Publication Year: 2017 Title: GSA 2017 Annual Meeting Abstract: Figure 1. Presenters, session advocates, and senior executives from GIA at GSA’s annual meeting in Seattle. Photo by Tao Hsu.

The Geological Society of America (GSA) held its annual meeting October 22–25 in Seattle. For the fifth year, GIA hosted technical sessions on gemological research in the 21st century. More than 30 researchers, students, and gem experts from multiple institutions shared their most recent research results (figure 1).

Invited speaker Evan Smith (GIA, New York) presented the diamond inclusion suite study he carried out over the past two years. Following his paper published in Science on type IIa Cullinan-like, large, inclusion-poor, pure, irregular, resorbed (CLIPPIR) diamonds, Dr. Smith investigated in situ mineral phases in more than 20 extremely rare type IIb diamonds selected from GIA’s day-to-day grading operations. The identified inclusions indicated that type IIb diamonds can originate from the lower mantle, at depths beyond 660 km. This surprising result refuted the well-accepted view that almost all superdeep diamonds are small and not of gem quality. Nancy McMillan (New Mexico State University) talked about the diamond provenance study she performed with Catherine McManus (Materialytics, Killeen, Texas). To ease consumer concerns about conflict diamonds, they conducted multivariate analysis of laser-induced breakdown spectroscopy (LIBS) on diamonds from various origins as well as synthetic diamonds. The information provided by LIBS on trace element composition and the electronic structure of atoms in diamonds aided in provenance determination. Through infrared (IR) mapping, Sally Eaton-Magaña (GIA, Carlsbad) and her colleague Troy Ardon documented the spatial changes of the optical defect center B0 (uncompensated boron) in two type IIb diamond samples: One specimen was irradiated along an edge and then annealed, while the other was only annealed. The irradiated diamond showed an obvious gradient in B0 across the specimen itself and larger gradient changes during annealing compared to the other sample. These were caused by changes in compensating defects, which were then plotted by photoluminescence (PL) mapping.

The following three presenters from the University of Alberta shared their intriguing diamond formation research. Mandy Krebs offered trace element data of fluids trapped in gem-quality diamonds and compared them to those in fibrous diamonds that have been extensively studied. The results showed clear similarities in trace element patterns in both categories, which indicates that fibrous diamonds and gem diamonds may share a common origin. Rebecca Stone reported on diamond growth in saline fluid. She and her colleagues carefully documented diamond growth features under different salinities using a mixed KCl-NaCl brine system within the diamond stability field. Their series of experiments showed that Na-rich brine is a better medium for diamond growth than K-rich or Na+K mixed brines. Robert Luth discussed the partial melting mechanism facilitating diamond formation. He noted that the amount of diamond formed during this process depends on the lithology being melted and the composition of the fluid. The origin of the C-bearing fluid was also explored.

Following the diamond research presentations, invited speaker Darrell Henry (Louisiana State University) started the colored stone session with a talk on gem tourmaline. He pointed out that tourmaline is a very sensitive mineral that can incorporate and retain chemical and textural fingerprints from its environment. Paraíba, Paraíba-like, liddicoatite, and “chrome” tourmaline were used to illustrate this mineral’s incredible scientific value. Aaron Palke (GIA, Carlsbad) discussed his recent findings on demantoid garnet’s coloration mechanism. The existing theory attributes the brown coloration of this gem to intervalence charge transfer between Fe2+ and Ti4+ or Fe3+. Dr. Palke challenged this interpretation based on recent spectroscopic results showing insufficient Fe2+ in demantoid to justify this mechanism. Philippe Belley (University of British Columbia) addressed the challenges of modeling spinel deposits. His potential solutions are based on detailed petrographic and geochemical studies on 14 samples from exceptionally well-exposed in situ spinel occurrences on Baffin Island in Nunavut, Canada. Donald Lake (University of British Columbia) compared two beryl occurrences in northern Canada with Colombian emerald deposits. He pointed out that in terms of formation environment, these potential emerald deposits are the first “Colombian-type” sources outside Colombia. Rachelle Turnier (University of Wisconsin–Madison) presented her study on oxygen isotope fractionation factors in corundum. Oxygen isotope ratios are important to understanding corundum genesis and origin determination. This study empirically calibrated the calcite-corundum oxygen isotope fractionation factor from the metamorphosed karst-bauxite deposits at Naxos, Greece. GIA’s Jennifer Stone-Sundberg closed this portion of the session with a presentation on matrix-matched corundum standards development. She explained the importance of these newly developed standards in accurately determining trace element concentration and elaborated on the advantages of these standards over other commonly used products.

Figure 2. The GSA annual meeting’s gemological research poster session featured 18 presenters from all over the world. Photo by Cathy Jonathan.
This year’s poster session attracted 18 presenters, triple the number from last year (figure 2). Daniel Howell (University of Padua) presented new applications of DiaMap software in automated and semi-automated mapping of single substitutional defects (N and B) and micro-inclusion-bearing diamonds. Paul Johnson (GIA, New York) reported the first observation of nickel as the cause of the green color of an HPHT synthetic diamond. Nickel is commonly used in the metal flux that produces HPHT synthetic diamond, but it rarely contributes to diamond coloration. Tyler Sundell (Missouri State University) evaluated the viability of in situ 13C measurement in diamonds using time-of-flight secondary ion mass spectrometry (ToF-SIMS). Tingting Gu (GIA, New York) shared her study on micro- and nano-inclusions containing both N and Fe in type IaB diamonds. Kyaw Soe Moe (GIA, New York) presented the identification features of irradiated and annealed pink diamonds using IR spectroscopy and DiamondView imaging. Elizabeth Levy (Louisiana State University) explained how to directly measure Fe2+ and Fe3+ concentration in tourmaline crystals using synchrotron-based X-ray absorption near-edge spectroscopy (XANES). Cole Mount (New Mexico State University) found that using multivariate analysis of LIBS spectra of tourmaline can remove the negative influence of chemical zoning on host lithology determination. Ulrika D’Haenens-Johansson (GIA, New York) gave her insights on the 812 ct Constellation and two other large rough diamonds. FTIR and morphology observations indicate that the three could possibly be pieces from the same rough. Christopher M. Breeding (GIA, Carlsbad) described the first ever co-occurrence of magnesite, olivine, graphite, and silicon-vacancy defects in natural diamonds and explored the unusual conditions under which these diamonds formed. Karen Smit (GIA, New York) discussed the formation of peridotitic diamonds through isochemical cooling and eclogitic diamonds through redox buffering. George Harlow (American Museum of Natural History, New York) and Rachelle Turnier discovered that syenite-hosted sapphires from six different sources show a wide range of δ18O values, which indicates scavenging of sapphire from multiple reservoirs. Troy Ardon (GIA, Carlsbad) used IR mapping, cathodoluminescence (CL) imaging, and hyperspectral mapping to correlate various optical and infrared point defects in diamonds with strong brown coloration. Susanne Schmidt (University of Geneva) outlined U-Pb geochronology work done on zircon inclusions in Sri Lankan sapphires. This study was performed by her former graduate student Emilie Elmaleh. Ziyin Sun (GIA, Carlsbad) investigated the role of chromophore vanadium in coloration of pyrope-spessartine garnet, using samples without a color-change phenomenon. Eric Brinza (University of Wisconsin–Eau Claire) described an IR spectroscopic study on hydrothermal quartz crystal. Different hydroxyl species concentrations vary both vertically and horizontally through the crystal. Kyle Tollefson, also of the University of Wisconsin–Eau Claire, presented IR and visible spectroscopic study on coloration of watermelon tourmaline. The results showed that the chromophore was incorporated during crystal growth and could reflect changes in the growth environment. Dona Dirlam and her coauthors from GIA’s Richard T. Liddicoat Gemological Library and Information Center (Carlsbad, California) chronicled the legendary John Sinkankas, whose collection of books and other publications was acquired by GIA in 1988 to form the basis of its world-renowned gemological library. @chapter:29


Publication Year: 2014 Title: Books: Gem Identification Made Easy Abstract: By Antoinette Matlins and A.C. Bonnano, 378 pp., hardcover, illus., publ. by GemStone Press, Woodstock, VT, 2013. US$38.99.

              Originally published in 1989, Gem Identification Made Easy caters to a very broad audience of gem enthusiasts. It serves to inform and educate inexperienced gemologists, a good reference tool for seasoned veterans. Overall, this book contains a wealth of valuable information on simple, practical testing methods, written in a concise, easy-to-understand style.

Many tips and tricks for detecting treatments and how to differentiate between natural and synthetic materials are covered. Of particular interest in this latest edition is a section dedicated to identifying glass-filled rubies, which have plagued the market in the last few years. This chapter will clearly help even novice gem buyers and sellers avoid a costly mistake regarding this material.

However, this book lacks in the same measure of detail regarding diffusion treatment of corundum, which is at least as problematic in the gem trade as glass-filled rubies. The other area where it falls a bit short is image quality. Although color plates are included in this version, the images are small and in some cases very poor illustrations of their intended subjects. Most of the instructional images throughout the text are otherwise adequate.

Overall, this is a welcome addition to any gemological library, especially for the gemologist who must rely on portable instruments. If you’re in search of a “how-to” book full of vibrant images, this is not the one for you. If you are a gemologist at any level in need of a practical guide to gem testing or a reference guide, then you will be quite satisfied with this book. @chapter:23


Publication Year: 1998 Title: Summer 1998 G&G Book Reviews Abstract: “The Pearl Book: The Definitive Buying Guide—How to Select, Buy, Care for & Enjoy Pearls”
By Antoinette L. Matlins, 198 pp., illus., publ. by GemStone Press, Woodstock, VT, 1996. US$19.95

“Gemstones of Brazil: Geology and Occurrences”
By Patrick J. V. Delaney, 125 pp., illus., publ. by Revista Escola de Minas, Ouro Preto, Brazil, 1996. US$23.80

“Encyclopedia of Mineral Names”
By William H. Blackburn and William H. Dennen, illus., edited by Robert F. Martin, 360 pp., illus., publ. by the Mineralogical Association of Canada, Ottawa, Ontario, 1997. US$40.00

“Proceedings of the Sixth International Kimberlite Conference”
Edited by N. V. Sobolev and R. H. Mitchell, 619 pp. in two volumes, illus., publ. by Allerton Press, New York, 1997. US$95.00 (individuals), US$225.00 (institutions)

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:1


Publication Year: 1999 Title: Some Diagnostic Features of Russian Hydrothermal Synthetic Rubies and Sapphires Abstract: Most Russian hydrothermal synthetic rubies and pink, orange, green, blue, and violet sapphires—colored by chromium and/or nickel—reveal diagnostic zigzag or mosaic-like growth structures associated with color zoning. When the samples are properly oriented, these internal patterns are easily recognized using a standard gemological microscope in conjunction with immersion or fiber-optic illumination. Pleochroism is also useful to separate chromium-free blue-to-green synthetic sapphires from their natural counterparts. Samples colored by a combination of chromium, nickel, and iron are also described. @chapter:12


Publication Year: 2017 Title: Tourmaline and Sapphire from Nigeria Abstract: Figure 1. High-quality rubellite rough is highly sought after in the Asian market. Photo by Eric Welch/GIA, courtesy of Zoe Michelou.

