mention of natural pearls in 2206 BC. As the centuries progressed toward modern times, desire for natural pearls remained strong. Members of royal families as well as wealthy citizens in Asia, Europe, and elsewhere treasured natural pearls and passed them from generation to generation.

From those ancient times until the discovery of the New World in 1492, some of the outstanding sources of natural pearls were the Persian Gulf, the waters of Ceylon (now Sri Lanka), Chinese rivers and lakes, and the rivers of Europe.

During Christopher Columbus’s third (1498) and fourth (1502) voyages to the New World, he repeatedly encountered native people adorned with natural pearls. His discovery of natural pearl sources in the waters of present-day Venezuela and Panama intensified demand in Europe. However, within a hundred years, these natural pearl sources had declined due to overfishing, pearl culturing, plastic buttons, and oil drilling.

The first steps toward pearl culturing occurred hundreds of years ago in China, and Japanese pioneers successfully produced whole cultured pearls around the beginning of the twentieth century. These became commercially important in the 1920s (about the same time natural pearl production began to decline). From the 1930s through the 1980s, pearl culturing diversified and spread to various countries around the world.

Pearls are treasures from the Earth’s ponds, lakes, seas, and oceans, and they’ve always embodied the mystery, power, and life-sustaining nature of water.

The spherical shape of some pearls led many cultures to associate this gem with the moon. In ancient China, pearls were believed to guarantee protection from fire and fire-breathing dragons. In Europe, they symbolized modesty, chastity, and purity. @chapter:14


Publication Year: 2014 Title: Natural Pearl Aggregates from Pteria Mollusks Abstract: Figure 1. These 10 loose natural pearl aggregates from the Pteria species ranged from dark brown and purple to gray. Photo by Sood Oil (Judy) Chia.

              Both natural and cultured pearls of Pteria-species mollusks from the Gulf of California, Mexico (M. Cariño and M. Monteforte, “History of pearling in La Paz Bay, South Baja California,” Summer 1995 G&G, pp. 88–104; L. Kiefert et al., “Cultured pearls from the Gulf of California, Mexico,” Spring 2004 G&G, pp. 26–38) are examined in GIA laboratories from time to time. But a recent submission to the New York lab of 10 loose pearls, ranging from 8.17 × 7.65 × 3.89 mm to 17.85 × 11.16 × 6.80 mm (figure 1), proved interesting owing to their shapes and internal growth features. All the pearls had a “grapelike” cluster appearance, as if multiple smaller pearls had combined into aggregates. Their colors ranged from dark brown and purple to gray, with strong orient consisting of mainly bluish and pinkish overtones.

Figure 2. Microradiograph images of the pearls revealed multiple growth units with central conchiolin-rich cores in each unit. Images by Yixin (Jessie) Zhou.
Microscopic examination revealed that the pearls formed with continuous nacre layers. Microradiography further demonstrated that their internal structures were composed of multiple small pearls related to their growth (figure 2). Conchiolin-rich centers were observed in all of the sub-units, indicating natural formation. Additional advanced testing (UV-Vis reflectance spectrophotometry, photoluminescence spectroscopy, and EDXRF spectrometry) showed that all 10 of the pearls had a natural color. More importantly, all 10 exhibited medium to strong orangy red to red fluorescence under long-wave UV, which is characteristic of pearls that form in Pteria mollusks (figure 3).

Figure 3. The pearls produced this striking characteristic red fluorescence under long-wave UV. Photo by Jian Xin (Jae) Liao.
Pearls grown from the aggregation of smaller pearls are sometimes associated with freshwater culturing practices (Summer 2012 Lab Notes, pp. 138–139). Yet these samples clearly did not appear to be cultured. Our client later informed us that the pearls were obtained more than 40 years ago, reportedly off the Mexican coast, which further supports the identity of these unique pieces. @chapter:14


Publication Year: - Title: GIA's Gübelin Gem Project: Various Gems, Taaffeite - Zoisite Abstract: Taaffeite
Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA, courtesy Dr. E. J. Gübelin Collection
GIA Collection 34186

Among the collection assembled by Dr. Edward Gübelin are a number of uncommon gemstones from many worldwide localities. Documents, like the ones below, present information on gemstones that range from occasional use in jewelry to those that are quite rare and seldom faceted because of the lack of suitable starting material.

