Publication Year: - Title: Winter 2018 G&G: The Color Origins of Pink-to-Red Diamonds and Gem-Grade Diaspore, and Gemological Characteristics of Pearls from P. Maculata Abstract: Gemstones are often shrouded in mystery, waiting for the right team to tease out their origins and identifying characteristics. The Winter 2018 issue of Gems & Gemology reveals the color origins of breathtaking pink diamonds, the fascinating story behind Russia’s Amber Room, and insight into the rare natural “pipi” pearls from Pinctada maculata mollusks. Also included are the color origins of the color-change diaspore known as Zultanite; the unusual combination of corundum core and spinel rim that emerges from a deposit in northern Vietnam; and a new wall chart of internal features in natural, synthetic, and treated diamond.
Natural-Color Pink, Purple, Red, and Brown Diamonds: Band of Many Colors
Fancy-color diamonds in the pink to red range have been in the public eye thanks to the recent auction of the Winston Pink Legacy for $50 million. Gem-quality diamonds in this color range are exceedingly rare and highly valued. In this third article in& G&G’s series on colored diamonds, Sally Eaton-Magaña and her coauthors survey the characteristics of the more than 90,000 diamonds in the pink to red color range—which includes browns and purples—examined by GIA between 2008 and 2016.
The History and Reconstruction of the Amber Room
The original Amber Room, constructed for the king of Prussia, contained panels of magnificently carved and decorated Baltic amber. This sumptuous room was gifted to Russia in the early eighteenth century and eventually installed in the Catherine Palace near St. Petersburg. It remained in place until World War II, when German troops seized the panels and the palace was destroyed. The panels were last seen in 1945, and their disappearance remains a mystery. Russell Shor’s article recounts the history of the original Amber Room as well as the decades-long effort to faithfully restore it.
The Color Origin of Gem Diaspore: Correlation to Corundum
Color-change diaspore, also known as Zultanite, is an increasingly important material in the gem market. Che Shen and Ren Lu examine the material’s color origin using spectroscopy and laser ablation–inductively coupled plasma–mass spectrometry (LA-ICP-MS). Because gem diaspore and corundum are structurally similar and share the same chromophores, the study also compares the effectiveness of chromophores between the two.
Corundum with Spinel Corona from the Tan Huong–Truc Lau Area in Northern Vietnam
In primary and secondary placer deposits of Vietnam’s Tan Huong–Truc Lau area, it is not unusual to find rubies and sapphire with a spinel “rim” or corona. A team of researchers led by Nguyen Ngoc Khoi studied dozens of these specimens in an effort to explain the genesis of the corona. They theorize that during a certain stage of high-grade metamorphism, corundum reacts with biotite, garnet, or dolomite to form the spinel corona.
The Gemological Characteristics of Pipi Pearls Reportedly from Pinctada Maculata
Nanthaporn Nilpetploy and her coauthors review the rare natural pearls from the Pinctada maculata mollusk known as “pipi” pearls. Spectroscopic results showed some characteristic patterns in these small pearls, such as a distinct absorption feature around 495 nm in the UV-Vis spectra and peaks at 1380 and 1540 cm–1 in the Raman spectra. Findings from the study may aid in the separation of pipi pearls from material produced by other related mollusk species.
Inclusions in Natural, Synthetic, and Treated Diamond
Our chart series on the internal world of gemstones continues with diamond, displaying the most common inclusions in 30 stunning photomicrographs captured by Nathan Renfro, John Koivula, Jonathan Muyal, and Shane McClure. The foldout wall chart is accompanied by a short article about diamond inclusions and a suggested reading list.
Lab Notes
GIA’s labs around the world receive specimens that are striking or noteworthy. The Winter issue includes entries on a rare ruby from the state of Montana; a cat’s-eye Paraíba tourmaline from Brazil; and analysis of De Beers’ Lightbox CVD-grown diamonds.
Diamonds from the Deep
Our newest column focuses on the geology of natural diamonds. In this installment, Karen Smit and Steven Shirey explore the formation and importance of so-called “superdeep” diamonds, those that form outside of the conventional depths (150–200 km) within the mantle at depths of at least 410 to 660 km.
Micro-World
G&G’s quarterly gallery of gemstone inclusions offers a rose-shaped inclusion in a demantoid host, a zircon and monazite cluster in an Ethiopian sapphire, and a large, well-formed rutile inclusion in a rock crystal quartz.
Gem News International
Our correspondents from around the world contribute their most recent news and findings to the Gem News International section. This edition features preliminary observations of sapphires treated with heat and pressure, a coated pink synthetic moissanite, and a synthetic moissanite imitating a rough diamond.
2018 Dr. Edward J. Gübelin Most Valuable Article Award
Gems & Gemology once again invites our readers to vote on the three most important articles from the past year. Each completed ballot is entered into a drawing for a one-year subscription to G&G. Ballots for the 2018 Most Valuable Article Award must be submitted by March 11, 2019. @chapter:23


Publication Year: - Title: Panyu: A Legendary Manufacturing Hub for the Global Gem and Jewelry Industry Abstract: The Pearl River is the third longest river in China. It cuts through the city of Guangzhou and connects some of the most developed areas in southern China. The scenery along the river has become a main tourist attraction. Photo by Eric Welch/GIA.

                      When talking about jewelry manufacturing, one can’t ignore Panyu, a small district of Guangzhou, the capital of China’s Guangdong province. Panyu is located at the center of the Pearl River Delta, one of mainland China’s most economically developed areas. Over the past 30 years, Panyu has gradually evolved into one of the world’s main jewelry manufacturing centers. This was made possible by its well-established transportation network and the tight connection with its “twin city” of Hong Kong, along with the support of the central and local governments.

The gem and jewelry industry in Panyu was established in 1986, and now accounts for about 25 percent of Hong Kong’s and mainland China’s combined annual jewelry exports and 60 percent of annual nationwide jewelry production. Panyu workers set more than 70 tons of colored stones into jewelry every year. Panyu’s jewelry exports surged from $2.53 billion in 2011 to $4.13 billion in 2013, with an annual growth rate of almost 28 percent. Seventy percent of jewelry exported from Hong Kong and 90 percent of jewelry branded and sold in Hong Kong is manufactured in Panyu.

In recent years, Hong Kong producers have placed more emphasis on the creative and design side of jewelry manufacturing, leading to higher labor costs. As a result, mass commercial production has mostly moved to Panyu, merging its gem and jewelry industry with Hong Kong’s. Currently, many local and international jewelry brands manufacture their products in Panyu.

Panyu also has more than 1,600 colored stone cutting factories. Panyu gem cutters created the world famous “China Cut” for diamonds and colored stones. It has now become a worldwide brand and the pride of Chinese gem and jewelry manufacturers.

Location Map

The Pearl River Delta enjoys an ideal geographical location and a close connection to Hong Kong. These factors have made it one of the most economically developed areas in mainland China since the country opened to the rest of the world in the late 1970s.
In the summer of 2013, GIA sent a team to explore the Chinese gem and jewelry industry. They were guided by Mr. Wilson Yun, an ex-president of the International Colored Gemstone Association (ICA). Mr. Yun introduced the GIA team to local industry leaders and provided us with an in-depth view of the many attributes of this legendary area.

	Panyu Gem and Jewelry Industry

	Panyu Gem and Jewelry Industry

	Shawan Jewelry Park: A One-Stop Solution
Shawan is a subsidiary district of Panyu. The Shawan Jewelry Park was originally established in 2002 as a gold manufacturing center but its management and strategy changed after 2006. It is now home to jewelry factories, trading offices, an industry service center, and trade organizations. It also hosts tourists and has a large-scale living area for factory employees. In the park, the GIA team visited a well-known jewelry factory and the central business service center.

Noble Jewelry Holdings Ltd. is a Hong Kong-based company that was formed in 1983. The company specializes in jewelry design, manufacture, and trading. It was one of the first companies to set its factory in Shawan Jewelry Park. Thirty percent of its products are exported to the Middle East, making the company one of the largest suppliers of high-end jewelry in the area.

Many well-known jewelry brands have established factories in the Shawan Jewelry Park. The park’s scenery features attractive buildings and bold sculptures. Photo by Eric Welch/GIA.
Our group was highly impressed with the factory’s design department, considered by Noble to be at the core of its market competitiveness. The department is divided into groups that specialize in designs for different countries and areas. Designers are predominantly young college graduates with jewelry design majors. To keep up with the fashion trends, the company invests in sending its designers to study different countries and areas. These efforts make it possible for Noble to debut over 10,000 jewelry designs each year. Many of them have won domestic and international design awards.