	Zoe Michelou, marketing manager for a Nigerian mining company, gave an update in Tucson on the production of gemstones, particularly tourmaline. She primarily handles sales and marketing of rubellite from Oyo State, where there are around 350 pits. There are usually 10 to 15 miners per pit. The miners descend 10 to 20 meters by ladder to the bottom of a pit, and then the pegmatites are blasted and tunneled before extraction. Some tunnels are linked when production overlaps, improving air circulation. Pits can be very close together, although some larger open-pit operations have excavators in the pits and carts to remove the ore. Rubellite is concentrated in pockets within the pegmatites. There are plans to increase mechanization and redesign tunnel orientation and air circulation, thus increasing blasting cycles and production, and new pockets are being discovered.

	Miners are provided with food and tools, as well as by profit sharing based on the value of the production. There are plans to include a salary, health care, and a bonus on production. Sometimes miners can recover one ton of rubellite from a large pocket. Large single crystals can easily reach 18 kg or more. The rubellite is kept in a safe and then transported to the city of Ibadan for grading every two to three weeks, depending on production. Currently there are only three to four quality categories. Most of the material is now shipped to Bangkok for final grading and sale. A new facility is planned to perform the final grading in Nigeria, with training of locals to create parcels for international clientele. Many of the rubellite crystals sent to Bangkok weigh 1 kg or more.

	There are also alluvial deposits where rubellite pebbles can be recovered without moving too much earth. In Kwara State there is a significant production of indicolite and green tourmaline, including some pink and bicolor. Most of the mining is still near the surface, with a few deeper pits. The first production of indicolite tourmaline sent to Bangkok had crystals of 2–34 grams ranging from commercial to very high quality.

	Currently, the Nigerian company is focused on selling rough rubellite (figure 1) through the Bangkok office and trade shows to the international market, especially in East Asia. The clients are mainly rough dealers and manufacturers from China, Hong Kong, and Thailand. This year, the company will start a training program for grading at the mining site in Nigeria. In the future, rough will be sorted and graded prior to shipment to Bangkok.

	The parent company that Michelou represents has acquired 1,000 square kilometers for sapphire exploration, prospecting, and mining licenses in the Mambilla Plateau area of Taraba State. Nigeria has produced large quantities of fine-quality basalt-related sapphires. Extraction should start by late spring, with sales expected by the end of 2017 or beginning of 2018. They will only sell rough sapphires in selected markets. The initial washing plant will be able to handle 50 tons of ore per hour. Good-quality material weighing 3 to 5 grams is already being recovered. Security will be tight, and dealers from the Cameroon side of the border currently buying from unlicensed miners have already been restricted from the commercial mining area. Transparent supply from the mine to rough markets is an important part of the marketing strategy. The company will soon implement a detailed grading system for rough sapphires.

	The company primarily sells rough but also sells some cut stones to manufacturing jewelers worldwide. Michelou sees an increase in manufacturing jewelers buying rough, including tourmaline and sapphire, and having it cut instead of just purchasing finished stones. By doing so, they can guarantee traceability of the stones all the way to the customer.

Figure 2. A sampling of Nigerian indicolites after fashioning. Photo by Eric Welch/GIA, courtesy of Zoe Michelou. @chapter:18


Publication Year: - Title: Spring 2019 Auctions: Premium Prices for Historic Pieces Abstract: A circa 1935 Art Deco emerald and diamond creation, presumably made by Van Cleef & Arpels for American socialite and collector Hélène Beaumont. Courtesy of Sotheby’s

While the major auction houses are still making news with their rare gemstone offerings, the news about recent sales is focused more on history than record prices.
This year’s auctions have seen fewer lots, fewer very large diamonds and an easing of prices from the record levels seen a few years ago. But auction executives are quick to point out that the market for high quality gems and jewels is still robust – for pieces with a historic past.
“Our April New York auction represents the market, right now,” said Rahul Kadakia, Christie’s International Head of Jewellery. The April 16 sale did not have any top fancy colored diamonds over 5 carats or D flawless diamonds larger than 25 carats, as had been the case in recent years. In addition, a high percentage of lots came from estates, not dealers.
Several 15 ct-plus diamonds achieved per carat prices of more than $100,000 at the sale, which he acknowledged was down from the peaks of $150,000 to $180,000 in mid-decade.
“That was a spike in the market,” he explained. “But if you look at the long run, prices have risen substantially for such stones over the years.”
Sotheby’s May 14 Geneva sale saw one large D fl (36.57 ct) diamond sell for about $5 million ($136,000 per carat), but most of the action was for signed period jewels, such as The Beaumont Necklace, a circa 1935 Art Deco emerald and diamond creation, presumably made by Van Cleef & Arpels for collector Hélène Beaumont, that sold for $3.6 million, about 20% above its estimate.
Tailoring Auction Items to Market Demand
When the market weakens for major gemstones, the auction houses have to become more careful about curating their sales – smaller high-quality stones, more classic “signed” period jewels – and concentrate more on estate pieces. Prices are usually less aggressive than those from dealers, Kadakia said.
Dealers who sell at auction said they need high prices to recoup the auction seller premiums of 12% to 15% on sales. (Note that auctions also charge buyers a similar rate. Thus, if a gemstone has a hammer price of $100,000, the buyer will likely pay $115,000 and the seller will receive about $85,000.)
Sotheby’s and Christie’s have reduced the number of lots in their major jewelry sales by 25% to 35% in the past two years because, even though these houses almost never own pieces they sell, they go all out to avoid “buy-ins” – lots that fail to find bidders.
“The auctions’ publicity power works against them if this happens,” explained one major dealer of fancy colored diamonds. “If pieces don’t sell, everybody knows it right away and they start to worry about the market.”

The Jonker V, a 25.27 ct GIA-graded D VS1 diamond, was cut in 1934 from the famed 726 ct Jonker Diamond, found in South Africa. © Christie, Manson & Woods LTD (2019)
Kadakia said prices for major colored stones seem less affected by the slowdown; top sales lots are usually fancy colored diamonds. The top lot of Christie’s May 15 Geneva sale was a 22.86 ct cushion shaped Burmese ruby that sold for $7.2 million, more than twice its pre-sale estimate, and a natural pearl sautoir (a long necklace that can suspend a pendant or tassel) that brought $5.8 million from a dealer.
The May 15 sale did feature two significant diamonds:

An 118 ct GIA-graded Fancy yellow diamond purchased for $7.1 million (twice the estimate) by Siba Corp., a New York-based dealer of major gemstones, in honor of its founder Sam Abram who had passed away shortly before the sale
The Jonker V, a 25.27 ct GIA-graded D VS1 diamond cut in 1934 from the famed 726 ct Jonker Diamond, found in South Africa, which achieved its estimate of $3 million

One-of-a-Kind Pieces and Prices
But even when prices in general are softening, truly one-of-a-kind pieces will always command top-dollar because buyers know they will not likely see them again.
“A perfect case in point was the Wittelsbach blue diamond,” Kadakia said. “We sold that for a record $23.4 million in 2009 when the financial markets had crashed.”

The Catherine emerald, mined in Colombia over 250 years ago, sold for $4.3, nearly $1 million above its high estimate. The emerald, originally a 107 ct square cut, was acquired by Catherine the Great, the Russian monarch, around 1790 and passed through Russian royalty until 1920. The gem was recut in 1954 to remove inclusions.  Photo Russell Shor/GIA
The most publicized lot of Christie’s May 15 auction was surely one-of-a-kind: The Imperial Emerald of Grand Duchess Vladimir of Russia, which originally belonged to empress Catherine the Great.
The emerald’s rich history started when it was acquired as a 107.67 ct square cut by Catherine the Great toward the end of the 18th century. It passed through Russian royalty after her death until Cartier purchased it in 1927. Cartier had the emerald recut into a pear shape of 75.63 cts to eliminate most of the fissures and inclusions and then sold it to John D. Rockefeller Jr. in 1954.
Valuing the gem was difficult because of its provenance, Kadakia said.
“We met with the trade, as we often do, and they asked us to list it without adding its history to the price.”
Christie’s experts listed the pre-sale estimate of $2.3 million to $3.5 million in the catalog.
“If we’d gotten that, then it we could say we achieved the value of the emerald itself. Anything higher would be the add-on for its history,” Kakadia noted.
When the bidding ended, an anonymous private buyer paid $4.3 million for the emerald, adding about $1 million for the history.

The 19 ct Fancy Light pink Le Grand Mazarin diamond was presented to French King Louis XIV in 1661 by Cardinal Mazarin, passed through a succession of French monarchs and, later, emperor Napoleon Bonaparte. © Christie, Manson & Woods LTD (2017)
Two years ago, Christie’s added $1 million to the $4 million pre-sale estimate of the 19 ct Fancy Light pink Le Grand Mazarin diamond presented to French King Louis XIV in 1661 by Cardinal Mazarin. It was then passed through a succession of French monarchs and, later, emperor Napoleon Bonaparte.
In Kadakia’s words at the time “it was the diamond with the most prestigious and historic provenance still in private hands.” The diamond, which was offered at a November 2017 sale, had been sold in 1887 at the auction of the French crown jewels and was sold through private collections until resurfacing for this auction.
“In the end, the stone sold for almost $15 million – an $11 million premium because of its history,” he said. @chapter:30


Publication Year: - Title: Jadeite Whisperer: Shanghai Jewelry Designer Kaka Zhang Abstract: Jewelry designer Kaka Zhang’s unique designs are inspired by nature and her culture, and by memories of things she has seen in the past. Photo courtesy of Kaka Zhang

                      It’s rare to meet someone whose interests as well as talents encompass art, science, and business, but such was the case when we met successful jewelry designer Kaka Zhang in Shanghai, China. When she was three, her father—who wanted her to be an artist—taught her painting. In high school she acquired an interest in, and studied, science and technology. This led her to study gemology at the East China University of Science and Technology under the guidance of Prof. Shouguo Guo.

	Jadeite Buddha Goddess: Guanyin

	Gemology, Art, Science, and Business
Her gemology studies led Miss Zhang to a career that was the perfect combination of science, art, and business. Prof. Guo guided her to jewelry design and e-commerce based on her artistic talents and her interest in the future potential of the internet. Miss Zhang had also worked for an internet company and was convinced of the tremendous business potential of e-commerce.