34665

6.23 ct Taaffeite
			Myanmar (PDF)

34186

1.23 ct Taaffeite
			Sri Lanka (PDF)

34188

			2.26 ct Taaffeite
			Sri Lanka (PDF)

34196

			3.23 ct Taaffeite
			Sri Lanka (PDF)

34933

			5.32 ct Taaffeite
			Sri Lanka (PDF)

34183

			11.23 ct Taaffeite
			Sri Lanka (PDF)

34931

			11.23 ct Taaffeite
			Sri Lanka (PDF)

34298

			4.18 ct Titanite
			Brazil (PDF)

34021

			2.86 ct Titanite
			India (PDF)

34219

			3.26 ct Titanite
			India (PDF)

34332

			20.86 ct Titanite
			India (PDF)

34376

			5.83 ct Titanite
			Kenya (PDF)

34430

			7.87 ct Titanite
			Madagascar (PDF)

34431

			13.00 ct Titanite
			Madagascar (PDF)

35538

			0.84 ct Titanite
			Mexico (PDF)

35535

			1.26 ct Titanite
			Mexico (PDF)

34208

			4.13 ct Titanite
			Mexico (PDF)

34228

			6.96 ct Titanite
			Mexico (PDF)

34216

			7.85 ct Titanite
			Mexico (PDF)

34206

			8.18 ct Titanite
			Mexico (PDF)

34221

			10.00 ct Titanite
			Mexico (PDF)

34226

			3.11 ct Titanite
			Pakistan (PDF)

34980

			2.61 ct Titanite
			Switzerland (PDF)

33580

			5.11 ct Topaz
			Brazil (PDF)

33566

			7.50 ct Topaz
			Brazil (PDF)

33563

			9.36 ct Topaz
			Brazil (PDF)

33568

			13.00 ct Topaz
			Brazil (PDF)

33572

			14.33 ct Topaz
			Brazil (PDF)

34304

			14.48 ct Topaz
			Brazil (PDF)

34303

			17.07 ct Topaz
			Brazil (PDF)

33551

			19.84 ct Topaz
			Brazil (PDF)

33584

			18.41 ct Topaz
			Pakistan (PDF)

33552

			14.32 ct Topaz
			Russia (PDF)

34944

			21.02 ct Topaz
			Sri Lanka (PDF)

33547

			21.84 ct Topaz
			Sri Lanka (PDF)

35244

			8.71 ct Willemite
			The United States (PDF)

33556

			20.66 ct Topaz
			The United States (PDF)

35250

			25.04 ct Topaz
			Zimbabwe (PDF)

35258

			25.67 ct Topaz
			Zimbabwe (PDF)

35465

			22.14 ct Ulexite
			The United States (PDF)

35543

			3.17 ct Vesuvianite
			Kenya (PDF)

34383

			3.61 ct Vesuvianite
			Tanzania (PDF)

34385

			4.38 ct Vesuvianite
			Tanzania (PDF)

34384

			4.92 ct Vesuvianite
			Tanzania (PDF)

34386

			8.23 ct Vesuvianite
			Tanzania (PDF)

35242

			0.82 ct Vivianite
			The United States (PDF)

34732

			4.41 ct Willemite
			Namibia (PDF)

35547

			2.42 ct Willemite
			The United States (PDF)

35546

			9.54 ct Willemite
			The United States (PDF)

34123

			10.15 ct Willemite
			The United States (PDF)

35548

			18.35 ct Witherite
			The United Kingdom (PDF)

35518

			4.67 ct Wollastonite
			Canada (PDF)

34733

			6.40 ct Wulfenite
			Namibia (PDF)

35554

			2.03 ct Wulfenite
			The United States (PDF)

35247

			5.41 ct Wulfenite
			The United States (PDF)

35520

			16.05 ct Zincite
			Poland (PDF)

35204

			7.36 ct Zincite
			The United States (PDF)

34127

			12.20 ct Zoisite
			Locality not stated (PDF)

35075

			2.96 ct Zoisite
			Tanzania (PDF)

35072

			3.20 ct Zoisite
			Tanzania (PDF)

35620

			5.00 ct Zoisite
			Tanzania (PDF)

35522

			6.11 ct Zoisite
			Tanzania (PDF)

34134

			7.10 ct Zoisite
			Tanzania (PDF)

34129

			8.85 ct Zoisite - Tanzanite
			Tanzania (PDF)

35038

			11.18 ct Zoisite - Tanzanite
			Tanzania (PDF)

34128

			11.98 ct Zoisite - Tanzanite
			Tanzania (PDF) @chapter:3


Publication Year: 2005 Title: A Gemological Pioneer: Dr. Edward J. Gübelin Abstract: During a career that spanned more than 65 years, the eminent Swiss gemologist Dr. Edward J. Gübelin (1913–2005) built a monumental legacy. He is perhaps best known for his pioneering work on gemstone inclusions. He established the first systematic classification of inclusions in natural gem minerals, and his research demonstrated the importance of these internal features in determining a gem’s identity as well as its country of origin. He wrote extensively on nearly all aspects of gemology, eloquently recording his observations in 13 major books and more than 250 articles. A widely traveled explorer, Dr. Gübelin also reported on some of the world’s most important gem localities. In addition, he was an innovator in gem-testing instruments, an influential educator, a major gem collector, and one of gemology’s most ardent and respected global ambassadors.