	Noble JewelryManufacturing Plant

	Noble Jewelry Manufacturing Plant
The park’s management provides a central service center to facilitate business for its members. Customs, express transportation, and gem-testing services are all located inside the center. Business owners can complete all of the necessary steps to export their goods without leaving the park.

	Shawan Jewelry Park

	Shawan Jewelry Park
Besides providing services for the business enterprises, the park also has a large dormitory area for employees. Comfortable living conditions and a safe and friendly environment help to attract young workers to Panyu. Skillful and productive young workers are important for the future of China’s gem and jewelry industry, as increased human labor costs have become a serious problem for many business owners.

	Colored Stone Cutting
Colored stone cutting is another pillar of the Panyu gem and jewelry industry. The team visited the cutting factory of Hutang Gems & Jewelry Ltd., founded in 1992. Mr.Wu Jianping, owner of Hutang, informed us that he started the business in Guangdong and moved to Panyu after a few years. What keeps him in Panyu are the strong government support of the industry, the business services, and the rich human and economic resources.

Mr. Wu also proudly expressed to us that the key to his success in the current global industry is that he maintains very strict quality control in his factory, which currently adds more quality control staff than cutters and goldsmiths.

	Hutang Cutting Factory

	Hutang Cutting Factory
The gemstones cut in Mr. Wu’s factory include peridot, amethyst, citrine, garnet, and chrome diopside. The company has been transformed from simply a colored stone cutting business to one that includes both stone cutting and jewelry design and manufacturing. Mr. Wu plans to develop his business to cover the whole value chain, from mine to market, in the future. Currently, most production is for export. He has already opened trading offices in Hong Kong and Los Angeles, California, US. In 2013, he invested in an e-commerce team to establish a company sales website.

Hutang, with more than 23 years of experience in colored stone cutting, recently started its own jewelry manufacturing enterprise. Hutang also opened a sales office in Los Angeles to target the US market. Courtesy Hutang.

The Greater Panyu Area: Shared benefits and resources
Many of Panyu’s existing resources are shared with its surrounding towns, a few of which have also developed into jewelry manufacturing hubs. Hong Kong’s big three—Chow Tai Fook, Chow Sang Sang, and Luk Fook—have all opened factories in the greater Panyu area.

Chow Tai Fook has both its diamond cutting and jewelry manufacturing facilities in Foshan, a city immediately to the west of Panyu. Earlier this year, Chow Sang Sang also opened a center in Foshan to further raise its production capacity in mainland China. The jeweler moved from Guangzhou to Hong Kong in 1948 and had 298 stores on the mainland by the end of 2013.

In 2003, Luk Fook opened its jewelry factory in Nansha District, immediately to the south of Panyu. Luk Fook was founded in Hong Kong in 1991. As the youngest of the big three, its growth in mainland China has been extremely fast. The jeweler operates 1,350 retail stores globally.

Chow Tai Fook is the largest jewelry retailer in the world. Its diamond cutting facility and jewelry manufacturing plant are both located in Foshan, a town immediately to the west of Panyu. Courtesy Chow Tai Fook.
In 1988, Yue Shun Fook Jewelry and Diamond Co. Ltd. opened its first diamond cutting and jewelry manufacturing factories in Foshan. The company, which had partnered with Chow Tai Fook for a long time, finally became a subsidiary of Chow Tai Fook in 2011. The GIA team visited both the Chow Tai Fook diamond cutting (http://www.gia.edu/gia-news-research-chowtai-fook-hsu) and jewelry manufacturing factories in Foshan.

	Chow Tai Fook is a DTC sightholder. Its diamond wedding jewelry is a best-seller in China.
	All the work—from rough diamond cutting to finished ring—is done in Foshan. Courtesy
	Chow Tai Fook.

After our tour of the jewelry factory, executive staff introduced their product strategy and showed us some representative high-end jewelry pieces. The factory applies both traditional and advanced techniques. Some of their lines are manufactured using automatic wax injection into rubber molds. This process can increase efficiency by 20 percent with about 5 percent less product failure. Laser welding technology is used to fix the surface defects that result from precious metal casting, such as very tiny pits. Its use is not very common among small-scale jewelry manufacturers.

They use die-striking and electroforming to make some commercial gold jewelry and decorations, while other high-end jewelry is made by hand. All employees are very focused on the details of their work, and commonly use jewelers’ loupes for quality checks. The skill, efficiency, and technology this manufacturer demands are all at the forefront of their operating philosophy.

	Chow Tai Fook Jewelry Factory

	Chow Tai Fook Jewelry Factory

	Transformation and Upgrading
Besides the Pearl River Delta cluster of jewelry industry firms, there are two other clusters in mainland China: the Yangtze River Delta cluster and the Bohai Coastal Region cluster. Clustering offers shared resources, reduced costs, and mass promotion and helps to increase the competitiveness of the local industry.

Jewelry Clusters

After more than 30 years of development, three major gem and jewelry industry clusters have formed along the east and southeast coasts of China.
Compared to the other two younger clusters, Panyu had its golden development period at the beginning of the 1980s, when labor costs were extremely low. Along with the critical geographic location and strong initial investment, the low start-up costs made this region to some degree the best jewelry industry cluster so far in China.

The Chow Tai Fook jewelry manufacturing plant in Foshan employs highly skilled stone setters. Incorporating technology, such as advanced microscopes, aids in intricate stone-setting and also helps increase quality and production to overcome higher labor costs. Courtesy Chow Tai Fook.
The situation has changed a lot in the past decade. The lowest monthly wages in Guangzhou have increased from 770 to 1550 yuan (about US $125 to $250) over the past 10 years, while the price of jewelry products has not changed very much. Many jewelry manufacturers claim they have had to raise employees’ wages about 15 percent each year over the past several years. Thus, their profit margin is narrowing. Another problem arises from the reliance on exports and external economies.

To address the increasing costs, many factories have invested in more-advanced manufacturing technologies to reduce long-term labor costs, and opened online sales platforms. For example, Shawan Jewelry Industry Park has launched an e-commerce platform that provides services such as warehousing, import and export customs clearance, transportation, and even insurance.

According to the director of the Panyu branch of the China Council for the Promotion of International Trade (CCPIT), the jewelry industry will have to expand further into the domestic market. The Guangzhou Panyu Jewelry Manufacturers Association also works together with business owners to brand the products from all over the Panyu and Pearl River Delta industrial cluster.

The first annual Guangzhou Panyu Jewelry Cultural Festival was held in Panyu at the end of November, 2014. This event will become an annual platform designed specifically for local businesses to display their products and images and to promote jewelry made in Panyu to the rest of the country and the world. Almost all of the participants agree that innovation, technology, and branding will be the key factors keeping the industry advancing in the future. @chapter:27


Publication Year: 1989 Title: Chicken-Blood Stone from China Abstract: "Chicken-blood" stone is one of the most prized ornamental materials in China, especially for use in elaborate carvings and seals. A fine-grained mixture of dickite/kaolinite and quartz, with varying amounts of red cinnabar, chicken-blood stone is found in only two localities in China: Chunghua and Balinyouqi. This article describes this material and its gemological properties as well as the occurrence at the two known localities. @chapter:37


Publication Year: - Title: Turquoise Quality Factors Abstract: The green turquoise cabochon, from an American mine, might become part of a designer’s unique jewelry piece. The even blue color of the cabochon on the right would be called “Persian blue” in the trade. Photo: Robert Weldon/GIA, Dr. Eduard J. Gübelin collection.

Fine-quality turquoise is sought after around the world by designers of unusual jewelry pieces.

Typically, turquoise is judged on three basic quality factors—color, texture, and the presence or absence of matrix.
Turquoise Color
Blue Turquoise
The most-prized turquoise color is an even, intense, medium blue, sometimes referred to as robin’s egg blue or sky blue in the trade. The traditional source for this color is the Nishapur district of Iran, so you’ll also hear it described as “Persian blue,” whether or not it was actually mined in Iran.

Green Turquoise
Generally speaking, turquoise with a green to greenish blue color is less desirable than turquoise with a pure blue hue, but it depends on personal preference. There are some contemporary designers who actively seek avocado and lime green turquoise.

The turquoise in the brooch and graduated bead strands is from Arizona’s Sleeping Beauty Mine. Its smooth, even color represents the appearance prized by most collectors. - Photo: Valerie Power/GIA. Courtesy: GLEAM
- Courtesy GLEAM
Turquoise Pattern
Turquoise can be semitranslucent to opaque, with a color that usually ranges from light to medium blue or greenish blue. It’s often mottled and sometimes has dark splotches. It might also have veins of matrix running through it (matrix is a remnant of its surrounding rock). The material known as spiderweb turquoise contains fine seams of matrix that form attractive web-like patterns.