	Miss Zhang is a rare combination: A passionate, inspired artist and an astute business
	woman. Photo courtesy of Kaka Zhang
Although Miss Zhang was not a jewelry design major, she was able to develop her artistic talents and expand on her painting background with daily practice. She came to the realization that jewelry design requires a combination of art, material selection, and manufacturing knowledge.

Most of Miss Zhang’s design inspirations come from nature and are meant to display nature’s beauty. When she was young, she spent time with her grandfather in the family garden. Those days led to her love of incorporating naturalistic themes into her designs. Also, she points out that nature, flowers, and trees are major themes of traditional Chinese paintings.

	A Tradition of Nature Themes

	Jadeite and Her Jewelry
Jadeite is the main gemstone used by Miss Zhang in her jewelry designs. She explains that it comes in a wealth of colors and patterns, and its luster and texture suit the tastes of the Chinese. In the interviews, she expresses her feelings about the unique bond between jadeite and the Chinese culture. She states that jadeite is varied and graceful and, like Buddhism and Chinese medicine, has deep meaning for the Chinese people that cannot be easily explained. She feels that jadeite jewelry design should reflect China’s history and cultural significance.

	Traditional Buddha Bead Chain

While Miss Zhang loves vivid, transparent jadeite, she also loves incorporating blue hues, both evenly colored and with mottled coloring that resembles floating clouds or flowing water. She says that the blue hues have a more conservative look preferred by many in her age group.

	Miss Zhang likes to use jadeite with a bluish color component. Photo courtesy of Kaka Zhang

	Creating the Design
When it comes to actually creating a design, Miss Zhang holds the piece of jadeite in her hands to feel its shape and quality. She considers what she can add to the piece and what impression it brings to mind. Miss Zhang says that every piece of jadeite is unique and always reminds her of something she has seen in the past.

She gets a great deal of inspiration directly from a piece of jadeite. It might remind her of a landscape. If a piece reminds her of a goldfish, she might design a jewelry piece to resemble a fish jumping out of the water. She often purchases jadeite carved into different shapes like leaves, flowers, and calabash—a gourd that symbolizes wealth and good luck to the Chinese.

	Cultural Themes

	Miss Zhang uses a wide range of jadeite qualities, including fine green material, in her jewelry creations. Photo courtesy of Kaka Zhang

	The Market for Her Pieces
Miss Zhang’s jewelry pieces fall into high end, moderate, and commercial price ranges. The high-end pieces are usually sold to her older clientele so she incorporates traditional designs into them. She designs pieces set with high-quality jadeite in a more natural state, following the jadeite’s essence and adding a few design elements as decoration. For lower-priced jewelry, her designs are more imaginative and she adds more elements. Most of the customers for moderate- to lower-priced pieces are younger and more open to imaginative designs with a variety of design elements.

	High-quality Jadeite Water Drop

Miss Zhang told us that traditional designs are safer and that a greater use of imagination is riskier and comes with some expectation of failure. But she likes being imaginative and trying different designs. When it comes to design, she prefers to follow her heart and not just the commercial market. This explains why she has become recognized for her work.

Many Chinese consumers place a lot of importance on jewelry’s intrinsic value, so the price range of the jewelry must reflect both the value of the materials and the design and workmanship. She says that although Western designers can demand high prices based on design and branding, Chinese designers must base price also on the value of the components. Her clients are often not as traditional as many Chinese consumers and will focus more on the design aspects of the piece and how it affects their feelings when buying.

Miss Zhang sees a direct correlation between her sales and the growth of the Chinese economy and the rise of China’s importance as an economic power. When discussing jadeite sales, she says the Chinese have an old saying: “Buy gold when society is not stable and buy jade when it is prosperous.” She says that China’s economic boom is the reason the country’s jade market has been so strong.

	Her Business and Customers
Women are the primary target market for her designs and materials, and make up 99 percent of her customer base. She does business primarily on the internet and her customers are mostly in their 20s to 40s. Even within that group, however, there are differences in taste.

While older customers have more discretionary income to buy jewelry, they do not buy from the internet as much as those in her customers’ age group. Because of her older customers’ higher spending capacity, they select jewelry pieces with higher-value jadeite. Higher jadeite quality levels are more accepted in their social circles and at the events they attend.

Customers in their 20s do not have as much of a budget for jewelry purchases. They often buy transparent, near-colorless jadeite that is extremely popular with their age group but not as accepted by customers in their 40s. Although the price point of this jadeite quality, called ice jade, is lower and better suited for customers in their 20s, the price has been going up due to its popularity and demand.

Ninety percent of Miss Zhang’s business is on the internet, and she has a loyal and enthusiastic customer following. She sells 80 percent of her pieces immediately after they’re posted on her website. She addresses concerns about buying expensive pieces online and builds trust by inviting customers to her studio and holding events to show special high-value pieces.

	Jadeite Bangle Bracelet

Customers often bring friends, so her customer base continues to grow. Ninety percent of her clients are in mainland China, with 10 percent from Taiwan, Hong Kong, and overseas.

In the interview, Miss Zhang describes her Small Office Home Office (SOHO) life to us. Her design studio and internet business are run from her home in Shanghai. Her jewelry is manufactured by a factory in Shenzhen. She visited numerous factories before selecting the master jewelers she felt comfortable communicating her designs to. She has a great relationship with them, and the jewelers skillfully translate her designs into finished jewelry. She describes their relationship this way: “I play the role of their eyes and they are my hands.”

One of the interesting aspects of her career is that over the years she has met many clients who share her passion and ideas. They have become more than customers—there are many that she considers friends. Her conversations with them are a great treasure to her. Many of them have supported her since the beginning of her career. In fact, many customers send their daughters to her to learn about jewelry design. Miss Zhang is happy to see their interest in becoming the future jewelry designers of China.

	Her Business Style
Miss Zhang firmly believes in educating her customers about jewelry design and materials. She has written articles on the subject and also explains it to customers in person. She says, “I think selling is not just pushing customers and telling them how low-priced the pieces are. You should be able to teach your customers and enrich their knowledge about gemstones. Then they will trust you and accept your brand. I am more like a consultant than a pure salesperson.” She also posts jadeite pieces for her customers and listens to their design ideas while educating them about design and manufacturing, allowing for the creation of customized pieces.

	Combining Materials

Her dream is to run a private jewelry club instead of a retail store. Miss Zhang feels that retail stores are too commercialized and formal for her. She prefers to create an easy and relaxed environment for her customers and treat them more as friends. @chapter:36


Publication Year: 1986 Title: Spring 1986 Gem News International Abstract: Diamonds
            India: New Deposits Discovered
            Japan: World’s Largest Synthetic Industrial Diamond
            South Africa: Diamond Inclusions in Pyrope
            Sri Lanka: Geological Exploration Planned
Colored Stones
            Fade Testing Yellow Sapphire
            Pala in Sri Lanka
            Unusual Sri Lankan Sapphires
Synthetics
            “Watermelon” Beryl
Announcements
            Lizzadro Museum of Lapidary Art
            World Diamond Conference in Tel Aviv

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:7


Publication Year: 2022 Title: Quarterly Crystal: Hillocks on Beryl Abstract: Figure 1. Measuring 22.28 mm in length and weighing 31.06 ct, the outer pinacoidal surface on the termination of this Pakistani aquamarine crystal is decorated with numerous hexagonal growth hillocks. Photo by Nathan Renfro.
Whenever we study natural uncut gem minerals, we carefully examine all outer surfaces for any photogenic etch figures or growth hillocks that might yield interesting and educational photographs. For this issue’s Quarterly Crystal, we recently had the opportunity to study a very well-formed, gem-quality aquamarine crystal supplied by Ali Shad of Shad Fine Minerals in Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan. The aquamarine, pictured in figure 1, was reportedly from the Qandahar mine, located in the Braldu Valley, Shigar District, Gilgit-Baltistan, Pakistan.
At 31.06 ct with corresponding measurements of 22.28 × 14.50 × 11.24 mm, this aquamarine did not show etch figures on any of its crystal faces, proving that the beryl had not gone through post-growth dissolution. However, examination showed that the pinacoid was completely covered with small hexagonal growth hillocks (figure 2) of the type discussed by John Sinkankas in Emerald and Other Beryls (1981) and illustrated on page 273. The hillocks on the terminal pinacoid, which were all generally of the same small size, blanketed the termination completely. Under high magnification, the hexagonal hillocks appeared very complex in form (figure 3). Their sharp, pristine, geometric habit once again illustrated that post-growth dissolution of this crystal had not taken place.

Figure 2. The generally uniform size of the numerous growth hillocks on the terminal pinacoid of the aquamarine is clearly shown in this shadowed reflected light image. The bright colors result from light interacting with thin-film separations in the body of the aquamarine. Photomicrograph by Nathan Renfro; field of view 7.97 mm.

Figure 3. The complexity of some of the hexagonal growth hillocks on the pinacoid of the aquamarine is shown in closer detail in this differential interference contrast image. Photomicrograph by Nathan Renfro; field of view 2.32 mm. @chapter:10


Publication Year: 2024 Title: The price of pearl jewelry in Denmark has increased by more than 500 percent. Abstract: Due to the COVID-19 pandemic situation, pearl farms have halted production, coinciding with a rapid increase in the popularity of pearls in the fashion industry. This has led to a significant rise in prices for high-quality cultured pearls over the past few months.

Importing and jewelry company Birgitte Munch provided information to the Danish business newspaper Børsen, stating that the prices of cultured pearls in the global market have surged. Companies now need to pay over five times more to purchase these products for manufacturing. This observation is echoed by jewelry auction company Bruun Rasmussen Kunstauktioner.

Torben Skov Pearls, one of Denmark's largest pearl importers, with a stock of over 100,000 cultured pearls, revealed that they exported a large quantity of pearls to China for the first time since 2543 B.E. This trend has been observed both in the general fashion industry and on red carpets.

Additionally, Torben Skov Pearls, the pearl jewelry importer, mentioned that the popularity of pearls in the pearl and jewelry industry has rapidly increased over the past decade, especially since 2561 B.E. Danish female consumers prefer large baroque freshwater pearls due to their affordability, using them for earrings and pendants.

Moreover, in recent years, pearls have become a popular item for men as well. Since 2562 B.E., celebrities and famous male personalities, including British singer Harry Styles, actor Jason Momoa, Danish designer Søren Le Schmidt, singer Christoffer, and TV presenter Abdel Aziz Mahmoud, have been wearing pearl jewelry, particularly white cultured pearl necklaces.