	DATA DEPOSITORY

Chronological Bibliography of Articles by Edward J. Gübelin
	Submitted by Robert E. Kane
	January 18, 2006 @chapter:23


Publication Year: 1981 Title: Revolution in Diamond Cutting: Laser Sawing of Diamond Crystals Abstract: Laser sawing of diamonds is beginning to revolutionize the diamond-cutting industry. Not only does the laser saw offer savings in time and money, but it also enables the cutting of material virtually unworkable by conventional methods and makes available an almost limitless assortment of fancy shapes. This article describes the components and operation of the laser saw, as well as the situations in which it has proved most useful. @chapter:31


Publication Year: - Title: Survey Shows: Diamond Sales Increased Last Year Abstract: Retail diamond jewelry sales topped $77 billion worldwide, according to a recent survey. The U.S. accounted for about half of that total. Above, a sales associate at Finell's Jewelers in Carlsbad, California shows a diamond ring to a customer. Photo by Valerie Power/GIA

Retail sales of diamond jewelry worldwide totaled an estimated US $77.5 billion in 2017, up from $74.6 billion in 2016, according to a survey by Tacy/Pharos Beam Consulting. This was the first sales increase in two years, according to the survey.

On the mining side, Tacy reports that the total mine production cost of rough diamonds was $7.5 billion last year, which nearly doubled to $14.72 billion in mine sales to the industry. De Beers sold $5.27 billion; Alrosa sold $4.17 billion; and other sales totaled $5.28 billion.

Diamond manufacturers’ polished output totaled $20.15 billion at wholesale prices, but sold $19.7 million into the market, leading to a supply overhang. Tacy estimates that some $300 million in recycled diamonds re-entered the market last year. Some sources peg that total at more than $1 billion, however.

De Beers’ Diamond Insight estimate of world diamond retail sales last year is $82 billion, with the U.S. accounting for $42.5 billion. Tacy puts U.S. sales at $37.3 billion. Tacy combines China with Hong Kong/Macau and Taiwan ($11.89 billion) while De Beers lists China mainland sales only ($9.85 billion.)

De Beers’ rough sales at its July cycle were lower than expected, about 8% below the July 2017 allocation and well below June’s totals. The $530 million sales total “reflected the seasonally quieter summer sales period for the midstream (diamond manufacturing) sector,” said CEO Bruce Cleaver.
DE BEERS MINES
De Beers is closing or selling mines at a much greater rate than it is commissioning new ones. Three years ago, it sold off nearly all of its South African operations and last year closed the Snap Lake Mine in Canada. It will also close the Victor mine in Canada and possibly shut its Namibian land operations next year.

De Beers will have only one operating diamond mine in South Africa by the end of this year: the Venetia operation, which is undergoing a $1.5 billion conversion to an underground mine. The company decided to close the Voorspoed mine in December, after 10 years of operation, because of high operating costs. Continuing production would have involved an expensive enlargement of the open pit and the grade was far below average, with revenues averaging less than $50 per ton, which is only about 20% the grade of its most profitable operations. The mine produces about 800,000 carats yearly and is a partnership between De Beers and the South Africa Black-Empowerment enterprise, Ponahalo Holdings.

The company’s only new mine this decade is the Gahcho Kue mine in Northern Canada, which it commissioned early last year. @chapter:30


Publication Year: 2022 Title: The Type IIb De Beers Cullinan Blue Diamond Abstract: Figure 1. The 15.10 ct De Beers Cullinan Blue diamond. Photo by Towfiq Ahmed.
Type IIb blue diamonds are extremely rare in nature. When people think of blue diamonds, the Hope diamond immediately springs to mind. The famed 45.52 ct Fancy Deep grayish blue cushion-cut treasure, now housed in the Smithsonian National Museum of Natural History in Washington, DC, has a long and fascinating history. First examined by GIA in 1960 and graded by GIA in 1988 (R. Crowningshield, “Grading the Hope diamond,” Summer 1989 G&G, pp. 91–94), it shares many special gemological characteristics with other rare type IIb (boron-containing) diamonds such as the Wittelsbach-Graff, once assumed to be cut from the same rough crystal as the Hope. Here we report another special diamond of this group.