These free-form turquoise cabochons show a typical matrix pattern. Photo: GIA
The most valuable turquoise is an even medium blue, with no matrix and the ability to take a good polish.
Turquoise Cut
Turquoise is most often cut as a cabochon. The smoothly rounded dome shape sets off turquoise’s color, texture, and any matrix beautifully. In addition, manufacturers and artisans fashion turquoise into round or oblong beads for strand necklaces, and into small, flat pieces that are popular in jewelry inlays. Some top-color blue turquoise is engraved with Persian or Arabic inscriptions, inlaid with gold. Lower-quality rough material might be tumbled into “nuggets."

This stylish and unusual “Pegged Nugget” bracelet contains about 100 flat turquoise nuggets that are attached with flat silver pegs. -– Photo: Maha Tannous/GIA. Gift of Robert Lee Morris

This intarsia box created by Nicolai Medvedev includes flat pieces of turquoise as part of its inlaid design. -– Photo © GIA & Tino Hammid, gift of Carol and Fred Seeman
Turquoise Carat Weight
Turquoise is weighed in carats, and five carats equal one gram. Turquoise is available in a wide range of sizes. All sizes, even very small stones, are used in Native American jewelry, and large pieces of turquoise rough are popular for carvings. For any size, the quality and evenness of the color is the overriding value factor.

A single large piece of rough can yield severalmuch smaller pieces of fine, evenly colored turquoise. A gem cutter has to work around the host rock to avoid ending up with a much less valuable gem. Photo: GIA, Dr. Eduard J. Gübelin collection. @chapter:3


Publication Year: - Title: An Inside Look at the 2013 Tucson Shows Abstract: View Gallery

Every February, in Tucson, Arizona, the global colored gemstone industry comes together for one of the biggest gem shows in the world. Dealers, cutters, and miners descend on this town from all parts of the globe, bringing with them an amazing array of gems.

All kinds of gemstones, from emerald to agate and ruby to meteorites, are found in Tucson at this time, along with the industry leaders who bring these stones to market.

GIA interviewed a number of industry professionals to gain insight into the overall global market, as well as individual areas of expertise. Links to these informative interviews are listed below.

Rajneesh Bhandari, RMC Gems Thai Co. Ltd.
Mr. Bhandari is an expert in gem treatments, gemstone synthesis processes, and the creation of imitation gemstones. All of these are topics of the utmost importance to the trade and consumers alike. In these interviews, Mr. Bhandari discusses imitations of morganite beryl and bi-color tourmaline as well as the use of thin film coatings on gemstones and the future of treatments.
Learn More

Dudley Blauwet, Dudley Blauwet Gems
Mr. Blauwet is a colored gemstone dealer with decades of experience. His journeys to buy colored gemstones take him to deposits all over the world, including South East Asia, Central Asia, Africa and other localities. Join Mr. Blauwet as he describes his latest travels and the world’s supply of colored gemstones.
Learn More

Edward Boehm, Rare Source
Mr. Boehm is a geologist, gemologist, and accomplished gem dealer who works with rare and higher-end gems. He has traveled to a wide variety of gem sources across the globe and often speaks on both the supply and demand side of the market. Mr. Boehm discusses the overall colored gemstone market as well as markets for specific gemstones in his interviews.
Learn More

Bruce Bridges, Bridges Tsavorite
Mr. Bridges grew up in the colored gemstone market, working with his famous father Campbell Bridges at the prolific tsavorite-producing Scorpion Mine near Tsavo Park in Kenya. Mr. Bridges discusses the history of tsavorite mining, current production, and tsavorite qualities, as well as the assassination of his father and the current legal situation.
Learn More

Evan Caplan, Evan Caplan Fine Gemstones
Mr. Caplan is well known in the colored gemstone industry as a knowledgeable dealer in the upper end of the market. In his interviews, Mr. Caplan gives his insight into why supplies are tight and demand is high, as well as what he feels lies ahead.
Learn More

Paula Crevoshay, Crevoshay
Paula Crevoshay is a world renowned designer who is driven by uncompromising passion for her work. She has been dubbed the “Queen of Color” by the trade press. In these interviews, she conveys her philosophy of jewelry design and her sources of inspiration. She also describes some of her own magnificent pieces in detail.
Learn More

Michael M. Dyber, Ledge Art Studio
Mr. Dyber is a leading designer-gemstone cutter and carver. He has faceted and carved a variety of gemstones. He looks at the rough material and its potential as a true artist would. In these extensive interviews, Mr. Dyber discusses all aspects of artistic gem cutting and carving.
Learn More

Arthur Groom, Arthur Groom and Company
Mr. Groom is an expert on the emerald market as well as on emerald enhancement. His business encompasses buying rough emerald at sources around the world, including Afghanistan, as well as emerald cutting and enhancements, wholesale trading, and retail sales. In his interviews, Mr. Groom discusses the Afghan emerald market, evaluation of emerald rough, and describing emerald quality. During the interview, he describes a variety of emeralds he has on hand.
Learn More

Bob Halem, Manager, Royal West Warehouse
Mr. Halem was at the Tucson show with a large variety of quartz geodes as part of his inventory. He spoke to us on a wealth of topics, from geode sources, quartz treatments, geode cutting, evaluating geode qualities, packing geodes, and the geode business.
Learn More

Susie Kennedy, ICA Director, Susie Kennedy Jewelry, Ltd. and The Kennedy’s International
Mrs. Kennedy has been involved in all aspects of the colored stone industry. With her husband, she has truly been involved in the entire mine-to-market value chain. In her interviews, Mrs. Kennedy discusses gemstone production and the industry in East Africa and the future of mining in Africa. She also describes her start in the gem industry and gives perhaps the best advice around on building a career and creating a networking system in the gem business. Mrs. Kennedy also describes how she met a tight deadline to provide then-Secretary of State Hillary Clinton with a magnificent pair of tanzanite earrings for a dinner with the President of Tanzania.
Learn More

Moussa Konate, BC Gemas do Brazil
Mr. Konate is intimately involved in the mining of copper-bearing tourmaline, as well as some aquamarine, in Mozambique. He has been a driving force in copper-bearing tourmaline production. During his interviews, Mr. Konate discusses current production of copper-bearing tourmaline in Mozambique, changes at the mine site, the market for African copper-bearing tourmaline, and the Mozambique aquamarine mine he is involved in.
Learn More

Jeff Mason, President, Mason-Kay, Inc.
Mr. Mason is highly experienced in the jadeite market and is a prominent dealer of a variety of jadeite colors and cutting styles. In these interviews, he discusses the highly specialized market for jadeite, as well as jadeite treatments and carvings.
Learn More

Sam Naseri, Global Gems
Mr. Naseri was at Tucson with a large quantity of rough lapis lazuli, along with other materials like sugilite, and a variety of beads. He has been in the gem business since childhood and travels to Afghanistan to buy lapis lazuli. In his interviews, Mr. Naseri discusses all aspects of trading in lapis lazuli from Afghanistan, including government regulations, transportation of material, evaluating quality, old and new production, mine locations, and the market.
Learn More

Bryan Pavlik, ICA Director
Mr. Pavlik has been involved in many areas of the colored gemstone industry, including mining, buying of rough, gem cutting, dealing in loose colored stones and mineral specimens, jewelry, gemological laboratory work, appraisals for the Austrian Government, and liquidations.  During his interviews, Mr. Pavlik discusses the liquidation business, the global gem market, current market fever, and global gem shows.
Learn More

Stephan Reif, Sales Executive, the Green Dragon Mine
Mr. Reif has intimate knowledge of the Green Dragon demantoid garnet mine in Namibia. In these extensive interviews, Mr. Reif provides a wealth of information regarding the mine’s geology and production, along with government mining regulations and water requirements. Mr. Reif also discusses, in detail, the cutting of demantoid garnet, quality evaluation, and the market.
Learn More

Joshua Saltzman, Nomad’s Lapidary Company
Mr. Saltzman is involved with buying rough colored gemstones from around the world, and cutting and selling finished colored gemstones globally. His company focuses on precision cutting of a wide variety of colored stones at the higher end of the market. In his interviews, Mr. Saltzman discusses the company’s cutting philosophy, market update, spinel sources and production, Afghan tourmaline, the rubellite tourmaline market, and working with untreated stones.
Learn More

Menahem Sevdermish, CEO and President GemeWizard
Mr. Sevdermish is one of the leading Israeli colored gemstone dealers, cutters, and experts. He has been buying, cutting, and selling colored gemstones for decades and has focused on unique stones with exciting colors. He is also the inventor of GemeWizard, a computer software program for grading colored gemstones, as well as a provider of pricing information and an internet trading platform. In his interviews Mr. Sevdermish discusses natural-color gemstones, Tanzanian gemstones, Tanzanian production, and unique tanzanite colors.
Learn More