This popularity in pearls is part of the understated luxury trend, complementing vintage watches from the 1950s-1960s and Hermès bags, reflecting simplicity, classic elegance, and luxury for the wearer. @chapter:36


Publication Year: 2021 Title: Adapting to the Changes with Paula Crevoshay Abstract: Figure 1. This award-winning pendant featuring a 5.30 ct heated orange sapphire from Montana depicts a blooming brown-eyed Susan. Wildflowers are one of Paula Crevoshay’s favorite themes. Courtesy of Paula Crevoshay.

With the cancellation of the 2021 Tucson AGTA show, this author’s annual meeting with jewelry designer Paula Crevoshay went virtual. The conversation started with her 2020 AGTA Spectrum Award–winning piece, followed by how her business adapted to the new norm under the circumstances brought by the pandemic.
Ms. Crevoshay’s “Brown-Eyed Susan” won the Gem DIVA Award for classical wear (figure 1). This bespoke 18K yellow gold pendant features a 5.30 ct orange Montana sapphire from the Rock Creek deposit, operated by Potentate Mining. Although this stone is heated, the color saturation and size still make it a significant sapphire from this location, according to the mine owner. The center stone is accented with yellow and orange sapphires (8.69 carats total) in addition to black and cognac diamonds (1.98 carats total).
While Ms. Crevoshay has always blended the nature of the stones with her art, she also tells stories through her jewelry creations. This piece is no exception. It continues the story from her first-ever flower themed piece, inspired by the bitterroot wildflower, which thrives on the hillsides of the Rock Creek sapphire mine. By early June, the slopes are covered by bitterroot and brown-eyed Susans. Upon seeing this orange sapphire, she immediately thought to place it at the center of a brown-eyed Susan pendant. Creating these beautiful floral jewelry pieces is never easy because of the time it takes to find so many stones in specific colors. This is also why she has never reproduced any of her jewelry, unless as a replacement for a lost piece.
As a business owner, Ms. Crevoshay also felt the impact of the pandemic. With careful planning and quick adaptation, she was able to keep her employees safe so that they could continue to work. In fact, 2020 was a good year financially for her company due to the relationships built with the stone supply chain over the past several decades and the customer base she has carefully maintained. To help manufacturers downstream survive, she also intentionally diverted her work to different jewelry-making studios, most of them located in Asia.
Being able to talk face-to-face with customers and provide fashion suggestions even beyond jewelry wear is an asset; connecting with them virtually during the pandemic is also critical. Ms. Crevoshay hosts regular online gatherings with her clients, which have been quite successful in keeping people in the loop. During the 2020 holiday season, she created a digital flipbook for customers to explore at their convenience (see figure 2).

Figure 2. Paula Crevoshay’s digital flipbook for the 2020 holiday season featured more than 50 jewelry creations. Courtesy of Paula Crevoshay.
Ms. Crevoshay advises that staying connected at all times and adapting to unexpected circumstances are key for both industry veterans and newcomers. @chapter:21


Publication Year: 2018 Title: D-Color Natural IIa Diamond with Walstromite Inclusion Abstract: Figure 1. A CaSiO3-walstromite inclusion (100 μm) in a 3.0 ct diamond with fan-shaped black fractures. Graphite (less than 10 μm) was identified in the black fracture. Photomicrograph by Ying Ma.
Nondestructive testing methods such as Raman, photoluminescence (PL), and infrared spectroscopy have been widely applied to identify diamond and its inclusions. The NV0/− (nitrogen-vacancy) and V0 (vacancy) centers are used as a probe to confirm whether the color of a type IIa diamond is natural or caused by high-pressure, high temperature (HPHT) treatment or irradiation (Fall 2016 Lab Notes, pp. 299–301; D. Fisher et al., “The vacancy as a probe of the strain in type IIa diamonds,” Diamond and Related Materials, Vol. 15, No. 10, 2006, pp. 1636–1642).
Recently, the National Gemstone Testing Center (NGTC) laboratory in Shenzhen received a 3.0 ct diamond for identification. The stone was a standard round brilliant cut with D color, SI2 clarity, and a diameter of 9.2 mm. When exposed to DiamondView imaging, the diamond exhibited medium blue fluorescence. It was identified as type IIa because no nitrogen- or boron-related absorptions were detected in the 800–1400 cm–1 range and at 2802 cm–1. Nitrogen-vacancy centers NV0 (575 nm) and NV– (637 nm) were not detected, either.

Figure 2. In these Raman spectra, the blue line represents a reference spectrum for CaSiO3-walstromite (Smith et al., 2016, supplementary materials; 500–1100 cm–1). The red trace is from CaSiO3-walstromite in the 3.0 ct diamond (500–1100 cm–1) in the inset photo. The black line shows that the fissure is filled with black graphite; the peak at 1576 cm–1 is the G band of graphite, and the D peaks belong to diamond.
Magnification revealed some mineral inclusions and fan-shaped fractures (figure 1). Part of the fissure was filled with black material. We identified the inclusion in figure 1 as CaSiO3-walstromite and confirmed that the black fracture contained graphite using a Renishaw inVia micro-Raman confocal microscope equipped with a green solid laser (532 nm) focused through a 50× short-working-distance objective (figure 2). As the most abundant Ca-bearing mineral inclusion found in superdeep diamonds, CaSiO3-walstromite is believed to derive from CaSiO3-perovskite. Perovskite-structure minerals are predominant in the earth’s lower mantle more than 600 km below the surface. The presence of CaSiO3-walstromite and Ca-silicate inclusions is a strong indication of superdeep origin (C. Anzolini et al., “Depth of formation of superdeep diamonds: Raman barometry of CaSiO3-walstromite inclusions,” American Mineralogist, Vol. 103, No. 1, 2018, pp. 69–74).

Figure 3. In this DiamondView image of the 3.0 ct diamond, the black arrow indicates the site of dislocation networks. Image by Ying Ma.
The 3.0 ct diamond was similar to CLIPPIR (Cullinan-like, Large, Inclusion-Poor, Pure, Irregular, and Resorbed) diamonds (E.M. Smith et al., “Large gem diamonds from metallic liquid in Earth’s deep mantle,” Science, Vol. 354, No. 6318, pp. 1403–1405). Many CLIPPIR diamonds are of top color grades and type IIa, originating from a depth between 360 and 750 km. Dislocation networks, a relatively common feature in type IIa diamonds, were also found (figure 3). Dislocation networks in diamond are interpreted to be equivalent to the polygonized structure of dislocations in other minerals that have been deformed and subsequently annealed (H. Kanda et al., “Change in cathodoluminescence spectra and images of type II high-pressure synthetic diamond produced with high pressure and temperature treatment,” Diamond and Related Materials, Vol. 14, No. 11-12, 2005, pp. 1928–1931; K. De Corte et al., “Overview of dislocation networks in natural type IIa diamonds,” Fall 2006 G&G, pp. 122–123). High-temperature experimental treatment of synthetic type II diamond can also reproduce dislocation structures (H. Kanda et al., 2005; D. Fisher et al., “Brown colour in natural diamond and interaction between the brown related and other colour-inducing defects,” Journal of Physics: Condensed Matter, Vol. 21, No. 36, 2009, 364213).

Figure 4. The diamond’s infrared spectrum shows no detectable nitrogen-related absorption in the 800–1400 cm–1 range. The diamond absorption peak is at 1332 cm–1, while the peaks at 5785, 1263, 1124, and 437–669 cm–1 are unknown.

Figure 5. The diamond has a strong V0-GR1 center (741, 745 nm) and a weak (NVN)0 center (503 nm). The NV0 (575 nm) and NV– centers (637 nm) were not detected at liquid nitrogen temperature at either 325 nm (top) or 473 nm (bottom) laser excitation. The designation of the 505, 524, 668, 694, and 706 nm bands is unknown.
CLIPPIR diamonds sometimes exhibit infrared absorption at 3107 cm–1; this is a nitrogen-bearing (VN3H) defect (J.P. Goss et al., “Identification of the structure of the 3107 cm–1 H-related defect in diamond,” Journal of Physics: Condensed Matter, Vol. 26, No. 14, 2014, 145801). This diamond has no clear signature of infrared absorption at 3107 cm–1 or NV centers (PL: 575 and 637 nm). We believe that the cause of this is an extremely low level of nitrogen, below the detection limits of the instrument (figures 4 and 5). The lack of nitrogen in type IIa diamond is associated with less color in the diamond. This diamond has a strong V0-GR1 center (741, 745 nm) and no NV0/− (575 nm) and V0 (637 nm) centers (figure 5).
The CaSiO3-walstromite inclusion in this 3.0 ct diamond indicates a natural diamond from a very deep origin. @chapter:11


Publication Year: 1991 Title: An Examination of Nontransparent “CZ” from Russia Abstract: White, pink, and black nontransparent synthetic "cubic zirconia" is currently being manufactured in Russia and marketed primarily in cabochon and bead form. These unusual materials are potentially useful as substitutes for such gem materials as pearl, dyed black chalcedony ("onyx"), and even black diamond. The authors provide a detailed description of these new products, including the chemistry and probable manufacturing techniques. These products can be readily identified by standard gemological tests. @chapter:17


Publication Year: - Title: Kunzite Journey of the Stone Abstract: This miner is handling a kunzite crystal at the Oceanview Mine in Pala, California, for the very first time since its formation. - Brendan Laurs

                      Few people outside the gem industry realize the true nature of a gemstone’s journey from the mine to the jewelry-store counter. Whether the gem is being offered to consumers at a traditional jewelry store, an internet shopping site, or a television broadcast, the journey always involves a great deal of effort. Tons of earth and countless hours of labor are needed to bring a gem from mine to market. @chapter:22


Publication Year: 1990 Title: Spring 1990 Gem News International Abstract: Tucson ‘90
            Beryl Triplet Cabochons
            Diffusion-Treated Corundum
            Star Ekanite
            Cat's-Eye Iolite
            Mother-of-Pearl Cameos
            Dyed Green Quartzite
            New World Sapphires
            Cat's-Eye Spinel
            Red Taaffeite
            Treated Paraiba Tourmalines
            Tanzanian Zircon
Diamonds
            Filled Diamond Update
            Computer Technology Enhances New Diamond Sorter
            Kimberlites Discovered in Canada
            Israeli-Japanese Joint Diamond-Polishing Venture
            Ghana Considers Private Mining
            Australians Develop New Technology for Diamond Exploration
Colored Stones
            New Amethyst Discovery in the Eastern United States
            Beryl Discovery in Finland
            New Find of Orthoclase
            California Star Quartz
            East African Spinels
            Oregon Sunstone Update
            Largest Known Faceted Liddicoatite Tourmaline Reportedly Found in Brazil
            Unusual Iridescent Zircon
Synthetics and Simulants
            Glass Imitation Emerald Crystal
            New Synthetic Ruby

To view the full section, download the PDF above. @chapter:23


Publication Year: 2019 Title: Glass-Filled Polki-Cut CVD Synthetic Diamonds Abstract: Figure 1. These “polkis” exhibiting a square profile, (0.27–0.29 ct) were identified as glass-filled CVD synthetic diamonds. Photo by Gagan Choudhary.