De Beers Cullinan Blue Diamond

Recently graded by GIA and the recipient of a special monograph report was a 15.10 ct (17.47 × 11.53 × 7.94 mm) Fancy Vivid blue cut-cornered rectangular step cut. Named the De Beers Cullinan Blue diamond (figure 1; see video), it was cut from a 39.34 ct rough type IIb diamond crystal mined by Petra from the Cullinan (formerly Premier) mine in South Africa. Compared to the Hope and Wittelsbach-Graff, both of which were mined in the Golconda region of India, the De Beers Cullinan Blue has some important similarities in gemological and spectroscopic features but shows clear variations. Natural type IIb blue diamonds over 10 carats are exceedingly rare.
The blue color is distributed evenly throughout the stone. Visual observation under a gem microscope revealed a very clean stone. No inclusions or graining were observed. Accordingly, the diamond received a clarity grade of Internally Flawless. Under conventional long-wave and short-wave UV radiation, it showed no observable fluorescence or phosphorescence. This feature is dramatically different from that of the Hope and Wittelsbach-Graff, two large type IIb blue diamonds that exhibit strong and prolonged red phosphorescence to conventional short-wave UV radiation.

Figure 2. The mid-infrared spectrum of the type IIb De Beers Cullinan Blue
diamond.
The absorption spectrum in the mid-infrared region showed typical absorption features related to boron in diamond, such as strong absorption at ~2800 cm–1 and a weak absorption peak in the range of 1332–1200 cm–1 (figure 2). The intensities of these absorptions indicated a high concentration of uncompensated boron of ~0.33 ppm. Natural type IIb diamonds typically contain 0.24–0.36 ppm (E. Gaillou et al., “Study of the Blue Moon diamond,” Winter 2014 G&G, pp. 280–286). The diamond’s boron concentration is close to that of the Hope (~0.36 ppm) and higher than that of the Wittelsbach-Graff (~0.19 ppm). Absorption from boron is the main contributor of color in natural type IIb diamonds.

Figure 3. Observed with cross-polarized light was a strong tatami strain pattern with a dark gray color. Photo by Madelyn Dragone.
Observation with a gemological microscope equipped with crossed polarizers revealed a clear tatami pattern with a dark gray color (figure 3). Both the Wittelsbach-Graff and the Hope have different patterns and higher interference colors, a good indication that the De Beers Cullinan Blue has a much less distorted lattice structure. Under very strong short-wave UV, this diamond showed a weak aqua blue fluorescence with a subtle network of dislocations in the crystal structure, a pattern clearly different from the tight mosaic patterns observed in the Hope and the Wittelsbach-Graff (figure 4) (Gaillou et al., 2014).

Figure 4. Under very strong short-wave UV, a weak aqua blue fluorescence with a subtle network of dislocations was observed (top). After exposure, a weak pinkish red phosphorescence was observed (bottom). Images by Stephanie Persaud.
These blue diamonds are among the rarest of gems. Recent research (E. Smith et al., “Blue boron-bearing diamonds from Earth’s lower mantle,” Nature, Vol. 560, No. 7716, 2018, pp. 84–87) has demonstrated that their boron derived from pieces of the earth’s crust sinking to the extremely deep depths of diamond formation. The gemological characteristics of the De Beers Cullinan Blue suggest it is one of these superdeep diamonds. Its combination of Fancy Vivid blue color grade in a step cut (a cut that does not enhance color, unlike other faceting styles) (see video), 15.10 ct weight, and Internally Flawless clarity grade is exceptionally rare. It will remain one of the world’s most important diamonds. @chapter:35


Publication Year: 1991 Title: Fracture Filling of Emeralds Opticon and Traditional "Oils" Abstract: The filling of surface-reaching breaks in emeralds is a relatively common practice, for which various kinds of oils and a natural resin have historically been used. Now, however, epoxy resins are replacing the more traditional fillers such as cedarwood oil and Canada balsam. The most widely known of these epoxy resins is sold under the brand name Opticon. The results of a broad study of various fracture-filling materials found that Opticon treatment (1) was, like the traditional materials, best detected using magnification with a variety of lighting techniques; and (2) although somewhat more durable than the traditional enhancements, was still altered in the course of routine jewelry cleaning and manufacturing processes. This article also examines the filling of surface pits with epoxies, the potential effectiveness of "dyed" Opticon, and the use of Opticon to fill the fractures in gem materials other than emerald. @chapter:17