Bill Vance, Vance Gems
Mr. Vance has been involved with buying, cutting, and selling colored gemstones for decades. He received his Graduate Gemology Diploma in 1983. In his interviews, Mr. Vance discusses the reason for the current price increases in gemstones, availability of gemstones in the market, gem cutting, building credibility in the trade, and advice to young gemologists.
Learn More @chapter:28


Publication Year: 2008 Title: Coated Tanzanite Abstract: Examination of 23 tanzanites coated by an apparently new technique revealed that the smaller stones (4–5 mm) could be identified as coated based on a combination of the unusually intense color and microscopic examination, which revealed surface iridescence as well as wear on facet junctions (small areas where the coating was abraded away). The two larger (3+ ct) stones did not show iridescence or wear, only small clues with high magnification, and therefore were much more difficult to identify. EDXRF and LA-ICP-MS analyses showed the presence of Co, Zn, Sn, and Pb in the coating. @chapter:5


Publication Year: 2016 Title: Etch Marks, Negative Crystals, and Etch Tubes in Spinel from Madagascar Abstract: Figure 1. The multitude of negative crystals and growth tubes in the 2.18 ct spinel pebble are exposed under fiber-optic light. Photo by Victoria Raynaud; field of view 13.11 mm.

	During a recent study of blue sapphires from the Ilakaka region in Madagascar, the authors discovered a stone with an unusual appearance. Mixed in a parcel of blue sapphires purchased from Malagasy sapphire miner Nirina Rakotosaona was a 2.18 ct blue pebble (figure 1). RI (1.718) and SG (3.62) measurements identified it as a spinel. Mr. Rakotosaona had mined these stones near Antsoa village, along the Taheza River. Magnification revealed numerous triangular etch marks on the surface, which is not uncommon for spinel (Summer 2004 Lab Notes, p. 168). The frosted surface of the stone made it difficult to study its internal features, so we polished a window in order to observe them.

	What we found was a spectacular internal world, with several well-developed negative crystals associated with etch tubes (figure 2). These etch features were characterized by a narrowing of the tubes toward the center of the crystal, indicating that they were produced by dissolution of spinel after the crystal had formed. This preferential dissolution was located at weaker structural zones in the spinel, which might be related to the presence of the negative crystals.

Figure 2. Negative crystals with stubby etching and very long etch tubes within the spinel. The triangular etch marks are visible in the background. The image was taken using a combination of brightfield and fiber-optic lighting. Photomicrograph by Victoria Raynaud; field of view 2.67 mm.

	While all the negative crystals were aligned and had the overall classic octahedral form for spinel, they also showed modifications such as twinning and short stubby etching (figure 3). The etch tubes radiated outward from these negative inclusions or passed through them. Etch tubes are well known in sapphires from Madagascar, but this stone shows they can also be found in blue spinels from the island. It was this etching that made for one of the most interesting inclusion scenes the authors have encountered.

Figure 3. Octagonal negative crystals associated with slender etch tubes, seen under a fiber-optic light. Photomicrograph by Victoria Raynaud; field of view 1.44 mm. @chapter:19


Publication Year: - Title: GIA Hosts Alumni Events, Displays at Tucson 2017 Gem Shows Abstract: Alumni from around the world joined the 2017 “Party at the GIA Gem Mine: Cosmic Blast.” Most, including Peter Gruhl and Vicki Martinez, stopped at the photo booth before entering the party. Photo by GIA

	An out-of-this world photo experience, starship-like entryway and starry lights set the stage for the 2017 “Party at the GIA Gem Mine: Cosmic Blast,” but the pure joy and comaraderie as alumni greeted one another was the highlight of the annual dinner-dance and auctions. More than 350 guests from 15 countries (the U.S., Brazil, Canada, Columbia, China, Japan, Germany, Myanmar, Malta, Italy, South Africa, England, Thailand, India and more) attended the most fun party in Tucson.

	The event is an opportunity to connect with former classmates, meet new industry friends and perhaps establish a new business relationship.

	This year, it was also an opportunity to celebrate the 35th anniversary of the GIA Alumni Association that Richard T. Liddicoat and Robert Earnest established in 1982. Liddicoat and Earnest recognized the benefit of organizing GIA graduates around the world to encourage and promote the shared interests, education, news and business networks that support integrity and knowledge in the gem and jewelry industry. Today, the organization is more than 116,000 members strong with 70 chapters around the world.

Shauna and Starla Turner show off − Vanna White-style − items during the live auction so the audience can see them up close. Shauna, left, is holding a signed copy of the new GIA "Micro-Features of Emerald" wall chart from the Winter 2106 issue of G&G. Signed by GIA authors: Nathan Renfro, John Koivula, Jonathan Muya, Shane McClure, Kevin Schumacher and Dr. James Shigley. Starla is carrying a GIA PresentationScope. Photo by GIA

	Beyond catching up with old friends, this alumni event is an opportunity to support the Alumni Endowment Fund. This year’s event raised more than $25,000 from event tickets and the auctions. Seventy items (including loose gemstones and pearls, designer jewelry, mineral specimens, equipment, books and more) were available to bid on. Joseph DuMouchelle and Lindy Adducci, of DuMouchelle Auctions, volunteered their professional services – for the 16th year – to run the exciting live auction.

	“A special thank you to all our auction contributors, supporters, event volunteers and attendees,” said Kate Donovan, GIA manager of global alumni relations. “We look forward to seeing you all next year − and we’re already accepting auction donations!”

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	Alumni Leadership Breakfast

	GIA Alumni Association chapter leaders and senior GIA executives also gathered in Tucson for a leadership forum to discuss chapter ideas, challenges, policy and plans. This annual event makes it possible for attendees to share and coordinate ideas and enhance relationships between chapters for the overall benefit of the alumni association.

	More than 30 alumni leaders from 22 chapters (the U.S., Canada and Germany) attended along with GIA executives Susan Jacques, president and CEO; Bev Hori, senior vice president of education and chief learning officer; Susan Schindelar, vice president of global marketing; Stephen Morisseau, director of corporate communications; and Danae Brooker, director of branding.

	Kate Donovan kicked off the discussion by sharing the variety of GIA materials and programs available to alumni chapter leaders to share at meetings, including the GemKids website, Retailer Support Program, Continuing Education Recognition Program and scholarship information.

	Starla Turner, a longtime alumni leadership council member and past-president of CA – Golden Gate chapter, kicked off a chapter-to-chapter peer discussion that included tips on the best ways to run chapter events, find meeting topic ideas and engage more alumni with local chapters.

Show attendees were able to learn more about synthetic diamonds in an exhibit that displayed them side-by-side with natural diamonds. Photo by Amanda Luke/GIA

	GIA Displays

	The GIA museum and the Richard T. Liddicoat Library and Information Center had exhibits during the gem shows.

Synthetic Diamonds at AGTA

	Synthetic diamonds grown by the HPHT and CVD methods have become more prevalent in the jewelry trade. The Institute – which can identify all known types of synthetic diamonds – displayed a variety of samples including large colorless and colored rough HPHT, large colorless and colored faceted HPHT, rough CVD, faceted CVD, rough HPHT melee, and faceted HPHT melee diamonds side-by-side with natural diamonds at its booth on the Galleria level.

The Fersman Catalog at TGMS

	The GIA library’s copy of Russia’s Treasure of Diamonds and Precious Stones by A.E. Fersman is one of the few surviving examples of a Bolshevik-era catalog of royal jewels seized during the Russian Revolution. The library featured a special display at TGMS dedicated to the catalog, including an historical figure of Catherine the Great by George Stuart (on loan from the Ventura County Museum of Art) and replicas of notable diamonds, the Orlov and the Shah.

Turquoise measuring 39.5 x 24 x 10 cm is part of the GIA museum exhibit “Highlights of the Hauser Collection.” Photo by Orasa Weldon/© GIA

Highlights of the Hauser Collection at TGMS

	GIA’s museum recently acquired a collection of ornamental minerals of exceptional size and quality, made possible through a generous donation by the family of Joel and Barbara Hauser. Many of the pieces are from localities with restricted access or that are no longer producing. Attendees of TGMS had the opportunity to view 13 of the finest pieces from the Hauser collection as part of a special exhibit. @chapter:33


Publication Year: - Title: How Do I Know if the Fancy Melee in My Jewelry is Natural Diamond? Abstract: Melee diamonds are like the bridesmaids to the bride, the chorus line to a Broadway show or a side dish to a holiday meal. They are there to draw attention to the star of the show, adding intrigue and interest — but never detracting from the main event.