The term polki refers to a flat-cut diamond that is a simple and ancient form of today’s “rose cut” and has been popular in traditional Indian kundan-meena jewelry. Since most commercial-quality polkis are fashioned from flat rough crystals (macles, for example) or chips derived from the cutting of larger crystals, they often contain cleavages or fissures opening on the surface, making them even more delicate. In the past decade, the trade has been flooded with polkis filled with high-RI glass to improve their clarity as well as durability, and these have been widely used in kundan-meena jewelry.

Figure 2. Glass filling in the three polkis from figure 1 was indicated by color flashes along cleavages and fissures (left and right). Also note multiple parallel incipient and intersecting cleavage planes in the left image. Photomicrographs by Gagan Choudhary; fields of view 6.35 mm (left) and 5.08 mm (right).
Recently, the Gem Testing Laboratory (GJEPC) in Jaipur received three light gray to brown polki-cut diamonds (figure 1) with square profiles for identification. They weighed 0.27–0.29 ct and measured 6.86–7.41 mm long and 0.36–0.41 mm thick. The client informed us that the polkis were natural but wanted to know if they were glass-filled. On initial examination under a microscope, glass filling in all three was evidenced by color flashes (figure 2), typically blue, violet, and pink, along with some crackling effects within the fissures and cleavage planes in two directions, intersecting each other at almost 90° (octahedral cleavage in diamond). The presence of glass (containing lead and bromine) was further confirmed by energy-dispersive X-ray fluorescence (EDXRF) analyses. These polkis also displayed a few dark brown grains, some of which were associated with stress cracks. No attempt was made to identify the nature of these grains.
Considering our past experiences with polkis having square profiles, further tests were performed to determine a natural or synthetic origin. When viewed under crossed polarizers, all three polkis displayed a checkerboard strain pattern from the top and sub-parallel columnar patterns from the sides. Infrared spectra confirmed all three specimens as type IIa; DiamondView imaging displayed orange fluorescence, but no distinct growth patterns could be resolved. No phosphorescence was detected in any of the samples. Such growth patterns (under crossed polarizers) and fluorescence have been observed previously in CVD-grown synthetic diamonds by this author, as well as reported in the literature (e.g., P.M. Martineau et al., “Identification of synthetic diamond grown using chemical vapor deposition (CVD),” Spring 2004 G&G, pp. 2–25). Furthermore, photoluminescence spectra using 532 nm laser excitation revealed a distinct silicon vacancy–related peak at ~737 nm, even at room temperature (figure 3). This feature is widely used by gemological laboratories to identify synthetic diamonds (both CVD- and HPHT-grown).

Figure 3. The room-temperature photoluminescence spectrum of each polki sample, with 532 nm laser excitation, revealed a strong silicon-vacancy related feature at ~737 nm.
In the past we have seen numerous examples of polki-cut diamonds with glass filling, as well as many CVD synthetic diamonds fashioned as polkis. This was the first time we had encountered glass-filled CVD synthetic diamond polkis, though their market penetration is unknown. Although glass filling is not challenging to identify, encountering it in synthetic diamonds could lead to a misidentification as natural, especially among the trade. Since diamond polkis are usually fashioned from flat rough or chips derived during cutting larger crystals, they often display triangular or irregular profiles, while the polkis described here had a square profile. In view of this, square-shaped polkis offer the best yield for crystals with square profiles, such as natural cubic crystal or synthetic diamond crystals grown by the CVD process, which display a square and tabular habit. Therefore, this feature is quite useful in raising doubts, especially when mixed in parcels of polki-cut natural diamond. @chapter:31


Publication Year: 2016 Title: “Pond Life” Orbicular Chalcedony Abstract: Figure 1. “Pond Life,” a 50.95 ct orbicular chalcedony cabochon measuring 48.5 × 27.0 × 5.5 mm, evokes a pond. The “frog eggs” are actually iron-containing inclusions surrounded by the host’s concentric growth. Photo by Elise A. Skalwold.

	The seemingly infinite combination of growth features and inclusions seen in microcrystalline quartz fires the imagination, often evoking visual metaphors (see “Aurora Iris Agate” in this column). Such is the case with the orbicular chalcedony seen in figure 1. From a piece of non-descript tumbling rough purchased in 2011, Paul Stalker (Stones by Stalkers, Tioga, Pennsylvania) delighted in creating what he christened “Pond Life,” as the 50.95 ct piece’s polished appearance resembles frog eggs within a pond.

	Exploring the interior of such microcrystalline varieties of jaspers and agates can be just as fascinating as exploring inclusions within single-crystal quartzes, though these opportunities may be overlooked when dazzled by complex macro features. Orbicular chalcedonies such as this ocean jasper are particularly interesting. Here, iron-containing inclusions such as limonite, goethite, and hematite are surrounded by the concentric growth of the host material, which displays the unique fibrous texture found in some types of chalcedony (figure 2, left). Bundles of fibers composed of crystallites are combined with mutually complex optical orientations, giving rise to the eye-visible effect. While beautiful in transmitted, reflected, and polarized light, the addition of various contrast filters can dramatically enhance the details of these subtle growth features, making them easier to study, as well as creating stunning images of a specimen’s inner world (figure 2, right). For more on advanced filtering techniques, see Fall 2015 Micro-World, pp. 328–329.

	Figure 2. The use of a red contrast filter with transmitted light (left) dramatizes growth textures, making them easier to study than with unfiltered transmitted light (right) while creating an aesthetically pleasing image. Photomicrograph by John I. Koivula; field of view 4.0 mm. @chapter:13


Publication Year: - Title: Echoes of the Edwardian Era Abstract: Diamonds, silver, gold, and tortoise shell sparkle in this period tiara. Courtesy of a Private Collection

                      Diamonds. Pearls. Platinum. Symmetry. This defined Edwardian Era jewelry – and it’s still is extremely popular with modern designers.

Take a step back in time to the Edwardian Era (1900 – 1915). The sun never set on the British Empire. England was flush with power and wealth. Tastemaker Edward VII was king. For the landed gentry, the Edwardian Era was a period of prosperity and privilege. Perhaps the Titanic, the most luxurious and largest ocean-liner of its time, best captured the spirit of the age with her First, Second, and Third Class cabins. The arts in Great Britain served a definite purpose during the Edwardian Era; they were frequently used to reinforce the class system. Architecture, for example, was symmetrical and orderly, which evoked power, stability, and status.

	Class divisions were everywhere – even at bath houses. The Victoria Baths in Manchester had separate entrances for first class males, second class males, and females.

		Jewelry was a preferred way to show one’s rank in society. Only the upper classes could afford it, and they advertised their wealth and position by wearing exquisite works.

		Robert Ackermann, Jewelry Manufacturing Arts instructor, Carlsbad, GIA.

	Platinum, diamonds, and pearls were the materials of choice. Garlands and triumphal laurel wreaths belonging to a conqueror’s crown were common themes. These regal materials and motifs spoke of the might of the British Empire and the importance of the wearer. Stately tiaras, pendants, necklaces, and chokers were not only the style of the day but also carried symbolic weight. For example, it was rude for a lady to wear taller tiara in the presence of a woman of higher rank. Diamonds were abundant in Edwardian jewelry due to the discovery of mines in South Africa in the 1880s. A ready supply of the gem was now available, and Britain’s aristocracy quickly fell in love with the glittering stone.

	Pearls dangle from this diamond and cat’s eye alexandrite cabochon pendant.
Pearls were also popular during the Edwardian Era, and were often showcased in a piece of jewelry. Drop a pearl in a bed of diamonds or set it in platinum, and Edwardians thought this blazingly white-hot combination to be the height of sophistication and elegance. Although many of the customs of the Edwardian Era may seem to be a part of the distant past, the international success of Downton Abbey, the television drama whose first season was set in Edwardian England, proves that we are still fascinated by the time. And if you look around a jewelry store, you’ll see that Edwardian jewelry continues to influence contemporary designers. @chapter:16


Publication Year: 2023 Title: G&G Contributors Awarded for Best Geoscience Research Abstract: Diamond: Genesis, Mineralogy and Geochemistry, Volume 88 in the Reviews in Mineralogy and Geochemistry series, received this year’s Mary B. Ansari Best Geoscience Research Resource Award.
Several G&G authors and editorial board members are among those honored for their contributions to a recent volume in the Reviews in Mineralogy and Geochemistry series (see above). The Geoscience Information Society’s annual Mary B. Ansari Best Geoscience Research Resource Award recognizes the year’s outstanding reference publication or website. The 88th volume in the Reviews series, Diamond: Genesis, Mineralogy and Geochemistry is a comprehensive resource covering a wide range of diamond-related subjects. The publication is available for download at geoscienceworld.org and minsocam.org.
Congratulations to volume editors Karen Smit, Steve Shirey, Graham Pearson, Thomas Stachel, Fabrizio Nestola, and Thomas Moses, as well as G&G contributors Christopher M. Breeding, Jim Butler, Alan Collins, Ulrika D’Haenens-Johansson, Dorrit Jacob, Mandy Krebs, and Evan Smith for their chapters in the volume. @chapter:29


Publication Year: 2017 Title: Lizard Skin on Deformed Diamond Abstract: Figure 1. A 2.67 ct oval-cut diamond with uneven “lizard skin” surface texture. Close-up views of the pavilion with reflected light show how the textured pattern continues across facet junctions. Photos by Evan Smith; fields of view 3.56 mm (center) and 1.29 mm (right).
Facets that are nearly parallel to a diamond’s octahedral crystal plane often develop a wavy, rippled appearance called “lizard skin” during polishing (e.g., J.I. Koivula, The MicroWorld of Diamonds, Gemworld International, Northbrook, Illinois, 2000, p. 63). The term is also used more broadly to describe any bumpy, uneven surface texture that develops on polished diamond facets. It is often attributed to polishing off-grain. Recently, GIA’s New York lab encountered a 2.67 ct type IIa diamond (figure 1, left) with especially prominent lizard skin texture on multiple facets (figure 1, center and right). In this case, the texture appears to have developed due to a preexisting deformation fabric or structure inherent to the diamond itself, rather than merely as a consequence of poor polishing technique.