Melee diamonds, which weigh less than 0.2 carats, are inexpensive compared to larger stones, so they can be generously used as dazzling accents in jewelry and watches. Their brightness and scintillation enhance the center stone in a halo-style ring or create intricate patterns in a pave-set design. Often cut as round shapes, they are also available in fancy shapes, such as emerald, princess, radiant and marquise.

The challenge for the jewelry trade: it is quicker and cheaper to grow small diamond crystals, so melee-size laboratory-grown and simulated diamonds are abundant in the market. Given their small size and the large number of loose stones in a parcel, laboratory-grown and treated or simulant melee diamonds can be mixed in with natural diamonds — and missed.

GIA addressed this challenge in 2016 with a melee analysis service for round diamonds, the most common shape of melee, an automated system that analyzes and sorts melee-sized diamonds quickly and accurately. The goal of the automated process is to minimize the percentage of natural diamonds that will be referred for further testing.

“The best instrument will pass 100 percent of natural diamonds, with 100 percent laboratory-grown and simulants referred for further testing,” said Tom Moses, executive vice president and chief laboratory and research officer. “No single instrument in the world, however, can pass 100 percent of natural diamonds, because there is always a small percentage of natural diamonds that show similar features to man-made or treated stones.”

Fancy melee diamond screening device. Photo: Mitchell Lyn
Millions and millions of small round diamonds have been analyzed since then, but there has also been a need to screen fancy-shaped melee, according to Moses.

“The watch industry, for example, uses many fancy shaped diamonds and wants to use high-quality natural melee diamonds. They often depend on the suppliers to guarantee that their fancy shape melee is natural and not man-made,” Moses said. To meet the needs of their customers, many diamond suppliers want to get their fancy shape melee screened by GIA.

GIA scientists working on the issue of fancy shape melee screening developed a set of operating principles and laser technology they believe address this complex task. The team of scientists, along with engineers from GIA’s instruments group, worked together to create a prototype. After testing, software and mechanical engineers helped to develop a fully automatic system for large-scale screening of fancy shape melee diamonds.

The process to develop the technology and build the new system took about three years, but the team is pleased with the results, Moses said. Compared with the previous instrument for diamond melee, this new one refers fewer natural diamonds for further testing.

“With this new instrument, we can analyze every shape of melee,” Moses said. “The new machine uses new principles and analysis techniques to detect laboratory-grown and simulant melee from natural diamonds — and can do it much more efficiently and accurately than ever before.”

Metrology Technician Nicole Phelan operates a fancy melee diamond screening device. Photo: Mitchell Lyn
The new GIA Analysis Service for fancy shapes was announced in August 2020 and is offered at most GIA labs. Click here for more details.
Benefits For Suppliers and Retailers
The ability to sort natural melee from man-made, treated or simulated stones, has the potential to offer new opportunities for suppliers.
“We will discuss this with our niche and elite customers. Only they would prefer something like this as it will be a value addition to their product,” said Premal Chokshi, general manager of sales for Rosy Blue in Mumbai. “Regular diamond manufacturers, traders and diamond jewelers will not pay for getting their [melee] stones certified; it’s only the niche customers we want to target.”

Melee screening also gives retailers the ability to assure their clients that all of the melee in any piece of jewelry or watch is 100 percent natural diamond.

“For the clients, they will be able to give consumers the confidence that the goods coming to them have already been screened and tested by the biggest lab in the world — GIA,” said Rajesh Lakhani, director of Kiran Gems in Mumbai. “The trust and faith relationship is 100 percent there and people are attracted to that — especially consumers.” @chapter:31


Publication Year: - Title: ‘Dreams of Diamonds’ Book, Exhibit Celebrate Spectacular Gems Abstract: The GIA museum’s “Dreams of Diamonds” exhibit featured more than 4,000 carats of diamonds, and marked the U.S. debut of Alastair Laidlaw and Christine Marsden’s like-named book – a 160-page, 33-lb. tome. Photo by Kevin Schumacher/GIA

The GIA museum’s glittering “Dreams of Diamonds” exhibit drew a record-breaking number of guests to the Institute’s Carlsbad campus for two weeks in May 2015, with more than 1,000 members of the public, trade and press attending the once-in-a-lifetime display.

The exhibit, which featured more than 4,000 carats of diamonds, celebrated the mystique of a gemstone that continues to fascinate gemologists and inspire designers and artists around the world. It also marked the U.S. debut of “Dreams of Diamonds,” a 160-page tome that, at 33 pounds and approximately three feet wide when open, is the largest book ever published on the subject.

“The creators of ‘Dreams of Diamonds’ were able to capture extraordinary diamond pieces in enchanting, ethereal settings,” says GIA Museum Curator Terri Ottaway, adding that the book and exhibit were “an ode to the wondrous world of diamonds.”

GIA Senior Vice President and Chief Marketing Officer Kathryn Kimmel, left, with “Dreams of Diamonds” photographers Christine Marsden and Alastair Laidlaw, and GIA President and CEO Susan Jacques at the exhibit’s opening event .
The team behind the book, British photographers Alastair Laidlaw and Christine Marsden, showcase images of loose diamonds and diamond jewelry in fantastic, dreamy settings. The diamonds – many of which were graded by the GIA laboratory – and jewelry in the book represent the work of a dozen of the most venerated designers and diamond houses in the world.

Ottaway, along with McKenzie Santimer, manager of museum exhibits, showcased the oversized book in the Carlsbad campus rotunda, filling the surrounding display cases with 25 spectacular pieces of diamond jewelry. Seven of the book’s international contributors, including Adler, Chatila, Chow Tai Fook, Diacore, Diarough, Mouawad and MUNNU The Gem Palace, loaned their jewelry pieces for the exhibit.

The displays ranged from simple to intricate, including an exceptional 50-carat D flawless diamond on a rotating base and a stunning sautoir made from 1,400 carats of diamond crystals and polished gems.

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“It was the highest-value exhibition we’ve ever had, and it was overwhelming in popularity,” says Santimer, who said that visitors from the public and gem and jewelry trade came from all over Southern California. The exhibit, which opened with an invitation-only gala on April 29, even generated buzz on campus, where staff and students are accustomed to walking past beautiful displays of gems and jewelry every day.

“The students were floored,” Santimer said. “It’s pretty surreal to experience such a unique exhibit dedicated to diamonds while you’re studying at GIA, the creators of the 4Cs. It was a wonderful mix of diamonds, from 300-year-old diamond jewelry from the Mughal period to innovative, present-day cuts and tiaras. There were gold boots encrusted with more than 38,000 diamonds and fabulous colored diamonds, including a 54-carat Fancy Intense yellow diamond.”

GIA’s Visual Resources Digitization Assistant Emily Lane displaying “Dreams of Diamonds,” which is approximately three feet wide when open. Dona Dirlam, director of the library, said the book has already become a tour and student favorite because the oversized photos are making it possible “to see a level of detail and craftsmanship that is rare.”
Though the exhibition had a short run, GIA visitors will still be able to enjoy the heart of the exhibit in the Richard T. Liddicoat Gemological Library and Information Center. Laidlaw and Marsden donated two copies of the book, valued at $10,000 each, to the library’s collection. One copy is housed in the library’s Cartier Rare Book Repository and Archive; the other is available by appointment for public reference and viewing.

“We are so grateful to Alastair and Christine, who took six years to create this remarkable work of art,” says Library Director Dona Dirlam. “The book has already become a favorite highlight of the tour for our visitors, and the oversized photos are making it possible for GIA students to see a level of detail and craftsmanship that is rare. ‘Dreams of Diamonds’ is truly a special, valued addition to our collection.” @chapter:26


Publication Year: 2015 Title: Books: Maker & Muse: Women and Early Twentieth Century Art Jewelry Abstract: By Elyse Zorn Karlin, Ed., hardcover, 256 pp., publ. by Monacelli Press, New York, 2015, US$50.00.

Maker & Muse: Women and Early Twentieth Century Art Jewelry is a collaborative effort undertaken to accompany the current exhibit of the same name at the Richard H. Driehaus Museum in Chicago. Its 256 pages celebrate the role of women as creator of and inspiration for important jewelry from the turn of the 19th century. It showcases the history of women as jewelry designers, as muses portrayed on the jeweler’s canvas, and as wearers of the art during the Arts and Crafts and Art Nouveau movements.

	This beautifully illustrated book contains seven well-organized chapters full of insight on the period, covering the British, German, Austrian, and American Arts and Crafts movements from 1890 to 1910 and the French and American Art Nouveau movements from 1900 to 1915. Museum founder Richard H. Driehaus, who owns the majority of the pieces on display, wrote the preface. While collecting decorative arts 15 years ago, he was drawn to a piece of Arts and Crafts jewelry in London. His collection blossomed from there to include Art Nouveau jewelry.

	The first two chapters are by the book’s editor and the curator of the exhibit, Elyse Zorn Karlin. Her first chapter is an overview of the women and their jewelry in the early 20th century. Karlin follows with the British Arts and Crafts Movement, which advocated economic and social reform, which is essentially anti-industrial. As a result, there was a greater emphasis on the finished piece art rather than materials.

	The next four chapters are essays by the expert curators who had a hand in the other four exhibition rooms at the Driehaus. Each chapter is embellished with remarkable photos of pertinent jewelry and their makers and muse. “Metamorphosis: The Female Figure in Art Nouveau” is written by Yvonne J. Markowitz, curator emerita of the Museum of Fine Art in Boston, and Emily Banis Stoehrer, curator of jewelry at the same museum. They explain that Art Nouveau jewelry, designed by men (most notably Rene Lalique) and worn by women, is the French high-end answer to the Arts and Crafts movement. The jewels are about natural forms and structures, flowers, plants, and curved lines.  Jeannine Falino, an independent curator for the Museum of Art and Design in New York, writes the next chapter on the American art of Louis Comfort Tiffany, whose design staff included Julia Munson and Meta Overbeck. These women held the jewelry to the highest standards of artistry and quality. Tiffany branded his products, and the executors became mostly anonymous.

	Janis Staggs, author and curator of Neue Galerie in New York, documents the Arts and Crafts movement in Germany and Austria, known as Jugendstil or “youth style,” which brought about a shift in women’s social status as workers, patrons, suffragettes, athletes, artists, and muses.   Well-known designers Josef Hoffman and Karl Rothmuller, along with artist Gustav Klimt, are contributors to this period. Sharon S. Darling, author of Chicago Metalsmiths: An Illustrated History, writes about the Chicago Arts and Crafts movement, where a large number of women worked as professional and amateur jewelers. Of particular note is the hand-wrought Kalo silver workshop, which was founded by six women graduates of the Art Institute of Chicago in 1900.

	The photography, principally by John A. Faier, the editing, and the quality of the paper and printing are superb. This book will find its way into the libraries of scholars, collectors, and professionals interested in the Arts and Crafts and Art Nouveau movements, which still influence jewelry artists more than a century later. @chapter:16


Publication Year: - Title: Plan a Path to Success Abstract: Kara Erickson, sales manager for Tiffany & Co. in Pasadena, California, at GIA's 2009 Jewelry Career Fair in Carlsbad. Photo by Kevin Schumacher/GIA

                      “Success means something different for everyone,” said Kara Erickson, a 1993 GIA graduate and sales manager for Tiffany & Co. in Pasadena, California, who credits most of her success to her education and many industry mentors. “Recently I’ve realized that success is not status or a title, but a series of choices, hard work and achievements. You can sit around and desire success all day or you can actually do something about it.”

She shared five key concepts she used to build her career with attendees of the 2009 Career Fair in Carlsbad:

1. Create your vision. “Have a vision of your career and what you want to do and what you want to be. You’ll get lost without a map.”

2. Stay focused. You may find yourself on a winding career path, but take advantage of those curves. This path “may lead you to various forks in the road, but it is up to you to make them into opportunities.”

3. Take action. “If you say you are going to do something, do it, follow through. Actions speak louder than words.”

4. Be prepared to make sacrifices. Find ways to overcome obstacles. “Prove to yourself and others that you are ready, willing and able to grow in your career.”

5. Get support. The jewelry industry is a very close-knit community. “The people who make up the industry were once in your shoes.”

Erickson also offered encouragement to the attendees. “Employers are looking for people like you. Not just because you are educated in gems and jewelry, but because you can reinvent the jewelry industry. Everything is at your fingertips. You have already made the choice to be successful and you are in charge of your career.” @chapter:36


Publication Year: 1984 Title: Gem Pegmatites of Minas Gerais, Brazil: Exploration, Occurrence, and Aquamarine Deposits Abstract: The northeastern portion of the state of Minas Gerais, Brazil, contains the world's greatest concentration of complex granitic pegmatites, which are especially noted for the production of gem beryl, chrysoberyl, topaz, tourmaline, and kunzite. Pegmatite gemstones were first found in this region over 400 years ago; in the last 100 years, Brazil has supplied most of the world market for these five gemstones. As the first of a series of articles on this region and these gem materials, this article reviews the early exploration for gemstones, their occurrence, and the mining methods and miners responsible for the development of the deposits. Focus is then given to some of the major deposits of aquamarine and other beryls, especially in the Teofilo Otoni-Marambaia and Jequitinhonha River valley districts. @chapter:3


Publication Year: 2019 Title: Trapiche-Like Ruby from the Batakundi Mine, Kashmir Abstract: Each leg of the trapiche-like structure in this ruby from the Batakundi mine in Kashmir is aligned perpendicular to hexagonal growth. The center of the star consists of a hexagonal group of colorless feldspar crystals and black graphite platelets. Black rutile crystals with associated comet tails are seen near the core of the trapiche-like pattern. Photomicrograph by Patcharee Wongrawang; field of view 4.80 mm.

Recently, the author examined a 5.26 ct faceted transparent oval ruby that showed a well-formed fixed six-rayed pattern under the table of the stone. Chemical analysis and gemological observation of internal features determined the origin of this stone to be the Batakundi mining area of Kashmir.
The six rays were oriented perpendicular to the sides of the hexagonal growth structure (see above). Each arm consisted of numerous minute particles mixed with needle-like inclusions and small thin films. The center of the star contained a group of colorless and black mineral inclusions that were identified by Raman spectroscopy as feldspar and graphite. Near the core, two black crystals with high luster were identified by Raman spectroscopy as rutile. They were also associated with a string of fine particles spreading out to form a comet tail pattern.
The pattern of this ruby from the Batakundi mine resembles that of a trapiche-type sapphire from Tasmania (Winter 2016 GNI, pp. 430–431). Trapiche-like minerals are quite different from true trapiche rubies, which have six arms that run from a core to the six corners of the hexagonal growth structure and show clear boundaries of six crystallographic sectors. The most renowned of the true trapiche ruby can be found in certain areas such as Mong Hsu, Myanmar (G. Giuliani and I. Pignatelli, “‘Trapiche’ vs ‘trapiche-like’ textures in minerals,” InColor, Vol. 31, 2016, pp. 45–46).
Although trapiche-like corundum specimens are not unheard of, it is unusual to find them well developed in high-quality ruby. This trapiche-like ruby from the Batakundi area shows a beautiful inclusion scene of a fixed six-rayed star standing out against the pleasing bodycolor and transparency. @chapter:10


Publication Year: 2014 Title: Red Beryl – Tucson 2014 Abstract: Figure 1. This matched suite contains 27.35 carats of faceted oval red beryls. Photo by Eric Welch; courtesy of Equatorian Imports.

              At the AGTA show, Ray Zajicek (Equatorian Imports Inc., Dallas) displayed matched red beryls—originally mined from Utah’s Wah Wah Mountains—as suites of jewelry and in loose stone form. According to Zajicek, these gems represent newly marketed inventory cut by Colombian cutters in Gibraltar between 1998 and 2000. Each suite contained 25–30 carats of matched red beryls as emerald, marquise, or oval cuts (figure 1).

Zajicek, who began working with red beryl in the 1980s, said the average faceted gem is approximately 0.08 ct. A 0.50 ct sample would be large, and anything above a carat would be exceptionally rare. This made the matched suites at his booth unique and potentially irreplaceable. Like emerald, red beryl has a range of hues and tones, as well as a typically uneven color distribution that makes it a challenge to match.

Zajicek said there is more red beryl in the ground, but the difficulty of mining makes future production cost-prohibitive. Previous operations had to move more than a ton of hard rock to recover a carat of rough. A carat-sized rough stone is not necessarily cuttable; yields are low, averaging between 8% and 15%.

	Figure 2. Here, red beryls are mounted with benitoite from California in a pendant (left), and with 28.59 carats of unheated Yogo sapphire from Montana in a spectacular necklace (right). Photos by Eric Welch (left) and Robert Weldon (right); courtesy of Equatorian Imports.
Zajicek described red beryl as a beautiful, uniquely American product that is still relatively unknown. Intriguing combinations included a pendant comprised of red beryl mounted with benitoite (figure 2, left), and a red, white, and blue necklace featuring red beryl, Montana blue sapphires, and colorless diamond (figure 2, right).