The surface texture has a pattern to it, with small bumps appearing to line up in corridors. Some corridors clearly continue from one facet to the next (figure 1, right). The continuity across facets suggests that this texture is the surface expression of irregularities that actually extend into the volume of the diamond itself. At high magnification with crossed polarizing filters, the lizard skin can be seen to conform to the shape and texture of the strain pattern within the diamond—that is, the pattern of bumps and depressions matches up where the intricate internal dark/light pattern of tatami birefringence meets the polished surface. This connection supports the idea that the surface texture is a reflection of underlying crystal imperfections.

Unusual hydrogen- and methane-bearing metallic inclusions in this diamond suggest it originated from extreme depths of about 360–750 km in the earth’s mantle (E.M. Smith et al., “Large gem diamonds from metallic liquid in Earth’s deep mantle,” Science, Vol. 354, No. 6318, 2016, pp. 1403–1405). In this high-temperature environment, deformation and annealing over a long period of time may have given the diamond a mosaic crystal structure. This natural phenomenon occurs when heat allows the crystal to undergo recovery, a process of dislocation reorganization that divides the distorted grain into a mosaic of smaller, undistorted subgrains without new crystal growth. The subgrains, measuring about 10–30 microns, are like bricks in a wall; while the wall may be slightly curved, the individual bricks are not distorted. These distortions become localized as subgrain boundaries rather than spreading continuously through the crystal. As a result, the subgrains will be oriented in slightly different directions.

Because polishing is so strongly dependent on crystal orientation, if a single facet consists of a mosaic of subgrains with varying orientation, polishing will be uneven. The resulting surface may develop a pattern of bumps and depressions that mimics the size and shape of underlying subgrains and, in turn, reflects the diamond’s natural deformation history. Samples like this one are interesting for scientists because little is known about the geological conditions that lead to the various deformation-related features seen in natural diamonds. @chapter:11


Publication Year: 2014 Title: Dyed Green Marble Imitating Jadeite Abstract: Figure 1. This was claimed to be a high-quality piece of jadeite jade mounted in a yellow metal pendant. The oval cabochon measured 39.8 × 29.8 mm, exhibited a homogenous green color, and on first impression appeared to resemble jadeite. Photo by Lai Tai-An Gem Lab.

              A client of the Lai-Tai An Gem Lab in Taipei recently submitted for identification what was claimed to be a piece of fine jadeite mounted in a yellow metal pendant (figure 1). The oval cabochon measured 39.8 × 29.8 mm and exhibited a homogenous green color. At first glance, it bore a strong resemblance to jadeite. While dyes, polymer treatments, or a combination of the two are commonly applied to jadeite—and dyed green quartzite is sometimes used to imitate green jadeite and other materials such as glass and plastic—this piece proved to be dyed green marble with calcite as the main mineral. This was the first time dyed marble had been represented to us as jadeite.

Although marble is fairly abundant, calcite’s low hardness and easily visible cleavages do not make it a viable substitute for jadeite. Yet it does lend itself well to carving. Chinese merchants often sell untreated carved marble by the trade names “Hanbai jade” or “Afghanistan jade,” or even offer such material as “antique jade.” Jade, pronounced “yu” in Chinese, is a general term that typically applies to aggregates of minerals. Marble in the Chinese jewelry market is frequently fashioned into bangles and carved pendants, and some may subsequently be dyed or partially dyed to imitate jadeite jade. Although it was impossible to calculate the SG of this mounted specimen, calcite’s RI of 1.65 overlaps with jadeite jade’s, leading to the possible misidentification of such material (J.M. Hobbs, “The jade enigma,” Spring 1982 G&G, pp. 3–19).

	Figure 2. Raman peaks at around 1084, 712, 275, and 145 cm–1 were consistent with calcite.
The identification was determined using Raman and FTIR spectroscopy. The sample showed Raman peaks at around 1084, 712, 275, and 145 cm–1 (figure 2), with IR peaks at around 1445 and 878 cm–1. Microscopic observation revealed a network of dyed grain boundaries (figure 3). The dye treatment was confirmed with the spectroscope, where a single broad band typical of some green dyes was clearly evident in the red-orange region. Long-wave UV did not offer any distinction. Although destructive tests are always avoided, the client allowed us to gently scratch the surface with a metal pointer, which confirmed the material’s low hardness. This submission reinforces the need to consider all types of material when dealing with items resembling jadeite.

Figure 3. Microscopic observation revealed a network of dyed grain boundaries. Photo by Lai Tai-An Gem Lab; magnified 50×. @chapter:37


Publication Year: 2017 Title: Book Review: Hidden Gems: Jewellery Stories from the Saleroom Abstract: By Sarah Hue-Williams and Raymond Sancroft-Baker, 312 pp., hardcover, illus., publ. by Unicorn Press, London, 2016, US$50.00.

True stories sell. In Hidden Gems: Jewellery Stories from the Saleroom by Sarah Hue-Williams and Raymond Sancroft-Baker, 40 highly captivating and significant stories are recounted in celebration of the 250th anniversary of Christie’s auction house. Various chapters focus on Hollywood icons and their jewelry, the historical pieces of English lords and ladies, and designers important to the industry. The book includes details on important objects interspersed with homey tales of quiet personages simply wanting someone else to have their turn with beautiful jewelry.

The authors tell entertaining stories of Christie’s opening in Los Angeles in the mid-1990s. The multiple tales regarding the sale of the late Eva Gabor’s jewelry quickly grabs the reader’s attention, especially when documenting the auction house’s experiences with the world’s most glamourous executrix: Eva’s sister Zsa Zsa Gabor. Not only do you get to feel the dance of negotiations—“But dahlink, you know I always use Christie’s” while pursuing negotiations with other auction houses—we learn that the potential star of the auction, Eva’s diamond engagement ring, was nothing more than a glorious, eye-catching fake. The authors assure the reader that the faux piece was quickly pulled from the sale.

Balancing Hollywood glitz, stories abound in the elegantly composed book about English nobility quietly deaccessioning passé Victorian pieces, too-fussy Edwardian tiaras and stomachers, even artful Art Deco jeweled cases for a lady’s evening bag. No compilation of tales about an English auction house would be complete without a story or two about classically eccentric English ladies of means. The detailed conversation between a house-bound collector and Christie’s representative strike a resonant chord with anyone that has ever cultivated a sales relationship with a highly valued client, but the gemological history of her ever-increasing collection of Victorian jewelry also serves as a great teaching aid to interested readers. The Hull-Grundy collection, which an entire chapter is devoted to, explores the art of the cameo as executed by two famous artists, Fortunato Pio Castellani and Tommaso Saulino.

The authors go to great lengths to be accurate and fair when relating information about the gems and jewelry sold at Christie’s. The final section in the book carefully delineates gemological standards and information; these are indeed much like the sections within the auction house’s sales catalogues. The section then takes it a step further and gives the reader a tour of the world’s jewelry centers, including London’s Hatton Garden.

To hold your interest, all 40 stories in this cherished work are accompanied by high-quality photographs of the sold lots. There is an art to telling a story and an art to photographing jewelry; this book succeeds on both counts. The captivating snippets of the backstories of items in an auction catalog truly intrigue the reader. Until now, it was unclear that some of the pieces offered were the result of careful cultivation of the client after viewing their private menagerie. In particular, stories about customers coming to Christie’s with large diamonds wrapped in tissue pulled from pocketbooks strike a chord with this reader.

When you read this book—and you should—relish the way the stories flow in an intimate conversational manner, note the careful vetting of gemological lore and knowledge and, most importantly, admire the fact that if you work at Christie’s you want to pick up the phone. You never know what will be offered. @chapter:34


Publication Year: 2014 Title: The First Identified Non-Nacreous Beaded Cultured Pearl Abstract: Figure 1. A parcel of natural pen pearls surrounds a 6.92 ct non-nacreous beaded cultured pearl. Photo by Olivier Segura.

              The Laboratoire Français de Gemmologie (LFG) recently had the opportunity to examine a collection of non-nacreous pearls from the Pinnidae family (Pinna and Atrina species). Among these, one black pen pearl drew our attention for its relatively large size: a 10.6–10.6 × 9.6 mm round button weighing 6.92 ct.

Its dark black porcelaneous appearance was typical of pearls from the calcitic part of Atrina vexillum, the kind usually submitted for laboratory analysis (figure 1). Observation at 85× magnification (figure 2) revealed a distinctive pattern of convolution, with a few micro-cracks.

Figure 2. Surface magnification of the non-nacreous beaded cultured pearl revealed a typical calcitic pattern of pen pearls. Photo by Olivier Segura; magnified 85×.
Our findings on these cultured pearls are similar to those of N. Sturman et al. (“Observations on pearls reportedly from the Pinnidae family [pen pearls],” Fall 2014 G&G, pp. 202–215) in terms of Raman spectra (confirming the calcitic nature), UV-Vis spectra, and chemical composition.

The most interesting findings came from X-radiography. Microradiography/tomography imaging clearly shows a bright white disk inside the pearl (figure 3). The continuous separation line around this feature leaves no doubt that there is a bead inside the cultured pearl. As the beads used to nucleate “nacreous” pearls typically come from large freshwater mussels, we know that they are of a slightly denser material than saltwater nacre. Thus, they appear whiter than the surrounding material (of saltwater origin). The bead’s appearance was consistent with a classical nucleus of the kind used in bead-nucleated pearls. Measurement of the bead gave a 6.70 mm diameter.

Figure 3. This microradiograph clearly identifies the pen pearl as a beaded cultured pearl. Image by Olivier Segura.
Tomography confirmed the presence of a near-perfect spherical bead inside the cultured pearl. Even with the owner’s consent, however, we decided not to cut the pearl, as the imaging techniques were sufficient to prove the bead-cultured origin.

We wonder if this gem represents a single specimen achieved by a curious experimenter, or if there is now an industrialized process for cultivating such pearls. The cultivation technique used, even if it is known to produce cultured pearls in farms, requires advanced knowledge of the process. The owner reports having handled a black round pen pearl “the size of a golf ball.” From the size and symmetry and given this new discovery of a bead-cultured pen pearl, one can speculate that this too might be a bead cultured pearl.

This bead nucleation technique for unusual species could have easily been developed in the past. To our knowledge, though, this specimen represents the first non-nacreous beaded cultured pearl examined by a laboratory. Faced with the expansion of the bead culturing process and the possibility of successful trials in different mollusks, gemologists need to be very cautious in natural origin determinations, even when there is every reason to believe a pearl to be natural. @chapter:14


Publication Year: 2008 Title: The Wittelsbach Blue Abstract: The 35.56 ct Wittelsbach Blue is one of the largest historic blue diamonds ever fashioned. It belonged to the Bavarian House of Wittelsbach and was displayed in the Treasury of the Munich Residence until it disappeared in 1931. It was secretly sold in 1951, “rediscovered” in 1961, and then sold again in 1964 to an undisclosed private buyer. In December 2008, the Wittelsbach Blue was sold at Christie’s London to jeweler Lawrence Graff for just over $24.3 million, a record price for any diamond at auction. This article describes what is known about the Wittelsbach Blue since it was first reported in 1666, and the gemological information released to date on this diamond, which was recently graded Fancy Deep grayish blue. Investigations in the historical archives of Bavaria, Austria, and Spain revealed that there is no archival evidence to support many previous statements about this stone.