If there were more viable red beryl mining locations in Utah, the increased production would boost demand and allow greater promotion. As it stands, few would spend money to promote a gem they probably would not be able to obtain in any quantity. @chapter:18


Publication Year: 1989 Title: Fall 1989 G&G Book Reviews Abstract: “Jewelry on Display, 3rd Edition”
By MariAnn Coutchie, 107 pp., illus., publ. by ST Publications, Cincinnati, OH, 1989. US$23.95

“World Map of Gemstone Deposits”
By Dr. Edward Gübelin, publ. by the Swiss Gemmological Society, Lucerne, Switzerland, 1988. US$24.00 (paper), US$59.95 (laminated)

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:18


Publication Year: 2002 Title: Update on the Identification of Treated “Golden” South Sea Cultured Pearls Abstract: Most of the “golden” South Sea cultured pearls in a single strand were found to exhibit unusual brownish orange fluorescence to long-wave UV radiation and atypical absorption features at 405 nm and 558 nm. On the basis of these features and visual examination, 33 of the 35 cultured pearls were identified as color treated. This study demonstrates how atypical absorption features, particularly in the blue region of the spectrum, can be used to positively identify color treatment, even in the presence of the 330–385 nm UV absorption feature characteristic of natural-color “golden” pearls from the Pinctada maxima mollusk. @chapter:14


Publication Year: 2018 Title: Cat's-Eye Demantoid and Brown Andradite with Horsetail Inclusions Abstract: Figure 1. This 2.51 ct green demantoid with chatoyancy (left) contained well-aligned fibers of horsetail inclusions (right, field of view 1.10 mm). Photos by Shunsuke Nagai (left) and Taku Okada (right).
Two garnets were recently submitted to the Tokyo lab for identification. One was a green cabochon weighing 2.51 ct; the other was an orangy brown round brilliant weighing 2.47 ct. Both had a refractive index (RI) over the limits of the refractometer and a hydrostatic specific gravity (SG) of 3.84. To confirm the identification, we used Raman spectroscopy. Both stones matched the andradite garnet group from the reference database. The ideal chemical formula of andradite is Ca3Fe2Si3O12. The most important feature in both garnets was their horsetail inclusions. The presence of horsetail inclusions, which are thought to consist of chrysotile fibers branching out and radiating toward the surface from a small chromite nodule, has been regarded as diagnostic for natural demantoid.

The 2.51 ct stone was a rare cat’s-eye demantoid (figure 1). Demantoid garnet is by definition the green-colored andradite caused by chromium substitution. Chatoyancy is usually caused by closely spaced bands of long, thin parallel needles or fibers in the correct orientation, with a polished rounded surface such as a cabochon to reflect the light off the parallel inclusions. In this stone, the chatoyancy was due to the fibers of the horsetail inclusions. The radiating fibers were not parallel straight lines but parallel curves, so the “eye” was slightly curved.

Figure 2. This 2.47 ct orangy brown andradite (left) contained radiating horsetail inclusions regarded as exclusive to demantoid (right, field of view 1.60 mm). Photos by Shunsuke Nagai (left) and Taku Okada (right).
The 2.47 ct stone was an andradite garnet with classic horsetails (figure 2). The dominant bodycolor was brown. The gemological properties and chemistry were classified as andradite in the garnet solid solution, but it was poorer in calcium and richer in iron and silicon than the ideal andradite composition. The brownish cast was due to iron. On occasion we encounter stones with a strong yellow component that still have enough green to qualify as demantoid. However, this stone had no green in it and therefore was just andradite, not demantoid.

Consequently, the horsetail inclusions cannot be considered exclusively diagnostic for demantoid. They may also be found in non-green andradite. These two identifications—“cat’s-eye demantoid” and normal “andradite” in spite of horsetail inclusions—were issued for the first time in GIA’s colored stone report records. @chapter:13


Publication Year: 1997 Title: Gemological Properties of Near-Colorless Synthetic Diamonds Abstract: Examination of 51 colorless to near-colorless synthetic diamonds from all known sources of production confirms that they can be distinguished from similar-appearing natural diamonds on the basis of their gemological properties. Although some may contain opaque metallic inclusions, the most distinctive feature of near-colorless synthetic diamonds is their luminescence to ultraviolet radiation and to an electron beam (cathodoluminescence). In particular, almost all fluoresce yellow or yellow-green to short-wave UV and, when the ultraviolet lamp is turned off, they continue to phosphoresce for 60 seconds or more. These distinctive reactions to ultraviolet radiation are very useful in identification, because many diamonds can be checked at one time. @chapter:11


Publication Year: 2014 Title: Titanium-Coated Tanzanite Abstract: Figure 1. These five tanzanite samples (0.39–0.82 ct) proved to be color-coated with titanium. Photo by Don Mengason.

Five faceted violetish blue stones, ranging from 0.39 to 0.82 ct (figure 1), were recently submitted to the Carlsbad laboratory for identification service. Standard gemological testing revealed a refractive index of 1.689–1.700 for all five samples. When observed using polarized light, each displayed a medium pleochroism. Specific gravity, measured using the hydrostatic method, was 3.37. These properties were consistent with tanzanite.

Figure 2. This upper portion of a pavilion facet, examined in reflected light, shows a much higher luster than the lower, uncoated portion. Photo by Nathan Renfro; field of view 1.22 mm.

Figure 3. The coating on this tanzanite’s pavilion has been worn away along the facet junctions and in some small chipped areas, revealing the less-saturated violet color of the tanzanite underneath. Photo by Nathan Renfro; field of view 2.90 mm.
Microscopic examination showed that the material was relatively free of inclusions, but showed areas of abrasion along pavilion facet junctions. Observed using reflected light, the pavilion of each stone showed a significantly higher luster than the crown. Some individual facets even showed a variation in luster due to an unevenly distributed color coating (figure 2). When the samples were examined using diffuse transmitted light, the facet junctions and several chipped spots appeared much less saturated, which was also consistent with a color coating (figure 3).

Because tanzanite with a cobalt coating has previously been reported (S.F. McClure and A.H. Shen, “Coated tanzanite,” Summer 2008 G&G, pp. 142–147), all tanzanites submitted to the lab are routinely checked by energy-dispersive X-ray fluorescence (EDXRF) and microscopic examination. These five stones were also checked by EDXRF, but no cobalt was detected; however, all five showed a significant signal for titanium on their pavilions. No titanium was detected on the crowns. LA-ICP-MS was also used to confirm that the coated area contained significant titanium.

While color-enhancing coatings on tanzanite are occasionally seen at GIA’s laboratory, this is the first time we have examined tanzanite that has been color coated with titanium. @chapter:4


Publication Year: 2022 Title: Tucson 2022 Overview Abstract: Figure 1. Customers select goods at the AGTA GemFair. Photo by Tao Hsu.
Sellers and buyers alike were delighted to be back at Tucson for the show season after a two-year absence. As the world enters a new phase of the pandemic, the gem and jewelry industry is also preparing for the post-pandemic era. Attendees embraced precautions such as social distancing and face coverings (figure 1). Although social gatherings were much less crowded than usual, the atmosphere and business at the shows were as strong as before, if not better.
Due to travel restrictions, the international presence was down, but that did not affect vendor attendance at the main AGTA GemFair at the Tucson Convention Center, where the majority of exhibitors had strong U.S. representation. The Gem & Jewelry Exchange (GJX) show was slightly affected, with some booths left empty by foreign dealers who could not make it to Tucson this year. Vendor attendance in the satellite shows outside of the convention center area remained strong, as observed by the authors at the Pueblo Gem & Mineral Show, the Kino Gem & Mineral Show (figure 2), and the 22nd Street Mineral, Fossil, Gem & Jewelry Show.

Figure 2. A stone decor dealer’s booth at the Kino Gem & Mineral Show. Open to the public, the show saw steady foot traffic. Photo by Tao Hsu.
Many exhibitors felt that while foot traffic was lighter than usual, buyers were focused on purchasing targeted goods to restock inventory. Meanwhile, the pandemic’s influence on the supply side of the value chain was just starting to show. Therefore, this Tucson show season provided a very good opportunity to prepare for a potential shortage in the coming months (figure 3).

Figure 3. Left: The Pueblo Gem & Mineral Show was an ideal place to source rough gems of all kinds. Right: Cutting services were provided at multiple shows open to the public. Photos by Tao Hsu.
The variety of gems and jewelry traded at the shows remained consistent with previous years. The “big three”—ruby, sapphire, and emerald—still dominate the market (figure 4), with the intake at the GIA Show Service Lab reflecting this. Collector minerals and gems such as meteorite, gahnospinel, fluorite of various colors, opalized fossils, cerussite, and colemanite continued to attract a niche market clientele (figure 5). Also in high demand were fantasy cuts, rose cuts, briolettes, and mineral or rock slices. Jewelry designers on a mission to fulfill special orders sourced gems such as Montana sapphire, Oregon sunstone, Arizona turquoise, Washington nephrite jade, and other American gems.

Figure 4. An 8.23 ct star ruby cut by David Nassi. Photo by Robert Weldon; courtesy of 100% Natural Ltd.

Figure 5. A 45 ct green fluorite from New Mexico. Dealers carried fluorite of all colors and cutting styles at both the AGTA and GJX shows. Photo by Emily Lane; courtesy of Barker & Co.
Vendors have never been more creative in terms of their products and business savvy. To fulfill the ever-growing demand for one-of-a-kind creations, gem cutters, carvers, and jewelry manufacturers have put more thought and individuality into their pieces (figure 6). Products manufactured with a high level of sophistication such as inlaid jewelry or gems were prominent at the show (figure 7). Many vendors have shifted more business online over the past two years to combat limited foot traffic in stores. Newly formed companies, meanwhile, have often started completely online or done most of their business online.

Figure 6. Left: Rock and metal wall decor in combination with metal art at the Kino show. Right: A 22.93 ct carved citrine crafted in Jaipur, India; courtesy of Artisav Jaipur. Photos by Tao Hsu.

Figure 7. Gemstone-inlaid bangles from David R. Freeland Jr. Designs at the Pueblo Gem & Mineral Show. Photo by Lisa Kennedy.
GIA relished in the much-anticipated return to Tucson this year, enthusiastically gathering the latest from the shows to share in this report. Our coverage includes market updates, interesting and noteworthy finds, and uplifting accounts from dealers, cutters, designers, and more.
The following contributed to this report: Erin Hogarth, Erica Zaidman, Robert Weldon, Albert Salvato, Wim Vertriest, Lisa Neely, and Nathan Renfro.

View Gallery

Photo Highlights from the 2022 Tucson Shows @chapter:33


Publication Year: 2021 Title: Eric Braunwart (Columbia Gem House) Abstract: Figure 1. Popular sapphire colors, including bicolor stones from Montana. These heated stones from the Gem Mountain, Missouri River, and Dry Cottonwood Creek areas are 4.0 mm in diameter. Photo by Dillon Sprague; courtesy of Columbia Gem House

              Eric Braunwart, founder of this gemstone mining, cutting, and wholesale marketing company, reported that they have stayed busy during the pandemic after the initial shock to business with the hard shutdown last spring. Columbia Gem House had already started transitioning three years ago to doing more business electronically. When the pandemic hit, they were well positioned to experience a less dramatic shift in how they interact with clients than some more traditionally run gem dealers. Mr. Braunwart sees the pandemic as having universally pushed people involved in all stages of the gem trade to do more of their business online.

Overall, Mr. Braunwart is happy with the way business is going but thinks that much of what he is experiencing has more to do with the clientele he has attracted and his move toward a strong digital platform. Currently, his customer base is part of what he considers the “new industry,” composed almost exclusively of women under 35 years old with independent stores, galleries, or studios. These buyers have grown up with smartphones and had already been doing business online but were pushed even further online with COVID-19. Columbia Gem House’s fair trade and responsibly sourced position in the marketplace resonates with this “new industry,” where these factors are an important part of the business models and branding and their clients’ lifestyles. Additionally, these buyers tend to purchase more unusual items with respect to color, cut, shape, and presence of inclusions.

Mr. Braunwart noted that the biggest disruption to the supply chain with COVID-19 has been at the mines, where mining has slowed with less travel and demand—greatly restricting the supply to wholesalers. This has particularly been the case with small miners who have not had travelers coming out to purchase at the traditional venues. This has pushed some small miners to explore selling online to reach some of the market and realize some of the markup that traditional cutters and wholesalers see. Gem cutting has also slowed significantly, with less rough coming out of the mines and restricted flow of goods crossing borders, due both to the pandemic and political issues. On a very somber note, COVID-19 has personally hit many small businesses along the supply chain, with some longtime miners, cutters, and traders dying from the disease.

When asked what has been in high demand this past year, Mr. Braunwart stated that sapphire is still the king in terms of volume and dollars. A variety of North American stones are still doing well and sales continue to increase. The recent increase in the desire to buy American continues, and now these products are more recognized in the marketplace. Demand for teal and other nontraditional sapphire hues remains very strong (figure 1). About half of the customers pursuing these nontraditional colors popularized by the sapphire mines in Montana want American sapphire, but the other half are concerned only about obtaining the desired colors and are buying material coming from Africa and Asia.

Figure 2. A variety of popular small-stone shapes such as kites, hexagons, trillions, and briolettes. All are heated Missouri River sapphires. The kites are either 6.0 × 4.0 mm or 5.0 × 3.0 mm, the hexagons are 3.5 mm in diameter, the trillions are 4.0 mm wide, and the briolettes are 4.0 × 3.0 mm and side-drilled. Photo by Dillon Sprague; courtesy of Columbia Gem House.
 A notable trend mentioned was the continued and increasing popularity of melee and smaller stones (baguettes, briolettes, trillions, kites, and hexagons; see figure 2). Both saturated and pastel hues of these smaller stones are in strong demand (figure 3).They are being used not only as accent stones but also as the main stones in many jewelry pieces. This reflects a growing fashion direction where more affordable pieces can be made using both precious gemstones and precious metals. Mr. Braunwart mentioned a shortage in 1.0–1.3 mm melee, as this size is very difficult to cut and mines traditionally do not collect the small rough that would produce these sizes. This means that melee in these sizes are coming from larger rough and scraps.

Figure 3. Melee and small sizes of fire opal and neon green beryl. The fire opals are from Mexico and range from 0.10 to 0.20 ct. The neon green beryl material is from Nigeria—the rounds are 3.0 mm in diameter and the baguettes are 4.0 × 2.0 mm. Photo by Dillon Sprague; courtesy of Columbia Gem House. @chapter:33


Publication Year: 2023 Title: Rainy Lakeside City in Peridot Abstract: Blade-like magnetite inclusions developed from a healed fracture in a 2.08 ct Burmese peridot resemble a rainy lakeside city. Photomicrograph by Makoto Miura; field of view 1.06 mm.
Inclusions in gemstones provide useful information regarding their geological origin. A 2.08 ct Burmese peridot containing unique black blade-like inclusions developed from healed fractures (fingerprints), as shown in the figure above. Raman spectroscopy identified these blade-like inclusions as magnetite. Tiny raindrop-like magnetite lamellae were also observed throughout the stone. Such inclusions in Burmese peridot sometimes create four-rayed asterism. According to previous studies, the presence of magnetite lamellae suggests the oxidation or dehydration of olivine by geological processes. This image resembles a rainy lakeside city landscape. @chapter:3


Publication Year: - Title: GIA's Gübelin Gem Project: Zircon Abstract: Zircon
Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA, courtesy Dr. E. J. Gübelin Collection
GIA Collection 33723

Although colorless when chemically pure, zircon is typically yellow-brown to brown. It also comes in red, blue, purple, and green. Because of its high brilliance and dispersion, colorless zircon has sometimes been used as a substitute for diamond in jewelry.

33703

			5.76 ct Zircon
			Cambodia (PDF)

33723

			6.61 ct Zircon
			Cambodia (PDF)

33698

			11.58 ct Zircon
			Laos (PDF)

35605

			2.01 ct Zircon
			Madagascar (PDF)

35602

			7.36 ct Zircon
			Madagascar (PDF)

35601

			7.66 ct Zircon
			Madagascar (PDF)

34640

			10.40 ct Zircon
			Myanmar (PDF)

34669

			14.37 ct Zircon
			Myanmar (PDF)

34671

			16.32 ct Zircon
			Myanmar (PDF)

33734

			6.21 ct Zircon
			Sri Lanka (PDF)

33717

			7.11 ct Zircon
			Sri Lanka (PDF)

33705

			10.72 ct Zircon
			Sri Lanka (PDF)

33729

			11.77 ct Zircon
			Sri Lanka (PDF)

34920

			12.66 ct Zircon
			Sri Lanka (PDF)

34958

			16.65 ct Zircon
			Sri Lanka (PDF)

33699

			24.24 ct Zircon
			Sri Lanka (PDF)

33756

			8.74 ct Zircon
			Tanzania (PDF)

34341

			12.81 ct Zircon
			Tanzania (PDF)

35070

			21.05 ct Zircon
			Tanzania (PDF)

35091

			4.06 ct Zircon
			Thailand (PDF)

33719

			11.48 ct Zircon
			Thailand (PDF)

35092

			15.13 ct Zircon
			Thailand (PDF)

33746

			19.31 ct Zircon
			Thailand (PDF)

33694

			22.15 ct Zircon
			Thailand (PDF)

33695

			28.15 ct Zircon
			Thailand (PDF) @chapter:1