	DATA DEPOSITORY

Inventory of the Munich Treasury, 1774
	Winter, 2008 @chapter:31


Publication Year: 2001 Title: Pyrope from the Dora Maira Massif, Italy Abstract: Large pyrope crystals containing gem-quality portions have been collected since the early 1990s from the Dora Maira Massif, Western Alps, Italy. These crystals have yielded pale purple to purplish pink gemstones typically up to 1 ct. The chemical composition and physical properties compare favorably to those reported for near-end-member pyrope. Absorption spectra suggest that the color is related to Fe2+ and Mn2+. The pyrope formed in a mica schist-quartzite layer within Paleozoic basement rocks that underwent an Alpine high-pressure/low-temperature metamorphic event. The deposit appears extensive, but future production undoubtedly will be limited due to environmental restraints. Currently about 100 carats per year enter the marketplace. @chapter:4


Publication Year: 2020 Title: Blue Apatite in Pyrope-Spessartine Garnet Abstract: Figure 1. This 5.33 ct red pyrope-spessartine garnet was faceted by the author to display the unusual blue apatite crystal within. Photo by Diego Sanchez.

The author recently had the opportunity to examine and facet a piece of garnet rough. The garnet, reportedly from Madagascar, was acquired from gem cutter and dealer Desmond Chan of Los Angeles. The rough was selected for the unusual blue apatite crystal nearly reaching the surface. Laser ablation–inductively coupled plasma–mass spectrometry (LA-ICP-MS) chemical analysis indicated the rough to be a pyrope-spessartine variety. When orienting the stone in preparation for faceting, the author wanted the apatite inclusion to be the main focus of the gemstone. After slow and careful execution, a cut-cornered mixed-cut faceted gem was achieved, with the apatite eye-visible just under the table facet (figure 1). Oblique fiber-optic illumination was used to observe the world inside the gemstone, revealing a scene consisting of the blue euhedral apatite crystal paired with numerous iridescent intersecting needles of rutile (figure 2). This is one of the most unusual inclusions the author has seen in a garnet, and it is also notable as the gem was faceted to showcase the inclusion rather than hide or remove it.

Figure 2. A blue apatite crystal associated with intersecting iridescent needles was showcased. Photomicrograph by Jessa Rizzo; field of view 2.90 mm. @chapter:13


Publication Year: - Title: Frozen Splendor: Gems and Minerals Near the Arctic Region Abstract: This stunning trove of colorful gems is found in remote areas near the arctic region. Glacier photo by Brendan Laurs/GIA. Photo illustration by Robert Weldon/GIA

	The glaciated peaks of the Arctic region set the stage for our gemstone quest − in an area that occupies less than 8 percent of Earth’s surface (from Greenland to Northern Europe, Russia and Canada) − to find these rarefied gems.

	Learn about gems from polar regions as we travel east from Greenland through Norway, Finland, Russia and Canada.

	We start our journey in Greenland, probably not on your list when thinking of colored gemstones, though hot red rubies have been found there. Most of Greenland’s gemstones have been found in a region that stretches 160 kilometers (km) (100 miles) along its southwest shores. The area first came to the attention of European scientists more than 200 years ago when they arrived to study the country’s geology. Native Greenlandic Inuit were already familiar with ruby, but tugtupite, another red gemstone, was discovered in 1957 at Tugtup Agtakôrfia on the north coast of Tunugdliarfik Fjord, South Greenland. Limited quantities of this rare gem make tugtupite a collector’s item. Sapphire, lapis lazuli, amazonite, peridot, quartz, spinel, topaz and tourmaline have also been found in Greenland, though not in commercial quantities or qualities.

Tugtupite, a collector’s stone from Greenland, is named after the location it was found, Tugtupit agtakôrfia. Tugtup means reindeer in Inuit. Courtesy of Ice Cold Gems, William Rohtert. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA

	Traveling east about 3,200 km (2,000 miles) from Nuuk, the capital of Greenland, we come to the Kongsberg mines in southern Norway, where silver was discovered in the early 1600s in Buskerud County. The mines remained active for more than 330 years. They closed in 1958, but specimens from that locality are considered collector minerals. Today the town of Kongsberg houses the Norwegian Mining Museum, a collection of silver, tools and machinery used by miners, engineers and doctors. Emerald was mined from 1899 to 1909, and significant quantities of green beryl were mined in Byrud, Norway, in the late 19th and early 20th centuries at a working farm. Some of the material was transparent enough for faceting and today, the farm’s owner allows collecting on the mine area for a small fee.

Spectrolite, from Finland, is known for its broad flashes of strong color. Courtesy of True North Gems, Vancouver, B.C. Photo by Robert Weldon/GIA

	In Finland, 1,400 km (870 miles) east of Norway, we find exceptional labradorite (known in the trade as spectrolite), in a small area of the southeastern region. Spectrolite’s strong, broad flashes of color are reminiscent of the colorful and dramatic Aurora Borealis, which can be seen for more than six months of the year in Finland. Finland is the classic source for labradorite, however, the gem was named for Labrador, Canada where it was first discovered.

	Proceeding in an easterly direction, we pause in the Ural Mountains of Russia, a rich source of colored gemstones long accessed by Russian nobility for use in its imperial jewelry designs. Here we find a large variety of gems: emeralds, amethyst, aquamarine, demantoid garnets, jadeite, yellow beryl, malachite, jasper and alexandrite. Russia is the classic source for alexandrite, which was named for Czar Alexander II of Russia.

View Gallery

	The next destination takes us to Yakutia, in the frozen tundra of Siberia, 20 km (12 miles) south of the Arctic Circle. This is the land of polar nights where the sun never shines for days in winter. Mir Mine, the world’s largest known open pit diamond mine, was discovered in 1955 by Soviet geologists. It sits at the site of a volcanic pipe that contained trillions of carats of diamonds. The Mir Mine, worked sporadically until 2011, is closed. In its heyday in the 1960s, millions of carats of gem quality diamonds were produced annually. In 1980, a 342.57 carat fancy lemon yellow diamond was found in the Mir Mine. It now resides in the Russian Diamond Fund, Moscow Kremlin.

	Canada is the final destination in our odyssey for polar gems. The geological conditions in British Columbia are similar to the conditions in Myanmar and China, the top two producers of jadeite. An 18-ton nephrite boulder, Polar Pride, was discovered at the Polar Jade Mine in British Columbia. Half of the Polar Pride boulder was carved into the famous 4.65-ton Jade Buddha for Universal Peace in Thailand over a two-year period. It is approximately 2.5 meters (about 8 feet) tall − the largest Buddha ever carved from gem-quality nephrite. The jade Buddha has been on a tour of more than 15 countries since 2009 to inspire people to seek peace in their lives.

This collector specimen from Calgary, Alberta, Canada is an extinct fossilized ammonite shell in matrix. Similar rough would be fashioned into cabochons for jewelry and sold as ammolite. Gift of Korite International. Photo by Kevin Schumacher

	Southern Alberta is a source of ammonite, a fossilized extinct group of marine animals related to modern day cephalopods, such as the squid, octopus and nautilus. They lived 200–65 million years ago, becoming extinct along with the dinosaurs. Most ammonite fossil shells are treated with a colorless hardened substance to increase stability. Some shells show very strong iridescence when polished. They are fashioned into jewelry and known as “Ammolite” in the trade.

	The eastern regions in Canada’s Northwest Territories near the Arctic Circle share a climate similar to the Mir Mine in Siberia, Russia. The relatively new Ekati and Diavik diamond mines, located 300 km (186 miles) from Yellowknife in the Lac de Gras region, are renowned for producing premium quality diamonds that are often marketed as “conflict-free” diamonds. Canada also produces an array of colored gemstones and crystal specimens.

	Our journey through the polar regions of northern continents reveals a richness of gems and minerals that are sure to warm your soul. @chapter:1


Publication Year: - Title: Tanzanite Care and Cleaning Guide Abstract: With proper care to avoid hard blows, tanzanite can be worn in all styles of jewelry. - Courtesy Tanzanite Foundation ™

Hardness and toughness
Gem and mineral hardness is measured on the Mohs scale. The numbers are based on the relative ease or difficulty with which one mineral can be scratched by another. But the Mohs scale is deceptive. The steps between the minerals are not evenly spaced. For example, diamond is only one number away, but it’s many times harder than gems in the corundum family.

	Tanzanite ranks 6 to 7 on the Mohs scale.
Zoisite (tanzanite) is 6 to 7 on the Mohs scale. It has fair to poor toughness and a property called cleavage, which is a tendency to break when struck. While tanzanite is not as hard or as tough as a stone like sapphire, it still can be worn in all types of jewelry with proper precautions against rough wearing or hard blows.

Stability
Tanzanite is stable under normal wearing conditions, which means it’s resistant to the effects of heat, light, and common chemicals. Even so, tanzanite should not be subjected to very high temperatures or sudden temperature changes. It can be attacked by exposure to hydrochloric and hydrofluoric acids.

Cleaning
Warm, soapy water is always safe. Ultrasonic and steam cleaners are never recommended for tanzanite

Treatment and durability considerations
Tanzanite is routinely heat-treated to modify its color from a predominately brownish appearance to a predominately blue to purple appearance. The treatment is stable with no additional durability concerns.

There have been instances where tanzanite was coated to modify the color. Although rarely done, the coatings are not permanent and can be scratched or damaged through normal wear.

Like other transparent gemstones, tanzanite can be fracture filled to improve apparent clarity, although this is an uncommon tanzanite treatment method. The materials used to fill fractures in gemstones can alter in appearance over time. @chapter:2


Publication Year: 2008 Title: Winter 2008 Gem News International Abstract: Colored Stones and Organic Materials
	            Visit to Andesine Mines in Tibet and Inner Mongolia
	            Gemological Properties of Andesine Collected in Tibet and Inner Mongolia
	            New Find of Vivid Kunzite from Pala, California
	            Natural Pearls of the Veneridae Family
Synthetics and Simulants
	            Synthetic Citrine with Abundant Nail-Head Spicules
	            Radiocarbon Dating of “Neptunian” Beads from Asia Proves Modern Origin
	            Purplish Blue Synthetic Quartz
Treatments
	            Dyed Chalcedony Resembling Chrysocolla
Miscellaneous
	            Update on U.S.-Myanmar Import Restrictions
Announcements
	            Starting with this issue, the conference and exhibit calendars will only appear online.

To view the full section, download the PDF above.

	DATA DEPOSITORY

Visit to Andesine Mines in Tibet and Inner Mongolia - Supplementary Photos
	Submitted by A. Abduriyim
	Winter, 2008

Gemological Properties of Andesine Collected in Tibet and Inner Mongolia - Supplementary Photos
	Submitted by A. Abduriyim and T. Kobayashi
	Winter, 2008 @chapter:3


Publication Year: 2003 Title: An Investigation into the Cause of Color in Natural Black Diamonds from Siberia Abstract: Black and dark gray diamonds from Siberia, Russia, were studied by analytical scanning and transmission electron microscopy. Their color is caused by the presence of dark inclusions. Unlike some previous reports on black diamonds in which the dark inclusions were primarily graphite, the Siberian samples with the most intense black color contained predominantly magnetite inclusions, while the dark gray diamonds most commonly contained inclusions of hematite and native iron. Moreover, the black diamonds studied exhibited anomalously high magnetic susceptibility, which may serve as one criterion for determining the natural origin of black color. @chapter:35


Publication Year: 2010 Title: X-ray Computed Microtomography Applied to Pearls: Methodology, Advantages, and Limitations Abstract: X-ray computed microtomography reveals the internal features of pearls with great detail. This method is useful for identifying some of the natural or cultured pearls that are difficult to separate using traditional X-radiography. The long measurement time, the cost of the instrumentation, and the fact only one pearl at a time can be imaged are some of this method’s disadvantages.

	DATA DEPOSITORY

	Supplementary Videos and Images (see below)
	Summer, 2010

Depository Item 1

	Figures 1a, 1b, 1c3D model of Beaded Saltwater Cultured Pearl

	Videos showing slices taken in three directions through the 3D model of the beaded saltwater cultured pearl in figure 4 (sample GGL19). All sections show reconstruction artifacts due to rotation: fine circles in the horizontal section (a) and a blurry rotation axis in perpendicular sections (b and c).

Depository Item 2

	Figures 2a-2f3D model of Non-beaded Saltwater Cultured Pearl

	Videos showing slices taken in three directions of the 3D model (with and without shadows) of the non-beaded saltwater cultured pearl in figure 5 (sample SK-51). In the videos b, d, and f, structures produced by the grafted tissue have an inverted color; that is, these structures appear dark in the original videos (a, c, and e) instead of bright. All sections show reconstruction artifacts due to rotation.

Depository Item 3

	Figures 3a-3c3D model of Freshwater Natural Pearl

	Videos showing slices in three directions of the 3D model of the freshwater natural pearl in figure 6 (sample GGL03). All sections show reconstruction artifacts due to rotation.

Depository Item 4

	Figures 4a-4c3D Model of Saltwater Natural Pearl

	Videos showing slices in three directions of the 3D model of the saltwater natural pearl (sample SK-46) presented in the figure 7. All sections show reconstruction artifacts due to rotation.

Depository Item 5

	In this (a) gray-black half-drilled, drop-shaped, non-beaded freshwater cultured pearl
	from Hyriopsis spp. (sample SK-54), a characteristic comma-shaped structure caused
	by the grafted tissue was only visible in one direction in the radiographs (b). Tissue-related
	structures (i.e., undulating growth lines) are clearly visible only in the μ-CT images (c, d).

	Figures 5e-5j3D Model of Non-beaded Freshwater Cultured Pearl

	The videos show slices in three directions of the 3D model of this sample. In the videos b, d, and f, the tissue-related structures are shown with inverted colors (they appear bright). All sections show reconstruction artifacts due to rotation.

Depository Item 6

	In this near-round, non-beaded freshwater cultured pearl (a) from Hyriopsis spp.
	(sample GGL26), a mixture of structures representative of a cultured pearl are observed
	in the radiograph (b). The μ-CT images (c, d) suggest that these structures are related
	to more than one piece of grafted tissue.

	Figures 6e-6j3D Model of Non-beaded Freshwater Cultured Pearl

	This is more evident in two of the videos (f and j), where the tissue-related structures are shown with inverted colors (they appear bright). Photo by A. Spingardi. All sections show reconstruction artifacts due to rotation.

Depository Item 7

	These 3D μ-CT images of a half-drilled, drop-shaped, saltwater natural pearl from Pteria spp. (sample SK-61) show the pearl mounted (left) and unmounted (right). The metal produces artifacts that partially mask the internal features; the structures indicative of a natural origin are much more visible in the unmounted pearl. @chapter:14


Publication Year: 2015 Title: Three Unique Large Natural Pearls from Haliotis (Abalone) Species Abstract: Figure 1. Three unique abalone pearls are shown alongside a typical 12 mm golden South Sea bead-cultured pearl for comparison. Photo by Sood Oil (Judy) Chia.

Natural abalone pearls are produced by many species of the Haliotis genus, which are ear-shaped saltwater univalve gastropods. They may form in many different sizes and shapes, though they are commonly encountered in baroque shapes, often taking the form of elongated “horns” and “teeth.” The pearls are also notable for their high luster and attractive multicolored appearance, which is usually dominated by blue, green, or yellowish green bodycolors. GIA has reported on many Haliotis pearls in previous Lab Notes over the years (Fall 1984, p. 169; Spring 1996, pp. 47–49; Fall 2004, pp. 259–260; Spring 1993, p. 51).

Three large and unique abalone pearls from a client’s collection were recently submitted to the New York laboratory (figure 1). Each piece was remarkable in its own right. A button-shaped pearl, measuring approximately 26 × 24 mm with impressive vivid “peacock” blue and green hues, was set in a yellow metal brooch. The second piece, seen in figure 1 on the far right, was a loose abalone pearl weighing 66.83 ct and measuring approximately 42 × 26 × 19 mm with a striking resemblance to a fish’s head. The eye, mouth, and gill features were clearly outlined in the specimen, which possessed a smooth surface and subtle array of iridescent greenish yellow colors. The third piece, weighing 113.58 ct and measuring approximately 62 × 29 × 16 mm, was also loose and resembled the head of a snake. It exhibited strong iridescence with mottled patches of various colors similar to the pattern observed on the scaly skin of snakes.

Figure 2. All three specimens from figure 1 showed concentric and void-related internal structures typical of abalone pearls. Images by Surjit Dillon Wong.
Microradiography revealed characteristic Haliotis-related voids with concentric growth structures in all three pearls (figure 2). Two of the pearls also revealed an iodine-rich composition, which GIA has noted is a fairly consistent property of abalone pearls. Such internal structures, along with their distinctive multicolored orient, bubble-like (botryoidal) subsurface structure (figure 3), interesting chemical composition, and chalky greenish yellow fluorescence under long-wave UV are all characteristic of abalone pearls.

Figure 3. This photomicrograph shows the patches of color and botryoidal-like subsurface
structure characteristic of abalone pearls. Photomicrograph by Joyce Wing Yan Ho;
field of view 3.9 mm.
The various shapes are determined by where the pearls are formed within the body of the mollusk, and often mirror the form of the gonad (E. Strack, Pearls, Ruhle-Diebener-Verlag GmbH & Co. KG, Stuttgart, 2006). Examining all three specimens at the same time allowed us to see a range of colors and shapes possible in abalone pearls. We look forward to encountering more of these unusual pearls. @chapter:14


Publication Year: 2022 Title: Blue Apatite in Tanzanian Garnet Abstract: Blue apatite crystals are beautifully framed by prominent rutile needles in a garnet from Tanzania. Photomicrograph by E. Billie Hughes; field of view 3.5 mm.
In the micro-world, it can be challenging to identify inclusions based on sight alone, as many minerals can have a similar appearance. Occasionally, though, some inclusions have characteristic features that can aid in their identification.
Recently this author had the opportunity to observe a pyrope-spessartine garnet, reportedly from Lindi Province, Tanzania, that contained blue crystal inclusions ensconced among intersecting needles (see above). Analysis with micro-Raman spectroscopy identified the inclusions as apatite. Apatites are known for their bright blue hues, and these inclusions offered an attractive example.
While this sample hails from Tanzania, blue apatite has previously been reported as an inclusion in garnet from Madagascar (Winter 2020 G&G Micro-World, p. 526). These inclusions’ distinctive appearance may help gemologists recognize the material in other samples, but further analysis should be performed to identify them definitively. @chapter:5


Publication Year: 2019 Title: Iolite-Sunstone Intergrowth and Inclusions Abstract: Figure 1. An iolite-sunstone overgrowth crystal specimen. Photo by Kevin Schumacher.

At the GIA Carlsbad laboratory, the authors recently examined a cabochon of “bloodshot” iolite (containing red, eye-visible platelets of hematite) intergrown with a sunstone (figure 1). This material was reportedly sourced from India. Cordierite (iolite) and plagioclase feldspar is a common metamorphic mineral assemblage, and similar material reportedly from India has been documented in the past (Winter 1991 Gem News, pp. 261–262).
This “double” gem specimen displays a mixture of an attractive bluish violet dichroic color with red hematite platelet inclusions in the iolite half, combined with an orange aventurescence effect from numerous tiny copper-colored hematite platelets in the sunstone half.

Figure 2. This colorful inclusion scene showcases an anthophyllite crystal inclusion, which exhibits high transparency, several cleavage planes, and a thin/bladed prismatic crystal form. Photomicrograph by Jonathan Muyal; field of view 2.34 mm.
Viewing the stone under magnification offers an inclusion scene with a variety of well-formed hematite platelets, crystals, and liquid inclusions. Of particular interest was a fine elongated single-crystal inclusion of anthophyllite (figure 2).
The crystal shape of the anthophyllite could easily be mistaken for phlogopite, which has been documented in cordierite (E.J. Gübelin and J.I. Koivula, Photoatlas of Inclusions in Gems, Vol. 1, ABC Edition, Zurich, 1986, p. 268). In fact, several greenish brown prismatic phlogopite crystal inclusions were also observed inside the same specimen. Nevertheless, the anthophyllite crystal was conclusively identified by Raman microspectrometry analysis. The anthophyllite crystal inclusion showed a bladed prismatic crystal form, orangy yellow color, transparency, and several cleavage planes.
Although amphibole mineral inclusions have been documented extensively, distinct prismatic anthophyllite crystal inclusions are very rare and few references are found in the literature. Anthophyllite is more common in lamellar or fibrous form, classified as asbestos.
This combination iolite-sunstone specimen and its inclusions offer a unique visual composition that makes it a desirable piece for a gem collection @chapter:13